Table of Contents:

Executive summary............................................................................................................................................ ...01

1 Introduction........................................................................................................................................................ 02

1.1 Importance of RMG sector in Bangladesh......................................................................................................02

1.2 Natural and type of linkages between RMG sector and Bangladesh economy..............................................03

1. 3 Purpose of the exercise...................................................................................................................................04

1.4 Organization of the report............................................................................................................................... 05

2. Backward linkages of RMG sector................................................................................................................... 05

2.1 Concept of backward linkages........................................................................................................................ 05

2.2 Different stages in garment manufacturing.....................................................................................................06

2.3 Yarn making.................................................................................................................................................... 07

2.4 Weaving...........................................................................................................................................................08

2.5 Garment making.............................................................................................................................................. 09

2.6 Manufacturing of garment accessories........................................................................................................... 11

3. Forward linkages............................................................................................................................................... 11

3.1 Foreign exchange earning............................................................................................................................ ...11

3.2 Employment generation............................................................................................................................... ...12

3.3 Source of income.............................................................................................................................................13

3.4 Growth of various RMG related economic activities.................................................................................. ...13

3.5 Poverty alleviation...........................................................................................................................................14

3.6 Social development...................................................................................................................................... ...14

4. Major challenges facing the RMG sector...................................................................................................... ...15

4.1 COVID-19.................................................................................................................................................... ...15

4.2 Loss of market.............................................................................................................................................. ...15

4.3 Competition with other countries....................................................................................................................16

4.3 Automation................................................................................................................................................... ...16

4.3 Import restrictions in major countries.............................................................................................................16

5. Summary and conclusions.................................................................................................................................17

References.......................................................................................................................................................... ...18

Appendices......................................................................................................................................................... ...20
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
RMG industry is the backbone of our economy. RMG industry are playing the role of
a two-edged knife in our economy. Without their contribution, our GDP will go down
by so far. This sector has contributed huge to boost up the wealth and prosperity for
the country. Apart from contributing to our economy, this sector also create a huge
employment opportunity, help our social development and reduce poverty.
Ready Made Garment has been making crucial contribution in rebuilding the
economy of Bangladesh. Almost 83% of the total export earning of the country come
from this sector. Our garment (RMG) sector has raised as the biggest exporting
industry of the country. It creates almost 4.5 million employment opportunities and
influence significantly to our GDP. Within very short period of time, RMG industry
has attained a high profile in terms of foreign exchange earnings, industrialization,
exports and contribution to our GDP. This sector also help to create international
relationship over the year. The backward linkages and forward linkages also have
huge positive impact on our economy. We need to develop both the backward and
forward linkages to ensure more sustainability in RMG sector. This study has
conducted to identify the impact of RMG sector in our economy, know about
backward and forward linkages in details. We have also discussed about impact of
COVID-19 in this sector.

1
1. Introduction
1.1 Importance of RMG sector in Bangladesh
Ready Made Garment plays a crucial role in the total economy of our country. This
sector started its journey in 1980s and since then, it did not require for looking back.
Ready Made Garment has been making crucial contribution in rebuilding the
economy of Bangladesh. For Bangladesh, it is the single biggest export earner right
now. Almost 83% of the total export earning of the country come from this sector.
Within very short period of time, RMG industry has attained a high profile in terms of
foreign exchange earnings, industrialization, exports and contribution to our GDP.

Graph 1: Number of garment factories in Bangladesh

The RMG industry also plays a vital role in solving the unemployment. This sector is
creating a huge employment plat form for our unemployed people. Besides, this sector
has created a break through regarding women employment in the industrial sector.
The industry has also created employment for almost two million people and among
them 70 percent are women. These female worker’s has contributed to this sector to
be the highest export earner industry of the country. Thus, this sector has contributed
in our social development, women empowerment as well as poverty alleviation.

2
The important roles of RMG sector in our country are:
1. Developing our economy
2. Solving unemployment problem
3. Creating women social status
4. Building international relation
5. Developing other key sectors of our economy

1.2 Nature and type of linkages between RMG sector and Bangladesh economy
Our garment (RMG) sector has raised as the biggest exporting industry of the country.
It creates almost 4.5 million employment opportunities and influence significantly to
our GDP. This sector is fully powered by young, urbanizing, workers and among
them most are women. According to private statistics there are more than 5000
garment factories in RMG industry but according to BGMEA there are around 4000
garment factories. This industry is creating employment for more than 12 lac and
among them 85% are women.

RMG industry contributes a lot in our GDP, exports and conversion of our
development. This sector contributes to the national economy in considerable rate.
About $30bn goods were exported in 2017, which made up 83% of exports and 12%
of GDP, higher than any other industry.

Graph 2: Total Export Of RMG of Bangladesh

3
There are two types of linkage.

1. Backward linkage: The RMG sector largely depends on backward linkages that
supply it myriad items. Some of the backward linkages are textile, dyeing, packaging,
trim and accessories, apparel labels, and services such as washing, printing and
embroidery.

RMG sector requires sufficient internal supply of its raw materials to achieve strong
growth and backward linkage industry can do the job. But unfortunately, we do not
have any strong industrial exposure and as a result this sector could not get sufficient
support from backward linkage industry.

2. Forward linkage: Forward linkage means the activities which help the business to
move forward. This plays a vital role to expand global RMG business in Bangladesh.
Elements of forward linkages are government support, marketing, education, research
and development, research and demand analysis, training, foreign employee, product
quality, individual design and to create demand, mutual relations , after sales service
etc.

Because of the lack of forward linkages, the sector is facing many challenges day by
day to sustain in business. This sector has not any well organized research and
development section and also have no grander marketing strategy.

1.3 Purpose of the exercise

Purpose of the study can act as the bridge between the starting point and the goals of
the study.

The purpose of the exercise is to know the linkages between ready made garment
sector and the Bangladesh Economy. The specific objectives of the exercise is to
know -

 Importance of RMG sector in Bangladesh

 Impact of RMG sector in our economy

 About the backward and forward linkage

 Different stages in manufacturing

 How RMG sector help to remove unemployment and develop our economy

 Effect of COVID-19 in RMG sector

4
1.4 Organization of the report

In this report we have try to find out the importance of RMG industry in our country’s
economy.

First, we have a specific objective on which we have prepared this report. Then we
have collected information and data from the internet to prepare the report. Finally,
we gather all the information together to prepare this report perfectly.

The study contains importance of RMG sector in our economy, forward linkages and
backward linkages of RMG sector, effect of COVID-19 in RMG sector.

2. Backward linkages of RMG sector

2.1 Concept of backward linkages

Backward linkage is the relationship of an industry or institution with its supply chain.
When an industry’s product of output requires substantial intermediate inputs from
many other industries within the same study area, then we can understand that this
industry has significant backward linkages.

It plays major part of a garment industry to reduce lead time and offer competitive
price in the international market. Our country must depend on backward linkage
conditions, support, and strategy formulation to be successful in this sector.

Everyone knows that the RMG industry is the key contributor our economy, but
nobody is concerned that the sector largely depends on an upstream supply chain of
backward linkages that supply it myriad items.

The backward linkage industries do not get national debate and media coverage as
like the RMG sector though this industry plays a pivotal role in the sustenance of
RMG sector. For this reason, government or international agencies do not give
attention to the backward linkages of RMG.

According to the statement of BGAPMEA there are a huge non-member operators in

the area and in terms of employment, value addition, and contribution to the economy,
the actual size of the industry are much greater than what is captured in statistics.

The officials of the state that there are many non-member operators in the area, and
therefore the actual size of the industry in terms of employment and value addition,
and contribution to the economy. Independent traders who act as suppliers to the

5
RMG factories even though do not own a manufacturing outfit, also provides
livelihood by this sector.

There are almost 2,800 non-member factories in the backward linkage sector.
Therefore, the contribution of the textile and cognate manufacturing operations to our
economy is quite significant.

2.2 Different stages in garment manufacturing

The production of garment production is an organized activity which consist of

sequential process including laying, marking, cutting, stitching, checking, finishing,
pressing and packaging. It is a process of turning raw materials into finished goods. If
the production is not up to the mark and pre-production phase of preparation of
material is not properly carried out, it will be difficult to maintain the industry.

Different stages in garment manufacturing are:

 Fabrics Receiving and Relaxing

 Form Layout and Cutting

 Fabrics Laying

 Fabrics Marking

 Fabric Cutting

 Embroidering and Screen Printing

 Sewing

 Checking and Laundry

 Fussing and pressing

 Packaging and shipping

The whole process of the finished garment can be described in three major steps:

I. Converting fibers/cottons to yarns

II. Converting yarns to Grey fabrics

III. Converting Grey fabrics to dyed, printed of other finished goods

6
 Fibers/cottons Yarns Grey fabrics Finished
Spinning weaving or knitting dyeing, printing, finishing

Flow chart 1: Process from fibers/cottons to finished goods

2.3 Yarn making

Yarn making is a process which convert raw cotton fibers into yarn which is suitable
for use in various finished products. In modern textile markets. it requires a number of
processes to obtain the clean, string, uniform yarns.

The main raw material for yarn production is cotton but the profit margin of cotton
production in Bangladesh is very low. So, we have to depend on the imported cotton
from other countries such as India, Pakistan, China, Turkey, USA. These countries are
the main sources of cotton for us. Our country is going backward for some reasons
such as gas price hike, high bank interest, wage hike, recent devaluation, etc.

Yarn consumption has declined from local spinners despite of higher demand. The
sustainability of our RMG sector will not be strengthened with a 50-50 mix of
imported yarn and local yarn consumption.

A number of processes are required to obtain yarn. Competitive pressure continues to

seek new, more efficient methods and machines to process cotton. The manufacturing
process produces yarns for various woven or knitted finished products and for sewing
thread. Yarn are produced with the different diameters and weights per unit length.
Processing speeds of yarn manufacturing has increased even though basic yarn
manufacturing process has remained unchanged for a number of years.

Yarn manufacturing processes:

 Opening, blending, mixing and cleaning

 Carding and combing

 Drawing and roving

 Spinning

 Winding and spooling

 Waste handling

7
2.4 Weaving

Weaving is the next stage where yarn are converted into fabrics. Fabric which cost the
75 percent of the garment cost, is the main material for making garment products.
Though both hand looms and power looms are suitable for our industry, a large
demand of quality fabrics can not prepared by hand loom production.

To fulfill the demand for domestic and export market, Bangladesh weaving mills need
a high volume of yarn production. The weaving industry need to increase the
production capacity to fill these huge demands. But unfortunately, our country is 20%
self-sufficient in terms of weaving input supply.

Woven cloth is much longer in one direction than the other one. The lengthwise
threads are known as warp and the other threads are known as weft which is
combined with the warp and lie width wise.

Image: the three basic motion of weaving

The sequence of primary operations in one weaving cycle is:

 Shedding

 Picking, and

 Beating

In weaving cloth, the warp is separated from a short length extending from the cloth
before a length of weft is inserted in the warp and it is known as shedding. Then a
pick of weft is laid between the two sheets which is known as picking. Finally, a new
shed is formed with the weave structure. In such way the weft is clasped between two
layers of warp.

8
A further process called beating in is required to push the pick to the desired position
away from the last one inserted as it is impossible to lay the weft close to the junction
of the warp and the cloth already woven.

2.5 Garment making

The basic flow chart of garment making is given below

Design

Pattern making

Production pattern making

Grading

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Fabric cutting

Cutting parts sorting or bundling

Sewing

Garments Inspection

Garments Ironing and Finishing

Final Inspection

Garments Packing

Cartooning

Shipment

Flow chart 2: Garment making

Design: It is given by buyer and they send the technical sheet and art work of an order
after placing an order.

Pattern making: The pattern of every garment style should be made by following the
technical sheet and art-work,. It can be done both manually or by using a
computerized method.

9
Fit sample making: It is a sample which send to the buyer to rectify if the product is
acceptable or not.

Production pattern making: This can be done both manually and by using the
computer. Allowance is added here with net dimension for bulk production.

Grading: While order confirmation, the buyer suggests the size ratio of the product,
so that order should be graded accordingly.

Marker making: It is a very thin paper which contains all the parts of a particular
garment. This process must be done to make the cutting process easy.

Fabric spreading: Fabric is spread inlay form to cut the fabric properly.

Fabric cutting: According to the marker of garments fabrics have to cut here.

Cutting parts sorting or bundling: To send these easily into the next process,
cutting parts have to sort out or make bundling . It is done manually.

Sewing: To make a complete garment, all the parts of a garment are joined here . This
process is also done manually.

Garments inspection: To make fault free garments, inspection should be done after
completing sewing.
Garments ironing and finishing: In this step garments are treated by steam and also
any requirements to finish should be completed here.

Final inspection: The final inspection is done here manually according to the buyer’s
specification.
Garments packing: By using the buyer’s instructed poly bag, complete garments are
packed here . It is done by using the manual method.

Cartooning: All the garments have to be cartooned by maintaining buyers’

instruction to minimize the damages of garments.

Shipment: The finished good is sent to the buyer after completing all the required
processes.

10
2.6 Manufacturing of garment accessories

The materials that are not attached to the body of clothing by sewing and only used
for garments finishing and packing are known as accessories. Different types of
garment accessories are collar stand, carton, carton sticker, safety sticker, hanger,
backboard, neck board, collar stays, butterfly, patch, gum tape, price ticket, poly-bag,
safety pin, tag pin, brass pin, buckle, tissue paper etc.

Garments accessories and packaging sector has a significant effect to boost up the
RMG industry of Bangladesh. According to BGAPMEA ( Bangladesh Garments
Accessories & Packaging Manufacturers & Exporters Association), almost all the
requirements of garments accessories and packaging are being met up that is about to
95%.

Our country is also producing and exporting garment accessories like woven labels,
stone and metal motifs, rubber patches, price tags, buttons, zippers, leather badges etc.
More than 34 types of products are supplied by the accessory makers and packagers in
the RMG sector with proper policy support and financial incentives. During the
financial year 2017-2018, this sector earned valuable foreign exchange to the tune of
US $7.10 billion.

Even though our country is producing garment accessories, apparel manufacturers

choose international market for sourcing accessory because of lower price. The reason
of high price of our garment accessories are high price of raw materials and delaying
of import.

3, Forward Linkages

3.1 Foreign exchange earning

The main source of foreign exchange earning in Bangladesh is ready made garments.
After China, Bangladesh held the second position in exporting ready made garments.
During the October-December in 2017, export earnings from RMG sector increased
by 6.78% than the previous quarter of July-September. Almost 83% of the country’s
total export earnings are from RMG sector which is $9253.29 million.

11
BGMEA have set a target to achieve US$ 50 billion within 2021 from RMG export.
To reach that target elements of forward linkages like government support, research
and development, marketing, research and demand analysis, education, , training,
foreign employee, product quality, individual design etc. will help.

3.2 Employment generation

Ready made garments create jobs for over four million people and this can be turned
into an advantage by marshaling resources, ideas, and investment that can be pumped
in to make the industry best in the world.

Our RMG industry has undergone the most wide-reaching and ambitious safety led by
the Bangladesh Accord for Fire and Building Safety and Alliance for Bangladesh
Worker Safety since April 2013. Thousands of garment factories have been inspected
by experts and now many of these action plans have been completed. Bangladesh is
now boasts the safest garment production industry in the world though there is still
minor percentage to be done.

The RMG and textile industry have been the biggest employment generator in our
country. It is estimated RMG and textile industry generate almost 45 lakh
employment together of the 6.08 crore total workforce of the country. Though there is
no comprehensive study is made to know the exact amount of employment in this
sector till now, the figure is provided by BGMEA based on the initial information
provided by their members that can be different from reality. According to a survey
conducted by the CPD (Centre for Policy Dialogue), in Bangladesh there are 3,596
active RMG factories with almost 35 lac workers, among them 39.2% are male and
60.8% are female.

The best thing is women are not only involve in worker or helper level positions, but
they are also involved in supervisor level to the top-level positions. But surprisingly,
according to the survey conducted by the CPD, female workers are decreasing due to
the automation of manufacturing.

12
3.3 Source of income

Our RMG sector plays a key role in the development of our economical condition.
This sector has huge contribution to our GDP. According to BGMEA, in fiscal year
2017-2018, the RMG sector’s contribution to GDP was 11.17%. In fiscal year 2018,
the total GDP of Bangladesh was TK 22,504,793 million where RMG sector’s
contribution was TK 2,513,471 million.

In 2019, more than 84% of export income came from RMG sector of the total export
income. Among the total export earnings of Bangladesh in fiscal year 2018-2019,
RMG exports has contributed $34.13 billion. The RMG exports added additional 10
billion dollars in the export basket in last 5 years which means growing at a rate on
average 2 billion each year. Though the growth rate is impressive but it is too
optimistic to reach 50 billion mark by 2021, a target set by the government.

3.4 Growth of various RMG related economic activities

Despite its huge contribution to our economy, the growth of RMG sector is increasing
day by day. Because of its growth, there is also a positive impact on the other sector
that are directly or indirectly related with it.

Spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing & chemical sectors are adding value in our
economy with the increasing of garments sector. PTS fulfilled 90% yarn demand for
knit RMG & 35-40% for woven RMG.

Before, we had to import fabrics, trims, chemicals, accessories, etc. from abroad, but
with the vast growth of the RMG sector, now we have our own knitting sector, yarn
sector, chemical sector, accessories sector, and so on. The growth of RMG sector has
also a positive impact on the growth of financial sector in Bangladesh. Both garments
& textile sectors flourishes with the help of letter of credits(L/C).

This sector has an immense contribution to Insurance services. Every year on an

average, 6 million dollars are paid to the insurance companies by RMG sector. The
growth of this sector also has huge positive impact on shipping and logistics,
transport & communication, engineering & utility, hotel, real estate & tourism as well
as in other business sector.

13
3.5 Poverty alleviation

This sector is creating a huge chance for employment which help to reduce poverty.
There are almost 5,000 ready made garments factories and there are almost 4 million
workers. With the growth of garment sector, Bangladesh has made strong headway in
reducing poverty. In fact since 1991, it has more than halved the percentage of people
living under the $1.90 poverty line.

This sector creates a huge employment opportunity for the women which accelerate
our economy. After getting employment in the garment industry, women are now able
to ensure sustainable livelihood. In apparel employ more than 4 million people of
whom 85% are women. Because of this huge employment opportunity, it helps to
reduce our poverty.

3.6 Social Developments

Ready made garments also have impact on social developments. It helps to grow our
economy which improves our life style. It especially help the women to get social
recognized. Because of this sectors, women employment increases a lot and they are
not dependent anymore. Besides, for the benefits of the employees of this sector,
many steps has already taken.

There is a non-formal education program under which help to reduce child labor.
There is also a government project for village garment, under which village people
will also get the chance of employment.

Introducing of new technologies, change in fashion trend, educational improvement,

cultural change also help in our social developments.

14
4. Major Challenges facing the RMG Sector

4.1 COVID-19

Due to COVID-19, our RMG sector face a huge loss. Many international buyers had
canceled their order as their business was also closed in Europe, North America, Asia
or elsewhere. According to BGMEA. $3.16 billion worth of shipments where 1,142
factories were involved affecting 2.26 million workers as of 18th April 2020.

According to a survey, more than 350,000 workers in Bangladesh’s RMG sector have
lost their job and many workers laid off without proper compensation.

Thousands of manufacturing units and service providers were remained out of the
government economic packages and financial incentives coverage. Many smaller
factories have to shut down as orders are being canceled. According to the survey,
almost 232 factories were shut down and among them 180 factories are associated
with BGMEA. The falling demand for apparel puts poor workers at risk, due to the
corona virus pandemic. This will drive women out of the labor force or even increase
wage gaps between men and women.

4.2 Loss of market

Due to the pandemic, our RMG sector face a huge loss both domestically and
internationally. Within the first quarter of 2020, orders received declined by 45.8 per
cent with an 81% contraction in April alone. Due to future order cancellations and
customer refusals to pay for current orders, more than a million garment workers in
Bangladesh have already been dismissed or furloughed. A large number of order
cancellations and the temporary closure of retails shops impacted the market. Even in
Europe the lockdown is still continued and for this our import is declining.

The sector is struggling to function at expected levels, with a long line of canceled
orders, unsold stock, and declining demand. The industry recorded a 14% decline in
growth which is the largest negative growth figure in the last 5 years within the first
ten months of the current financial year (July 2019-April 2020) .

15
4.3 Competition with other countries

The main competitors of Bangladesh are Vietnam, India, Turkey. As of 2019,

Vietnam holds about 6.20% of the global market share for Apparel. By the
finalization of its Free Trade Agreement with the European Union, Vietnam’s strong
showing in RMG can be further boosted . Vietnam will enjoy up to 99% eliminated
tariffs on exports to the EU and on the other side, Bangladesh is struggling to
establish similar free trade agreements or bilateral trade agreements.

India is the largest cotton producer in the world and in tandem with its high output of
cotton, 30% lower than local production costs from India has caused a significant
problem for Bangladesh’s local firms in the apparel sector. Our RMG sector also face
competition from Turkey. Turkey is the 6th largest producers of cotton and their
RMG products basket in 80%. Turkey has also signed multiple free trade agreements
and among them many are with European country. This type of free trade agreements
keep them ahead of us and we have to face a lot more competition.

4.4 Automation

As automation in the industry is gaining traction big changes are afoot in the RMG
sector. We need to preplan and prepare for the automation shifts in the garments
sector. This automation system will ensure quality and cost effective production and it
will bring a positive impact in our economy.

If the country wants to keep up in the competitive market, there is no alternative

choice to opting for digital technology for Bangladesh in the near future. If we do not
invest for automation in the garment industry, we will lag behind.

Because of the rise of automation system, many garment worker may loss their job or
will be paid less. Already, a huge number of workers are losing their job as a result of
automation.

4.5 Import restriction in major countries

Because of import restrictions in many countries, our garment sector is facing a huge
problem. We have to dependent on specific countries and have to purchase raw
material at higher price. Government must take necessary steps to sort out this
problem. For RMG sector, tax free agreement with other country would be a jhuge
support.

16
5. Summary and Conclusion

Our economy is hugely dependable on the RMG industry. Apart from economical
contribution, this sector has also huge impact on our overall development. This sector
is creating employment, reducing poverty as well as bringing new opportunities for us.
Though we are doing well in this sector, but we need to improve a lot for further
growth. Th pandemic has a huge negative impact on this sector. Many has lost their
job and many factories have to shut down.

We need to rethink to overcome this loss. Government should take necessary steps to
overcome the situation. We also need to improve our backward linkages and forward
linkages. If we can develop this sector more, it will create more employment
opportunities and our economy will be more benefited.

17
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19
Appendices

Graph 1

Number of garment factories in Bangladesh from 2010-2019

Graph 2

Total export of RMG of Bangladesh from 2012-2020

20
Flow chart 1

Process from fibers/cottons to finished goods:

Fibers/cottons Yarns Grey fabrics Finished

Spinning weaving or knitting dyeing, printing, finishing

Flow chart 2

Garment making:

Design

Pattern making

Production pattern making

Grading

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Fabric cutting

Cutting parts sorting or bundling

Sewing

Garments Inspection

Garments Ironing and Finishing

Final Inspection

Garments Packing

Cartooning

Shipment

21