Handbook of

Garments Manufacturing Technology - II

Prepared By-
Md. Kamrul Hasan
Batch: 15th (SEU)
 Southeast University
Department of Textile Engineering

Special Thanks to -

Adnan Zaber Mahmud

Lecturer,
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University

And

Md. Hanif Hossain

15th Batch

Prepared By-
Md. Kamrul Hasan
15th Batch
Department of Textile Engineering

Cell: 01929622432
01723298989

Email: [email protected]

It is a collection of class lectures of our respectable teacher Adnan Zaber Mahmud

and collection from other sources.
 INDEX
SL No Topics Page No
01 General Discussion on Garments 01
02 Buying house 01
03 Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh 02
04 How buyers place an order? 03
05 Some major garments manufacturer countries 03
06 GSP 04
07 Steps of Garments Export Procedure 06
08 In-line Inspection, On-line Inspection, Tech. Pack, BOM Sheet, ICD 12
09 FOB, C & F ,CIF, CM, CMT, Lead Time, Compliance 13
10 Different types of Agents in Garments Sector 14
11 Documents required for Export 15
12 Documents required for Import 16
13 Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade 17
14 Documents required for Payment 19
15 Garments common item export from Bangladesh 20
16 Garments Accessories/Trims 26
17 Stitch and Seam 35
18 Sewing Threads 45
19 Thread Count and Ticket Number 49
20 Garment Defects 50
21 Application of Sewing Machines in Garments Manufacturing 53
22 Some Garments Industrial Sewing Machine Figure 55
23 Parts of the Sewing Machine 58
24 Pressing 62
25 Packing into Carton 63
26 Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) 64
27 Fabric (Which are used in Garments) 66
28 Machine Lay-out of Garment 70
29 Sewing Flow Chart of T-Shirt & Polo-Shirt Manufacturing 72
30 Sewing Flow Chart of Trouser (Jeans pant) Manufacturing 77
31 Some Important Terms 79
32 Care Labeling Code 80
 General Discussion on Garments

Some factors related to buying side:

 Customer:
Those who buy a product & use the product.
 Retailer:
Those who sell product to the customer through outlets and they buy from
wholesalers/buyers.
 Wholesaler:
Those who sell product to the retailers and they buy in large quantity
from suppliers.
 Importer:
Those who buy from overseas countries and sell these to
wholesaler/retailer/customer.
 Buyer:
Those who buy from suppliers/seller and sell further to another buyer or
customer.

Some factors related to selling side:

 Seller:
Those who sell to the buyers. They may/may not manufacture the
product.
 Supplier:
They are a kind of seller.
 Manufacturer:
Those who manufacture the product.
 Exporter:
Those who sell to the buyers in the overseas countries.
 Trader:
Those who mediates between buyer and manufacturer. Trader are two
types such as local and foreign.

Buying house:
1. Buyer liaison office (Buyer will directly open a branch).
2. Traders are of two types- i). Foreign Trader& ii). Local Trade
*** 80% Trader (Baridhara, Uttara) and 20% Liaison office (Gulsion, Dhaka).

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List of Traders:
Multinational trader: Local Trader:
1. Li & Fung (Hongkong) 1. Centrotex (BD)
2. Comptextile (Shrilanka) 2. Team sourcing (Uttara; BD)
3. Texebo 3. Norwest (BD)
4. Asmara (India)
5. Mondial (Europe)
6. Lin mark (Europe)
7. ZXY Apparel Buying Solution (Europe)
8. Synergies

Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh:

Generally buyers of USA, Europe, Japan, Australia, India, and Canada are the
main buyers of garments and Textile product of Bangladesh.
Name of some important buyers of these countries are given below-

USA buyer Europe buyer Others buyer

1. Wal-mart 1. Zara Japanese buyer:
2. Levi’s 2. H & M 1. Uniquelo
3. Academy 3. M & S (Marks & Spencer)
4. Banana 4. Nike Australian buyer:
5. Gap 5. Adidas 1. K-mark
6. PVH (Phillips Von Heuson) 6. Armani
7. Peri Ellis 7. Next Indian buyer:
8. Jcpenny 8. Mango 1. Black Berry
9. Old Navy 9. Tesco 2. Mahendra
10.American Eagle 10.Tema 3. ITC
11.NKD 4. Ramond
12.Jd Williams
13.Adler Canadian buyer:
14.European Eagle 1. Hudson Bay
15.Jack & Jones 2. Boss Hugo
16.Carrefour 3. Hugger Canada
17.Sains Burry
18.Abercrombie & Fitch

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Question: How buyers place an order?
Which are used according to confirmation of order is given by below-

Seasons of Export in USA:

 Spring
 Summer
 Fall

Seasons of Export in Europe:

a)
i) Spring
ii) Summer January to Jun

b)
i) Autumn
ii) Winter July to December

Some major garments manufacturer countries:

1. China
2. Bangladesh
3. India
4. Shrilanka
5. Vietnam
6. Combodia
7. Mianmar
8. Thailand
9. Turkey
10.Indonesia
11.Pakistan

Turkey: This country is suitable for highly decorative and fancy garments.

China: Buyers select China for decorative garments and short time shipment.

India: Buyers select India for decorative garments.

Vietnam: Buyers select Vietnam for plain printed T-Shirt.

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Combodia: Buyers select Combodia for plain printed T-Shirt.

Bangladesh: Bangladesh is a Lower Developing Country with GSP facility.

Buyers import various types of garments from Bangladesh.

GSP:
The Generalized System of Preferences (known as GSP for short) is a scheme
whereby a wide range of industrial and agricultural products originating in
certain developing countries are given preferential access to the markets of the
European Union.
Preferential treatment is given in the form of reduced or zero rates of customs
duties.
The GSP scheme is specifically designed to benefit certain developing countries
and integrate them into the world economy.
Since 1971, the EU has had rules ensuring that exporters from developing
countries pay lower duties on some or all of what they sell to the EU. This gives
them vital access to EU markets contributing to the growth of their economies.
This scheme is known as the "Generalized System of Preferences".
Today Bangladesh offers a very flexible and feasible production base for its
customers in EU, America and Australia.
The EU market is quota free for apparels and goods are eligible for the GSP
facilities. As an LDC member Bangladesh also obtain special Tariff benefit
from Canada (18% import Tax free).

Importance of GSP Status:

Bangladesh has an excellent opportunity to boost exports of garments to the
USA and EU countries where demand for
 Low price
 Good quality
 Capacity

So, GSP status is very important for us.

 With the GSP status, Bangladeshi garment products can enter the market
duty free. On the other hand, its absence, it has to pay 12 percent import
duties for most products. This status helps decrease the cost per unit of
garments, causing the demand to rise.
 This not only helps the garment industry but also the entire economy.

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  Increased trade means higher export earnings which help promote further
industrialization, leading to higher economic growth.
 Now let us look at a more concrete example. Bangladesh’s apparel
exports to the EU made a leap since January 2011 when it allowed GSP
for Bangladeshi garments made from imported fabrics. Previously,
Bangladesh used to enjoy the GSP benefit only for those garments made
from local fabrics.
 There is a 46 percent rise in apparel exports between a year without and
with GSP, indicating the importance of this status in the country’s apparel
industry.

Graph of GSP

 Without it, the price per unit of garment will rise and this may lead to
many European buyers turning their backs on our products.

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5
Steps of Garments Export Procedure:
1. Inquiry of a product:
First of all, supplier collects the product from the buyer and enquiry the product.

2. Space Availability/Timely delivery:

Space availability is the availability of production floor for the production of
garments. Within the time, garments must be delivery.

3. Costing/Pricing/Quotation:
Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments.
Costing is done considering-
i) Fabric cost
ii) Accessories cost &
iii) CM (Cost of Making) cost

Way of Costing:
Costing can be done by-
i) Original Sample
ii) Specification

4.Order Confirmation:
An order confirmation is a written document which is issued by buyer to the
manufacturer which contains Tech-pack. It serves as tool to avoid confusion and
mistakes.

5. PO (Purchase Order):
After confirmation of an order buyer provides seller a written document which
mention the order details such as-

- Order quantity
- Delivery date
- Port of destination
- Item description
- Item unit price etc.

6. Master L/C:
A guarantee letter of payment. This letter ensure that seller will get his payment
after delivery of the goods. It is issued by the bank of buyer to the bank of
manufacturer.

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7. T & A Calendar Made by the factory:
T & A or “Time and Action” calendar is made by the manufacturer to complete
the production within a specific period of time.

8. Fabric & Accessories Booking by the factory:

After making of T & A calendar, fabric & accessories booking is necessary.
Without fabric, all materials used in garments is called “Accessories” or
“Trimmings”. Accessories includes-

i) Sewing Thread
ii) Button
iii) Interlining
iv) Zipper
v) Label
vi) Tissue Paper
vii) Ball head pin
viii) Hager
ix) Carton
x) Rib and
xi) Plastic Clip etc.

9. BB (Back to Back) L/C opened by the factory:

Back to Back L/ C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw materials from
the suppliers. It has 70-80% financial value of Master L/C.

Difference between Master L/C and Back to Back L/C:

Master L/C Back to Back L/C

Master L/C is prepared by the buyer Back to Back L/C is prepared by the
to import goods from the manufacturer to collect raw materials
manufacturer. for the production.
This L/C is issued by the buyer to the This L/C is issued by the manufacturer
manufacturer. to the raw material suppliers.
It is the basic L/C. It depends on Master L/C.
It has higher financial value than the It has lower financial value than the
Back to Back L/C. Master L/C (70-80% of Master L/C).

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10. Sampling:
In garments industry, the sample which is come from buyer and it is followed
for bulk production called sample. The process of collecting or making sample
is called “Sampling”.

Types of Garments Sample:

a. Proto Sample:
Features:
 This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
 This sample is made before or after order confirmation.

Purpose:
Here buyer checks whether supplier can make the garments.

b. Fit Sample:
Features:
 This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
 This sample is made after order confirmation.

Purpose:
Here buyer checks the fitness or measurement of the garments.

c. P.P (Pre-Production) Sample:

Features:
 This sample is made by actual fabric and accessories.
 This sample is made after order confirmation.
 These samples must be approved by the buyer before production.

Purpose:
Bulk production is done following P.P sample.

d. Size Set Sample:

Features:
 These samples are made in all sizes.
 These samples are made in the production floor.
 These samples are not sent to the buyer.

Purpose:
These samples are only used for PP meeting.

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e. Production Sample:
Features:
 These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk
production is running.
 These samples are sent to the buyer.

Purpose:
Here buyer compares Production Sample with the PP Sample.

f. Garments Test Sample:

Features:
 These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk
production is running.
 These samples are sent to the testing house.

Purpose:
Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and send “test
report” to the buyer and factory.

Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are below-

 Dimensional Stability Tests
 Seam Strength Tests
 Button Attaching Tests
 Spirality Tests
 Color Fastness Tests
 Abrasion Tests
 Radiation of Materials Tests
Name of Some Testing Houses/Companies:
i) SGS
ii) ITS Multinational
iii) TUV SUD
iv) Burean Veritas
Functions of Testing Houses:
 Garment test
 Fabric test
 Accessories test
 Inline-inspection
 Pre-final inspection
 Final inspection
 Garments factory auditing for compliance.

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g. Shipment Samples:
Features:
 These samples are not so mandatory.
 These samples are sent to the buyer after shipment of the garments.

Purpose:
Here buyer compares Shipment Sample with Production Sample.

h. Salesman Samples:
The sample which is made for market appraisal or marketing purpose then it is
called salesman sample. It is made at the final stage of order confirmation and
actual materials are used for marketing the sample.

11. Fabric & Trims in House:

Here confirms all fabrics and accessories in manufacturer storehouse in time.
Otherwise the schedule will be hampered.

12. Inspection of Inventory& Report Making:

Check the quality & quantity of fabrics and accessories in house. After checking
a report is made with the test data.

13. PP (Pre-production) Meeting:

This meeting is held just before going to the bulk production. This meeting is
conducted by following persons-

 Buying House QC
 Factory QC
 Buying House Merchandiser
 Factory Merchandiser
 Pattern Master
 Cutting Master
 Production Manager
 Sample man

14. Pattern and Marker Making for Bulk Production:

Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications of each
and individual components for a particular style of garment.
Marker is a thin paper contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular size of garments.

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15. Trial or Pilot Cutting:
Little amount (for 200-300 pieces of garments) of fabrics are cut for checking
the efficiency and production cost of the garments.

16. Bulk Cutting:

Here total fabrics are cut for bulk production.

17. Numbering, Bundling & Sorting:

After cutting of fabrics numbering, Bundling and sorting process are done. Then
cut pieces are sent to the sewing section.

18. Production Line Set-up:

Production line set-up is the arrangement of sewing machines where input of the
first machine is cutting part of the fabrics and the output of the last machine is
complete garments. Production line is 4 types –

19. Sewing:
Cutting pieces are attached by sewing to make the complete garments. Different
types of sewing machines are used in production line.

20. Finishing:
Finishing includes- Ironing and Packing.

21. Pre-Final Inspection:

This inspection is done after 70% production will be completed by factory QC.

22. Final Inspection:

This inspection is done after complete of 100% production. Final inspection is
conducted by the –
i) Buyer Foreign
ii) Buyer QC
iii) Trader QC Local
iv) Self Inspection: Conducted by the factory QC.
v) Third Party Inspection: Conducted by the testing houses.

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23. Delivery:
If everything is ok, then supplier sent the goods to the buyer.

In-line Inspection:
During production, buyer QC will come and check the product quality and
suggest to over-come any type of problem. This type of inspection is called In-
line Inspection.

On-line Inspection:
Inspection at the end of the production line during production is called On-line
Inspection. This inspection is conducted by the factory QC.

Tech. Pack (Technical Package):

The file which contains the specification of product is called “Tech-pack” or
“Specification File” or “PDM” (Product Development Manual) or “Order
Sheet” or “Product Package”. Technical Package is issued by the buyer and
collected by the manufacturer. A technical package which mention-

i) Design or Sketch of garments

ii) Fabric details:
 Composition
 Color
 Construction
 GSM or oz/yd2
 Any other instruction

iii) Accessories details

iv) Any Kind of Instruction
v) Garments Size ( called “Measurement Chart” or “Size Chart” )

BOM Sheet:
The pages of specification file contain fabric and accessories detail is called
BOM (Bill of Material) Sheet.

ICD:
ICD means Inland Container Depot. The goods which are not suitable to
transport in carton because of introducing crease marks. So goods are transport
by hanging in ICD. These goods are suit, blazer, dress pant, dress shirt etc.

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 FOB (Free on Board):
It is the value of the product which is claimed/fixed without the cost
transportation of the goods.

C & F (Cost and Freight):

It is the value of the product which is claimed/fixed including the cost
transportation of the goods.

CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight):

It is the value of the product which is claimed/fixed including the cost
transportation and insurance.

CM (Cost of Making):
Buyer will provide all the fabric and accessories. Manufacturers have to make
only garment and he will get charge of making only.

CMT (Cost of Making and Trimming):

Buyer will provide all fabric. Manufacturer will get the making charge and at
the same time will get the trimming cost.

Lead Time:
The time between order confirmation to the delivery is called lead time.

Compliance:
Compliance means comply something that is yield to the wishes another. The
main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labour rights and facilities
according to the Buyer code of conduct. These include-
 Safety
 Healthy environment
 Working time
 Over time
 Salary & Wages
 Facilities (Dining, Child care, Toilet, Doctor)

Factories may be classified as-

 Compliant
 Semi Compliant &
 Non-Compliant

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Different types of Agents in Garments Sector:
1. Currier Companies:
Sample or any other important documents necessary for export are sent by the
currier.

Name of Some Currier:

1. DHL
2. Aramex
3. TNT
4. Fedex
5. UPS
6. Sky net
7. DPEX
8. Dragon

2. C& F (Clearing & Forwarding) Agent:

They are only handle all kinds of customs related documents are called C & F
Agent. They work for exporter. Exporter pays the C & F Agents.

Name of Some C & F Agent:

1. Continental
2. Chitra
3. Epsheeta

3. Logistic Firms or Freight Forwarding Agent or Forwarder:

The firms or agents which take the responsibility to receive the goods from
factory to Chittagong port and send to the buyer destination or buyer agent are
called “Logistic Firms”. Buyer pays the logistic firms.

Names of Some Logistic Firms:

i) Maersk
ii) APL
iii) MGH
iv) NYK
v) Kuhen & Negel
vi) Expolonca
vii) Damco
viii) NMC Corporation Ltd.
ix) HTL Logistic
x) Crown Logistic

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4. Bank:
They take care our payment and all financial matters.

5. Testing Companies:

Functions of testing company:

 Garment test
 Fabric test
 Accessories test
 Inline-inspection
 Pre-final inspection
 Final inspection
 Garments factory auditing for compliance.

6. Transportation Companies:
Any kind of textile material transport by transportation companies.

Documents required for Export:

1. Trade License:
This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or
Poroshova.

2. Bank current account:

This account will be any scheduled commercial bank.

3. TIN (Tax Identification Number) certificate:

It is issued by NBR (National Board of Revenue).

4. Membership of BGMEA or BKMEA or DCCI or BGBA:

This membership which protect from any kind of accident such as conflict
between any industry.
Note:
BGMEA = Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
DCCI = Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry.
BGBA = Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association.

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5. ERC (Export Registration Certificate):
It is issued by office of the controller of export & import.

6. VRC (Vat Registration Certificate):

It is issued by customs. It does not need to renew.

7. EXP (Export Permission):

It is issued by any scheduled commercial bank. For each order this EXP is
issued separately.

8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies
and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.

9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and Firms) include
member details.

Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.

Documents required for Import:

1. Trade License:
This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or
Poroshova.

2. Bank current account:

This account will be any scheduled commercial bank.

3. TIN (Tax Identification Number) certificate:

It is issued by NBR (National Board of Revenue).

4. Membership of BGMEA or BKMEA or DCCI or BGBA:

This membership which protect from any kind of accident such as conflict
between any industry.
Note:
BGMEA = Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
DCCI = Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry.
BGBA = Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association.

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5. IRC (Import Registration Certificate):
It is issued by office of the controller of export & import.

6. VRC (Vat Registration Certificate):

It is issued by customs. It does not need to renew.

7. IMP (Import Permission):

It is issued by any scheduled commercial bank. For each order this EXP is
issued separately.

8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies
and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.

9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered Joint Stock Company) include member details.

Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.

Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade:

1. L/C (Letter of Credit):
A guarantee letter of payment. This letter ensure that seller will get his payment
after delivery of the goods.
Types of L/C-
a) L/C at sight: Incase of L/C at sight after delivery of the goods and
documents seller will get his paymentinstantly.

b) Deferred at sight: Incase of deferred at sight after delivery of the goods

and documents seller will not get his payment instantly. Such as-

 L/C at 30 days sight

 L/C at 45 days sight
 L/C at 60 days sight
 L/C at 90 days sight
 L/C at 120 days sight
 L/C at 180 days sight

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2. T/T (Telegraphic Transfer):
T/T means Cash Taka. When order quantity is very small and need urgent
delivery, in that case, buyer gives sales contract instead of L/C and sends money
to seller bank by T/T. After getting money, the seller sends the goods to buyer.
Now it is not use.
Types of T/T-
a) Open T/T: Buyer will pay open either 100% or 70% or 50% or 30%.

b) Conditional T/T: Buyer will pay advance but can not money without
showing documents.

3. D/P (Documents against payment):

Buyer gives order by sales contract instead of L/C but it is risky method. After
delivery of the goods and documents seller will not get his payment guaranteed.

4. D/A (Documents against acceptance):

This is the most risky method. After delivery of the good send documents buyer
will delay the payment. Such as-

 D/A at 30 days sight

 D/A at 45 days sight
 D/A at 60 days sight
 D/A at 90 days sight
 D/A at 120 days sight
 D/A at 180 days sight

5. Western Union:
This union is used for very small quantity of the garments. For example: 300pcs
of garments.

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Documents required for Payment:
1. Commercial invoice:
Commercial invoice is the final invoice and basic document. It contain all the
details like name & address of importer and exporter, description of goods,
quantity, rate, value of goods, details of shipment.

2. Packing List:
This is a document that indicates the contents of each individual carton/
package in the container. The packing list includes the cubic
measurement of the cartons/package, the weight, the number of
cartons/packages, the breakdown of the goods by size/color/quantity. This
document is prepared by the seller or the ship owner, and the buyer can
specify which information should be included.

3. Bill of Landing or Air Way Bill:

Bill of Landing is a document issued by the shipping company acknowledging
that the goods have been shipped on board or air and undertaking that the goods
as received will be delivered to the consignee (Buyer).
When the export contract is CIF, then the exporter makes payment of the freight
and gets “freight paid” Bill of Landing. On the other hand, if the contract is
FOB, the freight has to be paid by the importer. In that case, the shipping
company will issue a “freight collect” Bill of Landing.

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 Garments common item export from Bangladesh
There are three categories of garments that we export-

 Woven Garments
 Knit Garments &
 Heavy Knit Garments

Woven Garments:

1. Shirt:
Men top garments. Shirt is of two types-

a) Basic/Formal/Dress/Official shirt
b) Casual/Pilot shirt

2. Pants/Trouser: Fig: Shirt Fig: Pant

shirt
Men bottom garments. Pants may be of two types-
a) Formal/Dress/Chino pants
b) Casual pants. e.g. Jeans pants, Cargo pants.

3. Half Pants or Shorts:

Men bottom garments above the knee. e.g. Cargo shorts.
Fig: Half pant
4. 3/4 of Pants or Bermuda:
Men bottom garments under the knee, above the ankle.
e.g. Three quarter.

5. Skirt:
Ladies bottom garments.

6. Blouse: Fig:Three quarter Fig: Skirt

Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies shirt or ladies fotua.

7. Dress:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies kamiz.

Fig: Capris
8. Capri’s: Fig: Ladies shirt
Ladies pant above the ankle & below the knee but not ¾ of pants.

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9. Jacket/Blazer/Coat:
Men top garments containing “Lapel” and Taffeta.
Fig: Pant
10. Padded Jacket: Fig: Blazer
Jacket that contains “Quilting”.

11. Trench Coat:

Long coat with waist belt.

12. Gilet:
Sleeveless thick jacket that is mainly used in Europe.
Fig: Gilet Fig: Parka
13. Parka:
It is another type of jacket but in has a hairy look in the collar part.

14. Vest/over coat/waist coat:

Sleeveless coat with button at front that is basically used as dress.
e.g. Mujib coat.

15. Pajamas/Night wear/Sleep wear: Fig: Vest

Night dress- both top & bottom.

16. Cover all:

One type of work wear that covers full body.

17. Overall:
One type of sleeveless work wear that covers full body.

18. Short all:

One type of sleeveless work wear that covers half of the body.

19. Head Wear:

Different types of cap, hat etc.

Fig: Cap

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Knit or Light Knit Garments:

1. T-Shirt:
Top garments that must not contain placket. It may contain half collar or
not. Collar of T-Shirt is made by circular rib machine. Generally single
jersey fabric of GSM 120-220 is used to make T-Shirt.

2. Polo Shirt:
Top garments that must have placket and collar. The collar of Polo Shirt
is made by flat bed knitting machine. Double jersey fabrics are used to
make Polo Shirt.

Fig: T-shirt
Fig: Polo-shirt
3. Tank Top:
Sleeveless top garments for men containing strap. E.g. Santo ganji.

4. Sweat Shirt:
Long sleeve T-Shirt made by fleece fabric. Fig: Santo ganji
5. Swim wear:
Clothing specially made for swimming purposes. These garments are skin
tight, made of hydrophobic fibre and water proof.
6. Sports Wear:
Garments used in any type of sports.

7. Socks:
An item of clothing that is worn on feet.

Fig: Sports wear

Fig: Swim wear Fig: Socks

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8. Hoody:
Long sleeve top garments with hood. Generally made of fleece fabric.

9. Knit dress:
10. Knit Pajamas:
Night dress- both top & bottom.

11. Knit Trousers:

Basically knitted pants which are very much comfortable to wear. Fig: Hoody

12. Briefs:
Men’s under wear (short).

13. Lingerie:
Only ladies under garments.
14. Singlet:
Sleeveless ladies top garments with strap.

Fig: Briefs Fig: Lingerie Fig: Singlet Fig: Tights

15. Tights/Hose/Leggings:
Tight fit ladies garments. Used in Bottom.

16. Gloves:
Gloves have individual finger coverings, offering more
mobility but less overall warmth than mittens.
Fig: Gloves

17. Mitten:
A covering for the hand that encases the thumb separately
and the four fingers together.

18. Boxer Shorts: Fig: Mitten

Long size men underwear above the knee.
Fig: Boxer shorts

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Heavy Knit or Sweater:

1. Pullover:
Long sleeve sweater without button at front.

2. Slipover:
Sleeveless sweater without button at front.

3. Vest/Waist Coat/Over Coat:

Sleeveless sweater with button at front.

4. Cardigan:
Long sleeve sweater with button at front.

5. Zip-up:
Long sleeve sweater with zipper at front.

6. Half-zip:
Long sleeve sweater with half-zipper at front.

Fig: Pullover Fig: Slipover Fig: Vest

Fig: Cardigan Fig: Zip-up Fig: Half-zip

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Types of Fleece:
Generally there are two types of fleece.

i. Terry fleece:
Here one side single jersey and other side is brushed.
ii. Polar fleece:
Here both sides are brushed.

Fig: Terry fleece Fig: Polar fleece

Types of Stripe:
Generally there are two types of stripe.

1. Feeder Stripe:
When the repeat size of strip in the fabric is less or equal 4 cm. then it is
called Feeder Stripe.

2. Engineering Stripe:
When the repeat size of strip in the fabric is greater than 4 cm. then it is
called Feeder Stripe.

Outer Wear:
Garments that protection from bad weather are called outer wear.
e.g. Rain Coat, Trench Coat, Gilet, Wind Breaker.

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 Garments Accessories/Trims
Without fabric all are accessories. It includes thread, button, interlining, zipper,
main label, size label etc.
Accessories can be divided into 2 groups-
 Sewing accessories
 Finishing accessories

Sewing accessories:
1. Sewing thread:
Sewing thread is the most important sewing accessories. Sewing thread helps to
sew various parts and accessories with the garment. There is slight difference
between yarn and thread. Yarns are generally single ply while threads are
generally double plied. Yarn is produced from fiber and threads are produced
from yarns.

2. Interlining:
Interlining is one kind of accessories used between two layers of the fabrics in
the garments which is invisible. To keep the different component or part of a
apparel in a desired shape. It may be of 2 types-fusible and non-fusible. Also
can be divided into 2 other types-woven and non-woven. TC interlining is
widely used to avoid shrinkage problem of 100% cotton interlining. Non-woven
interlining made of paper which is widely used in pants is called Pelion. It is
cheaper and it has high shrinkage resistant.

Uses: Used in waist band, belt loop, fly piece, collar, cuff and any place where
strength of the material is necessary.

3. Lining:
Lining is extra fabric (different from main/shell fabric) that is used inside the
garment for covering the fabric of that garment and to provide extra protection
and reinforcement on the garment to keep the shape of the fabric intact. Lining
and interlining is almost similar in purpose, however interlining is generally
invisible whereas lining is visible. Lining is seen in Blazer& Jacket which is
generally made of Taffeta fabric consisting Polyester & Nylon.

Fig: Sewing thread Fig: Interlining Fig: Lining (Taffeta)

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4. Label:
A label is accessories which indicate various instructions about garments. The
label is attached with garments by sewing. It may be of 2 types- woven label
and printed label. Normally 3 types of labels are used in apparel industry-

 Main label: This label generally contains the brand/company name or

country name.
 Size label: This label contains the size of the garment for easy selection
of size.
 Care label: This label contains fabric composition and care instructions
and also the name of the country of origin.

Fig: Main label Fig: Size label Fig: Care label

5. Zipper:
 It has mainly 4 parts- stopper, slider, tape and teeth.
 Zipper length is measured from stopper to stopper.
 Tape is normally made of nylon or polyester to avoid shrinkage.
 Zipper teeth are normally made of golden brass, antique brass,
antique nickel, antique copper, aluminum, plastic, or nylon.
Types of Zipper:
 Plastic zipper or nylon zipper
 Metal zipper &
 Vislon zipper
6. Elastic:
 It is made of lycra (spandex).
 Elastic tapes are mentioned by their width, such as ½″, ¾″, 1″, 1.5″, 2″,
5″ etc.
 It may be of different colors and it is found with different stretch ability.
Uses: For kids (up to 0-11) trousers and shorts, button hole elastic must be
used.Also used for the bottom waist band of a jacket, vest or pull-over shirt.
Also for pants, shorts and skirts.

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7. Twill tap:
Herringbone type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt, Cargo pant etc.

8. Canvas tap:
Plain weave type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc.

Fig: Elastic Fig: Twill tape Fig: Canvas tape

9. Shoulder pad:
Shoulder pads are shaped pads used at the shoulder areas of a garment to give a
raised shape or an extended shoulder line to the finished garment. Normally
used in blazer and jacket.

10. Premade waist band:

Pre-made waist band is used inside the waist band for extra decoration.

11. Rib:
Rib is a double jersey fabric. Rib is used as-

 Collar of T-shirt: This is made by circular knitting machine.

 Collar of Polo-shirt: This is made by flat-bed knitting machine.
 Collar of sweater & hoody.
 Cuff of T-shirt & Polo-shirt
 Cuff of sweater & hoody.

Fig: Shoulder pad Fig: Pre-made waist band Fig: Rib

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12: Button:
Button is an important sewing accessory which is used for fastening and also
used for decorative purpose. Button is made of plastic or metal. Normally size
of button is measured by “Ligne”.
Where,
1 Ligne = 0.635 mm

28L

For example 18L, 24L, 32L etc. All these in fact refers to the circumference of
button.

Types of Button:
According to the number of hole button can be classified as-
 2 hole button &
 4 hole button

13. Hook & loop or Hook & Bar or Velcro:

Commercial name is ‘Velcro’. Hook & Loop fasteners consist of two
components typically two lineal strips which are attached to the opposing
surfaces to be fastened. The first component features even smaller and “hairier”
loops. When the two components are pressed together, the hooks catch in the
loops and the two pieces fasten or bind temporarily. When separated, by pulling
the two surfaces apart, the Velcro strips make a distinctive ripping sound.
Velcro Tapes are good example of Hook & Loop which are generally used in
bags, shoes etc. Normally used in kids wear, jacket, cargo pants etc.

Fig: Button Fig: Hook & Loop

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Finishing accessories:
Accessories that used in finishing are called finishing accessories. Finishing
accessories generally used in garments are described below-
Name of Some Sewing Accessories:

1. Shank Button:
Shank Button is a fastening device that has no hole. It contains two parts which
are attached by pressing. It is used in casual garments. The button-hole of shank
button is called “Eyelet’’. This button is attached by snap attaching machine.

2. Snap:
Snap is a fastening device that contains four parts.

3. Rivet:
It is a fastening device contains two parts. It used for fastening and decorative
purpose. The size of rivet is expressed in “Ligne”. Rivet uses for design and
strength. Normally used in jeans pant & canvas pant.

Fig: Shank button Fig: Snap Fig: Rivet

4. Buckle:
Metal buckle used in waist band of trench coat.

5. Patch:
To attach back side of waist belt of jeans which contain brand name. Made of
leather or rexgine. It is used for decorative purpose.

Fig: Buckle Fig: Patch

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6. Pocket Flasher:
Pocket flasher is a hard paper or cardboard flap attached to the right back pocket
of jeans which contain brand name and logo. It is used for decorative purpose.

7. Butterfly:
This is an accessory which is generally found in the front part of collar of shirts
where button is attached. Generally made of plastic or paper.

8. Collar Stay:
To attach in collar point of a shirt which is invisible.

Fig: Pocket flasher Fig: Butterfly Fig: Collar stay

9. Collar Stand:
Generally made of plastic or paper to keep the shape of the collar.

10. Neck Board:

Generally found at the back & below the collar of a shirt. Made of paper or
plastic.

11. Back Board/Card Board:

Backboard is a hardboard/hard paper is placed inside shirt for keeping its shape
unchanged after packing.

12. Clip:

Fig: Collar stand

Fig: Back board Fig: Clip

Note: Point (7-12) accessories of shirt.

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 Fig: Draw cord

Fig: Pant (Trouser)

Fig: Stopper
16. Poly Bag:
A plastic bag, polybag, or pouch is a type of packaging made of thin, flexible,
plastic film, plastic textile. This is basically used for packaging and
transportation. There are two types of polybags available, namely individual
polybag and blister polybag. Individual polybag contain only one package in
one bag on the other hand blister polybag contain multiple packages in one bag.

17. Carton:
The goods are packed into cartons. Carton is the name of certain types of
containers typically made from paperboard which is also sometimes
known as card board. Many types of cartons are used in packaging.
Sometimes a carton is also called a box. Cartons are judges by the plies.
Generally 3, 5, 7, 9 ply cartons are available.

Ply Carton strength Cost

Fig: Carton Fig: Polybag

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18. Hook & Eye:
Hooks and eyes are small but comparatively strong fasteners which contains 4
parts. Though they are mostly applied at single point of a garment opening, such
as waistband or neckline, they can also be used to fasten an entire opening.
Normally used in formal pants, kids garments etc.

19. Price Ticket:

Also known as UPC (Unit price code) ticket in the garment industry. It is paper
made tag which normally mentions price and bar code. Bar code sticker may be
attached separately on it.

Fig: Hook & eye Fig: Price ticket

20. Hang tag: Separate tag hung in a garment.
21. Tag pin:
22. Hanger:
The garments are packed into the container on hangers.

Fig: Hang tag Fig: Tag pin Fig: Hanger

23. Size clip or Sizer:
Sizer is a part of hanger which contains garments size.
24. Size Strip:
Trim that used at front of pants. It contains the size of the pants.

25. Belt:

D-
rin
g

Fig: Size clip Fig: Size strip Fig: Belt

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26. Tissue Paper:
Thin, soft paper, typically used for wrapping or protecting fragile or delicate articles.

27. Photo-in-lay:
Photo-in-lay is used for packing Santo ganji.

28. Gum Tape:

Gum tapes are used for closing the carton.

Fig: Tissue paper Fig: Photo-in-lay Fig: Gum tape

Name of Some Accessories Company in Bangladesh:

1. Montrims. (Anser Academy, Sofipur, Gazipur) Largest accessories
manufacturing company in Bangladesh.
2. KDS

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 Stitch and Seam:
Stitch:
Stitch is a loop or unit in seam line, produced by sewing.

Seam:
Seam is a joint where two or more plies of fabric are held together.
Stitch

Seam
Sewing:
The process of joining of fabric by the use of needle and sewing thread is called
sewing.

Difference between yarn and thread:

Yarn is produced from spinning and thread is produced from ply of yarn which
is used for sewing.
Thread is used in sewing because of its-
 More strength
 More durability
 More abrasion resistant etc.

Methods of Stitch Formation:

Interlooping Intralooping Interlacing

One loop of one thread One loop of one thread One thread passes over
passes through another passes through another another thread. Here, two
loop of another thread. loop of the same thread. threads are used.
Here, two threads are Here, one thread is used.
used.

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Types of stitch:
Stitch types are generally classified in six categories. These are-

1. Stitch Class-100 (Single thread chain stitch)

2. Stitch Class-200 (Hand stitch)
3. Stitch Class-300 (Lock stitch)
4. Stitch Class-400 (Multi thread chain stitch)
5. Stitch Class-500 (Over lock stitch or over edge neatening)
6. Stitch Class-600 (Covering chain stitch)

Some brief descriptions of various stitch classes are given below.

1. Stitch Class-100 (Single thread chain stitch):

 In this stitch, one loop passing through another loop of same thread.
 Stitches are formed one set of thread called “Needle Thread”.
 Stitches are formed by intra-looping.
 If one end of stitch is pulled then whole sewing will be opened.
 The appearance of face and back are different in apparel.

Sub-Classes:
a). 101:
Feature:
Uses temporary purposes which can easily pick up.

Fig. Single thread chain stitch

Uses: It is used for blasting of blazer (temporary stitching). e.g. Blazer

components joining before final sewing to cooperate sewing.

b). 103 (Blind Stitch):

Feature:
Front side is invisible and back side is like chain.
Upper Side

Bottom Side

Uses: Bottom hemming of dress pants.

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2. Stitch Class-200 (Hand stitch):

Features:
 Hand stitch is passed completely from one side to the other.
 Hand stitch is originally made by hand but now can be formed by sewing
machine.
 The appearance of face and back are same.

Uses:
 Hand stitch is used for decorative purposes.
 It is specially used in collar, pocket, front placket, shoulder etc.

Sub-Classes:
a) 202(Hand Stitch): This type of stitch is formed by hand.
Fig. Hand stitch
b) 209: This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’.
Uses: Top stitch lapel of blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc.

Saddle stitch:
A special type of stitch which is formed by pique stitch machine using thick
thread. It is used in Cowboy jeans.

3. Stitch Class 300 (Lock stitch):

Features:
 This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads one set is called
needle thread and another set is called looper thread.
 Seam security extremely high.
 Face and back has same appearance.
 The stitch is difficult to pick up.

Disadvantages:
 Very poor elasticity.
 Bobbin thread required frequently changing.
Fig. Lock stitch

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Sub-Classes:

a) 301(Lock stitch): Needle thread (Upper part)

Bobbin thread (Lower part)

Uses: All kind of top stitching in garments.

b) 304(Zig-zag stitch):
Needle Thread

Bobbin Thread

Uses: To attach elastic and lace in the garments.

4. Stitch Class 400 (Multi-thread chain stitch).

Features:
 This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads one set is called
needle thread and another set is called looper thread.
 One side of stitch is like lock stitch and other side is like chain.
 Elasticity is good.
 It is widely used for making knitted garments.

Disadvantages:
 Seam security is not strong.

Sub-Classes:

a) 401: 1Needle + 1Looper

Upper Side

Bottom Side
Uses: Waist band of jeans, inseam of jeans.

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 b) 406: 2Needle + 1Looper
Upper Side

Fabric

Bottom Side

Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt and Polo-shirt.

c) 407: 3Needle + 1Looper

Upper Side

Fabric

Bottom Side

Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt and Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs.

Hemming:
The process of sewing of an edge or border on a piece of cloth, especially a
finished edge, as for a garment or curtain, made by folding an edge under and
stitching it down. e.g. Bottom edge of a shirt.

5. Stitch Class-500 (Over lock stitch or over edge neatening):

Features:
 This type of stitch is used to prevent the fraying out of loose yarns of the
edge of fabric.
 It requires more than two threads.
 It is used for making knitted garments.

503 504 514 515 516

401.503 401.504
1N + 1L 1N + 2L 2N + 2L
1N 1L 1N 1L 1N 1L 1N 2L

Uses: Only Uses: Edging Uses: Edging Uses: Edging & sewing. These stitches
for edging. and light and heavy are lightly extensible.
seaming. seaming.

N.B: 503,504,514 are British Standard & 515 & 516 (Combination Stitch) are US
Standard.

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6. Stitch Class-600 (Covering chain stitch):

Features:
 This type of stitch is formed by 4 sets of thread 2 sets thread is called
needle thread and another 2 sets are top and bottom covering threads or
looper threads.
 This stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid, elastic
etc.

Sub-Classes:

a) 602: 2Needle + 2Looper

Upper Side

Fabric

Bottom Side

Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt and decorative purpose.

b) 605: 3Needle + 2Looper

Upper Side

Fabric

Bottom Side

Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt& Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs and
decorative purpose.

c) 606: 4Needle + 5Looper

Uses: Not used in our country.

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Type of seam:
Arrangement of fabric ends of the seam line is called seam type. They are
classified into following types-
1. Seam Class-1(Super imposed seam)
2. Seam Class-2 (Lapped seam)
3. Seam Class-3 (Bound seam)
4. Seam Class-4 (Flat seam)
5. Seam Class-5 (Decorative seam)
6. Seam Class-6 (Edge Neatening)
7. Seam Class-7(Applied seam)
8. Seam Class-8(Others seam)

1. Seam Class-1 (Super imposed seam):

Features:
 Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing
together.
 Most commonly used.
 The fabric ends are in same direction.
 This class seam can be sewn a variety of machine.
e.g. Lock stitch or over lock machine.

Fig: Super imposed seam

Uses: Mostly used inside seam like as shirt and pants.

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2. Seam Class-2 (Lapped seam):

Features:
 This type of seam is achieved with two or more pieces of fabric over
lapping each other.
 Two sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction.
 Mostly two needle chain stitch machine is used.
 Seam under this class is very strong.

Fig: Lapped seam

Uses: Inside seams of jeans and dress shirts, Lungi etc.

3. Seam Class-3 (Bound seam):

Features:
 A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of
another piece of fabric.
 The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.
 Sometime used as decorative purpose.
 There are 18 variations of bound seam.

Fig: Bound seam

Uses: Neckline of a T-shirt, Yoke joint in the shirt, waist band, underwear.

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4. Seam Class-4 (Flat seam):

Features:
 Flat seam are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely
of their edges.
 Seam thickness is comparatively less.
 Zig-zag stitch may be produced.
 Edge should be cleaned before sewing to avoid tearing
 Lock stitch is used for form this seam type.

Fig: Flat seam

Uses: Intensively used in under garments in knitwear.

5. Seam Class-5 (Decorative seam):

Features:
 This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in
one or more layer of fabric.
 Multi needle sewing machine is used.
 Seam under this class are produced only for decorative purpose.

Fig: Decorative seam

Uses: Used in pant or other dresses and decorative garments.

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43
6. Seam Class-6 (Edge Neatening):
Features:
 Seam under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends
from out area cannot come out during use.
 It can be used extensively.
 It can be made by overlock machines.

Fig: Edge Neatening

Uses: Mostly used in knitted garments and hemming.

7. Seam Class-7 (Applied seam):

Features:
 These are sometimes called applied seam because they are mainly used to
a decorative material to an edge of seam such as lace, elastic.

Elastic
Fig: Seam Class-7

8. Stitch Class-8 (Others seam):

Features:
 Mainly one piece of fabric used.
 This class is commonly used for waist belt and belt loop.
 The edge of fabric are sewn by folding in various ways.

Fig: Seam Class-8

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 Sewing Threads
Types of Sewing thread being used in the garments industry of Bangladesh:
1. Polyester Corespun Thread.
2. Spun Polyester Thread.
3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread.
4. Textured Polyester Thread.
5. Polyester Cotton Corespun Thread.
6. Trilobal Polyester Thread.

1. Polyester Corespun Thread:

This is more costly thread. This type of thread is produced by spinning staple
polyester fibre around a core of high tenacity continuous filament polyester in
yarn-spinning operation. Two or more of these composite yarns are then twisted
together to give the necessary size and tensile strength.
e.g. Epic(Coats).

Staple polyester

Core polyester filament

Key Characteristics:
 Exceptionally strong.
 The continuous filament core (Having high tenacity) provides superior
strength while the staple polyester cover helps to protect the inner core
from damage due to needle heat.
 Its resistance to abrasion helps ensure long seam life in a wide variety of
materials.
 Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without compromising on
strength, thereby avoiding problems like seam pucker.

Uses: Mainly used in topstitching of shirts, blouses, trousers, sportswear, jeans

& work clothes.

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2. Spun Polyester Thread:
Staple polyester fibres are spun into polyester yarn. Then two or more of spun
polyester yarns are twisted together to produce spun polyester thread.
e.g. Astra (Coats).

Key Characteristics:
 High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high
abrasion resistance.
 Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.

Uses: Mainly for over edging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers,
knitwear, jackets, blouses etc.

3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread:

Normally long staple cotton fibres are spun into cotton yarn. Then two or more
ply of spun cotton yarn are twisted together to produce spun cotton thread.
e.g. dymax (Coats).

Key Characteristics:
 100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and elongation compared
to those in synthetic thread, therefore they need relatively light sewing
tension and high stitch densities.
 Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.
 During sewing, cotton thread is not damaged at high temperature
generated by needle.
 100% cotton thread is mercerized (treatment with caustic solution under
tension) to provide greater luster and higher strength.

Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.

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4. Textured Polyester Thread:
Made from textured continuous polyester filament. (Note- texturing means
modification by applying crimp to the filament).
e.g. Gramax (Coats).

Key features:
 Provides high softness and comfort.
 High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.

Uses: Mainly used in “next to the skin” seams for high softness .e.g. underwear,
swimwear, baby wear etc.
Also widely used in over locking and covering stitches for high extensibility
and seam security.

5. Polyester Cotton Corespun Thread:

Made of polyester filament in the core and staple cotton fibre which wraps
polyester filament. Two or three plies of this yarn are twisted together to make
thread.
e.g. dual duty (Coats).

Key features:

 This thread has been developed to improve the properties cotton and to
get the opportunities of both cotton and polyester fibre.
 Very low shrinkage, good strength and cotton core protects poly core
from needle heat and high ironing temperature.

Uses: fine cotton denim shirts, outdoor wear etc.

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6. Trilobal Polyester thread:
 Newly developed polyester fibre to improve the dullness of usual
polyester fibre.
 Trilobal poly is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous fiber
thread. It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk. Triangular shaped
fibers reflect more light and give an attractive sparkle to textiles.

e.g. sylko(coats).

Uses: embroidery for garment.

Name of Some Thread Manufacturing Company:

International:
 Coats.
 A&E (American & Efrad)

Local:
 Etafil
 Well thread
 Fabian.

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 Thread Count and Ticket Number:
Count:
Count is the numerical value that indicates the fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Example- 30/3, 90/4 etc. Count/Pile No.

Ticket number:
Ticket number is a number to express fineness or coarseness of sewing thread.
Higher ticket number, finer the sewing thread.

Example:
60/3, 90/5 means 60 & 90 yarn count and 3 & 5 no. of ply.
60/3 = 20 = 20 ×3 = 60 (Ticket no.) Here, Red color 3 = constant
90/5 = 18 = 18 ×3 = 54 (Ticket no.)

Formula: Ne = 0.59 × Nm

Where,
Ne = Cotton ticket no.
Nm= Metric ticket no.

Problem:
Cotton of a sewing thread is 60/3 Ne. What will be its metric ticket number?

Solution:
Ne ticket no. = 60 ÷ 3
= 20 × 3
= 60

∴ Metric ticket no,

We know, Ne = 0.59 × Nm
60
=> Nm =
0.59
= 101.69 (Ans)

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 Garment Defects
Garment defects can be separated into 3 categories:

1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these are not caused by the
sewing lines. e.g. running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining
mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc.

2. Workmanship and handling defects:

These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would
include both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be
referred to maintain perfect workmanship.

Note: Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways
of attaching trims, packing etc.

3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing
thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any
kind of trims.

Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and
Minor defects.
a. Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are
the most serious of defects (0%).
b. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain
percentage (3%) depending on buyers requirements.
c. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain
percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements

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Typical Defects:
1. Fabric defects:
Fabric inspection method.

2. Workmanship defect:

a) Seam Puckering:
Refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering
causing an unacceptable seam appearance.
This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing,
improper thread tension, wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability
of the plies of fabric etc.

b) Shading Variations within different parts:

Arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.

c) Open seam or broken seam:

Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread. This
happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments, improper setting and
timing between needle and looper or hook etc.

d) Broken Stitch:
Non-continuous sewing thread. It appears due to improper trimming or machine
usage.

e) Drop stitch/Skipped stitch:

Irregular stitching along the seam. It appears due to improper handling of cut
pieces or machine usage.

f) Wavy/staggered stitching:
Stitches are not straight. It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces ,
faulty feed mechanism , needle deflection or wrong needle.

g) Uncut/ loose thread:

Extra thread or loose thread on seam line. It appears due to improper trimming
or finishing.

h) Sizing defects (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments):

Wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints, measurement
discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern section.

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i) Poor ironing:
If not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if
ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.

j) Misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong

placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing
into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section.

3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

Unmatched color of thread, button and zipper tape, short zippers, faulty zippers,
wrong labels, improper size of the labels, printing mistake of labels and cartons,
broken poly bag , wrong hanger, improper embroideries and prints etc.

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Application of Sewing Machines in Garments Manufacturing:
1. Plain Machine (PM):
Stitch Class-301 (Lock Stitch)
Uses: All kind of top Stitching in garments.

2. Two needle Lock Stitch Machine:

Uses: Out seam of jeans

3. Over Lock Machine (O/L):

Stitch Class: 503(2 thread), 504(3 thread), 514(4 thread), 515(4 thread), 516(5
thread)
Uses: All kind of side seam, arm hole and sleeve.

4. Chain Stitch Machine (CS):

Stitch Class-401
Uses: It is used for sew both knit and woven fabric (Waist band of jeans and
inseam of jeans).

5. Two needle chain stitch machine:

Stitch Class: 401
Uses: Temporary stitching of Basting.

6. Feed of the arm machine:

Stitch Class-401: 2/3 needle feed of the arm machine.
Uses: It is used specially for the sleeve inseam joining and inside seam joining
of the pant or Lapped seam making.

7. Flat Lock/ Inter lock machine:

Stitch Class: 406(3 Thread), 407(4 Thread), 602(4 Thread), 605(5 Thread).
Uses: Bottom & Sleeve hem of T-shirt & polo shirt.

8. Kansani Machine: For multithread needle usage, up to 33 needles can be used.

Stitch class- 400
Uses: Waist band of Jeans, top center of Shirt and Jacket for cuff & waist.

9. Button hole Machine:

Stitch class-100/300
Uses: Button hole making in the apparel.

10. Button attaching Machine:

Chain Stitch-100/300
Uses: Button attaching in the apparel.

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11. Eyelet hole Machine.
Stitch class-100
Uses: Men’s Jeans, Suits, Jackets, Coats button hole.

12. Bar tack Machine:

Stitch class-301
Uses: Bar tack machine is mainly used in pant for belt loop joining, pocket
corner and zipper fly.

13. Blind Stitch Machine:

Stitch Class-103.
Uses: It is used for sew bottom hem of the dress pant.

14. Basting Machine:

Stitch Class-101.
Uses: Temporary stitching (Basting of blazer) for garments assembly.

15. Pocket sewer machine:

Stitch class-
Uses: It is specially used for sew pockets of the coats and blazer.

16. Zig-zag Stitching Machine:

Stitch Class-304.
Uses: To attach elastic and lace in the garments.

17. Pique Stitch Machine:

Stitch Class- 209.
Uses: Top stitch lapel of blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc.

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Some Garments Industrial Sewing Machine Figure:

Fig. Lock Stitch Fig.Over Lock Machine

Machine

Fig.Chain Stitch Machine Fig.Feed of the Arm Machine

Fig.Flat Lock or Inter Lock Machine Fig.Kansai Machine

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 Fig.Button HoleMachine Fig.Eyelet Button Hole Machine

Fig.Button Attaching Sewing Machine Fig.Snap & Shank Button Attaching Machine

Fig.Blind Stitch
Fig.Bar tack
Machine
Machine

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 Fig.Zig-zag Stitching Machine Fig.Pocket Sewer Machine

Fig.Needle (sewing machine)

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Parts of the Sewing Machine:

Bobbin: Holds the lower thread. Bobbin Case: Holds the bobbin.

Bobbin Winder: Put the bobbin to wind Feed Dog: Moves fabric under needle.
thread it.

Feed Dog

Foot Feed/Pedal: Hand Wheel: The hand wheel raises and

Gives power to the machine, electrically. lowers the needle. You must always pull
the hand wheel towards yourself to prevent
tangling of the threads.

Hand Wheel

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Presser Foot Lifter: Needle: Takes thread through the fabric.
 Raises and lowers the presser foot.
 Always have the foot down when sewing.

Presser Foot
Needle
Lifter

Needle Release: Keeps needle from moving Presser Foot: The presser foot holds
while bobbin is filling. Also called Hand the fabric against the feed dogs; so the
Wheel Loosen Knob. feed dogs can pull your fabric through
the machine.

Presser Foot Lifter

Presser
Foot

Reverse Control: Seam Guides:

 Makes the machine sew backward Measure distance from needle while sewing.
 (secures stitching)

Reverse Control Seam Guide

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Spool Pin: Holds spool of thread. Slide Plate: The slide plate is a clear
plastic cover that covers the bobbin
Spool Pin case to keep dust and dirt out of the
moving parts area of the bobbin case.

Slide Plate

Stitch Length Regulator: Stitch Width Control:

 Controls the length of the stitches. Changes machine from straight stitch
 Should be on 2.5 to zig-zag.
Stitch
Width
Control

Stitch Length
Regulator

Take-up Lever: The take-up-lever Tension Unit:

pulls the thread back after each stitch,  Controls looseness or tightness of stitches.
so that the stitches will lay evenly into  Don’t change this!!
the fabric.

Tension Unit

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Thread Guides: Keep thread in place. Throat Plate: Covers area under the needle.

Throat
Plate

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 Pressing
Pressing is the finishing process garments. Sometimes this is refers as ironing.

Object of pressing:
1. To remove crease and crinkles from the garments.
2. To shape and particular parts of the garments.
e.g. front and back part of dress pants, front and back part of blazer.
3. To create permanent creases in the garments.
e.g. permanent pleat in the skirt, lapel of blazer.

Types of pressing:
1. No pressing: Here, pressing is not so necessary.
e.g. specially underwear, swimwear etc.
2. Minimum pressing: Here, pressing is done only by heat but no need
pressure.
e.g. sweater and night gowns.
3. Under pressing: Some parts of the garments are pressed after cutting and
before sewing.
e.g. front and back part of blazer, dress pants are ironed before sewing
etc.
4. Final pressing: This is general pressing to all garments after sewing.
e.g. jacket, trouser, skirt etc.
5. Permanent pressing: Some garments are pressed to create permanent
crease this is called permanent pressing.
e.g. permanent pleat in the skirt, lapel of blazer.

Fig. Pressing Machine

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 Packing into Carton
The garments which are ready to shipment must be packed into carton
according to the buyers requirement. They can be packed into carton according
to the following methods-

1. Solid color solid size: Here, color of garments and size will be same when
packed into carton. The carton contains same color and size.

Example: Color: Yellow

10 pcs/carton
Size: S

2. Solid color assorted size: Here, color of garments will be same but size of
garments will be different when packed into carton. The carton contains same
color and different size.

Example: Ratio: 2 : 1 : 4 : 3
10 pcs/carton
Size: S M L XL

3. Assorted color solid size: Here, color of garments will be different but size
of garments will be same when packed into carton. The carton contains different
color and same size.

Example: Ratio: 2 : 2 : 2 : 2 : 2
10 pcs/carton
Color: W Y R G B

4. Assorted color assorted size: Here, color of garments and size will be
different when packed into carton. The carton contains different color and size.

Example:

Color Size Pcs

Green S 3
10 pcs/carton
Yellow M 3
Blue L 2
Green XL 2

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 Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
Acceptable Quality Level:
The standard definition of Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) is “the maximum
defective percent (or the maximum number of defects per hundred units) that,
for purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process
average”. It is expressed as percentage, .5%, .65% , 1%, 1.5% , 2% , 2.5% , 4%
, 6%. If there are more AQL, there is more flexibility.

Basically, we will randomly select a sampling size quantity (based on the AQL
tables) to be inspected. After inspection according to the number of defects
found (critical, major, minor defects), we will advice to accept or to reject our
shipment from the chart of AQL.

Table A:

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Table B:

Let's take a hypothetical inspection of a 30 000 pieces lot.

• The Table A, under the column level II, gives us the letter M, which
corresponds in the table B to a sampling size of 315 pieces to inspect.
The usual AQL used by people is generally: 0 / 2.5 / 4 for Critical / Major
/ Minor defects. For the letter M, 315 pieces to inspect, the column 2.5 for
defects gives us two numbers: 14 & 15. Thus among a sampling size of
315 pieces inspected, the maximum number of major defects authorized
is 14.

• If we find 15 major defects, you should reject your shipment and / or

perform defect sorting, ask for a re-work of the production or ask for a
replacement of your production. Then you should get your shipment re-
inspected a second time.

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 Fabric (Which are used in garments)
Some fabric structure is given below:

Woven Fabric:
1. Poplin Weave:
133 × 72
 Poplin =
40 × 40
Higher EPI and PPI. Finer Count. Yarn count is more than 30.
Uses: Shirt, blouse, jackets, coats etc.
133 × 72
 Sheeting=
40 × 40
Equal EPI and PPI. Yarn count 20 – 30 Ne.
Uses: Mattress cover and bed sheets.
96 × 76
 Calico=
14 × 14
Yarn count 11 – 20 Ne.
Uses: Bed sheets, apron and light summer clothing.
72 × 48
 Canvas=
7×7
Yarn count 6 – 10 Ne.
Uses: Slip covers, shoe fabrics, boat covers etc.
110 × 76
 Taffeta=
70D × 70
Made by polyester/ Nylon.
Uses: Lining and evening wear.
96 ×72
 Teslan=
70D× 140D
It is also used for lining of blazer. Made by polyester/ nylon but
heavier than taffeta.

 Flannel= Woven fabric and one side of this fabric is brushed.

Uses: Winter Garments (Women’s suits, slacks. skirts and jackets).

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  Chambray = Usually chambray has white yarns in the weft direction
and colored yarns in the warp direction. Used for shirt.

 Ottoman = Warp-faced rib fabric with 3 to 10 ribs per cm for coats,

jackets and furnishings.

Fig : Poplin Weave

2. Oxford/ Basket Weave:

It is usually a 2×1 or 3×2 basket weave. It is most common as a 2×1 half
basket weave. Good quality shirting and blouse fabric made in plain weave but
with two ends weaving as one. Contrasting colors in warp and weft give a
miniature diced pattern.

Fig: Oxford/ Basket Weave.

3. Twill Weave:

 Basic Twill: Normally used in denim fabric. Always 1 down in their

construction. No count variation.
Denim fabric:
a. Basic denim: 3/1 basic denim.
b. Ring denim: Warp count variation.
c. Slub denim: Only warp slub (one way slub) and weft slub (cross slub).
d. Cross hatch: Warp and weft count variation.

 Sateen and Satin: In terms of cotton and rayon respectively.

 Broken Twill: Use in casual jacket and casual pants.

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  Herringbone Twill: Generally term for fabrics woven in a reversing
twill, often with contrasting colors in warp and weft. Used for suits,
costumes and coats.

Fig: Twill Weave

4. Dobby Weave:
It is combination of plain and twill. Normally used for shirt and blouse. To
exemplify its included rib stop fabric which perform box effect.

Fig: Dobby Weave

5. Jacquard Weave:
Fabric with a complicated figured design. Figuring is commonly by
interchanging satin, sateen, plain and twill weaves. Color and yarn effects may
be used to accentuate the design. Used for furnishing fabrics and formal wear.

 Cheek and Plaid fabric:

If repeat size is more than 3×3 in inches then it will be called plaid fabric.
And
If repeat size is less than 3×3 in inches then it will be called check
constructed fabric.

Fig. Jacquard Weave.

Engineering Stripe:
If the repeat length of the stripe is above 4cm then it is called engineering stripe.

Feeder Stripe:
If the repeat length of the stripe is below 4cm then it is called feeder stripe.

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Knit Fabric:
1. Single jersey: Two side of this fabric are different. Used for T-shirt, tank
top, polo–shirt etc. GSM ranges from 120-200.
2. Rib: Both sides are same. Used for ladies item, undergarments etc.
3. Interlock: Both sides are same. Used for ladies item, undergarments etc.
4. Pique fabric: It contains very small size pore in their construction.
Normally used in polo shirt.
5. Lacoste fabric: it also contains pore but bigger than pique. Normally
used in polo shirt.
6. Fleece fabric: In knit fabric fleece may be two types.
i. Terry fleece: Here one side single jersey and other side is brushed.
ii. Polar fleece: Here both sides are brushed.

Fig: T-shirt

Fig: Polo-shirt

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Machine Lay-out of Garment:

M/C lay-out of a Shirt:

1. Single needle plain machine (PM):

 For joining collar, cuff, collar band, yoke, pocket and label.

2. Two needle plain m/c:

 For top stitching of front and back part and arm hole.

3. Over lock (5 thread)/ 5 OL:

 For side seam and sleeve joining.

4. Kansai Special:
 Box pleat or multi-needle sewing, bottom & cuff with elastic in jacket.

M/C lay-out of a Pant:

1. Single needle plain machine (PM):

 Waist band joining, belt loop joining, side seam and inseam top stitch,
zipper fly joining, zipper joining, side pocket joining, bottom hem.

2. Two needle plain m/c:

 Front and back rise top stitch, side seam/ inseam top stitch of denim.

3. Over lock (3 thread)/ 3 OL:

 Front and back rise

4. Over lock (5 thread)/ 5 OL:

 For inseam and side seam; side pocket making.

5. Bar tack m/c:

 Belt loop and bottom of fly zipper.

6. Flat lock m/c:

 For loop making.
7. Button whole, button attaching m/c and eyelet hole m/c for denim.
8. Chain stitch m/c:
 Normally used in waistband of denim

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M/C lay-out of a T-shirt

1. Over lock (3 OL/4 OL)

 Sleeve joining, side seam and neck (rib) joining.

2. Flat lock m/c (2N+1 L) Stitch Class-406

 For sewing sleeve and bottom hem.

3. Single needle plain m/c (PM)

 For top stitching of shoulder, sleeve and neck.

4. Feed of the arm/ back tape m/c (2N+2L) Double stitch class- 406.
 For joining tape inside neck or shoulder or outside neck.

M/C lay-out of a Polo-shirt:

1. Single needle plain m/c:

 For tops in (top stitching), rib cuff joining, collar joining.

2. Flat lock m/c:

 For joining arm hole, shoulder and bottom& sleeve hem.

3. Over lock (4 OL):

 Sleeve and side seam joining.

4. Button hole and button attaching m/c.

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Sewing Flow Chart of T-Shirt Manufacturing:
In apparel manufacturing industry; various types of apparel are manufactured
according to the buyer requirement. After getting an order, bulk production run
in the garments. Among all of the apparel manufacturing techniques, T-Shirt
manufacturing is simplest one. Although its sewing sequence is differ from the
Polo-Shirt.

Sewing operation of T-Shirt is done as the following sequence -

Number matching front 2 back pant (back on pant on upper side)
↓
Solder stitching (By over lock m/c)
↓
Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)
↓
Neck rib sewing by plain m/c
↓
Neck rib joins with body pant
↓
Neck top sin
↓
Solder to solder back tip
↓
Size label sewing
↓
Solder to solder back top sin
↓
Sleeve marking ad number matching with body parts.
↓
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
↓
Sleeve joint with the body part

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 ↓
Side sewing and care label joint
↓
Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)
↓
Bottom hem sewing
↓
Arm bottom hem joint
↓
Inspection

So, after inspection of the T-Shirt, it is ready for sale in the market.

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73
Sewing Flow Chart of Polo-Shirt Manufacturing:
Polo-Shirt is one of the stylist apparels in the world. This type of shirt could be
made of cotton or synthetic fibers. Its sewing operation is done with great care.
It is near similar to T-Shirt. After passing the cutting section, different cut parts
are assembled in the sewing section by sewing operation.

Sewing operation of Polo-Shirt is done as the following sequence -

Lining joint with collar part by heat pressing
↓
Collar marking for open stitch
↓
Collar inside open stitch
↓
Collar marking
↓
Collar ¼ top sin
↓
Collar cutting
↓
Band Rolling
↓
Band joint with Collar
↓
Band top sin 1/6
↓
Placket lining
↓
Placket marking
↓
Placket Rolling
↓
Placket joint
↓

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 Placket top sin 1/6
↓
Placket Pattern top sin
↓
Placket pattern top sin 1/6
↓
Box Sewing
↓
Pocket Rolling
↓
Pocket iron
↓
Pocket marking
↓
Pocket joint with body
↓
Yoke joint with back part
↓
Yoke ¼ top sin
↓
Back & front part matching number
↓
Solder joint
↓
Solder top sin
↓
Collar marking
↓
Collar & body number matching
↓
Collar joint with body part
↓
Collar top sin in jointing point
↓
Sleeve marking
↓
Sleeve over locked
↓
Sleeve Rolling
↓
Sleeve pair matching
↓
Sleeve & body matching

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 ↓
Sleeve body tuck
↓
Sleeve joint with body part
↓
Sleeve marking for batch
↓
Sleeve batch joint (left & right side)
↓
Body marking for batch
↓
Batch joint with body part
↓
Label make
↓
Label Iron
↓
Main label joint in back side
↓
Sleeve opening tuck
↓
Body hem sewing
↓
Care label sewing
↓
Side joint
↓
Band tuck
↓
Band tape joint
↓
Band top sin
↓
Sleeve chap tuck
↓
Inspection

In apparel manufacturing technology, Polo-shirt manufacturing is great one.

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76
Sewing Flow Chart of Trouser (Jeans pant) Manufacturing:
Trouser or Jeans are the newest fashion of the world. Most of the people in most
of the states are interested to wear jeans Pant. Different types of jeans are
manufactured in the apparel industry. Various types of finishes are applied to
the jeans product to increase its popularity. Any types of defects can be the
cause of rejection of the product, for this reason extra care is required to
maintain in every stages of the manufacturing.

Sewing operation of Jeans Pant is done as the following sequence -

Number matching back & front pant
↓
Back rise & Front rise joint
↓
Pocket facing joint with pocket part by over lock m/c
↓
Pocket part sewing by over lock m/c
↓
Pocket tracing joint by plain m/c
↓
Top stitch pocket with pocket facing
↓
To sin Zigzag (pocket Rolling)
↓
Pocket marking by catalog & scissor
↓
Number matching pocket & body part
↓
Pockets tuck (2 end side of the pocket)
↓
Pocket joint with the body part
↓
Pocket top sin (Zig Zag)
↓
Back & front matching (number)
↓

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 Side sewing of the trouser
↓
Side top sin (Zig Zag )
↓
In side sewing by over lock
↓
Elastic tuck for waist belt
↓
Eye lot at middle point of the belt
↓
Rib tucks sewing for belt
↓
Elastic cutting at size wise
↓
Elastic + Rib (belt) tuck
↓
Belt surfacing
↓
Belt & body tuck
↓
Belt & body joint
↓
Label joint
↓
Top sin belt joining point
↓
Bottom hem sewing
↓
Dosting cutting & fielding
↓
Dosting tuck
↓
Supporting tuck on bottom hem & belt top sin
↓
Pocket Eye lot snap button M/C
↓
Inspection

So, choose your favorite jeans pant or trouser for use.

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Some Important Terms:
DTM (Dye to Match):
Accessories with fabric color are same called DTM.
For example-
 Sewing thread DTM: Fabric color and sewing thread color will be same.
 Button DTM: Fabric color and button color will be same.

Lab dip:
Develop any color in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer
for approval. Metal button is not applicable for lap dip.
Yarn dip:
Develop yarn color in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer
for approval. Yarn dip is done before yarn dyeing.
Strike off:
Develop print in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer for
approval.
Art work:
Develop embroidery in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer
for approval.
Hand Loom:
Develop repeat size of stripe and check fabric in lab by a small hand loom
according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer for approval.

Penton Number:
Penton Number is the code of color which is used for shade matching.

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Care Labeling Code:
Garments become dirty during end-use and it natural truth. These dirty garments
are re-used by cleaning and ironing. For perfect caring of garments, some
instructions are expressed by symbols which are called care code. The label in
which, the care codes of a garments are placed called care label code. There are
generally five types of instructions are used in a care label which are
internationally recognized, called international care labeling code. The
instructions are given below-
1. Washing instructions.
2. Bleaching instructions.
3. Ironing instructions.
4. Dry cleaning instructions.
5. Drying instructions.

Symbols of International Care Label Codes are the following-

Washing Condition.

Chlorine Bleaching Condition.

Ironing Condition.

Dry Cleaning Condition.

Drying Condition.

On the above five code each have individual state which are described briefly
on the following:

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1. Washing instructions:
Washing is any cleaning operation done in water or water containing detergents,
alkalis or builders. There are many washing instructions are depends on the
fabric and garments as follows-
Symbol Washing Process
This symbol means that the item
should be washed at 30ºC.
This symbol means that the item
should be washed at 60ºC.
This symbol means that the item
should be washed at 95ºC.
This symbol means that the item
should be hand washed only. The
temperature should not be above 40ºC.
This symbol means that the item
should not be washed, at least not
using domestic washing techniques.

2. Bleaching instructions:
Bleaching is a process of whitening the fabrics by removing the natural coloring
matters. The material may be treated with chemicals or exposed to sun, air
and/or moisture. There are so many bleaching instructions are done depends on
the fabric and garments as follows-
Symbol Process
Chlorine bleach is allowed.

Chlorine bleach is not allowed.

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3. Ironing instructions:
Ironing is a manual method of pressing fabrics and garments with a heated hand
iron, sometimes with moisture. There are so many ironing instructions are done
depends on the fabric and garments as follows-
Symbol Process
This symbol means that the item
should be ironed at a low temperature
(1100c).

This symbol means that the item

should be ironed at a medium
temperature (1500c).

This symbol means that the item

should be ironed at a high temperature
(2000c).

This symbol means that the item

should not be ironed.

4. Dry cleaning instructions:

It is the process of cleaning fabrics with organic solvents (chlorinated
hydrocarbons or mineral spirits) to remove dirt and some types of stains. In
commercial dry cleaning some water is included with the organic solvents.
There are so many dry cleaning instructions are done depends on the fabric and
garments as follows-

Symbol Process
Dry cleaning is allowed in any types of
solvent.
Para-Chloro-Ethylene, white spirit,
solvent-113 and solvent-11 can be
used.
White spirit of solvent-113 can be
used.
Can not be dry cleaned.

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5. Drying condition instructions:
The conditions on which fabrics or garments are dried is called drying
condition. There are so many drying condition instructions are done depends on
the fabric and garments as follows-
Symbol Process
This symbol means that the tumble
drying is allowed.

This symbol means that the tumble

dryer can be used at a low temperature.

This symbol means that the tumble

dryer can be used at a normal
temperature.

This symbol means that the tumble

drying is not allowed.

This symbol means natural drying.

This symbol means line drying. The

garment can/should be hung on a
clothes line to dry.

This symbol means that the item

should be dried in a state parallel to the
ground but can be hanged.

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 Symbol Process
This symbol means that the item needs
to be drip dried.

This symbol means that the item

should be dried in the shade.

This symbol means that the item

should be line dried in the shade.

This symbol means that the item

should be dried flat in the shade.

This symbol means that the item

should drip dried in the shade.

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