IMPORTANT TOPICS OF PATTERN MAKING:

UNIT-I:
Definition of Body Measurements, methods of taking Body Measurements, tools of Body
Measurements, precautions to be taken while taking Body Measurements, system of recording
data of Body Measurements, importance of Body Measurements in Pattern Making

Definition of Body Measurements

Body Measurements deals with the measurement

of body parts. It involves measuring the body
width, length and girth (Circumference) and it’s
parts in specific areas on the body.

What are Body Measurements?

Body measurements refer to measuring the actual

person (or people) who will wear a garment.

These are different from garment measurements

and can be taken manually or purchased from
different body data services.

Many body measurements are important to

building a balanced, well-fitting garment.

Some of these measurements are more important

- we’ll call them “Key” or “Primary” measurements,
while others - called “secondary” measurements,
are still a factor in pattern creation, but are less
essential to the fit of the garment.

Importance of Body Measurements in Pattern Making

Accurate body measurements are very important

for obtaining best result in pattern drafting. Hence
body measurements should be taken with great
care.

Accurate body measurements of customers are

vital for the tailor. The fabric material for tailoring
doesn’t come free of cost. Each and every suit or
dress requires some amount of fabric material
in garment construction.

Without taking body measurements, the fabric

material can run out of supply if the tailor uses it
too much. And more material is required to fix
small dresses or suits. So when body
measurements are taken accurately, the tailor will
know the exact amount of material to be used.
Sometimes they can even save the unused
material for the next task.

It is very necessary to take body measurements

required for pattern drafting or for garment
making for the following reasons:
i. Accurate body measurements is very important
in drafting of pattern if the pattern will fit the
individual for whom the pattern is drafted.

ii. Accurate body measurements helps to produce

garments that are fitted to the body because the
way the measurement is taken will determine
whether the garment will be tight fitted, semi fitted
or oversize/loose fitted.

iii. It helps in reducing fabric or paper waste,

especially when body measurements are taken
accurately.

iv. Accurate body measurement prevents waste of

time and energy that would have been used in
pattern alteration and in altering or adjusting
garment.
Hence, the importance of Body measurements are:
 Ensures proper fitting of the garment.
 Enhances the personality of the wearer.
 Makes one feel comfortable.
 Resource efficient – saves time, energy and material.
What are the tools of Body Measurements?

 Measuring Tape

 Pencil and eraser, sharpner

 paper

 Mirror

 Elastic tape or cord

What are the methods of Body Measurements?

Standard Measurements

• Used in Ready Made Garment Industry

• Based on derived measurements using statistical tool.

Direct Measurements

• Used for custom made garments

• Based on actual body measurements of the wearer.

Body Landmarks
Body Landmarks are the key reference points, which are used to
measure to and from.

• There are two types of body landmarks,

i. Actual points on the body

ii. Horizontal circumferences around the body.

• Both are used when measuring body dimensions.

TYPES OF BODY MEASUREMENTS

LENGTH

• Shoulder to bust

• Shoulder to waist

• Garment length

• Sleeve length

• Crotch length

GIRTH

• Round neck

• Round chest

• Round waist

• Round hip

• Knee

• Calf

• Ankle

• Upper round arm

• Wrist

WIDTH

• Across shoulders
• Across chest

STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENT CHARTS

• Used for making garments in a ready made garment industry.

• Different countries have different size charts depending on their

population characteristics.

MEASUREMENT RECORD CHART

Name …………………...- Date…………………

Body Part Measurements (Inches)
Round neck --------

Round bust --------

Round waist --------

Round Hip -------

Upper round arm -------

Round elbow -------

Round wrist --------

Round Knee ---------

Round Calf ---------

Round ankle ---------

Across shoulder ---------

Bust span ---------

HSP to Bust ---------

HSP to waist ---------

Garment length ----------

Sleeve length ----------

Skirt length ----------

Trouser length ----------

Crotch length -----------

How to Take Body Measurements?
Even if you are purchasing existing body data in order
to create your patterns, you’ll likely still be fitting on fit
models, so it’s important to know how to manually take
 measurements. To start with, you’ll need to make sure
you have the right tools.

 Flexible measuring tape (the longer the better -

especially if working in tall or plus sizes).
 A second flexible measuring tape with hook and
eyes or snaps or a string or ribbon to mark the natural
waist.
 A digital or physical copy of a measurement sheet
like this one to track note the measurements.
A measurement sheet and a flexible measuring tape
You’ll also want to make sure that the person you’re
measuring is either wearing well fitting undergarments,
or for the comfort of the wearer, they can wear a light,
non-compressive pair of leggings and a light, non-
compressive tank top. If you’re measuring for a custom
garment for a special occasion (such as a formal gown,
wedding dress, tux, etc.) you will want to ensure your
model is wearing the same shoes and undergarments
they will be wearing with the garment as these things
can affect the fit.

You want your model to stand up straight, with

shoulders and hips parallel with the ground and feet
about shoulder width apart. For circumference
measurements, you’ll want the pull the measuring tape
snug, so there is no slack, but not so tight that it distorts
the body measurement by pushing or reshaping tissue.
What are the Most Important Measurements for
Pattern Making?
Our key measurements are different depending on the
type of garment you’re planning to make. Before we
can talk about them, let’s get some common acronyms
out of the way.

CB - Center Back: refers to the center back of a

garment or body, along the spine.
CF - Center Front: refers to the center front of a
garment or body from the hollow at the bottom of the
neck straight down.
HPS - High Point Shoulder: refers to the top point of
the shoulder on either side of the neck.
 Let’s go through and define the key measurements
and how they relate to pattern making for specific
garment types. Later on, we’ll discuss how to take each
of these measurements on the body.

Tops and Dresses

 Full Bust/Chest
 Full Hip
 Across Shoulder
 HPS to Apex
 CB Neck to Waist
 CF Neck to Waist
 Waist to Hip Length
 Additional measurements for dresses only:
 CB neck to floor
 CF neck to floor

Bottoms
 Full Hip
 High Hip
 Waist
 Total Rise
 Thigh
 Inseam

One-Piece Swimsuits, Rompers, and Other One

Piece Garments
 Full Bust/Chest
 Full Hip
 Across Shoulder
 HPS to Apex
 CB Neck to Waist
 CF Neck to Waist
 Waist to Hip Length
 Vertical Trunk
Now that we know what key measurements we need for
each product type, let’s go over how to take each of
these measurements.

How to take key Body Measurements?

Full Bust/Chest - this is measured at the fullest point of

the bust/chest (typically along the apex) around the full
circumference of the body, parallel to the floor.
Full Hip - this is measured at the fullest point of the hip
(typically at the lower ⅓ of the buttocks), parallel to the
floor.
Across Shoulder - measured from shoulder socket to
shoulder socket. Sometimes it can be helpful to have the
model raise and then lower their arms so you can feel
the socket joint.
HPS to Apex - measured from HPS to apex point.
CB Neck to Waist - measured vertically from the C7
vertebrae to the natural waist along the spine.

CF Neck to Waist - measured vertically from the base

of the neck to natural waist along the center front of the
body.
Waist to Hip length - measured along the natural side of
the body from natural waist to full hip level.

High Hip - circumference of the body measured at the

hip bones.

Waist - circumference measured at natural waist. It can

be helpful to have the model bend to the side to mark
where they bend, this is natural waist.
Total Rise - wrap the second measuring tape or ribbon
around the model at natural waist to mark it. Measure
from the CF waist point, through the legs, and up to the
CB waist point.

Vertical Trunk - measured from HPS, along the front of

the body, around the crotch, and up the back of the
body back to HPS.
Thigh - measured around the fullest part of the thigh.
Typically 1-2” below the hip joint.

Inseam - measured from the crotch to the floor along

the inner leg.
 What are Secondary Body Measurements?
Secondary body measurements are still important to
pattern making and even more important to grading
your pattern later on, so it’s important to be familiar
with them. Just like with the Key measurements, they
vary depending on the type of garment you want to
make a pattern for. The reason for this is that you
wouldn’t necessarily need to take a bust cup
measurement if you’re making pants, but you’d
certainly need to make a bra.

Tops and Dresses

 Underbust
 Waist
 Neck Base
 Across Back
 Across Front
 Shoulder Length
 Arm Length from CB Neck to Wrist
 Arm Length from Shoulder Point to Wrist
 Bicep Circumference
 Elbow Circumference
 Forearm Circumference
 Wrist Circumference
Bras or Swim Tops
 Front Bust
 Apex to Apex
 Cup width
 Cup Depth
 Apex to Underbust
 Underbust
Bottoms
 Knee Circumference
 Calf Circumference
 Ankle Circumference
 Inseam
 Outseam

How to take Secondary Body Measurements.

Underbust - full circumference measured around the rib
cage just under the breast fold.

Apex to Apex - measured from apex point to apex point

with measuring tape parallel to the floor.
Front Bust - measured from the natural side of the body,
around the apex points to the other side of the body.

Apex to Underbust - measured from apex point to the

breast fold.
Cup width - measured from outside of the breast to
inside of the breast along apex.

Cup Depth - measured from the top of the breast to the

breast fold, along apex.

Neck Base - circumference of neck measured along the

lower part of the neck.
Shoulder Length - measure from HPS to shoulder
socket.

Arm Length from CB Neck to Wrist - measured from

CB neck (C7 vertebrae) around shoulder, down outer
edge of arm, to wrist. The arms should be slightly bent.

Arm Length from Shoulder Point to Wrist - measured

from shoulder socket, down outer edge of arm, to wrist.
The arms should be slightly bent.
Bicep Circumference - measured at the fullest part of
the bicep.

Elbow Circumference - measured at the elbow point.

Forearm Circumference - measured at the fullest part of

the forearm.

Wrist Circumference - measured at the bony wrist

protrusion.
Knee Circumference - measured around the knee cap.

Calf Circumference - measured at the fullest  part of the

calf.

Ankle Circumference - measured at the bony protrusion

at the ankle.

Outseam - measured from natural waist to floor at side

of body.
Precautions to be taken while taking Body Measurements?

 The inch-tape should not be bent, torn or curled at any place.

• Ensure that the marking on the tape is not erased anywhere.

• Use the ½” strip end to measure widths and circumferences and
the 3" strip side for lengths.

• Record measurements either in ‘inches’ or in ‘centimeters’

 The person should wear close fitting garments, as loose fitting

garments will not help you identify body landmarks and would
lead to incorrect measurements.

 Take all measurements closely but not too tight.

 All girth measurements should be taken with finger ease

between the tape and the body.

 The person should stand straight with the feet placed together;
wrong posture can give incorrect measurements.

 Stand to the right hand side of the person being measured this
will help to detect any folds in the measuring tape, besides it is
also convenient.

 Also ensure that while taking vertical measurements the tape

is perpendicular to the floor

 Use a good quality tape which should neither stretch nor be

stiff.

 Do not let the person look down at the measurements being

taken.

 Do not add any ease to the measurements taken. Ease can be

added while drafting patterns.

 Take measurements systematically and sequentially

Standard Body Measurements/Sizing

To ensure that a finished garment will fit properly, it is

important to take the following body measurements, so that
you can determine what size you should make.
It is always better to have someone else do the measuring. If
that is not an option, you can measure a garment that fits you
the way you want, and use these measurements as a guide.
Most pattern instructions will provide general sizing
information, such as the chest or bust measurements of a
completed garment.
Many patterns also include detailed schematics or line
drawings. These drawings show specific garment
measurements(bust/chest, neckline, back, waist, sleeve length,
etc.) in all the different pattern sizes.
To insure proper fit, always review all of the sizing
information provided in a pattern before you begin.
Following are several sizing charts.
These charts show Chest, Center Back Neck-to-Cuff, Back
Waist Length, Cross Back, Sleeve Length, Upper Arm,
Armhole Depth, Waist and Hip.

THESE ARE ACTUAL BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR

BABIES, CHILDREN, WOMEN, and MEN in both inches
and centimeters.
When sizing sweaters, the fit is based on actual chest/bust
measurements, plus ease (additional inches or centimeters),
sometimes referred to as "negative ease" (less than the actual
bust/chest measurement) or "positive ease" (more than the
actual bust/chest measurement).
The chart entitled “Bust/Chest Fit and Ease Chart” recommends the amount of ease to add or
subtract to bust/chest measurements if you prefer a close-fitting garment, an oversized
garment, or something in-between.

Bust/Chest Fit and Ease Chart

Very close Very tight fit, smaller than

fitting, your actual bust/chest
negative measurement.
ease: Approximately 2" to 4” (5
to 10cm) less than your
actual bust/chest
measurement

Close fitting, Body skimming, your

zero ease: actual bust/chest
measurement.

Classic fit, Comfortable fit slightly

some larger than actual
positive bust/chest measurement.
ease: Approximately 2" to 4” (5
to 10cm) more than your
actual bust/chest
measurement

Loose fit, Slightly oversized fit,

Bust/Chest Fit and Ease Chart

more larger than your actual

positive bust/chest measurement.
ease: Approximately 4" to 6”
(10 to 15cm) more than
your actual bust/chest
measurement

Oversized, Very loose fit, much larger

generous than your actual
positive bust/chest measurement.
ease: Approximately 6+”
(15+cm) more than your
actual bust/chest
measurement

The Length Chart provides average

lengths for children’s, women’s and
men’s garments.

Both the FIT and LENGTH charts are simply guidelines. For individual body differences,
changes can be made in body and sleeve lengths when appropriate. However, consideration
must be given to the project pattern. Certain sizing changes may alter the appearance of a
garment.
Length Chart

Back Waist Length Hip Length Tunic Length

Child Actual body measurement 2"/5cm down from waist 6"/15cm down fro

Woman Actual body measurement 6"/15cm down from waist 11"/28cm down fr

Men Men’s length usually varies only 1–2"/2.5–5cm from the actual “back hip length” measurement
 International Conversion Chart for
Children’s Clothing

US UK Europe Australia

12-18 m 12 m 80 cm

18-24 m 18 m 80-86 cm 18 m

23/24 m 24 m 86-92 cm 2

2T 2-3 92-98 cm 3

4T 3-4 98-104 cm 4

5 4-5 104-110 cm 5

6 5-6 110-116 cm 6

6X-7 6-7 116-122 cm 7

7 to 8 7-8 122-128 cm 8
 US UK Europe Australia

9 to 10 8-9 128-134 cm 9

10 9-10 134-140 cm 10

11 10-11 140-146 cm 11

14 11-12 146-152 cm 12

Conversion Tip’s:

The American, British and Australian sizes are based on the age of the

child, while in Europe the size is based on the child’s height in centimeters.
Some US sizes include a “T”, which stands for toddler.

Conversion Chart for Women’s

Dresses, Jackets, Coats, Blouses & more

US UK Europe Australia China Japan

6 5 38 5 39 23.5

7 6 39 6 41 24.5
US UK Europe Australia China Japan

7.5 6.5 40 6.5 – 25

8 7 41 7 42 25.5

8.5 7.5 42 7.5 43 26

9 8 43 8 43.5 27

10.5 9.5 44 9.5 44.5 28

11.5 10.5 45 10.5 46 29

12 11 46 11 47 30

13 12 47 12 48 31

14 13 48 13 49 32

Conversion Tip’s:
 ‍Use the below table to find the corresponding size across different
countries and size systems. Please note that the British size system is also
used in New Zealand as well as in Australia. French sizes are also used in
countries such as Belgium, Spain and Portugal.  German sizes are used in
Austria, Netherlands, Norway, Denmark, Sweden and Switzerland.

International Conversion Chart for

Men’s
Suite Jackets, Blazers & Coats

US UK Europe Russia Japan Korea S-M-L

30 30 40 40 32 80 XXS

32 32 42 42 34 85 XS

34 34 44 44 36 90 S

36 36 46 46 38 95 S

38 38 48 48 40 100 M
US UK Europe Russia Japan Korea S-M-L

40 40 50 50 42 105 M

42 42 52 52 44 110 L

44 44 54 54 46 115 L

46 46 56 56 48 120 XL

48 48 58 58 50 125 XXL

50 50 60 60 52 130 XXXL

Conversion Tip’s:

Convert between American and European sizing system for pants and or

trousers. Note European size system includes French, German, Italian,
Spanish, Swedish, Dutch and Portuguese clothing.

The size charts are just charts showing average values

that correspond to sizes of ready-made clothes.