Wolf Plush: A Free Sewing Pattern by
Wolf Plush: A Free Sewing Pattern by
WOLF PLUSH
This sweet handheld plush is made to look like a cuddly
wolf! It has an adorable belly-down laying pose that
skills used:
makes it fun to cuddle or sit beside you. To give it extra • Fusible web applique
wolf-life features, it has angry eyes, big ears, a scruffy • Curved sewing
head shape, and a mischievous grin. Though you could • Basting
use the same base to easily make a husky or fox as well. • Darts
• Ladder stitch
difficulty: • Sewing small pieces
• Matching notches and points
The most difficult part of this plush is likely in sewing the makes:
forehead. The curves are rather tight, so be sure to line up
your pieces with lots of pins and sew slowly. One plush: about 10" long from
nose to back feet, 5" wide from
Also, the head, tail, and back feet are sewn on by hand. So each side of legs, and 4" tall from
give yourself time for that. belly to top of head
handheld
size head, tail, & back
feet are attached
by hand
suggested fabrics:
faux fur
minky or fleece
Medium weight, plush fabrics with about 20%-30%
minky stretch along the crosswise grain work best for this
project. The varieties shown to the left are some
good options and names to look for. Try to avoid
cuddle fleece heavyweight versions of fleece that are intended for
outdoor apparel or they may cause trouble for the
detailed areas.
You can also use non-stretch fabrics (such as felt),
micro fleece but be aware that the curves will be more difficult
to sew and the result will look different. The plush
will become more elongated and the edges will look
anti-pill fleece harder.
10" of minky
stretches to 13"
= 30% stretch
fleece
3 4 5
It’s likely your printer will have To line up the pattern pages, You can trace the patterns onto
a margin that ensures your match up the corresponding a different paper, or you can
image doesn’t print to the very diamond shapes. Each diamond also just cut them straight from
edge. Assembly will be easier if will have a letter, so it’s simply the printer paper -- be sure
you trim off this blank margin a matter of matching A1 to A2, that each piece is fully taped
edge. This will give you pages B3 to B4 and so on. The faint together along the joins so they
that overlap slightly during gray lines indicate the border of don’t fall apart when you cut
assembly. If you trim across the every page, you should be able them.
gray outline boxes, this will give to line those up as well. When
you pages that don’t overlap the diamond goes together,
but rather butt against each tape it in place.
other.
If you have many pages, it’s
easier to tape up the pages into
rows first. Then tape the rows
together into a full block.
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
STRE TCH
darker fabric
¼ yd.; 9” long
E E J J
F F
NAP
B B D D
25" wide
STRE TCH
lighter fabric
¼ yd.; 9” long
I I D
A A
H D
NAP
I I
C G
G
21" wide
trace onto
paper side eye: black
iris: accent
eye shines:
white
a.
1. prepare the face applique b.
a. Grab your fusible web and trace all the applique pieces you want onto the smooth (paper) side. You
should have at least 2 eyes, 2 sets of iris pieces, 2 eye shines, and a muzzle. You may also want a
tooth and paw pads.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side onto the wrong side of your applique fabrics. The eyes and muzzle
should be fused to black, the irises to an accent color, and the eye shines (and tooth) to white. If you
have paw pads, those will be on pink, brown, or black. Cut out the applique pieces.
add
remaining
fuse the small
eyes first pieces
c. d. e.
c. Grab your head front (A) piece. Set your paper pattern on top of the fabric piece (right sides up).
Align the eye piece on top where the placement markings are. Then carefully slide the paper pattern
away while holding the applique piece in place.
d. Fuse the eye in place with your iron. Use a press cloth if you're using a polyester or fuzzy fabric like
minky. A scrap piece of cotton works as a press cloth, and will help prevent the fabric from melting.
e. Next, move onto the smaller pieces: the irises and eye shines. Fuse them the same way as you did
the eye, using the paper pattern and photos as a guide.
add paw
pads to belly
add paw pads
to 2 feet
a. b. c. c.
2. applique the other body pieces
a. Take this time to also applique your other body pieces using the same method. The muzzle (C) will
need the nose and mouth applique and the optional tooth.
b. For the whole face you'll need the muzzle and both head front (A) pieces with applique.
c. Meanwhile the belly (H) and two of the feet (I) get paw pad applique.
If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you can sew
them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.
4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
c. d.
1
1 1
1
2
2 2
bottom dart:
sew up to fold
5. sew the top & bottom darts
a. Open up your head front (A) and muzzle (C) pieces and this
should complete the face.
b. Next, we're going to sew the top and bottom darts on the head. The
darts:
A wedge-shaped gap found
bottom one is on the muzzle, and it's the large V-shaped wedge in in a pattern. When sewn
the bottom. Start by folding the entire head in half so the each side in fabric, it creates a tuck
of the wedge matches up. in the fabric and develops
c. To sew the bottom dart, start at the opening and work towards the a 3D shape. The diagonal
sides of the wedge are the
fold of the fabric. Try to blend your stitching into the fold so the legs; these are matched up
plush has a rounder finish. and sewn to the point of
For the top dart, line up the center edges along the forehead and the dart.
above the nose. Try to line up the forehead seam if you can as well.
Start sewing at the top corner and work downward. At the corner,
pivot, then sew along the top of the nose. Then curve downward into the fold of the fabric to finish.
leave open
for turning
fold with
inner ear
fabrics facing
baste
along edge
basting:
or similar turning tool.
b. Fold the ears in half along the fold line so the inner ear fabrics are A form of temporary sewing
facing. meant to hold pieces in
c. Baste along the raw edge of the ear to hold the fold in place for place. A long stitch length is
future steps. Repeat for your other ear so you have a mirrored pair. often used for this reason.
The finished result is not
meant to be seen and
sometimes is even removed
later (depending on your
project).
leave
open for
turning
c. d.
fold along
point of dart
blend
stitching repeat for
into fold both body
a. The body back also has a dart similar to the muzzle from before. Sew it the same way, starting by
folding the fabric along the point of the dart so the slanted edges match up.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric.
c. Repeat with the other body piece so you have a mirrored pair.
line up belly
with back
sew
around
entire
shape
clip seam
allowance
at curves
18. sew the body to the belly
a. Grab your belly (H) as well as your body back so far (F/G). Align the pieces with right sides facing
and the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together all around the shape. Be sure to go slowly around the curves, especially
between the front legs since that curve is especially tight.
c. Once complete, clip the seam allowances at any inner curves between the legs to help increase
flexibility when the piece is turned next.
a. b. c. d.
19. stuff the body
a. Turn the body right side out through the c. When stuffing the back, also be sure to get
opening in the neck. plenty in the dart area so it looks full and there
are no wrinkles in the fabric.
b. Begin stuffing it first by starting with the front
and back legs. Be sure to get plenty in the tips d. Lastly fill up the rest of the body, working up
so they look good and firm. through the neck.
trim seam
allowance at
leave open corners
for turning
stuff tail
semi-firmly
sew gathering
stitch around tail gathering:
The process of shortening the
length of a piece of fabric by
sewing long stitches through
it. When the thread is pulled,
it forms small folds that
ruffle the fabric.
gathering
stitch:
A long version of the running
stitch, which is a stitch done
22. stuff & close the tail by weaving the needle in and
out of a length of fabric going
a. Turn the tail right side out and stuff it semi-firmly with stuffing. along a line. The long stitches
(about ¼”-½” long) gather
b. Take a hand sewing needle and thread it. Sew a gathering stitch the fabric when pulled later.
around the opening of the tail, about ¼" away from the edge.
Next, pull at the thread and this should cinch the opening of the
tail closed.
congrats!
This completes your
plush! Now give it a
big hug!
TEST SQUARE
2”
measure this square to
be sure you’ve printed
at the proper
proportions
applique
placement
¼” seam allowance
PAW (G)
FRONT
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applique BACK PAWS
trace & cut 1 in TOOTH applique
applique FRONT PAWS
black trace & cut 2 applique
trace & cut 1 in each in pink
white trace & cut 2
each in pink