MOTORCYCLE SMALL ENGINE OVERHAULING
Introduction
Rebuilding a motorcycle engine can be very easy whether you have a single cylinder (2-
stroke) or a multi-cylinder (4-stroke) engine. The same basic rules and procedures apply,
regardless of the type or size.
Engines have to be rebuilt for a variety of reasons. Some are redone to replace worn or
damaged parts, others are part of planned maintenance, and others simply need to be
tuned or upgraded. Carrying out a planned engine rebuild is not beyond the experienced
owner/mechanic with good quality tools, a workshop and a manual.
As with many jobs on a classic motorcycle, preparation is the key to a successful
outcome. This preparation must include having the workshop and motorcycle
thoroughly clean (especially the external engine components).
The sequencing for doing an engine rebuild is very important to the ultimate success of
the project. The following is typical of the order a professional mechanic would perform
the task. It should be noted that removing the engine from the frame as soon as possible
is a typical amateur mistake and must be avoided.
      Prepare the workshop (motorcycle lift, containers for parts, receptacles for all
       associated fluids, etc.)
      Locate the motorcycle on lift allowing for weight shift as the engine is removed
      Drain all associated fluids into appropriate containers
      Disconnect the battery (ground lead first)
      Turn off the fuel supply and remove the fuel tank
      Remove muffler and header pipe/s
      Remove the airbox and carburetors
      Remove drive chain or disconnect the drive shaft as appropriate
      Remove all items necessary to gain access to the engine and auxiliaries
      Wrap the frame rails where the engine is likely to come into contact with it during
       removal
      Remove external cases (clutch cover, alternator cover, etc.). It may be helpful to
       remove the oil filter canister on some engines
      Using special tools as necessary, remove the clutch, crankshaft drive gear,
       alternator, stator, ignition plate, gear change lever, and associated components, as
       appropriate
      Disconnect all oil lines
      Disconnect all electrical connections
      Loosen all engine mounting bolts
Secure the Bike
Some of the component parts fixed to a motorcycle with bolts and nuts require a lot of
torque to loosen or undo them; it is very important, therefore, to secure the bike before
attempting to undo items like this.
If the mechanic is working on a lift the bike’s front wheel must be secured in a wheel
clamp and ratchet clamps should be used to stop the bike moving laterally.
Note: The mechanic must allow for the considerable weight change when the engine is
removed.
Drain Fluids
Using suitable containers, the engine, gearbox and radiator fluids (as applicable) should
be drained. If at all possible, the fluids should be left overnight to drain to ensure as
much as possible has been removed from the engine, etc. (Also, it is good practice to
soak it with WD40, or its equivalent, the header and muffler pipe bolts/nuts overnight
as they are often seized). However, you must observe workshop safety when leaving a
machine to drain in this manner such as no open flame heaters and adequate capacity
in the catch container.
Note: The individual fluids should be kept separate for environmental reasons (dealers
are liable to substantial fines for not correctly handling waste fluids).
Disconnect the Battery
For safety reasons, it is best to disconnect the battery. It is very important to disconnect
the ground lead first when removing or disabling a battery and, conversely, it is equally
important to connect the hot lead first when refitting a battery.
Remove the Fuel Tank
To gain access to many engines it is best to remove the fuel tank. If the bike is likely to
be off the road for some time (a winter rebuild, for example), a fuel stabilizer should be
added to the fuel.
On motorcycles with evaporative control systems, the vent lines should be clearly
labeled. If the mechanic is not sure what every line does he must, as a minimum, mark
each line and its relative location, ‘A’ to ‘A’ for example.
Remove the Muffler and Header Pipe(s)
The hardware (nuts, bolts, clamps, springs, etc.) associated with mufflers and header
pipes should be loosened evenly so as not to put excessive pressure on adjacent parts.
For example, all of the header pipe bolts screwed into the cylinder head should be
backed off slightly rather than anyone bolt removed before moving onto the next.
Remove the Air Box and Carburetors
Before removing carbs, it is good practice to drain the float chambers. Ideally, this will
have been done during the fluid draining process.
If the carbs will not be refitted for some time (again during a winter rebuild, for example),
they should be thoroughly cleaned and WD40 should be sprayed into the float
chambers. They should then be placed inside a sealable plastic bag.
Removing the Final Drive
On chain driven motorcycles, the chain must be removed to allow the engine to be
removed. However, it is sometimes possible (even desirable) to keep the chain assembled
(hard link type) and remove the gearbox output sprocket. Note: It may be necessary to
back off the chain adjustment to give sufficient clearance at the sprocket.
Shaft drive systems differ in their attachment to the gearbox on most motorcycles.
However the typical system for driveshaft removal is to disconnect the rubber gaiter at
the front section to gain access to the shaft, then unbolt, at the universal joint, the
shaft.
Remove Cases
Eliminating the cases at this point will help the mechanic to disassemble the engine
later, as it is much easier to loosen the bolts when the engine is in the frame. On
motorcycles with multiple retaining screws on cases (most Japanese machines), it is
important to loosen the screws a small amount before removal so as not to warp the
cases.
Note: It may be helpful to remove the oil filter canister on some engines at this point.
Remove the Clutch, Alternator and Drive Gear
The clutch plates must be removed first to access the clutch’s retaining nut. However, it
is very important to use a special clutch cage holding tool when backing off the nut. 
Due to the vulnerability of oil lines and their fittings, it is good practice to remove them
(where fitted) before attempting to remove the engine. Note: The lines will often have a
small amount of oil in them.
Disconnect All Electrical Plugs
The vast majority of motorcycle electrical systems have color-coded wires that ensure the
correct wires will be reattached upon assembly. However, if there is any doubt, the
mechanic should label the wires as required. Multi-pin plugs typically have a locating
groove which only allows the plug to be reattached to its appropriate opposite receptacle
(male to female).
Loosen All Engine Mounting Bolts
To remove the engine, it is necessary to loosen then remove the engine mounting bolts
and associated plates. However, the mechanic must exercise caution during this process
as the engine will at some point drop under its own weight.
Before the final bolts are removed, prepare a suitable space on a nearby bench. In
addition, the mechanic should enlist the help of another person at this point for safety
reasons. For most engine removal operations, a mechanic will straddle the bike and lift
the engine to one side first (have the assistant balance the engine at this point) before
coming to the side where the engine will be removed from.
Before continuing any work on the engine, the mechanic should inspect the frame and
engine mounting plates at this point as parts may need to be ordered to complete
the reassembly.
Self-Check:
Direction: Write TRUE if the statement is correct and FALSE if the statement is
incorrect. Write your answer on a separate sheet of paper.
_____________1. Before the final bolts are removed, prepare a suitable space on a nearby
                bench.
_____________2. Rebuilding a motorcycle engine can be very easy whether you have a
                single cylinder (2-stroke) or a multi-cylinder (5-stroke) engine.
_____________3. To remove the engine, it is necessary to loosen then remove the engine
                mounting bolts and associated plates.
_____________4. The vast majority of motorcycle electrical systems have color-coded wires
                that ensure the correct wires will be reattached upon assembly.
_____________5. The clutch plates must be removed first to access the clutch’s retaining
                nut.
_____________6. For safety reasons, it is best to connect the battery. It is very important
                to disconnect the ground lead first when removing or disabling a battery
                and, conversely, it is equally.
_____________7. In removing the muffler or header pipe, the hardware (nuts, bolts,
                clamps, springs, etc.) associated with mufflers and header pipes should
                be loosened evenly so as not to put excessive pressure on adjacent parts.
_____________8. Before removing carbs, it is good practice to drain the float chambers.
                Ideally, this will have been done during the fluid draining process.
_____________9. Eliminating the cases at this point will help the mechanic to disassemble
                the engine later, as it is much easier to loosen the bolts when the engine
                is in the frame.
_____________10. The clutch plates must be removed first to access the clutch’s retaining
                 nut. However, it is very important to use a special clutch cage holding
                 tool when backing off the nut. 
Answer Key:
  1. TRUE
  2. FALSE
  3. TRUE
  4. TRUE
  5. TRUE
  6. FALSE
  7. TRUE
  8. TRUE
  9. TRUE
  10. TRUE