EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

croatia
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CROATIA
 PRODUCED BY Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy
PROJECT EDITOR Donatella Ceriani
ART EDITOR Oriana Bianchetti
EDITORS Sara Cattel, Emanuela Damiani, Alessandra Lombardi
Giovanna Morselli, Federica Romagnoli
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Leandro Zoppé, Gian Enrico Venturini
PHOTOGRAPHER Lucio Rossi
CARTOGRAPHERS Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara
LS International Cartography snc, Milano
ILLUSTRATORS Modi Artistici
ENGLISH TRANSLATION Susan Andrews
Dorling Kindersley Limited
EDITORS Hugh Thompson, Fiona Wild
CONSULTANT Jane Foster
SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Jason Little A lovely bay on the island of Mljet
PRODUCTION Melanie Dowland
Reproduced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan
and in Singapore by Colourscan
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd
CONTENTS
First American Edition 2003
11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 HOW TO USE
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, THIS GUIDE 6
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011
INTRODUCING
Copyright © 2003, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT
CROATIA
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN
OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR
BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
DISCOVERING
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT CROATIA 10
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
PUTTING CROATIA
ISSN 1542-1554 ON THE MAP 12
ISBN 978-0-7566-7021-4
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN A PORTRAIT
USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL.
OF CROATIA 14
Front cover main image: View of the coast and harbour
from Trsteno, Dalmatia
CROATIA THROUGH
THE YEAR 24

THE HISTORY
OF CROATIA 28

The information in this DK Eyewitness

Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as
possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites,
and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a
suitable source of travel information. We value the views and
suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK
Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London
Woodcutters by Mijo Kovačić, Croa-
WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected].
tian National Museum of Naive Art
The splendid golden beach of Bol, on the island of Brač
 TRAVELLERS’ SURVIVAL GUIDE
NEEDS
PRACTICAL
WHERE TO STAY INFORMATION
218 264

WHERE TO EAT TRAVEL INFORMATION

234 274

GENERAL INDEX 282

PHRASE BOOK 295

Buzara, a typical Dalmatian dish,

shellfish in tomato sauce
CROATIA AREA
BY AREA
SHOPPING
CROATIA AT A GLANCE IN CROATIA
46 250

ISTRIA AND THE ENTERTAINMENT IN

KVARNER AREA CROATIA 254
48
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
DALMATIA 88 258 The bustling harbour of Makarska

ZAGREB 148

CENTRAL
CROATIA 166

SLAVONIA
AND BARANJA 180

THE NORTHERN
COUNTIES
198

The church of
The Roman amphitheatre in Pula St Donat in Zadar
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T he detailed information and tips
given in this guide will help you
to get the most out of your visit
to Croatia. Introducing Croatia maps
the country and sets it in its historical
place names may refer to the same
town. Where both names are officially
recognized, the Croatian name is given
first, then the Italian in brackets.
Restaurant and hotel recommendations
and cultural context. The six sections, can be found in the section Travellers’
one dedicated to Zagreb, describe the Needs, together with information about
main sights using maps, photographs shopping and entertainment.The
and illustrations. In Istria, Kvarner and Survival Guide has tips on everything
part of Dalmatia, two languages are from transport to making a phone call,
spoken (Croatian and Italian) and two as well as other practical matters.
CROATIA     
 

 

Each area can be easily
AREA BY AREA     
identified by its colour-
Croatia has been divided



















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coded thumb tab.
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Ethnographic Museum, Županja The mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok

the most important sights.

 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7

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INTRODUCING
CROATIA

DISCOVERING CROATIA 1011

PUTTING CROATIA ON THE MAP 1213
A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA 1423
CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR 2427
THE HISTORY OF CROATIA 2843
10 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

DISCOVERING CROATIA
W ith over 4,800 km (3,000
miles) of Mediterranean
coastline and 1,185
islands, Croatia is one of
Europe’s leading holiday
But there is more to Croatia than
just the coast. Inland lie the
cultural hot spots of Zagreb
and Varaždin, as well as a
varied countryside dotted
playgrounds. Close to the with castles, spa-towns and
beaches there are picturesque nature parks. These pages
ancient ports and excellent Mosaic of Christ pinpoint Croatia’s main
restaurants with sea views. from Poreč attractions and highlights.

ISTRIA AND THE

KVARNER AREA

• Beautiful old port towns

• Imperial Opatija
• Plitvice Lakes National Park
• The Island of Rab

Istrian port towns are notable

for their stout walls, church
towers, and medieval houses
tumbling down steep, cobbled
alleys to picturesque harbours.
Prettiest is Rovinj (see p56),
but Poreč (see pp53–5) with
its 6th-century Basilica of Holidaymakers on the white sand beach at Makarska, Dalmatia
Euphrasius and Pula (see
pp60–3) with its 1st-century with the more Italianate expensive region of Croatia,
Roman Amphitheatre have Istria. Arguably the greatest Dalmatia offers one of its
the star attractions. The best natural wonder in Croatia is finest treats – dining al fresco
way to enjoy Opatija (see p67) the Plitvice Lakes National on a terrace looking over the
is by checking into one of the Park (see pp86–7). A whole sea. Swimming in the cool,
grand 19th-century seafront day of lakes, cliffs, forests clean water is also a delight,
promenade hotels – originally and falls will leave you both and you soon learn the art of
built as holiday villas for the awe-struck and coolly finding a flat, warm rock to lie
Austrian imperial elite; the refreshed. Serious bathers on and how to cross a stretch
crystal chandeliers, grand should seek out the secluded, of sharp pebbles. The walk
halls of stuccoed columns, sandy beach of Lopar on the round the walls at Dubrovnik
elegant parks and formal island of Rab (see pp82–3), (see pp140–7) above the
gardens, contrast sharply one of the most exquisite mosaic of orange-tiled roofs
islands in Kvarner Bay. is amazing, as is Diocletian’s
Palace in Split (see pp118–
123), a repository brimful of
DALMATIA Roman, Renaissance and
Baroque architecture. Quaint
• Carefree island hopping Trogir, (see pp112–5) an
• Great seafood restaurants historic town on an island,
• Beaches aplenty also cannot fail to charm.
• Coastal capitals of antiquity

Frequent ferry services make ZAGREB

Dalmatia’s archipelago of
islands easily accessible to • Sophisticated nightlife
visitors: see lavender-scented • Enchanting Upper Town
Hvar (see pp126–7); medieval • Cathedrals and churches
Korčula (see pp132–5) prettily • Galleries and museums
fortified by the Venetians;
and unspoilt, pine-covered Having emerged from the
Mljet (see pp136–7), with its historical shadow of Belgrade,
The picturesque old Roman port of quiet coves and picturesque Croatia’s capital city, Zagreb
Rovinj, Istria lakeside monastery. The most now resounds again with all

Noon at Koločep 1931 by Jerolim Miše

 D I S C O V E R I N G C R O A T I A 11

its old self-confidence. At

night the city comes out to
play in Croatia’s classiest
choice of bars, clubs, casi-
nos, restaurants, theatres and
concert venues. The Upper
Town (see pp151–7), with its
cosy medieval alleyways,
churches, funicular railway
and fine views, is clearly the
loveliest part of Zagreb. At the
city’s heart stands the Cathe-
dral of the Assumption of
the Blessed Virgin Mary (see
p150) with its Neo-Gothic
spires. Enjoy too the array of
galleries and museums, The imposing Veliki Tabor castle in the Northern Counties
especially the Gallery of Old
Masters (see pp162–3), and of the Croatian aristocracy
the Meštrović Gallery (see dot the landscape, while THE NORTHERN
pp153–5) devoted to the most further away in Sisak, Ogulin COUNTIES
renowned Croatian artist. and Hrvatska Kostajnica (see
pp174–5), great castles bear • Baroque Varaždin
witness to the area’s turbulent • Dramatic castles
history. For nature, head south- • Historic spa-towns
east to Lonjsko Polje Nature
Park (see p176), home to Linked by winding country
Posavina horses, Turopolje roads through green rolling
spotted pigs and black storks; hills, the Northern Counties
and smoke-house cottages. are best visited by hire-car
from Varaždin (see pp202–3).
Once the capital of Croatia,
SLAVONIA AND 12th-century Varaždin may
BARANJA have a medieval castle and
town hall but the atmospheric
• Kopački Rit Nature Park charm of its cobbles, pretty
The Cathedral of the Assumption • Beautiful Osijek churches, and outdoor cafés
of the Virgin Mary in Zagreb • The rural charm of Topolje is pure Austrian Baroque.
The 14th-century castle Veliki
The flat, fertile plains of Tabor (see p210) looks good
CENTRAL CROATIA Slavonia contain Kopački Rit from the outside, but the
Nature Park (see pp194–5), a century older Trakošćan (see
• Fairytale Samobor wetland extravaganza of pp206–7), overlooking a
• Country houses and castles animal, fish and bird species lake, is more impressive.
• Lonjsko Polje Nature Park that is best explored by boat. Nestled in a lush green forest,
Stroll along the Drava at Varaždinske Toplice (see p213)
The least visited part of the Osijek (see pp190–3) or enjoy is a Roman spa-town that
country, Central Croatia none- a summer’s evening swim in should not be missed.
theless holds several gems. the river, hot from admiring
Just west of Zagreb, up in the Baroque architecture of
forested hills typical of the city’s 18th-century centre,
the region, lies Samobor the Tvrđa (see pp191–3). See
(see p170). With trim, the Hungarian influenced
pastel houses, wooden farmhouses in the
bridges and a pretty trout charming countryside
stream, this showcase around Topolje (see
village also offers 13th- p189), many garlanded
century ruins, great with drying chilli
walks and family-run peppers. In much of
restaurants with local the area the painful
specialities. Try local Black Stork, consequences of war
sausages with smoked Lonjsko Polje are all too obvious, but
mustard followed by Nature Park as the rebuilding
kremšnita custard shows, the astonishing
pastries. Near Zagreb, the resilience of the human spirit Chilli peppers drying in the sun in
country houses (see pp172–3) is also much in evidence. Topolje, Baranja
12 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

Putting Croatia on the Map

Covering an area of 56,542 sq km (21,825 sq miles),
Croatia has a population of around 4,437,460 with an
average of 78 inhabitants per square kilometre. Since A U S T R
the break-up of the former Yugoslavia, and Croatian

E5
7
independence, the country has been bordered by
Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia-Herzegovina and the two Graz
now independent republics of Serbia, and Montenegro.
It is not a large country, but it has a wide variety of

E66
natural and man-made environments. From a
topographical point of view the country is made up
of three types of terrain. Much is mountainous, with
peaks up to 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high, mostly covered
with forest and pasture. The vast Pannonian Plain lies

E59
E6
1
between the rivers Drava, Sava and the Danube.
Coastal Croatia is nearly 600 km (372 miles) long, but E57
over 2,000 km (1,242 miles) long when the indented
Sav
coastline is taken into account, and twice that when a

the hundreds of islands are included. LJUBLJANA

0 0 A3
E7 E7
S L OV E N I A
A31

Verona Trieste Samob

Venice
E70

A1
Karl
A9

Rijeka
E7

A8
51

C R

a
Pazin

br
A6

Do
Poreč/
3

A7
A1

Parenzo 32

42
51

Po Krk Slun
E7

Rovinj/ Krk
5

Rovigno Labin
E4

Pula/ Cres
Pola Senj
Cres 52
50

Rab Otočac
E65

Bologna 25
Losˇinj Veli Lošinj Gospić A1
E
I T A L Y Pag
50
Pag
E35

Zadar
A D R I AT I C
Dugi Otok E6
5
Florence
S. MARINO
Ancona Kornat

SEA
16

Pescara
0
E8

Satellite view of Croatia

E5
5
 P U T T I N G C R O A T I A O N T H E M A P 13

FINLAND
Györ
CROATIA AND EUROPE
NORWAY
E60

E65
ATLANTIC SWEDEN ESTONIA
E59

I A UNITED LATVIA
84

IRELAND KINGDOM DENMARK

LITHUANIA
RUSSIA
H U N G A RY THE
NETHERLANDS
BELORUSSIA

POLAND
E66 BELGIUM GERMANY
LUXEMBOURG CZECH
ATLANTIC REPUPLIC UKRAINE
OCEAN FRANCE SLOVAKIA
Lake AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND HUNGARY
Balaton
SLOVENIA
Zagreb ROMANIA
BOSNIA
PORTUGAL HERZEGOVINA
ANDORRA SERBIA
CROATIA MONTENEGRO
CORSICA KOSOVO
SPAIN BULGARIA
ALBANIA
SARDINIA ITALY
GREECE
Čakovec
MOROCCO ALGERIA TUNISIA
Varaždin
A4

Koprivnica
bio
nu
A2

Da

ZAGREB Bjelovar Dr
or
av a
SERBIA
Čazma Virovitica
A1
1

E7

1 Daruvar Osijek
0

ovac Kutina Našice

Sisak A3
O A T I A
A5

Glina Vukovar
Sa

Požega Đakovo
va

Novi Sad
6 Nova Gradiška Vinkovci
nj
Slavonski
Brod
4

E7
61 Banja Luka
61
E73

E7
E761

E7
1

BOSNIA
1
E7

HERZEGOVINA
E7
61
Knin
E7
1
E73

Drniš E760
SARAJEVO
E7
1

Šibenik Sinj
A1

Split
E73

ˇ
Solta
Bracˇ KEY
Mostar
E6 International airport
Hvar 5
Hvar
0

Ferry terminal
A1

Vis

Opuzen Motorway
Korcˇula Major road
A1
Lastovo Under construction
Mljet National Dubrovnik
Park Railway line
0 kilometres 75
International border
0 miles 50
Ferry route
i
Bar
 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A 15

A P O R T R A I T O F C R O AT I A

C
roatia forms a meeting point between the Mediterranean
and central Europe, and between the Alps and the
Pannonian Plain. Its relatively small territory is made up
of a wide variety of landscapes. A stunningly beautiful country, it
has re-emerged from the difficult years of conflict and regained its
role as a popular holiday destination.
Croatia seceded from the for 900 years, until 1918.
Federal Socialist Republic At the end of World War I,
of Yugoslavia in 1990, Croatia declared indepen-
following the first free dence but, under pressure
elections since World War from greater powers,
II. However, the brutal agreed to become part
The national flag
conflict that quickly of Croatia
of the kingdom of
followed had disastrous Yugoslavia. From the
effects on the economy and led to ruins of the Habsburg empire
the damage and destruction of many emerged Yugoslavia: a new state of
historic monuments and treasures. Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes.
The United Nations administered Few people live in the steep
disputed territories until 1995, and mountainous areas and as a result
the last region, Eastern Slavonia, the forests of this region, among the
was returned to Croatian adminis- most beautiful in southern Europe,
tration only in January 1998. are unspoilt. The coast and larger
The resolution of the conflict islands are more densely populated
recreated a country which had lost and the income from tourism is
its autonomy long ago in 1102, important to many. The political
when Croatian nobles handed the upheavals of the last decade of the
vacant crown to King Koloman. 20th century have caused a shifting
Under Koloman, Croatia became of the population and many Serbs
part of Hungary and remained so have moved away.

Fruit seller on a boat in the port of Mali Lošinj

People strolling along Krešimirova ulica in the busy centre of Split

16 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

20 per cent of the population.

The service industry is being
overhauled and provides
employment for an increasing
number of workers, mainly in
the tourist sector, which has
recovered after a decade of
recession and neglect: 7 per
cent of the population is
employed in this area.
Fisherman mending his nets in the port of Fažana
Demand for fresh fish to
POPULATION supply the tourist resorts
According to a census carried out in means that the fishing industry has
2001, Croatia has a population of revived and mussel farming has also
4,437,460, of which 4,399,364 are expanded, in particular along the
resident. Compared with the census Limski Channel and around Ston. The
of 1991 there has been a 5.2 per cent privatization of much agricultural
fall in the population and a 7 per land, and the introduction of modern
cent decrease in those resident. These machinery and the rationalization of
figures, a reflection of the upheavals crops, have reduced the number of
of the 1990s, reduce the numbers to farm workers. However, the produc-
the population levels of 1968. Two tion of fruit and wine grapes has
different factors were responsible for recovered, and overall quality is
these changes. Firstly, the departure improving significantly.
of about 400,000 Serbians (partially The urgent need to rebuild public
offset by the return of Croatians and privately-owned buildings
resident in other parts of former damaged during the conflict in the
Yugoslavia), and secondly, the 1990s and the ever-increasing
emigration of many young demand for tourist facilities
people in search of work keeps the numbers employed
in other countries in Europe, in the building trade high: 7
America or Australia. per cent of the workforce is
The tragic events of the involved in the construction
1990s have also altered industry. However, in spite
the distribution of the of an improved standard of
population, emptying villages living for most of the popula-
and concentrating populations in tion, unemployment is still
large urban centres. Chang- high. Croatia hopes to resolve
es to the size of many Woman in the typical
costume of Konavle
most of its employment prob-
towns and cities, the result lems by joining the European
of enlarging their territorial bounda- Union, and by providing land, energy
ries, make detailed analysis difficult, and labour at competitive costs. The
particularly with regard to Zagreb, building of a modern road network
Rijeka, Split, Osijek and Zadar. with the construction of new
motorways, the modernization of the
ECONOMY railways and plans to improve the
Manufacturing industries are concen- ports will also help to alleviate high
trated in the larger cities and employ unemployment levels.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C R O A T I A 17

TRADITIONS AND CUSTOMS

Since the rebirth of the Croatian
state, all kinds of traditional festivals
have reappeared. These festivals,
ceremonies or games commemorate
historical, religious and military
events. Some festivals are expressions
of primitive or ancient
One of many religious events in Split
faith, and mix Christianity with
ancient pagan rites, others are linked Folk Festival in Ðakovo and the
to the religious calendar. Traditional Moreška and Kumpanija festivals in
costumes and jewellery, carefully Korčula, commemorating battles
preserved by the older generation, against the Ottoman Turks.
are worn on these occasions. The
materials may sometimes be new but LANGUAGE
the designs stay faithfully traditional. The attempt to fuse the Croatian and
Other expressions of popular Serbian languages lasted more than a
culture are the rites linked to the century, but in 1991 the official
rhythms of farming: harvesting, language of Croatia became Croatian,
bringing flocks down from the and this is now part of the constitution.
mountains, felling trees. The Feast of The language has always been a
St Blaise, the patron saint of fundamental part of Croatian identity,
Dubrovnik, is magnificent. People even under foreign domination. The
from local and surrounding parishes people continue to use three basic
gather, dressed in splendid costumes dialects, štokavski in southern and
and displaying ancient banners in eastern Croatia, čakavski in Istria and
honour of the saint. Even the parts of Dalmatia, and kajkavski in
communists were unable to suppress Zagreb and the north. A dialect similar
this tradition. Another spectacular to Venetian is spoken along the coast.
festivity is the Olympics of Ancient
Sports in Brođanci, when young RELIGION
people parade in gold-embroidered Religious feeling has always been
costumes, followed by groups of important to Croatians. Religion was
musicians. Other important events relegated to a secondary role during
are the Festival of the Bumbari in the communist period but the great
Vodnjan with its donkey race, the sanctuaries are once again centres of
spirituality. In the 2001
census, over 90 per cent
declared they were
Christian (88 per cent
Catholic, 4 per cent
Orthodox), with a
Muslim minority, mostly
Bosnians, and a Pro-
testant minority, mostly
Hungarians. The Ortho-
dox community has
shrunk due to the fall in
The lively centre of Split, a popular meeting place the number of Serbians.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

The Landscape and Wildlife of Croatia

A wide variety of landscapes can be found in Croatia,
from wild uninhabited craggy gorges to steep river
valleys and a stunningly beautiful indented coastline
stretching into the lower Adriatic, dotted with hundreds
of islands. A plateau stretches from the Istrian
peninsula towards Gorski Kotar and ends in the hilly
vine-growing region of Zagorje. The geological
formations produced by the porous limestone terrain
called karst are found in Gorski Kotar and continue to
nearby Istria and the Velebit mountains, where the
combination of wind, rain and rock has created
strange shapes called kukovi. Nicknames and legends
have been created by folklore for these rock
formations, and for the thousands of rocky islands off Seagull perched on a rocky
the coast, remnants of an ancient mountain chain. outcrop near the island of Pag

MOUNTAINS THE PLAIN

Mountains form 40 per cent of Croatia and The plain is bordered by wide rivers which
rise to nearly 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high. The also define Croatia’s borders for much of
higher land is given over to sheep farming their length.The vast Pannonian Plain is the
and the breeding of livestock. The forests breadbasket of Croatia. Maize, wheat, soya
are mixed, with pine, fir, chestnut and and tobacco are grown here and at the
beech, depending on altitude and fringes are vine-covered hills. At one time
microclimate. The wildlife includes bears, there were forests here, dominated by the
wolves, wild boar, lynxes, badgers, foxes, Slavonian oak, much sought-after in Europe
roebucks and chamois. Forestry management for the quality of its wood. A few isolated
aims to control deforestation. remnants of these forests can still be seen.

The forests are a precious The oak of Slavonia,

resource in Croatia. Thick famous since ancient times,
vegetation covers was used to build most of
more than 30 per the ships in the Venetian
cent of the and Dubrovnik fleets,
country. because of its extraor-
dinary strength.

The Croatian
plain is one
The chamois was thought of the most fertile
to have disappeared from areas in Europe.
Croatia but there are now a Some agricultural
dozen or so animals produce is
originating from Slovenia. exported.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C R O A T I A 19

NATIONAL PARKS
Croatia began protecting wildlife areas of particular
importance in 1949 by setting up the Plitvice Lakes
National Park on the Lika plateau. A few years later,
the Risnjak National Park was founded north of
Rijeka, then in 1985 the Krka National Park north of
Šibenik. The Paklenica National Park, at the heart
of the Velebit mountain chain, dates from 1949. In
1978 it was declared a world biosphere reserve by
UNESCO and later included on the list of World
Heritage Sites. It is home to over 2,400 species of Risnjak National Park with its thick
plant. There are four national parks in the Adriatic: forests of fir and beech
the Mljet National Park, founded in 1960, the Kornati
National Park (1980), the Brijuni National Park (1983) and the North Velebit National Park
(1999). There are also nature reserves, oases, biotopes (environments characterized by
particular conditions) and two marshes: Kopački Rit and Lonjsko Polje. In 2008, Stari
Grad Plain on the island of Hvar was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

THE COAST LAKES AND RIVERS

The coast’s appearance is determined by the The lakes of Croatia are not large, but some
extent of its exposure to the fierce, northeast are truly spectacular, as for example those of
bora wind. Mediterranean flora flourishes on Plitvice and those formed by the River Krka.
the sheltered side, with olives, lemon trees The rivers are another of Croatia’s valuable
and vines. Low-growing vines are cultivated resources. The Danube, Drava, Sava and
along the central part of the coast and on Kupa are all navigable and form international
some of the islands, sheltered from the wind transport routes (although traffic is currently
by stone walls. Two common plants along partly interrupted). The rivers abound with a
the coast and on the islands are lavender, variety of fish and are a big attraction for
particularly on Hvar, and broom. fishing enthusiasts.

The marine life is Waterlilies are in flower

extraordinarily varied, with a in late spring,
wide range of species particularly
including sea-horses. in Lonjsko
Polje and
Kopački
Rit.

Broom is a common Storks live near the rivers as

sight in Croatia. In well as in protected nature
spring, it bears reserves in Croatia. The wetlands
bright yellow make an ideal habitat for the
flowers. rare black stork.
20 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

Art and Artists in Croatia

For centuries Croatian art has combined elements from
eastern and western Europe. The coast was ruled by Venice
for 400 years, and between the Middle Ages and the 17th
century, Croatia was in regular contact with the other side of
the Adriatic. Italian artists came to the islands to work, and
the Dalmatians crossed the sea and brought Romanesque,
Gothic and Renaissance styles back to their country. After
the expulsion of the Turks at the end of the 17th century,
many churches were rebuilt in the Baroque style, and
acquired rich ornamentation. The 20th century saw the
advent of Naive painting, an important artistic trend, and
sculptor Ivan Meštrović was confirmed as Croatia’s
Maria Banac, sculpture
most famous contemporary artist (see p157). by Ivan Meštrović

the cathedral in Trogir,

SCULPTURE which he started in about
1240 and which was later
The art of sculpture in completed by other artists.
Croatia has ancient origins This complex masterpiece
and may have been inspired has columns, arches,
by the local stone, used to sculpted relief figures and
construct some of the most rich decoration. It is possible
important Roman monu- to discern scenes from the
ments in Pula and Split, life of Christ such as the
which became models for Wooden panel by Andrija Buvina Annunciation, the Flight to
future generations of in Split cathedral Egypt, and the Martyrdom
Adriatic sculptors. on Golgotha, while other
Sculpture and stone in Split and lived in the 13th sculptures represent the
carving reached the height of century. The great door of months of the year. The
expression with the the cathedral of his native artist’s expressive skill is
Romanesque style. Dating city is testament to his skill. revealed in the figures of
from this time are the This masterpiece from 1214 Adam and Eve in particular.
cathedral doors of Trogir and consists of 28 wooden pan-
Split, the rose windows of els depicting the life of JURAJ DALMATINAC
Zadar and Rab, the capitals Christ, and uses simple lines
in the cloisters in Dubrovnik allied to a wealth of detail. Juraj Dalmatinac, also known
and Zadar, and much church as Giorgio Orsini, was an
statuary. The technical skills MASTER RADOVAN ambassador for Dalmatian
of the Renaissance period art, which was
are documented in Šibenik The sculptor Master Radovan greatly
cathedral, with masterpieces was of Dalmatian origin and influenced by
by Juraj Dalmatinac, Nikola lived in the 13th century. His Venice. The
Firentinac and Andrija Aleši. name appears on the door of artist was born
The stonemasons should in Zadar in
also be remembered, about 1400 and
particularly those of Korčula. died in 1475.
Decades of skilled work He was active Face by
went into Korčula cathedral in Dalmatia Dalmatinac in
and the masons’ work can and in Italy as the cathedral
be seen in hundreds of other a sculptor and of Šibenik
towns and cities in Croatia. an architect.
Sculpture again reached a The cathedral of St James in
peak in the 20th century Šibenik (see pp108–9), to
with Ivan Meštrović, the which he contributed, is
chief figure in a group of regarded as one of the
great artists which included masterpieces of the Croatian
Antun Augustinčić. Renaissance. Dalmatinac
sculpted the faces on the
ANDRIJA BUVINA upper part of the base of the
apses and also the statues of
All that is known of this The door of the cathedral of Trogir Adam and Eve at either side
sculptor is that he was born by Master Radovan of the Door of Lions.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C R O A T I A 21

people on earth (from the

ARTISTS pope to lords of the manor).

Painting in Croatia cannot LOVRO DOBRIČEVIĆ

boast a history equal to that
of sculpture since it was only Little is known of Lovro
after contact with the Marinov Dobričević (Lorenzo
Venetian school at the end De Boninis), pupil of Paolo
of the 16th century that Veneziano, who lived in the
Croatian painting emerged 15th century and is regarded
in Istria and Dalmatia. The as one of the most significant
monasteries and cathedrals exponents of the Dubrovnik
commissioned Venetian school. Two of his great
masters to make altarpieces Polyptych by Lovro Dobričević in works are in Dubrovnik: the
and in emulating these the church of St Mary of Danče Baptism of Christ (c.1448) is
models the great artists of in the Dominican Museum
Dubrovnik developed. VINCENT OD KASTVA and the polyptych Virgin,
In the late 17th–18th Christ and the Saints Julian
centuries, the Baroque style One of the most expressive and Nicholas (1465) is in the
predominated in inland cycles of frescoes in Istria church of St Mary of Danče
Croatia in architecture as bears the signature of this (Sv. Marije na Dančama).
well as art. Baroque Istrian painter, Vincent od
originated in German- Kastva (Vincenzo da Castua), JULIJE KLOVIĆ
speaking areas and inspired who lived in the 15th
local artists; the Austrian century. The frescoes are Julije Klović (Giulio Clovio)
artist Ivan Ranger (see p206) hidden away in the small was one of the most famous
was a key figure. Interest in church of St Mary (Sv. Marija Renaissance
religious paintings then na Škriljinah) in Beram. The miniaturists. A
dwindled, and in the 19th brightly coloured frescoes, on native of Croatia
century, young artists were the side walls and the inside (he was born in
inspired by pan-European façade, were painted in about Grižane in
culture. In the 1930s and 1471 with assistants and 1498), his most
40s Naive Art developed. have a primitive but vigorous significant works
style. The Life of are found
Christ and the Virgin outside the
has figures of saints; country. The
the best-known painter
work is the Dance developed his Miniature
of Death, where craft in Venice, by Klović
Death, holding a and was then
scythe, punishes summoned to work in Rome,
sinners, here Mantua, Perugia and
represented by all numerous monasteries. He
Dance of Death by Vincent od Kastva the most powerful died in Rome in 1578.

THE HLEBINE SCHOOL

Krsto Hegedušić (1901–75), Expressionist painter and later a Naive artist, founded a group
of artists called Zemlja (“Earth”). He encouraged the work of two amateur painters from
the village of Hlebine, near Koprivnica: Ivan Generalić and Franjo Mraz, who depicted
their local world on glass and canvas in fresh, vivid style. Together with Mirko Virius they
founded the Hlebine school which flourished from 1930 to the beginning of World War
II. Many other painters, including
Ivan Večenaj, Dragan Gaži, Franjo
Filipović and Josip Generalić,
followed their ideas, concentrating
on depicting the lives of outcasts,
the poor, and working folk. The
Hlebine school became a world-
wide phenomenon with the 1952
Venice Biennale and exhibitions in
Brazil and Brussels. Naive works
are on show at the Hlebine Gallery
in Koprivnica and the Museum of
Woodcutters by Generalić, Museum of Naive Art, Zagreb Naive Art in Zagreb.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

Architecture in Croatia
Croatian architecture, like its art, has also been
influenced by Croatia’s position in Europe. Secular
and religious buildings display a fusion of elements
from nearby Italy and Germany and other forms
originating in the Byzantine or Slavic worlds. This
blending of influences was first noticeable in the time
of the Romans and still continues today. Some styles
became particularly important: for example the
impressive cathedrals of the Adriatic coast, the legacy
of many centuries of Venetian rule. In inland Croatia
Baroque architecture prevails, characterized by The Byzantine basilica of
exuberant decoration and expansive forms. Euphrasius in Poreč

PRE-ROMANESQUE AND ROMANESQUE

True Croatian architecture begins with pre-Romanesque and dates
back to the time of Duke Branimir (879–92), who created the first
state of Croatia. Contact with the Byzantine world influenced the
look of religious buildings in Istria and Dalmatia but some
decorative elements reveal the first signs of Romanesque: small
churches with irregular ground-plans appear in areas inhabited
by Croatian tribes. The founding of Šibenik (1066) saw the first
Romanesque buildings, introduced by the Cistercians. The style
spread and remained popular until the end of the 16th century, and
three-aisle cathedrals with apses were built as well as monasteries
with cloisters, public buildings, town halls and loggias.
The façade consists of Romanesque The arched main
vertical and horizontal rose window door, richly
lines: the upper order is decorated The church of the Holy
decorated with blind Cross in Nin (see p100),
arcades and rose windows. one of the most interest-
ing examples of the pre-
The cathedral of Romanesque, known as
St Anastasia in Zadar the world’s smallest
(see p94), founded in the cathedral, was built in
9th century but rebuilt in the 9th century. It has a
the 12th–13th, shows the Greek cross ground-plan
links between Croatian with three apses. It is
and Italian Romanesque, positioned to ensure that
particularly in the façade, the sun’s rays fall in pre-
similar to churches found planned positions on the
in Pisa and Lucca in Italy. floor and act as a clock.

GOTHIC The door with

The Gothic style, more than any other in Croatia, is lasting evidence an ogival arch is
of the long rule of the Venetians along the Istrian and Dalmatian decorated with thin
coasts. It developed following the Venetian conquest of the spiral columns and
has two lions on
Adriatic coast (1420) and is a fundamental expression of the
the corbel.
close contact that was established. Venetian Gothic not only
influenced the design of Dalmatian and Istrian churches but Rose
also mansions in Pula, Rab, Pag, Zadar, Šibenik and Split. window

The cathedral of St Mark in Korčula

(see p132) is of Romanesque origins – the
bell tower is evidence of this. The façade
shows similarities with churches in Puglia
in southern Italy. Gothic elements include
Façade of the Town the pointed arches over the entrance door,
Hall in Split which was the work of Bonino of Milan.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C R O A T I A 23

RENAISSANCE
The Renaissance style was only able to The second storey,
develop in those parts of the country with windows and a
which did not fall under Turkish rule. statue of the city’s
The most important architects and patron saint, St
Blaise, in the centre,
artists of the time were Juraj
was a later addition.
Dalmatinac (see p20), Nikola Firentinac
and Andrija Aleši, who worked mainly The windows
along the Adriatic coast. They were in Venetian
all involved in the construction of Gothic symbolize
churches and public buildings. The the ties between
cathedral of St James in Šibenik (see Dubrovnik
and Venice.
pp108–9) became a model for the
churches of St Stephen in Hvar, St
Mary in Zadar and St Saviour in Sponza Palace in Dubrovnik (see p144) has both Gothic
Dubrovnik. Renaissance buildings also and Renaissance elements, a reflection of the time it
appeared in the north of Croatia, both took to build. It was begun in 1312 (the beautiful Gothic
in the form of private residences windows on the first floor date from this period) and
(Varaždin and Čakovec) and castles remodelled in 1516–22, when the Renaissance arcaded
(Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor). loggia on the ground floor was added.

BAROQUE
This was the style that characterized the legitimization of Christian
worship in Croatia after the expulsion of the Turks at the end of
the 17th century. The signs of Ottoman rule were eradicated and
architects, mainly of German extraction, constructed public and
private buildings, enriching them with ornate decorations equal
to those of the churches, castles and sanctuaries. The most
notable examples of the Baroque style can be found in Varaždin,
Požega, Osijek, Križevci, Ludbreg and Krapina.

Vojković-Oršić-Rauch Palace, now home of the Croatian Historical

Museum (see p158), is one of many fine Baroque buildings in Zagreb.
The façade and interior have the sumptuous decorations of the time
with elegant columns, scalloped windows and a decorated tympanum.

MODERNISM
By the 19th century Zagreb had become
the centre of political and cultural life in
Croatia, which gave it a prominent role as
leader in the architectural field. Much
experimentation took place in the following
century in the capital, inspired first by the
Viennese Secession style and later by
Modernism. The church of St Blaise and
Villa Krauss are interesting examples of
the latter style. The Neo-Renaissance Mimara Museum in Zagreb

This typically
elegant building is The decorations in Secession style
functional and are stylized and not figurative.
symmetrical

On the façade
are sculptures and
bas reliefs by the
Croatian artists
Robert Frangeš-
Mihanović and
Rudolf Valdec.
The former National and University Library in the centre of Marulić Square
in Zagreb was designed by a local architect, Rudolf Lubinsky. It is regarded
as the most significant work in the Secession style in Croatia.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

C R O AT I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R
T he upheavals of the decade
from 1991–2000 inevitably
affected the calendar of
events which characterizes the
cultural life of Croatia.
harvest, the threshing, fishing or
hunting seasons, are also marked.
In addition, every town cele-
brates its patron saint’s day and
the “town’s day”, which is linked
However, concerts, theatre to episodes in the town’s history.
seasons and sporting events Zagreb offers a rich calendar of
have now largely been cultural events all through the
resumed along with religious Typical costume
of Pag
year, while the festivals in the
festivals and events linked to towns and villages along the
local traditions. The different stages in coast are generally held during the
the agricultural year, such as the grape summer season.

St George’s Day, Senj (23 Festival of Amateur Film

SPRING Apr). and Video, Požega (end
St Vincenca’s Day, Korčula May). Screenings of short
The arrival of spring in (28 Apr). The Kumpanjija amateur films and videos.
Croatia coincides with a dance which commemorates
series of important dates in an ancient battle between
the religious calendar. Spring enemy armies is performed. SUMMER
brings warmer weather and At the finale local girls in
also sees the beginning of a costume dance in a circle. As this is the season when-
series of festivals and events most tourists visit Croatia,
which continue throughout MAY particularly Istria and
the summer. Catholic Dalmatia, this is also the
churches are especially busy Croatian Wine Exhibition, period when the calendar of
around Easter time, with its Kutjevo (May). Displays of events is busiest. There are
associated rituals. Croatian wines plus a folk- festivals dedicated to music,
lore and music programme. theatre and dance, as well
Days of Hvar Theatre, Hvar as many traditional festivals.
(May). Annual celebration of The folk festivals held
Croatian literature and theatre, throughout the summer are
as well as scientific themes particularly colourful events.
and presentations by scien-
tists from other countries. JUNE
Regatta Rovinj–Pesaro–
Rovinj, Rovinj. Dance Week, Zagreb (May/
Meeting of Puppet Jun). International
Theatres, Osijek (early May). festival of dance, movement
Performances of professional and mime, organized in
and amateur puppet theatre collaboration with European
companies. associations.
Tournament of Rab (9 May). Music events, Pula (all sum-
Parade of costumed riders mer). Various events in the
with crossbows. Roman amphitheatre.
Procession during Holy Week Festival of the Small Festival of Satire, Zagreb
on the island of Korčula Theatre, Rijeka (first half of (Jun). International festival
May). Groups from all over celebrating the satirical.
MARCH Europe participate.
Josip Štolcer Slavenski
Holy Week (Easter). On Memorial, Čakovec (first
Korčula Easter is celebrated half of May). Musical festival
with processions of dedicated to the great
brotherhoods performing 20th-century Croatian
mystery plays and singing. composer.
Festival of Croatian
APRIL Tambour Music, Osijek
(mid-May). Festival of
Musical Biennial of Zagreb ancient music with period
(Apr). Annual festival of instruments, including the The festival of Brodsko Kolo,
modern music. tambour. Slavonski Brod
 C R O A T I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 25

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Sunshine

Hours The Dalmatian coast
10 is one of the sunniest
parts of Europe, and
8
the island of Hvar
6 holds the record with
its 2,700 hours of sun
4 a year. The summers
along the coast are
2 hot and dry, while the
inland areas have a
0 continental climate
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
with hot summers and
cold winters.

(mid-Jul–mid-Aug).
Chamber music.
Split Summer (mid-Jul–
mid-Aug). A programme of
opera, concerts, dance,
theatre and performances
of the first plays written
in the Croatian language.
International Festival of
Theatre, Pula (mid-Jul–mid-
Aug). Multimedia festival
with the participation of
other European groups.
Dubrovnik Summer
Đakovački Vezovi, a folklore and embroidery festival in Đakovo Festival, Dubrovnik (mid-
Jul–end Aug). The oldest
Brodsko Kolo, Slavonski (first week of Jul). Folklore international festival in
Brod (mid-Jun). Displays of displays and exhibition of Croatia: music, theatre,
folk dancing in costume, local embroidery. folklore, ballet, with
shows and exhibitions of St Theodore’s Day, Korčula performers from many
regional produce. (29 Jul). The Moreška, a countries.
Summer of Margherita, dance re-enacting a battle Krk Summer Festival, Krk
Bakar (last week of Jun). between Christians and (mid-Jul–end Aug). Music
Concerts and performances Muslims. and prose, concerts, ballet,
in the čakavski dialect. International Tennis performances by young
International Children’s Tournament, Umag artists and folklore.
Festival, Šibenik (end (end Jul). Concerts in the Basilica
Jun–beginning Jul). Festival International Folklore of Euphrasius, Poreč
dedicated to the creativity of Festival, Zagreb (end Jul). (Jul–mid Sep). Performances
the very young. Music, Croatian music and dance of church and secular music
dance, theatre and film. with international guests. given by Croatian and
Summer Festival, Hvar Pag Carnival, Pag (end Jul). European musicians.
(Jun–Sep). A fun festival of Traditional dancing, kolo,
music, theatre, folklore and various shows
and dancing. with the local people in
traditional costumes.
JULY International Jazz Festival,
Grožnjan (Jul–Aug).
Festival klapa, Omiš (Jul). International jazz artists
Celebration of traditional participate in this festival in
Dalmatian songs performed the picturesque Istrian town
by groups of five to ten men. of Grožnjan.
Rapska fjera, Rab (Jul). For Labin Art Republic,
three days the town of Rab Labin (Jul–Aug). Classical
is returned to medieval concerts, folk music.
times, with craft displays, Music Festival, Zadar
preparation of traditional (beginning Jul–beginning
dishes and an archery Aug). Church, theatre and
tournament. instrumental music. The Moreška dance,
Đakovački Vezovi, Đakovo Osor Music Festival, Osor St Theodore’s Day, Korčula
26 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O A T I A

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

Rainfall
mm inches Rain is sparse along
300 12 the coast, particularly
10 in summer, when
240
there is often the
8 threat of drought.
180
6 However, in the
120 mountains, rain and
4 snow are plentiful.
60 In northeastern parts
2
of the country there
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec may be summer
thunderstorms.
Winter brings snow.

AUTUMN

Visiting Croatia in this

season means there are
fewer crowds, even along
the busy Adriatic coast.
However this season also
offers an unexpectedly rich
and varied calendar of
events. Many of the events
are cultural but there are also
several festivals celebrating
wine and food – offering an
ideal opportunity to discover
some of the local produce of
this country.

SEPTEMBER
Costumed jousters on horseback during the folk festival, Sinj
Festival of the Golden Strings
AUGUST Aug). Events include the of Slavonia, Požega (Sep).
Mostra, a traditional sword Festival of folk and modern
Summer Carnival, Novi dance. At one time the music using the traditional
Vinodolski (Aug). festivities ended with the Slavonian instrument the
Festival of the Bumbari, sacrifice of an ox. tamburica.
Vodnjan (2nd Sat in Aug). Olympics of Ancient Lace Exhibition, Lepoglava
“Bumbari” is what the local Sports, Brođanci (last Sun in (Sep). Exhibition of tradition-
people call themselves. A Aug). Folk festival with tradi- al hand-made lace, still made
folk festival in costume with tional costumes and musi- according to ancient
an unusual donkey race and cians playing in the streets. methods.
the preparation of crostoli, Mediterranean Sculptors’ Week of Kajkavian Culture,
cakes of Venetian origin. Symposium, Labin Krapina (Sep). Festival of
Baljanska Noć, Bale (Aug–Sep). A meeting place Kajkavian poetry, folk music
(first Sun in Aug). for sculptors from all over and painting.
Festival of the city. the world since the 1960s. International Doll Festival,
Trka na prstenac, Barban Zagreb (beginning
(first Sun in Aug). Sep).
Jousting tournament, dating Grape Festival, Buje
back as far as 1696. (3rd weekend in Sep).
Sinjska Alka, Sinj Vinkovačke Jeseni,
(beginning Aug). Folklore Vinkovci (Sep–Oct).
festival commemorating Festival of music and
victory over the Turks, with folk traditions. Parades
jousting competitions for in costume.
horse riders. Parades, Baroque Evenings in
dancing, folk music and Varaždin, Varaždin
displays of regional produce. cathedral (second half
St Roch’s Day, Žrnovo and of Sep–first half of
Postrana (on Korčula) (16 Festival of Vinkovačke Jeseni, Vinkovci Oct). Festival of
 C R O A T I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 27

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE

°C °F Temperature
30
85 The climate in
Croatia is typically
25 75
Mediterranean along
20
65
the coast, with mild
15
winters and hot, dry
55 summers. Inland the
10 climate is continental
5
45 with hot summers and
cold winters.
0 32
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec The mountainous
areas have an alpine
climate.

Baroque music with the par- The Town’s Day, Lipik JANUARY
ticipation of top Croatian and (4 Nov). Traditional festival
European musicians. celebrating the town. International Competition
for Young Pianists, Osijek
OCTOBER (second half of Jan). For
WINTER young musicians under 21.
Dora Pejačević Memorial, Feast of St Blaise, Dubrovnik
Našice (Oct). Music festival The cold makes itself felt (end Jan or early Feb).
commemorating this throughout Croatia, with the Processions celebrating
composer, with concerts, temperatures in Zagreb and town’s saint.
performances by artists and Slavonia dropping well
competitions. below freezing point and the FEBRUARY
Bela Nedeja, Kastav (first cold bora wind
Sun in Oct). Wine festival. sweeping across Istria Shrovetide Sezona,
Marunada, Lovran (mid- and Dalmatia. But Kraljevica. Traditional
Oct). Chestnut festival. Croatians still love to masked ball.
Triennial of Ceramics, go out and enjoy Carnival of Rijeka,
Zagreb (mid-Oct–mid-Nov). themselves and Rijeka. Colourful
Ceramics festival. attend cultural parade in elaborate
events. costumes.
NOVEMBER Carnival of the
DECEMBER Riviera, Opatija.
St Martin’s Day, Dugo Selo, International Violin
Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, The Town’s Day, Competition (Vaclav
Velika Gorica, Zagreb County Osijek (2 Dec). Huml), Zagreb
(Nov). A traditional wine Celebration of (first half of Feb).
festival that celebrates the Osijek’s main feast For violinists
period when the must is day with music and Costume at the Carnival under 30.
turned into wine. dancing. of Lastovo Carnival, Lastovo.

CROATIAN HOLIDAYS
New Year’s Day 1 Jan
Epiphany 6 Jan
Easter Sunday and
Monday Mar or Apr
Labour Day 1 May
Corpus Christi May or Jun
Anti-Fascist Victory
Day 22 Jun
Statehood Day 25 Jun
Victory and National
Thanksgiving Day
5 Aug
Assumption Day 15 Aug
Independence Day 8 Oct
All Saints’ Day 1 Nov
Christmas 25 Dec
Boxing Day 26 Dec
A Baroque music ensemble playing in the cathedral, Varaždin