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Welcome to
Kyoto
Kyoto is old Japan writ large:
quiet temples, sublime gardens,
colourful shrines and geisha
scurrying to secret liaisons.

Temples, Shrines & Gardens The Japanese Way of Life

There are said to be over 1000 Buddhist While the rest of Japan has adopted mo-
temples in Kyoto. You’ll find true master- dernity with abandon, the old ways are
pieces of religious architecture, such as the hanging on in Kyoto. Take a morning stroll
retina-burning splendour of Kinkaku-ji (the through the textile district of Nishijin and
famed Golden Pavilion) and the cavernous watch the old Kyoto ladies emerge from
expanse of Higashi Hongan-ji. Within the their machiya (traditional townhouses) to
temple precincts are some of the world’s ladle water onto their stoops. Visit an old
most sublime gardens, from the Zen mas- shōtengai (market street) and admire the
terpiece at Ryōan-ji to the riotous paradise ancient speciality shops: tofu sellers, fish-
of moss and blossoms at Saihō-ji. And then mongers, pickle vendors and tea merchants.
there are the Shintō shrines, monuments Then join the locals at a local sentō (public
to Japan’s indigenous faith. The mother of bath) to soak away the cares of the day.
all shrines, Fushimi Inari-Taisha, has mes-
merising arcades of vermillion torii (shrine The Changing Seasons
gates) spread across a mountainside.
No educated Kyotoite would dare send a
letter without making a reference to the
Cuisine season. The city’s geisha change their hair
Few cities of this size offer such a range ornaments 12 times a year to celebrate the
of excellent restaurants. Work your way natural world. And Kyoto’s confectioners
through the entire spectrum of Japanese create seasonal sweets that reflect whatever
food, from impossibly refined cuisine is in bloom. Starting in February and last-
known as kaiseki to hearty plebeian fare ing through the summer, a series of blos-
such as rāmen. There’s also a wide range soms burst open like a string of firecrackers:
of French, Italian and Chinese restaurants, plums, daphnes, cherries, camellias, azaleas
where the famed Japanese attention to de- and wisteria, among many others. And
tail is paired with local ingredients to yield don’t forget the shinryoku (the new green
fantastic results. Best of all, many of Kyoto’s of April) and the brilliant autumn foliage of
restaurants are in traditional wooden build- November.
ings, where you can gaze over intimate pri-
vate gardens while you eat.
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WILLIAM TANG / DESIGN PICS / GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P K Y O T O ’ S T O P 1 0
Arashiyama Kyoto Imperial Kinkaku-ji (p103)
Bamboo Grove Palace Park (p71)
5 Talk about eye candy:
(p110)
4 Home to the Kyoto the gold-plated main

3 Gosho (Imperial hall of this immensely

Western Kyoto is
Palace), this vast swathe popular temple in north-
home to one of the
of green in the city centre west Kyoto is one of the
most magical places in all
is a true sanctuary. Often most impressive sights in
Japan: the famed bamboo
overlooked by tourists, who all Kyoto – especially if your
grove in Arashiyama. The
rush to see the city’s tem- tastes run to the grand and
visual effect of the seem-
ples and shrines, the Kyoto gaudy. The main hall rises
ingly infinite stalks of
Imperial Palace Park is above its reflecting pond
bamboo is quite different
the perfect place to spend like an apparition. If you are
from any forest we’ve ever
a lazy afternoon reading lucky enough to be here
encountered – there’s a
a book, napping, playing on a bright sunny day, you
palpable presence to the
with the kids or picnicking. almost need sunglasses
place that is utterly impos-
The variety of trees here is to look at it. Go early on a
sible to capture in pictures,
amazing, and there’s usu- weekday morning to avoid
but don’t let that stop you
ally something in bloom. the crush of people that
from trying. If you’ve seen
In spring, don’t miss the descend on the temple
Crouching Tiger, Hidden
fantastic shidare-zakura each day.
Dragon, you have some
idea of what this place is (weeping cherry trees) at 1Northwest Kyoto
about. the north end of the park.

1Arashiyama & 1Central Kyoto

Sagano