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CHARLIE'S CHARTS ~~~o;:::::~

NORTH TO ALASKA ~o
(Victoria, B.C. to Glacier Bay, AK)

BLl'E ,\k~ l'3E C\~VE. GLACIER BA Y By

charles E. Wood
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By the same author:

B~ILDING YOUR DRE~~ BOAT, Published by Corneli Maritime Press

CHARLIE'S CHARTS - The Western Coast of ~~XICO (inciuding Baja)
CHARLIE'S CHARTS of POLYNESIA

D E DI CAT E D T O

My long-time friend and feIlow sailor, Humberto (Hugh) Ricci.

Copyright ~ 1986 C.E. Wood

AlI rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced
in any form without permission in writing from the author.

Edited and assisted by Margo Wood. Photographs by the author.

ISBN 0-9691412-2-X

Published by: CHARLIE'S CHARTS

Box 1244, Station A
Surrey, BC V3S lGO
Canada

First Printing: 1986

Printed in Canada

Printed by: D. W. FRIESE~ & SO~S LID.

5748 - 176 Street
Cloverdale, BC V3S 4C8
Canada
 CONTE~TS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .... ii

INTRODUCTION 1

DESTINATION5 AND THE AREA COVERED BY THI5 GUIDE 2

The Type of Vessel • • • • • . • 3
Fuel. Water. and Provisions 3
...
o •••

Anchoring and MooTing Facilities 4

When to Travel • • • .... 5
The Crucia1 Passages • • ....
. .......
6
Weather Forecasts 9
Tides and Currents • • lO
Navigational Aids • • • • • 12
Charts • • • • • • • .
Time . . . . . . . .
... 12
13
Books and References • 13
The Native Cultures 13
Dangers •• • • 14
Fishing Licences 19
Entry Procedures
Whale Watching • .. . . . . ...
.. 19
20

SECTION 1: Victoria to Campbell River 24

SECTION 2: Campbell River to Port Hardy ... ... 60

SECTION 3: Port Hardy to Klemtu 86

SECTION 4: Klemtu to Prince Rupert • • 106

SECTION 5: Prince Rupert to Wrangel1 •• • 120
SECTION 6: Wrangel1 to Juneau • 132
SECTION 7: Juneau to Glacier Bay to Sitka 1'18

SECTION 8: Sitka to Barrier Islands to Prince Rupert • • 176

APPENDICES
I. Charts and Pub1ications •• , • • • • • • • • • • • • • 198
II. Canadian Coast Guard Radio Marine Weather Broadcasts • 200
III. Reporting Stations on Canadian Coast Guard Radio · 201
IV. United States Weather Statidns 202
V. Tab1e of Distances .•••••• .... • 203
INDEX • • 204
SYMBOLS • • 207
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I cannot claim to be an expert on Alaskan waters and owe thanks to many

people who have helped me to discover its manifold beauty. In particular I
"ish to thank Dr. and Mrs. R. White of "Seacomber," who were especially gener-
ous in advising me of useful anchorages and harbors in the beautiful El Capitan
Passage and adjacent waters. This section of the guide might have been less
satisfactory without their help.
In Juneau assistance was given by Gary Bassett of "EagIe," whose welcome
ignored the pouring rain. The National Park Service at Giacier Bay National
Park also deserve my thanks, especially Superintendent Mike Tollefson and
Supervisor Bruce Page. who helped arrange entry without the delay that occurred
as my early application snarled in red tape. The Canadian Coast Guard was also
most helpful in answering my questions.
There are many other people who both knowingly and unknowingly assisted me
and I thank them alI.
 ADDENDA June, 1989

Page

30 Para 3, Line 3: Collis10n Point should read C011inson Point.

46 Para 4: A rock breakwater has been built which protects the government
dock and a large marina which i5 50uth of the fuel dock. Though a sign on
the fuel dock advertises moorage, do not tie up to the dock after business
hours. When arriving late at night tie up at any empty slip at the marina
and settle the bilI in the morning.

52 Additional moorage is available at a floating government wharf in Fin Bay

which is a short distance to the north of sketched facilities at Lund.
Acccss to the town is by dinghy.

55 Severa1 large visible rocks northeast of Grass Island are missing from the
sketch.

62 Para 2, Line 3: The government breakwater shown on the sketch has been
extended to the south providing protection for greatly enlarged moorage
facilities. Canada's first salt water fishing pier has been constructed
outside of the long breakwater. Fishing licences are available from the
offiee loeated on the pier.

Para 3, Line 4: ••• while the overnight rate at Sportfish Centre is

currently 70 cents per foot with electrical eharges of $3 to $5.

64 Brown Bay has laundry and shower facilities as well as a restaurant.

70 Para 4, Line 1: The ferry slip i5 no longer in use though the pilings
remain in the Ioeation shown on the sketeh.

80 Para 5, Line 7: A timber breakwater at the north end of the bay provides
protection for docks used by native Indian fishing boats. Severa l public
moorin~ bunys are located between the fuel d0Ck and the government ~harf.
Nearby on shore are located the liquor store, RCMP. Post Office and
Fisheries Office.

82 Para 7, Line 2: The breakwater has been extended and additional floats
are no~ available.

84 Para 3, Line 3: Additiona] floats used by seiners have been cons~ructed

just to the south of the fuel dock. An angular float having a T-dock has
been added to the Government Dock shO\.;n nC'ar the top of the Port Hardy sketch.

Para 5, Line 1: •.•.• and is the year round terminus ••••••

Para 9: God's Pocket Resort has 300' of docking space (labelled Private
Doek on the sketch). Fishing and diving charters operate from this
loeation and showers are available.

Throughout this guide alI fuel docks labelled "Gulf Fuel" are now operated by
Petro-Canada.
 INTRODUCfION

This region vies for the tit1e of the greatest crulslng area in the wor1d:
blessed with an abundanee of harbors, magnificent scenery, arts and history,
and burgeoning new 10ea1 erafts. It is so indented with fiords and in1ets,
sprinkled with islands and coves that 1,000 miles of linear distance contains
over 25,000 miles of coastline. The South East Alaska portion accounts for 250
linear miles and Il,000 eoastline miles. There are few other plaees where
inland passages can be fo110wed for hundreds of miles and where the sea's
bounty can be harvested so readily in alI its variety. No other cruising area
has so many glaciers which diseharge their bergs directly into the sea.

The area lies within the migratory low pressure system be1t around the
world. Thus it lacks a settled. continuously sunny cruising season. The
annua 1 movement of summer's North Pacifie High and the winter's Aleutian Low
cause variations in the pattern of the weather but do not completely deter the
passage of the 10w pressure systems in summer, providing for frequently c10udy
skies often laeed with rain. Although one eould wish far more sunshine, it
should not be forgotten that it is this precipitation that keeps these areas so
heavi1y forested. and also produces the glaciers.

When traversing this region one moves through severa 1 different zones.
The south is more popu1ated and has islands that are generally 10w and provided
with shallow. well protected harbors. As one moves further north the inlets
become fiord-like and longer, their walls and shorelines are steeper. and the
harbors are correspondingly deeper and fewer in number. At the furthest north
section of this guide the snowline creeps down the steep mountains, and the
heavy snow cover gives birth to glaciated mountains close to the sea.

These different zones are separated by some cruciai open water passages
that must be treated with care and caution. They are nat of great length.
however; and the majority of the travelling is done within the "Inside Passage"
with protection from the open sea. Vessels of alI types and sizes make the
passage safely, and commerciaI fishermen move up and down the coest annually as
different areas of the coast open for fishing.

There is much to invite one to this largely untouched cruising area.

Its beauty alone can commend a visit, but its clean air and waters, and the
friendly people in the small towns and villages are equally attractive. In
addition it has alI the elements of "cruising foreign;" length. diversity of
interest. demands on vessel and crew, and the meeting of new friends -- even
storms at sea ean be hazards of the open water sections.
 2

DESTINATIONS ANO THE AREA COVERED BY TH15 GUIDE

The full Inside Passage reaches to Glacier Bay National Park and to 5itka
in South East Alaska. Beyond lie other portions of Alaska: Prince Willìam
Sound, the Kenai Peninsula, Cook Inlet, and the are of the remote and untouehed
Aleutian Islands which can be reached from this area, but are outside the scope
of this guide. Also not included are the offshore Queen Charlotte Islands of
British Columbia, and the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island. Areas of
great beauty and few visitations, alI of these ha ve their own intrinsic beauty
and navigational demands.

This volume covers the route from Victoria, B.C. through the waters between
Vancouver Island and the mainland, and then behind the skein of islands that
make the Inside Passage to South East Alaska. Because this is a great distance
this guide is restricted primarily to the main route of the passage itself.
There are many anchorages and interesting places everywhere, but it would take
several volumes if they were alI included. Other nearby anchorages whieh can
be used as alternatives for those detailed here are indicated.

The Iure of this guide is Glacier Bay, Alaska. This is a foca l destina-
tion and the route described traverses the main beauties of an area which is
growing in reputation and popularity. This is particularly true of South East
Alaska -- simply "South East" to its inhabitants. Thus the guide provides a
rewarding circuit that covers both the spectacularly distinctive scenery as
well as the smaller communities and less known but equally attractive areas of
the state. At severa l places it is possible to make additional routes off the
main circuiti to go up around Behm Canal to Misty Fiords Natìonal Monumeot for
example, or to go ioto bays and anchorages not described. These side trips
will depend on your time and inclination. The criteria used io selecting
anchorages and harbors are based on a nominaI day's run of 50 nautical miles
for a slower moving vessel such as an auxiliary sail boato Sources of fuel and
water are other factors. However, this is no hard and fast ruIe, and in
several sections the anchorages are more closely spaced if of special interest.
They also allow for a wider selection of stops for vessels with faster speeds
and longer daily runs. The choice of daily destinations depends on the
vessel's capabilities and one's interests.

In a few cases longer legs may be necessary due to lack of a suitable

intermediate stop. This is usually true of the open water crossings i.e.
across the Strait of Georgia, the run across Queen Charlotte Sound past Cape
Caution, and for the crossing of Dixon Entrance. These are given special
attention in the generaI notes that follow.

The anchorages described in this guide have been personally visited and
evaluated. As with other guides issued by Cl:ARLIE'S CHARTS, the sketches and
drawings are based on these visits, though wherever large scale charts of
anchorages are available they may be used as a basis for the sketches. The
sketches are alI hand-drawn to emphasize that they are NOT TO BE USED FOR
SAVIGATION. Proper charts and sailing directions should be carried and used
for actual navigation. A list of charts is given in Appendix I. Neither this
guide nor any other relieves a skipper of the responsibility of navigating
his/her own vessel safely. A go od sailor is always prudente
 3

THE TYPE OF VESSEL

Though fuel, water and prOVlSlons are easily obtained, any vessel chosen
should be sound and able to carry the requirements of those aboard for extended
periods of time. The ship must be capable of being lived aboard and of facing
weather and sea conditions that may worsen rapidly.

Depending on the months when one is travelling the weather ean be damp and
cold. Air and water temperatures are usually very eold in the vieinity of the
glaciers. When outfitting the vessel the skipper should keep this important
faet in mind.

As a long-time sailor, it is painful for me to admit that perhaps the best

type of boa t for this trip is a trawler-type vessel eapable of at least 8 knots
and with an inside steering station. This is not to say that a sailing vessel
cannot be used. All areas descri bed in this guide were visited in a 30-~'ear­
old 34-foot wooden cutter. But the prevailing winds over most of this area are
such that one should expect to motor for most of the trip when heading north,
and for at least some of the time on the return to the south. Moreover, the
negotiation of passes (if they are traversed at slack water) requires a vessel
that can make a minimum of 4 knots. Lastly, a dodger or cabin where one can be
out of the cold wind is essential, as is a heater to take the chilI out of a
boat during the cold, rainy days one will probably experience.

Power boats (excluding high speed planing hulls) usually have these
advantages, and the benefit of higher cruising speeds as eompared with most
sailboats. They are particularly suitable on the north-bound trip when head
winds and seas of moderate level are usually encountered. However, they are
less eomfortable with following winds and seas and cannot handle heavy weather
on the open water crossings as easily as sailboats can. Power boats are
constrained to wait for suitable conditions -- if comfort is desired -- and
thus the overaii times for the full passage for alI types of boats does not
differ by more than a few days unless exceptional conditions are experienced.
80th gasoline and diesel fuel are a\'ailable at most fuel stations, as is
kerosene. Propane may be obtained at major towns along the route.

Minor repairs to hull and engine can be undertaken at most of the smal!
towns along the passage. Tidal grids and mechanics are usually to be found.
Major repairs can only be done at the large towns having shipbuilding facili-
ties -- with parts probably having to be shipped from Vaneouver or SeattIe. A
well serviced and maintained engine(s) is highly recommended for a trip in
these waters.

FUEL, wATER, AND PROVISIONS

Both diesel oil and gasoline are available, though in parts of the Inside
Passage supplies may be some distance apart. Prices vary but are higher in the
remote areas. Larger centers (where there is commerciaI fishing traffic) tend
to have fairly similar prices. The high taxes on fuel in Canada lead to more
expensive fuel when in Canadian waters as compared to U.S. prices.
 4

Water is available at public docks. It is usually good, fresh. soft water

but facilities may not be convenìently arranged. There are also a myriad of
fresh water sources from lakes, waterfalls. and streams, but one should be
careful of such sources -- make su re that they come from clearly unpopulated
areas, and treat this water.

Initial provisioning is best accomplished in Vancouver or Victoria, British

Columbia or in any U.S. city in the Puget Sound area. However, there are
stores at almost alI stops with docks along the route and some small towns even
boast supermarkets. Prices vary with the degree of isolation of the store, and
tend to be approximately 20% higher in Prince Rupert and Alaskan stores com-
pared to southern outlets. Fresh produce in Alaska i5 shipped from Washington
and the selection may be limited.

ANCHORING ANO MOORING FACILITIES

The guide describes the useful anchorages along the route. ~any more can
be found if the scope of trave1 is wider. If desired, one can anchor during
the entire cruise. However. there is moorage at alI the towns along the
passage. and one usually uses these facilities for their convenience.

Moorage

At many places in both B.C. and Alaska there are government instal1ed
wharves and fIoats that can be used on a first come -- first served basis by
either commerciaI or pleasure craft. These tend to be heavily used during the
fishing season and rafting is a common courtesy. In the 1arger towns there are
a1so municipal and private marinas. A transient section is supposed to be
reserved in alI government marinas -- they are indicated in the charts. But
crowding of these transient floats is so common that there is seldom space
available. The harbormasters wi11 often direct one to a berth that is tempor-
arily vacant (hot-berthing) in order to accommodate transient traffico This is
one reason why one shou1d report to the harbormaster as soon as possible 00
arrivaI. Charges are usually moderate at government marinas -- in 1985 charges
ranged from $3 to $5 per day for a 35-foot vessel. Private marinas are more
expensive, usually double that of the public facilities.
The greatest disadvantage of the government marinas is the lack of sanitary
services such as shore toilets and showers. These can vary from non-existent
in Prince Rupert to a single unit at Bar Harbor in Ketchikan, or two Johnny-on-
the-spots at Aurora Boat Basin in Juneau. Showers are available from private
enterprises in several places.

Anchoring

Good, strong tackle and experience in setting one's anchor for varyiog
bottom conditions and the type of aochorage is essential for safety aod peace
of mind. A feature of this area is that one gains valuable experience in the
less demanding southern portion before reaching the deeper, sometimes
restricted anchorages of the mid and northero sections of the guide.
 5

At least two sets of anchors and rodes are essential, while experienced
cruisers normally carry three sets (one of ~hich may be a smali "lunch hook").
A spare 150- to 200-foot length af 3/8" or 1/2" rope can a1so be used as a
shore line when swinging is to be restricted. Rape rodes should always include
a section of good-sized chain at the anchor and an alI chain rode has some
advantage in dee p water anchoring. The larger the gear the more essential i5
an anchor winch, almost being a necessity with an al1-chain rode. Most modern
yachts have an anchor winch--a manual ane is generally found to be sufficiente

The Danforth , CQR , and Bruce anchors are commonly seen and give satisfac-
tion in most anehorages. The Bruce anehor has gained suppport in northern
waters where its ability to hold with minimum 5cope helps in the deeper
anchorages. The Northill is also used, and is favored by fishermen.

The minimum rode for one's main anchor should be 300 feet. Severai of the
anehorages in northern areas have depths of 90 feet or more, thus bringing the
ratio of scope to depth close to the minimum 3 to l. In considering the depth
of an anchorage remember that this entire area has a high tidai range.
Anchoring etiquette should keep one from crawding the boats already in an
anchorage.

WHEN TO TRAVEL

Glacier Bay records show that the bulk of visitors arrive from mid-May to
mid-September. Although temperatures are not high in May or September they are
good months for travelling in both B.C. and Alaska. The weather is clear and
fog 1s least likely. The snow from winter gives scenie views and melts to feed
innumerable waterfalls. In July and August the ~eather can indeed be warm, but
fog can become a problem; notably in the area from Dixon Entrance to the
northern end of Vaneouver Island. By October the winter rains begin.

For a trip to be dane in one season it is best ta start as early as pos-

sible, perhaps by mid-May or early June, but no later than early July. This
gives one a summer in the north. This generaI itinerary can be adjusted or
expanded to suit the vessel's capabilities and one's interests.

Some eonsider an extended period to cruise this unique area, staying for a
winter or t~o in Alaska. But unless one can live aboard to look after your
boat the cro~ded conditians at the docks will be hard on most unattended
vessels. StilI, this expands one's opportunities, and by having a longer time
to spend there is a wider area available to explore.

Other possibilities for some sizes and types of boats is to trailer one's
vessel to certain destinations and use it for as long as possible, before
returning to a port from which to return by trailer. Some qui te large
Californian power boats have reached Lund in British Columbia in this way, to
then have a whole spring and summer before them. The B.C. and Alaska Ferry
system can do the same for small pleasure craft, taking care of the long
journey up and down the coast in a short time -- leaving the best part of the
year for exploring your chosen area of the northwest.
 6

THE CRUCIAL PASSAGES

Though any part of the route can be made very easy or very difficult by
weather and sea conditions, there are four major passages along the route.

The Strait of Georgia

The crossing of the Strait of Georgia may be avoided by staying on the

eastern side of the Strait. This will not eliminate the discomforts of rough
conditions in the Strait, for there remain severa l long coastal passages.
Moreover, this eastern route wili take a newcomer away from the scenic and
attractive Gulf Islands area. Several nice anchorages would be missed.

As a rule, sailing vessels and large powered craft may cross the Strait
almost any time, though in bad weather the trip may be very uncomfortable.
SmaI1 craft are well advised to wait far suitable conditions to make the
crossing easier.

The weather holds the key to the conditions that wi1l be met on crossing
the Strait. Forecasting the weather is a ehancy business but in these waters
there are some generaI conditions that can be expected.

Good summer weather has settled northwester1y winds. They tend to be 1ight
in the early morning, rise during the day, and die down after about 1700 hours.
At night a heavy dew on the deeks is a good indicator of sueh a periodo Thus
the early morning or the evening hours are the most suitable for travelling.

If the northwesterlies do not diminish in the evening this is because a

high pressure area has stayed in position for two or three days. Crossings can
be uncomfortable at this time due to the build up of seas, so it is best to
wait out the weather and enjoy the Gulf IsIands.

Southeasterly winds presage rain and storms. They vary in intensity and
while each storm seldom lasts more than 24 hours, severa l successive fronts may
extend this period over severa l days. Weather reports can usually give one an
estimate of the strength of the disturbance. The lighter winds can allow
travel, albeit in rain or overcast conditions, whi1e the heavier storms should
be treated with eaution. In summer there are genera1ly more good travelling
days than bad, and most waiting periods are usually of short duration.

In crossing the Strait of Georgia between Nanaimo or Silva Bay and Welcome
Passage a special note should be made regarding the area label1ed as "Whiskey-
Golf" on the charts. This area is set aside far Canadian and U.S. Navy torpedo
test purposes. Its full extent may not be marked on many charts and older
charts may not show it at alI. The direct route across the Strait passes
through this zone. If one strays into the area without clearing with
Winchelsea ContraI on VHF Ch. 16, one will be speedily apprised of the error.
If permission is granted to cross the area when no tests are schedu1ed, one
may be requested to calI again when clear of the zone. Tests are not carried
out aver mueh of the summer and are usually limited to between 0700 to 1730,
but the zone is reserved and must be cleared for passage.
 7

The usuai route from Silva Bay to WeIcome Pass ean be easily arranged to
pass around this area. One ean make su re by allowing for a sIight southerly
dog-leg, or by proeeeding about 13 miles north of Nanaimo to south of Ballenas
Islands and crossing via Lasquetti Island. Similar return routing is neces-
sary. These routes are the safest way to avoid unnecessary encounters with
officialdom, and in faet, provide the most suitable slants for the erossing.

Mid-Section Passes

The main pass into Johnstone Strait from the Strait of Georgia is via
Campbell River and Discovery Passage. The tides can run to 15 knots at springs
through Seymour Narrows. Further north, either Race or Current Passage (where
tidal eurrents may reaeh 7 knots) must also be passed before Johnstone Strait
is entered.

Before entering Seymour Narrows the influenee of the strong tidal currents
can be noticeable. ~ith the flood (south-flowing) opposed by southeasterly
winds a heavy race occurs off of Cape Mudge and Willow Point. In faet, with
any strong wind opposing either stream the various races and eddies can become
quite dangerous.

Furthermore, loeal travel between harbors near Diseovery Passage (even

outside the narrows) can be greatly affected by the strong tidal currents
unless one is travelling at or near slack water. The current sweeps past the
entrances to Quathiaski Co ve and Gowland Harbor at a fast rate; if one has been
fishing and not watching the tide tables it can be a chore working back to
anchor. This is the voice of experience! The Quadra Island Ferry also gives
one an indication of these currents as one watches its attitude as it crosses.

The foregoing aside, the passage can be made without difficulty if done at
or near slack water or going in the direction of the turning tide. The 25
miles of the Passage can be done in one run, and a favara bI e tide often carried
right to Alert Bay.

Alternatively, one ean choose the series of passes beginning with Yuculta
Rapids, Gilliard Passage, and Dent Rapids and proceed through Greene Point
Rapids and Wellbore Channel before entering the finai portion of Johnstone
Strait through Chancel10r Channel. This is the favored route of most smal1
vessels. It i8 a more interesting route, and though the various rapids can
attain impressive velocities, if the first rapids are entered just before the
turn of the tide it is often possible to carry one tide through the entire
series. If this 1s impossible, there are many anchorages indicated in this
guide in which to wait until the rapids are again passable with the regular
change of the tide.

Queen Charlotte Sound

The passage between the north end of Vancouver Island past Cape Caution to
the entrance of Fitz Hugh Sound is perhaps the most crucial of the open water
passages. This body of water, Queen Charlotte Sound, has a well-deserved bad
reputation. The effects of ebb currents flowing northward from the inlets, a
shal10w basin (as little as 20 fathoms), and an orientation that funnels the
 8

northerly winds can result in steep and dangerous seas. But it is with the
winter storms that this body of water is at its worst. In the late spring
and 5ummer there are less frequent storms. Good anchorages are indicated for
waiting out inclement weather conditions on either si de of the Sound.

Most powered craft find that the 45-mile crossing from Port Hardy. God's
Pocket or Bull Harbour past Egg Island and Cape Caution to Safety Cove angles
comfortably over the prevailing swell. An alternative route with less exposure
to the Sound can be made by crossing to or keeping on the north side of Queen
Charlotte Strait and beginning the passage from Allison Harbor or Miles Inlet.
Though this route involves a shorter distance, one is running directly into the
swell and prevailing northwesterly winds. In addition, this is a lee shore;
thus caution is advised.

Weather reports are broadcast from Alert Bay, including observations at Egg
Island lighthouse which lies along the route. The observations from light-
houses ahead give an indication of the type of wind and sea conditions on the
main part of the trip aeross. They are of great assistance in deciding on the
time to travel. A list of reporting stations on Canadian Coast Guard Radio is
given in Appendix III.

The currents run quite strongly in many of the passages and allowances
should be made for them in courses set and in estimated times required for
travelling.

Fog and rain are comman in the summer months. Preparations far the trip
across should include marking in and noting the bearings of the important
lights and islands. The Canadian lighthouse system is good for providing key
route markers--not just for making night passages. Although paor visibility
(as a result of haze or fog) may make it difficult ta identify one's destina-
tion against the mass of similar terrain, the islands scattered along the route
are usually good navigational aids.

In addition, there are four radio beacons suitable for use during this
crossing. These are. from sauth to north:

Alert Bay - 335 kHz (range 25 miles) _. - - -- -_ ..

Pine Island - 318 kHzIV (range 40 miles) .- - .
(operating in sequence with Lennard 15. and Quatsino)
Cape Scott - 354 kHz (range 75 miles) - - •.
Egg Island - 207 kHz (range 25 miles)

Because of the relative placement of these beacons a bearing crossing Cape

Scott with one of the others (depen~ing on your position) is the only choice
far the route across the Sound.

Dixon Entrance

The passage of Dixon Entrance takes one across the border between Canada
and the United States. This section is exposed to the full effeet of the open
Pacific, but with a judicious choice of route and weather the crossing can be
made without difficulty.
 9

The hazards of Dixon Entrance include complex currents and fog -- a

nuisance from July to September -- when it can be a problem of several days
duration. Swells move into the area from the west and southwest, and even on
calm days the swell is presento

The main exposure to the swell and weather is reduced by crossing from
Prince Rupert into the lee of Dundas Island. Thus, open seas are faced only in
the 10-mile passage between Green Island (near the north end of Dundas Island)
and Tree Point Light (past Cape Fox). Powered vessels may find sea conditions
more of a problem on the return because following seas wil1 be experienced on
the section between Dundas Island and the entrance to Prince Rupert. Radio
beacons for the crossing include:

Prince Rupert - 218 kHz (range 100 miles)

Triple Island - 308 kHz II and V (range 50 miles) ---
The swell itself is not a problem, but with any wind the sea state is
affected considerably. If the wind or swell is running contrary to the current
races of disturbed water occur at several places, and the crossing of these
areas can be uncomfortable. As in other crossings, anchorages are noted where
one may wait for the best time for a crossing. In addition, harbors are
indicated that provide a refuge if conditions deteriorate during a passage.

Open Water Passages of Lesser Extent

There are short periods of exposure as one enters into or crosses some of
the sounds or passages which are open to the ocean, such as Milbanke Sound.
Also many of the inner waters such as Chatham Sound and Stephens Passage are
broad and long and thus offer fetch and conditions comparable to open water
crossings. One may also ha ve routes passing around an open sea cape, such as
Cape Chacon or Cape Decision, where weather and sea conditions are usually
disturbed.

Usually the open water exposure in these smaller crossings is sufficiently

limited as not to be a problem. This does not mean that they should be treated
casua11y. but the discomfort of any exposure is not of long duration. There
are alternative routes that offer more protection at the expense of longer
distances. Caution in choosing the time to cross and careful navigation should
eliminate or reduce problems related to open ~ater exposure.

~~ATHER FORECASTS

North American sailors are fort~nate in being provided with weather fore-
casting services that relate specifically to small craft, both pleasure and
commerciaI. But in the area of this guide the remoteness of smal1 communities
does affect the overaii coverage available. Since the area is also very moun-
tainous, radio reception can be variable and though relay stations are used
there are many areas with spotty or inadequate reception. Considering the
costs and problems involved. the system is admirable, and provides a much
needed service.
 lO

The quality of the forecasts is often debated by small boat operators whose
decisions will be based on the information given. Since forecasters tend to
formulate statements for large areas the predictions sometimes seem to have no
relevanee to any particular area, and when the inaccuracy inherent in such an
arcane art is added, it tends to give weather forecasters a poor reputation.

Canadian Coast Guard forecasts are conceded by most sailors to be slightly

more informative and to provide more data over recognizable zones than do the
U.S. foreea5ts. Conditions reported by the manned lighthouses that lie within
the area eovered are of the greatest use. This data is regularly up-dated
every few hours. It provides the clearest information as to the weather to be
expected when the reporting stations are near a vessel's location and planned
route. A list of radio weather broadcasts and reporting stations is given in
Appendix II.

The ship's barometer and the skipper's weather sense are also useful to
interpret the signs and data received. Some old and useful observations that
are wideIy applicable are:

- The weather pattern in effect today will usually be in effect tomorrow

uniess definite signs of change are evidente
- Winds usually pick up in the forenoon and increase in the afternoon,
tending to die down in the evening.

TIOES ANO CURRENTS

These are of great significance to anyone travelling the waters within this
guide. Tide and current tables are essentiai items of navigational informa-
tion, particularly for the times of slack water at narrow passes.

The basie tidal pattern is semi-diurnial i.e. two high tides and two low
tides per day. However, this i5 strongly affected by the moon's declination,
so that at times the tidai effect is a1most diurnial. There is a1so a marked
difference in the heights of the two high waters and the two low waters because
of the declinational effect.

The tidal range i8 high throughout this area. It varies from lO feet or
more in the southern part to 15 feet or more in the northern parto The tidal
streams flood into and ebb out of the many straits, sounds, and inIets.

The more complex tidal stream patterns occur between Vancouver Island and
the mainland. The flood enters from both ends -- Juan de Fuca in the south.
and Queen Charlotte Strait in the north. After passing through the various
channels the streams meet below Cape Mudge, in the vicinity of Middlenatch
Island. In its movement through these areas the narrowness of certain passages
combined with the high si1l5 and deep basins cause the tidal streams to pass
through at high velocities. Flood and ebb streams can reach speeds of 8 knots
at Gillard Islands, 9 knots at Dent Rapids, and 15 knots at Seymour Narrows in
Discovery Passage. Similar speeds are reached in other passes.
 Il

In the larger channels of the Inside Passage the tidal streams follow the
generaI direction of the passages, with the flood streams generaIly setting in
from each end, meeting about the middle. The ebb streams run outwards in both
directions from this central point. Examples of these flows occur in Grenville
Channel, Graham Reach, and other similar passages.

Therefore it is important to consider the tidal currents, first, because

the major passes can only be safely traversed at or near slack water, and
second, because an adverse current running against one for long passages will
extend travelling time.
For the long fiord-like inlets with unobstrueted entrances the times of
high and low water oecur about the same time throughout the inlet. But if the
entrances are obstrueted and narrow then strong tidal currents result which
will affect the times and conditions of entry and exit. Examples of these are
Baker Inlet off Grenville Channel and Fords Terror off Endicott Arm.
A study of the tide books and attempts to fit the day's p!ans in step with
the currents wi!l be as beneficiaI to the voyage as thinking of the wind and
~eather general!y. For B.C. waters the offieial Canadian Tide and Current
Tables are:

- Volume 5 (green): Juan de Fuca and Georgia Straits

- Volume 6 (blue): Barkley Sound and Discovery Passage to Dixon Entranee

Or one may obtain the combined Vol. 5 and Vol. 6: Pacific Coast Edition which
covers alI B.C. waters discussed in this guide. They can be obtained for
$2.50 in Canada or $3 elsewhere from any Canadian chart dealer or by writing to
and enclosing payment in Canadian funds (certified check or money arder) to:
Canadian Hydrographic Service, Dept. of Fisheries and Oceans
Institute of Oeean Seiences, Patricia Bay
9860 West Saanich Road, P.O. Box 6000
Sidney, BC V8l 4B2

For Alaskan waters the official tables are:

- Tide Tables, West Coast North and South America $6.75

- Tidal Current Tables, Pacific Coast of North America and Asia - $5.50
These may be obtained from any US Chart dealer, or by writing and enelosing
payment in U.S. funds by money order 0r certified check to:

Distribution Branch (N/CG 33)

National Ocean Service
Riverdale, MD 20737
Alternatively, one may also pick up the small, annually published tide tables
(Dots Fishing Guides) often given away at marine stores in Ketchikan, Sitka.
and Juneau. These are strictly tide tables with correetions for various loeai
points, and there is no information regarding current times or velocity.
However, most charts of the key passes include some comment as to the average
variation of maximum currents if different from slack water. At the very least
this booklet can help to determine reasonable times of passage.
 12

NAVIGATIONAL AIDS

Generally speaking, the United States and the Canadian systems of lights
and buoys are sufficiently alike that most sailors pass from one country to the
other without much concerno The waters of the United States are marked by the
latera1 system of buoyage. Canada has adopted and introduced a new buoyage
system since 1983, which includes both lateral and cardinal buoys as recommended
for use worldwide by the International Association of Lighthouse Authorities.
In both cases the maio channels are marked by lateral buoys which we remember
by the 01d stand-by, "RED RIGHT RETURNING", i.e. on proceeding upstream the
starboard (right) side of the channel has red buoys. Match your green light to
the red 1it buoys. Fairway and bifurcation or channel buoys are also similar
for both countries.

Canada, however, nov uses cardinal buoys to indicate the deeper water and
the safe side to pass a danger, i.e. one keeps to the safe side of a cardinal
buoy. The markings for cardinal buoys are no~ standardized, and a booklet
describing them can be picked up at most chart agents, Coast Guard Stations, or
from the Hydrographic Departments.

The United States has, in the South East, made alI lighthouses into
un-manned stations with the single exception of the Five Fingers Light near
Cape Fanshawe in Stephens Passage. Canada stilI maintains its major coastal
lighthouses with keepers. Usually two families share each tour of duty. This
system has its advantages. These include a variation in the design of each
lighthouse that makes them distinct1y recognizable, and the keepers make
weather observations that are reported to the main weather stations which can
give 10eal data along the Inside Passage. In addition, the lighthouses can be
called on VHF Channel 16 for information, or for emergency aid.

CHARTS

Charts of both countries that have large portions of offshore ocean area
can be obtained with Loran markings, for those equipped with this navigational
system. Other specialised charts may be listed in chart catalogs.

The list of charts shown in Appendix I have been found to be essentiai for
safe travel. Travel with less can be dangerous because of lack of information.
The number of charts given here can be costly to obtain but this is an expense
no rational skipper should neglect. Canada and the U. S. have first-class
charts and navigational systems, well maintained, and constantly updated.

This 1atter point, of the date' and corrections to charts requires a note
that the list as given in 1986 may change at any time, and one cannot expect it
to be kept current at alI times. Therefore, this guide takes no responsibility
for the availability, correctness of names, numbers, and Iists of charts,
except as of the date of printing.

AlI charts obtained should be the newest edition available, and corrected
to include the most recent changes as published in "Notices to Mariners."
 13

TIME

The whole area of this guide is in the time zone of Greenwich or Universal
Standard Time + 8 hours. Furthermore, the entire area uses Daylight Saving
Time, which has its effects on the navigator reading the times of tides and
current tables. The rule is "Spring ahead and Fall back" so between April and
5eptember add one hour to the Pacific 5tandard Time given in the tide tables.

BOOKS AND REFERENCES

There are a great many books that cover British Columbia and Alaska. Only
a few are mentioned to provide information of help to cruising sailors. Pilots
and Sailing Directions, Tide and Current Tables, and similar publications are
listed in Appendix I with the charts.

Cruising Beyond Desolation Sound by John Chappell, published in 1979 by ~aikoon

Marine, 4203 West 13 Avenue, Vancouver, Be V6R 2T7. This is a sailing guide
devoted to the area from Desolation Sound to the north end of Vancouver Island.
It complements and partly overlaps this book, but it is a valuable source of
additional information. Mr. Chappell passed away in 1985 and although the book
is out of print it will be re-issued. $17.95 (Can).
Cruising Guides to British Columbia: Volume I - The Gulf Islands. Volume II -
Desolation Sound, Volume III - The Sunshine Coast, by Bill Wolferstan and
published over the last few years by Pacific Yachting, 202 - 1132 Hamilton
Street, Vancouver, se V6B 252. These glossy books have good color photos of
many of the various harbors along the B.C. coast. At $49.95 (Can) each they
are expensive guide books for a working vessel.
Alaska's Southeast, Touring the Inside Passage by Sarah Eppenbach, published
in 1983 by Pacific Search Press, 222 Dexter Avenue North, Seattle, WA 98109.
This is a generaI guide to the South East, and thus covers the 'tourist' facts
of this area and its principal towns that might add to one's interest when
travelling here. It includes a good, short introduction to the native
heritage of the South East.
Almost alI the major towns publish some form of free tourist literature in
booklet or newsprint form that gives considerable 10cal information.

THE NATIVE CULTURES

Travel along this coast and visits to any of the towns that lie on it
develops a growing interest in the native Indian cultural1y influenced art.
Totem poles are the first and most persuasive of the symbols one sees that
trigger this interest. But almost every object in native life, even the most
utilitarian, was decorated with design -- as for example berry baskets and
beautifully carved wooden halibut hooks. This guide can do no more than
introduce the tribal areas and point out other sources of information.
 14

As one moves northward from Victoria tili roughly about Campbell River the
Coast Salish dominate. From there to past Bella Bella it is the Kwagiutl, then
the Tsimshian to the Alaska border with an intrusion around Metlakatla. The
sea-going Haida cover the Queen Charlotte Islands and the southern end of
Prince of Wa1es Island. The T1inglit cover the long remaining stretch of the
South East. There are similarities aS we11 as marked differences in tribal
cultures t and the loeal museums are a good way of finding out about themj the
University of British Colum~ia Museum of Anthropology being a major source, and
the museums of Prince Rupert, Juneau, and the She1don Jackson of Sitka being
useful as well.
Sarah Eppenbaeh's book t Alaska's Southeast noted on the previous page is a
go od introduction. "Totem Poles - an Illustrated Guide" by Marjorie M. Halpin
introduces the poles of the Haida and southern groups, while "Carved History" a
pamphlet sold in the Sitka National Historical Park describes the totems seen
in their park setting. These books also give bibliographies that lead one to
more detailed references.

DANGERS

Aside from the obvious and standard dangers of rocks, shoals, and heavy
weather there are some additional dangers pecu1iar to these waters.

There are many shoals in the vast area of this coast. Kelp grows on rocky
bottoms, and where it i5 seen in or on the water it should be taken as a sign
of danger. Living kelp usually indicates depths of 1ess than lO fathoms.
Since it i5 attached to the bottom its tendrils stream out in aline with the
surface currents. However, dead or detached kelp will often be seen floating
freely on the surface and obviously does not indicate the same thing.

Deadheads and Log Debris

This entire coastal area is one of the major logging zones of the worid.
Much of this timber is transported by log booms. Thus it is no surprise to
find that floating 10gs, deadheads, and sinkers are present in the inland
passages and inIets.

Floating logs can be encountered anywhere but seem most prevalent near tide
lines or at the entrances to inlets after very high tides or storms. Though
they occur in Alaska as well, they seem to be more in evidence in B.C.

Deadheads are 10g5 stuck at one end into the bottom, the other lying at or
near the surface. They can be even more dangerous because they are usual1y
less visible untii one is almost upon them and when hit they can cause serious
damage. Luckily, they do not remain long in pIace without becoming waterlogged
and sinking to the bottom, or being removed by the Coast Guard.
 15

Sinkers are the most dangerous of all, being large 10gs that have become
~aterlogged and rest vertically in the water, rising and falling with the
swell. Their danger comes from their apparent invisibility when underwater. If
they rise when one passes over them a vessel can be badly damaged. However,
they are problems that occur in deeper water. One should report large logs,
deadheads or sinkers to the nearest Coast Guard (Canadian or U.S.) who will
broadcast their loeation in the Notice to Mariners, and who may remove them.

Debris includes small logs, wood ehunks, branehes, etc., but though it ean
be a nuisanee it is not usually a dangerous problem. It is as well to avoid
debris, particularly since the branehes seen may be attached to partially
submerged trees.

However, these dangers are not continuous, nor found everywhere. A good
lookout when travelling, common sense in avoiding travel at times of low
visibility, or at night, will allow a voyage in these waters to be safely
accomplished.

Fishing Nets

Fishing is es important as lumber production along this coast. One will

share the waterways, harbors, and anchorages with fishing craft of various
types since their working season falls in the summer and early autumn. Fishing
periods are strictly regulated by the governments of Canada and the U.S. since
the early years of uncontrolled over-fishing almost ruined this resource.
There are four main types of fishing vessels seen in these waters.

Trollers may be seen working the shores, bays, and banks. They are
recognizable by their long pole outriggers extended out from the boat when
fishing and troll lines streaming out behind. When passing astern of them one
should give them at least a 200- to 300-foot berth in order to pass over their
lines without fouling them. Tro11 caught salmon are the highest quality fish
seen in markets.

Gillnetters are known by the large spool and rollers -- either on the
stern or the bow -- from which the net is let out while being supported by
floats. A buoy (red or orange) marks the net's free end. DO NOT PASS BETWEEN
THE ORANGE BUOY AND THE GILLNETTER as one will foul the net in one's prop,
rudder etc. The white floats which keep one side of the net at sea level can
usually be seen between the gillnetter and the orange float. Net size and
depth are regulated. Openings during the fishing season for gillnetters to
fish are tightly controlled by Fisheries Departments. 5uch openings move up or
down the coast with timings determined by the salmon runs arriving at river
entrances. Gill nets are usuaIly strung at right angles to the current flow,
with the vessel maintaining apulI on the line; but variable currents may cause
the nets to curve or wind about. Since gillnetters congregate in the high
yield areas of a channel their overlapping and crowded nets can be a major
problem if one i5 travelling on an open fishing day. They are supposed to
leave a clear passage but it is best if one weaves one's way around and past
the ends of their nets. When a gillnetter is fishing check to see if he is a
stern or bow netter and look well beyond for the buoy that marks the end of the
net.
 16

Purse Seiners are the largest fishing vessels and are elearly identified
by their size, the large boom, and power wineh. They are not likely to be a
problem for yachts; exeept that when there is an opening hordes of them ean be
met rushing to the site of the opening.

Long-Liners fish for halibut. They set longlines (skates) with baited
hooks la id down near the bottom with the ends marked by floats. They do not
operate during the summer and early fallo In any case, their lines are not a
problem as 'they are set well underwater.

Magnetie Disturbances

There are severa l places within the area of this guide where 10eal magnetic
disturbances occur. These disturbances are near land masses. They have been
noted in the sketches where they oeeur and are marked on charts. The magnetic
compass should not be relied on in these areas, for not only is there a varia-
tion in the disturbance over any zone, but the change may be unnoticed at the
onset and errors may enter one's navigation. As long as fair weather exists
and good visibility is available, the passage across these zones should be done
by visual cheeks. If such visual ehecks are not possible (due to fog etc.)
then it will be wiser to avoid these magnetically disturbed areas or await
clearing before passage making.

Tsunamis

This danger would seem a little far-fetehed except that earthquakes period-
ically oecur in or near the South East. Tsunamis are not a problem to a ship
at sea, as they pass harmlessly by. The major danger occurs if the vessel is
at or near the epicenter of the quake, where very large waves can be generated;
or if the tsunami proves dangerous in its propagation through a partieular
coastal configuration. A warning system is in operation, and is broadcast
through the NOAA Weather Radio as wel1 as'loeal radio stations. The probabil-
ity of this danger is certainly far less likely than many more mundane oceur-
renees such as storms, ice, etc.

Ice

This is a problem only in a limited sense i.e. it oceurs only in certain

glacial-fed areas and calm, care, and prudence will take one a long way through
these dangers. Passage through glacier ice as discussed here applies to the
Glaeier Bay section of this guide, as well to any of the other areas which may
have icebergs such as Hobart Bay, Tracy, and Endicott Arms.

Glaeial ice is almost always present in the northern arms of Glacier,Bay.

In the summer season the amount of ice varies considerably and different
glaciers may be more active than others. However, except for the occasionaI
berg in the main bay, ice wi11 be encountered in quantities mainly as one
approaches Muir, Tarr, Reid, and John Hopkins Inlets. The amount of ice
usually lessens as the season advances. The tides and winds move the ice up
and down the inlets, tending to pack it together or disperse it. However, the
 17

circulation of water near the glacial snouts themselves is erratic, since fresh
vater is always being discharged and the ice movements are correspondingly
unpredictable. DO NOT APPROACH A~Y GLACIAL FACE CLOSER THAN 1/2 MILE. Treat
large icebergs with respect and pass well clear of thern. After having seen an
iceberg roll over it will be easy to appreciate the reason for caution.

Glaeial ice forms as snow crystals accumulate and are buried by successive
falls which slowly change the crystals by pressure, resulting in changes in
density and crystal structure (a volume decrease of as much as 9 times occurs).
The denser the ice, the bluer it looks since air has been e1iminated and the
greater proportion of water molecu1es present absorb alI co10rs except blue,
which i5 transmitted. Thus the color of the ice gives clues as to its origin
-- white bergs have much air stilI trapped and come from near the surface, blue
bergs are true glacier ice formed deep be10w the surface, greenish-black bergs
come from near the bottom of the glacier, and striped brown bergs show layers
of moraine sediments from the side of the glacier.

Ice presents a different and much greater prob1em in winter, when in

addition to glacier ice certain bays are subject to sea ice, and vesse1s can be
dangerously hampered by the aeeretion of superstructure icing. The majority of
vessels using this guide should be snug in harbor during such times.

Mirages

Mirages are not in themselves dangerous. They occur because of temperature

and density variations in the air and are found at the higher latitudes of this
guide particularly where the mountains and their snow and ice coverings help to
provide these conditions. Glaeier Bay provides examples of towering - the
vertical elongation of distant objects; and of superior mirage - the appearance
of an inverted image above an object. Looming may occur here as well as in any
part of the world. This results in objects appearing to rise above their
actual elevation to the extent that things below the horizon may come into view
long before one would expeet to see t~em. Exeept for their interest, mirages
ean be accepted mentally and accounted far in one's navigation.

~ind ChilI, Clothing, and H'pothermia

These are a very important eonsideration -- even in summer, when one is

travelling in areas cooled by weather, nearby snovy peaks, and glaciers. The
summer climate in the northern areas of this guide i5 te~perate and tolerable,
~ith daily mean temperatures in the mid 50's (F), and maximums that can be as
high as the 80's and 90's. But when cool ~inds blow ~ith temperatures in the
50's and 60's the effect of the wind chilI faetor is to make the conditions
equivalent to much colder temperatures.

Cool \.-inds can cause a considerable amount of body heat loss and strong
cold winds can lower body temperature by causing a los5 greater than the
replacement rate. As this eondition is affected by any barrier to the wind's
effect, the va1ue of a good dodger behind which to shelter and windproof
clothing combined with several layers of under clothing 15 obvious. Except
when the sun's rays beat directly down on calm day5 it is worthwhile to wear
one's heavy weather suit as an outer windproof covering with several layers
consisting of sweaters, flannel shirts, and longjohns underneath. Gloves are
 18

necessary at times -- wool being the best in cold, and rubber fisherman's
working gloves best in wet conditions. Wool toques and/or balaclavas help to
reduce a major heat 10ss through the head. Scarves for the neck and woollen
socks in seaboots are also recommended.

Such cold weather clothing is needed because even in summer in these

northern waters, in addition to wind chilI, one may be standing or sitting far
long periods without sufficient activity to generage heat; and when in the
shade. or travelling on cloudy days, convective coo1ing can be another cause of
body heat loss •.

The mean surface water temperature in these areas in summer is about 60 F

(13 C). It will be lower in glacier meltwater-fed inlets, and it is colder
with increasing depth. If one is in the water for even fairl} short periods of
time the 10s5 of deep body heat can be crucial to survival. Much study has
been dane on the problem of immersion hypothermia and on survival times, and on
techniques to combat it. Both the Canadian and r.s. authorities put aut
pamphlets describing symptoms and treatment of hypothermia. These pamphlets
are worth obtaining and studying.

Every effort should be made to stay aboard. Safety harness should be used
whenever it is warranted. If a crew member does go into the water even minutes
count in the recovery. It is especially important to realize that a person in
cold water goes into shock quickly, and as hypothermia advances one may become
disoriented and unable to assist oneself.

The summer period (June to September) is the time of the highest occur-
renee of fog in the waters from the northern end of Vancouver Island to Alaska.
On the average there are 4 to 7 days of fog per month in this periodo Visi-
bility is reduced belo~ 2 miles for about 15% of the time, and below 1/2 mi le
far about 5% of the time. Fog ean also oecur at any other time of the year
whenever the air is moist and mueh ~armer than the water, but the average
number of days of fog drops well below that of the summer periodo

Advection fog plagues the major open water crossings of this section, and
sometimes works in along nearby coastal parts of the Inside Passage. Fog is
often cyclical over a period of severa1 days if the wind patterns stay.in the
same quadrante Considering the rocky coasts and dangers of the various
approaches, care and caution should be exercised in travelling at these times.

In the southern section of this guide the regime far fog is slightly dif-
ferent, and tends to oecur from September to January. though the Strait of Juan
de Fuca may a1so suffer fog in summer. Usually, between May and August the
inner waters of the southern area are free from fog.

Radar can be a valuable aid during passages in fog. RDF bearings are a1so
helpful but as mentioned elsewhere, the beacons may not be ideally placed.
However, one can use a beacon (as well as the sound of the fog horn) to
determine safe angles around a particular beacon or lighthouse.
 19

Tugs. Tows, and Log Booms

These are a common feature of travei in the Inside Passage. They are an
essentia1 economie 1ifeline for the coastal communities. Tugs and their tows
are not manoeuvered as handiIy as a yacht, so it is the responsibility of the
yacht skipper to take avoiding aetion when meeting them. Unless constrained by
the waterway give them plenty of room. Though it seems obvious, remember the
line between the tug and tow whieh is in the water between them. AlI tows also
traii a safety line some 200 feet behind them so do not pass close astern. At
night log booms have red hurricane lanterns lit to mark the outer limits of
their tow. Since these are fairly close to sea level and are not very bright
they are often difficult to spot.

FISHING LICENSES

The entire coastai area is a meeca for fishing and obtaining other seafood.
Licenses are required for fishing by the states of Washington and Alaska and
the province of British Columbia. There are daiIy and annual catch limits
described in the regulations far eaeh area. Lieenses are avaiIable through
most marine service outlets, fuei doeks, sporting goods, and hardware stores.
The type of lieence and approximate cast is as follows:

Washington - Resident annual license $ 3.25 ($US)

Non-resident annuai Iicense 3.25
British Columbia - One-day resident and non-resident $ 3.50 (SCan)
Three-day non-resident 10.00
Annual: Canadian resident 5.00
Annual: Non-resident W.OO
Alaska - Three-day non-resident $10.00 ($US)
Two-week non-resident 20.00
Annuai non-resident 36.00
Annual resident 10.00

An Alaska Fish and Game License is required for fishing in National Parks such
as Misty Fiords and Glacier Bay.

ENTRY PROCEDURES

The majority of pleasure boaters cruising in waters covered by this guide

will be citizens of Canada or United States and there are only a few rules and
forma1ities with which to comply. They are primarily aimed at stopping illega1
drug traffic and at preventing abuse af the customs and immigration laws of
both countries which pride themselves on their long standing apen border. The
major requirements are to check in and clear with Customs and Immigration, and
to obtain a Cruising Permit which a110ws one freedom to travel in the waters of
the country with a minimum of red tape. Entry requirements are listed on the
following page.
 20

Vessels and crew who are not Canadian or American may ha ve to follow more
detailed entry procedures. Cruising Permits can be obtained easily if one's
country has reciprocal arrangements with Canada and the U.S.~. Visas may be
needed for the skipper and crew depending on the nationalities involved.

Vessels must proceed to a Port of Entry without any landing, anchorage, or

meeting with another boato Ports of Entry are elearly labelled in the guide.
Only the skipper, or his representative may go ashore to report entry to
Customs. This can be done by telephone in many of the southern centers, or by
proceeding directly to the Customs Office. If one is caÌling in by telephone
the Customs Officers will arrange to come down to the vessel to check it in.
The person reporting in must return aboard immediately after reporting and
remain aboard unless clearance is given by telephone. Though there are some
small variations the customs and immigration la~s of both Canada and the Vnited
States require the following:

l. The yacht's registration, documentation or license papers

2. A letter or statement from the owner allo~ing the skipper to move the boat
if the owner is not aboard
3. Passports, birth certificates, or other aceeptable identification of
alI crew members
4. Visas where this applies to crew members
5. Limits to the amount of aleohol, beer, and cigarettes for each person.
Certain fruits, vegetables or other agricultural products may be prohibited
entry.
6. Dogs, eats or other pets should have a valid certificate far rabies
vaccination within the last three years.
7. Prescription drugs for personal use should have labels and have copies
of the physician's preseription or a letter from him stating the necessity
for their use.
8. Canada prohibits hand guns, automatic firearms, and mace; and applies a
criminal charge to anyone in violation of this rule. Hand gun regulations
are a state responsibility in the United States. To determine current
regulations far Alaska one must write to:

Alaska Dept. of Fish and Game

P.O. Box 3 - 2000
Juneau, AK 99802

Failure to conform to the requirements far declaration and check-in

procedures make the vessel subject to seizure and/or fines. Recent eases
include a $100 fine for not deelaring 1iquor on board in excess of the allowed
amount; $100 fine far being 24 or more hours late in reporting in; and $300
fine for persistent disregard of entry procedures by 10eal boaters near border
points.

~~ALE WATCHING

This is a highlight of any cruise in these waters. A sma11 crulslng vessel

provides many exce11ent opportunities to observe whales closely. The whales
one may encounter include four baleen whales: Gray, Humpback, Minke, and
Finback; and three toothed whales: Orea or Killer ~hale, and the Dalls and
Harbor Porpoises.
 21

Wha1es wi11 often maintain their eourse and pass near a smal1 vessel. The
chanees of collision are un1ikely, sinee not on1y do whales have good eyesight
but they have a sonar facility. However, it is important to maintain a good
lookout and take aetion to avoid a collision as needed. Also, never chase
whales, steer directly toward them, or corner them in bays or narrow inlets
where they might feel threatened.

Brief deseriptions are given for each kind of whale. To assist in identi-
fication at a distance sketeh silhouettes of the whale's blow charaeteristics
and surfaee attitudes are given. For more detailed information refer to the
many texts available on whales and dolphins.

Gray Whale

A stoeky whale having no distinct dorsal fin, the Gray whale may grow to 40
feet and reach 40 tons. It is sIate or gray in color with whitish patches of
barnacles and whale liceo A few grooves may be seen on the throat. Being a
slow swimmer its normal speed is 5 to 8 knots. It may be seen in the Gulf of
Georgia and adjacent bays, or travelling along the outer coasts as it migrates
from Baja to the Bering Sea each year.

Surfaeing & Blowing Beginning a Di~e Sounding (Diving)

~~~~"""S~__~...________L_.~#___

Orca or Killer Whale

This striking whale is black, with white patehes along the flanks and
bottom. It may grow to 30 feet and reach lO tons. Its high, triangular dorsal
fin may reach 6 feet in mature males but only 3 feet in females and immature
males. It is rarely seen alone as it travels in groups. They ean reach speeds
of 20 knots or faster. Its range includes alI of the areas of the guide but it
1S usually seen in waters south of Prince Rupert. This whale may be the most
familiar because several aquariums have performing oreas.
Page is missing
 23

Dalls Porpoise

Friendly and playful, they will come to cavort in the boat's bow wave.
Black with white patches on the belly. throat. and flippers. they could be
mistaken for killer whales except that they are sma1l (7 feet long) and have a
5mall dorsal fin. Porpoises lack the dolphin's beak. They are fast, and
travelling in groups they may be found anywhere in South East Alaska waters.

Rising Blowing Diving

DA.LL·S Polt.PDI S "

Harbor Porpoise

The smallest of the whales (5 to 6 feet), they are usually alI black or
brown. They are more aloof than the Dalls and rarely approach boats closely.
A small curved dorsal fin is in the center of its back. Sometimes alone,
sometimes in large groups, they can be seen hunting inside small anchorages or
passing nea. their entrances. throughout South East Alaska.

#
 24

SECTIOl'i I

Victoria to Campbell River

 26

VICTORIA AND SIDNEY

Victoria is the capitaI of the Province of British Columbia. It is located

on Vancouver Island and is a Port af Entry. It has many interesting and
attractive features which are ...elI y:orth exploring.
After entering Victoria Harbour proeeed to the Inner Harbour. There are
many choices for a stop-over. The traditional visitor's floats, enjoying the
best Iocation in the harbour, are 8ethe head of the Inner Basin and lie
directly in front of the ivy-clad Empress Hotel. The Parliament Buildings are
on the right. The floats are owned and maintained by the City of Victoria and
visitors are granted a period of free moorage. There are no facilities at the
floats, but their unrivalled centraI Ioeation i5 their main attraction. At
night the waterfront and several buildings are illuminated and a visiting erew
has a front seat. Customs mav be ealled for clearance from the dock. Further
aiong from the visitor's dock~ are the terminals for ferries to Seattle.
A Iittie further up the harbour (to ...ards the Johnson Street bascule bridge)
is a marked Customs jetty at the Rither Basin facility. Here one may enter and
clear customs without charge, seven days a week from 8 a.m. to midnight. If
one arrives after hours tie to the jetty and ... ait till morning.

Nearer the harbour entrance, starboRrd side on entering, are several

fingers of the commerciaI fishermen's docks. Though fil1ed for part of the
year, there is usualIy some space in summer during the fishing season when the
fishboats are out.

Victoria has maoy tourist attractions and maintains a pleasant "Old

English" atmosphere. Shops of al! types and quaIity abound. SimilarIy, a
great variety of good restaurants are availabie -- many within easy reach of
the Inner Harbour. Afternoon tea at the Empress Hotel i9 considered a "must"
by many visitors to Victoria. A visit to the Provincia l Museum (next to the
Parliameot BuiIdings) will introduce one to much of the heritage and resources
of B. C. LastIy, a visit to CapitaI Iron (1200 Store Street) will give a
mariner a chance to rummage through an old-fashioned generaI store.

Sidney is also a Port of Entry. It i5 a small suburb of Victoria 10cated

near the northern end of the Saanich Peninsula. When approaching the harbour
keep the red buoy to starboard and the biack one to porto A breakwater
protects the northern fIoats, those on the southern side being temporary.
Customs may be called from a pay phone at the top of the rampe Shopping
facilities are convenient1y Iocated on the main street.

The Anacortes-Sidney ferry dock9 are about 1/2 mile south of the smal1
craft harbour. The terminaI for ferries to the mainland i5 at Swartz Bay which
i8 at the northern of the peninsula.

Severai marinas and yacht club outstations are in the inlets forming Tsehum
Harbour. The approach to these facilities is shown on the 5ketch. When enter-
iog, AlI Bay and Van Isie ~arinas are on the port side. The latter marina has
a visitor's float and is a Port of Entry. Fuel, haul-outs, boat launching,
re8taurants, and other amenities are availabIe, while bus service to Sidney and
Victoria is conveniently close. Further into the iniet are other marinas and
yacht club outstations.
 VlcrORIA & SYONEY NOI to be used for navigation

Ports of entry
o
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.•.

S4,.,N,C.)f

(j
IANCOUVER.
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I

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5-rR.A\T or 1UA~ DE t="WCA

l. Esqulmalt 7. Thunderbird Park

2. Cruise Ship Berth 8. Crystal Gardens
3. Fisherman's Wharf 9. Empress Hotel
4. Ferry Terminals lO. Visitor Information
5. Parliament Buildings Il. Shops and Restaurants
6. Provincial Museum 12. CustODlS Dock
 28

FRIDAY HARBOR
Haro Strait, trending north from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, separates
Victoria and the Gulf Islands in Canada from the San Juan Islands in the United
States. The International Boundary passes roughly midway up the Strait. San
Juan Island is one of the largest islands in the archipelago, and has two Ports
of Entry in Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor.

Friday Harbor 'is the principal to,,'n of the San Juans. The harbor is in a
cove about a mile wide, with Brown Island set in the middle of the cove. The
north entrance is wider, is marked by lights, and gives directly on to the
town. At the northern entrance the University of Washington Oceanographic
Laboratories are prominent, with a pier extending out from the shore. The
southern entrance i5 a1so clear and can be used.

The town of Friday Harbor, with the ferry terminaI is in the western part
of the cove. Adjacent to the ferry terminaI is a large area of breakwater
protected city floats, where moorage can be obtained. The harbormaster has an
office at the head of the floats. Showers are available, and the town offers
many restaurants, shops and other facilities. Fuel and "'ater are available.
The Customs Office is adjacent to the breakwater near the seaplane fIoats, and
has a mooring slip for small craft. Vessels entering U.S. waters from Canada
or overseas can report in for clearance. Office hours are 8 a.m. to 5
p.m. Monday through Saturday -- Sundays and holidays, and after hours calI
800-562-5943. There are many other private marinas, docks, floats, and
facilities along the shore. Anchorage can be taken, however, in the cave, but
it is better southwest of Brown Island clear of the ferry's main route to and
from the terminaI. Many vessels are anchored out, and they indicate the area
availab1e which is clear of ferry traffico

Roche Harbor is at the northwest corner of San Juan Island, and is thus
closer to Vancouver Island, though almost as distant from Victoria as Friday
Harbor. Henry Island and Pearl Island give good protection to the harbor. The
main entrance i5 from the north, between Henry and Pearl Islands. Stay in
mid-channel. The various other entrances can be used, but are narrower,
obstructed in places by kelp beds and shoals, and are less convenient to use.
The main facilities are in the eastern portion of the bar, and are maintained
and run by a large resort. Anchorage is also available in the harbor.
There are floats for more than 250 boats. Fuei and water, marine
supplies, and provisions are available, and the hotel offers restaurant and other
services. The setting is attractive, and the old lime company works have been
used as a backdrop. Customs Officers are located here in summer. The Customs
float is near the fuel dock. In winter they are on calI from Friday Harbor,
(206) 378 - 2080.
Garrison Bar opens off Mosquito Pass, the narraI.' southern entrance to Roche
Harbor. The British Camp in the Pig War of 1860 was located here. Displays
and programs are presented to explain this historical incident which gave San
Juan Island a touch of notoriety.
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'I 1=l.4s. ROCHE HARBOR

SAN JUAN ISLAND

1000' o
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Appf"'O)(. ~Le. II\.IU..

ROC.HE. NOI lO be used for navigation

Ports of Entry

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 30

ACTIVE PASS

This is the most used of the three passes of the Gulf Islands, even though
it is the longest. ~ot only is it used by many yachts, but swarms of smal1
sportsfishermen frequent each end and the B.C. Ferries vessels meet each other
every hour within the pass on their routes to S~artz Bay or Tsawwassen.
Occasionally large deep-sea vessels, tugs, and 10g booms use the passo

During the springs the tides set t!ìrough the pas's at 7 to 8 knots. Even
during normal days the current is considerable. Small vessels, particularly
deep draft power and sail boats should use the pass at or near slack water. It
i5 generally possible to use the pass for an hour on either side of slack
~ater, though it is better to do so going ~ith the tide. But the concentration
of vessels during these periods of use near slack water requires a careful and
alert approach. The pass i5 ~ell lit, if crooked, and is used by vessels and
skippers familiar with it at any time. ~ost will find the passage best by day.
One of the greatest advantages of Active Pass is that it has anchorages
available on either side, as ~ell as within the pa~s.

The pas5 is deep and clear except for a well marked and lighted area at
Gossip Shoal near the eastern entrance and a drying patch ~ith a light near
Collision Point at the western end. These are more of a hindrance far large
vessels than for small ones, for the pass is quite wide. On any passage favor
the starboard side and allow far lots of room if a ferry is being passed or
met. They kick up a considerable wash which with any current bo11s or swells
can be most unsettling for small craft. Provided care is taken and the pass is
used near slack water the passage through Active Pass is relatively easy.

On the eastern side of the Pass one can find anchorage in either Wha1ers
Bay or Sturdies Bay. The former has the larger area, with drying shoals at its
ends and several rocky reefs along its perimeter. Enter in mid-channel.
Sturdies Bay has a terminaI far the inter-islands ferry, but there i5 a small
resort alongside ~here one may go. Beware of the reef that projects slightly
across the direct passage to the wharf.

\ù thin the pass itself one c<.ln find anchorage in :-1iners Bay to the east of
the ~harf at the village of Hayne. A back current can be felt here, but the
anchorage 15 other~ise comfortable.

Montague Harbor is at the ~estern end of Active Pass and its relation to
the pass is shown 00 the sketch. This cl B.C. ~arine Park and one of the most
popular anchorages in the Gulf Islaods. One may anchor, pick up a buoy, or
take a smal1 boat ashore on the shelving beach and campo There are the remains
of an old orchard here, ~hich can be fruitful in season. There are trails end
other facilities ashore. This anchorage is filled with boats in the summer.

In the 50uthern part of Montague Harbor is the inter-island ferry dock and
a government wharf. A srnall village, \'"ith astore and sane craft shops, is
situated here. Anchorage is not very good here. It is better on the 50uthern
side of the harbor, especially if one does not ~ant to be at the more crowded
end near the ~1arine Park.

Other anchorages ~hich can be found ~ithin a relatively short distance are
at fLllford Harbour, Long Harbour on Ganges Island and at Prevost Island.
-- -----::==---=-____
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ApPR.DACIo4IIJ~
$Mt,;",a "'. L:$bt
A.C.T'''E PA.'S.~ F~OM
~SI-42 $6_1
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Gulf Islands
ACTIVE PASS
(& Montague Harbour)
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Appro,... Sc.c:a.l& n."",.

Not to be used for navigation

ISLAND
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DETAIL- MO~TAGUE. l-iAR.BOUR
 32

PORLIER PASS

Located between Galiano and Valdes Islands, this pass is the next one to
the north of Active Passo It is much used by cruising vessels bound far the
Gulf Islands and by fishermen. Few deep sea vessels use this pass as Romulus
Rock at its western end limits the apparent opening.

This is the shortest and straìghtest of the three Gulf Island passes. As
such it would normally be the favored route, except that the underwater dangers
of the western si de make it less attractive far large vessels, while the lack
of immediate anchorages on either side reduce its appeal far small craft
awaiting slack water.

Though short, this pass should be travelled al or near slack water. The
current can reach 8 or 9 knots at springs, and boils and small whirlpools can
make passage hazardous far an underpo~ered small craft. But taken within 3n
hour of each side of slack water the pass is relatìvely straightforward.

Although Romulus Rock, on the western side is more of a hazard far large
vessels, far safety the best route through Porlier Pass is to hold about 600 to
800 feet off the light at Race Point. and set a course to pass oft of Alcala
Point on Galiano Island by a similar amount. This should take small vessels
elear of any effects of Romulus Roek. There are more shoals and rocky patches
on the northern side of Porlier, includiog a drying patch called Black Rock.
Thus it is recommended that vessels favor the southern side in passing either
way. There is not the same amount of traffie here as in Active Passo

A smal1 niche, just to the west of the lighthouse can give shelter. but
most vessels passing through Porlier proceed to one of the many anchorages
available io the Gulf Islands. A particularly nice little one is Retreat Cave,
about 6 miles south. on the west coast of Galiano Island. Enter only the south
portion, where the government wharf is built, far the northern section of the
cove and behind Retreat Island is shallow and is suitable only far very small
boats. Though the cove is 5mall it has good holding in mud, and there is space
at the wharf as we1l. The road ashore gives a pretty, ruraI walk with many
fine views of the area.

Other anchorages within reasonable reach of Porlier Pass are: North Cave
and Telegraph Harbour on Thetis Island, and Tent Island Marine Park which is
south of Thetis and Kuper Islands.

Fishing i5 productive at most passes and Porlier Pass is no exception. The

downstream ends of the passes are where the salmon congregate to feed, thus
swapping ends with the changing of the tide. This also makes for congestioo of
small fìshing craft which move with the tide and the salmon. When fishing the
passes, mooching with bait and lures seems to be the most succe5sful, follawed
by trolliog.
 \
Gulf Islands
PORLIER PASS
(& Retreat Cove)
NOl lO be used for navigation

o Ik. t 1~",'"
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600' ,%l'\,*,,
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 34

GABRIOLA PASS

This is the most scenic of the three passes. It has good anchorages on
each si de of the pass, and another one half way through the passo It is a good
location from which to commence crossing Georgia Strait to either Vancouver or
Welcome Passo

The eastern end, of the pass is fronted by Breakwater Island, which divides
the current. The dangers are marked, and a mid-channe1 course is clear of alI
problems. The constriction between Josef Point on Gabriola Island, and Cordero
Point on Valdes Island, is where the currents are strongest, and boils, swells,
and occasionaI whir1pools occur downstream of this area when the current is
running. Passage should be made at or near slack water--no more than an hour
or either side. Large power boats have been known to fai1 to make headway
against the full current and have had to turn back.

However, at the proper time the passage is simple and straightforward.

Once past Josef Point the opening to the north is Degnen Bay where go od
anchorage can be taken in its northern end near a public wharf. Continuing
through the Pass effects of the current are less noticeable and once through
the next section a vessel is free to roam the Gulf Islands.

On the Gulf Is1ands side a very good anchorage is at the Marine Park at
Pirates Cove in the southern part of De Courcey Island. ~~en entering the
enclosed harbor favor the De Courcey Is1and shore, heading towards the private
house, for a reef projects underwater from the spit, and is marked by a
concrete marker. At low water there may be less than a fathom over the rocky
sill of the entrance. Pass between the marker and a buoy marking a rock. The
cove is crowded in summer. The holding is in mud on rock, and with strong
winds it will be wise to 1et aut additional scope if space permits.

Silva Bay is one of the nicest anchorages on the Strait of Georgia side of
the Gulf Islands. The harbor is formed by the protection of the many Flat Top
lslands around a cove of Gabriola Island. Shelter is availab1e from alI winds
and seas, and there is room for many vessels. Beware of the plastic water
pipes 1aid across the bay from the vi1lage to Tugboat Island--vessels anchoring
in the northern part of the ~ay can often fou1 their anchors on these pipes.
The harbor may be crowded in summer since it is a popular pIace. There is a
yacht club outstation at Tugboat Island.
The entrance to Silva Bay is tram the east, through Commodore Passage.
Note the jog that must be made around the reef, marked with a concrete pedestal
and 1ight. Stay at least 60 feet off, far the reef extends beyond the marker.
Do not pass between the marker and the south shore.

Those familiar with the bay also use the passage between Sear Island and
Gabriola Island. At low water the maximum draft that can carried through this
passage is 6 feet -- rocks and other dangers show c1ear1y. This passage leads
to the entrance of Gabriola Pass behind Breakwater Is1and.

Thrasher Rock and Gabriola Reefs lie about 1 1/2 miles northwest of Break-
water Island. Pass north around Thrasher Rock, which is a good departure or
destination point to or from the mainland. Good fishing can be had around the
reefs and around Breakwater Island.
 Gult Islands
GABRIOLA PASS
(& Silva Bay Anchorage)

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 36

NANA IMO

This 1s the second largest city on Vancouver Island, and acts as a hub for
much of the activity in the centraI part of the island. It is the second major
terminaI of the B.C. Ferry Corporation which links the island and Vancouver.
It is also the home of the zany annua l Bathtub Race held in July, when hundreds
of dedicated entrants leave in their souped-up speciai tubs to race to
Vancouver.

Nanaimo is at the head of the Gulf Island5 area and can be approached from
the inside waters via Dodds Narrow5, which i5 north of Gabriola Passage, and
between Mudge Island and Vancouver Island. Similar to the other passes of the
Gulf Islands, Dodds Narrows can be traversed at or near slack water. The
harbor of Nanaimo lies ahead up Northumberland Channel.

False Narrows, to the east of Dodds Narrows, leads from Pylades Channel.
Though narrower and a little more complex, it can also be traversed at or near
slack water. A large scale chart i5 u5eful, though there are range5 in the
channel. Kelp is prevalent in summer.

Newcastle and Protection Islands lie in front of the main small craft
facilities in Nanaimo Harhour. Approach either from the north around
Newcastle, or from the south around Protection Island. Do not attempt the
channel between these islands, as it is shoal and encumbered by kelp. Mooring
buoys and anchorage can be taken in Mark Bay, which is part of the Newcastle
Island Provincia! Park. A foot ferry connects the island to Nanaimo.

Several sma11 craft facilities are along the Newcastle Passage shore of
Nanaimo. There are also severa l marked rocks, particularly "Rowans" Rock which
has bent many a propeller. Pass closer to the Newcastle Island side. There is
a 5-knot speed limit in the harbor.

The yacht club statian and the Port of Nanaimo Harbour basin in near the
southern part of the harbour, opposi te the end of Protection Island. The old
octagonal harbour bastion is a go od marker, though it now has a large, new
hotel rising behind it. There are many berths in the basin, which is control-
led by the Harbourmaster. As many fishing vessels moor here in winter, and are
out during the summer, space may be available. Showers and restrooms are
provided, while across the street is the Harbour Park MalI, with supermarkets,
restaurants, laundromats, and other facilities. Fuel floats are moored along
the harbour front; and repair yards are available.

The B.C. Ferry TerminaI is in Departure Bay, the northern part of Nanaimo
Harbour. The large ferries run every hour (sometimes more frequently in the
summer) to Horseshoe Bay and Vancouver. As they have a big wash, care should
be taken when encountering them.

When leaving Departure Bay the grassy hump of Snake Island is passed on its
north, and if bound far Vancouver across the Strait of Georgia pass also to the
north of the barren sandstone of Entrance Isiand. A Iighthouse and fog signal
are located on Entrance Island. If crossing to ~elcome Pass, note the comment
on page 6 of the Introduction regarding the restricted area designated as
"Whiskey-Golf."
 ,...../'"
/
I

AYlA4

NANAIMO
Not 10 be used for navig81ion

oI l
I
 38

BLAINE, WASHINGTON

Semiahmoo Spit helps to enclose the protected area known as Drayton Harhor.
Blaine, a V.S. Port of Entry is located on the eastern side of the harbor. A
protective dike and hreakwater encloses the port of Blaine. The port is
entered through an opening which is apposite the end of Semiahmoo Spit.

The eastern end of Blaine harbor (a subsidiary of the Port of Bellingham

which is operated by Whatcom County) has a series of long docks forming a boat
haven. The western portion of these floats are for commerciaI fishing vesse1s
-- the eastern floats are far yachts. The harbormaster'5 office i5 a 5ma11
building between these two sections and transient boat space is available
immediately helow this office.

The western end of Biaine harhor is commerciaI and inciudes a repair yard
with haul-out facilities, a tidal grid, and fish unloading docks. Use of the
tidai grid can be arranged through the harbormaster for a small fee. A fuel
dock is in the harbor while various stores are about a haIf mile away.

Semiahmoo Yacht Basin is an alternative which can be entered through an

opening in the floating breakwater hehind Semiahmoo Spit. Immediately to the
right, on the inside of the breakwater is a fuel station where temporary
moorage can be taken while the harbormaster is being contacted. His office is
in the elevated booth on top of the building behind the float. Transients are
usually berthed in the western portion of the basin where there are several
spaces available. Facilities here are very clean and include a laundromat,
showers, and astore handling sundry items. Any major shopping will have to be
done in Blaine, which though only a couple of miles away by water i5 about 7
miles around the scenic road which skirts Drayton Harbor.

Anchorage can be taken in Drayton Harbor west of Semiahmno Yacht Basin.

The sketch shows the extensive shoal area. Southerly or southeasterly winds
can kick up a nasty chop in the harbor.

Entry into the o.S. can be easily made from either marina. CalI U.S.
Customs at 332-6318 from telephone booths ashore and clearance may be obtained
either by phone or an inspector wi1l come out to inspect the vessel and crew.
After 5:00 p.m. or on Sundays and holidays calI 800-562-5943.
Blaine i5 a 5mall border town, so if any major refitting is needed, better
price5 may be obtained in Bellingham or Seattle (a short trip by bus) or across
the border in Vancouver.

WHITE ROCK, BRITISH COLL~BIA

Acros5 the bay i5 White Rock, a Canadian Port of Entry. A long pier
protrudes from the shore with a short break~ater at right angles to the end.
Proceed around the breakwater to the dock on the eastern side. A calI can be
made from the "telephone booth at the shore end of the pier to Canadian Customs
at 531-7581. An inspector will C08e to clear the vessel after a short delay.
After obtaining a Cruising Permit one can sail in Canadian waters with little
red tape. A long, wide, sandy beach extends on either side af the pier.
 BLAINE, WASH.· WHITE ROCK, B.C.
Ports of ent ry

---------- -' ----- ------

o 1

Appr"OJ(. 5co.Le; n.. M.

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. Not to be used for navigation
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 40

POINT ROBERTS, WASHINGTON

Point Roberts projects below the 49th parallel, and thus this small penin-
sula is U.S. territory. A very attractive marina is built on the southern side
of the peninsula, and it is strategically placed for access from the well
populated lower mainland (Vancouver and environs) to the Gulf and San Juan
Islands. This makes it one of the more popu1ar marinas in this area.

The design of the marina is striking. It is arranged to allow the tidal

flow to flush out the yacht basin, while affording the vessels in it the
maximum protection. There is berthing capacity for over 1,000 boats from 20 to
70 feet in length.

Enter the basin from westward, passing between the shoreline and the
breakwater. Do not enter from eastward, as it is shoal. The entrance curves
towards the west of north. Fuel floats are on the starboard si de when enter-
ing. These float5 are a150 used for awaiting Customs. CalI 332-6318 on
weekdays (8.00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.) or after hours and on Sundays and holidays
calI 800-562-5943 for clearance. Usually clearance is given on the phone.
Take a pen along to make a note of the clearance number in case any reference
is later needed. Remember that only the skipper can go ashore to report, and
no one else should leave the vessel until clearance is granted.

There are good facilities at the marina and include a travel lift haul-out,
marine supplies, and nearby stores. Restaurants and other services are nearby.
Across the border 1s Tsawwassen, a part of Delta, where many more facilities
are available. From Point Roberts it is only Il miles across the Strait of
Georgia to Active Passo However, since Point Roberts is U.S. territory one
must enter Canada if one plans to sail across to the Gulf Islands or to proceed
northward. Point Roberts is well suited to a route travelling direct1y north-
ward to Vancouver, where one can enter and clear customs or if one is returning
to the south. However, if one ""ants to visit the Gulf Islands on the northerly
trip one can take advantage of the prevailing winds (NW or SE) to reach down to
Boundary Pass around the south end of Saturna Island, turning up and entering
at Bedwell Harbor on Pender Island. One can then leisurely cruise up the inner
Gulf Island5 as one travels northward. Bedwell Harbour customs station is
maintained in summer from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Monday to Saturday. Entry
can also be made at White Rock (see Blaine) but this means back-tracking a
considerable distance.

If one enters Canadian waters (at White Rock or anywhere else), and on
travelling along the coast, wishes to stop near Tsawwassen but not enter Point
Roberts, there is a 5mall area just south of the long B.C. Ferry TerminaI mole
that can be used as an anchorage. Boats of the Tsawwassen Yacht Club moor here
in summer though it is open to winter storms. Enter close by the southernmost
ferry docking structure, where a deep channel runs along the south side of the
mole. After about haIf a mile it widens into an anchoring basino A shallow
bank with about 1 to 1 1/2 fathoms borders this route to the anchorag~.
Painted oil drum buoys are sometimes used to mark the passage.
 >< ..
R.~"~If:;" •.. '.
. e>.....n;
~
' ..."... . ..
'
..... .......... ..0 POINT
, \
'. ROBERTS, WASH.
'.'

Port of ent ry
:
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,Jf Not to be used for navigation
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-. .... ..... ~'-.

CIUlM Area
. al 1)~. ~''''J t"fo.
Phon.. .ww G15~. '.

HOU$C.6

-
DETAIL
 42

VANCOUVER

Vancouver i5 the principal city of British Columbia and with its surround-
ing municipalities Greater'Vancouver has aver l million peop!e. almost ha!f
that of the province of British Columbia which has a population of about 2.2
million. This is the largest city in the area covered by this guide. It has
its own specia! attractions as well as the disadvantages of big cities any-
~here. When Captain Vancouver sailed past First Narraws into Burrard Inlet in
1792 wha cou!d have imagined that a city such as this wauld graw fram the
densely wooded shores of sue h a primitive land.

This city enjoys one of the most beautiful natura! harbors in the world.
The surrounding mountains offer a seenic backdrop as weli as good skiing in
season. The mild Pacific coast climate allows year-around sailing (though
winter's cooler weather requires a heater for comfort aboard).

Beginning from the south and proceeding narth\>'ard the centers of popuiat ion
Delta, Richmond, Vancouver, ~orth Vancouver, and ~est Vancouver -- wil1 be
discussed.

Deriving its name from being part of the delta of the Fraser River, Delta
is a sprawling district on the south side of the Fraser River. The two
significant landmarks seen as one sails northward are the B.C. Ferries TerminaI
at Tsa~~assen and the huge Roberts Bank Coal Port development. The silt of the
Fraser River has laid two large shallow banks -- Roberts Bank off of Delta and
Sturgeon Bank off of Richmond. Both banks are well buoyed and courses past
them should pass well away from the extensive areas af shoal water.
The South Arm of the Fraser River exits through a buoyed channel protected
by a breakwater which ends at Sands Heads Light Station at the edge of the
bank. North af the river is the municipality af Richmand. The south arm of
the Fraser River is navigable by deep sea vessels as far as the Port of New
Westminster, about 20 miles upstream. Cruising yachts can go in to the small
town of Steveston far fuel, moorage, and provisions, though this is mainly a
commerciai fishing vessel center. Captain's Cave ~larina is 9 1/2 miles up the
river from Sands Heads. From ApriI till July the melting snows that feed the
Fraser cause freshet currents that can run to 5 knots. Upstream travel is
dependent on these currents and the state of the tide.

Richmond extends between the North and South Arms of the Fraser River. It
i5 one of the largest residential suburbs of Vancouver. Included in this area
is the expanse of Sea Island on which ~ancouver International Airport is
located. Depending on the prevailing ,,'inds the jets land from inland or come
in over the Strait of Georgia to the runway. Entrance to Richmond marinas is
through the North Arm which exits just south of Point Crey. There are severa l
marinas at the southeastern end of Sea Island. The Arthur Lang bridge has
clearance of 65 feet while the airport swing bridge beyond it has only 18 feet.
Many of the marinas are south~'est of this bridge.
The high bluff of Point Grey marks the tip of the peninsula on which
Vancouver proper is lacated. Immediately behind it are the extensive lands of
the University of British Columbia.
 rA
E. Side, Str.of Georgia
'I
:
VANCOUVER AREA
Poi",t

MARINAS - DOCKS, FUEL, ETC,

Jf C
I
Fisherman's COlle
Coal Harbour
- WVYC. EHYC, Thunderblrd Manna. luel
- RVYC,VRC, Commerciai docks, luel, see detail map
M Burrard Bridge - Cillic Marina, luel, boat launching
N Jericho - Royal Vancouller Yacht Club docks
R False Creek - leverai marinas
V Richmond - lelleral marinas, tuel
X Stelleston - tishboat docks, tuel
Y Fraser Riller - Captain's Cove Marina. luel. boat launching
PARKS' ATTRACTtONS

A Horseshoe Bay - BC Ferry terminaI. docks. fue\. lIiews

B Whyteclifl Park - walks. dilling. views
D lighthouse Park • PI. Alkinson Lighl. walks, views. large trees
E Grouse Mln - Skyride. view. restaurant. Skitng (winter\
t:
F CleVf~land Dam • Canyon Park. walks, views, tourist allractions
l'
H Amblp,side Park • beach. vlew
l.
I. I Stanley Park • 1000 a [404 Ha\park. walks, zoo. aqUartum
l' J Gastown • shops. curios, restaraunls. lounst allractlons
l'
K Chinatown - North Amerlca's 2nd largesl. shops CUriOS
,
I
L Expo 86 - World Transportation Exposilion. B C Piace Stediun
....."., . ' M
O
Kitsilano
Spanish Banks
• beach. Maritime Museum. Planetarium and Museun
• baaches. views
I p University 01 BC • Museum of Anthropology. Nitobe Japanese Garde'
I
Q Granville Island • public market. shops. restaurants. manne supplies
S VanDuesen Bot Gardens· tske. orientai and other garc1f'ns
T Oueen Elilabeth Park • garc1ens and consp,rvatory for Iropical plan!s
Z Tsawwassen - Be Ferry terminai. nl'arby lown wlth Sf'rVlces
StU"'Jfon SHOPPING CENTRES
~400'\k'
(The four maior centres easily accessible by bus. car or walking are shownl

G Park Royal Centre • Marine Drive in West Vancouver

J Downtown Vancouller - several malls and large stores
U Oakridge Centre • 41st and Oak
W Richmond and • No 3 Rd . Richmond
Lansdowne Centres

Note: For Touris! Information on Greater Vancouver • phone 682-2222

\:\,, .
;
Robe ... t~
NOI lO be ust!d for navigalion
, '"
........
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 44

Point Grey and Point Atkinson to the north mark the 3 1/2 mile wide
entrance to Vancouver Harbor. Spanish Banks extend out for 1/2 miIe; a light
and belI mark the northwestern edge of this bank which is covered at high
water. The outer harbor inciudes English Bay and it Is used an anchorage for
freighters as well as by myriads of pleasure boaters from the city for ree rea-
tional use. The Royal Vancouver Yacht Club Station, protected by breakwaters,
lies midway along English Bay.

Most Vancouver marinas are in False Creek (between the downtown city center
and the residential area of Kitsi1ano) and Coal Harbour (east of First Narrows,
tucked behind Stanley Park). Other marinas are in Burrard Inlet and Indian
Arm, but they are Iess convenient for the transient boater.

The Burrard Street bridge marks the boundary between False Creek and
English Bay. The distinctive buiIdings of the ~aritime Museum (large A-frame)
and the McMillan-B10edel Planetarium and Museum complex (onion-shaped) are
easily identified on the south shore west of the bridge. Both the Burrard and
Granville Street Bridges (to the east) have a clearance of 90 feet. The north
bank of False Creek is the site of EXPO 86 -- a world's fair with a
transportation and communication therne held in 1986.

The Burrard Civic Marina, Coast Guard Station, and a fuel barge are to
starboard just before passing under the Burrard Street bridge (westernmost of
the two bridges). Strong tidaI eurrents fIow through this passage. Transient
moorage is not available at this marina.

Fisherman's Wharf lies between the two bridges. In winter this is filled
with fishing vessels, but in summer space is rented to pleasure eraft --
transient vessels can try for space here. A harbormaster's office is near the
gate at the south side of the complex. Several other marinas are within False
Creek but space is usually taken by Ioeal boats.

The entrance into Vancouver Harbor proper is through First Narrows and
under Lions Gate Bridge (clearance of 200 feet). Tidai currents of up to 6
knots run through the Narrows. Large vesseis have the right of way through
First Narrows because of their limited manoeuverability in confined passages.

The magnificent green expanse of Stanley Park (1,000 acres of woodland and
park facilities) is we11 worth visiting. The lighthouse at Brockton Point
marks the eastern tip of the Park. After rounding the buoy which marks Burnaby
Shoal turn southwest to enter Coal Harbour, where mooring is available. Fuel
barges are anchored on the eastern side of Stanley Park. On the Stanley Park
side are the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club Station and the Vaneouver Rowing Club
facilities -- both private clubs with which reciprocal club arrangements may
allow guest rnoorage for transient boats. On the Vancouver waterfront there are
moorings at the Bayshore Inn (the home of many charter vessels) or at the
marinas towards the west (reiatively less expensive moorage).

The sketch map indicates the Iocation of the various attractions in

Vancouver. Tourist information offices, hotels, and most businesses wi11 be
glad to give assistance and advice for visiting centers of interest or
generally finding one's way around this beautiful city.
>

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 46

KEATS ISLA~O ANO GIBSONS

Howe Sound is a popular sailing area, not only because of its protected
waters but also because of its proximity to Vancouver. With its many islands
and anchorages and considerable water-borne traffic, it is 1ess deve10ped than
one would expect. It is a short day's run out of Vancouver, as a first step in
the trip up the coast. Occasional1y it is used to avoid rough seas in the
Strait of Georgia. Although there are several anchorages in Howe Sound on1y
the one at P1umper Cove Marine Park on Ke'ats Island will be described.

Located at the southwestern entrance to Ho~e Sound, Shoal Channel lies

between Gibsons and Keats Island. The bar that gives the channel its name has
on1y lO feet of water at low tide. Opposing wind and currents cause short
steep seas in this channel which is often filled ~ith small sportsfishing boats
"mooching" for salmon. Oepending on the draft of one's vessel the channel is
normal1y passable on rising tides -- a mid-channel course is best.

Plumper Cove Marine Park is on the western shore of Keats Is1and, with
Shelter Islands to the southwest providing a lee. The islands are joined by a
drying 1edge. Six or seven mooring buoys are in the cove. There is a smaii
dock ~hich a few sma1l vesse1s can use. Beyond the grave 1 beaches is a
campground. 5fLft... ,f~ \
Gibsons is a small town on the Seche:lt shore of Howe Sound. A breakwater
protects the harbor which has a marina apd government dock. Though crowded in
summer, transient vessels can sometimes ~queeze in. Fuel, water, and provis-
ions can be obtained here. The highway ~hich commences at the Ferry TerminaI
at Langdale (about 2 miles north aiong the shore) passes through Gibsons on its
way up the Sechelt Peninsula to Powell/River. A 10cal ferry connects Langdale
to Vancouver from this terminaI. ~

Steep Bluff is the easily recognizabie point at the southern end of

Gibsons. Some drying rocks extend roughly northeast from the foot of the bluff
into Shoal Channel.

Other anchorages in Howe Sound include:

Center Bay is a small cove in the western side of Gambier Island midway
into the long bay. Good anchorage can be taken here.

Halkett Bay is the small, easternmost bay on Gambier Island. It is a good

anchorage although care must be taken to avoid a rock near the center of the
bay at its head.

Fishermans Cove located in West Vancouver has no anchorage as it is filied

with floats of the West Vancouver Yacht'Club and Thunderbird Marina. One may
sometimes find space at these docks. Enter as sho~n on the sketch, to the
north of Eagle Island.

Point Atkinson Lighthouse is a prominent landmark south of Fishermans Cove.

It is the datum for many tidai caIculations along this coast, and marks the
entrance to Vancouver Harbour.
 KEATS IS. & GIBSONS

HOWE SOUND
'=======d1~====~~~======3~,======~t~·~
V\ .......

,r~LA..-..JD
 48

SMUGGLERS AND SECRET COVES

Though passage up the Strait of Georgia can be accomplished on either side,

the popular route is along the mainland coast. Therefore, from Silva Bay or
Nanaimo vessels will cross the Strait to either Howe Sound or dìrectly to the
Sechelt peninsula (known as the Sunshine Coast). Merry Island, with Welcome
Passage between it and the mainland, is the usual terminaI for the crossing
because of Merry lsland Light and its proximity to Smugglers and Secret Cove5.
Welcome Passage is straishtforward and clear.

Smugglers Cave, on the mainland, comes very shortly after passing out of
the northern end of the northern end of Welcome Passage. The opening i5 no more
than 60 to 80 feet wide and is marked by a Marine Park sign on the northern
side of the passage. Favor the north or port side when entering, staying
fairly elose to the rocky cliffs where deeper water is dvailable.

Once through this passage the co ve opens up. In this outer area protected
anchorage is available. Ahead lies a 5mall island with a home built on it. By
continuiog 00 between this island and the north shore (stilI favoring the north
side) a fairIy sharp turn to starboard takes one into the inner basino Here,
safe and protected by the hills and islands, quiet anchorage 00 good holding is
available no matter what the weather is in the Strait. The space is not large,
but as the depths are about 1 1/2 fathoms, several vesse1s can be aecommodated.
Do not anchor in the smal1 cove opening to the north, as it is quite shallow.
On1y small sportsfishing vessels can anchor here. In order to accommodate the
many vessels which congregate in both anchorages it i5 common practice for
boats to drop the bow hook and tie a stern line to the trees or rocks ashore.

The sharp bend may seem to limit the size of vessel that can enter the
inner anchorage but 40-foot vessels can enter without difficulty. Although
Smugglers Cove is a B.C. Marine Park and is a very popular anchorage, there are
no facilities at this site.

Just 2 1/2 mi1es further up the eoast is the popular Sechelt harbor of
Secret Cove. Many marinas and facilities are available including fuel docks
and resort hotels. The Jolly Rodger Inn 1s one of the more popular places for
dining 00 this coast. There is a Royal Vancouver Yacht Club outstation and the
special1y formed Sechelt Yacht Club which was responsible for CANADA I and its
entry in the 1984 America's Cup Races. \\hen entering Secret Cove leave the
entrance light (located on a drying ledge) to starboard. The cove is congested
with no space for anchoring.

Other anchorages can be found nearby, mainly in the adventuresomely named

Thormanby Islands. Anyone who has re ad Treasure lsland can't help being
thrilled by islands having features which bear such names as Buccaneer Bay and
Spy-Glass H111.

.... e.l", f .......

tJal4:ot>"'. P..ss
 E. Slde, Str. of Georgia

SMUGGLER'S CaVE

SECRET caVE
Not to be uled for navigation

o, i, 2-, '5
5
Appt"'Q)(. Sc.at~ l'\,~,

" ..
Smuq~,.'s Cc\4! .
:(Sc,c: cl&tc:-il belo..» ".

" ".

5MLiGGLE.tes ·aÒVE
"~":~~:.;"":::.::":: ·t~~/":: t~oo+
A .. p~..';' •• "~le,;.:f;ct.
 so

PENDER HARBOR

This popular harbor has a narrow entrance which opens into an extensive
basin with many fingers and small bayso It has been developed into a busy
sports fishing center with several marinas and communities scattered along its
shoreso The only pIace left for anchorage is in front of the Garden Bay Marine
Parko

The entrance to the harbor looks complicated because of the many islands,
but it ìs not difficult if a mid-channel course is taken between the isIandso
The light at the north end of Williarns Island marks the south side of the
entrance which is about 400' wide o A speed lirnit of 5 knots is enforced in the
harbor (past the entrance) because of the numerous docks and fIoatso

Irvings Landing Marina is located in Joe Bay (immediateIy to port on

entering) • ~1oorage, fuel water showers, and other serv ices can be obtained
t I

hereo There are many other resorts and marinas further inside the harbor, alI
offering moorage, boat rentals, and other faci1ities. Madiera Park in
Welbourne Cove in the southeastern part of the harbor is the largest of the
small communities that make up Pender Harbor.

From Pender Harbor a side trip via 8-mile long Agamemnon Channel leads to
Jervis Inleto This 44-mile fiord with high mountains on each side leads to
beautiful Princess Louisa In1et (6 miles from its head)o The entraoce to
Princess Louisa Inlet is picturesque ~alibu rapids which can ooly be passed at
slack water (preferably high water slack)o The current and overfalls in the
narrow passage preclude any other time. Slack water occurs about 24 minutes
after high water for Point Atkinson and 36 minutes after low water. The actual
time is better displayed by the cessatior of white overfalls in the channelo
Vessels drift off the entrance waiting to enter; on leaving the docks of Malibu
Lodge (run be Young Life, a non-denominational Christian organization) can be
used for waiting and to admire the fantastic view.

The steep-sided. 4-mile long inlet ends at Chatterbox Falls, where the
Princess Louisa Marine Park maintains some floatso The spectacular scenery of
this location is well worth the side trip if the ~eather cooperateso

On the return from Jervis Inlet another picturesque anchoragè is to be

found behind tiny Harrnony Islands in Hotham Sound. Another spectacular
waterfall -- Freil Fal1s -- tumbles do~n the steep mountain walls.
 E. Side, Str. of Georgia

PENDER HARBOUR
l/ Not to be U5ed for navigation

\ y-
_À_ \/
\1/-
. .ttl Co ............ A
o'.._ _ _~*='====~"- _ _ _==.,,..,..;J; ".....
5o:.Alt "" .......

of:"

• •••
Whitut..u r,o
 52

PO~~LL RIVER - WESTVIEW

The actuai town of Powe11 River surrounds the mili which is conspicuous
because of the talI power piant stacks and their plumes of smoke. The pu1p
mill is run by McMillan BIoedel and it is the town's main supporto The harbor
near the miI1 (behind the sunken ship breakwater) is a booming ground for 10gs.

The city harbor is at Westview, a residential suburb south of the mill

site. A Iarge rock breakwater extends on either side of the B.C. Ferry Dock.
The northern basin is a pleasure craft marina that is filied with permanent
moorages. The southern basin is public and the wide floats are shared by both
fishing vessels and transient yachts. Enter at the southern end. The harbor-
master's office is in a buiIding at the side of the main ferry pier. A fuei
barge is moored in the southern corner of the harbor, and the many tanks on
shore are visible as an identifying feature when approaching the harbor.

There are stores and restaurants nearby, larger shops are within a mile and
taxi service is avaiIable. Buses and airlines Iink Powell River to Vancouver.

Grief Point is the low sandy point about 2 miles south of Powell River. It
is backed by many residential houses. The point marks the turn from Malaspina
Strait (which can be quite windy) into the more open vater of the Strait of
Georgia. On the south si de of the point there is a small marina behind an
enclosing rock breakwater which can be used as a refuge if the winds are
strong. Turning space at the entrance to the marina is quite limited, so do
not enter too quickly.

Lund is a small town at the end of the coastal road from Vancouver. A
steel pontoon, wooden pIank, and steel frame breakwater protects a smaii niche
in the rocky coast. Entrance is around either side of the breakwater, through
30- to 40-foot openings. The smali harbor has public fIoats, a government
wharf, and a fuei dock. Note the black buoy marking a rock between the floats
and the wharf. A launching ramp allows power boats from distant ports to
cruise Desolation Sound. >eP- ,fJl~ .

DETAl L

OF

WODd t. 5tc.c.L LUND

çl.ocs..tl~
f,~wa:\:v
Not to be used for navigation

I 3.......
-'
oI 100
I
'200 ,
! ,
 PQWELL RIVER WESTVIEW
N 01 IO be used lor navigalion

DErAIL - WEs-rvr f.W

~ A. Cl ~DR'5
 54

DESOLATION SOUND ANCHORAGES

This pretty and deservedly popular area is ~orth a slight digression off
the direct passage route to the north. B.C. Marine Parks cover much of the
most attractive areas. There is often over-cro~ding during the summer months
when many yachtsmen from the Pacific Northwest congregate here during the
summer vacation. However, several different anchorages can be chosen.

Desolation Sound opens to the northeast as one rounds Sarah Point at the
tip of Maslaspina Peninsula. On a lovely summer's day it is difficult to
reconcile the name that Captain Vancouver gave this beautiful area.

After passing the bold shape of Zephine Head, Galley Bay opens up. It i5
open to the north but go od anchorage can be taken in calm weather. Tenedos Bay
lies ahead. Give Bold Head a wide berth as a dangerous rock lies close to it
while Ray Rock and its reef lie offshore. Once into the cliff-edged, deep bay
there are three choices far anchorage. On the eastern side is a cove with a
beach and a stream descending from Dnvine Lake. A stern line ashore i5 neces-
sary. Other anchorages are on the shelves on either side of the island in the
northwest head of the bay. The island is connected to the shore by a drying
ledge -- anchorages are in the narrow coves on each side. The holding is
moderate (rock and mud), stern lines ashore are helpful. Several rocks are
located on the shore of the island thus anchorage close to shore is inadvis-
able. Except for occasionaI gusty winds the area is qui te well protected in
the lee of the cliffs and the island.

Severa! anehorages further along Homfray Channel are around the bulk of
land forming Bold Head. These are the Prideaux Haven anchorages noted below:
Otter Island anchorage lies between the island and the mainland. It is a
narrow, but navigable space with room far one or two boat5. Avoid Sky Pilot
Rock (dries) which lies about 1/4 mile north off the entrance into the channel.

Everleigh Anchorage is the southwestern cove between Everleigh Island and the
mainland. A drying reef connects the island to the mainland and separates this
anchorage from Prideaux Haven on the south~est side.

Prideaux Haven and Melanie Cove are entered through the narrow channel between
Luey Point (the east end of Everleigh Island) and Oriel Rock (part of the
William Islands group). The passage is clear in mid-channel. A drying rock is
elose to Lucy Point and a shelf extends a short distance south of the point.
Prideaux Haven anchorage lies to the west where it is fairly open and deep.
Melanie Cave is past Melanie Point to the east. This is a long, narrow cave
with clear, green water. A stream empties into the head of the bay. The
shores of the co ve are deeded to the Universit~ of British Columbia. Please
heed signs asking that no fires be lit ashore and that alI garbage be removed.
Laura Cove is entered between Copplestone Point and a rock off the east end of
Copplestone Island. The entrance is narrow but easy. No passage should be
taken between the rock and the island. This i5 an attractive, good anchorage.

Roffey Island anchorage is entered from the north, off Homfray Channel and is a
very snug anchorage for a maximum of two boats. Drying ridges on the sides
reduce the available space.
 \-
ApP2.a.a..c~I""_ TMl. ,E:.NTR.A.NCE. IO
PR.IDEAUJt. HAVE.N

Sk.)' Pilot. Il. ... ~

(P..",~IILOt,lS)

NOI IO t.. ul~d for naviia\!on

c: !iL 1,,-...
_' ,J.,.,:
App .... o .>t . 5Co.lc ... ..:..

DE50LATIOItJ

SOU ..... D
ANCHORAGES
in
.-.
....
ir:
'
DESOLATION SOUND

-TENEDOS BAY

-PRIDEAUX HAVEN
 56

CORTES ISLAND ANCHORAGES

This is an island ...,ith a ...·ealth of gaod harbors that are loIell worth
exploring. The anchorages wil1 be described in a clockwise sequence, begin-
ning trom Mary Paint (the southeast corner of the island).

Mary Paint is rocky, Idth a tew stunted trees. To the north are tWQ
islands dose to shore connected by drring ledges to Cortes Island. AbDUl l
mile east of Mary Paint is the first harbor.

Cortes Bay must be approached by steering to pass ...·eli cleaT of the three
small, white, rocky islets and the drying, rocky ledge neaT them. At the
entrance to the harbor theTe is a rock ... ith a lighted beacon which should be
kept to starboard 00 entering. A public ...·ha rf and float is 00 the west side of
the bay. Anchorage can be taken almost any...,here in about 4 or 5 fa thoms , soft
mud bottom. Allow plenty of scope far holding is moderate and sometimes .... inds
funnel into the bay. In the southwestern part of the bay i s the Cortes Bay
Marine Resort where moorage is available for a ree . Fuel. food, and othe r
amenities can be obtained.

Sulil Point is the southern end of Cortes Island. t.:si ng Baker Passage pass
outside the lighted red bouy to clear the shoals extending south from Sutil
Point. The route turns north .... ard towards other Cortes Island anchorages.

Hanson's Landing 1ies behind some small is1ands o n the shore of Manson's
Bay. A drying 1agooo lies beyond. A public wharf is available or good anchor-
age cao be taken, mud. Astore. fuel, and other facilities are availahle.

Gorge Harbor has a unique entraoce. The "gorge" forming the .entrance is
not a true gorge. Although the western si de 1s steep and high, the eastern
s1de is much lower. On an approach from the south the t...,o sma ll Guide Islets
indicate the entrance. Pass 00 either side of these islets (not between) then
passage through the gorge 1s taken. The entrance is about l/2 mile long -- the
narrowest part (about 200' wide) being quite short. Currents cao be fell Ioo,· hich
sometimes reach 4 knots, but passage is allo'sys possible. At the inner end pass
between sma ll, bare, rock~' Tide Islet and the s teep western shore. A public
wharf. and good anchorage off of i t i s to the northwest. ~loorage is also
available at the marina or one can anchor in the eastern side of the harbor.
 ,
\
,,
\ CORTES ISLAND
~EA.D
,
\ ANCHORAGES
\
\
\
\
o, ,
,
ApPr"Olt. SC.Q~
2,
".~.
~ ... -. Jf

4~~
!}G IElo.KER.NE.

So" &O'N

RE DOt-JDÀ.
ISLANO

~aC.f
(S. dd.i~
u.ct JIII9C l

D E So LA.TIO "-

".: ...
'.,
\.~" ....;: ..
~:: ' .,."
. \ ~ .. """;;
M.:vl"'-A' l';"::."
,, __ ,. , t'..... -'
~ .. ~w.:- .•
(J
I

'l/t··: '" ,
Pow~LL r~
I ; ' '.~
&vO'j À:.~:~ , "
 58

Uganda Passage is a little pass between Shark Spit on Marina Island and
Cortes Island. Although it appears tricky it is quite easy as it is well
marked with buoys. Stay within the buoyed channel, keeping the black buoys to
port and red buoys to starboard when westbound. Currents are about 3 knots at
springs. Since they are affected by northern tides the flow floods north and
ebbs to the south. Anchorage can be taken behind Shark Spit. The shallow
shelf that runs around Marina Island drops off sharply into deep water -- care
must be taken. It is said that the island is named after Marina, the Indian
mistress of Cortez who interpreted far him during his conquest of Mexico.

Whaletown is in the small indentation of ~haletown Bay. Enter from the

south, the shoals and rocks being marked by beacons. A public wharf is
available, though space may be limited. Keep the seapiane area clear. Few
facilities are available, but a walk up to the tiny church in the village is
worthwhile.

Coulter Bay is the next stop where good anchorage can be taken in the lee
of Coulter Island. Enter as shown on the sketch.

Carrington Bay is a large bay with a drying lagoon. Though anchorage can
be taken at the head of the bay, the many rocks and the effect of the currents
exiting the lagoon make this a less than ',Iorthwhile anchorage.

Quartz Bay is smaller the previous bay but i5 more acceptable. Enter via
the northeastern channel. Good anchorage can be taken in the inner south-
western part of the bay, behind the islets, in about 6 fathoms.

Von Donop Inlet is a 3-mile long, narrow entrance inlet which has excellent
anchorage with complete protection. The entrance has a rock. about w.id-
channel in the passage at the narrowest part (about 3/4 mile in). The rock has
5 feet over it at low water. Proceed slowly when entering, keeping the depth
sounder ono Pass on either side of the rock, though the west side is slightly
more favorable. The higher the state of the tide the less the concerno No
other difficulties are encountered. Anchorage can be taken almost anywhere
in the widening near the lagoon where ttere is some effect by the out-going
current; or further in near the head in 4 fathoms, good holding bottom.

Squirrel Cave is a very popular anchorage because the inner cove is weli
sheltered and offers many places far vessels to anchor. Enter the cove only
through the opening south of Protection Island. The west and northwest arms of
the bay are shoal, but several of the other fingers offer anchoring spots
though lines ashore will be needed to restrict swinging.

A government wharf is at the village of Squirrel Cove at the south side of

the outer bay. A small float offers space for a few boats. No water or power
is available.

REFUGE COVE, WEST REDO~DA ISLAND

Across Lewis Channei from Squirrei Cove is the very popular summer Iocation
of Refuge Cove. Where Squirrel Cove offers good anchorage, this cave has a
well stocked store and mooring floats with water, fuel, showers, Iaundry and
other facilities. The cave can be entered on either side of the unnamed island
at the entrance, though the south side is usually preferred.
 DETA'L- 5QU1RRE.L COVE

(OR.1"ES
1$:.

Desolation Sound Anch's.

J(
REFUGE CaVE
_.-._._
o.. ... _~_._._ .. _.-
.
SQUIRREL caVE
0..._ _ _ _ =====.di'!:...___-...___..ilo'l .....
A Ppt"D.I'. SG4le. 11\ ......

Not to be used for navigation

..
~ .~:'"-~_ .. ~
, ..... "':"~~
PAb
COVE.
('~ls.
LocA.·'nolJ PL.AI>J
 60

SECTION "

Campbell River to Port Hardy

 t 7- 12"-

Not tO be used lor navigation

·~"~h
"'.1:

5 •

i
I!
,J
 62

CAMPBELL RIVER

Campbell River is situated at the south end of Discovery Passage. and it

lies almost exactly midway along Vancouver Island. It is the center of
activity at the north end of Georgia Strait, and the main town in this area. It
i5 a1so a weli known fishing resort. famous for the large tyees or spring
salmon that are caught here. Almost every facility from marine hardware to
clothing, groceries, and fuel can be obtained here. Store5 of every kind,
laundromats, beauty shops. and repair services are fairly close to the docks.

Tvo rock breakvaters angle out from the shore to protect the floats far
moorage. The southern basin is the larger one and has public floats for both
pleasure craft and fishlng vessels. The harbormaster's cffice 15 in a smaii
buiIding on shore near the walkway leading from the wharves. A nominaI fee ls
charged for moorage. The docks are often crowded and rafting may be necessary.
The northern basin is privateIy owned, and is next to the Quadra Island
Ferry terminaI. There is less float space than in the public docks, and this
marina charges very high rates. For example. temporary moorage for a 35-foot
ves seI was $5 per hour~overn~gp~raye was several times higher than
at the public floats. ~~ ~ ~f~p}

Hoorage is always crowded at Campbell River in the summer. There are some
alternatives such as anchoring in Gowlland Harbor or tying to the dock in
Quathiaski Cove. The ferry can be used for getting across to Campbell River.

There is a government dock and floats in the south end of Quathiaski Cove,
next to the ferry dock. Rafting is almost always necessary. A fuei dock and a
repair yard are in the harbor. The cave can be entered on either side of
Grouse Island. The current stream does not affect the cove, but sweeps
strongly by creating tidal rips near the entrance.

ApriI Point is about 1 mile north of Quathiaski Cove and is the loeation of
an expen~ive fishing resort. The flagpoles of the lodge are prominent at the
poiot. The landing dock at the lodge is meant for Iodge skiffs. The small
marina eonnected with the lodge i5 about 1/2 mile southeast along the inner
shore of the point. Rates at the marina are expensive during summer, though
one does have aecess to the lodge and its facilities. Anchorage is good beyond
the marina, but the head of the cove is shoal.

Gowlland Harbor can be entered north of Steep Island and Gowlland Island,
taking care to avoid Entrance Rock. Anchorage can be found behind Crow and Doe
Islands. Many private docks line the harbor. Do not attempt the pass south of
Gowl1and Island leading to the cove at ApriI Point as it has many rocks.

On the east side of Quadra Island ,good anch0rage can be taken in the Marine
Park at Drew Harbor behind Rebecca Spit. There is a government dock at Heriot
Bay. There is no public transportation on the island, but people wili often
give one a ride to the ferry, enabling one to reach Campbell River.
 Discovery Passage Anch's.

-CAMPBELL RIVER

-QUATHIASKI COVE

-GOWLLAND HARBOUR
Not to be used for navigation

.'
..:, ,\ ... .,
o

f, ...~cak.W4.ht"
I

i>i~"e.roJ ~"fln ...

I (PrillCLte..)
I

"
I
 64

SEYMOUR NARROWS AND DISCOVERY PASSAGE

This famous passage, with its high-velocity tidal currents, appears to be

a big obstacle when approached for the first time. Ho_ever, as the B.C. Coast
Pilot points out, navigation through the passage is simple if done at, or near,
slack water. For most of the passage a mid-channel course is alI that i5
needed.

When going north leave Campbell River against the last of the flood (which
sets south) p1anning on being at Seymour Narrows at slack water. It is about 8
miles from Campbell River docks to the south entrance of Seymour Narrows. At
Race Point, on the fIood, there are rips and swirls that occur well to the east
of it so give it a wide berth on passing -- it is less disturbed on the ebb.
If Seymour Narrows is taken at the slack there is little prob1em in passing
through. The stream now turning favorable. it might be carried alI the way
through Johnstone Strait, but if anchorages are needed several are available.
A similar pattern should be fcllcwed when going south, i.e. taking the
northern part of Discovery Passage against the last of the ebb to reach Seymour
Narrows at Separation Head about slack water. Again. the passage should be
simple and the favoring stream will carry one to Campbell River or cut past
Cape Mudge.

Anchorages are available on either side of Seymour Narrows to allow passage

through at slack even if the turn is to an unfavorable direction. Since the
velocity of the stream can increase quite rapidly an hour or so past the
change, it behooves a slow vessel to reach its anchorage before the current is
too strong.
The blasting of Ripple Rock (a double-headed rock at the southern end of
Seymour Narrows) in 1958 with the largest non-nuclear explosive charge has
reduced the tidal disturbances that used to occur. Ho~ever, the rips, whirl-
pools, and swirls associated with the current at full strength are stilI
awe-inspiring. Only large vessels with speeds in excess of 17 knots can
attempt the channel at times other than near slack water. Nevertheless, this
can be dangerous, and large vessels have been swamped ~hen caught in the
violent rips and whirlpools. If one is in the passage at other than slack
water remember that the vessel going with the current has less contraI than the
one going against it. It is strongly recommended that travel through Seymour
Narrows be done only at, or near , slack water.
Anchorages on the south side of Seymour Narrows are:
- Campbell River, Quathiaski Cove, and Gowlland Harbour
Menzies Bay, behind Defender Shoal (if anchorage close to the Narrows is
needed.

Anchorages on the north side of Seymour Narrows are:

- Otter Cove at the end of Discovery Passage
- Granite Bay in Kamish Bay
- Plumper Bay towards its southeast corner, keeping clear of the shoal area
- Brown Bay on the west shore, opposite Plumper Bay, _here there is a small
resort with mooring slips behind a floating tank-car ~r:a:wat~r. Fuel, water
and other supplies are available. 41 S~ 4~
 At'1dt'•. ~ tJ. ~dc:
_ ~DW" fla.y (MI1If'ÙAA.)
p Plv.... p&... ~)I
/ - ])CCpW~ bay

(
".../:.._-----
/ .
/
SEYMOUR NARROWS
DISCOVERY PASSAGE
1
J...ppr"O.K.
t.lotc.s :
I. A.t:t.a""pt pl1ssa~~ a.t. Ot" lU'aI" ~a.::.1.:.
wa:t.!... ot'l1.y.
2. Choose tM tide So "lO&) will leCh'(
wLth 4 f.o.II'Of"AbI.e ~~"'''-A_.
~. F,.~:*t WIMS OppDS....\C~ Ih~ tidaL
str"eGM cause .daVl.ger'DLI~ -ract~, .... ipsJ
~O'\d c.Mi'~, cspe.C.iDJJ.1.a.t fjrae
Ncvr"ot41s J at ~~ PD,itt, So Capt l'fvdge.

Not to be used for navigation

. Jf

A",h·.. O" S.•i..d.&:

- eo....,-b&lLthll'" {~I;..a\.
• tiiowu...ut JI......tn: eu ,...ya,.... t a"'''''DWS (J.,.~ show.,
- ~'&i~'PJc.y. ..
as. duf'i"9 1hc t't\./2i.... p4..t Df.
1t1L fide.
 66

OTTER COVE

This cave lies at the north end of Discovery Passage, ~here the channel
turns almost at right angles to become Johr.~to~e Strait. Al the point of the
turn there are lighthouse keeper's huts on Chatham Point, but the light itself
is erected on Beaver Rock almost 1,000 feet north of Chatham Point. The light
is on a white painted steel tank on top of a ~hite polygon-shaped concrete
base. The foghorn of this station sounds every :0 seconds in fog, from a small
building on the rocky point to the west of the light. This separation of
light, houses, and foghorn is notable because jf one is approaching the turn in
fog and is without radar, it is important to plSS to the north and east of the
light. It 1s dangerous to hold close !O the shore in fog since rocks off the
point prevent passage between it and tMe light. Swirls occur around the light
on the flood.

Immediately south of Chatham Point th~re is 3 tiny cave ~ith a cable strung
across it to moor the keeper's boats. l~o snall islands, Rocky lslets, lie off
the south side af Chatham Point. They are connected by a drying rocky ledge
and have other ledges extending around their s:des.

Otter Cave can be entered when south of the Rockv lslets, between them and
Limestone Island which lies in the mouth of th~ cave. The island is rocky and
about 60 feet high with shrubs and some tre03. South of Limestone Island,
between it and Slab Point (the southern point of Otter Cove entrance) there are
shoal areas with kelp. Do not enter Otter Cove through this southern passage.

Anchorage can be found in the cove well in towards the head, in 5 to 8

fathoms t mud and rock. Though strong current~ and swirls aceur in Discovery
Passage just outside the entrance, the anchorage is relatively unaffected.
This cove is a convenient base either to wait for slack water when travelling
south down Discovery Passage, or to wait for quiet conditions in Johnstone
Strait when proceeding up the coast. The cove offers good protection from the
westerly winds of summer.

Several other anchorages in this locality are:

- Turo Island, across Johnstone Strait from Chat~3m Point hilS an anclorage hehind
it in a cave on Thurlow Island. Take care on entry from the east tO avo id
reefs occurring on both sides. A logging camp ~as Iocated here.
- Rock Bay, on Vancouver Island and south of Turn Island is not an anchorage.
The government pier has no float, and currents s"-'eep t he bay.
- Chameleon Harbour and Thurston Ba)' are around the corner in t-iodales Channe1,
and offer several anchoring location5. A Forest Ranger Station i5 at the
north end of Thurston Bay.

STRAIT I 7JoDALE5 C~AI\.IUEL

1> I .5 C. O Il t: e. y PAs,s A c;. E
 Co GSw~ c:;>
NW, U!. -tt'"Ot'1t4. M.cu:l,.. Chathawt Po,;"t .
..................
...................
STRA', .........
\
\
\
\
\ , 50· '2.0' tJ
\
\ Jf
\
\ UJ
\
\ ~
\ -<
......:...,

" \
\
\
\
\
\
'«"
~
V)

\
\
\

OTTER COVE
~

DISCOVERY PASSAGE O
I,J
Not to be used for navi9lltion

-
V1

y
No 4Kft',)'
O -r T E:. f{ CD VE F RO M N EI oF F
 68

RACE A~D CURRENT PA5SAGES

The eastern portion of Johnstone Strait from Chatham Point to Ke1sey Bay
(about 21 mi1es) has steep mountains alI along the southern side, with no
chance for anchorage along that shore. There are mountains also aiong the
north side, but they are not as high, and severa1 large channels open into the
5trait joining it to the northern passes. Though the passage has much beauti-
fuI scenery it has its drawbacks for small vessels.

This relatively narrow part of the Strait has strong currents, made more
turbulent at certain areas such as Ripple Shoal, and Race and Current Passages.
Strong summer northwesterlies can kick up seas that make it a testing passage.
Sometimes too, summer fog hangs on in this part of the channel when the
remainder of the inside waters have had it burn away. To add to this there is
the constant parade of alI sorts of vesseis hurrying to or from Campbeii River.

Mayne Passage enters Johnstone Strait on the north side, opposite Ripp1e
Point. A short distance west, Knox Bay on the north shore is deep but can
offer some respite from the westerly wind and sea.

Chancellor Channel enters the Strait about 12 mi1es along, also on the
north side. Helmcken Island, with Current and Race Passages on the north and
south sides respectively, and Ripple Shoal lie in this area. Avoid Ripple
Shoal, which causes eddies and rips, staying c10ser to the shore. The shoal
lies in the red sector of the light on He1mcken Island.

Larger vessels observe a traffic separation pattern, with westbound craft

passing north of Helmcken Island in Current Passage; and eastbound using Race
Passage. 5mall vessels do not always heed this requirement. The current can
run to 6 knots in these passages, and it is always a good feeling to get by
them. If an anchorage is needed, Bi11ygoat Bay on the north side of Helmcken
Island can be used. Enter with care, for there are several rocks, is1ets, and
shoal areas though the entrance is clear.

Eari Ledge extends off Hardwicke Island for about 1/4 mile into the
channel. Stay well clear of the light marking its end, for there is a lot of
turbu1ence. Across the Strait there is the valley of Sa1mon Bay, with the
5ma!l communities of Sayward and Kelsey Bay on the western side. Kelsey Bay is
described in the foIlowing page.

~~ .

. ~.~
-_·-?~V--_·;-
~ ~-- ~. -
/.,

-: AJtC.Tlc. T,Il."'
 RACE & CURRENT PASSAGES
o ~ 1 t~n""
~,--------*'========~'---------'
APP"'D~. ~~a.Le.. n.l\'\.

...
. -
~ ~ .....~ [~. 1.0.
-_-:..

(/l.w./(.;utl)
HEL.MC.KE.N 15.

DETAlL - B'LLyGOAT .5AY

o~, ____HÒ
~==~== ......;
ApP,..Q)jI. SCAle.
~,4 ..
__,,li.__-=====__ 'L. " ...
 70

KELSEY BAY

The centraI portion of Johnstone Strait (beginning after Race and Current
Passages to Port Harvey between East and West Craeroft Islands) is busy alI
summer. It is often uneomfortable to pass through this seetion when proceeding
up the coast. Yet alI vessels must pass this way, since the different routes
through the passes meet in Johnstone Strait near Kelsey Bay.

The current seems to run westward for long periods, and the tide and
current tables will often show a eontinuous ebb current even while the water
level is rising with the flood tide. This is a eurious feature of the basins
and si11s of the various passages, one that eonfuses many transient skippers,
but the tide and eurrent tab1es are to be believed. Since the prevailing
wester1y winds seem to develop their strongest foree through this seetion it
can bui1d seas against the ebb f10w that make this passage 1umpy and uncom-
fortable. Travel as early as possible in the day helps to put this seetion
behind one, or hope for a ehange in the weather to rain that everywhere else
one hopes not to see. As the day progresses boats sometimes temporarily give
up the battle and look for little niehes or proper anehorages to get a rest
from the seas.
Kelsey Bay is 00 the Vaoeouver Island (south) side of the Strait, at the
mouth of the Salmon River. The wide and shallow delta of the river has six
sunken freighters forming a breakwater far a booming ground. This feature, the
buildings behind at Sayward, and the numerous tanks identify Kelsey Bay. If
strong wester1y winds are b10wing against a high ebb tide in the Strait heavy
tidal rips will be encountered off Kelsey Bay. Alternate anchorages are
sometimes justified when these rips are partieularly turbulent.
The sma11 craft f10ats are behind the rock breakwater west of the prominent
ferry slip, where one is protected from the wind and sea. The fuel dock is
behind the high pier beyond the breakwater. It is quite small and is exposed
ie wash §htpu~ th~ji!in~_and thus is not satisfactory as an overnight stop.
ee...~.
Sunderland Channel enters Johnstone Strait west of Kelsey Bay. On its
north side the large opening of Blenkinsop Bay looks attractive. It can be
used as an anehorage in calm weather, but westerlies tend 50 blow into the Bay.

Tuna Point anchorage, behind the little point and Mary Island gives better
protection but it has limited space. The old 10gs that once helped to protect
the bay are gane. The middle and eas5 part of the anchorage have kelp -- care
is needed in setting one's anchor. McLeod Bay is very smal1 and can only offer
protection to a single boato
~--------~
-_.--_---- - DETAIL - TUk.lA POlf·Jr A)..JC\-IORAGE.
C::===::::I:==~br-=====:::J~~

KELSEY BAY

JOHNSTONE STRAIT
·0 1. ! 'l
~ft~
I
_.~---====-----====d- ____===d'
_ Ap p ~OIC • &o.le v\. K4 •
Not tO be used far navigation

&.,y
HA2DW 1c..1C.E
ISt..A.ND

~~y -tide ~i~.J

~ aYl ~bb ~Dlt
witt.. W'ly w,;"ds
'5eL .::ie.ta.~ \ . I
RAC.E.
 72

YUCULTA RAPIDS ANO OENT RAPIDS

Two routes lead from the north end of Georgia Strait to Johnstone Strait
and thence on to the waters of northern British Columbia. The Seymour Narrows-
Discovery Passage route is more direct although it is influenced throughout its
length by currents. It is heavily used by commercial fishermen, tugs, etc.
The alternative route uses the northern passes and is more interesting while
the high currents at the passses are interspersed by str~ches of calm water.
Yachtsmen tend to favor these northern passes. I

The entrance into this northern route is through Calm Channel which is
between Stuart and Sonora Islands. Stuart Island settlement is in a tiny cove
north of Harbott Point at the southern entrance to Calm Channel. There is a
small government dock with two floats attached, and the fuel float is beyond
them. Space is limited, and it can be crowded in late summer. Astore and
restaurant are behind the dock. Several cabins are scattered along the shore.

~hen travelling north, leave the Stuart Island dock about one hour before
the tide turns to the ebbe (Remember the flood runs south and the ebb runs
north in this channel.) Hold close to the Stuart Island shore till off Kelsey
Point then cross over to take advantage of a back eddy along the Sonora lsland
shore. Swing clear of Sea Lion Rock. A light is on the east tip of the
largest Giliard Island. The pass is immediately north of the light. One
should enter Gillard Pass no more than 20 minutes before high water siack. The
current tables are essential far correct timing, for the change in current
direction does not always coincide with the tidal change.

Barber Passage lies northeast of Gillard Passage. While free of dangers,

it is not as convenient to use. Big Bay lies to the east of these rapids and
is a resort which has a government dock. It is very crowded in summer.

Dent Rapids are 2 miles northwest of Gillard Passage along Cordero Channel.
The narrowest section is about 1/4 mile wide. The strong currents at peak
create a standing wave off the tip of Little Dent Island with a large whirlpool
"Devil's Hole," occurring down current. Favor the Sonora Isiand shore to avoid
these turbulent waters. Do not pass close to Littie Oent Is1and for the back
eddy will push one towards the whiripool. When travelling south pIan to be at
Dent Rapids at low slack. Since this occurs 25 minutes prior to Gillard
Passage one enters it at the right time to pass through Yucuita Rapids about
1/2 hour into the flood. Do not attempt Tugboat Passage between Oent Islands
as 10cal knowledge is essential. Mermaid Bay is frequently used by log booms
and pleasure craft find little space here to anchor.
!5ot1.ol"'a I~ .

c:.C1\-. c...h a",.,eL

A. p P 20 A C.H I ~ Go
o STuAR.."f b. ~ '{UC.ÙLiÀ ~P\.D5
 YUCULTA & DENT RAPIDS
Not to be used for navigation
O___________~~,==_=_=====1~,__________
~~".

App"o"c, 5c.alL 1'\,"",

LUI'"t"Ut{ 5t"'~d",S lIl"'C

'hDlo\lr1 a' ct tft.f.. 1M4.~
p4 ... t 01 1ttc. t'ide..

SONORA
-
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4')

P"IJC.tdlftl) IIp
4.t !he l4tst Df ,~,

!hL ~lood
 74

GREENE POINT RAPIDS

Cordero Channel continues in a northwesterly direction following the
passage of Dent Rapids. At Hall Point, the northern tip of Sonora Island,
Nodales Channel leads off from Cordero in a southwesterly direction to join
Johnstone Strait near Chatham Point. The northern pass route continues along
Cordero Channel.

Shoal Bay is on the south side of the channel about 2 miles from Nodales
junction. A government dock with a long pier leading ashore is at the south-
west corner of the bay. A boardwalk leads to an old hotel. If the small float
at the dock is fully occupied one may anchor west of the dock in 3 - 4 fathoms.
mud. The head of the bay is shoal.

Two miles further west another large bay is on the south side. Bickley Bay
is a convenient temporary anchorage if it is necessary to wait far passage of
Greene Point Rapids. If one is carrying the favoring current from entering
Gillard Passage just before high slack, one can expect to pass these rapids.
They will be well into the ebb, and though milder than Dent or Gillard they
should not be treated lightly.

Greene Point Rapids are a T-shaped meeting of channels. Cordero Channel

continues along the head of the T, while Mayne Passage leads southward to join
Johnstone Strait. At the junction there are severa l groups of islands that
narrow the passage and which should be passed with care. The ebb shows swirls
and small overfalls from south of Cordero Channel for a considerable distance
west along Cordero Channel. Slow vessels ne ed to favor the south shore to
avoid being pushed towards Griffith Islet, on which there is a light. On the
flood, going east, swirls and currents extend past Erasmus Island -- a slow
vessel should avoid being set towards the island.

Anchorage can be found in the Cordero Islands, approaching as indicated on

the sketch. The islands block most of the effect of the current. Chart No.
3566 and other publications mention Cra~ford Anchorage behind Erasmus Island,
but this appears so restricted by rocks, and current flow that it i5 not
recommended.

Blind Channel is a mile down Mayne Passage on the west side. This well run
resort provides a welcome rest stop. The government dock is in the southwest
part of the bay, with floats on either side. The south side is public, while a
private marina is on the north side. Groceries, showers and a laundromat are
available in addition to an excellent dining room. A walk along a forest trail
will take one to Thurlow Cedar which 1s more than 20 feet in diameter. Fuel
and water can be obtained at the float.

Tide and current effects shduld be kept in mind when'entering or leaving

Blind Channel. Rips and eddies are encountered through the narrow section of
Mayne Passage. Charles Bay, roughly opposite Blind Channel appears to offer
anchorage. But it is shoal, and current effects are felt in the vicinity of
Eclipse Island in the middle of the bay.
 GREENE POINT RAPIDS

Ro o, .... NOI IO be u$ed lor "... i9llI iO"

li. {
, 1\
,
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 76

WELLBORE CHANNEL

Cordero Channel continues west from Greene Point Rapids for 3 1/2 miles to
join Chancellor Channel. A light on Lyall Island is at the junction. Lough-
borough Inlet extends 18 miles north of this junction. The ebb effects of
Greene Point Rapids are felt as far as this point.

Chancellor Channel leads southwest for about 7 miles to join Johnstone

Strait east of Helmcken Island and Race and Current Passages. If the weather
is calm this exit into Johnstone Strait can be taken to shorten the distance to
be travelled. However when strong westerlies are blowing they create disturbed
seas in Chancellor Channel (as well as Johnstone Strait) and the side-step via
wellbore Channel can offer more miles in comfort.

For a slow vessel running the northern passes ali together, the ebb will be
well advanced by the time the entrance to ~ellbore Channel is reached. The
channel can be taken if the tides and currents (as given in the tables), are
not large. But for the bigger tides, or if any tide is too far advanced one
should wait to enter ~ellbore Channel nearer slack water.

Small craft can find anchorage in the little bays on either side of Shorter
Point depending on the direction of the wind. The anchorages are very close of
shore. If possible other anchorages should be chosen for overnight use.

The effect of the currents are felt throughout Wellbore Channel. The main
current effects are at Whirlpool Rapids off Carterer Point. The north-flowing
ebb has a narrow center section with large back-eddies and whirlpools on each
side. The eastern back-eddy, together with the effects from Forward Harbour is
strong. Entering Forward Harbour when the ebb is strong will require consider-
able power and it is bes t avoided. On smal! ebb flows the current effects are
diminished, but swirls and currents sweep out past Althorp Point almost across
Bessborough Bay.

The south-flowing flood effects extend south of Carterer Point, with the
strongest back-eddy and whirlpools on the west side. 5ma!l floods have lesser
effects and a vessel could pass through even at mid fIood.

Forward Harbor is an attractive anchorage. Except when the ebb is strong

the narrow entrance channel can easily be negotiated. Douglas Bay is the best
anchorage, where several boats can anchor off the muddy beach. The depths
drop off fairly quickly. Protection is good in westerly winds, but if strong
easterlies are expected the 10g booms which are often lined up aiong the south
shore may offer more shelter. A logging camp is near the head of the bay.

In Sunderland Channel a small anchorage can be found in the lee of Murray

Islet in Topaze Harbor. There is little other shelter in this "harbor." Strong
westerlies in Johnstone Strait also affect Sunderland Channel. The seas are
not as heavy due to the shorter fetch. Sunderland Channel enters Johnstone
Strait west of Kelsey Bay. Most vessels keep to the north shore, except when
avoiding the rips off Gunner Point. If the seas are bad, respite can be found
in the bay east of Gunner Point or in HacLeod Bay, Tuna Point (see page 70), or
Port Xeville, as described on the next page.
 ..... .--
NOl 10 1M u,ed lor l'I~vi9l ! ;on
...........:.
, ----/----~ - - ~", ; .. . . :

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-;.;:
 78

PORT HARVEY, JOHNSTONE STRAIT

This excellent harbor lies about 3 miles off Johnstone Strait in an inlet
between East and West Cracroft Is1ands. The entrance is wide, but there are
several dangers that require attention when turning off the Strait. Broken
Islands lie to the east of the point where Havannah Channel joins Johnstone
Strait. There are two large islands, several islets and many scattered rocks.
A light is shown on the southwest tip of the largest Broken Island, which is
steep-to on this side. A route can be taken through the Broken Islands but it
is better to keep to deep water to round them. One may even anchor among them,
but as it is exposed with better anchorage nearby it seems a foolish risk.

Escape Reef is about 1/2 mile off the south shore of West Cracroft Island.
and 2 miles west of the Broken Islands. Hull Rock is a detached rock off the
southeast shore of West Cracroft Is1and. and about 3/4 mi1e west of Domville
Point. The channels between these dangers are sufficient1y wide for small
craft, the main concern being to set a course to avoid going too near the rocky
dangers. Routes favoring the Broken Islands side simplify navigation.

Open Co ve is a small cove on the east side between Transit and Harvey
Points. It can be used as an anchorage in easter1y winds, but is open to
westerlies and the swe11 they create in Johnstone Strait.

Port Harvey can be entered north of Broken Islands. It is at the end of a

two-mile inlet. While there is also anchorage north of Mist Is1and. it is
fairly restricted by rocks. The best anchorage is beyond the sma11 float house
at Tidepole Inlet in the basin at the head of the bay. At the northeast corner
there is an old government dock, and some of the land behind is designated as a
Marine Park. Anchor anywhere in the basin to the west of aline between the
government dock and the northeast end of Range Is1and. East of this line the
wide, deep appearing bay is actually shoal and marshy. The depth in the basin
is 4 to 5 fathoms, good holding in sticky mud. There is space for many boats
in this sheltered harbor.

The narrow inlet to the northwest is actually the channel between East and
West Cracroft Islands, and the sides are banked by meadows. Some northwesterly
winds enter through here, but the effect in the basin is small.
A route up Havannah Channel through Chatham Channel (which is narrow but
well marked) leads to Minstrel Island. a very popular pIace in the summer.
There are floats, astore, and other facilities. Fishing is good.

Port Neville, about 12 miles east of Port Harvey along Johnstone Strait,
can also be used as a respite from the winds in the Strait. It is not a good
anchorage as it is fairly long and is disturbed by tidal currents and some
weather. The best bet is at the government dock which is about 1/2 mile in
from Ransom Point, but this location is often crowded in summer.
 I l

we ~T ',.'
CflAè~OF'T
...... .

1s LAND PORT HARVEY

":',,::' .

JOHNSTONE STRAIT
o 'k
I '

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Not to be used for ".vi~tio"
Su Ul... Ck.:wt !st'1
fo... qCf\e.-4l [ota t"i.o",~

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ApPrc:.OACl-l To
 80

ALERT BAY, CORMORANT ISLAND

This town is the center of much of the activity in northern Vancouver

waters. The town and a major Nimpkish Indian village are almost inseparable,
and lie along the southern inner curve of Cormorant Island. The comma-shaped
island lies where Johnstone Strait ends and Broughtan Strait begins.
Southwest of Alert Bay the Nimpkish River flows out of Vancouver Island. A
large bank, which dries in some places and is shoal elsewhere, extends a
considerable distance out from the Vancouver Island shore. Two beacons mark
the edge of these shoals. Vessels should stay well over to the Alert Bay side
from these beacons, and as the currents can be strong the course should be
checked often.
There are many wharves, fuel terminals, and docks along the Alert Bay
waterfront. Perhaps the simplest way to orient oneself on an initial visit
here is by the totem poles. Near the southern end of the town the totem poles
in the clear space of the Nimpkish Buriai Grounds stand out. Thev are indeed
impressive, and a walk along the road will give one a closer look. Signs are
posted asking visitors to stay off the sacred grounds. Please heed these
signs.
A few hundred yards or so to the north there is a government wharf and a
float. There is seldom much space here as it is right in the center of town.

About l mile northwest of the Burial Grounds there is a talI totem pole on
the hili behind the old three-storey Indian School. At one time this was the
tallest totem pole in the world. About midway between this totem pale and the
burial grounds (north of the ferry dock) the long face of an angled rock
breakwater is seen. The entrance to the small craft floats is around the
northern end of the breakwater. When the fishing fleet is out, usually in the
beginning of the week, there is plenty of room at the floats. But when the
fleet is in port there may not even be sufficient space for rafting. ~~
J~ ~~

There are several fuel floats along the waterfront. A very strong current
runs along the shore and this must be taken into account in one's manoeuvering
in this harbor. The many facilities include a supermarket, laundromat,
hospital, drug store, post office, hotels, and restaurants. Severai craft
shops are on the main street.
On the hill above the town the antenna of Alert Bay Coast Guard VHF Radio
is conspicuous. The weather broadcasts 00 Ch. 21, 26, aod 2054 kHz are given
several times daily. They are a welcome source of information along this
coast.
Some significant distances related to Alert Bay are as folIows:

Campbell River to Alert Bay 83 miles

Kelsey Bay to Alert Bay 41 miles
Port Harvey to Alert Bay 29 miles
Alert Bay to Soiotuia 6 miles
Alert Bay to Port Hardy 26 miles
Alert Bay to Biunden Harbor 24 miles
 h .

..-._---

:"
'.-'.
.. :".
: .. _-.:......:
.'.
ALERT BAY

CORMORANT ISLAND

VI.""'.
NOI IO be used for navigalion

'.'

..... " .'."

F"I. I.I.I.A..... , :....
Sc,",-, .... !IL •••

ST"1i!4/T

.
\
.-...... \ Se~ III.e..,tt P<1<:jL. 6". C4o'1 .
..... . C.k4..-t Il ~S,,"q .far posit'o....
r'l!lat"Ld -+o Ma.IL.Dr~ 1~14.,d
Q.lo\.d "o..lII.c...Du"~r Isla...t..::f. .
 82

SOl NTULA , MALCOL~ ISLA~D

Ma lco lm Island was settled by Finnish immig r ants of th~ Kalevan Kansa
Colonization Company in 1900 in one of the first attempts at a socialjst
cooperative commune. Ihe hard working settlers ~ade thcir living from fishing,
farm ing. and 10gging. Sointula. which meo.ns Piace o f Harmony , .... as the sile of
their main village. Personality conflicl s , particularly \"ith the irascible
leader, caused a break-up in 1905. ~lany of the orisinal residents remained and
the c ammunit}' survived in a s lightly different fOfr.l .

The calm simp li city of Sointula . the neat cottages Io'it h their carefully
tended flower gardens , and the hard \.,oorki ng res i dents gave this pIace a f eeling
of peace , in (ontrast l a the ra .... , r ough Iand and people alI a r ound it . ~luch of
the success was due to the fact that no liquor , no religi ous inlolerance and no
police force '-'as on the island , until the 1960 ' s .... hen the hippies in \'ade d
SOlntula .

Today, Nalcolm Island <lnd Sointula hav e cha:-;ed . Th ey are no"" connected t o
the B. e. road system by a three-tO'o.'n ferI;; that calls at Port ~1c!\eill and Alert
Bay as we 11. The ferry dock is near the fuel doc k al the center of town
(around Dickenson Point). The 5mall c raft harbo r is dbout 1 mil e further into
Rough Bay, behind an L-shaped breab' ater .

The harbor was expanded in 1984- 1985 . This is a. bus}' place during the
fishing season as rnany vessels frorn southern B.C. use Sointula as a base in
summer. In addition to the old wharf and four finger fIoa t s , a newer wharf and
three finger floats has been added to the north. Both sets of floats are
approached around the end of the breakwater .

A harbormastcr , based in the 5ma ll hut on the old wharf, controls alI
be r thing in the small eraft harbor and eoIleets the nQminal gO\'ernrnent fee.
Check with the harbormaster on arrivaI, o r ii after hours find any berth and
check in the next morning.

At the head of the I.·harf , across the road is the !:larine hard·•• are branch of
the Cooperath'e Stare . The main store, pos t o ff ice , ho tel , restaurant, and a
museum are at the (enter of town. The ~alk to t>';I'. .. n is pledsant .

Port Mcffeill is a modern town, ... ith nany of t~e fac ilitif's usual to these
dE'\·elopments . "gov ernment dock and floats are !:Jehind thE' break ... ate r that
pr o tects the ferry dock. The approach [r om A!ert Bay t o Sointu l a o r Port
~c~eil1 passes Haddington I sland . A traffie separatl on seheme (for c ruise 5~
sh ips ao d large freighters) 15 established far ea eh sidE' o f the island . Lights
mark the reefs , ledges, and :;hoals . The passagl?s are I.·ide enough to cause
5rrall vessels fe .... problerns if the lights and marks Me> ca r e full~' identified .

Cont inu ing ~est from Sointula lhrough Brou~~.ton Strait a \'E' ssel exits into
Qucen Cha r lotte Strait on passing Pulte>ney Point Lighthouse . This light is on
che south ...·est tip of ~laleolm l slan d. This is a!l ir:1port3nt ...·eather reporting
l ighth ouse, and Hs deep fog horns ean be very '~E'le '~ !1e duri ng foggy periods.
In summer the . . .·esterly ... inds often rai se il chop in thi5 seet ion of Broughton
Slr<lit. The most cornfortable time for lran>! up the coas t i5 in the early
morning.
 -~l ~I t--..
II)

C.,.A.2LDrre S"'1"~AI'T

............

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fo,rtM~~~U .
(F~,P.D'1 ~S,a~)
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.

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(OPCI'\t:el IQe..5)

SOINTULA

MALCOLM ISLAND
5"",
,
Appro.oC. Sc...a.le.. 111.. M.

,J( Not IO be used for navigation

Pu L -r E "" e:~ Po IN1" LIGHrHOLJ5~

DE.TAIL- SorN1ULA
~Ad f.:, -tDWI'l, abt. J :.. M .-...'-c.c>,-~ I ~l..A"-lJ)
l,. h"'il '-D., ~fD"'l . 'IIEw_Fe.o""" ~A.~T.
 84

PORT HARDY

A pleasant, small town situated near the northern end of Vancouver Island,
this is the last fuel and provisions center before sailing off to the north.
It is a departure or destination point for the majority of vessels crossing
Queen Charlotte Sound and the upper sections of the Inside Passage.

Hardy Bay is quite large, and marked at its eastern end by a light on
Masterman Islands about 1/2 mile oH Dillon Poi'nt. Port Hardy Ees at the
southern end of the bay, beyond the two shoal bars marked by lighted buoys at
their seaward ends. A government wharf lies between the buoys, but the small
craft harbor lies beyond the southern shoal buoy. Pass on the east side of the
buoy before entering between the two breakwaters. Two sizable small craft
'marinas' are in this harbor.

The northern marina is a government operated 5mall craft facility which is

popular with commerciaI fishing vessels. Thus it is locally called "Fisher-
man's Wharf". During the fishing season it is extremely busy and space is at a
premium. Rafting may be necessary. • • jR..Q.. ~ (fA 1"'.Qe)

The marina in the southern part of the harbor is operated by the Quarter-
deck Marina and RV Park. There is moorage available on a daily or annua l
basis. A well stocked marine supply store, showers, laundry, and other
facilities are at the head of the dock. A restaurant is nearby. Fuel may be
obtained at a Chevron station at Quarterdeck Marina or just outside the
breakwaters to the north at an Esso Marine Station. Both may be very busy in
summer, and short waits may be necessary.

Port Hardy is at the end of the highway from the south, and is now the
summer terminus of the B.C. Ferry "Queen of The North" which sails to Prince
Rupert. There are several underground caves in the area which can be visited
by bus tours. 4IIIIIt

Goletas (Schooner) Channel leads ~~ from Hardy Bay to the top of Vancouver
Island at Cape Sutil. Vessels heading for the West Coast of Vancouver Island
use this channel to reach Bull Harbour, on Hope Island, as the closest depart-
ure point from which to round Cape Scotto However, Buii Harbour is not as good
a departure point for crossing Queen Charlotte Sound.

A small, but useful anchorage to await the crossing is Gods Pocket, a small
indentation on the west side of Hurst Island off Christie Passage. There are
two white tire floats in the small bay, which can be barely made out in the
charts, but which does provide adequate shelter close to Queen Charlotte Sound.
During the fishing season the floats are used a great deal by fishing vessels
coming in for a short rest before leaving again. They often raft up several
vessels to a buoy. Little space is left for anchorage. At other times there
may be no other boat in sight. Thus one must take one's chances as to the
availability of space in this little shelter.

Scarlett Point Lighthouse on the northeast tip of Balaklava Island lies 2

miles to the northwest of Gods Pocket. This is a good departure or destination
point for the crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound.

• ?
 NOI lO be used for navigation

~uf\tA ls
O FL.-
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QUEEN CHARLOTTE
o, 1, 2., !i,
STRAIT
4- 5
~-----====-'-----'====~----~===-'
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 86

SECTION 3

Port Hardy to Klem tu

 Not to be used far na\ligaTion

t:.. CAl"j
Queel1. Cha .. loHe I
I

Sound.. l

SI·'.L~-------------+-------\

i
~t1s.
'e
I ,

124- It..,- 1%."-

 88

MILES INLET

Miles Inlet is a convenient anchorage on the north side of Queen Charlotte

Strait when using the northern route to get past Cape Caution. In pIace of one
long open water crossing the passage can be made over two or three days in
steps. From Miles Inlet the passage past Cape Caution is reduced. but if the
northwest winds are blowing the first lO miles will be directly into the pre-
vailing wind and sea. See the following page for the route past Cape Caution.

Taking a departure on Scarlett Point Lighthouse (Balaklava Island), the

course ls a little west of north to clear Alleviation Rock and other dangers at
the western end of the Walker Group. Thereafter the course can be altered to
almost true north to cross Queen Charlotte Strait to McEwen Rock. A light is
on McEwen Rock, which ls about l mile west of the entrance to Miles Inlet.
The entrance lies between McEwen Point on the north and Bramham Point on
the south. Several small islets are clustered along the northern shore. and
after about 1/2 mile the opening has narro~ed to only 150 feet. At the head of
this entrance channel the inlet branches to the northwest and southeast in the
form of a T. The northwestern end is a lagoon sealed off by shallows that dry
13 feet at low water. Good anchorage can be taken at the junction of the
channels or slightly into the southeast armo The depths in the narrows and the
arms varies between 3 and 4 fathoms. Westerly winds blow down the entrance,
but are more of a nuisance with the seas outside the entrance than for their
effect in the anchorage.
There are many outlying rocks off the coast on the north side of Queen
Charlotte Strait. McEwen Rock is a good landmark to give the coasta1 dangers a
clearance when approaching Miles Inlet.

There are severa! anchorages which are as attractive as Miles Inlet on the
north side. These include the fol10wing:

Sku11 Cove is entered on the east side of the island in the entrance. It
is open to the wind.

Murray Labyrinth is in the middle of the group of islands between Bramah

Island and Al1ison Harbor. Enter only from the southwest through an intricate
entrance.
Allison Harbor is a long harbor with good protection in the 5mal] bay by
the ruins. It i5 now an abandoned logging area.

Blunden Harbor is quite a bit further southeast, but a very impressive

anchorage. It is at the site of an old Indian village. Burial boxes in the
trees give this pIace an eerie feeling. Do not trespass at the old village
site.
Slingsby Channel leads eastward on the north side of Bramah Island. while
Schooner Channel is northward on the east side; both lead to the Nakwato Rapids
and entry into complex sounds and inlets beyond. ~uch af this area is unex-
plored. Nakwato Rapids ha ve the highest tidal currents reported in British
Columbia -- 16 knots at springs -- easil, understood by the amount of water in
the long inlets beyond it. Passage through here can only be made at high water
slack.
 0'2.'
• n.
Vv-l''f (. iIt

· f + I I I
ANCHS. ON N SIDE OF
Po ....t Har'dy

I QUEEN CHARLOTTE STRAIT

~.
o ,
1
'
e I

""-. """'.
App.,-o)(.
Not to be used for navigation

+
..

a.LJ f. E IJ
CHAlZl..OTTt:..

S-reA.IT

Sc.ale. V\.~.~
 90

ROLTTES PAST CAPE CAL"TIO:-;

The crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound past Cape Caution is one of the key
pa55ages of the trip. From Port Hardy or Gods Pocket the most favored route
takes a departure at Scarlett Point Lighthouse on Balaklava Island to go north-
westerly up Gordon Channel passing to the west of Pine Island. The (ourse is
then changed more to the north to pass to the ~est of Egg Island. Cape Caution
i5 passed about 2/3 of the way along this lego ~ith Egg lsland abeam the
course is then true north to South Passage into Fitz Hugh Sound followed bv
anchorage in Safety Cave on Calvert Island or elsewhere.

In clear weather this passage has interest but offers no prublems other
than those that nature provides in the wind and ~ea. The entire coast i5 well
marked with lights and lighthouses that provide assurdnce and useful bearings.
Even in summer fog the RDF beacons and fog signa]s at the kev lighthouses can
be of assistance, and it is reassuring when navigating in fog to know that to
the west there is open water. Keeping clear of other vessels is, of course,
another matter. Both Pine and Egg Island Light~ouses are distinctive. The
light at Cape Caution is unmanned.

If it proves necessary to find a ref~ge frcm ~ind and sea before reaching
Fitz Hugh Sound, there are t~o anchorages in Smith Sound that can he used --
Jones Cove and Milbrook Cove. Smith Sound can be entered through either Radar
Passage north of Egg Island, or from the south through Alexandra Passage
between Egg Island and Macnicol Point (about 5 miles north of Cape Caution).
There are severa 1 dangers in both entrances and a large scale chart such as
Can. Chart *3776 is helpful in determining safe courses. The main dangers are
drying rocks that are usually visible or are indicated by breakers.

Jones Cove lies on the northeast side of ~acnicol Point. ~hen entering
steer clear of the reef that extends 600 feet south~est of Turner lslands, and
also round the east point of Jones Cave entrance by at lesst 300 feet. The
cove is 5mall but offers some shelter.

Milbrook Cove is on the north shore of Smith Sound close eastward of Shield
Island. Smith Sound can be entered from the ncrth through Irving Passage south
of False Egg Island. A buov marks ~ilbrook Rocks mid~ay in the entrance. Pass
them on the ~e5t and once in the Cave stay in mid-channel and pa5S bet~een the
tWQ islands in the north end of the cove to anchor behind them in ~ to 5
fathoms, sand. This i5 a snug and pleasant anchorage.
 C H AR. L.OT' E.

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 92

SAFETY COVE, CALVERT ISLA\D

Calvert Island shelters the entrance of Fitz Hugh Sound off Queen
Charlotte Sound. It i5 a welcome sight after a crossing past Cape eaution, and
Safety Cave is a good anchorage after a long day's run. The island rises in
steep, wooded siopes to peaks on its eastern side, but is lo~ and flat on the
~est side. Safety Cave lies in a deep indentation of the eastern peaks.

Cape Calvert is the southeastern extremity of Calvert Island, but it is

not an obvious landmark. Clark Point, slightly northeast has a light and is
more noticeable. The island shore, with the bulk of Entry Cone above the
paint, is steep and hides any indicatian of the indentation of the cove, ~hich
lies about 6 miles to the north.

The cove is about 1/3 mile wide and it extends almost a mile into the
island. Two islets lie off the northern point, but are nat particularly
noticeable on an approach from the south. They are more readily 5een from the
northern approach. The shores are steep-to, but entry i5 made down the center
of the cove. The cove i5 deep thraughout. but shoals quickly at the head where
an extensive aud and sand bank dries for almost 1,000 feet from the shore.
Anchor anywhere in mid cave after the fathometer sho~s 15 fathoms, on 50ft mud
bottom. Do not go closer in than 12 fathoms.

A Iow, conical peak is at the head cf the cave, in the 10w pa5s between
the mountain masses on either side. There is usually a breeze in the cove
which can become gusty if there is a gale on the ocean side, but the anchorage
is secure. A house 1s hidden behind the trees at the head of the cove, and the
road cut leading from the landing point to the house shows up against the hill.

The entrance points af the cave are good places to troll far salmon.
Rivers Inlet across Fitz Hugh Sound is one of the most prolific salmon fishlng
areas and the salmon stocks run in and around the various islands. Anchored at
night in Safety Cave the many anchor lights of fish boats in the coves of
Ri~ers Inlet make a sparkling display.

There are severa l anchorages in the Rjvers Inlet area, including cannerv
moorings and resorts. Only two will be noted: Coose Bay lies on the south
side af Rivers Inlet just within the entrance. Anchor at thp head of the bay.
Duncanby Land1ng is on the east side of Coose Bay at its entrance. Fuel and
moorings can be obtained.

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 94

PRUTH BAY AND GOLDSTREAM HARBOR

These anchorages are alternatives to Safety Cave. Eaeh has its o~n
attraction and is well worth visiting.

Kwakshua Charinel lies between Calvert Island and Hecate Island to the
north. The entrance off Fitz Hugh Sound is about 7 miles north of Safety Cove.
The channel is about 5 miles long and has remarkably parallel, steep-to sides
for this distance. At the eastern end it divides into several finger~, while
the main Kwakshua Channel turns sharply northward in a right-angled turno

Keith Anchorage lies on the south side, opposi te Whittaker Point at the
turn of the channel. BC TeIephone Company microw8\'e to\.:ers stand atop the Iow
summit, and a smaii house and dock lie at the head of the bay. Anehorage ean
be taken here although winds may blow down the channel through the Iow passes.

Pruth Bay lies at the ~estern end of K~akshua Channei ~here it divides
into three fingers, Anchorage is best to~ards the head of the center finger,
off of a smali beach with two houses, in about 6 to 7 fathoms, sand. A trail
leads from the beaeh across the neck of land to a ~ide beach on the Pacifie
side of the island. A fantastie mask is carved ioto a cedar tree part ~ay
along the trail. A notice marks the start of the trail.

Anchorage can also be taken in a little cove in the northern part of

Kwakshua Channel on the east side about 1/2 mile north of Whittaker Point. The
south part of the cove is deep and shoals rapidly at the eastern side. Two
smail isIands (separated by a drying rock) mark the northern part of the cave.
Pass on either side of the roek to enter the northern seetion far anchorage.
There is sufficient spaee far two or three boats, sand bottom.

Proceeding north in K~akshua Channel, ~eay Islets and the surrounding reef
and shoals constriet the channel, which is other~ise clear. At the northern
end one may choose to go to the west to use Adams Harbor, or turn northeast to
pass through the narrow channel between Rattenbury Island and Heeate Island.
In both cases, use the chart as a guide, generally favoring the Rattenbury
rsland side. Eagles nest right alongside the channel on Rattenbury Island.
Upon leaving Kwakshua Channel one enters Hakai Passage ~here the effect of the
open sea Is felt. In summer the fog that often plagues these ~aters rol1s in
through Hakai Passage.

Goldstream Harbor is at the northern tip of Hecate Island, on the south

side of Hakai Passage as it joins Fitz Hugh Sound. An unnamed island lies off
the tip to form the harbor, which must be entered from the east off Fitz Hugh
Sound. Midway into the harbor the channe1 i5 narrowed by a drying reef
(Evening Rock) in mid-channel, and Hat Island which lies off the Heeate Island
shore. Pass between to enter the' basin where good anchorage can be taken in 7
to 12 fathoms, sand and mud.

Other anchorages along Fitz Hugh Sound can also be used. Kwakume Inlet is
on the east side of Fitz Hugh and ESE of Goldstrea~ Harbor. The entrance i5
very narrow -- between a small island on the north and an exposed rock on the
south. Anchor towards the head. Koeye River is about 5 miles north of K~akurne
Inlet. Ihere is a small bay south of, and behind the rock at the south part of
the entrance. Pass on the north sjde of this rock ~hen entering.
Page is missing
 96

NAMU

On the eastern shore of Fitz Hugh Sound is ~hirlwind Bay, ~here the harbor
of Namu is located. The smaI1 community is mainIy oriented to~ards the fishing
fleet ~hich serves the B.C. Packer's Cannery that i5 its mainstay. During the
fishing season (summer and ear1y fa1l) the facilities and moorings are primar-
iIy for the use of the commerciaI fishing vessels -- pleasure craft must take a
back seat though they are ~elcome enough otherwise.

The cannery buildings and various ~orkshops are visible as one enters the
bay through either Morehouse or Cloverleaf Passes ~hich are on either 5ide of
Kiwash Island. The 5ma11 craft floats are to the northeast of the bui1dings.
The long, outer float acts as a breakwater far the remainder of the f10ats, in
spite of its dilapidated condition. It must be turned on the eastern side to
enter the protected area. A smali red buoy mark5 Loo Rock, about 300 feet N~E
of the end of the outer float, and it i5 through thi5 gap that vessels must
passo

If the inner f10ats are filled with fishing boats then plea5ure craft may
be reiegated to the outer float or move else~here for anchorage. However,
vessels are welcome to stop for water or provisions, the latter being obtained
at the company store which is a short ~alk along the board~alk. Garbage may be
deposited in the incinerator near the store. Fuel can be obtained at the
Imperiai Oi1 float which is to the west, behind Clam Island. A drying bank
connects the western end of C1am Island to the south shore of the har~or.

~hirIwind Bay Is not a good anchorage. Though the willi-~aws that give it
the name occur mainly in fall and winter, the water is too deep for anchoring
and there is too much traffic for comfort. ~either Rock Inlet nor Harlequin
Basin nearby offer any anchorage. Anchorage can be taken in Fougner Bay in
Burke Channel, just 3 miles north. There are many islets and rocks but the
chart can be used to guide an entry and to find protected anchorage.

Burke Chahnel leads northeasterly to the coastaI town of Bella Coola,

about 50 miles away. If the wedther is good this can be a very attractive
trip, as the channel lies beween high, rocky, sno~-capped peaks which increase
in height towards the head of the channel. Eucott Bay and the Alexander
MacKenzie Monument on Dean Channel.are other attractions reached through Burke
Channel.

However, the Inside Passage route proceeds north through Fitz Hugh Sound
into Fisher Channel, past Fog Rock~. across to Pointer Island, and into Lama
Passage.
 ------

Not to be used for nalligation

NAMU

FITZ HUGH SOUND

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 98

BELLA BELLA AND SHEARWATER

fi5her Channel leads to the ghost town of Ocean Falls, once a thriving
pulp mi1! supported community. It is a beautiful location, well worth visit-
ing, and plenty of moorage is available at the public fIoats. However, the
Inside Passage raute turns off Fisher Channel into Lama Passage at Pointer
Island Lighthouse.
o

Lama Passage leads westward between Hunter Island and Denny Island far
about 7 miles before turning nOfthward. There are some coves on the south
shore in Cooper Inlet, just befare the junction with Hunter Channel. There are
many rocks in their entrances, but a 5mall vessel can find a passage into
Lizzie Cove or Jane Cove for a snug anchorage.

The narrowing channel of Lama Passage leads north to the small town of ~ew
Bella Bella. It has stores, a hotel, hospital, bank and a post office. There
i5 moorage at the government docks and fuel is available nearby. Further up
this shore there is moorage behind tiny Campbell Island beyond the breah"ater.

The old town of Bella Bella lies ac ross Lama Passage and is c10sing do .... n.
Some moorage may be available. However, around the point and past Spirit
Island there 1s the large bay of Kliktsoatli Harbar where the settlement and
resort inn at Shearwater is 1ocated. To enter, take a mid-channel course
through Clayton Pass bet~een Shearwater Island and Denny Island.

The small, private dock belongs to the Shearwater Marina and Fishermans
Inn resort and a long floating wharf with several buildings behind is the
shipyard. A well stocked marine store adjoins the slipway and workshops where
much repair work is done. The resort inn, restaurant, bar, and 'cabaret' is
nearby. Groceries and showers are available. A scheduled Air Be service
operates from the resort, as does a water taxi service to and from Bella Bella.
A small public wharf i5 in the little cave beyond the shipyard fIoat, but most
transient vessels moor to the long float, if space is available.

Lama Passage passes between Campbell and Saunders Islands, the western of
three channels into Seaforth Channel. A buoy off the south point of Saunders
Islands marks a shoal. The channel is about 1,000 feet wide at its narrowest
point, and the meeting of the tides seems ta col1ect 10g5 and debris here. The
ferries and cruise ships in the Inside Passage use this pass, and at sue h times
it can be crowded. Dryad Point Lighthouse on the northern point i5 an impor-
tant reporting station. Once in Seaforth Channel the route turns northwest to
pass DalI and Regatta Rocks before heading westward towards Ivory Island, Reid
Passage. and Milbanke Sound.

Gunboat Passage continues east from Dryad Point. Although rocky and
narro~ it i5 well marked. It leads ioto Fisher Channel and is the shortest
route to Ocean Falls from Shearwater or Seaforth Channel.

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 Il'
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 100

REIO PASSAGE ANO OLIVER COVE

As even Captain Vancouver's stirvey teams found, this little passage

enables one to to dodge the seas and weather in MiIbanke Sound and to take a
protected route into the lower part of Mathieson Channel. One can then proceed
northward to cross via Oscar Passage into Finlayson Channel.

Seaforth Chan~el becomes wider and more open to the sea as one approaches
Ivory Island. A major reporting lighthouse i5 at the southwestern end of Ivory
Island, on Robb Point. In strong northwesterlies choppy seas develop which
come into Seaforth Channel. The outside route through Milbanke Sound into
Finlayson Channel may be uncomfortable at such times. East af Ivory Island, in
the rack-strewn area between it and Harmston and Watch Islands there i5 a
passage (marked by a light and red buoy) leading up to Reid Passage.

There are many large and small, drying rocks in Blair Inlet and Powell
Anchorage, but mast are visible -- especially near low water. From the red
buoy a course set directly to the entrance of Reid Passage passes comfortably
clear of these scattered rocks.

Carne Rock (with a light on it) lies in the middie of the passage. A
shoal lies about 1,000 feet SSW of Carne Rock. Favor the east side of the
passage to pass these dangers. The least depth in this passage is about 4
fathoms.

Oliver Cove is on the eastern side near the northern end of Reid Inlet.
A reef projects from the southern point and should be avoided when entering.
Two small, treed islands block the northern section but good anchorage can be
taken in the south side. The remains of two old 10g cabins can be seen in the
trees behind, as well as alI the posts and beams of what was a barn. They lie
on the ground as they were assembled and second-growth timber grows up thraugh
them. The head af the cave shoals to mud fIats where clams are reported.

The north entrance to Reid Passage can be entered by passing near the
southern tip of Leighton Island before setting a course towards the southern
end of ~artha Island in Perceval Narro~s. This raute should clear Lizzie Rocks
at the southern tip of Lake Island -- a careful lookout must be kept. A course
can then be set up Perceval Narrows into the broad opening of Mathieson
Channel.

Even in fog, a slaw, careful passage can be made through this section
unless visibility is such that it is inadvisable lo travel. Do nat attempt
Lady Trutch Passage as it is blocked with rocks. Moss Passage and Oscar
Passage are discussed in the next page.

In calm weather the shortest rcute from Seaforth Channel to Finlayson

Channe! is via Milbanke Sound. Courses should be laid to clear the dangers off
the caast, passing to the east of Vancouver Rock, before standing up into
Finlayson Channel. Hawever, between Ivory Island and Klemtu only 7 miles are
saved, so that one might prefer the more interesting route via Reid Passage and
Mathieson Channel whatever the weather.
 ~I >:>::)::..t:)·ET ~: \ L< ..... .
OLivE.R COVE

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Not to be ust:'d for navlgation

REID PASSAGE
SEAFORTH CHANNEL
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App..-c.lC.
 102

OSCAR PASSAGE AND ARTHUR ISLAND ANCHORAGES

There are two routes which cross from ~!athieson Channel to Finlayson
Channel. Jackson Passage separates Susan and Roderick Islands and is the
northern passage. It is about 1/4 mile wide throughout and narrows even more
at the eastern end where it passes through Jackson Narrows. Here it is barely
600 feet wide and the channel has many rocks. ~ni1e this passage offers much
or interest it is demanding in navigation and should be attempted only at or
near high water slack.

Oscar Passage is the southern route, separating Dowager and Susan Islands.
It is wide, deep, and free from dangers, making it a faster route to fol1ow.
Even when Finlayson Channel and part of Mathieson are foggy, Oscar Passage may
be clear. The steep shores, particularly on the north side make the trip
through resemble transiting a canal.

There is a handy anchorage about 1 1/2 mi1es south of the eastern entrance
of Oscar Passage. A cave with two 10bes indents Dowager Island, and Arthur
Isiand lies in front of them. One may enter past either side of Arthur Island,
the southern channel being wider. The west cave is 1arger, but a 1ittle more
exposed to southerly winds blowing through the large gap between Arthur and
Dowager IsIands. The head of the cove is shoal and dries; thus it should not
be approached too closely. Anchor in 7 to lO fathoms, stone and mud bottom.
This cove can accommodate severai boats.

The east cove is separated from the other by a short, rocky point. It is
considerably narrower and smalIer, but has the bu1k of Arthur Island before to
provi de shelter. There are rocky outcrops along each side -- thus there is
foom for on1y one or two boats. The bottom is rock and mud and varies from 6
to 8 fathoms.

The eastern entrance to this cove is quite narro~. At low tide the reefs
that extend from the points near the entrance reduce the width to about 200
feet. As it is dee p (15 fathoms) a mid-channel course is sufficiente

There is another useful anchorage immediately before the eastern entrance

to Jackson Narrows, in Rescue Bay. Rocky islands and shoals limit the width at
the entrance, and there are drying rocks near the head of the bay. There is a
small basin within the bay with 8 - 9 fathoms. This anchorage is useful for
awaiting the proper time to pass through Jackson Narr0~S.

Moss Passage at the southern end of Do~a8er Island (and Mathieson Channel)
can a1so be considered as a passage connected to Finlayson Sound. It actually
opens into Milbanke Sound just befare the opening into Finlayson. At its
eastern end Moss Passage contracts to only about 300 feet in the section known
as Sloop Narrows. Tidai currents are strong. Pass well south of the drying
rock south of Guard Point, and continue to stay south of Squaw Island in the
Narrows. While Moss Passage widens at its ~estern end there are many rocks and
1slands through which one must pass to reach Finlayson Channel. If the weather
1s foggy this is not an advisable route.
 I
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~~Ol to be used for r.avi92t;O" ee..id
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 104

KLE~

This pretty village lies behind Cone Island on the ~est side of Finlayson
Channel. At the north end of Cone Island two important passages -- Jane
Passage and Sarah Passage -- connect Finlayson _ith Tolmie Channel. In turn,
Tolmie Channel runs north alongside Sarah Island to join Graham Reach and
continue the Inside Passage. Finlayson and Tolmie Channels are also joined at
the north end of Sarah Island by Hiekish Narrows, but the strong currents in
this passage cause most vessels to favor the alternate route.

Klemtu is well placed as a stop along the Inside Passage. Although in the
past it suffered from a reputation far theft, rudeness, and indifference of the
inhabitants, much has been dane to improve this image as recent visits prove.

The village is in Trout Bay. on the ~est side of Klemtu Passage about one
mile south of the northern end of Cone Island. There is a government dock and
a seaplane landing float at the middle of the cove in the ~estern shore.
Drying banks and shoal ~ater hem in the dock. Approach as indicated on the
sketch. There is not much extra space as the southern part is taken up with
loeal vessels; thus it may be necessary to raft up. The Fisherman's Co-op dock
(now owned by the 10cal band) is located near the fuel dock. It sometimes has
5pace for transient boats. The dock in the southern part of the cove is used
by loeal fishermen far repairing their nets; this vicinity appears shoal.

The short pier from the floats reaches to a boardwalk that runs around the
edge af much of the cove. Most of the vil1age is in the southern section. but
the new stare. post office, and fuel area are along the northern section. Fuel
can be obtained at the fuel dock beyond the old cannery, but one may need to
wait for the manager. He can be called in advance on CB Ch, 14, cali sign 44.

Anchorage within Trout Bay is not recommended because of the shoals and
regular traffico But it can be found in the middle part of Clothes Bay.
Anchor off the passage behind the drying rocks in about 5 fathoms.

Fog rol1s up Finlayson Channel and into Klemtu Pa5sage. It can delay
travel at times. Although it i5 more prevalent in the summer and fall it
sometimes occurs in the spring. Klemtu Passage is narro~, but deep and both
Jane and Sarah Passage have hazards that 1imit their width, but are otherwise
deep and free of problems. On the north (inside) point of Sarah Passage is
Boat Bluff on which is an attractive, manned lighthouse.
Further up Tolmie Channel where it passes Split Head at the top of Swindle
Island there is a well marked passage past Parry Patch (a shoal lying about
mid-channel). By slightly favoring either the north or south shores the patch
iseasily passed. Tidal s~irls are sometimes encountered here. but the
currents are seldom a problem.

Three other anchorages are in this area. Nowish Cove on the east side of
Finlayson Channel lies behind Nowish Island. Enter from north of Nowish Island
and use plenty of scope as the ~ater is deep (10 -15 fathoms) and an eddy
current i5 evidente Mary Cave i5 also on the east side of Finlayson Channel,
about 5 miles north of No~ish Cove. Anchor in lO fathoms at the head of the
basino Cougar Bay is IO miles north of Klemtu on the west side of Tolmie
Channel. Anchor in the small cove on the east side of the bay in lO fathoms.
 NOI IO be used for navigltion

KLEMTU

FINLAYSON CHANNEL
o
,
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Appt'ClA. Sc..a..le. V\.M. Ft N LA."iSD!oJ
 106

SECTlON 4

Klerntu to Prince Rupert

 ISo·

Not to be used for navigation

tli9\
,,~I(u, rt

Iz,q·
 108

BVTEDALE
The bight on the south side of the junction of Fraser and Graham Reaches
(opposite Work Island) is a naturai and weIl placed stop far vessels travelling
the Inside Passage. Butedale is an abandoned cannery on the southeast side of
the bight. It is identified by the spectacular waterfall just north of the
buiIdings. The site has attracted people far many years apparently an
Indian summer village was located here long ago.

The cannery area is falling into ruins, but the site is now privately
owned. Two caretakers have the job of looking after the pIace, and maintaining
the docks and houses. The fIoats are attached to the base of the old wharf
piIings. They suffer greatIy from the wash of the cruise ships and ferries
that rush up and down the channel. This means a daily battle to keep the
floats in shape. A small fee is charged for mooring at this worthwhile stop.

Fuel is availabie at most time5. When the stock i5 reduced it is 501d only
on an emergency basis. Water -- lots of \o'ater -- 1s available. There is a
small store and office on the wharf above the fIoats. The provisions sold at
the store have been brought in from Kit1mat. For a nominaI fee a hot bath may
be enjoyed. The old community center is stilI maintained ping pong tables
are ready for a game. EIectricity is plentiful, that is, as long as the
woodstave penstock holds together. Several bad leaks can be noticed if an
interesting waIk up a path beside the penstock i5 taken. At the head of the
penstock the intake gates are at the outlet of a Iarge lake surrounded by
mountains. Fishing is good, but the mosquitos are ravenous.

The falls stand out, as torrents of water tumble down even in late summer
when many of the other falls have almost dried up. In the spring the water-
falls along Graham and Fraser Reac~es are among the most appealing attractions
of travel along the Inside Passage. They appear in alI shapes and sizes from
5ingle large falls to tiny threads or multiple cascades. Fraser Reach has the
better of Graham Reach in the variety and beauty of its waterfal1s.

An alternative anchorage may be taken at Khutze Inlet, an opening on the

eastern side of Graham Reach, about 8 miles southeast of Butedale. ~hen
entering the iniet favor the north side to pass Green Spit, which extends from
the southern shore to within about 1,000 feet of the northern shore. Anchorage
can be found in the Iee (east side) of the spit in about 15 fathoms. An
anchorage is also reported near the head of the inlet where the Khutze River
has a steep-to mud flato The anchorage is off a stream with a conspicuous
waterfall, and is in deep water. An abandoned copper mine is along the iniet.
Mining expIoration continues to take pIace in this area. It is to be hoped
that it will not disturb the wildlife which is another attraction in this area.

At the northern end of Fraser Reach the Inside Passage turns west along
McKay Reach, while from this junction Ursula Channel goes north to Kitimat.
Hot springs can be found at Bishops Bay, a few miles along Ursula Channel. A
float is at the very head of the bay, useful since the bay is deep. A concrete
bath house has been erected at the hot springs. The area is crowded in summer,
sìnce this is a popular stop for fishermen and yachtsmen.
 "l
-f !S~I\~~.
.,
•
.......

FIl.A~e.fZ.. lt.EÀ.C.H.

BUTEDALE

GRAHAM REACH
,
1000' o, ~
,
ÀppY'OX. Sc..a.Le. M.HoC. q ~e.ct
NOI 10 be used for navigalion

---------------------

t:.--.shA .... ~

Ap~fl....OAC'_lIMG
 110

COGHLAN ANCHORAGE ANO GRENVILLE CHANNEL

Coghian Anchorage Iies in the channei bet~een Promise Isiand and the
mainland at the southern entrance into Grenville Channel. Promise Island is
dome-shaped with two peaks and stands out before the mountains behind that
border the channel.

Enter the anchorage from the south, past Thom Point on Promise Is1and.
Harbor Rock is in the center of the passage and is marked by a light. The
anchorage lies beyond, on the shelf off a mud and stone beaeh (apposite Brodie
Point on Promise Island). Holding is good on the shelf. The anehorage is
protected in the lee of the high slopes alI around, but open to the southeast.

Opposite the anchorage there are two private buoys of white painted tires,
off the Promise Island shore. That shelf is more protected from southeasterly
winds, but the buoys belong to loeal fishermen ~ho return to them nightly. The
ehannel turns eastward around the top of Promi5e Island, and is called Stewart
Narrows. The tidal stream is strong and the passage is narro~, ~ith rocky
ledges on each side.

Grenville Channel leads northwestward from ~right Sound to Arthur Passage

where it opens into Chatham Sound, thence to Prince Rupert. This 45-mile long,
almost straight, and narrow passage, with steep mountains on both sides is one
of the most unique parts of the Inside Passage. The succession of steep points
off the mountains, receding into the distance tends to make the channei look
even narrower. However, seeing a large cruise ship in the distance dwarfed
into insignificance by the landscape gives one a better perspective.
The south entrance to Grenville Channel is at Sainty Point, where a light
is established. A bay adjacent to the light has no anchorage, being deep ciose
inshore. Grenville Channel appears dead ended, far it narrows and has a slight
jog that gives this appearance. Severa 1 inlets indent the east side of
Grenville Channel and anchorage can be found in Lowe, Klewnuggit, Baker, and
Kumealon Inlets. Waterfalls are not as numerc~s as along fraser Reach.

Lowe Inlet is the first of the side anchorages available when travelling
from the south. It is about 14 1/2 miles fro~ Sainty Point. A light is on a
small island (in Grenville Channel) located atout 1/4 mile past the north point
of the entrance. The channel narrows to 1/3 to 1/4 of a mile. The inlet
extends for about l 3/4 miles towards the northwest. At the entrance there is
a 6-fathom bank on the south side between Don and Hepburn Points on which a
vessel may anchor.

A prettier anchorage is at the far end of Lowe Inlet in Nettle Basin. It

is reached by passing through the narrows bet~een the peninsula of Pike Point
and Mark Bluff. Anchor behind Pike Point on the southern side of spectacular
Verney falls in about 12 - 15 fathoms. Some current is felt from the falls so
extra scope should be allowed. Salmon jump the falls in season. One may walk
a traii found on the north side of the falls. Trout fishing is good.

The tides enter both ends of Grenville Channel, meeting at about Evening
Point. In the narrow part of the channel the current can attain some speed so
it is better to choose the last of the flood in, and ride the ebb out at the
change. However, most vessels can proceed thraugh at alI stages of the tide.
 5 OtJTI-4 E 2AJ f I-J r R.A MCl:

-,-

COGHLAN ANCH.
,

GRENVILLE CHANNEL
)..
ì \ "
\ \
\ j "o.V'bo
\ t;rl.~ \

\
\ '
\ \
, \
\
\ \
.' \
~ \
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i
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~;.:~............................ __~ I ~"

f~~~~~
w~ t c:! 1-11
-
~OU N
t D "
I
NOI lO be used for navig8tion
" ,,I,I
'

A f'P~OACH ING
 112

KLEWNUGGIT INLET

This is a very beautiful anchorage; isolated and secure, but it is a long

way in to it from Grenville Channel. The scenery around the inlet is
magnificent.

lN'hen turning in at the wide entrance ta the inlet, Horning Reef (on which
is a light) must be clea~ed. A partially drying, submerged reef runs between
Evening Point and the light. Do nat turn in until the inlet is well abeam and
a route into the center of the inlet can be taken.

G7Z ...ui Il.. CkAt.\azl Mor-lA./iìtg fJ!id uglo'it'

AppQ..oA.~ II\J.Go K-LEw NuC;~I1"" I foJ Le-r F"12.O...A SE. J up bn!!Kville: eh..

A deep anchorage lies between Harriot Island and the long penin5ula which
projects southward into the Iniet. However, better small boat anchorage is
around this penin5ula in the northwestern inner bar of East Inlet. In this
protected bay, surrounded by forested slopes and rocky peaks one is truly
isolated from the outer warld. Crabbing is excellent. Many boats can be
accommadated but ane is usually alone here. The head of the bay i5 shoal.

Exposed Inlet, the southern portion of Klewnuggit is too open, being

exposed to winds coming through the mountain gaps. It terminates in flats and
a swamp.
 1"0
....
..-.
~ ... -
t
.
!!o_c.Pi".
-'" - -
K.LEIN~UG(iIT r~ L....E:-r FeOM
./

.K~r~~G~IT INLET
Not to be used for navigation : l.

G~E~VJLLE CHAN.
\
1'\.""\.

--.-
 114

BA~ER INLET AND KUMEALON INLET

Baker Inlet, lO miles further north on the eastern shore of Grenvi1le

Channel, provides anchorage at the eastern end. The entrance through Watts
Narrows (200 feet wide) is deep but has strong currents. Use Prince Rupert
siack ~ater times when entering. ~hen travelling north the entrance is easy to
miss in spite of the light on the south side of the entrance. A white house at
Po-aae ~iver on the west side of Grenvil1e Channel can alert one to the
Iocation of the Narrows.

Three miles north of Baker InIet, on the northeastern side of Grenville

Channel is Kumealon Inlet. The l,500-foot wide entrance is between Lerwicke
and McMurray Points. A logging camp is in the smali bay beyond the entrance.
Depths are not known at the smal1 float in front of the campo

The main anchorage lies further up at the head of the inlet. Stay about
200 feet off the north shore to pass the rocky patch extending into mid-channe1
from the southern shore. Beyond the rocky area the eastern end of the in1et
forms a basin, where anchorage in lO - 12 fathoms can be taken. At the north
si de of the basin a narro~, rock encumbered channel with tidai falls leads from
Kumealon Lagoon. It cannot be entered except by dinghy at slack water.

A smaller but more convenient anchorage lies at the entrance, west of

Lerwick Point. There is room far only two or three boats here.

Not tO be used for navigation

BAKER AND

KUMEALON INLETS

~ GRENVILLE CHANNEL
,
O ~
I
{ I~~",.
,
À pp '-07C . ~c.alL ..,.~.

,". ::. ::: :.:. ~ :.. ;:. : :: ."......;.; •.... -_............... .

 Kumealon Is. Anch.
NOI IO be used for navig8tion

~Dwl ~b~t- hOOA:'~l·G.

foLk..)' bOUCM, uSe

lot~ of ~pe.
o, s-
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,
t
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,

Lo"" spit

No. 1"('0 oJ tt
~ Ilo.., et'ltY4v.Le
No1:L dryl~q r'C>~S.

----- ~-

-t:U~L4~"
~_~_- _ -~ L!I\.lLt:

ApP~OAC,", IO KUM E.À.LDt-J . I N LEI At-JGHOOG E Flt.o~ W.

 116

McMICKI~G ANCHORAGES

From the northern end of Grenville Channel the Inside Passage continues
through Arthur Passage and Ma1acca Passage to Chatham Sound and the approaches
to Prince Rupert. Anchorages at this area are the closest to Prince Rupert,
and can be used to rest or to wait for the best time to cross.

Mc~icking, Elliott, and Lewis IsIands are on the western side of Arthur
Passage. Chismore and KeIp Passages are narrower channels that separate the
three isIands on their western sides from the shore of Porcher Isiand. Kelp
Passage is restricted with rock and shoal and should not be attempted.
Chismore Passage is wider and forms a basin below McMicking and Elliott Islands
which can be a sheltered anchorage.

Approach this anchorage through Bloxam Pass, between El1iott and Lewis
Islands. Coming from the south up Arthur Passage, pass well c1ear of Herbert
Reefs, which are marked by a concrete post and light. Enter B10xam Pass in
mid-channel. Lawson Harbor lies in a bight on Lewis Island and is marked by
two houses on the southern shore. It can be used as an anchorage but the reefs
at the eastern point must be cleared. Far a more spacious anchorage continue
through Bloxam Pass (currents of about l knot are normal) to enter the basin
south of Cocktail Point.

Porcher Island Cannery, south of Ada Is1ands on the northeastern tip and
Hunt Inlet on the north side of Porcher Island can also be used as a refuge.
80th have narrow entrances, with rocky ledges near the approaches.

The crossing of the southeastern part of Chatham Sound to Prince Rupert is

weli marked with Iights and buoys on alI rocks, shoals, and islands. From
Herbert Reefs the fIashing green 1it buoy off Cecii Patch can be passed on its
east side; then the light on Genn Islands passed on its west. This clears the
sand and shoal areas of the Skeena River entrances. The course from Genn
Islands must clear the Horsey and Agnew Bank buoys south of Rid1ey Is1and. The
coal terminaI and grain elevator of the deep sea port are marked by strobe
lights which are visibie even in daylight. These are a sure sign that one is
nearing Prince Rupert •

.... 11&..4 ls, 1.,'," t •

Cr'C.b ..1 ~ ~;t~ ... Le,
~ R LA C.DIo\ c tK.ooy
ApPJU)A..~ ... IN~ PIl..I~a FRoP1 S f.. ,',e -9. . OM r\~ .... Ge.I"", '1:"), l...i~kt:'.
 PCr'"o:'..h .. ,.. I~.

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f'oc.~"E. ft.
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McMICKING IS. ANCH.

ARTHUR PASSAGE
o..______*.======~+________=_=====_~~.-
APP,.."X. SC4le. "'l.wc.
Not to be used for navigation
 118

PRINCE RUPERT
This attractive, busy city is the northernmost population center of the
Canadian portion of the trip to Alaska. It bustles with activity for much of
the summer as the fishing fleet uses the large harbor as a home base. It is a
pIace to rest, re-stock, and enjoy eating out. It is a150 a Port of Entry,
where one ~ report on returning from Alaska.

The harbor is a magnificent naturai basin, protected from seaward by Digby

Isiand. It has deep water and pIenty of space for expansion. Prince Rupert
Iies on the flat part of Kaien Island, overlooked by the high, steep bulk of
Mount Hays. When approaching from the south the Ridley Island Deep Sea
Terminal and some of the industriaI mil1s on Port Edward in front of ~ount
Hayes are visible at a distance.

The approach from Ketchikan passes inside the screen of Dundas and ~Ie l ville
Islands along Chatham Sound to the buoy at Petrel Rock (FI.G, #D.39), then
turns south of belI buoy D33 befare entering the harbor. From seaward (i.e.
Dixon Entrance) pick up the Iighthouses and buoys of Brown Passage, 16 miles
WNW of Petre1 Rock. See the sketch on page 197.

The harbor entrance between Kaien and Digby Islands is well marked at the
various Iedges and shoals, and is wide enough to accommodate the heavy traffic
of a busy dee p sea porto Much driftwood collects here with the tidal flow --
at time5 there 15 an incredible amount of debris in the water.

Prince Rupert's facilities Iie on the east side of the harbar. On the west
side of the harbor a narrow, buoyed, and intricate channei Ieads through Venn
Passage to the viI1age of Metlakatla, then out through the bay into Chatham
Strait. This channel is not recommended, though it shortens the trip northward.

When entering the harbor the deep sea terminals are first passed, followed
by the Fisherman's Co-op and Fairview Public Floats behind a breakwater. These
are usually fi1Ied with fishing vessels. The B.C. and Alaska Ferry Terminals
are next. The harbor front turns north'w'esterly after the Raih:ay Barge
TerminaI and the downto ... n part of Prince Rupert is visible. Beyond the cruise
ship dock there are the Prince Rupert Yacht Club floars, relatively small and
exposed behind a floating breakwater. Limited guest ~oorage is available.

The best pIace for transients 15 the Rushbrook Public Float5 10cated near
the top of the harbor. A floating 10g breakwater al10"'5 entry from either end,
but the south entrance has a rocky patch marked by a beacon. The northern
entrance i5 preferable. It is almost always necessary to squeeze in, or raft
up. The harbormaster contro1s berthing, and is a souree of 10eal information.
Water i5 at the fIoats. Garbage disposal is at the head of the pier.

Rushbrook is about a mi1e out of the main city center. While taxis are
avaiIab1e, walking is commonplace. On the way in one ...,i11 pass Smiles Seafood,
a highly reeommended eating pIace. The waterfront road joins the Prince Rupert
downtown core near the Courthouse and the Visitor's Bureau and ~useum.
Shopping centers, craft shops, and the Post Office are along 1st, 2nd, and 3rd
Avenues. A laundromat ,is on ~cBride, just up from the Courthouse. For a
nomina~ charge sho\o'ers can be had at the Pioneer Rooms on 3rd A\'enue in anlld,
but clean boarding house. The Esso fuei dock also has a shower which usually
has a queue.
'.
'.

'-,

~ P.. ,""Co. (..,p..,-t""

A"W'rDr~

KA.t E. ~
 SECTIOl'i 5

Prince Rupert to Wrangell

 ,~,.

NOI IO be used lor navigalion

p~ i "'-~I!

.(
W~lt!.

Cs.

cl.S . •• _ _-
GA. ... ·

@
Dt~ON NT~A.t-lC.E
 122

FOGGY BAY

The distance between the Ports of Entry of Prince Rupert and Ketchikan is
about 90 miles; in bet~een Iies Dixon Entrance. This is more than a norma l
day's travel for the average yacht. Thus Foggy Bay and Brundige Inlet on
Dundas Island are anchorages that ~ill help to break this distance in~o conven-
ient stages. One method ~ould be to use Brundige Inlet for the voyage north,
and Foggy Bay for the trip south. However, the crossing of Dixon Entrance is
a major step and a skipper might prefer to cross ~hen he can. If Foggy Bay is
to be used on the trip up, then it i5 advisable that V.S. Custorns in Ketchikan
be called from Prince Rupert for permission to stop over in Foggy Bay before
entering Ketchikan the next day.

The fnitiai portion of the crossing is in Chatham Sound, in the lee of

Dundas Isiand. It is after passing Green Island Lighthouse and the light on
Holiday Island at the northwestern tip of Dundas Island that the yacht faces
the lO miles of the actuai crossing of Dixon Entrance. Tree Point Lighthouse
in Alaska i5 a ~elcome sight indicating the cr055ing i5 completed, but the
s~ell stilI crashes on the lee shore as one moves up into Revillagigedo
Channel. Seven miles from Tree Point is Foggy Point, and the entrance into
Foggy Bay. The swell marks the reefs and rocks that surround the bay.

When turning into Foggy Bay one should clear the reefs that extend about
1/2 mile north of Foggy Point, then steer to pass south of the submerged reefs
that extend about 3/4 mile south and southeast of DeLong Islands. Ahead, on
the east si de of the bay an obvious opening leads into Very Inlet. The
entrance to an excellant anchorage lies south of this opening, behind a large,
wooded island. As one closes the shore the entrance becomes clearer, but never
obvious because the land behind appears to enclose it. Stay clear of the reefs
in the entrance, until the channel leading behind the island is visible.
Though narrow, a mid-channel route leads easily into the wider basin where
anchorage can be taken in 5 to 6 fathoms, mud.

The southern openings into the basin at the south end of the large island
are shallow, drying at low water. They give a vie~ into the outer bay where
swell marks the reef. If entering during the lc~er part of the tide the
various rocks, reefs, and shoals are clearly visible.

Anchorage can be taken in Very Inlet, but it can only be entered at high
water slack because of the rapids at the narro~s, hence it is not useful for a
transient vessel. Anchorage can a1so be taken in the outer part af Foggy Bay
(southeast corner) ~here a pipeline from a spring gives good water. However,
this anchorage is more exposed and less desirable.

There are additional anchorages in this area. Kah Shakes Cove is about 5
miles north of Foggy Bay. Ray Anchorage and ~forse Cove on Duke Island can be
used. The latter anchorage has a narrow entrance ~ith a drying rock near
mid-channel and thU5 should be entered at lo~ water. Since there are many
rock5 in this area it i5 not a recommended choice. In Canadian ~aters
anchorage can be taken in Brundige Inlet on Dundas Island. For sketch see page
197.
 - --- -

54- SS'N

FOGGY BAY
Revillagigedo Channel
Not to be used for navigat ion

510' , ~ ~2
, loeo I
I

"no\'$ ...uf ..t-Hi: CHU'ul

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ApPR..OAC.H"~JG: Fo~(;."'( bA"i Freo,", SE., dlsta",t a~"t- :!'~a.~.
 124

KETCHIKAN

The southernmost Port of Entry in Alaska, Ketchikan is a growing and active

city of 12,000. Its facilities sprawl along the east bank of Tongass Narrows.
The approach and entry to Ketchikan is straightforward -- one merely continues
up Revillagigedo Channel into Tongass Narrows.

There are three m'6ort~~la~~~~ ;if~ '~hevicinity. Approachlng from the south,
the first is tTiJQ.1I@5 Basin'. The entrance lies between a rock breakwater and a
floating 10g boomproYéEtor. Transient moorage areas are sho.:n on the sketch,
but they are usually fil1ed, so one normal1y takes a vacant berth whi1e
checking in. The advantage of Thomas Basin is that it is close to the downtown
area of Ketchikan. A good market is close by on Stedman Street while the
Customs Office is about 1/4 mile away on Main Street. At present Customs
Officers require the skipper to come ashore to the office to report in (they do
not come to the boat as in some Ports of Entry).

A telephone booth at the creek near the float walkway a110ws one to contact
the Harbormaster whose office is at Bar Point Basin. He can a1so be ca1led on
VHF Ch. 16. Since most berths in the Ketchikan area are rented, the harbor-
master wi11 inform the skipper which berths are temporarily empty and thus may
. be used. A fee 1s charged for daily use.

The next moorage 1s the City Floats. They are at the do~ntown waterfront,
but are usually filled, while even if space is available the wash from harbor
activity creates an uncomfortab1e moorage. Better moorage is available in the
Bar Point Basin which is about one mile northwest, where concrete and rock
breakwaters protect the floats. At present, shower and laundromat facilit1es
are in a small cafe. Though this basin lies about a mile from the downtown
area, alI facilities such as supermarkets, restaurants, bars, etc. can be found
along the way.

The 1IIIl docks are south of Thomas Basin, just northwest of the Coast Guard
base which 1s passed when entering the harbor. The Alaska State Ferry dock, as
we11 as the local ferry to the airport (loeated across Tongass Narrows) are
northwest of the Bar Point Basin.

Ketchikan is a lively and interesting pIace. The downtown area has the
usual tourist attraetions, shops, and marine stores. Creek Street, once a red
light district, 1s now a tourist area with many sma!l specialty stores.
Several wa1ks can be taken to explore the city and its immediate environs.
Brochures describing these walks can be obtained at the Ketchikan Visitor's
Bureau on Front Street. The Totem Heritage Center is of special interest as
totems are restored and other native crafts are displayed. About 3 miles south
of Ketch1kan 1s a large collection af totem poles at the Saxman Totem Park.
Another collection (with 'a replica of a community house) is lO miles.north at
Totem Bight State Historic Park.

Misty Fiords National Monument lies a short distance to the east. It may
be visited by boat or by using the many facilities available in Ketchikan. On
a c1ear day, an aeriai view is spectacular. However, Ketchikan and ~isty
Fiords lie in the 'wet' belt, and have up to 162 inches of rain per year.
Cloudy days are the norm for more than two-thirds of the year so if you
experience a sunny day with blue skies you are indeed fortunate!
 KETCH IKAN
C
I
500' ,... ,.. ...

DETAtL -
f)A.R POIt-JT E>AS\tJ I

Appr"t:,.",. 5ca.L(. " ....

.t..A/';.A j. 1;"~I...1~ J_
 126

~1EYERS CHUCK

Proceeding north from Ketchikan, the exit from Tongass Narrows is marked by
the Guard Island Lighthouse. Here there is a choice oE several directions to
follow: northeast up the Behm Canal to traverse the Misty Fiords; west across
Clarence Strait to Kasaan Bay and Kasaan, or north towards Wrangell. When
going north the course lies along the west coast of Cleveland Peninsula.
Ernest Sound opens from Clarence Strait at Lemesurier Point; about l 1/2 miles
southeast of the point is Meyers Chuc~.

This is a smalI, convenient harbor to use to split the distanee from

Ketchikan to Wrangell. It is formed by the protection of ~eyers Island and a
sereen of smaller i51ands against the side of lemesurier Point. As one
approaches the harbor from Clarence Strait the lighted microwave tower (visible
above the trees) pinpoints the loeation of the settlement. Meyers Island lies
north of the tower. The entrance to the harbor lies between the northern end
of Meyers Island (a light is displayed) and a buoy marking the reefs of the
smaii islands north of the light.

Misery Island (the Iarge island lying 1/2 mile northwest of Meyers Chuck)
has roeks awash at its southern end which are indicated by a green marker.
~hen entering, approach the entrance from due west, south of the green marker
to avoid the reefs that lie about 400 feet off the northwestern corner of
Meyers Island. Do not close Meyers lsland closer than 1/3 mile until the
entrance is clear. At the entrance the depths reduce sharply to about 3
fathoms -- the opening is clear midway between the buoy and the light. Upon
turning into the small harbar, the State-operated public flaat is found in the
northeast corner. A seapiane float extends northwesterly, near the gangway. A
reef that dries at low water lies further east af rhe seaplane float. The main
floats are open to transient moorage.

A 5mal1 private fioat, u5ualIy occupied by the fi5h buyers, is south of the
public float. Water and fuel may be obtained here. There is a smali store
with Iimited supplies and a Pest Office from which maii is picked up weekIv.
The southwestern corner of the harbor ha~ pilings and is used by fishermen for
their nets. A wind generator is on an island to the west. This settlement i5
devoted primarily ta fishing.

Anchorage can be taken in the harbar iE moorage is not available, but the
bottem i5 rocky. Anchorage can a150 be taken in the narrow arm beyond the
small islands forming the eastern side of the harbor. It i5 necessary to go
out of the entrance and around to enter it. As a matter of interest, the pilot
reports that this area ices up during the winter.

--- -_----------------"""="-
.. -.-""-......---~-

~_sllri&,. Pt.. tofiscry b..

App~llAc:.tUNG. MeYe~~ CHUCIC Fteo,..SSE., JiS.tdn-t abo..,t 3 ",,;/~"5.
 Àt-PQ.OA..c:..t,,,,c. M~yEIl·!o. C ..h.n:.1C.. FCo.-1 ttll<Jt.J, dislc....:1 cl, ...,t 2 "",ilu.
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Not to be used lor navigation
...
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~ (~"9"d"c. diSfu..bc_)
\4l

MEYERS CHUCK
Clarence St rai t
 128

VIXEN HARBOR

If one travelling to ~rangell by the seenie route which uses Ernest Sound
and Zimovia Strait then Vixen Harbor is a very pretty anchorage to use either
after Meyers Chuek, or as an alternative to it. The entranee is narrow and not
obvious until it is carefully lined up, but it is a well sheltered anchorage
backed by a beautiful mountain.

At Lemesurier Point (the southern point at the entrance to Ernest Sound)

several dangers lie offshore. Lemly Roeks are about 1/4 mile off the point
while McHenry Ledge i5 about 3/4 mi1e east. Strong magnetie disturbances ocCur
between Leme5urier and Cnion Points -- as much as 30 degrees was naticed at the
time of writing. Sinee compass courses cannot be relied on, good visibility i5
needed to be certain of the vessel's course and 10eation. This is especially
true in this area as the current sets towards Union Point.

It is necessary to proceed about 1/4 to 1/2 mile off the coast until the
entrance into Vixen Harbor ean be ascertained. The shallow southern entrance
is more obvious at first. Line up the northern entrance from offshore and
steer earefully through using a mid-channel eourse. The pilot indicates a
width of 100 yards but this may be the distanee betl-;een high water shorelines.
At Iow tide, reefs extending aut [rom both sides reduce the aetuai channel
width to about 60 feet, but the depth is at least 1 1/2 fathoms. Even though
it is more evident, do not attempt the sauthern entrance for shoals reduce it
far more than the main entrance.

Once past the islands and within the harbor it opens up nicely. Anchorate
can be taken in about 4 1/2 fathoms, mud. The views of the mountains to the
southeast are spectacular and the anchorage is peaceful.

On leaving, clear the entrance and set a visual eourse until well clear af
the magnetic effects of the area before re1ying on the compasso Other anchor-
ages in the area include the cove behind ~~gnetic Point and a smaller cove
behind the nearby islands ~here houses have been erected.

Zimovia Strait is a pretty, much used rcule to ~rangell. The Narrows are
clearly marked and are interesting to traverse. ~haletail Cave looks inviting
as ao anchorage, but the entrance is shoal.

Thorne Bay and Snug Anchorage are across Clarence Strait on Prince of Wales
Island. Ratz Harbor i5 about lO miles north of Snug Anchorage on Prince of
~ales lsland. Across from Ratz Harbor on Etolin Island is McHenry Anchorage.

M.:I9,,&t'c flc. U\JIOU ~.....'f

ApPR.OA.C.H IO V/xEN. He,~. FIZ.O~ 5W J i.t.. ac:.rosS U"'.or'\ eo.i

 SI1o.IIGw s.
e.o..t"'a. .....e i~
- e."ide...t 0'"' ~rOQ."h
, AppR,O .... CHItoJG Hee ~2!)M "HJE. [ZIMOv'I .... S"T'2...),d~td"'t l .-n i I&..
,, \hX€.N

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"

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T
5t ... oW\~ mCl.C3nctic Jiù"u... ~.s
will affe,t "'jOU,," c:..ompo.SS
i... l'h;" t. .
~o..

1 !I
UN'O... f'>".
"'t"

Not tO be !I$ed fo' navigation

VIXEN HARBOR

Ernest Sound

J
I!>"l"' 'S'W
 130

WRANGELL

Wrangell lies near the north end of Wrangell Is1and. It may be approached
from Clarence and Stikine Straits, up Zimovia Strait, or up Eastern Passage and
around the northern tip of the is1and. Wrange11 has a population of about
2,300. The magnificent backdrop of the Stikine :-1ountains combined Io.'ith the
town's frontier appearance attracts the cruise ships.

The main harbor extends along the shore, but the small craft harbor is in a
bight behind Point Skekesti, where a Io.'ooden breakwater extends partly across
the entrance to provide shelter in the southern cove. This cove is divided
into an outer and inner harbor. In the outer harbor the floats on the ""estern
side are used by commerciaI vessels. Fuel docks are also on this side. The
long floats on the eastern side have transient moorage ""hich is almost al""ays
filled -- one can expect to raft up. The harbormaster's office is at the head
of the walkway, a shrimp cannery lies behind il. (Phew!)

The inner harbor is approached through a connecting channel having about 2

fathoms, marked by day beacons. The floats in the inner harbor cater to small
craft and pOlo.'er boats. Limited turning room makes this area awkward for large
sailing vesse1s. In 1985 moorage in any part of ~rangell Harbor was free for
24 hours, with a daily fee thereafter.

The harbormaster at Wrangell also controls Shoemaker Boat Harbor which lies
about 3 1/2 miles SSE, near Wrangell Institute. The breakwater of the harbor
is visible as one approaches Wrangell, and although it is a cleaner area, its
distance from the town is a disadvantage.

Wrangell was originally located at the mouth of the Stikine River because
it controlled the route into the interiore Russian, British, and American
flags ha ve flovn over the town. This was an important trading point for the
Tlingit Indians. On Shakes Island are several totem poles and a replica
communitv Chief Shakes house which can be approached by follo""ing a ""ooden
walkway from near the harbormaster's office. The old false front business
houses along Front Street and other buildings in the streets behind give
evidence of the age of the town. The Visitor's Bureau (near the cruise ship
terminaI at the northern end of the to~n) can provide information on petroglyph
locations and other points of interest.
 :':Y."i'·'
,;.. ,;,,,,,, .. ot W"-9&tt
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\
0, "._:Ic.. W~A""GoE. L.L !:s .
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WRANGELL
- Cl ~
NOI IO be U1ed for navi<)ation

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o 100'

Affi' 1""0>(. S~lc.

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K...... 4o...i .fc.&c
 132

SECTION b

Wrangell to Juneau
 Not to be used lor naviga:ron

134-
WRANGELL NARROWS

This waterway is a well known and exciting part of any trip in Alaska and
the passage provides the shortest route bet~een Wrangell and Petersburg. The
southern entrance at Point Alexander on ~!itkof Island (off Sumner Strait) is
about 20 miles west of ~rangell. The Narrows consist of 21 miles of waterway
with over 66 navigation markers, leading to Petersburg in the north, where it
opens on to Frederick Sound. At night, ~ith its myriad of flashing red and
green lights i t is easy to understand its nickname of "Christmas Tree Lane."

It i5 not pos5ible with the small charts and brief eomments of this guide
to describe the many details of the ~arrow5, nor is it intended. This guide
merely describes significant and interesting aspects of the passage. It i5
essentiai that the navigator use large scale Chart #17375.

The ship channel narro~s in plaees to 300 feet wide, and though the major
section was dredged to 24 feet the contro11ing depth in 1983 was 19 feet.
Presently the 1arger vessels that ~ight be encountered are the Alaska State
Ferries, which use the narro~s at high tide. ~hen one has to share it with a
ferry the channel can appear almost too narro~, but ~ith luck you may not see
one.

Far smal1 boat use when navigating the channel it is recommended that chart
17375 (which divides the Narrows into two sections printed side by side) be cut
along the vertical division; then match and tape the two sections together in a
long continuous chart of the waten.;ay. By folding this into four it gives a
handy and useful reference chart size at the helm far the actual transito It
wil1 assist navigation if a check mark is placed as each odd (or even) beacon
is passed. This will not only determine position but will a1so allow a skipper
to make a quick decision as to whether he can move off the channel (and to
which side) if a large vessel is met in the Narrows. With the aid of the chart
the passage can be taken easily by alI small craft. High-speed powered vessels
should slow down to reduce the turbulence of the wake they create.

Far most slow-speed small craft goir.g either way, the passage should be
conunenced on the last part of the flood. The currents enter \\rangell Narro~s
from both ends to meet at about Green Point (9 miles from Petersburg and 12
miles from the southern entrance). Thus, a prudent skipper wi!l arrange his
entry to carry a favorable current alI the ~ay through.

In foggy weather i l is strongly recommended that the passage be deIayed

untii it i8 clear, even if the vessel is equipped with radar. If fog is
encountered when in the passage it is wise to haul wel1 of! the ehanne1 at the
first opportunity to anchor and ~ait for clearing. Though yachts can do this
at severa l places the best site i5 at Halfmoon Anchorage (about 8 1/2 miles
from the southern entrance), where depths are 2 to 3 fathorns, mud. Other areas
off the channel may have hard or rocky bottoms and kelp.

Dry Strait is an apparent alternative route north from Wrangell, but it

should not be attempted without 10ea1 kno~ledge. Considerable shoaling and
muddy water, with strong currents can put a stranger in difficu1ties. Keku
Strait, further west of the Sarrows is not avaiIable as navigation markers have
been removed. The only alternative to the Narrows is to proceed through Sumner
Strait, around Cape Decision and up Chatham Strait.
®

@ fyCl ........... k.c,. ",q ,,~'"' 'd~tlrl:u"'1

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No! IO be used far navigation

WRANGELL

~. f.",tY4I'1U. O", tkl .flDo&, fips

DCc.u" off P..i .. t Alb4.,du.
NARROWS
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~ ..... ,..1> ~ ,- I '. I
 136

PETERSBURG

The charming town of Petersburg lies at the northern end of Wrangell

Narrows, on the tip of Mitkof Island. This busy town of 3,000 people is more
coneerned with fishing and lumbering than with tourists. This refreshing
attitude is reflected in the prosperity of the people, the expanded boat
harbors, and in the number of large seiners and fishboats. The Norwegian
heritage of many of the inhabitants is eelebrated each May 17,(Norwegian
Independence Day) during the annual "Li t tle Non.ay Festival." Other signs of
this pride are seen in the rosemaling on buiIding fronts and the replica of a
Viking vessel in the harbor.

There are three major boat harbors in Petersburg, but the main transient
accommodation is'the northernmost, between the ~nitney-Fidalgo Seafoods pier
and the Petersburg Fisheries Cannery docks. The harbormaster's office is at
the head of the dock, where everyone is helpful and friendly. A reasonable
mooring charge is assessed, and depending on one's location, eleetrical power
may be available. Water is at the tap on the transient dock. If one's vesse1
is over 50 feet, a calI to the Harbormaster will al10w him to accommodate one
at the larger berths in the southern harbors if any of the resident seiners are
away. He may be reached via VHF Ch. 16 or CB Ch.9.

In the same buiIding as the harbormaster's office are restrooms and a 1arge
coin-operated stainless steel shower. Although it often has a Queue when the
fishing boats come in, it's worth the wait! Adjacent to the showers is the
Visitor Center where maps and guides can be obtained. A grid is just below the
walkway. Garbage and waste oil di sposaI faeiIities are nearby.

Main Street 1s half a bIoek from the dock. There are t~o major grocery and
hardware stores, The Trading Union and Hammer &Wikan. Also within walking
distance is a hospital, post offiee and an intriguing little museum.

If one i5 on a budget there is open mooring at the West Petersburg Public

Float, across Wrangell Narro ...·s in the community of Kupreanof. Note that there
i5 no public tran5portation back and forth to Petersburg.

The weather 15 dominated by rain, there being ao annual average of 106

inches. Heavy weather gear and boots are right in style for every day wear in
Petersburg. In faet when one hears the rain pounding on the deck you will
likely hear the 10ea1 radio announcer cheerfully reporting. "Today we'll have a
few sprinkles!"

Upon exiting the Narrows from Petersburg one enters Frederick Sound. The
spectacular mountain view behind Petersburg is highlighted by the granite rock
pinnaele of the Devil'~ Thumb. Just 25 miles southeast is Le Conte Glacier,
the southernmost tidewater glacier. It is well worth visiting, but shoaling at
the entrance to the bay makes entry difficult without 10ca1 information. Ice-
bergs from the glaeier can often be seen in Frederick Sound.
 r.=::::;?-~1tm::Ijtil tiQU:- Nort'h tt.:v},oyo o ....\~ ho~
...... L L , . - _ ~~i~.d. bcrlhs. O\ecJ&. ",il\..
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PETERSBURG
\ 1 v..-. :z
,.,.. ...... Not to be used for navigation

•N·
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 138

PORTAGE BAY

This protected and very pIeasant anchorage Iies on the south side of
Frederick Sound, indenting Kupreanof IsIand. It is very different from the
bays that lie on the other side of the Sound, ~ith their glaciers coming down
to sea level. Portage Bay provides a go od stop far vessels proceeding roughly
east or west along Frederick Sound to or from Petersburg.

The low points that lie each side of the, entrance are marked by the two
smalI Portage Islets roughIy 3/4 of a mile ~est of the entrance. On the east
si de the mountains of the Missionary Range rise between the bay and Petersburg,
and some 5 no",' usua11y remains on them throughout the year.

Stay about a mile offshore, and when the entrance is clear begin the
approach. Both East and West Points project into the opening with shoals that
reduce the useful passage to about 500 feet. The tidal flm..' into and out of
the fairIy long bay can attain considerable velocities at times. However,
except at the maximum tides vessels can enter, and usually use a natura 1 range
to guide the vessel into the channel.

East Point has a light on a tower with a green daymark. The tip of the
grassy verge should be aligned on Hook Paint (~ith a gap in the trees and a hut
now hidden in undergrowth), and on a lo~ peak behind--as shown in the sketch.
Follow this bearing tilI at the entrance, round ~est Point first, then East
Point, staying about mid-channeI. West Point has a red daybeacon on it. Once
in the bay, past East Point there is a large shoaI bay to the west, and a
booming ground to the east. One can anchor in about 5 fathoms in this area of
the booming ground. However, better anchorage is further in.

A prominent Iogging camp Iies on the east side about a mile and half into
the inlet. Anchor in the middIe of the bay, slightly beyond the camp, in about
4 to 6 fathoms. Do not go too clase to the shoreline. The main part of the
bay i5 large enough to accommodate many boats.

Further into the bay Stop Isiand marks the beginning of shoal1ing, and this
part of the bay is named Gaose Bay. Harrington Rock is about a quarter mile
north of Stop Island.

The village of Kake is about 12 miles west of Point Gardner at the entrance
to Frederick Sound, and about 15 miles ~est of Portage Bay. Kake has public
floats, stores, lodges, and other servìces. It also has the '. .;orld's "tallest"
totem pale which is visible from ~eII offshore. The village is at the entrance
to Keku Strait, but the use of this route is not recommended. ApparentIy alI
navigational markers have been removed by the (oast Guard ~hich i5 not
encouraging the use of this dangerous passage.
 \\\P\

POR TA.c;.~ o.bO\J't 5 ~\le.::. .

L·- I
Po~a.-3e h4·O.,)

PORTAGE BAY

FREDERICK SOUND
o 1
Àpp..-o,c.. 5ca.le tUtl.

Not to be used for navigation

1»'20,,",
'Sll.~. (1486)
L. ..... P.... 6:;.
~ok. Po;.... 1" (hoIt;... -tv~l)

E~,. fZ..A P-Jc.E

A PP R..OA C H It-J'- 2. "",il~~.

 140

THOMAS BAY

Ten miles north of the buoys at the Petersburg entrance to ~rangell

Narrows, and across Frederick Sound is the entrance to Thomas Bay. This is the
first opportunity to see a glacier fa1rly closely. The entrance to Thomas Bay
lies between Point Vandeput in the northwest and Wood Point in the southeast.
Although the two points are about 2 1/4 miles apart, shoaling and reefs at the
mouth of the bay are exten~ive, thus reducing the opening to a narrow, buoyed
entrance. Depending on the state of the tide, considerable turbulence and
swirls may be encountered at the entrance, but with care in watching one's
course and drift there is no difficulty in entering.

The water here is noticeably milky with glacial silt. The shape of the bay
may be likened to a lazy T, resting on its side. The east side of the cross
arm of the T is a range of peaks, whose flanks descend in steep sides to the
water. Several land slides mark the tree-clad slopes, and severa l waterfalls
can be seen.

The northern arm ends at Baird Glacier. Though nol a tide~ater glacier at
this time, it 1s not very far back from the water's edge, and except far the
lack of ice discharged into the bay it prov1des very scenic views. Do not
approach the end of the inlet closer than half a mile, for considerable
shoaling occurs due to the discharge of silt down the glacial river.

Near the end of the northern arm, a narrow steep-walled inlet leads off to
the east. This is Scenery Cove, a small version of Fords Terror. Almost over-
hanging walls hem the sides, wh1ch shoal quickly at the head. In very settled
weather it i5 possible to anchor on a 9-fathom shelf extending off the northern
entrance point of the cove. Anchor off a prominent scar on the face. One can
anchor there and take a dinghy to the flats below the face of the glacier and
walk up to explore it. However, a better and safer anchorage 1s available in
the south arm of Thomas Bay. Ruth Island lies roughly north- south; on its
50utheastern 5ide are two coves. Both can be used as anchorages, but the
preferred cove 15 the 50uthern one.

Anchorage is also possible close to the shore south of a prornìnent cascade

behind Spray Island. But like Scenery Cove, thìs anchorage has very limited
shelf area close to a steep mountainside.

The southern arm of Thomas 3ay has the termiqal. river of Patterson Glacier,
which has receded so far back that its only vis1ble remains are the moraines.

Puççin
 ~I
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":=::;:::: RU,H 15, 5 ~ COVE

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i

Not to be used for navigatlon

FREDERICK SOUND
o 1 2 3
'--~-===~I----====~I--------~I
<!..~ _I~
 142

HOBART BAY

Cape Fanshawe marks the point where Stephens Passage opens northward off
Frederick Sound. These are wide stretches of sea, where weather conditions can
create rough water. There is an anehorage near the Cape in Cleveland Passage
behind Whitney Island. It is in 6 to 8 fathoms at the southeastern end, tucked
east of East Spit (a rocky shoal awash at low water which projeets out from the
mainland). While the pilot recommends entry [rom the north around whitney
Island, sm3l1 vessels ean enter from the south by keeping a mid-ehannel course
and allowing for a clear berth of East Spit. However, this anchorage is
relatively openi swell affects it and gusty southeast winds often blow down the
nearby mountains.

The course northward passes Five Fingers Islets, on which is a lighthouse

often mentioned in loeal weather reports. This is useful for reekoning the
weather in Stephens Passage. Port Houghton is the first large bay on the
mainland, but being deep it provides no anehorage.

Hobart Bay opens into the mainland about 5 miles further, and at first
appears to be a shallow indentation. It is marked by small islands, The Twins,
two miles west, and by Sunset Island, a larger island about 5 miles north.

Entrance Island lies in the center of the entranee to Hobart Bay. Behind
it a long, high arm projects outwards, almost closing the opening into the
inner part of Hobart Bay. A sland pipe and several visible houses mark a large
logging operation, with snow-clad peaks in the background.

The anchorage and moorage lie in a small L-shaped inlet on the southern
side of Entrance Island. As one approaches the island from either direction a
large fault is visible. On the rocky south shore there is a small niehe with a
house behind the stony beach. This is seen before the true opening is visible.
Turn into the small inlet, where the State maintains a 100-foot float in the
western niche. It is unconnected to the shore, exeept for two underwater
cables that affect the ability of alI but very sma1l vesse1s to use the south
side of the float. The house previously seen on the approaeh is on the neck of
1and behind the float. This is a quiet and restfu1 spot, used primari1y as a
weather lay-over by vessels travelling these waters.

It is possible to enter the remainder of Hobart Ba, through the narrow,

rock-strewn entrance, and to find other a~ehorage immediate1y northwest of the
entry. But the currents and multitude of roeks diseourage sueh exploration
especial1y when the quiet moorage at Entrance Island is avai1ab1e.

There are two other anchorages in this area. Cannery Cove in Pybus Bay is
on the west side of, and across Stephens Passage. When anchoring in Windham
Bay one should anchor in a niche near the entrane e ùr proeeed far into the bay
and anchor at the head.
 E.....h-o-"GL- .." ~I'""'l. '--J~~ Ca.-p
E. N-r~ANCE. r~. IN HoBAR-r B'AY ~::"'sta.~:t aboùt" \ ""'~ le.

ENTRANCE IS.

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,
Not to be used for navigation
 144

HOLKAM BAY

This is a spectacular and very scenic area, with long fiords and ca1ving
tidewater glaciers. Though there are few secure anchorages a visit to this
area is truly worthwhi1e. Tracy Arm is the attraetion -- tourists being
brought here in high-speed craft from as far away as Juneau.

Holkam Bay has a 5-mile wide opening bet~een Point Coke in the north and
Point Ast1ey in the south. A long isiand, Harbor Island, ~ith severai smaller
islands stretch across the bay. Aeross the bay Wood Spit and its extension of
tidal fIats and islands reaches up from the south shore towards them. Tracy
Arm and Endicott Arm are two long fiords that extend rough1y north and south-
east respeetively from the bay. High, snow-clad mountains and spectacu1ar
glaciers form the backdrop for these arms.

Traey Arm

Enter Tracy Arm by going around the north point of Harbor Island to pick up
the unlit range on Harbor Is1and that 1eads through the shoal areas at the
mouth. A day beacon is located on the opposite shore. Currents can be up to 4
knots, and swirls and tidai effects ~il1 be encountered in the entrance. For
entering the Arm use the detailed information on Chart 17360.

Tracy Arm extends north for about 9 mi1es before turning east in a sinuous
passage between steep, high, Yosemite-like cliffs for 13 miles to its head.
Here the North and South Sawyer Glaciers discharge into the sea. Icebergs are
encountered throughout the passage, becoming more numerous as the glaciers are
approached. The South Sawyer Giacier is the more active of the two; whether
the glaciers can be approached depends on ice conditions. The water in Tracy
Arm is very deep, and the only anchorage possible is near the entrance. Take
care to avoid the rocky shoal at the east point of the entrance. Though this
anchorage is of reasonable depth and protection it is open to the southeasti
thus in bad weather it would be better to retreat to Taku or elsewhere.

Endicott Arm

This Arm can be entered from the north by passing behind Harbor Island, or
from a point 1 mile north of Point Astley one can steer for prominent Sumdum
Glacier in order to reach the entrance. Wood Spit Light marks the southern
part of this half-mile wide entrane e which is more easily entered than Tracy
Arm. Swirls will be encountered here. It is about 27 miles along the Arm to
Dawes Glacier which discharges ice directly into the sea.

About 5 miles into Endicott Arm is an anchorage at Sanford Cave on the

south side, abreast of Sumdum Island. It is an indifferent anchorage, dee p and
on a narrow shelf -- not highly recommended. ' The anchorage in Tracy Arm is
preferred as a base, even with the few additionai mi1es.

Fords Terror is a spectacular, narrow, steep-walled in1et about 5 miles

long. It is on the north side of Endicott Arm and about 13 miles from Sumdum
Island. About 1 1/4 miles into this inlet it narro~s and shallows consider-
ably, entry being possib1e anI, at high water slack. This oecurs about 20
minutes after high tide in Juneau. Currents run to 15 knots, with overfalls.
Anchorage is in the west arm, off a waterfa11 in the northwest corner.
 •~ ..
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........ -.
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.
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'

TRACY & ENDICOTT ARMS

HOLKAM BAY
o ~ IO .......
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App ....
OH. S::..o.Lf: +-- Mo.M..

NOl lO be used for navigation

..

SUM.set l'S.
~
 146

TAKC

This harbor is within 20 miles of Juneau, though one would not normally
make so short a run near one of the major ports of a trip. However, it has one
inestimable benefit in that it provides a safe harbor if very strong winds are
blowing down Taku Inlet.

Taku Inlet is 15 miles long and opens into the east side of Stephens
Passage just beyond Taku Harbor. It has a spectacular backdrop of glaciers and
peaks. Taku Glacier is advancing and producing sediments which make the upper
part of the Inlet shoal. It acts as a funnel far the cold and powerfui wìnds
coming down from the icefieIds above. Stephens Passage is well known for the
strength and bone-chilling temperatures of these heav}' winds. While passage in
summer is never as bad as in winter (when icing is an additional problem) it
can be a rough and uncomfortab1e trip. In such cases it is wise to retreat to
the security of Taku Harbor and wait for caimer weather before proceeding.
Taku Mountaìn (2,100 feet) is a prominent, conical landmark which rises
between the entrance and Stockade Point (a lo", forested peninsula). It marks
the entrance into the harbor. The entrance is wide and deep and has no
difficuities. A light is on Grave Point, the southern tip of Taku Mountain.

The ruins of a Iarge cannery wharf are near the northeastern corner of the
protected harbor. About 600 feet south are the T-shaped public floats having a
200-foot face and a lOO-foot cross arm which are connected to the boardwa1k on
shore by a 150-foot float ( ...·aIkway). The main floats have at 1east 2 fathoms
or more alongside. No facilities are available, but Juneau is close by. ~atch
far oid pilings when manoeuvering in the dock area.

The harbor i5 shoal at its northern head and in the southern section.
Anchorage is possible in the southeastern part in 7 to 9 fathoms, 50ft bottom.
Some minor current effects may be noticed. ~inds can swirl off the mountains
around the harbor, but the harbor is secure.

Limestone Iniet is the narrow opening Iess than 2 miles south of Taku
Harbor. It is an ecologica l research area and has no anchorage.

Siocum InIet, about 5 miles north of Taku Harbor is shoal. No anchorage is

avaiIable here. On the south shore is Butier Peak an even more conical peak
than Taku Mountain, but half its size. AlI of these shores are steep and
heavily wooded. The power lìne rcute is evident a10n8 the coast.

Grand Isle Iies in the middie of Stephens Passage. It is prominent from

the south -- steepIy slopìng. Though it can be passed on eìther si de the usual
route passes it on the east.

Apart from the discomforting winds down Taku Inlet, the trip can be enjoyed
for its scenery, and to savor the approach to Juneau. Excursion flights can be
taken from Juneau over the glaciers and icefields. Taku Glacier Lodge is
situated at the head of the inlet where overnight accommodation and guided
tours can be arranged. Information on these facilities can be obtained at the
Visitar Information Center or by enquiring at the Merchants ~harf in Juneau.
 DETAIL - TAKU
• • , • I

?.-i"4tL l.o~ H~4t.:=='=='oz::=~-tt

l '
TAKU HARBOR
, '
~ù:. ' ,',
t
I~
1,.
i.(J',
,,
'. ..
,
.
STEPHENS PASSAGE

,~~ "
."0«"., ,, ,'" '
~cks bGi'L4J' , :, ·
J ", ,..~ """
At- LDI4J '-titJ e
"./.' ,'"
Not IO be used for navigation

;~~. ' " ' ,

!~ .. ' , , "

--'--

~
'-.-----
~
\..------
.---------
.-J ....___-.......J-..-----

_--------
......
~

t;.\'C'ss ~ ....o",d Is. :;

f .." j",$ , <:.. csst:"M\) eh)
~te..phe.nS Po. ss~e 'f'o H.'~Q._ t>~)'
ApPR.oA.c.~ uP S"EPl-4E.N~ .p~,.:~5AG~ 1"0 HoLKH.\.M &A'i I=ROM S'E:.
 148

SECTlON 7

Juneau to Glacier Bay to Sitka

 I~· I~O
~------~-------------+------------~--~~-------+------------~------------~~

Not to bI! used for navigation

+-~------~~--~~-+--------------~Ao~~---4-------------------------t+'~S1

I~·
 150

JUNEAU

This is the state CapitaI and the Iargest city of the South East, ~ith
21,000 people. The city lies along the west bank of Gastineau Channei beneath
the steep flanks of Mount Juneau and it extends northwesterly to Mendenhall
Valley and Auke Bay. The town of Douglas is across the channel. The main port
area is a cruise ship anchorage, while facilities far yachts are beyond the
bridge which joins the communities of Douglas and Juneau. The bridge has a
clearance of 51 feet.

Some transient moorage is available at the City Floats near the ferry
terminaI, but the main transient moorages are at Harris and Aurora Harbors
immediately beyond the bridge. The harbormaster's office is on the southeast
corner of Aurora Basin. He assigns and controls alI transient moorage. Report
to him on arrivaI, either by ca11ing on VHF Channe1 16 or checking into his
office. If alI transient slips are filled. one may have to take a vacant slip
until directed elsewhere. One can genera11y be accommodated in a temporari1y
vacant slip but one may have to move around if one is staying for an extended
period of time. Aurora is the newer basin, with good berths but a lack of
sanitary facilities (having only two portable johns for its severa l hundred
slips).

It is about 1/2 mile from Aurora to downtown Juneau; half that from Harris.
Showers and a laundromat are at the Breakwater Motel immediately behind Aurora.
Unfortunately, one must cross Egao Drive Freeway each time. The walk downtown
along the street one block inland from the freeway takes one past a super-
market, stores, restaurants, the post offiee, the Alaska State Museum, and
Centennial Hall. Both of the latter places are well worth a visit to- learn
about this part of Alaska.

Juneau is a tourist oriented city. There seems to be a cruise ship or two

docked almost alI the time. Many tourist shops are in the downtown area.
Perhaps with this regular tourist parade and the winter's legislative period
(marked by an influx of elected officials, staffs, and lobbyists) this city
loses its friendliness when compared with other communities of the South East.

A visit to Mendenhall Glacier can be accomplished by city bus or rented

caro Hiking trails are found at the Center. The new community areas of
Mendenhal1 Valley are served by a large shopping center where one may shop if
one's needs are not being met in Juneau. The airport is also located here.

Auke Bay faces Favorite and Saginaw Channels and has its own harbar basin
and marine facilities. Transient boats are limited to a 72-hour stop-aver
unless one is anchoring. Auke Bay may be reached by the long trip down
Gastineau Channel and around Douglas Island or via Mendenhall Channel. The
latter route should only be attempted at high tide, and with 10eal information.
Though the channel is marked, at low water the markers can be seen resting on
bars, thus current knowledge of the channel is essential befare one uses this
route.
 JUNEAU

NOI IO be used for navigalion

11.. ...
500' ,
1000'
!

se~tLo .....

Nate..:-

,. - Te(4fc>hOl1e.
o - O i l d i ~u.,. 1:.:,. ""k:,

~
-III

Mc. .:f"",a.u ~
{.... ~. T-w.)

"'Ci;':. :.·i'.:~.~r'·
.. ".'
. .:. :. .
..q~)o..
,.1 C,..uiH !i~Lp

t~ li.V\~hè!l"A'3C
!io'

I "1 V
.......... j

' '.Q. . FL
 So · 152

LYNN CANAL

This long and beautiful

inlet and its arms reach about
85 miles N~~ from the junction
of Chatham and Icy Straits. It
is deep and varies in width from
3 to 6 miles. Lined on both
sides by glaciers and peaks,
this can be a very scenic trip.
"-
," I
,:;/
Haines

This town of 1,700 people

has a spectacular backdrop
composed of the Cathedral Peaks.
It lies on the west side of
Chilkoot Inlet in Portage Bay.
The small boat harbor is pro-
tected by a rock breakwater.
Entry should be made via the
southern entrance. The Harbor-
master controls berths in the
harbor. The ferry terminaI is
at Lutak Iniet a few miles out
of town. The Haines Highway is
the only year-round road which
joins the Alaska Highway.

The Chilkat Dancers give

evening performances at Fort
William H. Seward. Local Indian
arts and crafts are readiIy
available in the shops. Showers,
a laundromat, and restaurants
are available in the town, while
fuel and \'"ater may be obtained
in the harbor.

Skagwav

Skagway lies near the end of

Taiya Inlet off Chilkoot Inlet.
The population of 1,800 is
greatly reduced from the infam-
ous city of 30,000 in the days
of Soapy Smith. However, it
stilI relies on its gold rush
history for its interest and
attractions. A highway gives
access in summer to the Alaska
Highway. With the closing of
the mines the White Pass and
Yukon Railway is not operating.

Not tO be used for Nlvigation

 "'0"",", .~.···.:\·S~GWAY
.~ Not to be used for navigation
Shi p Loc.d inq a,...~ !:'

PA .. k.,·",~
W.tb.:r.y l. ,,".M~
5~·27·

SKAGWAY
~Ik. ,
IAIYA
,-' 301> ' !Sqo'
ApproJC. -SCAl~ f't.t.t ~ ., . ..,.

Not to be used for navigation

1-.
W
..J
"Z
!;"q o 14.' II.!

. Dr: i-
O
HAfN€S O
':i.
...J

HAINES
o Soo',
----_.
! IO" '

Àppll'"DrC. Sca.le (ed. q !'t."'.

 154

The small boat harbor is protected by a breakwater and Iies adjaeent to the
ferry terminaI and the railway. Fuel ean be obtained at a fioat in the
southern end of the harbor.

A~CHORAGES AT THE SOUTH ESD OF LY~S CA\AL

The junction of Lynn Canal, Chatham, dnd ley 5traits is a erossroads for
yachts bound to ~r from Glacier Bay or Juneau. There are t~o very good
anchorages in this area, while Hoonah lies aeross Icy Strait.

Funter Bay

Hansfield Peninsula projects \:\W off Admiralty Island \.;1 th lynn Canal on
its west side. Funter Bay is on the west side, about lO ~iles south of Point
Retreat (the tip of Mansfield Peninsula). It is a fairIy large bay with
several islands near the entranee.

On a northern approaeh Naked Island (with a light on it) and the pair af
smaller islands called the "Kittens" should be passed on their west side. The
northern point of the entrance to Funter Bay is Clear Point (with a llght on
it). There is a wide opening to the group of islands off the southern point of
the entrance -- Rat Island, Station Island, and two smaller islets.

Roughly east af Clear Point Light and against the southeastern side of the
bay is a ISO-foot State operated float, unconnected to the shore. Another
State-operated 100-foot float can be found at the ruins of the cannery wharf in
the northern part of the bay, between Coot and Crab Coves. Caution is needed
in this area due to the ruins of the wharf and a roeky ledge nearby.

S.... anson Harbor

Acr05s Lynn Canal from Funter Bay is S~anson Harbor, formed by a group of
islands lying off the lend. Rocky Tsland, a prominent, lighted, rounded,
grass-topped rock stands below these islands. Set a eourse to clear Point
Couverden and to approach Rocky Island. Leaving Rocky Island astern, proeeed
northwesterly, then follow along the southwest shore of Couverden Island, then
take a mid-ehannel course between it and Entrance and Ansley IsIands success-
ively. Around the north .... estern tip of Couverden Island 1s a bight with dryi~g
flats and a 5mall island to the west. Here a l50-foot State operated float is
loeated, uneonnected to the shore. Boats can moor on both sides.

At high tide the scenic mountains behind Juneau and Auke Bay ean be seen
from the float. When it is calm the float has many annoying deer flies, but
with any breeze they are not in evidence.

Allernate anchorage can be taken off the stony beach on AnsIey Island on the
west side of the harbor on the shelf close to shore. l.drge vessels could anchor
in the bight at the head. The gap between Ansley and Entrance Islands has
rocks and reefs that discourage use. From Rocky lsland courses may be set down
Chatham or Icy Strai ts .Deot. .l~~ttìs on pale 157.
 a.bo"t 2 Mi le~.

"'" ~t
.
f~~.
" . ......
~
~

II

Ic..y _----
yijIco : ; : : :
via h4-H\a
....i+.~~t-.....I-
-~
""'--- SiRAl1 -~ focJc)' LJI Not to be used for navigation
II)
It)
O fl.4~.
1"0 C;l~j..... &.~I • o
[OGwIat, E.Vr CDllc. j ~ -
~

ANCHS. AT THE S. END OF

o, 1, 2., 3,
Appr &l'':'. Sc:.d L~ l't.W\.. LYNN CANAL

L'i""\. ~O'\.Cl\
A2>o\JI DfJE t.AILt=: CUI fR.otw\ /Hf ENIR.A..NCE.
 156

HOONAH

This 1s the Iargest Tiingit community of the South East. The village lies
on the east 5ide of Port Frederick, which is an inlet on Chicagof Island on the
south side of Icy Strait.

Enter Port Frederick after passing the light at Inner Point Sophia. The
fish plant facilities just behind the point are the Excursion Inlet Packing
Corporation docks. Continue past them for about 1 1/2 miIes to Hoonah,
entering the 5mall boat harbor beyond Pitt Island. Pass east of Pitt IsIand
and between the two breakwaters. The transient float is at the north end of
the basini which is operated by the town. Fuel can be obtained at the docks,
and water and power is available at the floats.

A walk along the grave I shore road will take one to the stare, cafe, and
gift shops. The cultural center has interesting loeaI exhibits. The State
ferry makes regular stops at Hoonah.

HOONAH
~N
,

Not to be used for navigation

... .,.,p
~ oit. (.fwl)
1+_-", ~e.fo...i$

Jfoo"..r,..
.~ ~ .. ~~:
.... 6 ....t M4rt....

FiS,",
>tY"Cl"'3 c.u."rev.t
1)0 "'01" uSi . .

ShD4l
I
 -------:-A"'1~1

NEAR.INC; TI-4E. TUJef.l m 5wAt-JsotJ HÀR.eo~ FLO.A..-r

NOI IO be used for nlvigetion

-- .
' ..
L ""1' ~ t.J c.A. tJ A L

...
-l'
....
"

,
.........
-. ..

.te'
r

SWANSON HARBOR
S
ICV STRAIT
IOO~ o,
I
S'-"ILe.
Stccp
 158

GLACIER BAY

This magnificent area ... i th i ts high, permanently snm.-clad peaks and over
20 large and many smaller glaeiers (13 of ... hich reach the sea) is included in
the 4,400 square miles of Glacier Bay National Monument. Yachts, loeal tour
boats, and cruise ships bring many visitors to the Bay. But since entry is
controlled by the National Park Service speciai restrictions regarding entry
are enforced as noted belo~.

The entrance to Glacier Bay is north off of Icy Strait, and lies bet ... een
Point Gustavus on the east and Point Carolus on the ... est. The bay is large, of
varying ... idth, and extends in t ... o major arms. It is about 45 miles north to
the head of Muir Inlet and 54 miles northwest to the head of either Tarr or
John Hopkins Inlets. The ....·estern portion of the Park includes the peaks of the
Fairweather range culminating in the wedge-shaped peak of Mount Fairweather
(15,300').

The ~ational Park Service states that they are implementing a program ained
at minimizing the disturbance of humpback whales, an endangered specie5, and
which have been known to feed in Glacier Bay. Thus the number of powered
vessels entering the Park in the period from June 1 to August 31 i5 limited.
Pleasure boats are controlled by entry permits so as to ensure that no more
than 25 vessels are in the Bay at any one time. No ves seI can enter the Park,
even to proceed to Bartlett Cave, ... ithout a permit or permission given by
telephone or VHF in lieu of a permit. Thus, if one is early or just arriving
in the area one must find other anchorage while waiting.

Applications far permits should be addressed to: The Superintendent,

Glacier Bay National Park, Gustavus, Alaska 99826. One may get permission to
enter by phoning 907-697-2268 or by VHF radio on Channel 16 to K~~-20 at
Bartlett Cove when within VHF range. Since applications are not accepted
earlier than 60 days before the entry date requested vesse1s travelling from
distant ports are adversely affected. No permits are needed for visits
concluding be fare June 1 or be~inning after August 31. The most heavily booked
period is July 4 to 15, the ti~e when many boats coming up from the south are
in the area in addition to loc~l vessels enjoying summer vacations.

The application requires the following information: the boat's name and
number, skipper's name, address, phone number, the number of people on board, a
description of the boat, the proposed date of entry (first, second, and third
choices), and the duration of one's visi t (a maximum of 7 days is aIlo~ed).
Once in the Park one can ask far an extension of up to 7 days provided that
unused permits are available. After receiving a permit, one is required to
confirm the permit just before entry by calling the Park Office by teIephone on
VHF ~ithin 48 hours of the scheduled entry (no later than lO a.m. on the day of

Io\L , ...... &t.

10,7'1..'
,

Not IO be used lor nalligation

GLACIER BAY

NATIONAL PARK

I.
POIf\t

I
PACIFIC

J o~
,'- tJ~
EAN
.30' /2.D'
 160

entry). Note that this fixes your date of entry -- if one is either too early
or too late one is baek to square one and has lost any benefit of early appli-
cation. Entry occurs when one crosses the line between Point Gustavus and
Point Carolus.

Other regulations appIy to one's vessel in the park, and a pamphlet out-
lining them is sent with any communication from the Park Service. Briefly, one
is required to stay more than 1/4 mile from a whale, and to travel mid-channel
courses under lO knots in designated areas (presentIy from the entranee to
Strawberry Islands and/or Bartlett Cave).

---- -::;::::::::--
c.. ,." ------
T c 'f
.: ; ,.. <.-.<
. ; T 0:. ... ,.,. "
B-., ÀIo\c:o", ~ - - -
~--- _.
P"t ':::'...,sto.oJvc
~?'"
E toJ"T1!.. A.o.l C E. To C:LA.'::: l E. e. !}; .... Fl2.al'1 5, d,st"".,t ~t 2 "", I .. ~.

BARTLETT CaVE

Located on the east side of the bay and 4 miles from the entrance, this
cove is the main Park Serviee Ranger Office and Entry Station. A large lodge
is located here. The Park Service maintains a pier, small craft fIoats. and a
fuel float. Vessels over 30 feet must anchor aut and may use the floats on a
first come -- first serve basis for not more than 8 hours in every 48 hours.
Anchorage may be taken in the quadrant north to northeast of the pier in about
7 fathoms. Tour boats dock at the pier so allow for their passage. A seaplane
landing area marked by seasonal buoys, is northeast of the pier and anchoring
is prohibited there. Dinghies and skiffs can be moored at the rear of the
floats. Water i5 available at the floats but is 50 highly treated as to be
almost unsuitable to drink. Although no supplies are aVlilable there is a
garbage disposal station which is most useful since ther~ is no other refuse
collection depot in the park and it should not be left else~here in the park.

The Park Rangers provide information as to anchorages, ice conditions,

regu1ations. etc. Not alI area5 are open to traffico Far example, Marble
Islands are closed to foot traffic because of the sea birds. Other areas
someti~es have restrietions related to bears.

Strong rips and tidai current5 oecur in the Narrows approaching Strawberry
Island. One may take either channel past ~illoughby Island, but the current
comes down both sides. Above Wil10ughby less current is evident.

Under certain conditions in sumrner. outf1ow winds of great velocity paur

out the inlets that lead from the mountain and glacier massifs on the west.
They ~hip up steep waves for varying distances downwind aeross Glacier Bay.
Such ~inds scream aut of Berg Bay, Geikie Inlet, Hugh ~iller Inlet, and Reid
Inlet. These winds cao make entering these inlets very difficult, and the
anchorages in or near them dangerous. Keep this in mind ~hen using these
inlets. Fog and mist are frequent in the colder parts of the Bay in late sum-
mero \rieather forecasts are8iven on VHF Ch. 16 at 10 a.m. by the Park Service.
 161

...... '. ~ '.

BARTLETT :"
.... ..
GLACIE~8'AY!
I /.t I
. "

I
c. II?
'~ ,

Not to be used for na\ligation

Wate.... t ,,~"""'_.,,_ doci..

..
1000' o
I
~4 Y,.-,
App ....DJC. 5c..:Lle. 11\, *" 4od. .feac .

One methad ta explare Glacier Bay is to mave aut of Bartlett Cave as 500n
as practicable to an advance base ancharage in either armo Depending on the
weather these bases allow far exploration and return from the ice-filled arms
where passage may be slow and sometimes difficult and stressful. Blue Mouse
Cov.,is • JOCMl" be. . for .l',frr C,\nd John Hopkins Inlets, . . . ith Reid Inlet a further
adv8rite Nae to use in goOcl weather. North and South Sandy CO"•• catl be used
similui,:'lòt;J!tiz Itll~t.

Other anchorages in the Bay, with their o. . . n attractions include the

f0110 ..... ing:
Berg Bay (care is needed because nf the many rocks in the entrance;
anchor on the north side of the west arm), Willoughby Island (north end), Shag
Cave (in Geikie Inlet), and Sebree Cove (bet . . . een T~'~~lit Point and the
southern part of Sebree Island).

Pe~" - Mt.. PU"OIl" M.. , C"'II(~ Me. a~rlkA

f..Ie.:.qht - 10,7'2.&' 1'2.. 72 S' 10.000'

~ ...... ;les 45 ........ ,c~
.Di~t.a~ -
 162

BLUE MOUSE COVE

This is an excellent base anchorage for exploring the northwestern arms of
Glacier Bay. At the end of Gilbert Peninsula and 29 miles from Bartlett Cave
it is a well protected cove. Anchorage can be taken on two 8-fathom patches on
the south and southwestern sides of the cove. A smaller but shallower anchor-
rage is in a niche on the north side.

The west side of the cove looks out aver Hugh Miller Inlet to a truly
beautiful mountain scene. Winds can blow down the peaks and inlets behind the
cove, but it provides better protection than any other nearby anchorage.

Ice is not a concern in Blue Mouse Cove though an occasionaI berg may
ground on the 5hoals near the entrance. Access to the glaciers in John Hopkins
and Tarr Inlets depends on the time of year and on the amount of glaciai calv-
ing which has occurred. John Hopkins Glacier has tended to be active recentIy,
so that smalI vessels rarely get further than Lamplugh Glacier. Grand Pacific
and Margerie Glaciers in Tarr Inlet have tended to be easier to approach.
However. year to year conditions differ so greatly that one mU5t take things as
they come.

REID INLET

This advanced base has its own tidewater glacier, and anchoring here
gives one a very speciaI feeling. However this should only be considered as a
settled, fair weather anchorage. Note the remark on outflow winds made
earlier. There i5 a shallow bar across the entrance. A suitable anchorage
maybe taken on the west side tucked in behind the drying area and the island.

atLw.

REID INLET

GLACIER BAY
~ ~~
~&..Al&. ~.""'. ~ .f.&f".
 ~-------------------

---
------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------- -----------

~c.h ...... ~iLb-t" V4!!""; ....SulA.

ApPROA.CHIIo.JG f>LUE MOU5E COVE FROM l'J~W, dis.tant o.bout Z W\1;le:..
I I
I I
Oc.c.o.sio t'\A l lc~~$
low LA~cl, 1
Shrl.lb..s t:, t~ • .s I

1>c)'~ I4,Ueo" .,....((

"I :
..
Cklvf'6'ti.u If'\~t5
\. t
\\1 ~
~
'.' , -----"'"
~.
13

-.. . . .
---
.:t.. q
.!I
/1
l'
\',1~I
I

MOUSE COVE

GLACIER BAY
~Ò~,
~ Q. D't, • 00, '''-_ 1000' O
b\==~-=~I====
~
_____ ):z.., ...
I====_____I

"- I
"- ~-----~ Appro,K. ~Ga.l ... H."'. (~feet)
NOl la be used lor navigation

-,
 164

An alternate anchorage on the other side has been mentioned in other publica-
tions but it was observed that the movement of ice tended to be greater in that
loeation when it was visited in 1985.

As the ice in the inlet is usually not heavy, one can take a vessel to
within 1/2 to l mile of the glacier. But it is easy to land on the shores of
the inlet near the entrance anchorage and hike aver an easy trail to the face
of the glacier. The rumbling, creaking sounds give evidence of the movement of
the glaeier, thus eaution should be exercised near the g~acier's face as
immense slabs of ice may break away (calve) with little or no warning.

NORTH SANDY COVE

This anchorage provides a base for exploring Muir Inlet, and lies about 20
miles from Bartiett Cove. It is a favorite anchorage far yachts as well as the
commerciaI fishermen who work Park waters.

The cove ean be approached from the northwest via either channel past the
sides of Puffin Island. The best anchorages are along the southern shores.
No-see-ums are prevalent here, and they ean be annoying if one is anchored
elose to the shore.

It is about 24 miles up Muir Iniet to Muir Glacier. There is no other

anchorage as suitable as this eove on this side of the Park. Adams Inlet has
strong tidal currents at the entrance whieh is strewn with rocks. The Park
maintains a Ranger Station with a boat at Goose Cove, but there is no pIace to
anchor.

Though there are fewer glaeiers along Muir Inlet it i5 an exceptionally

interesting and revealing journey. The rapid retreat of Muir Glacier over the
last few decades has exposed the whole speetrum of development of glaciated
land. Near North Sandy Cave the steep mountainsides are covered with timber
and other vegetation. But as one proceeds closer to the glaciers the terrain
beeomes steeper and more barren. Proceeding on from Riggs and McBride Glaciers
(which can be easily reached), the land is raw and stark. Glacial streams and
moraines mark the sides. Icebergs become prevalent far Muir Glacier is active
and calves frequently.

The upper reaches of Muir Inlet are a favorite drea for seals at the time
the pups are to be born. In early July many new-born pups are to be seen
resting on the iee floes while their mothers protect them. Do not approach
them elosely as they are easily disturbed -- the young pups need to rest
peaeefully at this stage to ensure their survival.

An additional attraction of this area is that the eruise ships do not come
up this narrow, often ice-clogged inlet. The ice pack will determine whether or
not the face of Muir Glacier is accessible. This area is favored by campers
and kayakers who often camp on the flat area near McBride Glacier.
 -=------------------------------ -
------------~----

f'J:20M. NW J dist4t1t tlbo\Jt :5 t\4.ile5.

I

.r- NORTH SANDY COVE

r·.-/
~ ... GLACIER BAY
Not to be used for naltigation

_°...'===-___~o===
°;..'....
ICJO.;.;. __ ~,--
ÀppYOJ(. SUlle. ""-.N. ~ fu.-)
.. 1

bea."'$ .S~e", ...

OCGcll $ 'IO t1Clf "t.
S&1d" ,~.
~
 166

ELFIN CaVE
The small village of Elfin Cove lies in a beautiful setting on the south
si de of Cross Sound and it is well worth visiting if one has Giacier Bay on
one's itinerary. But though it is close, one must go through either North or
South Inian Pass to leave Icy Straìt for Cross Sound. The raute through Narth
Inian Pass is longer but it has less current than South Inian Passo A good
anchorage, Inian Cove, is on the north side of the Inian Islands. Anchor in
the wide end of the cove, where a mooring buoy and dolphins are in pIace. A
prominent light, North Inian Pass Light, is on the northwest poìnt of the next
small island to t~e west.

$outh Inian Pass is the shorter and more attractive route to Elfin Cove.
It should be traversed near slack, for the current can be strong (appraaching 9
knots on the ebb), and when a westerly wind opposes the ebb severe tidai rips
and steep waves and swirls occur at the ~estern end of the passo At times this
may make the passage extremely difficult.

Point Lavinia is marked by a light and is the southerly paint af the

western entrance to South Inian Passo Elfin Cave is in a small inlet in the
north shore of the Inian Peninsula south of Point lavinia. A large island,
with a couple of smaller ones nearby, lies at the entrance to the cove. One
can pass on either side of the large is1and. The eastern entrance leads
directly into the outer harbor of Elfin Cave. This is where most transient
vessels lie. Rafting may be necessary, since the float is on1y 200 feet long,
though vesse1s can moor on either side. A seaplane landing is at the tip. A
long wharf connects the float to the share. No facilities, except water,are
available.

Another dock is to the west, behind the large island, and fuel may be
obtained here. Fish buyers transact business at this dock. Beyond this float
a route via a narrow dredged channel (the Gut) leads into the inner harbor.
Most of the fishing vessels berth here. The channel should be entered at or
near high water as it is only 40 feet wide and has a controlling depth of 8
feet. Markers indicate the route.

The village of Elfin Cove Is clustered around the edge of the harbors.
Most of the houses, the Post Office, the general stare, and the laundry are
close to the boardwalk which is built up along the steep, rocky edges of the
cove. Some vacation homes are adding to the structures around the boardwalk.
The permanent summer population is about 30, increased due to fishing boats
based here, and with ather transient visitors. However, in winter the cave
falls back to a quieter life and less than a dozen or so people remain.

Sitting at the outer end of the dock and looking across ta Brady Glacier
beneath the talI peaks of Glacier Bay the lure that takes many people north
seems alI too clear.
 ApPROA.C~I~G f.LFI'" CovE. -FI<OM ~
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NOI IO be used for navigation

ELFIN COVE

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 168

PELICA~, LISIANSKI INLET A~D LISIANSKI STRAIT

The open Pacific Ocean lies beyond Cape Spencer and Cape Bingham at the
entrance to Cross Sound. One can avoid the direct open sea route by passing to
the south of George Island and north of Three Hill Island to reach the entrance
to Lisianski Inlet. This 21-mile long inlet extends southeasterly and is lined
by pretty snow-covered peaks. The first 6 miles lie bet~een t~o very large
islands -- Chichagof Island 00 the east and Yakobi Island 00 the west.

The 5mall port of Pelican lie5 about Il mile5 inside Li5ianski Inlet, on
the northern shore. It i5 mainly a fishing town and in season hums with
activity. Public floats operated by the city are in the center, north of the
Alaska Ferry dock. A generaI stare, post office, and laundromat are along the
boardwalk near the fuel dock. Rosies Bar 15 the attraction in the evenings.

Lisianski Strait enters Lisianski Inlet about 4.5 miles north~est of

Pelican (6.5 miles from the entrance). Miner Island 11es off the northern
point. It i5 ~ooded and surrounded by kelp. A narro~ passage separate5 the
north point of Miner Island from Yakobi Island, but it 5hould not be attempted.

Southeast of Miner 151and, and about a mile south i5 Junction Island,

small. wooded, and with a quick fla5hing light. Between Miner and Junction
Island (closer to the latter) there are rocky patches with only a few feet of
water over them. For vessels that are not going to Pelican but are turning
into Lisianski Strait the turn can be made staying about 1,000 feet off of
Miner Island. There are tidal rips and swirls here, for the currents coming
down Lisianski Inlet meet those coming through Lisianski Strait.

Almost as soon as one passes Miner Island the Strait begins to narrow.
About a mile from the junction the channel passes between Yakobi Island and a
shoal area with two 5mall islands, marked by a flashing red light at its
southern end. Just beyond a daybeacon marks a shoal near a 5mall float and the
buildings of a nickel exploration camp at Bohemia Creek. Four miles further on
the opening to Stag Bay i5 passed.

The opening to the ocean is encumbered with rocks on both sides, making the
actual channel narrower than the opening appears. On the south side is Esther
Island which has a flashing red light with a red triangular day mark. A course
can be laid passing between the rocky patches at the entrance and south of the
seasonal belI buoy off Star Rock. Swell, surge, and breaking waves may be
encountered depending on the external sea conditions. Sea otters are well
established·bere,and may be ~E'en in the Strait or around the entrance.

~-_.----------
 Q IO'

PELICAN

LISIANSKI INLET
Cape

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 170

LISIANSKI STRAIT TO KHAZ BAY

The west coast of Chichagof Island 1s full of interest and speetacular

seenery. From Star Roek belI buoy set a eourse to elear Poreupin~ Roek (a
prominent, bare, offshore rock 3 miles south). In go od weather Ilas Bay to the
east can be entered and a route threaded carefully into Porcupine Bay, where
one can anchor in 8 fathoms, mud. From this anchorage a vis1t ean be made to
the hot springs at White Sulp.hur Springs, first by boat to the west arm of
Bertha Bay about a mile south, then aver a half mile traii to the two buiIdings
at the springs. Bertha Bay is full of rocks. Use US chart 17321 when entering.

From Porcupine Rock a course can be taken for 6 miles to enter Imperiai
Passage between Hill and Hogan Islands. Though there are many rocks and
islands off the points on each side, the passage is wide and leads into the
expanse of Portlock Harbor. South Passage is an equally good entrance.

Within Portlock Harbor the effeet of the swell and wind are not felt, and
an inner route can be threaded through Surveyor and Ogden Passages. Didr1ckson
Bay, on the east side of Portlock Harbor, has anehorage toward the head of the
bay in sight of the waterfall in about lO f~thoms, soft mud. The bay shoals
for some distance before the waterfall.

A more protected anchorage can be taken in Kimshan Cove at the junction of

Surveyor and Ogden Passages'(just before reaching the #3 green day beacon near
Fitz Island). Enter in the middle of the opening to the cove, taking care to
avoid the crab traps that are scattered about. Anchor on the east side. On
the southern shore there are the pilings and ruins of a wharf as well as
buildings belonging to a gold-mining venture on Dooth Mountain.

Leaving Kimshan Cove be careful to pass at Ieast 300 feet away from the
green day bea con near Fitz Island, to avoid the reef which extends south of the
marker. Ogden Passage leads behind a screen of islands towards Smooth Channel,
which is the best outlet to the sea through Khaz Bay.

Entry to the anchorages in Klag Bay is marked by a day beacon and an unlit
range leading roughly northwesterly into The Gate. Use US Charts 17321 and
17322 when navigating in this area. From The Gate the route passes through the
scattered rocks of Elbow Passage, then past the east side of Klag Island to the
head of Klag Bay. Anchorage can be found anywhere in the bay, or off the
abandoned mining town of Chichagof near the head. The mine is kept active and
work sometimes proceeds. Enter Klag Bay just at or past low water slack when
the many rocks can be clearly seen, and the currents are reduced.

Guide Rocks, which are bare and noticeable, and a lighted buoy mark the
exit from Smooth Channel leading to~ards Khaz Breakers and the open sea. A
lighted whistie buoy marks Khaz Breakers, but in almost any swell breakers can
be seen over the rocks. There are many rocks and breake~s but as long as the
buoys and Khaz Breakers are identified the route passes through deep, clear
water. This is no pIace to attempt to enter or Ieave in bad weather or fog.

There are other anchorages along Sloeum Arm in ~aterfal1 Cave or in Ford
Arm at Elf Cove, which are worth visiting if time permits. Do not take the
short-cut sometimes used by loeal baats through Piehle Passage elose westerly
of Khaz Point for it is very complicated and has many rocks.
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WEST COAST

CHICHAGOFF ISLAND

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 172

PERIL STRAIT AND THE APPROACH TO SITKA

The usual approach to Sitka is through Neva and Olga Straits. They are
entered from the north either via the offshore route into Salisbury Sound, or
via PeriI Strait from the inside waters of South East Alaska. Salisbury Strait
is apen to the acean on the west, while PeriI Strait and Neva Strait lie on the
western end of the sound. Thus, the straits are slightIy protected while the
sound is open to the prevailing wind and sea conditions.

The outer route leads south from Khaz Ba)' into Salisbury Sound. Make
certain that the course is clear of the many rocks that lie off the coast,
where the swell breaks heavily to warn of danger. One such danger is 01ga Rock
which lies about l 1/4 miles west of Klokachef Island. Once past DIga Rock and
Klokachef Island the course can be altered to enter the sound. There are two
anchorages that can be useful while waiting to enter PeriI Strait.
Kalinin Bay is on the south side of Salisbury Sound and indents the north
shore of Kruzof Island. The entrance is wide at first -- the west si de should
be favored to avoid the rocks off Sinitsin Island. The inlet narrows and bends
and a mid-channel course should be followed from the bendo Rocks lie off the
shores at the narrowest part of the bay but the opening is sufficiently Iarge
for small vessels. At half tide or Iess the rocks are visible but a float marks
a submerged rock on the west side. A good anchorage is at the head of the bay.

Sukoi Inlet, at the entrance to Neva Strait, provides another anchorage,

though one must go in about 3 miles. This inlet is actually a narrow strait
between Kruzoff and Partofshikof Islands. The head of the inlet is shoal and
very narrow. The sketch shows the position of the anchorage well out past the
shoal area at the outlet of the smaii creek.

PeriI Strait is the most frequented route to and from the inside waters and
Sitka. It is about 39 miles from the entrance off Chatham Strait to Kakul
Narrows and Salisbury Sound. The frequent twists in the channel and strong
currents make it essentiai that proper navigational charts are used. Charts
Nos. 17323 and 17324 cover PeriI Strait, Neva, and Olga Straits for the raute
into Sitka. This passage is straightforward except for the short section at
Whitestone Narrows where a range is in pIace to guide one through the dredged
channel. Many wel1 placed lights and markers lead past Starrigaran Bay (where
the ferry terminaI is Iocated), Sitka Rocks, and on to Sitka.
For an easterly passage through PeriI Strait enter Kakul Narrows slightly
before low water slack to arrive at Sergius Narrows (about 3 1/2 mi1es a10ng)
just at or before slack water. Passage through the narrows is then simple
except for heavy traffic -- therefore good judgement and a sharp lookout are
essential. If one does not have t~e current tab1es, the ti de turns from south
to north about 1 3/4 hours before low water at Sitka, and from north to south
about 2 hours before high water at Sitka. Though Kakul Narrows is affected by
tidai swirls it is easier to pass than Sergius Sarraws.

Anchorages on the east side of Sergius Narrows can be found at Deep Bay,
and a less suitable one in Bear Bay. Enter Deep Bay between the green day mark
on Grass Top Rock and a big island northeast of it, keeping closer to Big
Island. Thereafter use mid-channe1 and anchor about a mi1e past the entry
marker, staying weI1 clear of the shoal area that fi11s the head of the bay.
 HS. NEAR KAKUL & SERGIUS NARROWS

SALISBURY SOUND & PERIL STRAIT

9 , ;

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NOI tO be used for navigation

KR..UZO
····1 5 L A,N D
 174

SITKA

This is a great pIace to V1Slt. Sitka has a natural beauty of location, a

historic background, friendly people, and the best gift and specialty shops in
the South East. It is no accident that the cruise ships have discovered Sitka.

Sitka can be approached from the north as described, or from offshore via
Sitka Sound, between Biorka Island and Cape Edgecumbe. The cape is easily
recognized, being a cliff of black lava 100 feet high, ~ith the prominent
landmark of Mount Edgecumbe behind it. This 3271-foot volcanic mountain can be
seen both from seaward and from Sitka. Its isolated position, crater-formed
flat top, conical shape, and snow-streaked gullies make it a good landmark.

There are faur small boat harbors in Sitka, but transient berths are
available mainly in the two harbors north of the Q'Connell bridge (crosses from
Sitka to Japonski Island). These are Thomsen Harbor (the first one passed on
entry) and the City ASB Harbor (apposite the government docks). The other two
small craft harbors are at Sealing Cove dnd Crescent Harbor, both on the south
side of Sitka. C}. . .~e at the bridge is 52 feet.

The harbormaster controls alI of the harbors, and has offices at both the
Thomsen and ANB Harbors. He can be called on VHF Channel 16. Though it is
primariIy used by commerciaI vessels the City A~B floats are recommended since
they are closest to the downtown area. A small fee is charged. Check with the
harbormaster to see i i any vessels are out fishing so that use can be made of
their berth5. Thomsen Boat Harbor i5 only a short walk further north, and many
transient boats find moorage here. One can moor to the floating breakwater
free of charge (use a dinghy to come ashore). A cafe, coin-operated laundromat
and shower are at the head of the dock, while a supermarket is a few blocks
further ono Some transient berths are available at Sealing Cove Harbor, but
this is not the case at Crescent Harbor. Fuel is available at the Chevron
station near the bridge and at the Texaco dock near Thomsen Harbor.

This city offers many interesting things to see and do -- alI within easy
walking distance. Tlingit artifacts and other Alaskan Indian, Eskimo, and
Aleut items can be seen at the Sheldon Jackson ~useum as ~ell as at the Visitor
Center at the Sitka ~ational Historic Park. At the latter there is a great
collection of totem poles arranged along a lovely ~alk ~hich leads :0 the site
of the battle between the Tlingit and Russians. The Russian 0ccupation period
is featured in St. ~ichael's Cathedral, the Russian Bishop's House, the Russian
cemetery, Castle Hill, and the lsabel Miller Museum in the Centennial Building.
Today's arts and crafts are well represented in the shops, featuring both
native and Russian influences as well as modern artists: thus making this a
fascinating pIace to explore. In June there is a summer chamber music festival
and the AlI-Alaska Logging Championships, the conjunction well describing Sitka

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 SITKA

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 176

SECTION 8

Sitka 10 Barrier Islands to Prince Rupert

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 178

TENAKEE SPRINGS

This popular little village lies on the north shore of Tenakee Inlet,
which enters the east si de of Chichagof Island off Chatham Strait. It serves as
a vacation home area for many of Juneau's residents, but it is equally attrac-
tive for visiting yachtsmen because of its hot springs. The State ferry dock
is at the village where fuel is available. The State-maintained small craft
basin is about 1/2 mile east of the village. A grassy track meanders along the
shore, dotted with cabins along the way. No vehicles are allowed except for
the oil and fuel trucks.

Astore, cafe, and tavern are in the village. Most importantly, the green
concrete bath house is the center of Tenakee. Baths were free in 1985 -- hours
are posted for separate bathing of the sexes. Remove any silver jewelry before
entering the baths as there is sulfur in the water.

Anchorages can be found in Tenakee Inlet, in erab, Lang, and Seal Bays.

ANGOON

Angoon lies on the east side of Chatham Strait, about 20 miles south of
Tenakee Inlet, and almost directly across from the exit of PeriI Strait into
Chatham Strait. This is a Tlinglit village, with a store, some facilities, and
it is the only permanent settlement in the wilderness of Admiralty Island. The
village is on the narrow section of a peninsula behind which Kootznahoo Inlet
enters Admiralty Island. Kootznahoo means, "Fortress of the Bears," a most
appropriate name since Admiralty Island has the highest brown bear population
of the South East, as well as the greatest number of bald eagles.

A long pier extends into Chatham Strait, and small craft can dock here to
enquire about berths from the harbormaster. Fuel and water are available.

The State-built, village-operated small craft floats are inside Kootznahoo

Inlet in Favorite Bay. As the current is swift, and the passage is narrow, get
loeal adviee and information before entering at slack ~ater iE you want to stay
at the sma11 craft area. It is about l mile south of the main vil1age. The
State ferry doeks are at Killisnoo Harbor, about 3 miles south of Angoon,
facing Chatham Strait.

EA.GLE.
OF CIi./U.I<fON/AL STlfrF'

(71i"',U)
 TENAKEE SPRINGS

ANGOON
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CHATHAM STRA'T
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 180

ANCHORAGES NORTH OF WARM SPRINGS BAY

After passing out of PeriI Strait into Chatham Strait there is a truly
spectacular stretch of coast which can be follo~ed south~ard along the west
coast of Baranof Island. Several interesting anchorages can be found here.

The coast of Catherine Island must be passed for several miles before the
first larse bay opens. This is Kelp Bay, which divides into three long arms
and a large basin behind Pond Island. As these arms are deep there a're no
recommended anchorages here, except possibly in Echo Cove at the southern tip
of Catherine Island.

Cosrnos Cove is about 2 miles south of Kelp Bay. One Iarge and two smaii
islands lie off the northern point of the cove and they are connected to it by
shoals. Proceed well clear of their southern shares and enter the cove in
mid-channel. Anchor about a half mile in where there is good shelter, 4 to 6
fathoms, mud. The head and sides are shoal for some distance.

Kasoyku Bay is the next large opening. At the southern end is a magnifi-
cent waterfall that is visible from severa l miles away. This is Kasnyku
Waterfall. Kasnyku Bay appesrs too open far shelter though there are several
islands in it. At its western end are three islands and a Fish and Game Salmon
Hatchery. A smalI anchorage cao be explored above the northwest of the three
islands. Here one cao see another spectacular ~aterfall -- Hidden Falls. The
ruins of ao old lumber operation are found here.

An especially intriguing anchorage can be found in the little reversed

L-shaped cove south of Round Island, called ElI Cave. See US chart 17337.
This Iittle beauty spot is well pratected, and when approaching it yet another
waterfall will be seen when approximately due east of it. ElI Cove and Round
Island can also be identified by the enormous semi-spherical bowl-1ike scoop in
the rock face. The contorted rock faces with deepIy water-cut gorges make
traveI along this coast most interesting. The peaks are snow-capped year
round.

Waterfall Cave, at Kasnyku Falls itself appears too open and unprotected to
be useful as an anchorage. If the southeast corner, the most protected part is
used, the current from the waterfall would make it less than satisfactory.

About 4 m;les further south is a large bay having severa l islands and arms
Takatz Bay. Entry 1S made around Point Turbot into the northern armo Stay
in mid-channel till past the outer rocks off the south point then favor the
south side to pass the mid-channel rocks. The best anchorage is past the
narrows then into the inner basino Do not go too far towards the head , which
is shoal. Fish hatcheries may be Iocated in this bay. It is only a few miles
further on to Warm Springs Bay and Baranof Springs -- Takatz Bay could well be
passed by.
 lGaM.ylw FiaI/s

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 182

BARANOF, WARM SPRINGS BAY

A few miles south of Takatz Bay the steep slopes of the snow-capped
mountains open to form the shores of Warm Springs Bay. A light is located 00
the southern point of the bay. Another identifying factor is the microwave
reflector seen on the crest of the northern ridge.

A rock surrounded by kelp lies in the middle of tre entrance. Pass on the
southern side of it in deep water, and proceed into the bay. The steep, green,
forested slopes, the prominent white cascade at the head of the bay, the roofs
of the few houses, and steam (sometimes trapped in the southern bights) give
this pIace a special mood.

At the head of the bay the public floats lie east of a pier near the
waterfall. Moorage can be taken on both sides of the 250-foot float, but
rafting may well be necessary. The heavy current passing in front of the float
should be taken into account when approaching the float. The current affects
the outer vessels of a raft more noticeably, so be certain that alI vessels are
well tied to the dock as we11 as to each other. It will be wise to put out
extra lines to the dock. No fuel or electricity is at the dock, only water.
However, good fishing can be had right off the ends of the dock.

The small community of Baranof 1ies along the shore towards the waterfail.
A small generaI store is at the end of the dock. Arrangements can be made at
the store to use the hot mineraI springs baths. A fee is charged which covers
a no-time-limit soak in stock troughs through which hot water flows directly
from the springs. The temperature can be regulated by adding cold water from a
tBp. This unisex bath house has several "bathrooms."

A few necessities can be obtained at the generaI store which also includes
a book exchange. The friendly storekeeper will probably invite one to take the
pretty quarter-mi1e waIk to overlook the falls and a further quarter-mile to
reach the lake. One may even be offered the use of 5ma1l boats at the lake far
fishing or exploration, It is worth the short walk to enjoy the beauty.

If space 1s unavailable at the wharf, one can anchor in the bay. The
current and roar of the falls is constant. Sometimes the cruise vessel,
Majestic Explorer, comes in at night (alI 1ìt up) for a quick view of the fa1ls
this is a cruise ship exploration trip!

From Warm Springs Bay one can go south along Chatham Strait towards Port
Armstrong and Cape Decision, cross to Tebenkof Bay or turn at Point Gardner on
Admiralty Island (7 miles southeast) to go up Frederick Sound. There is a
light on the westernmost of two rocks ofi Point Gardner. Pass between this
light and a lighted buoy marking the rocky ~hoals around Yasha Island. Heavy
tidal rips occur in this neighborhood which is frequented by humpback whales.

On the eastern side af Point Gardner i5 Surprise Harbor; not a go od anchor-

rage but useful if strong wind5 are found in Chatham Strait. However, the next
long cove 1s Murder Cave (which got its name when a murder was witnessed here).
It is best to enter at low water when the rocky hazards show clearly. Anchor-
age i5 fair off the ruins of an abandoned cannery about l mile into the cove.
 A,PPROA.CH l "'Go ~ARM S P~INC;5 e,A.'f F ROM N N W, di:.tGnt .:abou-t '_;(c..
BARANOF

WARM SPRINGS BAY

CHATHAM STRAIT
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 184

PORT ALEXANDER
With the closing of Keku Stait a vessel proceeding from Chatham Strait to
Sumner Strait has two choices. One is to go through Frederiek Sound then down
Wrangell Narrows, and on exiting turn westward into Sumner Strait. The other
is to go down Chatham Strait and round Cape Deeision into the entranee to
Sumner Strait. If the latter route is chosen then Port Alexander is a suitable
anchorage to await the best time to round Cape Decision. This harbor lies
about 5 miles north of Cape Ommaney'at the southern tip of Baranof Island. The
5mall community is oriented toward fishing.

Two islands surrounded by shoals lie ENE of the entrance. Pass well south
of them to approach from a little south of the lighthouse on the point. The
entrance channel is 400 to 500 feet wide. It lies between the lighthouse and a
red buoy (N2) marking a shoal having rocks awash. A lighted range of 334
degrees on two markers inside the harbor leads through the channel. A speed
limit of 3 miles per hour is set far the harbar.

When well inside the entrance turn northward up the harbar. Shoals accur
well out from each side so stay roughly mid-channel. The main public floats
are on the east side about 1/2 mile into the harbor -- just north of a large
wharf. The float is 450 feet long and vessels can moor on either side, 3
fathoms, open mooring. Rafting may be necessary. Another public float is in
the inner harbor about 1,500 feet further up the harbor, but the narrow ehannel
is no longer maintained and it is advisable to get Iaea 1 advice if one plans on
using it.
Across Chatham Strait there are severa 1 good anchorages in the Bay of
Pillars and in Tebenkoff Bay on Kuiu Is1and. These could be used as alterna-
tive anchorages. In these more remote anchorages there is a good chance that
brown bear can be seen -- shore excursions should be undertaken with care.

Cape Decision lies about 13 miles southeast across Chatham Strait. It is a

low, bare, rocky point, with a square, white lighthouse at the tipo Deeision
Passage, through which one must pass into Sumner Strait, is 1 mile wide and
lies between the Cape and a string of islands -- Spanish Islands. In making
the passage stay we11 off Cape Decision before turning.

Strong tidal rips and currents can be encauntered in the area off Cape
Decision and the stronger winds and weather of the open ocean can be felt here.
Fog often occurs in summer. Thus, it is best to wait for good, settled weather
before attempting to round Cape Decision.
More adventurous sailors can take the longer route around Coronation Island
which is south of Cape Decision. This will take the ves seI past Helm Point, a
unique and conspicuous pIace. It is a f1at tableland ending in sheer cliffs
over 1.000 feet high. Thousands of seabirds nest here. With possibilities of
bad weather and fog this trip should not be 1ightly undertaken.

From Cape Decision it is about lO miles northeasterly to Shakan Bay and the
entry through Shakan Strait to El Capitan Passage.
 t
1"0 1Yta.,."" SpY"i~~ &)"

+ ~ 6a~A""Qç'....L-

-
."".----
I

PORT ALEXANDER

BARANOF ISLAND

+ I1.M.

Not to be used for navig8tion

t l~

400' Floot

PD~"

f>AIZANOç' Is.
OLl'f:R. l-fA.ee:,D~
SIA.:,E F LOA..I.
 186

PORT PROTECfION

An alternate approach to Shakan Bay and El Capitan Passage is from the

southern end of Wrangell ~arrows by going west down Sumner Strait. Several
isolated rocks, marked by buoys, act as mileposts along the way. The chart is
the best guide. At Point Baker (the northwest tip of Prince of Wales Island),
Sumner Strait changes to a north-south orientation. Acros5 the strait to the
north is the exit Qf Keku Strait which connects Sumner Strait to Frederick
Sound, but alI navigational aids have been removed.

Point Baker is a small fi5hing community having a state-operated 8mall

craft float in the harbor, which 1s in the gap between False Island and the
northwest tip of Prince of Wales Island. Enter only from the north, between
Point Baker light (with a red and white daybeacon to the west) and Point Baker
anchorage daybeacon (on a smaller island to the east). Postal services, fuel,
water, and provisions are available. A narrow, very shallow dinghy passage
carries on behind False Island and Joe Mace Island to join Port Protection.

About 3/4 of a mile northwest of Point Baker i5 the belI buay marking Helm
Rock. The buoy is 10cated about 1/4 mile north of the rock. At time5 there
are heavy tidal rlps and swirls around the rock -- small vessels would do well
to avoid this rip. 5mall craft can pass between the rock and Paint Baker.

Port Protection i5 a large bay opening about l 1/2 miles south of Point
Baker. The same name is given to a small community in a well sheltered cove.
The southern entrance point of the port is Protection Head which is a bold
landmark visible from severa1 mi1es. Port Protection light is on a red and
white daymark on the point of an island on the north side of Wooden Wheel Cove.
Note the detached reef with a daybeacon on it about 1/2 mile south of Joe Mace
Island. Vessels can pass it on either side, giving the reef a wide berth.

Wooden Wheel Cove is boot-shaped. The toe of the boot faces southwest and
lies behind Jackson Island. In this small, well protected area are floats and
buildings. The 250-foot pub1ic float is in the southern corner, unconnected to
the shore. The southern end i5 reserved for sea planes, but vessels can moor
on either side of the remainder. There is deep ~ater a10ngside. At the
seaplane end is a small, open household mai! box that is marked "letters."

Severa 1 private floats are around the rim of the cave. The large 10g cabin
at the end of the largest float contains a small store. This a very pretty and
peacefu1 setting, especially if one has come in to avoid the slop outside in
5umner Strait. One could anchor in the cave or further down the bay of Port
Protection on the east side behind the islands. Log booms are moored there.

Many places (including Port Protectior,) were named by Captain George

Vancouver who surveyed in this area in the summer of 1793. The port itself
received its name because the "Discovery" and "Chatham" sheltered here from a
severe storm in 5umner Strait.

ilote. A,PP!lOA.CH Hl.aM I<JE..Afl.

POllOJ'T
 E.",t ...4~ 1Z,1c. .
Pc> ... t P...ote.c.t, ...... (6.:..'1)
Ap PRDACH ,,,,C; PORT PIZO'-EC:'-,O", ( V/OOO,,, WHEELCOIIE) """OM Wt-JW
.d i ~c:b'\C 4bovt I """,i.Le "

", \

PIr.oT~C.TION

NOl 10 ~ ultd lor rIiOyi9111ion

W-"C?, h.
5'-" '1.D",J

. "" '0"''''
PORT PROTECTION .,I .:>
,•
.,
~
SUMNER STRAIT 1\•

5<>Ò O
, 'io. , 11t
li.
A.PP.,..OK . 6=l. , M.._. a.o.t)
/ LA6.U~E
 188

EL CAPITAN PASSAGE
The southern part of Sumner Strait is open to the Pacific and to southerly
winds. But with good weather one can reach over from Cape Decision, or run
down from Port Protection to enter Shakan Strait on the east side of Sumner
Strait. Enter in the center of the opening for there are many rocks and islands
on each side. Then steer for the south end of the largest island (Hamilton
Island) where a daybeacon stands and enter Shakan Strait.

At the end of Shakan Strait there is an open bight to the east, where log
booms are moored. El Capitan Passage leads off to the east with its entrance
marked by a red beacon on a mid-channel rock. Anchorage can be taken a little
further north in the bight in Marble Creek, or further on in Calder Bay.

El Capitan Passage is an unheralded and fascinating part of Alaska. The

passage follows a marked, narrow channel toward5 the east which is dredged to a
controlling depth of lO feet and a minimum width of 70 feet. At Dry Pass it is
shallower -- controlling depth being 7 feet and it appears narrower than the
70-foot width shown on the chart. Chart #17387, with its enlargement of this
part of El Capitan, should be used when negotiating the passage.

Before entering the narrows trom either end calI "Securite, Securite,
Securite" on VHF Channel 16 to warn of your passage and to enquire of any
vessel going the opposi te direction. There are several wider spots where
vessels can pass each other, but if a tug and boom are in the passage it i5
best to wait till they are through. There is no room to pass in the narrows.
Currents of about l to 2 knots occur through the passage. Tidal change occurs
at about the same time as at Sitka. Passage through is best near high water.

Beyond Dry Pass the passage widens, though it is stilI relatively shallow.
Deadheads are hazards of sha110w waters which result from use of the waterway
by 10g booms. Remember to keep a sharp lookout at alI times. After turning
the bend, leave the smal! wooded island to the west. In the wider section that
follows a logging camp is located on the small peninsula on the north side.

At Aneskett Point the Passage turns southward and gradually begins to

widen. About 3 1/2 miles south of this point the opening to Devi1fish Bay is
passed. A litt1e further on, Sarheen Cave on the east, and an unnamed cave on
the west (both about 2 1/2 miles further a10ng) could possibly be used as
anchorages. El Capitan Pas5age continues southward, widening, with beautiful
vistas of low, forested hil!s on either side and many islands. Five miles from
Sarheen Cove is the sma11 island of Burnt Island which has a light on it
marking the main passage.

East of Burnt Island i5 Sarkar Cove where anchorage can be taken in about 6
fathoms, mud, near the head of the cove and off the ruins of Deweyvi1le (once a
gold-mining town). The main route continues directly south from Burnt Island,
past the daybeacon at Hub Rock, then towards Tuxekan Narrows. One can proceed
around either end of El Capitan Island to visit the small community of Tokeen
00 the western side of the island.
 ··<US&·Jos c.ha.ft 1~~&1 -r.... ""• ~,~~"st';'9
.&

f>4~:'41.' Thc c:h .. ",,,,c1 i~ d"'d9- +. A C'O ........ U'·4

deP't'" or "".(cd )( 7ofui. wi4th" a-' appedf"'l ~_
&'I.4r'P"o"'.P". l='uU ol- t;.,tU-CL+ a. b«Aut'~.

, ~

__._:·.~~~__~~__~~__~~~~__~__~~~__________~~_________~~.-____~~~i~d~~~

NOI lO be used far rnllligation

EL CAPITAN PASSAGE

PRINCE OF WALES
o, t.
ApprDzC. .s~le. 1'I.1't4.
 190

TUXEKAN NARROWS TO SAN CHRISTOVAL BAY

This "inside passage" through the waters south of El Capitan Passage

continues the very interesting and seenie route southwards. The series of
1arge and small islands sereen off this route from Sea Otter Sound and the open
sea beyond. US Charts 17403 and 17404 should be used for navigation.

Tuxekan Narrows has daybeacons on the main rock reefs. Aikens Rock is
passed on the east side, but Village Rock can be passed on either side. The
route passes about 300 feet east of the rock, keeping well away trom Kinani
Point on the Prince of Wales shore. A vessel i5 then aiming right into the
600-foot wide opening of Tuxekan Narrows. Though narrow, it is deep, and
currents are not extreme. Thus, this passage i5 preferred by most vessels.
(It i5 possible to go around the west side of Tuxekan Island into Sea Otter
Sound to join the route south through Karheen Passage.)

At the 50uthern end of Tuxekan Narrows there is a village and logging camp
at Little ~aukati Bay, but anchorage is not recommended. A little further
south on Tuxekan Island at Nichin Cove is another village with a dock and
float. Anchorage appears to be better at this loeation.

Tuxekan Passage is wide and about lO miles long. The current is not
strons, and the route is unmistakable. At Kauda Point (the southern tip of
Tuxekan Island), Tuxekan Passage, Karheen Passage, and Tonowek Narrows meet in
a large, square bay which is littered with islands and reefs. Careful exam-
ination of the chart is needed. Enter Tonowek Narrows in mid-channel leaving
the green daybeaeon to the west and the red buoy NNE of Point Swift rocky shoal
area to the east. Known locally as Little Skookumchuck, pas5age through the
narrows is usually possible sinee the eurrent reaches a maximum of 3 knots.

As one passes the first island on the we5t side within Tonowek Narrows look
well above on the shoreline. Two mortuary poles and a buriai box can be seen.
The loeation on the island in the pass and the talI and guardian-like trees
make an atmosphere that engenders respect for the per50nage buried here. Pass
by and do not disturb the quietness of this buriai spot.

From Tonowek Bay there are two routes south~ard. One may proceed aiong the
outer route into the Gulf of Esquibel, elear Curacao Reef and the rocks off St.
Philip Island to enter San Christoval Channel. This route is exposed to the
swell and above-mentioned dangers must be identified. The preferred (inner)
route stays in the channel behind Harmony Islands and the string of is1ands
that follows, then behind Culebra and St. Philip Islands before exiting north
of Blanquizal Island. Most rocks are visible except for the mid-channel reef
which is east of the north end of St. Philip Island.

At the southern end of St. Philips Island a sandy spit joins it to a small
island to the south. Middens of white sea shells can be seen here. This is
Bobs PIace, the site of an old village. Good anchorage in about 5 fathoms can
be taken in mid-channel, protected by the islands. San Christoval Channel, just
a, fe'" miles further, leads through a well buoyed pass into San Al berta Bay.
 A.~ aLtt.... "'.:afL fO&lt~ i~-bt
L"it El Ca..pì.t4l'\ Po..SS49' 4"'d.
"e-~",tet" via. ~hu", P4SSOc;,~.

JJidai"
t:..o>/e. •
Vin~c.i
IUX'EKAN·
5e:A. OTTER
ISo

... ....QO.
o·

. : ... .
:
.'
.....o
:

HECETA rs.

No! \0 be used for navig8tion

TUXEKAN PASSAGE

PRINCE OF WALES IS.

o 5 IO
0.
CUle..br'A r~. +.:
,
I "O
(')
 192

CRAIG

The northern approach to Craig is through the San Christova1. Channel into
San Alberto Bay, then southeast across the bay to the well buoyed channel
between Klawock Reef and Fish Egg Island. This channel 1eads into K1awock
Inlet. On turning sauth the town of Craig is visib1e on Craig Island which is
off the southeastern end of Fish Egg Is1and. The best guide is US Chart 17405.

Craig is a small town, mostly on the island, but connected by a causeway to

a peninsula of Prince of Wales Island. Many residents 1ive in boat-houses.
There are several wharves and structures connected with the canneries and fuel
depots. The most prominent landmarks are a brown water tank on the southeast
side of the island and a microwave tower nearby.

The public flaats where transient boats can moor are in North and South
(Shelter) Cove. These coves are on either si de of the causeway. Other docks
and floats for fishing vessels and other craft are a10ng the north waterfront.

The channel leading to Narth Cave is evident on the chart. A 300-foot main
float has two fingers at right angles. The outermost finger, 175 feet long,
has transient moorage along its north (outer) side. However, if this is filled
the harbormaster may allow the use of any temporarily unoccupied space. Report
at the dock or calI him on VHF Channel 16. The main f10at is connected to the
Craig Island shore by means of a short pier. A pathway past some old buildings
takes one to the main street of Craig. Water and power are available at the
floats. Fuel can be obtained at a fuel dock near the canneries.

Shelter Cove (the docks in South Cove) can be reached by going west around
Craig Island. then passing through the buoyed channel between Craig and Fish
Egg Reef. There are more spaces for small vessels on these newer floats. A
controlling depth of 8 feet is in the channe1 and float area. The harbormaster
controls alI berths here as we11.

The road across the causeway continues up the coast of Prince of Wales
Island to Klawock, a Tlingit village towards the head of Klawock In1et.
Klawock can a1so be reached from Craig by boat by proceeding up the inlet,
rounding Klawock Island, then through a narrow, marked channel. Public floats
with apen transient moorage are about 1/4 mile south of Klawock dock (the pier
seen first). A small wooded peninsula resembling an island, projects out
between the dock and the f1oats.

This village was the site of the first cannery in Alaska over 100 years
ago. The town is being rebuilt, and there is a magnificent collection of
totem, memorial, and mortuary poles standing in the park above the harbor.

Craig may also be entered from the south through Bucareli Bay and Ulloa
Channel. Spanish exploration in 1775 was responsible for the many Spanish
names. The mountains on the large islands are steep, though not high, and make
this a picturesque area. Logging and fishing are the main commerciaI activi-
ties in this regione Few pleasure craft from other parts of the country have
discovered this area, a fact which adds to its attraction, freedom, and space.
~WOd. ~( - - - . ~"IO\-:r .., ç;s~ ~ Is. r>cùle...a. ls. bQ.~"'!~,
ÀppItOAC.... 'NG. CR~'~ F~M w) i.e.. f.ro-.. So."", AlI~e..-h:.

....'.'
t ..
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---,,.
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......
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.... .... ~.

-. . . .'
O' • -. •

"'~"

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,
\
(SWEL'T"IEe..)
'. 6011el'\4s Is. \
. ,, \
"0'"
.
~5·28N ..____ ~~_'
,
________ _____ ~~ ~
I

CRAIG

HpRINCE OF WALES IS
BUCARELI O, ~ 1.I
.
I 13!>·1,0'W Appr"ox. SGal~ ~.~.
Not to be used for nayjgation Sur'\~y ~'1 f'oft..",.

,
/o ~., I !'l. Co"<"
APP"OAC~ (~~ CR:..A.'~ FRoop.( S) j.<!. • .ç.,O,WI. J!>oC4r-e.l': fu'l ~bO\)-t 3 ",,;/e.s
 194

BARRIER ISLANDS AND CORDOVA BAY

It is a good day's run from Craig to the Barrier Islands in Cordova Bay.
The route passes through UIIoa Channel, TIevak Narrows and Strait, and into and
across Cordova Bay. There are severai anchorages in this area.
The topography of U110a Channei -- steep hiIIsides a10ng a passage opening
into a Iarger body of water -- causes Iocai fog to be trapped within, while the
open water clears. White cottonwood fog banks at the entrances to the channels
are a clear warning of these conditions. Navigation at these times needs care,
even with the assistance of radar. Similar conditions occur in other channels.

Waterfall is an oid cannery si te on the Prince of Waies coast midway a10ng

V110a Channel. The cannery has been converted into a fishing resort, operating
mainIy during the summer. Guests are flown in from Ketchikan. Overnight
tie-up at their dock may be permitted. Some isolated piIings and an abandoned
wharf are areaI hazard when it is faggy.

Tlevak Narrows is a short, narrow but deep passage opening into Tlevak
Strait. Several islands and rocky groups occur on both sides of the narrows,
but buoys and lights, and V.S. Chart 17407 are sufficient to navigate a vessel
through. Currents are fairIy strong inside the narrows -- boils and swiris may
be experienced -- but the effect reduces rapidly with distance. Use the
passage at or near slack water unless the strength of the current is low.
Once past the narrow section between Turn Point and Block Is1and a vesse1
enters Tlevak Strait. LiveIy IsIands are passed on their western side. If
bound for Hydaburg, a principal vi11age of the Haidas, a vessel stands to the
ESE for Sukkwan Island and South Passo There are public floats at Hydaburg.
If bound for Cordova Bay stand southeasterIy down the Strait. Severa l deep
coves indent the narrow length of DalI Island, though not alI show evidence of
being good anchorages. The mountainous backbone of the 40-mile long island
shows rugged, partially wooded peaks which appear to consist of marble. Ruins
of canneries and/or logging camps are seen in some inIets.

There is a long reach across Cordova Bay. ~allace Rock, marked with a red
buoy, lies to the north of the Barrier Islands. It can be passed on either
side. Once it is identified the daymark at Guide Rocks to the ESE can be
found. When nearing Guide Rocks the position of the Narrows leading to Eureka
Channel becomes evidente A good anchorage can be found just past the Narrows
in a small cave to the south. The sketch shows the anchorage. Another
anchorage can be found behind the reefs west of the channel past the green
daymark. Severai similar anchorages could be discovered in the other passages
of the Barrier Islands, though care should be taken because of the many rocks
and reefs in the area. V.S. Chart 17433 is the best guide.

Eureka Channel Ieads southward, past Mexico Point. There are many outlying
rocks along the coast, and one should c1ear Nunez Rocks be fare attempting
either to round Cape Chacon or to sail across Dixon Entrance to Prince Rupert.
 ANCHS. IN THE BARRIER IS.

CORDOVA BAY
O~,____ ==-=.+____-===2••____-=~~

oR.DOVA

~••III

~
,
.0
.o

.~.
:i";
00' " o"
o

o-o (:
~o
:~:...

."f:
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'. #f:':;~"
'!..':

" .
;... '.
 196

ROUTES ACROSS DIXON ENTRANCE

It is necessary to stand out into Dixon Entrance when leaving Cordova Bay
or the Barrier Islands for Prince Rupert. Several route5 are available, the
choice depending on wind, wave, and weather conditions.

Going directly to Prince Rupert via Brown Passage is, harbor to harbor,
about 90 nautical miles -- of which 65 cross Dixon Entrance to Brown Passage.
In go od weather this can be a straightforward crossing, usually with quartering
seas, and for sailors a go od broad reach. Swells in Dixon Entrance are mostly
from the west and southwest. Bad weather or fog should be waited out, and the
crossing should be arranged to have daylight on the approach to Brown Passage
and Prince Rupert.

A shorter and slightly more protected route can pass Cape Chacon to cross
to Foggy Bay, about 65 miles, then 00 to Ketchikan or Prince Rupert. Shorter
distances can be found to anchorages on Duke or Annette Islands. Ryus Bay is
on the north side of Duke Islands, and it i5 an excellent, sheltered anchorage.
Tamgass Harbour on Annette Island is a150 a good anchorage. If necessary,
there are harbors and anchorages on the east side of Prince af Wales Island
which are closer and in the lee of the land.

Brundige Inlet on the north side of Dundas Island is another go od

ancharage. It may be better used on the northward raute.

.r, ('UI'\~':'3L
P.'
~.WJ
........
···r t'\ie.!
BRUNDIGE INLET

DUNDAS ISLAND
o, 1, f..",.
,

Appt'o"'. SLa.I.~ VI.oN!.

Not to be used for navigation

 \J)~ 4S"",iI••
r~
,-
I:)
,./ •""t:1d~:' kr. ..
t\
Vi4. ~llCk3i.-...Io Cha",... el
AI ":1""":'""

f'
t)
~

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~~ IJ\ ~-.y ."
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rT

j1 t.~
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~o 'f~ìI\';.ii'
~~

CkA~'"
.",'
I EoKt
J ~ ...
r :Devii' " -.. , I-
'~-:'--~ :r:~ ,-~-- ~ wut PHIl 2k~ -------~4_4(~1-,.-
...rT ,1.J.1 N ,.. .",

K - . ... M· .....

I ',,90

DlXO N
I EI'J"'~ÀNCE
"I::::i~ , to
, .....,.P,..,.
"~C:4', .... l'CJ~
-...: ......t
No'fE:+ O..,ly thos-e .reN li1hh, l'oas, a...d dA",~é",s "
~.... tht. pa~~d<JlII!.~ du<: ..i~ ~ s.howtt.
_ ~S~4_·Z.x.o-",,'tJ,----+ ~i . P...op~... I1alli9ati o Io'\dl c.ha,.t,. aV"e eue.\tl·Q.:..'_ _ _ _ __
fcy S4.(~ tr"a.IfU ilf\ "e~ WAte.n.. -I. __
.'
-o ,J
_·-t·- I
i ,,-
,.
Vepth c.o",to" ... ~ Q"'c. .{-'. -/&~··t . /
4ppr"D"i ....t •• ,ill.",-to / : "',,' ~ o I. ,o
\ 'l'''. Ife,. f.lls -
.'. ! !
H .. ca.t~

1
1,,0 St ...-a.i. t

battI<.
Not to be used for navigation

r ,o. I •• ' ,
1/ ROUTES
1,...
,
t.~ROSS DI~~N
l''' ,o 'nn
 198

APPENDIX I

CHARTS AND PUBLICATIONS

Canadian Charts and Publications

3449 Race Rocks to East Point

3450 East Point to Sands Heads
3577 Sands Heads to Ballenas Islands
3590 Ballenas IsIands to Cape LazG
359! Cape Lazo to Discovery Passage
3594 Discovery Passage, Toba Inlet and connecting channels
3595.- Chatham Point to Port Harvey
3596 Port Harvey to Queen Charlotte 5trait
3597 Pulteney Point to Egg Island
3776 Smith Sound and Approaches
3727 Cape Calvert to Goose Island including Fitz Hugh Sound
3785 Namu Harbour to Dryad Point
3720 Idoi Point to Ocean Faiis
3728 Milbanke Sound and Approaches
3734 Jorkins Point to Sarah Island
3738 Sarah Island to Swanson Bay
3739 Swanson Bay to Work Island
3740 Work Island to Point Cumming
3742 Otter Passage to McKay Reach
3772 Grenville Channel, Sainty Point tJ Baker Inlet
3773 Grenville Channel, Baker Inlet to Ogden Channel
3985 Approaches to Prince Rupert Harbour
3991 Hudson Bay Passage

One should add smaller scale chart~ af anchorages and harbors that may be
available and are deemed necessary.

B.C. Coast Pilot - Volume l: Juan de Fuca to Cape (aution

B.C. Coast Pilot - Volume 2: Cape Caution to Ste~art

List af Lights, Buoys, and Fog Signa]s - Pacific Coast

Canadian Tide and Current Tables - Volume 5: Juan de Fuca and Georgia Strait

Canadian Tide and Current Tables - Volume 6: Barklev Sound and Discovery
Passage to Dixon Entrance

A free brochure map, sho~ing the extent and coverage of the charts can be
obtained from the Canadian Hydrographic Service or any of its agents. It is
useful for delermining yaur own choice of charts far your destinations.
 199

Vnited States Charts and Publications

large scale overall route-finding charts, Loran lines of position:

1-7420- Hecate Strait to Etolin Island including Behm and Portland Canals
11360 Etolin Island to Midway Islands including Sumner Strait
11300- Stephens Passage to Cross Sound including Lynn Canal
17320 Coronation Island to Lisianski Strait

11434 Revillagigedo Channel

17430 Ketchikan Harbor
17385 Ernest Sount - Eastern Passage and Zimovia Strait
17382 Zarembo Island and Approaches
17367 Thomas, Farragut and Portage Bays
17363 Pybus Bay, Hobart and Windham Bays
17315 Gastineau Channel and Taku Inlet, Juneou Harbor
17316 Lynn Canal - Icy Strait to Point Sherman
17317 Lynn Canal - Point Sherman to Skag~ay
17302 Icy Strait and Cross Sound
H31! Glacier Bay
17303 Yakobi Island and Lisianski Inlet
17321 Cape Ed~ard to Lisianski Strait
17322 Khaz Bay, Chicagoff Island
17323 Salisbury Sound, PeriI Strait and Hoonah Sound
17324 Sitka Sound to Salisbury Sound
17338 PeriI Strait - Hoonah Sound to Chatham Strait
17337 Harbors in Chatham Strait
17378 Port Protection, Prince of wales Island
17386 Sumner Strait - Southern Part
17387 Shakan and Shipley Bays and part of El Capitan Passage
17403 Davidson Inle' ~nd Sea Otter Sound
17404 San Christoval tnonnel to Cape Lynch
17405 [110a Channel to San Christoval Channel
17407 Sorthern part of Tlevak Strait and rlloa Channel
lì~08 CentraI DalI Island and Vicinity
17431 Sorth end of Cordova Bay and Hetta lnlet
17433 Kendrick Bay to Shipwreck Poinl, Prince of ~ales Island

r.s. Coast Pilat ~0. 8: Dixon Entrance lo Cape Spencer. 1984

Tide Tables, ~est Coast, North & South America

Tidal Current Tables, Pacific Coast of \orth America and Asia

Light List, Vol. III, Pacifjc Coast and Pacific Islands

A free brochure map sho~ing the extent and coverage of charts can be
obtained from the Sational Ocean Service or through any of its agents. It 1s
useful for determining your own choice of charts to your destinations.
 200

APPENDIX II

C~~ADI~~ COAST GUARD RADIO

·Scheduled Marine Weather Braadcast Times

(Changes to schedules are advertised by Notices to Shipping)

Station Frequency rime (PSr)

fA/or VHF Channel Marine Forecast Local Weather

Victoria 21B (161. 65 .mHz) 0450, 0615, 1210 0450, 0615. 0705. 1210,
2054 kHz 1450, 1920 1450, 1815, 2005.

Vancouver 21B (161.65 mHz) 0515, 0810, 1110 as for marine forecast
2054 kHz 1410, 1510, 2010

Comox (162.55 rnHz)

2054 kHz 0635, 0920, 1240 0635, 0735, 0920, 1020,
1535, 2035 1240, 1535, 1835, 2035,
2220

Comox (162.55 rnHz) 0635, 0920, 1240 0635, 0735, 0920, 1020,
1535, 2035 1240, 1535, 1835, 2035,
2220.

Alert Bay 21B (161.65 mHz) 0605, 0720, 1120 0415, 0605, 0720, 0845.
(162.55 mHz) 2020 1120, 1505, 1820, 2020.
2054 kHz

Prince Rupert 21B (161.65 mHz) 0045, 0508, 0750 0045, 0505. 0750. 0915,
, 1040, 1350, 1940 1040, 1350, 1810, 1940,
2054 kHz
2215.

Prince Rupert Repeater Statians:

Dundas 15.
~It. GiI (Con 15.) As for Prince Rupert abave.
Klemtu

Far Queen Charlotte Islands:

Prince Rupert & Repeaters

Naden HBR. (Q.C.)
Yan Inlet (Q.C.) As far Prince Rupert above.
Kumshewa Inlet (Q.C.)
Barry Inlet

21B & 26 0110, 0440, 0935 0110, 0440, 0935, 1050

Sandspit
2054 kHz 1050, 1420, 1340 1420, 1840. 2120.
1920, 21~O
 APPENDIX III

REPORTING ~TATIONS ON CANADIAN COAST GUARD RADIO

Vietari;] Vancollv('r Comox Alert Bay Prine(' Rupl>rt

Comox Airport Cnrorne Is. Airport

CO[ftOX Alert Say Langara
Chrorne Is. Si!'lt('rs Is. Alert Bay Chatham Pt. Green Island
Gr ief l't. Mary Is. Chatharn Pt. Pulteney Pt. Lucy Is1
Sisters Is. Ballenas ls. Cape Mudge Scarlett Pt. I.awyer ls.
Mary Is. Entrancl' Is. Cnrome Is. Bull Harbour Donilla Is.
Ballenas Is. l't. Atkinson Crief Pt. Pine Is. Cape St. James
Entrance Is. 1st Narrnw!; Sisters Is. Egg Is. Prince Rupert Airpt.
Pt. Atkinson Burrard Bay Mary Is. Addenbroke Is. Sandspit
1st Narrows .Jericho Ballenas Is. Cape Sto Jarnes Boat Bluff
Burrard Bay Sandl"l Ul'ad~ Sands Heads Pointer Is. Dryad Pt •
.I('r I eho 1'sawwn"~l'n Enlranc(! Ts. Bont Rlufr I vory I s. ......,
Sands IIcads
Tsawwassen
East Pt.
Ea!'lt Pt.
Comax Airpt.
East Pt.
Vancouver Dryad l'l.
Ivory Ts.
McGuiness Is.
McGuincss Is.
-
O

Vietoria Vietaria Cape Scott Cape Scott

Discovery Is. Dlscovery Is. Quatsino
Trial Is. Trhtl Is. Nootka
Victorla/C:ollz:1lC's RaC'l' Rncks Estev'ln l'l.
Race Rocks Lconard h;.
Slwrr i nr,ham
Cumana

For li.S. Waters: Automatic Weather Buoys

New Dlln~(>ne:e;s Follinger Is1and
Srnith Ts. Fog Point
Burrollghs Is. Herbert Island
Friday lIarhor Cathedral Point
 202

APPENDIX IV

UNITED STATES WEATHER STATIONS

Ketchikan WXJ - 26 162.55 HHz

Wrangell WXJ 83 162.40 MHz
Petersburg wXJ - 82 162.55 MHz
Juneau WXJ - 25 162.55 MHz
Sitka WXJ - 80 162.55 MHz

Continuous VHF - ~ radio broadcasts are made on the above Weather 1 and

Weather 2 stations. These are line-of-sight transmissions which are usually

received 20 to 40 miles from the antenna site. ~~ere the antennae are on hills

or mountains the range is extended. Broadcasts are taped and periodically

up-dated.

Weather information i5 a150 available from push-button boxes at major

towns in Alaska.
 APPENDIX V

TABLE OF DISTANCES

I
Craig 144 (~ia C~~e Decision & El CaPitan~ 156 (via Cordova 8ay &Cape ChacoR) The intersection of columns between two
Sitka I 148 162 159
.-
170 224
---- ----
314 (Via PeriI Strait) places i8 the approximate distance 1n
Glacier 8ay 94 188 220 290 380 nautical mile8. Distances can be added
_.. ~
.. - _.. _~

---- .
Juneau 108 148 220 310 between sections. Use only for planning.
-- ----.- - -
Petersburg 40 112 200 Measure the actual distances on your chArt.
...• _........ - ._.-
-~-.-.- • 0.0 ._---.... -
Wrangell 89 179
- ._ ...... ~--_.
",.- ........ -
---_ .._. ........90
Ketchikan
__
__ .. -
· .. _~----
Example: Safety Cove is 222 miles from

_.... __ _---_.- -
Prince Rupert
..
100 138 180 222 277 Prince Rupert, and 222 + 179 • 401 miles
Rutedale 66 80 122 177 from Wrangel1.
- - - - .. -.-- .'. - - t - - - -
~.)
Klemtu 43 85 142 o
I.>l

__
Rella Bella
---_. .
42 97
Safety Cove

a
---p-o-r-t-HL..-:-::-r-+
t
-~:: Bql:Jf-:-:;j ::: I::: I

Campbell River 31 S3 7S 99
Powell River 26 52 70
*At the entrance to Burrard Inlet Pender H~~~~-u;t-;~ I 48

I
Nanaimo I 34

_~,~~~.~~~~~~v.~~~~_~:~;~]-~~-
Ba;~·;:::::::~::: ~:q-;
(Vie Streit of 45 I 50 80
Point Roberts 13 I 28 47 SI1'8
Alaine I 31 53 Montague Harbor, Active Pass 17 39
-t-- --------,- ------ ..
Frlllny IIllrhnr 27 SIIIllI'y I 24
(ViA SAn Juan Islnncls) Victoria (Via Gulf Islands) Victoria
 204

INDEX

This index Is limited to the main points of interest in

the guide. Only the majar reference is given, and the item
may be mentioned else ..'here.

Active Pass 30 Cosmos Co\'e 180 Foggy Bay 122

Addenbroke, Point 91 Couverden Island 154 Fords Terrar 144
Admiralty Island 179 Craig 19~ Fon.. ard HarbouI' 76
Agamemnon Channel 50 Cross Sound 166 Faugner Bay 96
Alert Bay 8, 80 Current Passage 68 Fraser Reach 108
Allison Harbour 88 Currents 10 Fraser River 42
Alexander, Port 184 Customs regulations 20 Frederick Sound 134, 138, 140
Anchoring 4 Fridav Harbor 28
Angoon 178 Dall Island 194 Fuel 3
Arthur Island anchorages 102 Dangers 14 Funter Ba\' 154
Atkinson, Point 44, 46 Daylight Saving Time 13
Auke Bay 150 Deadheads 14 Gabriola Pass '34
Dean l'hannd e1t> Ga!lt'Y Bav 54
Baker Inlet 114 Decision, Cape l~:' Gar~!sQn Ba\' ~8
Baranof 182 De Courcey Island '34 Gastineau Channcl l Su
Barrier Islands 194 Degnen Ba)' 34 Gcikie lnlet 160, 161
Bartlett Co~'e 161 De Long Islands 172 Georgia, Strait of 6
Bay of Pillars 184 Del ta 42 Gibsons 46
Bedlo'ell Harbour 40 Dent Rapids 7, IO, 7~ Gi l Island ::m
Bella Be Ila Nelo'
I 98 Departure Bay 36 Gi llard Passage IO, 7'2
Bella Coola 96 Desolation Sound 54 Glacial ice 17
Bick ley Bay 74 Discovery Passage 64 Glacier Ba)' 158
Big Bay 72 Distances, Table of ~03 Glaciers I, 159
Bishop Bay (hotspring) 108 Dixon Entrance 8,122,196 Goldstream Harbour 94
Blaine 38 Dodds Narrolo's 36 Gorge Harbour 56
Blind Channel 74 Doolth !'Iountain 170 Graham Reach 108
Blunden Harbour 88 Douglas 150 Grand Pacific Glacier 162
Blue Mouse Cove 162 Dowager Island 102 Grey .. La!e 21
Books 13 DI'a\'ton Harbor 39 Greene Point Rapids 74
Broughton Strait 82 Dry Pass 188 Grenville Channel 110, 112
BrDl," Passage 196 Dry Strait 134 Grey, Point 42
Brundige lnlet 122, 196 Dnad Point 98 Grief Point 5~
Bucareli Bay 192 Dundas Island IIS, 196 Guide r"ln,,: 56
Buoyage, Canadian and r.s. 12 Cui f Islands 6, 30
Butedale 108 Ea r I Led?,p Gun boa t P:JS"c1~(,
Egg lsland Cu~t.1\·!j:S
Calm Channel 7'2 El Capitan Passage 18-=-
Calder Bay 188 El fi n C')\'e 166 Haines 15:2
Calvert Island 92, 94 Eli Co H,' ISO Hakai PassJ~e o:,
Campbell River 62 Endicott Mm 144 Halket Ba\' ~ò
Caution, Cape 7, 90 Engl ish Ba\' 44 Harbntt P0int ì~
Charon, Cape 194, 196 Entrance lsland (Hnbart Ba\') 142 Harbour porpUlse 23
Chancellor Channel 76 Entrance lsland (\anaimo) 36 Hard\', Poré 84
Charles Bay 74 Entry Procedures 19 Har\'ey, Port 78
Charts, lists of 12, 199, 200 Ernest Sound 128 Hecate Strait 197
Chatham Point 66 Eureka Channel 194 Helmcken Island 68
Chatham Sound 118, 197 Herbert Reef5 116
Chatham Strait 178, 180, 182 False Egg Island 90 Hiek i sh \arro .... 5 104
Clarence Strait 126, 130 Favorite Bay lì~ Hobart Ba\' 142
Chichagof Island 168, 170 Finback ,,'hale ') )
Holkham Ba)' 144
Chilkat Inlet 152 Finlayson Channel 102, 104 Hoonah 1')6
Chilkoot lnlet 152 First t..:arro,",s Hotham 50und ')U
Clothing 17 Fish Egg Island lQ~ H(j..'e Sound 46
Coal Harbour 44 Fishermans C',\'e .4~ Hugh ~ill('r Inlct 10.2
Coghlan Anchorage IlO Fishing licenccs lo Hu~pback .. hJl(:
Commodore Passage 34 Fishing nets 15 HI'daburli. 194
Cardero Channel 74 Fitz Hugh Sliund q~, 9!. H\'pother::1la 113
ror~orant Island 80 Fi\'e Finger Liaht 12, 142
C'ortes lsland 56 Flat Top IsJ3nd~ 34 Ice Ib
C"ugar Bay 104 Fog 18 ICI' Strai t 154
 205

lnia~ ·~.)\"e 166 !1alcolm lsland 8:: Port Protection 180

lnner :Qint Sophia 156 ~alibu Rapids 50 Portage Cove 138
lnsi':" Passage 2 Mansons Land ing 56 Pc r t o f En t r y 20
lvor~ :sland Light 100 Margarie Glacier 162 Powell River 52
Mary Cove 104 Prideaux Haven 54
Jacks:::: Passage 102 Mathieson Channel 100, 102 Prince Rupert 118, 196
Jane Fassage 104 Mayne Passage 74 Princess Louisa Inlet 50
Jen'i;; Inlet 50 Melanie Cove 54 Promise Island 110
Jimmy Judd Island 73 Mendenhall Glacier 150 Pulteney Point 82
Joe Ba~' 50 Meters, to fathoms 207 Pruth Bay 94
John H~pkins Glacier 162 Meyers Chuck 126
Johns:~ne Strait 68, 70, 78 Milbanke Sound 100 Quadra Island 62
Jones Cove 90 Mi l brook Cove 90 Quathiaski Cove 62
Juan ~e fuca Strait 25 Miles Inlet 88 Queen Charlotte Islands 2, 197
Junea;; ISO Miners Bay 30 Queen Charlottte Sound 90
Minke whale 22 Queen Charlotte Strait 88, 90
Kah S~"lkes Cove 122 Mirages 17
Kake 138 Misty Fiords ~at'l. ~onument 124 Race Passage 68
Kakul ~arrows 172 Montague Harbour 30 Radio beacons 8, 9
J(alir..i~ Ba)" 172 Moo/age 4 Refuge Cove (Galiano Is.) 32
Karhee:. Passage 190 Morning Reef 112 Refuge Cove (~. Redonda Is.) 58
KasO\"ku Bav 180 Moss Passage 102 Reid lnlet 162
Keat~ Isla~d 46 Mount Edgecumbe 174 Reid Passage 100
Keku Strait 134, 138 Mount Fairweather 158, 161 Rendu lnlet 159
Kelp 14 Muir Glacier 164 Retreat Cave 32
Kelsey Bay 70 Mudge, Cape 64 Revillagigedo Channel 122, 123
Ketchikan 124 Murder Cove 182 Richmond 42
Khaz Bay 170 Riggs Glacier 164
Khutze Inlet 108 Naden Harbour 201 Ripple Rock 64
Killer whale (Orca) 21 Nakwatko Rapids B8 Rivers Inlet 92
Kil1i5000 178 Namu 96 Roche Harbor 28
Kimi5!:an Cove 170 Nanaimo 36 Rose Spit 197
lClag Bay 170 Native cultures 14 Ruth Islands 140
Kla~ock 192 Navigational aids 12 Ryus Bay 196
Klemtu 104 Neva Strait 192
Kle~n;;~git 112 Ne\'ille, Port 78 Salisbury Sound 172
Klikts~~tli Harbour 98 Se. \iestminster 42 San Alberto Bay 192
Koeye River 94 ~e.castle Island 36 San Christoval Channel 190
Kootz:;a~oo Inlet 178 Ximpki sh Ri ver Bank 80 San Juan Islands 28
Kua~u~e lnlet 94 SOAA ~eather Radio 202 Sands Head 42
Kur.:t:a:·;n lnlet 114 ~orth Arm, Fraser River 42 Sarah lsland 104
Klo"ak:~:1 14 ~orth Point, Safety Cove 93 Sarkar Cave 188
h3k~~"ua Channel 94 Sotices to Mariners 12 SalOyer Glacier 144
SO\oòÌsh Cove 104 Scarlett Point 84, 90
Lady Trutch Passage 100 Sunez Rocks IQ4 Scenery Cave Il.O
Lama :=assage 98 Scott, Cape 84
lampL~h Glacier 162 Ocean falls 98 Seaforth Channel 100
Laura Cove 54 01ga Strait ]72 Secret Cove l.8
La PE:r')use, Mount 158, 160 01 i ver Co\"e J 00 Semiahmoo Harbor and Spit 38
Lp C·~~":e Glacier 136 Orca (killer) whale 21 Sergius Narrows 172
Leme;;;;rier Point 126, 128 Otter Cove 66 Seymour Narrolo"s 64
Light; 12 Oscar Passage 10~ Shakan Strai[ 188
lime:::one Inlet ] 46 Shearwater 98
Lisia~5ki lnlet and Strait 168 Papkes Landing 135 Shoemaker Boat Harbor 130
Li tt!e- Dent Island 72 Pelican ' , 168 Sidney 26
Lizz:~ Cove 98 Pender Harbour 50 Silva Bay 34
Lou~~: :r')ugh Inlet 76 PeriI Strait l i:: Sitka li4
LOlo"e ::llet 110 Petersburg 136 Skagway 152
Lund 52 Piehle Passage 135 Smith Sound 90
L)'nn (anal 152 Pine Island 90 Smugglers Cove Marine Park 48
Pirates Cove ~Iarine Park 34 Sointula 82
!1cBri;;e Glacier 164 Point Baker 186 Sauth Passage 90
Mc!\eill, Port 82 Point Roberts 40 Sauth Inian Pass 166
Mc~icking Island 116 Porcher Island 116 Spanish Banks 34
Magnetic disturbances 16, 128 Porlier Pass 33 Squirrel Cove 58
Malasjlina Inlet 49 Port Alexander 184 Steveston 42
 206

Stikine River 130 Tolmie Channel 104 Weather 9, 200, 202

Storm Islands 91 Tongass Narrows 124 Io'elcome Passage 48
Strait of Georgia 6. 34 Tono ....ek Sarrows 190 Wel1bore Channel 76
Stuart Island 72 Topaze Harbour 76 West Cracroft Island 78
Sunderland Channel 76 Triple Island Light 202 Westview 52
Sukoi Inlet
Sumner SU"ait
172
186
Tracy Arm
Tsunamis
144
16
Io'hales, ident ification
WhaletOlòn
21- 23
i8
Surveyor Passage 170 Tuxekan Passage 190 White Rock 38
Svanson Harbor 154, 157 Io'hite Sulphur Springs no
l'ganda Passage 58 White~tone Sarro.... s 172
Takatz Bay 180 rnion Bay 126, 128 Whirlpool Rapids 76
Taku Harbor 146 l'rsula Channel 108 w'hirlwind Bay 96
Tamgass Harbor 196 Winchelsea ContraI 6
Tebenkoff Bay 184 \"ancouver 42, 44 Wooden w'heeI Cove 186
Tenakee Springs 178 \'eno Passage 118 work Island 108
Tenedos Bar ')4 Very Inlet 122 Wrangel1 130
Teot Island Marine Park 32 Victoria 26 Wrangell Sarrows 134
Thormanby Islands 48 \'ixeo Harbor 128 Wright Sound 110
Thrasher Rock 34 \"on Donop Inlet 58
Three Hill Islaod 168 )'ucuIta Rapids 72
Tides and currents lO liales, Prince of, Island 192 Yakobi lsland 168
Tide Tables lI, 198. 199 lialker Group 88
Tlevak Narro .... s 194 \iarm Springs Bar 182 Zayas Island 197
Tokeeo 188 waterfall Cove 180 Zimovia Strait 128
 207

SYMBOLS

I f,J-
----- Recommended route

"
I.~ Lights in line on bearing

Anchorage Reported anchorage

Rock or reef underwater Dangerous rock or reef

Rocks exposed by tide c·· ..

.' .:
. '.'
:. :
Shoal area exposed by tide

Steeprocky edges
ff Sandy or pebbly beach

Glacier
\O Land areas

Lights Beacons, not necessarily lit

Depth contour in fathoms Flood current

4 , 4f Depth in fathoms Ebb current

Sand bottom Eddies or whirlpools

5

Mud bottom Rips and/or overfalls

Rock bottom 5 kt'\ Current velocity in knots

NOTE: All depths are given in fathoms, except where specifically mentioned
in feet. Very approximately, 2 meters = l fathom and,
exactly, 1.8 meters = l fathom
;"... "
",.
~I ·-l '.
~
~ ~I
!! ;1 ~I .-•"
'l
"

._ _ _....,...+. ,51
.,';

THE SOUTHERN PORTION

Victoria to Prince Rupert

NOI IO be used for navigalion

For nOflhern portion se. front endpapers

. I S:

-t").
~
"'io/'
)..
_--=5:..;:,~ tiort 4

;2- I I l . 0 -urnur:.Jf.T I Y l, ~ __, 5

•

Qu~f~ r
ru ... "."oIrt ... ..:
I

;~~j~Jr~~~~~~~[J-3-ZI
r

L_
I.

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<4:
~
u
o

•
~
. In
•
,
III
 CHARLIE'S CHART8 - N0RTH T0 ALASKA

REID GLACIER, l-;LACIER BA Y

CHARLIE 8 CI-IART8 1

~l1rrl'\', B.C., CanaJa

ISB~ 0-9691412-2-X