The Australian magazine for knitting and more Volume 12

Issue 28
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9.95 AUD
$
15.00 NZ

®
Knit • Felt • Crochet • Spin

Working Circularly
& so much more

$
9.95 (Aus) incl GST
$
15.00 (NZ) incl GST
www.artwearpublications.com.au
28

lic
Hyperbo
771832 978003

LACE
SCARF
Socks • Baby Hat • Childs Jacket • Wrap • Young Design Students
9

Yarn28 cover.indd 1 10/17/2012 7:41:30 AM

 ASHFORD
COUNTRY SPINNER
Completely redesigned!
2
Great new features with the freedom
to spin and ply an even wider range of
fun art, textured or bulky yarns!

• Huge 27mm - 1 ⅛” flyer orifice

for really thick yarns
• 3 speed bobbin with easy 3, 4
& 5:1 ratios and capacity of up
to 1kg
• Nylon conrod universal joints
for smooth treadling
• Treadle boards now further
apart for greater comfort
• Maintenance-free
Polyurethane hinges for
effortless treadling
• Built-in Lazy Kate
• Choose natural timber ready to
finish or clear lacquer finish

Additional bobbins
available

To find out more about our spinning wheels, weaving looms, carders and fibres contact your local Ashford retailer
New South Wales Petlins Spinning & Weaving South Australia Jolly Jumbuk Country Craft Centre Hands Ashford NZ Ltd
Past Times Country Crafts 17 Cavell Ave bellatextiles P O Box 425 5 Normans Road
583 Snowy Mountains Hwy Rhodes, NSW 2138 Cnr Greenfield Road & Fowler Street Bairnsdale, VIC 3875 Elmwood, Christchurch
Cooma, NSW 2630 Ph. 02 9736 1501 Seaview Downs, SA 5049 Ph. 03 5152 4600 Ph/Fax 03 355 9099
Ph. 1 800 026 397 [email protected] Ph. 08 8296 3428 [email protected] [email protected]
[email protected] www.petlins.com [email protected] www.jumbukwool.com.au www.handscraftstore.com
www.pasttimes.com.au
Glenora Weaving & Wools Tasmania Spindrift Weaving Studio Ashford Craftshop
Rainbow Wools (Carol Olde) P O Box 9 The Wool Shop 273 Whorouly/Bowmans Road 427 West Street
Ph. 04 2860 9140 Gerringong, NSW 2534 58 Main Road Whorouly, VIC 3735 Ashburton, Canterbury 7700
[email protected] Ph. 02 4234 0422 Moonah, TAS 7009 Ph. 03 5727 1528 Ph. 0800 274 3673
www.rainbowwools.com [email protected] Ph. 03 6278 1800 [email protected] Fax 03 308 3159
www.glenoraweaving.com.au Fax 03 6278 1808 www.spindriftweave.com [email protected]
Spinners Haven [email protected] www.ashfordcraftshop.co.nz
12 Laurence Aveune Coramba Fibrecrafts Western Australia
Armidale, NSW 2350 247C Orara Way Victoria Bilby Yarns Knit World Mail Order
Ph. 04 2864 2966 A/h. 02 6772 8795 Coffs Harbour, NSW 2450 Wondoflex Yarn Craft Centre Cnr Harrison & Hilary Streets Ph. 04 586 4530
[email protected] Ph. 02 6654 4435 1353 Malvern Road Willagee, WA 6156 Fax 04 586 4531
[email protected] Malvern, VIC 3144 Ph. 08 9331 8818 [email protected]
Virginia Farm Woolworks Ph. 03 9822 6231 [email protected] www.knitworld.co.nz
122 Annangrove Road Spun Out [email protected] www.bilbyyarns.com
Annangrove, NSW 2156 P O Box 310 www.wondoflex.com.au The Yarn Queen
Ph. 02 9654 1069 Gulgong, NSW 2852 Online Knitting Store
[email protected] New Zealand
Ph. 02 6374 1170 Belfair Sheep, Wool & Handcrafts Servicing all New Zealand
www.virginiafarmwoolworks.com.au Fax 02 6374 1170 930 Baxter/Tooradin Road
Woolrae Studio
Ph. 07 376 5412
[email protected] Pearcedale, VIC 3912 534 Kihikihi Road
[email protected]
Ph. 03 5978 6221 Te Awamutu, Waikato 3800 www.theyarnqueen.co.nz
Queensland Ph. 027 4608 370
Craft Haven Woolsy Trading Post Ph. 07 870 5340
Shop 2, 4 Swan Lane 142 Shannon Ave [email protected]
Mudgeeraba, QLD 4213 Manifold Heights
Ph. 07 5525 3222 Geelong, Vic 3218
Fax 07 5530 7999 Ph. 03 5222 1571

Ashford Handicrafts Ltd, Ashburton, New Zealand

www.ashford.co.nz

Yarn28 IFC.indd 1 10/17/2012 7:42:25 AM

 What’s INSIDE!
A good idea begins with a good yarn

YARN Issue 28/December 2012

®

Co-editors and publishers

Kylie Albanese, Michelle Moriarty.

Consulting editors
Rose Long, Glenda Brown, Wendy Knight

Photography
Article photography by contributor unless
otherwise started; Victoria from Essence
Images pages 10, bottom page 12, 13-28,
37-38, 43-47 www.essence-images.com.au

Contributors
Liz Haywood, Jude Skeers, Bernadette Chad,
Melissa Deutsch Scott, Liz Gemmell,
and more . . .
Amy Scott-Young, Catherine Wallace,
Robynn Ross, SWTC team, Lorraine Schwartz,

contents
Annie Studholme, AWI plus students,
Michelle Moriarty, Mae Eastman, Carmel Casey issue 8
Layout & design: W Cast on W Patterns continued
Kylie Albanese and Michelle Moriarty
Editors’ notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Foot Thongs Amy Scott-Young. . . . . . . . . . . 13
Admin assistant Letters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Relax Cardigan Melissa Deutsch Scott . . . . . . 18
Dawn Bordin
Book Reviews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Contredanse Socks Catherine Wallace . . . . 22
Advertising sales Circular Medallion Wrap Jude Skeers . . . . . 26
& marketing: Michelle Moriarty
W Columns Socks a la carte Colorwork (featuring Melissa’s Mock
[email protected]
02 6687 4002 Techniques to Try (3 different methods for turning a Miters, Fishscales & Dutch Striped Heel with Toesies Toe)
sock heel plus I-cord) Liz Haywood . . . . . . . 6 Jonelle Raffino & Katherine Cade. . . . . 30
Published in Australia
Printed in China by Everbest Printing Co Ltd Tech Talk: What’s in a name? Jude Skeers . . . . 48 Baby’s Cotton Sunhat Lorraine Schwartz . . 38
Australian distribution by IPS Child Medallion short sleeve jacket
www.publicationsolutions.com.au W Features
New Zealand distribution by CRAFTCO Limited
Jude Skeers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Tel:+64 (0)3 963 0649 Chance of a Lifetime for Ashford
USA and Canada distribution Annie Studholme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 W Cast off
by DISTICOR Magazine Distribution Services
Tel: +905 619 6565 Working with Students Bernadette Chad . . . . . . 34 Yarn Related Yumminess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
UK distribution by Manor House & Pansing IMM Australia’s Young Talent YARN Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Tel +44 (0) 1672 514 288
ArtWear team + students . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Stitch Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Rest of world distribution by Pansing IMM
Tel +61 (02) 8304 5900 Logo Listings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

Please address comments, letters, and inquiries to

W Patterns YARN Classifieds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
[email protected] Hyperbolic Lace Scarf Liz Gemmell . . . . . . . . . 10 Advertisers’ Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
or write to YARN Magazine, PO Box 238,
Lennox Head NSW 2478. Ph: +61 2 6687 4002

All contents © YARN Magazine 2012. The

purchaser of this magazine may make a single copy
of any pattern contained within for personal use
only. Please do not give copies to your friends.
Contact us to talk about reproductions, including
intended sale of items made from patterns within
this magazine. If you have any questions about Acknowledgements Thank you to our lovely models Alannah, Chloe, Julian, Hailey, Imarni and especially to Miriam, who
obtaining permissions or about this policy, please has just emerged after battling breast cancer; to Victoria for her beautiful photography; to the contributors for their great
contact us at the address above.
work; to our tech editors for their superior mathematical skills and to our readers and subscribers for supporting an Australian
YARN ® is a registered trademark of Yarn independent publication.
Magazine, Lennox Head, New South Wales.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 1

Y28 contents pg 1.indd 1 10/17/2012 11:47:47 AM

 editors' notes
the girls!
It is hard to believe that 2012 is coming to an end and we are already up to issue 28. Michelle and
Kylie have been publishing Yarn for 5 years now (plus Felt for four years, Embellish for three years
and Textile Fibre Forum for just over 1 year). It is time to share the Yarn love!
Just over five months ago Michelle and Kylie changed the structure of ArtWear Publications from
a casual Partnership structure to a fully-fledged Company structure. We welcomed a select number
of private shareholders, who will be bringing fresh energy, enthusiasm and a combined depth of
Michelle knowledge that would be difficult to surpass. Already 2013 is shaping up to be a great year. As part
of this ongoing adventure, we would like to invite all knit and crochet designers, who would like to be
published, to submit their design proposals via email to [email protected] or
via snail mail to ArtWear Publications, PO Box 238, Lennox Head, NSW, 2478. We are after original,
technically interesting designs for Yarn Magazine and simpler designs for an upcoming bookazine.
Now is your chance to be a part of the Australian publishing world, without the headache or financial
strain of trying to go it alone.
We had a lot of fun getting the designs together for this issue. We wanted a mix of sunny summer,
Kylie but with a sprinkling of all the seasons, to keep your hooks and needles humming. It is difficult for us
to pick a favourite. The Hyperbolic Lace Scarf by Liz Gemmell comes in a choice of wool or silk, with
instructions for both. It is feminine, sexy and deliciously hypnotic to knit. Never fear keen crocheters,
the Foot Thongs by Amy Scott-Young come with two options and a very well thought out attachment method. This
could be the start of a footwear revolution!
The Relax Cardigan by Melissa Deutsch Scott is one of those designs that you will keep coming back to. It is
perfect for Spring and Autumn, or with a shawl pin, as a cover up in Winter. As an added bonus it features a range of
different pocket techniques, to keep your interest piqued. The Contredanse Socks by Catherine Wallace are divine
and sure to get sock knitters everywhere salivating (the colour work is stunning). Summer being perfect for sock
knitting, we also have an extract from SOCKS a la carte Colorwork in which we have featured the Striped Dutch Heel
with Toesies Toe, Fishscales and Melissa’s Mock Miters. It is our favourite book from the a la carte series, where you
mix and match the different sock components to create your own design from the directions provided.
Lorraine Schwartz has provided a crocheted Baby Cotton Sunhat (in two sizes), while Jude Skeers put the pedal to
the metal and designed an adult sized Circular Medallion Wrap and a child sized Circular Medallion (short sleeve)
Jacket. These designs show how to use two totally different types of coloured yarn to perfection—the long colour
transitions of Zauberball in the adult design and the shorter, hand dyed variegated colours of Waratah Fibres yarn
in the child jacket. A big debt of thanks to Jude for working with us and showing the Zauberball colour transitions
to perfection. We have received many emails about this yarn, from people who have purchased it but do not know
what to make with it. Problem solved.
And for all of the dedicated alpaca owners across this wonderful country, we have an exciting opportunity coming
up for you. Contact Michelle asap for more details on [email protected]
With Love
—Michelle & Kylie

2 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 2 10/17/2012 7:48:56 AM

 letters

In response to our question, “Who is your In response to our question, “What is your
favourite designer and why?” favourite technique and why?”
I would like to wax lyrical about the lovely Ysolda My favourite knitting method or technique helps me
Teague. I could be really obvious and say it’s because to flatten an otherwise curled alpaca scarf. In my knit
she‘s funky and fun, which of course she is, or because rows, I use a larger needle in the left hand than the
she happily exhibits her work on all different size right, and reverse this for the purl rows with the larger
models which is so marvellous, but that would only needle in the right hand. One of my projects uses 4.5mm
scratch the surface.  and 5.5mm needles respectively. The effect is more
I love her work because she reintroduces us to pronounced with alpaca, but of course unnecessary
traditional methods such as Icelandic and Fair Isle, in with socks as we want the rounded (curled) shape!
a way that isn‘t old-fashioned or retro, but in a familiar —Jill Rowling
way that makes us want to wear them. This is how
An extract from a series of communications
my Mum should have introduced sweaters to me, as
about “opportunities”
something delightful and flattering. Thanks again for your ongoing communication and
Every design that she produces shows how much connection with my insatiable crafting interest.
she loves traditional knitting and also how to flatter an I‘m saddened to inform you that we no longer have an
individual. That‘s Love with a capital L. extensive haberdashery/yarn store other than a cheaper
If EZ is the older lady who taught us all how to knit, substitute outlet where cheaper alternative yarns are
Ysolda is the fun niece that you would go yarn shopping available. Although I am still employed full time at age
with and come away from the experience not only seventy, I do have an ever present preoccupation with
motivated but also knowing that the pattern you chose my craft interest. I pray for the day when my family
would look fantastic on you. (overseas) will be here in Australia with me so that in
—Jill Bloomfield time I can retire from my job so that I can start doing
the things I want to do, not the things I must do for
In response to our question, “What do you most someone else. In the meantime it‘s a case of doing the
often knit and why?” craft work as a means of redeeming some measure of
Congratulations Michelle & Kylie for all you’ve achieved. sanity in our ever increasingly complex world.
I love the energy and reality of your Yarn publications. —Ray Knight
Not surprisingly, it’s expanded to a bigger business! So I
wish you well with the future changes. Ed’s Note—Thank you everyone for your terrific
I knit small items as gifts because each project responses. What the heck, we’ll send books to you all!
is small and can be finished soon. Items include For the next issue, we would be grateful for any feedback
babywear, vests, hats/berets, scarves, gloves and relating to vests. Do you like them with an opened front
novelty items like mug hugs. or closed? Do you prefer them with colourwork or texture
Thank you for contributing so greatly to my or lace (for more seasonal wear)?
knitting revival.
—Mary Wheaton

In response to our question, “What do you most PUBLICATIONS

often knit and why?”
Over the years I have accumulated a lot of yarn (as we
all do). Moving into a retirement village I had to do
something with this yarn. As I enjoy crocheting I am
using the yarn by making crocheted rugs to give away. I
am a member of 3 different car clubs and have donated
rugs which are raffled and proceeds go to the club for the
running of rallies etc. They are also donated to nursing
Socks, socks and more SOCKS
homes. There is one problem—the stash doesn’t appear
to be getting less. I believe that the fairies are going in at
night and adding to the stash so that it doesn’t go down.
Not sure if I will live long enough to see the bottom of
the Container (s)!

10
I love the magazine, keep up the good work.
—Pam Jowett $ Downloadable PDF online
www.artwearpublications.com.au
Includes: Bushwalker socks,
Lone heart heel socks,
A sock for Helen + more!

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 3

Y28 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 3 10/17/2012 7:49:21 AM

 reviews

Knitting Basics foot combination to tie the design elements together. It

is like a recipe book for creating your preferred styles
Melody Lord (Murdoch Books/
and patterns, with easy-to-follow instructions, so that
Can Do Books)
you can make your own individual socks. Pretty clever,
ISBN: 9781742664347 RRP $44.99
don’t you think?
W ritten for the beginner,
Knitting Basics is a
beautifully presented and
All of the socks have been worked so that you either
cast on or end up with 64sts at completion of the cuff,
then work the body with close to 64sts (instructions
stylised book—almost an
for arriving at this amount of sts are included at the
encyclopaedia of knitting know-how. Extra hints
beginning of each body pattern). The same follows for
are highlighted, with the page number and chapter
the heel, so that you slip easily and seamlessly between
identifications artistically executed for ease of reading.
sock sections. No mathematics or head scratching
Knitting Basics explains how to organise materials, has
required. Yah!
a comprehensive list of tools and accessories, shows
Techniques include lace, bobbles, cables, mock mitres,
how to choose and read a pattern, how to begin knitting
slipped stitch, Fair Isle, jacquard, braids, beading, short
and how to increase and decrease. It illustrates several
rows, ridges, stripes and the list goes on. With a choice
ways to cast off and make buttonholes and shares
of 20 cuff patterns, 20 body patterns, 7 heel patterns
good troubleshooting hints and strategies for looking
and 7 toe patterns, the combinations are endless. When
professional, such as picking up dropped stitches and
you consider how many hundreds of combinations
blocking a finished piece.
you could work through, the book represents excellent
There are 15 chapters, many of which include a
value. Have a look at page 30 in this issue for our sock
project to complete such as a retro coffee cosy, felted
combination choices (patterns provided), then cast on
handbag, legwarmers, scoodie and purse. The pattern
and enjoy your own special socks.
library photos in Chapter 7 look like little textured
—Michelle Moriarty
windows and the instructions next to them are clearly
set out, from simple stripes to gansey (jersey) ladders.
Melody included instructions to make decorations Knit Vintage
such as I-cords, tassels and French knitting. There Madeline Weston & Rita Taylor
are chapters on lace knitting (which has made a huge (Jacqui Small/New South Books)
comeback recently); twisted stitches such as braids, ISBN: 9781906417666 RRP $39.99

W
cables and bobbles; changing colours for stripes, ith so many soft cover
geometrics, checks and Fair Isle; garment care; vintage knit books being
mending (darning) versus unravelling then reknitting; released recently, it is good to
felting and fulling techniques and even one chapter finally see a hard cover (A Stitch
on machine knitting. Her basic patterns are a great in Time, Vol 2 is the only other recent hard cover that
starting point. The glossary is well documented and comes to mind). The general and section introductions
the index is excellent. make good reading, with design sections encompassing
As a knitting enthusiast, this book really excited Pretty Tops (7 designs) Cute Cardigans (4 designs),
me when I read it, as it is a great reference for the Starlet Sweaters (6 designs), Twinsets & Two-Pieces (3
amateur to experienced knitter. I am going to practise
designs) and Finishing Touches (stole, beret, stockings,
the continental way of holding the wool and needles so
wrist warmers).
I “pick” instead of “throw”. Maybe I can be faster and
The designs come in three sizes: Small, Medium and
finish more of these delectable projects!
Large, ranging from an 80cm bust in the smallest design
—Robynn Ross
to 106.5cm as the largest size in one of the sweater
designs (most designs falling within the low 80cm-high
SOCKS á la carte Colorwork 90cm range), so the sizing is quite small.
Jonelle Raffino & Katherine Cade Designs cover the 1930s to 1950s, with a few of the
(North Light Books/Capricorn Link) designs being inspired by the era, not actually from
ISBN: 9781440309236 RRP$ 29.99 it. There is a good selection, including a skirt & top in

T he socks in this book (book

3 in the á la carte series) are
all cuff-down and as with the
the Twinset section, so the purists should not be too
upset, even though the styling is not always spot on for
the periods that they are portraying. The majority of
previous two books from this designs are very wearable today, so for me, this book
series, the central pages are cut into three sections. You is a keeper!
flip between the sections to combine your favourite —Carmel Casey
cuff, with a funky body, before finding the perfect heel/

4 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 4 10/17/2012 7:51:42 AM

 reviews

Knitting the Perfect Fit:

Essential Fully Fashioned
Shaping Techniques for
Designer Results
Melissa Leapman (Potter Craft/
Random House)
ISBN: 9780307586643 RRP $22.99

W hat a clever book. Melissa

has included a �igure guide
(body shape icons) beside each pattern to suggest what
�igure shapes the designs are most suited to. These are
so simple, they are perfect, ranging from a triangle, to
an upside down triangle, a circle, a rectangle (yes, that
would be me) and two �ine triangles meeting in the
middle suggesting an impossibly small waist (can you
feel the mentals darts I am throwing at all of you tiny
waisted women?). More than just supplying patterns
however, Melissa explains and demonstrates how to
use shaping to make the most of what you have (or in
my case, haven’t got).
Chapter 1 covers the Basics, such as how to work
increases and decreases, plus that all-important Shape
Icon chart. The chart explains what to look for in a design,
and what to avoid, so that it �latters your speci�ic shape
(body type). Chapter 2 includes a Designer Workshop,
enabling you to customise your shaping techniques.
It also includes some beautifully �itted patterns to
practice your new-found skills. Chapter 3 expands on
those designer details with extra shaping ideas, such as
cabling to accentuate increases and decreases (I almost to perfection, showing the front, back and side views,
stopped breathing at this chapter). Chapter 4 looks at with a close-up of the details. Want more? There are
ways to �latter each �igure type, putting into action the graphs and schematics, with decent size ranges, mostly
earlier principles and incorporating them into entire from 81cm-130cm (32-51.25inch) bust ranges. Want
design ideas. The information in the Figure Flatterers even more? There is waist shaping and there are Notes
workshop is de�initely worth noting. at the start that explain how you are going to work the
If you are keen to step your knitting up a notch and design. Still want more? All of the techniques are well
start using fully fashioned shaping techniques for a explained and most are illustrated at the back, after the
more professional �inish and �lattering end design, then Glossary. Now if you want more still, you are just being
this is a good investment. mean and greedy! The book is wonderful and you could
—Mae Eastman not want for more.
Textured Stitches: Knitted Designs include shawls, gloves & mittens, some hats,
a couple of tunic tops, a headband, several cardigans, a
Sweaters & Accessories
jacket, a jumper and a short sleeved top. This book is all
with smart details about the details.
Connie Chang Chinchio —Michelle Moriarty
(Interweave/Search Press)
ISBN: 9781596683167 RRP$29.99

W hat can I say, except that

the book title says it all!
The garment shapes and styles have elegant, simple
lines, with beautiful and often delicate detailing, making
them all special. This is my kind of knitwear style and
being classic shapes, you can wear them year after year
Out Now!
Distribution through newsagents, select craft stores.
without the garments dating.
Each garment or accessory has been photographed (02) 6687 4002 or visit www.artwearpublications.com.au

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 5

Y28 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 5 10/17/2012 7:52:12 AM

 10 Knitting
Techniques You
Must Try Before
You Die: Part 3
By Liz Haywood

In Part 1 you were shown how to work cables without

a cable needle plus how to weave in ends as you go and for many sock patterns. A square flap is knitted back
a few ways to create surface interest with deliberately and forth on ½ the number of stitches, followed by
dropped stitches. In Part 2 you learnt the art of the a series of short rows to shape the heel. Stitches
slipped stitch, the advantages of seamless garments are then picked up along one side of the heel flap,
and the steek! In Part 3 we will look at Turning a Sock then the non-heel (front) stitches are knitted, then
Heel and Making I-cord. stitches are picked up along the other side of the heel
flap, then the shaped top of the heel flap is knitted.
Work is continued in the round and decreases are
Turning a sock heel
made at the base of each side of the heel flap until
The enigma of turning a sock heel was always spoken
the original number of stitches is restored.
of in the same hushed tones my late (non-knitting)
The sock in the photo has the heel flap knitted in
father saved for baking the perfect sponge cake, folding
Heel Stitch, reported to be stronger and more durable.
a fitted sheet, changing a nappy, and other Mysterious
It’s made by slipping alternate stitches purlwise on
Domestic Skills. So it surprised me to find out for myself
the right side rows (slip 1, knit one repeated across
that it actually wasn’t all that hard. There is more than
the row).
one way to turn a sock heel and most sock knitters have
Knit a heel flap back-and-forth for 18 (20) rows on the
a favourite method. Ideally the sock should form a 90
18 (20) back stitches, leaving the stitches for the front
degree “L” shape at the heel so that when worn, the
of the sock on a holder or spare dpn. Slip the first stitch
fabric under the heel isn’t too stretched and there’s no
of each row either knitwise or purlwise respectively,
excess bunching just above the instep. Some people like
to give a smooth braided edge for picking up the edge
to peg their hand knitted socks out to dry by the heel to
stitches later. When the heel flap is complete, finishing
help preserve the “L” shape.
on a w/s row, turn and knit to the halfway point.
Row 1: Ssk, k1, turn
Try a pair
Row 2: P2, p2tog, p1, turn
This fast-knit 12ply walking sock can be made with a
Row 3: k4, ssk, k1, turn
choice of 3 commonly found heels. Find some robust
Row 4:p6, p2tog, p1, turn
12ply yarn and some 5mm double pointed needles
Row 5: k8, ssk, k1, turn
to yield a tension of 16st=10cm (4inch). You’ll need
Row 6: p10, p2tog, p1, turn
120g-150g (4-5oz) of yarn to make a pair. Stash
Continue in this manner until all the stitches are
busting? Knit striped socks or have different coloured
consumed, ending with a knit row. “Wrapping and
toes and heels.
turning” will prevent holes forming when you turn
For ladies socks cast on 36st, for men cast on 40st.
the work each time. Pick up the wraps when you knit
Work circularly on double pointed needles until the
across the whole row. Knit up the stitches along the side
tube measures about 15cm (6inch). You can do what
of the heel flap, knitting up one stitch for each slipped
you like on this ankle part. I like my socks to have k2, p2
stitch =9 (10)sts. Knit the front stitches, then knit up
rib, but you can work k1, p2 rib, or stocking stitch with
the stitches along the other side of the heel flap.
a ribbed top.
Continue working in the round, decreasing one stitch
Turn the heel in one of the three following described
at each side of the base of the heel flap every second
ways, then carry on working in stocking stitch until
round. K2tog at the right side and ssk at the left side
you’re 6cm (2½inch) short of the end.
will give a symmetrical decrease. Stop decreasing when
the original number of stitches has been restored, and
Heel flap and gusset (heel turning method 1)
just work regular rounds of stocking stitch until it’s
A heel flap and gusset sock heel is the heel of choice
time to make the toe.

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Y28 10 thing to do pg6.indd 6 10/17/2012 7:59:14 AM

 To make the toe, arrange the stitches on the double
pointed needles so that the top half of the stitches are
on one needle and the sole stitches are divided between
the other two needles (ie, 18-9-9 or 20-10-10sts). Knit
across all the sole stitches to within 3st of the end, k2tog,
k1. On the top stitches, k1, ssk, work to within 3st of
the end, k2tog, k1. At the beginning of the sole stitches,
k1, ssk =4st dec. Work one round with no decreasing
alternating with one round with decreasing until 12 (16)
sts remain. Graft the front stitches to the back stitches.

Peasant heel (heel turning method 2)

Peasant heel has been added here.

A peasant heel is worked on 2/3 of the stitches after the

rest of the sock is �inished. The stitches that are destined
to become the heel are knitted using a length of waste
yarn, which is pulled out when the heel is ready to be
made. The stitches are picked up on double pointed
needles and a sock toe is knitted, with the decreasing
at the sides. The beauty of a peasant heel is that it can
be completely removed and re-knitted very easily if the
heel wears out. It’s sometimes called a Grandma’s Heel
or Waste Yarn Heel. This peasant heel had the waste
yarn knitted through the middle of a stripe, making the
heel look as if it had grown out of the stripe.
After completing the ankle, knit to 13 (14)st short
of the end of the next round. Cut the yarn leaving
a tail. Knit the next 26 (28)st around the back of the
sock using a contrasting strand of yarn, then continue
knitting with the correct yarn for the foot. You can go
ahead and complete the rest of the sock, although you
might like to stop part way and knit the peasant heel so
you can accurately measure the length of the sole.
Pull out the strand of contrasting yarn and assemble
the 53 (57)st onto 3 double pointed needles. Yes, there
will always be an extra stitch. Knit one round in your
chosen heel colour, picking up 1st at one end and 2sts
at the other, totalling 56 (60)st. Work as for the toe,
decreasing on alternate rounds until you have 12 (16)st
remaining. Graft the front and back of the heel together.
Weave in the ends and close up any holes in the corners
of the heel.

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Y28 10 thing to do pg6.indd 7 10/17/2012 7:59:38 AM

 Short row (heel turning method 3) and turn the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps).
On the following rows, pick up both wraps and knit or
purl them together with that stitch. Continue the short
rows and wrapping and turning until you have worked
all 18 (20)sts. Heel completed.
You may like to pick up an extra stitch between these
stitches and the ones you left on the holder, to close up
any holes that might be there. Decrease them away on
the next round.
If you’re struggling with the double wraps, you can
take the stitches off the holder and knit a complete
round (picking up all the wraps) before beginning the
second half of the heel.

Read some more

There’s a plethora of inspirational and instructive sock
A short row heel is worked on ½ of the stitches. The knitting books and new ones coming out all the time.
heel stitches are worked back and forth making each Here are just some.
row one stitch shorter than the previous row, wrapping “The Knitter’s Handy Book of Patterns”, “Getting
and turning at the ends to eliminate holes. When a Started Knitting Socks”, “Sock Knitting Master Class:
certain number of non-wrapped stitches remain in the Innovative Techniques + Patterns from Top Designers”
centre (say, about 3cm worth), the process is reversed all by Ann Budd, or “Knitting Without Tears” by
with each row becoming one stitch longer until all the Elizabeth Zimmerman or “Folk Socks: The History &
stitches have been worked. A short row heel looks more Techniques of Handknitted Footwear” by Nancy Bush or
like the heels on shop-bought socks than the other “The Knitter’s Book of Socks: The Yarn Lover’s Ultimate
types of heels. This short row heel has a hole at the top Guide to Creating Socks That Fit Well, Feel Great, and
where I missed a wrap. Last a Lifetime” by Clara Parkes or “Sock Innovation:
After completing the ankle, knit to 9 (10)st short of Knitting Techniques and Patterns for One-of-a-Kind
the end of the next round. Place the 18 (20)st you just Socks” and “Knit. Sock. Love.” both by Cookie A or
worked onto a holder, leaving 18 (20)st to make the “Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles”, “New Pathways
short row heel. for Sock Knitters” and “Personal Footprint socks” all by
Row 1: Knit 17 (19)st. Yarn forward. Slip the last Cat Bordhi or “Socks al la carte” by SWTC.
(unworked) stitch purlwise from the left needle to
the right needle. Take the yarn to the back. Slip the I-cord
unworked stitch back again. The last stitch has now I-cord stands for Idiot cord, and is sometimes called
been “wrapped”. Turn the work ready for row 2. knitted cord. It is a cord that’s actually a tube knitted on
Row 2: Purl to the last stitch. Yarn back. Slip the last two double pointed needles. It yields a similar result to
stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. French knitting on a Knitting Nancy or cotton reel with
Bring the yarn to the front. Slip the stitch back again. The nails in the top. When he was young, my brother once
second stitch has now been “wrapped”. Turn the work. made a giant French knitted cord using a toilet roll tube
Row 3: Knit across to one stitch before the wrapped and icy pole sticks. He kept it wound in a huge ball and
one. Wrap and turn. every so often unwound it for us into a spiral rug shape, or
Row 4: Purl across to one stitch before the wrapped
one. Wrap and turn.
Continue repeating rows 3 and 4 until there are 6
stitches remaining unwrapped in the centre. The heel
is now half done. The second half is a little trickier and
requires more attention because you’ll be wrapping
and turning and picking up all the wraps as you knit.
Row 1: Knit across the 6 unwrapped stitches in the
centre to the first wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap with
the tip of the right hand needle and place it on the left
needle and knit it together with the stitch. Wrap the
next stitch, so that it now has two wraps, and turn.
Row 2: Purl across to the first wrapped stitch. Pick
up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap

8 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 10 thing to do pg6.indd 8 10/17/2012 8:00:00 AM

 just around the bedroom connecting bed to door handle
to wardrobe handle etc. We had a lot of fun with it.
I-cord can be used as an embellishment as well as a
functional cord. It can be knitted separately and sewn
onto garments as “cornelli”, frog closures, trim, etc.
It can also be knitted at the same time as the main
garment as a border, cast-on or cast-off, or button hole
border, to name a few techniques.
I-cord is used around the top of this hot water bottle
cover. The cord was knitted with only two stitches,
using two strands of 8ply yarn held together.

Give it a try
You’ll need 2 double pointed needles. Cast on 3sts,
although depending on the thickness and elasticity of
the yarn it can be as few as 2 or as many as 6 or 7, but
for our sample, we will cast on 3sts. Knit 3, then slide
them to the other end of the needle. Do not turn the
needles. Pull the yarn �irmly across the back and knit 3
again. Continue in this manner until the cord is as long
as required.

Try an I-cord border on garter stitch fabric by knitting

the row to the last 3 stitches, yarn forward, slip 3
purlwise, turn, and repeat. It doesn’t work on stocking
stitch because the slipped stitches cause the cord border
to be shorter than the knitting, but it does work well on
garter stitch and patterns with a similar row count.

Read some more

Try “Knitting Around” by Elizabeth Zimmerman, or
Nicky Epstein’s “On the Edge” series of books, or
“The Essential Guide to Color Knitting Techniques”
by Margaret Radcliffe, or “Knitting Around the Edge:
Bands, Border, and Buttonholes” by Nancie Wiseman all
feature I-cord in them. There is a perfect pattern in Yarn
20, “Maxi and Mary Jane Summer Slippers” by Patrizia
Steadman to practice the border technique.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 9

Y28 10 thing to do pg6.indd 9 10/17/2012 8:00:27 AM

 10 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Yarn kindly donated by Beautiful Silks

Y28 hyperbolic lace scarf pg10.indd 10 10/17/2012 7:57:02 AM

 Hyperbolic
Lace Scarf
ria Parade)
101 Victoria St (nb: NOT Victo lia
stra
Fitzroy 3065 Victoria Au
Fax: 61 (0)3 9415 8745
Tel: 61 (0)3 9419 7745
ilks.com
By Liz Gemmell Email: info@beautifuls 12 workshops
bs ite for 20
Check our we
Yarn Although the original pattern called for 150g of 2 ply,
silks.com
www.beautiful
101 Victoria St (nb: NOT Victoria Parade)

or 200g of 3 ply pure wool, preferably on a cone so that

Fitzroy Victoria 3065 Australia
Ph: +61 3 9419 7745
Fax: +61 3 9415 8745
Web: www.beautifulsilks.com

you don’t have to join the wool in the lace (pure wool and
Email: [email protected]
MAP 2C-A7 TRAM 112 BUS 200-207

not machine wash treated wool so that it can be joined by Knitters, weavers and interested
splicing) we used Beautiful Silks Fancy Mulberry Silk Twist collectors are welcomed, wholesale
Yarn #3 (100g/3.5oz, 370m/407yds, 20wpi, equiv Aust and retail is available, kits, yarns,

N STREET
NE STREET
3ply, CYCA #0, Lace weight) 1.5 skeins. spinning fibres, and more...
ALEXANDR
A PARADE

NICHOLSO
RATHDOW
MELBOURNE UNI
M3
Needles and notions If using the suggested 2 or 3 ply
You are most welcome Palmersto
n St

wool, 3.5mm (US 4) needles for 2 ply, or 4mm (US 6) N

ET
CARLTON
to join our knitting
Kerr St

LYGON STRE

Young St
W E

needles for 3 ply; stitch markers. We used 4mm (US 6)

ELGIN STRE
ET Argyle St
BUS # 201, BUS

* **
3, 7
S

group on Thursday
TRAM JOHNSTON
STREET

96
Faraday St VICTORIA TRAM
STR

TRAM #
EET

112
needles with the silk yarn.
Chapel St

ET
TRAM #
University
St

SMITH STRE
Murchison

from 5-7pm.
Greeves St Perry St
St St Bell St
ly

Bedford St
rk Exhibition
Ba Owen St St

Tension Very flexible, as long as the fabric you knit comes

GRAT
GR ATTA
TANN STREET
ET CARLTON
STRE
FITZROY St David St Otter St
ET

Stt

N STREET
monddS
Moor St

Drummon

K STREET
out soft and pliable.
King Willia

10% discount on all

NE STREET
m St Stanley St

NICHOLSO
Condell St

DOWNE

BRUNSWIC
Charles St

RATHDOW

Fitzroy St
Abbreviations yo=yarn over needle, created by
M
products on Thursday. COLLINGWOOD

RATH
Webb St
Museum Palmer St

rd St
CARLTON
CARLT
CARL ON GARDENS

Oxford St
Little Oxfo
bringing the knitting yarn to the front between the open

ge St
Queens
nsbe
nsber
erry
rry
ry St

St

h St
Gertrude

Little Geor
Napier St
St

Little Gore
George St

ET
Little Smit
Alma St

ON STRE
Gore St

St
needles and knit the next stitch or stitches as instructed;

Cambridge
)
N (TRAM

Young St

WELLINGT
Derby St

ET
SMITH STRE
St. Vincents Little Victo

MENT STATIO
Hosp. ria St Mason St

rep=repeat; tog=together
T

R O West
REEEET
STR

Sprin
VICTORIA
OBE VICTORIA PARADE

TO PARLIA
LA TR PARADE

g St
VICTORIA
STREET

Notes The cast on row is a very critical row for strength.

If the finished scarf gets tugged while wearing it, the cast 101 Victoria Street (NOT Victoria Parade) Fitzroy 3065 Victoria Australia
T: (03) 9419 7745 F: (03) 9415 8745 E: [email protected]
on row could break and thus ruin the scarf. The cast on
row has the smallest number of stitches and so creates the Sydney (02) 8005 1745 Brisbane (07) 3102 5745 Perth (08) 9467 4266
NZ Sentosa Textiles - Peter Lucena +64 (0) 9376 5612
beginning of the frilling. To strengthen the cast on row,
simply cast on using an extra thread in matching colour Check our website for convenient tram bus train and parking information.
with the fine wool. High twist crochet cotton or even a
very strong sewing machine thread in polyester or cotton
would be suitable. Use the strong thread together with the
fine wool and in a matching colour. Start and finish 2012_BSilks_Ads.indd
the 2 5/04/12 4:35 PM

cast on row with a comfortable tail of the strong thread so

that you can secure and weave it in invisibly.

This over-frilled scarf may seem onerous to knit, but it’s

not. Yes, there are a lot of stitches, but it becomes quite
mechanical and automatic to work. The lace row only
occurs once in every four rows and the markers help you
keep track with knitting the lace pattern. I found it quite
relaxing and comforting as your fingers learn what to
do and that seems to leave your mind free for your own
thoughts or TV watching or being a contented passenger.
You simply knit away and when you finish, it’s not just a
scarf, its spectacular!

Scarf
Cast on 180sts [or more or less, as long as the number
is divisible by 18], using yarn together with the strong
thread (see Notes). Complete the scarf in yarn only
(drop the strong thread).
Row 1: K [180 sts]
Row 2: [yo, K1] rep to end, [360 sts].
Row 3: K.
Row 4: [yo, K1] rep to end, [720 sts].
Row 5: K.
Row 6: [yo, K1] rep to end, [1,440 sts].
Row 7: K.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 11

Y28 hyperbolic lace scarf pg10.indd 11 10/17/2012 7:57:36 AM

 such mistakes obvious. Continue until work measures
12cm (4.75inch) ending on a Row 3. On the next row
the lace pattern will increase from 18 sts to 24 sts thus:
Increase row: K6, [yo, K1] six times, K6, rep to end [24
sts between every marker].
Continue with the larger lace pattern:
Row 1: K.
Row 2: K.
Row 3: K.
Row 4: K2tog four times, [yo, K1] eight times, K2tog
four times; rep to end of row.
Continue with lace pattern for desired length [15cm
or 6inch works well]. For the sample made with cream
silk however, we cast off when the work was 12cm long
and did not work the triangles, as the drape was already
magnificent. Cast off loosely after a Row 4, using a 6 to
9mm (US 10 – 13) needle [or larger if necessary] to
create the loose cast off.
For the grey scarf, return to cast off edge. Pick up 180
sts along cast off edge and knit one row, as the set up
for the triangles.
Work triangles
The triangles can be worked by any number that divides
into 180. I have chosen 10 sts, but 5 sts or 6 sts would
work as well, you will just have more triangles and they
will be smaller.
Row 1: K2, turn.
Row 2: K2.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: K3.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: K4.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Continue in this way until you have worked up to
K10, turn.
Next row: Cast off 10 sts and K2. These K2 sts will
be on your right hand needle and so start the next
This grey scarf is the original sample, made in wool.
triangle in the same way. Work until all the sts have
been used up.
Option: You can do another increase row for really
extravagant frilling. The grey scarf had 2,880 sts. If Blocking
you stop increasing at Row 6, as seen in our cream silk Wash and rinse the scarf.
sample, the scarf will still frill extravagantly. Gently squeeze some of
Begin the Feather and Fan pattern the water from the scarf.
Row1: K, placing a thread marker every 18sts. It’s Some water left in the
worth the bother. Slip markers as you come to them. scarf will make it heavy
Row 2: K. and so will help with this
Row 3: K. form of blocking.
Row 4: [K2tog] three times, [yo, K1] six times, [K2tog] Peg the scarf to the
three times, [=18 sts worked]; rep this inside every clothes line by its cast
marker to end of row. on row. Place pegs about
If you make a mistake in this row, you will notice it 5cm (2inch) or so apart.
straight away because of the markers which define the Gently pull the points of
18sts. You will not have to check the whole row. Also if lace downwards. Do this
you lose count of the number of K rows, simply work a twice. Allow to air dry.
lace row and continue on. The frills will not make any No need to iron.

12 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 hyperbolic lace scarf pg10.indd 12 10/17/2012 7:58:03 AM

 Motif One

Foot
Thongs
By Amy Scott-Young

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 13

Y28 Thongs pg13.indd 13 10/17/2012 10:56:24 AM

 Motif Two

Foot Thongs
By Amy Scott-Young
Motif One (make 2)
Using 3mm (US D) crochet hook and Col A, create magic
ring to begin circle.
Round 1: ch 3, 11dc into magic ring, join round with a
Yarn Motif One: Hemptique Hemp Cord (50g/1.75oz,
sl st into 3rd chain of beg ch 3
62.5m/68.3yds, 15wpi, equiv Aust 5 ply, CYCA #2, Sport
Weight) 1 spool Colour A Gold, 1 spool Colour B Light Blue,
Round 2: ch 3, dc join Col B, bo, join Col A, *2dc in next
1 spool Colour C Cream, 1 spool Colour D Dark Brown; stitch, join Col B, bo, join Col A*
Motif Two: The Thread Studio Silk Sari Ribbon 100% Silk Repeat from * to * until end of round, join round with sl
(100g/3.5oz 50m/54.6yds, 6-8wpi, equiv Aust 12ply, CYCA st into 3rd chain of beg ch 3.
#5, Heavy Worsted) 1 skein Colour Barrier Reef. Round 3: ch 3, 2dc in same stitch (see right), join Col B,
Needles and notions Motif One: 3mm (US D) crochet bo, join Col A, *3dc in next 2 stitches, join Col B, bo, join
hook; 4mm (US 6) double pointed needles; tapestry Col A*, repeat from * to * until you have 6 bo, 3dc in next
needle; one pair of brown plugged thongs; 6 brown 2.5cm
stitch, join Col C, join round with sl st into 3rd chain of
(1inch) shank buttons. Motif Two: 7mm (US K) crochet
hook; sewing needle and thread; one pair blue plugged
beg ch 3.
thongs; 6 blue 25mm (1inch) shank buttons; 2 brown 5cm Round 4: ch 3, dc 9, 2dc 1tr in next stitch, 1tr 2dc in
(2inch) coconut buttons. next stitch, *dc 12, 2dc 1tr in next stitch, 1tr 2dc in next
Finished measurements Motif One: triangle motif edge stitch*, repeat from * to *, dc 2, join Col D, join round
measures 11cm (4.3inch), straps measure 90cm (35inch) with sl st into 3rd chain of beg ch 3.
(or length required). Motif Two: triangle motif edge Round 5: ch 2, sc 8, *1sc 1dc in next stitch, dc 3, tr, dc 3,
measures 11cm (4.3inch), straps measure 6cm (2.4inch),
1dc 1sc in next stitch,* sc 9, repeat from * to *, join with
or length required.
sl st into 2nd chain of beg ch 2.
Notes ch=chain, sc=single crochet, dc=double crochet,
tr=treble crochet, sl st=slip stitch, bo=bobble stitch. Round 6: ch 2, sc 12, *1sc ch 5 1sc in next stitch*, sc 19,
Double and treble crochets are worked inside the spaces 3sc in next stitch, sc 19, repeat from * to *, sc 6, join with
of each stitch. To join colour pull new colour through last sl st into 2nd chain of beg ch 2, cast off.
loops of stitch.
Bobble Stitch make 5 treble crochets, keeping the last Toe Strap
loop of each stitch on the hook, slip stitch into all 6 loops
Using 4mm (US 6) double pointed knitting needles, pick
on the hook.
up 3 stitches at the toe (see right), join Col D *k3, do
Magic Ring Wrap yarn around your finger and make a
slip knot, 1ch, then 7dc around the strand of yarn. Pull the not turn work, slide stitches to right end of needle and
loose end of the slip knot to close the ring. Here is a youtube pull yarn to tighten*, repeat from * to * 6 times (or until
link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg length required), cast off.

14 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Thongs pg13.indd 14 10/17/2012 10:57:05 AM

 Thread strap through thong toe and sew to one
shank button.

Ankle Straps (make 2)

Using 4mm (US 6) double pointed needles and Col D,
cast on 3 stitches, *k3, do not turn work, slide stitches
to right end of needle and pull yarn to tighten*, repeat
from * to * until length measures 90cm (35in) (or until
length required), cast off.
Sew each ankle strap to one shank button. Thread
through thong heel and motif loop.

Motif Two (make 2)

Using 7mm (US K) crochet hook, create magic ring to
begin circle.
Round 1: ch 3, 11dc into magic ring, join round with a
sl st into 3rd chain of beg ch 3.
Round 2: ch 3, tr 1dc in same stitch, dc 3, *dc tr dc in
next stitch, dc 3*, repeat from * to *, join round with sl st Book 8007

into 3rd chain of beg ch 3, ch 5, cast off (this length will

SORRENTO
become the toe strap). Thread strap through thong toe CONTAINS

and sew to one shank button. 4

CO

4 D
N TA I N S

ESIGN
S
DES

4
IGNS

Heel Straps: *join yarn at triangle corner with sl st, ch

5, cast off*. Repeat from * to * for other corner.
Thread each strap through thong heel and sew each end
to one shank button. To �inish, use the Silk Sari Ribbon
to attach one coconut button to the middle of each
triangle motif. Patons Sorrento
8007 1

SORRENTO
Yellow and Coral are the two new highlight colours in the
Sorrento range - just perfect for trans-seasonal and summer
layering. Use the new Sorrento colours on their own, or mix
in with neutrals and pales for an updated look. We show you
how with some beautiful colourway options in Book 8007.
Available at all good yarn stores.
Phone 1800 337 032 for your nearest stockist.
www.patonsyarns.com.au

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 15

Y28 Thongs pg13.indd 15 10/17/2012 10:57:47 AM

 Chance of a
Alternative processors were looked at, but few
options were available, leaving Ashford facing the real
possibility of being forced to send wool offshore to be

Lifetime: Good washed, carded and dyed, not to mention having to

stand by and watch the invaluable knowledge and skills
of the mill’s employees lost to other industries. Both

News from went against the very principles the Ashford brand
was founded upon. “Taking it offshore simply wasn’t

New Zealand
an option. While it may be cheaper to get it processed
in China, there was no guarantee we could maintain
the same quality our customers are used to. Our aim
By Annie Studholme is to provide the best equipment and the best fibre to
make the whole craft experience more enjoyable,” says
Richard Ashford.
The employment of four former mill staff, Wayne,
George, Louis and Kevin, who together boast more
than 100 years of experience in wool processing, has
been key to the expansion’s success. “We were very
keen not to see those skills lost to New Zealand. Our
men are passionate about what they do – it’s what they
know. They understand the needs of our customers
and are committed to producing a top quality product.
Already they are part of the Ashford family, and are
keen to promote wool and develop new lines,” adds
Elizabeth.
From the outset, the continued growth of Ashford in
an ever-changing world has been due to its commitment
to staying New Zealand-made, coupled with its devotion
to provide quality products that are reliable, durable
and a pleasure to use. “It’s always been about starting
with the best possible raw materials to ensure we get
the best possible result for our customers. It’s about
being made in New Zealand, by New Zealanders, as
environmentally, ethically and sustainably as possible.
It’s something we are very proud of,” says Kate Sherratt,
For Richard and Elizabeth Ashford the chance to Ashford sales, marketing and Milton manager.
purchase part of the historic 117-year-old Milton The same care and attention applies to producing
Woollen Mill presented them with an opportunity not to its wool sliver, starting from the selection of the raw
be missed. To provide the best possible product meant material with speciality fleeces direct from farmers, or
securing a reliable supply of fibre into the future. To this the purchase of Corriedale and Merino wool at auction
end, a production line of 13 machines was purchased to produce its Corriedale, Merino, or Silk/Merino blend
and a lease of a corner of the mill was arranged, as well
as employing staff to operate the machines.
“It was a leap of faith. It wasn’t a decision we took
lightly, but for us this was our point of difference. We
sell a quality product overseas that is New Zealand
grown and processed, and we had to fight to save that,”
says Elizabeth Ashford.
Previously known as QualitYarns, the mill was
responsible for transforming Ashford 100% pure
New Zealand wool into sliver for spinners, felters
and weavers worldwide. When the mill went into
receivership last December, joining a long list of mills
around the country to close, with it went a critical part
of the Ashford business, raising uncertainties about the
future supply and quality.

16 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Ashford pg16.indd 16 10/17/2012 8:02:35 AM

 sliver ranges. Ashford works closely with a wool buyer From the farm gate or auction room, the wool is
to source the right quality fibre to meet its stringent scoured (washed) locally in Timaru using a standard
specifications, with emphasis placed on length (free of aqueous treatment at 60-70 degrees with eco-friendly
breaks), bulk, minimal vegetable matter, brightness and detergent that is biodegradable and breaks down
micron. It only accepts wool from ethically produced, quickly in the water, leaving no trace. It is then dried
grass-fed sheep, free from mulesing. “Our buyer is and transferred to the Milton plant for dyeing using
always looking for the right wool. Often at an auction Eco-Tex 100 compliant dyes, carding, gilling, combing
of 5,000 bales, there won’t be one bale that meets our and balling into 1kg balls.
specification. If it’s not 100% right, he won’t buy it and In addition to giving Ashfords’ total control of the
we wait for the next auction.” process, Kate says an unexpected benefit to come out
For procurement of its speciality fleeces, Ashford of the expansion into wool processing, is improved
has worked tirelessly to cultivate relationships direct flexibility. “Because we can process smaller quantities,
with farmers, buying up to 30 per cent straight off the we now have the luxury of being able to try new blends
farm. Many of its farmer suppliers are members of and colours without delay, plus the ability to process
the New Zealand Black and Coloured Sheep Breeders’ custom colours and orders. Our customers are always
Association and are dedicated crafts folk themselves, looking for new colours and blends. Now we have
giving them an intimate knowledge of what’s required the men with the skills, the equipment and all these
for felters, spinners and weavers, which helps to ensure wonderful fibres, the possibilities are endless. It’s really
the fleeces are true to type and a joy to work with, exciting,” smiled Kate.
explains Kate. “We know them and know they are just as Since Ashford took over the mill, customer feedback
passionate about sheep and wool as we are. They take has been extremely positive resulting in a lift in sales.
great pleasure from the fact that the wool will be used And with new blends and ideas in the pipeline there are
by crafts folk around the world. It gives them certainty lots more to look forward to in the coming months.
and they are rewarded for the extra effort they make to
grow top quality wool.”
“They are great people to deal with,”
says Rolleston farmer Leo Ponsonby,
one of Ashfords’ regular suppliers of
speciality fleeces from his 110 purebred
Corriedale, Merino and Romney
coloured ewe flock. He is a passionate
advocate of the Black and Coloured
Sheep Breeders’ Association as a
judge, inspector and council member.
“It’s a win-win situation. Farmers get
a premium (for their fleece) that they
wouldn’t get at auction and Ashfords
gets exactly the product they want, with
continuity of supply and little wastage.”

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 17

Y28 Ashford pg16.indd 17 10/17/2012 8:03:02 AM

 18 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Relax Cardie pg18.indd 18 10/17/2012 8:04:14 AM

 Relax Cardigan
By Melissa Deutsch Scott
Yarn Jo Sharp Classic DK 100% wool (50g/1.75oz,
98m/107yds, 11wpi, equiv to thicker Aust 8ply, Light
Worsted) MC (Black #302)10 balls, Colour A (Heron #802)
2 balls, Colour B (Linen #335) 1 ball, Colour C (Fleur #353)
2 balls. For a much more affordable option, substitute
with Bendigo Woollen Mills Persian yarn (which comes in
economical 200g balls for the main colour) and oddments
of 8 ply for the contrast colours.
Needles and notions 4mm (US 6) and 4.5mm (US 7)
circular needles (80cm and 100cm); 4mm (US 6) double
pointed needles; cable needle, markers and small safety pins
or waste yarn for stitch and row marking; tapestry needle.
Tension 20 sts and 28 rows to 10cm (4inches) in st st on
4.5mm (US 7) needles
Finished measurements Bust 86.4 (97.8, 106.7, 116.8,
Specialising in locally, nationally and
127)cm or 34 (38.5, 42, 46, 50)inches. Length 57.2 (60, internationally sourced natural fibre yarns.
64.8, 68.6, 71.1)cm or 22.5 (23.6, 25.5, 27, 28)inch or
length to suit. Stockists of Fyberspates, Cascade, Lorna's Laces,
Abbreviations pm=place marker; sm=slip marker; Sweet Georgia, Skein and so much more.
m1=make 1 stitch, insert left needle from front to back of
horizontal loop between the two sts and knit through the 159 Liverpool Street, Hobart, 7000
back loop; k1 tbl=knit 1 st through the back of the loop;
C6B=slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in back of
phone (03) 6234 1219
work. Knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, then, knit sts from
cable needle; C6F=slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold www.thestashcupboard.com.au
in front of work. Knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, then,
knit sts from cable needle; T5B=slip next 2 sts onto cable
needle and hold in back of work. Knit next 3 sts from left-
hand needle, then, purl sts from cable needle; T5F=slip next
3 sts onto cable needle and hold in front of work. Purl next
2 sts from left-hand needle, then, knit sts from cable needle.

With the body worked from the bottom up in one piece,

the Relax Cardigan is designed to emphasise texture and
colour, to entertain the knitter and please the wearer.
Featured here are a variety of pocket styles, fabric
textures (cables and knit/purl fabrics), and an I-cord
edging cast off.

Each pocket is designed with the knitter in mind—a wee

pocket for stitch markers, a larger front pocket for needle
gauges, rulers, cable needles, and a side pocket for other
bits and pieces.

Double Pique Stitch (over an odd number of sts)

Row 1: k1, p1
Rows 2 & 4: purl all sts
Row 3: p1, k1

Moss Stitch
Row 1: k1, p1
Row 2: knit the purls and purl the knits

Cable Panel (multiple of 10+ 5 worked over 35 sts)

1st Foundation Row: (RS) k3, *p4, k6; repeat from * to
last 2 sts, p2.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 19

Y28 Relax Cardie pg18.indd 19 10/17/2012 8:05:23 AM

 purl 11 (13, 16, 18, 21); with waste yarn, knit 20sts to
mark pocket placement. Slip the sts just knitted back
onto left needle and cut waste yarn, leaving a tail long
enough so that the waste yarn sts won’t come loose;
then knit waste yarn sts with main yarn; purl 11 (14, 16,
19, 21)sts. Work another 2.5cm (1inch) as established
ending with a WS row.
Right Side Pocket
(RS) Work across Rt Front to first marker; sm, k1. With
a second ball of MC, work across back and left front.
Continue to work as established, creating a gap at the
right fake seam for 7.6cm (3inch), ending with a WS row.
Work another 5 (5, 7.6, 8.9, 8.9)cm or 2 (2, 3, 3.5, 3.5)
inches. Total length from cast on edge approximately
35.5 (35.5, 34.3, 38.1, 38.1)cm or 14 (14, 15, 15.5, 15.5)
inch, ending with a WS row.

Sleeves
With 4.5mm needles cast on 41 (43, 47, 49, 53)sts using
2-colour long tail method and work same as body rib for
2.5cm (1inch). Knit two rows. Work 3 (3, 3, 2, 2) rows in
2nd Foundation Row: (WS) k2, *p6, k4; repeat from * rev st st. On next and subsequent 6th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th)
to lat 3 sts, p3. rows work an increase at each side edge until 69 (77,
Row 1: k3, *p4, C6F; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. 83, 91, 99)sts. Check length after last increase row and
Row 2: k2, *p6, k4; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3. work until sleeve measures approximately 38.1 (41.9,
Row 3: *T5F, T5B; repeat from * to last 5 sts, T5F. 44.5, 44.5, 47)cm or 15 (16.5, 17.5, 17.5, 18.5)inch. End
Row 4: P3, *k4, p6; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. with a WS row.
Row 5: P2, *C6B, p4; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 6: work as for row 4. Join Body and Sleeves
Row 7: *T5B, T5F; repeat from * to last 5 sts, T5B. (RS) Purl Rt Front sts; place last 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) Rt Front
Row 8: work as for row 2. sts on hold. Purl first 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) sleeve sts, then place
Repeat rows 1-8 to form cable pattern. them on hold. Purl sleeve st; place last 3 (4, 4, 4, 5)
sleeve sts on hold. Purl first 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) back sts, then
Body place them on hold; purl remaining back sts, then place
With MC and 4.5mm needle, using a two-colour, long the last 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) back sts on hold. Purl first 3 (4,
tail method (use a ball of Colour A as the ‘tail’ for your 4, 4, 5) sleeve sts, then place them on hold. Purl first
long-tail cast on), cast on 173 (195, 213, 233, 253)sts in 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) Lft Front sts, then place the on hold. Purl
k1, p1 rib, ending with a knit st. (WS) Work one row in remaining 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) Lft Front sts. 287 [315, 347, 383,
p1, k1 rib, ending with a p1. Work in rib pat as follows: 411] total sts.
Row 1; k1, *p1, k1 tbl*; repeat from * to * to end. Row 2:
p1, k1 rib, ending with a p1. Continue working Rows 1 Change to 4mm (US 6) needle and work 10.9 (12.2,
and 2 until piece measures 2.5cm (1inch), ending with 13.5, 14.7, 16)cm or 4.3 (4.8, 5.3, 5.8, 6.3)inch in double
a WS row. pique stripe (working 2 rows in MC, then 2 rows in
Set Up Rows Colour A).
(RS) [Rt Front] Knit 43 (49), 53, 58, 63)sts; pm, [Back]
knit 87 (97, 107, 117, 127); pm, [Lft Front] knit 43 (49), Work first decrease round: p1, *p2, p2tog* repeat from
53, 58, 63)sts. (WS) Knit to one st before side marker; * to * to last 2 sts, p2. 215 [237, 261, 287, 309] total sts.
p1, sm, p1, knit 25 (30, 35, 40, 45)sts; pm, k35 centre
back sts; pm, k to 1 st before second side marker, p1, sm, Work 5.3 (6, 6.6, 7.1, 7.8)cm or 2.1 (2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.1)
p1, knit to end of row. Begin working fronts in reverse inch in double pique stripe (working 2 rows in MC, then
st st and back with cable panel until body measures 2 rows in Colour B), ending with a row 1 or 3.
20.3cm or 8inch (for first three sizes), 22.9cm or 9inch
(for two larger sizes) from cast on edge, ending with a Work second decrease round; *p1, p2tog*, repeat from
WS row. Work forethought pocket as follows: * to * to last 2 sts, p2 for smallest and second-largest
Left Front Pocket sizes; work *p1, p2tog*, repeat from * to * to end for all
Work as established across right front and back; sm, k1, other sizes. 144 [158, 174, 192, 206] total sts.

20 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Relax Cardie pg18.indd 20 10/17/2012 8:11:42 AM

 Work 5.3 (6, 6.6, 7.1, 7.8)cm or 2.1 (2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.1)
inch in double pique stripe (working 2 rows in MC, then
2 rows in Colour C, ending with a row 1 or 3.

Work third decrease round: p1,*p2tog*; repeat from *

to * to last st, p1. 71 [80, 86, 95, 102] total sts.

(RS) k1 row. Change to 4.5mm needle and purl 1 row.

Work neckline I-cord cast off with 4.5mm double
pointed needles as follows: (RS) Cast on 3 sts at beg
of left needle, *k3, ssk*, do not turn, repeat from * to *
until 4 sts remain. Cast off loosely.

Finishing
Small sleeve pocket
With Colour C, and 4mm double pointed needles and RS
facing, in a spot of your choosing, pick up and knit 12 sts
for a small pocket on the sleeve. Work 11 rows in st st,
ending with a WS row (picked up sts count as 1st row).
Change to Colour B and work 6 rows of moss st. Cast off.
Sew sides of pocket to sleeve using invisible seaming.
For a selection of pocket options, see “Pocket Science,”
Yarn Issue 5 available as a bundled CD pack containing
issues 5, 6, 7, 8 of Yarn Magazine for only $10 posted to
an address in Australia or $15 posted overseas.

Front Pocket
Unpick sts on waste yarn and place ½ the sts on 4mm
double pointed needle, and the other ½ of the sts
divided on 2 double pointed needles [19 total sts]. With
RS facing, pm to denote beg of rnd. With Colour B, knit
across first 10 sts (N1), m1 (11 sts); knit across N2 and
N3, then m1 [20 sts total]. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 28 rnds. Join
11 sts of N11 to 11 sts of N2 and N3 using a three needle
cast off (see Stitch Guide).

Front Edges
With MC, smaller needles, and RS facing pick up and
knit 112 (116, 126, 134, 140). (WS) Knit 1 row. (RS)
Purl 1 row. Change to Colour A and with RS facing, knit
2 rows. Purl 1 row. Knit 1 row. Cast off. Sew cast off edge
to inside of front edges, using purl bumps of cast on
edge as a guide. Work both front edges in this manner.

Optional side pocket

With smaller double pointed needles and RS facing,
using Colour B, pick up and knit 46sts around side
pocket opening, starting at the lower edge of side. Place
23sts on 1 needle and divide rest of sts over 2 needles.
Place marker to denote beg of rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Next rnd:
k22, p1, k22, p1. Repeat last rnd until pocket is 10cm
(4inch). Work three needle cast off purlwise.

Graft underarm stitches and sew sleeve seams. Weave

in ends. Block if desired.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 21

Y28 Relax Cardie pg18.indd 21 10/17/2012 2:07:54 PM

 22 YARN Issue No 28 Yarn kindly donated by
www.artwearpublications.com.au
Rennaisance Dyeing.

Y28 Contredanse Socks pg22.indd 22 10/17/2012 8:13:41 AM

 Contredanse
By Catherine Wallace
Yarn Renaissance Dyeing 100% Organic Poll Dorset wool
(100g/3.5oz, 336m/369yds, 19wpi, equiv Aust 4ply, CYCA
#1, Sock weight). One hank each in Colours Narbonne
(yellow), Maury (green), Troubadour (red), Castellan
(purple), Ecru (white), Mt Canigou (blue), Indigo (dark
blue), Ermengard (pale green), Mad (pink). These yarns can
be purchased in 4 x 25g coloured hanks.
Needles and notions 2.75mm (US 2) double pointed
needles
Tension 34 sts and 46 rows to 10cm (4 inch) in plain st st
Finished measurements from ribbing to heel 23.5cm
(9.25inch); from heel to toe 24/25/26cm (9.5, 9.85,
10.25inch).
Notes Because Fair Isle patterning is difficult to resize, if
you feel your tension is too tight or you are pulling the
floating yarn too firmly or the measurements as given are
too small for you, then you will need to use larger needles,
or larger needles and thicker wool. The Poll Dorset yarn
used here is slightly thicker than conventional sock yarn.
The size given is for an average foot and calf but the length
can be adjusted using the Extra Motifs chart. It is advisable
to twist in any floating yarn after three or four stitches. It
is also a good idea to wrap yarn ends with the working
thread behind the work as you go. This saves a great deal
of tidying up at completion.

I designed these socks during a week of wild weather while

watching BBC videos of George Eliot stories. The Fair Isle
style of knitting reminded me of the old Contredanse or
Country Dance—in which one couple dances while the
rest stand still and wait to take their turn. That’s how the
wool behaves in Fair Isle, one colour is active while the
others rest and try not to tangle themselves in the action.

Sock
Using Troubadour (red) cast on 72 stitches and divide
them evenly between three needles (24sts per needle). 11//2 wa
t
y point

Round 1: Join round, add Narbonne (yellow) and au

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Round 15A: Using Indigo (dark blue) and Mad (pink),
. / d go
to

*k1 Indigo, k1 Mad, repeat from * to end.

Round 15B: Bring both yarns to the front as for a purl
stitch. Use Mad to purl the Indigo stitch, use Indigo to
purl the Mad stitch. Each time you change colour, bring
the new colour underneath the old colour. Continue in
this way to end of round. e
ewellery wel
Work chart Rounds 16-28. ler
Round 29A&B: Repeat Rounds 15A&B. MMa
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Using Ecru (white) and Mt Canigou (blue) work Rounds
Maris Herr
30- 61 from chart.
Divide for heel
Work Row 1 of Heel Chart across first 18 sts. Transfer
rest of stitches from 1st needle onto 2nd needle. Work

d by www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 23

g.

Y28 Contredanse Socks pg22.indd 23 10/17/2012 8:14:40 AM

 Contredanse Main Chart
24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
119
118
117
116
115
114
113
112
111
110
109
108
107
106
105
104
103
102
101
100
99
98
97
96
95
94
93
92
91
90
89
88
87
86
85
84
83
82
81
80
79
78
77
76
75
74
73
72
71
70
69
68
67
66
65
64
63
62
61
60
59
58
57
56
55
54

Row 2 of Heel Chart, slipping first stitch and purling/

53
52
51

using 17 sts from 3rd needle (35sts for heel). Transfer 50

49

remaining stitches from 3rd needle to end of 2nd

48
47
46

needle and divide the stitches on 2nd needle between 44

45

two needles. Leave these 37 sts for instep. Continue to

43
42
41

work from Heel Chart until Row 30 of heel is completed. 40

39

Turn heel
38
37

Row 31: Using the two colours alternately k21, ssk, turn.
36
35
34

Continue heel using colours alternately, working white

33
32
31

stitch with blue and blue with white. 30

29

Row 32: P8, p2tog, turn. 28

27

Row 33: K9, ssk, turn.

26
25
24

Row 34: P10, p2tog, turn. 22

23

Continue in this fashion until all stitches are worked

21
20
19

back onto one needle (21sts). K10 stitches using 18

17

colours alternately. Transfer instep stitches back onto

16
15
14

one needle. Use spare needle and continue as follows: 12

13

Next round: Work from Round 62 of main chart. First

11
10
9

needle - work rem 11 heel stitches as sts 1-11 according 8

7

to Main Chart. Knit up 17 sts along side of heel, using

6
5
4

colour indicated on chart for sts 12-24 then sts 1-4 2

3

(28 sts on 1st needle). Second needle - work sts 19-24,

1

sts 1-24 and sts 1-7 from Main Chart (37 sts on 2nd
Contredanse Key
needle). Third needle – knit up 17 sts along side of heel
using colour indicated by chart for sts 22-24, then sts
1-14, work sts 15-24 of chart across rem 10 heel sts (27
sts on 3rd needle).
Round 63: Work round as set to last 3 sts of 1st needle,
k2tog, k1. Second needle - follow pattern as set. Third
needle, k1, ssk, pattern to end.

24 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Contredanse Socks pg22.indd 24 10/17/2012 8:16:08 AM

 Contredanse Heel Chart

433a Fullarton Road, Highgate S.A. 5063 • ph. 08 8271 4670

Contredanse Toe Chart

Needle Nook
Proud stockists of major brands
Patons Shepherd Filatura di Crosa
Peter Pan Debbie Bliss Heirloom
Sirdar Cleckheaton Sublime
Naturally Jo Sharp plus so much more
• Patterns • Needles • Accessories
• Cross Stitch, Tapestry and Haberdashery supplies
• Knitting and Crochet classes in store.

Round 64: Knit, following pattern. Mail Order & phone Sales welcome.
Visit us at www.needlenook.com.au
Continue working the shaping as in rounds 63 and 64. and use our secure order form.
The last stitch on the 1st needle and the first stitch on
the 3rd needle should be worked in Mt Canigou (blue)
until 72 stitches remain. Continue the pattern to Round
118 of chart. The sock from where the stitches were
picked up at the heel should measure 14cm to fit a
23cm foot. For a longer foot work from the Extra Motifs
chart so that the sock measures 15cm for a 24cm foot or
16cm for a 25cm foot.
Work braid rounds A&B at Round 119.
Shape toe
Arrange stitches so there are 18 on each of needles 1
and 3 and 36 on needle 2. Change to Castellan (purple).
Follow Toe Chart beginning round with stitch 19.
Round 1: Work to last 3 stitches on 1st needle, k2tog,
k1. 2nd needle - k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 3rd
needle - k1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Continue working these shapings until 36 sts remain and
then work Round 1 only until 8 sts remain. Thread yarn
through remaining sts and fasten end securely. Work
another sock in the same manner. Tidy ends and block.
Extra Motifs
Catherine was originally from Sydney, but
spent many years in the Blue Mountains.
She now lives on a smallholding near
the ocean in New Zealand. She has been
designing for Renaissance Dyeing for a
few years now and loves their natural
dye colours and the soft warmth of the
Poll Dorset wool.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 25

Y28 Contredanse Socks pg22.indd 25 10/17/2012 8:17:16 AM

 Yarn
Yarn kindly
kindly
donated
donated by
by
Yarn
Yarn Glorious
Glorious Yarn.
Yarn.
Yarn kindly donated by
26 YARN Issue No 28
Yarn Glorious Yarn
www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Circular Medallion Wrap pg26.indd 26 10/17/2012 8:18:57 AM

 Circular
Medallion Wrap
By Jude Skeers
Yarn Schoppel Wolle Zauberball 75% wool, 25% nylon
(100g/3.5oz, 420m/462yds, 20wpi, equiv Aust 4ply, CYCA
#1, Sock weight) 2 balls Colour Tropical Fish (only 130g
used, you could use 1 ball in Tropical Fish and 30g in a solid
colour that matches one of the colours in the Zauberball)
Needles and notions 10mm (US 15) circular needle
80cm long; 10mm (US 15) double pointed needles;
tapestry needle; 4 stitch markers; 2 stitch holders.
Measurements Top to Bottom (also side to side as it is a
circle) 95cm (37.5inch)
Abbreviations k2tog=knit 2 sts together; pm=place
marker; rp=replace marker in new position.
Notes The decrease pattern to make the circle is: *Knit to
marker, remove marker, k4, K2tog, replace marker, repeat
from * until end of round. It ensures a nice, smooth circle,
with no weak points. This jacket can be worn two ways. It
can be worn with the armholes to the top (this displays the
full length of the jacket) or you can wear it upside down
with the armholes to the bottom (this makes the wrap
length shorter and the collar more substantial).

Wrap
Using cable cast on and 10mm (US 15) circular needle
loosely cast on 300 sts. Join to work in the round being
careful not to twist stitches.
Rounds 1-4: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 5: K2tog, pm, K73, K2tog, pm, K73, K2tog, pm,
K73, K2tog, pm, K73.
Round 6 +: *k to marker, remove marker, k4, K2tog, rm,
repeat from * to end of round. Continue working this
round, decreasing 4 sts each round until 120 sts remain.
Arm Hole Round
Slip 20 stitches onto a stitch holder, cast on 20 stitches,
k20, slip 20 stitches onto a stitch holder, cast on 20
stitches, k60.
Next Round:*K2tog, pm, k28, repeat from * to end of

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 27

Y28 Circular Medallion Wrap pg26.indd 27 10/17/2012 2:14:25 PM

 28 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Circular Medallion Wrap pg26.indd 28 10/17/2012 8:24:28 AM

 round [116sts]. Continue working round, decreasing
4 sts each round as before, ie, *k to marker, remove
marker, k4, K2tog, rm, repeat from * until 62 sts remain.
Centre
Change to double pointed needles when the knitting
becomes too tight to knit on the circular needle.
Round 1: *K10, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [57sts]
Round 2: *K9, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [52sts]
Round 3: *K8, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [47sts]
Round 4: *K7, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [42sts]
Round 5: *K6, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [37sts]
Round 6: *K5, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [32sts]
Round 7: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times [26sts]
Round 8: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times [20sts]
Round 9: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times [14sts]
Round 10: *K2tog, repeat from * 6 times [7sts]
Cast Off.

Finishing
To work Arm Hole Band: place 20 sts from stitch holder
on 10mm (US 15) double pointed needles, pick up 22
sts from the arm hole cast on edge [42sts].
Rounds 1-4: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of round.
Cast off using double cast off method: K1, *Knit into
the next stitch, do not slip off the stitch from the left
needle, cast off on the right needle, Knit into the same
stitch, drop the stitch, and cast off, repeat from * all the
way round.

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2-day, 4-day and 6-day Phone: (07) 3300 6491
options available. Full details available.
Image below: Detail of work by CONTEXTART-FORUM tutor Carolyn Sullivan

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 29

AWP_CTA2013Advert_FinalR.indd 1 11/10/12 7:09 PM

Y28 Circular Medallion Wrap pg26.indd 29 10/17/2012 8:41:17 AM

 30 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Socks a la carte pg30.indd 30 10/17/2012 8:33:29 AM

 SOCKS á la
carte Colorwork
Book Extract
Yarn SWTC Tofutsies 50% Superwash Wool, 25% Soysilk,
22.5% Cotton, 2.5% Chitin (100g/3.5oz, 425m/467yds,
20wpi, equiv Aust 4ply, CYCA #1, Sock Weight) You will
only need 2 balls for the colourwork, however, we used
3 balls to give more variety: 1 ball Colour #936 TOEffeta
(pink); 1 ball Colour #944 TOErrestrial (black); 1 ball Colour
#929 Power Stripes (variegated).
Needles and notions 2.25mm (US 1) circulars
or double pointed needles – whichever you prefer;
tapestry needle
Tension 32sts per 10cm (4inch) on 2.25mm (US 1)
needles in st st
Notes If you need to increase or decrease for a
custom fit, the cuff is worked in multiples of 8sts,
the body in multiples of 2 and the heel/foot is only
striped, so it is easy enough to make changes there.
For more information on the book, see the Book
Review section in this issue.

An extract from SOCKS a la carte by Jonelle

Raffino and Katherine Cade, in which socks
are broken into three main parts, being
the cuff, the body and the heel/foot, which
you mix and match from the selections, to
make your own perfect sock design.

We have chosen to feature Melissa’s Mock Miters (by

Melissa Deutsch Scott) for the cuff, with Fishscales for the
body and Striped Dutch Heel with Toesies Toe for the foot.

Cuff (Melissa’s Mock Miters)

Cast on 64 sts with CC1. Divide sts on 2 circular needles
– 32 sts on needle 1 and 32 sts on needle 2, or you may
prefer to use double pointed needles. Join, being careful
not to twist. Place marker at beg of rnd. Alternate CC1 and
MC every 2 rnds throughout.
Rnd 1: Knit
Free Pattern
Rnd 2: Purl Simple Lace Cowl
Rnd 3: *Sl 1, k7; rep from * to end. 50g skein of Angel Touch Organic Baby Alpaca
Colour is Naturally Dyed Be My Valentine
Rnd 4: *Sl 1, p7; rep from * to end. Available exclusively at
Rnd 5: *K1, sl 1, k6; rep from * to end. 4mm circular needle (40cm long) or dpns
Rnd 6: *P1, sl 1, p6; rep from * to end. Pattern:
Rnd 7: * Sl 1, k1, sl 1, k5; rep from * to end. Cast on 90 sts, join in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Rnd 8: *Sl 1, p1, sl 1, p5; rep from * to end. Round 1: K3, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4* repeat to last st, k1
Round 2: K all sts
Rnd 9: *K1, sl 1, k1, sl 1, k4; rep from * to end. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until cowl measures 25cm from cast
Rnd 10: *P1, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p4; rep from * to end. on edge. Cast off all sts loosely. Weave in loose ends. Block.
Rnd 11: *Sl 1, k1, sl1, k1, sl 1, k3; rep from * to end.
Rnd 12: *Sl 1, p1, sl1, p1, sl1, p3; rep from * to end.
Rnd 13: *k1, sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1, sl 1, k2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 14: *P1, sl1, p1, sl1, p1, sl 1, p2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 15: *K1, sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1, sl 1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 16: *P1, sl 1, p1, sl1, p1, sl1, p1, sl 1; rep from * to end.

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 Rep Rnds 1-16 a total of 2 times. Begin selected body Gusset
pattern (the book has 20 to choose from, with the design Resume working circularly, place marker at beginning
featured here being Fishscales). of rnd. Alternate MC and CC1 every 4 rnds until start of
toe shaping.
Body (Fishscales) Rnd 1: With needle 1 (Heel) and CC2, knit across Heel
Rnds 1, 3, 5 & 7: *With MC, k3; with CC1, k1; rep from * flap, pick up and knit 16 sts from the side of the heel
around. flap plus 1 st in gusset corner. With needle 2 (instep),
Rnds 2, 4, 6 & 8: *With MC, k1; with CC1, k1; with MC, k2; work in pattern.
rep from * around. Rnd 2: With needle 1, pick up 1 st in gusset corner and
Continue working rounds until sock body is the desired 16 sts from opposite side of heel flap. Knit rest of heel
length. Begin selected heel/foot pattern (the book has sts to end. With needle 2, work in pattern.
14 to choose from, with the design featured here being Rnd 3: With needle 1, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
Striped Dutch Heel with Toesies Toe). k1. With needle 2, work in pattern.
Rnd 4: Work in pattern.
Heel (Striped Dutch Heel) Rep rnds 3 and 4 until 64 sts remain.
Alternate MC and CC1 every 2 rows. Working on 32
Heel sts only, leaving remaining instep sts on hold: Foot (Toesies Toes)
Row 1 (RS): * Sl 1, k1; rep from * to end. Work even until foot measures approx 5cm (2inch) less
Rows 2 & 4: Sl 1, purl to end. than desired foot length.
Row 3: Sl 1, * sl 1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Baby Toe (Right Foot)
Rep Rows 1-4 a total of 8 times. With CC1, k7 from beg of needle 2 (instep), place next
Turn Heel 50 sts on holder, cast on 4 sts to bridge gap, knit rem 7
Row 1 (RS): With CC1, k21, ssk, turn. sts -18 sts. Knit these sts until toe measures 3cm (just
Row 2: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, turn. over 2inch).
Row 3: Sl 1, k10, ssk, turn. Next Rnd: *K2tog; rep from * to end – 9 sts.
Row 4: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, turn. Next Rnd: K2tog around, knitting last 3 sts tog – 4 sts.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 12 sts remain. Cut yarn and draw through sts. Weave in ends.

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 Next Toe
Join MC and knit next 5 sts from each side of sock. Pick
up 4 sts to bridge gap on each side between Toes –
18 sts. Knit these sts until toe measures 1inch (3cm).
Finish same as Baby Toe.
Middle Toe
Join CC1 and knit 5 next sts from each side of sock.
Pick up 4 sts to bridge gap on each side between Toes
– 18 sts. Knit these sts until toe measures 2inch (5cm). KNITTING YARNS
Finish same as Baby Toe. DIRECT FROM THE MANUFACTURER
Next toe
With MC, work same as Middle Toe.
Big toe
Place rem 20 sts on needles, join CC1 and knit. Pick up
4 sts to bridge gap between Toes – 24 sts.
Knit these sts until toe measures 2inch (5cm). Finish
same as Baby Toe (will end with 6 sts).
Toe (Left Foot) Bendigo Woollen Mills is Australia’s largest
Repeat for Left Foot, using last 7 sts of instep for baby hand knitting yarn mail order manufacturer.
toe to reverse toe position and being careful to place Send for a free shade card or shop online.
remaining toes in correct order across.

Finishing
Weave in yarn ends, picking up any holes around toes
and closing them as you weave your yarn ends in. 4 LANSELL STREET, BENDIGO, VIC. 3550
PH ORDERS 03 5442 4600 FAX 24 HRS 03 5442 2918
www.bendigowoollenmills.com.au

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 33

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 Working with
Students
By Bernadette Chad

Bernadette Chad, who has knitted and crocheted for

over 5 decades, initially learnt to knit at age 7 with meat
skewers and string. At age 16, still at high school and in
the Mary Quant 60’s, she taught herself to crochet the
many designs she saw in the blossoming boutiques of
Sydney but could not afford on her four hour wage as a
Saturday morning Woolworth’s sales girl.

Bernadette has since retired after a 35 year career as

a teacher in the Public Education system and industrial
officer in the University Tertiary sector. Now as an
Inner City NSW Knitters Guild member, Bernadette
often receives requests from design students to help
make knitted pieces to include in their collections.

Bernadette’s first commissioned piece was a knitted

full length backless dress to a design of Charlotte
O’Carrigan, a 2010 Sydney TAFE final year Design
Student. Charlotte’s full collection was on the runway in
the May 2011 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia,
with the addition of another of Charlotte’s designs
made by Bernadette, a cotton crocheted loop stitch
backless mini.

Bernadette then made four knitted components

incorporated into designs of Kaylene Milner, a 2011
Sydney TAFE final year Design Student. These were 2nd
from left, burnt orange wool / silk dress with cable and
i-cord; 3rd from left, burnt orange and dark grey sleeves
with i-cord embellishment sewn to a soft leather
bodice; 6th from left, burnt orange flair at base of grey
flannel dress; and 7th from left, cable neck piece needle Peplum made to Kaylene Milner’s design
felted to top of dress.

2011 Final Year

Collection of
Kaylene Milner

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 Kaylene’s collection was Crocheted
subsequently on the runway loop stitch
in the May 2012 Mercedes- front view
Benz Fashion Week Crocheted loop
Australia, along with two stitch back view
more of Kaylene’s designs
made by Bernadette.

In May 2012 Kaylene won

a three month internship in
New York with Diane Von
Furstenburg. She surely is a
name to watch in the future.

Bernadette has also made

three crocheted garments Kaylene’s designed cable and i-cord ‘vine’ jumper
in abseiling cord to the
specifications of 2011 UTS
final year Design Student
Danielle Kremer. She has
also made a ‘man-jacket’
knitted in hand cut leather
for Eloise Panetta, a 2012
final year Whitehouse
Institute of Design Student.

Bernadette has found the

challenge of putting into
reality the creative designs
of these students very
rewarding. Success in the
final outcome she believes
has been through:

• effective communication
with the respective
students as to what they
wanted to achieve; and

• years of tried and

tested knit and crochet
techniques that
Bernadette has pooled as
a resource.

Bernadette currently
is liaising with 3 design
students whose creations she
is sure will yet again provide
exciting opportunities to
apply the traditional ‘gentle’
arts of knitting and crochet
to the young and vital
fashion scene.

Continued over the page.

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Y28 Student helper pg34.indd 35 10/17/2012 8:38:11 AM

 Photography: James Broadhurst
Hair & Makeup: Kaori Harigae
Model: Jennifer Gilmore @ Chic
Designer: Kaylene Milner
www.kaylenemilner.com

36 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Student helper pg34.indd 36 10/17/2012 8:38:33 AM

 Baby’s Cotton Sunhat
By Lorraine Schwartz

Yarn kindly donated by Woolybutt.

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 38 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Crochet Hat pg37.indd 38 10/17/2012 8:47:22 AM

 Baby’s Cotton
Sunhat
By Lorraine from Woolybutt Knitting
Yarn Heirloom 8ply Cotton 100% cotton (50g/1.75oz,
120m/132yds, 12wpi, equiv Aust 8ply, CYCA #3, DK or Light
Worsted) 1 ball for small size, 2 balls large size OR pink 605
+ Lime 689 for girl and Lime 689 + Blue 602 for boy.
Hooks and notions 4mm (US 6 or G) hook
Size baby (child)

Hat Body
Mark first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1: ch2, 6dc in 2nd ch from hook (6dc), join with a
slst into second ch of ch2.
Rnd 2: ch1, 2dc in each st around (12dc), join with a
slst into first ch1.
Rnd 3: ch1, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st around, join
with a slst into first ch1. (18dc)
Rnd 4: ch1, 1dc in each of next 2sts, 2dc in next st
around, join with a slst into first ch1. (24dc)
Rnd 5: ch1, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st
around, join with a slst into first ch1. (30dc)
Rnd 6: ch1, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st
around, join with a slst into first ch1. (36dc)
Rnd 7: ch1, 1dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next st
around, join with a slst into first ch1. (42dc)
Rnd 8: ch1, 1dc in each of next 6sts, 2dc in next st
around, join with a slst into first ch1. (48dc)
Rnd 9: ch1, 1dc in each of next 7sts, 2dc in next st
around, join with a slst into first ch1. (54dc)
PTY LTD
Rnd 10: ch1, 1dc in each of next 8sts, 2dc in next st
around, join with a slst into first ch1. (60dc)
Rnds 11 & 12 (larger child size only)
Rnd 11: ch1,1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st around, join
with a slst into first ch1. (66dc)
Rnd 12: ch1, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st around,
join with a slst into first ch1. (72dc)
Both sizes
Rnd 13 and subsequent rnds: ch1, 1dc in each stitch
all around, ending round with a slst into first ch1 until
crown measures 12 (14cm) or 4.75 (5.5inch)

Brim
Rnd 1: work this round in back loops (i.e. by crocheting
through the back loop), ch1, 1dc in each st around. Join
with a slst into first ch1. PURELY AUSTRALIAN ALPACA.
Rnd 2: ch1, 2dc in each st around, joining with a slst New colour range now available in 2, 4 & 8ply.
into first ch1. 120dc (144dc). Knitting patterns and kits by Australian Designer Jo Nathan
Rnd 3: ch 1, 1dc in each st around, joining with a slst
into first ch1. Visit Our Website: www.thehouseofalpaca.com.au
Repeat Rnd 3 until brim is 4.5 (5cm) or 1.75 (2inch) wide. or EMAIL: [email protected]
Join in beg. Ch1 and fasten off at end of last rnd. Catch brim PO Box 107, Crookwell NSW 2583
of hat using a motif, flower or pretty button, if desired. Australian Owned Australian Grown

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 39

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 Australia’s Young Talent
By ArtWear team from AWI Media Releases

No doubt most readers are already familiar with the what is possible with merino. Students were asked to
Woolmark® brand and many would have heard of AWI. draw and interpret their version of “Modern Australia”
Australian Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI) was established in a garment. Australia’s multicultural population,
in 2001 with the aim to increase the demand for wool bushfires, floods, sunsets and coastlines are all featured
and to promote wool as a sustainable and profitable in the winning Wool4Skool designs for 2012.
fibre. Part of this function therefore, is to invest in The 240 final student entries were judged by fabric,
research and development, marketing and innovation design and fashion experts. The overall winning student
and to that end, in 2007 AWI became the owner of the design came from Brooke Pearce of the Southern
Woolmark® brand. AWI promotes wool in a variety of Highlands Christian School, Bowral, NSW.  The design
ways, including reaching out to the next generation of is inspired by Australia’s multicultural nature and
fashion designers through the Wool4Skool campaign. features a colourful reference to the molecule of life,
Planned within the classroom syllabus for year 9 + DNA. Her design will now be made into a finished
10 Design and Technology students, the Wool4Skool garment by leading fashion designer Jonathon Ward
campaign offers a real-life fashion design experience and earns Brooke $2500 in prize money plus a fashion
using fine Australian wool. A number of schools around shoot of the winning garment.
Australia received merino fabric sample packs to help We hope you enjoy this little viewing of some of
the students understand and draw inspiration from the entries.

Creator: Kate Donaldson

THE PRELIMINARY SKETCHES:

VICTORIAN
THE FINAL LOOK: WINNER

40 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 AWI pg40.indd 40 10/17/2012 8:48:07 AM

 NEW SOUTH WALES AND
OVERALLWINNER

Wool 4 Skool
Wool 4 Skool
Wool 4 Skool
Creator: Brooke Pearce
Subscribe to Woolshed @ Manuka newsletter.
School name: Southern Highlands Christian School
Debbie Bliss | ADDI Needles | Noro | JO SHARP | Noni B | Sublime
Filatura Di Crosa | HEIRLOOM | Louisa Harding | Supreme Possum
Year of schooling: Year 10 Online Supersocke | EMU Ridge Ugs | MISSION FALLS | Touch Yarns
Final Patterns & Classes in Knitting & Crochet

Name of the design: D.N.A: Life’s Blueprint

Australian theme: Neighbourly Friendship

Garment’s Season: Autumn

Description of the design concept:

For my design “D.N.A: Life’s Blueprint” my inspirations come from my interest

in the DNA code,The fashion and Australian issues. These issues include racism of
today’s society andFinal
crisis’s such as the Queensland floods. I chose my theme to
Look
be that of “Neighbourly Friendship” because of the whole of Australia coming
together in a time of need and helping the people of the Queensland floods. I
think this is Our Modern Australia because we are now going through hard
times and we are working together to get over them. I also think Australia is
now a Multicultural country with a lot less racism. Even though there is still
discrimination, modern Australia means to me the people of Australia working
together towards a goal of being an excepting community no matter who it is
Wool 4 Skool

or what it is. It is because of these reasons that I made the dress to be

designed in the image of the DNA structure to represent us all being
individually different but all the same. Community is one. Modern Australia is
working on this Blueprint; “Life’s Blueprint.”
Continued over the page.
“D.N.A”
www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 41

Description of the garment designs produced:

Y28 AWI pg40.indd 41

My garment is based on the structure of DNA. The bust represents10/17/2012
a pentose 8:48:50 AM
 WESTERN AUSTRALIAN WINNER SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WINNER

Creator: Natalie Fretton Creator: Samantha Farrell

 
Please see examples of good entries from 2010’s Wool4Skool TM Competition Please see examples of good entries from 2010’s Wool4SkoolTM Competition
 

 
 

Please see examples of good entries from 2010’s Wool4SkoolTM Competition

 
Please see examples of good entries from 2010’s Wool4Skool TM Competition

42 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

 
 

   

Y28 AWI pg40.indd 42 10/17/2012 8:49:33 AM

 Circular
Medallion
Jacket
By Jude Skeers

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 44 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 childs square jacket pg43.indd 44 10/17/2012 8:52:08 AM

 Circular
sm * repeat 4 times [188sts]
Round 10: *K2tog, K48, K2tog, sm, K2tog, K38, K2tog,
sm * repeat 4 times [180sts]

Medallion Round 12: *K2tog, K46, K2tog, sm, K2tog, K36, K2tog,
sm * repeat 4 times [172sts]
Round 14: *K2tog, K44, K2tog, sm, K2tog, K34, K2tog,

Jacket sm * repeat 4 times [164sts]

Round 16: *K2tog, K40, K2tog, sm, K2tog, K30, K2tog,
By Jude Skeers sm * repeat 4 times [156sts]
Round 18: *K42, K2tog, sm, * 4 times [152sts]
Yarn Waratah Fibres 50% Wool, 50% Silk (350m/385yds,
100g/3.5oz, 17wpi, equivalent Australian 5 ply, CYCA #2,
Round 19 +: *k to marker, remove marker, k4, K2tog,
Sport Weight) 1 Skein Colour Jacaranda rm (replace marker), repeat from * to end of round.
Needles and notions 6mm (US 10) circular needle 80cm; Continue working as in round 19, *k to marker, remove
6mm (US 10) circular needle 40cm; 6mm (US 10) straight marker, k4, K2tog, rm*, do this until 52sts remain.
needles; tapestry needle; stitch holder. Centre Back
Measurements Top to bottom 40cm (15.75inch); front Change to 40cm circular needle and then double
side panels 18cm (7inch) each; sleeve edge to sleeve edge
pointed needles when the knitting becomes too tight to
(across back) 40cm (15.75inch)
work on the circular needle.
Abbreviations k2tog=knit 2 sts together; pm=place
marker; rp=replace marker in new position; sm=slip marker. Round 1: *K8, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [47sts]
Round 2: *K7, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [42sts]
Back Round 3: *K6, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [37sts]
Using the 6mm (US 10) 80cm circular needle Round 4: *K5, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times [32sts]
provisionally cast-on 220 sts. Join to work in the round Round 5: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times [26sts]
being careful not to twist stitches. Round 6: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times [20sts]
Round 1: K Round 7: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times [14sts]
Round 2: K2tog, K56, K2tog, pm, K2tog, K46, K2tog, pm, Round 8: *K2tog, repeat from * 6 times [7sts]
K2tog, K56 K2tog, pm, K2tog, K46 K2tog, pm [212sts] Break yarn and thread through remaining 7 stitches,
Rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17: K pulling tight and weaving through work to secure.
Round 4: *K2tog, K54, K2tog, sm, K2tog, K44, K2tog,
sm * repeat 4 times [204sts] Front Squares
The marker stays in place for the first 18 rounds (slip This pattern is repeated 4 times to make 4 squares.
the marker as you come to it) to form a mitre square. Using provisional cast on and 6mm (US 10) 40cm
Round 6: *K2tog, K52, K2tog, sm, K2tog, K42, K2tog, circular needle loosely cast on 100 sts. Join to work in
sm * repeat 4 times [196sts] the round being careful not to twist stitches.
Round 8: *K2tog, K50, K2tog, sm, K2tog, K40, K2tog, Round 1: K25, pm, K25, pm, K25, pm, K25, pm
Arm Hole

3 Needle Cast off 10 sts

(for neck)
25 sts 25 sts 25 sts
25

Arm Hole

60 sts
25 sts

Top
25

25

25 25

25
25

Graft Graft
Side
3 Needle Cast off

25
Side
25 sts
3 N.C.O.

25 25
25

25

Bottom
25 sts 10 25 sts 25
25

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 The marker stays in place for the first 18 rounds to form Round 20: *K2tog, repeat from * 6 times (7sts)
a mitre square. Break yarn and thread through remaining 7 stitches,
Round 2: *K2tog, K21, K2tog, sm, repeat from * 4 pulling tight and weaving through work to secure.
times [92sts]
Rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, 11: K Making Up
Round 4: *K2tog, K19, K2tog, sm, repeat from * 4 Left Side
times [84sts] With 6mm (US 10) needle pick up 25 stitches from one
Round 6: *K2tog, K17, K2tog, sm, repeat from * 4 side of a small square. Repeat for another square. Graft
times [76sts] these 50 stitches (see Stitch Guide) to join and form a
Round 8: *K2tog, K15, K2tog, sm, repeat from * 4 rectangle.
times [68sts] Right Side
Round 10: *K2tog, K13, K2tog, sm, repeat from * 4 Same as left side.
times (60sts) Left Side Seam
Round 12: *K2tog, K11, K2tog, sm, repeat from * 4 With 6mm (US10) needle pick up 25 stitches from the
times (52sts) side of the left front and with another 6mm (US 10)
Remove markers this round. needle pick up 25 stitches from back. Cast off using a 3
Round 13: *K8, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times (47sts) needle cast off method (see Stitch Guide).
Round 14: *K7, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times (42sts) Right Side Seam
Round 15: *K6, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times (37sts) Same as left side seam.
Round 16: *K5, k2tog, repeat from * 5 times (32sts) Left Shoulder Seam
Round 17: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times (26sts) With 6mm (US10) needle pick up 25 stitches from the
Round 18: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times (20sts) top of the left front and with another 6mm (US 10)
Round 19: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * 6 times (14sts) needle pick up 25 stitches from top back for shoulder.

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 Cast off using a 3 needle cast off method.
Back Neck
Leave 10 stitches on a stitch holder for
later.
Right Shoulder Seam
Same as left shoulder seam.
Armhole Bands (work both the same)
Using 6mm, 40cm circular, pick up 25 from
the side front and 25 stitches from the back.
Round 1: K
During the first round pick up any extra
stitches required to fill in the gaps near
the seams (keeping an even number of
stitches).
Rounds 2-4: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end
of round.
Cast off using the following loose cast off
method: *Knit into the next stitch, do not
slip off the stitch from the left needle, cast
off on the right needle, Knit into the same
stitch, drop the stitch, and cast off, P1, cast
off, repeat from * all the way round.

Front and Bottom Band

Using 6mm 40cm circular pick up all the
stitches around the outside of the garment,
including the 10 from the holder.
Round 1: K
During the first round make extra stitches to
fill any gaps between the square medallions.
Rounds 2-4: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end
of round.
Cast off using double cast off method: K1,
*Knit into the next stitch, do not slip off the
stitch from the left needle, cast off on the
right needle, Knit into the same stitch, drop
the stitch, and cast off, repeat from * all the
way round.

Provisional cast on (crochet) Using waste yarn, make

a slip knot and put onto a crochet hook. With the hook in
your right hand and the knitting needle in your left, tension
the yarn in your left hand and keep working yarn behind the
needle. *With hook, pick up yarn and pull through loop on
hook. (You have cast on 1 stitch.) Keeping hook in front of
the needle move the yarn around behind needle and repeat
from * until you have cast on the number of sts required.
Make a few extra ch and fasten off. Work main yarn into sts on needle. To expose
the live stitches, undo the last st of the provisional chain, ‘unzip’ the chain and put
live sts on a needle.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 47

Y28 childs square jacket pg43.indd 47 10/17/2012 8:54:59 AM

 Another interesting aspect of the shift in meaning
has been the use of terms such as Mock Fair Isle and
Fair Isle Technique. Pam Dawson in The Encyclopedia
of Knitting (1984) writes “Mock Fair Isle knitting, on
the other hand, is as new as the technology which made
random-dyed yarn possible. The use of one random-

Fair Isle: What’s

coloured yarn to replace several yarns in contrasting
colours is an exciting way of adapting old methods to
create new efforts.” Mock Fair Isle is more accurately

in a Name titled Jacquard knitting. In his recent book Knitting

with the Color Guys, Kaffe Fassett writes that all his
By Jude Skeers two coloured stranded patterns can be knitted with
‘Fair Isle technique’. Many of Fassett’s patterns use this
Knitting with two or more colour yarns dates to the random-coloured yarn technique.
earliest times of hand knitting. An example of this was
a child’s sock from between 400-600 AD, that was The clearest and most detailed description of
found on a site in Egypt. Coloured knitting comes in a traditional Fair Isle patterning came in A History of
variety of techniques, including stripes, slipped stitch, Hand Knitting by Richard Rutt (1987) “....the early
intarsia, double knitting, embroidery and coloured patterns were all strictly horizontal bands of motifs,
stranded knitting. rarely each more than 15 rows deep. Bands of large
motifs were divided by bands of smaller motifs, half
While Fair Isle and Scandinavian are the best known or less the depth of the larger one. The separation of
of the coloured traditions, most knitting cultures have approximately circular motifs by four diagonal corners
developed their own style and patterns. They can be produced the familiar so-called OXO designs. (The X
found in regions around the world: the Andes in South mostly had a vertical line through its centre.) A second
America, the Cowichan/Salish in Canada, Albania early style of small geometrically patches covering the
and Bulgaria in the Balkans, Arabia, Egypt and most whole fabric has been called ‘diced’.”
European countries.
Problems and confusion can result from common
Fair Isle patterns and garments were popularised use of the title Fair Isle for coloured stranded knitted.
in the 1920’s after the Prince of Wales played golf Until 2011 in the knitting section of the Sydney Royal
at St Andrews wearing a Fair Isle jumper. According Easter Show, Jacquard garments were entered in the
to Richard Rutt in A History of Hand Knitting (1987) Traditional Fair Isle class. This resulted in garments
Fair Isle become part of the Jazz age. He wrote, “Since being disqualified and removed from the class. A
then Fair Isle has never gone out of fashion. Today group of knitters approached the organisers in an
almost any multicoloured knitting is called Fair Isle.” effort to find a solution to this problem. In 2012 a new
The practice of using Fair Isle as a generic term was class, Jacquard, was added by the Royal Agricultural
well established by 1938 when the American author Society hand knitting section. The Fair Isle Class
Mary Thomas wrote, “Colour knitting in spite of its being described as, “Traditional Fair Isle should be
long and glorious past has become universally known as elastic as a single strand knitted fabric. No more
as Fair Isle.” than two colours in one row. Stranding method plus
occasional weaving for long floats. Traditional small
The English author James Norbury wrote in 1962, “... border and large patterns (horizontal or vertical), or
although there is a tendency to call all forms of colour all over patterns.” The Jacquard Class being described
knitting ‘Fair Isle Knitting’, to do so is quite fallacious.” as, “Worked similarly to Fair Isle with yarns stranded
American author Barbara Walker wrote in 1968, “This or woven at the base of the work. Designs can be
type of knitting is generically termed Fair Isle knitting, geometric or stylised natural forms e.g. flowers,
although such a general application of the term is animals. Some of the stitches can be in pattern rather
decidedly inaccurate.” The use of Fair Isle as a generic than flat stocking stitch.”
term is the reality, despite the best efforts of writers
such as Norbury and Walker (the main problem being Traditionally patterns were not written, but were
that many knitting writers perpetuate the fallacy). taught orally and through working samples. The

48 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Tech Talk pg48.indd 48 10/17/2012 8:55:55 AM

 advent of the publication of knitting patterns threw
up the challenge of having to give traditional patterns
a title. This was not a problem when patterns were
handed down by word of mouth. This problem with
language has been a real challenge when it came to
coloured knitting.

Can all coloured stranded knitting be accurately

described as Fair Isle or Fair Style? Obviously not, to
do so is to devalue all the other traditions of coloured
stranded knitting. As a result of the way the English
language evolves, for some knitters and publishers in
the English speaking world the meaning/usage of the
title, Fair Isle, has shifted. Through common usage
the title has become the generic name for coloured
stranded knitting. It is a good indication of the slippage
of the term in the language.

Why has this misnomer continued? Blame it on the

evolution of the English Language. What do you think?
Do we attempt to re-educate knitters on the correct
titles for coloured or just accept the easy way out and
call all stranded coloured knitting Fair Isle?

Stranded colourwork
When following a chart, work
each square of the chart as
one stitch. On a knit row
read the chart from right to
left, on a purl row from left
to right. There will usually be
only two colours in each row
so you can hold each colour
of yarn in a different hand 1
(1). To use this stranding
method, carry the colour not
in use loosely along the back
of the work. Work each stitch
in the colour indicated on the
chart, using your right hand or
your left hand as necessary.
There will be strands of yarn
lying across the back of your
work (2). These should always Looking for
Something
lie horizontal. When working 2
across a large number of sts
in the main colour, use the

Special?
working yarn to (3) catch the
other colour on the WS every
five stitches or so to avoid long
floats. Keep worked stitches
evenly spread on the right
needle to help maintain Launching in 2013…
an even tension. Loose
stitches can be corrected later keep watching this
space for details!
on, whereas tight stitches
will pucker and be difficult or 3
impossible to correct.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 49

Y28 Tech Talk pg48.indd 49 10/17/2012 8:57:35 AM

 1
yarn related yumminess . . .
Signature Needle Arts offers precision
machined knitting needles, available in
single point, double pointed, and circular
yum
styles. Knitters can customise Signature needles
to reflect their knitting style. Available online at
signatureneedlarts.com and select retail stores.

2
You can’t go past Kathys Fibres Gemtree
roving. This hand dyed colourway is
21.5micron and part of the regular
range. It is fantastic to spin or felt
with or simply knit from the roving,
as per instructions on the website

yum
www.kathysfibres.com Kathy dyes her
regular colourways in matching hand
painted silk and often in yarn as well
(although she also does limited edition
colourways to add variety).
Call (08) 8389 6417 for more information.

yarn related
yumminess . . .
yum
3 As well as beautiful yarns, Michelle at The
Knitter’s Studio has a great range of bag handles,
accessories, knitter’s tools and of course, these
wonderful Pollika shawl pins. Most pin lengths
are around 12 to 13cm (4.75-5inch), making
them the perfect size for shawl or cardie closures.
They are also suitable for adding finesse to plain
bags and hats. See www.theknittersstudio.com.au
or call (02) 9428 5296 for more information.

50 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 Yarn Review pg50.indd 50 10/17/2012 8:58:29 AM

 yarnmarket

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www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 51

Y28 yarn MARKET pg51.indd 51 10/17/2012 11:50:52 AM

 stitch guide

Wrap and turn (short-row wraps) On a knit row: yf, sl 1, yb, return sl st to left-
Knit stitches abbreviations hand needle, turn and work back across without working wrapped st. On a purl row,
*, ** repeat directions following * or ** as many yb, sl 1, yf, return sl st to left-hand needle, turn work and work back across without
times as indicated working wrapped st.
alt alternate Working wrap with st When working a knit row, insert needle from below into
CC contrast colour the wrap and k wrap together with the st as directed.
cm centimetre(s)
dec(s) decrease(s)/decreasing
dpn(s) double-pointed needle(s)
foll following
inc(s) increase(s)/increasing
g st garter stitch: k all rows (back and forth); in
rounds, work 1 round knit, next round purl 1 2 3
K, k knit
k2tog knit 2 sts together (decs 1 st; a right-leaning dec)
kfb knit into the front and back of the same st
(incs 1 st)
m metre(s)
m1 make 1 (raised increase)
m1L make 1 leaning left 4 5 6
m1R make 1 leaning right Grafting (Kitchener stitch) Leave a tail about 3 times the width of the knitting to be
MC main colour
grafted. Thread yarn onto a blunt needle. Holding needles parallel with WS of work together,
mm millimetre(s)
work two set-up stitches: (1) put the sewing needle in the first stitch of the front knitting needle
P, p purl
PM, pm place marker purlwise and pull yarn all the way through, keeping the stitch on the knitting needle. Next put
psso pass slipped stitch over the sewing needle knitwise into the first stitch of the back knitting needle and pull all the way
p2tog purl two sts together. through. Keep the stitch on the needle. (2) Put sewing needle knitwise into first stitch of the
RS right side front knitting needle and pull the yarn all the way through. Drop the stitch off the knitting needle.
skp slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (3) Put sewing needle purlwise into the next stitch on the front knitting needle and pull through,
Sl, sl, s slip keeping the stitch on the knitting needle. (4) Put sewing needle purlwise into first stitch on back
Sm, sm slip marker knitting needle and pull yarn through. Drop the stitch off the knitting needle. (5) Put sewing
ssk slip, slip, knit the 2sts tog (left leaning dec) needle knitwise into the next stitch on the back knitting needle and pull through. Do not drop
st(s) stitch(es) the stitch off the knitting needle. (6) Repeat Steps 2–5 until all sts have been worked.
st st stocking stitch: k one row, p one row (flat); k
all rows (circular knitting) I-cord Cast on the required
tbl work st(s) through back of loop(s) number of sts onto a dpn. Knit each 1 2
tog together stitch. Slide the sts to the other end
WS wrong side of the dpn and do not turn. (1) Bring
yb yarn back the working yarn behind the work
yf yarn forward. Makes a st on a K row by moving and (2) knit the sts again. Continue
yarn to front of work under right hand needle.
until cord is required length.
yo yarn over. See also ‘yrn’
yrn yarn round needle. Before a purl st must go
fully around the needle.

Three-needle join/cast off Bring together two pieces of

knitting on separate needles, right sides facing. The near needle
is the ‘front’ needle, and the other the ‘back’ needle. Insert tip of
a third needle knitwise through both the first st on front needle
and the first st on the back needle. Knit the two together onto 1 2 3
the third needle. Repeat the same manoeuvre on the next st
on the front and back needles, giving you two sts on the right
needle. To work as a cast off, simply lift the first stitch
on the right needle and drop it over the second in the usual
manner. Continue this way, knitting two together off the paired
needles and casting sts off right needle, until only one st remains
on right needle. Break thread and draw the last loop closed.
4 5 6
Slip, slip, knit (ssk) (left-leaning decrease) Slip
two sts knitwise, one at a time, from the left needle to the
right needle. Slide the tip of left needle through the front
of the two sts and knit them together. Decreases 1 st.

M1 Insert the left needle from the front to back of the horizontal loop
between the two stitches. Knit the stitch through the back loop as shown.

7 8 9
<< Long-tail cast on 1) Hold the yarn in your left hand as pictured, with the tail on
the left and the working yarn on the right. The tail needs to be about three times longer
than the cast-on edge will be. 2) Grasp the two ends in your palm. 3) Insert the needle
between thumb and finger, under the yarn, and 4) pull yarn towards thumb. 5) Insert
Cable cast on Put 2 sts on left needle as needle knitwise through loop on thumb. 6-7) Use tip of needle to pick up yarn coming
in knitted cast-on. Continue as for knitted off left side of finger. 8) Bring point of needle down through the loop on your thumb and
cast on, but instead of putting the right slip the loop off your thumb and onto the needle. 9) Tighten stitches gently. You have
needle through the stitch, put the right cast on two stitches. Repeat steps until you have the required number of cast-on stitches.
needle between the last two stitches. Note that this also knits the first row and next row should be purled when working st st.

52 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 stitch guide pg52.indd 52 10/17/2012 8:59:18 AM

 stitch guide
Ultimate Yarn Conversion Guide

* The 1 & 2 ply yarns are normally used for open worked, lace patterns so the stitch
count and needle size can vary tremendously depending on the project.
** Steel crochet hook sizes may differ from regular hooks.
This table complied by Michelle Moriarty, referencing various Encyclopedias, USA
CYCA Standards, Knitpicks, Nancy’s Knit Knacks, Ravelry and in consultation with
Amelia Garripoli. © This table is copyright to Yarn Magazine.

To make a dtr (double-treble) you need a turning chain of

four stitches. Wrap yarn around hook twice. (1) Insert hook
1 into the stitch you’re crocheting into, swirl hook and (2) pull
yarn through stitch (4 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through two loops (3 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through two loops (2 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through remaining two loops.

2
To start a sl st (slip stitch) or
dc (double crochet): (1) insert
the hook into the next stitch, pick To make a ttr (triple-treble, or treble-treble crochet) you
up the yarn with the hook and pull need a turning chain of five stitches. Wrap yarn around hook three
it through the st to the front. To times. (1) Insert your hook into the stitch you’re crocheting into
complete a sl st pull the loop all swirl hook and (2) pull yarn through stitch (5 loops on hook). Swirl
the way through the second loop. hook and pull yarn through two loops (4 loops on hook). Swirl
To complete a dc (2) pick up the hook and pull yarn through two loops (3 loops on hook). Swirl
yarn with the hook again and pull it hook and pull yarn through two loops (2 loops left on hook). Swirl
through the two loops. hook and pull yarn through remaining two loops.
To make a htr
(half-treble
crochet) or a tr
Crochet stitches - We say torch, you say flashlight.
(treble crochet) Australian/UK North American
(1) pick up the yarn chain (ch) chain (ch)
with the hook. (2) double crochet (dc) single crochet (sc)
1 2 Insert the hook into treble crochet (tr) double crochet (dc)
the next st, catch half treble crochet (htr) half double crochet (hdc)
the yarn with the hook and pull it through to the front (3 loops on hook). To complete a htr, catch the yarn
double treble (dtr) treble crochet (tr)
again and pull it through all 3 loops. To complete a tr, catch the yarn again and pull it through the first 2 loops
slip stitch (sl st) slip stitch (ss)
on the hook; pick up the yarn with the hook again and pull it through the rem 2 loops on the hook. In (2) you
can also see the effect of working sl sts across a row to decrease. Here, 4 sts have been decreased. triple treble (ttr) double treble (dtr)
miss skip (sk)

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 53

Y28 stitch guide pg52.indd 53 10/17/2012 8:59:48 AM

 yarn logo listings

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54 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y28 logo listing pg54.indd 54 10/17/2012 10:51:35 AM

 classifieds

CLASSIFIEDS
Books Yarns, Fibres and Supplies Yarns, Fibres and Supplies

Colonial Lake Books A Natural Dyes Workshop HANDSPINNERS AND WEAVERS

Imported Craft Books, Australia-wide mailing with Aukje Boonstra is on 16 & 17 March Guild of SA
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Genuine enquiries only. Ph: 0431 980 970 (02) 6687 4002.

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 28 YARN 55

Y28 class n calend pg55.indd 55 10/17/2012 10:39:26 AM

 Yarn Issue 28 Advertisers Index
Advertiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page Natural Dye Workshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
ACS (Patons) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Needle Nook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Ashford New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IFC Onabee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Batik Oetoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 OpenDrawer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
BB Yarn Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Puchka Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Beautiful Silks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Renaissance Dyeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Bella Textiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Sarah Durrant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Bendigo Woollen Mills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shiloh Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Biggan Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Spacefrog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Bilby Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Stirling Range Fibre Weekend . . . . . . . . . . 55
Bring Knit On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Stitch’n Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Butterfly Knit Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Stranded in Oz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Can Do Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 TAFTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Colonial Lake Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Tailored Strands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Craft Alley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Tasmanian House of Fibre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Ecoyarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Tasmanian Wool Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
www.artwearpublications.com.au Fibres & Threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Tasmanian Woollen Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Fibre Scour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Textiles Anyone? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Fibreworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 The House of Alpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Felt Business For Sale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 The Knitters Studio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Galifrey Alpaca Textiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 The Stash Cupboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Glenora Weaving & Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 The Thread Studio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Grampians Texture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 The Uralla Wool Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Great Canberra Scarf Competition . . . . . 55 Virginia Farm Wool Works . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Handspinners & weavers SA . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Waratah Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Handknitters Guild Inc VIC . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Wirraworra Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Janella Alpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Woolybutt Knitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Kathy’s Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Woolshed @ Manuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Knit Knacs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Yarn about Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Knitting Pretty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Yarn Glorious Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Marlyn Alpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Yarn Over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Moseley Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Yay! For yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

56 YARN Issue No 28 www.artwearpublications.com.au

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