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were involved in laying the sumptuous nawabi
dastarkwan. Countless variety of meat, stew and
curries were prepared to the taste of nawabs,
begums and nobles.
Cuisines of Awadh were influenced by Mughal
cooking techniques and were enriched by those of
Persia, Kashmir, Hyderabad and Punjab. Bawarchis
of Awadh evolved dum style of cooking, the art of
cooking over low fire. This mode of cooking later
became synonymous with the region.
The spread consisted of elaborate dishes like
kababs, korma, kofta, queema, biryani, kulchas,
rumali roti and wargi parathas. The main
ingredients ghee and best of the spices were used
lavishly. The mere sight of fried parathas and
tantalizing smoke kababs was enough to arouse
craving for the royal flavours. The bread, generally
made without use of yeast, had many varieties. Some
were grilled or directly baked over fire while others
were fried.
Birya is a Persian term, which means fried or
roasted. From birya came biryani that is prepared
with fried or roasted rice. Biryanis said to have
threehundred and sixty-five variants, one for each
day of the year. In Persian dum stands for breath
and pukht stands for cooking. In Awadh dum-pukht-
biryani is prepared in a copper or earthen heavy
bottomed vessel covered with a lid. After laying the
ingredients into the pot, the lid is tightly sealed
using dough. The biryani is thus steam cooked
slowly under low heat. Aroma of biryani prepared
with aromatic herbs with fragrance of cardamom,
cinamon and highest quality saffron from Kashmir
valley is mouth watering. Teheri the trademark
vegetarian version of Awadhi biryani is a common
household dish today whereas zarda is aromatic
sweetened rice. During the famine days when
Imambara was ordered to be constructed to provideemployment to a large number of people, they all
were fed with biryani and tehri from charity kitchen
to circumvent tedious task of preparing rotis.
There were two types of menus the khas and the
aam. The former was served to nawabs and all those
who shared dastarkhwan with them and the latter
was meant for the lesser beings attached with the
establishment. The mode of sitting was cross-legged
on the carpet. The dinning cloth (dastarkhwan)
was spread over the carpet where meal was laid
and served. Variety of crockery that was arranged
consisted of bowls, dishes and plates. These were
made of gold, silver, crystal and porcelain of high
quality known by names tibbi, faghfuri, skatatai,
Khitmo and ghori. Ghori was special as it cracked
the moment it encountered poison. It was rare,
very expensive and brought from Persia and Arabia.
Before commencing hands and mouth were washed
using apparatuses aftaba and chilamchi.
The first morsel was placed in mouth with
utterance of the word bismillah. Right hand was
used in eating, while attendants waved fans made
of feather gently. Eating concluded with the word
shukrana. For washing the hands besan (powdered
gram) was presented. It served the purpose of soap.
Meal was followed by chewing paan (betel leaf) and
smoking the hookah (hubble bubble).
To ensure supply of clean potable water there was
a special department — Abdarkhana. The supervisor
of abdarkhana was daroga-e-abdarkhana and the
one who served water was abdar. Expertise of
manufacturing ice and cooling water existed in
Abdarkhana even in those days.
The nawabs have gone but the cooking traditions
of those times still continue in Awadh region —
renowned Tunde ke Kabab of Lucknow today are
over a century old. The famous outlet is so namedon its one armed chef who lost his arm following
a fall from rooftop while flying kite. The recipe of
Tunde ke Kabab is a guarded secret of the family.
Another famous brand Kakori Kabab finds its origin
in Kakori, a place less than hundred kilometers from
Lucknow. In Kakori Kababs meat of tendons of the
leg of goat is used. Nawab Wajid Ali Shah who lost
his teeth in early age found it difficult to chew. To
serve him his cooks came out with a special variety
of soft kabab, which melted as soon as it was put in
mouth. This kabab got the name galauti kabab, the
one that melts away. Other famous variety of kababs
of Awadh are Shami Kabab, Pasanda Kabab and
range of vegetarian Kababs — Dalcha Kabab, Kathal
ke Kabab, Arbi ke Aabab and Rajma Galauti Kabab.
Kofta another dish, invented in Constantinople
(present day Istanbul), came to India with travelers
and invaders from Turky through Iran and
Afghanistan. Tt was adopted and was transformed
into a total Indian dish. There are two special
varieties of kofta one Nargisi Kofta and another
Chui Mui Kofta. Nargisi named after Daffodil flower
is yellow inside and Chui Mud is fragile and shy akin
to Mimosapudica, touch me not creeper.
Kheer, firni, sher brunj and range of halwas
have become perennial desserts since their origin
from nawabi kitchen. Multiple varieties of pickles,
chutnees and murabbas are still the part of the menu
to make the food tastier.
With such extensive varieties coming out of expert
hands, cuisines of Awadh had an alluring invitation
for one and all. Everyone from far and wide had
curiosity to peep into the royal kitchens of Awadh.
Awadh virtually became a _gastronomical
pilgrimage of that time.