Ladder Chair 
Supplies 
● (3) 5/4×2×8 
● (1) 5/4×3×8 
● (2) 1×2×8 
● (1) 1×3×6 
● (1) 1×4×6 
● (1) 1×5×6 
● (1) 1×6×6 
● 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws 
● 1-1/2″ Pocket Screws 
● 1-1/4″ Pocket Screws 
● 2″ Wood Screws 
● Wood Glue (​I used this one​) 
● 1-1/2″×12″ piano hinge 

   
 
NOTE:​ This plan contains affiliate links to supplies and tools. I may receive a 
small commission if you make a purchase. There is no cost to you for using 
these links. Thank you so much for your support. 

Click here​ for the original tutorial 

 
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Tools  This Plan Uses 5/4 Lumber 

● Tape Measure  5/4 lumber is spoken as five-quarter. Let’s look a little closer 
● Drill  at a 5/4×3×8.  
● Kreg Jig 
● Miter Saw  The ​first number r​ efers to the ​thickness​. The thickness of 
● Jig Saw, Circular Saw or Band Saw  a 5/4 ​can range from about 1 inch to 1-¼ inches thick​. 
● Table Saw  The 5/4 lumber I used measured ​1-⅛ inches thick​.  
● Countersink Drill Bit  The ​second number​ refers to the ​width​. The width of a 
● Pocket Hole Plug Cutter​ (optional)  5/4×3×8 is 2-½ inches.  
 
The ​third number​ refers to the l​ ength​. The length of a 
 
5/4×3×8 is 8 feet. 
NOTE:​ I was not able to locate 5/4×2 at my local big box 
Disclaimer  store. Instead, I used my table saw to rip 5/4×4 to 1-½”. 
Related:​ ​Beginner’s Guide to Wood Sizes 
This DIY ladder chair has not been weight tested or stress 
tested. Excess weight or excess stress may make the ladder  These are the f​ inished measurements​ of the material I 
chair unsafe to use. Discontinue use if at any time the  used for this project: 
ladder chair feels unsafe.  
5/4×2 = 1-⅛” x 1-½” 
Joints and connections may become loose over time and  5/4×3 = 1-⅛” x 2-½” 
could make the chair unsafe to use.   1×2 = ¾” x 1-½” 
1×3 = ¾” x 2-½” 
By using these plans you are agreeing to do so at your own 
1×4 = ¾” x 3-½” 
risk.
1×5 = ¾” x 4-½” 
 
1×6 = ¾” x 5-½” 
 
 

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Step 1. Cut the Legs  Step 2. Cut the Front Leg Rails 
Cut 2 pieces of 5/4×2 to 15-1/4″.  Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 5/4×3, measure 2-1/8″ from 
the bottom of the angle and make a 90-degree cut. Drill 
Related:​ H
​ ow to Cut Wood for Beginners 
one pocket hole into the front edge of the rail. Repeat for 
the other rail. Be sure to make a right and a left. 
Related: ​How to Use a Kreg Jig 

 
 
   
   
   
     
   

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Step 3. Cut the Front Slanted Legs  Step 4. Attach the Front Leg Rail to the Slanted 
Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 5/4×2, measure 16-1/2″ and  Leg 
cut a parallel 22.5-degree angle. 
Apply glue to the front leg rail, clamp and attach using a 
Measure 13/16″ on one end and make a 90-degree cut. This  1-1/2″ pocket screw. 
cut would be dangerous to make on a miter saw. I used my 
bandsaw to make this cut, but you could also use a jigsaw 
or circular saw and crosscut jig. 
Related:​ H
​ ow to Make a DIY Circular Saw Crosscut Jig 

 
 

   
 
 
   
   

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Step 5. Attach the Front Leg Assembly to the  Step 6. ​Cut and Attach the Front Step Rail 
Front Leg  Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 5/4×3, measure 3-7/8″ from 
the top of the angle and make a 90-degree cut. Drill two 
Drill two pocket holes in the leg assembly making sure to  pocket holes in each end. Repeat for the other rail. Be sure 
avoid drilling into the pocket screw. Repeat for the other  to make a right and a left. 
side. 
To help position the rails cut a piece of scrap wood to 
Apply glue to the front rail, clamp to the front leg, and  6-1/8″ and clamp the scrap to the front leg. Apply glue to 
attach using 1-1/2″ pocket screws.  the ends of the rail, clamp in position and attach using 
1-1/2″ pocket screws. Repeat for the other side. 

 
   

   

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Step 7. ​Cut the Front Seat Rail  Step 8. Cut the Front Step Rail 
Cut a 5/4×3 to 13-1/4″. Drill pocket holes in each end and in  Cut a 1×2 to 13-1/4″. Drill a pocket hole in each end. 
one side. 

 
 
 
 

 
 
   
   

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Step 9. Attach the Front Rails  Step 10. Cut the Front Step Cleat 
Place the legs on your workbench. Then, place some scrap  Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 1×2, measure 6-9/16″ from 
1/8″ hardboard on your workbench. The hardboard will  the top of the angle and make a 90-degree cut. You can 
help to set the rails in from the front of the leg 1/8″.  also place a 1×2 in position, mark the angle and cut. This 
method will ensure the best fit. Repeat for the other side. 
Apply glue to the ends of the seat rail and place at the top 
of the legs. To help position the step rail cut a piece of 
scrap wood to 5-1/8″ and place below the seat rail. Apply 
glue to the ends of the step rail and place below the scrap 
wood. Clamp rails in position and attach using 1-1/2″ 
pocket screws. 

 
 

   
 
 
 

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Step 11. ​Cut the Front Seat Cleat  Step 12. ​Attach the Front Cleats 
Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 1×2, measure 3″ from the top  Drill countersink holes in the sides of the step and seat 
of the angle and make a 90-degree cut. You can also place a  cleats. These holes will be used to attach the cleats to the 
1×2 in position, mark the angle and cut. This method will  legs. Be sure to make a left and a right. 
ensure the best fit. Repeat for the other side. 
Then drill countersink holes in the bottom of the step and 
seat cleats. These holes will be used to attach the cleats to 
the step and seat. 
Apply glue to the cleats, clamp in position and attach using 
1-1/4″ wood screws. The top cleat is flush with the top rail 
and the bottom cleat is flush with the bottom rail. 

 
 

 
 

     

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Step 13. ​Cut and Attach the Front Step Support  Step 14. Cut and Attach the Front Seat 
Cut a 1×2 to 11-3/4″ and drill a pocket hole in each end.  Cut a 1×6 to 16″ and rip to 4-3/4″. The seat is flush to the 
Apply glue to the ends of the step support, place 2-1/4″  back of the legs, overhangs the front of the legs 1/2″ and 
from the back of the step cleat and clamp. I used a right  overhangs the sides of the legs 1/4″. Clamp in position. 
angle attachment on my drill to attach the 1-1/4″ pocket  Attach to the cleats using 2″ wood screws and attach to the 
screws.  front rail using 1-1/2″ pocket screws. 

   
   

       

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Step 15. Make and Attach the Front Step  Place the step flush with the front of the legs and mark the 
angle at the back of the legs. Using a table saw or circular 
Cut a 1×4 to 13-1/4″. Cut a 1×5 to 13-1/4″. To make the step,  saw, cut a 22.5-degree angle at this mark. Clamp in 
drill pocket holes, apply glue and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket  position. Attach to the cleats using 2″ wood screws and 
screws.  attach to the front rail using 1-1/2″ pocket screws. 

 
 
   
 
 

   

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Step 16. Make the Back Legs  Step 17. Make and Attach the Back Bottom 
Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 5/4×2, measure 15-11/16″ and  Rails 
cut a parallel 22.5-degree angle. Repeat for the other leg. 
Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 5/4×3, measure 2-3/8″ from 
the bottom of the angle and make a 5-degree cut. 
Drill a pocket hole to attach the bottom rail to the leg. 
Repeat for the other rail. Be sure to make a right and a left. 

 
 

   

     

   
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Step 17. Continued...  Step 18. Make and Attach the Back Top Rails 
Apply glue to the front edge of the bottom rail, clamp to the  Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 5/4×3, measure 7-3/16″ from 
front leg and attach using 1-1/2″ pocket screws.  the bottom of the angle and make a 5-degree cut. Drill 
pocket holes in each end. Repeat for the other rail. Be sure 
Then drill two pocket holes to attach the bottom rail to the 
to make a right and a left. 
stile. Be sure to position the pocket holes to avoid the 
pocket screw you just attached. 

 
 
 
   

   

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Step 18. Continued...  Step 19. Make the Back Stiles 

Apply glue to the front edge of the top rail, clamp to the  Cut a 5-degree angle on a 5/4×2, measure 31-1/8″ and cut a 
front leg and attach using 1-1/2″ pocket screws.  parallel 5-degree angle. Repeat for the other stile. 

   
   

   

       

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Step 20. Attach the Back Stiles  Step 21. Make and Attach the Back Middle Rails 
Apply glue to the ends of the rails, clamp to the stile and  Cut a 22.5-degree angle on a 5/4×3, measure 4-1/16″ from 
attach using 1-1/2″ pocket screws.  the bottom of the angle and make a 5-degree cut. Drill 
pocket holes in each end. Repeat for the other rail. Be sure 
to make a right and a left. 

 
 
 

 
 

   
   

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Step 21. Continued...  Step 22. Make and Attach the Cleats 
To help position the middle rail I cut a piece of scrap to  For the best fit of the cleats, it’s best to place the wood in 
3-3/8″. Place the scrap on top of the bottom rail, apply glue  position, mark the angles and cut. The top cleat is flush 
to the ends of the middle and clamp in position. Attach  with the top rail, the middle cleat is flush with the top of the 
using 1-1/2″ pocket screws.  middle rail and the bottom rail is flush with the bottom of 
the bottom rail. 

 
 
 
Once the cleats are cut, drill countersink holes in the 
bottom edge of the top rail to attach the seat. Drill 
  countersink holes in the top edge of the middle and bottom 
rails to attach the steps. Then drill countersink holes in the 
faces to attach the cleats to the legs. Be sure to make a 
    right and left. Apply glue to the cleats, clamp in position and 
attach using 1-1/4″ wood screws. 

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Step 23. Make and Attach the Middle Step  Once the glue is dry, rip a 5-degree bevel on one edge. 
Place the 5-degree angle under the middle cleat and 
Cut a 1×4 to 13-1/4″. Cut a 1×5 to 13-1/4″. Apply glue to the  against the back of the leg assembly. Mark the angle on the 
edge, clamp and allow to dry.  front edge. Rip a 22.5-degree bevel at the mark. Clamp the 
step between the legs and attach using 2″ wood screws. 

 
 
   

 
 

   

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Step 24. Make and Attach the Bottom Step  Step 25. Make and Attach the Seat 
Cut a 1×6 to 16″ and rip to 5″. Position on the legs, clamp in  Cut 2 pieces of 1×6 to 16″. Apply glue to the edge, clamp 
position and attach using 2″ wood screws.  and allow to dry. Once the glue is dry, rip a 5-degree bevel 
on one edge. Place the 5-degree angle against the stile and 
mark the front edge. Rip the seat to this mark. 
Center the seat on the legs, clamp in position and attach 
using 2″ wood screws. 

 
 

   
 

   

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Step 26. Make and Install the Back Rails 

Cut 3 pieces of 1×3 to 13-1/4″ and drill pocket holes in each 
end. I cut a few pieces of scrap wood to help position the 
rails. For the bottom rail, I cut a piece of 1×2 with a 90 
degree cut at the bottom, measured 2-11/16″ and cut a 
5-degree angle. For the remaining rails, I cut a piece of 1×2 
with a 5-degree angle, measured 3-1/16″ and made a 
parallel 5-degree cut. 
Place the 2-11/16″ scrap on top of the seat rail and 
temporarily attach to the stile with painter’s tape. Place the 
bottom rail on top of the scrap, center on the stile, and 
clamp in position.  
Place the 3-1/16″ scrap on top of the bottom rail and   
temporarily attach to the stile with painter’s tape. Place the   
middle rail on top of the scrap, center on the stile, and 
clamp in position.  
Place the 3-1/16″ scrap on top of the middle rail and  Step 27. Attach the Piano Hinge 
temporarily attach to the stile with painter’s tape. Place the  Set the back leg assembly on top of the front leg assembly. 
top rail on top of the scrap, center on the stile, and clamp in  Center the p
​ iano hinge​ and temporarily attach with 
position. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.  painters tape. Attach using the screws included with the 
  hinge. 

   

 
 
 

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Step 28. Fill the Back Rail Pocket Holes  Share Your Project 
The pocket holes in the back rails are exposed. For a more  I would love to see your project! 
tailored look, I used my pocket hole plug cutter to make 
Please share some photos with me in an ​email​, post some 
plugs to fill the holes. Apply glue to the pocket holes and 
photos on the ​Saws on Skates Facebook page​, or tag me on 
insert the plugs. Trim flush once dry. 
Instagram​ (@sawsonskates). 
Related: H
​ ow to Make Pocket Hole Plugs 
 
 

Did You Enjoy This Free Plan? 

Step 29. Finish the Step Ladder Chair 
If so, would you please consider ​treating me to a coffee​? 
Sand the ladder chair, then paint or stain to match your  Thank you for your support!  
decor. 
 

 
 
 

   

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