Dyeing Polyamide

Daniel Chan
14 March 2017
 Content
• Polyamide fibers and their dyeing properties
• Polyamide dyeing concept for all requirements
− TECTILON: for pale shades with highest lightfastness
− LANACRON N: for pale shades with high washing fastness
− ERIONYL A: a wide range of compatible and fast acid dyes
− ERIONYL FF: Fluorescent products which show state-
of-the-art fastness
− LANASET / LANASET PA: the Huntsman specialty for
highest build-up and fastness
• ERIOFAST: innovation for highest requirements
− ERIOFAST Modified process
− ERIOFAST Red WF
− Reproducibility of ERIOFAST dyeing

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 Polyamide Fiber

Polyamide construction

carbon chain (CH2)n carbon chain (CH2)m

H O O
H N C N C OH
H chain length
amino group amide group carboxyl group

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PA 6 versus PA 66
PA 6 PA 66
• Less crystallinity • Higher crystallinity:
− Dye uptake faster − Dye uptake slower
− Slightly lower wet fastness − Higher wet fastness
• Lower tensile strength • Higher tensile strength
• Melting point 210°C • Melting point 250°C
• Heat setting max. 190°C • Heat setting up to 220°C
• Max. dyeing temp. 108°C • Max. Dyeing temp. 120°C
• More economic • Stronger tendency for
• Mainly for apparel barré dyeing
• Major use for carpet and
technical textile

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PA6 vs PA66 - important for the dyer?
• The physical parameters of the fibers are much more
important than the chemistry of production
• Key points are
− Fiber fineness
− Heat setting conditions before dyeing
− Cristallinity of the fiber
• Above parameters have much more influence on the
dyeing result than the fact of PA6 or PA66
• Important for the dyer (particularly during first Lab
evaluation of a new fabric):
− Watch speed of exhaustion
− Check residual dye in the liquor after dyeing
− Use a good leveling agent
− Use a pH slider (not recommended for jig dyeing)
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 Specification of PA yarns

70 den f26 70 den f34

70 den f68 70 den f144

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 Influence on shade depth
If the same depth of shade should be achieved:

100
dye requirement

80
60
Dull
40
Semi dull
20
Bright
0
fine -> coarse

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 Washing 60 C ISO 105-C06 C2S
4 % ERIONYL Red A-3BN
Before After
washing washing

Type A

Type B

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 Influence on fastness of acid dyes
pale pink shade dyed with acid dyes on
PA type A PA type B

After 5 times
Washing at 40°C

After 10 times
Washing at 40°C

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 Prescouring

Why is it done?

• To remove spinning oils and impurities

• To wash off lubricants and antistats
• To remove sighting colors
• To eliminate tension differences resulting from spinning
and twisting

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 Prescouring

• To remove spinning oils and impurities

• To wash off lubricants and antistats
• To remove sighting colors
• To eliminate tension differences resulting from spinning and twisting

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 Setting

What is improved / prevented?

• lower risk of creases caused by shrinkage

• the in-use shrinkage can be controlled
• defines final width
• the fabric appearance is changed, equalized and set
• the levelness is improved
− fabric becomes more regular during setting
− the dye pick-up is slowed down
• less moiré effect in beam dyeing

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 Pre-setting PA/EL fabrics
darker 60
Lightness value

55
Increased crystallinity

50

45
Loss of amine end groups

paler 40
Scour 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 190 200 °C
only

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STABILON NY – protects in pre-setting

• Application by padding before heat setting

• Avoids fiber degradation during heat setting.

• Reduces significantly yellowing during pre-setting

• Preserves dyeability – protects amino groups

• Improves levelness in dyeing – temperature differences

during heat setting show less serious effects

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 STABILON® NY influences
dyeability
150°C heat setting temperature 210°C

Pre-set without STABILON® NY

Pre-set with STABILON® NY

final shade on the same material, just pre-set under different conditions
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 Dyes After-
treatment
De-
aerators
Rinsing
Dyeing
Parameters
Levelling
agents Time

End-
pH
temperature
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 Time

Dyeing Procedure
120°C/248°F
100°C/212°F

40°C/104°F
30 min
10 10 1-2°C/min 45-60 min
A B 1.8-3.6°F/min

A 0.5-2 g/l penetration accelerant

2-1 % leveling agent
pH 7-4 with buffer system

B x % dye
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 Deaerating Power

water wetting agent Penetration accelerant

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 Differentiation

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 End groups and influence of pH
H O O
H N C N C OH
H chain length
amino group amide group carboxyl group

- - - -
NH2 COO COO NH3+ COO COO NH3+ COOH COOH

polyamide fibre polyamide fibre polyamide fibre

pH > 10 pH 3.5 - 10 pH < 3.5

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 Compatibility of dyes
- influence on barriness

The first and fast step in dyeing

is the adsorption of the dyes on
the fiber surface.

The next (and much slower) step

in dyeing is the diffusion of the
dyebath dye fiber
dyes into the fiber.
If the diffusion speed in a dye
combination varies, affinity
differences will be pronounced
(off-tone filaments)
= heavy barriness.

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 UNIVADINE® MC
Leveling Agent
 Tailor-made leveling agent for dyeing polyamide with
LANASET / LANASET PA and acid dyes.
 Outstanding covering of barriness and support of migration
 Improves surface levelness on all polyamide qualities
 Low retarding effect, therefore perfect reproducibility
 Prevents precipitation of metal-complex dyes

migration with
1 % UNIVADINE MC

migration
without
1 % UNIVADINE MC without

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 UNIVADINE® MC
Leveling Agent

Covering of barriness / leveling with LANASET® PA dyes

1%

without leveler

2%

UNIVADINE® MC

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 Compatibility of dyestuffs

0.670% Acid Yellow A-3GL

0.204% Acid Blue A-3GL
0.012% Acid Blue M-5G

0.680% LANASET Yellow 4GN

0.200% LANASET Blue 5G
0.019% ERIONYL Turq. A-G

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 UNIVADINE ER leveling agent for
PA

On-tone building up
50℃ 60℃ 70℃ 80℃ 90℃ 98℃ 98℃× 20min. 98℃ × 40min. 98℃×60min.

Without

1%
Competitor

1%
UNIVADINE ER

1:2 MC dyes

UNIVADINE ER the best on-tone dyeing and ideal retarding property

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ALBATEX PS-35 pH Slider

pH control with ALBATEX PS-35 during PA/WO dyeing

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 ALBATEX PS-35 pH slider
Strength performance vs. competition
pH neutralization point
2 g product after hydrolysis

pH

14

12

10

8
ALBATEX PS-35
6

0
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 27 28 29 31
ml NaOH 1N

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 ALBATEX PS-35 pH slider

pH stability after product storage

After 6 months a solution of 1 g/l product is measured!!

pH rating
7.00 5.0
ALBATEX PS-35 6.83 4.8
Slider VS liq 4.23 1.5
Slider FEA2C 3.76 1.0
Slider VAN liq 4.28 1.6
Slider EF 4.07 1.3
Slider PAS 6.30 4.1
Slider GAE 4.42 1.8
Slider GBK 4.10 1.4
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 Positioning of dye classes

disperse (Limited use in market)

dyes
leveling power
wet fastness

acid dyes
acid leveling pale - medium

fast acid medium - deep

1:2 metal
complex medium - very deep
dyes

Depth

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 TECTILON - Acid Levelling Dyes

• for pale to medium shades CIELab

b
Yellow 2G 200%
• high light fastness, including in colour space
Yellow 3R 200%
ultra pale shades
• high wet fastness in pale shades,
medium shades require after
treatment Red 2B 200%

• outstanding migration and -a a

leveling properties
Blue 6G 200%
• very good coverage of physical
affinity differences Blue 4R-01 200%
-b
• fully compatible (trichromatic
system)

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 Pale and medium shades

• Acid leveling dyes are ideal to cover affinity differences in

PA fabrics.
However they will show heavy shade change in multiple
washing.
• 1:2 metal complex dyes dyes offer highest fastness
properties, even in multiple washing.
However on certain PA fabrics they have limitations in
barré coverage.
• Selected LANACRON® N dyes offer solutions:
− They migrate during dyeing resulting in perfect
levelness
− In multiple washing no shade change will occur

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 Dye selection for pale and medium shades
barré coverage shade change in
1:2 metal-complex dyes multiple washing

 
4-5
acid leveling dyes

 
1
LANACRON® N dyes

 
4
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 Pastel shades – no shade change in
multiple washing
5 x washed at 49°C
AATCC 61 2A

4 4-5

0.020 % LANACRON® Yellow N-2GL KWL 0.010% LANACRON® Bordeaux N-ELN

0.005 % LANACRON® Red N-2GL KWL
0.005 % LANACRON® Grey N-GLN

4-5 4-5

0.010% LANACRON® Bordeaux N-ELN 0.002 % LANACRON® Yellow N-2GL KWL

0.010 % LANACRON® Red N-2GL KWL 0.020 % LANASET ® Blue 5G

4-5

0.002 % LANACRON® Bordeaux N-ELN

0.020 % LANACRON® Grey N-GLN

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Dye selection for pale and medium shades

Δ LANACRON Yellow N-2GL

Δ LANACRON Red N-2GL
LANACRON Bordeaux N-EL
Δ LANACRON Grey N-GLN
LANASET Blue 5G
These dyes ensure good coverage of barriness and excellent
fastness to multiple washing

98°C A: 0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW ® UNI-01

1.0-2.0 % UNIVADINE ® MC
0.25-1.0 g/l ALBATEX® PS-35
1°C/min
pH 5 – 6 (final pH)
rinse
B: x % LANACRON® N dyes
40°C

5 5 30
A B

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On tone dyeing of LANACRON N

0.095% Acid Yellow PHF

0.039% Acid Red PHF
0.39 % Acid Grey PHF

Better on
tone dyeing
with elastane

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 ERIONYL A - Fast Acid Dyes

• good build-up to deep shades b

CIELab Yellow A-3G
• medium to very good light fastness colour space
Yellow A-R
properties
• good wet fastness properties in
Red A-3G
medium shades, deep shades require
after treatment Red A-2BF
-a Black M-R a
• medium to good migration Black M-BN
Red A-3BN

• good coverage of barriness with a Blue A-4G Bordeaux A-5B

Navy A-R

leveling agent Turquoise

A-G
• compatible dyes for a wide range of -b Blue A-R

shades
• single dyes for brilliant fashion shades

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 ERIONYL® FF

• Polyamide fibers are dominant particularly within the

high value segment of functional elastic garments and
Huntsman Textile Effects offers for the attractive shade
segment of neons two fluorescent products which show
state-of-the-art fastness and quality levels.

• Neon shades for active wear are not anymore seasonal

gimmicks which come and go with fashion trends.
These shades represent today a significant part in the
collections of all brands and suppliers who are involved
in swimwear, beachwear, sportswear and even in
lingerie.

Event Name
PROMT_430101e_ERIONYL_FF Page37 Corporate
 Key benefits ERIONYL® FF
• The two most important neon dyes for polyamide and
blends with elastane

• Economic products with very high color strength

• Together with selected auxiliaries a tailor-made

concept for trouble free application

• State-of-the-art fastness level

• Orange / Red
ERIONYL Flavine FF
ERIONYL Rhodamine FF
• Pink / Violet
ERIONYL Rhodamine FF
LANASET Violet B
• Lemon / Green
ERIONYL Flavine FF
ERIONYL Turquoise A-G
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PROMT_430101e_ERIONYL_FF Page38 Corporate
 Hints for dyeing

• ERIONYL® FF are small molecular levelling dyes, which need a lower pH

than other acid dyes. Usually pH 3.2 to 3.5 is required
(with formic acid)

• Retarding agents, lubricants and strong leveling agents should be used in

small amounts only

• Good levelness is achieved by excellent migration during boiling, slow

heating and / or pH sliding have no influence on leveling.

• Ideal dyeing temperature is 98°C, optimum exhaustion is more dependent on

correct pH rather than temperature.

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 Dyeing process

98°C

1°C/min
60°C

40°C

10 10 30–60 10 10 min

A B
A: 0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW UNI-01
0 – 0.5 % UNIVADINE MC
~ 1.5 % formic acid 85%
pH 3.5
B: x % dyes

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 Special combination shades

• For certain shades the small molecular ERIONYL® FF dyes need to be

combined with large molecular dyes like ERIONYL® Turquoise A-G or
LANASET® Violet B. Such kind of combinations require very special
precautions.
• The specific leveling action of UNIVADINE® ER helps to overcome the
incompatibility of these combination elements.
• ALBATEX® PS-35 controls the pH development very smoothly during
heating and slides the pH slowly from neutral to acid to guarantee finally a
good exhaustion for high reproducibility.
• A dyeing temperature above the boil (105°C) supports the migration of the
large molecular elements and helps to cover barré effects.

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 ERIONAL® FRN

75°C
no influence on shade:

1°C/min

no fixing conventional
product

40°C
6% ERIONAL FRN

10 10 20 min

A B

A: 6 % ERIONAL® FRN
B: 2 % ALBATEX® AB-45

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 Clean machines for neons

• Very often faulty batches of neon shades are

caused by equipment which was not properly clean.
These type of shades are very sensitive to smallest
traces of residual dye in the machine, in the pipes or
color kitchen equipment.

• INVALON® FL equipment cleaning agent is a

versatile specialty for removing dye, pigment and
oligomer residues in and on dyeing equipment,
preparation tanks, material supports, pumps and
spray pipes.

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 INVALON® FL
Cleaning effect on metal plates soiled with dyes
INVALON® FL Competition

acid dyes
4 drops of cleaning product are
deposed on the stained metal
plates.
cationic dyes
5 min. later they are rinsed
with water.

disperse dyes

metal-complex dyes

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LANASET® & LANASET® PA
LANASET® LANASET® PA
 Developed 30 years ago • Trichromy and 3 additional
 Tailor-made for wool dyeing dyes introduced 10 years ago,
 Dyeing at pH 4.5 (iso-electric) limited shade coverage
to preserve wool quality  Tailor-made for polyamide,
 No tippy dyeing on wool fiber more economic than classic
LANASET®
 Wider shade range compared
to classic metal-complex dyes  LANASET® PA trichromy
covers barriness better than
 Most succesful dye range in classic LANASET® trichromy
the history of wool dyeing
 Excellent build up on
 Also used for polyamide microfiber
dyeing
 Now range extension with
 Complicated expensive mixes brilliant elements and global
launch of LANASET® PA

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 兰纳洒脱(LANASET) PA 的选择

LANASET LANASET LANASET LANASET LANASET LANASET

Yellow PA 125% Yellow PA-2G Red PA 200 % Blue PA Navy PA Blue PA-2R 115%

b
Yellow 4GN
LANASET LANASET LANASET LANASET LANASET
Yellow PA-4G Orange PA-2R Red PA-3G Red PA-4B Black PA-R
CIELab Yellow 2R
colour
space
Orange RN

Red
Red2B
Brown G-01 G
Brown
- B a
a Black
Green B Bordeaux
B
Grey B
G
Blue Navy
5G R

Violet
B
- Blue
b 2R
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Lightfastness essential for outdoor garments
ISO 105-B02 96/216 h (rated by blue scale)

LANASET® PA Others

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Outdoor Garments Wet Fastness

 It’s common practice to laminate fabrics for outdoor

garments to achieve environmental resistance (wind / rain /
waterproof).
 A good bond of the lamination is important to prevent
delamination and is critical in developing proper seam
strengths.
 Syntan fixing agents make the fiber surface hydrophobic
and interfere proper lamination.

LANASET® PA offer good washing fastness

without additional syntan. Fabrics fulfill
the requirements for lamination

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Washing Fastness (Without Fix)
AATCC 61 2A 49°C

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 Additional benefit:
Fastness to chlorinated water

• Many of the LANASET® PA show already excellent

fastness to chlorinated water
without additional chlorine fastness improver
• The benefits:
− No additional costs for fixing
− No risk of shade change due to self shade of fixing agents
− No risk of tannin migration (causing brown stripes and spots)

− No reduction of chlorine fastness in washing

(tannins are washed out)

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 Fastness to chlorinated water
Without Additional Fastness Improver

LANASET® PA Others

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Color Blocking - Dream of Designers

Boundary of Yellow&Green ，
Separated between Black & white
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 Polyamide microfibers
• Typical segment lingerie, swimwear,
sportswear
• Fabrics with fine polyamide/high amount of elastane
(>20%) to achieve luxurious feel
• Full-dull polyamide types are preferred for
„natural“ look and character
• Deep and intensive shades need high amounts of dye, in many cases
problems to achieve required depth
• Severe fastness limitations even at 40C washing temperature

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 Limitations of „highfast“ acid dyes
Deep shades on PA micro/EL 72:28 Washing 60C
WO PAN PES PA CO CA

ERIONYL® Red A-3G

Fast Acid Red F-GS

Fast Acid Red S-B

ERIONYL® Orange B-GRLS

LANASET® Blue 2R

Fast Acid Blue S-R

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ERIOFAST® micro – innovation for PA
micro
98°C
9 0 °C
1°C/min
rinse rinse rinse
neutralize
75°C
1°C/min

40°C

5 5 20 15 40 20 20 min.
A B C D E
A: 0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW FFA-01 or JET D: ~ 0.4 ml/l caustic soda 36°Bé
4.0 % acetic acid y % ERIOFAST FIX
pH 4.0 pH 11.0
B: x % ERIOFAST dyes
E: 1 g/l soda ash
C: 10 % CaCl2

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 Initial exhaustion of ERIOFAST®
dyes
increasing temperature
Cationic charge on the fibre
initiates reaction
Acid ERIOFAST
attracts dyes
Color
Color
H+
H+ —COOH
COO
+HH2N— H+
NH
3
N—

H+ —COOH
COO
H+ H+

+H N—
N— —COOH
COO
NH
23

H+
H+
Color
Color

—COOH
COO
+H
H2N—
N—3 H+
—COOH
COO
H+

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 Further build up: the function of
CaCl2
Build-up limitations

COO
Ca
Ca
COO
Ca
NH
COO
Ca

Ca COO
Ca
COO
CaCl2 increases
the substantivity of NH
ERIOFAST dyes
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 ERIOFAST® micro – perfect build-up
PA micro/EL 72:28

ERIOFAST ERIOFAST ERIOFAST

2.10 % Red B 1.30 % Orange 4R 0.80 % Red 2B
0.02 % Red 2B 1.20 % Red B 2.20 % Blue 3R

Standard

ERIOFAST micro

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 ERIOFAST® micro – perfect build-up
PA micro/EL 72:28
ERIOFAST ERIOFAST
1.05 % Yellow R 0.70 % Yellow R
3.30 % Red 2B 4.30 % Red 2B
0.05 % Blue 3R 1.45 % Blue 3R

Standard

ERIOFAST micro

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 ERIOFAST® micro – exhaustion behavior

Addition of CaCl2

100C 100C 100C

90 min 110 min 130 min
90C
80C 80 min
75C 75C 70 min
60C 45 min 65 min
50C 30 min
40C 20 min
10 min

CaCl2 increases substantivity

for good build-up

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 High substantivity = risk for
unlevelness?

98°C
90°C
1°C/min
rinse rinse rinse
neutralize
75°C

1°C/min Migration test 1

after dyeing

40°C

5 5 20 15 40 20 20 min.

A B C D E
Addition
of CaCl2
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 Migration test 1 after dyeing
Migration test 40 min. 98 in a “blind” bath containing:
0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW FFA-01
x ml/l acetic acid
10.0 % CaCl2 (calcium chloride)
pH 4.0

100 % migration
before =
migration test perfect
levelness
no barriness

after
migration test

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 And why do we get high
fastness?

98°C
90°C
1°C/min
rinse rinse rinse
neutralize
75°C

1°C/min Migration test 1

beforeERIOFAST FIX

40°C Migration test 2

after ERIOFAST FIX
5 5 20 15 40 20 20 min

A B C D E

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 Migration test 2 after ERIOFAST® FIX
Migration test 40 min. 98 in a “blind” bath containing:
0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW FFA-01
x ml/l acetic acid
10.0 % CaCl2 (calcium chloride)
pH 4.0

no migration
before =
migration test highest wet
fastness

after
migration test

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 ERIOFAST® FIX linking agent
ERIOFAST FIX
ERIOFAST
FIX = NaOH
chemical
linkage COO
NH

COO

NH
COO
NaOH
=
removal
of Ca2+ NH COO

COO
NH

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 ERIOFAST® FIX – linking agent

• Special system product for ERIOFAST dyes applied by the ERIOFAST micro
dyeing process.

• ERIOFAST FIX is an integral part of the ERIOFAST micro dyeing system, the
product cannot be used with any other polyamide dyes.

• The required amount of ERIOFAST FIX is proportional to the quantity of

ERIOFAST dyes used. Simply half of the amount of dyes is needed,
calculated as follows:

Calculation of required amount of ERIOFAST FIX:

% ERIOFAST dyes x 0,5 = % ERIOFAST FIX

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 Why less ERIOFAST FIX with Black ?
Chemical reaction
10 g ERIOFAST Red + 5 g ERIOFAST FIX

ERIOFAST ERIOFAST ERIOFAST

ERIOFAST Redmacromolecule
FIX
ERIOFAST Red
FIX ERIOFAST Red
ERIOFAST Red
FIX
ERIOFAST Red

10 g ERIOFAST Black + 2 g ERIOFAST FIX

ERIOFAST
macromolecule
ERIOFAST Black M
FIX ERIOFAST Black
ERIOFAST Black M

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 ERIOFAST® micro – high fastness
Washing 60C ISO 105C06 C2S
ERIOFAST ERIOFAST ERIOFAST ERIOFAST ERIOFAST
2.10 % Red B 1.30 % Orange 4R 0.80 % Red 2B 1.05 % Yellow R 0.70 % Yellow R
0.02 % Red 2B 1.20 % Red B 2.20 % Blue 3R 3.30 % Red 2B 4.30 % Red 2B
0.05 % Blue 3R 1.45 % Blue 3R

WO

PAN

PES

PA

CO

CA

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 Molding - influence on fastness

The fixation effect of anionic and cationic fixing

agents is significantly reduced by molding
due to:
• Contact heat under stretched conditions
• High temperature
• Long time

Molding machine for bra cups

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 Molding – influence on fastness
5.0% C.I. Acid Black 172 6.0% ERIOFAST Black M
washed with ERIOPON OS dyed by ERIOFAST micro process
anionic fixed with 3% conv. syntan incl. ERIOFAST FIX aftertreatment
cationic fixed with 3% cat. fixative
before after molding before after molding
(90 sec. 190°C) (90 sec. 190°C)

WO 5 5 5 5

PAN 5 5 5 5

PES 5 5 5 5

PA 3 2 4-5 4-5

CO 4-5 4 5 5

CA 5 5 5 5

Washtest 60°C ISO 105-C06 C2S

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 Additional benefit – Moisture
management

• ERIOFAST dyes don‘t bleed because of chemical linkage

to the fiber.
• No hydrophobic syntan is needed on the fabric surface.
• The fabric remains hydrophilic and with its excellent
wicking action body moisture is carried away.
• The garment on the body is always dry and comfortable.
• As a side effect static „cling“ is significantly reduced.

Event Name Page71 Corporate

 Moisture Management

The current process....

 The chemical layers close the surface of the fiber
 The fiber becomes hydrophobic and can no longer
absorb moisture
 Moisture management finishing agents are not effective Water drop
with conventional black dyes due to the polymer cover Remains after
30 seconds
on the fibre surface hindering effective application.

With the New State of the Art....

 Excellent moisture absorbtion
 No limitation for the application of moisture
Water drop
management products absorbed after
5 seconds

Event Name Page72 Corporate

 Background

• The dyeing method “ERIOFAST micro” was developed to overcome

the build-up and fastness limitations of PA microfibers
• This innovative dyeing method with CaCl2 and ERIOFAST FIX was
then the begin of the success story.
• The speedy market introduction didn’t leave enough time to
evaluate further improvements and benefits.

There are opportunities to review the ERIOFAST micro

method and improve the concept:
• to enhance the technical performance
• to improve processing time and energy consumption

Event Name Page73 Corporate

 Issues and obstacles with ERIOFAST

• Deep royal blue shades with ERIOFAST Blue 3R don’t

build up very well and show occassionaly spots
• Long process time due to the need for slow cooling
− Bath cannot be dropped above 60°C because crease
marks will be created
− ERIOFAST needs 3 times cooling:
98°C → 60°C dyebath
90°C → 60°C fix bath
90°C → 60°C wash bath
• High energy consumption because of 3 hot baths
• Fastness limitations with ERIOFAST Reds (mainly
ERIOFAST Red 2B and Orange 4R)
− heavy staining on CO in the multifiber strip
Event Name Page74 Corporate
 ERIOFAST Blue 3R how to avoid spots

Background
• Customers have encountered spot problems when dyeing
deep royal blue shades with ERIOFAST Blue 3R
• Repeated industrial trials with ERIOFAST Blue 3R have
shown
− a higher pH of 5.5 in the dyebath solves this problem
− Shade depth and fastness level is the same compared to
the standard of pH 4.

These findings lead to the question:

Can we use pH 5.5 in the dyebath for all ERIOFAST
dyes with the same results than standard (pH 4)?

Event Name Page75 Corporate

 Dyebath pH 5.5 compared to pH 4.0
final shade compared to standard (pH 4)
ERIOFAST relative depth shade deviation dE
4.0 % Yellow 5G 101 % 1.00
2.0 % Yellow R 99 % 0.35
4.0 % Orange 4R 100 % 0.04
6.8 % Red B 98 % 0.13
4.4 % Red 2B 99 % 0.44
6.0 % Blue 3R 100 % 0.06
7.0 % Blue 3G 101 % 0.57
4.0 % Navy M 97 % 0.36
8.0 % Black M 98 % 0.20

Conclusion:
pH 5.5 has no influence on the final shade
Event Name Page76 Corporate
 Long process time

• Particularly on jet machines the ERIOFAST dyeing method

consumes a lot of time.
• The reason behind is the sensitivity to crease markes
when dyeing PA/EL in rope form.
• Crease marks can only be avoided by cooling each hot
bath to 60°C, before drainage.
• ERIOFAST needs 3 times cooling:
dyebath 98°C → 60°C
ERIOFAST FIX treatment 90°C → 60°C
wash bath with soda 90°C → 60°C

Is it possible to reduce the temperature of the aftertreatment?

Event Name Page77 Corporate

 Aftertreatment at 60°C (instead of 90°C)
98°C
9 0 °C
1°C/min
cold rinse

75°C
60°C
1°C/min rinse
neutralize
40°C

5 5 20 15 40 20 20 min.
A B C D E
A: 0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW CIR or JET D: 0.5-1 ml/l caustic soda 36°Bé
2.0 g/l ALBATEX AB-55* y % ERIOFAST FIX
pH 5.5 pH 11.0
B: x % ERIOFAST dyes
E: 1 g/l soda ash
C: 10 % CaCl2 (2 % for Black M) 2 g/l ERIOPON E3-WOC
*alternative: 2 g/l Na acetate and 1% acetic acid
Event Name Page78 Corporate
 ERIOFAST Blue 3R better build up
6.0 % ERIOFAST Blue 3R
dyed on PA/EL customer material

after dyeing (before fix and wash) relative depth: 114%

90°C ERIOFAST FIX treatment
relative depth: 100%
90°C washing with soda ash
60°C ERIOFAST FIX treatment
relative depth: 107%
60°C washing with soda ash

no change of fastness properties !

ERIOFAST Blue 3R:

aftertreatment at 60°C results
in significant better fixation and higher depth.
Event Name Page79 Corporate
 Modified process – higher yield
deep navy combination shade
dyed on PA/EL customer material
90°C ERIOFAST FIX treatment 60°C ERIOFAST FIX treatment
90°C washing with soda ash 60°C washing with soda ash

1.7% ERIOFAST Red 2B 0.9% ERIOFAST Red 2B

4.8% ERIOFAST Blue 3R 3.3% ERIOFAST Blue 3R
2.2% ERIOFAST Black M 1.8% ERIOFAST Black M
31 % less dyestuff
for the same shade and depth!

no change of fastness properties !

aftertreatment at 60°C results

in significant higher yield !

Event Name Page80 Corporate

 Temperature of aftertreatment
influence on fastness (washing AATCC 61 2A)
aftertreatment at 90°C aftertreatment at 60°C
CA CO PA PES PAN WO CA CO PA PES PAN WO

4.0 % ERIOFAST Yellow 5G

2.0 % ERIOFAST Yellow R

4.0 % ERIOFAST Orange 4R

6.8 % ERIOFAST Red B

4.4 % ERIOFAST Red 2B

6.0 % ERIOFAST Blue 3R

5.0 % ERIOFAST Blue 3G limitations with

ERIOFAST Reds
4.0 % ERIOFAST Navy M

8.0 % ERIOFAST Black M

Event Name Page81 Corporate

 Temperature of aftertreatment
influence on fastness (washing AATCC 61 2A)

ERIOFAST Reds with the modified ERIOFAST process

• ERIOFAST FIX treatment at 60°C
• Will higher washing temperature improve fastness?
washing at 90°C washing at 60°C
CA CO PA PES PAN WO CA CO PA PES PAN WO

6.0 % ERIOFAST Red 2B

The modified process works also for ERIOFAST Reds

with a small change:

Washing temperature 90°C is required for optimum fastness

(ERIOFAST FIX treatment at 60°C has no negative influence)

Event Name Page82 Corporate

 ERIOPON E3-WOC

• supports washing off unfixed red ERIOFAST dyes

• helps to reduce cotton staining in the multifiber strip
example:
0.07 % ERIOFAST Yellow R
6.00 % ERIOFAST Red B
2.00 % ERIOFAST Blue 3R
dyed on PA/EL customer material

CA CO PA PES PAN WO
60°C ERIOFAST FIX treatment
90°C washing with soda ash
3-4 3-4

60°C ERIOFAST FIX treatment

90°C washing with soda ash incl.
2 g/l ERIOPON E3-WOC 4 4

ERIOPON E3-WOC supports wash-off of ERIOFAST dyes

Event Name Page83 Corporate
 ERIOFAST modified process
for better fastness with
98°C ERIOFAST Reds only
9 0 °C
1°C/min
cold rinse

75°C
60°C
1°C/min rinse
neutralize
40°C

5 5 20 15 40 20 20 min.
A B C D E
A: 0.5 g/l ALBAFLOW CIR or JET D: 0.5-1 ml/l caustic soda 36°Bé
2.0 g/l ALBATEX AB-55* y % ERIOFAST FIX
pH 5.5 pH 11.0
B: x % ERIOFAST dyes
E: 1 g/l soda ash
C: 10 % CaCl2 (2 % for Black M) 2 g/l ERIOPON E3-WOC
*alternative: 2 g/l Na acetate and 1% acetic acid
Event Name Page84 Corporate
 Summary
• Higher pH 5.5 during dyeing makes the process safer
with less risk for precipitation and spots
• Lower temperature of 60°C for ERIOFAST FIX and for
washing
− saves time and energy
− results in higher yield, therefore lower recipe cost and
cleaner effluent
− exception: ERIOFAST Reds are better washed at 90°C
• ERIOPON E3-WOC supports the modified aftertretament

The new modified process:

• offers additional benefits
• helps to save cost
• improves reproducibility
Event Name Page85 Corporate
ERIOFAST Red WF

A new strong and bright ERIOFAST Red

for intensive deep shades with 100% color blocking
without fading in chlorinated pool water
 ERIOFAST Red WF
in a nutshell

• Innovative red dye with excellent build up for deep

intensive shades
• Outstanding wetfastness properties
• Excellent color blocking properties without any bleeding
on adjacent materials, even not on cellulosic fibers.
• Outstanding performance in chlorinated pool water
− without additional fastness improvers
− stable shade in frequent repeated usage
• Recommended for deep shades only

Event Name Page87 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Red WF – build up

ERIOFAST Red 2B

ERIOFAST Red WF

ERIOFAST Red WF shows

better build up than ERIOFAST
Red 2B, ideal for bright intensive
red shades.

ERIOFAST Red WF is slightly

brighter than ERIOFAST Red 2B.

Event Name Page88 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Reds – color blocking

• ERIOFAST dyes have gained an excellent reputation in

the market due to their outstanding performance in color
blocking.
• Color blocking means:
fabrics with contrasting shades are combined in one
garment and the dark shades don’t show any bleeding on
pale or even white shades
• This works perfectly as long as the same substrate is
used in one garment.

No red bleeding on
white PA/EL

Event Name Page89 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Reds – limitations
• Deep red shades based on ERIOFAST Red 2B, Red B or
Orange 4R however show bleeding on cellulosic fibers
• This puts some limits for combining white cellulose fabrics
with with deep red shades dyed on PA or PA/EL

4.0 % ERIOFAST Orange 4R 6.8 % ERIOFAST Red B 4.2 % ERIOFAST Red 2B

WO 5 5 5

PAN 5 5 5

PES 5 5 5

PA 5 5 5

CO 3‒4 4 3‒4

CA 5 5 5

Event Name Page90 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Red WF – wetfastness
very deep red shades in comparison
2 SD Water AATCC 107 Washing 49°C AATCC 2A
ERIOFAST PA CO PA CO
6.7 % Red B 2 2 4-5 5
4.2 % Red 2B 4-5 4 4-5 3-4
3.6 % Red WF 5 5 5 5

• ERIOFAST Red B
fastness to water (contact fastness) suffers due to build up limitations
and oversaturation
• ERIOFAST Red 2B
limitations in washfastness: staining on cotton in the multifiber strip
• ERIOFAST Red WF:
even in very deep shades perfect and excellent wetfastness
properties in contact and in washfastness tests

Event Name Page91 Corporate

 Fastness to chlorinated pool water

• The most important requirement for swimwear

• The usually required chlorine concentrations for the test
are 50 ppm Cl2
• Auxiliaries are available to improve the performance of
dyes, however most of these products
− can cause shade changes in application
− can migrate under certain conditions and create
− are not permanent and lose their function after washing
− are an additional expense and prolong the process

Most ideal are dyes which offer high fastness to chlorine

without any additional treatment

Event Name Page92 Corporate

 Washfast red dyes
50 ppm Cl2 ISO 105-E03

Washfast red polyamide dyes show very different

performance in fastness to chlorinated water

ERIOFAST ERIOFAST ERIOFAST Nylosan Nylosan

Orange 4R Red B Red 2B Orange S-3R Red S-3B

before test

after test

rating 3-4 4-5 2-3 1-2 1-2

Event Name Page93 Corporate

 3 times repeated
50 ppm Cl2 ISO 105-E03

Most critical is a repeated test with 50 ppm Cl2

Even shades with ERIOFAST Red B are heavily damaged

based on based on based on based on

ERIOFAST Red 2B ERIOFAST Orange 4R ERIOFAST Red B ERIOFAST Red 2B
and ERIOFAST Red B

before test

after test test

rating 1 2 1 1

Event Name Page94 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Red WF
fastness to chlorinated water
ERIOFAST Red WF is perfectly stable in chlorinated water
Even a repeated test with 50 ppm Cl2
does not cause a real change!

fastness to chlorinated waterISO 105-E03

20 ppm 50 ppm 100 ppm 3 x repeated
50 ppm

before test

after test test

rating 5 4-5 4 4

Event Name Page95 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Red WF
for deep intensive red shades
Lightfastness
ISO 105 / B02 AATCC 16 E (grey scale)
1/1 SD 2/1 SD 1/1 SD 2/1 SD
ERIOFAST (bluescale) 20 AFU 40 AFU 20 AFU 40 AFU
Red B 4 4-5 4-5 3-4 - -
Red 2B 6 6-7 5 5 - -
Red WF 3-4 4 4 3 4-5 3-4

• ERIOFAST Red WF achieves the lightfastness

requirements for fashionable sports- and swimwear.
• It is not recommended for pale to medium shades and not
as trichromatic red element in combination shades
• For high lightfastess requirements ERIOFAST Red 2B
remains the best choice.
Event Name Page96 Corporate
 ERIOFAST range
extended with ERIOFAST Red WF
ERIOFAST Yellow 5G
Bright lemon yellow dye with highest light and wet ERIOFAST Red 2B
fastness properties. Red component with highest light fastness, similar to
For bright yellow and green shades in combination metal complex dyes, but much higher brilliancy.
with ERIOFAST Blue 3G. Best build-up, excellent compatibility with all other
Can be used as a non-photochromic yellow elements of the range.
2.0% 4.0%
trichromatic element. 2.2% 4.4%
ERIOFAST Blue 3R
ERIOFAST Yellow R Brilliant royal blue, offers by far better wet fastness
Neutral yellow component, basis for brilliant yellow properties compared to acid dyes with similar
and orange shades. shades.
Very good compatibility with all the other dyes of the Highest light fastness, very well compatible with the
range. other dyes of the range.
Main trichromatic yellow element. 3.0% 6.0%
1.0% 2.0%

ERIOFAST Orange 4R ERIOFAST Blue 3G

Very bright non-photochromic orange dye with Greenish blue dye with highest light and wet fastness
excellent wet fastness properties. properties.
In combination with ERIOFAST Red B and For matching all greenish shades in combination with
ERIOFAST Yellow R to match all shades from very ERIOFAST Yellow 5G.
2.0% 4.0% bright orange to intense scarlet. 3.5% 7.0% In trichromatic combinations with ERIOFAST Yellow
R or Yellow 5G and Red 2B to correct metamerism.
ERIOFAST Red B
ERIOFAST Navy M
Most brilliant red component of the ERIOFAST
Innovative navy with outstanding fastness properties,
range.
particularly fastness to chlorinated water.
Basis for all brilliant red and scarlet shades,
Basis for all navies, can be shaded with all
especially in combinations with ERIOFAST Orange
ERIOFAST dyes.Together with ERIOFAST Blue 3R
3.4% 6.8% 4R.
2.6% 3.9% for intensive economic royal blue shades.
ERIOFAST Red WF
Newest red dye for deep intensive shades with ERIOFAST Black M
outstanding wetfastness properties and optimum Innovative black with outstanding wetfastness
performance in chlorinated pool water. Excellent properties. Basis for all black and dull deep navy
color blocking properties. Recommended for deep shades. On some polyamide types a dyeing
intensive shades only. temperature of 105 to 110oC gives improved build-
1.8% 3.6% up.
4.3%

For fine and full-dull polyamide fabrics, deep and intense shades with
highest wet fastness properties can only be achieved with ERIOFAST

Event Name Page97 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Red WF
the new element i the range

Yellow 5G
Yellow R

Orange 4R Red B

Red 2B
Black M

Blue 3G
Red WF
Navy M

Blue 3R

Event Name Page98 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Reds – positioning

ERIOFAST Red B Red 2B Red WF

Very deep red shades

Bright red shades

High lightfastness

High chlorine fastness

Trichromatic red

Color blocking against white CEL

Color blocking against PA and PA/EL

Highly suitable suitable Not suitable

Event Name Page99 Corporate

 Conventional acid dyes on PA
Dyeing rinsing fixing
washing anionic cationic
C
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
Total processing time: 6 hours 50 minutes
10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7
processing time (hours)

Event Name Page100 Corporate

 ERIOFAST modified process
105°C

2-3°C/min
cold rinse

75°C ERIOFAST FIX Washing

60°C
2-3°C/min

40°C neutralize

5 5 17 20 15 30 20 20 20 min.
A B C D E

Total processing time: ~ 4 hours only

Event Name Page101 Corporate

ERIOFAST dyeing – water savings

Conventional PA dyeing ERIOFAST Modified method

• 1 x dyebath • 1 x dyebath
• 1 x washing • 1 x fixing bath
• 5 x rinsing • 1 x washing
• 2 x fixing bath • 2 x rinsing
• 1 x neutralizing • 1 x neutralizing

Total: 10 machine fillings Total: 6 machine fillings

Event Name Page102 Corporate

 Black on PA/EL: staining on Lycra

• The trend to more functional fabrics for lingerie is reflected in the

use of more EL (up to 50%) together with Nylon
• Bare, uncovered Lycra is used in many end articles like:
panties, bras, foundation garments, lingerie tops...
• For certain fabric styles off-tone staining of Lycra is simply not
acceptable, in stretched conditions the Lycra portion will be
visible
• Slightly paler compared to Nylon, but on-tone, is less a problem

Event Name Page103 Corporate

 Black dyes: staining on Lycra

paler, off-tone
ERIONYL Black AMR
redish
paler, off-tone
LANACRON Black S-BN liq.
yellow/green
on-tone
LANASET Black B
slightly paler
on-tone
LANACRON Black BGL 200%
slightly paler
intensive
ERIONYL Black M-BN
deep black
paler,
ERIOFAST Black M
but on-tone

Event Name Page104 Corporate

 ERIONAL® ELA — Shade enhancer
ERIONAL® ELA enhance the shade depth on the EL portion in blends
of PA/EL. Excellent dyeability and highest possible wet fastness
properties of dyeings with ERIOFAST dyes on PA/Elastane blends,
especially elastane part.
。

Event Name Page105 Corporate

 Background
Market needs
• PES/EL becomes more important in sportwear and lingerie. However
it is hard to achieve low dyeing temperature to prevent elastane
damage; elastane coverage to prevent grin through after molding and
high fastness requirement for the brands’.

Huntsman solution:
• Terasil W-EL is suitable for Polyester / Elastane blends with
competitive process cost and prevent elastane damage, high
fastness and also excellent reproducibility.
• ERIONAL® ELA - shade enhancer together with ERIOFAST which
enhance the shade depth on the EL portion in blends of PES/EL and
ensure solid shades and high wet fastness property.
• Excellent dyeability and highest possible wet fastness properties of
dyeings with ERIOFAST dyes on elastane part of PES/Elastane
blends.
Event Name Page106 Corporate
 Dyeing of PES/EL with TERASIL Black W-EL
and ERIOFAST Black M and ERIONAL ELA
Recipe:
0.18% TERASIL Yellow W-EL
0.6 % TERASIL Red W-EL
6.0 % TERASIL Black W-EL

Event Name Page107 Corporate

 AATCC 61 2A Washing Fastness
- ERIOFAST can sustain the RC and heating process of PES and keep the
color on elastane.
- the use of UNIVADINE DFM can also enhance the fastness of washing

Event Name Page108 Corporate

 Shade reproducibility
• Due to the chemical reaction of the ERIOFAST dyes with
ERIOFAST FIX linking agent, the final shade of the dyeing
is only visible after the aftertreatment.

• For shade matching in the laboratory it is very important to do

the aftertreatment with ERIOFAST FIX bevor checking the
shade.

• For bulk production it is convenient to have a Lab sample

available without ERIOFAST FIX.

Event Name Page109 Corporate

 ERIOFAST – from Lab to Bulk

Laboratory Sample, taken from the dyebath

Shade after dyeing
before ERIOFAST FIX Target shade for the dyer

approved shade
(after ERIOFAST FIX)
Final shade in bulk production

Excellent
reproducibility

Event Name Page110 Corporate

 Leveling agent

• ERIOFAST dyes are small-molecular dyes with very good

migration properties. They need Ca2+ for a good build-up
on Polyamide.
• Beause they are small, they migrate very well at dyeing
temperature and cover also barriness.
• A conventional leveling agent works against Ca2+ Ions
and will cause retarding effect and reproducibility
problems (the shade in the Lab will be paler)

Event Name Page111 Corporate

 Reproducibility – Liquor ratio
ERIOFAST liquor ratio 1:20 liquor ratio 1:40 liquor ratio 1:60

• ERIOFAST is a reactive
2.0% Orange 4R
dye but with good 0.2% Red B

stability to Liquor ratio.

• Compare with cotton
reactive dyes, 0.5% Orange 4R
3.0% Red B

ERIOFAST has high

stability to water
hydrolysis. 0.2% Yellow R
1.5% Red 2B
1.0% Blue 3R

1.5% Yellow R
2.3% Blue 3G

Event Name Page112 Corporate

 pH adjustment in laboratory

• Adjusting the pH in the small Lab beaker before

the dyeing process is not very reliable.
• Best practice:
− Use a fixed quantity of acid (e.g. 2 g/l acetic acid) and
check the pH in the dyebath only at the end of the process.
− If the final pH is not correct, adjust the quantity of acetic
acid for the next lab dip.
− After some trials and experience it will be very convenient
to use for each Lab matching the same quantity of acid and
check the pH only at the end.
− Use ALBATEX AB-55 as a buffer solution with pH 5.5
through the dyeing process so as to get a good
reproducibility

Event Name Page113 Corporate

 Reproducibility
pH for ERIOFAST FIX
• In bulk production:
the change of the pH from 5.5 (dyeing pH) to 11 (aftertreatment pH)
happens slowly. Therefore pH should only be checked after heating
up to approx. 80C.
If necessary more caustic soda is added.

• In laboratory
Best practice in lab is to check the pH in the aftertreatment bath
only at the end of the process.
If the final pH is to low, adjust the quantity of caustic soda for the
next lab dip.
After some trials and experience it will be very convenient to use for
each Lab matching the same quantity of caustic soda and check
the pH only at the end.

Event Name Page114 Corporate

 Reproducibility – ERIOFAST FIX
process

pH 12 in
ERIOFAST FIX
process

Event Name Page115 Corporate

 Reproducibility – rinsing after dyeing

• In bulk production:
after dyeing only one short rinse with cold water
(max. 40C) is recommended.
• The main purpose of the rinsing is to rinse out the exceed
calcium chloride and un-reacted dyestuff.

• In laboratory
it is not recommended to wash the fabric with strong
mechanical action under running tap water
• Best practice in lab is to dip the dyed fabric just 2 – 3
times into a beaker with fresh water and then do
immediately the aftertreatment with ERIOFAST FIX.

Event Name Page116 Corporate

ERIOFAST Black M – quantity of CaCl2

• 10% CaCl2 is used for all shades except Black.

• Due to it‘s large size ERIOFAST Black M has a higher
affinity to exhaust to the fiber surface compared to other
ERIOFAST dyes.
• Therefore 2% of CaCl2 is enough to get the best possible
exhaustion to the fiber surface.
• Higher quantities of CaCl2 can be a risk that the dye
precipitates and can cause spots.

Event Name Page117 Corporate

 ERIOFAST Black M – dyeing temperature

• ERIOFAST Black M is a special reactive dye based on a

metal-complex.
• Due to it‘s large size it will not easily penetrate and diffuse
into some PA fibers.
• The only way to guarantee sufficient depth and build-up is
a higher dyeing temperature.
• Usually 105°C is the best way to develop a deep black
shade.
• Important is to reach also in the Lab machine this higher
temperature.

Event Name Page118 Corporate

 Polyamide dyes - Positioning

ERIOFAST
Brilliancy

LANASET
micro
TECTILON LANASET PA
LANACRON N ERIOFAST
Black M

Fastness

Event Name Page119 Corporate

 Solutions for neon shades on
polyamide and blends with
elastane

Dyeing concepts tailormade

for specific requirements
Creating Value
for our Partners in
Polyamide Delivering shades and state-of-
the-art fastness as required by
brands and retailers

Creating a
sustainable business

Event Name Page120 Corporate