INTERNSHIP REPORT ON WALI APPARELS LTD.

SUBMITTED TO:
Prof. TATLA shareef

SUBMITTED BY :

SHERAZ RAJA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INDEX PAGE

TITLE PAGE ............................................................................................................................................................... 3

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................................................................ 4

DEDICATION...............................................................................................................................................................5

SUMMER INTERNSHIP CERTIFICATE ............................................................................................................... 6

EVALUATION FORM ............................................................................................................................................... 7

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY ......................................................................................................................................... 8

COMPANY PROFILE ................................................................................................................................................ 9

ABOUT COMPANY ................................................................................................................................................. 11

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ................................................................................................................................ 19

1
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ..................................................................................................................... 20

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................................................. 28

FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT .................................................................................................................. 30

FABRIC STORE ....................................................................................................................................................... 31

FABRIC INPECTION .............................................................................................................................................. 34

TRIMS STORE ......................................................................................................................................................... 36

CAD DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................................................................... 38

SPREADING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................................................ 43

SEWING DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................................................................... 49

WASHING DEPARTMENT .................................................................................................................................... 51

FINISHING DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................................................... 52

PACKAGING DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................................................... 53

REFERANCE ............................................................................................................................................................ 57

TITLE PAGE:

• A report is based on Six week internship at Sangar Overseas, Gurgaon,

Haryana.

2
 • Prepared by Prreti Rani, APM, Sem-II, Institute of Apparel Management,
Gurgaon.

• The project will be in under the guidance of Mrs. Neera Chandra, professor
and course coordinator of APM, Institute of Apparel Management.

• Date of submission on 12 Aug 2015.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Through this project report I would like to thanks numerous people whose
consistent support and guidance has been the standing pillar in architecture of this
project. To begin with, my sincere thanks to the management of IAM for giving
this opportunity to experience and learn the processes practiced in Apparel
Industry.
For the completion of this documentI would like to thanksMs.Neera Chandra
(Course Coordinator APM) for being my mentor and my guide throughout the
project. I would like to express my sincere thanks to the Management and staff of
3
SangarOverseas Gurgaon for their outstanding support and cooperation in my
efforts to gain knowledge about the practical aspects of Apparel industries during
the Internship.
I am thankful to Mr.Hari Shankar Rajput (Sr. Production Manager), Mr.Keshav
Kumar, Mr.Kuldeep Singh (Sr. HR Manager) for the guidance and planning out the
schedule for the internship.
I would like to grab this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude to
Ms.PartibhaKathuria(Merchandiser),Ms.Kanika (Merchandiser) for guiding me
through all the processes involved in the processing of the fabric and was patient
enough to answer all my doubts and queries.
I would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping me
throughout the internship. Without their support, it would have been difficult job to
successfully complete the training.

Preeti Rani

DEDICATION

I dedicate my dissertation work to my family and many friends. A special feeling of

gratitude to my loving husband Surender Nain whose words of encouragement and
push for tenacity ring in my ears.
I also dedicate this dissertation to my many friends who have supported me
throughout the process. I will always appreciate all they have done.

I dedicate this work and give special thanks to my wonderful daughter Erica Nain
for being there for me throughout the entire summer internship program. You have
been my best cheerleader.

4
SUMMER INTERNSHIP CERTIFICATE

5
6
EVALUATION FORM

7
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

In the past two decades, the Indian textile industry in terms of home textile,
garments and accessories have a witnessed a complete transformation in terms of
quality, market and product development as well as the expansion, In this scenario
export house plays the major role in the growth and conduct of exports. Looking
from this perspective Sangar Overseas is a very good and important organization in
its work.
Internship at Sangar Overseas has been a great exposure for the practical
application of my learning. I gained knowledge about actual work culture of the
company and how to deal with the people at workplace.
I did my internship in Production, Merchandising and Sampling Department.

OBJECTIVE

Objective of the study is to learn about the functioning of export house and
working of various departments particularly production, merchandising and
sampling, earning knowledge about different departments of the company, their
function and information flow during work.

DATA COLLECTION METHOD

I collectedthis by following method-

• Personal interview from various departments.

• Close observation during work.
• Internal data from various departments.
• And secondary data was collected from the websites of Sangar Overseas.

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 COMPANY PROFILE

COMPANY NAME SANGAR OVERSEAS PVT LTD

ADDRESS SANGAR OVERSEAS
PLOT NO 304, PHASE – 4,UDYOG
VIHAR
GURGAON, HARYANA 122016
TELEPHONE Ph: 0124-4738800 (10 Lines)
fax: 0124-4013018
E-MAIL [email protected]
WEBSITE http://www.sangaroverseas.com

YEAR ESTD. 1984

Market 100% EXPORT

OWNER Mr.RAJEEV SANGAR
DIRECTOR Mr.RAJEEV SANGAR

ANNUAL TURNOVER 40 Crores

TOTAL WORKING FORCE 600

MONTHLY PRODUCTION 150000 pcs

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SANGAR OVERSEAS
MANUFACTURER & EXPORTER OF READYMADE
GARMENTS

10
ABOUT THE COMPANY
With a strong hold on varied market segments across the world SANGAR

11
OVERSEAS are recognized as a reputed garment manufacturing company. Incepted
in the year 1984, they have acquired immense design expertise that helps us in
meeting the diverse requirements of their global clientele.

They are manufacturers, exporters and suppliers of exclusively designed &

fabricated Ladies, Girls & New Born apparel Woven and Knits.

They have state-of-the art facilities comprising in-house computer embroidery

facility, washing facilities and a sophisticated array of machinery.

These facilities assist us in producing a quality assured range of garments for their
valued clients.

Ever since its inception, Sangar Overseas has never looked back. Growing with

Strength as well as value it has achieved the production capacity of 150000 PCS.
Garments per Month.

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•
Product Categories –Ladies-wear (60%) and girls wear – NB, Infant, Toddler,
4-14 (40%).
•
Fabrics – predominantly woven fabrics – solids & printed voiles, cambric,
poplin, yarn dyed (mainly auto-loom & mill-made), complete range of
polyester fabrics, viscose, mill made twill, canvas, denims. They are also
doing woven knit combo wherein top is mainly woven and bottom leggings
in s/l ctnlycra + poly s/j linings for see through dresses & tops in polyester.
•
Factory Capacities – They operate 500 machines, approx. 125,000 – 150,000
pcs per month with in-house computer embroidery with sequin attachment
(60 heads) & complete laundry facilities
(enzyme/bleach/silicon/bio/softener wash, perc (petrol-free) machine for dry
cleaning). They have complete in-house cut to pack facilities, including a highly
capable product development and sampling department.

•
Buyer for Ladies-wear
•
Bon prix – Germany
•
George – UK
•
Cia Hering – Brazil
•
Tema – Turkey
•
Ali & Kris-USA

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• Adrienne Papelle – USA
• Anotah – UAE
• Tape a l Oeil – France
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•
Foschini – South Africa Rene
•
Derhy-France.
•
Buyer for kids-wear –
•
George-UK
•
Morrison’s – UK
•
Baby shop-UAE
•
Bon Prix – Germany
• Disney (for baby Shop and George, since we are a FAMA certified Disney
facility).
• Social Compliance – The factories are Sedex certified, BSCI approved, Disney

& Wal-Mart certified, CT-PAT compliant.

• Design and Product Development – They believe in investing in best talent

available creative talent in the market to get something on the table for our
principals as our own initiative and hence, we have a full-fledged in-house
design, product development and sampling department .they assure you that you
shall get fresh ideas and bodies from us every season.

QUALITY CONTROL

The Factory is equipped with “STATE-OF-THE-ART” Imported Stitching

and washing machines. The internal quality control systems ensure that
Goods of highest quality are shipped to their customers.

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 13

FACTORY LAYOUT
FLOORS DEPARTMENTS

BASEMENT Stitching

a. Fabric Store

GROUND b. Trim Store

c. Cutting Department

d. Human Resource
a.CEO office

1ST b. Showroom

c. Director office

d. Merchandising

e. Stitching

f. Sampling

g. Quality

h. IT & Accounts

2ND Finishing&Packing

3RD Washing
18
19
 Work flow

BUYER

PRODUCT DEVELOPER

MERCHANT

SAMPLING

FABRIC

TESTING

MARKER PLANNING

SPERADING

CUTTING

BUNDLING

RESEARCH& DEVELOPMENT

PRODUCTION

WASHING

FINISHING&PRESSING

PACKING

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 LIST OF MACHINERY

1) BROTHER SINGLE NEEDLE HIGH SPEED LOCKSTITCH MACHINE 400

2) BROTHER DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH SPLIT FEED MACHINE 20

3) BROTHER COMPUTERISED BARTECK MACHINE 04

4) BROTHER BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 04

5) BROTHER COMPUTERISED CROSS-STITCH LOCKSTITCH BUTTONING

MACHINE 04

6) WAIST BAND ATTACHMENT MACHINE 04

7) 5 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE 25

8) EASTMAN CUTTING MACHINE 02

9) BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE WITH

AIR CUSHION TABLE 01

10) AUTOMATIC SNAP FASTNER WITH COMPRESSOR 10

11) FUSING PRESS (HASIMA-CONTINOUS FEED) 02

12) ENZYME WASHERS – NGAI SHING 04

13) RAMSONS – 200 KG CAPACITY WASHER 01

14) HYDRO 03

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22
15) DRYING TUMBLER – NGAI SHING
03

16) HEATED VACUUM TABLES – NGAI SHING 20

17) STEAM PRESSES – NGAI SHING 20

18) THREAD SUCKING MACHINE 02

19) REECE KEY HOLE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 02

02
20) FEED OF THE ARM

12
21) AUTOMATIC STICKERING MACHINE
02
22) CARTON STRAPPING AUTOMATIC MACHINE
02
23) PERC DRY CLEANING MACHINE
02
24) CINTEX & LOCK NEEDLE DETECTOR M/Cs
02
25) SPOTTING STATION MACHINE
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26) COMPUTERIZED EMBROIDERY MACHINE
02

27) THREAD WINDING MACHINE 02

28) LAYER DRILLING MACHINE 02

29) FLAT LOCK MACHINE 04

30) FOUR THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE 02

02
31) FLAT LOCK WITH TRIMMER

02

24
 32) YKK NEWMAX SNAP ATTACHING MACHINE

33)SIRUBA/KANSAI 12 NEEDLE SMOCKING MACHINE

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

in the context of garment export business normally product development is handled

by design department. But where there is no design team, merchants are
responsible for whole production development process. In export houses sampling
department is considered as product development department.

CLASSIFICATION

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INTERNAL DESIGNING EXTERNAL DESIGNING

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 TE
C
H
PA
C
K
OW INSPIRAT
N IONAL
DES
IGN
LIN
E

MECHANDISING DEPARTMENT

Merchandising is a specialized management functions within the fashion industry.

It is the business that moves the world fashion from designers showroom to retail
sales floor and in to the hands of consumers. It is the internal planning that takes
place within a retail organization in order ensures adequate amount of merchandise
are on hand to be sold at prices that the consumers are willing to pay to profitable
operation.

Following are the responsibilities of merchandisers which gives importance to

them

1. Internal& external communication,

2. Sampling,

3. Lab dips,
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4. Accessories& trims,

5. Preparing internal order sheets,

6. Preparing purchase orders,

7. Advising and assisting production,

8. Advising quality department about quality level,

9. Mediating production and quality departments,

10. Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,

11. Helping documentation department,

12. Taking responsibility for inspections andFollowing shipment.

PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
TECH PACK COMES FROM BUYER

INITIAL SAMPLING AND COSTING

GET ORDER FROM THE BUYER

ORDER CONFORMATION

BUDGETING

INTERNAL WITH BUYER

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PURCHASE ORDER

PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Sangar

Overseas Export Pvt.Ltd; it is an evidence as well as support of order confirmed in
the favour of company.

Po include the following information-

1. Delivery date 6. Terms if sale

2. FOB 7. Currency

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 3. Ship cancel date 8. L/C
4. Destination 9. Quantity
5. Ship mode 10. Size break up / colour break up

SANGAR OVERSEAS USE WFX ERP SOFTWARE –

In company employee work on WFX ERP software for making challan, purchase
order, indent etc. it’s very simple and useful software.

Apparel export merchandising may be defined as ‘all the planning &

activities involved right from the buyer communication & order receiving till the
execution or shipment of the order by fulfilling the following factors (Six Rights):

Right Merchandise: Retailers must fill their shelves with the merchandise that
customer wants.

Right Place: The location of the merchandise is of prime importance since it

decides the accessibility. Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on
hand when it is most needed.

Right Time: Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on hand when it
is most needed.

Right Quantity: A profitable balance between volume of sales and amount of

inventory is the desired goal.

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Right Price: Merchandiser must arrive at a price that is high enough to give the
store profit and yet low enough to meet the competition and customers
expectations.

Right Promotion: Right balance between the investment and the appeal created
for the customers.

The successful execution of any garment export order depends on the work
performance of a merchandiser. Merchandiser is the person who plans and
coordinates all the activities right from the order procuring and till the shipment
order. A merchandiser should have the comprehensive knowledge of his work
procedures and responsibilities so that he could perform his job efficiently and
effectively. In the apparel export industry, a merchandiser has to perform the
following functions;

Communication: It is one of the foremost functions of merchandiser because the

merchandiser has to communicate with different levels of people in his day to day
activities.

Planning & Programming: A merchandiser has to check the order requirement,

planning for the given order, programming for various activities, proper allocation
of work to the assistants.

Follow ups: It includes sending of samples at various stages of order, buyer and
buyer house for sample and other approvals.

Decision making: A merchandiser has to make several decisions during the order
processing like giving approvals like fabrics, color, design, accessories, and

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packing, selection of suppliers and vendors, selection of buyers, sometimes time
extensions for order shipment.

Sourcing & Purchasing: A merchandiser may have to do sourcing and purchasing

for raw materials and accessories, suppliers and vendors, new designs, new buyers.

Controlling: This is the crucial activities for any merchandiser. A merchandiser

has to make sure that all the activities are carried out as per the planning and even
if there is any deviation, he/she should make the alternatives measures.

Coordination: Merchandiser has to coordinate in such way to reduce the

uncertainties and difficulties and if there is a problem arises, the merchandiser has
to support and lend helping hand in order to complete the task successfully in the
given period. Both the controlling and coordinating activities complement each
other and a merchandiser has to adopt the both accordingly,

Negotiation: It is the activity of convincing, compromising and cooperation which

would benefit the both parties involved in the negotiation.

Costing: It is the process of estimating the expenditure of a given product and the
subsequent price. It is another crucial function because mostly order conformation
depends on the price offered to the buyers. The merchandiser should know the
current prices and rates of various products and processes to do the accurate
costing.

Meeting: There are two types of meeting a merchandiser has to be involved. First
type, a merchandiser has to conduct the meeting with the concern department in

31
charges to discuss about the proceedings and the status of the running order. In
second type, a merchandiser has to attend the meeting with the superiors or buyers
or business people in giving reporting or participation or discussion.

Forecasting: Forecasting is the activity of predicting the future happenings or

problems. A merchandiser has to predict the future uncertainties in the current
order or industry so that alternative actions or corrective measures can be taken in
advance this also includes giving suggestion or ideas about new technologies or
new products or latest industry trends.

QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

Sangar Overseas processes export orders in factories. While raw materials are
converted into garments, there are possibilities to make errors, like making
defective garment components and defective garment. Making defective garment is
a cost to the company. So to make sure garments are made as per customer
requirement and whatever raw materials are sourced must meet the factory
standards, factory establish Quality Control Department.

Function of the quality control department can vary widely. But most common
function of quality control depart are as follows

Quality Inspection of Internal Processes and Outsourced work

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Inspection of raw material: Checking of raw materials to ensure there is no
defective or abnormal goods.

Testing of of raw material: Quality control department does not conduct testing
of raw materials but they send sample to testing lab for testing physical and
chemical test. Once factory receive test report, quality control team get assurance
whether raw material to accept or not.

Inspection of Sample: Visual inspection and measurement checking is done prior

to sending sample to respective buyers.

Cutting room inspection: Quality department is also inspects work done by

cutting room. Like, layering of fabrics on cutting table, cut layer inspection, cut
component inspection, Bundle inspection etc.

Preparatory work inspection: In high fashion garment, lot preparatory work are
outsourced like, printing, machine embroidery, bead work, special decoration on
garments etc. Before feeding this outsourced goods, quality department checks and
approve for further process (sewing process).

Sewing process: In sewing there are multiple checking process is practiced by

exporters, like, Inline inspection, end of line inspection, stitching quality audit etc.

33
Finishing Process: Finally quality personnel checks finished and packed goods
and do auditing prior to handover shipment to external inspector.

Quality System Development

To make quality product throughout the garment manufacturing process, factories

need to develop quality system. Quality Control Department is responsible for
setting quality system for the factory.

Quality Awareness development

They are also responsible to bring quality awareness among the workers and all
employees.

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of

production. It is also called mock up of a product and is made to check the design
effectiveness and fit of the garment. Sampling is a set of the procedure follow to
produce various sample style. It contains activities like making of the pattern for
proto type according to measurement of the sample with the help of machinery and
getting buyers approvals for sample produce.

In an export house, the sampling department play vital role in the up- lifting of a
unit. This department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and

34
production dept. sampling is done to see how the product will look when produce
in bulk and to check discrepancies in the pattern are.

STEP OF SAMPLING

PROTO TYPE SAMPLE MADE

FIT SAMPLE MADE

PP SAMPLE MADE

TOP SAMPLE

SIZE SET MADE

SHIPPMENT SAMPLE MADE

35
FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

SOURCING DEALS with getting information about material form different

sources then selecting the best material which suits over budget and buyer’s
specification.

Fabric sourcing means souring the right kind of fabric which fulfils the
specification. Fabric sourcing department is quite important as more than 90%of
garment is fabric and approximately 70% cost of garment is due to the fabric cost.

Selecting the right quality of the fabric as per the buyer’s specification otherwise it
may lead to cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The
fabric sourcing department gets the fabric sample from the vendor. These samples
are tested before sending to buyer for approval. After the buyer approves the
sample, the fabric is order for bulk production.

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TYPE OF FABRIC

Predominantly woven fabrics – solids & printed voiles, cambric, poplin, yarn dyed
(mainly auto-loom & mill-made), complete range of polyester fabrics, viscose, mill
made twill, canvas, denims.

We are also doing woven knit combo wherein top is mainly woven and bottom
leggings in s/l ctnlycra + poly s/j linings for see through dresses & tops in
polyester.

Step followed for fabric purchasing:

1. Market trends enquiry

2. Vendor – folders in- house swatches
3. Display to buyer
4. After approval from the buyer swatch is send for the sampling ( 5- 10 meter
of fabric)

FABRIC STORE

Fabric storehouse actual are where the fabric for production is receive or
dispatched for processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also
responsible for the inspection of good receives by it.

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PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE

FABRIC DESPATCH FROM MILL

FABRIC RECIVING

GRIEGEFABRIC SOLID /YARN DYED

/PRINTED

SEND IT FOR PROCESSING

BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER DYING OR PRINTING

100% CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)

38
 METER CHECKING BY SECURITY GUARD

LOT MAKING AND SEND IT TO MERCHANDISING

QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS

KEPT IN STORE

STORAGE

Rack system of storage is followed i.e. packages are stored in two areas:

1. Check fabric
2. Unchecked fabric
They are further segregated on the basic of style no. and lot wise. The fabric rolls
are put in rack manual way. Such systematic maintenance of the store makes it
easy to make the fabric whenever needed in future.

ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE:

The merchant receives the purchase order from the buyer. On the basis of this
purchase order, the fabric source prepares a requisition for fabric as per the
demand of the buyer and raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. The best deal
and the vendor are finalized and the order is placed. The factory may send the yarn
from the store to the fabricator for fabric production, buy greige for dyeing or
directly order processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics development
receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor send it from of lot within the

39
specified the time period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About
5% extra goods are supplied by the vendor.

The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold etc.
each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, color,
GSM, and weight. The goods are weighted and other detailed are reconfirmed
before they store.

FABRIC INSPECTION

The fabric being the main contribution to development of our final product i.e. the
garment, it is very important to control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and
various present in it. Identification of these objectionable variations and faults right
at the initial stage to reduce the production time. So once the fabric is in- house it
is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley assembly to inspection.

4 POINT SYSTEM:

4 Point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel industry for fabric
quality inspection.

1. Fabric inspection method or preparation.

2. Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.
3. Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric
roll.

4. A Check sheet or format for recording data.

40
 5. Knowledge of different types of defects (how a defect looks and its
appearance).

Criteria for giving penalty points

The penalty evaluation points have been given for different length of fabric defect
and dimension of holes.

SIZE OF DEFECT PENALTY

POINTS

Length of defects in fabric (either length or width)

Defects up to 3 inches 1

Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches 2

Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches 3

Defects > 9 inches 4

Holes and openings(largest dimension)

1 inch or less 2

Over 1 inch 4

FORMULA TO CALCULATED TOTAL POINT PER YARD

In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq.yds.

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Points/100sq.yds – Total points in roll *3937

Fabric length in MTR * fabric width in inch

Example: A fabric roll 120 yards long and 46 inch wide contains following
defects.

4 defects up to 3 inch length 4x1 4 points

3 defects from 3 to 6 inch length 3X2 6 points

2 defects from 6 to 9 inch length 2X3 6 points

1 defect over 9 inch length 1X4 4 points

1 hole over 1 inch 1X4 4 points

Total defect points 24 Points

Therefore, = 24*3937/109.72*46

Points/ 100 sq. Yards = 18.72 points

120 yards in MTR – 120*.9144 = 109.72 MTR

TRIMS STORE

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Trims store as the name suggests is a department, which acts as a storehouse for
accessories. It is the place where all the accessories required in an export house,
are stored. Right from sewing thread, needles to packaging material mike poly
bags and taps etc. all are stored in the accessories store.

The merchandiser as per buyer specifications order the purchase dept. to buy the
accessories that are used in a particular style of that buyer. Merchandiser prepares
a swatch card containing all the accessories and their quantity in a cycle. These
accessories used in the swatch card are as per the quality and color mentioned and
approve by the buyer. The purchase dept. with help of swatch card prepared by the
merchandiser purchase the required quantity of accessories. The accessories are
purchased 10 – 15% extra then the required, as the wastage in case of accessories
is more. The receiving dept. then receives these accessories from the vendor and
then checking and testing of these accessories are done. They are checked quality
and color. The accessories like buttons are tested with help of button snap tester.
After all accessories are checked and tested as per the buyer’s specification then an
accessories approval card is prepared.

After the accessories are received they are stored in the accessory store. The
accessories are stored in different racks. The accessories of a single buyer are
stored in one rack but the different accessories are stored separately from each
other in the same rack. The accessories store also houses the stationary required in
export house.

43
Now, whenever the production starts the accessories required in production are
issued to the production dept. through an internal channel. A stock register is used
for maintaining records. Thus an accessory store function as a store house for
accessories where all accessories are assembled and kept and also issued to
sampling and production dept. for the garment manufacture.

CAD DEPARTMENT

Computer Aided Design (CAD) becomes an essential tool for pattern making and
related jobs in garment industry. In apparel industry CAD Software is used for
pattern making, Grading of pattern, marker making and digitizing manual patterns.

CAD system involves any type of design activities which use of to develop
analyses or modify any engineering or garment design.

TUKA CAD Software which is used for computer aided designing in SANGAR
OVERSEAS.

TUKAcad is an innovative apparel pattern making software that is perfect for

manufacturers and designers of any size. Operating under Microsoft Windows,
TUKAcad allows the user to accurately builds patterns, grade rules and markers for
single styles or entire lines. It is the advanced pattern making, grading and marker
making system that will streamline your production process and reduce operating
expenses.

Fabric Matching

Engineer pattern pieces according to fabric prints, stripes, or plaids. Fabric print
can be transferred to Marker Making for perfect matching. TUKAcad even
accomodates the flaws in warp control.

44
GR ADI NG

Build block libraries with "master grading." Changes made to base pattern are
automatically reflected in entire size range eliminating need to recalculate grade
rules. Easily insert size in between current sizes and the system will automatically
divide the grading in half.

EXPORTING FILE FORMA TS

45
Within TUKAcad, users have the ability to export to multiple file formats.
TUKAcad files can be exported to DXF, AAMA, or ASTM.

MARKER MAKING

A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for size of specific

style that are to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making is a process of developing a diagram which is superimposed on the

top of a ground of superimposed piles as a guide for cutting these plies.

It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style fabric
and distribution sizes.

46
Cut order planning determines:

• How many markers are needed?

• How many of each size should be in each marker and the number of plies
that will be cut from each marker?

WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT

 PATTERN ENGINEERING
An examination of the seam location to ensure the possible placement of
pattern in marker

 HEM ALTERATION ALLOWANCES

Means dividing a large panel awkwardly shaped pattern into two pieces to
better accommodation in the marker.

 THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTH

The best width depends among other factor on the cost of various fabric
width/ square meter, the typical number of size in a marker, the potential
pattern engineering changes at various width and the marker efficiency
achieve.
47
WORK FLOW OF SPREADING AND CUTTING

SPREADING

LAYERING

CUTTIN G MANUAL/
AUTOMATIC

TICKETING

FUSING

CHECKING

BUNDLING

TRANSFER TO PRODUCTION

48
SPREADING DEPARTMENT

Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of

specified length. After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department for
further processing. Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and
marker issued by CAD dept.

PROCESS FLOW OF SPRADING

FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE

PERFORATRED PAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE

VACCUME IS TURN ON IN THE SPERADING TABLE

AUTOMATIC / MANUAL SPREADING IS DONE

PROPER TENTION IS MAINTAINED WHILE

WHEN FINISHED, VACCUME IS TUREND OFF

MARKER IS SPREAD OVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE

AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM

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CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting means to separate out different garment process from the lay of fabric with
the help of cutting template and devices. It is done to get required shape in
different no. or as a whole to make a complete product. The first stage in the
manufacture if garment is the cutting of material into the necessary pattern shapes.
These patterns are joined to form a garment when large amount of garment style
has to be cut, a lay is created, which consist of many piles of fabric spread one
above the other. Now all the pattern pieces for all sizes are from this lay. The main
objective of the cutting dept. is the cutting of garment parts accurately and
economically and in sufficient value to keep the sewing room supplied with work.

Objective:

• To maintain the quality of the cut components.

• To cut the raw material in required shape and quality.
• Availability of cut components on time.

BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the
production manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager
to cut a given amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in from of a package
file that carries the following details:

1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and

other trims averages.
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 2. Measurement sheet
3. Design worksheet of the garment
4. Purchase order
5. Fabric requisition sheet
6. CAD mini marker
7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colours in which the
patterns are to be cut.

CUTTING AVERAGE

The cutting department duties are not limited to mare cutting of the fabric. It is
responsible for keeping control over the total consumption of fabric per garment
piece cut this consumption is more specifically defined in terms of cutting average.
During marker planning, the CAD rule sends theoretical consumption of fabric as
per its marker, which is calculated as following:

Cutting average = Area of one piece in the marker (cm square)* GSM of the
fabric

10,000

Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material that is fabric for each
garment. Hence it is very important that it is maintained airing the bulk cutting

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also. The cutting manager finds out his actual cutting averages before the bulk
cutting and tries to keep it close as possible to average predicted by the CAD.

CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENT

1. Layering and spreading 2.

Cutting

3. Bundling and ticketing

4. Fusing area
5. QA department

TICKETING

Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut
components are group together as per their sizes and taken to the checking table.
Here the cut components are inspected for any error. It is very important to take
care that pieces cut from two different bolts of fabric are not mixed up. This is
because within lot there bolt to bolt variation in colour shade.

FUSING

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are
separated from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to

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size of the component to be fused. The component along with the cut fusing
material are kept between to paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing
machine by means of temperature and pressure fusing takes place at particular
speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on conveyors
and the pieces are removed and re-bundled.

Parameters affecting the fusing process:

• Pressure – Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that even

contact between the interlining and cloth takes place and uniform heat is
supplied to the adhesive. Pressure should be adequate for the correct
penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric.

• Temperature – Itis another important parameter. It depends upon the type

of resin used in fusing process. It should be high enough to change the dry
thermoplastic resin into a molten state so that it can flow properly between
the fabrics. If temperature is low it gives proper low of resin and if is high it
gives to much flow of resin and the resin will come out.

• Time – Time should also be adequate along with temperature and pressure.
It should be long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among the
fibres of fabric can takes place.

CHECKING

The ticked panels are now sending to the checking are for inspection of every
individual pieces for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong
grain line, in appropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects likes holes,
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cut , shade, variation etc. That are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are
removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the
total quantity cut, checked and approvals. The rejected pieces are sent back and
equal no of trash panel are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the
same no. as the rejected once. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration
sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or
washing.

BUNDLING

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled
using tie. The size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the production
plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of same style and same size only. These
pieces are stored in racks made beneath the cutting table. The cutting department
issues the amount required by the production dept. as and when ask for. The cut
component may be issued in instalment or all at once as the needs of the
production dept. against the job order.

SEWING DEPARTMENT

The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at
the profit level.

Production is an act of producing i.e. quantity obtained by multiplying two

quantities to gather by making use available resources.

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To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input resources or material &
output good and service is known as productivity are reciprocally related to each
other. Therefore an increase in production leads to fall in the cost per unit & rise in
profit.

The production department is spread in two floors, ground floor and first floor is
for jacket, blazer and basic garment. Both floors have common cutting dept. so all
the sizes of bundles are received from there only.

Production floor follows assembly line system. Following are steps to start a
production line.

• To study the production file.

• To study operation bulletin and set line accordingly.
• Manpower – operators, checkers, quality controller and helper.

• Load and feeding line.

• To arrange buffer or work – in – progress.
• Manufacturing.

• To make daily production and to achieve target accordingly.

• To understand bottlenecks stage of production.

Working steps of production department:

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 • Shrinkage production pattern is issued to production floor from CAD dept.
• Ready pattern are made as per the requirement of production room.
• Cutting received from cutting dept.
• Cross checking of cut panels with patterns.
• Bundling of cut panels is done.
• Operation wise feeding of cut angels into the line.
• Inline checkpoint
• Output of line
• Final checkpoints.
• Auditing of checked pieces.

Some important production points:

• Ratio between worker and machinery

• Bottleneck area to be considered
• In most of machine, guide is there
• They are using cartons to moving bundles
• They generate report for broken needle
• Complete assembly is divided in 6 parts, in end of every part there was a
record sheet, which show early target input, actual input, target output and
actual output, according to this can find out bottleneck area.

PRODUCTION CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN ONE WAY

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 1. ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM:
In this production system a garment is being by no. of workers, therefore
one part is stitched by one worker and then passed on to other, due to which
line gets setup. In the end assembly of the parts is done, in modern industries
conveyor belts are used as a medium of transportation of garment part from
one worker to another. This system is very commonly used in industry as it
reduces the manufacturing cost increase the production.

WASHING DEPARTMENT

Garments pass through various handling processes, which may render them dirty
and stain, thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal. To restore this aesthetic value,
they are subjected to cleansing process like washing and dry cleaning. Garments
are sent for washing by the production department as per the buyer’s requirement.
Normally the fabrics are not asked to go for wash by the buyer. Whether the fabric
department may internally sent it a number of other reasons.

1. To control uneven shrinkage

2. To remove bowing
3. To lighten colour shade
4. To improve hand
5. To even out colour shade variations
6. To remove printing smell

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 7. To execute a dyeing program

WASHING FACILITIES:

ENZYME,

STONE WASHING,

OVERDYEING ETC…

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

After assembly, the garments now come for finishing – a key stage of garment
manufacturing process. Finishing is done to prepare the final garment according
to the quality standards of the buyer before packing it for shipment.

PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING

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 GARMENT COMES FROM PRODUCTION

WASHING

THREAD CUTTING

INTIAL CHECKING AND SPOTTING

ALTERATION

REIRONING

FINAL CHECKING

PRESENTATION/FINAL IRONING

MEASUREMENT

SENT FOR PACKING

BASIC WORK FLOW

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• WASHING, PERC – according to the buyer’s demand or as per the buyer
specifies recipes and the method to be employed. The pieces are count and
sent with the asg or PERC program.

• Thread trimming – pieces received from the washing department or from

the assembly line now come for thread trimming where trails of thread are
cut off from the seams, buttons etc. manually with the help of trimming
scissor.

• Spotting – during the assembly, the garment may acquire stain and other
objectionable marks which must be removed. This is done either in washing
department or they are locally ‘sported off’. Objectionable stains like that of
chalk are spotted by means of spotting guns containing mild solvent. Harder
and stubborn stain(like that of tobacco, rust, dye, kerosene etc) are sent to
the spotting room where they are cleansed under the spotting machine in a
protective environment. If the spots still don’t go then they are sent for perc
or dry cleaning.

• General checking – now the garment comes for general checking relating to
overall stitching. Here, first the general visual appearance is studied which
includes shape of the garments; balancing of the parts; color variations etc.
then any seaming defects are recognized for example unmade seams, missed
stitches etc. as per requirement the checked pieces are send for mending to
assemble line. The production manager gives a top sample to checkers as a
visual aid.

• Final thread cutting – minute thread like those of labels, bar tack etc. are
trimmed off to give the neat look. Thread loosely sticking to the garments is
also shed off, both in and out by jerking the garment before it goes for
pressing.

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 • Pressing – pressing in general is shaping the assemble material with
pressure, with/ without heat and moisture, for further processing. In case of
knits, this is important but not as significant as in the case of woven because
of their property of excellent recovery and fit.
Measurement and final checking – this is the final and most stringent done for
garment measurement, appearance, labels, trim etc to study the final look and
shape the final look and shape of the product produced. Measurements are done
according to the specification sheets and recording are made for any variations in
the measurement chart. This gives an overall idea about the quality of the garment
being produced.

PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

Packing is the LAST STAGE WHERE THE FINISHED GARMENT ARE

PRIMED, Organized, geared up for the shipment to the buyer, the entire process
from the way a garment will be folded to the final labeling of the cartons is
dictated by buyer’s specifications. These instructions are standardized for a
particular type of garment and sent to the merchandiser in from of a packing
manual. The merchandiser forwards it to the packing in charge along with a top of
production sample i.e. packed with dimension approved by the buyer. This is kept
as a visual reference for the packers.

PROCESS FLOW OF PACKING

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GARMENT COMES FROM INSPECTION

IT IS THEN FOLDED

1 OR 2 ARE PACKED TOGETHER

ALL PIECES PUT IN TO CARTONS

DETAILS ARE PASTRD ON CARTONS

CARTON IS SEALED

LODED INTO TRUCKS

SENT FOR SHIPMENT

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REFERANCE

• http://www.sangaroverseas.com/
• http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/
• http://www.fibre2fashion.com/
• http://garmentsproduction.blogspot.in/
• textilelearner.blogspot.com
• google.com

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