Pagosa Pants: by Kimberly Payne of Straight Stitch Designs
Pagosa Pants: by Kimberly Payne of Straight Stitch Designs
BY KIMBERLY PAYNE
OF STRAIGHT STITCH DESIGNS
The Trusted Sewing Source
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
Fabric Width 44" Wide 54" Wide 60" Wide
2 ⁄8 yards
1
1 ⁄8 yards
5
15⁄8 yards
Sizes 0–12
(200 cm) (150 cm) (150 cm)
27⁄8 yards 2½ yards 21⁄8 yards
Sizes 14–24
(280 cm) (220 cm) (200 cm)
SIZE CHART
Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
IMPERIAL (IN.)
Bust 32 33 34 35 36 37.5 39 40.5 42.5 44.5 46.5 48.5 50.5
Waist 24 25 26 27 28 29.5 31 32.5 36.5 38.5 40.5 42.5 44.5
Hip 34.5 35.5 36.5 37.5 38.5 40 41.5 43 45 47 49 51 53
METRIC (CM.)
Bust 81 84 86 89 91 95 99 103 108 113 119 124.5 129.5
Waist 61.5 64 66.5 69 72 75.5 79.5 83.25 93.5 99 103.5 109 114
Hip 86 90 93 95 98 101 105 109 114 119 125.5 131 136
Note: The waist measurement isn’t included since it is determined based on the wearer’s measurements.
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INSTRUCTIONS 1 2
Use a 5/8" seam allowance unless
otherwise noted.
1. Double-fold the bottom edge of
the pocket ¼" towards the wrong
side; press well. Repeat for the
long vertical edge and the
diagonal edge. (Fig. 1)
2. Topstitch the pocket opening 1/8"
away from the folded edge.
(Fig. 2)
3. Line up the pocket piece with the
notches on the front pants piece.
Baste the pocket to the front pant
along the upper and short vertical
3 4
side. (Fig. 3)
4. Topstitch 1/8" away from the folded
edge of the pocket along the
lower and long vertical edge.
(Fig. 4) Repeat to attach the
second pocket piece.
5. With right sides facing, match the
outside edge of the front and
back pant, and pin in place. Stitch
the two pieces together along the
side seam. Match the inside edge
of the pant legs, and stitch from 5 6
the crotch point down to the
hem. (Fig. 5) Serger- or zigzag-
finish the seams together. Repeat
to sew the second pant leg.
6. Turn one pant leg right side out,
and slip it inside the other pant
leg. Match up the center back
(CB), center front (CF) and crotch
point. Sew the pant legs together
from CF to CB. (Fig. 6) Serger- or
zigzag-finish the seams together.
7. With right sides facing, sew the
front and back waistband together
along both short ends. Fold the 7 8
bottom edge of the waistband ¼"
to the wrong side and press.
(Fig. 7)
8. With right sides facing, slip the
waistband over the top of the
pants. Match the un-pressed
waistband edge with the CB, CF
and side seams. (Fig. 8)
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9. Stitch the waistband in place.
9 10
(Fig. 9)
10. Press the seam allowance and
waistband away from the pants.
Fold the waistband in half towards
the wrong side with the folded
edge, just covering the seamline.
Stitch the bottom of the waistband
in place, leaving a 2" opening for
elastic. Topstitch along the upper
waistband edge. (Fig. 10)
11. Finish one long edge of the belt
loop piece. Fold the piece into
thirds, with the finished edge on
the outside. Topstitch 1/8" from both 11 12
folded edges. Cut five 31/2" lengths
from the belt loop piece. (Fig. 11)
Press both ends of each belt loop
1/2" to the wrong side.
12. Line up the belt loop folded edge
with the waistband upper edge and
with the notch marking on the
outside edge of the loop. Stitch in
place along the topstitching on the
waistband. Secure the other end of
the belt loop to the pants. (Fig. 12)
Repeat with the other front belt 13 14
loop. For the remaining three belt
loops, stitch a belt loop at center
back and two at the back notch
marking on the waistband piece.
13. Measure your natural waist and
subtract 1". Cut elastic to that size
and thread it through the waistband
of the pants, making sure not to
twist. Sew the elastic ends together
securely, and stitch the opening on
the waistband closed. (Fig. 13)
15 16
14. With right sides facing, sew the two
waist ties together along each,
leaving a 2" opening for turning.
Clip corners and turn right sides
out. (Fig. 14)
15. Press the tie well and topstitch 1/8"
from the outer edges, stitching the
opening closed. (Fig. 15)
16. Fold the pant leg towards the
wrong size ¼" and then again by 1".
Press well and topstitch 1/8" from
the upper folded edge. (Fig. 16)
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PAGOSA PANTS
1a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f 1g 1h
Pocket
SIZE CHART - METRIC (CM.)
Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
Bust 81 84 86 89 91 95 99 103 108 113 119 124.5 129.5
Waist 61.5 64 66.5 69 72 75.5 79.5 83.25 93.5 99 103.5 109 114
Hip 86 90 93 95 98 101 105 109 114 119 125.5 131 136
Size Key
0 Grainline
2
1 inch Square
4
4 cm Square
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
2a 2b 2c 2d 2e 2f 2g 2h
Back Leg - Tapered Front Leg - Wide
Cut 2 Mirror Image Cut 2 Mirror Image
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included 5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
24 22 2018 16 1412 10 8 6 4 2 0
Grainline
Grainline
Front Leg - Tapered
Cut 2 Mirror Image
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
3a 3b 3c 3d 3e 3f 3g 3h
Grainline
24 22 2018 16 1412 10 8 6 4 2 0
4a 4b 4c 4d 4e 4f 4g 4h
0–24
Grainline
Cut 1 on the Fold
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
Back Waistband
5a 5b 5c 5d 5e 5f 5g 5h
Center Back
Cut 2 Mirror Image
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
Back Leg - Wide
Fold
Grainline
24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 86 4 2 0
Center Front
Front Waistband
Cut 1 on the Fold
Fold
Grainline
6a 6b 6c 6d 6e 6f 6g 6h
Belt Loops
Grainline
Cut 1
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
Waist Tie
Grainline
Template overview
48 pages:
1a–1h, 2a–2h, 3a–3h, 4a–4h, 5a–5h, 6a–6h
1" Test Square
Print this page first at 100%, then measure the
1" test square before printing the full pattern.
Size Key
0
2
1 inch Square
4
4 cm Square
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
Grainline
1d
1e
1f
1g
1h
2a
Grainline
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
4c
4d
4e
4f
4g
4h
5a
24 22
5b
2 20 18 16 14 12 10 86 4 2 0
Center Front
Front Waistband
Cut 1 on the Fold
Fold
Grainline
Grainline
5f
5g
5h
Fold
6a
6b
Grainline Belt Loops
Cut 1
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
Waist Tie
Grainline
Cut 2 on the Fold
5⁄8" Seam Allowance Included
6c
6d
6e
6f
6g
6h