Creating a Sustainable Luxury Fashion Brand
Debbie Moorhouse
Danielle Moorhouse
2019-04-01
Abstract
After oil, fashion is the second most polluting industry to the environment. The majority of brands design
four to six collections each year, with the average collection consisting of around thirty different fabrics.
At present, over 100 billion garments are produced annually, with consumers purchasing an estimated 60
percent more clothing items compared to fifteen years ago and keeping them for only half as long.
As consumers increasingly desire more sustainable garments, how can the fashion industry fully embrace
sustainability? This field case study examines how both new and established fashion designers and
brands can incorporate sustainable methods and principles at each stage of the product life cycle.
The case study addresses areas including: designing with less waste and more consideration to the
environment; sourcing sustainable textiles and ethical production; and providing prompts for creating a
sustainable brand identity.
Danielle Lara is a luxury fashion brand designing women’s ready-to-wear and couture evening wear.
Collections sell throughout the UK, Ireland, and internationally. In 2008, the brand was invited to exhibit at
London Fashion Week as part of a design collective where they showcased an upcycled collection of one-
of-a-kind and limited-edition evening dresses. Their designs were selected for the reuse of luxury fabrics
that would otherwise be discarded, a concept that was unusual and quite unique at the time.
Table of Contents
Learning Objectives .............................................................................................................................. 1
Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 2
Business Problem ................................................................................................................................ 3
Business Questions .............................................................................................................................. 8
Teaching Notes and Grading Guide ...................................................................................................... 8
References and Further Reading ........................................................................................................ 10
Learning Objectives
Upon completion of this case, students should be able to:
• Describe sustainable product development including: ethical sourcing, sustainable materials,
responsible supply chain and production.
• Explain sustainable brand management—specifically as this concept relates to entrepreneurship, brand
identity, marketing and communication, and corporate social responsibility (CSR) partnerships.
1
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Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
• Provide examples of concepts related to sustainable design including: waste reduction, problem
solving, sustainable design thinking, and product life cycle.
Introduction
Sustainable brands
Sustainable brands are willing to support sustainability and pursue purpose before profit in the quest
for better company reputations. Sustainable brand management is becoming more than just a way of
standing out in the market and is increasingly a consumer expectation, with businesses defined by their
commitment to values that go beyond making money. This has been partly as a result of widely-reported
industrial tragedies fueled by the demands for low-cost fast fashion. Notable amongst these industrial
tragedies was the 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza garment factory in Bangladesh. Widespread media
attention and criticism arose when clothing labels of well-known mass-market fashion brands were found
amongst the rubble. Notably, a social media campaign emerged using the hashtag #whomademyclothes.
Sustainable brands are often disruptive. After all they aim to make a difference to the world by rethinking
the strategies and concepts that we rely on every day. Implementing a sustainable business strategy
may require brands to realign their brand mission and consider what they can do differently to protect
the planet, as well as the people in the supply chain, and support the initiatives that matter most to
the business and its customers. Sustainability and transparency are rapidly one of the most prominent
challenges within the fashion industry, with the consumer desire for sustainability concurrently growing.
In their “The State of Fashion 2019 Report,” The Business of Fashion identified that sustainability is
“evolving from a tick-box exercise into a transformational feature that is engrained in the business model
and ethos of many recent success stories.” In a survey taken by the company for the report, 78 percent
of sourcing managers stated that they believe that sustainability will be a key purchasing factor for mass-
market apparel consumers by 2025 ( Business of Fashion 2018 ). Sustainability is also becoming an
important factor leading to brand success; a report by CDP in 2017 found that sustainable brands receive
an 18 percent higher return on their investment than businesses without a corporate social responsibility
(CSR) strategy.
Thus, sustainability is among the most critical social and political global issues of our time and the fashion
industry is faced with addressing the important challenge of implementing sustainable development
strategies across the entire supply chain to meet corporate responsibility targets and regulations
introduced by governments around the world. It is achievable for the industry to take positive actions
by incorporating responsible business practices, design, and creativity as a methodology for the
advancement of sustainable development.
Danielle Lara
Danielle Lara is a luxury fashion brand designing women’s ready-to-wear and couture evening wear.
Collections sell internationally, including throughout the UK and in Ireland.
In February 2008, the designer and founder of this luxury fashion brand was invited, alongside a number
of other designers, to create an upcycled fashion collection in partnership with the UK charity Cancer
Research. The objective was to showcase sustainable fashion and to raise awareness of its commercial
viability. At the time, sustainable fashion was just beginning to receive awareness and media attention in
magazines and during London Fashion Week (LFW). It was also the height of the vintage trend, which
coincided with thrift store shopping, further propelled by the personal style of a significant number of
celebrities.
2
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Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
The first capsule collection was created from a combination of reclaimed textiles and clothing donations
from the Cancer Research store headquarters and this encouraged designers to explore different
methods of using creativity to solve problems. “It’s really interesting and challenging to have to find a way
to use the materials because of the limitations they impose” ( Neustatter 2009 ). Each designer had their
own approach and style—the network of talent included print, accessories, women’s wear, and knitwear
designers.
The individual designers involved in the project came together as a collective when Cancer Research
UK hosted a launch party at its boutique in Marylebone London, where a Danielle Lara dress had been
chosen to feature as the window display. The next goal was to create a collection that was to be exhibited
at LFW, Estethica in September 2008, part of the official LFW exhibition at Somerset House.
Business Problem
As well as the collaborative project with the LFW design collective, the Danielle Lara brand continued to
design collections using upcycling as a concept and redesign tool. The Danielle Lara sustainable luxury
women’s wear collection was launched at the Brand Preview online trade show in 2016. The brand’s
own online store was launched selling the autumn/winter 2016 collection in August of that year. The first
sustainable women’s collection launched with around twelve pieces including evening dresses, as well as
accessories, with a goal to gradually introduce a full range of day and evening wear.
Sustainable design and production
To reduce preconsumer textile waste within the design and production processes the brand adopted
methods of pattern cutting for minimal or no waste, including:
• zero-waste pattern design
• using fabrics that could be easily recycled into new fibers
• reduced seam construction to allow for ease of deconstruction at the garment end of life
• introducing closed loop production at the design stage.
This approach was successful not only in eliminating the amount of textile waste but also proved effective
as a method to replenish stock at the brand’s own flagship retail stores, offering something new for
customers each visit. Soon around two-thirds of the ready-to-wear women’s collection sold in the
brand’s own boutique retail stores was made using recycled luxury fabrics from previous collections; the
equivalent of a 66 percent reduction in preconsumer textile waste.
However, upcycling was not without its problems, which included reproducing and production control in
the remanufacturing process; the availability of suitable materials; and the ability to take advanced orders
from retail stockists. This shortage of supply meant customers were required to join a waiting list to buy
the pieces.
Sustainable textiles sourcing
Developing the first ready-to-wear Danielle Lara collection with ethical and sustainable fabrics was
a stepping stone to producing fully transparent sustainable collections. The foremost concern of any
fashion brand committing to design collections with sustainable textiles is quality standards. “As a couture
women’s wear designer I am accustomed to working with luxury fabrics, but some of these sustainable
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Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
textiles, especially ones I found produced in Italy, were actually better than any silks or synthetic fabrics I
have used in the past and without the use of chemical dyes” ( Moorhouse 2016 ).
The Danielle Lara collection prioritized sourcing:
• ethically certified, sustainable textiles across all collections
• nonchemical dyes
• vintage lace and designer offcuts from previous collections
• a handbag collection produced with sustainable and nonanimal vegan textiles.
Figure 1. Made in the UK-Clothing, Fashion & Accessories Initiative logo mark. © Made in the UK- Clothing, Fashion & Accessories
Initiative (UKCFA).
4
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transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
Production and textile and surface design
It was important for Danielle Lara to use localized production of textiles, products, and collections, and
zero-waste techniques where possible. Luxury UK manufacturers were sourced from the Made in the UK-
Clothing, Fashion and Accessories Initiative (UKCFA), a nonprofit industry organization and professional
network to support UK fashion design and manufacturing.
Although more demanding, designing textiles and prints guarantees exclusivity and ultimately provides
complete creative freedom over the design process as well as further connecting with the luxury
consumer demographic by offering unique products. The brand incorporated various artisan techniques
in the collection. The first sustainable women’s wear collection featured a digital printing technique that
reduced the amount of water in the process. Typical water usage for screen printing is in the region
of 50–60 liters of water per meter, whereas digital printing, with its minute quantities of color and its
requirement for fixation only finishing, uses less than 10 liters of water per meter. These savings for the
environment continue with energy consumption, digital printing uses 60 percent less electricity than the
same meterage produced by screen printing ( Mckeegan 2018 ).
The couture collection incorporated ballet prints designed with a combination of handbeading and digitally
embroidered feathers. A black corset featured in the couture collection had been handbeaded and
constructed of thousands of tiny reclaimed beads. “Through printing and embellishment, luxury waste
fabrics can be repurposed and transformed into something new and completely different” ( Moorhouse
2016 ).
Handbags
The brand designed a sustainable luxury bag collection using a unique eco-conscious tree bark fabric
sourced from the Netherlands and Pinatex, a natural and sustainable textile produced from pineapple
leaf fibers that are a by-product from the pineapple harvest. Another supplier in New York offered a
sustainable paper fabric that gives the appearance of leather, is available in several colors, and has
hardwearing properties strong enough to produce bags or shoes. The design of the handbag and
accessories collection is intended to be a timeless classic style.
Jewelry
The brand also designed a capsule collection of fine silver pendant necklaces made using Fairtrade
silver metal clay, hallmarked by the British Assay Office. The jewelry pieces represented the details in the
fashion collection such as the embroidered feathers on evening dresses and printed rose textiles lining
the coats that were both custom designed. “It felt like a natural progression to design accessories, helping
to style and complete the outfits in the women’s wear collection” ( Moorhouse 2016 ).
Brand identity
Fashion designers working in the luxury sector have been embracing sustainable fashion, for example,
Chanel’s spring/summer 2016 collection represented sustainable haute couture. Chanel’s creative
director Karl Lagerfeld says: “I liked the idea of taking the idea of ecology one step further and making it
high fashion, elegant and luxurious” ( Chua 2016 ). The Dolce and Gabanna Alta Moda couture collection
are all one of a kind dresses that are the embodiment of exclusivity and slow fashion philosophy, and the
Maison Margiela couture show is always innovative and upcycled.
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the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
It can be challenging for new independent designers to launch themselves in the luxury market and
command the high prices required to achieve a profit on their collections. As an established business,
Danielle Lara launched their sustainable women’s wear collections aligned with the luxury fashion market
from the outset, designing an accessories collection to complement the main line. Based on the initial
interest when launching the collection, the elegant style of the collection and the ethics behind it seemed
to appeal particularly to the US market.
With the intention of being a predominantly online business it was important to develop a strong brand
identity online. They opted for a simple user interface with a black background and a slideshow of images
of the collection as the focal point. The site is optimized for cellphones and accessible from any device.
Brand positioning
There was a question about how much customers were willing to pay for what were essentially second-
hand materials. The nature of the individual and bespoke production of these products, related it strongly
to the luxury market and a target consumer who is looking for something unique. The Danielle Lara brand
has always worked within the luxury and couture market. The nature of the special occasion garments
themselves taking many hours to produce, gave the outfits an increased emotional value, and gave rise
to the brand looking into ways of integrating a change of meaning and value into the outfits by helping
greater social and charitable causes in the process.
The brand’s first stockist was a boutique selling chic ethical brands in the Beverley Hills district of West
Hollywood, Los Angeles. The boutique’s founder described the store concept as a version of “Barneys
meets Fred Segal and Opening Ceremony.”
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Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
Art direction, PR, and marketing
Figure 2. Sustainable luxury dress by designed by Debbie Moorhouse. © Danielle Lara.
Danielle Lara targets stylish, intelligent women with an increasing awareness of the impact of their
purchases. Their first photoshoot took place on the streets of London in order to convey natural elegance
with a modern edge. The brand focused on building a personal database of press contacts, celebrity
stylists, and potential stockists including buyer contacts for upmarket UK department stores Harvey
Nichols, Harrods, and Selfridges. When a magazine in New York working on their September issue
requested information about the new sustainable collection, they had to create a press release and
quickly learn how to design a professional online digital look book for the autumn/winter RTW collection.
Once the look book was completed they began to approach other magazines and blogs. The other main
PR focus was to develop a strong social media strategy and the brand created company pages across
social media channels including Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, Tumblr, Instagram, and Pinterest.
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Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
Conclusion
As a brand Danielle Lara specializes in luxury occasion-wear and through following the same principles
exhibited in an upcycled collection, created an exclusive and desirable product. The Danielle Lara brand’s
early success as part of the charity collaboration provided a strong foundation for further development
of its design and production capabilities. Now with a clear brand identity and international exposure
its founder is considering how to balance the competing forces of commerciality and sustainability.
That is, how to increase its product offering whilst maintaining its commitment to innovation in design
and traceability in production? With sustainable luxury brands increasing in popularity and consumers
becoming more aware of the impact of their clothing choices, what should their next steps be?
Business Questions
1. Define and give examples of concepts related to sustainable design including waste reduction, problem
solving, sustainable design thinking, and product life cycle.
2. Define and explain sustainable brand management; specifically, as this concept relates to
entrepreneurship, brand identity, marketing and communication, and corporate social responsibility
(CSR) partnerships.
3. As consumers are increasingly aware and concerned about the social and environmental impact of
their purchases, businesses are beginning to understand the benefits, but how can fashion brands
implement sustainable strategies along the supply chain?
4. How can brands engage customers with the various issues surrounding sustainability?
5. What comparisons could be suggested between sustainable values and the luxury fashion market?
6. Danielle Lara partnered with Cancer Research to donate a percentage of sales to the charity. What
partnerships could be formed with non-governmental organizations to promote corporate social
responsibility?
Teaching Notes and Grading Guide
This field case is intended as a resource and step-by-step guide for fashion designers on how to integrate
sustainable principles into their practice, with opportunities for learning and discussion on how they would
create a custom approach to social and environmental sustainability for their own designs.
This business case study has been written by the cofounders of the International Society For Sustainable
Fashion (ISSF). Developed as a pedagogical resource primarily aimed at postgraduate students, the
information in this case study can enable higher education institutions to achieve the teaching and
learning objectives in relation to sustainability and corporate responsibility in a range of subject areas
including fashion, textiles, design, business, marketing, and communication.
The business case is designed for students in upper division and graduate level courses. Students
should have basic knowledge of the fashion industry, design, brand management, and sustainability. The
case study has been used in teaching postgraduate students and practitioners enrolled on MA Fashion
Design, MA International Fashion Management, and as an advanced module to final year BA students.
It has also been delivered at ISSF workshops for designers and industry professionals, presented at
conferences, and given as guest lectures for universities by fashion designer and organization founder
Debbie Moorhouse.
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the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
At the beginning of teaching this case study not all students will have awareness about sustainability
issues, but the case has been designed to be relatable and has received an extremely positive reaction in
the author’s experience. By the end of the case study, students and practitioners feel equipped to move
forward in their work having been provided with the necessary problem solving tools and information now
required for industry.
Video
To ensure all students have an understanding of the social and environmental issues throughout the
fashion supply chain, screening a documentary such as The True Cost is an ideal introduction to the
subject of sustainable fashion.
Discussion and activities
The Business Questions may be assigned as an out-of-class writing activity. Students would be expected
to research and respond to each of the questions. Grading of the questions would be based on their
providing complete answers with justification. The out-of-class writing activity could then be used as the
basis for in-class small group or full class discussion.
The case study could also be used as a prompt for additional out-of-class projects and in-class
discussions. The following questions could be addressed by students as a follow-up to the case study.
Several of the questions allow students to examine additional fashion brands as well as focus on the
students’ own design work and brand management strategies.
• Design: How can creativity be used to reduce waste and develop sustainable solutions?
• Students should consider that every product needs to be produced using sustainable materials.
Students should research appropriate sustainable textiles that could be used for their designs or an
existing brand.
• An alternative sustainable solution is surface design as a method for redesigning an existing fabric
that would otherwise be wasted to create something new.
• Production: How can an ethical supply chain be implemented at the manufacturing stage for the
student’s own collection or an existing brand?
• Students should consider local production, living wage, fair trade, and risk of human and
environmental exploitation.
• How can a sustainable brand mission be communicated to consumers? In order to consider this
question, students might begin by answering the following:
• If you could change one thing about a brand that you make purchases from, what would it be?
(Representative fashion models in advertising campaigns? Organic? Fair labor? Recycling?)
• What sustainable methods and values could be applied to each student’s own designs?
• How could your favorite fashion brand incorporate sustainability?
About the authors
Debbie Moorhouse is fashion designer and founder of Danielle Lara, a sustainable luxury fashion
and eveningwear brand. Her designs have been exhibited at London Fashion Week, the British Bridal
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transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
Creating a Sustainable
Luxury Fashion Brand
Exhibition, and featured in magazines worldwide. Debbie Moorhouse is also the cofounder of several
nonprofit industry organizations including the International Society For Sustainable Fashion (ISSF), and
Made in the UK-Clothing, Fashion & Accessories Initiative (UKCFA).
Danielle Moorhouse is cofounder of the International Society For Sustainable Fashion (ISSF), Made With
Love Global Initiative, Certified Made in the UK business organization, and the Made in the UK-Clothing,
Fashion & Accessories Initiative. Danielle’s expertise is in creating networks for positive change and her
interests include sustainable development, fair trade, luxury goods, and ethical jewelry.
References and Further Reading
Business of Fashion. 2018. The State of Fashion 2019. Accessed December 12, 2018. https://
cdn.businessoffashion.com/reports/The_State_of_Fashion_2019.pdf [https://
cdn.businessoffashion.com/reports/The_State_of_Fashion_2019.pdf].
Chua, Malik. 2016. “Chanel Couture Goes ‘Green’ For Spring 2016 With Eco-Friendly Looks.” Ecouterre,
January 29. Accessed December 12, 2018. https://inhabitat.com/ecouterre/
chanel-couture-goes-green-for-spring-2016-with-eco-friendly-looks/
[https://inhabitat.com/ecouterre/chanel-couture-goes-green-for-spring-2016-with-eco-friendly-
looks/].
Ellen MacArthur Foundation. 2017. “A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future.” Accessed
July 30, 2018. http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications [http://
www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications].
Holton, Kate. 2018. “Burberry Ends Bonfire of the Luxuries after Waste Outcry.” Reuters, September
6. Accessed December 12, 2018. https://uk.reuters.com/article/uk-burberry-
strategy/burberry-to-stop-burning-unsold-goods-removes-real-fur-from-
collections-idUKKCN1LM0MX [https://uk.reuters.com/article/uk-burberry-strategy/burberry-
to-stop-burning-unsold-goods-removes-real-fur-from-collections-idUKKCN1LM0MX].
McKeegan, Debbie. 2018. “Digital Textile Printing Unlocks the Supply Chain & Offers Speed
Alongside Sustainability.” whichPLM, August 7. Accessed December 12, 2018. https://
www.whichplm.com/digital-textile-printing-unlocks-the-supply-chain-
offers-speed-alongside-sustainability/ [https://www.whichplm.com/digital-textile-
printing-unlocks-the-supply-chain-offers-speed-alongside-sustainability/].
Moorhouse, Debbie and Danielle Moorhouse. 2016. ““Sustainable Design: Circular Economy
in Fashion and Textiles” .” The Design Journal 20 (Supp. 1): S1948–S1959. doi:
10.1080/14606925.2017.1352713 [http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352713] .
Moorhouse, Debbie and Danielle Moorhouse. 2018. ““Designing a Sustainable Brand Strategy for
the Fashion Industry” .” Clothing Cultures 5 (1): 7–18. doi: 10.1386/cc.5.1.7_2 [http://
dx.doi.org/10.1386/cc.5.1.7_2] .
Neustatter, Angela. 2009. “Second Chance Style: Your Trash is Our Treasure.” Mail Online, February
14, 2009. Accessed January 17, 2019. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/you/
article-1142622/Second-chance-style-Your-trash-treasure.html [https://
www.dailymail.co.uk/home/you/article-1142622/Second-chance-style-Your-trash-treasure.html].
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transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without
the permission of Bloomsbury Publishing. Copying or posting of this publication is an infringement of copyright.
