The Woodworker Amp Woodturner - May 2022
The Woodworker Amp Woodturner - May 2022
May 2022
DESIGNER
DRAWERS
A plans-free
approach
to design
WIN!
1ST PRIZE: TREND T14 ROU
R TABLEE –
TER
+ END T12
2ND PRIZE: TRTER –
PLUNGE ROU
WORTH £557
PLUS...
● BASIC BOX-MAKING SKILLS
LLS PUT TO THE TEST www.thewoodworkermag.com
WOODWORKING GROUP
Call or go online
0300 303 88 21
IronmongeryDirect.co.uk
WELCOME
+
WIN!
SEND IN YOUR TOP
WORKSHOP HINT/TIP/POINTER
OR PIECE OF ADVICE & YOU
COULD BE IN WITH A CHANCE
OF WINNING AN AXMINSTER
1st prize: T14 2,300W 1⁄2in RIDER N0.5¹⁄₂IN JACK PLANE
– see page
ge 41 for details
workshop router with WRT 240V
router table – worth £1,200
38 HOMEGROWN &
FIT FOR AN AWARD
Jeremy Broun interviews English
Woodlands Timber Ltd, a company
passionate about trees
WIITN !
W H
We’re teaming up with woodcare experts,
Liberon, to give you the opportunity
to showcase your woodworking skills
and win a prize bundle worth over
£300. This is your last chance to enter
ahead of the 20 May 2022 deadline –
see page 30 to find out more
Christian Notley MBE pictured This year, 114 entries were received for
receiving the Queen’s Anniversary the Queen’s Anniversary Prizes and CCG was
Prize for Chichester College Group selected as one of only five FE college winners.
from HRH The Prince of Wales To date there have only been 54 FE college
with HRH The Princess Royal recipients of the 296 prizes awarded since
the programme’s inception in 1994.
This was the second Queen’s Anniversary
Prize awarded to CCG, which – as Chichester
College – was recognised for its international
provision in 2005. This time around, however,
it was the group’s furniture and upholstery
provision being celebrated.
Working with businesses, trade bodies
and other training providers, the group plays
a central role in supporting innovation and
growth, investing in skills and progression
pathways, which directly nurtures and develops
talent. More than 90% of furniture and upholstery
students at CCG secure employment by the end
of their final year, and many go on to start their
own successful businesses with the group
supporting almost 100 start-up companies.
CHICHESTER COLLEGE GROUP In the last 15 years, the group has seen
a 500% growth in student numbers for this
Prize for Education world class success with its students winning
national and international skills competitions
– such as WorldSkills, for example.
Staff and students from Chichester College Group provision across the group is, we believe, among Christian Notley MBE, Deputy Head of
(CCG) recently attended a glittering ceremony the best in the world. We’re part of WorldSkills Learning at Chichester College, is the WorldSkills
as they received a Queen’s Anniversary Prize UK’s Centre of Excellence and the only college UK Training Manager for cabinetmaking and
for Education. in the world with two WorldSkills International serves as the Chief Expert at WorldSkills. He
The Queen’s Anniversary Prizes recognise Chief Experts, for furniture making and joinery. added: “This is a moment for us all to savour
outstanding work by UK colleges and universities “This award is a mark of the progress – for all of our students, employers and parents
that shows quality and innovation, delivering real made by the group over the years, reflecting who come to us, and for the staff who work
benefits to the wider world through education our commitment to skills development in this so hard to deliver exceptional training.
training. The Prizes are the highest national industry and recognises the work of our students, “We’ve put a lot of time into ensuring we’re
honour awarded in UK further and higher who contribute so positively to the regional and not just delivering training in a highly specialised
education, granted by The Queen every two years. national economy through their work. It’s a huge field, but delivering the very best training possible,
CCG – which is comprised of Brinsbury College, testament to the team, our staff and students and that’s reflected by our performance in
Chichester College, Crawley College, Haywards – past and present.” competitions and by our students’ successes
Heath College and Worthing College – was Among those attending the ceremony at in gaining employment or running their own
recognised for its internationally renowned St James’s Palace and a special prize-winners thriving businesses in this field. I’m incredibly
work in furniture and upholstery training. dinner at Guildhall a night earlier, were former proud and this is a day we’ll always remember.”
Representatives of the college group, including students and WorldSkills Gold medallists George Ben Blackledge, Deputy CEO of WorldSkills
past and present furniture students, attended Callow and Edward Harringman, as well as UK, added: “What a tremendous accolade for
the ceremony, which was presided over by HRH current apprentice Anna Bargery. CCG, part of our amazing Centre of Excellence.
The Prince of Wales with HRH The Princess Royal. Anna said: “Studying at Brinsbury College This recognition goes to show how effective it
Andrew Green, Chief Executive Officer at CCG, has opened up so many opportunities for me is to work in partnership, cascading approaches
said: “This is a truly great moment for Chichester as I work towards my apprenticeship in furniture and techniques for developing world-class skills,
College Group. To receive this prestigious national making – and this is one that I’ll definitely never gleaned from decades at elite international
honour is a privilege and one which really affirms forget. Meeting HRH The Prince of Wales was an competition, to young people across the country.
the significance of the work our talented team honour and he was really interested to hear about To have two Gold Medallists, alongside Christian,
does. Through our investment in furniture and my studies at college alongside work with my a Training Manager and WorldSkills Chief Expert
upholstery making, we’re breathing new life employer. This whole experience has also widened at the ceremony, makes the moment complete.”
into this important sector and helping to drive my network and ambitions for when I complete For further information on Chichester College
our regional skills agenda. Our furniture my apprenticeship and future career path.” Group (CCG), see www.chigroup.ac.uk.
New Catalogue
Out Now!
TIMBER DIRECTORY
G&S Specialist Timber (Cumbria) Scawton Sawmill (North Yorkshire) Yandle & Sons Ltd (Somerset)
Tel: 01768 891 445 Tel: 01845 597 733 Tel: 01935 822 207
Web: www.toolsandtimber.co.uk Web: www.scawtonsawmill.co.uk Web: www.yandles.co.uk
summer catalogue switch LXT batteries between power tools, outdoor power equipment
and accessories, depending on the
Machine Mart’s new 2022 spring/summer task at hand.”
catalogue is now available and features a wide To find out more about Makita
range of tools and equipment. Whether you’re a UK and its wide range of products,
hobbyist, DIY enthusiast or professional, there’s bound see www.makitauk.com.
to be something to appeal to your wants and needs.
Featuring over 400 price cuts and new products, the 492-page
spring/summer catalogue is a ‘must have’ for anyone seeking a
huge choice of tools and equipment, all at unbeatable value. can now also choose to buy now,
With over 6,000 items of tools and machinery and a further pay later.
15,000 additional products online, Machine Mart ensures all the kit This way, the cost of a purchase can
and tools you need are in one place. be easily spread over 36 months, with the first repayment deferred
To order your free copy, call 0844 880 1265, visit www.machinemart. for the first six months, based on a minimum 10% deposit. Customers
co.uk or pop in to your local store. can choose from between 10-50% deposit for even lower monthly
repayments, and also benefit from a new lower interest rate of
manufacturer unveils in Jeppo, Finland, with the end user in mind. Its low profile allows
the sander to get closer to the surface, thus aiding greater control.
plans for £10m expansion The lightweight ergonomic design provides the user with a comfortable
grip, allowing it to be used for extended periods, while also making
Dakin-Flathers, the manufacturer of Saw37C bandsaw blades, the sander easy to move from job to job.
has unveiled plans to expand its existing state-of-the-art facility Even though the Mirka® DEOS 343CV is a compact direct electrical
by over 7,500m2, covering three floors at its current premises in orbital sander, its the brushless motor that provides necessary power,
West Yorkshire, England. thus allowing it to perform at the same level as larger members of
Due for completion in early 2023, the Featherstone site will allow the DEOS family.
Dakin-Flathers to service its customers, in over 100 countries globally, From an abrasive perspective, the Abranet®, Abranet Ace® and
more effectively. The new scheme will allow the company to maximise Iridium ranges provide the DEOS 343CV with a selection of premium
production capacity and improve efficiencies across the product range. abrasives, which provide the user with a consistent scratch pattern
The new extension, which can accommodate over 150 employees, and high-quality finish, regardless of application.
will also boast charging points for multiple electric vehicles, improved Pete Sartain, Industrial Sales Manager for Mirka® UK, says: “Tooling
staff facilities, flexible workspaces, and a much larger warehouse that innovation is an ongoing commitment for Mirka® and the launch of
utilises new picking and storage systems. the DEOS 343CV is the next chapter for us. Even though this tool is
Oliver Garside, Managing Director of Dakin-Flathers, explains: small, we believe it has a big future due to its versatility and ability
“Dakin-Flathers has enjoyed rapid and sustained growth, doubling to make the hardest and most inaccessible jobs look easy. In turn,
in size three times over the last 20 years, which has led us to become this will lead to increased efficiency
a market leader in our sector. and productivity, meaning that users
“We’ve invested heavily, and will continue to do so, in the business will see the tool as an asset from
and our employees. Our continued growth will be supported by a range the first use.” To find out more,
of exciting new ventures and an investment programme in excess of see www.mirka.com/uk/uk.
£10m over the next 24 months. These really are exciting times for
Dakin-Flathers, our employees, customers, and for UK manufacturing.”
Dakin-Flathers’ growing green credentials will also benefit from
an expansion of its PV solar range. Renewable energy generation
will increase from 265,000kWh per annum to more than 900,000kWh,
thus making the factory as environmentally efficient as possible.
If you have a requirement for bandsaw blades, speak with a
member of the team on 01977 705 600, email info@dakin-flathers.
com or visit the website: www.dakin-flathers.com.
selection for users. Each of the 27 products has been specifically Mouldings
Made in Germany
formulated to provide the best possible finish, every time. Such
products include a water-resistant BS EN 204 Class D4 wood adhesive Top quality
for the internal and external bonding of wood, metal, stone, concrete, Hand Certified
Tools Hardwoods
brick, masonry and various plastics. There’s also a rapid curing, one
part BS EN 204 Class D4 liquid glue adhesive, which expands slightly Toishi-Ohishi
to increase bite strength. It’s ideal for bonding rubber and PVCu where Japanese
Waterstones
fast assembly times are essential. Finally, Joiners Mate Mitre Bond
is a two-part, high strength instant bonding system comprising an
adhesive and aerosol activator, ideal for both interior and exterior use.
With new premium packaging, each product’s intended application
Drilling Tools made to the
has been accentuated to make it even easier to quickly identify the highest standard
ideal solution for the job at hand. To find out more, see www.geocel.
co.uk/brands/joiners-mate. G&S
Specialist
Timber TOOLS AND MACHINERY
www.toolsandtimber.co.uk
you can order online now
DEWALT DCK2050E2T-GB 18V XR BRUSHLESS G3 COMPACT TWIN KIT WITH 2 X POWERSTACK™ BATTERIES
MANUFACTURER: DeWalt
D&M GUIDE PRICE: See website
The DCK2050 Brushless Compact Twin Kit from DeWalt
features the DCD805 hammer drill driver and DCF805
impact driver, packaged together for added convenience.
The DCD805 is DeWalt’s latest and most powerful
brushless two-speed hammer drill driver, which delivers
up to 90Nm of torque in a compact 177mm body, engineered
to give the greatest performance on the toughest of jobsites.
Two-speed and 15 torque settings afford the user ultimate
control over drilling and fastening applications, and an
enhanced pivoting LED positioned on the foot offers
greater visibility in dark and confined spaces.
The DCF850 impact driver delivers 205Nm in a 100mm
compact body, making it ideal for a wide range of applications
across construction, industrial and automotive environments.
Other features include a three-mode switch for enhanced
control including Precision Drive, which prevents the material
and fastener being damaged in smaller jobs and a LED ring
light delivers optimum visibility in the toughest environments.
The kit includes two new compact POWERSTACK batteries,
which deliver 50% more power with a 25% smaller footprint,
both of which are compatible with existing 18V XR tools.
See our website for further details on the latest DeWalt
POWERSTACK technology and associated kit and tools.
Features include:
• Full rugged waterproof base
• Hard body construction to protect contents
• Unique to the market patented zipper top
allows for easy access and visibility
• Pouches click on and off and for ultimate
tool organisation, are also compatible
with patented ClipTech® pouches
• Includes ClipTech® Hub
• Structured exterior pockets
• Steel ClipTech® bar holds pouches securely
in place – pouches sold separately
PLEASE CHECK OUR WEBSITE – WWW.DM-TOOLS.CO.UK – FOR THE LATEST PRICES AND DEALS
THETOOLSUPERSTORE
HAND, POWER TOOLS & MACHINERY SPECIALIST
DM-TOOLS.CO.UK
RANG OOLS
HAND T
OV R
600 POEW
TOOLS O ER
DISPLAYN
TREND
T12
& T14
ROUTERS
Trend recently launched
two new 12⁄ in variable
speed plunge routers:
the T12 and T14. Built
for heavy-duty and trade
use, they replace the
previous T10 and T11.
Both models promise
a host of brand-new
features, as Jonathan
Salisbury discovers
Setting up – no power! The T12’s rack & pinion depth post nut The T14’s plunge depth limiter prevents over-cutting
Using the 2-in-1 height adjuster The underside provides table lift The cyclone dust adaptor fitted in place
The improved integrated power trigger Easy to use seven-level variable-speed control dial
or lost, then restored. The soft-start feature, On both new routers, locking occurs once
common to almost all routers nowadays, the lever is released. For free movement, it
is excellent. If there’s any movement once needs to be rotated until it clicks, and once the
either model is switched on, it’s not noticeable. cutter is located in the desired position, a gentle
There’s also a seven-level variable-speed flick of a tab releases the spring-loaded lever,
Top-mount cyclone extraction features an enhanced control, with a range from 9,000-22,000rpm. locking the depth. The only obvious disadvantage
dust adaptor, which prevents hoses from ‘snagging’ The plunge is very nicely balanced – easy to here is that the lever then has to be pressed
push down and rising very smoothly at the correct down in order to unlock.
The extraction connection point is conveniently speed, if both handles are adequately gripped,
mounted on top of the router body, preventing of course. There’s a slight crunch as the springs Quick-set depth post
hoses from snagging on jigs and the workpiece. start to compress; these are internally housed The old depth stop bar has also been replaced.
The substantial mains cable is located next to prevent dust ingress. I was also pleased to A rack & pinion depth post is operated by a
to the extraction port, which is ideal for my find that the previous plunge lock system has large red wheel with indexed 1mm increments
preferred over-the-shoulder method, keeping been completely redesigned. I never really for fast, easy set up. There’s also a micrometer-
it, and the hose, out of harm’s way. liked the lever on the T10/T11, which had to style adjuster positioned on top of the depth
be pressed down firmly in order to lock it. This post bar, with labelled 0.1mm increments and
Power switch & plunge lock required a steady hand, a certain confidence, an easy-to-read display for precision depth
The pull up/push down power switch on the and often resulted in letting go of the handle. adjustments. The zeroing function ring located
previous T10/T11 models has thankfully been beside the red wheel helps to make adjustments
replaced with a trigger on the handle, which easier to calculate. It moves independently
helps to prevent movement when switching on. for recalibration, but I found it far too difficult
Anti-restart protection also prevents start-up to rotate. Recalibration on the micrometer is
if the trigger switch lock is left engaged after also very stiff and the alignment mark scribed
the power supply is momentarily interrupted, on the post isn’t very obvious. The three-
position rotating turret on the base, used
The new auto-lock plunge lever Quick-set depth post with fine height adjuster
The three-position rotating turret The zero reset ring is difficult to turn Comparing the bases of the T14 (left) and T12 (right)
to pre-set plunge depth limits for fast, Automatic LED lights illuminate the work rotate the lever sufficiently to allow
repeatable batch and stepped cutting, area and are intended to improve safety plunge movement, hold it while plunging,
is a familiar feature that’s been retained. and accuracy in low-light conditions. However, then release it to lock. This can be carried
Both routers slide easily on their phenolic, I sometimes found these a little bright and out without letting go of the handles and,
low-friction, anti-scratch baseplates and they can cast shadows, especially with the more often than not, there’s no need to use
threaded holes allow Trend guide bushes, dust extraction unit attached and large the catch to keep it in free-plunge mode.
jigs and other devices to be attached directly cutter installed. In my opinion, having the
without the need for an additional sub-base. option to switch them off would be good. T14 in router table mode
However, you may find that add-ons from other After some hand-held work, it was time
manufacturers won’t fit. A 30mm guide bush to try the T14 mounted in a router table.
for routing with templates is supplied, and the Hand-held routing I used the Trend WRT 240V workshop model,
line-up pin ensures the bush is centred with Following a detailed inspection of both units, originally designed for use with the T11. The
the collet. The T12’s base aperture – 70mm I was keen to start putting them through T14’s handles are wider than those on the
at its widest and 65mm at its narrowest – their paces. The 2,300W motor and 80mm T11 and so the new router doesn’t simply drop
is designed to suit large profile and jointing plunge depth is sufficient to cope with deep through the hole as before. It can be installed
cutters. On the T14, the extra-wide 75mm cuts, following the recommended maximum with some careful manoeuvring after the insert
aperture will accommodate over-size cutters, of 50mm steps. As with most large routers, plate is attached, since without assistance it’d
such as panel raisers, when used with a a fair amount of noise is generated on start be tricky to hold the router in the correct place
router table. up, but this was less than expected; wearing under the table if trying to mount it from below.
Parallel fences are of the standard type, appropriate PPE is still a must, however. The Router table cam-lock quick-release mounts
the T12’s being slightly smaller than those T12 is heavier than others I’ve used, but once that rotate into recesses located in the base
on the T14. Both models feature a micro- in place it felt well balanced and the relatively are an optional accessory; these make mounting
adjustable side fence with 0.1mm increments low centre of gravity provided sufficient stability. and unmounting the router quick and easy,
and moveable facings for accurate edge Care is still required when cutting slots into but I used the simpler method of the supplied
rebating, grooving and moulding. a narrow edge, such as a door, and a suitable countersink screws. Plate height is adjusted
jig to increase the router base’s surface area with small grub screws so it’s flush with the
would be preferable for carrying out similar top surface, then locked in place with further
routing tasks. countersink screws.
I started using the auto-locking plunge The WRT’s assembly instructions have
lever as suggested. Once released, the lever yet to be updated for use with the T14, and
returned to its resting position as auto-lock as such, there’s no mention of the NVR – No
is re-engaged, but it was then just out of Volt Release – switch having been replaced
comfortable reach – an undesirable situation
when the router cutter is still spinning under
the surface. The lever can be adjusted by
loosening a screw, moving it to the desired
resting position closer to the handle, then
retightening. This did improve things, but
I soon found that it’s actually easier to just
The released plunge lever is out of reach... ... but adjustment is easy
The micrometer fine height adjuster features 0.1mm increments The plunge lock lever is tucked out of the way
THE VERDICT
PROS
High quality in all respects; ease of use;
new features are excellent – especially
The router in use, with push stick
cyclone dust adaptor, integrated power
trigger and height adjuster; the T14
doesn’t require a separate router lift
CONS
Using the T14’s supplied 2-in-1 height
adjuster tool is laborious; zero reset rings
on the depth stop bar are too tight
RATING:
PERFORMANCE: 4.75 OUT OF 5
RATING:
VALUE: 5 OUT OF 5
A good finish was achieved on various timbers The integrated router rest aids setup
cutting area
(Width/Opening exc. inc.
• Table tilts BEST LASER
Model Mounting Depth) mm VAT VAT £FROM ONLY
Clarke Bolted 150/152/61 £14.99 £14.99 Depth of 0-45° SELLER 37 .99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
£45.59 inc.VAT CMFT250
GUIDE
CHT152 Power Cut (Wood/ exc. inc. CSS400C
Record Clamped 75/50/32 £24.99 £24.99 Model (W) Steel) VAT VAT Model Motor Speed RPM exc.VAT inc.VAT
TV75B CJS400 400W 55/ - mm £15.99 £19.19 CSS400D 120W 400-1600 £99.98 £119.98
Clarke Bolted 180/205/78 £36.99 £36.99 CON750 750W 80/10mm £29.98 £35.98 CSS16VB 90W 550-1600 £114.99 £137.99 Blade Max Cut
WV7 Bosch PST700E 500W 70/4mm £48.99 £58.79 CSS400C 90W 550-1600 £144.99 £173.99 Dia/Bore Depth/
Model (mm) Cross exc.VAT inc.VAT
1000’S SPECIALIST WOODWORKING TOOLS ONLINE – MACHINEMART.CO.UK CMS10S2B 255/3 90/340 £159.00 £190.80
V
VISIT YOUR LOCAL SUPERSTORE OPEN MON-FRI 8.30-6.00,
SAT 8.30-5.30, SUN 10.00-4.00
5 EASY WAYS TO BUY...
BARNSLEY Pontefract Rd, Barnsley, S71 1EZ 01226 732297 EXETER 16 Trusham Rd. EX2 8QG 01392 256 744 NORWICH 282a Heigham St. NR2 4LZ 01603 766402 SUPERSTORES
B’HAM GREAT BARR 4 Birmingham Rd.
B’HAM HAY MILLS 1152 Coventry Rd, Hay Mills
0121 358 7977
0121 7713433
GATESHEAD 50 Lobley Hill Rd. NE8 4YJ
GLASGOW 280 Gt Western Rd. G4 9EJ
0191 493 2520
0141 332 9231
NORTHAMPTON Beckett Retail Park, St James’ Mill Rd 01604 267840 NATIONWIDE
NOTTINGHAM 211 Lower Parliament St. 0115 956 1811
BOLTON 1 Thynne St. BL3 6BD 01204 365799 GLOUCESTER 221A Barton St. GL1 4HY 01452 417 948 PETERBOROUGH 417 Lincoln Rd. Millfield 01733 311770
BRADFORD 105-107 Manningham Lane. BD1 3BN 01274 390962 GRIMSBY ELLIS WAY, DN32 9BD 01472 354435 PLYMOUTH 58-64 Embankment Rd. PL4 9HY 01752 254050 ONLINE
BRIGHTON 123 Lewes Rd, BN2 3QB
BRISTOL 1-3 Church Rd, Lawrence Hill. BS5 9JJ
01273 915999
0117 935 1060
HULL 8-10 Holderness Rd. HU9 1EG
ILFORD 746-748 Eastern Ave. IG2 7HU
01482 223161
0208 518 4286
POOLE 137-139 Bournemouth Rd. Parkstone
PORTSMOUTH 277-283 Copnor Rd. Copnor
01202 717913
023 9265 4777
www.machinemart.co.uk
BURTON UPON TRENT 12a Lichfield St. DE14 3QZ 01283 564 708 IPSWICH Unit 1 Ipswich Trade Centre, Commercial Road 01473 221253 PRESTON 53 Blackpool Rd. PR2 6BU 01772 703263
CAMBRIDGE 181-183 Histon Road, Cambridge. CB4 3HL 01223 322675
CARDIFF 44-46 City Rd. CF24 3DN 029 2046 5424
LEEDS 227-229 Kirkstall Rd. LS4 2AS
LEICESTER 69 Melton Rd. LE4 6PN
0113 231 0400
0116 261 0688
SHEFFIELD 453 London Rd. Heeley. S2 4HJ 0114 258 0831 TELESALES
SIDCUP 13 Blackfen Parade, Blackfen Rd 0208 3042069
CARLISLE 85 London Rd. CA1 2LG 01228 591666 LINCOLN Unit 5. The Pelham Centre. LN5 8HG 01522 543 036 SOUTHAMPTON 516-518 Portswood Rd. 023 8055 7788
0115 956 5555
CHELTENHAM 84 Fairview Road. GL52 2EH 01242 514 402 LIVERPOOL 80-88 London Rd. L3 5NF 0151 709 4484 SOUTHEND 1139-1141 London Rd. Leigh on Sea 01702 483 742
CHESTER 43-45 St. James Street. CH1 3EY 01244 311258 LONDON CATFORD 289/291 Southend Lane SE6 3RS 0208 695 5684
COLCHESTER 4 North Station Rd. CO1 1RE 01206 762831 LONDON 6 Kendal Parade, Edmonton N18 020 8803 0861
STOKE-ON-TRENT 382-396 Waterloo Rd. Hanley
SUNDERLAND 13-15 Ryhope Rd. Grangetown
01782 287321
0191 510 8773
CLICK & COLLECT
COVENTRY Bishop St. CV1 1HT 024 7622 4227 LONDON 503-507 Lea Bridge Rd. Leyton, E10 020 8558 8284 OVER 10,500 LOCATIONS
SWANSEA 7 Samlet Rd. Llansamlet. SA7 9AG 01792 792969
CROYDON 423-427 Brighton Rd, Sth Croydon 020 8763 0640 LUTON Unit 1, 326 Dunstable Rd, Luton LU4 8JS 01582 728 063
SWINDON 21 Victoria Rd. SN1 3AW 01793 491717
DARLINGTON 214 Northgate. DL1 1RB 01325 380 841 MAIDSTONE 57 Upper Stone St. ME15 6HE 01622 769 572
DEAL (KENT) 182-186 High St. CT14 6BQ 01304 373 434 MANCHESTER ALTRINCHAM 71 Manchester Rd. Altrincham 0161 9412 666 TWICKENHAM 83-85 Heath Rd.TW1 4AW 020 8892 9117
DERBY Derwent St. DE1 2ED 01332 290 931 MANCHESTER CENTRAL 209 Bury New Road M8 8DU 0161 241 1851 WARRINGTON Unit 3, Hawley’s Trade Pk.
WIGAN 2 Harrison Street, WN5 9AU
01925 630 937
01942 323 785
CALL & COLLECT
DONCASTER Wheatley Hall Road 01302 245 999 MANCHESTER OPENSHAW Unit 5, Tower Mill, Ashton Old Rd 0161 223 8376
DUNDEE 24-26 Trades Lane. DD1 3ET
EDINBURGH 163-171 Piersfield Terrace
01382 225 140
0131 659 5919
MANSFIELD 169 Chesterfield Rd. South
MIDDLESBROUGH Mandale Triangle, Thornaby
01623 622160
01642 677881
WOLVERHAMPTON Parkfield Rd. Bilston
WORCESTER 48a Upper Tything. WR1 1JZ
01902 494186
01905 723451
SAME DAY
32002RH Calls to the catalogue request number above (0844 880 1265) cost 7p per minute plus your telephone company’s network access charge. For security reasons, calls may be monitored. All prices correct
*
at time of going to press. We reserve the right to change products and prices at any time. All offers subject to availability, E&OE. Terms & conditions apply see machinemart.co.uk/finance for more details
1ST PRIZE: T14 2,300W 12⁄ in workshop
WIN! router with WRT 240V workshop router table
2ND PRIZE: T12 2,300W 12⁄ in plunge router
To celebrate the launch of the new T12 and
T14 routers, Trend is giving two lucky readers
the chance to win either first prize of a T14
workshop router & WRT router table, or second
prize of a T12 plunge router – ggood luck!
WRT 240V floor-standing
workshop router table
• Packed with necessary features to
maximise the versatility of all popular
portable routers
• Phenolic surface: ultra-durable, stable and
flat surface for friction-free stock feeding
• Quick-release aluminium extrusion
back fence with sliding MDF cheeks
• Removable 6.35mm-thick aluminium
insert plate with 98mm diameter aperture,
pre-drilled for Trend T11 and T14 routers
• Quick raiser and quick release facility
for Trend T11 and T14 routers
T14 2,300W 1⁄2in workshop router
• High back fence with fully adjustable
guard assembly
High-performance plunge router with • Top-mount cyclone extraction • Fully adjustable side finger pressure
advanced safety features, engineered • Ergonomic inclined handles • Front and side adjustable feather
to deliver reliable, fast and accurate cuts. • Quick-set depth post pressure guards
Perfect for hand-held and router table use • Micrometer fine height adjuster • Steel leg frame assembly with adjustable feet
• Powerful 2,300W motor • Integrated power trigger prevents accidental • Six insert rings to reduce table aperture
• 80mm plunge depth movement and kick-back when switching • Lead on pin for bearing-guided curved work
• Automatic power shut-off the router on and off • Edge planing facility on back fence of 1.4mm
• Router table safety switch – replaces the need • Micro-adjustable side fence and 2.4mm
for a typical NVR – No Volt Release – switch • Automatic LED worklights • Cable management clips
• 2-in-1 plunge & router table height adjuster • Corrosion-resistant phosphor bronze bushings • No volt release switch
• Trend Base Configuration • Anti-scratch baseplate • Mitre fence with zeroing and spelch
• Precision centring system • Integrated router rest block facility
• Auto-lock plunge lever • ER style collet
• Router table cam-lock quick-release mounts
• Extra-wide 75mm base aperture SPECIFICATION
• Seven-level variable speed control – ranges Rating: Professional/trade
from 9,000-22,000rpm Voltage: 240V
Plunge stroke: 0-80mm
Power input: 2,300W
Standard collet diameter: ¹₂⁄ in
No load speed: 9,000-22,000rpm
Dust spout size ID: 35mm
Guide bush diameter supplied: 30mm
Cutter diameter max – table mounted: 85mm
Cutter diameter max – hand-held: 50mm
Base aperture: 75mm
Rod diameter: 10mm
Rod length: 360mm
Rod centres: 110mm
Weight: 6.5kg
Sound pressure Lpa: 95.1 dB(A)1
Acoustic pressure Lwa: 106.1 dB(A)2
Hand arm vibration: < 2.1m/s²
worth
£1,200
2ND PRIZE
worth
£557
SPECIFICATION
Rating: Professional/craftsman
Table top size: 804 × 604 × 35mm
Bench height: 890mm
Router cutter aperture: 98mm
Max cutter diameter: 86mm
Max cutter height: 55mm
Max component length: 800mm
Insert ring sizes: 20, 31.8/67.5, 35, 54, 68 & 83mm
Backfence height: 68mm
Dust spout aperture: 57mm • Wide base aperture – to suit
Edge planing up to: 1.4 & 2.4mm large profile and jointing cutters
Weight: 27.5kg • ER style collet
Voltage: 240V • Three-position rotating turret
Max material thickness with pressures: 60mm • Plunge depth limiter
Max material width with pressures: 130mm – • Spindle lock
cutter centre
SPECIFICATION
Rating: Professional/trade
Voltage: 240V
Plunge stroke: 0-80mm
Power input: 2,300W
Standard collet diameter: ¹₂⁄ in
No load speed: 9,000-22,000rpm
Dust spout size ID: 35mm
Guide bush diameter supplied: 30mm
Cutter diameter max (hand-held): 50mm
Base aperture size: 70mm
Rod diameter: 10mm
Rod length: 360mm
Rod centres: 100mm
Weight: 6.4kg
Sound pressure Lpa: 95.1 dB(A)1
T12 2,300W ¹⁄₂in plunge router Acoustic pressure Lwa: 106.1 dB(A)2
Hand arm vibration: < 2.1m/s²
High-performance trade-focused plunge router
with advanced safety features, engineered
to deliver reliable, fast and accurate cuts HOW TO ENTER
• Powerful 2,300W motor
• 80mm plunge depth To be in with a chance of winning either 1st prize of a T14 2,300W ¹⁄₂in workshop
• Trend Base Configuration router with WRT 240V workshop router table, or 2nd prize of a T12 2,300W
• Auto-lock plunge lever ¹⁄₂in plunge router, visit www.thewoodworkermag.com/category/win and follow
• Automatic power shut-off the instructions given. In order to qualify for entry, you must register as a website
• Seven-level variable speed control
and forum member – see www.thewoodworkermag.com/forums – tell us why
ranges – from 9,000-22,000rpm
• Top-mount cyclone extraction you’d like to win either or both prizes, as well as answering the multiple choice
• Ergonomic inclined handles question below:
• Quick-set depth post
• Micrometer fine height adjuster QUESTION: What’s the plunge stroke on the T14 router?
• Integrated power trigger
A: 0-75mm B: 0-80mm C: 0-60mm
• Micro-adjustable side fence
• Automatic LED worklights The winners will be randomly drawn from all correct entries. The first prize winner will be selected followed by
• Corrosion-resistant phosphor bronze bushings the second prize winner. The closing date for the competition is 20 May 2022. Only one entry per person; multiple
• Anti-scratch baseplate entries will be discarded. Employees of MyTimeMedia Ltd and Trend are not eligible to enter this competition
• Integrated router rest
GENERAL FINISHES
PEARL EFFECTS &
ENDURO EXTENDER
Add a metallic touch to your furniture
projects with this great range of Pearl
Effects paints from General Finishes
he Pearl Effects range from
Garden planter
I decided to apply the Pearl Effects to a garden A suitable base coat is first The base coat is de-nibbed with An external top coat is applied
planter I recently made. I started by applying a applied – I used a milk paint a fine abrasive and dusted off to seal the surface, ready for
base coat of milk paint, choosing to use Patina from General Finishes the Pearl Effects
Green, but the Pearl Effects can be used over
any of the General Finishes milk paints, stains The Enduro Extender stops the Pearl Effects but if applying outside in warm weather,
and water-based topcoats in the range. from drying too quickly so that you can work it it does begin to dry quite rapidly, even with
One coat of the Patina Green was sufficient in easier, but you still need a bit of practise to the Extender, so you need to decide if you’re
to gain a solid base colour. I gave it a quick de-nib achieve the desired effect. It’s not a cheap finish happy with what you have fairly quickly.
once dry and a coat of Exterior Top Coat to seal, but a little goes a very long way. I used a small I’m quite pleased with the result although
then another de-nib, and I was ready to go. amount of the Pearl with a squirt of Extender, the finished photo doesn’t do it justice as the
The instructions advise not to go back over which was sufficient to coat the entire planter. camera picks up the silver and misses a lot of
previously applied Pearl Effects as you work, First dab the brush onto a rag to soak off any the underlying blue, but it’s fairly uniform and the
but the Argentine Pearl is a bold silver and I found excess, then dab, drag and brush the finish effect I achieved is quite impressive in sunlight.
that it does block out the base colour if brushed over the work. The silvering begins to build up A bit more practice on some better timber should
on too thickly, even though it’s meant to be a while still allowing the blue to break through. yield more consistent and controllable results.
translucent finish, so I went for a dry brush effect. If you over-apply, simply wipe off with a cloth,
Conclusion
Although the directions state that the range
is only suitable for indoor use, I gave it a couple
of coats of external finish to seal it in so it should
hopefully stand up to our British climate, but for
indoor use on mouldings and furniture you can
achieve some nice effects, especially if you mix
the Pearls available and alter the base coats.
SPECIFICATION
Pearl Effects colours: Argentine; Bronze;
Burnished; Champagne; Copper; Tawny
A sparse amount is needed; a small squirt Wipe any excess off onto a rag to allow a fine, Quantity sizes: 473 & 946ml
of Extender allows for a longer working time dry build-up of the Pearl Effects
Typical prices: Pearl Effects – £51.75 (473ml);
Enduro Extender – £7.95 (118ml)
Web: www.eurofinishes.com
THE VERDICT
PROS
Nice metallic effects; easy to apply
CONS
Achieving the best results does require
practice; quite expensive
As you brush it on the silvering becomes Although the photo looks blotchy, the finish RATING: 3.5 out of 5
apparent while the blue still shows through is uniform and actually quite pleasing
T12 T14
THE BEST... 2300W 1/2”
PLUNGE
ROUTER
2300W 1/2”
WORKSHOP
ROUTER
THE
FURNITURE AWARD
20 22
For the second year running, this is your opportunity to
be part of a prestigious annual award, which champions
UK furniture design and making talent while celebrating
the life and work of the late Alan Peters OBE
&
his annual award celebrates the legacy of one of his respect and understanding of how wood behaves and the
PRIZES OFFERED
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AWARD voucher
WINNERS 2ND
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Please visit www.mytimemedia.co.uk/terms for full terms & conditions
PROJECT Pigeon hole box
a dozen housings, tens of straight edges and – an inglorious U-turn that meant a spot nebulous, something much more of a feeling
right-angles, and many acts of measuring, of awkward grain being shown on one of for the tool and material. Now, that may sound
marking, and fettling with chisel and plane, the front edges where again a small flaw, laughably Obi Wan Kenobi-ish but, believe it or
which add up to lots of practice. albeit natural, seems to be writ very large. not, it’s a feeling whose trustworthiness definitely
A router table would’ve made short increases with practice and observation of my
work of this project, of course, while INCRA Do Jedi make boxes? mistakes; its substance, I suppose, is what you’d
jig proficionados would’ve produced something Then again, mistakes are part and parcel of call ‘experience’ wherein lies accuracy of hand
with the precision of a Swiss watch. However, a hand-worked exercise like this, where the and eye. Anyway, it’s obvious from this outing
the point of my exercise was to try the steadiness aim is to repeatedly practise cutting, testing, that I’ve a very long way to go before becoming
of my hand and the beadiness of my Mk.1 eyeball adjusting and fitting – practice that you a box-making Jedi.
by using just a bench hook and a few hand tools: wouldn’t gain by using, say, a router table. After completing my labours at the bench
steel rule and try-square, sharp pencil and Setting up a machine accurately is a skill in hook, the pigeon holes were glued up and,
marking knife – which provides a more positive itself, of course, but once configured – which following some last-minute easing and adjusting,
guide to cutting edges than does the pencil – can be done at no risk to the project by using given a suitably simple finish of sanding sealer
and a dovetail saw; I also had a broad chisel to pieces of scrap – it allows you to repeat a cut – the inside faces had been sealed prior to
set the edges of the trenched housings, and a exactly over and over again almost without assembly, taking care to avoid the faces and
needle-like 3mm chisel to remove their waste. thought. When you’re working by hand, edges to be glued.
As ever, my ancient Stanley No.220 block plane however, concentration has to be brought As a final touch, I may shame the Devil
proved handy, being as good as a try plane to bear on every cut because each one is and fill the open ends of those housings with
when sizing and truing up work of this size! effectively a new enterprise – as I ably a dark wax to create contrasting points of detail,
The lemonwood I’d chosen for the job is, demonstrated by daydreaming myself into though no-one will ever see them, of course!
as I may’ve said before, a smooth, pale timber, dropping an almighty clanger, the tell-tale sign Was it worth it? Well, you can fit a fag paper
whose buttery texture makes it an attractive of which is there for you to spot in these photos. – or three – into some of the joints, but I think
and affordable alternative to boxwood, its fine The process leading to every one of there’s still enough right-angled neatness in
grain cutting cleanly and planing well, even on these cuts begins in the broad base of good that creamy lemonwood to save the day,
the end-grain. In fact, it planes so easily that practice – establishing datum edges and and the benefits of the practice will be
in trimming the shelves of the pigeon holes making right-angles square, trusting their carried over to my next task. Oh,
to width, I was a little overzealous and ended accuracy but still measuring twice, then and I now have somewhere to
up with a couple that were a gnat’s too narrow. cutting using sharp tools – but it narrows down put my shot glasses, too.
It would’ve been quicker and easier to simply to something altogether less methodical and
cut a fresh part, of course, but in keeping with much, well, ‘fuzzier’.
the spirit of the exercise, I accepted my mistake It may just be me, but it seems that
and replaced the lost material with slivers there’s a grey area in which the finer
of beech veneer glued across the ends and points of accuracy depend upon how
trimmed to fit in their housings. consistently you hold the marking knife
When making the housings themselves, and try-square; upon what sense you have
meanwhile, I’d decided for no good reason of the offset required for your saw’s kerf
that I can recall to stop them where they met when lining up the blade for a cut; even upon
the back piece, but cut them through to the how much give there’ll be in the ends of sawn
front edges of the box’s four sides – something fibres of a particular timber and the ‘fudge
I wouldn’t do in a larger joint, because I think factor’ that this might afford in the fit of the
stopped housings give a neater finish. In this mating parts.
case – where the lemonwood sides are just It seems to me that these, and a dozen minute
4mm thick, and even a tiny gap in a joint looks variables like them, can make the difference
as wide as a church door – it became clear that between a neat interference and a loose fit.
the consequence of putting my chisel work on There are so many variables, in fact,
show was that the small inconsistencies arising that I reckon the angle and pressure I apply
through having judged the depth of the housings to a chisel’s cutting edge when shaving the
by eye would add up to untidiness. Accordingly, final whisker of end-grain off an edge goes
I swapped the sides over so as to put the beyond what my hand or eye can honestly
stopped ends of the housing to the claim to consciously measure; instead, the 5 It’s when you start putting things
fore, and hide their open ends at the back determining force seems altogether more together that the cracks start to show
A question of space
For one thing, there’s the shed’s ever-decreasing
floor area. The product of feet measured this
way by fewer feet measured that way is too few
square feet to mention by the time a workbench,
two bikes, step ladder, garden spade, fork, rake,
etc., buckets, tins of paint ancient and modern,
my essential ‘thinking chair’, and an ever-changing Bending to retrieve a hand drill from the a portable repository of every necessary
muddle of oddly-shaped reclaimed wood have shadowy depths of a tool chest makes itself tool of their livelihood, conveyed by horse
been taken into account. As things stand, lean, felt in the lumbar region in a way that taking and cart from one place of employment to
and not infrequently fall over, there’s barely the drill down from a hook does not, just as the next, there to guard against theft as much
space to swing a brace and bit, never mind turning on the kitchen tap is so much easier as accidental damage. Not to mention impress
accommodate what amounts almost to a shed than hauling water from the village well. And the new master with the quality and sharpness
within a shed. Clearing space for the dinosaur yet, I can’t seem to shake off this nostalgic of his blades, ably demonstrated by a fine spread
footprint and dead weight of a tool chest is longing for a tool chest, or indeed the village of frame-and-panel joinery or dazzling marquetry
likely to create more problems than it solves. well now that I take note of our last water bill. concealed beneath the plain black exterior.
Then there’s my back; we’ve all got one of But in 2022, when this amateur’s hobby
those I realise, but you know what I mean. 20 Four-square chest rarely takes him further than the home, digging
years on from all that reckless weight-lifting you In the age of the village well, there’d be no for tools inside a floor-bound chest seems more
do when you think your spine’s indestructible, question around having a tool chest. For the like archaeology than woodwork. Now, where’s
even putting your socks on can be painful. journeyman joiner, the four-square chest was that pencil...
HOMEGROWN &
FIT FOR AN AWARD
Jeremy Broun interviews English Woodlands
Timber Ltd, a company passionate about trees
imber selection is all-important the oldest sustainable resource on the planet. Furniture Award 2022, as Marketing Manager
last at least as long as the tree took to grow. But what does this really mean and entail?
With this in mind, it therefore seems According to Sarah, it involves everything from
fitting that the Alan Peters Furniture Award using renewable energy for power and fuel
has embraced the support of a homegrown to run the company’s buildings and machines,
English timber company – English Woodlands learning and adopting lean thinking and
Timber Ltd – itself an award winner, as a 2022 continuous improvement into everyday work,
prize sponsor. as well as growing the expertise of their dedicated
team. “It’s about making it easier for customers
Focus on sustainability to buy beautiful wood in person and online
English Woodlands Timber Ltd – integrating but ultimately, above all else, the core of
Hillgrove Timber company – has been recognised our mission is a focus on the sustainable,
by the TTJ Awards as ‘Best Small Timber responsible, sourcing of wood.”
Measuring up a 70mm kiln-dried waney-edge Business’ for three years in a row. Building on
cedar of Lebanon board history, tradition and legacy, EWT has evolved Forestry consciousness
alongside makers and woodworkers into a “Fundamentally, our understanding of
GROWN IN BRITAIN modern business with a focus on sustainability, wood has evolved out of an understanding of
so that it’ll hopefully be around in another 75 trees – we believe that this is where it all begins.”
years, continuing to serve makers with beautiful Sustainable timber is a by-product of woodland
timbers. Some of those makers are widely and forest management practices, which involves
recognised and admired in the field of fine trees, soil, water courses, wildlife and the inherent
furniture making and design, including Simon biodiversity of the environment being nurtured
Thomas Pirie, James Ryan and Sebastian Cox. and cared for.
As a way of supporting British forestry English Woodlands Timber has welcomed It’s important to note that without woodland
and encouraging more woodland into the opportunity to sponsor the Alan Peters management, there’d be no wood – or at least
management, Grown In Britain created a
certification standard for homegrown timber THE ALAN PETERS FURNITURE AWARD 2022
to give assurance for all wood sourced from This annual award celebrates the legacy of one of Britain’s most prominent furniture
forests felled under license from the Forestry designer-makers of the late 20th century, aiming to encourage talent in the craft of furniture
Commission, or as part of a management plan design and making. English Woodlands Timber is the second prize sponsor of the 2022
agreed in accordance with the UK Woodland award. For further information, see pages 28-29 or visit organiser Jeremy Broun’s
Assurance Standard (UKWAS) website: www.woodomain.com
Programming the wide belt sander A wide belt sander and thicknesser dresses Display boards of waney-edge walnut and
the timber, revealing the beauty within rippled ash reveal stunning grain figuring
there shouldn’t be. This is a mindset that’s the Hillgrove Timber Company flag. state-of-the-art equipment, such as a wide
been instilled in EWT since the 1940s, when “The Reserve looks for timber that falls belt sander and thicknesser, part of the service
it was established: “In post World War II Britain, outside of the range of grade standards, also involves machining and sanding timbers.
the origins of our business are in forestry and which normally applies to hardwoods “English Woodlands Timber is second prize
sawmilling. As such, forestry consciousness for furniture, cabinetmaking or joinery sponsor of the Alan Peters Furniture Award
is therefore built into our timber business. purposes. These special boards have qualities 2022, and once the winner is announced,
Our mission is to source wood close to home; that make them even more unique, which are we’ll be excited to share what we do. As such,
wood that’s been responsibly sourced, which treasured, celebrated and kept aside to ensure he/she will be invited to visit our woodyard
has travelled fewer miles, been through fewer they’ll be saved from general production. These and woodsheds in Cocking, West Sussex, to
processes, and therefore had less of a negative are the sorts of boards that inspire and excite select something rare, valuable, special and
impact on the environment. Sarah continues: furniture makers, and used in the making of extraordinary for their prize, which can be
“Native British woodlands are the source of heirloom pieces and award-winning works. used in a future project," Sarah comments. The
some of our most extraordinary timber. One “Our homegrown logs are sawn through range of timbers on display is substantial and
of the greatest joys is finding these trees due & through during the autumn, winter and includes ash, beech, cedar of Lebanon, cherry,
to be felled as part of a management plan, or spring months. They’re then put into stick Douglas fir, elm, larch, maple, oak, London plane,
those already thinned and left at roadside in before being stacked and stored in the open, sweet chestnut and sycamore. “Of course, we’ll
log form, ready to undergo sawmilling and in intact boule form for air-drying at a rate of be interested to see how the selected boards
drying, so that in time, they can be used by a year per inch of thickness while the individual are used,” Sarah finishes, which is a sentiment
creative designers and dedicated craftspeople, boards slowly release moisture. The seasoning shared by myself and the other judges.
and transformed into special pieces of furniture.” process reduces moisture content sufficiently
– between 10-13% MC – which allows the ENGLISH WOODLANDS TIMBER LTD
Hillgrove Timber Company boules to be kiln-dried, making them fit for Address: Cocking Sawmills,
As Sarah further explains, “it’s often this source interior joinery use as well as furniture making.” Cocking, West Sussex
of wood that finds its way to The Reserve – our The company also offers a bespoke sourcing GU29 0HS
stock of extraordinary waney-edge boards that and sawmilling service to makers wanting to Tel: 01730 816 941
are specially selected from the boule production season their own stock boules, or those with Web: www.englishwoodlandstimber.co.uk
of homegrown logs – which are sawn under a requirement in atypical dimensions. Using
LETTER OF THE MONTH I was given a subscription to your magazine as a birthday present from
my daughter and look forward to it falling on the doormat each month.
I read with interest Martyn Webber’s letter, which was featured in the
HOVE & SOME March 2022 issue. If I may, I’d like to point all woodworkers and others
with skills or not to the Men In Sheds group. I joined my group Ryburn
WOODWORK TOO Men In Sheds – www.facebook.com/ryburnmeninsheds – and was
nicely surprised to find a mixed group of people, both men and women,
Dear Tegan, of all ages (18-80) and abilities. Some just go to pass on what they know;
I was interested to read your Welcome piece in the March 2022 some go to learn new skills. There’s a wealth of knowledge out there just
edition of The Woodworker. In the early years of the new millennium, waiting to be tapped into. Dependent on the group you join, the equipment
my wife and I enjoyed some excellent short breaks at the Dudley Hotel they have will also vary – for example, ours now has three lathes as these
in Lansdowne Place. It was eventually sold and became The Lansdowne are so popular. Someone donated a second-hand machine and we also
Hotel, a boutique establishment with prices to match. The next time bought a brand-new one using grant money. There’s nothing better than
we were staying in Brighton and went along to Hove, we found the a bit of company while you’re doing any job. If you don’t know how to do
Dudley boarded up and looking very sad. I understand now that the things, then working out how can be a joint effort.
building has been refurbished to a high standard and renamed Dudley As an engineering patternmaker by trade, I get involved in passing
Mansions. Brunswick Terrace is just around the corner, as you well on skills, which is surely what your magazine is all about. In fact I’ve yet
know. The architectural features in your apartment are magnificent to make something for myself at the shed as I have my own equipment
and you’ll be sorry to leave them behind. at home; it’s the company I find so beneficial, as well as helping others.
Regards, Steve Pilling
Small garden table
I also want to tell you
about my lockdown
project. When we
moved into our current
house in 1987, our
next door neighbour
had a very rickety Peter’s lockdown
shed. I called it the project: a lovely
listed building. It wasn’t garden table
too long afterwards that
the shed finally gave up and
our neighbour moved his tools and
some wood into the garage. Much later,
perhaps 2010, he cleared it out and gave
me some wood that he’d bought at auction all those years ago
and never used, so I put it in my shed and there it stayed until 2019. A recent workshop weekend
Our small garden table needed replacing and I worked out that I could at Ryburn Men In Sheds group
use the wood given to me by the neighbour. There was just enough to
make a coffee table-sized piece for the garden. I used my thicknesser Dear Steve, thank you for your email.
to remove the sawmill marks, leaving as much wood as possible. I’m really pleased to hear that you like
Most pieces finished at 22mm-thick while the wood for the slats was the magazine and get so much enjoyment
12mm-thick. I then used my bandsaw to cut pieces to the correct width from it. Thank you for letting us know about
and a table-mounted router to machine the edges as at the time, I didn’t the group – it sounds like a wonderful idea
own a decent plane. The outer frame of the top is dowelled and the slats and also brilliant that it attracts males and
biscuit jointed. The side and end rails are also biscuit jointed to the top. females of all ages and abilities. As you say,
In order to make the legs 60 × 60mm, I laminated three pieces of wood it’s great to be able to support one another
together. The legs were then fixed to the rails using pocket-hole screws. and share your skills. I found a Facebook
Four coats of exterior varnish completed the job. I’m sure my neighbour page for the group as well as some
would be pleased to know that the wood he bought, probably 50 years information online. Many thanks again and
ago, has finally been put to good use. hopefully your letter will encourage others
Best regards, Peter Hall to get involved with similar groups up and
down the country. Best wishes, Tegan Woodturning is a popular activity
Hi Peter, thanks so much for your email. Gosh, it is a small world! Yes,
I know Dudley Mansions well and in fact, our flat is only a short distance
from there! Yes, the architectural features are beautiful and I certainly WRITE & WIN!
will miss them. We always love hearing about youyour projects, ideas, hints and tips, and/or
Thank you so much for sharing your lockdown project with us as like to receive feedbac
feedback about the magazine’s features, so
well. It really is a lovely table and who’d have guessed that the wood was do drop us a line – yyou never know, you might win our great
that old – it’s beautifully finished. I love the design and it looks extremely ‘Letter of the Mont
Month’ prize, currently the new Trend 14⁄ in
well-constructed and solid. I’m sure you’re looking forward to putting it 30-piece Router
Rou Cutter Set, worth over £100.
to good use this summer – I suppose you could always think about Simply
Simp email [email protected]
making matching chairs if you find yourself with some spare time… ! for
f a chance to get your hands on this
Many thanks again for taking the time to write in; it’s much appreciated. fantastic prize – good luck!
Best wishes, Tegan
OVERCOMING PROBLEMS
WITH CROSS-CUTTING
Hi Tegan,
Using my table saw for accurate cross-cutting, I find that I’m having a
problem with very thin offcuts. These will slip down in the gap between
When edging a board, Mike Riley holds the front of the plane body with his saw blade and throat plate, jam up, and block the dust extraction port
left hand, curling his fingers under the sole of the plane to act as a fence beneath the blade.
To overcome this, I’ve removed the throat plate and stuck a strip of
MAKING THINGS FOR YOURSELF duct tape down through its length on the underside. With a straightedge
and Stanley knife, I then split the duct tape for the length of the blade
Dear Tegan, and riving knife. This keeps all offcuts above the saw table and still
I very much enjoyed Mike Riley’s article on preparing wood by hand allows the blade to be canted for bevelled cuts. A cheap and efficient
methods, which was featured in the February 2022 issue. I too enjoy this answer to the problem.
stage of a project. It’s a remnant, if not a lifetime gift, from the teaching Andrew Goodfield
I received in the 1950s at the Cheltenham Grammar School. From age
11+ we had three hours per week for three years in the woodwork shops
of the school under one ‘Woody’ Wayne. He first taught us technical drawing
in first and third angle projection, then the fundamental ways of using
a jack plane, hand saw, square and straightedge to go through exactly
the steps related by Mike, including the thumb grip for edge planing.
When I returned to serious woodworking on retirement from a 45-
year engineering career some 20+ years ago, it all came back to me and
it became a great pleasure to prepare timber from local trees, plane-sawn Saw blade with gap between it and Duct tape applied to underside
in a local mill and air-dried for several seasons. It’s still the most satisfying the edge of the throat plate where of throat plate, along its length
stage of any project, though I do make use of a bandsaw for resawing and the offcuts easily drop down
a machine thicknesser to speed up the last stage of preparation. The latter
won’t remove wind and cupping in a board, so one still has to use planes Saw blade and riving knife
to get that vital first reference face by hand. protruding through duct tape
What a pity it is that today’s school pupils rarely experience this as a nice ‘snug’ fit. The thin
craft as a basis for many other hand skills that are so very useful offcuts now stay on the bed
in home-making and personal fulfilment later in their lives. of the saw rather than dropping
Many thanks to Mike for this trip down memory lane. Though below and causing a jam
I’m no longer able to do much woodwork, I still buy the magazines in the extraction ducting
and enjoy thinking about the processes and tips from experts, so I thank
The Woodworker and other woodworking magazines for their interesting
support of what I consider to be a vital life skill – making things for
yourself. With many thanks and best wishes for future issues. NEW FLEXIBLE CURVE ROUTING
Sincerely yours, Dave Williams GUIDE TEMPLATE ACCESSORY
An 8mm thick mini flexible curve used to make templates,
Hi Dave, thank you for getting in touch and sharing your experience of enabling a shape to be cut repeatedly with precision.
the topics covered by Mike in his recent article. It’s always good to hear p Used in conjunction with a self-guided
cutter, a router or router table.
from readers in terms of their stories on the same or similar subject we’ve p Alternatively a standard cutter can be
covered in the magazine. I’m glad the article helped to bring back some used when guided with a guide bush.
fond memories of your time in woodwork classes all those years ago, and p Includes fixing screws.
how wonderful that you can still call upon the knowledge learned back then. Product Ref. Length Price
I agree that things have certainly changed in terms of the curriculum and CURV/8X500 500mm £32.40 INC
VAT
it seems that hand skills have likely been replaced with either machines or CURV/8X1000 1000mm £62.40 INC
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computers. It’s therefore very important that we keep featuring these articles
in the hope that youngsters will have a go at and employ these tried and
www.trend-uk.com
tested methods, ensuring they don’t die out. [email protected]
Many thanks again for your kind comments regarding the magazine 01923 249911
and for taking the time to email in.
Best wishes, Tegan
Timber-framed garden room from WL West Traditional oak barn construction Cruck constructed granary barn
Top rail
This refers to the uppermost rail in, for example,
a door frame.
Traversing
This is using a hand plane across the surface
you’re working on at an angle of around 45°.
You might do this to remove goodly amounts
of waste, or simply to discover where the
peaks and troughs are.
Tread
We covered ‘risers’ earlier on; they’re the
front vertical part of a staircase. The tread
Tracheids in the structure of conifer wood is the horizontal top section, which could
be called the ‘going’. We tend, as lay people,
Tracheids & vessels to call the whole thing a tread, but should
These are the two main cell elements within probably refer to it a ‘step’.
softwoods; they serve as the conduits of water
and minerals that feed and allow the tree to grow. Treen
There’s some subtle differences between the two In those popular antique shows on TV we
but both cells are made up of thick, lignified wall hear a lot about ‘treen’. It’s a catchall phrase
material. The tracheid is the larger and contributes for anything made from wood that isn’t large
to the majority of the tree’s structural support. like tables and chairs and, possibly, no one
has the faintest idea what it’s used for!
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PROJECT Bird table
JAN’S
BIRD BUFFET
Having previously
made a few different
bird table designs, albeit
a little ‘rough and ready’,
Geoff Ryan’s next attempt
would prove to require
a little more thought,
precision and execution
uilding a bird table is, I’m sure,
2 The problem with making a trench cut on my 3 A simple solution was to turn the piece around 4 Both ends of each base component were
Bosch sliding saw is that it doesn’t slide far enough and trim it flat trimmed to make them more streamlined
back when cutting thicker timber. As a result, the
rear piece had a curve in the bottom of the cut
against the fence, but this way, the ends would the left-hand side, showing evidence of where I’d finished that I remembered I had some
barely be resting on the side extension supports. I slipped when trench cutting. This would be drill guides, which would certainly have
A simple solution was to turn it round and trim on the bottom, and therefore hidden from view. come in handy here!
it flat (photo 3). Alternatively, a few moments When buying stock from a timber merchant, The post is supported by four lengths
with a sharp chisel would also tidy it up. With you should never rely on the ends being square of 2×2in, which are screwed to both the
the saw set at 30° and a square piece of 34⁄ in and getting rid of any splits is advisable. With this base and post (photo 10). These were all
(20mm) plywood clamped to the table, both in mind, I cut both ends of the post square using 7in (180mm) on the longest face and mitred
ends of each base component were trimmed the mitre saw (photo 8) to give a final length of at 45°. The post is also fixed to the base by
to make them a little more streamlined (photo 51in (1,295mm), which meant that the finished means of a single vertical screw in the centre.
4). Some rounding over on the router table table height would be roughly 56in (1,422mm) To ensure the supports were all in correct
further improved the appearance (photo 5). once the base and top were later added. alignment on the post, I fixed each in place
Screws would be driven into end-grain using a right-angle jig to keep them level
Drilling, screwing & countersinking on both ends of the post, so pilot holes were with the bottom of the post (photo 11).
To join the two halves together, I drilled holes therefore required to prevent splitting (photo 9). I butted the post up to the jig and clamped
through the bottom section then countersunk To increase the likelihood of getting it straight, I it in place. Next, I carefully screwed the
them (photo 6). In order to hold the post on held the post vertically in a vice and used a spirit support in place, ensuring it wasn’t able
the base, I drilled a single hole and countersunk level as a straightedge guide, which allowed me to move. I marked each of the supports
as before (photo 7). Note the gouge mark on to line up the drill bit. It was only when to ensure all would be fixed back correctly.
5 Some rounding over on the router table improved 6 In order to join the two halves together,
the look even further I drilled holes through the bottom section then
countersunk them
7 In order to hold the post on the base, I drilled 8 As the ends of the 2×2in post weren’t square 9 Screws would be driven into end-grain on both
a single hole and countersunk this as before and needed trimming, I did this using a mitre saw ends of the post, so pilot holes were required
to prevent splitting
15 As the bottom corners of the sides were still square, I rounded these over using my 40-year-old Surform 16 Remaining offcuts from the sides were actually
more suitable as supports for the table top
17 I screwed the supports to the table using 20 Using a block plane, I flattened off the sharp
pocket-hole screws once more, fixing these point on the bottom edge
to the post with two screws on either side
goes on very easily but proves messy
middle of the post. when it comes to clean-up. Wearing gloves
When it came to fixing the roof panels onto for this step is advisable as well as using
the sides, I glued and screwed some beech strips an old foam brush, both of which are likely
– from the timber offcuts pile as before – onto to end up in the bin once you’ve finished!
the inside edges (photo 18), then pre-drilled The next step was to stretch the rubber
holes for the roof panels. 19 Obtaining the necessary 120° top angle for the over the ends, which would help to eliminate
ridge beam required two passes on the table saw any wrinkles, before clamping it in place and
Roof panels & covering leaving overnight (photo 24). I fixed the rubber
A ridge beam was required to support the roof a 2×2in piece of scant with the saw set at in place with staples followed by more beech
(photo 19), and in order to obtain the necessary 30°, which removed the top of the ‘T’ section strips (photo 25), then trimmed it to size with
120° top angle, I found I had to take two shown in photo 19. Next, I reset it to 90° and a sharp knife. The exposed inside faces of the
passes on the table saw. I started by cutting proceeded to make the second cut, which left roof were then treated to three coats of outdoor
me with a diamond-shaped piece. The bottom varnish. Meanwhile, I sanded the remaining
edge of the diamond was a sharp point (photo table components and supports before applying
20), so I flattened it off using a block plane – three coats of outdoor varnish as before,
I couldn’t have the birds banging their heads! lightly sanding between each (photo 26).
For the two roof panels – each 17.5in
(444mm) × 9.5in (241mm) – I cut the top edges Personal touches &
at 30° and glued and screwed these to the ridge design modifications
piece after carefully marking its position (photo In order to impart a personal touch, I used
21). Once complete, the roof panel was then ready my laser engraver to add some text to the
to receive its rubber covering (photo 22). The only completed project (photo 27). Once finished
reason I used this material was because I had and assembled, the bird table stands at 68in
some available – alternatively, roofing felt would (1,727mm) tall and the open sides allow larger
be suitable. Or, if using outdoor grade plywood, birds to gain entrance (photo 28). If you’d prefer
you could just paint it or add a coat of varnish. to restrict this so that only small garden birds
21 I cut the top edges of both roof panels at 30° Having marked the rubber roof covering with can use it, however, the roof can be made
and glued and screwed these to the ridge piece a white marker pen, I could then apply the lower, but in my experience, pigeons always
after carefully marking its position water-based glue (photo 23), which manage to find their way in regardless!
22 Once complete, the roof panel was then ready 23 Having marked the rubber roof covering 24 Once stretched over the ends, the rubber
to receive its rubber covering with white marker pen, I then applied the glue was clamped in place and left overnight
MARKING TOOLS
& TECHNIQUES FOR
FURNITURE MAKING
In the next part of this series, John Bullar explores the range
of marking tools available to the furniture maker, as well as the
techniques that can be used to ensure you get the most from them
out on the wood. Marking out is the first stage Rough outlines Even so, it’s convenient and useful
in furniture making and it’s also one of the In furniture making, we need different levels for quick marking out jobs.
most important. of marking out and the first is for roughly sawing Sharpening the pencil with a knife blade
the outline of components. When buying wood provides an opportunity to put a wide chisel-
Cutting lists from a supplier, it probably won’t be cut with any shaped tip on the graphite that, edge-on,
Any project requires a list of the pieces of great accuracy, and similarly, when we divide up produces a fine line which won’t wear down
wood it’ll use and their individual sizes, even large boards ourselves, it’s not possible to use too quickly. The old carpenter’s pencils were
if it’s just a shopping list to take down to the much precision at this stage. The solution is to
local timber merchant, and this is known as a make everything slightly oversize, which ensures
cutting list (photo 1). Furniture projects in books it can be trimmed to exact dimensions later.
and magazines often supply a cutting list while Marking must be clearly visible so makers often
people who design and make their own furniture use chalk, wax crayons or felt marker pens at
also need to produce one of these. the rough cutting stage (photo 3).
When it comes to making simple furniture, the
cutting list and dimensions on it can fully define Pencil lines
all the components. More complex projects are Pencils are versatile markers used for different
made up from components that require detailed types of marking, depending on their size, graphite
shaping, both before and sometimes after they’ve type and the way it’s sharpened. The conical tip
been assembled, so while the cutting list is still produced by a pencil sharpener will quickly wear
necessary, it does rely on support from down when run across a timber surface so that 4 A pencil line drawn against a try-square
dimensioned component sketches. the line becomes fatter and less precise. ready to cross-cut a straight end on the board
made flat specifically for this purpose (photo dimensions from one component to another
6). Propelling pencils provide a constant line using a marking knife (photo 8). This gives
width and can be useful on smooth, planed hair’s-breadth precision – something that
surfaces, but don’t try using them on un-planed can never be achieved by ruler measurement.
or coarse-grained timbers, as you’ll break It also avoids the cumulative errors (photo 9)
the graphite and possibly the mechanism. and straightforward mistakes that can easily
occur when measuring and writing down
Precision marking dimensions or filling your head with numbers.
Knives are undoubtedly the most precise
tools to use when it comes to marking out Story sticks
fine details. Marking knives are sold with one The ‘story stick’ is a simple aid, which consists
flat side, intended to be pressed against the of a strip of bare wood that helps make multiple
reference edge, while the other is bevelled. copies of parts using the direct marking technique.
Double-bevelled blades can be equally good Dimensions are marked on the edge of the wood
and more versatile if the knife is tilted to keep in the form of knife lines, each labelled in pen.
the bevel vertical while fine-bladed scalpels are With the story stick alongside the component
excellent for detailed work. The disadvantage and the knife sitting in one of its grooves,
of knife marks is that they’re harder to see the dimension is transferred directly to the
and can permanently scar the wood’s surface. component. One story stick can carry all the
Nonetheless, used appropriately along with marks required for making a piece of furniture.
pencils, the marking knife is indispensable for
any work that demands accuracy. Measuring instruments
Regardless of how experienced a furniture While I often mark out final fitting dimensions
maker is, the ambition of most is to continuously without any numbered measurements, it is of
7 A marking knife produces a much finer and improve or maintain the accuracy of their work. course essential to be able to mark out lengths,
more permanent line than a pencil One of the secrets to this is direct marking of widths and thicknesses to given dimensions
8 Loosely positioning components against one 9 For the greatest accuracy, a knife line marked 10 Marking directly against both sides of a
another gives a preview as to how they’ll go together directly against a component to show its position piece of wood, transfer its thickness accurately
and helps to understand how the joints will fit eliminates errors associated with measurements onto another piece before cutting a slot
11 Using a steel rule to divide a board into equal 12 A combination square has many uses; here it’s Transferring angles
widths. By slanting the rule, whole numbers can working as a depth gauge If you’re going to include angles other than
be used on any width of board, which makes the 90° in your furniture, you’ll need a protractor
division much easier and bevel gauge to transfer an angle from
one place to another.
with reasonable accuracy. A steel rule is Running a marking knife against the metal For the final stages of accurate fitting,
best for this, together with a tape measure blade while pressing the wooden stock against as with distances, the best precision comes
for roughly measuring long pieces (photo 11). the edge of the piece to be marked provides good when you don’t use numbered measurements
Don’t expect much accuracy from the tape accuracy (photo 14). If the line is to be continued at all, but rather use a knife to mark the angle
measure, however – they struggle to give around the wood, position the knife blade in the on one piece directly off another.
precision greater than about 1mm, which existing mark and slide the square up against
isn’t sufficient for fine furniture work. it (photo 15). This way you could almost work Design previews
blindfolded and still achieve great precision. Most people who start furniture making will
Right angles initially work from other people’s plans in books,
Straight lines and right-angled joints form Parallel markers magazines or online. The advantages are both
the majority of furniture, and they provide We often need to make a line parallel to an that someone else has worked out how to put
a good starting ground even if you plan to edge for marking the position of a joint or lining it together and that you can see photos of the
venture into more angled or curvy work. up different components. The tool for this job finished piece before you decide whether or
As well as accuracy in measurements, is a marking gauge, with a stock that can be run not to start making it.
we also need accuracy in angles, as errors along the edge and a stem passing through it. Working from detailed designs is an excellent
here can accumulate. For instance, if I made The stem has a marking pin sticking out near way to hone your making skills. Moving on from
a frame 91° instead of 90° on each corner, its end. Sometimes there’s a second marking pin, this, you may wish to adapt an existing design
then the last joint would be out by a whopping which can be slid along the stem independently, – i.e. customise it to fit a particular space or to
4°! It simply wouldn’t fit together and, if enabling it to mark both sides of a socket at once. hold a particular item. Ultimately, you may wish
forced, there’d be large gaps around the joint. The pins can be difficult to use and need to be to design furniture from scratch and create
Sometimes called a ‘carpenter’s square’, filed flat and sharp like little knife blades if the completely new ideas.
the try-square is an ‘L’ shaped tool for marking tool is to work without juddering. Being able You may already possess drawing skills,
lines at right angles to an edge (photo 13). to hold a marking gauge so that the line runs but otherwise practise with a pencil and ruler
14 Press the square’s stock firmly against the 15 To run a series of lines around a piece of wood, 16 Old-fashioned marking gauges with pins require
edge of the wood while marking against the blade place the marking knife in the end of one line and careful handling in order to produce clean lines. The
slide the square up against it before marking the double-pinned variety, known as a mortise gauge,
next one is used for marking positions and widths of sockets
18 Modern all-metal marking gauges have a 19 Working out how furniture will fit together and look begins with sketches, either hand-drawn
sharp-edged washer on the end, which makes or produced electronically
it easier to produce a clean line than with a pin
or sketching apps on a computer or tablet; out and used as a template for marking
this will enable you to visualise ideas and the wood.
explain them to others before buying and
cutting wood. Conclusions
Careful marking is the first stage of furniture
From plans to marking making, which provides a foundation for the
If you’re going to build furniture from a accuracy of construction. This precision is one
new design – either a modified version of the most important criteria that a piece of
of someone else’s or your own – you’ll first furniture will be judged on.
need to work out construction details and Accurate measurement tools have their place
dimensions (photo 22). Sketching them is but achieving tight alignment in the making and
fine but, especially if the design is complicated, assembly of parts is largely a matter of technique. 21 If the furniture is going to include unusual
nothing beats a full-sized drawing or ‘rod’ In many cases, the maker marks one component shapes, a small model such as this MDF
of the components. If a component outline directly off another without measurement to maquette helps everyone visualise the plan
is transferred onto card, it can also be cut ensure an exact match.
NEXT TIME
In the July issue, John looks at various
types of adhesive used by furniture makers,
depending on the project, as well as the best
ways to clamp components together while
20 Design details can be discussed with the client and other makers, then modified to suit all requirements the glue sets
before construction begins
Offers a completely flat bevel with the Sharpens materials such as HSS, carbide Always has a full-size diameter
MB-100 Multi Base and ceramics
For more information on the Diamond Grinding Wheel and its benefits visit www.tormek.com
FEATURE In profile: Carl Sadler
WOODLAND
SPIRIT
Trug maker, coppicer
and green woodsman
Carl Sadler is striving
to keep traditional
crafts alive
ander about the woods in
NAMING GAME
The name you most often hear in conjunction with trugs is that of Trugs – or trogs, depending on where you lived – weren’t
Thomas Smith, a craftsman from Herstmonceux in Sussex who lived exclusive to Sussex either, despite coming to be known as such
in the 19th century. He made trugs, and he made them well; so well through Thomas. They were actually made and used all over the
in fact that he displayed them at the Great Exhibition in 1851. The south of England. There were, however, regional variations; Carl uses
young Queen Victoria was impressed, and thinking they’d make good chestnut and white willow, but along the Welsh border some would
gifts for the royal family, she duly placed an order with Smith. After use hazel and ash, while others had woven bases, and in Devon they
making up the order, Thomas walked 60 miles from his workshop to were made with a solid base as opposed to the boat-like frame usually
deliver them in person, as he didn’t trust anyone else to do it safely. employed. The word ‘trug’ means boat, or boat-shaped, and the typical
The Royal Warrant given to Smith is the reason why you’ll often hear trug uses the same building principles as that of a clinker boat. In the
trugs referred to as ‘Sussex trugs’ or even ‘Royal Sussex trugs’. If you past, trugs were used for anything that required a receptacle and were
want to see Smith’s handiwork for yourself, some of these very pieces – and still are – made up to specific sizes so you’d know how much of
are on display at the V&A in London. a bushel each would hold. They could then be used as measures when
“But Thomas Smith didn’t invent the trug,” Carl is keen to stress, buying things sold by weight, such as grain. Today, however, they’re
“and this is a common misconception. In fact, the first written record mostly used as garden baskets, and as such, Carl sells many of the
of a trug was as early as the fourth century.” ones he makes to garden centres
Carl starts a trug build by cleaving the handle and frame from chestnut to produce wands between 32mm After being soaked, the wands are left to set
and 25mm thick around a jig for anything up to three weeks,
before they’re fixed together with copper nails
in Britain, is founded on the principle that attitude, Carl gets to reap the benefits. woodpeckers nested on the other side
certain native species of trees, such as As well as having a reliable source of timber, of the woodland.
chestnut, hazel and ash, re-grow rapidly he enjoys a never-ending supply of blackberries
from stumps, meaning they can be cut and mushrooms, and he can of course soak Making a trug
down regularly – about every 10-20 years. up what nature has to offer: “I can happily The natural lifestyle is alluring, but of most
If done properly, this process can actually spend half an hour just watching,” he reveals. interest is the wood being harvested by Carl
extend the life of a tree in the long-term “I wear green clothes and, apart from my in plentiful supply – and what he makes from
because although each new shoot begins chainsaw, I work quietly, so I see everything. it. That list is extensive, limited only by the
a fresh life cycle, the root system is already The wildlife comes to accept you in time.” commitment to traditional methods. There’s
established. It also lets more sunlight reach Carl has certainly developed a keener besom brooms, as mentioned, as well as gates,
the ground, allowing plant life to thrive, eye than most for what’s going on around hurdles, walking sticks and more. One item of
which helps prevent woods becoming ‘mono him. He remembers accompanying a group special note, however, and which also serves as
cultures’, devoid of variety. Instead, a diversity of degree students who’d come to study a staple of Carl’s output, is the trug. This small,
of flora and fauna are able to flourish where the wood and, struggling to find what they rectangular yet curved garden basket may strike
they may have struggled without intervention. needed, proposed pulling back the trees to as rather inconsequential, but it’s wrapped up
All in all, it’s a great way of getting raw materials attract woodpeckers. Carl’s advice was to, in a quaint history and tradition all of its own
from nature without causing any damage and “sit down and shut up,” pointing out that – see ‘Naming game’. Apart from that, it has
making sure that there’s some wood left for if they did so they’d then be able to see a personal resonance for Carl as trug making
future craftsmen. In return for this respectful a kestrel and two buzzards; besides, the actually runs in his family – his father and
grandfather were both trug makers. His
ancestors would most likely find the techniques
and tools he uses extremely familiar, especially
as among the latter we can count a 200-year-old
drawknife. “Not much has changed,” he agrees,
“I don’t use any big machinery.” He does use a
chainsaw, but out of the four or five professional
trug makers that remain, Carl’s willing to bet that
he’s the only one who cuts down his own trees.
To make a trug, Carl starts by cleaving the
handle and frame from chestnut to create
wands around 32mm wide × 1in thick. The
frame consists of a rectangular hoop with
curved corners; the handle, as shown in the
photos, is much the same. The wands are
shaped with a drawknife and steamed for
anything between 20-80 minutes, depending
on their thickness. Once suitably softened,
they’re bent round a jig to give the rectangular
hoop shape with curved corners, as evident in
both the frame and handle. The jig is essentially
a mould that ensures the trugs are of the correct
size and shape. “Wood has a memory,” Carl
The frame is then ready to accept the willow The first strip to go in serves as a sort of keel, explains. “Preferably, I’d leave the wood on
strips, which are laid on top of one another over which layers of green willow are built the jig for two or three weeks; two days is
to form the trug’s base the absolute minimum.”
With the frame and handle set in shape, would come to facilitate all the other crafts. “I always try to be fair. There are wages
they’re then fastened together with copper And the rest of the year is certainly not without of need and wages of greed,” he explains.
nails, used because Carl reckons they “go on its excitement – Carl also does a great deal Doing his bit, meanwhile, to keep trug
forever,” though finding good ones is becoming of work for film and television. In the past making and associated crafts alive, Carl
increasingly hard: “All the industries worked he’s made items for films including First Knight has gone back to teaching – in a manner
together in the past,” he explains, “but there’s – starring Sean Connery and Richard Gere – of speaking, that is. He runs courses all
no one left to make copper nails here – they and Henry VIII – starring Ray Winstone – as over the country and speaks at events
have to be imported instead. Now that boats well as the Midsomer Murders series. When prop with audiences varying from children and
use stainless steel, there’s no longer a call directors come to him, however, they often find beginners all the way up to experienced
for them.” that Carl knows more about what they need than craftspeople. Meanwhile, his son has shown
The boards for the base of the trug are they do: “When buyers ask for gates and hurdles, an interest in taking over when he finishes,
cleft from willow, the same variety used for I ask them where the film is supposed to be set,” and he’s also interested in finding an apprentice.
cricket bats. Shaped again with a drawknife, he explains. “They often get confused, and ask This way, even if Carl is one of the last of his
the willow is then soaked in hot water and why,” he chuckles. “I tell them it’s because all the kind, at least he’s passing on his experience:
clamped around rollers to provide the trug’s different counties had different styles of gates, “I don’t think it’ll die out,” he affirms. “When
characteristic curved shape. The first board unique to them.” Carl is careful to add that unless you lose a craft it’s gone forever; you can’t
to go in serves as a sort of keel. The inner – as did occur on one occasion – people ask him learn it from a book. You need a skilful person
and outer layers are then put into place and to make things overnight, he won’t charge more to show you a trade.” In this way, Carl hopes
copper nails hold the finished article together. just because he knows they have big budgets. his approach will continue to live on.
By this point, you’ll have gathered that the
timber used needs to be flexible, which is
why green wood is a perfect fit. This means
that when finished, water accounts for about
half of the trug’s weight, but due to the design
it won’t warp out of shape as it dries. Chestnut
has as much tannic acid as oak and with a
coating of linseed oil, a well-looked after trug
will provide years of faithful service – up to
100 in fact – according to Carl.
Holly-wood
Carl’s services to traditional crafts don’t end
with what he makes himself, however. Once
a year, he organises all the local craftspeople
for The Cotswold Show, which is held at
Circencester Park. “It gives the locals a chance
to see what’s going on,” he says, “and to talk to
the craftspeople, who’re happy to pass on their
knowledge.” Among these we can count a charcoal
burner, wheelwright, chairmaker, rope maker,
potter, blacksmith and a basket maker. All of the
different crafts are linked together as they once
were traditionally, with all centred around the
charcoal burner. The first burn is an important
part of the show as it symbolises the act that A show run by Carl gives locals a chance to talk to craftspeople and see what’s going on
OPEN &
HONEST
Brian Barber’s free
approach to design
exposes the simple beauty
of his ‘designer drawers’
’m a professional chemical
,,'
+,'
Evolutionary design
-.' -*+ (,. When I used to come across project
plans in the past, I’d usually modify
them to suit my own personal tastes,
then proceed to ignore size details and do
(-, my own thing. I’ve now given up on using
any plans at all. Instead, I’d like to introduce
you to my method of working, which begins
with a basic design concept and gradually
)/ evolves. Sketches on pieces of paper are
=ifekm`\n J`[\m`\n
+, +, +, all that’s required with additions for some
+,' +'' of the detail as work progresses.
It’s a tricky way of working – almost
Fig.1 Dimensions for designer drawers artistic, or at least that’s how I see it – since
things don’t always work out and modifications
the irons holding a really sharp edge for school years, but since my engineering may need to be made as you go along. It can
quite some time. My preference is still for career began, I’ve become really passionate also lead you into almost impossible situations
the traditional methods of woodworking, about it, to the extent that I’ve built my when the next step is difficult to see through;
you see, which I use throughout all of my own workshop as an extension to my I know this could be solved with plans, but I
projects when I can, and I firmly believe that house. I guess I’ve been at it for at least find it a fun way to work and since you’ve
power tools shouldn’t replace hand tools. 35 years now, so I’ve had plenty of practice. complete control over the project, you can
In my view, you should only use power Now, apart from my fondness for hand make it all come together in the end, if you
tools to save time and for jobs that you tools, it’s my approach to design that you persevere. Measurements also tend to be
can also confidently produce by hand. might find intriguing. You see, I’ve never arbitrary, a rough idea of overall size being
I was keen on woodwork during my really been happy using plans… all that’s required. You can then transfer
1 The joints for the frame and drawers were cut by hand 2 The frame has a simple, open construction. The elm blocks provided
some interesting detail
sizes from piece to piece. I’ll provide some Frame construction of corner posts and drawer runners
measurements here to give you an idea of The basic structure of the drawers comprises on the floor until I was happy with the
size, should anyone wish to make the same an open frame made up of four pieces of 45 appearance. I always use the rule ‘if it looks
piece, but this article is really about design × 45mm sycamore – the corner posts, held right then it is right’; this means that you have
as opposed to how to construct the joints together by the drawer runners on each side to be prepared for change and to start again
– I’m assuming these are straightforward with top and bottom rails on the front and when things don’t work out, but most of the
for the competent woodworker. back (Fig.2). Each of the drawer runners is time only minor modifications are needed.
So what about this particular project, then? equally spaced to give a nice side view of The top and bottom of each corner post
Well, it was made as a wedding gift for Ruth, the chest of drawers. I don’t think it’d have were capped with burr elm as a decorative
my eldest daughter. I had the idea of making worked if they’d been unequal as is the feature, which also hides the end-grain on
her something that’d be useful, and a functional case for the drawer fronts, which get top of each post. This took a little extra time
set of designer drawers seemed like a good move. progressively larger as they go downwards. but was really worth the effort. Each drawer
As usual, an organic approach was the order of I experimented with proportions for this runner was jointed into the corner posts and
the day. After a few preliminary sketches, I went piece quite heavily, with much laying out the top and bottom rails were jointed with
for a completely open structure with all joints
exposed and a floating top. With open sides and
back, construction was very simple, the chest
sides being formed by the sides of the drawers.
I had some good quality sycamore and burr elm
available so these seemed like a nice combination;
I elected to use the burr elm as decorative inlay
for the top and drawer fronts. The plans-free
approach and simple construction enabled me
to develop the design as the build progressed,
adjusting it as the project began to come to life.
Main attraction
The top was intended to be the focal point of
the piece and, as mentioned above, I decided
to set a central piece of burr elm in it. Rather
than inlay the elm, I used a solid piece, which
was initially joined to two pieces of sycamore
using biscuits. The edges were then planed
true and square, and two pieces of sycamore
were joined on each side to construct the top.
Again, deep chamfers were made to the edges
to match the drawers. The top was then with Osmo Polyx oil. This has the consistency preferred method followed by a very light
fastened to two runners located onto the of thin treacle, so a bit sticky, but is easily applied. sanding. I have little or no time for belt sanders
front top rails to create the appearance of a It’s best left to dry a day or so between coats to and even orbital versions can sometimes spoil
floating top. For this I used captive nuts buried give it a chance to harden off. I always use a rag a well-planed surface. This stuff does give
into the runners and a bolt through the top for applying any finish, which avoids unsightly a nice finish and allows the grain to show
front and back rails, with each runner previously brush marks and runs, though it can be a bit through. It’s very much like a traditional oil
screwed to the underside of the top – my only messy on the hands. If you must use a brush, finish, but with a little more body. Finally,
concession to using anything other than glue then ensure to wipe off with a rag afterwards. a wax finish was applied to give a nice sheen.
for jointing. Each of the runners has burr elm Three to four coats were applied with a light All in all, then, these ‘designer drawers’
on the ends to match the corner posts, which sanding in between each. The first coat tends were fairly simple to build and everything
also hides the end-grain. to sink deep into the grain but after that it comes went smoothly in terms of the making, apart
into its own. It’s really important to realise that from a few basic design changes along the
Bringing it to life a good finish depends entirely on the way the way. It’s a testament, you could say, to allowing
The completed chest of drawers was lightly piece is prepared prior to polishing. your imagination to exert itself over a project,
sanded using 320 grit abrasive and finished Hand finishing with a sharp plane is my instead of following a rigid set of plans.
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WORKSHOP
PEW
POWER
Do you remember a time when ecclesiastical
furniture was trendy? To the dismay of
some people, many churches were removing
creaky pews and replacing them with far more
comfortable, upholstered chairs. As a result,
it became fashionable to create a rustic feel
in your home by installing a pew or two. This One or two hefty screws had been used, but
entailed finding an appropriate seat, cutting the pieces came apart easily with little damage
it to size and plonking it in a suitable corner
of the kitchen or porch. Some were relegated from the timber, though I’ve since abandoned
to the garden where they soon deteriorated. that idea. A project of some sort awaits, though
Pews were popular, and although you could I still don’t know exactly what to do with them…
find them at reclamation yards and auction These days there’s plenty of church pews
houses, they tended to be pretty pricey. I for sale on eBay. Some look grand; others
remember visiting an architectural salvage need plenty of TLC. Many are quite basic and
yard near Bridgwater, Somerset, more than One of the pews I bought following my local perfect for recycling purposes, though if you’re
a decade ago, which seemed to be teeming church’s refurbishment programme looking for furniture with character there’s often
with them. The bottom had fallen out of the some lovely carved examples, too. If you’re after
market, so I was told, and as a result they With more than 150 years of regular use, high quality, knot-free timber – mostly pine
were unable to shift these substantial pieces the seats were well polished and had the – that’s guaranteed to be well seasoned,
of church furniture. odd dollop of hardened chewing gum stuck I’d suggest you could do a lot worse.
underneath. No graffiti or carved initials, though.
A few of the rear pews had doors on the ends,
presumably to cut down on draughts. Brass
name holders and hinged umbrella brackets
were other memorable features.
The first problem, however, was how to get
them home. Each pew was about 17ft – more
than 5m – in length, so even a long wheelbase
rental van wouldn’t suffice. A friend offered to
deliver them on his trailer if I sliced them in half.
Once sawn down to size, and still over 8ft long,
each pew was bulky, though luckily not too heavy.
There appeared to be little glue used With no obvious project in mind, storage was
in the pew’s construction the next problem, though they were easy enough
to stand on end and cover in polythene. With
Siberian pine my recent house and workshop moving saga,
When the pews were being removed from I needed to shift the pews yet again. This time
my local church – an elegant Victorian building I took them apart, labelling the ends for easy
– as part of a major refurbishment programme, rebuilding if necessary. There appeared to be
I took the plunge and bought a couple. With little glue used in their construction, the vertical
very few knots evident, this was perhaps end sections nailed to the seats and backs, plus
the cleanest run of antique timber I’ve come one or two hefty screws, but they came apart
across. Obviously softwood, referring to church easily with little damage. Originally I’d thought Brass name holders and hinged umbrella
records, it was identified as Siberian pine. about making some Shaker-style kitchen doors brackets were other memorable features
SPRING PROJECT:
DOOR REPLACEMENT Takes:
A couple of
A NEW DOOR weekends
Tools you’ll need:
FOR SPRING Drill, router,
hand tools
Although building an
external door from scratch
may be more rewarding,
if you’re working to a
budget, then a ready-
made joinery item may
be the better option,
says Phil Davy
Although building an external door from
scratch may be more rewarding, when you’re
working to a budget and time is of the essence,
it’s just not possible to compete with a ready-
made joinery item. In this case, I quickly needed
to replace an elderly kitchen door, which had
rotted along the bottom rail and stile. The
frame was also quite bad on one side, though
the lower jamb would have to wait for better
weather before it could be repaired.
The new door is made from meranti,
a relatively soft timber that’s often used for
exterior plywood. It’s fairly lightweight for a fore plane, though this depends on whether 1,000mm from the floor.
hardwood and can tear easily when planed. the jambs are parallel in the first place. My The stiles on the new door were wider
Interestingly, using the same supplier, the frame was out of square and the jambs slightly than the original –135mm instead of 90mm
same pattern door in softwood would’ve cost bowed, so getting the new door to fit was trial – and ideally, I should’ve fitted a deeper lock.
a fair bit more than the hardwood equivalent. and error, with a shorter jack plane a better As the previous sashlock was relatively new,
When hanging a door in an old frame, if you option here. Aim for a gap of about 2.5mm I decided to retain this even though it meant
intend on using existing recesses, it’s easier all around. the lever handle appearing offcentre. Perhaps
to start by fitting new hinges to the frame. not ideal, but it saved a few quid! Incidentally,
You could always glue fillets here, then recut Mortise sashlocks the distance from faceplate edge to spindle
them, but this would delay the job somewhat. Sashlocks are commonly available in two centre is called the backset.
You’d obviously need to wait for the glue to standard sizes: 64mm and 76mm. This is Due to the inclement weather, I painted
dry before planing the fillets flush, then re- overall casing width, so you’ll need to chop the the door before hanging it. If heavy rain is
chopping for new hinge positions. mortise a tad deeper. Start by removing most forecast, then it’s always wise to apply at
Always use decent quality butt hinges on of the waste with a flatbit or auger bit. To avoid least one coat of primer or exterior varnish
an exterior door. Due to the weight, it’s a good weakening the joint between middle rail and to any bare wood. Also, glazing beads and
idea to use washered hinges, and you can add a stile, try to position a lock above this. Ideally, rebates should always be primed prior to
third hinge if door and glass are particularly heavy. the handle should be between 950mm and installing any glass.
If screws aren’t supplied, don’t be tempted to use
those from the old door unless they’re as new –
it’s not worth the hassle with dodgy, worn slots.
3 Check the door frame for square. Measure and 4 Rout a suitable rebate along the door’s bottom 5 Mark both edges with a gauge and plane the door
trim to length, using a circular saw if it’s too much edge to clear the water bar in the frame’s threshold to width. Remove an equal amount from each side
to plane
6 Next, position the door in the frame and check it’s 7 Remove the beading strips. Paint all rebates and 8 If re-using existing hinge recesses, pare cleanly
not too tight. Aim for a 2.5mm gap along each edge rear edges of the beads with an oil-based primer with a chisel. Plug holes that don’t match new hinges
9 Screw new hinges to the jamb and re-position 10 Either use a router to cut the hinge recesses or 11 Position hinges and use a bradawl to mark the
the door. Mark their positions on the door and set chop them out with a wide chisel. Check recesses centres on each flap. Drill and screw both hinges
the gauge to flap width for depth to the door
12 Decide on lock height and check both handles. 13 Next, mark the lock position on the door 14 Bore overlapping holes to suit lock thickness
Try to avoid cutting into the middle rail joint edge, transferring spindle and keyhole heights along the edge of the door. Use a flatbit or auger
to both faces bit with masking tape
15 Remove waste from the mortise, with the 16 Check the lock is a snug fit in the mortise. 17 Carefully cut the lock recess, using either a small
blade just inside the gauged lines. Keep the chisel Carefully draw around the faceplate to give an router or chisel. Trim the ends square if necessary
square and vertical accurate line for the recess corner
18 Drill holes for the spindle and keyhole, working 19 Screw lever handles to the door. Mark the 20 Remove most of the waste with a drill and
from both sides of the door. Enlarge the keyhole striker box against the jamb, drawing around flatbit, tidying up the mortise with a chisel. You
with a coping saw it in the new position can then refit the striker box
22 Add putty around the inside of each rebate 23 Putty the back of each beading strip and push against the pane. Carefully pin the beads, pre-drilling
and press the glass into place the ends to prevent splits
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TRADITIONAL M2 gouges
• Ashley Iles HSS
gouges mounted in
Simon Hope handles
VS. CARBIDE
Andrew Hall conducts an experiment
in tools, timber and techniques
his was an exciting experiment With this article, my aim was to compare innovations, experimentation is required
OLS
CARBIDE TO tter tools
Ca rb id e fla t cu
• Crown Easy Wood Tools
• Various agle carbides
• Glenn Te rs carbides
• Woodpecke up myself us
ing
Others made sed from eBay
cutters purcha
best
however, the
In my opinion, d by far the most
performers an e tools are those
id
superior carb Cryogenic range
from Cr ow n’ s
CARBIDE TOOLS
Mega Mate by Jimmy Clewes
6mm Simon Hope Carbide Pro hollowing tool
Crown Carbide Pro with round cutter
CUPPED
CARBIDE TOOLS
• Mega Mate by
Jimmy Clewes
• Simon Hope
6mm Carbide Pro
hollowing tool
• Nr5 Hunter Tool
designed by
Jimmy Clewes
MATERIALS USED
Dry sycamore;
wet ash
LATHE
Powermatic 3520C
CHUCK
Record Power SC4
professional geared
scroll chuck
1 The ceramic plate – used for salads, stews and pasta dishes – which I’d go 2 Dry sycamore was used for the first plate. When producing videos such as
on to reproduce in wood form the one shown here, I’ve now started to spray dry wood with a grey primer
to aid visibility, as it allows cuts and tool angles to show up more effectively
3 Here I’m truing up the sycamore blank using 4 Cutting back the 100mm recess using a 10mm 5 Removing a ring of wood, which will be saved
1) a Record power M2 bowl gouge with swept- traditional-ground Crown Pro PM bowl gouge. for a future project – most likely a circular picture
back grind and 2) a Crown M42 parting tool I found that cutting from the middle outwards frame. It’ll be interesting to note the difference
was the best method for laying down fibres, in movement between the dry and wet materials
and therefore producing the best cut
6 Using a Crown M42 parting tool to remove the sycamore ring. I then 7 The tool produced a good finish on both surfaces, but the wet ash was much
swapped to the Crown M42 swept-back gouge to produce an ogee shape, easier to work; this was expected due to the material being drier and the fact
used in draw-cutting mode it was kiln-dried does make a difference. Using this tool, the edge also remained
sharper for longer, especially when used on wet material such as this
8 The project was completed over two days. To minimise movement, at the end 9 Starting with the dry sycamore, I trued up the surface using a Record Power
of the first day, I wrapped both plates in pallet wrap – to keep the moisture both M42 swept-back bowl gouge. These gouges are supplied with a traditional grind,
in and out. No matter how dry your workshop is, airborne moisture will always but if you’d like to see how I produce a swept-back grind, videos showing this
be present. Not only can this be lost, however, but also absorbed due to humidity technique can be viewed on both mine and Record Power’s YouTube channels
12 I separated the face of the plate into sections, with each 13 I carried out exactly the same process with the wet ash and the results
one labelled according to the tool used, so that a comparison were similar, except that the ash was much easier to cut compared to the dry
could be easily made. Both cut in a similar fashion, producing shavings; sycamore. Also, the finish achieved using the carbide tools was far superior on
however, the Jimmy Clewes tool is ground at a set angle whereas wet wood compared to dry. In terms of finish, using traditional tools, the result
the Simon Hope tool is best used at a 45° angle in raking mode was the same, as I’d achieved bevel contact and successfully laid down the fibres
14 I used a pair of figure-of-eight callipers to 15 Results were very similar on the wet ash... 16 ... but much different on wet sycamore
gauge the rim’s wall thickness. The most interesting
turning, however, occurred when using various
tools to remove the plate’s centre
17 An interesting point to note was that all of the carbide tools raised the 18 When used in pull-cutting mode, however, the Simon Hope carbide tool
grain of the dry sycamore during the turning process created the best finish in comparison to others used
19 The final cut was carried out using an Ashley Iles HSS traditional-ground 20 I noticed a little torn grain on the rim, so
bowl gouge with a short bevel, mounted in a Simon Hope handle. This one therefore produced a shear cut using a long
produced the best finish, requiring the least amount of sanding swept-back 10mm bowl gouge, which, incidentally,
is my favourite tool. Both the Crown M42 and
Record Power M2 produced lovely, fine gossamer
shavings, with the flute almost closed and
the back hand held down at around 60°
21 I sanded each of the plates using 120, 180 and 240 grit abrasives, with the CamVac extractor switched on, in addition to wearing an Elipse face mask
and wrap-around goggles
Conclusion avoid the process of learning how to use
Although this subject has already been traditional tools. They’re also great for turners
widely discussed on platforms such as Meet the with a range of challenging conditions, such
Woodturner – see www.patcarrollwoodturning. as poor grip, manual dexterity and arthritis.
com – and various Zoom forums, my belief And for those turners not wanting to sharpen
is that there is, always has been, and always tools or buy a grinding system, thanks to their
will be, a place for carbide tools. Such examples disposable carbide tips, these tools present a
are ideal for those turners wanting to carry great option. Having said that, Crown’s carbide
out some occasional turning, and can therefore cutters can be easily resharpened using a
diamond card.
As I’ve demonstrated here, I believe that
carbide tools do have their place, although
my personal preference would always be a
traditional tool as it produces a far superior
finish on a variety of materials. The same
result, however, can be achieved with carbide
tools, ensuring you begin with a coarse abrasive.
Regardless of the tools chosen, however, as
long as you use them in a safe manner and
have fun doing so, this can only be beneficial
in terms of one’s health and wellbeing.
I hope you have fun making shavings!
LOCK JIG
80mm
Auto-Locking
Top-Mount Plunge Lever
Precision Cyclone Extraction
80mm Centring System
80mm Plunge Depth
T12 T14
2300W 1/2” 2300W 1/2”
...JUST PLUNGE
ROUTER
WORKSHOP
ROUTER
GOT
BETTER WITH ROUTER TABLE
SAFETY SWITCH
www.trend-uk.com
String tidy TURNING
STRING
THEORY
Inspired by a piece of
Regency era wooden treen
with a pleasing squat mushroom
shape, Les Thorne decides
to turn something similar
in walnut and cherry, using
rare-earth magnets to secure
the string tidy’s lid in place
As a woodturner, I like looking at well-crafted furniture and
my favourite period is the Regency era with its fantastic lines,
great use of timber, both solid and veneer, and of course the
amazing craftsmen turners of the time. To that end, Mrs Thorne
and I do like to visit stately homes, and we recently spent a day
at Blenheim Palace near Woodstock in Oxfordshire. The day on
which we visited happened to coincide with one of their antique
fairs, and for sale were various items including many pieces
of wooden treen, one of which formed the inspiration for
this article.
I’ve seen string tidies before but this one was in the shape
of a squat mushroom, which I found particularly appealing,
so I transferred the shape to my memory bank – I thought
it’d be a bit cheeky to take a photo – and decided to recreate
it for you here. I have a feeling that the original was made from
apple wood as the lid had a coarse thread cut into it. I didn’t have
any timber large enough that was suitable for thread chasing,
as it needs to be a close-grained hardwood, so as an alternative
I used rare-earth magnets to secure the lid in place.
1 I never knew there were so many different 2 Cherry and walnut are a classic combination, 3 Mount the cherry blank on a screw chuck and
types of string available. I found this ball on and I happened to have these two blanks in the true up the outside using a 10mm bowl gouge.
eBay, then drew the project to match its size wood store awaiting a deserving project. The timber The bevel of the bowl gouge will be in contact
is dry, which is important when you’re fitting a lid with the wood, which affords you good control
onto something and a great finish
4 Next, true up the base using a pull cutting 5 When using the dovetail jaws on your chuck, 6 Once you’ve cut away the waste timber from
technique. As there’s no end-grain to cut on the it’s important to make sure that the spigot you the bottom, use a 10mm round skew chisel to form
base, it’s not so important for the bevel of the cut is accurate to the diameter. Here I’m using the dovetail. The angle needs to be approximately
tool to be rubbing a pair of dividers to mark the required size onto 15° to match the jaws. Never put too much angle
the base of the string tidy on as it weakens the spigot
7 Now that you’ve gripped onto the spigot you 8 I removed the heel from my 10mm bowl gouge 9 On a mini lathe, such as this Comet, you may find
can start to shape the lower half of the mushroom. to allow the tool to fit into the curve of the bowl; you need to remove the tailstock to provide better
The cherry I used was very dry, so a push cut was it also has the added bonus of decreasing the access to the inside of the bowl. When working on
best and would help to avoid too much tear-out amount of ‘bruising’ on the surface of the timber small machines such as these, always ensure you
on the end-grain as you make the cut can stand at the end
13 This close-up of the bowl interior shows the 14 You need to aim for an even wall thickness, 15 I found it difficult to turn the inside of this
gouge’s required position in order for it to achieve so achieving the correct depth is therefore important. shape using my normal gouge, so I decided to bring
the best cut. The flute of the tool is pointing away I use my shop-built depth gauge to measure the the 60° bowl gouge into play. This tool’s extremely
from me in the 2 o’clock position and the bevel is base thickness, which ensures I can maintain a upright bevel allows it to be easily controlled in
in contact with the wood consistent 8mm tight spaces
16 Due to the tool’s short bevel, in order to start 17 The Simon Hope pad is normally a little too 18 It fits in there an absolute treat! Because the
the cut, the handle needs to be in this position. big to fit into the curve, but the addition of this ball of string protrudes from the top, I needed to
With practice, you can undercut the bowl with soft interface pad allows it to conform to the hollow out the underside of the lid to allow for
a gouge, or if you’re struggling, you could take shape without leaving scratches on the surface this. Don’t remove the spigot until you’ve turned
light cuts with a scraper the lid, in case you need to make any adjustments
19 I didn’t want any large holes in the top of the 20 When attaching the blank with glue, my first 21 The measurement of the base needs to be
lid, so I attached it to a piece of scrap wood using few cuts are always a little tentative. This is the transferred to the lid. My turned boxes usually
hot glue. This is a brilliant way of quickly mounting bottom of the lid and I’m truing up the wood with have a suction fit but on side-grain like this, I like
wood on the lathe. For a piece of this size, five a bowl gouge, used in push cutting mode to make it bigger to allow for any movement that
or six large blobs should ensure a firm hold may occur
22 Use a gouge to remove the timber, working 23 The 10mm round skew chisel can be used 24 Keep stopping the lathe and checking the fit.
towards the line made by the dividers. Having to create the angled surface that’ll match the top As I said earlier, it needs to be a loose, but not
your thumb on the tool affords maximum control of the base section. Take light cuts to avoid tearing sloppy, fit. Once you’re happy, sand the inside
– you don’t want a dig-in at this stage out the grain. This can often occur if you’re heavy- to a fine finish
handed with the scraper
25 When I’m drilling on the lathe I like to make a 26 Once drilled, prise the lid off the glue chuck 27 I purchased these rare-earth magnets
centre mark with the point of the tool; this ensures using a chisel or screwdriver. The glue on this online and they measure 5 × 5mm in size but
the drill always starts dead centre. Ideally, you need piece was so strong that I ended up breaking are incredibly strong. Test drill a piece of scrap
to slow the lathe down to about 500rpm – here I’m the spigot away from the chuck to ensure they’ll be a tight fit into the wood
using a 4mm drill bit
31 Use tailstock support while carrying out the 32 To refine the curve on the lid, I swapped to 33 The hole in the top can be rounded over slightly
main shaping. I’m using a 10mm bowl gouge in the 13mm signature gouge. You can use a spindle so that you don’t experience any chafing of the string.
pull cutting mode. If the flute of the tool is around gouge on side-grain as long as the toolrest can Sand the top to a very fine finish and take care not
the 10 o’clock position, shavings should travel up be placed close to the work; this minimises the to leave any scratches on the surface, as these stick
your hand as shown here amount of vibration that could occur out like a sore thumb on walnut
34 Reverse the base onto the jam chuck to remove 35 As woodturners, we love to add decorative 36 The completed string tidy in cherry and
the spigot. Unlike the lid, I couldn’t get a tight fit lines to our work. Three grooves cut into the base walnut should look something like this
from friction alone so I wrapped some masking of the piece with the corner of a skew chisel finishes
tape around the chuck; this allowed me to remove it off nicely. One coat of lacquer and you’re then
the final piece of unwanted wood ready to add the string
CARVING
The ornamentation of wooden objects, which
developed into ornamental carving, goes back to
pre-history with the oldest known wooden sculpture
being twice as old as Stonehenge. In the first of a
new series, Iain Whittington tells us more in this
fascinating introduction to decorative woodcarving
2 The Lewis – or Uig – chessmen, named after the island or bay where they were found, are a group
of distinctive 12th-century chess pieces, along with other game pieces, mostly carved from walrus ivory
Photograph © British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0
ooden objects don’t survive grave goods from the likes of the Oseberg low relief, was multi-faceted, giving
Preserving tradition
In nations with a preserved tradition, there
remains a public disposition to pay a fair,
commercial rate for traditional products.
This has in turn supported a market environment
where decorative carving can continue to flourish.
Unfortunately, this tradition doesn’t pertain to
the United Kingdom or North America where
‘market forces’ have nearly driven decorative
carving to extinction in both education and retail.
Along with the loss of work to mechanisation
went the decline in the master’s profit, which
was needed to fund the training of apprentices
and their employment as journeymen. As a
result, so began the inevitable vicious circle,
which has led to the decline in traditional
skills, that continues to this day.
9 Another useful tool that’s occasionally 10 Carved wood spirit 11 Norwegian-style cheeseboard
indispensable is a small drawknife
This article has been compiled from original carving and decorative carving. Amateur
information given in Iain’s book. Here, you’ll Woodcarving was published with the support
also find detailed instructions on the use of of GMC Publications, with all proceeds going
a computer and ‘Freeware’ for the preparation to SSAFA, ‘The Armed Forces Charity’. Available
and manipulation of plans for kolrosing, chip in most book shops or via www.amazon.co.uk
WELL-PLANTED
Peter Dunsmore’s ornamental wishing well garden planter
uses standard size timber and a few basic woodworking tools
O FUNDAMENTALS: SETTING
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BOOK YOUR FREE AD Please publish this advertisement in the next available edition of The Woodworker. I am a private advertiser and have no trade connections
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5
From an exquisite veneered bar and wine cabinet with
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useful for mouldings, chamfers and template work. of cut.
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To view the whole Axcaliber range, visit one of our stores, search
axminstertools.com or call 03332 406406.
For the complete Axminster Tools experience and to keep up with projects, how to’s, news
and much more, browse knowledge.axminstertools.com and follow us on social media.
Prices are inclusive of VAT and may be subject to change without notice.
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