DOS CAMINOS TACOS

Recipes for Everyone’s Favorite

Mexican Street Food

IVY STARK with Joanna Pruess

 To the borough of Brooklyn where I live:

The place I love most on earth for its inspiring diversity of people,
neighborhoods, great food,
appreciation of innovation, and resilience.
 CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

A FEW GENERAL NOTES

TECHNIQUES

TORTILLAS, SALSA, AND CONDIMENTS: BASICS

VEGETARIAN TACOS

FISH AND SEAFOOD TACOS

POULTRY TACOS

BEEF, PORK, AND GAME TACOS

SIDE DISHES

DESSERT TACOS

BEVERAGES

CHILES, EXPLAINED

GLOSSARY

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INDEX

ALSO BY IVY STARK

DOS CAMINOS TACOS
INTRODUCTION

WE SERVE THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF

TACOS EACH WEEK AT DOS CAMINOS, AND
OCCASIONALLY A GUEST ASKS ABOUT THEIR
ORIGINS.
Having majored in history in college, and traveled and cooked
throughout Mexico for decades, I still don’t have a conclusive answer.
Although Mexicans have eaten corn tortillas with meat, insects,
vegetables, or beans folded inside them for centuries, it wasn’t until
the 20th century that the taco achieved its current popularity.
One theory is that 18th-century silver miners called the small
charges they used to excavate ore “tacos,” referring to little pieces of
paper wrapped around gunpowder that were stuck into the mountains
and detonated, writes Mexican food scholar Jeffrey Pilcher in
Smithsonian magazine. They were first mentioned in print at the end
of the 19th century, and this included a reference to tacos de minero,
or miner’s tacos.
Whether these origins are fact or fiction is unknown. But by
extension, the mildly spicy or fiery dishes might be thought of as
explosive in the mouth.
Once Mexicans crossed the Rio Grande into Texas—still part of
New Spain at the time—tacos became a staple of southwestern or
Tex-Mex cooking. By the mid-20th century, they had become
mainstream in American cuisine and indispensable items in
supermarkets and fast-food franchises.
I have a taco notebook that grows fatter and fatter every year. It’s
stained with salsa and greasy fingerprints, crinkled from splashes of
beer and agua fresca, and positively stuffed with menus, place mats,
matchbooks, photos, and scribbled recipes from the many taquerías I
have visited in search of the perfect taco … and I have found some
stellar ones.
Everyone has personal favorites. Californians are particularly
passionate about their tacos and are lucky enough to live in a place
full of great taquerías and trucks, but I will throw mine out here in no
particular order:

In Mexico City, El Villamelón for their “Campechanos” made with a

combination of cecina (salted and dried meat), longaniza (spicy
sausage), and chicharrón (crispy pork rind), and the guy who sells the
amazing meringues just outside Los Panchos, in the Polanco
neighborhood, for his carnitas. Beatricita for tacos guisados—a stew
over a tortilla that’s a DF (Federal District of Mexico City) thing. In
Puebla, Las Ranas for the tacos arabes, and Tacos Tony for tacos al
pastor. And in Baja, Tacos la Floresta for expert fish tacos.
In Los Angeles, I practically lived on tacos in my college days and I
would drive all the way across town from my apartment in Venice to
Los Cinco Puntos for their tongue tacos. These days, I head to the
ball fields in Red Hook on the weekend for Chai Perez’ Piaztlan
Authentic Mexican Food Truck and her goat barbacoa. I’m always
on the lookout for great tacos.
Today Americans are obsessed with tacos, seeking out the most
authentic versions in traditional taquerías and having fun with the
creative versions American chefs are endlessly playing with.
Regardless of their origins, a taco with a wonderfully seasoned filling
in a warm, handmade corn tortilla is an exquisite thing!
I think the tacos that our restaurants serve reflect our name Dos
Caminos, or two roads. For the most part, they are prepared
according to traditional recipes, many of which have been around for
centuries. Sometimes, however, I veer off that main path and try a
somewhat modern or more creative approach. But when making these
decisions, I always try to respect the origins of the whole taco
experience.
In this book, you’ll find some of the most popular tacos served at
our restaurants, as well as some that I have prepared for holidays and
other special events. I hope you enjoy your discovery of the many
possible varieties of tacos and that these will inspire you to create
some of your own.
WHAT MAKES A TACO
The key to a great taco is the tortillas, the flatbreads that are the
center of every Mexican meal. I can’t emphasize how much better a
homemade tortilla tastes and even feels in your mouth compared with
those that are commercially produced. Try making them at least once.
I think you’ll be amazed how easy they are.
Most tacos in this book and across Mexico are made with soft corn
tortillas of white, blue, or yellow cornmeal. Corn, treated with an
alkaline solution before being ground into flour, had been used for
millennia before the Spaniards introduced wheat into the country. The
cornmeal is then mixed with water and made into balls of masa, or
dough, that are flattened on a tortilla press and then cooked on a
comal.
 The major exceptions to corn tortillas are in Baja California, where
their fish tacos are traditionally wrapped in flour tortillas, and U.S.
border states where flour tortillas were created using local white flour.
While not the original, homemade flour tortillas can be quite delicious.
Generally we use tortillas that are between 4 and 6 inches in
diameter in the restaurants. In this book, unless otherwise specified,
5- to 6-inch tacos are fine. Contrary to packaged taco shells in
supermarkets, rarely are tortillas fried. Most often they are just heated
until soft and served warm.
For the filling, technically almost anything can be used, and there
are countless creative taco interpretations by today’s chefs. That said,
Mexicans always have tortillas on the table, so whatever they’re
eating, from meat loaf to grilled fish or vegetables, grilled fish or
vegetables, can become a taco. (Check out my recipe for Isthmian-
Style Meat Loaf Tacos on page 210.)
Salsas are another essential component of tacos. They can be as
familiar as Pico de Gallo and Salsa Verde Cruda, two of the most
commonly used sauces found in every taquería. Neither would be
inappropriate to add except on dessert tacos. Another very popular
sauce is made with chiles de árbol, spicier, fiery red chiles.
Throughout this book, however, you’ll find numerous other choices.
Look at the recipes and mix and match at will.
Finally, bite for bite, garnishes and side dishes often bring the
whole taco experience together. In most recipes, I suggest salsa,
garnishes, and side dishes, but I hope you will explore the diverse
choices throughout this book. Some taco recipes are as flexible as
you want them to be: Make the filling and add whichever salsa and
toppings appeal to you. In others, I have suggested some of my
favorite garnishes. But I hate rules when it comes to recipes. Have fun
with your tacos!
I’ve tried to share some of the satisfying and diverse possibilities—
both traditional and creative—that tacos can add to your cooking
experiences. I hope you’ll share them with your family and friends.

—Jvy Stark
A FEW GENERAL NOTES

INGREDIENTS
Oil: I usually use “blended” oil: a combination of 90 percent vegetable
(canola) oil mixed with 10 percent olive oil. This way, you get oil with
the olive flavor but with a much higher flame point. Unless a recipe
specifies “olive oil,” use blended oil.
Onions: In Mexico, white onions are most commonly used in cooking.
However, yellow onions are fine.
Salt: I prefer either fine or coarse sea salt or kosher salt. To me,
iodized salt imparts a metallic taste to food.
If you come upon an ingredient that you don’t understand, you’ll
find it in the back of this book.

QUANTITIES: Throughout the recipes, in most cases I’ve tried to

specify quantities for salsas, condiments, and side dishes. However,
these are broad guidelines. Please enjoy your tacos your way. If you
like more or less salsa, fine. If you want to use other condiments: also
fine. My recipes are only meant as guidelines. As a point of reference,
if you want to eyeball amounts of filling, at the restaurants we usually
put about ⅓ cup or 3 ounces of protein in each taco.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: Very little special equipment is needed to

make tacos, and you probably already have most of it in your kitchen.
A cast-iron skillet or plancha, electric blender, and food processor are
very helpful. A barbecue is useful for grilling. For authentic Mexican
cooking, a tortilla press and a comal, flat griddle, also are helpful.
TECHNIQUES

GARLIC CLOVES, ROASTED: Set a heavy ungreased skillet or

griddle over medium heat. Roast the garlic cloves, turning frequently,
until blackened in spots and very soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

TORTILLAS, WARMED: Wrap the tortillas in foil and put them in a

preheated 350-degree oven or toaster oven for 10 minutes. Or place
them directly on the griddle or grill and cook until lightly browned on
each side, about 1 minute, turning once.

TORTILLAS, FRIED: In a heavy skillet, heat about ½ cup of blended

oil to 350 degrees or until a drop of water added to the pan pops.
Using tongs, slide the tortillas into the oil and quickly cook until small
brown spots form on one side, 10 to 20 seconds. Turn and cook the
second side to color. Remove to paper towels to blot the oil. You can
stack fried tortillas on top of one another, separated by paper towels.

CHILES, ROASTING (FRESH): To enhance the flavor of chiles and

remove their thin outer skin, put them directly over medium heat on a
gas stovetop to char the flesh. Turn them often until the flesh is evenly
blistered, about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size. Do not let them
burn.
Transfer to a plastic bag and close, or cover with a damp cloth, and
let them cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Using your hands or under cold
running water, slide the skins off. If any skin sticks, use a sharp paring
knife. Make a lengthwise cut along the chile, remove the seeds and
membranes, and dice.

CHILES, ROASTING AND REHYDRATING (DRIED): To enhance the

aroma and make dried chiles easier to grind or puree, first wipe them
and discard the stem. Slit one long side to remove the seeds and
veins. Lightly roast the chiles in a preheated heavy skillet or griddle
over medium heat until you smell a toasty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes,
pressing them flat with a metal spatula to cook them evenly, and
taking care not to burn them.
Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add just enough lukewarm water to
cover completely, and soak until soft and pliable, 5 to 10 minutes,
stirring occasionally to rehydrate evenly. Drain, reserving some of the
soaking liquid, and puree in the jar of an electric blender, adding a
little of the rehydrating liquid, if needed, so the blades turn easily. If
desired, strain to remove any bits of skin.

SPICES, TOASTED: In a skillet over medium-high heat, toast whole

spices for 2 to 4 minutes, shaking the pan often to make sure they
don’t burn. Use in dishes either whole or ground to enliven their flavor
and fragrance.
TOMATOES, ROASTED: Toss tomatoes with a little blended oil, and
season with salt and pepper. Place them uncut in a heavy skillet or on
a cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil. Cook over high heat on top of
the stove or in a hot oven in a single layer until the skins are blistered
and browned, shaking the pan and turning occasionally. They can also
be cooked under a broiler.
TORTILLAS, SALSA, AND CONDIMENTS:
Basics
 BASIC TORTILLA
Masa
YIELD: 12-16 TORTILLAS, DEPENDING ON SIZE

At the center of any Mexican meal are corn tortillas.

They are quick and easy to make, and Mexicans use them to turn anything
into a taco.

1¾ cups masa harina

1⅛ cups hot water

1. In a medium bowl, mix together the masa harina and water until
completely blended. Turn the dough onto a clean surface and knead
until smooth. If the dough is too sticky, add more masa harina. If too
dry, sprinkle with water. Cover the dough tightly with plastic wrap and
let it stand for 30 minutes.

2. Preheat a cast-iron skillet or griddle to medium heat.

3. Divide the dough into walnut-sized balls. Using a tortilla press, a

rolling pin, two heavy books, or your hands, press each ball of dough
flat between two sheets of plastic wrap.

4. Place a tortilla in the preheated pan and cook for approximately 30

seconds, or until slightly browned. Turn the tortilla, cook the second
side for about 30 seconds, and then transfer to a plate. Repeat the
process with each ball of dough.

5. Keep the tortillas covered with a towel to stay warm and moist until
you’re ready to serve.
 BASIC TORTILLA
Flour
Yield: 12-16 TORTILLAS, depending on size

While corn tortillas are traditional in Mexico, flour tortillas are used in
Baja California and along the U.S. border. When homemade, they can be
delicious. The amount of water needed will vary with different types of
flour. The dough should be firm and not sticky, like Play-Doh.

2 cups all-purpose flour

¼ cup vegetable shortening or lard, cut into pieces
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup warm water

1. In a bowl, using two knives or a pastry blender, mix the flour,

shortening, baking powder, and salt until it resembles fine meal. Add
the water, a little at a time, and mix until the liquid is incorporated.

2. Form the dough into a ball and knead on a floured surface until the
dough is smooth and elastic. Divide and make 12 smaller balls. Cover
and let stand for at least 30 minutes.

3. Roll out each ball of dough on a floured surface to make 7-inch

tortillas. Place on a preheated griddle or cast-iron skillet and cook until
slightly golden on both sides and cooked through.

4. To make ahead: Remove the tortillas to a basket lined with a cloth

towel, or put them between towels until cool. After the tortillas have
cooled completely, store them in a plastic bag. Rewarm on a grill or
griddle for a few seconds before serving.
 BASIC TORTILLA
Cilantra
Yield: 12-16 TORTILLAS, DEPENDING ON SIZE

Cilantro adds a special character to tortillas, but really, any herb can be
used.
Basil is great, or you can try spinach.
Just remember to blot your greens very dry before using.

¼ cup cilantro leaves

1 recipe Basic Tortilla Masa

1. Blanch the cilantro in boiling water, shock it in cold water, squeeze

dry, and mince. Prepare the masa according to the recipe (above),
mix in the cilantro, roll the masa into 15 balls, and proceed according
to the recipe.

2. Drain the beans and reserve the liquid. Using a potato masher or
the back of a wooden spoon, mash the beans, along with some of the
bean cooking liquid, until creamy but not completely mashed.

3. In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat.

Sauté the onion with the oregano and a teaspoon of salt until golden
brown, about 10 minutes. Add the mashed beans and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the liquid evaporates and the beans form a mass
that pulls away from the sides and bottom of the pan, about 10
minutes.

4. Transfer to the jar of an electric blender. With the motor running,

purée the beans while adding the lemon olive oil in a steady stream.
Season to taste with salt.
 DOS CAMINOS’S HOUSE
Hot Sauce
YIELD: ABOUT 2 CUPS

Luscious, ripe mangoes shine in our very hot House Hot Sauce and,
honestly, there’s no other fruit that works as magically, especially when the
fruit is ripe. If it’s not totally mature, adjust the recipe with a little more
sugar and a bit more salt. In a pinch, you could use a generous cup of
defrosted frozen, unsweetened mangoes. Stored in a tightly covered
container, it will keep in the refrigerator for a couple of days. If you prefer,
use only two habañeros.

3 habañero chiles, coarsely chopped

1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped
⅓ cup yellow mustard
1½ tablespoons firmly packed dark brown sugar
1½ tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon ground chiles de árbol
1 teaspoon chile powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon yellow curry powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1. In the jar of an electric blender, combine the habañeros, mango,

mustard, brown sugar, vinegar, chiles de árbol, chile powder, cumin,
curry powder, and salt. Blend until smooth.
2. Scrape into a bowl, whisk in black pepper to taste, and adjust the
salt level, if desired.

HOW TO PEEL AND CUT UP A MANGO

For starters, buy a mango with a little give to be sure it’s ripe. Figure out
which is the flat side of the mango; it corresponds with the wide side of the
large seed inside. Stand the mango on one end and cut off the side as close to
the seed as possible, making a large “cheek.” Turn and cut off the other side
along the seed. Pare away the remaining flesh around the edges in a crescent
shape. Using a sharp paring knife, make crisscross cuts in the flesh, turn the
skin inside out, and cut across the mango to make nice cubes. Or, once it’s
removed from the seed, you can scoop out the flesh with a large spoon and
cut it into small cubes afterward.
 SALSA VERDE
YIELD: 2 CUPS

Salsa Verde, or tomatillo salsa, is a fresh-tasting alternative to those made

with tomatoes, and you might quickly become addicted to its citrusy taste.
The fruit is a relative of tomatoes, but smaller, and grows inside a papery
husk that must be removed before using. When totally cooled, this
condiment may be refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen in a well-sealed
container for 6 months.

3 small tomatillos, husked, washed, and coarsely chopped

2 small cloves garlic, split
1 jalapeño, stemmed and coarsely chopped
1 medium white onion
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
½ tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Fine Sea Salt

1. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add the

tomatillos, garlic, jalapeño, and onion. Simmer for 7 to 8 minutes,
depending on size, and drain. Reserve the cooking liquid.

2. Transfer the tomatillos to the jar of an electric blender along with

the cilantro, lime juice, and salt to taste, and puree until smooth,
adding some of the cooking liquid, if needed, to achieve a smooth
consistency. Return the mixture to the pan and simmer gently for 15
minutes. Taste to adjust the seasoning, as needed. Remove and
serve cool.
 ROASTED TOMATO
Chile de árbol SALSA
YIELD: 4 CUPS

Probably the most commonly used chile for table salsa in Mexico, the ábol
chile is spicy and bright in flavor. It’s also bright red, so it’s used for a
decorative element as well as good flavoring. This salsa is used several
times in the book, and it’s always delicious.

4 ripe Roma tomatoes (about 1 pound)

2 unpeeled cloves garlic
1 medium white onion
1 serrano chile
1 chile de árbol, stemmed and seeded
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 bunch fresh cilantro, coarse stems removed
Fine sea salt

1. Position a broiler rack 8 inches from the heat and preheat the
broiler. Broil the tomatoes, garlic, onion, and serrano and árbol chiles
until blackened all over. Leave the blackened skin on the vegetables.

2. Transfer the ingredients to the jar of an electric blender and pulse

until coarsely chopped. Season to taste with salt.
 Chipotle SALSA
YIELD: 4 CUPS

A chipotle is a smoked jalapeno. This recipe uses canned chipotles en

adabo, which are a great pantry staple. Dried, rehydrated chipotles would
work as well here

1 large white onion

¼ cup olive or blended oil or a mixture
4 cloves garlic
1 (28-ounce) can peeled tomatoes including juices
2 canned chipotles en adobo
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon dried epazote, or dried basil may be substituted
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon ground allspice
Fine sea salt to taste

1. Turn the broiler on. Lightly brush the onion with a little oil and broil it
in a flat pan about 5 inches from the heat until soft and golden, turning
once.

2. In a small skillet, heat a few drops of oil over medium heat. Add the
garlic and sauté until soft and golden, shaking the pan occasionally.
3. Transfer the onion and garlic to the jar of an electric blender. Add
the tomatoes, chipotles, bay leaf, cumin, epazote, oregano, cinnamon,
pepper, and allspice; puree until smooth. Pour the mixture into a large
saucepan and simmer for 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
 TOMATILLO Pasilla de Oaxaca
SALSA
YIELD: ABOUT 2 CUPS

This salsa is smoky-sweet and tart at the same time. Add a few teaspoons of
mezcal for a really unique salsa. I put it on everything at home and it is
especially nice served warm with chips on a cold day. It appears in several
recipes throughout the book.

½ pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered

1 teaspoon lard or blended oil
2 medium cloves garlic
3 small pasilla de Oaxaca chiles
Fine sea salt
2-3 teaspoons mezcal (optional)

1. In a small saucepan, combine the tomatillos with enough water to

come about halfway up the sides of the tomatillos. Cover and cook
over medium heat until the tomatillos are soft, about 10 minutes.
Strain, reserving the liquid.

2. Meanwhile, on the plancha or in a heavy skillet, melt the lard or

heat the oil and cook the garlic until soft and well charred on all sides,
5 to 10 minutes. Transfer to the jar of an electric blender.

3. Add the chiles to the plancha and toast for 2 minutes per side. Tear
the chiles into pieces, discarding the stem and seeds, and transfer to
the blender jar. Add the cooking liquid and a large pinch of salt to the
jar and blend until smooth. Add the tomatillos, blend, and season with
salt as necessary. Stir in mezcal, if using.
 Pico de Gallo
YIELD: ABOUT 2 CUPS

Pico de Gallo, or Salsa Fresca, is the basic fresh uncooked tomato salsa
that you’ll use again and again. It’s infinitely superior to any product
packaged in a jar and takes minutes to make. Pico de Gallo translates to
“Rooster’s Beak.” Nobody knowns the true origins of the name, but given
the Mexican’s love of nicknames, I like to think it comes from the chiles
“pecking” at your tongue.

4 Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and finely diced

2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced
1 red onion, finely diced
½ cup chopped cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
Fine sea salt

1. In a bowl, combine the tomatoes, jalapeños, onion, cilantro, and

lime juice.

2. Season to taste with salt, cover, and refrigerate.

 APPLE ONION
Pico de Gallo
YIELD: 2 CUPS

This citrus-scented blend of apples, onions, and jalapeños is a refreshing

complement to pork tacos. Honeycrisps are my favorite apples, but any
variety of apples can be used.”

Juice of 1 lemon
2 Honeycrisp or Gala apples, peeled, cored, and julienned
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and julienned
1 jalapeño, seeded and julienned
½ red onion, julienned
½ cup julienned cilantro
Juice of 1½ limes
Fine sea salt

1. Fill a bowl with cold water and add the lemon juice. Add the apples
as you peel them to prevent them from turning brown.

2. Drain apples and blot dry. In a large bowl, combine the apples,
jalapeño, onion, cilantro, lime juice, and salt to taste.
 BLACK BEAN
Pico de Gallo
YIELD: 2½ CUPS

Once black beans (either just cooked or canned) are well rinsed to prevent
the salsa from turning dark, you can appreciate the bright colors and
flavors of tomatoes, corn, and onions accented with diced chorizo. The
Spanish dried variety of the sausage is firmer than Mexican chorizo and
has a mildly spicy taste. When refrigerated, the salsa lasts about 4 days.

1 ear corn, shucked

½ [8-ounce] link Spanish dried chorizo, preferably Palacios
brand, split lengthwise
1 cup cooked black beans or canned black beans, well rinsed and
drained
2 medium tomatoes, cored and diced
¼ cup chopped green onions, including most of the green parts
¼ cup diced red onion
¼ cup chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño pepper
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1½ teaspoons ancho chile powder
1½ teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt

1. Grill the whole ear of corn on a grill or grill pan and cut from cob.
You should have about ½ cup. Alternatively, using a sharp knife, cut
the kernels from an ear of corn.

2. In a skillet, heat 1 teaspoon of oil over medium-high heat. Add the

corn and cook until lightly charred, shaking the pan often. Remove
and cool.

3. Wipe out the skillet, or use a grill, and heat. Add the chorizo and
cook for 1 minute on each side, turning once. Remove, cool, and dice.

4. Place the beans, tomatoes, corn, green and red onions, cilantro,
jalapeño, lime juice, chile powder, oil, and salt in a bowl. Add the
cooled chorizo, and. stir to blend.
 WATERMELON
Pico de Gallo
YIELD: 2½ CUPS

In the heat of late summer, when watermelons are at their best, switch up
the tomatoes for this refreshing fruit. Salting the watermelon before adding
the other ingredients will help to remove some of the moisture and keep the
salsa from being watery. This is outstanding on grilled chicken or pork
ribs.

dash fine sea salt

2 cups watermelon, cut into ½-inch cubes
2 serrano chiles, sliced paper-thin with seeds
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1½ tablespoons mint leaves, cut in chiffonade
1 teaspoon Maldon or other coarse sea salt

1. In a large bowl, sprinkle sea salt on the watermelon and turn to mix.
Add the serranos, lime juice, mint leaves, and coarse salt.

2. Toss gently and refrigerate for 2 hours before using.

 GUA CAMOLE
YIELD: 2 CUPS

In Mexico, guacamole is more of a table condiment or salsa. Dos

Caminos’s guacamole is probably our most famous dish. It’s been voted the
best in many different polls. What makes ours so good? First, guacamole is
at its best when made just before serving it. Another key to success is
California-grown Hass avocados because they have a creamier, denser
texture than all other varieties. This recipe may be multiplied as many
times as you like. The spice level can be raised or lowered by adjusting the
amount of chile you add. Generally figure that guacamole made with 1
avocado serves two; 2 serves four to six; 3 avocados serves six to eight.

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves

2 teaspoons finely chopped white onion
2 teaspoons minced jalapeño or serrano chiles, seeds and
membranes removed if desired
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 large ripe avocados, preferably Hass variety, peeled and
seeded
2 tablespoons cored, seeded, and finely chopped plum tomatoes
(about 1 small tomato)
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1. In a medium-size bowl or molcajete, use the back of a spoon to

mash 1 tablespoon of the cilantro, 1 teaspoon onion, 1 teaspoon of
minced chile, and ½ teaspoon salt together against the bottom of the
bowl.

2. Add the avocados and gently mash them with a fork until chunky-
smooth.

3. Fold the remaining cilantro, onion, and chile into the mixture.

4. Stir in the tomatoes and lime juice, taste to adjust the seasonings,
and serve with a basket of warm corn tortilla chips or chicharonnes
(see page 156).
 AVOCADO
Aioli
YIELD: 1½ CUPS

When you blend creamy avocados mixed with mayonnaise and serrano
chile with lime juice, you get this zesty aioli that can be used on all kinds of
tacos. I love it on fish and poultry. It may be prepared up to 8 hours ahead
of time and refrigerated in an airtight container to prevent oxidation. The
heat level of serrano (and other) chiles can vary between hot and milder
temperatures. Depending on the time of year, and the amount of chiles used
in a recipe, you may want to start by adding a little less to a recipe and
then increasing the amount after you verify the intensity.

1 large, ripe avocado, preferably Hass variety, peeled and pitted

½ cup mayonnaise, not light variety
½ serrano chile
Zest and juice of 1 large lime
Fine sea salt

1. In the jar of an electric blender, puree the avocado, mayonnaise,

chile, and zest and juice of the lime until smooth.

2. Scrape into a bowl, season to taste with salt, and serve.

 Chipotle
AIOLI
YIELD: 2 CUPS

We use this as a final drizzle on many tacos.

It is particularly good with seafood. It also makes a fantastic sandwich
spread.
Try it on a cheeseburger — yum!

2 cups mayonnaise, not light variety

4 canned chipotles en adobo
4 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh dill
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
Fine sea salt

1. In the jar of an electric blender, combine the mayonnaise, chipotles

en adobo, garlic, dill, and lime juice.

2. Puree until smooth and season to taste with salt.

 Cracked BLACK PEPPER
Aioli
YIELD: 2 CUPS

The tiny bits of peppercorns and thyme leaves in this creamy aioli (it never
becomes totally smooth) make this sauce an exciting accent for fish tacos
and oven-roasted fish fillets. If you’re using store-bought, use commercial
mayonnaise, not salad dressings or spreads, which are too thin.

½ cup freshly cracked black peppercorns

3 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
3 cloves garlic, minced
1½ cups mayonnaise, not light variety
Fine sea salt
Cayenne pepper

1. In a food processor, puree the pepper, vinegar, thyme, and garlic

until almost smooth. Scrape into a small bowl.

2. Whisk in the mayonnaise, season with salt and a touch of cayenne

pepper, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
 BACON-FAT-PICKLED
Jalapeño MAYONNAISE
YIELD: 2½ CUPS

Bacon makes everything taste good. Once the tasty strips are cooked,
reserve the rendered fat for later use, such as this mayonnaise with a tangy
hit of pickled jalapeños. Strain bacon fat and store it in the refrigerator,
then let it return to room temperature, a liquid state, before using. This
mayonnaise keeps for at least a month in the refrigerator but it will
probably be used up long before that.

5 large egg yolks

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
7 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, divided
1½ cups rendered bacon fat, at room temperature
3 tablespoons finely diced pickled jalapeños
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Chill all of the ingredients and utensils down to about 40 degrees.

Don’t skip this step or the mayonnaise may break.

2. In the jar of an electric blender, combine the egg yolks, mustard,

and 1½ teaspoons of the lemon juice. Blend on high until totally
mixed, about 2 minutes.

3. Add the bacon fat in a slow stream, continuing to blend until the
mixture is thick. Blend in the remaining lemon juice, jalapeños, salt,
and pepper to taste. Adjust the seasonings according to taste. Scrape
into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
 ANCHO CHILE
Vinaigrette
YIELD: 2 CUPS

Use this lively vinaigrette to pop up the taste of lettuce on top of a taco or
as a dressing for a salad with oranges, avocados, and watercress. When
cooled and stored in a covered glass jar, the dressing will keep in your
refrigerator for 10 days to 2 weeks.Substitute chipotle chiles for a smoky
vinaigrette for a spinach salad.

1 cup blended oil

¾ cup rice vinegar
½ cup honey
¼ cup Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon rehydrated and pureed ancho chile
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1½ tablespoons minced red bell pepper
1 tablespoon minced red onion
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Fine sea salt to taste

1. In a glass bowl, stir the oil, vinegar, honey, mustard, ancho chile
puree, sesame oil, cilantro, lime juice, red bell pepper, onion, black
pepper, and salt to taste until blended.
2. Heat the dressing in the microwave on high until the mixture begins
to bubble, 1 to 1½ minutes.

3. Remove and whisk for 1 minute to emulsify the dressing. It should

thicken as it cools.

4. Cover and chill for 2 hours before serving.

 Cilantro CREMA
YIELD: 2½ CUPS

Cilantro crema is a lively, flavorful addition to dishes when plain sour

cream would be mundane. Crema is Mexican sour cream. If you can’t find
it, I think American sour cream thinned with heavy cream to a smoother
consistency is a good solution. Greek yogurt is the best substitute but you
can also use crème fraîche in most recipes. It’ll keep in the refrigerator for
3 days.

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon minced scallions, including green parts
1 teaspoon seeded and minced serrano chile
2 cups crema or sour cream thinned with a little cream
1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1. In the jar of an electric blender, combine the cilantro, scallions, and

serrano chile; puree until smooth.

2. Scrape into a bowl, fold in the crema and salt, cover, and
refrigerate until needed.

CHEF’S TIPS:
If you save trimmings and leftovers, use epazote stems in a stock or sauce to
impart a nice herbaceous flavor.
 Epazote CREMA
YIELD: 2 CUPS

Epazote is commonly used in Mexican cooking, especially in bean dishes,

as well as in mole and soups. It also makes a good tea for an upset
stomach. Its flavor is similar to that of oregano. If you can’t find it fresh,
substitute about half the amount of the dried herb. If you place it in a
covered bowl, this sauce will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator.

½ pound epazote, stems removed

1½ cups sour cream
¼ cup milk
1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. In a large bowl, combine the epazote with just enough boiling water
to cover. Mix well and let sit for 1 minute.

2. Drain and shock the epazote in ice water to set the color. Blot dry
and transfer to the jar of an electric blender along with the sour cream,
milk, and salt. Blend until smooth. The crema should be bright green.
Scrape into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
 APPLE-CRANBERRY
Salsita
YIELD: ABOUT 3½ CUPS

The fruity sweet and tangy flavors of this delectable salsita make it a perfect
condiment for rich meats such as duck or pork belly (page 212). Piloncillo
is unrefined Mexican dark brown sugar sold in solid cones with flattened
tops that resemble the tower-like pylons used to anchor above-ground
power lines. Sizes range from under an ounce to more than half a pound.
One six-ounce cone measures about 1 cup. While firmer in texture than
American brown sugar, the two can be used interchangeably, but piloncillo
should be chopped with a serrated knife before using.

5 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced

2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup chopped piloncillo or firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 cup dried cranberries
2 serrano chiles, sliced paper thin on a mandolin
¼ cup diced red onion
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
Fine sea salt

1. In a non-reactive pan, combine the apples, vinegar, and piloncillo

and simmer over medium heat until the apples begin to soften, 2 to 3
minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl to cool.

2. Add the dried cranberries to the liquid and simmer until they are
rehydrated and begin to soften. Transfer from the liquid to the bowl
with the apples and set aside to cool.

3. Over high heat, reduce the remaining liquid by half and set aside to
cool.

4. Gently combine the serrano chiles, onion, and cilantro with the
apples and cranberries. Toss in the cooled liquid with the lime juice
and season to taste with salt.
 GRILLED PEACH and
RED PEPPER Salsita
YIELD: ABOUT 2½ CUPS

This chunky, rustic salsita is a boon for pork, grilled skirt steak, and brisket
tacos.
Refrigerated, it will keep for at least 4 days.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ bunch finely chopped fresh basil (about ½ cup)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
2 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound firm but ripe peaches, halved and pitted
2 large red bell peppers, quartered, seeds and membranes
removed
1 habañero pepper, seeded
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1. Light a barbecue or position a broiler rack 8 inches from the heat

and preheat the the broiler.

2. In a small bowl, combine the oil, basil, mint, and garlic. Season to
tastewith salt and pepper. Lightly brush the cut side of the peaches
with half of the oil mixture. Grill or broil the peaches, cut side only,
until lightly browned, watching closely to avoid burning, 2 minutes.
Remove with tongs to a bowl and let cool.

3. Grill or broil the skin side of the peppers until charred and blistered,
about 8 minutes. Using tongs, remove to a bowl and cover with a
cloth. When cool, pull off the skin.

4. Cut the peaches and peppers into ½-inch pieces. Transfer to

medium bowl, add the vinegar and remaining oil mixture, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and toss gently to blend.
VEGETARIAN
Tacos
 GRILLED ASPARAGUS and
AVOCADO TACOS
YIELD: 12 TACOS

After a chilly spring in New York, as a chef I was dreaming of the great
produce of the season that had been slow to arrive. When I finally came
across some beautiful purple-tipped asparagus at the Union Square
Greenmarket, I almost cried. I really wanted to make a taco with them. In
Mexico asparagus is common in the markets, and everything eventually
becomes a taco! Rich, creamy California Hass avocados also make their
debut in spring and are a perfect complement to asparagus.
Although the result was not a traditional taco, it represents how I was
feeling—the Mediterranean flavors were inspired by a longing for the
warmth of the sun and the coming summer. Gently grilling asparagus and
avocado adds a light smoky flavor to them and gets you out of doors.

Refried White Beans [recipe follows]

Cucumber Pico de Gallo [recipe follows]
12 large asparagus spears, woody ends removed
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
Fine sea salt
2 ripe avocados, preferably Hass variety
12 corn tortillas, preferably handmade, warmed on the grill
¼ cup crumbled queso fresco

1. Prepare the Refried White Beans and Cucumber Pico de Gallo.

Light a grill or heat a grill pan until hot.

2. Drizzle the asparagus with oil and sprinkle with salt, turning to coat
evenly. Lay the asparagus on the grill and cook until small brown
spots form on the spears, turning several times to cook them evenly, 5
to 6 minutes total cooking time. Remove, cut them in half, and tent to
keep warm.

3. If space allows, prepare the avocados alongside the asparagus.

Using a sharp knife, cut the avocados in half lengthwise. To remove
the pit, cut deeply enough into it so you can turn the knife; the pit will
come loose. Peel the avocado halves, brush with a little oil, and grill
them, flesh-side down, until grill marks appear on the avocados and
they are warm, 2 to 5 minutes. Remove and cut each into six slices.

4. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of Refried White Beans into each

tortilla. Lay an asparagus spear on the white beans, add an avocado
slice, and garnish with about a teaspoon each of the Cucumber Pico
de Gallo and queso fresco. Pass extra beans and Pico de Gallo at the
table.
REFRIED WHITE BEANS
1 cup dried cannellini beans, rinsed and stones, dirt, and
shriveled beans discarded
2 serrano chiles, split
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium white onion, diced
½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
Fine sea salt
2 teaspoons lemon olive oil [see the sidebar]

CUCUMBER PICO DE GALLO

2 Kirby cucumbers, ends trimmed, peeled, and finely diced
2 Roma tomatoes, cored and finely diced
1 small red onion, finely diced
1 jalapeño pepper, finely chopped
1 serrano chile, finely chopped
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon olive oil [see the sidebar]
Fine sea salt

Refried White Beans

1. In a medium-sized pot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Add the
beans and serranos, reduce the water to a simmer, cover, and cook
until the beans are cooked through and creamy inside, approximately
1 hour and 45 minutes, skimming the foam from the top occasionally.
To test for doneness, taste three or four of the smaller beans.

2. Drain the beans and reserve the liquid. Remove the chiles if
desired. Using a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon, mash
the beans, along with some of the bean cooking liquid, until creamy
but not completely mashed.

3. In a medium-sized saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat.

Sauté the onion with the oregano and 1 teaspoon of salt until golden
brown, about 10 minutes. Add the mashed beans and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the liquid evaporates and the beans form a mass
that pulls away from the sides and bottom of the pan, about 10
minutes.

4. Transfer to the jar of an electric blender. With the motor running,

puree the beans while adding the lemon olive oil in a steady stream.
Season to taste with salt.

Cucumber Pico de Gallo

Combine the cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, jalapeño, and serrano with
the lime juice, oil, lemon oil, and salt to taste. Let stand for 30 minutes
before serving.
 LEMON OLIVE OIL
While you can buy bottles of lemon-scented olive oil, it’s easy enough to
make your own. Wash and thoroughly dry a large lemon. Remove only the
brightly colored yellow part of the skin and combine it with a cup of olive oil
in a small saucepan. Warm over medium heat, not even letting it simmer, for
about 10 minutes. Remove and cool, then strain the oil into a clean jar. Cover
and store in a cool dark place.
 AVOCADO Tacos BAJA-STYLE with
CITRUS-CUCUMBER Slaw
YIELD: 16 TACOS

I often sing the praises of avocados—especially the buttery Hass variety.

While frequently second fiddle and/or used as a garnish, except in
guacamole, here they star in these tempura-coated slices. Besides being
delicious, avocados are rich in nutrients and healthful fats. To keep them
from turning brown: Don’t cut the fruit until you’re ready to use it.

Citrus-Cucumber Slaw [recipe follows]

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus flour for dredging the avocado slices
1 cup cornstarch
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large eggs
Blended oil for frying
4 ripe avocados, preferably Hass variety, peeled and pitted
16 flour tortillas, warmed
Valentina or other hot sauce
4 limes, quartered, for garnish

1. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk the flour, cornstarch, baking

powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt together. In a separate mixing
bowl, whisk the eggs and 1⅓ cups of cold water together. Beat the dry
ingredients into the eggs. The batter will be a little lumpy.

2. Fill a large skillet with enough oil for deep-frying. You should be
able to submerge the avocado slices completely in oil in the pan. Heat
the oil to 375 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Halve the
avocados and slice each half lengthwise into four slices.

3. Lightly coat the avocado slices in a little flour and then dip them into
the tempura batter, letting the excess fall off. Using tongs, carefully
place the avocado slices into the hot oil and fry until golden. Remove,
drain on paper towels, and salt to taste.

4. Fill the tortillas and serve garnished with Citrus-Cucumber Slaw

and plenty of hot sauce and limes on the side.

CHEF’S TIPS:
If you don’t have a thermometer to gauge the oil’s temperature for deep-fat
frying, you can test when it’s ready by dropping a 1-inch cube of white bread
into the pan. At the right temperature, the oil should brown the bread in 60
seconds.
CITRUS-CUCUMBER SLAW
3 Kirby cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and cut into thin strips
3 Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into thin strips
1 small red onion, cut into thin strips
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
1 cup finely shredded white cabbage
¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves
½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon fine sea salt

Citrus-Cucumber Slaw
In a non-reactive bowl, combine the cucumbers, tomatoes, onion,
chile, cabbage, and cilantro. Blend the orange, grapefruit, and lime
juices together and pour over the vegetables. Add the salt, toss to
blend well, and set aside for 30 minutes.
 BLUE CHEESE, WALNUT,
and CABBAGE Tacos
YIELD: 10 TACOS

This autumnal or winter taco makes great party fare. The robust
Gorgonzola and walnuts perfectly complement sweet and tangy sautéed
cabbage. Serve with ice-cold dry sherry or one of the great boutique wines
from the Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico’s wine-making region.

½ head red cabbage, cored and julienned

½ white onion, minced
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
1 cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
½ tablespoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon prepared horseradish
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
1 teaspoon ground allspice
⅓ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
¼ cup chopped walnuts, toasted
10 corn tortillas, warmed

1. In a large saucepan, combine the cabbage, onion, jalapeño,

vinegar, sugar, mustard, salt, horseradish, canela, allspice, and ½ cup
of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook
until the cabbage is tender, about 1 hour. Remove the pan from the
heat, let the cabbage cool, and drain.

2. In a mixing bowl, combine the cabbage with the Gorgonzola and

walnuts and set aside. Spoon the mixture into the tortillas and serve.
 BUTTERNUT SQUASH
Cotija Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Roasted butternut squash and Cotija cheese are a delicious and savory
combination, especially when accented with fresh rosemary. I love them
with Grilled Nopales Salad (page 230) on the side.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 butternut squash, about 2 pounds, cut in half lengthwise and
seeded
2 sprigs rosemary
1 large shallot, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup crumbled Cotija cheese
12 corn tortillas, warmed
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. The night before, prepare the Grilled Nopales Salad, if using.

2. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

3. Lightly brush a jelly-roll pan and the insides of the squash halves
with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Put a rosemary sprig in each cavity, lay
the squash skin-side down in the pan, and roast until tender when
poked with a fork or knife, 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. Remove from
the oven, scoop out the flesh, and mash until chunky-smooth.

4. In a large skillet, heat the remaining oil over medium-high heat. Add
the shallot and garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the squash and
cheese; season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon into the tortillas
and serve.

VARIATIONS: Use 1 cup roasted or leftover cooked pumpkin or

yams. If desired, add black beans and epazote, or cilantro, sautéed
onions, and roasted bell peppers.
 COLLARD GREENS Tacos
with PICKLED APPLES and WALNUTS
YIELD: 12 TACOS

When days are cool, these hearty tacos of collard greens accented with
pickled apples and walnuts make a warming Sunday supper. Swiss chard or
kale make fine substitutions if you don’t find collard greens. Close your
eyes and be transported to the warmth of Mexico.

2 red apples, such as Gala

½ cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup sugar
2 jalapeños, split
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon pickling spice
½ cup walnut halves
¼ cup olive oil
1 pound collard greens
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
12 corn tortillas, warmed

1. Core and quarter the apples, then cut each quarter lengthwise into
⅛-inch-thick slices. In a non-reactive saucepan, stir the vinegar and
sugar together with 1 cup of water. Add the jalapeños, salt, and
pickling spice; boil until the sugar is dissolved. Stir in the apples and
return to a boil. Transfer to a heatproof bowl and cool. Chill,
uncovered, until cold, about 1 hour.

2. While the apples chill, prepare the nuts: In a small skillet over
medium heat, toast the walnuts in the oil until they’re one shade
darker, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and cool in the oil.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the nuts to a cutting board, reserving
the oil. Coarsely chop 1 tablespoon of the nuts and finely chop the
remaining nuts. Set aside. Reserve the oil.

3. With kitchen shears or a sharp knife, halve each collard leaf

lengthwise, cutting out and discarding the center ribs. Stack the
leaves and cut them crosswise into ¼-inch-wide strips. Transfer to a
large bowl.

4. In a deep skillet, heat the oil from the walnuts over medium-high
heat until hot. Add the collard greens and sauté until slightly cooked
but not wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the nuts and toss with ½
teaspoon of salt and pepper to taste. Add the apple slices, discarding
the pickling liquid and spices, and toss again. Spoon into the tortillas
and serve.
 Grilled WILD MUSHROOM
and KALE Tacos
YIELD: 8 TACOS

A huge variety of wild mushrooms grow in abundance in the mountains of

Mexico. In these tacos, wild mushrooms are grilled or sautéed and stirred
into smoky Chipotle Salsa. They are topped with olive-oil-crisped dark
green kale and creamy goat cheese. In these tacos, I only use olive oil
because blended oil will substantially take away from the flavor.For the
best flavor, use a bright, pungent green olive oil from the Northern Baja or
Spain.

1 cup Chipotle Salsa [page 35]

2¼ pounds mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons for the kale
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small bunch kale [about 8 ounces], stemmed and cut into
chiffonade
8 corn tortillas, warmed
½ cup crumbled goat cheese, seasoned with black pepper

1. Prepare the Chipotle Salsa and keep warm.

2. Heat a gas grill or large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. In a

large bowl, toss the mushrooms in the 2 tablespoons of oil, and grill or
sauté them in the skillet until just cooked through and browned.
Remove, cut into slices, season with salt and pepper, and spoon
Chipotle Salsa to taste on top of them.

3. In a large skillet, heat the remaining oil until hot. Add the kale and
cook until crisp, turning often. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Spoon the mushrooms onto the tortillas, garnish with the kale and
goat cheese, and serve.
 Huitlacoche and
MUSHROOM Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

In Mexico, the rare corn fungus known as huitlacoche is as highly prized as

truffles are in Europe. The kernels have a smoky-sweet flavor and are best
when bought fresh or frozen. I serve the tacos with Salsa Verde Cruda,
probably Mexico’s most popular sauce. Any extra salsa can be eaten with
tortilla chips or kept in the refrigerator for a day.

Salsa Verde Cruda [recipe follows]

2 teaspoons blended oil, divided
1 cup minced white onions
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 cup huitlacoche, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon ground chile de árbol
2½ cups sliced mushrooms, such as shiitake, cremini, or any
flavorful mushrooms
¼ cup chopped fresh epazote or cilantro
Fine sea salt
12 corn tortillas, warmed
6 ounces queso Oaxaca, Mexican string cheese, pulled into fine
strings
Crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche, for garnish

Salsa Verde Cruda

1¼ pounds tomatillos, husked, washed, and coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic
1 serrano chile, seeded, if desired
1 jalapeño chile, seeded, if desired
1 small white onion, coarsely chopped
¼ cup chopped cilantro
Fine sea salt

1. Make the Salsa Verde Cruda.

2. In a medium-sized skillet over high heat, add 1 teaspoon of oil and

the minced onions; sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the
garlic and continue to cook until it starts to brown, then add the
huitlacoche and chile and simmer until all of the liquid has evaporated,
about 5 minutes.

3. In a separate skillet over high heat, add the remaining oil and
mushrooms and sauté until nicely browned. Stir in the epazote, cook
for 1 minute, and season to taste with salt. Combine the mushrooms
and onions in one skillet and stir to blend.

4. Spoon the mixture into the tortillas, top with queso Oaxaca, spoon
on some Salsa Verde Cruda, drizzle with a little crema, and serve.

Salsa Verde Cruda

YIELD: ABOUT 3 CUPS

In a food processor, combine the tomatillos, garlic, serrano and

jalapeño chiles, onion, and cilantro; pulse until chunky-smooth. Pour
the salsa through a fine strainer, straining out most of the excess
liquid. Transfer to a container, season to taste with salt, and
refrigerate for up to 1 day.
 WILD MUSHROOM and
Nopales FILLED Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Creamy wild mushrooms (in whatever combination you like) blended with
grilled cactus paddles, or nopales, create a robust taco filling that’s both
earthy and indulgent. This filling is also great for an omelet. Be careful
when cleaning the Nopales, they can be quite prickly.

½ pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and wiped

½ pound cremini mushrooms, stemmed and wiped
½ pound oyster mushrooms, trimmed and wiped
¾ cup chopped white onion
¼ cup finely chopped jalapeños
2½ tablespoons finely chopped garlic
Fine sea salt
¾ cup blended oil or olive oil
2 ounces silver tequila, preferably Patrón, but not the cheap stuff
1 cup sour cream
½ cup heavy cream
2½ tablespoons cornstarch
½ pound nopales, grilled and finely diced
12 corn tortillas, warmed
Sliced cilantro leaves and chile de árbol powder, for garnish

1. Chop the mushrooms in two or four pieces depending on their size.

Combine the mushrooms, onion, jalapeños, garlic, and 1 to 2
teaspoons of salt.

2. In a very large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add the
mushrooms and sauté until all of the liquid has evaporated and they
are richly browned and crispy looking, 12 to 15 minutes, shaking the
pan often.

3. Pour in the tequila, carefully ignite, and cook until the liquid
evaporates. Stir in the sour cream.

4. In a saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a simmer, whisk in the

cornstarch, and return to a boil. Strain the cream over the mushrooms
and simmer for about 20 minutes. Stir in the nopales, remove from the
heat, and spoon into the tortillas. Garnish with a little cilantro and chile
de árbol powder and serve.
 SWEET POTATO and COLORADO
Bean Hash Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

This hearty blend of sweet potatoes, peppers, and kidney beans will satisfy
even the strongest appetites. It’s a great dish for dark winter days along
with a tossed green salad. Growing up, I knew red kidney beans as
Colorado beans, probably because the word colorado means “reddish” in
Spanish. Colorado is known for its red sandstone landscape, and perhaps
that’s where the name comes from.

2 tablespoons blended oil or olive oil or a combination of both

1 white onion, cut into medium dice
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into medium dice
1 poblano chile, seeded and cut into medium dice
2 serrano chiles, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 [8-ounce] undrained can red kidney beans
2 large sweet potatoes or yams, peeled and cut into large dice
2 Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into medium dice
Fine sea salt
16 corn tortillas, warmed
1 cup crumbled queso Menonita
1. In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over high heat. Add the onion
and sauté until it begins to caramelize. Stir in the garlic, bell and chile
peppers, cinnamon, coriander, and cumin; sauté until the peppers are
soft.

2. Add the beans and 1 cup of water. Bring the mixture to a simmer,
add the sweet potatoes and tomatoes, season with salt, and simmer
until the potatoes are fork-tender and the mixture is the consistency of
a thick stew.

3. Spoon the mixture into the tortillas, drizzle on a little queso

Menonita, and serve.
 ROASTED PEPPER and CHILE Tacos
POTOSINAS-STYLE with TOMATILLO Pasilla
de Oaxaca SALSA
YIELD: 12 TACOS

The filling for these tacos was adapted from the beloved empanadas sold in
the markets in the beautiful city of St. Luis Potosí in north-central Mexico.
It’s a colorful marriage of roasted sweet bell peppers and chiles along with
a couple of creamy and tangy cheeses.

Basic Tortilla Cilantro [page 26]

Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa [page 36]
2 tablespoons blended oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small white onion, finely chopped
2 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and julienned
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeds and membranes
removed, and cut into strips
1 yellow bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeds and membranes
removed, and cut into strips
4 ounces requesón or ricotta cheese
1 ounce queso Chihuahua or Monterey Jack cheese, grated
1 unpeeled red potato [about 3 ounces], cut into ¼-inch cubes
and fried until golden
2 tablespoons julienned fresh epazote, plus 1 tablespoon for
garnish
2 costeño chiles, toasted and crumbled
Fine sea salt
½ cup crumbled Cotija cheese, for garnish [optional]
½ cup crema, for garnish [optional]

1. Prepare the Basic Tortilla Cilantro.

2. Prepare the Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa.

3. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until hot. Add
the garlic and onion and sauté until the onion begins to color. Add the
poblanos, jalapeño, and red and yellow peppers, and sauté until limp.
Cool to room temperature. Transfer to a large bowl, stir in the
requesón and Chihuahua cheeses, the potato, 2 tablespoons epazote,
and the costeño chiles. Season to taste with salt.

4. Divide the filling among the tortillas. Spoon on some Tomatillo

Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa, sprinkle with Cotija cheese, and a little bit of
the remaining epazote, and drizzle on a little crema before serving.
 PLANTAIN GOAT CHEESE Gorditas with
ROASTED TOMATO Chile de árbol SALSA
YIELD: 12 GORDITAS

Vegetarians and meat lovers alike will savor these “fat little tacos,” or
gorditas, with sweet, salty, and spicy tastes encased in disks of plantain
“dough.” The masa cakes, like a tortilla, can be stuffed with just about
anything you like.

Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa [page 34]

4 very ripe [almost black] soft plantains [about 2¼ pounds total],
rinsed
2 tablespoons dry bread crumbs
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ cup crumbled goat cheese
Blended oil for frying
Habañero Pickled Red Onions [recipe follows]
Crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche, for garnish

HABAÑERO PICKLED RED ONIONS

2 large red onions, thinly sliced
1 small beet, peeled and quartered
1 habañero chile, cut in half
1 cup apple cider vinegar
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1. Prepare the Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the plantains and cook over
medium-high heat until the skins split and the plantains are very
tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a
plate and let them cool slightly. Peel, transfer to a bowl, and mash
well. Stir in the bread crumbs and salt and let cool.

3. Line a platter with plastic wrap. Form the plantain dough into 12
portions and roll into balls slightly smaller than a golf ball. Poke a hole
in the center of each ball and fill it with 1 teaspoon of the goat cheese.
Seal the holes and reroll the dough into balls. Using your hands, press
the balls into round disks about 3 inches in diameter. Set the gorditas
on the platter.

4. In a large saucepan, heat the oil to 350 degrees. Add the gorditas
one after the other and fry until browned all over, about 5 minutes.
Drain on a paper-towel-lined plate. Serve the gorditas with the
Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa, Habañero Pickled Red Onions,
and crema.

Habañero Pickled Red Onions

YIELD: 3 CUPS

In a medium-sized non-reactive pan, combine the onions, beet, chile,

vinegar, bay leaves, salt, and 1 cup of water; bring to a boil over
medium heat. Remove from the heat and refrigerate for at least 1 hour
or preferably overnight prior to using.
 POTATO LATKE Tacos
with Canela APPLESAUCE
YIELD: 12-14 LATKES

If you like the matzo tacos served with higaditos (aka chopped liver) on
page 160, here’s another recipe that celebrates a favorite Hanukkah dish:
potato latkes, or pancakes, formed into tacos and served with applesauce
and crema.

Canela Applesauce [recipe follows]

1 medium white onion
3 pounds Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
2 jalapeños
1¼ cups matzo meal
3 large eggs
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Blended oil for frying
6 limes, cut into quarter wedges
Crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche, for garnish
Freshly chopped chives, for garnish

1. Prepare the Canela Applesauce.

2. In a food processor, pulse the onion into small dice. Add the
potatoes and jalapeños and pulse until the mixture is blended but not
a smooth puree, with some pieces slightly smaller than a pea.
Remove and squeeze dry with towels.

3. In a bowl, combine the matzo meal, eggs, salt, and pepper. Fold in
the potato-onion mixture until blended.

4. In a large skillet, pour in enough oil to cover the bottom and heat
over medium-high heat until hot and shimmering. Using a 2-ounce
ladle or ¼-cup measure, pour the batter into the pan. Cook until the
undersides are golden brown, about 3 minutes, then turn and cook the
other side until golden and cooked through, about 2 more minutes.
Remove and, using two lime wedges on either side for support, fold
the sides of the latke up to resemble a taco shell.

5. Fill each taco with 2 tablespoons Canela Applesauce and 1

teaspoon crema. Garnish with chives and serve. Pass the extra
applesauce at the table.

CANELA APPLESAUCE
3 pounds Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ¾-
inch pieces
⅓ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
2½ tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
Pinch of fine sea salt

Canela Applesauce
1. In a heavy medium-sized saucepan, combine the apples and brown
sugar with 1 cup of water and bring to boil, stirring occasionally.
Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the apples are very tender,
about 25 minutes. Uncover and simmer until almost all the liquid has
evaporated, about 6 minutes.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice, vanilla,
and cinnamon. Add the salt and cool for 30 minutes. Using a fork,
mash the apple mixture until it is coarse and chunky.
 PURSLANE Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

I really like purslane. Its slightly crunchy, somewhat lemony-tasting leaves,

also known as verdolagas, are frequently found at farmers’ markets in
Mexico. (It’s also common in backyards in the United States, where it’s
often thought of as a weed.) High in vitamin E, these leaves are similar to
watercress or spinach and are used interchangeably. Besides being sautéed
or steamed to fill these tacos or as a side dish, young purslane can be
stewed with meat or poultry, or used in salads and to top sandwiches.

1 pound fresh purslane

1 tablespoon blended oil
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh garlic
2-3 medium Roma tomatoes, depending on size, cored and
chopped
1 serrano chile, finely chopped
2-3 tablespoons Maggi sauce
12 corn tortillas, warmed

1. Set aside a few raw sprigs of purslane for garnish. Steam or blanch
the rest until crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain thoroughly, transfer to
a plate covered with several layers of paper towels, and blot dry.

2. In a large pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion
and garlic and sauté until soft. Stir in the tomatoes and chile and sauté
until the mixture resembles a sauce. Season with Maggi and continue
to cook until the mixture is warm and the flavors blend. Spoon into the
tortillas and serve the tacos garnished with the remaining sprigs of
purslane.
 SPINACH á la
GALLEGA Tacos
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Galician-style spinach traditionally made with currants and pine nuts is

among our most popular side dishes and seemed a natural for vegetarian
tacos. Here I added crumbled goat cheese and Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca
Salsa to the tasty mixture. For brunch, you might serve these alongside
scrambled eggs.

Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa [page 36]

2½ pounds baby spinach
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
2 small white onions or 6 green onions, including green parts,
minced
¼ cup currants, plumped in hot water and drained
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
8 corn tortillas, warmed
½ cup crumbled goat cheese

1. Prepare the Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa.

2. Rinse the spinach well and remove the stems. Put it in a large
skillet pan with only the water clinging to the leaves. Cook over
medium heat, turning as needed until wilted, just a few minutes. Drain
well and set aside.

3. Add the oil to the now-empty pan and set over medium heat. Add
the onions and sauté until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the spinach,
currants, and pine nuts and sauté briefly to warm through. Season to
taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the spinach onto the tortillas, drizzle
with goat cheese and some Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa, and
serve warm or at room temperature.
 Grilled SWEET POTATO Tacos
with ancho GLAZE and SPICY BLACK BEANS
YIELD: 8 TACOS

I am always looking for good fuel for running. Sweet potatoes have a ton of
nutrients and are filling without being heavy. The Ancho-Maple Glaze adds
a taste of fall.Add scrambled eggs for a healthy breakfast taco.

2 medium sweet potatoes [about 1 pound]

Vegetable oil to brush the grill, plus 1-2 teaspoons for the beans
1 cup rinsed and drained canned black beans
1 habañero chile
Ancho-Maple Glaze [recipe follows]
8 blue corn tortillas, warmed
2 cups grated cheese, such Cotija or queso fresco
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup olive oil, plus oil to brush griddle
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder

ANCHO-MAPLE GLAZE
½ cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1. In a large pot, bring enough lightly salted water to cover the

potatoes to a boil. Add the potatoes, cover, and cook until just tender
on the outside when pricked with the tip of a knife, about 12 minutes.
Drain and, when cool enough to handle, peel and cut into ¼-inch-thick
round slices.

2. Heat a grill or grill pan over high heat until hot. Brush with a little oil.
Lay the potato slices on the grill and cook just until marked by the grill
on both sides, turning once. Remove and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, in a food processor, puree the black beans and

habañero with a little oil until almost smooth. Prepare the Ancho-
Maple Glaze.

4. Heat a griddle or heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

5. For each tortilla, spoon about ¼ cup of beans over half of the
tortilla, then top with ¼ cup of cheese and three slices of sweet
potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. Fold each in half into a semicircle. Brush on a little oil and sprinkle
with a little ancho chile powder. Griddle for 6 minutes or until crisp.
Serve two per person and drizzle with Ancho-Maple Glaze.

Ancho-Maple Glaze
In a small bowl, stir together the maple syrup, mustard, and chile
powder. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
 SWISS CHARD, BEET,
and GOAT CHEESE Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Beets are one of those love ’em or hate ’em foods. I’m in the first group,
which is good because they are widely used in Mexican cuisine. I especially
love their earthy-sweet taste when oven-roasted. Stir them together with
tangy goat cheese and sautéed Swiss chard, and the combination makes an
amazing vegetarian taco when drizzled with Spicy Mint Crema. Beets stain
everything, so wear gloves.

8 medium beets, trimmed

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus oil to brush the beets
Spicy Mint Crema [recipe follows]
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 white onion, finely diced
2 bunches red Swiss chard, coarse stems removed and chopped
2 cups crumbled goat cheese
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano, preferably Mexican
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 corn tortillas, warmed

SPICY MINT CREMA

8 ounces crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup coarsely chopped mint leaves
¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro
¼ cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves
2 cloves garlic
2 serrano chiles, seeded
Fine sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Brush the beets with a little oil,
wrap tightly in aluminum foil, and roast until tender, from 40 minutes
up to an hour or more, depending on the size. Check every 15
minutes until a knife tip can be easily inserted. Remove, cool, remove
the skin, and cut into small cubes. Set aside.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the Spicy Mint Crema.

3. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add

the garlic and onion, partially cover, and sweat for 3 minutes. Add the
Swiss chard and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until
the leaves are tender. Remove the pan from the heat, cool, and mix
the chard with the beets, goat cheese, and oregano. Season to taste
with salt and pepper.

4. Spoon the filling into the tortillas, drizzle with Spicy Mint Crema, and
serve.

Spicy Mint Crema

In the jar of an electric blender, combine the crema, lemon juice, mint,
cilantro, parsley, garlic, and serranos; blend well. Season to taste with
salt.
 Fried GREEN TOMATILLO Tacos with
GREEN OLIVES and Chipotle RÉMOULADE
YIELD: 12 TACOS

My mom is from the South, and I love southern food. I always find a way to
work it into my repertoire just for fun. If you’re a fan of fried green
tomatoes, I think you’ll find battered and fried tangy tomatillos a new way
to enjoy them, especially when garnished with green olives, watercress,
and smoky-creamy Chipotle Rémoulade.

Chipotle Rémoulade [recipe follows]

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Tecate or other Mexican beer, at room temperature
2 pounds tomatillos, peeled, washed, cut into ¼-inch slices, and
patted dry with paper towels
1 lime, cut in half crosswise
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
12 corn tortillas, warmed
1½ cups watercress, coarse stems removed
8 ounces green olives, sliced
8 ounces queso fresco, sliced
Lime wedges
Bottled hot pepper sauce, such as Cholula

CHIPOTLE RÉMOULADE
¼ cup mayonnaise, not light variety
¼ cup chipotles en adobo, finely diced
¼ cup crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Prepare the Chipotle Rémoulade.

2. In a bowl, whisk the flour, salt, and pepper together. Pour in the
beer, whisking until the batter is smooth, and let it stand for 15
minutes.

3. Sprinkle the tomatillos with salt and pepper and squeeze on some
lime juice. Let them stand for 15 minutes.

4. Heat the oven to 200 degrees. Line a baking sheet with paper
towels.

5. In a medium-sized skillet, pour in enough oil to measure 2 inches

deep. Attach a deep-fry thermometer and heat the oil to 350 degrees.
Working in batches, dip the tomatillos into the batter, slide them into
the oil, and fry until golden, about 4 minutes. Using a metal spatula,
transfer the tomatillos to the baking sheet and keep warm in the oven.
Repeat with the remaining tomatillos.

6. Fill each tortilla with two slices of tomatillo. Spoon on the Chipotle
Rémoulade, some watercress, green olives, queso fresco, a squeeze
of lime, and a dash of hot pepper sauce and serve.

Chipotle Rémoulade
In a bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, chipotles, crema, and
tarragon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
 Grilled SUMMER
VEGETABLE Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Mexicans have a long-standing tradition of grilling outside, especially

since many older rural houses don’t have a kitchen. For these tasty
vegetable tacos, I make my own version of chimichurri—the Argentine
marinade typically used on steaks, which includes a little Maggi sauce and
a bright red chile de árbol—which is brushed and brush it onto the
vegetables as they are grilled or roasted in the oven. The chimichurri sauce
is very popular in Mexico as well. The recipe is very flexible: Change the
vegetables to suit your own taste. If your grill has wide-spaced grates, you
can prevent the pieces from falling into the fire by cutting the vegetables
into large pieces; after cooking, cut them into smaller cubes.

Maggi Chimichurri Sauce [recipe follows]

½ cup Pico de Gallo [page 39]
2 chayotes, cut into medium-sized cubes
2 red onions, cut in eighths
2 poblano chiles, seeded and cut into medium-sized cubes
2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into medium-sized cubes
2 medium zucchini, trimmed and cut into medium-sized cubes
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups shredded romaine lettuce
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ tablespoon red wine vinegar
8 corn tortillas, warmed
½ cup crumbled queso fresco

1. Prepare the Maggi Chimichurri Sauce and Pico de Gallo. Heat a

grill or preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

2. Toss the vegetables with a little of the Maggi Chimichurri Sauce,

turning to coat evenly. Lay them on the grill and cook until tender and
nicely browned, about 15 minutes, turning every 10 minutes. Or
transfer them to a large roasting pan and roast in the oven until
tender, turning every 10 minutes.

3. Remove, spoon a generous tablespoon of the Chimichurri Sauce

over the vegetables, season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss.

4. While the vegetables roast, toss the romaine with the oil and
vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Spoon the vegetables into the tortillas, top with romaine and queso
fresco, and finish with a spoonful of Pico de Gallo. Pass extra Maggi
Chimichurri Sauce at the table.
Maggi Chimichurri Sauce
1 cup blended oil [see the introduction], divided
2 tablespoons minced garlic
½ chile de árbol, crushed
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon Maggi sauce
¼ tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
Fine sea salt
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, cut into chiffonade

Maggi Chimichurri Sauce

In a skillet, heat a tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat and
sauté the garlic and chile together until light golden brown. Add the
vinegar, lime juice, Maggi, and oregano; simmer for 10 minutes to
combine the flavors. Add salt, if needed. Remove, cool, and stir in the
parsley.
 Smoke-Roasted
ROOT VEGETABLE Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

If you have a chimney or smoker, these roasted root vegetables make a

comforting yet sophisticated taco filling. Enjoy them with friends over a
nice cold porter or dark toasted lager. Alternatively, you can oven-roast or
grill root vegetables until nicely caramelized and use them in tacos.

2 large carrots, cut into 2-inch chunks

2 medium unpeeled russet potatoes, cut into 2-inch chunks
2 medium unpeeled rutabagas, cut into 2-inch chunks
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa [page 34]
12 corn tortillas, warmed
¾ cup crumbled Cotija cheese
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1. Toss the carrots, potatoes, and rutabagas with the oil and season
with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to an 8 × 12-inch piece of
heavy-duty aluminum foil or a disposable aluminum pan.

2. Fill a charcoal chimney with briquettes, set the chimney on the

bottom grill grate, and light. Or prepare a fire in your smoker. For a
gas grill, turn half the burners to medium.

3. When the coals are ready, dump them into the bottom of your grill
and spread them evenly across half. Scatter wood chips on the hot
coals or place them in a metal container as close as possible to a
burner on a gas grill. Place the vegetables on the indirect-heat side
and close the lid. Smoke at 350 degrees until the potatoes are tender
and the vegetables have a good, smoky aroma, 45 to 60 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, prepare the Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa.

5. When the vegetables are cooked, drizzle on the remaining oil, and
divide the mixture among the tortillas. Add a little Cotija cheese and
parsley along with a spoonful of Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa
to each taco and serve.
 ZUCCHINI, BLACK BEAN,
and CORN TACOS with Salsa Verde
YIELD: 16 TACOS

This very Mexican blend of zucchini, black beans, and corn is another
popular Dos Caminos side dish that makes a terrific vegetarian taco filling
with queso fresco and Salsa Verde added.Pile it cold on top of shredded
lettuce for a healthy summer salad.

Salsa Verde [page 33]

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large white onion, chopped
4 medium zucchini, trimmed and diced
2 Thai chiles, seeds removed, if desired, and very thinly sliced
1 poblano chile, diced
2 cups canned black beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup corn kernels
1 teaspoon Maggi sauce
Fine sea salt
16 corn tortillas, warmed
1 cup crumbled queso fresco

1. Prepare the Salsa Verde.

2. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic
and onion and sauté until translucent, stirring frequently. Add the
zucchini, Thai chiles, and poblano pepper and sauté until just tender
but still slightly crisp.

3. Stir in the beans, corn, and Maggi sauce; heat through. Season to
taste with salt.

4. Spoon the mixture into the tortillas, drizzle on queso fresco and
Salsa Verde, and serve.
FISH AND SEAFOOD
Tacos
 Salt-Crusted ROASTED SALMON Tacos
with BLACK, BEAN, CORN, and MANGO SALSA
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Baking salmon in a salt crust, as you’ll do with the fillets in these tacos, is
a technique I grabbed while traveling in Turkey. This ensures fish that is
moist and flavorful but not salty. It’s perfectly partnered with colorful
Black Bean, Corn, and Mango Salsa. The tacos are served in tortillas and
accompanied by an arugula salad tossed with a sprightly Lime Cumin
Vinaigrette. Enjoy with spiked cider or a dry chenin blanc from Baja.

Black Bean, Corn, and Mango Salsa [recipe follows]

Lime Cumin Crème Fraîche [recipe follows]
Lime Cumin Vinaigrette [recipe follows]
8 corn tortillas
8 (3-ounce) pieces skinless salmon fillets
4-6 cups kosher or coarse sea salt
¼ cup cilantro leaves
1½ cups baby arugula
2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds
6 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
8 lime wedges

1. Prepare the Black Bean, Corn, and Mango Salsa, Lime Cumin
Crème Fraîche, and Lime Cumin Vinaigrette. Set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

3. In a flat pan large enough to hold the salmon fillets in a single layer,
spread half of the salt over the bottom. Arrange the salmon on top of
the salt and cover with the remaining salt, packing it firmly on the fish.
Bake for about 8 minutes. The salmon should be pink and moist in the
center. Test by inserting a knife tip through the salt and into a piece of
fish to check. Remove the salmon from the oven and cool slightly.

4. Using a spatula, lift off the salt crust. Break up the salmon with your
fingers and place it in a bowl. Drizzle with a little vinaigrette. Add the
cilantro leaves.

5. On each dinner plate, put a tortilla. Top with ⅓ cup Black Bean,
Corn, and Mango Salsa, then divide the salmon among the tortillas.

6. In a bowl, lightly dress the arugula with the remaining vinaigrette.

Add the sesame seeds and toss. Place a small mound of greens on
each tortilla and sprinkle with goat cheese. Drizzle with the Lime
Cumin Crème Fraîche, add a lime wedge, and serve. Pass extra salsa
at the table.
BLACK BEAN, CORN, AND MANGO SALSA
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 green onions, including most of the green parts, chopped
1 small red onion, diced
1 small red bell pepper, seeds and membranes removed and
diced
1 cup corn kernels
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon soy sauce
2 cups cooked or canned black beans, rinsed well and drained
1 small mango, peeled and diced [see the sidebar on page 31]
4 fresh basil leaves, cut in chiffonade
¼ cup chopped cilantro
3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

LIME CUMIN CRÈME FRAÎCHE

½ cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon grated lime zest
½ teaspoon ground cumin
Fine sea salt

LIME CUMIN VINAIGRETTE

¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
½ teaspoon ground cumin
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Black Bean, Corn, and Mango Salsa

1. In a large shallow skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add
the garlic, green and red onions, bell pepper, corn, lemon juice,
cumin, cardamom, and soy.
2. When the vegetables are tender, stir in the black beans, mango,
basil, and cilantro; remove from the heat. Add the olive oil and cool.
Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Lime Cumin Crème Fraîche

In a small bowl, stir the crème fraîche, lime juice and zest, and cumin
together. Season to taste with salt and use immediately.

Lime Cumin Vinaigrette

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, lime juice, cumin, salt, and
pepper to taste, mixing well. Whisk in the oil until emulsified. Set
aside.
 BAJA-STYLE FISH Tacos
with WHITE SAUCE
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Just south of the California border, in Baja, I discovered countless different

kinds of fried cod tacos and I never tired of eating them. Often they’re
topped with seasoned mayonnaise or what is called “white sauce” in
Mexico. This version is typical of those found at numerous street stands in
Mexico. Most often they’re prepared with shark, but any firm white-fleshed
fish will work.
Cornstarch in the batter helps it adhere to the fish. Garlic salt is a
commonly used seasoning in Mexico. Other familiar garnishes you might
use include shredded lettuce, julienned radishes, and thinly sliced chiles.
You might also serve these with pickled jalapeños.

1 cup mayonnaise, not light variety

¼ cup milk
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon garlic salt
Blended oil for frying
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup cornstarch
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 cup ice-cold Mexican beer, such as Tecate
8 flour or corn tortillas, warmed
1½ pounds boneless cod, cut into 2-inch pieces and patted dry
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups finely shredded white cabbage
2 limes, cut into wedges

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, milk, lemon juice,

and garlic salt. Set aside.

2. Preheat a deep-fat fryer or deep pot filled halfway with oil until the
oil measures 375 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.

3. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, sift the flour, cornstarch, and garlic

powder together; whisk in the beer. Warm the tortillas.

4. Season the fish pieces with salt and dip into the batter, letting any
excess drip back into the bowl. Add to the hot oil, taking care not to
crowd them, and cook until golden brown and cooked through, about
3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

5. For each tortilla, put on a piece of fish, drizzle with white sauce, top
with a little shredded cabbage, and squeeze on lime juice to taste.
 Grilled MAHIMAHI Tacos, Baja-Style,
with PINEAPPLE Habañero HOT SAUCE
YIELD: 8 TACOS

While Baja is famous for beer-battered fried fish tacos, an equally delicious
and lighter version can be made by grilling the firm-fleshed, mild-tasting
mahimahi and serving it on tortillas. What makes this dish so appealing is
the contrast of textures and tastes: the crunchy Citrus-Cucumber Slaw,
creamy Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli, warm tortillas, and smoky grilled fish.
Other fish suitable for these tacos include red snapper and hake, a super-
inexpensive and, I believe, underrated option. If you prefer traditional
deep-fried tacos, see the recipe on page 111.

Citrus-Cucumber Slaw [page 63]

Charred Pineapple Habañero Hot Sauce [recipe follows]
Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli [recipe follows], for drizzling
8 (3-ounce) mahimahi fillets, blotted dry
2 tablespoons blended oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 corn tortillas
4 limes, quartered

CHARRED PINEAPPLE HABAÑERO HOT SAUCE

2-3 [½-inch-thick] slices fresh pineapple, cored
1 teaspoon blended oil, plus oil to brush the pineapple slices
1 small white onion, coarsely chopped
½ cup shredded pineapple in pineapple juice
1 habañero chile, chopped
¼ cup rice vinegar
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Make the Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, Charred Pineapple Habañero Hot

Sauce, and Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli.

2. Preheat a grill or a grill pan.

3. Brush the fillets with oil and season with salt and pepper. Lay them
on the grill and cook until the flesh is charred, 3 to 4 minutes per side,
turning once.

4. Quickly warm the tortillas on the grill. Cut each piece of fish in half
after it’s grilled. Place a piece of fish on each tortilla, garnish with a
little of the Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, and drizzle each taco with a
tablespoon of the Pineapple Habañero Hot Sauce.

5. Fold the tortillas in half. Place two tacos on each plate, liberally
drizzle with Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli, and serve warm with lime
quarters.

Charred Pineapple Habañero Hot Sauce

Heat a grill to very hot. Lightly brush the pineapple with a little oil and
grill for 2 minutes, turning once. Remove, cool, and cut into fine cubes.
In a small saucepan, heat the teaspoon of oil over medium heat. Stir
in the onion and cook until translucent. Add the shredded pineapple,
habañero, and vinegar and cook for 4 minutes to blend the flavors.
Transfer to the jar of an electric blender and puree until smooth.
Scrape into a bowl, add the diced pineapple, season to taste with salt
and pepper, and set aside.
ROASTED JALAPEÑO LIME AIOLI
6 jalapeño peppers
2 cups mayonnaise, not light variety
Zest of 2 large limes
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli

Roast the jalapeños on a hot grill until the skins are browned and
blistered, 6 to 8 minutes, then seed and dice them. In a bowl, whisk
the jalapeños, mayonnaise, lime zest, and lime juice together. Season
to taste with salt and pepper. Use liberally.
 BEER-BATTERED
Fried Fish
YIELD: 8 TACOS

If you still crave the crispiness of fried fish rather than the grilled, here’s a
recipe for making it with mahimahi. It has all the same toppings as the
grilled version, so you could grill some fish and fry some fish, and let
everyone pick and choose.

Citrus-Cucumber Slaw [page 63]

Charred Pineapple Habanero Hot Sauce [page 102]
Roasted Jalapeno Lime Aioli [recipe follows], for drizzling
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 large egg
1 [12-ounce] can Tecate or other light beer, preferably Mexican,
very cold
Blended oil for frying
2 pounds mahimahi steaks, cut into 4-inch-wide strips
8 corn tortillas
4 limes, quartered

1. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine the flour, chile powder,

salt, and baking powder; mix. In another bowl, beat the egg until
smooth and then stir in the beer.
2. Whisk the dry ingredients into the liquids, stirring until smooth.

3. Meanwhile, in a large, deep skillet, pour in enough oil to measure 1

inch deep. Heat the oil over high heat until hot, about 350 degrees on
an instant-read thermometer.

4. Dip the pieces of fish into the batter, letting the excess fall back into
the bowl, and fry until golden brown, about 4 minutes; turn and cook
the second side for the same amount of time. Remove the fish with a
spatula or slotted spoon, and blot on paper towels to remove excess
oil.

5. Divide the fish among the tortillas. For each taco, garnish with a
little of the Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, and drizzle each taco with a
tablespoon of the Pineapple Habañero Hot Sauce.

6. Fold the tortillas in half. Place two tacos on each plate, liberally
drizzle with Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli, and serve warm with lime
quarters.
 BAJA-STYLE COD Tacos
with ROASTED TOMATO Rémoulade
YIELD: 8 TACOS

These crispy cod finger tacos topped with Guacamole, Red Cabbage
Fennel Apple Slaw, and smoky Roasted Tomato Rémoulade are
synonymous with Baja cuisine. Shark is typically the fish of choice for
tacos. It’s plentiful in all the fish market stalls in Ensenada, for example.
I’m sure you’ll use this rémoulade on many tacos and the cabbage slaw is a
favorite accompaniment for dishes like tacos and burritos, as well as
almost any sandwich. This colorful blend is far more appealing than the
routine version that often gets pushed to the side of the plate.
The sauce, slaw, and prep for the Guacamole may all be done several
hours ahead, but mash the avocados just before serving. Although I think
beer in the batter makes delicious tacos, you can substitute club soda with
a little Old Bay seasoning added to bump up the taste.

Roasted Tomato Rémoulade [recipe follows]

Red Cabbage Fennel Apple Slaw [recipe follows]
Guacamole [page 44]
2 [12-ounce] cans Tecate beer
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Blended oil for deep-frying
8 flour tortillas
8 [2-ounce] pieces cod, about 3 × 1 × 1 inches each, patted dry
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the Roasted Tomato Rémoulade, Red Cabbage Fennel
Apple Slaw, and Guacamole.

2. In a large bowl, stir the beer, flour, and salt together until smooth.

3. In a deep skillet, pour in enough oil to measure about 2 inches

deep and heat over high heat until the oil measures 375 degrees on
an instant-read thermometer.

4. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Wrap the tortillas in a clean towel or
aluminum foil and heat until warm, about 5 minutes.

5. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Dip the cod into the batter,
letting extra batter run off, and add them to the oil, taking care not to
crowd the pieces. Cook until golden brown and crispy all over, about 4
minutes, turning if needed. Using a slotted spoon, remove the fish to
paper towels to drain. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. On each tortilla, spread a tablespoon of Guacamole, topping this

with a piece of fish and about ¼ cup of slaw. Drizzle with Roasted
Tomato Rémoulade and serve with refried beans and red rice, if
desired. Pass extra rémoulade at the table.

ROASTED TOMATO RÉMOULADE

2 Roma tomatoes, split lengthwise
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon rice vinegar
½ cup blended oil
1 teaspoon smoked hot paprika, such as Pimentón de la Vera
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
RED CABBAGE FENNEL APPLE SLAW
1 serrano chile, seeded and very thinly sliced
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and julienned
1 small fennel bulb, trimmed, cored, and julienned
1 small carrot, julienned
½ small head red cabbage, cored and julienned
½ small red onion, julienned
¼ cup thinly sliced cilantro
3 ounces white vinegar
¼ cup mayonnaise, not light variety
½ tablespoon sugar
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Roasted Tomato Rémoulade

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

2. Roast the tomatoes on a sheet pan, cut-side down, for 12 minutes,

or until dry. Coarsely chop and set aside.

3. In a food processor, combine the egg yolk, lemon juice, mustard,

and vinegar; process for 1 minute. With the motor running, slowly
drizzle in the oil, beginning with a drop at a time and gradually
increasing the flow as the mixture emulsifies. Add the tomatoes,
paprika, and tarragon and pulse until combined but not completely
smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Scrape into a bowl and
set aside. If made several hours ahead, refrigerate until serving.

Red Cabbage Fennel Apple Slaw

YIELD: 8 GENEROUS SERVINGS

In a large bowl, combine the chile, apple, fennel, carrot, cabbage,

onion, cilantro, vinegar, mayonnaise, and sugar; mix well. Season to
taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until served.
 GRILLED RED SNAPPER TACOS
Yucatán-Style
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Mexico’s Yucatán was once isolated from the rest of the country by rough
terrain and poor roads. As a result, Yucatecan cooking absorbed flavors
from the Europeans, Cubans, and people of New Orleans who came
through the ports. Fresh seafood is plentiful in the region. In these tacos,
along with the fresh citrus juices, the marinade includes achiote, a paste of
Mayan origins that turns foods bright yellow-orange from ground annatto
seeds mixed with garlic, vinegar, spices like cinnamon and allspice, and
salt.

Mango Avocado Slaw [recipe follows]

White Salsa [recipe follows]
3 tablespoons achiote paste
½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds red snapper fillets
8 corn tortillas
½ small head red cabbage, shredded
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh cilantro
Lime wedges, for garnish
1. Prepare the Mango Avocado Slaw and White Salsa.

2. Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium heat.

3. In a small bowl, break the achiote paste into small pieces, then
whisk it together with the citrus juices, olive oil, garlic, and salt and
pepper. Brush on both sides of the fish and season with salt and
pepper.

4. Grill the fish until golden brown and just cooked through, about 4
minutes per side. Remove from the grill, let rest 5 minutes, and flake
into large pieces with a fork.

5. Place about 3 ounces of fish into a corn tortilla and garnish with
cabbage, cilantro, Mango Avocado Slaw, and a drizzle of White Salsa.
Serve with lime wedges on the side. Pass extra salsa at the table.
MANGO AVOCADO SLAW
2 ripe avocados, preferably Hass variety, peeled, pitted, and
diced
1 firm, ripe mango, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced
½ small red onion, finely sliced
3 serrano chiles, finely sliced
Juice of 2 limes
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon agave syrup
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup cilantro leaves, cut in chiffonade

WHITE SALSA
4 ripe Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 cloves garlic, finely diced
2 serrano chiles, finely diced
½ small red onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
Fine sea salt

Mango Avocado Slaw

Combine the avocados, mango, onion, chiles, lime juice, oil, agave,
and salt and pepper in a medium serving bowl. Before serving, add
the cilantro and toss to blend.
White Salsa
In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, garlic, chiles, and onion. In
a separate bowl, whisk together the yogurt, oil, vinegar, and salt to
taste. Combine the tomato mixture with the dressing.
 LIME-MARINATED TUNA Tacos with PAPAYA,
MUSTARD, and ROSEMARY SALSA
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Diced papaya and red onion tossed with lime juice and mustard are a sexy
accent for briefly sautéed tuna, tomatoes, and onions in these tacos.
Papayas’ intense perfume and luscious, sweet orange-hued flesh reputedly
led Christopher Columbus to call them the “fruit of the angels.” Most
varieties weigh about a pound. The peppery-tasting black seeds inside are
edible.

Papaya, Mustard, and Rosemary Salsa [recipe follows]

8 flour tortillas
1 pound yellowfin tuna
1 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon blended oil
4 Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and julienned
1 small red onion, diced
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

PAPAYA, MUSTARD, AND ROSEMARY SALSA

1 large ripe papaya [about 1 pound], peeled, seeded, and cut into
½-inch dice
1 small red onion, diced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary, minced

1. Prepare the Papaya, Mustard, and Rosemary Salsa.

2. Cut the tuna into ½-inch cubes and transfer to a non-reactive bowl.
Pour on the lime juice, mix, and marinate for no longer than 15
minutes. Drain the liquid and reserve.

3. Meanwhile, warm the tortillas and place them in a folded napkin or

towel to keep warm.

4. In a large saucepan, heat the oil over high heat until hot. Add the
tuna and stir just to coat. Add the tomatoes and onion; season with
salt and pepper. Pour in the reserved lime juice, add the cilantro, turn
off the heat, and let the pan sit for a couple of seconds until the fish is
cooked to the desired temperature. (It will cook very quickly.) Spoon
the mixture onto the warm tortillas, top with Papaya, Mustard, and
Rosemary Salsa, and serve.

Papaya, Mustard, and Rosemary Salsa

In a bowl, stir the papaya, onion, mustard, lime juice, and rosemary
together. Cover and refrigerate for at least half an hour.
 TUNA Tacos with LIME AIOLI
and HONEYDEW JICAMA SLAW
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Bright summer flavors fill in these grilled tuna tacos. The fish is topped
with Honeydew Jicama Slaw and balanced with mildly peppery watercress
in a Lime Aioli. Once the toppings are made—a day before, if you like—the
final assembly is very easy and quick.
Jicama, also known as a “Mexican potato,” is a crunchy tuber that sort of
crosses a potato with an apple is more of a textured carrier of other
flavors. Generally, it’s served raw and crunchy.

Honeydew Jicama Slaw [recipe follows]

2 jalapeños, roasted and seeded
Finely grated zest of 2 limes
2 cups mayonnaise, not light variety
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup watercress, thick stems removed
16 flour tortillas
2 pounds sushi-grade tuna, cut into 16 [2-ounce] portions
Blended oil

HONEYDEW JICAMA SLAW

1½ cups peeled and julienned honeydew melon
1½ cups peeled and julienned jicama
4 jalapeños, seeded and julienned
Zest of 2 lemons
1 tablespoon agave nectar

1. Prepare the Honeydew Jicama Slaw.

2. For the Lime Aioli: In a bowl, combine the jalapeños, lime zest, and
mayonnaise.

3. In a small bowl, beat the oil and vinegar together, seasoning with
salt and pepper. Add the watercress, toss, cover, and set aside.

4. Heat a grill or heavy skillet until hot. Heat the tortillas and put two
on each of eight large plates.

5. Brush a grill, grill pan, or large heavy skillet with a little oil and cook
the tuna until rare, about 1½ minutes per side, turning once. Remove
and cut across the grain into thin slices.

6. Spoon the watercress on the tortillas, lay the sliced tuna in layers
on top, add the Honeydew Jicama Slaw, and finish with a dollop of
Lime Aioli.

Honeydew Jicama Slaw

In a bowl, stir together the honeydew, jicama, jalapeños, lemon zest,
and agave nectar. Cover and refrigerate.
 TUNA in CHAYOTE Taco Shells
with TOMATO Serrano SALSITA
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Sushi-grade tuna tacos are a huge favorite at Dos Caminos, and we do

them in many ways. In this version, Chayote Taco Shells are my
contemporary approach to traditional tortillas. The fish is quickly put in a
mildly spicy soy marinade and finally topped with a tangy-sweet Tomato
Serrano Salsita.
Enjoy these tacos with a sophisticated glass of dry white wine from
Northern Baja.

¾ cup Tomato Serrano Salsita [recipe follows]

8 Chayote Taco Shells [recipe follows]
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup crushed red pepper
¼ cup flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
2 tablespoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
Leaves from 10 sprigs cilantro
8 (3-ounce) pieces sushi-grade tuna
1 avocado, preferably Hass variety

TOMATO SERRANO SALSITA

1 tablespoon blended oil
2 serrano chiles, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, slivered
½ white onion, cut into small dice
6 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
6 Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into small dice
8 basil leaves, cut into chiffonade
Leaves from 8 sprigs cilantro, cut into chiffonade
Fine sea salt

1. Make the Tomato Serrano Salsita and Chayote Taco Shells.

2. In a small bowl, mix the soy sauce, red pepper, salt, oregano, and
cilantro leaves together. Slice each piece of tuna into three equal
finger-length pieces, each weighing about 1 ounce. Cover with the
marinade, turning to coat evenly, and let them stand for at least 1
minute.

3. Peel and cut the avocado into slices. Put a piece of tuna and a slice
of avocado in each Chayote Taco Shell. Spoon on the Tomato
Serrano Salsita and serve.

Tomato Serrano Salsita

1. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Stir in the chiles,
garlic, and onion, partially cover, and sweat for about 2 minutes. Add
the sugar and let it slightly caramelize, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Stir in the vinegars, raise the heat to high, and reduce the liquid by
half. Stir in the tomatoes and remove the pan from the heat to cool.
When cool, add the herbs and season to taste with salt. Transfer to a
bowl and refrigerate. The mixture should be a little thick.
CHAYOTE TACO SHELLS
2 large chayotes
Blended oil, for frying
1 cup all-purpose flour seasoned with salt and pepper
2 large eggs, beaten
1 cup panko bread crumbs

Chayote Taco Shells

1. Peel and slice the chayotes crosswise into ¼-inch slices and pat
dry.

2. Pour enough oil into a skillet to measure 2 inches deep and heat to
350 degrees when measured on a candy thermometer. Turn the oven
to warm.

3. Put the flour, eggs, and bread crumbs into three flat bowls. Coat a
slice of chayote with flour, patting to remove any excess. Dip the slice
into the egg, letting any excess run off, then coat with panko. Slide
each slice into the hot oil and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer to a sheet pan and keep in the oven.

CHEF’S TIPS:
 Chayote, also known as an alligator pear, is a squash-like green fruit that
resembles a pear and is native to Mexico. Remove its firm skin with a sharp
paring knife or vegetable peeler. When cooked, the exterior of these taco
“shells” is crisp and crunchy while the interior is soft.
 TUNA TACOS in
LETTUCE LEAVES á la Flaca
YIELD: 12 TACOS

In Mexico, a very slender, pretty young woman might be called la flaca—

the skinny girl. In these tacos, thinly sliced, sesame-crusted yellowfin tuna
is wrapped in lettuce leaves rather than taco shells and topped with a
fetching combination of Black Bean Pico de Gallo and Hot Papaya Mango
Salsa. You can make the Papaya Mango Salsa a day or two ahead and
refrigerate it.

Black Bean Pico de Gallo [page 41]

Hot Papaya Mango Salsa [recipe follows]
6 [5-ounce] pieces yellowfin tuna
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
Blended oil
12 large leaves red-leaf lettuce

HOT PAPAYA MANGO SALSA

1 ripe mango, peeled and diced [see page 000]
1 ripe papaya, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 large red bell pepper, seeds and membranes removed and
diced
1 habañero chile, minced
1/2 red onion, diced
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Make the Black Bean Pico de Gallo and Hot Papaya Mango Salsa.

2. Season the tuna with salt and pepper and roll in the sesame seeds
to coat.

3. Coat the bottom of a large skillet with oil and heat over medium-
high heat until it shimmers. Place the tuna pieces in the skillet and
sear for 2 minutes on each side for medium-rare, turning once.
Remove and, using a sharp slicing knife, cut each piece across the
grain into four slices.

4. Put a lettuce leaf on each plate and top with 1 tablespoon Black
Bean Pico de Gallo. Add a slice of tuna and a generous tablespoon of
Hot Papaya Mango Salsa on top. Pass the remaining salsas at the
table.

Hot Papaya Mango Salsa

In a medium bowl, mix the mango, papaya, red bell pepper, habañero,
onion, cilantro, vinegar, honey, and ancho chile powder. Season to
taste with salt and pepper, cover, and set aside.
 SMOKED SWORDFISH TACOS WITH
Pasilla de Oaxaca VINAIGRETTE
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Smoking swordfish over hardwood chips imparts a hint of charcoal flavor

to the dense, meaty steaks. For these tacos, the fish is gently shredded and
simply dressed with olive oil, lime, onion, and cilantro. The fish market in
Baja is known for its smoked tuna, which would be great here, too.

1¼ pounds (1-inch-thick) swordfish steaks

Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette [recipe follows]
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
½ half red onion, very thinly sliced
¼ cup cilantro leaves
2 cups watercress, coarse stems removed
1½ cups julienned jicama
3 tangerines, peeled and separated into segments
1 large ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and pureed with ½ teaspoon
salt

PASILLA DE OAXACA VINAIGRETTE

5 pasilla de Oaxaca chiles, stemmed, seeded, toasted, and
rehydrated
1 clove garlic
¾ cup rice vinegar
1¼ cups vegetable or olive oil or a blend of both
Fine sea salt

1. Prepare a smoker for hot smoking by soaking and then igniting the
hardwood chips and regulating the temperature so the temperature
will remain between 240 and 250 degrees.

2. Smoke the fish until the flesh is flaky and cooked through, 1 to 1¼
hours. Remove the fish, gently shred it, and refrigerate until you’re
ready to serve.

3. While the fish is smoking, make the Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette.

Set aside.

4. In a small bowl, toss the swordfish with the olive oil, lime juice,
onion, and cilantro leaves.

5. Mix about two-thirds of the Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette with the

watercress, jicama, and tangerine segments, turning gently and
adding more, if needed.

6. Spread a small dab of avocado puree in the center of each tortilla.

Spoon on the watercress salad and top with the swordfish mixture.

Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette

In the jar of an electric blender, combine the chiles, garlic, and
vinegar; puree until smooth. With the motor running, slowly add the oil.
Scrape the dressing into a bowl, season to taste with salt, and set
aside.
 CRAB Salpicón
Tacos
YIELD: 8 TACOS

In Mexico, foods en salpicón refers to a mixture of diced or finely chopped

pickled vegetables and a protein. For this lively, refreshing taco, crab is
combined with celery, onion, carrot, radishes, and a serrano chile. Enjoy
any extra vegetables for up to 4 days.

Chipotle Aioli [page 47]

Pickled Vegetables [recipe follows]
1 pound lump crabmeat, picked to remove any cartilage
3 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 1 lime
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 corn tortillas, fried until crisp
4 cups field greens or baby lettuces
½ cup cilantro leaves, for garnish

PICKLED VEGETABLES
2 cups red wine vinegar
½ cup sugar
½ tablespoon each coriander, allspice, mustard seed, and black
peppercorns
½ chile de árbol
½ cinnamon stick, preferably Mexican canela
2 medium stalks celery, sliced on the bias into 2-inch lengths
1 carrot, sliced into ¼-inch circles
½ red onion, very thinly sliced
½ serrano chile, seeded and thinly sliced
½ cup very thinly sliced radishes

1. Prepare the Chipotle Aioli and the Pickled Vegetables.

2. In a bowl, combine the crab, aioli, oil, and lime juice. Season to
taste with salt and pepper and gently mix. Set aside.

3. With a slotted spoon, transfer about ½ cup of pickled vegetables to

a bowl and combine them with the crab mixture, adding slightly more if
desired.

4. Put a tortilla on each large plate. Using your hands, gently form the
lettuce into a nest and lay it on each taco. Spoon the crab-vegetable
mixture in the center, garnish with cilantro leaves, and serve.

Pickled Vegetables
1. In a small non-reactive saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar,
coriander, allspice, mustard seed, peppercorns, chile de árbol, and
cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the pan from
the heat and let it stand for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in another non-reactive bowl, combine the celery,

carrot, onion, serrano chile, and radishes. Strain the liquid over the
vegetables, cover, and refrigerate until well chilled. They can be used
after 2 hours or for up to 4 days.
 GRILLED SOFT-SHELL CRAB Tacos
with HEIRLOOM TOMATO PICO DE GALLO
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Soft-shell crabs are found in the Gulf of Mexico and from Veracruz all the
way to Louisiana. Every spring, when the season arrives in New York,
you’ll see these tacos at Dos Caminos until the last crab is pulled out of the
water in September. The smoky char flavor of the grill, combined with the
sweetness of the crab and the tart taste of the Pico de Gallo, is a flavor
combo I look forward to each year. If the crabs are quite large, cut them in
half and use 8 for 16 tacos.

16 small soft-shell crabs, cleaned [see the sidebar]

6 heirloom cherry tomatoes, cut into ½-inch dice
2 avocados, preferably Hass variety, peeled, seeded, and cut into
½-inch dice
1 red onion, thinly sliced
Leaves from 1 bunch cilantro, cut into chiffonade
1-2 serrano chiles, finely sliced
Juice of 2 limes, plus 2 limes cut into eighths, for garnish
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon to brush the crabs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
16 corn tortillas, warmed

1. Clean the soft-shell crabs, or ask your fish vendor to do it for you.

2. In a small bowl, combine the tomatoes, avocados, onion, cilantro,

chiles, lime juice, and ¼ cup of olive oil. Season to taste with salt and
freshly ground black pepper and set aside.

3. Heat your grill to medium or build a medium-hot charcoal fire.

4. Brush the crabs with olive oil and lightly season with salt and
pepper. Warm the tortillas.

5. Grill the crabs until lightly charred on the outside and cooked
through, about 2 minutes per side. Serve in the tortillas with Heirloom
Tomato Pico de Gallo and lime wedges.

CLEANING SOFT-SHELL CRABS

When you’re buying soft-shell crabs, I suggest you buy them when they’re in
season and only from a reputable seafood purveyor. Optimally, buy those
that are frisky, and certainly avoid any with an off smell. Keep them cold and
use them within a day.

To clean crabs, using a pair of sharp kitchen shears, cut off the head just
beyond the mouth and eyes. Next, flip the crabs over and remove the central
flap-like apron at the opposite end by grabbing and pulling it down, then
cutting it off with a sharp knife. Finally, lift up one pointed outer edge of the
top shell enough so you can reach in and remove the fibrous gills. Repeat on
the other side. Rinse the crabs well and pat dry.
 GRILLED HOT and SMOKY
SHRIMP Tacos
YIELD: 8 TACOS

The smoky taste of hot-off-the-grill shrimp combined with crunchy cabbage

and red onion, tangy queso fresco, creamy avocado, and chipotle sour
cream is a perfect marriage and so easy to make. This is truly the perfect
summer supper.

8 flour tortillas
1 cup sour cream
2 teaspoons pureed chipotles en adobo
1 red onion, very thinly sliced
1 small head green cabbage, cored and thinly shredded
1 ripe avocado, preferably Hass variety, peeled and cut into 16
thin slices
½ cup queso fresco, crumbled or grated
¼ cup olive oil
16 extra-large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3-4 limes, halved

1. Heat a grill until hot. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum foil and warm on
the grill or in the oven.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir the sour cream and chipotle puree
together until blended. Make an assembly line with bowls of the red
onion, cabbage, avocado, and queso fresco.
3. Brush the grill with a little oil.

4. Toss the shrimp in oil and grill for about 2 minutes on each side,
turning once. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove to a plate
and cut in half lengthwise.

5. To assemble, put a slice of avocado in each tortilla. Add a

generous sprinkle of cabbage and onion, followed by two shrimp per
taco, and a generous spoonful of chipotle sour cream. Top with queso
fresco and a light squeeze of lime.
 SHRIMP Tacos with CHILE LIME SEA SALT
and GRILLED PINEAPPLE Salsita
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Shrimp simmered in hot sauce is another outstanding taco filling. The heat
of the shrimp combines well with smoky-sweet Pineapple Salsita and a
dash of Chile Lime Sea Salt. There are many unique salts from around the
world available to chefs and home cooks. One of my favorites is flaky
Maldon salt from England. Four generations of the same family have
harvested it since 1882. Opposite are some of my favorite spiced salts.

Chile Lime Sea Salt [recipe follows]

1 cup Grilled Pineapple Salsita [recipe follows]
¾ cup Dos Caminos’s House Hot Sauce [page 31]
16 extra-large [16-20 per pound] shrimp, peeled, deveined, and
cut in half lengthwise
8 flour tortillas
8 slices freshly cut avocado, preferably Hass variety

GRILLED PINEAPPLE SALSITA

3 [½-inch-thick] slices peeled and cored fresh pineapple
Blended oil, as needed
1 medium pink grapefruit, peeled, pith removed, and segmented
½ small jicama, peeled and julienned [about 1 cup]
3 very thin slices red onion
½ jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
1½ teaspoons honey
1½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
½ teaspoon grated lime zest
Fine sea salt
¼ cup loosely packed cilantro leaves

1. Make the Chile Lime Sea Salt, Grilled Pineapple Salsita, and Dos
Caminos’s House Hot Sauce.

2. In a very large non-reactive skillet, over medium-high heat, sauté

the shrimp in the House Hot Sauce until pink and just cooked through,
3 to 4 minutes. Divide them evenly among the tortillas.

3. Spoon the Grilled Pineapple Salsita over the shrimp. Top each with
a slice of avocado, sprinkle with Chile Lime Sea Salt, and serve. Pass
extra salsa at the table.

Grilled Pineapple Salsita

YIELD: 2 CUPS

This salsa is brimming with color, taste, and texture. Use on chicken,
fish, or vegetarian tacos. To get the right amount of charred-sweet
flavor from the pineapple, don’t cut the pineapple slices too thin or
they will fall apart; too thick and the pineapple won’t develop the
desired consistency and flavor.

Heat a grill until medium-hot. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the
pineapple with oil and grill until lightly browned with grill marks, about
2 minutes per side, and turn. Check often to see that the pineapple
doesn’t burn. Remove and let cool. Julienne the pineapple and
combine it with the grapefruit, jicama, onion, jalapeño, honey, lime
juice and zest, and salt to taste. Toss to blend. Reserve. Before
serving, add the whole cilantro leaves and toss.

CHILE LIME SEA SALT

Finely grated zest of 8 limes
¼ cup crushed dried chiles de árbol
¼ cup coarse sea salt
2 tablespoons coriander seeds

ORANGE SEA SALT

2 large oranges
½ cup Maldon or other flaky salt

SMOKED CHILE SALT

½ cup smoked salt, available at gourmet stores and online
¾ teaspoon sweet Pimentón de la Vera
½ teaspoon hot paprika
 FAVORITE FLAVORED SALTS
to Enhance Tacos and Other Foods
Chile Lime Sea Salt
In a molcajete or using a mortar and pestle, mash the lime zest, dried
chiles, sea salt, and coriander together until combined. Preheat the
oven to 250 degrees, spread the salt on a flat pan, and roast until dry,
about 15 minutes, turning occasionally.

Orange Sea Salt

1. Wash the oranges under cold running water and wipe dry. Let them
sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.

2. Spread out the salt on a work surface. Working with one orange at
a time, roll the orange over the salt with your palm. The coarse salt
will become coated with the essential orange oils just below the skin
of the orange.

3. Using a Microplane or a very fine zester, remove the zest from the
oranges.

4. In a molcajete, crush the salt with the orange zest to a finer but still
textured finish.

Smoked Chile Salt

In a small container with a lid, combine the salt, Pimentón de la Vera,
and hot paprika. Seal and shake vigorously for several seconds until
the chile powder is evenly distributed in the salt. You should not see
large specks of red. Smoked Chile Salt will keep indefinitely.
 SURF-and-TURF Tacos TAMPIQUENA-STYLE
with Pasilla de Oaxaca TOMATILLO SALSA
YIELD: 16 TACOS

This dish looks like it has a lot of ingredients, but the steps are easy and the
payoff is outstanding. Tampiqueña-style refers to a steak dish named by
Jose Luis Loredo, a tampiqueño waiter who went to Mexico City in 1939 to
open the Tampico Club. Carne asada á la tampiqueña was his signature
dish.

½ cup blended oil

½ cup lime juice
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1½ pounds skirt steak
½ recipe Guacamole [page 44]
3 strips smoky bacon, cooked and crumbled
Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa [page 36]
½ cup Sriracha Lime Aioli [recipe follows]
Rock Shrimp [recipe follows]
2 radishes, thinly-sliced

1. To make the marinade: In a large, resealable plastic bag, combine

the oil, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, oregano, chile
powder, and garlic powder. Add the steak, turn to cover evenly, seal,
and set aside to marinate.

2. Meanwhile, make the Guacamole and combine it with the bacon.

Prepare the Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa and Sriracha Lime
Aioli (below).

3. Heat a grill or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot. Remove
the steak from the marinade and cut it across the grain into thin slices.
Grill the slices for 1½ minutes per side. Cut into medium dice, toss
with the Pasilla de Oaxaca Tomatillo Salsa, and keep warm over low
heat as you prepare the Rock Shrimp.

4. To assemble the tacos, spoon a teaspoon of Bacon Guacamole

onto each tortilla. Divide the meat followed by the shrimp equally in
the tacos and finish with a generous drizzle of Sriracha Lime Aioli.
Garnish with thinly-sliced radishes.
SRIRACHA LIME AIOLI
1 cup mayonnaise, not light variety
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon Sriracha chile sauce
½ tablespoon Old Bay seasoning
½ teaspoon finely grated lime zest
⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt

ROCK SHRIMP
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ pounds rock shrimp, cleaned
1 small guajillo chile, seeded and very thinly sliced
Juice of 1 lime
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
16 flour tortillas

Sriracha Lime Aioli

In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, lime juice, Sriracha,
Old Bay seasoning, lime zest, and salt to taste.

Rock Shrimp
In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the
shrimp and sauté until they just start to turn pink. Stir in the chile, add
the lime juice, and cook for 1 minute more. Season to taste with salt
and pepper.
 LOBSTER Tacos PUERTO
Nuevo Style
YIELD: 16 TACOS

In Puerto Nuevo, a seaside resort in Baja, on the Pacific coast of Mexico,

spiny lobsters are abundant and delicious. Reputedly over a million of the
spiny crustaceans are served each year. Eating tacos made with them is
like a trip back to Old Baja in my college days for me. Please (if possible)
don’t steam them! Spiny lobsters are best when grilled or, as in the classic
style of Puerto Nuevo, deep-fried in lard.
The traditional way to eat them is to place some refried beans in the center
of the tortilla, top with a lobster tail, then drizzle with melted butter
(margarine in the old days!), salsas, and lime juice. Wash them down with
ice-cold soda or beer.

2 cups My Refried Beans [page 228]

1 cup Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa [page 34]
Pico de Gallo [page 39]
2 pounds lard
8 [1½-pound] lobsters
½ pound [2 sticks] unsalted butter
8 [12-inch] flour tortillas, preferably handmade
2 limes, cut into eighths

1. Prepare My Refried Beans using pinto beans, the Roasted Tomato

Chile de Árbol Salsa, and Pico de Gallo. Set aside.

2. In a large, deep, heavy casserole, melt the lard over medium heat
until it measures 375 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.
3. With a heavy, sharp knife, split the lobsters in half lengthwise.
Remove the green vein and flesh from the head and discard. Rinse
and pat dry thoroughly. Carefully place the lobster halves into the hot
lard, a couple at a time, and cook for about 5 minutes, until the tails
are curled and red.

4. Meanwhile, melt the butter and heat the Refried Beans and tortillas.

5. Using tongs, remove the lobsters from the oil and drain well on
paper towels. Remove the meat from the shells and pile in the center
of a platter.

6. Rinse the shells. Fill them with My Refried Beans, Pico de Gallo,
Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa, and limes, arranging around
the lobster tails. Serve with warm melted butter and flour tortillas on
the side.
 SCALLOP and
CHORIZO Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Scallops and pork, pork and scallops: one of my favorite flavor

combinations. Once the garlic is sliced (if you have a mandoline or a thin
slicing blade on your food processor, it’s much easier), the dish takes very
little work to make. Although a lot of garlic is used, it’s added at three
different times during the preparation and the taste is mild. Poblano chiles,
crema, and Cotija cheese complement it.

1 pound tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped

4 small cloves garlic, plus ½ cup sliced garlic
2 small white onions, coarsely chopped
2 small poblano chiles, seeds and membranes removed, coarsely
chopped
½ cup firmly packed, coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus
additional chopped parsley for garnish
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ pound fresh Mexican chorizo, casings removed
1 pound bay scallops, blotted dry
Fine sea salt
2 large bay leaves, broken into pieces
1 teaspoon sugar
Freshly ground black pepper
16 corn tortillas
Crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche, for garnish
¾ cup julienned radishes, for garnish
1 cup crumbled Cotija cheese, for garnish

1. In the jar of an electric blender, combine the tomatoes, the 4 whole

cloves garlic, the onions, the poblano chiles, and ½ cup parsley. Blend
for a few seconds to make a textured puree. Set aside.

2. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add half of the
sliced garlic and fry until golden brown, watching that it doesn’t burn.
Remove with a slotted spoon and discard.

3. Add the chorizo to the skillet, turn the heat to high, and sauté for 4
minutes. Turn the heat down to medium-high and continue cooking
until the chorizo is golden brown, 6 to 7 minutes, breaking up the
pieces with a wooden spatula.

4. Stir the remaining garlic into the pan with the chorizo. Add the
scallops, sprinkle with salt, and quickly sauté, stirring occasionally, for
2 minutes.

5. Add the tomato puree, bay leaves, sugar, and pepper to taste.
Cook briefly to reduce the sauce, about 3 minutes. The scallops
should be tender.

6. Warm the tortillas on a griddle or in the oven and fill each with the
scallop mixture. Drizzle each with crema, top with a sprinkle of
julienned radishes, and sprinkle with Cotija cheese and the remaining
parsley.
 OCTOPUS Ceviche
Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

When I need a getaway, I often head to Isla Mujeres, a quiet island off of
Cancún, where I eat fresh pulpo ceviche every day with my toes in the
sand. Grilled octopus will always bring me back to Isla’s waterfront and
the fresh taste of clean ocean spray. Here the octopus is first blanched,
then lightly grilled. It’s then combined with a colorful and refreshing salad,
and topped with smoky Pasilla de Oaxaca Chile Salsa.

Pasilla de Oaxaca Chile Salsa [recipe follows]

1 small red onion, cut lengthwise into thin strips
1-2 serrano chiles, seeded and chopped
½ cup cherry tomatoes, quartered
½ cup pitted Kalamata olives, quartered
½ cup lima beans, cooked until tender
¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves
3 small scallions, including light green parts
4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 [2- to 3-pound] octopus
1 cup rice vinegar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons lemon oil or olive oil
16 tortillas, warmed
Leaves from 1 small head mâche lettuce

PASILLA DE OAXACA CHILE SALSA

5 pasilla de Oaxaca chiles, stemmed, seeded, toasted, and
rehydrated
1 clove garlic
¾ cup rice vinegar
1¼ cups blended oil
Fine sea salt

1. Prepare the Pasilla de Oaxaca Chile Salsa.

2. In a bowl, combine the onion, serranos, tomatoes, olives, lima

beans, cilantro, and scallions. Drizzle on about 3 tablespoons of the
olive oil and the lemon juice, season to taste with salt and pepper, and
toss. Add more oil, as needed.

3. In a medium-sized non-reactive pot, combine the octopus with

enough water to cover. Add the vinegar and a tablespoon of salt and
bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so the liquid is gently
simmering, cover, and blanch the octopus for 5 minutes. Remove and
cool. Using a sharp knife, cut off the tentacles.

4. Heat a gas or charcoal grill or heavy grill pan until medium-hot.

5. Toss the tentacles with a little of the remaining oil and grill until
brown marks form on both sides, turning once. Remove, cool, and cut
into ¼-inch dice. Toss with the lime juice and lemon oil and season
with salt and pepper.

6. Divide the octopus among the tortillas, spoon on the salad, drizzle
with Pasilla de Oaxaca Chile Salsa, and garnish with a few mâche
leaves.
Pasilla de Oaxaca Chile Salsa
In the jar of an electric blender, combine the chiles with the garlic and
rice vinegar and puree until smooth. With the motor running, slowly
drizzle in the oil. Season to taste with salt.
POULTRY
Tacos
 WOOD-CHARCOAL-GRILLED
CHICKEN Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

In Mexico, grilling is done al carbon, over wood charcoal. While the

“kings” of the grill show their skills, the women make the salsas, and the
little girls prepare tortillas for a backyard fiesta. These zesty, marinated
chicken tacos are very simple to make.

⅔ cup freshly squeezed orange juice

⅓ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup achiote paste
8 cloves garlic
3 jalapeños
2 tablespoons Maggi sauce
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 bunch cilantro
2 pounds chicken legs and thighs
Pico de Gallo [page 39]
16 corn tortillas
1 cup grated Cotija cheese, for garnish
1 cup crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche, for garnish
½ cup cilantro leaves, for garnish

1. For the marinade: In the jar of an electric blender, combine the

orange juice, lime juice, achiote paste, garlic, jalapeños, Maggi sauce,
peppercorns, salt, and cilantro; puree until smooth. Rub the marinade
all over the chicken, put the pieces in a large, flat, glass baking dish,
cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or preferably overnight.

2. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

3. Transfer the chicken to a roasting pan and roast until the meat
easily pulls away from the bone, about 45 minutes. Remove the pan
from the oven and let the chicken cool. When cool, remove and
discard the skin and bones and shred the meat into large pieces.
Reserve the cooking liquid. Refrigerate the chicken if you’re not using
it right away.

4. While the chicken cools, prepare the Pico de Gallo.

5. Reheat the chicken in the cooking juices in a warm oven or over

low heat on top of the stove. Toast each tortilla in a nonstick pan over
medium heat for about 30 seconds on each side. Wrap in a towel to
keep warm.

6. Divide the chicken among the tortillas, topping with Pico de Gallo,
Cotija cheese, crema, and chopped cilantro.
 CHICKEN CHORIZO
and POTATO Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Robust, spicy chorizo has long been a staple in traditional Mexican

recipes. Recently, the sausages typically made with pork are also being
made with ground chicken and other meats. With plenty of seasonings, the
taste of the chicken version is similar and quite satisfying. Spanish chorizo
is already cured when you buy it; the Mexican version is sold raw and
removed from the casings before cooking.

1 pound unpeeled red potatoes, cut into ½-inch dice

Fine sea salt
2 teaspoons blended oil
12 ounces Mexican chicken chorizo sausage, casing removed
[about 1½ cups)
½ cup finely chopped white onions
3 tomatillos, husked, washed, and coarsely chopped
2 serrano chiles, stemmed and coarsely chopped
1 large clove garlic, coarsely chopped
12 corn tortillas, warmed
1 large avocado, halved, seeded, peeled, and sliced

1. In a large saucepan, bring 1 to 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add the

potatoes and 2 teaspoons of salt. Cover and cook until just tender, 10
to 12 minutes. Drain.

2. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, sausage, and
onion and sauté until the sausage is cooked through and the onions
are tender, about 10 minutes, breaking up the sausage meat with a
wooden spatula and stirring occasionally. Drain and discard all but 1
to 2 tablespoons of the excess fat in the pan.

3. Meanwhile, prepare the tomatillo salsa: Combine the tomatillos,

serrano chiles, and garlic in the jar of an electric blender and puree
until smooth. Season to taste with salt and set aside.

4. Add the potatoes to the skillet and cook until the potatoes begin to
brown, about 6 minutes, tossing occasionally. Keep warm. Spoon into
the tortillas, garnish with avocado slices and tomatillo salsa, and
serve.
 CHICKEN MEATBALL
Tacos
YIELD: 14 TACOS

Meatballs or albondigas in broth are a Mexican tradition. For this homey

version, I first make chicken soup and then shred the cooked meat for the
meatballs. It’s simple and satisfying. Serve in tortillas with the broth on the
side, or reserve the broth for another use.

6 cloves garlic
1 white onion, coarsely chopped
1 poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon achiote paste
3 tablespoons blended oil
2 cups Maseca-brand masa harina
1-plus teaspoons fine sea salt
2 cups My Chicken Broth, strained [recipe follows]
½ cup cilantro leaves and stems, finely chopped, plus additional
leaves for garnish
¼ cup mint leaves, finely chopped, plus additional leaves for
garnish
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
14 corn tortillas

1. Make the meatballs: In a food processor, combine the garlic, onion,

and poblano; pulse until the mixture is a fine paste.
2. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion
mixture and achiote paste and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Transfer to a large bowl, add the Maseca and 1
teaspoon of salt, and mix.

3. Add 2 cups of the strained broth, the cilantro, mint, orange juice,
and the shredded chicken. Stir until thoroughly combined.

4. Bring the broth to a simmer over medium-low heat. Shape the

dough into a 1½-inch ball and add to the simmering broth. Taste and
add salt to the masa, if needed. Shape the remaining dough into
meatballs and cook until they float to the surface, 5 to 7 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the meatballs to warm corn tortillas
and serve hot, garnished with cilantro and mint leaves.

MY CHICKEN BROTH
1 large chicken, cut into 8 pieces
10 cloves garlic, smashed
1 white onion, peeled and quartered
1 poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
2 limes, cut in half
1 orange, cut in half
½ bunch cilantro, leaves and stems
¼ cup packed mint leaves
4 allspice berries
1 [4-inch] piece of cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

My Chicken Broth
1. In a large soup pot, combine 3 quarts of water with the chicken,
garlic, onion, poblano, limes, orange, cilantro, and mint. Add the
allspice, cinnamon, salt, and peppercorns and bring to a boil over high
heat, skimming the surface of foam.

2. Reduce the heat to medium-low and gently simmer until the

chicken is cooked through, about 18 minutes, skimming the surface
occasionally.

3. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a large bowl. When it’s
cool enough to handle, remove the chicken skin and bones and
discard. Finely shred the chicken. Strain the broth back into the soup
pot. Reserve the chicken meat for another use, such as chicken tacos.
 CHICKEN CARNITAS
Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

In this version of carnitas (which translates as “little meats”), dark meat

chicken, instead of the more traditional pork, is simmered in condensed
milk, Coca-Cola, and orange juice. It’s a classic method of cooking in
Mexico that imparts a rich caramel-creamy taste. Save your chicken fat for
this dish. Although this looks like a lot of fat, fear not: Most of it stays in
the pan once the chicken is tender. Like meat cooked on the bone, chicken
is generally juicier and has more flavor this way.

3-plus pounds chicken fat or vegetable shortening

3 pounds bone-in chicken legs and thighs
1 [14-ounce] can sweetened condensed milk
1 [12-ounce] can Coca-Cola
¾ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
10 whole black peppercorns
5 bay leaves
1 tablespoon kosher salt
16 tortillas

1. In a large, deep, heavy pot, melt the lard over medium heat.

2. Add the chicken, condensed milk, Coca-Cola, orange juice,

peppercorns, bay leaves, and salt. Cook over medium heat until the
chicken is very tender and can be easily shredded, 1 to 1½ hours,
adding more lard if needed to cover the chicken completely.
3. Remove the pan from the heat. With a slotted spoon, lift the
chicken from the braising liquid, discard the skin and bones, shred the
meat, and spoon onto tortillas. Add the toppings of your choice.
 CHICKEN Picadillo
Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Brimming with savory and sweet flavors and a variety of textures, this is a
lighter version of an old favorite taco usually made with beef or pork. The
filling needs little adornment except perhaps some crema, and your favorite
salsa.

1 tablespoon blended oil

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 white onion, cut into fine dice
1 poblano pepper, seeds and membranes removed, cut into fine
dice
1 cup tomato paste
¼ cup ground ancho chile powder
2 pounds ground chicken
¼ cup dry sherry
2 cups canned tomato sauce
1 red potato, peeled, cut into ¼-inch dice, and fried until crisp
1 habañero chile, minced
½ cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted
½ cup diced dried apricots
½ cup sliced green olives
¼ cup golden raisins
1 tablespoon Valentina or other brand hot sauce
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 corn tortillas, warmed
Crema, for garnish [optional]
Chopped cilantro, for garnish [optional]

1. In a heavy saucepan, combine the oil, garlic, onion, and pepper;

cover and sweat over medium-low heat until soft, 3 to 5 minutes,
stirring occasionally. Stir in the tomato paste and chile powder, then
add the chicken and cook until browned, breaking the pieces apart
with a wooden spatula.

2. Pour in the sherry, bring to a boil over high heat, and stir up any
browned cooking bits. Stir in the tomato sauce, potato, habañero,
almonds, apricots, olives, raisins, Valentina hot sauce, and salt and
pepper to taste. Return the mixture to a simmer.

3. Divide the filling among the tortillas. If desired, drizzle with crema
and cilantro before serving.
 CHICKEN TINGA
Tacos
YIELD: 14 TACOS

Chicken Tinga, shredded braised chicken in tomato chipotle sauce, is

Puebla’s answer to soul food. Even before you take a bite, the spicy-smoky
aroma from the pan will captivate you. If you make your own chicken stock,
reserve the cooking liquid from this recipe to use as the base of it.

Roasted Tomato Salsita [recipe follows]

1 (3- to 3½-pound) whole chicken
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 white onion, coarsely chopped
½ cup kosher salt
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
14 corn tortillas, warmed
1 cup crumbled Cotija cheese, for garnish
1 cup thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

ROASTED TOMATO SALSITA

4 Roma tomatoes, quartered lengthwise
1 tablespoon blended oil
1 large white onion, thinly sliced
1-2 chipotles en adobo, pureed
2 teaspoons chopped piloncillo, Sugar in the Raw, or turbinado
sugar
1-2 teaspoons rice or apple cider vinegar
Fine sea salt

1. Prepare the Roasted Tomato Salsita.

2. When the salsita is close to being finished, in a large pot, combine

the chicken, celery, carrot, onion, salt, thyme, bay leaf, and
peppercorns. Add cold water to cover completely, cover the pot, and
bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer until the
chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165 degrees on an instant-
read thermometer, about 30 minutes.

3. Remove the chicken from the liquid and cool, reserving the liquid.
Pull the meat from the carcass, shred it into large pieces, and mix with
sauce, thinning the sauce with a little of the cooking liquid. Spoon the
chicken onto the tortillas and garnish with Cotija cheese and scallions.

Roasted Tomato Salsita

1. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

2. Toss the tomatoes with a little oil and roast in a flat pan in the oven
until dry, 2 to 3 hours, turning occasionally. In a large deep skillet,
heat the remaining oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and
sauté until deep golden brown, turning often. Add the tomatoes.

3. While the tomatoes are roasting, in a small saucepan, combine ¼

cup of water with the chipotles, piloncillo, and vinegar; simmer for 15
minutes. Scrape this into the skillet with the tomatoes and onions, mix
well, and season to taste with salt.
 Easy GRILLED LIME
CHICKEN Tacos
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Perfect for a quick “Taco Tuesday” dinner, these simple yet flavorful
grilled chicken tacos can be drizzled with many different salsas. Try
Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa (page 36), Grilled Pineapple Salsita
(page 120), or, if you like it hot, our House Hot Sauce (page 31).

4 ancho or other dried chiles, stemmed and seeded

2-3 cloves garlic, crushed or minced
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 jalapeño
4 limes, cut into ¼-inch slices
Fine sea salt
5 [5- to 6-ounce] boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa [page 36]
8 corn tortillas, warmed

1. Rehydrate the chiles in hot water, drain, and transfer to the jar of an
electric blender. Reserve the soaking liquid in case it is needed while
pureeing the chiles. Add the garlic, lime juice, and jalapeño to the jar
and puree until smooth. Scrape into a bowl and fold the lime slices
into the chile mixture along with ½ teaspoon of the salt. Coat the
chicken with the mixture, cover, and refrigerate for up to 8 hours.

2. Prepare the Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa or your favorite

salsa. Heat a grill or grill pan until hot.
3. Remove the chicken from the marinade and season with salt. Lay
the pieces on the grill and cook until just cooked through, 5 to 6
minutes per side, turning once. Remove, slice across the grain, and
serve with warm corn tortillas and salsa.
 FRIED CHICKEN
Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Mexicans feel it’s bad to waste any part of an animal that’s edible. On my
most recent trip to Baja, California, a culinary melting pot of Mexican
American and even Chinese influences, I discovered Kentucky Fried
Buches, a Tijuana institution that has been serving fried chicken necks
since 1963. They deep-fry the necks to where they are so crisp-tender you
can actually eat the bones, and then serve them with spicy salsa and warm
corn tortillas. I use thighs here, but feel free to experiment with the necks
for a real Tijuana specialty. Of course, an ice-cold Tecate is a must!
In this recipe, southern-grown pecans seem to have a natural affinity for
another southern staple: fried chicken. I learned about this salsa from Rick
Bayless, the great Mexican chef from Chicago, while we were both in Baja.

Juice of 2 limes
Fine sea salt
8 large boneless chicken thighs with skin on
Salsa Macha [recipe follows]
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup Maseca-brand masa for tortillas
½ teaspoon hot Pimentón de la Vera
¼ teaspoon chile de árbol powder
Blended oil for frying
16 corn tortillas, warm

SALSA MACHA
2 cups olive oil
⅓ cup pecan pieces
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
4 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
15 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed and seeded [about 1 cup]
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Generous ½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1. In a large bowl or casserole, whisk together the lime juice and 1

teaspoon of salt until blended. Add the thighs and turn to coat
thoroughly. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours or up to
overnight.

2. Prepare the Salsa Macha.

3. Remove the chicken thighs and pat dry with paper towels.

4. In a small bowl, combine the flour, Maseca, Pimentón, chile de

árbol powder, and 1 teaspoon of salt.

5. In a large, deep frying pan, heat 1 inch of oil over medium-high heat
until hot and shimmering. Dredge the chicken pieces in the seasoned
flour, patting to remove the excess. Slowly add the pieces to the oil,
taking care not to crowd, and fry until the pieces are golden brown,
are very crisp, and measure about 170 degrees on an instant-read
thermometer, about 4 minutes per side. Using tongs, remove to paper
towels to drain. Cut the chicken into thin strips and serve with Salsa
Macha and tortillas.

Salsa Macha
In a large saucepan, combine the oil, pecans, sesame seeds, and
garlic. Cook over medium-high heat until the garlic and sesame seeds
are golden, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the
chiles. Let cool 5 minutes.In a small bowl, mix the vinegar with the salt
until the salt dissolves, then add it to the pan along with the oregano.
Cool to room temperature, pour it into the jar of an electric blender or
food processor along with 3 to 4 tablespoons of the oil, and pulse until
everything is chopped into small pieces. Run the processor for a few
more seconds until everything is finely chopped.
 MARINATED CHICKEN SUPREMO Tacos
with Chicharonnes
YIELD: 16 TACOS

My inspiration for these spicy-sweet marinated chicken thighs was the

addictive, crispy-skinned chicken served at the wildly popular El Pollo
Supremo, near my mom’s house in Scottsdale, Arizona.

2¼ pounds large chicken thighs with skin and bones

Juice of 2 lemons
Juice of 2 oranges
1 cup Valentina or other hot sauce
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup rice vinegar
1½ tablespoons Maggi sauce
1½ tablespoons sugar
1½ tablespoons crushed garlic
2 teaspoons Dos Caminos’s House Hot Sauce [page 31]
2 cups My Refried Beans [page 228]
Chile de Árbol Salsa [recipe follows]
Chicharonnes [recipe follows]
12 scallions, including most of the green parts, trimmed
16 corn tortillas, warmed
¾ cup queso fresco, crumbled, for garnish

1. Remove the skin from the chicken and reserve for the
chicharonnes. In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon and orange
juices, Valentina sauce, oil, vinegar, Maggi, sugar, garlic, and House
Hot Sauce. Pour the mixture into a very large resealable plastic bag,
add the chicken, turn to coat evenly, and marinate in the refrigerator
for 24 hours, turning a couple of times.

2. Meanwhile, prepare My Refried Beans, Chile de Árbol Salsa, and

chicharonnes.

3. Before grilling the chicken, reheat My Refried Beans, if needed.

Heat a grill or heavy grill pan to hot. Remove the chicken from the
marinade and lay the pieces on the grill, taking care not to crowd
them. Cook until an instant-read thermometer reads 165 degrees or
the juices run clear when the meat is pricked deeply near the bone,
turning once. Grill the scallions at the same time until they are nicely
charred. Remove and slice on the bias into 1-inch pieces.

4. Remove the chicken and, when it’s cool enough to handle, pull the
meat from the bones. Cut it into bite-sized pieces and keep warm.

5. Spoon a tablespoon of My Refried Beans onto each tortilla. Divide

the chicken among the tortillas, lightly drizzle on Chile de Árbol Salsa,
sprinkle with scallions and chicharonnes, and serve.
CHILE DE ÁRBOL SALSA
10 chiles de árbol, stemmed and seeded
1 allspice berry
1 whole clove
1 large clove garlic, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon pumpkin seeds, or pepitas, toasted
½ tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
¼ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
¼ cup apple cider vinegar

CHICHARONNES
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup dark rum
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
Skin from chicken thighs [above]
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon smoked paprika, such as Pimentón de la Vera
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons blended oil for frying

Chile de Árbol Salsa

In the jar of an electric blender, combine the chiles, allspice, clove,
garlic, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, oregano, salt, and cumin
seeds. With the motor running, slowly pour in the vinegar and puree
until very smooth. Taste to adjust the salt, if necessary. Scrape into a
bowl and cover.

Chicharonnes
1. Prepare the marinade: In a bowl, stir the lime juice, rum, soy sauce,
and sugar together until the sugar has dissolved. Add the chicken skin
and marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature.

2. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, paprika, and salt. Remove the
pieces from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Dredge in the
flour mixture and transfer to a plate.

3. In a large heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until hot
and shimmering. Add the chicken skin and fry until deep golden brown
and cooked through, turning to cook evenly. Remove to paper towels
to drain and crumble into bite-sized pieces for garnish.
 SMOKED CHICKEN THIGH Tacos with
WATERMELON Pico de Gallo
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Applewood chips impart a fruity-smoky taste to these chicken thighs

marinated in a spicy-sweet mixture before grilling. Watermelon Pico de
Gallo alongside makes a delightfully refreshing partner. The two sugars
have different flavors: The dark brown sugar is more caramelized while
Sugar in the Raw is like Mexican cone sugar, called piloncillo.

½ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup Sugar in the Raw or turbinado sugar
¼ cup kosher salt
2 tablespoons paprika
½ tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
½ tablespoon white pepper
½ tablespoon onion powder
½ tablespoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground celery seed
½ teaspoon ancho chile powder
¼ teaspoon chile de árbol powder
1 cup apple juice
2½ pounds bone-in chicken thighs
Watermelon Pico de Gallo [page 43]
Applewood chips, soaked in water overnight, for the smoker
2 ripe avocados, preferably Hass variety
16 corn tortillas, warmed
Cotija cheese, crumbled

1. In a large bowl, mix together the brown sugar, Sugar in the Raw,
salt, paprika, black pepper, white pepper, onion powder, garlic
powder, cumin, celery seed, and ancho and árbol chile powders. Stir
in the apple juice, add the chicken thighs, and turn until well coated.
Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight.

2. Prepare the Watermelon Pico de Gallo.

3. Add the applewood chips to a smoker and heat to 220 degrees.

4. Lay the thighs on racks on sheet trays in the smoker and smoke
until they reach an internal temperature of 165 degrees when
measured with an instant-read thermometer inserted deep in the flesh,
45 minutes to 1 hour.

5. Remove the chicken thighs, then cool until you can shred the meat
with your hands. Slice the avocados.

6. Divide the chicken among the tortillas, spoon on some Watermelon

Pico de Gallo, add the avocados and Cotija cheese, and serve the
remaining salsa at the table.
 CHOPPED CHICKEN
LIVER Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

I adore chicken livers, especially when chopped into a coarse pâté-like

consistency. Mexico City has one of the largest Jewish populations in the
world, and I serve this dish for their holidays. Soaking livers in milk helps
remove any bitterness. Serve them with my Matzo Tortillas (below);
because corn tortillas are unleavened, they may be eaten during Passover.

Matzo Tortillas [recipe follows], heated

2 pounds chicken livers
1 quart whole milk, for soaking
4 ounces [1 cube or ½ stick] unsalted butter
6 cloves garlic, minced
4 canned anchovy fillets, chopped
2 medium white onions, diced
¼ cup white wine
½ cup chicken stock
Zest of 1 orange
¼ cup sherry vinegar
¼ cup honey
¼ cup mayonnaise, not light variety
2 tablespoons chopped chipotles en adobo
6 large eggs, hard-cooked and chopped, 2 reserved for garnish
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
GARNISHES
1 cup minced red onion
1 cup chopped cilantro
¾ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
¾ cup sliced pickled jalapeños

1. Prepare the Matzo Tortillas. Meanwhile, in a bowl, soak the chicken

livers in milk for an hour. Drain and blot dry.

2. In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic,
anchovies, and onions and sauté until the onions are soft but not
browned, about 3 minutes, mashing the anchovies with a fork.

3. Turn the heat up to medium-high, add the livers, and sauté until
golden brown, about 4 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook until most
of the liquid evaporates. Stir in the stock and simmer until the livers
are cooked through and the liquid has reduced by half, about 10
minutes, breaking the livers up with a fork or wooden spatula. Cool
slightly.

4. Scrape the mixture into a food processor and pulse into a coarsely
chopped puree. Mix in the orange zest, vinegar, honey, mayonnaise,
chipotles, and four of the chopped eggs. Season with salt and pepper
to taste.

5. Spoon the chopped liver into the Matzo Tortillas. Sprinkle with a
generous amount of red onion, eggs, cilantro, parlsey, and jalapeños
and serve.

MATZO TORTILLAS
1 cup matzo meal, ground to the consistency of flour
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 tablespoon blended oil, to grease the pan
Matzo Tortillas
YIELD: MAKES 16

1. In a bowl, combine the matzo meal, 1 cup of water, and salt. Mix by
hand to the consistency of masa.

2. Preheat a cast-iron skillet or griddle to medium heat. Brush with oil.

3. Wet your hands and mold the dough into 16 small balls. Using a
tortilla press, a rolling pin, two heavy books, or your hands, press
each ball of dough flat into a 3-inch circle between two sheets of
plastic wrap.

4. Put a tortilla in the preheated pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes per
side or until slightly browned. Turn, cook the second side for about 1
to 2 minutes, and transfer to a plate. Repeat the process with each
ball of dough. Keep the tortillas covered with a towel to stay warm and
moist until ready to serve.
 DUCK Carnitas
Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Here’s another use for that magical Mexican marriage of Coca-Cola,

condensed milk, and orange juice: It turns duck meat into a powerhouse
taco filling. To make it even more interesting, the duck skin is crisped,
chopped, and mixed with the succulent meat. Grilled Peach and Red
Pepper Salsita (page 55) would be a perfect balance for the duck.

Grilled Peach and Red Pepper Salsita [page 55]

4-plus pounds duck fat or lard
6 pounds duck leg-thigh combinations
½ cup orange juice
½ cup Coca-Cola
¾ cup sweetened condensed milk
5 bay leaves
1 sprig fresh thyme
½ stick cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
Zest of 1 orange
1 whole chile de árbol, stemmed
1 tablespoon whole peppercorns
Fine sea salt
16 corn tortillas, warmed

1. Prepare the Grilled Peach and Red Pepper Salsita.

2. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

3. In a large, deep pot, melt the lard. Add the duck, orange juice,
Coca-Cola, condensed milk, bay leaves, thyme, cinnamon, orange
zest, chile de árbol, peppercorns, and a couple teaspoons of salt,
making sure the duck is completely submerged in the liquid. Add
more, if needed. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.

4. Transfer the pot to the oven and cook until the duck is very tender
when pricked with a fork, 2 to 3 hours. Remove from the oven.

5. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the duck
pieces and cook until the skin is crisp and brown on the outside. Taste
to adjust the salt.

6. Remove the skin and chop it into small pieces. Remove the meat
from the bones and tear into large pieces, being careful not to shred it
too finely. Discard the bones.

7. Divide the duck among the tortillas, spoon on the salsa, and serve.
Pass extra salsa at the table.
 DUCK TACOS with PLUM
Pico de Gallo
YIELD: 16 TACOS

For the most part, I stick to taco fillings that would or could be eaten in
Mexico. Sometimes, however, I go off that beaten path. These tacos are my
homage to the awesome Peking duck I was served at Li Qun, a ramshackle
dump of a restaurant in a dodgy part of Beijing. It’s a word-of-mouth
sensation that you find by following pictures of ducks posted along winding
roads. The adventure more than exceeded my expectations.

1 [2½- to 3-pound] Pekin [Long Island] duck, excess fat removed

1 cup red wine
1 cup soy sauce
¼ cup hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns
3 cloves garlic, smashed
1 [4-inch] stick cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
1 chile de árbol, crumbled
1 [½-inch] piece fresh ginger, smashed
1 small white onion, coarsely chopped
Plum Pico de Gallo [recipe follows]
2 tablespoons blended oil
16 [6-inch] flour tortillas, warmed
Cilantro sprigs, for garnish
PLUM PICO DE GALLO
1 pound ripe plums, pitted and diced
½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
⅓ cup minced red onion
¼ cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 small jalapeño, minced
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste
Fine sea salt

1. Wash and dry the duck. Tie the legs together with string, then tuck
the wings under the body to secure them.

2. In a large bowl or casserole, combine the wine, soy, hoisin, lime

juice, peppercorns, garlic, canela, chile de árbol, ginger, and onion.
Add the duck and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours or up to
overnight.

3. Position the oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375
degrees.

4. Transfer the duck to a roasting pan and reserve the marinade.

Roast for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, pour ¾ cup of the marinade through
a strainer into a 1-quart saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat, and
cook for 1 minute. Baste the duck with it every 15 to 20 minutes.
Reserve the remaining marinade.

5. Continue roasting the duck until an instant-read thermometer

registers 155 degrees when inserted in the meaty part of the thigh or
160 degrees in the breast, about 20 to 30 minutes. Remove, allow the
duck to rest until cool to the touch, and gently shred the meat.

6. Meanwhile, prepare the Plum Pico de Gallo.

7. In a large skillet pan, heat the oil over high heat until hot and
shimmering. Add the duck pieces and quickly sauté until browned.
Pour in ½ cup of the reserved marinade and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes
more, or until the duck is glazed, stirring up any browned bits. Spoon
the duck onto tortillas, and serve with cilantro sprigs and Plum Pico de
Gallo.

Plum Pico de Gallo

In a bowl, stir together the plums, cilantro, onion, mint, jalapeño, and
lime juice with sugar and salt to taste.
 ROASTED QUAIL
Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Bobwhite quail are common in southern Mexico and especially the

Yucatán. (If quail are unavailable, you could substitute squab.) This recipe
uses a recado, a colorful red-hued spice paste linked to the Mayan culture
that originated here and whose members still populate the region.
The Grilled Pineapple Black Olive Salsa is brimming with taste, texture,
and color. The olives’ saltiness and the smoky sweetness of the pineapple
play beautifully against the quail. With fresh avocados in the mix, it’s best
to eat the salsa right away. To achieve the right charred-sweet flavor from
the pineapple, don’t cut the slices too thin or they will fall apart; too thick
and the pineapple won’t develop the desired consistency and flavor.

Grilled Pineapple Black Olive Salsa [recipe follows]

8 cleaned quail, about 8 ounces each
2 habañero chiles
2 whole cloves
2 allspice berries
1 white onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
½ head garlic, roasted and peeled
Fine sea salt
Recado [recipe follows]
16 corn tortillas, warmed
1. Prepare the Grilled Pineapple Black Olive Salsa.

2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

3. In a large pot, add the quail, habañeros, cloves, allspice, onion, bay
leaf, garlic, and some salt. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat, and
simmer until the quail are just barely cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the quail and transfer to a heavy
roasting pan. Strain and reserve the cooking liquid.

4. While the quail cooks, make the recado.

5. Brush the recado mixture over the quail and bake until golden
brown, about 15 minutes. While the quail are baking, reduce the broth
by half over high heat.

6. Remove the quail from the oven, cool slightly, and gently shred the
meat. Toss with a little of the cooking liquid and fill the tortillas. Serve
with Grilled Pineapple Black Olive Salsa.

GRILLED PINEAPPLE
BLACK OLIVE SALSA
3 [½-inch-thick] slices pineapple, cored
Blended oil, to brush the pineapple
10 oil-cured black olives, pitted and sliced
2 Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 firm ripe avocado, preferably Hass variety, peeled, seeded, and
cut into ¼-inch dice
½ cup chopped red onion
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1½ teaspoons minced jalapeño, including seeds
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt

RECADO
5 whole peppercorns
2 whole cloves
1 teaspoon allspice berries
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 [4-inch] stick cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
10 cloves garlic, crushed
½ cup achiote paste
¼ cup rice vinegar, plus more as necessary
¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup olive oil

Grilled Pineapple Black Olive Salsa

1. Heat a grill until it’s medium-hot. Lightly brush the pineapple with a
little oil and grill until lightly browned with grill marks, about 3 minutes
per side. Check often to see that the pineapple doesn’t burn. Remove,
let cool, and cut into ¼-inch dice.

2. In a bowl, toss together the pineapple, olives, tomatoes, avocado,

onion, cilantro, and jalapeño. Pour on the lime juice and oil, toss
again, and season to taste with salt.

Recado
In a clean coffee or spice grinder, grind the peppercorns, cloves,
allspice, coriander, oregano, and cinnamon into a powder. Add them
to a food processor along with the garlic, achiote, and vinegar; blend,
adding more vinegar if needed to create a smooth paste. Add the
orange juice, lime juice, and olive oil and blend.
 TURKEY PICADILLO
Tacos
YIELD: 8 TACOS

While picadillo filling is traditionally made with chopped or ground beef or

pork, ground turkey and chicken (page 000) are easily substituted. The
flavor is a contrast of sweet with salty. Serve the tacos with Apple-
Cranberry Salsita (page 54) or your choice of salsas.

Apple-Cranberry Salsita [page 54]

1 tablespoon blended oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 white onion, fairly finely chopped
1 poblano pepper, seeds and membranes removed, fairly finely
chopped
1 cup tomato paste
¼ cup ground chile powder
1 pound ground turkey
¼ cup añejo tequila
2 cups canned tomato sauce
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
2 serrano chiles, minced
1 red potato [about 3 ounces], cut into ½-inch cubes and fried
½ cup dried cranberries
½ cup sliced green olives
½ cup toasted pecans
¼ cup dried cherries
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 corn tortillas, warmed
Crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche, for garnish

1. Prepare the Apple-Cranberry Salsita.

2. In a large skillet, heat the oil, garlic, onion, and poblano pepper
over medium-low heat. Cover and sweat until soft, 6 to 7 minutes,
stirring occasionally. Stir in the tomato paste and chile powder.

3. Add the turkey and brown, breaking up the pieces with a wooden
spatula. Pour in the tequila, bring to a boil over high heat, and stir up
any browned cooking bits. Stir in the tomato sauce, salt, Tabasco
sauce, serrano chiles, potato, cranberries, olives, pecans, and
cherries. Return the mixture to a simmer and season to taste with salt
and pepper.

4. Divide the filling among the tortillas. If desired, drizzle with crema
and cilantro before serving.
BEEF, PORK, AND GAME
Tacos
 BRISKET Tacos with
GINGER PICKLED RED Cabbage
YIELD: 16 TACOS

The recipe for these intensely tasty tacos comes from my dear friend
Alegría Sanchez. They are filled with brisket so tender it will remind you of
the kind your abuelita, or “grandma,” used to make. The crunchy texture
and sweet-tangy taste of Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage are a modern
complement.

Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage [recipe follows]

3 cloves garlic, crushed
¾ cup dry red wine
¼ cup chile powder
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon cumin, preferably toasted whole and freshly ground
1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves, preferably Mexican
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
2 pounds center-cut beef brisket
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 medium white onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons blended oil, plus oil to fry the tortillas
5 Roma tomatoes, cored and diced
1 white onion, diced
1 chipotle en adobo, chopped
¼ cup chopped cilantro
16 corn tortillas, warmed
¾ cup crumbled queso fresco

1. Prepare the Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage.

2. For the Chile-Rubbed Brisket: In a large mixing bowl, whisk

together the garlic, wine, chile powder, vinegar, cumin, oregano, and
canela. Season the meat on both sides with salt and pepper.

3. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

4. Put the brisket in a roasting pan, cover with the chile mixture and
onions, seal the pan tightly with heavy aluminum foil, and roast until
the brisket is very tender when pierced with a fork, about 4 hours.
Uncover and cook 1 hour longer to crisp the outside of the brisket.
Remove from the oven, cool, tear into large shreds, and put into a
large bowl.

5. In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high

heat. Add the tomatoes, onion, chipotle, and cilantro; cook until soft,
stirring frequently. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let cool and
mix with the shredded beef.

6. Using a large skillet and working in batches, fry the tortillas in a little
oil until just limp, not crisp, about 2 to 3 seconds. Fill with the beef and
serve with a little of the Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage and drizzled with
queso fresco. Serve extra cabbage on the side.
GINGER PICKLED RED CABBAGE
4 cups thinly sliced red cabbage
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
½ tablespoon grated fresh gingerroot
⅛ teaspoon ground allspice
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage

1. In a large bowl, sprinkle the cabbage generously with salt. Let
stand in a cool place for 30 minutes, drain, and transfer to a colander
or vegetable steamer to drain for 30 minutes. Transfer to a plastic
container.

2. In a small non-reactive saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar,

ginger, spices, and pepper; simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the
heat and pour over the cabbage. Cool, cover, and refrigerate.
 CHILE and BEER BRAISED
BRISKET Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

The filling for these tacos is pure and simple comfort food. You can make it
ahead and use it as a taco filling, with scrambled eggs, or on a roll for
sandwiches. Use your choice of any of the salsas, toppings, and side dishes
in this book. Shredded lettuce, Pico de Gallo, crumbled queso fresco, and
cilantro are classics.

6 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded

1 pound roasted and diced tomatoes
1 large white onion, coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon chile de árbol powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
Fine sea salt
1 cup Negra Modelo or other Mexican beer
2 pounds center-cut beef brisket
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon blended oil
16 corn tortillas, warmed

1. Tear the chiles into 1-inch pieces and put in a large bowl. Cover
with hot water and soak until softened, at least 20 minutes. Drain.

2. Combine the tomatoes and their juices, the onion, garlic, chile
powder, cumin, 1 teaspoon of salt, and the drained chiles into a food
processor and process until smooth. Scrape the mixture into a large
bowl and stir in the beer.

3. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

4. Season the brisket with salt and pepper. In a large roasting pan,
heat the oil over medium heat. Add the brisket and brown on all sides,
about 6 minutes total time. Pour the chile sauce over the meat and
bring to a simmer. Cover tightly with aluminum foil, transfer to the
oven, and braise for 3 hours. Remove the foil and continue braising
until the meat is fall-apart tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour more.

5. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and pull it apart into long
shreds using two forks. Stir the shredded meat back into the sauce.
Spoon the mixture into the tortillas, garnish, and serve.
 CORNED BEEF and
CABBAGE Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Why forgo your taco-lust on St. Paddy’s Day? At Dos Caminos, we love to
celebrate all holidays, as with this Gaelic-inspired take on a taco filling.
We serve them with plenty of Guinness. If you happen to have leftover
corned beef, or want to buy it premade, it’s all the easier to whip these
unique tacos together.

8 allspice berries
2 medium bay leaves, crumbled
2 fresh thyme sprigs
2 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 pounds center-cut beef brisket
3 cups beef broth
1 large white onion, cut in sixths
1 medium clove garlic, minced
12 corn tortillas, warmed
3 cups Spicy Cabbage Slaw [recipe follows]
Sliced pickled jalapeños

SPICY CABBAGE SLAW

1 head white cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
4 pickled jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced
2 carrots from pickled jalapeños, thinly sliced
1 red onion, thinly sliced
½ bunch cilantro, julienned
½ cup juice from pickled jalapeños
½ cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
Fine sea salt

1. Combine the allspice, bay leaves, thyme, ancho chiles, and

peppercorns in a doubled 8-inch square of cheesecloth and tie it
tightly to keep the herbs and spices inside. Add it to a 12-quart pot
along with the brisket and broth. Pour in enough water to cover the
brisket, add the onion and garlic, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat
to low, cover, and simmer for 2 hours until tender.

2. Remove the corned beef to a platter, cover with foil, and keep warm
in a very low oven or warming drawer.

3. When you’re ready to serve, cut the corned beef across the grain
into very thin slices and distribute the meat evenly among the tortillas.
Top with Spicy Cabbage Slaw and sprinkle with jalapeños.

Spicy Cabbage Slaw

In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, jalapeño peppers, carrot,
onion, cilantro, jalapeño juice, grapefruit juice, and lime juice. Season
to taste with salt. Let stand 30 minutes. Juice should taste salty and
sweet, like pickling liquid.
 NUEVO León STYLE DRIED BEEF
and SCRAMBLED EGG Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

This is our version of a classic Norteño dish—the area between Northern

Mexico and Texas—that combines dried shredded beef with scrambled
eggs. It’s become an essential breakfast dish in Northern Mexico, Texas,
and Arizona. The dish was thought to have originated in Ciénega de
Flores, a city famous for its dried beef. We serve it as breakfast or brunch
tacos to satisfy even the heartiest of appetites.

½ cup Pico de Gallo [page 39]

Guacamole, for garnish [page 44]
1 teaspoon blended oil
1 pound leftover Chile and Beer Braised Brisket [page 177] or
purchased cooked brisket, shredded as finely as possible
1 dozen large eggs, beaten
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 [6-inch] flour tortillas
12 slices aged cheddar cheese
4 limes, cut into quarters

1. Prepare the Pico de Gallo and Guacamole.

2. In a very large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the
brisket and brown well, stirring often. Stir in the Pico de Gallo and
cook for 1 minute to reduce the liquid slightly. Add the eggs, season
with salt and pepper, and stir until the eggs are just set.
3. Meanwhile, heat a griddle or large skillet over high heat. Lay the
tortillas on the griddle, heat one side, turn, put a slice of cheese on
each, and let it melt slightly.

4. Fill the tortillas with brisket and fold in half.

5. To serve, line up two or three tacos on each plate with lime

“bookends” and serve with additional Pico de Gallo and Guacamole.
 TAMARIND Braised
SHORT RIB Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Short ribs need long, slow braising to soften the meat and develop rich
flavors, so this sweet and tangy version made with tamarind is best
prepared ahead of time. You should have enough leftovers for the Gorditas
de Res on page 184. Elote de Calle, Mexico City-Style Street Corn (page
224), would be a great addition to this meal.

8 meaty beef short ribs, about 6 pounds

¼ cup kosher salt
6 canned chipotles en adobo, plus 1 additional chipotle, chopped
1 large white onion, diced, and 1 small white onion, diced
1 large carrot, diced
1 bay leaf
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 cup tamarind paste
2 tablespoons blended oil
5 Roma tomatoes, cored and diced
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
16 corn tortillas, warmed
Crema, Greek yogurt, or crème fraîche, for garnish
½ cup chopped cilantro, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish
¼ cup toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Season the short ribs generously with salt, lay them side by side in
a large heavy roasting pan, and scatter the six chipotles en adobo, the
large onion, carrot, and bay leaf on top of the meat.

3. In a small bowl, stir together the vinegar, wine, brown sugar, and
garlic; pour over the short ribs. In a separate bowl, whisk the tamarind
paste into 1 cup of hot water to dissolve it a little, then combine it with
the vinegar-wine liquid and pour into the pan. The liquid should come
about three-quarters of the way up the sides of the short ribs. Add
more water, if necessary.

4. Cover the pan tightly with foil and again with a second layer of foil.
Transfer to the oven and braise until the meat falls apart when poked
with a fork, 3 to 3½ hours, removing the foil to check that the ribs are
tender. Using tongs, carefully remove the ribs to a platter, cover, and
set aside to cool at room temperature.

5. Strain the liquid through a fine strainer into a large container. Chill
for at least 1 hour so the fat rises to the surface and forms a solid
chunk. Remove and discard.

6. In a large, deep skillet over high heat, bring the braising liquid to a
boil and reduce to about 3½ cups. Return the short ribs to the pan,
turn the heat down to medium-low, and simmer until the ribs start to
become glazed and sticky with the sauce, 50 to 55 minutes, turning
with the tongs. Remove from the heat, pull the meat off the bones,
and shred it with two forks. (The recipe may be made several days
ahead to this point.) Keep warm if you’re serving right away.

7. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the
tomatoes, remaining onion, remaining chipotle, and cilantro; cook,
stirring, until soft, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to
taste, and mix with the shredded beef. Spoon the filling into the
tortillas, drizzle with crema, cilantro, and sesame seeds, and serve.
 BEEF-STUFFED Gorditas
with Habañero Salsa
YIELD: 6 (4-INCH) GORDITAS

Gorditas, or “little fat ones,” are thick, griddled tacos typically filled with
stewed meats like beef, pork, or chicken. They may also be made with black
beans and/or cheese. Here I pair them with really hot Habañero Salsa, but
use a salsa of your own choice, if you prefer. In the areas around Lake
Pátzcuaro, the dough for gorditas is made with blue cornmeal, as it is here.

1 cup Tamarind Braised Short Ribs [reserved from recipe on

page 183]
Habañero Salsa [recipe follows]
2 cups blue cornmeal
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Blended oil [about 3 cups] for frying
¼ cup crumbled Cotija cheese
½ cup thinly sliced red cabbage

1. Prepare the Tamarind Braised Short Ribs and Habañero Salsa.

2. In a large bowl, mix the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt
together. Add 1½ cups of water and stir until the dough is smooth.
Form the dough into walnut-sized balls, cover, and set aside.

3. Moisten a cloth napkin and spread it out on a flat surface. Roll each
ball of dough in the moistened palms of your hands until smooth,
press your thumb into the center of each ball to make a dimple, and fill
it with a tablespoon of braised short ribs. Roll again to cover the short
ribs and put the balls on the napkin. Cover each ball with a plastic bag
and press down to flatten it into a ½-inch disk.

4. Fill a large cast-iron skillet about halfway up with oil and heat over
medium-high heat to 375 degrees when measured on an instant-read
thermometer. Slide a few patties into the hot oil and fry until golden
brown and crispy, about 1½ minutes per side. Don’t crowd. Remove
with a slotted spoon or tongs to drain on paper towels. As soon as
they are cool enough to handle, make a slit on the side of each disk
and stuff with 1 teaspoon of crumbled cheese and a little cabbage,
drizzle with 1 teaspoon of Habañero Salsa, and serve.
HABAÑERO SALSA
2 orange habañero chiles, cut in half
½ Roma tomato
1 shallot, cut in half
1 clove garlic
1½ bay leaves
1 small carrot, cut in half lengthwise
½ yellow bell pepper
1½ cups white vinegar
Fine sea salt

Habañero Salsa
In a medium-sized non-reactive pan, combine the chiles, tomato,
shallot, garlic, bay leaves, carrot, bell pepper, vinegar, and 1½ cups
water; bring to a boil. Cook until the peppers are just tender, about 10
minutes. Strain and transfer the solids to the jar of an electric blender,
reserving the liquid. Puree until the salsa is smooth, adding just
enough liquid to blend, about 2 tablespoons. Season to taste with salt
and cool.

CHEF’S TIPS
Habañeros are one of the hottest chiles and not for timid taste buds.
Removing the seeds and membranes will tame the fire a little. Beyond the
heat is a distinct fruitiness that adds a wonderful spark to almost anything.
Besides Gorditas de Res, this salsa is an excellent dip for tortilla chips or
spooned on a simple piece of grilled fish. It’s also a nice sauce to combine
with dishes that include fruits, like mango, orange, or pineapple.
 Cascabel CHILE MARINATED Carne Asada
TACOS WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS,
Pico de Gallo, AND Cotija CHEESE
YIELD: 12 TACOS

In Mexico, carne asada usually refers to steak that’s pounded flat,

marinated, and cooked a la plancha—on a flat griddle or comal—to sear
the outside of the meat. It’s then sliced and used in tacos, enchiladas,
burritos, and so forth. Basically it’s like barbecuing and just as popular.
Since most people don’t have a comal at home, I suggest cooking the meat
on a grill or in a cast-iron skillet on the stovetop.
Cascabel chiles have a toasty, nutty red chile flavor but mild to medium
heat. This most traditional of tacos is more exciting because the meat is
first marinated, creating a very flavorful filling.

6 cascabel chiles, stemmed and seeded

1 chile de árbol, stemmed and seeded
½ cup reserved cooking liquid from soaking the chiles
1 small white onion, quartered
3 cloves garlic
½ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup Maggi sauce or Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
½ tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided
1½ pounds [1-inch-thick] sirloin steak, butterflied [or ask the
butcher to do this]
Pico de Gallo [page 39]
½ recipe Guacamole [page 44]
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 corn tortillas, warmed
½ cup grated Cotija cheese, for garnish
Salsa of choice

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Make the marinade: Cook the chiles in a dry skillet over medium
heat until you can smell the toasty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes, shaking
frequently. Transfer them to a medium saucepan, cover with water,
and bring to a simmer. Remove the pan from the heat, cool, and drain.
Reserve the soaking liquid.

3. Meanwhile, roast the onion on an ungreased baking sheet until

brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

4. Combine the chiles with the garlic, vinegar, Maggi, lime juice,
oregano, and 1 teaspoon of the salt in the jar of an electric blender.
Puree until smooth, adding some of the soaking liquid if needed to
help the blades turn easily. In a large bowl, toss the steak with the
marinade, making sure it is well coated. Cover and refrigerate for 8
hours or overnight.

5. About 1 hour before cooking the meat, prepare the Pico de Gallo
and Guacamole.

6. Heat the barbecue until hot. Remove the steak from the marinade
and discard the marinade. Season the meat on both sides with salt
and pepper and grill to the desired degree of doneness, 2 to 3 minutes
per side for medium-rare, turning once. Remove to a cutting board, let
rest for 1 to 2 minutes, and then slice crosswise into ½-inch-wide
strips.
7. While the steak is cooking, wrap the tortillas in aluminum foil and
heat on the grill for about 5 minutes.

8. To serve, spoon 1 tablespoon of Guacamole onto each warm

tortilla. Add the carne asada, then garnish with 1 to 2 tablespoons of
Pico de Gallo and about 1 teaspoon Cotija cheese. Serve 2 tacos per
person with salsa on the side.
 Michoacán-Style BEEF
TENDERLOIN TIP Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Michoacán is a state in southwestern Mexico that borders the Pacific

Ocean. Locals are known for slowly simmering meats (often in lard) in
large copper cauldrons until the pieces are crispy on the outside and tender
inside. Most famously, there are carnitas (see page 146).
I adapted the idea to beef tenderloin tips with bacon. The pieces are juicy,
tender, and more practical than using filet mignon.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium white onions, halved and sliced on the diagonal, plus 1
small onion, finely chopped
7 serrano chiles, seeded and cut into thin strips
3 medium tomatoes, cored and finely chopped
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ pound sliced bacon, finely chopped
1½ cups mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1 chile de árbol, sliced into thin rings
2 pounds fillet of beef tips, cut into 2 × ½-inch strips
16 corn tortillas, warmed
2 jalapeños, seeded and cut into thin strips
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter
and oil, stir in the sliced onion and chiles, and cook until the onion is
golden, about 15 minutes, stirring frequently.

2. Add the tomatoes, season lightly with salt and pepper, and simmer
uncovered until the tomatoes break down, the sauce thickens, and the
fat rises to surface, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Skim off
the fat for cooking; reserve both the fat and the sauce in separate
bowls.

3. Wipe out the pan and heat over medium-high heat until hot. Add
the bacon and fry until crisp, turning often. Remove the pieces to
paper towels to drain.

4. Add enough of the reserved fat to have 2 tablespoons of fat in the

skillet, stir in the remaining onion along with the mushrooms and
chiles de árbol, and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes.
Scrape into a bowl.

5. Add the beef to the skillet and brown on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes.
Season lightly with salt and pepper, remove to a plate, tent with foil,
and keep warm.

6. Return the onion-mushroom mixture to the skillet along with the

beef. Add the sauce and bacon, cooking over medium heat for about
5 minutes. Divide the beef among the tortillas, sprinkle with jalapeños
and cilantro, and serve.
 Carne Parrillada TACOS
WITH Chiles Rajas
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Throughout Mexico, there’s a long tradition of serving mixed grills that

include different kinds of meats as well as poultry and even vegetables. In
town squares everywhere, the air is perfumed with the wonderful aroma of
charred foods on weekends. These tacos combine the flavors and textures
of grilled hanger steak, bacon, crumbled cheese like Menonita (see the
sidebar), and tri-colored Chiles Rajas. At Dos Caminos, each plate
includes My Refried Beans (page 228) and Elote de Calle, Mexico’s
tempting street-style corn on the cob (page 224). The ears can be grilled
along with the steak.

Chiles Rajas [recipe follows]

2½ pounds hanger steak, trimmed
2 tablespoons Maldon or other coarse sea salt
1 tablespoon crushed red chile flakes
1 tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
2 teaspoons blended oil
1 medium white onion, sliced
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ pound sliced bacon, chopped
1 pound crumbled or shredded Menonita, queso blanco, or
Monterey Jack cheese
16 corn tortillas, warmed
Guacamole [page 44]
Pico de Gallo [page 39]

1. Prepare the Chiles Rajas.

2. Slice the steak across the grain into ½-inch-thick slices and flatten
slightly with a meat pounder. Combine the salt, chile flakes, and
oregano; sprinkle on the slices. Transfer the meat to a covered
container and refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight.

3. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion
and sauté until golden brown and caramelized. Scrape into a bowl and
set aside.

4. Heat a grill or large heavy skillet to medium-high. Cook the beef

slices until medium-rare, 2 to 3 minutes, turning once. Remove and
season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Meanwhile, in the same skillet used for the onion, fry the bacon
over medium heat until cooked through. Add the cooked onion, steak,
Chiles Rajas, and cheese; toss until the cheese is melted.

6. Spoon the mixture into the tortillas, top with Guacamole and Pico
de Gallo, and serve.
CHILES RAJAS
[THREE-COLORED PICKLED PEPPERS]
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ medium red onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into thin strips
1 yellow bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into thin
strips
1 poblano chile, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into thin strips
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
½ tablespoon Maggi sauce or Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon kosher salt

Chiles Rajas [Three-Colored Pickled Peppers]

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the
onion and sauté until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic
and sauté for 1 minute more, stirring frequently. Stir in the peppers
and chile strips and mix thoroughly. Pour in the vinegar, lime juice,
and Maggi sauce, lower the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Season to taste with salt and refrigerate.
 BEEF Picadillo
TACOS
YIELD: 16 TACOS

When you want familiar-tasting tacos, yet a version that will satisfy even
sophisticated palates, try my picadillo filling. It’s a simple yet flavorful
mixture of ground beef and spices. Picadillo means “chopped” or
“ground” in Spanish. Dress these up with thinly sliced lettuce, shredded
cheese, chopped onions, and salsa.

1 tablespoon blended oil

2½ pounds lean ground beef
1 white onion, cut into small dice
¼ cup minced garlic
¼ cup chopped shallots
1 tablespoon pasilla de Oaxaca chile powder
1 tablespoon Hungarian sweet paprika
½ tablespoon ground cayenne pepper
¼ cup tomato paste
Fine sea salt
16 corn tortillas, warmed

JALAPEÑO MINT SALSITA

¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup piloncillo or turbinado sugar
1 tablespoon blended oil
¼ cup minced white onion
4 jalapeños, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
Fine sea salt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, cut in chiffonade

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the beef,
onion, garlic, and shallots; cook until the onion is golden brown, 5 to 7
minutes. Stir in the chile powder, paprika, cayenne pepper, and
tomato paste, cooking for about 5 more minutes. Season to taste with
salt and divide among the tortillas. Serve with your choice of toppings
and salsas.

VARIATIONS: Try ground lamb drizzled with scallions and Spicy Mint
Crema made with Greek yogurt (page 88). Or you can make venison
picadillo with finely chopped or ground venison—or, if you are in the
Sonoran Desert, giant mule deer—served with Jalapeño Mint Salsita
(below).

Jalapeño Mint Salsita

In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar and piloncillo and simmer
until the sugar is dissolved. In a medium-sized skillet over medium
heat, add the oil and onion, partially cover, and sweat until
translucent. Add the jalapeños and piloncillo-vinegar syrup and
simmer until the mixture binds together. Season to taste with salt and
cool. Finish by folding in the lime juice and fresh mint.
 BEEF TONGUE Tacos in FRESH TOMATO
SERRANO CHILE Salsa
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Mexicans eat every part of an animal, and waste of any kind is considered
a sin. Slowly simmered tongue that’s sliced and cubed is a very popular
taco filling. The sweet meat is nicely accented with tangy-bold Fresh
Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa. It’s a favorite of my longtime friend and
fellow chef Scott Linquist.

3-4 pounds beef tongue, excess fat trimmed

12 peppercorns
6 cloves garlic
1 white onion, coarsely chopped
6 sprigs thyme
6 sprigs fresh marjoram
2 bay leaves
¼ cup kosher salt
Fresh Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa [recipe follows]
16 corn tortillas, warmed

FRESH TOMATO SERRANO CHILE SALSA

½ pound Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
⅝ cup finely chopped white onion
⅜ cup chopped cilantro
2-3 serrano chiles, seeded and finely chopped
Fine sea salt

1. In a large saucepan, cover the tongue with cold water. Add the
peppercorns, garlic, onion, thyme, marjoram, bay leaves, and salt;
bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer until the
meat is tender, about 3 hours.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the Fresh Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa.

3. Cool the tongue in the broth. Peel and return it to the broth to cool
completely. When it’s cold, cut it into bite-sized cubes, fill the tortillas,
and serve with Salsa Roja Cruda.

Fresh Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa

YIELD: 2 CUPS

In a non-reactive bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion, cilantro, and

chiles. Season to taste with salt.
 TRIPE Tacos
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Tripe tacos are among the most beloved street foods in Mexico. Until you
taste cooked tripe—the pieces are deliciously crunchy on the outside and
soft inside—the idea may be kind of off-putting. Once you try them,
however, I believe you’ll be a convert, as I was. They are especially
appealing when served in tortillas made into cones with Herbed Salsa
Verde, a squeeze of lime, cilantro, and Guacamole. Although this looks like
a lot of tripe, when tripe cooks, it shrinks dramatically.

Herbed Salsa Verde [recipe follows]

4 pounds tripe, cleaned, rinsed, and drained
2 tablespoons blended oil
Fine sea salt
16 corn tortillas
1 large white onion, finely chopped
12 corn tortillas, warmed
½ recipe Guacamole [page 44]
½ cup chopped cilantro
2 limes, cut in quarters

HERBED SALSA VERDE

1 cup baby arugula leaves
¼ bunch flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
Leaves from 2 sprigs marjoram, coarsely chopped
Leaves from 2 sprigs basil, coarsely chopped
Zest of 1 orange
1 anchovy fillet, rinsed well and patted dry
1 clove garlic
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Prepare the Herbed Salsa Verde.

2. Fill a large pot with water and heat over medium-high heat. Add the
tripe, cover, and simmer until soft, 50 minutes to an hour. Using a
slotted spoon, remove the tripe to paper towels to drain. Cut into 1-
inch cubes.

3. In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add
the tripe and fry until golden brown but with the insides still soft, about
8 minutes, turning the pieces often. Remove to paper towels and
season with salt.

4. Roll each tortilla into a triangular cone and fasten the side with a
toothpick. Fold about an inch at the bottom over. Spoon a generous
tablespoon of Guacamole in the bottom of each cone. Divide the tripe
among the cones, ladle on some Herbed Salsa Verde, drizzle with
cilantro, and squeeze on some lime juice.

Herbed Salsa Verde

In a food processor, pulse the arugula, parsley, marjoram, basil,
orange zest, anchovy, garlic, pepper, salt, and olive oil until blended
and chunky-smooth.
 MEXICAN HOT DOG
Tacos
YIELD: 10 TACOS

In 1943, two enterprising Americans set up a hot dog cart at the central
bullring in Mexico City, and the country’s passion for perros calientes was
born. By the ’50s, there was a cart selling bacon-wrapped hot dogs with all
the trimmings in Mexico City’s Parque de la Alameda. Today you will find
hot dogs served that way all over the country.
As a teenager in the ’80s, my family and I visited Tijuana where I had my
first TJ Dog: crisp, thin-sliced bacon wrapped around a sizzling dog,
tucked inside a warm tortilla, topped with melted cheese and pickled
jalapeños. I still love them.
Buy good-quality hot dogs (we use Kobe beef in the restaurants), but really
any kind works.

1 cup Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa [page 34]

10 hot dogs
3 ounces sharp cheddar cheese
½ cup canned or jarred pickled jalapeños
20 thin slices smoked bacon
10 [8-inch] flour tortillas

1. Prepare the Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa.

2. With a sharp knife, cut the hot dogs open lengthwise, making a 2½-
inch-long slit, leaving the ends intact.

3. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the cheese into strips. Divide the
cheese among the hot dogs. Add two or three jalapeño slices to each,
wrap in two slices of bacon, and secure with toothpicks.

4. If you’ll be grilling, heat your barbecue to medium-hot and warm the

tortillas. Otherwise, warm the tortillas in a preheated 350-degree oven
or toaster oven for 10 minutes.

5. Lay the hot dogs on the grill cut-side up. When the cheese melts,
rotate the hot dogs 15 to 25 degrees, to cook each side, about 8
minutes total. If you’re cooking in the preheated 350-degree oven,
bake the hot dogs for 15 to 18 minutes. Remove the hot dogs with
tongs, place each in a warm tortilla, remove the toothpicks, top with
Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa, and roll up.
 Cochinita Pibil
TACOS
YIELD: 14 TACOS

Early Mayans on the Yucatán Peninsula slowly roasted young suckling

pigs, or cochinitas, wrapped in banana leaves, in deep pits until they
became succulent and fork-tender. Before the meat was buried (pibil means
“buried” in the local dialect), it was marinated in an acidic liquid that
traditionally included bitter oranges and annatto-based achiote paste to
add flavor and impart the characteristic orangey-red color.
Lacking Seville oranges, a deep pit, and a whole young pig for this classic
dish, my slow-roasted version, made with pork butt cut from the shoulder,
produces an aromatic and deliciously tender taco filling. Spicy-tangy
Habañero Pickled Red Onions make a tasty and tangy foil for the meat. If
you have a backyard, use a “Caja China” roasting box to make a great
pibil.

Banana leaves, as needed

2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
1 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 cup achiote paste
3 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2½ pounds boneless pork butt, cut into cubes
2 oranges, quartered
2 carrots, cut in large dice
1½ white onions, diced
1 small stalk celery, cut in large dice
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
4 cups chicken stock
Fine sea salt
Habañero Pickled Red Onions [page 78]
14 corn tortillas, warmed
¾ cup thinly sliced scallions, mostly white parts or cilantro, for
garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Line a deep roasting pan with
foil. Add enough banana leaves to ensure they extend over the edges
of the pan and can be turned back over the meat to cover it.

2. In a small bowl, blend the orange and lime juices, achiote paste,
honey, and salt. Add the pork and turn to coat evenly with the
marinade. Add the oranges, carrots, onions, celery, peppercorns, and
bay leaves. Pour in the stock and season with salt.

3. Fold the leaves over so the pork is fully covered. Transfer to the
oven and roast until the meat is very tender, 12 to 14 hours.

4. Meanwhile, prepare the Habañero Pickled Red Onions.

5. Remove the meat from the oven, cool, and shred with two forks.
Add enough of the pan juices to keep the meat moist. Divide the meat
among the tortillas, add some Habañero Pickled Red Onions, drizzle
with scallions, and serve.
 PORK SHANK Tacos with
PICKLED Red CABBAGE
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Meltingly tender, perfectly spiced pork shanks make tacos that will cause
you and your guests to swoon with pleasure. Although the ingredient list is
long, this is really a simple recipe that yields juicy morsels of pork. You can
also try this with lamb shanks.
I first had these tacos at El Bosque, in Mexico City. It’s a true old school
cantina because women aren’t allowed in the bar; they can only enter the
dining room if accompanied by a man.

12 cloves garlic
4 tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered
2 medium white onions, coarsely chopped
4 tablespoons olive or blended oil, divided
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 black peppercorns
6 bay leaves
2 cloves
2 pieces star anise
2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted
6 dried ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed, toasted
6 dried guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed, toasted
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
3 or 4 large fresh banana leaves
5 medium-sized, bone-in pork shanks
2 cups chicken stock
16 corn tortillas, warmed
Salsa Roja Cruda [Fresh Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa] [page 194]
1 cup Pickled Red Cabbage [recipe follows]
1 cup crumbled queso fresco, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2. Toss the garlic, tomatillos, and onions with 1 tablespoon of the oil,
season with salt and pepper, spread on a baking sheet, and roast until
lightly browned, about 15 minutes, turning occasionally. Set aside.

3. Grind the peppercorns, bay leaves, cloves, anise, oregano, and

cumin in a clean coffee mill or spice grinder.

4. In a medium-sized saucepan, cover the toasted chiles with water

and bring to a simmer. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside
for a few minutes to cool. In the jar of an electric blender, combine the
tomatillo mixture along with the chiles, vinegar, and orange juice;
puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the peppercorn bay leaf
mixture, and set aside.

5. Line a roasting pan with banana leaves or parchment paper.

Season the shanks with salt and pepper, rub with half of the
marinade, lay them in the pan, and marinate for 1 hour to overnight.
Pour the remaining marinade over the top.

6. Before cooking, return the meat to room temperature, about 45

minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Pour in the
chicken stock. Fold the banana leaves over the meat, cover with
aluminum foil, and seal on all sides. Bake until the meat is fork-tender
and easily pulled away from the bone, 2 to 3 hours.

7. While the pork cooks, prepare the Salsa Roja Cruda and Pickled
Red Cabbage.

8. Remove the meat from the oven, transfer it to a bowl, and let it cool.
Pull the meat from the bones in medium-sized pieces. Strain the
cooking liquid into a bowl.

9. To serve, heat a tablespoon of the remaining oil in a large skillet

over medium-high heat. Add the pork pieces and brown on all sides,
turning often, and adding more oil as necessary. Ladle about 1 cup of
the cooking liquid onto the meat to moisten. Spoon the pieces into the
tortillas and serve with queso fresco, Salsa Roja Cruda, and Pickled
Red Cabbage.
PICKLED RED CABBAGE
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 head red cabbage, cored and shaved
1 small red onion, thinly sliced lengthwise
1 jalapeño, seeds and membranes removed, thinly sliced
lengthwise
Leaves from 2 sprigs oregano
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Fine sea salt

Pickled Red Cabbage

Combine the garlic, cabbage, onion, jalapeño, and oregano in a large
non-reactive bowl. Stir in the vinegar and sugar; season to taste with
salt and let stand for at least 2 hours to overnight before serving.
 Grilled ARAB-STYLE Tacos
with Jalapeño YOGURT
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Arab-style tacos are said to be an adaptation of the spit-roasted meats

prepared by Arabic-speaking immigrants who came to Mexico during the
19th and early 20th centuries. Many settled in Puebla and Mexico City, and
both regions claim them as their own. Traditionally, these tacos are made
with layered pork marinated in a secret recipe that varies from vendor to
vendor, then skewered on an upright spit, and served on thick flour tortillas
or pita breads. Our tacos are grilled and served with tangy, spicy Jalapeño
Yogurt. Jocoque, or strained Greek-style yogurt, also came to Mexico with
Arab immigrants.

16 ounces Greek yogurt

Juice of 5 limes
6 cloves garlic
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
Leaves from 1 sprig mint
Leaves from 1 sprig thyme
1 tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ cup olive oil
2 pounds pork loin, cut into slices
8 thick flour tortillas or 6-inch pita breads
Jocoque [Jalapeño Yogurt; recipe follows]
JALAPEÑO YOGURT
1 cup Greek yogurt
2-3 seeded jalapeños, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. In the jar of an electric blender, combine the yogurt, lime juice,

garlic, parsley, mint, thyme, oregano, cumin, and olive oil. Puree until
smooth. Put the pork in a flat, non-reactive container, pour on the
marinade, and refrigerate overnight or for at least 8 hours.

2. Prepare the Jalapeño Yogurt.

3. Heat a barbecue to medium or heat a large cast-iron skillet over

medium-high heat.

4. Remove the pork from the marinade, place directly on the grill
without blotting, and cook to medium, about 4 or 5 minutes each side,
turning once. Serve wrapped in thick tortillas drizzled with Jalapeño
Yogurt.

Jalapeño Yogurt
In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, jalapeños, garlic, cilantro,
ginger, coriander, and cumin. Season with salt and black pepper to
taste.
 CARNITAS Tacos with
SERRANO CHILE Salsa
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Pork simmered in Coca-Cola, orange juice, and condensed milk sounds

unusual, but it’s common in Mexico and practically a religion in
Michoacán. I think you’ll discover it’s quite delicious. Along with the
orangey-citrus flavor, the finished meat retains a hint of caramel from the
cola and creaminess from the milk.

8 pounds lard
4 pounds bone-in pork butt, cut into large cubes
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 cup Coca-Cola
1 [14-ounce] can sweetened condensed milk
10 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons whole peppercorns
1 large stick cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
Fine sea salt
Serrano Chile Salsa [recipe follows]
16 corn tortillas, warmed
1½ cups shredded white or red cabbage, for garnish
½ cilantro leaves, for garnish

SERRANO CHILE SALSA

½ cup apple cider vinegar
½ tablespoon sugar
2 whole allspice berries
2 tablespoons blended oil
½ cup minced white onions
8-10 serrano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
½ tablespoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 cup chopped cilantro

1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

2. In a large, deep pot, melt the lard. Add the pork, orange juice,
Coca-Cola, condensed milk, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns, canela,
and 2 teaspoons salt; bring to a simmer. Transfer the pot to the oven
and cook until tender, 1 to 2 hours.

3. Meanwhile, prepare the Serrano Chile Salsa.

4. Remove the pork from the oven. Heat on top of the stove over high
heat to brown the outside; taste to adjust the salt level. Cool slightly
and, using two forks, shred the meat into large chunks.

5. To serve, spoon the meat into the tortillas, top with a little cabbage
and cilantro, and drizzle with Serrano Chile Salsa.

Serrano Chile Salsa

1. In small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, and allspice;
simmer until the sugar dissolves. Set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a medium-sized skillet over medium heat. Stir in the
onions and cook until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the serranos,
allspice-vinegar syrup, and salt; gently simmer until the mixture binds
together, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool, fold in the lime juice and cilantro,
scrape into a food processor, and process until blended but still
slightly chunky. Taste to adjust the salt, if needed.
 MEATBALL Tacos in
Chipotle SAUCE
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Meatballs, popular around the world, are known in Mexico as albondigas

and are often served in soup. Here I use a very flavorful combination of
beef, pork, and veal to give the meat a rich flavor. A friend of my mom’s
from Milan, Italy, who was a wonderful cook, taught me how to make
meatballs; I use her secret recipe along with a few secrets of my own. Use
extra Chipotle Salsa for sandwiches and other tacos.

Chipotle Salsa [page 35]

1 cup chicken stock
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 large white onion, coarsely chopped
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped, plus a few reserved chopped
leaves for garnish
1 pound ground beef
1 pound ground pork
1 pound ground veal
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup grated Cotija cheese, or substitute Romano, plus ½ cup
more for garnish
¼ cup dried bread crumbs
¼ cup chile powder
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
½ cup blended oil for frying
16 corn tortillas, warmed
¾ cup thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

1. Make the Chipotle Salsa.

2. While the salsa is simmering, prepare the meatballs: In the jar of an

electric blender, combine the chicken stock with the garlic, onion, and
parsley; puree until smooth.

3. In a large bowl, combine the beef, pork, and veal with the eggs,
Cotija cheese, bread crumbs, chile powder, cumin, red pepper flakes,
and salt. Add the chicken stock mixture and gently mix until just
combined. Form into walnut-sized meatballs.

4. Heat the oil in a large casserole, add the meatballs in batches, and
brown evenly on all sides. Add the Chipotle Salsa, bring to a simmer,
and cook until the meatballs are cooked through, about 15 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, spoon two meatballs onto each tortilla, and add
the scallions, the remaining Cotija cheese, and the remaining chopped
fresh parsley.
 Isthmian-Style
MEAT LOAF Tacos
YIELD: 10 TACOS

Meat loaf isn’t only beloved in the United States. Throughout the Yucatán,
the beautiful, strong Tehuana women sell Isthmian-style meat loaf at the
stands or carts at markets and fiestas. The unique, tasty concoction is often
eaten at room temperature. It makes a perfect sandwich or,in this case,
taco. You can prepare the loaf 3 to 4 hours before baking, refrigerate it,
and then return it to room temperature before cooking. Serve with Pico de
Gallo.

2 thick slices bacon, cubed

2 ounces boiled ham, cubed
2 ounces smoked sausage, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 cup plain dry bread crumbs
⅓ cup canned evaporated milk
½ pound ground beef
½ pound ground pork
1 large egg, lightly beaten
¼ cup blanched almonds, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
½ [3½-ounce] can deviled ham
½ [2½-ounce) jar pimientos, drained and finely chopped
1 canned chipotle en adobo, minced
¼ cup pimiento-stuffed green olives, finely chopped
1½ tablespoons mayonnaise, not light variety
1½ tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 tablespoon thinly sliced pickled jalapeños
½ tablespoon Dijon mustard
Pico de Gallo [page 39]
10 corn tortillas, warmed
¾ cup shredded lettuce, for garnish
½ cup crumbled Cotija cheese, for garnish

1. In a heavy, medium-sized skillet, combine the bacon with 2

tablespoons of water and cook over medium-high heat for 5 minutes,
stirring frequently, until the water has evaporated and some of the fat
has been rendered. With a slotted spoon, remove the bacon and set
aside.

2. Strain the fat from the first pan (which will have a salty residue at
the bottom) into a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the
partly cooked bacon along with the ham and sausage. Cook until
lightly browned, about 3 minutes, stirring frequently.

3. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, transfer the meat mixture to a

bowl, leaving as much of the fat as possible in the pan. Discard all but
about 2 tablespoons of the fat. Add the garlic and onion and sauté
over medium-high heat until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes,
stirring often. Add to the meat mixture.

4. Meanwhile, in a medium-sized bowl, combine the bread crumbs

and evaporated milk and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes to absorb the
liquid while the meat mixture cools slightly.

5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

6. In a large bowl, lightly mix the beef and pork with the soaked bread
and beaten egg. Add the almonds, deviled ham, pimientos, chipotles,
olives, mayonnaise, parsley, jalapeños, and mustard. Mix thoroughly
with your hands. Pack the mixture firmly into a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan and
bake until golden brown, about 1 hour.

7. Prepare the Pico de Gallo, if serving. Remove the meat loaf from
the oven, let it rest for 15 minutes, then cut it into slices and serve hot
or, as in the Isthmus, at room temperature on tortillas. Garnish with
lettuce, Pico de Gallo, and Cotija cheese.
 CHORIZO and POTATO
Filled Tacos
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Mexican chorizo, unlike the cured Spanish sausages of the same name, is
sold raw, so it must be cooked through before using. When the seasoned
pork is sautéed with onions and potatoes, it’s a beloved and typical filling
used in quesadillas and tacos throughout the country. Add Pico de Gallo
and Cotija cheese and these tacos can be enjoyed anytime from breakfast
through dinner.

Salsa Verde [page 33]

Kosher salt
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
12 ounces Mexican chorizo sausage, casing removed [about 1½
cups]
½ cup finely chopped white onions
12 corn tortillas, warmed
½ cup crumbled Cotija cheese, for garnish
1 large avocado, preferably Hass variety, halved, seeded, peeled,
and sliced, for garnish

1. Make the Salsa Verde.

2. In a large saucepan, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add 2

teaspoons of salt and the potatoes and cook, covered, until just
tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain.

3. In a large skillet over medium heat, add the sausage meat and
sauté it along with the onions until the sausage is cooked through and
onions are tender, about 10 minutes, breaking up the meat with a
wooden spatula and stirring occasionally.

4. Drain and discard the excess fat. Add the potatoes to the skillet and
cook until they begin to brown, stirring often. Keep warm.

5. Spoon the filling onto the tortillas, drizzle with Salsa Verde, and
Cotija cheese, garnish with avocado slices, and serve.
 Crispy PORK BELLY Tacos with
Caramelized LADY APPLE Salsa
YIELD: 16 TACOS

With their succulent flesh and rich flavor, pork bellies are a decadent
indulgence that have become quite popular lately, especially with foodies.
In these tacos, I take them to an even more seductive level by serving them
with Caramelized Lady Apple Salsa. The small green-and-red-tinged
apples are mildly sweet with a tart note. I think you’ll love this
combination. Extra trimmings from the pork belly can be finely chopped
and added to pinto beans for another taco filling.

2 cups apple cider vinegar

1 cup kosher salt
½ cup sugar
3 allspice berries
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
4 bay leaves, divided
1 [4-pound] piece uncooked pork belly, skin scored into cubes
2 quarts chicken stock
½ cup maple syrup
6 chiles de árbol
Caramelized Lady Apple Salsa [recipe follows]
Blended oil for frying
16 corn tortillas, warmed
CARAMELIZED LADY APPLE SALSA
1 cup sugar
½ cup heavy cream
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
3 Lady apples, cored and quartered
1 habañero pepper, seeded and minced

1. In a large container, combine 2 quarts of cold water with the

vinegar, salt, sugar, allspice, peppercorns, coriander, and two of the
bay leaves. Soak the pork belly in the brine for 24 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

3. Remove the pork from the brine and lay it in a large, flat roasting
pan. Add the chicken stock, maple syrup, chiles de árbol, and the
remaining two bay leaves. Braise in the oven for 6 hours, spooning
the liquid over the pork several times.

4. Remove the pork and transfer it to a sheet pan. Cover with a flat
pan with several large, heavy cans on top (Number 10 cans work very
well). Let the pork press for 8 hours in the refrigerator. Slice into 1-
inch by ¼-inch-thick slices and reserve.

5. Make the Caramelized Lady Apple Salsa.

6. To serve: In a large, deep skillet, heat enough oil to measure 1½

inches deep until it’s hot. Drop six or seven slices of pork belly into the
oil at a time and fry until crisp, about 4 minutes. Season with kosher
salt, layer in the tortillas, top with Caramelized Lady Apple Salsa, and
serve.

Caramelized Lady Apple Salsa

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar with ¼ cup of water; bring
to a boil. Wash down any crystals on the sides of the pan with a wet
pastry brush. Boil until the syrup is a rich amber color, about 6
minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cream (it will
bubble up, so be careful) and butter. Stir in the apples and habañero
and set aside.
 BACON Tacos with
Chipotle AIOLI
YIELD: 12 TACOS

Bacon—quite possibly humankind’s greatest food invention—can be

consumed with anything. Tacos? Obviously!
For a great party appetizer, you can roll these up, secure with toothpicks,
and deep-fry them.

Chipotle Aioli [page 47]

1 pound thick-sliced smoked bacon
1 medium white onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
½ teaspoon chipotle chile powder
Fine sea salt
¾ cup very thinly sliced iceberg lettuce
¾ cup thinly sliced radishes
1½ tablespoons blended oil
½ tablespoon red wine vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
12 corn tortillas, warmed

1. Prepare the Chipotle Aioli.

2. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until deep
golden brown, turning often. Remove to paper towels to drain.
Reserve the fat in the pan. Cut the bacon into 1-inch strips and
transfer to a large bowl.

3. In the same pan, sauté the onion over medium heat until
caramelized, 7 to 8 minutes, stirring often. Scrape into the bowl with
the bacon and add the honey, ancho powder, and chipotle powder.
Season to taste with salt.

4. In a bowl, toss the lettuce and radishes with the oil and vinegar and
season with salt and pepper. Fill each tortilla with the bacon mixture.
Spoon on some lettuce and radishes, drizzle with Chipotle Aioli, and
serve two tacos per plate.
 GOAT Barbacoa
TACOS
YIELD: 16 TACOS

Throughout Mexico, barbacoa is an age-old tradition of marinating meats

in an aromatic paste, wrapping them in avocado and/or banana leaves, and
slowly roasting them for several hours or overnight in a deep pit in the
ground. The technique evolved in pre-Hispanic times long before people
had ovens. Almost every celebration includes barbacoa, and barbacoa
specialists are hired.
The choice of meat varies throughout the country, including young pigs and
lambs. In the north and central parts of the country, a young goat is
preferred. Here it is rubbed with chile paste and cooked until the meat is
fall-off-the-bone tender with subtle smoky flavors. Typically a whole animal
is pit-roasted, and then the shredded barbacoa meat is served with chopped
white onions, cilantro, and fresh chiles on the side.

3 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded

6 allspice berries
2 tablespoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
3 cloves garlic
½ white onion, chopped
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 [3-pound] leg of goat
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 fresh or frozen banana leaf, cut into 12 × 12-inch squares
10 avocado leaves
16 corn tortillas, warmed
1 cup each chopped white onions, cilantro, and fresh chiles, for
garnish

1. In a large saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to a boil. Toast the

chiles on the griddle on each side until fragrant, about 2 minutes per
side. Transfer to a bowl, cover with boiling water, and soak for 20
minutes. Drain and add them to the jar of an electric blender. Reserve
the liquid.

2. Meanwhile, in a clean coffee or spice grinder, combine the allspice,

oregano, and cumin; grind into a powder. Add this to the blender
along with the thyme, garlic, onion, vinegar, and ½ cup of the soaking
liquid. Puree into a smooth paste.

3. Score the goat leg into a diamond pattern, cutting it only ½-inch
deep, and season it liberally with salt and pepper. Line a roasting pan
with banana leaves, making sure they overlap the sides so they will
cover the goat, then add the avocado leaves. Rub the chile paste all
over the meat, lay it in the pan, and wrap the banana leaves around
the goat. Cover the pan tightly with plastic wrap or aluminum foil and
refrigerate overnight.

4. Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Remove the plastic or aluminum

covering from the pan and discard.

5. Roast the goat until very tender, 4½ to 5 hours, turning once about
halfway through. Drain the juices into a bowl and skim off the fat.
Shred the meat. Pour the juices back over the meat and toss to
combine.

6. Warm the corn tortillas. Divide the meat among the tortillas and
serve two tacos per person. Pass the onions, cilantro, and chiles at
the table.

VARIATIONS: Use a 3-pound leg of lamb or three or four meaty lamb

or pork shanks.
 RABBIT in
Adobo TACOS
YIELD: 16 TACOS

In pre-Hispanic Mexico, wild rabbits flourished and played an important

culinary role. Today they are more often farmed and still readily available.
I first tasted the meat at one of the string of roadside food stands along the
Toluca Highway outside Mexico City.
The meat in these easily prepared tacos is delicate and takes well to the
chiles and warm spices in the Abodo Sauce. As with most tacos, I prefer
that the meat isn’t too finely shredded because it’s more satisfying that
way. The tacos are paired with Pickled Ramps, an underappreciated
vegetable, also called a young leek. It tastes like a cross between onions
and garlic. Substitute scallionsfor the ramps or serve with Habañero
Pickled Red Onions (page 78).
Cut-up rabbits are available at many butchers. If you buy whole rabbits,
you could roast the loins and serve them roasted and sliced alongside this
dish, if desired.

Hind- and front quarters from 5 rabbits

10 peppercorns
3 cloves garlic
3 bay leaves
1 white onion, coarsely chopped
Adobo Sauce [recipe follows]
Pickled Ramps [recipe follows]
Chiles Torreados [recipe follows]
16 corn tortillas, warmed
1. In a large saucepan, add the rabbits, peppercorns, garlic, bay
leaves, and onion; pour in enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil,
reduce the heat, and simmer for 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the Adobo Sauce and Pickled Ramps.

3. Cool the rabbits in the liquid. Remove them, pull the meat from the
bones in large pieces, and reserve in a bowl. Reduce the broth by
half, stir in the Adobo Sauce, and strain over the meat. Divide the
meat among the tortillas and serve with the ramps and Chiles
Torreados.
ADOBO SAUCE
5 pasilla chiles, seeds and membranes removed
3 ancho chiles, seeds and membranes removed
3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
3 black peppercorns, crushed
3 sprigs fresh thyme
3 sprigs marjoram
3 whole cloves, crushed
½ stick cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela, crushed
¼ teaspoon cumin seeds, crushed
1 tablespoon white vinegar

PICKLED RAMPS
1 pound fresh ramps or scallions, trimmed and lightly blanched
in salted water
¾ cup sugar
¾ cup rice vinegar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ teaspoon ancho chile powder

CHILES TORREADOS
¼ cup olive oil
12 serrano chiles
12 Thai chiles
½ red onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2-4 tablespoons Maggi sauce
Juice of 2 limes
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Adobo Sauce
In a large bowl, soak the pasilla and ancho chiles in hot water to cover
for 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to the jar of an
electric blender, add ½ cup of the chile rehydrating water, and puree.
Add the garlic, peppercorns, thyme, marjoram, cloves, canela, cumin,
and vinegar; puree until smooth.

Pickled Ramps
Put the ramps or scallions in a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan,
combine ¾ cup water with the sugar, vinegar, salt, red pepper, and
chile powder. Bring to a boil. When the sugar dissolves, pour the liquid
over the ramps, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Chiles Torreados
YIELD: 2 CUPS

In taquerías, roasted chiles are an indispensable staple for adding a

spicy pick-me-up to tacos and just about anything else where you
want a little heat. Although best eaten right away, once roasted and
cooled, they can be refrigerated in a resealable plastic bag for a day.

In a medium-sized heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat

until hot. Add the chiles and sauté until they begin to blister, shaking
the pan frequently, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the onion and stir until soft.
Add the garlic and continue cooking until golden. Stir in the 2
tablespoons of Maggi and lime juice. Simmer to combine the flavors
and to reduce the liquid slightly. Season to taste with salt and pepper,
adding more Maggi sauce if desired.
SIDE DISHES
 Elote de la Calle
[MEXICO CITY-STYLE STREET CORN]
YIELD: 8 SERVINGS

Everybody loves corn the way they serve it in Mexico City. The seductive
aroma of charred corn husks coming from street vendor carts can be
smelled almost anywhere in the center of town, or near most markets. No
matter where you’re from or who you are, the grilled sweet corn painted
with butter and a little mayonnaise and salty Cotija cheese will seduce you.
Once the corn is cooked, if you cut it off the cob, it’s called esquites.

8 ears corn, shucked

½ cup melted unsalted butter
½ cup mayonnaise, not light variety
½ cup grated Cotija cheese
1 tablespoon chile powder
2 limes, cut into wedges

1. Heat the grill, a large skillet, or a broiler over medium-high heat.

Grill the corn until it’s hot and lightly charred all over, using tongs to
turn it.

2. Roll the ears in the melted butter and then spread with mayonnaise.
Sprinkle with Cotija cheese and chile powder and serve with lime
wedges.
 Avocado
CORN RELISH
YIELD: 4 CUPS

In this fresh-tasting side dish, diced roasted poblano chiles, crunchy bell
peppers, creamy avocados, and mildly charred-tasting corn kernels are a
colorful and tasty mixture. Grill the corn and vegetables while you are
grilling your steaks. Any extras can be enjoyed the next day if covered and
refrigerated.

5 ears corn, shucked and silk removed

4 green onions, light green and white parts, thinly sliced on the
diagonal
4 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch
dice
1 large red bell pepper, seeds and membranes removed, cut into
¼-inch dice
2 avocados, preferably Hass variety
½ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat a barbecue, grill, or broiler. Cook the corn until the kernels are
tender and some are charred, about 5 minutes, turning a couple of
times. Transfer the ears to a large mixing bowl and set aside to cool.
When they’re cool enough to handle, use a sharp paring knife to
remove the kernels from the cob, transferring them to a large bowl
along with the green onions, poblano chiles, and red pepper.
2. Peel, seed, and cut the avocados into ¼-inch dice. Add them to the
corn along with the vinegar and olive oil. Mix well, season to taste with
salt and pepper, and let the relish sit for 20 to 30 minutes to let the
flavors blend. Serve at room temperature.

CHEF’S TIPS
Use the green tops of scallions in salsa verde or salad dressings.
 LEMON-BASIL
Rice
YIELD: 3 CUPS

Although basil or “albahaca” in spanish, is not typically associated with

Mexican cuisine, it is used there both as a culinary and medicinal herb.
This rice is refreshingly light and pairs well with any of the tacos in this
book. It’s also great with seafood and poultry dishes.

1½ tablespoons unsalted butter

½ small onion, finely chopped
1 cups long grain rice
dash turmeric
1½ teaspoons lemon zest, divided
1½ cups chicken stock
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoons basil, cut in chiffonade
1½ teaspoons mint, cut in chiffonade
Fine sea salt

1. Melt the butter in a large sauce pan. Add the onions and saute until
translucent. Stir in the rice and turmeric and cook until grains of rice
are all coated and translucent. Add half of the lemon zest, the stock,
and the salt.

2. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer over low heat until tender, 20 to
25 minutes. Stir in the remaining lemon peel and herbs and serve.
 My Refried BEANS
YIELD: 6-8 SERVINGS

Refried beans seem like a natural partner for tacos and are often included
on platters with them. Too often, I find them boring. Hopefully that will not
be your experience with my Dos Caminos version scented with the deep
smoky flavor of avocado leaves and bacon.
When I was growing up in Denver, among the first foods my parents
ordered for my sister and me were black bean tacos in a small storefront
Mexican restaurant where we ate weekly. They’re a simple, approachable
food for any age. For a somewhat more grown-up version, check out
Drunken Beans on page 229.

1 pound dry black or pinto beans

2 avocado leaves
2 slices bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch strips
1 small white onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 jalapeños, seeds and membranes removed if desired, minced
½ cup lard
Juice of 1 lime
Fine sea salt
Crumbled Cotija cheese, for garnish [optional]

1. Rinse the beans and soak overnight in a large pot of cold water. (If
you don’t have time to soak overnight, put the beans into a pot and
cover with at least 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil, turn off the heat,
cover, and let sit for 1 hour.) The following day, add fresh water and
bring the pot of beans to a boil. Add the avocado leaves, turn the heat
down, and simmer until tender, 2 to 3 hours.

2. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until

golden brown. Add the onion and sauté until golden, about 10
minutes. Stir in the garlic and jalapeños and cook for about 3 minutes,
adding a little lard or bacon fat, if necessary, to keep the vegetables
from sticking.

3. Drain the beans and reserve the cooking liquid. Scrape the onion
mixture into a food processor along with about 2 cups of the cooked
beans; puree. Combine the puree with the remaining beans.

4. In a large, heavy casserole, melt the lard over medium-high heat.

Add the beans and fry for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add
the lime juice and season to taste with salt. If the mixture seems dry,
add some leftover bean water until you reach the desired consistency.
Serve topped with crumbled Cotija cheese, if desired.
 Drunken BEANS
YIELD: 6-8 SERVINGS

These beans are My Refried Beans dressed up with bacon, chipotles en

adobo, mustard, and the beer that gives them the name frijoles borrachos.
They’re a perfect side dish for any tacos, or with warm tortillas and salsa
as tacos in their own right.

1 pound pinto beans, soaked according to package directions

1 pound thin-sliced bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces
2 carrots, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 white onion, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
6 sprigs thyme, stemmed and finely chopped
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh oregano, preferably Mexican, finely
chopped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ cup tomato paste
½ teaspoon ground allspice
1 canned chipotle en adobo, minced
2 [12-ounce] cans Mexican beer, preferably Tecate or Negra
Modelo
Fine sea salt

In a large casserole, cook the beans in 4 quarts of water until just

tender. Drain and set aside. Cook the bacon in the same pan until
done but not too crispy. Add the carrots, garlic, onion, celery, thyme,
oregano, mustard, tomato paste, allspice, and chipotle; sauté until the
vegetables are tender. Stir in the beer, return the beans to the pot,
and simmer for 10 minutes to combine the flavors. Season to taste
with salt.
 Grilled NOPALES Salad
YIELD: 6-8 SERVINGS

Grilled cactus paddles, or nopales, are a traditional Mexican side dish.

When cooked over charcoal, they get a nice smoky taste, plus the heat firms
up the texture. Once they’re tossed with tomatoes, cucumbers, onion, and
Cotija cheese, then seasoned with serrano chiles, cilantro, and Cracked
Black Pepper Oil, the paddles are a satisfying salad for any outdoor (or
indoor) dining occasion.

1½ pounds fresh nopales cactus paddles

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt, divided
4 heirloom tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch dice
2 cucumbers, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
½ small red onion, cut into ¼-inch dice
2 medium serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced
1 cup chopped cilantro
½ cup finely grated Cotija cheese
½ cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6-8 red lettuce leaves
Cracked Black Pepper Oil [recipe follows]
1 avocado, preferably Hass variety, for garnish
CRACKED BLACK PEPPER OIL
¼ cup cracked black peppercorns
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1. To clean the cactus pads, use a large chef’s knife and work parallel
to each pad. Start at the top of each pad and pull the blade toward the
stem, using a gentle sawing motion, to remove all of the thorns. Rinse
well and pat dry.

2. Heat a barbecue or heavy ridged skillet until hot.

3. In a large bowl, toss the nopales with ¼ cup of the oil and ½
teaspoon of the salt. Lay the nopales on the grill and cook until they
turn dark green with grill marks and black patches, turning once, 3 to 5
minutes total. Return them to the bowl to cool to room temperature.
Cover and chill for 2 to 4 hours or overnight.

4. Slice the cactus into ½-inch pieces.

5. To serve, in a mixing bowl, combine the cactus, tomatoes,

cucumbers, onions, chiles, cilantro, and cheese with the remaining ½
cup of oil, the vinegar, remaining 1 teaspoon of salt, the oregano, and
the pepper. Toss well. Taste and adjust the seasonings, as
necessary. Prepare the Cracked Black Pepper Oil.

6. Line eight salad plates with lettuce leaves. Peel, seed, and slice the
avocado. Spoon on the salad, garnish with avocado, and sprinkle with
Cracked Black Pepper Oil.

Cracked Black Pepper Oil

In a small bowl, combine the peppercorns, oil, vinegar, and salt. Stir
before each use.
DESSERT
Tacos
 Canela-Dusted
DESSERT Tacos
YIELD: 8 TACOS

Baked cinnamon-sugar-crusted taco shells filled with ice cream and fruit
make a fun finale to any dinner, Mexican or otherwise. For added
indulgence, spoon on warm chocolate sauce, chopped walnuts, pecans, or
peanuts, and whipped cream.

¼ cup ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela

¼ cup fine sugar
Pinch fine sea salt
8 [6-inch or smaller] flour tortillas
2 tablespoons melted butter
Ice cream, flavor of your choice, softened slightly
Fresh fruit, such as berries, pineapple, and/or mango, again up to
you
Optional toppings: warm chocolate sauce, chopped walnuts,
pecans or peanuts, and whipped cream

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Tear eight 6-inch strips of

aluminum foil or parchment paper and bend them into a V shape.

2. In a small bowl, combine the canela, sugar, and salt. Brush both
sides of each tortilla with butter and sprinkle generously with
cinnamon-sugar. Place each tortilla on a sheet pan and fold over the
foil or parchment into a taco shell shape.

3. Bake until golden on one side, 8 to 10 minutes. Turn the tacos over
and bake until the second side is golden, another 5 minutes.

4. Cool completely and then build dessert tacos by filling the shells
with softened ice cream and adding your favorite toppings.
 DARK CHOCOLATE Tacos
with SOUR CHERRIES
YIELD: 8 TACOS

As a spectacular, if not traditional end to your meal, try these cocoa-

scented taco shells filled with cherries, dark chocolate, mascarpone, and
whipped cream.Place all the components in separate bowls and let
everyone make their own for a fun, fiesta dish.

1 cup confectioners’ sugar, divided equally

¼ cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons Dutch process cocoa powder
1 teaspoon cornstarch
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large egg whites, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon milk
¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate, plus shaved bittersweet
chocolate, for garnish
1 teaspoon canola oil
¼ cup crushed almonds
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup mascarpone cheese
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
2 teaspoons añejo tequila
½ cup finely chopped sour cherries
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with
parchment. Using red or yellow food coloring, draw four 5-inch circles
on the parchment. Suspend four thick wooden spoons crosswise over
the edges of four deep bowls.

2. Sift together ½ cup of the confectioners’ sugar with the flour, cocoa,
cornstarch, and salt. Whisk in the egg whites, milk, and vanilla.

3. Spoon 1 tablespoon of batter onto each circle, spreading the batter

to the edges of the circle using an offset spatula or the back of a
spoon. Bake for 5 to 6 minutes, loosen the edges with the spatula or
spoon, and carefully lift the circles off of the parchment. Working
quickly, gently drape each taco over the suspended wooden spoons,
gently shaping it into a taco shell. Cool completely. Repeat the
procedure to make eight shells.

4. Combine the chopped chocolate and oil in a bowl and microwave

on high power until the chocolate melts, about 1 minute, stirring after
30 seconds. Stir until smooth.

5. Spread about 1 teaspoon of the chocolate mixture on the top edges

of the outside of both sides of the cooled shells, and sprinkle with
about 1 teaspoon of the crushed almonds.

6. In a mixing bowl or stand mixer, whip the cream until firm. Do not
overwhip. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the mascarpone along with
the remaining ½ cup of sugar, canela, tequila, and sour cherries until
well combined. Spoon ⅓ cup of the filling into each shell and garnish
with shaved chocolate.
BEVERAGES
 CHILACAYOTA
Agua Fresca
YIELD: 8-12 SERVINGS

Aguas frescas are cool drinks made with water, fruit, and a sweetener
(typically sugar) and are commonly served by Mexican street vendors in
barrel-shaped clear jars called vitroleros. Meant to quench thirst, they are
usually not overly sweet. This delicious pre-Columbian agua fresca comes
from Oaxaca. It’s made with chilacayota, a relative of the spaghetti squash,
and is traditionally served with a scoop of cooling sorbet, such as lime.

1 [3-pound] chilacayota squash [most similar to spaghetti

squash, but any type may be used]
2 [6-ounce] cones piloncillo
2 [4-inch] sticks cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
1 pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into small dice
Grated zest of 1 lime

1. Split the squash in half, remove the seeds, and cut into medium-
sized cubes. Put it in a large pan with 2 quarts of water, the piloncillo,
and the cinnamon. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook
until the squash is soft and can be easily removed.

2. Using a slotted spoon, remove the squash from the pan and
remove the rind. Reserve the liquid. Return the squash to the pan with
the liquid and, using a potato masher or handheld blender, mash the
flesh until almost smooth.

3. Scrape the mixture into a bowl and cool to room temperature, then
refrigerate until very cold. Add the pineapple and lime zest and stir
until combined. Serve in tall glasses over ice.
 PRICKLY PEAR
Lemonade
YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

Prickly pears grow on the opuntia cactus. Called tunas in Spanish, they are
eaten either chilled or at room temperature, and also made into candy and
preserves. To enjoy the pears, you must carefully peel them and remove the
many little spines. If you’d rather skip that step, prickly pear nectar is also
available online. Four prickly pears yield about 1 cup of juice.

4 prickly pears
¼ cup sugar
Juice of 6 lemons, plus slices for garnish
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
4 cups ice

1. Peel the prickly pears: Put them in a large bowl of cold water. Fold
two or three sheets of paper towels together. Handling a pear on each
end, lift it from the water and place it on the towels. Keeping the
towels wrapped around most of the pear, use a small, sharp knife to
slice along the length of one side, cutting just through the skin. Using
the towels to protect your hands, peel the skin from the pear.

2. In the jar of an electric blender, puree the pears until smooth and
pour through a fine strainer. Return the strained puree to the blender
along with the sugar, lemon juice, canela, and ice; blend for 1 minute.
Pour into tall glasses, garnish with lemon slices, and serve.
 TAMARIND
Agua Fresca
YIELD: 8 SERVINGS

Sour tamarind is another popular flavor in Mexico. Used for everything

from medicine to candy, it was surely the inspiration for Sour Patch Kids.
The tangy and refreshing flavor is a nice counterbalance to spicy tacos.

16 large fresh tamarind pods [about 1 pound total]

1 cup granulated sugar [or more to taste]
Ice

1. In a large pot, bring 1 quart of water to a boil over high heat. Add
the tamarind pods and sugar and boil for 1 minute, stirring
continuously. Transfer to a non-reactive bowl and steep for about 2
hours. This time may be as little as 1 hour for very fresh pods or up to
2½ hours for older pods. Use your hand or a spoon to break up the
softened pods to free the pulp and the seeds.

2. Pour the mixture through a strainer, pressing on the solids to

extract as much liquid as possible. Discard solid. Or, if desired, puree
in an electric blender. Taste for strength and sweetness. If it is too
strong, add water; if too tart, add more sugar. Cover and refrigerate
until you’re ready to serve. Stir before serving and pour over ice or
serve cold without ice.
 SWEET HIBISCUS
Punch
YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

When dried jamaica, or “hibiscus,” flowers are steeped in boiling water

and sugar, then cooled, they become a beautiful garnet-colored punch that
is a little bit sweet, a little bit tart, and super refreshing with a spicy taco.

2 cups [2 ounces] dried jamaica flowers [hibiscus], sold in Latin

grocers and online
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 [3-inch] piece fresh ginger, cut into ½-inch slices
Ice

1. In a large pot, bring 6 cups of water to a boil. Add the flowers,

sugar, and ginger and stir continuously for 1 minute while the mixture
boils and the sugar dissolves. Transfer to a stainless-steel or glass
bowl and steep for 2 hours.

2. Pour the mixture through a strainer, pressing on the flower solids to

extract as much liquid as possible. Taste for strength and sweetness.
If it is too potent, add a little water; if it’s too tart, add more sugar.
Cover and refrigerate until chilled and time to serve. Serve over ice.
 FROZEN Margarita
YIELD: 2 SERVINGS

Here are the basics to make a perfect frozen margarita. There’s absolutely
no substitute for freshly squeezed lime juice in a margarita. Keep Simple
Syrup in the refrigerator for those emergency margaritas or to sweeten
iced tea or an agua fresca.

2 tablespoons Simple Syrup [recipe follows]

1 tablespoon Lime-Salt-Sugar [recipe follows]
1 cup crushed ice
3 ounces 100 percent agave silver tequila
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
½-1 teaspoon orange liqueur
Lime wedges, for garnish

SIMPLE SYRUP
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

LIME-SALT-SUGAR
Zest of 1 lime
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons sugar

1. Make the Simple Syrup and Lime-Salt-Sugar.

2. In the jar of an electric blender, add the ice, tequila, lime juice,
Simple Syrup, and orange liqueur. Cover and blend on high speed
until smooth.

3. Pour the Lime-Salt-Sugar onto a plate. Press the rims of two chilled
rocks glasses or wineglasses into the mixture to rim the edge. Strain
the margarita into the glasses and serve garnished with lime wedges.

Simple Syrup
YIELD: 1½ CUPS

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and water and cook over low
heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Remove and cool. Store extra
syrup in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Lime-Salt-Sugar
YIELD: ¼ CUP

Combine the lime, salt, and sugar in a small blender or mini food
chopper and blend until finely chopped.
 SUMMER PEACH
Margarita
YIELD: 4 MARGARITAS

When white tequila is shaken with lime juice, peach puree, and agave
nectar and set off by a piquant-sweet edge on the glass, it’s a Mexican
welcome to summer. One hundred percent agave tequila is the sure way to
avoid the hangover you had in college from drinking too much mixto—you
know the one: We all had it.

Pink Peppercorn Blend to rim glasses [recipe follows]

¼ lime
¾ cup 100 percent agave silver tequila
½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup fresh peach puree
2 tablespoons agave nectar
Ice

PINK PEPPERCORN BLEND

½ cup salt
½ cup sugar
¼ cup pink peppercorns

1. Make the Pink Peppercorn Blend and pour into a small, flat bowl.
Run the lime along the top edge of four cocktail glasses and dip them
into the mixture.

2. In a large mixing glass, combine the tequila, lime juice, peach

puree, and agave nectar; shake 20 times. Add ice to the glasses and
strain the margarita mixture into them. Serve at once.

Pink Peppercorn Blend

In a clean spice or coffee grinder, combine the salt, sugar, and
peppercorns. Grind until fine.
 Sangrita
YIELD: AT LEAST 12 SERVINGS

The name of this fiery Mexican drink means “little blood.” This spicy and
addictive aperitif is served chilled alongside a shot of tequila for sipping.
Traditionally it’s made with the juice of tomatoes, oranges, limes, and
chiles.

2 cups tomato juice

1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
¾ cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon Maggi sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon Valentina or other hot sauce
1 cup Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 bottle premium tequila, to serve as shots on the side

1. In a large container, mix together the tomato, orange, grapefruit,

and lime juices.

2. Add the pomegranate molasses, Maggi, Worcestershire, Valentina,

and Tabasco sauces along with the salt. Stir to blend.

3. Refrigerate or serve on ice with a shot of tequila on the side.

 BLUE POM
Margarita
YIELD: 2 SERVINGS

This margarita, made with blueberry-pomegranate juice, is not only bright

and fresh tasting, but also a beautiful color. It is one of the most popular
margaritas at Dos Caminos.

Ice
3 ounces 100 percent agave silver tequila
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons agave nectar
1 tablespoon blueberry-pomegranate juice
Fresh blueberries, for garnish

1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add the tequila, lime juice, agave
nectar, and blueberry- pomegranate juice. Cover and shake until
mixed and chilled, about 30 seconds.

2. Strain the margarita into two glasses over fresh ice. Garnish with
fresh blueberries.
 MICHELADA
YIELD: 1 SERVING

More sophisticated than simply a beer with a squeeze of lime, and one of
the most popular ways to quench even the biggest thirst, the Michelada has
as many variations as there are bartenders. However, all rely on salty,
sweet, and umami tastes. This is mine.

Coarse salt, for rimming the edge of the glass

Ice
½ lime
1 splash pineapple juice
2 dashes Mexican hot sauce
2 dashes Maggi sauce or Worcestershire sauce
1 bottle Mexican beer, dark or light according to taste
1. Dip the rim of a highball or pilsner glass in the salt.

2. Fill the glass with ice. Squeeze in the lime, add the pineapple juice,
hot sauce, and Maggi, and pour the beer over the ice.
 CHILES
Explained
CHILES, EXPLAINED

Chiles pictured, from left:

(first row) Pasilla Negro, Brown Chipotle, Bird (Thai), Mulato
(second row) Serrano, Jalapeno, Chili de Arbol, Ancho
(third row) Cascabel, Guijillo, Poblano, Habenero

Fresh and dried chiles bring an enormous variety of flavors to Mexican

dishes. While working with them isn’t complicated, for those of you
who haven’t used them before, I have some suggestions.
First, remember to wear gloves! Touching chiles and then your
eyes can be really irritating. Also, while I often leave the seeds and
membranes in chiles, these are the hottest parts of the peppers.
Remove them if you prefer to diminish the heat.
When buying dried chiles, look for those that are unbroken with a
deep color and that smell fresh. Store them in airtight containers
(preferably separated and labeled) in a cool, dry spot out of the sun.
Plastic bags are vulnerable to pests. Dried chiles will remain viable for
at least 6 months.

Fresh:
Jalapeño chiles (above) take their name from Jalapa, the capital of
Veracruz, Mexico. The smooth, dark green chiles turns bright red
when ripe. They range from mildly hot to very hot. Jalapeños generally
are about 2 inches long, have rounded tips, and are quite popular
because they’re so easily seeded (the seeds and veins are very hot).
In their dried form, jalapeños are known as chipotles.
Habañero chiles are among the hottest chile peppers. They are
native to the Caribbean, the Yucatán, and the north coast of South
America. Small and lantern-shaped, habañeros range from light green
to bright orange when ripe. Generally they are used for sauces in both
fresh and dried form.
Poblano chiles (below) are dark green with a mild, rich flavor.
Generally about 4 to 5 inches long, they taper from top to bottom in a
triangular shape. Poblanos are found in central Mexico, though they
are now grown in the U.S. Southwest as well. In their dried state
they’re known as ancho or mulato chiles.
 Serrano chiles are about 1½ inches long. The slightly pointed chile
has a very hot, savory flavor. As it matures, its green skin turns bright
red, then yellow. Serranos can be used fresh or cooked in various
dishes such as guacamole and salsa. The dried serrano chile is called
chile seco and is generally used in sauces.

Dried:
Ancho chiles are ripened and dried poblano chiles. Triangular in
shape—broad at the top and tapered to a blunt tip at the bottom—and
deep red in color with wrinkled, shiny skin, they average 4½ inches in
length and 3 inches across the top. Most are mild with a fruity, slightly
acid flavor, but, depending on where they were grown, the soil, the
amount of water received during the growing season, and the climate
of the land, some may be quite hot. While they’re similar in size and
shape to mulato chiles, you can tell the difference by holding them up
to a light: Anchos will have a reddish hue, and mulatos will be
chocolate brown.
Chiles de árbol ripen to bright red and are then dried. This
smooth-skinned, slender chile tapers to a sharp point and typically
measures about 3 inches long and ⅜-inch wide. Thin-fleshed and
very, very hot, árbol chiles develop a sharp flavor when lightly toasted.
You find them often used for hot table sauces, for frying whole and
adding to dishes, like a pot of beans, or ground into a powder as part
of a recipe or as a condiment for sliced fruit, cucumbers, or jicama.
Cascabel chiles are a deep reddish color and round in shape with
a smooth polished surface. The name means “small bell,” and the
chiles rattle when shaken. Cascabels are available throughout Mexico
and most often used in table sauces. They are more frequently
incorporated into dishes in central-western and northern parts of the
country. They are pleasantly hot and nutty and measure on average
about 1¼ inches wide and 1 inch long. When rehydrated, these chiles
become quite fleshy.
 Chipotle chiles are ripened, smoke-dried jalapeños. The name is
derived from the Nahuatl words for “chile” (chil) and “smoke” (pectli).
There are two varieties of chipotles: the mora, which is mulberry-
colored, and the larger meco, which is tobacco brown (it is grown red
and dries to that color). The average chipotle is 2½ inches long and
about 1 inch wide, is very spicy, and becomes quite fleshy when
rehydrated. The versatile chipotle is used for pickling, as well as for
flavoring soups, sauces, fish, and meat dishes. Canned chipotles en
adobo are commonly used in Mexican cooking.
 Costeño chiles are grown in Northern Oaxaca and Coastal
Guerrero, as the name implies, as well as the Mixteca Baja, where
they are used almost exclusively. The chiles average about 3½ inches
in length and ½-inch wide, tapering to a pointed tip; they’re a rich
bronzy red color with a thin, almost transparent, shiny skin. Most often
they are dried, though sometimes they may be sold when ripe, but still
green. Costeños range in sharpness from very hot to pleasantly mild.
A less popular bronzy yellow variety from the same area is usually
used toasted and ground with garlic, salt, and water for a rustic table
sauce, sometimes with tomatoes added.
Guajillo chiles (opposite page), along with ancho chiles are
among the most commonly used chiles in Mexico. The name means
“big pod.” Inexpensive and readily available, the chiles are reddish in
color with a tough, opaque, shiny, smooth skin. Shaped like an
elongated triangle with narrow shoulders tapering to a pointed tip, an
average-sized guajillo measures 5 inches long and 1¼ inches across
the top. They have a crisp, sharp flavor that varies from fairly hot to
very hot. When rehydrated, guajillos are fleshy inside, but their skin
remains tough, so sauces made with them are usually strained.
Guajillos are versatile and used for table sauces, enchiladas, adobos
(seasoning pastes), and stews.
 Mulato chiles get their name from their brown color. The plant is
like a poblano with slightly different genes that affect the color and the
taste of the fruit. When mature, these chiles are a very dark green that
deepens to a rich brown as they ripen. Mulatos range from mild to
fairly hot and have a sweetish taste that, along with their color, makes
them perfectly suitable for mole poblano. When rehydrated, they are
fleshy and have a mild, faint chocolate taste.
Pasilla chiles are the dried form of chilaca chiles. The name
simply means “large”; they are also known as negro chiles in some
parts of Mexico. Pasillas are long and narrow with blunt or slightly
pointed ends and shiny black, puckered skin and vertical ridges. On
average they are about 6 inches long and 1 inch wide. Pasillas range
from hot to fairly hot and when rehydrated have a sharp but rich flavor.
Also very versatile, pasillas can be used in table sauces and moles, or
stuffed, fried whole, or cut into strips for a garnish.
Pasilla de Oaxaca chiles are unique and delicious chiles used
almost exclusively in Oaxaca and in a limited part of neighboring
Puebla. They are grown in small quantities in isolated valleys in
rugged terrain. Usually left to ripen on the plant and then smoked in
rustic conditions, they tend to be fruity and smoky, but also extremely
hot. Like the pasilla, the chile has a shiny, wrinkled skin, and pointed
tip; it varies in length and is fleshy when rehydrated. This rare chile is
expensive, and usually sold by count of 100 rather than by weight.
GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY

With the increased popularity of Mexican and other ethnic foods

across America, most of these ingredients are available in Latin
grocery stores, in local supermarkets, or from online purveyors.

Achiote paste is made by grinding annatto seeds, spices, garlic,

and vinegar or lime juice together until smooth. It is popular in the
Yucatán Peninsula.
Adobo is a tangy combination of chiles, garlic, and vinegar along
with tomatoes and spices that is used as a marinade or sauce to
season meat or poultry dishes.
Avocados are extremely popular in Mexican cooking. The
California Hass variety with its dark green, bumpy skin is more
flavorful and less watery.
Avocado leaves have an anise-like flavor and are used dried and
fresh to season stocks, soups, and sauces.
Banana leaves are quite pliant and used to wrap meat dishes, like
barbacoa, especially in and around Oaxaca. They are sold frozen at
specialty markets.
Canela, or Mexican cinnamon sticks (at right), are softer in texture
and milder tasting than American cinnamon that comes from cassia
bark. They’re also easier to grind.
Chile powder is made from ground dried chile peppers. It can be
made with a blend of several chiles or from just one variety, such as
ancho or chipotle, and can range from mild to fiery hot.
Chipotles en adobo are smoked jalapeños packed in adobo sauce
and canned. They are now also available already pureed and canned.
Chorizo in Mexico, unlike Spanish or Portuguese sausage with the
same name, is always purchased raw; remove the casing before you
cook with it. The pork meat is seasoned with ground red chiles,
paprika, and sometimes achiote, which give it its characteristic reddish
color.

Cilantro is among the most commonly used herbs in Mexican

cuisine. Both the stem and leaves are used. The plant was introduced
into Mexico by Spanish conquerors; the seeds of the plant are called
“coriander.”
Crema is Mexican sour cream. I prefer Media brand, by Nestlé. It is
readily available online. If you can’t find it, you can mix American sour
cream thinned with heavy cream to a smoother consistency, or
substitute crème fraîche or Greek yogurt in most recipes.
Epazote is an important Mexican culinary herb that tastes like a
mix of mint, basil, and oregano. The long, jagged, pointy leaves
become more assertive as the plant ages, so younger leaves are
preferable. Epazote is a popular addition to bean dishes because it is
said to reduce flatulence. Use oregano as a substitute.
Huitlacoche (or cuitlacoche) is a fungus that grows on ears of
Mexican corn. During the growing season, the smoky-sweet flavored
delicacy, also called “Mexican truffle” or “Mexican caviar,” is frozen or
canned for export if it is not eaten fresh.
Jamaica flowers are the beautiful fuchsia-colored blossoms of the
hibiscus tree that are dried and used in beverages like agua de
jamaica, sorbets, and granitas.
Jicama is a crunchy slightly sweet-tasting tuber known as Mexican
potato. It has light brown skin and almost white flesh. To peel jicama,
use a sharp paring knife to pull off the fibrous skin in sheets. It is
easier than using a vegetable scraper.
Lard has long been the fat of choice in Mexican cuisine, where it
imparts a distinctive flavor to traditional preparations like masa for
tamales. Americans now realize that lard makes pastry flaky and that
it has less saturated fat than butter.
Maggi sauce is a condiment, much like Worcestershire sauce,
that’s frequently used in Mexican marinades, stews, and sauces. It is
very salty, so just a dash is all you need.
Masa harina is cornmeal or corn flour typically sold in 1-kilo (2.2-
pound) bags. It’s used for tamales and tortillas. There are different
grinds, from fine to coarse, as well as different colors, including blue.
The term masa refers to any type of “dough.” I use Maseca brand.
Mexican oregano is widely used in the cuisine of Mexico. It is
usually purchased dried or in flakes and is slightly sweeter and a little
stronger than Greek, Italian, or Sicilian varieties. It is readily available
online.
Nopales are the paddles from young cactus plants. The needles
must be removed before they are marinated and grilled or used in
other preparations. (See page 230.)
Onions used in Mexican cooking are usually white, but the yellow
variety is acceptable.
Piloncillo (below) is unrefined Mexican dark brown sugar that is
sold in solid cone shapes with flattened tops. The cones are sold in
sizes from under an ounce to more than half a pound. While it’s firmer
in texture than American brown sugar, the two can be used
interchangeably. However, piloncillo must be chopped with a serrated
knife before using.
 Pimentón de la Vera is Spanish smoked paprika that is available
in sweet (mild) and hot varieties.
Plantains are similar to bananas but starchier and less sweet. A
plantain is ripe when it is black and soft. They are readily available
today in supermarkets.
Queso blanco is a creamy, soft, and mild white cheese generally
made from whole cow’s milk. It is fresh rather than aged. It does not
melt well but softens when heated and is used for frying. It is similar to
queso fresco..
Queso Chihuahua is made from cow’s milk in the state of
Chihuahua. One of the most popular Mexican cheeses, it is high in
butterfat with a flavor similar to mild cheddar. When aged, it becomes
tangy tasting. It’s typically used in chiles rellenos, Mexican-style
fondue, and quesadillas. Good-quality Muenster or medium cheddar
can be used in its place.
Queso Cotija is an aged, white, salty, crumbly cheese named for
the town in Michoacán where it was first made. When heated, it
softens but doesn’t actually melt. It is similar to feta when fresh, or to
Parmesan when aged. You can substitute feta, Romano, or
Parmesan.
Queso fresco, as the name implies, is fresh, unaged cow’s-milk
cheese that is produced all over Mexico. Other local names include
queso de metate, queso molido, and queso ranchero. The cheese is
used fresh, as a table cheese, crumbled as a topping, or as a stuffing
for chiles or quesadillas because it melts well. It has a pleasant acidity
and creaminess.
Queso Menonita is a mild, semisoft cheese made from either
pasteurized or raw cow’s milk, It is similar in taste to Monterey Jack. In
Northern Mexico, several Mennonite communities procQuesillo
Oaxaca is a whole-milk cow’s cheese from the Central Valley of
Oaxaca that is creamy-colored with a pleasantly acidic bite. Typically
the cheese is sold as wound balls. It melts well and can be shredded
and used to top appetizers or as a filling for quesadillas or chiles
rellenos.
Queso Requesón is similar to ricotta with a mild, somewhat sweet
flavor. White, with a soft, moist texture, it is used in salads, tacos,
cooked foods, and dessert.
Salt is important in cooking, but if it is iodized, I think it imparts a
metallic taste. I suggest using either kosher or fine or coarse sea salt,
as indicated by the recipe.
Tacos are usually made with fresh corn tortillas folded in half and
filled with any combination of meat, cheese, vegetables, and
condiments including tomatoes, lettuce, and salsa.
Tamarind paste is the acidic-sweet-tasting pulp surrounding the
seeds of the tamarind pod. It has many uses, including agua fresca
and Tamarind Braised Short Ribs (page 183).
Tomatillos, members of the gooseberry family, resemble small
green tomatoes with a papery husk covering that is removed before
using. They’re slightly tart but very flavorful. They are used in many
sauces, especially salsa verde.
Tortillas are thin, circular disks of unleavened dough made of
masa for corn tortillas or harina for flour tortillas. They are the most
important item in Mexican cuisine.
Valentina hot sauce is my favorite brand of hot sauce, although
there are plenty of other brands out there including Cholula, another
great brand.
Mexican cheeses, from left to right:
Cotija, Queso Fresco, Fresco, Menonita, Oaxaca
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

As most cookbook authors discover, it takes far more than a

passionate chef to write a book that others will want to read, find
useful, and enjoy owning. Dos Caminos Tacos was just such a
collaborative effort among me and many friends, colleagues, and
family members. Throughout my career, my mother, Charlene, and
father, Russ, along with my sister, Holly, have always been
enthusiastic and proud supporters. And although my immediate family
isn’t around the corner, Frida and Diego, my faithful and affectionate
dachshunds, eagerly await my return home and never fail to put a
smile on my face even after (or especially after) a long, stressful day.
My sincerest gratitude goes to Stephen Hanson, the founder and
president of BR Guest Hospitality, who continues to encourage me to
expand my horizons and let me write this, my second book for Dos
Caminos. Donna Rodriguez, our vice president of marketing, was a
huge supporter from the conception of the book to its completion.
Dos Caminos’s executive sous-chef Joy Strang was invaluable in
methodically testing the recipes and making the food photo-ready. Her
commitment to this project was beyond extraordinary. Executive chef
David Chiavaroli also helped test the recipes, especially inthe
beginning.
I’m forever grateful to Cara Gambardella and Wendy Schlazer, my
counterparts in the front-of-the-house operations at Dos Caminos; Dos
Caminos’s executive chefs: David Chiavaroli on Park Avenue, Roberto
Hernandez in the Meatpacking District, Brian Mannett in SoHo,
Michael Penaranda on Third Avenue, Elizabeth Barlow in Fort
Lauderdale, Florida, and Ryan Ebbs in Atlantic City, New Jersey; and
the staff in all of the kitchens and dining rooms, for your unfailing
professionalism and friendship. You inspire me every day. I’m also
grateful to all of the support staff in the corporate offices at BR Guest
Hospitality, as well as my fellow chefs and managers who willingly
have shared ideas, friendship, and advice through the years.
Additionally, I am so grateful to my current and past mentors: Chris
Giarraputo, Brett Reichler, Normand Laprise, Andy D’Amico, Gary
Robins, Mary Sue Milliken, Susan Feniger, and Ricardo Zurita Munoz.
I also love to read about food. The books that have influenced me
recently are Hank Shaw’s Hunt, Gather, Cook for the dedication to
honest food. His book and wonderful blog make me think every day
about where my food comes from. Maricel E. Presilla, The New Taste
of Chocolate: A Cultural and Natural History of Cacao with Recipes,
which goes beyond anything I have read on Mexico’s most beloved
native delicacy. And I always go back to my Betty Crocker cookbook
to dream. The illustrations and photos are of my childhood, and I have
a deep nostalgia for that wonderful time in my life.
Thanks to Noah Fecks, our extraordinarily talented photographer,
for his lively and creative pictures, and Ann Treistman, our editor at
The Countryman Press/W. W. Norton, for ardently championing this
project.
And finally, thanks to Joanna Pruess, my collaborator. I’m not a
writer by any means but a chef who is passionate about Mexican food
and who loves to share with food lovers. This book would not have
been possible without Joanna by my side to help me translate my
thoughts to paper. Thank you for everything.

—Ivy Stark
INDEX

Page numbers listed correspond to the print edition of this book. You
can use your device’s search function to locate particular terms in the
text.

Note: Page references in italics indicate recipe photographs.

A
Achiote paste, about, 264
Adobo, about, 264
Adobo Sauce, 220
Aioli
Avocado, 46
Chipotle, 47
Cracked Black Pepper, 48, 49
Lime, 114
Roasted Jalapeño Lime, 104
Sriracha Lime, 132
Almonds
Chicken Picadillo Tacos, 147
Apple(s)
Canela Applesauce, 81
-Cranberry Salsita, 54
Lady, Caramelized, Salsa, 212, 213
Onion Pico de Gallo, 40
Pickled, and Walnuts, Collard Greens Tacos with, 68, 69
Red Cabbage Fennel Slaw, 108, 109
Applesauce, Canela, 81
Apricots
 Chicken Picadillo Tacos, 147
Asparagus and Avocado, Grilled, Tacos, 58, 59-60, 61
Avocado leaves, about, 264
Avocado(s)
about, 264
Aioli, 46
and Asparagus, Grilled, Tacos, 58, 59-60, 61
Corn Relish, 226
Grilled Hot and Smoky Shrimp Tacos, 126, 127
Grilled Pineapple Black Olive Salsa, 168
Guacamole, 44, 45
Heirloom Tomato Pico de Gallo, 124
Mango Slaw, 112
Smoked Swordfish Tacos with Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 120,
121
Tacos Baja-Style with Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, 62-63
Tuna in Chayote Taco Shells with Tomato Serrano Salsita, 116-17

B
Bacon
Carne Parrillada Tacos with Chiles Rajas, 191-92
Drunken Beans, 229
-Fat-Pickled Jalapeño Mayonnaise, 50
Mexican Hot Dog Tacos, 198, 199
Michoacán-Style Beef Tenderloin Tip Tacos, 188
Tacos with Chipotle Aioli, 214, 215
Baja-Style Cod Tacos with Roasted Tomato Rémoulade, 106, 107-8
Baja-Style Fish Tacos with White Sauce, 101
Banana leaves, about, 264
Bean(s)
Black, Corn, and Mango Salsa, 100
Black, Pico de Gallo, 41
Black, Spicy, and Ancho Glaze, Grilled Sweet Potato Tacos with,
86, 87
 Black, Zucchini, and Corn Tacos with Salsa Verde, 95
Colorado Kash, and Sweet Potato Tacos, 75
Drunken, 229
Lobster Tacos Puerto Nuevo Style, 133
Marinated Chicken Supremo Tacos with Chicharonnes, 154, 155-
56
Octopus Ceviche Tacos, 136, 137
Refried, My, 228
White, Refried, 60
Beef
Brisket Tacos with Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage, 174, 175-76
Carne Parrillada Tacos with Chiles Rajas, 191-92
Cascabel Chile Marinated Carne
Asada Tacos with Caramelized
Onions, Pico de Gallo, and Cotija Cheese, 187
Chile and Beer Braised Brisket Tacos,177
Corned, and Cabbage Tacos, 178, 179
Dried, and Scrambled Egg Tacos, Nuevo León Style, 180, 181
Isthmian-Style Meat Loaf Tacos, 210
Meatball Tacos in Chipotle Sauce, 208, 209
Mexican Hot Dog Tacos, 198, 199
Picadillo Tacos, 193
-Stuffed Gorditas with Habañero Salsa, 184-86, 185
Surf-and-Turf Tacos Tampiqueña-Style
with Pasilla de Oaxaca Tomatillo
Salsa, 130-32, 131
Tamarind Braised Short Rib Tacos, 182, 183
Tenderloin Tip Tacos, Michoacán-Style, 188
Tongue Tacos in Fresh Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa, 194, 195
Beer
-Battered Fried Fish, 105
and Chile Braised Brisket Tacos, 177
Drunken Beans, 229
Michelada, 252, 253
Beet, Swiss Chard, and Goat Cheese Tacos, 88, 89
Beverages
Blue Pom Margarita, 250, 251
Chilacayota Agua Fresca, 240
Frozen Margarita, 246, 247
Michelada, 252, 253
Prickly Pear Lemonade, 241, 241
Sangrita, 249, 249
Summer Peach Margarita, 248
Sweet Hibiscus Punch, 244, 245
Tamarind Agua Fresca, 242, 243
Blender, 17
Blue Pom Margarita, 250, 251
Brisket Tacos with Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage, 174, 175-76
Broth, My Chicken, 145

C
Cabbage
Baja-Style Fish Tacos with White Sauce, 101
Blue Cheese, and Walnut Tacos, 64, 65
Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, 63, 63
and Corned Beef Tacos, 178, 179
Grilled Hot and Smoky Shrimp Tacos, 126, 127
Red, Fennel Apple Slaw, 108, 109
Red, Ginger Pickled, 176, 176
Red, Pickled, 203, 203
Slaw, Spicy, 178, 179
Canela
about, 264
Applesauce, 81
-Dusted Dessert Tacos, 234, 235
Carne Parrillada Tacos with Chiles Rajas, 191-92
Carrots
Pickled Vegetables, 123
Smoke-Roasted Root Vegetable Tacos, 94
Cast-iron skillets, 17
Chayote
about, 117
Grilled Summer Vegetable Tacos, 92-93
removing skin from, 117
Taco Shells, 117
Cheese
Blue, Walnut, and Cabbage Tacos, 64, 65
Butternut Squash Cojita Tacos, 66, 67
Carne Parrillada Tacos with Chiles Rajas, 191-92
Elote de la Calle (Mexico City-Style Street Corn), 224, 225
Goat, Plantain Gorditas with Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa,
78, 79
Goat, Swiss Chard, and Beet Tacos, 88, 89
Mexican Hot Dog Tacos, 198, 199
Nuevo León Style Dried Beef and Scrambled Egg Tacos, 180, 181
quesillo Oaxaca, about, 266
queso blanco, about, 265
queso Chihuahua, about, 266
queso Cotija, about, 266
queso fresco, about, 266
queso Menonita, about, 266
queso Requesón, about, 266
Roasted Pepper and Chile Tacos Potosinas-Style with Tomatillo
Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa, 76, 77
Cherries, Sour, Dark Chocolate Tacos with, 236, 237
Chicharonnes, 156
Chicken
Broth, My, 145
Carnitas Tacos, 146
Chicharonnes, 156
Chorizo and Potato Tacos, 142, 143
Fried, Tacos, 152, 153
Grilled Lime Tacos, Easy, 150, 151
 Liver, Chopped, Tacos, 160-61, 161
Marinated, Supremo Tacos with Chicharonnes, 154, 155-56
Meatball Tacos, 144-45
Picadillo Tacos, 147
Thigh, Smoked, Tacos with Watermelon Pico de Gallo, 158, 159
Tinga Tacos, 148, 149
Wood-Charcoal-Grilled, Tacos, 140, 141
Chilacayota Agua Fresca, 240
Chile powder, about, 264
Chile(s). See also Chile(s) (about)
Adobo Sauce, 220
Ancho, Vinaigrette, 51
Ancho-Maple Glaze, 87
Apple Onion Pico de Gallo, 40
Avocado Aioli, 46
Avocado Corn Relish, 226
Bacon-Fat-Pickled Jalapeño Mayonnaise, 50
and Beer Braised Brisket Tacos, 177
Cascabel, Marinated Carne Asada Tacos with Caramelized
Onions, Pico de Gallo, and Cotija Cheese, 187
Charred Pineapple Habañero Hot Sauce, 102
Chile de Árbol Salsa, 156
Chiles Rajas (Three-Colored Pickled Peppers), 192
Chiles Torreados, 220
Chipotle Aioli, 47
Chipotle Rémoulade, 91
Chipotle Salsa, 35
Dos Caminos’s House Hot Sauce, 30, 31
Grilled Summer Vegetable Tacos, 92-93
Habañero Pickled Red Onions, 78, 79
Habañero Salsa, 186
Hot Papaya Mango Salsa, 118
Jalapeño Mint Salsita, 193
Jalapeño Yogurt, 204, 205
 Lime Sea Salt, 129
Maggi Chimichurri Sauce, 93
Pasilla de Oaxaca, Salsa, 137
Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 121
and Pepper, Roasted, Tacos Potosinas-Style with Tomatillo Pasilla
de Oaxaca Salsa, 76, 77
Pico de Gallo, 38, 39
Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli, 104
Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa, 34
Roasted Tomato Salsita, 148
Salsa Macha, 152
Salsa Verde Cruda, 73
Serrano, Salsa, 206
Serrano, Tomato Salsa, Fresh, 194, 195
Smoked, Salt, 129
Spicy Cabbage Slaw, 178, 179
Spicy Mint Crema, 88
Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa, 36, 37
Tomato Serrano Salsita, 116
Watermelon Pico de Gallo, 42, 43
White Salsa, 112
Chile(s) (about)
ancho, 259
buying and storing, 258
cascabel, 259-60
chiles de árbol, 259
chipotle, 260
chipotles en adobo, 264
costeño, 260
dried, rehydrating, 19-20
dried, roasting, 19
dried, types of, 259-61
fresh, roasting, 19
fresh, types of, 258-59
 guajillo, 260-61
habañero, 186, 258
Jalapeño, 258
mulato, 261
pasilla, 261
pasilla de Oaxaca, 261
poblano, 258
safe handling of, 258
serrano, 259
Chimichurri Sauce, Maggi, 93
Chocolate, Dark, Tacos with Sour Cherries, 236, 237
Chorizo
about, 264
Black Bean Pico de Gallo, 41
Chicken, and Potato Tacos, 142, 143
and Potato Filled Tacos, 211
and Scallop Tacos, 134, 135
Cilantro
about, 264
Crema, 52
Heirloom Tomato Pico de Gallo, 124
Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa, 34
Serrano Chile Salsa, 206
Tortilla, Basic, 28, 29
Cinnamon, Mexican. See Canela
Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, 63, 63
Cochinita Pibil Tacos, 200, 201
Cod
Baja-Style Fish Tacos with White Sauce, 101
Tacos, Baja-Style, with Roasted Tomato Rémoulade, 106, 107-8
Collard Greens Tacos with Pickled Apples and Walnuts, 68, 69
Comal (flat griddle), 17
Coriander, about, 264
Corn
 Avocado Relish, 226
Black Bean, and Mango Salsa, 100
Black Bean Pico de Gallo, 41
Mexico City-Style Street (Elote de la Calle), 224, 225
Zucchini, and Black Bean Tacos with Salsa Verde, 95
Corned Beef and Cabbage Tacos, 178,179
Cornmeal
Basic Tortilla Masa, 24, 25
Beef-Stuffed Gorditas with Habañero Salsa, 184-86, 185
masa harina, about, 265
Corn tortillas
about, 14-15
Basic Tortilla Masa, 24, 25
Crab
Salpiçon Tacos, 122, 123
soft-shell, cleaning, 124
Soft-Shell, Grilled, Tacos with Heirloom Tomato Pico de Gallo, 124,
125
Cranberry(ies)
-Apple Salsita, 54
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171
Crema
about, 264
Chipotle Rémoulade, 91
Cilantro, 52
Epazote, 53
Spicy Mint, 88
Crème Fraîche, Lime Cumin, 100
Cucumber(s)
-Citrus Slaw, 63, 63
Grilled Nopales Salad, 230, 231
Pico de Gallo, 60
Currants
Spinach á la Gallega Tacos, 84, 85
D
Dessert tacos
Canela-Dusted Dessert Tacos, 234, 235
Dark Chocolate Tacos with Sour Cherries, 236, 237
Dos Caminos’s House Hot Sauce, 30, 31
Drunken Beans, 229
Duck
Carnitas Tacos, 162, 163
Tacos with Plum Pico de Gallo, 164, 165

E
Egg(s)
Chopped Chicken Liver Tacos, 160-61, 161
Scrambled, and Dried Beef Tacos, Nuevo León Style, 180, 181
Elote de la Calle (Mexico City-Style Street Corn), 224, 225
Epazote
about, 264
Chipotle Salsa, 35
Crema, 53
Huitlacoche and Mushroom Tacos, 72, 73
Roasted Pepper and Chile Tacos Potosinas-Style with Tomatillo
Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa, 76, 77

F
Fennel Red Cabbage Apple Slaw, 108, 109
Fish. See also Shellfish
Baja-Style Cod Tacos with Roasted Tomato Rémoulade, 106, 107-
8
Beer-Battered Fried, 105
Grilled Mahimahi Tacos, Baja-Style, with Pineapple Habeñero Hot
Sauce, 102-4, 103, 104
Grilled Red Snapper Tacos Yucatán-Style, 110, 111-12
Lime-Marinated Tuna Tacos with Papaya, Mustard, and Rosemary
Salsa, 113
 Salt-Crusted Roasted Salmon Tacos with Black Bean, Corn, and
Mango Salsa, 98-100, 99
Smoked Swordfish Tacos with Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 120,
121
Tacos, Baja-Style, with White Sauce, 101
Tuna in Chayote Taco Shells with Tomato Serrano Salsita, 116-17
Tuna Tacos in Lettuce Leaves á la Flaca, 118, 119
Tuna Tacos with Lime Aioli and Honeydew Jicama Slaw, 114, 115
Flat griddle, 17
Flour Tortillas
about, 15
Basic, 26, 27
Food processor, 17
Frozen Margarita, 246, 247
Fruit. See also specific fruits
Canela-Dusted Dessert Tacos, 234, 235

G
Garlic, roasting, 19
Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage, 176, 176
Glaze, Ancho-Maple, 87
Goat Barbacoa Tacos, 216, 217
Gorditas
Beef-Stuffed, with Habañero Salsa, 184-86, 185
Plantain Goat Cheese, with Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa,
78, 79
Grains
Basic Tortilla Masa, 24, 25
Beef-Stuffed Gorditas with Habañero Salsa, 184-86, 185
Lemon-Basil Rice, 227
masa harina, about, 265
Grapefruit
Grilled Pineapple Salsita, 128
Sangrita, 249, 249
Greens. See also Cabbage; Lettuce;
Watercress
Collard, Tacos with Pickled Apples and Walnuts, 68, 69
Crab Salpiçon Tacos, 122, 123
Grilled Wild Mushroom and Kale Tacos, 70, 71
Purslane Tacos, 82, 83
Spinach á la Gallega Tacos, 84, 85
Swiss Chard, Beet, and Goat Cheese Tacos, 88, 89
Guacamole, 44, 45

H
Herbs. See also Cilantro; Epazote; Mint
Herbed Salsa Verde, 197
Mexican oregano, about, 265
Hibiscus, Sweet, Punch, 244, 245
Honeydew Jicama Slaw, 114
Hot Dog Tacos, Mexican, 198, 199
Hot Sauce
Charred Pineapple Habañero, 102
Dos Caminos’s House, 30, 31
Valentina brand, 266
Huitlacoche
about, 264-65
and Mushroom Tacos, 72, 73

I
Isthmian-Style Meat Loaf Tacos, 210

J
Jamaica flowers, about, 265
Jicama
about, 265
Grilled Pineapple Salsita, 128
 Honeydew Slaw, 114
Smoked Swordfish Tacos with Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 120,
121

K
Kale and Grilled Wild Mushroom Tacos,
70, 71

L
Lard, about, 265
Lemon
-Basil Rice, 227
olive oil, making at home, 60
Prickly Pear Lemonade, 241, 241
Lettuce
Bacon Tacos with Chipotle Aioli, 214, 215
Crab Salpiçon Tacos, 122, 123
Leaves, Tuna Tacos in, á la Flaca, 118, 119
Lime(s)
Aioli, 114
Aioli, Roasted Jalapeño, 104
Aioli, Sriracha, 132
Blue Pom Margarita, 250, 251
Chile Sea Salt, 129
Cumin Crème Fraîche, 100
Cumin Vinaigrette, 100
Frozen Margarita, 246, 247
Grilled, Chicken Tacos, Easy, 150, 151
-Marinated Tuna Tacos with Papaya,
Mustard, and Rosemary Salsa, 113
Michelada, 252, 253
-Salt-Sugar, 246
Summer Peach Margarita, 248
Liver, Chicken, Chopped, Tacos, 160-61, 161
Lobster Tacos Puerto Nuevo Style, 133

M
Maggi Chimichurri Sauce, 93
Maggi sauce, about, 265
Mahimahi
Beer-Battered Fried Fish, 105
Grilled, Tacos, Baja-Style, with Pineapple Habeñero Hot Sauce,
102-4, 103, 104
Mango(es)
Avocado Slaw, 112
Black Bean, and Corn Salsa, 100
Dos Caminos’s House Hot Sauce, 30, 31
Papaya Salsa, Hot, 118
peeling and cutting up, 31
Maple-Ancho Glaze, 87
Margaritas
Blue Pom, 250, 251
Frozen, 246, 247
Summer Peach, 248
Masa, about, 265
Masa harina
about, 265
Basic Tortilla Masa, 24, 25
Matzo Tortillas, 161, 161
Mayonnaise, Bacon-Fat-Pickled Jalapeño, 50
Meat. See also Beef; Pork
Goat Barbacoa Tacos, 216, 217
Rabbit in Adobo Tacos, 218, 219-20, 221
Meatball, Chicken, Tacos, 144-45
Meatball Tacos in Chipotle Sauce, 208, 209
Meat Loaf Tacos, Isthmian-Style, 210
Meat tacos
Bacon Tacos with Chipotle Aioli, 214, 215
 Beef Picadillo Tacos, 193
Beef-Stuffed Gorditas with Habañero Salsa, 184-86, 185
Beef Tongue Tacos in Fresh Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa, 194, 195
Brisket Tacos with Ginger Pickled Red Cabbage, 174, 175-76
Carne Parrillada Tacos with Chiles Rajas, 191-92
Carnitas Tacos with Serrano Chile Salsa, 206, 207
Cascabel Chile Marinated Carne Asada Tacos with Caramelized
Onions, Pico de Gallo, and Cotija Cheese, 187
Chile and Beer Braised Brisket Tacos, 177
Chorizo and Potato Filled Tacos, 211
Cochinita Pibil Tacos, 200, 201
Corned Beef and Cabbage Tacos, 178, 179
Crispy Pork Belly Tacos with Caramelized Lady Apple Salsa, 212,
213
Goat Barbacoa Tacos, 216, 217
Grilled Arab-Style Tacos with Jalapeño Yogurt, 204, 205
Isthmian-Style Meat Loaf Tacos, 210
Meatball Tacos in Chipotle Sauce, 208, 209
Mexican Hot Dog Tacos, 198, 199
Michoacán-Style Beef Tenderloin Tip Tacos, 188
Nuevo León Style Dried Beef and Scrambled Egg Tacos, 180, 181
Pork Shank Tacos with Pickled Red Cabbage, 202-3
Rabbit in Adobo Tacos, 218, 219-20, 221
Tamarind Braised Short Rib Tacos, 182, 183
Tripe Tacos, 196, 197
Mexican Hot Dog Tacos, 198, 199
Mexican oregano, about, 265
Mexico City-Style Street Corn (Elote de la Calle), 224, 225
Michelada, 252, 253
Michoacán-Style Beef Tenderloin Tip Tacos, 188
Mint
Crema, Spicy, 88
Jalapeño Salsita, 193
Mushroom(s)
 and Huitlacoche Tacos, 72, 73
Michoacán-Style Beef Tenderloin Tip Tacos, 188
Wild, and Nopales Filled Tacos, 74
Wild, Grilled, and Kale Tacos, 70, 71
Mustard, Papaya, and Rosemary Salsa, 113

N
Nopales
about, 265
Grilled, Salad, 230, 231
and Wild Mushroom Filled Tacos, 74
Nuevo León Style Dried Beef and Scrambled Egg Tacos, 180, 181
Nuts
Blue Cheese, Walnut, and Cabbage Tacos, 64, 65
Chicken Picadillo Tacos, 147
Collard Greens Tacos with Pickled Apples and Walnuts, 68, 69
Salsa Macha, 152
Spinach á la Gallega Tacos, 84, 85
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171

O
Octopus Ceviche Tacos, 136, 137
Oil
Cracked Black Pepper, 230
lemon, making at home, 60
for recipes, 17
Olive(s)
Black, Grilled Pineapple Salsa, 168
Chicken Picadillo Tacos, 147
Green, and Chipotle Rémoulade, Fried
Green Tomatillo Tacos with, 90, 91
Octopus Ceviche Tacos, 136, 137
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171
Onions
 for recipes, 17, 265
Red, Habañero Pickled, 78, 79
Orange(s)
Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, 63, 63
Cochinita Pibil Tacos, 200, 201
Sangrita, 249, 249
Sea Salt, 129
Oregano, Mexican, about, 265

P
Papaya
Mango Salsa, Hot, 118
Mustard, and Rosemary Salsa, 113
Peach
and Red Pepper, Grilled, Salsita, 55
Summer, Margarita, 248
Pear, Prickly, Lemonade, 241, 241
Pecans
Salsa Macha, 152
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171
Peppercorns
Cracked Black Pepper Aioli, 48, 49
Cracked Black Pepper Oil, 230
Pink, Blend, 248
Pepper(s). See also Chile(s)
Avocado Corn Relish, 226
and Chile, Roasted, Tacos Potosinas-Style with Tomatillo Pasilla
de Oaxaca Salsa, 76, 77
Grilled Summer Vegetable Tacos, 92-93
Red, and Peach, Grilled, Salsita, 55
Sweet Potato and Colorado Bean Kash Tacos, 75
Three-Colored Pickled (Chiles Rajas),192
Pico de Gallo, 38, 39
Apple Onion, 40
 Black Bean, 41
Cucumber, 60
Heirloom Tomato, 124
Plum, 164
Watermelon, 42, 43
Piloncillo, about, 265
Pimentón de la Vera, about, 265
Pineapple
Charred, Habañero Hot Sauce, 102
Chilacayota Agua Fresca, 240
Grilled, Black Olive Salsa, 168
Grilled, Salsita, 128
Michelada, 252, 253
Pine nuts
Spinach á la Gallega Tacos, 84, 85
Pink Peppercorn Blend, 248
Plancha (cast-iron skillet), 17
Plantain(s)
about, 265
Goat Cheese Gorditas with Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol Salsa,
78, 79
Plum Pico de Gallo, 164
Pork. See also Bacon
Belly Tacos, Crispy, with Caramelized Lady Apple Salsa, 212, 213
Black Bean Pico de Gallo, 41
Carnitas Tacos with Serrano Chile Salsa, 206, 207
chorizo, about, 264
Chorizo and Potato Filled Tacos, 211
Cochinita Pibil Tacos, 200, 201
Grilled Arab-Style Tacos with Jalapeño Yogurt, 204, 205
Isthmian-Style Meat Loaf Tacos, 210
Meatball Tacos in Chipotle Sauce, 208, 209
Mexican Hot Dog Tacos, 198, 199
Scallop and Chorizo Tacos, 134, 135
 Shank Tacos with Pickled Red Cabbage, 202-3
Potato(es)
and Chicken Chorizo Tacos, 142, 143
Chicken Picadillo Tacos, 147
and Chorizo Filled Tacos, 211
Latke Tacos with Canela Applesauce, 80-81
Smoke-Roasted Root Vegetable Tacos, 94
Sweet, and Colorado Bean Kash Tacos, 75
Sweet, Grilled, Tacos with Ancho Glaze and Spicy Black Beans,
86, 87
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171
Poultry. See also Chicken
Duck Carnitas Tacos, 162, 163
Duck Tacos with Plum Pico de Gallo, 164, 165
Roasted Quail Tacos, 166, 167-68
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171
Poultry tacos
Chicken Carnitas Tacos, 146
Chicken Chorizo and Potato Tacos, 142, 143
Chicken Meatball Tacos, 144-45
Chicken Picadillo Tacos, 147
Chicken Tinga Tacos, 148, 149
Chopped Chicken Liver Tacos, 160-61, 161
Duck Carnitas Tacos, 162, 163
Duck Tacos with Plum Pico de Gallo, 164, 165
Easy Grilled Lime Chicken Tacos, 150, 151
Fried Chicken Tacos, 152, 153
Marinated Chicken Supremo Tacos with Chicharonnes, 154, 155-
56
Roasted Quail Tacos, 166, 167-68
Smoked Chicken Thigh Tacos with
Watermelon Pico de Gallo, 158, 159
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171
Wood-Charcoal-Grilled Chicken Tacos, 140, 141
Prickly Pear Lemonade, 241, 241
Purslane Tacos, 82, 83

Q
Quail, Roasted, Tacos, 166, 167-68
Quesillo Oaxaca, about, 266
Queso blanco, about, 265
Queso Chihuahua, about, 266
Queso Cotija, about, 266
Queso fresco, about, 266
Queso Menonita, about, 266
Queso Requesón, about, 266

R
Rabbit in Adobo Tacos, 218, 219-20, 221
Radishes
Bacon Tacos with Chipotle Aioli, 214, 215
Pickled Vegetables, 123
Ramps, Pickled, 220
Recado, 168
Recipes
equipment for, 17
ingredient notes, 17
serving sizes, 17
techniques, 19-20
Red Snapper, Grilled, Tacos Yucatán-Style, 110, 111-12
Relish, Avocado Corn, 226
Rémoulade
Chipotle, 91
Roasted Tomato, 108
Rice, Lemon-Basil, 227
Rutabagas
Smoke-Roasted Root Vegetable Tacos, 94
S
Salads. See also Slaws
Grilled Nopales, 230, 231
Salmon, Salt-Crusted Roasted, Tacos with Black Bean, Corn, and
Mango Salsa, 98-100, 99
Salsas
Apple-Cranberry Salsita, 54
Apple Onion Pico de Gallo, 40
Black Bean, Corn, and Mango, 100
Black Bean Pico de Gallo, 41
Caramelized Lady Apple, 212, 213
Chile de Árbol, 156
Chipotle, 35
Cucumber Pico de Gallo, 60
Grilled Peach and Red Pepper Salsita, 55
Grilled Pineapple Black Olive, 168
Grilled Pineapple Salsita, 128
Habañero, 186
Heirloom Tomato Pico de Gallo, 124
Herbed Salsa Verde, 197
Hot Papaya Mango, 118
Jalapeño Mint Salsita, 193
Papaya, Mustard, and Rosemary, 113
Pasilla de Oaxaca Chile, 137
Pico de Gallo, 38, 39
Plum Pico de Gallo, 164
Roasted Tomato Chile de Árbol, 34
Roasted Tomato Salsita, 148
Salsa Verde, 32, 33
Salsa Verde Cruda, 73
Serrano Chile, 206
for tacos, 15
Tomatillo Pasilla de Oaxaca, 36, 37
Tomato Serrano Chile, Fresh, 194, 195
 Tomato Serrano Salsita, 116
Watermelon Pico de Gallo, 42, 43
White, 112
Salt
-Lime-Sugar, 246
for recipes, 17, 266
Sea, Chile Lime, 129
Sea, Orange, 129
Smoked Chile, 129
Sangrita, 249, 249
Sauces. See also Salsas
Adobo, 220
Ancho Chile Vinaigrette, 51
Avocado Aioli, 46
Bacon-Fat-Pickled Jalapeño
Mayonnaise, 50
Canela Applesauce, 81
Chimichurri, Maggi, 93
Chipotle Aioli, 47
Chipotle Rémoulade, 91
Cilantro Crema, 52
Cracked Black Pepper Aioli, 48, 49
Epazote Crema, 53
Guacamole, 44, 45
Hot, Charred Pineapple Habañero, 102
Hot, Dos Caminos’s House, 30, 31
hot, Valentina brand, 266
Jalapeño Yogurt, 204, 205
Lime Aioli, 114
Lime Cumin Crème Fraîche, 100
Lime Cumin Vinaigrette, 100
Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 121
Roasted Jalapeño Lime Aioli, 104
Roasted Tomato Rémoulade, 108
 Spicy Mint Crema, 88
Sriracha Lime Aioli, 132
Sausages
Black Bean Pico de Gallo, 41
Chicken Chorizo and Potato Tacos, 142, 143
chorizo, about, 264
Chorizo and Potato Filled Tacos, 211
Scallop and Chorizo Tacos, 134, 135
Scallop and Chorizo Tacos, 134, 135
Seafood tacos
Baja-Style Cod Tacos with Roasted Tomato Rémoulade, 106, 107-
8
Baja-Style Fish Tacos with White Sauce, 101
Beer-Battered Fried Fish, 105
Crab Salpiçon Tacos, 122, 123
Grilled Hot and Smoky Shrimp Tacos, 126, 127
Grilled Mahimahi Tacos, Baja-Style, with Pineapple Habeñero Hot
Sauce, 102-4, 103, 104
Grilled Red Snapper Tacos Yucatán-Style, 110, 111-12
Grilled Soft-Shell Crab Tacos with Heirloom Tomato Pico de Gallo,
124, 125
Lime-Marinated Tuna Tacos with Papaya, Mustard, and Rosemary
Salsa, 113
Lobster Tacos Puerto Nuevo Style, 133
Octopus Ceviche Tacos, 136, 137
Salt-Crusted Roasted Salmon Tacos with Black Bean, Corn, and
Mango Salsa, 98-100, 99
Scallop and Chorizo Tacos, 134, 135
Shrimp Tacos with Chili Lime Sea Salt and Grilled Pineapple
Salsita, 128-29
Smoked Swordfish Tacos with Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 120,
121
Surf-and-Turf Tacos Tampiqueña-Style with Pasilla de Oaxaca
Tomatillo Salsa, 130-32, 131
Tuna in Chayote Taco Shells with Tomato Serrano Salsita, 116-17
 Tuna Tacos in Lettuce Leaves á la Flaca, 118, 119
Tuna Tacos with Lime Aioli and
Honeydew Jicama Slaw, 114, 115
Shellfish
Crab Salpiçon Tacos, 122, 123
Grilled Hot and Smoky Shrimp Tacos, 126, 127
Grilled Soft-Shell Crab Tacos with Heirloom Tomato Pico de Gallo,
124, 125
Lobster Tacos Puerto Nuevo Style, 133
Octopus Ceviche Tacos, 136, 137
Scallop and Chorizo Tacos, 134, 135
Shrimp Tacos with Chili Lime Sea Salt and Grilled Pineapple
Salsita, 128-29
soft-shell crabs, cleaning, 124
Surf-and-Turf Tacos Tampiqueña-Style with Pasilla de Oaxaca
Tomatillo Salsa, 130-32, 131
Shrimp
Grilled Hot and Smoky, Tacos, 126, 127
Surf-and-Turf Tacos Tampiqueña-Style with Pasilla de Oaxaca
Tomatillo Salsa, 130-32, 131
Tacos with Chili Lime Sea Salt and Grilled Pineapple Salsita, 128-
29
Sides
Avocado Corn Relish, 226
Drunken Beans, 229
Elote de la Calle (Mexico City-Style Street Corn), 224, 225
Grilled Nopales Salad, 230, 231
Lemon-Basil Rice, 227
My Refried Beans, 228
Simple Syrup, 246
Skillets, cast-iron, 17
Slaws
Cabbage, Spicy, 178, 179
Citrus-Cucumber, 63, 63
Honeydew Jicama, 114
 Mango Avocado, 112
Red Cabbage Fennel Apple, 108, 109
Sour cream, Mexican. See Crema
Spices, toasting, 20
Spinach á la Gallega Tacos, 84, 85
Squash
Butternut, Cojita Tacos, 66, 67
Chilacayota Agua Fresca, 240
Grilled Summer Vegetable Tacos, 92-93
Zucchini, Black Bean, and Corn Tacos with Salsa Verde, 95
Sriracha Lime Aioli, 132
Sugar, Lime-Salt, 246
Surf-and-Turf Tacos Tampiqueña-Style
with Pasilla de Oaxaca Tomatillo Salsa,
130-32, 131
Sweet Potato
and Colorado Bean Kash Tacos, 75
Grilled, Tacos with Ancho Glaze and Spicy Black Beans, 86, 87
Swiss Chard, Beet, and Goat Cheese Tacos, 88, 89
Swordfish, Smoked, Tacos with Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 120,
121
Syrup, Simple, 246

T
Tacos
cooking techniques, 19-20
description of, 266
equipment for, 17
fillings for, 15
garnishes and side dishes for, 15
ingredient notes, 17
origins of, 12-14
salsas for, 15
tortillas for, 14-15
Taco Shells, Chayote, 117
Tamarind
Agua Fresca, 242, 243
Braised Short Rib Tacos, 182, 183
paste, about, 266
Tangerines
Smoked Swordfish Tacos with Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 120,
121
Tequila
Blue Pom Margarita, 250, 251
Frozen Margarita, 246, 247
Sangrita, 249, 249
Summer Peach Margarita, 248
Tomatillo(s)
about, 266
Chicken Chorizo and Potato Tacos, 142, 143
Green, Fried, Tacos with Green Olives and Chipotle Rémoulade,
90, 91
Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa, 36, 37
Salsa Verde, 32, 33
Salsa Verde Cruda, 73
Tomato(es)
Black Bean Pico de Gallo, 41
Chipotle Salsa, 35
Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, 63, 63
Grilled Nopales Salad, 230, 231
Heirloom, Pico de Gallo, 124
Pico de Gallo, 38, 39
Roasted, Chile de Árbol Salsa, 34
Roasted, Rémoulade, 108
Roasted, Salsita, 148
roasting, 20
Sangrita, 249, 249
Serrano Chile Salsa, Fresh, 194, 195
 Serrano Salsita, 116
White Salsa, 112
Tongue, Beef, Tacos in Fresh Tomato Serrano Chile Salsa, 194, 195
Tortilla press, 17
Tortillas
about, 266
Cilantro, Basic, 28, 29
corn, about, 14-15
flour, about, 15
Flour, Basic, 26, 27
frying, 19
Masa, Basic, 24, 25
Matzo, 161, 161
warming, 19
Tripe Tacos, 196, 197
Tuna
in Chayote Taco Shells with Tomato
Serrano Salsita, 116-17
Lime-Marinated, Tacos with Papaya, Mustard, and Rosemary
Salsa, 113
Tacos in Lettuce Leaves á la Flaca, 118, 119
Tacos with Lime Aioli and Honeydew Jicama Slaw, 114, 115
Turkey Picadillo Tacos, 170, 171

V
Valentina hot sauce, about, 266
Vegetable(s). See also specific
vegetables
Pickled, 123
Root, Smoke-Roasted, Tacos, 94
Summer, Grilled, Tacos, 92-93
Vegetarian tacos
Avocado Tacos Baja-Style with Citrus-Cucumber Slaw, 62-63
Blue Cheese, Walnut, and Cabbage Tacos, 64, 65
 Butternut Squash Cojita Tacos, 66, 67
Collard Greens Tacos with Pickled Apples and Walnuts, 68, 69
Fried Green Tomatillo Tacos with Green Olives and Chipotle
Rémoulade, 90, 91
Grilled Asparagus and Avocado Tacos, 58, 59-60, 61
Grilled Summer Vegetable Tacos, 92-93
Grilled Sweet Potato Tacos with Ancho Glaze and Spicy Black
Beans, 86, 87
Grilled Wild Mushroom and Kale Tacos, 70, 71
Huitlacoche and Mushroom Tacos,
72, 73
Plantain Goat Cheese Gorditas with Roasted Tomato Chile de
Árbol Salsa, 78, 79
Potato Latke Tacos with Canela Applesauce, 80-81
Purslane Tacos, 82, 83
Roasted Pepper and Chile Tacos Potosinas-Style with Tomatillo
Pasilla de Oaxaca Salsa, 76, 77
Smoke-Roasted Root Vegetable Tacos, 94
Spinach á la Gallega Tacos, 84, 85
Sweet Potato and Colorado Bean Kash Tacos, 75
Swiss Chard, Beet, and Goat Cheese Tacos, 88, 89
Wild Mushroom and Nopales Filled Tacos, 74
Zucchini, Black Bean, and Corn Tacos with Salsa Verde, 95
Vinaigrettes
Ancho Chile, 51
Lime Cumin, 100
Pasilla de Oaxaca, 121

W
Walnut(s)
Blue Cheese, and Cabbage Tacos,
64, 65
and Pickled Apples, Collard Greens Tacos with, 68, 69
Watercress
 Fried Green Tomatillo Tacos with Green Olives and Chipotle
Rémoulade, 90, 91
Smoked Swordfish Tacos with Pasilla de Oaxaca Vinaigrette, 120,
121
Tuna Tacos with Lime Aioli and
Honeydew Jicama Slaw, 114, 115
Watermelon Pico de Gallo, 42, 43

Y
Yogurt
Jalapeño, 204, 205
Spicy Mint Crema, 88

Z
Zucchini
Black Bean, and Corn Tacos with Salsa Verde, 95
Grilled Summer Vegetable Tacos, 92-93
ALSO BY IVY STARK

Also by IVY STARK with Joanna Pruess

Dos Caminos Mexican Street Food
Copyright © 2014 by Ivy Stark and Joanna Pruess

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Photography:

All photography by Noah Feckman unless otherwise indicated

Photographs printed with permission of BR Guest: pages 12, 13, 16,

45, 270.

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