Prepared by
Barshan Dev
Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Introduction
In today’s competitive international business environment,
companies are calling for new approaches to manufacturing.
Through the use of various computer aided technology in
apparel sector attempts to pull all of the functional areas of a
business into a cohesive, organized, interactive and
wholesome. It includes actions as product/process design,
manufacturing technology, material acquisition, information
resource management and total quality management.
Maintain New Product Minimize Maximize
Quality Development Costs Flexibility
Develop
Design
Pattern
Making
Pattern
Grading
Marker
Production
Lay Planning
3D Scanning: Nowadays, 3D
scanning technologies are
applied to different parts of
the human body and
systems are commercially
available for the
measurement of practically
any surface area of the
human body
Pattern making is a process of arranging all pattern pieces of
garment along the fabric widths so as to achieve utmost marker
efficiency. 3D Modaris software by Lectra uses traditional pattern
design tools to make pattern generation faster.
Lectra Gerber Lectra
Optitex
Modaris Technology Diamino
Ref Code Measurement Point XXS XS S M L XL XXL
A5 Length from side neck point- back 64.50 65.00 66.00 67.50 69.00 71.00 73.50
A6 Length from side neck point- front 64.50 65.00 66.00 67.50 69.00 71.00 73.50
B1 Bust (2.5 cm down from armhole seam) 35.50 38.00 41.50 45.00 48.50 53.50 59.50
B4 Across front (14 cm down from SNP) 28.50 29.90 31.50 33.10 34.70 36.30 37.90
B5 Across back (14 cm down from SNP) 30.50 31.90 33.50 35.10 36.70 38.30 39.90
C1 Waist (40 cm from SNP) 33.00 35.50 39.00 42.50 46.00 51.00 57.00
E1 Hem width 39.00 41.50 45.00 48.50 52.00 57.00 63.00
F2 Shoulder Seam 6.10 6.50 7.00 7.50 8.00 8.50 9.00
G1a Sleeve length from shoulder- long 59.45 59.85 60.25 60.65 61.05 61.45 61.85
H2 Armhole straight 17.90 18.40 19.00 19.80 20.50 21.40 22.20
J1 Bicep- 2.5 cm below underarm 13.05 13.80 14.80 15.80 16.80 18.10 19.70
J3c Sleeve opening- long 8.90 9.20 9.50 9.80 10.10 10.40 10.70
K1 Back neck width 23.80 24.40 25.00 25.90 26.80 27.70 28.60
K3 Minimum neck stretch 33.00 33.00 33.00 33.00 33.00 33.00 33.00
K4 Front neck drop 15.60 15.80 16.00 16.30 16.60 16.90 17.20
K5 Back neck drop 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.70 2.90 3.30 3.70
n/a Depth of sleeve and hem 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
n/a Depth of neck binding .70 .70 .70 .70 .70 .70 .70
Many CAD companies are working for developing 2D to 3D design system whereby 2D
pattern pieces can be virtually sewn together by computer to examine the fit and drape
on a virtual 3D mannequin. Garment can be viewed with fabric designs/textures and
drape characteristics for a realistic image, thereby creating a virtual sample
Function
Garment Fit in
Various fabrics
Drape
Modeling Development Virtual Review
of Sample
3D Garment Fit in
Visualization Color Ranges
Pattern placement and seaming process
Seaming in Lectra and CLO consecutively
3-D Window
In 3-D process, the first step was to select appropriate
mannequin
Pattern Placement
3-D simulation
Fabric choose
92% Cotton+ 8% Elastane
Color indication
3-D 2-D
3-D 2-D
3-D 2-D
Computer aided manufacturing deals with the practices and
different stages of the garment making with the help of
computers.
Plotting Spreading Cutting
Surface Embroidery Printing
Ornamentation
Latest plotter systems have replaced traditional paper pen and other
tracing and marking techniques. These days the plotters are connectable
to computer systems and can plot files received though the Internet.
ALYS Plotter of Lectra
Remote Maintenance
Traditional spreading methods are generally performed with manually. That generally leads to
increase in work time and labor fatigue. Latest spreading machines are inclusive of pattern
making software's. Spreading instruction and layout can be fed directly from pattern making
software's. ProgressBrio55 of Lectra corresponds directly with CAD workstations and cutting
machines, creating significant time and material savings and eliminating the possibility of
errors.
Tension Free High Perfect Fabric
Lays Flexibility Alignment
YIN CAD
The use of latest cutting machines integrated with the computerized instructions for the
fabric cutting has become the main obligation for superior and quality garment production.
Enterprise resource
planning (ERP) Lectra
New markers can
be directly sent to
the marker making Gerber
stations
Computer integrated sewing machines have sped up the sewing process.
Brother
Juki and
Singer have a wide range of computer integrated sewing machine models
Programmable
Sensitive Touch Stitch Length Needle
Button Control Regulator Positioning
Programmable Pressure
Threading Measuring
Systems Sensors
Computerized embroidery machines can be used to produce fine, multi
coloured intricate motifs in very less time
Feeding of design is generally easy and quick. Similarly, textile digital
printing techniques onto T-shirts and leather accessories in water based
pigment colours with excellent wash fastness properties.
Software such as Wilcom is used for creating embroidery designs digitally
& it is connected to embroidery machine. Designs can be feed and
according to the command embroidery is done on the fabric.
Popular Internet systems work successfully for the buyers and
consumers to review garment style, appearance, fit and
suitability.
With the use of the combination of the latest Computer Aided
Designing and cutting technology, drape models are
incorporated in the Internet websites for virtual shopping.
There can be a significant improvement in productivity &
quality, leading time to drop with the use of computers in
Apparel Sector. It can also be helpful for waste reduction
in pattern designing, grading & alteration time. It gives
greater flexibility in pattern designing, grading and
marking. It saves time, energy by increasing quality of
cutting room, reduction in sample making time, increase
in monthly productivity and decrease in lead time.
Thank You
