Yucel Yalim - Alternative Nudes - Creative Lighting and Posing For Photographers-Amherst Media (2015)
Yucel Yalim - Alternative Nudes - Creative Lighting and Posing For Photographers-Amherst Media (2015)
Published by:
Amherst Media, Inc.
P.O. Box 586
Buffalo, N.Y. 14226
Fax: 716-874-4508
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ISBN-13: 978-1-60895-862-7
Library of Congress Control Number: 2014955645
Printed in The United States of America.
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Notice of Disclaimer: The information contained in this book is based on the author’s experience and opinions.
The author and publisher will not be held liable for the use or misuse of the information in this book.
4 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
About the Author
TABLE OF CONTENTS 5
1 Three-Light Setup: Sitting the Mood
Strong Areas of Light and Dark
What makes this image compelling visually is
the mirroring of feminine curves in body, hair,
and couch along with its series of strong repeat-
ing diagonals as seen in the model’s limbs.
Dramatic lighting was arranged to bring out
just such features.
What is dramatic lighting? To me, it is light-
ing with strong areas of light and dark contrast.
The image below shows what happens when
only two lights were used and where the over-
head strip light was not yet goboed.
The main light was a 10x36-inch gridded strip box
Lighting
behind the model. Rim was 10x36-inch gridded strip
Notice the legs of the model were in shadow at camera right. Hair light was 7-inch gridded cone
and hidden from view in this preliminary image, with barn doors between model and camera right.
bottom left, showing the lighting setup. She Gobo 1, a Calumet 3.5x6-foot reflector, was placed
between camera and rim light. Gobo 2 was a small
reflector above camera for main strip box. A reflector,
Calumet 3.5x6-foot reflector, was camera left.
Note the ghosting around the strip light. Proper gobo placement
between light and lens helps eliminate this ghosting.
6 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
a feathered reflector to camera left, sitting back the model’s hair only, which would have disap-
far enough to give the subtlest hint of definition peared without some direct light. Without tight
and fill to the left-side shadows. control on this light’s shape, it would have
The light-stand leg, seen in frame right of ruined all the fine contrasty shadows we worked
the lighting setup, was removed in post-pro- so hard to create in the rest of the image.
cessing of the final edited image. The choice
was made to leave the barn doors at top right
of the frame because this aided composition- It is . . . sometimes very effective
ally by balancing the local negative space.
to break conventions.
Removing the barn doors would have required
re-cropping the image tighter, taking away
from its current feeling of width. Interestingly,
the strip box above and behind the model not The goboed strip light to camera right was
only rimmed the couch, it also acted as the a low-to-the-ground, gridded strip box. Before
main light by casting the main shadows. This this light was added, we had an image that
was not a typical location for the main light. As appeared to float without a base. Adding this
seen here, it is very possible and sometimes very light brings into clear view the lovely diagonal
effective to break conventions. lines of the model’s legs, feet, and toes, which
The light seen on the light stand at frame mirror the diagonals of her arms and fingers.
right was tightly barn-doored and gridded. It lit
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 7
2 When Is a Nude Not a Nude: Escher Cat
About the Print Setup
The image Escher Cat is one of my best sell- In going for a peek-a-boo effect with the
ing giclée art pieces. The piece draws attention hat, we are connected with the dancer with-
even when not purchased. Usually, it is printed out drawing too much attention away from
large, 36x54-inches or 32x48-inches. Except the main focus of the strong dance pose and
for special orders, I’ve stopped printing 36x54- graphic elements. A beauty dish was placed
inches due to the difficulty of transporting such below the hat line. Otherwise, the model’s face
large prints. Even at these sizes, there is plenty would have displayed shadows cast by the hat.
of image detail in the final prints. To keep with the direction of the main light
coming from the left edge of the image, the
The Suit beauty dish was placed just to camera left. This
When I first set eyes on the zebra-stripe body established a feeling of pleasing depth in the
suit, I knew I had to have one—so, I ordered image that lighting from the right may have
two. Turns out the suits were crotchless. If you excessively flattened.
look at the preliminary image on this page, The background was a heavy white seamless
you will see a bit of bikini area skin showing. Savage vinyl, which lies flat. The ceiling in my
The body suit itself is a great prop element. It current studio is high, flat white, and set at a
has strong contrasting stripes that really grab 45-degree slope. My favorite high-key method is
the eye. Being constructed from a transpar- to bounce a White Lightning 3200 directly into
ent gauzy material, any clothing under the suit the ceiling to light the backdrop and provide an
might be visible and take away from the strong overall soft, overhead light as was used here.
lines of dancer and suit.
Small adjustments in body position create huge differences in balance and views of
the model’s face and noticeable skin slippages. Note skin showing in bikini area.
The pose in this final image, Escher Cat, was difficult to hold. It was best shot
with a nude model, comfortable in her skin. Skin does show in some frames.
8 ALTERNATIVE NUDES Dance training is usually a plus for holding difficult poses.
3 Is the Nude for You?
Art and the Nude The Setup
Art generates processes, forms, and ideas This image was taken in daylight using a White
that are groundbreaking. As a result, it is Lightning 3200 with a beauty dish for fill. You
not uncommon for culture clashes to occur can see the sun was to the model’s left by the
between societies and the artists who create highlight on her left breast. The fill at camera
art. Artists are people who often care more left cast the shadows and shows the definition
about their art than their own relationship to of her ripped abs.
The nude is a beautiful art form, Fill was supplied by a 22-inch beauty
seemingly without limit . . . dish on a White Lightning 3200.
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ALTERNATIVE NUDES 11
4 Postproduction Reflection
Planning the Reflection frame as shown in the image below, with the
This image used a very slick postproduction model in mid-frame, it would still have been
method to make a reflection of the subject. The easy with this low-key, uniformly dark back-
shot was taken with the final composition in ground to make the reflection in post.
mind and a plan to complete it in Photoshop. Two gridded strip lights, placed end to end,
The idea was to leave about two-thirds of the above and behind the model, lit the image.
lower part of the image blank. If I had shot the Thus, we have a rim of light going from head
Steps to Create the Reflection 5. Arrange the layers so the model’s blurred toes and elbows
1. Duplicate the layer that contains the model. align with the in-focus ones. Select one of the two layers
and use the Free Transform tool to move the selection until
2. Flip this copy layer vertically and reduce the opacity to the two images of the subject align with just a touch of
about 40–65 percent. space between them.
3. Apply a motion blur on this layer. The angle should be in a 6. Now create layer masks for both model layers. Selectively
direction between the two reflected halves. In this case, I paint the layer masks black to allow only the models to
used a 90-degree angle to get a vertical blur. Choosing a show through and to keep any distracting elements in the
pixel distance of 10–30 pixels should work fine. foreground of the top, in-focus layer from affecting the
reflection. Touch up this layer mask as needed to blend the
4. Position the layers so the original layer is at 100 percent two model images together seamlessly.
opacity and is on top of the newly copied layer. It is impor-
tant for the in-focus layer to be on top of the blurred layer The whole process takes about fifteen minutes. Very slick. It
to create a reflected-water look. Adjustments are easier and works faster if you leave foreground room in the original image.
more realistic with the focused layer on top. A lot less masking is then required.
12 ALTERNATIVE PORTRAITURE
I have also created a bit of tilt using
Photoshop’s Free Transform function, which
We have a rim of light going from I preferred to a flat-on, level approach. Since I
head to toe, with darkness toward didn’t create space in camera, I created a larger
foreground area to fill black by growing my
the camera side . . . canvas in Photoshop. This was done in a new
layer, at the bottom of my layer stack to use as
to toe, with darkness toward the camera side of an overall background to avoid any holes in my
and under the model. In postproduction, clean final composition.
up any blemishes or smooth skin as needed to
prep the image.
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5 Single Low-Key, Rim Light
Low-Key Light and Skimming
Low-key light can be all about the shadows and
what happens in the bits and pools of light. In
this image, as in most low-key images, our eyes
are drawn to the lighter, brighter areas of the
composition. Rim lighting the figure with one
gridded strip light creates very dramatic forms,
14 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
model’s belly or the light–dark transition along Magically, many fine art black & white nudes cover, conceal, or
her chin to neck. While we see little more than otherwise turn away to de-emphasize the attention-grabbing
a partial outline, we clearly get the mental pic- power of faces and thus allow the viewer to concentrate on the
ture of a beautiful nude woman. pure forms of the nude and its composition alone, unencum-
bered by the context of expression.
Posing and Lighting
I had the model tilt her head away from the The lighting in the final image, above, and in
camera. Thus, the viewer is left to gaze unin- the alternate image, facing page, was the same.
terrupted at the forms, driven more by their The difference is that the model was instructed
graphic impact and less by the context of facial to roll and shift her right knee out to her right
expression. This is an effective technique for in the final image, thus also twisting her lower
nudes, which differs from our usual view of the torso slightly. With this slight shift, the light
world, where faces are exposed and bodies are over her waist increased and improved its skim
hidden. Be aware when the model gazes into the slightly, as did the overall light on her lower
camera, eyes can powerfully draw the attention body—by just the right touch.
of the viewer, as we’ll see in other examples.
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6 Using a Single Boom Light
The Boom
If you are shooting in studio, seriously consider
getting a boom as soon as you have a second
light. Many multi-light setups can use a boom.
That said, the boom light could be used by itself
as in this image, Flaunt It. The C-stand was
sand bagged. Always sand bag lights on booms,
even in the studio. I have seen people hit on the
head by lights on booms, as they can be very
tippy. Be careful with them. With care, they cre-
ate opportunities to put light above the subject,
while keeping your strobe out of the picture.
Shadows can
and do draw in
the viewer and
stimulate their
imagination.
16 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
contrast, which I preferred with this image. It and illuminated the far side and a portion of
also created a sense of mystery and made the the model’s torso, while leaving her near side in
image considerably more sophisticated. mysterious shadows. Strategically plan and use
shadows in your black & white nudes. Shadows
Lighting and Shadows can and do draw in the viewer and stimulate
The single main light was overhead, on a boom their imagination.
arm, which was itself attached to a C-stand.
In this case, a gobo was used to keep lens flare
down to a minimum. The light was a gridded
strip placed just over the back of the couch. It
gave texture to the pleats, rimmed the wood,
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7 Start with the End in Mind
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8 Girls, Horses, and Sunsets
Working with Animals
Hiawatha’s Dream is a collaboration incorpo-
rating a number of my favored themes: body
paint, nudes, sunsets, and horses. In working
with animals, horses specifically, I always try to
have an experienced wrangler and model. This
is necessary for both safety purposes and to
ensure the best-possible results. The wrangler
and owner of this sweet yet powerful horse was
just out of the frame. The model is an accom-
plished rider, which shows in her calm, con-
trolled, and easy expression. Nonetheless, it is
always important to be careful with horses. This
said, working with animals and nude models
often makes for fun shoots and excellent shots.
Horses are tall beasts. To avoid shooting up
at them—boring—I was shooting down from a
ridge on a rise and placed the model below me
in a swale, which I scouted while the body paint
was being applied.
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with Einsteins, which have short durations, side with a beautiful golden glow. The White
in spite of half being the power of the White Lightning easily became the main light,
Lightning 3200. overpowering the waning sunlight to brightly
illuminate the faces of both the model and
Flash Modifiers and Ambient Light horse. Remember to set your exposure for the
In using flash modifiers, be sure not to use any ambient light first, and then adjust flash power
that cut too much power. A softbox cuts the as needed to overpower the available sun.
power output of a flash unit, often by several
stops. To keep a soft yet powerful light, my Tech Specs >
favorite modifier is usually a 22-inch beauty Camera: Nikon D90
dish. It seems to work great, so long as I don’t Lens: Nikon 18–200mm f/3.5–5.6 VR 2 @ 27mm
have to throw the light very far. Effective focal length: 40.5mm
Notice how the sunlight gives great defi- Exposure: 1⁄160 second, f/10, and ISO 200
MUA / Body paint: Visualize Creativity
nition to the horse’s rump, legs, and to the
Fantasy manipulation: Aglaia
model’s hair. Note too that it rims her left
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9 About Weather
22 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Postproduction
Postproduction consisted of a mix of treatments
to get the look of The Phoenix Rising in Phoenix
Contrast and the highlights were
that I was looking for: skin smoothing, bright- adjusted down slightly to take the
ening of the eyes, and so on, was done using
Photoshop, Portrait Professional, and Perfect focus off the brightness of skin.
Portrait. The sky texture and saturation was
brought up using HDR Efex Pro 2 followed by
Tech Specs >
increased clarity using Lightroom’s clarity slider.
Camera: Nikon D90
Lightroom’s Crossify preset improved the overall Lens: Nikon 50mm f/1.4
contrast and the highlights were adjusted down Effective focal length: 75mm
slightly to take the focus off the brightness of Exposure: 1⁄200 second, f/4, and ISO 200
skin. Everything was masked to taste. The whole Fill: Nikon SB-600
process took only 20 to 30 minutes, once the Body paint: Heather Aguilera
decision was made on which direction to go.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 23
10 Shoot Window Light Behind Camera
Window Light Depth of Field and Focus
There is often plenty of indirect light near win- I stopped down to f/2.8, which was still
dows, as long as you stay near enough. Window pretty fast with a fairly shallow depth of field.
light falls off according to the inverse square I positioned the model to be perpendicular to
law of light. This means you must be close to the camera, placing her entirely in the plane
the window, because the light drops off sharply
over a short distance. This is a reason many Shadows were muted and softened due to the distance
window-lit shots have the model leaning against from the window and bounce from the white sheets.
the window or are shot from the side with her
standing next to the window.
Shooting with indirect window light, where
the window is behind you, will not supply much
light. A model four feet from the window gets
four stops less light than a model one foot from
the window. This four-stop difference is 1⁄16 of
the light. At eight feet from the window, it is
1⁄64 the light at one foot and 1⁄4 the light at four
Shutter Speed
To shoot a 50mm lens hand-held without image stabilization, and
freeze most shots, I kicked the shutter speed up to over 1⁄100 second.
If shooting a crop-sensor camera, as was the case with the D7000
used, try a shutter speed closer to 1⁄125 or 1⁄150 second. While you can
hand-hold these lenses at perhaps 1⁄25 second on a full-frame, the shots
sometimes get blurred. It is a 1 in 2 or 3 chance per exposure for camera Tech Specs >
movement blur for most photographs. With these images, we were Camera: Nikon D7000
not so worried about the model moving—unless there were fleeting Lens: Nikon 50mm f/1.4D
expressions—as we were with camera shake. 1⁄125 second was perfect. Effective focal length: 75mm
Exposure: 1⁄125 second, f/2.8, and ISO 400
24 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
of focus. So, f/2.8 worked fine. I focus on the the window that was fanned out, and its gray
model’s eyes, always keeping them in focus, side was hung along the wall, which was near
unless I deliberately choose not to. the model’s feet. The white sheet in addition
Nikon seems to do a pretty good job of to a 42-inch reflector angled toward her feet
putting lots of focus points in the viewfinder. I provided as much light as I was able to redirect.
often move the point of focus off center. Nikon And overall soft light hit the model straight-on
cameras seem to have more focus points than with bounce all around her.
Canons. The Canon 5D Mark II has only nine
focus points. The 5D Mark III Canon begins to Postproduction
get near the focus-point spread of the prosumer Postproduction consisted of smoothing the
Nikon D7000 family. This reduction in focus model’s skin, removing the right leg, which
points with Canons is a major readjustment to I felt enhanced the curve of her flanks, and
my shooting style. converting to black & white. Blowing out the
whites and light grays in the bedspread reduced
The Setup the sheet’s shadows, which detracted from this
The model was placed on a white sheet that high-key nude. Only the darkness of the model
provided a nice background and also acted as remains to draw the eye.
a lighting fill. There was a blackout blind by
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11 Reflective Flooring
Lighting
Reveries Maid French was shot backlit by north-
facing window light on highly reflective wood
flooring. Two 3.5x6-foot reflectors provide fill,
one on either side of the camera, positioned
between camera and model.
26 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
frame left and the stool
at frame right. The moiré
lines that the two layers of
doorway screening have
created are in a diagonal
wavy-lined pattern. These
diagonal lines also lead to
the model, forming more
triangles with her mop.
These moiré lines usually
are not visible until after
you take the shot. They
can occur with any repeat-
ing patterns in photog-
raphy. Here I feel moiré
helped the overall final-
ized black & white image.
Wide-Angle Effect
The use of an ultra wide-
angle lens has distorted
perspective, making the
leading lines in the floor-
ing and the model’s legs
seem longer. This can be
sexy, though in a freakish
way, sometimes uncon-
sciously so, especially to
those unaware. I often
like to shoot low and
lengthen a model’s legs in
this fashion. While I like
the look and find it artis-
tically pleasing, many find
the effect disconcerting
for a more standard por-
trait. Know your audience
before you create inten-
tional distortion through I often like to shoot low and lengthen
the use of ultra wide-angle
a model’s legs in this fashion.
lenses.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 27
12 See It for What It Can Be
28 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
I have often seen images, like the original here, This image was a favorite. It came as a surprise some
which look very unimpressive only to become months after the original shoot, after I learned the Treat Eyes
client and personal favorites once processed. Process (see section 14) which makes the image sing.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 29
13 Fantasy Digital Manipulation
The Backdrop
We shot on a heavy polyester gray backdrop. I
love the color, yet am always frustrated by the
creases in these solid-color, non-black, cloth
backdrops. The black cloth drops may be fine if
made of sufficiently heavy weight materials like
the Westcott brand.
Here we selected the model out of the
background. When we do not, there may be
countless crease marks to remove from the
background. Beware of cheap imitations. While
paper looks amazing as a backdrop, it is heavy
(which can be a safety issue), tears, and gets
dirty. Cloth is durable. For white I prefer heavy The main light was a 47-inch Paul C. Buff octobox
vinyl like that from Savage. Lightweight vinyls placed on the right of the model at eye level. A strip
may be bargains, but they are too hard to keep box for fill was left of the model.
from wrinkling and may be too light to lay flat
underfoot.
If you cannot afford to construct a perma- This is the
nent, built-in cyclorama wall (a.k.a., a “cyc image as it
wall,” pronounced “psych”) the heavy gray was shot.
cloth will be satisfactory. Here, any solid color
Collaboration Tips
• While one may pay thousands to work with talented collaborators, often the
costs may be well under $100. Look on the Model Mayhem website for collabo-
rators. Ask what the charges are. Make sure you retain full rights to the final and
initial images. Your results may awe and inspire you.
• Do give feedback to your collaborators and contractors on what is right and
what needs further attention.
30 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Stay Faithful
Though the overall effect
is quite lovely, much
was required in the way
of postproduction and
integration support. There
were a total of nine proofs.
Even when working
with a very capable team of
collaborators as I was here,
if it is going to have my
name on it, I must exercise
control to keep the illusion
fully alive, and keep the
final product in line with
my overall vision.
Inspired by a Tinker Bell
theme, collaborator Eithne
Ni Anluain envisioned and
created the full manipula-
tion for this image. It was
brilliant how she played
off the rose tattoos on
the model’s lower calves,
by placing her captive in
a rose bush, as she breaks
free of the glass bell
jar. However, an earlier
preview from Ni Anluain
lacked depth in the ped-
estal. The glass lacked full
highlight applications to
give the illusion of a fully
curved form.
While many options
were under consideration
and construction—includ-
ing flipping the image and adding wings—it
Tech Specs >
is ultimately up to us as photographers to Camera: Nikon D90
provide artistic direction and keep our vision Lens: Nikon 18–200 f/3.5–5.6 VR @ 38mm
alive and in place. We should only present the Effective focal length: 57mm
most perfect final product we are capable of Exposure: 1⁄125 second, f/8, and ISO 200
orchestrating.
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14 Treat Eyes Process
Steps for the Treat Eyes Process The snooted strobe was directed on the model’s face.
• Sharpen the eyes a bit using your favorite
tool. Remove some red veins in the eye
whites. Remove the catchlight in the eyes
using a clone or stamp tool. This is a close up of the color raw image
• If the eyes are dark, dodge them a bit lighter. before treat eyes process was applied.
Do not lighten or over lighten light-color eyes.
• Create four empty layers in Photoshop.
• In the first empty layer paint small white
catchlights. Put a Gaussian blur at about
1.5–2.5 pixels on the layer. Make sure each
catchlight is in a plausible position, usually at
10–11 or 1–2 o’clock.
• In the second layer, place a second set
of slightly larger white catchlights in the
same locations. Again, use a 1.5–2.5 pixel
Gaussian blur.
• Turn down the opacity to taste on both of
these layers. You now have your catchlights.
• In the third layer, paint a half moon crescent
32 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
shape in the iris, opposite
the catchlights. Apply a
Gaussian blur at 3–7 pixels.
The color used tends to
be light greenish/yellow
to light bluish/green for
blue/green eyes and light
yellow/orange and vari-
ous golden/honey tones
for dark eyes. Experiment.
Once the eyes are painted
and blurred, try different
blend modes and lower the
opacity level to taste. The
Color Dodge mode can
work, as does the normal
mode. Sometimes the
opacity can be as low as 4
percent, sometimes it can
be much higher.
• On the fourth layer, place
a smallish football-shaped
mark in the center of the
half moon you made in
layer three. Use a similar
but slightly different varia-
tion of the color palette
than used on layer three.
Apply Gaussian blur at
3–7 pixels. Vary the blend
modes, and turn down
opacity to taste.
• Lastly, burn the dark ring
between iris and the eye’s
whites to taste. About
5–10 percent exposure in
the midtones or shadows
works nicely.
The catchlights have been created at about 2 o’clock in both eyes, with lightened half moons
opposite them. The burned outer iris ring creates lovely targets to draw in the viewer’s eyes.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 33
15 Eyes Closed or Open
Alternate pose
34 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
which the model may also
appreciate. It differs from
the easy-to-look-at image
with the model looking
away. Note the contrast
in this final image, where
she looks back, challeng-
ing the viewer.
While the model was
nude, notice how your
eyes go first to her eyes,
and keep going back to
her eyes. The eyes and
lips are so compelling
that we don’t instantly
notice that she is nude
but for a bit of paint on
her all-but-forgotten,
perfectly perky breasts.
This image demon-
strates the power of faces,
especially beautiful or
expressive faces, with
openly challenging eyes
looking at the camera.
This model is so beauti-
ful that she almost cannot
take a bad portrait. Yet
look at the right-hand
image on the facing
page. While she is clearly
beautiful, the expression
is neither as effective nor
as captivating as it should
be for a final image. When
we have a weaker image,
we start to notice things
like her left palm and her
A beautiful portrait of a beautiful woman in body paint, whose appeal, to
right nipple, maybe even
people who don’t know her, as a print they wish to own, is rather limited.
her armpit. Expressions count.
New Surroundings Inspire touch of fill from the reflector, was all that was
Look for a location that is something other needed to pull out a very sexy image (facing page).
than the same old backdrop or the same tired Wide-angle lenses are a favorite of mine, and
surroundings of your home or studio to inject here I used the Tokina 11–16mm f/2.8. When
a new feel into your images. Try a hotel room, shooting with crop-sensor cameras—I often use
a room where you live, or set up a shoot while Nikons—I love this lens and used it success-
out of town. Just being in new surroundings fully on many shoots, without complaint. I did
inspires me. Hotel rooms are a great, inexpesive have an issue when I tried using it on a Nikon
way to expand your location-shooting looks. D3100. The D3100 body will not autofocus
If traveling to another location, it probably this lens, as there is no servomotor built in.
means that new model and talent arrangements Here I used a Nikon D7000 and focusing was
may be made, making for a double win. This not an issue.
model was found using a casting call on Model
Mayhem before a planned trip.
Experimenting
Equipment As lighting in a room may be on the dark side, try setting up
Traveling light, I had only my camera, a 5-in-1 your shots near the largest window. Windows themselves,
as with these images, can make a lovely backdrop. Curtains
style 42-inch collapsible reflector, and a couple
may be a nice prop touch, too. In the images on this page,
of lenses—all anyone needs for great shots. The
note that the curtain’s colored patterns are too busy and
available light from the window, with perhaps a distracting. After the shoot, cropping the curtains out or down
created issues with the window frame becoming obviously
The distracting reds and greens of the curtain pull the eye
non-square, or the lines of the window frame then seeming to
away from the subject in the full color original.
more prominently cut the model at the knees.
Cropping closer creates distractions where the window Try black & white. Working in black & white eliminates a
frame becomes obviously not square. number of distracting colors. We can now focus on the sinewy,
smooth S curve of the model, from her hand to the tip of her
platform-shoed toe. She seems impossibly curvy, yes? The
model’s curves are in stark contrast to the strong vertical and
horizontal lines of the window frame. In the final cropping, the
curtains, with a slight vignette, soften the feel of the image
periphery, while our eyes are drawn to the model and her
outline against the stark whitish window light.
36 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 37
17 Assemble Team Alice
40 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Communicating the Theme The model had to lie on her back to keep the egg in place. Note
Many who view this image at first see a nipple the fine textures on the eggshell and skin.
on a breast. By coming in close and removing
many contextual reference points, the swol- Both belly and egg represent fecundity and
len belly, which natural though it is, is a rare the ripeness of womb in life’s circle. Hatchlings
and unusual sight in modern America, where brings together two separate objects hav-
interestingly we see many more breasts. Many ing a similar function, and the viewer sees the
heads turn away too soon to see what is truly abstractions of their texture and forms echoed
here. Those that linger are often delightfully in each other.
and smilingly surprised.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 41
19 Shallow Focus
Lenses and Reduced Depth of Field an f/1.8 and an f/1.2 is seldom noticeable
Reducing the depth of field by shooting with beyond f/4. In the days of film photography,
wide apertures can provide worlds of interest- we dreamt of having an f/1.4 or f/1.2 so we
ing images when shooting nudes. I almost could have enough light to capture an image.
never shoot wider than f/1.8 when shooting With digital photography, we can shoot eas-
normal and telephoto lenses and seldom wider ily and clearly at ISOs of 800 on up, and even
into ISO 3200 for many shots. This greatly
diminishes the value that ultra-fast normal-to-
Reducing the depth of field medium telephoto lenses had once provided
still photographers.
creates softened details, The depth of field on an 85mm lens at f/1.2
where the viewer can fill in is very shallow. It is extremely difficult to get
both of the subject’s eyes in focus—and even
with their mind’s eye. more so with any head twist or tilt in a head-
and-shoulders type shot. The plane of focus
is so extremely thin, I find it frustrating even
than f/2. So, I do not see the point of some- trying to focus both.
thing like a 85mm f/1.2 in the realm of digital Lenses slower than f/2.8 tend to focus more
photography. While the fastest lenses tend to slowly and create darker viewfinder images. So
be sharper, the degree of sharpness between there is definite value to fast glass when you
mean f/2.8. Also, when you get wider than say
50mm, for example, 35mm or a 24mm, then
f/1.4 may play a useful role as this will counter-
act the depth-of-field increases of wider lenses.
This Image
This lovely image was shot at f/2.5 using a
50mm Nikon f/1.4D, a very sharp lens, if one
stops down past f/2. Notice how the depth of
field just covered the model’s lips and started to
soften past her nose toward the foreground and
her chin toward the background.
42 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Reducing the depth of field creates softened This is about as shallow as I typically like my depth of field. By the
details, where the viewer can fill in with their time we fade down to nipples, we have a clear hint of their blurry
mind’s eye what may or may not be happening presence. At the thighs, there is only assumption and mystery
in an image. It also serves to refine details that that makes us imagine and linger.
might otherwise be considered more vulgar if
totally in focus. In effect, the model is clothed get until you take the exposure. Many cameras
in a very sexy soft focus. actually show an image around f/2.8 in their
finders, then open up, or stop down the iris
Shallow Focus automatically when you release the shutter to
Shallow focus can work to improve the con- capture the image. You will have to see how
tent of an image by hiding any variety of sins, you and your equipment are performing.
such as unsightly backgrounds or parts of the Experiment with different depth of fields
model you may wish to have out of focus due by varying your aperture and focus points, and
to distracting marks, blemishes, and so on. shift perspective by moving your vantage point
Conversely, one can focus clearly on the wom- around. In shooting shallow focus, any slight
anly parts, and let the face go anonymously variation in aperture, focus point, or perspec-
out of focus. tive will provide markedly varied results. Focus
In shooting shallow focus, use the back of may work best on an automatic setting, but try
your screen and vary your focus points, as it manual, too. You may be greatly pleased.
is very difficult to know exactly what you will
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 43
20 Guerilla Shooting: Strong Lines
The Setting/Location critical, and perfecting the pose was not possi-
This guerilla-style shot took some care and fast ble in the time allotted, I had the model slowly
shooting to pull off. A private room was just crawl along the hallway, while I followed, hand-
out of the frame with door ajar. Our ears were holding the camera, closely behind.
cocked for any sound that might indicate a door
opening, or people approaching. A bathrobe The Pose and Model
was within arms reach. If you shoot guerilla, The pose was contrived to accentuate the
make sure you stay legal. That said, it could feeling of fast receding depth. This was accom-
provide some really unusual and therefore out- plished in part by having the model keep her
standing shots when you get them right. butt up and lowering her shoulders. If she
dropped her head, it created a disembodied
Strong Lines look, so she kept her head held high, which also
The graphics of recurring strong diagonal pat- really shows off her lovely head of hair. This
terns in flooring, strong slanted vertical lines in model already has a long shapely body. Her
wall décor, the wall edges at door cut-outs, and long body works well to enhance the infinite
the corridor’s converging lines suggestive of a feel of the hallway. A shorter or wider model
railroad track lines that eventually meet on the would not have worked as well with this hall-
horizon, were all too irresistible not to hazard way and pose.
getting this shot.
The best lines and flow occurred with the Desaturate
model’s legs staggered as shown. As time was Much of the image has been desaturated, except
for the hallway flooring. The green and contrast-
Tech Specs > ing lavender create a subtle pull, which I found
Camera: Nikon D7000 pleasing to retain. As you can see from the image
Lens / focal length: Tokina 11–16mm f/2.8 @ 11mm
on the facing page, color added confusion to the
Effective focal length: 16.5mm
scene. Desaturating had the effect of increasing
Exposure: 1⁄30 second, f/4, and ISO 800
the impact of form versus the chaos of color.
Black & white conversion, or desaturation, can
often rescue an image shot in complex surround-
ings. Knowing this, if the graphical elements
are in place, take the shot anyway and see how
it looks in black & white. Try previewing it on
your camera preview screen, if your camera has a
black & white feature.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 45
21 Lighting a Model on a Car Engine
Challenging to Light
While it may not be immediately obvious until A 7-foot reflective umbrella lit the floor and right front
you try, lighting models in cars can be very fender. A softbox lit the interior of the hood, engine com-
challenging. Cars have small compartments partment, and model’s left side.
surrounded by metal and glass. All of the metal An overhead skylight
creates obstacles to light and limits camera provided mid-day sun.
angles, placing restrictions on camera place-
ment in the cramped car cabins and such. The
glass creates obstacles that are difficult to pho-
tograph through, as glass bends light creating
reflections and other effects.
The Car
This 1955 fully restored and custom-painted
T-Bird was one of the easiest cars to light. What
made the T-Bird easy is twofold. First, it was a
Teal gelled strobe
convertible, and the cabin had easy access from
intensified color on
the top and easier access from sides. Second, left quarter panel and 47-inch Octobox lit the interior
its hood opened forward. As you can see in the on the model. of car through the open door
image, I could shoot the engine compartment and provided fill for model.
from inside the car.
Positioning
In the case of Funz, who is an extremely ath-
letic model, we were able to balance her on
one foot on top of the supercharger. I precisely
positioned her right hand about twelve inches
in front of my lens to get the exact framing I
was looking for.
Lighting
Placing a teal gelled strobe at about the top of
the driver’s door created the teal color on the
model’s right side. There was a large parabolic
reflecting 7-foot Paul C. Buff umbrella in front
of the car hood. This gave some light and
46 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
definition to the shop floor, and it also
created that nice highlight on the right-
front headlight housing area.
There was a skylight above. It was
midday. The sun was beating through
pretty hard. You can see its catchlight
in the shift column. While the impact
of light is minor on non-reflective
surfaces, any light will show bright on
reflective surfaces. The effect needs to
be a pleasing one, as it is here, on your
overall composition.
The main cabin light comes from
a 47-inch octobox placed just next to
the car at about eye level to the model.
The right car door was open to allow
light to enter the lower parts of the
passenger compartment. The driver’s
door was left closed to keep the teal
light away from this beautifully textured
white interior.
Finally, there was a small softbox
just ahead of the windshield to light
the engine compartment and car hood.
Without this light, there would have
been unsightly shadows cast by the
model from the octobox onto the hood.
Postproduction
Note the image as first shot (facing page)
with the original colors. Many people
believe that the colors of the car and
There was a black area by the driver’s seat that was my left foot. I succeeded
model were created in Photoshop, but
in removing it in postproduction.
the basic colors existed in the original file.
Initially, One Stop Photoshop had intensified
Tech Specs >
the colors a little and provided an undersized
Camera: Nikon D90
file, which proved too small for the size prints
Lens: Tokina 11–16mm f/2.8 @ 13mm (effective: 19.5)
I wished to make. The color intensification Exposure: 1⁄160 second, f/7.1, and ISO 200
process was simply to play with Photoshop Body paint: Lalo Cota and Thomas Breeze Marcus
HDR filters, contrasts, saturation, and vibrancy MUA: Vicki Vong
settings until I got the final image. Hair styling: Nancy DeOrta and Custom Car: Widow Industries
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 47
22 Open Shade
Focusing section 19 about the challenges of shooting
These shots were taken in open shade with a shallow focus using ultra-fast, wide-angle
a Nikon 85mm f/1.4D lens at f/1.4 using a lenses. However when it works, it is worth it.
crop-sensor body making the effective focal In this image the focus was acceptable, and the
length 127.5mm, though with the depth of fast fade of the focus made the image sensual
focus of an 85mm lens. Everything is true in and sexy instead of tactlessly graphic.
The price to pay for shooting shallow focus
The set of eyes from the main image is the lower left. Only the was many unusable frames. While the final
lower-right image was tack sharp. Shooting at f/1.4, only image is quite lovely, look closely at the image
10–20 percent of the shots randomly had the focus point where to the left. The eyes are various degrees of
I desired them. blurry in all but the lower-right image. My
focus was on the eyes in each image; only one
of these was tack sharp. That is why photog-
raphers get a 85mm lens; it is supposed to be
sharp. And it is, if you can get the focus right
on. This is not easy for a moving subject like a
model, or while handholding the camera. To
have a successful shot, it is best to have focus
points in the viewfinder where you need them.
Tech Specs > Turning the subject’s face up toward the openly shaded sky
Camera: Nikon D7000 reduces unsightly shadows on the face. To achieve this, be sure
Lens: Nikon 85mm f/1.4D you can get your camera angle right. I was shooting down from
Effective focal length: 127.5mm a stepladder.
Exposure: 1⁄250 second, f/1.4, and ISO 100
48 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
About one in five images was truly
focused. I am pretty good at getting
the eyes in focus. It is my objective.
Lots of pretty poses get ruined due
to poor focus. Moving to black &
white and bumping up contrast helps
increase the appearance of sharpness.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 49
23 Creative Impulse
My Creative Impulse
Creative impulse can come from anywhere. The
way I cook often has me rummaging through
the kitchen and mixing and matching to taste
what is there until something delicious comes
out. At other times, I will have the end in
mind before I start. The same is true for my
photography. My creative impulse comes from
50 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
seeing my models and sur-
roundings, and then mixing
until something beautiful comes
out. At other times, I may have
something in mind and put the
elements in place to recreate my
mental image.
Inspiration
In the case of Makossa, named
after the Michael Jackson song,
I knew what I wanted before
I started. I had seen photo-
graphs of a model with a zipper
that had two different pat-
terns painted on the inside and
outside—like peeling a banana.
It came to me that we often say
we are all the same inside, and I
wished to say this with a visual
metaphor.
Makossa is a Liberian word
for a type of dance in which
the dancers spin like peeling a
vegetable. The similarity of the
metaphor and the zipper still
gives me tingles.
Keys to Success how to de-emphasize the less-than-pretty parts using the poses
• Particular to shooting boudoir, we will often be working with subjects you have chosen.
who are not professional models and who may be advancing in years. • Choice of camera angles are often key. Shooting low lengthens
As always, we are looking for each woman’s best features. Those that legs and may conceal something on the torso. Shooting from
may not be her best, we adroitly de-emphasize through combinations above may work great for a woman with large beautiful breasts,
of proper posing, lighting, concealment with props, camera angles, which may be used to shield belly or even thigh areas.
lens perspective distortions, proper upbeat banter, and postproduc- • Lens perspective may help or hurt you. Control depth of field and
tion. These are a lot of areas to master, and missteps in any one area choice of wide angle versus telephoto for emphasizing what you
could seriously impact a woman’s self-image, or view of photography, will and eliminating or distorting flatteringly what you won’t. Use
or of you the photographer. depth of field and lens choices to emphasize the positive or distort
• Use lighting to hide unflattering elements with darkness and shadows. areas into something more flattering
• Props and wardrobe are used to cover scars or excessive flesh. • In postproduction, expect to touch up skin. Keep it real looking; avoid
Remember, anything can be a prop: chairs, hairbrushes, silk sheets, the plastic look. Use Liquefy function if you must. Do it sparingly and
hats, and so on. note that it will work poorly with complicated backgrounds. A quick
• Poses must be chosen that best show the assets and hide the less desir- trick that often works is the Free Transform function to make the
able areas. For example, do not shoot right at stretch marks, where model perhaps 5 percent thinner just by changing the image aspect
an arm might be posed to cover them. In photographing the average ratio a tiny bit.
nude woman, you cannot just choose the latest pose used with a • Finally, make sure you keep your banter upbeat, positive and pro-
52 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
professional model you saw online. Know a set of great poses, and be fessional as discussed in section 25. Boudoir carries a responsibility
able to pick the right pose for the woman who is your subject. Know to make average women look like models.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 53
25 The Role of Banter
General Rules
When dealing with nude or semi-nude women counting on us to make
them feel good about themselves, we are dealing with naked egos that
are easily bruised by our words. General rules are: we must not say any- Gridded strip box
thing like, “ooops,” or “that’s not right!” or “UGLY!” That is, unless you can placed on boom
make a joke out of it. And you better know you are funny before you try.
The natural tendency is for subjects to take anything we say under
our breath or out loud as a personal poor reflection on their otherwise
beautiful selves. This is especially tricky when we have camera malfunc-
tions and express our frustration through voice, tone, or body language.
Work to keep the session upbeat at all times. The right music helps a
lot. But make sure the subject can still hear your direction over any
A gridded strobe at camera left was aimed on the
background studio sounds. This is necessary to keep communication open
neck and hands. A gridded strip box on a boom
as well as for safety. Do be sure to say things like,” Beautiful, that’s it! Very
was positioned above the model’s knees.
good, gorgeous.”
54 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
them they are beautiful, it is because you as way. Getting a pose like the one seen in Ravish
a photographer identify beauty every day. (above) requires quite a rapport and trust. The
Beautiful is something you say as an artist, as model does not usually curl up on the sofa that
an admirer of beauty, as an expert in beauty. way, even with proper direction and banter. It
Think stylist, not creepy guy looking for a just looks like she does.
date. If you cannot do it, do not. You’ll get She might be hearing, “Pull your knees
yourself into trouble. tighter to your chest—good. Point your toes.
How do you tell a woman she is beautiful Beautiful. Arch your back a bit more. Gorgeous.
without drooling? Be all about the beautiful Lovely, stay right there. I’m moving. Stay
portraits you two are working to create. Be there. Stay there. Got it. Great work. Open
about the images. Make sure she knows it is your mouth a bit wider. Good. A little less. Yes.
all about the beautiful images of her beautiful That’s it. Now a bit more pressure with your
self. Then, she may show you what you need to right hand.” And so on.
capture your images.
Without the right banter, a shoot can quickly
TECH SPECS >
lose energy, and that will be evident in the
Camera: Nikon D7000
images. Any missteps in your banter and tone
Lens: Nikon 17–55mm f/2.8 AF-S
could ruin a woman’s self-confidence and
Focal/Effective: 31mm / 46.5mm
temper the memory of her experience with Exposure: 1⁄250 second, at f/10.0, and ISO 100
you the photographer who made her feel this
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 55
26 Painterly Pinup
My Goal
Since youth, with glances at Playboy magazine
and the like, I’ve always been drawn to pinups
in the style of Vargas, Olivia, and others.
These image styles have an airbrushed qual-
ity to the skin, and the models are often set
in stark backgrounds, perhaps white, black, or
otherwise monotone.
My goal was to create a process that gives
a painterly pinup feel to photography. With
the process I created, I found that the model
An AlienBees B800 with a large gridded softbox was the main
must have a fair-degree of skin showing. The
light. A gridded White Lightning 3200 was bounced off the ceil-
smoothness of skin is part of what gives the ing for main fill. The 10x20-foot white vinyl backdrop provided
whole air-brushed effect. If the model is wear- plenty of reflected fill.
ing too much covering, there isn’t enough skin
exposed to give that smooth skin feel. You can
experiment with clothing and props; just leave
Tech Specs >
quite a bit of skin exposed. Remember, even
Camera: Nikon D7000
a corset or stockings, sexy though they are, Lens: Nikon 70–200 f/2.8 VR2 @ 92mm
cover some skin. Use too much in the way of Effective focal length: 138mm
clothing and the smoothing of this technique Exposure: 1⁄250 second, f/6.3, and ISO 100
will not work right.
Image as shot.
The Painterly Process
The painterly process applied is a matter of taste, and may be
developed for other backgrounds. I prefer to shoot on a plain
white, high-key background with lighting that is much flatter
than my usual lighting. Specifically, the lighting ratios are kept
fairly low, which feels much flatter and more uniform across the
skin. I feel this helps keep the skin smoother, more airbrush-like,
across the model’s whole body.
Taking the image into Photoshop, I retouch as I normally
would. Aside from some extra skin smoothing, I refine the image
using my standard workflow.
Then, a Bleach Bypass filter is run. I like to use Nik Color Efex
4’s Bleach Bypass filter. I’ve played with the settings to give me
the Vargas look I’m going for. The actual settings are a matter of
personal taste. I know it when I get close to it—and so will you.
Masking layers are used to adjust contrast, levels, and bright-
ness to get the image to pop. Again, it is a matter of taste.
The last step for this image was to drop in the classic pinup
background, which was done by masking out the foreground and
adding a couple layers of background. Try it—it’s fun.
Our model was lightly propped, showing plenty of skin. When smoothed and treated in postproduction, we get that airbrushed feel.
27 Two-Light Setup
Direction of Light
In the image The Truth of Dreams, the model
was lying on her back restfully with a 22-inch
gridded beauty dish main light pointing from
above, slightly toward the top of and to her
face’s right.
58 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Lighting Adjustments Closed eyelids, titling head, and the “Veritas” tattoo, lovely red
Slight tilts of the head can make for dramatic lacings, and eye shadow applied by our MUA, have made The
variations in the final image. Not just because Truth of Dreams a popular fine art piece by allowing the viewer
they change affective expression, but also they to imagine their own contexts.
markedly alter the effect and direction of point
light sources. The fill light, which we hand-
held, was visible as a smaller catchlight almost
on axis with the camera, just to the right of
Tech Specs >
and almost directly over the model. Without
Body: Nikon D7000
fill, the shadows would have been deeper, with
Lens: Nikon EF-S 17–55mm f/2.8 @ 34mm
the mood more dramatic, less dream-like, more
Effective focal length: 51mm
nightmarish perhaps. One may always experi- Exposure: 1⁄250 second, f/8, and ISO 100
ment by adjusting fill flash power settings to Main: 22-inch gridded beauty dish
get just the degree of contour and shadow Fill: 7-inch gridded cone reflector
desired for different moods. MUA: Visualize Creativity
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 59
28 Two Rim Lights
Low-Key and Rim Lighting the model’s perifery from the dark background.
Low-key lighting means we are shooting against Gridded strip boxes are my favorite kind of rim
a dark backdrop and so are separating our sub- light. Strips are, after all, shaped like rims—
ject by means of how light they appear versus elongated. Additionally, grids collimate and
this dark setting. further enhance the strip-like quality, thus keep-
Often my initial low-key stage is set using ing the light falling evenly on the subject, while
rim lighting. Rim lighting helps create a fine, controlling spill and contrast. I have three strip
light/dark contrasting edge that acts to separate lights, and all have grids attached at all times. I
almost always use one of them, and frequently
employ all three.
Equipment
When lights are shining directly towards a lens,
as is often the case with rim and backlights,
gobos are often useful in controlling this flare,
as was the case here. Calumet’s 3.5x6-foot
reflectors can be either reflective silver or white
on one side and black on the other. Both reflec-
tor and gobo are used here. Here, they were
used double duty, as reflector and gobo both.
60 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Technique
The amount of fill is
controlled by feath-
ering and is applied
according to taste. If
I desire no fill, I can
turn the black sides of
the reflectors toward
the lights or feather
carefully the reflections
away from my subjects.
If the black sides are
toward the lights, take
care not to then shine
light onto the reflective
backs and thus back
into the camera lens.
Nikon 85mm 1.8G
is arguably one of the
sharpest lenses ever
made. It was used here
at f/5.6. The effec-
tive focal length was
127mm, so I had taken
a step back to obtain
this framing. The depth
of field only needed
to cover the width of
two narrow dancer’s
legs, so f/5.6 provided
quite enough depth of
field to keep the legs in
focus. I did not wish to
have the background
come into sharp focus,
as this composition
was to be all about our
mature dancer’s beauti-
fully sculpted legs.
In this image, the complete setup was two rim lights plus
two combination reflector/gobos. The reflectors were
placed between the lights and the camera, which helped
keep lens flare under control.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 61
29 Lighting for Texture
Texture and Value This image, unretouched, shows how the light wraps behind the
In photographing shibari, a ritual form of model, and you can see there is a little detail on her dark side
Japanese rope bondage, texture and form are provided by a 3.5x6-foot rectangular stand-up Calumet
often center stage. With texture, think varying reflector. This image also shows how a slight shift of the focus
values, color like lighter reds with darker reds, point dramatically changes the image.
or in luminosity with variations in black and
white like dark grays with lighter grays. These
elements enhance our impression of textures by
creating a sense of variation in surface depth.
This shot was edited entirely in Adobe
Lightroom CC. The clarity slider bumped up
contrast, and a few blemishes were removed.
This along with conversion to black & white
served to bring up textural contrast between
the rope fibers and fine blonde body hairs jux-
taposed against the smooth planes of the young
model’s skin.
62 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Aperture
Considerations
Shooting at f/8 accommodated
enough depth of field at a very
sharp range for the lens. The
fine hairs on the model’s skin
and the fibers on the rope are
sharp and stand out. Often f/8
will provide enough depth.
Stopping down too much
further when we need more
depth often comes at a loss of
sharpness. Conversely, opening
up the aperture would have
created too shallow a focus
range when we are trying to
focus across the width of the
model’s torso as in this image.
If you look closely, the left
side of the image is already
experiencing a softening of
focus. In the case of this image,
the softness helps give a sense
of depth. It is, of course, open
to taste and experimentation.
Lighting
was set to
enhance
textural
contrast . . .
A 100mm Macro lens was used to allow focusing as close as I cared to get to perfectly frame the
shot. To get exactly the texture from the light and shadows, micro adjustments were made, first
on the light position and power, then by delicate, slight turns of the model’s body—to get just
the right amount of light skim. The light rims the model’s left, falling off across her body,
skimming the high points and the rope as it moves toward the model’s right.
30 Unusual Poses
64 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 65
31 Puppet Warp for Nudes
Photoshop Liquify and Puppet Warp while standing on one pointe. Everything is in
Photoshop’s Liquify tool should be used only the initial capture except the degree of “C” curve
where it will not create more problems than I desired. The model gave a great pose. Yet, I
it eliminates. When the Liquify tool is used desired more in the final image—to push visual
on complex backgrounds, such as patterns, it reality to the limit, while keeping it real looking.
creates a distortion that can be noticeable and
distracting. Liquify cannot be used on just any Puppet Warp, a Lifesaver
image. The Puppet Warp tool is similar in these The Puppet Warp tool can be a lifesaver if you
regards, as it stretches the fabric of any image need to bend a finger in or a leg out. Keep the
being transformed. wardrobe and background simple if you antici-
Due to background simplicity and only pate using warping or liquefaction. Using skin
smooth skin at the intended points of warping, or a smooth, white, unpatterned, non-wrinkled,
the image Ode de Joy was a perfect candidate Spandex-like, form-fitting fabric helps. Plan
for Puppet Warp. It was already great as shot, your poses, backgrounds, props, and wardrobe
and I did not need to thin out the model or accordingly.
bend her—though I did.
The Steps in Postproduction
Objective This series was part of my Painterly Pinup proj-
I was trying to get an ecstatic look, with the ect (as was the image in section 36) and each
model’s elated expression, while stretching with was post-treated similarly. Then I followed these
her back open in a reverse “C” shaped pose, all steps, first selecting part of the image and copy-
ing it onto a new layer and then proceeded to
Edit>Puppet Warp.
As illustrated in image A (facing page), I
started at the base and worked my way up.
The image of
the model was
pinned at the
knee, bending it
backwards a bit
more. Shown
in gray is the
model’s original
position. The
knee joint was
The main light, left, was a large softbox. The fill was pinned because
a large softbox on the right. A White Lightning 3200 it is a very
was bounced off the white angled ceiling for top fill
and background light.
Original shot.
66 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
A
C
natural place to create such a bend. Try to work shoulders and breasts, she has been bent back.
at natural joints, unless you desire an unnatural In image C, I took the most care, turning the
look or are delicate with your touch. wrist out and bending at the right elbow created
In image B, I pinned her just above the waist a potentially disfiguring moment. It took a few
bending backwards, while not allowing the tries to get the treatment precise. Work with lay-
perfect torso to distort unnaturally. The degree ers, and save your work when you are at a point
of bending becomes clear when you see how at where you might lose something valuable.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 67
32 Shooting Downtown
Make the Unexpected Believable throughout the image. Otherwise, the illusion
A nude in a setting you do not expect to see will be subtly lost. People may not know why
one is unusual and incredibly striking. However they do not believe the image; they just will not.
shooting nudes on location may require getting a
permit. Another relatively safe, non-offensive way My Process
is to shoot the city background, and then drop in I wanted to check out two tilt shift (TS-E)
a studio shot image of a nude using Photoshop. lenses Canon CPS lent me: the 17mm and the
Make the lighting on both images consistent. 24mm version II. I loved the 24mm, and it was
Bodies throw shadows and might reflect on used for the background. The camera was on a
things. Plan these details into your composi- tripod, facing north during the late afternoon
tion, and get all these effects of light consistent with sun falling low in the sky to camera left
and slightly behind the camera.
The main light in the studio-shot image
(opposite page, bottom right) was on camera
right to the front of the model. In Photoshop, I
transformed the studio image with a horizontal
flip, effectively changing the lighting direction
to be fairly consistent in direction to the city
shot’s lighting. Otherwise, the main lights in
This shows the composite without cropping. The TS-E lens does
a great job straightening out all the orthogonal lines. A
rectilinear ultra-wide-angle lens like the Sigma 15mm can do
a similar job, with the click of a button in Lightroom. Or, use
any lens and shoot being mindful to match perspectives,
lighting, reflections, and shadows.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 69
33 Breaking Rules
Fundamentally Curious and Creative I like it. It is my vision. Maybe in a few years,
We as artists are curious about possibilities and it will catch on; all maternity will shift in this
driven by our curiosity to craft our dreams into direction. It does not matter—I do it for
reality. We learn what had been possible in the myself. Van Gogh was an artist whose works
past, and then move forward to create what is went unappreciated until his passing. And he
now only a concept. changed the world of art forever. Sometimes
Walk of life is not your typical maternity pho- art is about breaking rules. Many artists have
tograph. This is what happens with my mater- second jobs or create crafts to fund their art
nity shots. I get carried away with all the curves projects. Art is something we do because we
and lady parts, and it looks like a beautiful are driven to it and must do, whether society
naked-lady version of a Star Wars AT-ST walker. is ready or not.
Clearly, there was more in the
photo that could have been Tech Specs >
left in. Yet, my vision did not Camera: Nikon D7000
include these parts. I saw Lens: Nikon 17–55mm f/2.8 AF-S
something else and removed Effective focal length: 35mm / 52.5mm
the distracting bits from my Exposure: 1⁄250 second, at f/6.3, and ISO 100
view.
Photography in the Realm of Art There are a lot of peculiar ideas out there that can help you take
As you look at the world—its images and your own—ask questions your work into the realm of art. Some of these ideas are standard;
and seek answers. Consider the ideas presented in this book and shared others are unconventional ones that may one day be accepted as
elsewhere. Copy, experiment, and create. Learn the rules, and then do it customary. Our round world was once seen as flat. There was art in flat
your own way by creating with your own particular view. Doing it your worlds and round worlds both. And there is art in quantum, string,
own way is where technique turns to art. and bling worlds too.
Seek knowledge from others, but inoculate yourself against the nebu- Rather than striving to correct the weird ideas of others, learn
lous, limiting perspectives of anyone who thinks their way is the only way. how to see and create images with your vision for yourself. Don’t let
70 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Your own unique way is the only way to create your art. Art is where you cre- anyone just tell you no. When your images please you, your friends,
ate something unique and new. Anything else is only craft and technique. clients, or posterity, the weird ideas of others will sort themselves out.
Postproduction for this image was done in a couple minutes, entirely in Lightroom. I cropped it
according to my vision and converted the shot to black & white.
34 The Light and Dark of It
In this focused version, all the light comes from a north-facing The Answer Is in the Question
window on the left and bounced around from that point. Look at the light in these images. Can you tell
by studying what lighting was used? What ques-
tions are you asking yourself?
Learn to ask the right questions about an
image in your mind’s eye and your view of light
will become more keen. With dark surfaces
like leather, ask yourself about highlights. With
bright surfaces, ask yourself what you notice
about any shadows created and about the
brighter areas. Where is there less light or per-
haps light falloff? Do you see this white page,
or are you seeing the black print?
With shiny reflective surfaces, ask yourself
about the reflections you see of the actual light
source. When looking into eyes, we see reflec-
tions or catchlights. Catchlights give excellent
clues about the lights used for illumination.
Tech Specs > You might see a light’s shape, distance, or other
Camera: Nikon D7000
significant details within a catchlight.
Lens: Nikon 17–55mm f/2.8 AF-S @ 45mm
Objects, such as limbs, heel of shoes, noses,
Effective focal length: 67.5mm
Exposure: 1⁄30 second, f/4.5, and ISO 320
and textures cast shadows. Shadows give an
important indication of the light’s direction
72 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
and its qualities such as degree of softness or Study the light here. There was no real postproduction work, just an
hardness. The length of the transition areas out-of-focus image that delighted me. What are the visual cues to
between light and dark tells a great deal about the light? There is plenty here to indicate exactly how the image was
the light’s hardness or softness, which can created. What questions are you asking yourself to reverse engineer
indicate the combined effect of the light’s the light? Create a list of questions for yourself about light.
size and/or distance from the subject. If the
light-to-dark transitions are abrupt, the light something is evenly lit, it is either facing the
is harder. If the transitions are longer and light directly, or has several lights casting onto
smoother, the light is softer. it, or it is very far from the main light source.
Ask yourself how the light varies across an If the light falls off quickly, the light is either
image. Ask about how the color of light var- very close, or you are in a transition area of the
ies or is impacted by objects, light sources, and light beam, like at the edge of a flashlight beam,
things it shines on or reflects off. How fast does where the light itself is going from light to dark
the light fall off? quickly. Having the right questions will help
Falloff follows the inverse-square rule; the you see light more clearly.
closer to a source, the faster light falls off. If
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 73
35 Work to Get Expression
Expression From a Model a touch. Pull your hair back a touch, please?
The image Time to Feed is all about the model’s Great, now slowly lick your lips. Perfect, do
expression. The model was a very capable and it the same way, a little slower. Again, slower.
experienced traveling figure model and grand- Good. When I count to three, open your eyes
mother. Can you tell that by her expression? on three looking right at the camera.”
I’m giving directions on what emotion to
Pose and Expression give, plus how to pose, and what parts of the
While one may easily direct those motivated to face to tweak, like lips, eyes, and so on.
pose, getting expressions is its own related and
somewhat-separate art. As a rule, each genre Models Talk with Direction Only
of photography has its own tricks for getting Do not let your models start talking while you
expressions into a shot. For example, photogra- photograph. While I may have a model yell or
phers of children and furry pets may use squeaky make a vowel sound, talking ruins tons of oth-
noisemakers. Learn tricks and techniques that erwise great shots. Certain letters and sounds
work for you with your nude models.
The experienced and better-quality models
Tech Specs >
are easier to pose and get expressions from.
Camera: Canon 5D Mark III
After all, this is the model’s job. Young or
Lens: Canon 24–105 f/4L EF @ 82mm
inexperienced models often have the greatest
Exposure: 1⁄200 second, f/8, and ISO 100
difficulty with the expression part of their job.
Those models that do not learn to pose and be
expressive tend to get frustrated and burn out
quickly.
Actresses tend to be quite good at being
expressive, just give them some direction in
how you’d like them to act. For example, with
very experienced models, try saying, “Give me
an expression, great, now give me a different
one. Great. Another, please.”
Although you are getting random expres-
sions, it may work. More often you will have to
give the model something to go on. For exam-
ple, “Look pouty and sad. Okay that’s sad—
now make it a bit less sad. Relax your lower lip
A gridded strobe with barn doors was the main light. A
a little. Good, hold that, turn your nose 1 inch
large softbox was placed to the right of the model for
to your right. A bit less sad now. Perfect. Eyes rim light. A gridded strip on a boom was placed for the
back to the camera; nose up a half inch. Perfect. hair light. A 3.5x6-foot reflector was positioned on the
Now laugh. Close your eyes; open your mouth. left for fill. Another 3x6-foot reflector was positioned
Tilt your nose up 1 inch, nose right a half on the right for fill and gobo.
inch. Tilt your head toward your left shoulder
74 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
make for interesting
facial expressions on
various people. Try
having the model
slowly say the alpha-
bet until her mouth
makes a shape you
like. Having her
repeat that sound
sometimes works.
Remember, the letter
S has two sounds,
eh-ss. Which sound
makes for a better
look? You decide by
looking and trying.
This is why people
say cheese. It is not
for the ch part of
the sound, ch-eeee-
zz. Usually the long
vowel e sound or the
zzz is what the pho-
tographer tries for.
“Me” might work
just as well. “Love
meeeee,” holding
the e at the end may
give you the right
shot. The u sound
when saying, “Love
you,” gives a rounded
mouth that can be
expressive. “Hello”
and “Oh” shape
the mouth similarly,
but more open. The
advantage of a phrase
like “Love me” is it
has emotional content,
and so may make the expression more genuine. Actresses tend to be quite good
Use what works, continue to try new things, and
keep what works for your personal style.
at being expressive . . .
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 75
36 Implied Nudity
76 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Reasons for
Shooting
Implied Nudes
• Many great shots are
implied nudes.
• Often models charge extra
for full nudity and less for
implied.
• Implied nudes may be
acceptably shown, sold, and
enjoyed where full nudes
may not.
• Perhaps you or your model
is uncomfortable at this
time shooting a full nude.
Shoot them implied.
• The image, Bitter Sweet,
was a case where both
models were uncomfort-
able with full nudity at the
time of photographing.
This is often the case with
new models who may later
shoot nudes or may drop
the craft altogether.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 77
37 Graphic Art Conversion
The image before using Simplify software. The image before cropping.
A Wider Audience The above piece post-processed in Simplify
While the image On Edge (facing page, right) is the current screen background on my PC.
is a really sweet piece as finished, by putting it Where On Edge must be displayed discretely,
into Simplify, I have created a sexy headshot the digitally manipulated version is tame
version (above) that can play to a much wider enough for even my most conservative corpo-
audience as art, because it now looks like a rate portrait clients to view on my PC desktop.
painting or graphic illustration.
High Ceilings This model was nude except for the snake.
In choosing my home studio location, I was Yet, by shooting from above, there are many
looking for high ceilings and if possible, a angles where intimate areas are covered, and we
second-story landing. Why? High ceilings give get an implied-nude effect.
me lots of room to place lights above a model’s I like shooting so much from above that I
head. For example, a 6-foot tall model wear- usually have a 4-foot stepladder in the studio.
ing platform shoes, with a 4-foot tall softbox This can also help when my models are taller
placed 2 feet above her head requires a pretty than me, or just to get the perspective from
high ceiling. above when I desire it for my composition.
80 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Postproduction
Notice the differences
between the final image
and the image on the
facing page. The facing
page shows the image as
it was shot. Notice that
the conversion to duo-
tone and a slight turn
improved the composi-
tion to a great extent.
Also, I blurred the
periphery because the
original shot is too busy.
When the periphery was
sharp, the model’s legs
and the dark high-con-
trast back of her head
were pulling too much
attention, as were color
contrasts between her
skin and the snake. A
slight blur pulls us right
into her face. Now our
eyes go around along
the snake and then back
to her face.
Do not be afraid
to flip and rotate your
images in postpro-
duction. Often the
results will improve
your image. Rotation
changes how we read
a person’s expression.
Turning the image’s ori-
entation by rotating it
can at times hurt a good
expression or improve
a poor one. It can literally turn a frown upside
down. Blur, lighten or darken, and rotate. Do
what you must to create your most effective
final product.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 81
39 Corel Painter
82 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Giclée Printing of canvases. I have yet to finish experimenting
I have had both these pieces printed using the with adding textured clear coats on top of a
giclée process on canvas. Giclée is French for stabilized canvas. Oil paint can also be textured
ink jet and sounds so much more prestigious on the top layers of your print to create a true,
than it might otherwise. “Give a dog a good mixed-media art piece.
name” applies double to anything you do with
your photography. Treat it with respect, and
name it accordingly. The finished piece is cropped from the facing-page (left) image. The
The giclée process allows for printing on a new composition has given the piece a dream-like quality. The Corel
variety of substrates with different textures and piece has taken a limited-market-appeal nude and transformed it
finishes, such as watercolor papers and a variety into a surreal, fine-art piece that might hang anywhere.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 83
40 Postprocess Cheating
Illusion and the Truth finesse our medium, a certain truth does begin
The illusion of photography is that it is so life- to emerge; it is our truth, our own viewpoint
like that many consider photography to be a of the real world. Our compelling photograph
kind of ultimate truth of some type. The truth is no more or less a representation of the world
is, photography is not the truth. We photogra- than is Van Gogh’s Starry Night.
phers tell stories and hopefully create visually
engaging images using photography as a tool Artistic Truth
with which to craft our storytelling art. If we Ah, the good old days of photography, was it
all truth? In the days of film—from the very
beginning of photography—people edited
positives and negatives. They used scalpels,
erasers, pencils, and the like to process the
images on their negatives into what they
wanted. Artists smoothed skin and redrew
entire bits of the frame. The photographic
world has always finessed its images. They
worked the light while shooting and pro-
cessed the negatives to obtain a desired
contrast level. They dodged and burned select
areas in the frame controlling the contrast
and tone as they developed their prints.
Photography is art, both good art and wanna-
The main light was a strip box on a boom placed be art. But all of it finesses an artistic truth.
behind and above the model. Two reflectors gave fill
under and in front of the model. No Absolute Truth
If you are not post-processing because you fear
cheating on the “truth,” you may be cheating
yourself and your subjects. There is no abso-
lute truth in photography. There is only black
and white with shades of gray, usually with
some color casts.
In real life, no one has time to count a
woman’s wrinkles, unless you are going for
character, which may get you a handbag in
the face—well deserved. Smooth the lady’s
skin expertly for goodness sake. Do not just
take what the camera gives as certain fact.
84 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Shift colors, re-crop, remove distractions, and removed. Her skin was smoothed. Her con-
smooth skin. Try a different background. There trast adjusted. Dust spots on the backdrop
are literally an infinite variety of ways to convert were removed. The image was converted to a
one particular exposure into a black & white black & white expression. When the image was
image. Do not use the default factory setting, printed, my printer was hard pressed to print
unless that is your art. And then good luck to what I see on my screen. And if I use a different
you with the next software version when the printer, the image will print out differently yet
default factory settings change. again. Controlling my prints may be one reason
I may start printing my own photographs. Thus
Dynamic Truth printing is one more process I could control
If you get an image right using a Canon 5D to get the final image of my vision, and so one
Mark III, you may not like the way it looks more thing for me to learn and refine.
captured with a Nikon D800. Each camera
takes images differently. And any digital view-
ing or printing method will change the look The photographic world has
once again. There is no such thing as a photo
that captures the exact truth of who a person is. always finessed its images.
People are far too dynamic. Use all the tools at
your disposal and become an expert in post-
processing to come closer to capturing your
vision of the subject’s dynamic essence. Tech Specs >
Camera: Nikon D7000
My Process and Printing Lens: Nikon 17–55mm f/2.8 AF-S @ 24mm
Effective focal length: 36mm
In Voilà, Une Femme, the subject was cropped,
Exposure: 1⁄250 second, f/8, and ISO 100
rotated slightly, and the distracting elements
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 85
41 The Nude with Ultra-Wide-Angle Lenses
Ultra-Wide Lenses
Tech Specs >
I have always been drawn to shots taken with Camera: Nikon D7000
wide-and ultra-wide-angle lenses. I love how Lens: Tokina 11–16mm f/2.8 @ 11mm
perspective gets shifted, spatial relationships Effective focal length: 16.5mm
are exaggerated, and the world is turned into Exposure: 1⁄250 second, f/6.3, and ISO 100
shapes and forms that grab and hold my atten-
tion. Give me a wide-angle zoom, and you’ll
often find me cranking the zoom down to its
Distortions
While Photoshop and Lightroom may remove degrees of optical errors
like barrel distortion and chromatic aberration, perspective distortions
are a natural function of the ultra-wide itself which make things that are
closer to the lens seem much closer and larger, while things further away A gridded barn door strobe is just visible in the lower
right frame shining on the model’s leg and rear tire. A
are made to seem incredibly smaller. Creative use of this perspective
large softbox lit the model and side of bike at about the
shift is what ultra-wide lenses are all about. You will find depth of focus
model’s shoulder height.
to be extremely deep. It is not uncommon when shooting ultra-wide for
everything in the frame to be in focus. If you love bokeh, ultra-wide is
probably not for you, regardless of how fast your lens.
The wider your lens, the more things that are closer to the lens seem widest possible setting. Truly, I love creating
a great deal closer and larger than we normally perceive them, while nudes with these specialty lenses, which can and
things farther from the lens seem drastically diminished in size and much do get me into trouble.
farther away than they actually are. Relationships between any lines in A general and arguable guideline for where
your frame will become more distorted. For example, railroad tracks will ultra-wide begins on full frame cameras is
seem to converge much sooner when viewed through a wide-angle lens. 20mm. Below 20mm, perspective begins
Any tilting up and down or rotation of the lens tends to become glaringly to distort perceptively in almost all images.
visible in compositions, and so must be considered and controlled. To Photographs of people taken at these extreme
shoot wide angle, get close to an interesting compositional element, like widths tend to have distorted looks, which some
the yellow engine parts, that may benefit from increased emphasis and find interesting and others find disturbing. Many
frame your shot around it. Shooting this way, shifts of even a half inch in ultra-wide-angle shots will have levels of perspec-
any direction are often extremely significant. If you are like me and you tive shift and distortion that are neither intended
like shifted perspectives, you will fall in love with how ultra-wide lenses nor acceptable. Care must be taken. Bad shots
will visually transform your world. may be just too unintentionally freakish.
86 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
This image was taken at an effective focal length of 16.5mm. Notice how much larger the model’s hand is than her face. If her face had been close
to the camera, she might have appeared like a scary clown with a huge nose. She might not have been at all happy to see that!
42 The Nude in Wide-Angle Images
88 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Mindful Composition up and used a longer lens, her legs would have
The relationships between strong lines become looked shorter, and less of the background
distorted by tilts and rotations when using a would have made it into the shot. Also the
wide-angle lens. So be mindful when compos- depth of field would have been somewhat shal-
ing. More of the background ends up getting lower with a similar exposure.
into the frame when using a wide-angle lens. Wide-angle lenses have a significant place in
Your backgrounds will be more in focus, com- shooting nude images. There are ways to flatter
pounded by a slightly increased depth of field. or de-emphasize forms through the subtle per-
When working in confined places, the wide- spective shifts these handy focal lengths provide.
angle will often be the only way to fit the shot Just remember: what can work for you can work
in; I do not always have the room to back up. against you. You can just as easily make someone
However, with this shot, I had been able to fatter as thinner if you are not careful. Closer to
back up to fill the frame with the model’s com- the lens is a bit bigger than normal, and contrari-
plete figure without cropping. If I had backed wise. Use this knowledge in framing your poses.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 89
43 The Nude Through the Normal Lens
90 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
the 2-stop higher speed of a
50mm f/1.4 versus an image
stabilized 70–200mm f/2.8.
One definite advantage
of this focal length is cheap,
crystal clear glass. For about
$400, you can get a 50mm
f/1.4, often the sharpest lens
in your bag, and it’s small
and lightweight, too. But if
you are shooting crop sen-
sor, normal for you will be
35mm. These can be pricey.
Zooms also cover this
range; I just do not seem to
live there much, shooting
either wider or longer. There
just is not that much I can
get with a 50mm that I can-
not get with a 70–200mm at
70mm and with a bit less per-
spective distortion. One thing
I can get is closer. 50mm
primes focus closer than long
zooms, generally. Even using
the 24–105mm f/4 Canon
Macro, I shoot usually wider
or longer, not normal.
One thing to watch for is
perspective shift with a nor-
mal lens. If you take a close-
up of a face, it will make a
nose freakishly larger. In a
3⁄4 cropped shot, perspective
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 91
44 The Nude in Moderate Telephoto
Moderate Telephoto Lens For Portraits 65–135mm on a full frame 35mm camera and
I love the medium—also called moder- is very effective for portraiture.
ate—telephoto-lens perspectives for nudes. Your eyes typically see faces from several feet
The range of moderate telephoto lenses is away. As you get very close to a face, about six
inches, you will see a bulbous nose, because it
is closer to your eyes than other facial features.
About 75–135mm is a perfect From a greater distance, the face will fill only the
central part of your field of view (or vision), and
perspective compression range all the features will have a similar compression at
this distance causing no discernible distortion.
for head and head-and-shoulders
type portraits. Distance and Distortion
About 75–135mm is a perfect perspective
compression range for head and head-and-
shoulders type portraits. The exact focal length
is not as important as the amount of the shot
you include in your frame. If it’s just a head,
you may wish to be a bit longer, if it’s head and
shoulders, you could go a bit wider, or back
up more if shooting longer telephoto. When
shooting, it may become uncomfortable for
the photographer to get right in the model’s
face, as her personal space may be invaded
too closely. However, if you back up too far,
it becomes difficult for subjects to remain in
connection with you or even to hear your
direction. Choose distance, framing, and focal
length, accordingly.
Lens Advice
Notice the catchlight from a rig of four fluorescent lighting A 70–200mm zoom covers the portrait range
fixtures arranged in a square a few feet in front of model and perfectly. 100mm or 105mm macros can
through which I’m shooting. allow you to take portraits and come in very
close if you wish to focus on just a feature.
Sometimes, though, macro lenses focus too
Tech Specs >
Camera: Nikon D90 slowly, and this may become a distraction. Do
Lens: Nikon 18–200mm f/3.5–5.6 VRI @ 82mm not use a macro as your only lens in this range
Effective focal length: 123mm unless you have to. 85mm primes are great
Exposure: 1⁄125 second, f/5, and ISO 200 lenses for portraits, or 50mm primes on crop
sensor bodies work great.
92 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
About Bokeh Even at f/5, you can see this lens was creating a moderate
Bokeh is an intentional out-of-focus or blur bokeh—throwing the area below her ear into soft focus
quality that is rendered differently with each due to the 82mm focal length (123mm effective), while
lens model and setting. The bokeh generally maintaining perfect clarity in the eyes. The same shot
improves with increased focal length and with framing and exposure on a full-frame would have been at
123mm and would have had less depth of field and more
wider apertures. Lenses like the 85mm f/1.4
bokeh.
and 70–200mm f/2.8 give great out-of-focus
areas, thus eliminating distracting background
or foreground elements in the frame. Shooting Bokeh is an intentional out-
wider or slower increases depth of focus, of-focus or blur quality that is
increasing the potential for distracting in-focus
elements. Take a model outside, shoot with a rendered differently with each
long lenses wide open and you get the model
swimming in a buttery sea of out-of-focus
lens model and setting.
elements.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 93
45 Through a 135–300mm Telephoto Lens
Telephoto and Super Telephoto Lenses more pronounced out-of-doors where there are
As the lens gets longer, into the 135mm– near and far compositional elements that may
300mm full frame effective focal lengths, we be noticeably compressed.
are getting into real telephoto lenses. At the
portrait lengths of telephoto, we have a sort Lens Differences
of normal flatness of compressions. In true Zoom lenses are particular and may be sharper
telephoto, photographically we are starting to at certain focal lengths. This will vary lens to
look through telescopes, and magnification lens. In general, you get more camera shake
becomes significant. with longer telephoto lenses, so you may need
When you get to super telephoto lenses, like to steady your shot more, or shoot wider if you
1000mm, you can photograph a model next can, or use a short duration flash, and so on.
to the moon, and the moon will appear to be It is usually fine to use long telephoto
the size of a beach ball. These heavy telephoto wherever you can, especially to bokeh out
lenses effectively bring the moon closer to the backgrounds. The bokeh increases with focal
model visually. With intermediate telephoto length for any given aperture. So you get more
ranges, the effect is present, but subtle with the bokeh at 200mm f/2.8 than at 70mm f/2.8
nude, particularly the studio nude. It becomes telephoto. You can blur backgrounds and body
parts, including those areas that might have
Tech Specs > wrinkles very readily. Try planning this into
Camera: Nikon D7000 your shots and poses. You will love the effect,
Lens: Nikon 70–200mm f/2.8 AF-S VR2 @ 145mm and so will your subjects.
Effective focal length: 217.5mm You can pretty much do with a long
Exposure: 1⁄200 second, f/4, and ISO 100 telephoto in nude images what you do with
portrait length telephotos. The angle of view
is different, so the amount of background
gets less and less as lenses get longer. Adjust
your framing accordingly.
94 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Look closely. How far is it
from the fur in the
foreground to the wall in
the back? Can you even
tell? If you guessed about
six feet, you are correct.
Perceptually, it appears
more like a few feet. The
model’s body gives some
clue. Without the visual
clue of the model, the
telephoto compression is
pretty impressive.
Zoom lenses are particular and may be sharper at certain focal lengths.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 95
46 Photographing Darker Skin
Cropping allows
eyes to focus on
the subject
without
distracting
details.
Alternate shot
before cropping.
96 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
Crop to Eliminate
Distracting Elements
These two alternate images (facing
page) are actually the same image
with different cropping applied,
and was shot at 70mm(105mm
effective). The image on the left
gives you a good impression of the
available light in this empty office
loft. Lots of white walls and large
windows streamed light primarily
from the model’s back, right, and
front. The image on the right
shows what happens when we
crop down and eliminate some dis-
tracting elements from the frame.
Unfortunately, the viewer’s eyes
are drawn away from the model to
the luminous windows and white
walls, and we are not drawn to the
details in her darker tones.
In the final image (right), we
really begin to see the model.
What we see are the highlights of
her lips and legs, her downturned
eyes, the the sheen in her hair, and
so on.
Visual Cues
When we photograph darker-skinned subjects
(see section 46) it is the whites or shine that
gives us our visual cues on form. When photo-
graphing whites, it is the dark areas or shadows
that give us our visual contexts and cues. Any
especially dark areas, if misplaced in your com-
position, can quickly become distractions or
confuse the eye.
98 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
We are artists. We must put in and remove White tones seem practically nonexistent in this
what is needed or not needed to make our image. When was the last time you were aware
images impactful. The only truth is the reality of the white of this page? Most of us were read-
we present. Confusion is not useful in this pre- ing the dark-lettered words or staring at the
sentation. Confusing and detracting elements images. That is how white on white works, we
diminish an image’s ability to powerfully hold see the darks and darker areas.
and move the viewer’s eye. When shooting white-skinned subjects on
white backgrounds, remember it will be the
Drawing the Viewer’s Eyes dark tones that draw the eyes. Before you
On the final image, do your eyes gravitate shoot, eliminate any dark areas that distract the
toward the dark areas of the subject’s face, eyes, eyes from your intended subject by staging,
and hair? Perhaps they follow the heart-shaped lighting, and posing accordingly. Do likewise
dark curves of the subject’s thighs and buttocks, after you shoot, by processing and cropping.
then rounding the buttocks get drawn back into
the subject’s hair and eyes? Mine do.
We are in effect being drawn repeatedly to
dark areas of the frame and being led around
by the grayish lines back to our subject’s face.
ALTERNATIVE NUDES 99
48 Directing Eyes with Vignettes
This Image
Many photographs we see in magazines are flat Two 30x60-inch softboxes were set at eye level.
lit or close to flat lit. What we often miss is the A wall was behind the model.
subtle nuances where the lighting is not quite
as flat. For example, the lighting ratio for this
image is flat. It is one to one; it is the same Tech Specs >
strength on the right as on the left. Camera: Nikon D7000
I was experimenting with this lighting setup Lens: Nikon 70–200mm f/2.8 AF-S VR2 @ 70mm
Effective focal length: 105mm
because I liked how the catchlights appear like
Exposure: 1⁄200 second, f/4, and ISO 100
cat eyes in the iris. Still, because of how the
lights are placed, close to the subject, there
is some falloff. So there are shadows under Image before cropping and desaturation.
her, and the light falls off behind her giving
some separation from the background. I have
cropped her tighter for my final image, because
I found the lower elements less than flatter-
ing, while truly being enamored by the subtle
beauty and juxtaposition of the textures of dark
hair with the light fur framing the model’s very
symmetrical face.
Photography Is Chiaroscuro
Chiaroscuro is an artful use of light and shad-
ows on surfaces. One may by planning lighting
or retouching employ chiaroscuro to give the
effect of light and shadow even on flat surfaces,
creating or heightening impressions of depth
and form. All photographs employ a form of
chiaroscuro. Photographs are two-dimensional
surfaces where light and shadows interplay to
give impressions of form.
The deliberate use of chiaroscuro gives
The lighting was the same as the image in
depth and meaning in portraits and pho-
section 49, except that the right softbox was
tographs. Photography is, after all, an art
powered down to create more shadows.
using light and dark elements to deliver our
message. Photography means light drawing.
Light is used to draw on darkness; photogra-
phy is chiaroscuro. Lighting Is the First Step
If we sculpt first via our lighting techniques, we spend less
Form, Detail, Character, and Drama time post-processing. When planning to light your subjects,
Perfect faces may be flat lit, but to give faces consider chiaroscuro. Then use post-processing to enhance
more character and form, one must create and adjust further as needed. Lighting is the first step in
shadows. Breasts lit with chiaroscuro have more using the effects of light and shadow to sculpt our subjects.
roundness; faces have more dimension. A little Chiaroscuro is the antithesis of flat lighting (section 49).
goes a long way. Subtle shadows give a feeling Flat lighting removes the details of depth and indications of
of form. Darker shadows can be used to effec- curvature. To have a feeling of depth, there must be a light
tively mask details, although used too much side and a dark side of a subject, regardless of the tonal
and the image may become theatrical. With values variation of individual details within a side.
figure studies, often very large contrasts of light Imagine a solid filled drawing of a ball. If the ball were
just black, or just white, or just gray it does not look like
and dark sides are desired.
a ball, it looks like a spot. Now give the ball some gradual
shading along lines of curvature, with increasing darkness
Chiaroscuro in This Image
on one side and increasing light on the other, and now you
In this image, chiaroscuro thins the model’s face have a ball, curvature, or sphere. This same principle holds
and lends mystery to her expression and to her true for faces and limbs. Gradation of light to dark creates
roundness of form.
Tech Specs > Any side of a subject that is lighter and brighter than an
Camera: Nikon D7000 adjacent area appears as being closer to the viewer, and the
Lens: Nikon 70–200mm f/2.8 AF-S VR2 @ 102mm darker lit areas will seem to be receding. Thus, subjects are
Effective focal length: 153mm given form. The viewers “know” the subject has form because
Exposure: 1⁄200 second, f/4, and ISO 100 it appears to reflect light and cast shadows.
The Setup
The assistant in the shower stall held a shower spray low and
The model’s friend was in the large walk-in
sprayed up toward the model. An AlienBees B800 was placed
shower where she was being photographed.
low to catch water droplets. A vertical strip box placed low
He was spraying her with water from below. was the main light that bounced off the left shower wall.
Spraying from above created a situation in
which her makeup was running and she had
great difficulty keeping her eyes open.
Recall from section 46, on dark-skinned
subjects, that we photographed the shine and
highlights on darker skin. Here the lighting
was most effective when bounced off the many
white surfaces of shower stalls. This created a
dance of highlights on the model’s wet skin
to photograph. The airborne water droplets
106 ALTERNATIVE NUDES
also needed to be deliberately lit. A light was
arranged low to the ground which lit the water
spray coming from the handheld nozzle. Flash duration was the primary factor in freezing water droplet
If the lighting had not been going directly motion. Some droplets above the model’s thighs still look a bit
through the water drops, they would have like streaks, as flash durations for AlienBees are relatively long,
become fairly invisible and we would have lost and so would not fully stop motion.
the point of having gone
through all the trouble of
trying to film a model in a
non-staged shower scene.
Cropping
Cropping helps alleviate
issues like runny makeup,
blinking eyes, and unsightly
backgrounds that are com-
mon to the typically small
space of showers. Cropping
also helped to minimize
distinct distracting shadows
cast on the shower walls by
the lighting’s angle, which
was selected not so much
to best light the model but
primarily for safety sake and
to light the water droplets.
This Image
Spidy Legs was inspired when I saw a really hot One softbox was placed high. One strobe was placed
pair of shoes on a model, and I persuaded a low to bounce off the white wall to camera right.
second model to buy the same style of shoes.
This was a concept-driven shoot from the start.
The concept was to create an image with two
beautiful models wearing nothing but the same
style of sexy shoes.
Having a concept before starting can make
shooting go more smoothly. The concept will help
you in directing your crew by providing a unifying
theme and context for your team’s efforts.
Prop-Inspired Concept
I envy those among us who are concept kings and queens. My usual
method is to find the beauty in whatever is facing me, and then
develop it with light, lens and team work until something emerges
which thrills me.
Some of us are better at coming up with cool concepts than others.
It need not be that tricky, if your concept is simply a prop and a nude
model. You can take any prop—and anything is a prop—and use that
prop as a contextual point for your shoot.
For example, go into your closet, take out several clothing acces-
sories, pick one, and think of how that prop might look great with
a nude. If the first prop you grab does not work for you, go onto the
next, and the next until you decide on one. Then shoot with it. It can
be easy to find a prop and build a shoot around it. Hats, belts, wigs,
shoes, scarves, telephones, and any number of other items can make
really cool props.
A B C
reflector was used as a flag over the main light.
The model’s right breast, hand, and arm are
very close to this light. While I like the skim of
the light across her body and the fall-off, these
areas would be overly lit without the flag. The
addition of this
small flag made a
huge difference.
Small Changes
Other small
changes make a
huge difference,
too. While the final
image (right) is the
keeper, any small
shift in lighting or
the model’s move-
ment or position
makes a huge dif-
ference in the final
look.
Getting to this
point took lots
of adjustments
in lighting and
positioning of the
model. I was con-
stantly giving direc-
tion to the model
while monitoring
my results. Any
small movement or
adjustment must
be controlled and
directed. Typically,
this is a continual
process during a
session: position-
ing, monitor-
ing, controlling,
directing, and
repositioning.
55 Drawing the Eyes: Toes
Study the Eye Movement Did you find your eyes following along the
Take a moment and study the final image to legs of the model, down to the front quarter
discover what draws your eyes. If you are a little panel, back around the top of the passenger
puzzled, pull your eyes away, and come back to door, along the top of the back seat, and then
the image. Pay attention to the movement of back to the legs and shoes?
your eyes and where they come to rest, enter,
or leave. This is a good practice whenever view- Color and Desaturation
ing any image or art piece. Discover what eye movement you experience
when looking at image A. I find it a rather
uninteresting shot. The eyes move somewhat
Creating Balance indecisively between the brightly lit driver’s
When you create a composition that draws the eyes into a particular seat and perhaps to the left rear seat or possibly
area, you must consider how to keep them moving through the frame the shoes. I believe this shot loses its punch in
and not allow them to get tired or bored. For example, the red of black & white, image B.
the car body’s right-front quarter panel, with some red kicks from a
gelled strobe, helps pull the eyes down briefly to the front of the car
and keeps them moving, thus generating additional interest within Tech Specs >
the image. By putting eye-drawing elements into different parts of Camera: Nikon D90
your frame, you can create balance. Remember this trick if you find Lens: Nikon 18–200mm f/3.5–5.6 VR2 @ 24mm
your eyes getting stuck in an area of your image. Effective focal length: 36mm
Exposure: 1⁄125 second, f/9, and ISO 200
INDEX 127
“The images exude a unification of power—power in
womanhood, power in sexuality, and power in the
message conveyed by the artist.”
—Dr. Victoria Hartman, director, Erotic Heritage Museum
Amherst Media
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