ANNUAL RESTAURANT AWARDS SPECIAL iN iy i on 0 Yi ee AUSTRALIA'S BEST RESTAURANTS THE TOP 95 L SEAN MORAN’S FAMOUS ROAST CHOOK Pte mC Ne el eee OTe Te ND)eo LOBSTER E FU NOODLES ener Ina garlic butter sauce Pernt) CHEFS cHorce: CATCH Local lobster is grilled to perfection in this buttery seafood noodle dish. Living away from his fomiy forthe first time at boarding school when he was 13, Sam Young discovered the power of home-cooked, authentic. food to bring people joy. Today, Young says bringing smiles to faces isstll what he strives to do ati Sydney restaurant, Smore Known as many things, from self proclaimed Big’ Sam, to the lobster guy’ and a ‘noodleholic ‘Young describes his personality and cooking style as “ight n your face He's famous for using premium ingredients and bold favours. nits first year, Sore has served more than 3,000 lobsters sourcad from Red Claw Seafood. "Being consistent, and using the best produce is really the core of my cooking style,” says Young. "Iam a very particular guy when it comes to lobster, thas to be between 700 and 800 grams, because | find the meats the sweetest in that range” For Young, starting with the right ingredients ond equipment is key When you use the bast ingredients ‘and you apply the right cooking method, §0 per cant ofthe battle i already done,” he says. “Once you have the best cooktop and the best ingredients i's easy onyA) Electrolux ELECTROLUX 900MM ULTIMATETASTE 9004 ZONE HYBRID INDUCTION WITH GAS BURNER COOKTOP, $4,299 (CHHO57B0) With Hob2Hood technology, ths induction cooktop ‘automatically switches on your compatible rangehood (not Shown) when youstart cooking and adjusts the fan speed based ‘on how the cooktop is being uted. lt features four induction zone, slowing you to cock a varety of dhes at the same time, plus a dual flame gaa wok burner, so you can analy switch between cooking modes #0 get the best results for any recipe. swircH ERATURES RING ‘TO BUY ONLINE, VISIT HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU, OR CALL 1300 GO HARVEY (1300 464 278) Ends 17/09/23, Horvey Norman® stores ore operated by independent frenchisees. Images for illustrative plOVER 900 DESTINATIONS TO EXPLORE. Contact your travel advisor, call 1300 306 872 or visit silversea.comicurious@SILVERSEA TO THE CURIOUSMOST SATISFIED spoken, awarding accolades yy where they count, in the heort of the home. Both accolades acknowledge Smeg's dedication to world- class engineering, design excellence and unmatched customer service. smeg.com.au cone MADE IN ITALYlloe mene . Xe ae RH t PRPs ana ence ea aes et Expedition Wildlife ie Metin ase Co Perey aie pe) a SEABOURN FOR MORE INFORMATION, eo R UREN MUO! SEABOURN.COM | 13 2402Pcs Wii aa ome Seema 2 kssest, US =a Uy Asbo aig oki AS ela ela at= ~ I RYayoxe 9 BSCR Tad Sea ed er ken Pere ee Pe Rene eens Se eed eorecy a eas pes a] eon oe Cees Sete ram Ce pour 02 Pec fort 403 ey fone cs ec Ce Pee aes pee eee een en Pee Cy ee ee on ee fees or Cee cece Perens ory eo ee) ee nerPoTOCRAPHY BN DEERME ONG) KONRAD KASIE YEN, PTEMBER 2023 ON THE COVER eed cnok rasta wth meee THE TOP 95 Recipe Ssan Moran Photography Bon Doamloy ‘Sing Bom’ Smthies Pa supscriBe mmagshopcomauGMT Detats pis Drinks 39. DRINKS NEWS Now openings and expert tps WINE PEOPLE viaie Tattnger. WINE LIST, READY Wes Goodwin's top crops. TOP HONOURS samantha Payne exons wine judging. 4G COCKTAIL HOUR Blackberry Buck Regulars UPFRONT Edtor’s eter andnews. FIVE OF A KIND x0 sauce. COMMUNITY X KYLIE Aunty Serv Van-Oplos. ‘THE KITCHEN GARDENER Papaya or pawpaw. EVERYDAY simple, ast everyday meats, MASTERCLASS Jos Nilanc'sFronched fish culos ‘THE ART OF TRAVEL Traveling light (CHECKING IN The Westin Bsbane. STYLE Fashion, beauty and home. 4, OBJECTS OF DESIRE cuter Features 70 7A 79 DINING REPORT Explore the key restaurant trends shaping the way we dine in 2023, ‘SUPERSIZE ME ‘Alexandra Carlton explores why Australian restaurant ‘groups are going through a growth spurt GT ANNUAL RESTAURANT AWARDS Presenting the winners ofthe Gourmet Traveler ‘Annual Restaurant Awards. GT ANNUAL RESTAURANT GUIDE Celebrating the most exceptional dining experiences. to be found across Australia in the coming yeat PARADISE FOUND Lunury i taking root on a tiny standin Eastern Indonesia. Discover why Sumba is a more thoughtful ternative to Bal uaeRestaurant ready ‘Plencon te headana prin, $420. ‘2 the tench coat $1790. '3 Te Sice chopping board win Teather nang, $28190 {4 The shade actate sunglasses, $2290, haratofind.comau/GT 2 cours reaver COURMES Joanna Hunkin Editor Deputy Ector Anna MeCooe ‘ting art ireetor Jou Togs Degner Helly Doran create Consuftant Hennah Blackore Words Senor Subeltor Suzanna Criss ‘News Eater Jordan Kretchmer ‘aitorial Coordinator Chats Wena Pood ‘roup Food Director Sophia Young ‘Senior Food Eater Boric Smith Digital Dial Managing Elta Joyce Malis ‘Digital Editor Corde Vilomeon Contributors Alesana Coton, Ned Goodin. Michel Harden, Anna Hart Matty Hise, Fe Kwong, Benga Lule, Tstan Lute, Samantha Payne, Simon Reka (Choe Sechaow Katie Span, Max Veonhuyzen, Kaya Wetter OOO e0urmetsavetier © =kg2umetaromeciacom au ae (GOURMETTRAVELLER.COMAU ‘end ye Medi nied ABN 059279546 8 Se NW 20902) Siete snc amet Pome bepapny stacy ieA ree ci gl Fatatla EXCEPTIONAL CULINARY CRUISING OCEANIA CRUISES IS YOUR GO-TO. FOR DESTINATION-FOCUSED VOYAGES, IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES AND FAMED GOURMET MENUS BOTH ONBOARD AND ASHORE Salling with Oceania Cru ‘Oceania Cruises offers an increible array of carefully cr ed 2024 voyages sailing fi cites such 8 Rome, Barcelona and Athens shard the upper premium ere line's fet of designer inspired smal ships. Across 94 and 2025, ranging from lester known gem, with small-group shore excursions providing an immersive dive into he egion’ history and cultures ~ and, of ‘course, the mouth-watering cuisine ‘Oceania Cruises Food & Wine Tals and Culinary Discavery Tour offer the Mediterranean cooking, with intimate food and wine-focused shore excursion designed The Fincst Cusine at Se’, cafted by master chef Jaeques Pepin, plea rae wine collection featuring 80 iconic labels fom the world’s top vineyards “Our urate, diverse range of shore ship, offer the perf huxury ho says Jason Worth, Vice President Sales and General Manager Asia Pacifi (Oceanis Criss. al dining are what makes Oceania (Crulsseo unique ‘WE ARE DELIGHTED TO OFFER SUCH AN EXTENSIVE RANGE OF DESTINATION-INTENSIVE MEDITERRANEAN ITINERARIES. COURMET Advertising. ‘Group Commercial Brand Manager Rhy Henvener “Advertaing Production Manager Kate Orsbors Brand Executive Juss Maher Senior Events Manager Cato Gaza! Director of Stes (NSW. Vie, WA and SA) Karen Holmes Head of Direct Seles (Vi, 84, WA) Jamison ‘Queensang Head of Sales Juxy Tayor ‘Creative Drector Care Catt Production Conti Sally Jers ‘Advertsing Production Coordinator Domic Roy “Advertsing enqulies advertsingcaremodia.comau Marketing, Research & Circulation Morketing Executive Sophie Crip Creulaton Menager Samanta Neon Senior Research Analyst Aa Faizciok Senior Manager Subscriptions lie Xuserels Junior Manager Subseriptlons Anja ian Are Media hier Executive offeer Jane Huey General Manager of Lifestyle Nile Syore Director of Sales Arcrew Cook Head of Commercial Contant and Creative. Sion Smith Business Manager Georgina Bromfetd tl een 50 So 408 Sy SH 200 Ae phone 129282758 Subscriptions ‘Gourmet Traveler. Reply Pid 5252, 5yney, NSW 2001 Austral, (GOURMETTRAVELLER.COMAU, ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Gourmet Traveler acknowledges the Gadigal people of the Eore Nation as the ‘woaioal custodians ofthe place we ow eal Syeney, where this megane published. Gourmet Traveler also pays respects to Eiders past and present.Editor's letter igger is not always better, particulady in the case of restaurants. But when it comes 10 ‘magazines, size matters, The bigger your book, the healthier your brand ~ and the ‘more brilliant content you get to share with your readers. Which is why Iam thrilled to present this isue hopping 190 pages of GT goodness, including our ial Restaurant Awards and Guide. ‘The Guide, which celebrates Australia’s best dining experiences, has grown to showcase 95 exceptional restaurants across the country this year, Iris out biggest Guide ~ and isste ~ in five years; the result of a whole community of people who believe in our brand and continue to support us. From che reviewers who eat theie way around each state (and spend many sleepless nights deliberating who will ‘make the Guide), to our sponsors, and the dozens of contributors who share their words, recipes, att, © and more, this issue is thanks to you. would also like to thank my team, who have put in extra hours, energy and love to bring this to life Most importantly, I would like to acknowledge you, ‘our readers, for your continued support and shared passion for Australian dining, We hope this issue will spark new adventures and rerun visits to old friends. Congratulations to all our winners and those Pee a featured in this year's Guide o- os itor’s letter Ban Cat a (—— WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH Ae axe ‘Hycroconquest GMT Never Never Distiing Co frst launched in 2007, the ‘Grenache Gin rmuctlovedviycroconquest Promising tasting notes of fesh collecton has been redesigned backers and buttered erumpes, Te eatire Longnes’exchve [Astaoncstilry Never Never hes Lie ii CGT movement king ta ‘outdone tel wth ksarenace ah : power reserve of up to 72 nous. neverneverlstiing.com.au 4 Tongines.com Its ben 50 yeas shee Lgne Roset uncndtis cone 08 Ino the wel, nsited by" ube ‘oftoothpass” To celebrate the ‘domo.comat ‘range Wine Festival the Orange Wine Festal which ‘all 22e 3 month ef ne canes ‘oranges6o.comauDishes and destinations The Gourmet Traveller team share where Reine and La Rue, Melbourne Ts aman guava paste and duck wer parfats yout fist sens ea 1 gett Reine ardLa Rue Nemad Groups new Mobourne tempties. The nex he fermer ban chamber locaton wth high eeings end sostng ves, then the ‘hatp shooting Frenenbrassere mend Jorden Kretehmer news eltor 16 cour reavewee they've been and what they cating, Shell House, Sydney ‘The bight ruby tones ofcoutiem bust tune pared wih the snap anc ace of seaweed etver a mutistensory opening ofa inch et ‘Shell House. Especlaly when pared witha ass ‘fersp Champagne ana Syane/s get wnt ‘Sun tieaming trough open trace coos. Soanna Hunk, editor Enclume a Bathers'Paviton, Sydney ts not ofenyou eat wth your hanes at {a tree Mien star restawont But Lenclume’s Syeney esgency thew ou he ules, startng ts mut-couse feast th ngeroec ke ts sensational Rice Krspie-esque pork and smoked co ite 2 ‘Cordelia Wllameon, cgtal editor inetner youre hong Cape to Cape Songs Deenes or noug at thisfegon has tak Grab a bot fom fone ofthe mary award winning ‘srepes arc watch he sun set over the fcean in hisstunning pocket of WA, Holly Doran, designer Longshore, sytney Just one pat tn ereatve snack ght menu at Longshore, ese hay abate party pes ath mushroom Kelner 1 8 hdeod tavourt but are brought to a place of vine edt sopniscaton We wont judge you fyou ck up every lst crumb. Charlotte shar, eltoral coordinatorPATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 4947/1A BEGIN YOUR OWN TRADITION Lier 0221 20932. Ol] FOR MORE INFORMATION, eo Kam MLL \TSar Uae) 9 SEABOURN.COM | 13 2402 moe <esi eR era Rn Diane eae eon ey Te eae NK RAR Tol so Dern er octet en 3 s eA CRSA eke een Le ae Cr a eu ko oa aU ke Pea Cor erent betel ier toss a Per ne Nene ee Rese be 9 RCO eM ee Re Ry Cece aes JOURNEY BEY@NDSEPTEMBER — iRESTAURANT NEWS Clockwise rom above: Raj’ strect comm tatets fd ts ing room: chef Stoven Sinclar at Teckzone on George. SYDNEY Former Firedoor talent Ahana Dutt Is heading up the kitchen at newcomer Raja in Potts Point. it comes from the team behind the neighbouring Ezra, and with that you can expect a colourful and convivial take on Indian culsine, more speeticaly inspired by Mumbal. Drawing pon Dutt’ time living and working in Mumba, the menu takes Australian ‘menu staples and adds Indian condiments, spice mxes and takes. Starters like oysters, stracciattela and albacore tuna get amped up with plum spiced sweet chutney; achaar (Indian lime pickles and gunpowder (an ‘essential South Indlan condiment) respectively. Small plates include beot tartare and masala-spiced clams while mains include butter garlic. pepper crab: and a Goan take ona spicy sour curry with John Dory ll eady to be mopped Up with rice and naan, Romantic yet playful interors have called upon the extravagance of Bollywood as 2 reference point, and are joined by ‘2 PS40-curated cocktail list. (Circular Quay is ready for the long-awaited arval of the reimagined Jacksons on George, fronted by creative director Maurice Terzinl, Chef Steven Sinclair is coming over from Icebergs Dining Room and Bar to lead the three-level project. On the street level Sinclair wll oversee zhuzhed up counter Classics and pub snacks, perhaps slow-cooked duck sausage rolls or Moreton Bay bug buns with spiced Vadiouvan mayonnaise. Above, Bistro George will see Australian produce ‘mezged with American and European ‘eto restaurant classics, including buttery clams casino; sat- and brandy Cured Ora King salmon gravlax served with blnis and cultured cream; sat: crusted ribeye with sauce au pore oF béarnaise; and a banoffee sundee. ‘Act ll also be an Important feature In Jacksons on George's interiors, with ‘Sycney-based interior design and architecture studio Richards Stanisich working on the fitout and artworks by atists-inesidence including Kaylene Whisky, who is best known for winning the 2018 Sir John Sulman Pr2e, ‘Smoky embers, hot flames and dry-ageing are atthe forefront of Postica, a now 120-seat bar and orl from the team behind Loulou Bistro, Head chef Connor Hartiey Simpson brings experience from working atNews 4 Clockwise rom left Ora king salmon graviox st Jackeons on George: snacks at Poetca Studio ‘Amaro's team. fa three-Michelin-star restaurant in San__In the kitchen chef Daniel Migliaccio will Francisco, The mains ae civided into _bring his italian heritage to the pans, three sections: chareaal, wood and hile Vitora’s four distinct seasons wil dry-aged, to represent the array of ensure an ever-changing menu cooking techniques. Sydney rock celebrates talan classics with a local oysters served with rjuda and approach. "We've got a custom wood 1 guindlla popper are topped with cl for antipast! and mains, house-made sizzling beet fat: sugar loaf cabbage bread and pasta, plus our focaccia Is wood-fired and comes with smoky recipe that has been In the works for red butter and tried garlic: and whole eight months,” says Blacher Of course, rainbow trout is butterfled ancl giled _cocktall.wse, every level wil embrace ‘over wood, then served with fresh ll, __amaro, “The classics, Negroni Sbaglito, lemon, shallots and brown butter. and alving deep into the bittersweet Acry-ageing cabinet willhouse bones flavour profil. Plus a list of 40 to 50 and tomahawks; and there's also amares to work through" And music wl dry-aged flash-gilled swordfish; and bo another cornerstone of the venue. slow-cooked pork owl in black gate "Tm working with local music curators ‘and honey glaze. Wine-wise, aheary that have delved pretty deep into Napoll Australian list wil focus on icons Italo-isco. It be good drinking music ‘through to up-and-comers. An adjoining without being a club says Blacher. bar and terrace wil look after North Melbourne isin the midst of a spicy Sydney's aftersvork eet with craftbeers Thal resurgence, and siblings May and and bar snacks, Nat Pongvattanapom are the second {generation restaurateurs behind the MELBOURNE ‘new Kan Eang on Flinders Lane. ‘Windsor is set to welcome Studio Harnessing recipes from the family's ‘Amaro, a dey-tomnight alo-cisco-mects- cooking heritage, the palris also putting lining space on Chapel Street from the __new-wave twists on each of the dishes. team behind Commune Group (Firebird, Avocado green curry sees the rich Moorhouse and New Quarter).“Thete's staple added to the wellloved Thal long history of haan food in classic. Fred rice gots an unctuous Molbourne so we're not reinvionting the makeover wth black truffle paste and ‘wheel. We want to be approachable _shiltake mushrooms, and Is served with =Just good times and quality food, says a cured egg yolk and oven-roasted bone creative director Simon Blacher. Housed marrow. Lemongrass sticks pierce boot ‘within alighted new building replete (‘Marinated with Thal herbs we call The ‘with curved concrete, the restaurant will Three Thai Musketeers: coriander root be spread actoss two levels. Interior garland white peppery says designer Wendy Bergman is on board Pongvattanaporn) and come served with toreallse thebrief—"to create a space __@ coconut-based sauce with peanut. that's retro and Italian but net to be Alongside these lef-of-centre plays themed.” To this end expect corduroy __you'l nd classic str-fes, rice dishes orochaehy SEVEN WOODBURN OETA) banquettes, revo ting and timber floors. and cules, plus colourful cocktals, ccourmer ravetsen 28Clockwise from "ight por and ‘rote at La Alexis Bossenu: rileteule and ADELAIDE Ina gutsy move, chef Kirby Shearing has ‘opened a 35-seat restaurant in the back streets of rural Mount Gambit. Shearing spent 18 years working In restaurants across Australia and the UK before deciding to focus on Limestone Coast farmers, growers and community. His. newly opened Elementary by Soul Co serves asix-to eight-course modem Australian dining experience (made Using regional produce, where locals Iterally tur up with excess fruit and veg) accompanied by an impressive sake callection and exciting local wines. In the C2O, La Louistane is anew ‘semi-permanent restaurant from the teams behind Anchovy Bandit and Memphis Slim's House of Blues, Head chet, Alexis Besseau (former head chef Restaurant Hubert and Bathers’ Pavilon) has made the move from Sydney to Adelaide to head up the kitchen. Big, bold brasserie dishes are the bref and Inckide beef tartare, a rich paté en crodte with comicnon, sails with garlic butter and cheese soutie, To match the menu there's also live jazz mus a French-leaning, cellar-aiding wine list, ‘and six signature cocktails, each named after cult French fms. While at this stage the walk:in-only restaurant isnt permanent, there are plans to secure a long-term location. BRISBANE The Callle's Lobby Bar has undergone a refresh, inspired by the James Street hote!’s extensive organic rooftop garden and beehives. Head chef Andy Gunn has reapproached the menu wit help from his wife and pasty chef, Amélie Gunn. To sult the Brisbane climate, the pale has devised French-ieaning fresh spins on breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, including French-toasttramistt ‘and crépes with rooftop honey to star ‘reshly baked baguettes for lunch; and stoak fites and cocktals inthe evening, In other hotel bar revamps, The Reserve Wine Bar has opened at Emporium Hotel South Bank. The wine bar has more than 3000 top global and local crops avaiable by the bottle or lass. A Coravin preservation system allows quests to sample up to 50 wines by the glass and Enomatic rotating dispenser allows for even more to be explored, There's also a grazing menu spanning duck and chery paté; bacalao croquettes; and crisp fried qual,ON THE PASS wit sustin sames. We chat to Restaurant Botanic's US-born executive chef one year ‘on from the Adelaide fine diners 2023 Restaurant on the Year win. ts been a year since Restaurant Botanic won Restaurant of the Year. What has the year since looked lke? I's been a wid ide. sald (nthe night [ofthe Awards} coming to Austalla and then winning that ‘award, has been lke a dream, After was announced everyone {around me was saying “That's yout” but |Just had to st there an ett soak in, Coming back from Sydney, Iremember saying to the team We're ust going to keep doing what wore doing ‘can you explain the Restaurant Botanic philosophy? I's about the Botanic garcons, Not ust the food, but how i's served, how you eat it. Los of things are served with rocks and leaves. Not fr aesthetic purposes, but because ft glvesa sense of the Gardens, We have a dish where there's a rock thats been painted and then you pick up the rock and you lek that, and then undemeath the rock there's a leaf and then you eat the leaf, You know sometimes you'e walking down a path and then for some reason you pick up a rock and getthe urge to Tick | don’t know, is that just me? Anyway, the point is we don't take ‘ourselves too seriously but wo are serious about what we do. Lwant ‘guests to come and have a good time and feel heard and seen and welcome, an fee! lke they'e living thelr best ves forthe four hours that they ving n my world, n my four wal. How do you straddle the line between bizarre and wonderful? its. balancing act. na world with so many well-executed menus, you {got to a point whore quests are expecting to see "money" dshes, Ike wagyu or caviar While love all of those ingredients, luxurious cooking tomes creating something unique. And thats what woe trying to do, Youte going to get kangaroo wit camel hump on i Then you might (get some caviar next. And then ate crocodile after that tthe end ofthe day Im tying to give my guest a oncen--Ifetime experience that you're nat going to get anywhere else inthe world What's the plan for the next year of Restaurant Botanic? Got bettor ‘everyday Wo'e only as good as our last service. That's how | determine how we're going and where we''e at sa constant grind and hustle to get better. Always asking, how do we continue to Innovate and create but also not repeat what we've done ‘restaurantbotaniccomau vi qe SUPPER CLUB Alove of restaurant qualty olve oll {ond functionality) inspired Supper ‘Supply's Main Squeeze. The simple squeezy bottle i file with 500m ove oll sourced locally rom a family-owned olive grove In Victoria, and Supper Supply's olve oll subscription rfl service means you'll not have to think about using sub-par olve oil again suppersupply.com.au PICKLE ME Adelalde-based fermenting fok Nice Pickles has cracked open the roller door toa now factory that functions ikea pickle cella door CChofs and keen cooks can como ‘sample the range and buy the slonature pickles by weight. Pop in ora jerk bean fix or gata table's worth of table pickles, The partsclence lab, par grocer hopes to also host events anc lunches down the tack. ricepickies.comClockwise from above: chefs Peter more nc ‘Wagner preparing his signature lsh. ware, CHEF SHOWDOWN South Australian chef Robin Wagner, who turned 30 this years set to represent Australia on a global stage next month, when he fles to Milan for the prestigious ‘Pellegrino Young Chef Academy grand finale. This is the last stage of the global culinary contest, which selected is finalists from regional rounds across the glabe. Wagner will be joined by Industry veteran Peter Gore, who wll mentor him throughout the competion, Gilmore was one ofthe judges whe crowned Wagner the regional winner last yea, after his signature dish of smoked celerac, Granny ‘Smith apple and crisp taro Impressed the panel of top Australian chefs. ‘What blew me away was the levels of texture and flavour that he achieves essentially from just three ingredients i's a credit to him and his lateral thinking how these ingrectente ‘an be transformed through cooking,” says Gilmore, "it wll blow out any misconceptions [of vegan cooking] once they have tasted this cish” Wagner will now present that dish to the International judging panel in Milan, competing against #4 other ising culinary stars from around the worl. Based in the Barossa Valley, Wagner has worked his vay through the ranks over the past decade in kitchens across Germany and Australia, including Sepia, Lake House and Magll Estate Restaurant. In December, he stepped into his fst head cho role at Artisans of Barossa, ‘Speaking about his competition dish, Wagner says he wants to make diners consider fruit and vegetables as rightful stars, not support acts. “I wanted to create ‘something which has the ability to make quests think ~ even ifthey are not vegetarian or vegan — about how amazing it must be to experience a plant-based dish. A cish that could get compared to wagyu, caviar and lobster” says Wagner. Wile the dishes vl be atthe crux ofthe competition both mentors andl young chefs alike are excited for the competition to resume in its fl International capacity for tho frst time since 2018, Gimore Is quletly confident in Wagner's dish and skils “Robin Is an Impressive young chef and he's in with a very good chance,” says Giimore. “it doesnt matter what the resut Is, I's the overall experience. Any time ‘a young professional puts themselves out there, I's immeasurable how much doing ‘something lke tis can teach you" Enis for next year's SPellegrino Young Chef Academy will open in early 2024. sonpellegrinoyoungchefacaciemy.comTHREE OF THE BEST Koko Black ‘Australian chocolatier has intoduced four new bars, inclucing a caramolised coconut dark eation. Balancing the sweetness of cocorist and the depth of dark chocotate makes ths a moreis block, kokoblackcom, $9.90 6) arent coxa r Dre etree nes hese fice Mae ve iaepenon cocoate puny ocete thecato lemonade. hoc Dlr stewcoes thebeats Sisters con 80 ©) Hunted and Gathered Made in Melbourne, these ethically sourced chocolate bars are made with Just four ingredients. The number 7 in the ranges an outstanding example of the brand's goods: fragrant and aromatic yet sweet and well rounded hhuntedondgathered.com au, $750 —_ CANTEEN CALLING Good news for Sycneysiders who have harboured a flowertopped, ‘muithlayered cake sized hole in their lives ever since pastty chef Andy Bowden ‘and partner Macidison Howes closed the doors on thelr beloved daytime eatery ‘Saga earlier this year. The duo Is back, and ths tine around they have teamed Lup with Israeli chef Michael Rantiss, best known for his work on Kepos Street Kitchen, on thelr next venture. The trio's new Rosebery lunch spot has daly-changing seasonal salads, vegetables and proteins all on splay, with ‘much ofthe produce sourced trom Carriageworks Farmers Market. This will be Joined by a deli section, packed out with takeaway sandwiches, ips, abundant salads and, to the delight of many, Bountiful baked goods, many of which are destined to become pasty icons, much like Bowden's previous sweet ventures. salmascantoen.com.auSUNSET DREAMS Sus beyond the coastal fever éroam that is Byron town, the Northern Rivers Hinterlands offers a Bounty of produce. rling hil an excellent vibes, Local Intrlor designer Jula Ashwood (now for her work at Te Sunseeker and Ettham Hote ang ame Blakey foxmer designer and founder of fashion brand One Teaspoor) know this al oo wel Together, they have tapped into ths magic with their new propety, Sun Ranch, n Coopers Shoot. Comprising afve-room guest house and sit we beeroom bas, the project cals upon eclectic Inuences, with rofrencos to Calfornian and Utah ranehos and a rosearch tp ta Mexico, al seen though a niquoly Byrn lone t's a hotel of good times leaning int the cosmie Byron vibes but also ranctying ft We'e airing tings around he fl moon, We want you ta have a testo, mel really etint says Ashwood “he Lair Sun Ranch’ tonal take onthe cassic hotel lb ~ makes st Impressions court “t's our on White Lotus moment ~ te origina homestead propety inspires the way people move through it” Aer his uosts can sink downto tho basalt 25-mot pool r oad back to sink into one of the velvet lounges. Guests can also aed on hose tra rides with Byron's Zepyhr Horses, range a cacao ceremony om massages asttology readings or sound healing. For those wanting a more tangbe experience the team has aso called Clocks tom top et: upon loca cet Pip Sunbak athe Sun Ranch'schetnresidence Sun Rane Whiskey Lounge “Eversthing’ been dergned with uch cae, tha want to create something a that people wl realy remember” says Suma. To this end, she't be working ‘munch orcourements ver an Argentinian gil sing and curing ine-caught fish, cooking In banana leaves and seasoning produce with herbs rom the native garden “ve based a ototit om working on private islands over the years, We're sunounded by a wealth of deliciousness nee, andre wil be tho centrepece Sumbak wll also oversee breakfoss served in The Lai." be puling back to my Estonian Toots, so there willbe ry bread, smoked fish and fot of ferment says Sumbok For quests wo are slower tig, tere wl ais Be cofee ane pasty drops at thor door Whether its inthe rooms, bythe olor eating a fre-cooked feast. the tear, which spans both creative and hosptalty nduses, jst want you to slowdown and soa up the fe-ga0e moments Blakey says," a salto the-art expertence butts aso al about having al he ky points From $850 per night. sunrench coma@ ILVE Your passion for cooking has finally met its match. Live, Cook, Love. offers on ILVE apy isitlve.promo eT‘As the days get longer and the weather a litle warmer, it’s hard to beat the landscapes of Central West NSW in Spring. Paddocks come alive in corpets of green and gold as Canola, Barley and Wheat ripen for harvest ‘across the countryside, and cherry and stone fruit blossome brighten trees for the bounty ahead, It's in the Orange region, NSW that this scenery provides the perfect backdrop for a Wine Festival or weekend tasting of cool-climate wine with friende. ‘The ‘Orange Wine Region’ provenance has a footprint which covers the City of Orange and parte of the ‘eurrounding Cabonne and Blayney Shires, It limi uniquely defined by elevation with 600 metres the lower limit and the Region's highest vineyards top ‘a spectacular 1000 metres. These high altitudes dramatically affect the climate of Orange with warm (but rarely hot) summer days yet cool nights, cold, frosty winters, and occasional snow. These weather patterns help define the coo! climate wine of the Orange region, Emerging from winter, what better reason to visit this Region than to savour the taste of Spring at the Orange Wine Festival. Returning to the heart of the picturesque Orange region with a month-long program, All year round. from 29th September to 29th October, this year's highly anticipated Festival promises an extraordinary celebration of the regions cool-climate wine, wine culture and producers, attracting connoisseurs, enthusiasts, and travellers from near and far. The Orange Wine Festival is brimming with « huge number and range of events that showcase the Orange wine region at its best. These include behind~ the-scenes access to wineries, meet-the-maker opportunities, fantastic culinary experiences paired with the region's award-winning wines and wine ‘education sessions, interspersed with the 40+ cellar door activities and tastinge available all year round, This ie a full-on celebration of o unique cool-climate wine region - where altitude is the difference! The 2023 Orange Wine Fe vineyards, unique terroir and di seasoned wine aficionados to those discovering their palate, there's something to delight every taste bud. heroes the diversity of netive varietals, From Immerse yourself in the enchanting allure of the Orange region in Spring ~ the colour palettes are bold, as they are delicate, and the wines are pure joy.etry ag Se reraies pec tot ere lt)\ (aCea Hungerford Hillis proud tobe the wine partner of this year’s Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Awards. Pairing one of Australia’s most successful winemakers with the Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Awards makes for the ultimate match. ‘cated in Australia's oldest wine region in the New South Wales Hunter Valley, Hungerford Hill has garnered a reputation for world-class wines, especially its exceptional chardonnay, shieaz and pinot noir. The Hunter Valley is home to Australia’s frst commercial vineyards and isthe bisthplace ofthe nation’s forward-thinking winemaking cultuee. Today, the Hunter Valley is one of the ‘most visited wine regions in Austealia and produces a ange of leading wines. While its history is steeped in significance, the innovation continues to thrive, and Hungerford Hill ‘winemaker Bryan Currie is part of new generation of winemakers atthe helo, Hungerford Hill «leader in producing exp sndls proud in its rich history se Hunter Valley Tumbarumba and Hillrops regional wines ofthe highest quality embracing innovation in its winemaking, awardavinning esate and allencompassing food and wine experiences The Pokolbin location has two bespoke tasting experiences at the cellar door while the awardovinning Muse restaurant offers one of Australi Troy Rhoades with an empha: finest regional dining experiences with chef own serving contemporary Australian cuisine ‘on seasonality and Hunter Valley produce Grape craft erence eed Pec rent ott coo ot DISCOVER MORE ABOUT HUNGERFORD HILL'S AWARD-WINNING FOOD ‘AND WINE EXPERIENCES, HUNGERFORDHIL.COM.AU. Hungerford Hillone ara) Pa a XO sauce TV RO nu nereC rT FeO aN eee ee a Cantonese luxury, butit’s Pe neo rcsAUNTY BERYL VAN-OPLOO Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow astronger community. This month, we meet mentor, caterer, and elder, Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo. When Lucky Kwong was being built, | 100k lacal Elder ‘Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo in for a sneak peek. She looked around the space, quietly taking It all in and the first thing she said to me was, Kylie, | can feel Lucky's spirit in here very strongly.” lam very fortunate to call Aunty Beryl a close friend and mentor of more than 10 years, She has taught me so much about her ancien culture and tradition, and through her Job Ready program has transformed the lives of many young First Nations students. Aunty Beryl puts it best, “I always say ‘education is key, when you've got education, you've got a voice, you've got a choice.” t's begin with the Johnny cakes. Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo is a mater of them. “Measure __ pts los ici up with tes bring itv a dough; rol it into a ball; flaren it with your kouckles; flip, flip, flip and its ready « says the Gamilaroi elder and caterer, as decades of eo in the pan,” muscle memory come into play Johnny cakes are a mission-era scone-pancake Iybrid, and a delicious introduction to the cuisine of Australia's First Nations people. As a giel in Walgett, NSW, Aunty Beryl cooked them over coals with her iblings and cousins (16 in total). (On this sunny winters day in Sydney’s Hyde Park the fighting-it 8-yearold is making them on a basic Darhecue for the crowds gathered at NAIDOC in theCity 2023, a celebration of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture, This day is like many watershed days in recent Australian First Nations’ history, in that Aunty Beryl is doing the catering. She has been behind the pans at Land Rights negotiations, NAIDOC meetings and the regional dialogues, terms for this year's upcoming referendum on an ‘hich lay the Indigenous voice to parliament. No doubt when the results come in, she will be in the kitchen aps crafting panied barramundi with co buco, “I hope again, per lemon myrtle oil, of kangaroo 0 the yes vote does happen,” she says, “I's time for iy age group to have a voice.” Lit does, we might all owe Aunty Beryl a debe of gratitude for the role she has played in casting 1 on First Nations’ culture through a spotls hee food. “When I started ou, people thou we didn’t know anything, We couldn't even get people to try ‘our ing like kangaroo or finger lime.” Of edients = this now these ingeedien “| hope the yes vote nd does happen... It’s Recien , she was cooking professionally at ‘Wunanbiei P studying nutrition science at East Sydney Tech, (now the National Art School) and farther study when she was scouted for the ‘First Ten Aboriginal Teachers in TAFE’ initiative. She earned her TAFE DipEd in 1984, specialising in hospitality ‘Working as a teacher in the TAFE system, Aunty Beryl always told students, “Respect doesn't come in a can or a bottle. You have to earn it." Tes choo in Sydney. That lead to her something she has done time and time again. Tn 2006, nine days into Aunty Beryl’s retirement, Prank Sartor, then-NSW for Planning, Redfern Waterloo and the Arts approached her to open a kitchen in the derelict Carriagework ‘employment for young Indigenous people tate Minister with a view to provide training and said I'd do it for one year. Seventeen years Tater, we are still ving,” she says of her catering business Yaama Bareway and the Job Ready program she now runs out of sional Centre traditional tehniquesareatthe time for my age group of luizenous Excellence heart of the nation’s finest dishes, and mob. ‘ource of pride for her T's been a journey. This, from the woman wha tauaht Rene Redzepi how ro use lemon myrtle "A little goes a long way.” Infact, the world-famous chef wouldn't start Noma’s Sydney residency without her. Aunty Beryl has also cooked on television with Mark Olive, trained a generation of chefs and repre aker at an international First Nations conference in ated Australia asa sp ‘Sweden = spreading the food philosophies she takes asa given with each of those experiences. Growing up in Walgett she and her family lived off che land, catching river cod, bream and crayfish, and gathering honey from trees, They cooked on an open fire, and they always ate together ina circle, she says, "That's something brought into my own family" In the 1950s, a 16ear old Beryl joined the tmigration of thousands of Indigenous people seeking factory work in Sydney (Eora). By the to have a voice. “Alot of these kids are in very dark places when they get to if Tan help one person improve their quality of life and go on theie own journey, then I'm doing ty job and the community is doing its job.” Atl, in the Year of the Elder, Aunty Beryl shows no signs of slowing. Instead, she is usin the moment to turn hee attention to the living standards of older Indigenous Australians, “Our life expectancy is 50, she points our from the NCIE kitchen, close to the balcony-free towers many of her mob are growing old in. "We want a better quality of life in old age.” Practically, chat means taking on chairperson duties at yoria Aboriginal Elders Belonging Extate, working hard to get off the ground a culturally appropriate, sustainable independent living centre for her people. She is drawing on co make that happen, because, as she always says, “Tomorrow is a better day.” And in her hands it surely is, « all hee political and corporate tieSY vir \ wr aay \ f Papayaor pawpaw ‘This tropical tree yields luscious fruitin spring, no JON RICKARD. ant matter what you éall it, writes al papaya te ips most abundantly hated papaya the fest time I tied it. The musky perfume and lack ‘oftang turned me off, Ie wasn’t until a friend suggested trying it with aa squeeze of lime juice that I finally understood what the fuss was about. Papaya with lime is a match made in heaven, 1 days, we were mote likely to call ita pawpave In recent years, have come round to the American custom of ea papaya to distinguish this frat from their indigen ly a kind of custard apple 236 couwuer reavecen‘simon ie fl ‘The papaya was domesticated in Central America. It’s a coloniser of sunny, disturbed round on forest edaes, Papaya trees live fast and dlie young, belore they are outcompeted by larger, longer lived forest trees. Papaya tres are stall nd typically unbranched, their rabbery tanks instead topped with a tuftof extravagant foliage ‘Theie fruit grows directly on the trunk ofthe tree, a characteristic commonly seen in rainforest trees {cacao being another example) ‘Wild papayas are ‘dioecious’, meaning each plant will only bear either male or female flowers. A female tree needs tobe pollinated bya male in ‘onder to bear fruit. Modem varieties of papaya have been bred to be bisexual, enabling a single tee to produce a crop on its own. apayas come in two coloues: yellow papayas have boxy, rounded feuits with yellowich orange flesh red ones have elongated fruits with reddish, ‘orange flesh. Yellow papayas have denser, less sweet flesh than that of red papayas, and are reputedly more cold tolerant. ‘The Spanish introduced papayas outside of. the Americas, Today, they are grown around the ‘tropics, and show up in unusual ways in many ‘cuisines, Here, papayas typically are eaten fresh and fully ripe. However, in many parts of the ‘world, you are just as likely to encounter them in their green, untipe form. Thai som rum salad, featuring shredaled sreen papaya, is well known, Grow your own but in many parts of Southeast Asia you will find seen papaya slices enjoyed dipped in some form (of spicy/sweet/salty/tangy relish, or cooked in cuties and soups. Young papaya leaves are cooked asa bitter vegetable, in Javanese bunti, for example. Papaya tees are relatively small and easily accommodated in a backyard or large pot on balcony. Their huge, jansy leaves are extremely ‘omamental. Unlike deciduous fruit tees, which ‘equite specialised pruning and spraying, or citrus trees, which can sulk for years if everything is not ‘exactly to their liking, papayas tend to be pretty ‘easy-going. Choose a named, bisexual variety and ‘eat it lke a tomato plant. Give it plenty of food and water and perfectly drained soil, and you'll be swamped with fruit. The most difficult tak will be ‘protecting your ripening erop from fruit fly, bieds, fruit bats and fruit rot. Picking fruits at the first sign of colour and ripening them indoors can help. Papaya is one of the most versatile and ratifying fruits to gow for backyards ina warm, frostftee climate. For those in colder elimes, get along to your farmers’ market this spring, and share in the papaya’s luscious tropical bounty, preferably with a twist of lime. © It wasn’t until a friend suggested trying it with a squeeze of lime juice that | finally understood what the fuss was about. Papaya with lime is a match made in heaven. -couswes teavetuie 37= Embark on a trip designed precisely for your individual needs, CoE MOPAR Un Nie oat CaCO eed NS Tolel NES)SEPTEMBER — >t TOP SHELF Dea een aC RRR u ae cee winning wines, and how to Cen: asa tia\ . wal [At The Blue Door, 98 per cent of the wine lists from New South Wales. We wanted to showease the dversty of wine In our state particularly because we felt no one else in ‘Sydney was doing it andit feels ‘more congruous with our food offering. we serve and celebrate New South Wales produce, we should be celebrating New South Wales wine. Just makes sense tous. ‘We change the menu weekly based on whatever our ethical and sustainable producers. send us. Everyone we work vith s doing regenerative farming and we buy whole animals. We do a seven-course tasting menu and everything Is about highlighting this amazing produce there are no tricks, SPOTLIGHT ON thebluedoorsurryhils comau MUDGEE FEST Mudgee Wine and Food Month explodes across the region this September with a program of events with flavour at thelr core. The signature event Go Grazing (on September 16) wil se a five-course dégustation held at historic Cralgmoor vineyard prepared by Ngemiva Wellwan woman ‘Sharon Winsor of Indigieartn. mudgeewinemonth com.au DRINKS NEWS TOP DROPS, NEW OPENINGS, AND INSIDE TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS al LANGTON’S LUXE WINE TOUR umnist and Master of Wine Ned ee enre eee eer! merience incl eee ene ae tt eee eet cet eect ee ren: ee ei eae ea ere hte Se ae Roars net coe WORTH THE BUZZ The release of a limited-edition twos wine casks Is ralsing money for some of nature's smallest but ‘most important citers. The colaboration between Winesmiths and Australian artist Bille Justice Thomson highlights the importance of bees and the part they play ina healthy ecosystem, particularly vineyards. The pretty Shiraz and Pino! Grigio packs are avalable unt December and part proceeds willbe donated tothe When Bee Foundation for research, smitnswinestore.comau3 MeLaten Vale-based winemaker and vicuiturist Jodie Armstrong prefers not to charge through Ife ina straight line. Instead, she meanders with her beloved donkeys by her side, Armstrong ison a mission to help othars da the same with her Walking Donkey Wine Tous. Participants feed donkeys Agatha and Winsome before leading them past vineyards and through evocative Blewit Springs landscape. There's wine, of course Including Armstrong's Journey Home drops, and along lunch to wrap things up. The pace Is stow and the experience mindful TIME WELL SPENT People talk about how much they enjoyed the food, but the thing that really ‘moves them s how good they fee! after being out in nature withthe donkeys: From $150 per person, journeyhomewiines com ou CHOC TOPS Enjoy two of ife's simple pleasures combined Pa In Murrumbateman Chocolate Co's latest wine and chocolate collaboration. The offering includes seasonal truffles Incorporating The Vintner's Daughter Rosé, 2 Talagandra Hill Winery Sparkling Viognier, CClonakila Muscat, and more. robynrowechocolates.comau ASTE OF TUSCANY ‘After a year-long hiatus and six-month refurbishment ed by Melbourne Interior design agency Bergman & Co (Mount Erica Hotel, Chancery Lane}, Mornington Peninsula's "Gallant Vineyard is back. The newlook Tuscan ‘esthetic provides @ backdrop forthe hallanfecuses menu spanning woodt-fre pizze, small plates, mains, and desserts, tgalontcomauWine people VITALIE TAITTINGER As president of family-owned Champagne house Taittinger, Vitalie Taittinger became the first woman to lead the maison, which was founded in 1734. {Asa itle gi, what did you want to be when you grew up? | wanted to be {an artist My great-grandmother and my grandmother were painters and | always watched what they were craving and painting, When my mother ‘eventually gave me everything I needed to paint ancl craw myso t was the best git she could have given me. When did you know that working Inthe family business was the path for you? | grow up only ever thinking about what | wanted to do, not what was expected of me - I studied art, and I started werking for myself as an artist. only ended up realising that Tatinger could be a part of my ie when my father fought to rebuy the company after ithad been sold in 2005, Ras @ huge battle and when he finaly managed to buy the company back, | was so impressed by the power of his faith and his. courage. I wanted to be a part of the fight to continue our family’s legacy. How have you modernised the family business? For me, it was important to reinforce the human sie ofthe brand. Ths Is even more crucial when facing certain challenges of today. We value our people so much and we {are always looking ahead to tomorrow ~ ensuring our team feel supported ‘and in the right place no matter what challenges we face. They ate the heart and soul of Taitinger. ‘Are you seeing an increase in demand for Champagne from Austral consumers? The Australian market is very dynamic. We feel real energy {and love around Champagne in Austala, Tare are very few specialists of ‘Champagne, infact very few across the world. n Austalla, yu have one of the most charming and heartfet Champagne professionals in Tyson Stelzet For me this is asign that Champagne has real place in Australian culture. What are the biggest challenges for the Champagne region now and Inthe future? In Champagne, we are facing the same challenges as the rest ofthe world, We must al colectively work towards protecting the envionment if we want to continue living inthis world. The challenge: Is staying united as an Industy — In Champagne, we areal stiving for cexcellency tis who we are so deeply Any new releases we should keep an eye out for? We have just released ‘a beautiful Comtes Rosé 201, This wine I trong and fabulous with food, Wie wil iso launch the Comtes Blane de Blanes 2013 in September, which Is ral delicacy i i tartngercom/y \Vinc list, ready For restaurants, a decent wine selection is an opportunity for excitement, writes NED GOODWIN. this sue, revelling in acclaim for Tetsu the spotighton the sort of wines may flor staf ike tecommend and sll. While it may seem reali is thac close to 20 per ent of wine sales in the country are devoted to foreign wines, [would hedge that this quotient is far higher in our better restaurants. The perennial question is why? While Ihave opinions on the experiential nature of trying somethin new, the desire to live throush anodyne rosé, the quest for diversity and the pursuit of savoury steuctural atribures, particulaly the sort of chew and chomp found in many Italian wines for example, exploring the myriad of teacons for drinking foreign over local, or local over foreign, risks looking throu Alice's looking elass to meander throug! 1 philosophical minefield, Ler’s not forget, either, that for anyone cover 40, access to foreign Wines on our restaurant wine lis a relatively recent phenomenon, That which i new is an intoxicating force, conferring a sense of FOMO to the bounty of good bottles that awaits on any decent wine list Bearing all of this in mind, the wines below reflect the now: the current, the exciting, the classic and the fact that we drink more white than red in this country: Pur simply, these area touchstone for wines that restaurants like to celebra ‘Ned Goodwin Master of Wine and wine communicator at Langton’. anedgoodwinmw Top drops WINES TOTRY 2019 Eden Rit Estate Prot Not, S110 hue Been an oxymeron ‘few years ogo, but bette producers ofer wines of 2a nore Burguncian mien. Source om bmestone San Anco Fa s 2018 castagna Chenin Blane, $58 (Chenin blane sen 2019 Francois Chidaine Montiuls Les Tuffoaux, $80 Valley. Sedmentary sols, (range blossom, cheese coin and gazed qunce, og by the shoe 2020 Catlecaprtta Tera el Pret Trebbiano Spolatina, $49 personaly, partly ath Sy SCAN TO BI El‘Samantha ie write and wine IS TYRRELL'S Wat 1 Semillon "Swill, sniff, sip, spit, repeat. SAMANTHA PAYNE takes us ain on wine judging day. behind the velvet cu “ma standing ina ligheilled space Inge enoush 10 house a jee plane, with 30 ocher wine judges and six wi pointy © slurping, eval sll ined up in a row, We're at the d of four days ofswilling, sniffing, ating, and spitting. These six wines are primed to baede it out for an overall winner ~ the troply, I's process that might influence the style of ‘wines that region will produce in future vintages and a consensus needs to be made, At this tage, the hardest parts have already been done, culling 250 wines to these six, Across the week, words have been exchanged, high fives handed out, crackets have been con: olives and ied in vast quantities Bream Creek nin and acid in the palate), This is atypical week of wine judging - the kind ‘of week that fills me with both excitement and dread The dread comes ftom spending nine hours a day battling palate fatigue around a jury of peers, searching for a benchmark wine. Ifyou're lucky there will be three or four excellent examples to battle it out in a bracket, ifnot you might spend lunch wondering why you subject yourself {Gnd teeth/mouth/ palate) to this every yea. ‘We take wine judging seriously in this country and have taken great strides to advance it. From the introduction of *style” judges (that's judges like me2 oat ‘who don't have a winemaking degree but know a “good” wine when, wwe taste it) to the push for diverse points of view: This balances out the “technical” judges who, if they had it their way, would have us all deinking technically proficient but less interesting wines Someone who knows winejudging is Sam C ofthe Hunter Valley and Yarra Valley Wine Shows and board member of nes, chi the Len Evans Tutorial (the world’s top wine judge training a good wine judge i “someone who can leave program). She say preconceptions atthe door to focus on what's i Tn some cases the wine in the glass will bea “Tine in the sand” ‘wine, a transition wine that sets the benchmark for those that follow. For example, when the 2009 Penfolds Reserve Bin 09, chardonnay won Champion White Wine at the 2011 International hallenge, its “struck match” character influenced chardonnay syle for years to follow. Or when Tom Carson's Yabby Lake pinot won the Jimmy Watson Trophy for best in show at the Melbourne Royal, it was the first pinot to win in the competition’ S524ear, cabernet and shiracfilled history. This responsibilty is nor lost on the judges as we discuss the top, contender or later atthe judges’ dinner wen conversation mellows ‘over drinks, Most of us order beet. « 2017 Tyrrell’ Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley, $15 Easily Australa's most-awarded and highly beloved semilon with trophies from the 2017 ‘and 2021 Royal Hobart Wine Show, and 2021 Royal Perth Wine Awards, The palate is seamless showing lime zest and Granny Smith apples, while subtle age stars to show through mild hay and beeswax notes. Acid tension and. finesse show a depth of character that's only Just stating to evalve, Keep itfor 20 years ‘and break it out on Christmas Day, ‘yells comau 2019 Bream Creek Old Vine Reserve Riesling, ‘Tasmania, $50 Honoured at the 2023 National Wine Show and crafted from vines planted in 1974, this resting Is. 2 show-stopping example ofthe qualty of fut coming out of Tasmania, Freshly cut limes meet cgrapefrut pith with a hint of eceane saint. breamereekvineyard.comau 2021 Penfolds Bin 21A Reserve Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, $125 Winning three trophies at 2022 Royal Adelaide Wine Show and two trophies at 2022 Syaney Royal Wine Show, this reserve chardonnay ftom Penfolds shes a balance between stone frut charactors such as white nectarine and savoury flavours of wet stone minerality and hints of crushed cashews, A benchmark Australian AQL OL FAIS chardonnay. penfolds.com 2020 Best's Great Western Bin No 1 Shiraz, Victoria, $27 This cool-limate shiaz sings with spicy green poppercorn and violet notes. The aromas load Into perfumed blue fruits and an elegant mict-palate weight. No wonder Ittook home the Jimmy Watson Trophy at 2012 Royal Melbourne Wine Show (2011 vintage), Bestswnes.com 2021 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, $40 This wine won trophies for cabernet sauvignon atthe National Wine Shove of Australia for nine consecutive years. exhibits supple mulberry and Chistmas.cake spices within a very sophisticated framework of vanilla oak and fine-grained tannins, anaduwines.com cour tayute 45Cocktail hour BLACKBERRY BUCK Each month, we explore the origins behind some of Australia’s signature drinks and learn how to recreate them at home. Ina cocktail andscape growing ever ‘more crowded with Spritzes ang Highballs, its easy to lose sight of the Buck — that timeless, foolproof cousin of the Collins, which brings a sprit together with citrus and ginger beer over ice. t's a category thats glven ise to undying classics including the Moscow Mule and Dark'n’ Stormy, but the absuraly simple formula leaves itopen to all manner of reinvention This family of drinks is thought to have sprung to life somewhere in the mid-toiato 4800s, as ginger beer became increasingly Popular as a digestive aid. Among the more famous variations to emerge 's the Mamie Taylor, a Scotch and ginger ‘number often considered to be the Moscow Mule’s precursor. To welcome guests to GT's Annual Restaurant Awards at Sydney's Brasserie as 4930, sommelior Nick Hildebrandt religged WAKE. YOURE the turn-of-the-century favourite by adding na Colins glass, combine 45mi Glentvat creme de mOre for colour and contrast. Tack oc SEAS ETE *We ike the combo of Gieniivet and blackberry Kqueurand2 tsp of feehy squecred blackbarry” ne says. "The roundness of the te uee File lass thc, top UP wih ginger ‘fultsts nicely below the heat of the whisky, beer and st gently to combine Gamish wil aie ‘making ful favoured and very appealing.” ihe and eystalsed ginger ona cocktal skewer ‘ _ snc —— sr ge een ) re Sorter sets coetenonn epee auaciaemny Soren sont, Saetssc tne tases wrt ene smeereene, oun ames Saisie ones pemenines cored cee es Sse Smcans S Be ceca Fodtcosanm 46. cous reaoo WITH GREAT COMPLEXITY COMES GREAT REWARD. WITHGREAT COMPLEXITY COMES GREAT REWARD, eta nse org.9uHenan BETO « AY by toy all the winners and finalists in the 2023 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant of the Year Awards. You are the leaders, the visionaries and the very talented bunch who make our food and beverage scene so exciting. Thankyou for your hard workand dedication. Congratulations and cheers! PT Oo Te Really Good— SEPTEMBER — EVERY DAY From easy-to-prepare dishes for entertaining to simple. suppers, these everyday recipes keep things fast and fresh, QO rm © serve Gown meri rm nesEveryday / SERVING SUGGESTION For a more substantial meal, this dish will work equally ‘well wth chargriled steak cr fish served on top. ©@ Warm mixed bean, chickpe ‘aand mozzarella salad 150 100 100 100 1 400 250 200 ‘9m marinated mined pited olives, sliced Jong red chill, seeds removed, finely chopped 1m (4 cup) lemon juice tsp each chopped oregano and flatleat parsley {sp fennel seeds, crushed ‘gm green beans, wimmed ‘9m Roman beans, trimmed ‘gm sugarsnap peas tsp extravirgin olive ol! ‘gm can chickpeas, drained, rinsed ‘gm medley tomatoes, halved ‘gm buffalo mozzarella, torn 4 For dressing, combine olives, chil, lemon Juice, herbs and fennel seeds In allarge bow, Season to tasto; st ase, 2 Preheat lightly greased chargrill pan ‘over high heat. Toss beans, sugar snap peas and oll together na bow! season to taste. Chararil beans and sugarsnap peas, In batches, turing occasionally, ntl tender anc charred (4-6 minutes) 2 Add hot beans to dressing and gently toss to combine. Set aside for 5 minutes {or flavours to bo absorbed Add cclekpeas and tomatoes: gently toss to combine. To serve, place on a platter and top with mozzarella,@® 2 thepfish sauce 1 thsp vegetable oll 800 gm flanksteak 300 gm (‘4 small rum head cabbage, shredded 300 gm (‘small red cabbage, shredded 200 gmbaby green beans, immed, sliced diagonally 1 telograph cucumber, pected, sods removed, sliced diagonally ‘% cup firmly packed small Thal basi leaves £80 om flaked coconut DRESSING {60 gm dark palm sugar, finely grated Fey grated zest and uceof2 ies 1 thep fish sauco 1 gatlicclove, crushed 1 ong red cil thinly sliced CP Seared beef with palm sugar and coconut slaw ‘SERVES 46 /PEP TIME 10 MNS COOK 15 MNS PLUS MARINATIG, RESTING) 4. Combine fish sauce and ol in 1a shallow tray. Season with pepper. [Add steak, toss to coat and marinate at room temperature for 5 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, for dressing, combine Ingredients and 2 tbsp hot water in a bow, string to dissolve sugar 3 Combine cabbages, green beans ‘and cucumber in a large bowl. Add half ‘the dressing and toss wellto combine. Refrigerate until required 4 Heat alighty greased chargiil or barbecue over high heat. Add steak and cook, turing once, until browned all - ‘over andl medium rare (6:8 minutes each Side. Rest for § minutes, then thinly sice. '5 Add beot to slaw and gent toss Divide among plates, top with basil and coconut serve with extra dressing, »Everyday ne © Salt and pepper prawn and pork noodles 2 tsp each vegetable oll and sesame oll 1400. gm green tiger prawns, peeled, coarsely chopped ‘9m pork mince ‘hsp coarsoly cracked black pe tsp Sichuan peppercoms, crushed imi (% cup) kecap manis ml (cup) Shaoxing wine {hsp soy sauce garlic cloves, crushed 200 gm thick dried egg noodles '% cup coarsely chopped garll chives baby cos lettuce, leaves separated cup bean sprouts, trimmed CChinkiang (blak) vinegar, to serve Pesan eye 4 Heat a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat unlit starts to smoke. Add els, prawn and pork tify Lntil prawns change colour and pork Is Just cooked (4-6 minutes), Add black Pepper, penpercoms, kecap manis, wine soy sauce and garle; cook unt slighty reduced and sticky (2 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, cook noodles na large saucepan of bolling water unl al dente (46 minutes). Drain; add to prawn, Imixture, Season to taste; toss fo combine. 3 Add three-quarters of the chives and toss. Divide between bowls; scatter with remaining chives, Serve with lettuce leaves, bean sprouts and black vinegar tocrizzle. SHOPPING TIP CChinkiang vinegar, ‘Shaoxing wine and kecap ‘manis can be bought at select supermarkets or Asian grocers. Sichuan Pepper can be substituted with white pepper unavailable.Lamb , zucchini and haloumi flatbreads with chilli honey ‘SERVES 2/ PRE IME 10 MS COOK 10S (Pus Res) 4150. gmhaloum, coarsely grated 150. gm fresh ricotta 2. small za‘atarfatbreads (see note) 2 small zucchini, thinly sliced lengthways on a mandolin, 2 thepextravirgin olive ol, lus extra to serve 2. (150gm each) lamb backstraps, atroom temperature 2 tsp honey ‘tp dried chil flakes ‘% cup loosely packed oregano leaves Lemon wedges, to serve 4 Preheat oven grilto high. Combine: haloum and ricotta; season with pepper. Scatter over flatbreads, Top with 2ucchin and place on an oven tray. Bake on the mide rack until crisp (4-5 minutes). 22 Meanwhile, heat oll ina large fying pan over medium-high heat. Season backstraps, then cook unt browned and medium-rare (5 minutes each side). Rest lamb on a plate for 5 minutes, thon sco. 3 Combine honey and chil. Top ‘latbreads with lamb and oregane, then arzzle with honey and extra olve ol. Serve with lemon wedges. Note Za‘ata fatbreads are avalable ‘rom select supermarkets and specialty food shops. Substitute wth any plain or flavoured flatbread. > INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT Look for chill honey, also known as hot honey, Which has already been Infused with chil.Everyday rod plant condiment. liclous with riled ‘or served as a dip. F é imply double the recipe Ajvar orecchiette _ keep refrigerated. with ricotta and dill “SERVES 2 PREP TIME 15 MINS / COOK 25 MINS (PLUS COOLING) cad 200 gnome nics oo Bo ‘2 rota ombled Seer OME obit tee cris ocnceen Oe + pny hepa {Sincroroetitiesmen Nemsmash rach opus Caer Giisinsats tone (esrmin 4 Meri csotpreotes san Tvandccokuntocer@minies} soll Sone egies. © a ee Drone nis cigs 1 aaa ee a a ips cota ia sae ae E oick se {60 mi(¥ cup extra-virgin olive ol ‘eggplant with dale, vinegar and 2tbsp pasta between bowis and serve topped ol; blend unti smooth; season to taste. with cotta, dll oll and chil 4 counmer reaver oF@ Mustard-baked salmon with kipflers and fennel tzatziki ‘SERVES 46 PREP TIME 1S MNS 00K 45 MINS 500 gm smal kpfor potatoes, scrubbed, halved lenathways 60 mi (ie cup) extra-virgin olive ol, lus extra to drizzle 2 aie coves, crushed 2 ‘tbsp honey Dijon mustard '800_ gm piece salmon, skin on, pi boned ‘3 smalllemons, thinly sliced, patted dry 1 baby fennel (180gm), coarsely grated 50. gmfeta, coarsely grated 140 gm Grock-style yoghurt 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp chopped cll Watercress sprigs, to serve 41 Preheat oven ta 220°C fan-forced. Place potatoes on a large oven tray lined ‘ith baking paper. Toss with 1 tbsp ol roast unt partial cooked {15 minutes). 2. Meanwhile, combine gate and ‘mustard in small bo season to taste. Brush over salmon, then arrange lemon slices on top, overlapping slighty; season to taste. 3 Push potatoes to one sie of ray, add salmon and diizzlewitn remaining ol Bake until salmon ts golden and just cooked through (25-20 minutes) ‘4. Meanwhile, to make tzatziki, combine fonnel, feta, yoghurt, lemon julce and lof cakes House Mads Howpitaliy's Bar Mammont Bentley Group's Beach Opposite: ‘the aining room and dessert at Gril Americano.the bar and dining room at Nomad Group's Reine and LaRue: ‘chin Melboume Many others jump Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Cirrus, Monopole, Yellow) added Brasserie 1930 and King Clarence to its portfolio this year. The Love Tilly Group (Love, Tilly Devine, Ragazti) expanded to the ambitious Palazzo Salato, with another unnamed venue on the way. Exymon din on the action: In Sydney, Bentley Group Projects (The Charles Grand Brasserie & Bar, Loulou Bistro) has rand plans to open at least half a dozen venues in the next year, while newcomer Kolture opened ths three months with plans for more. Further north, the Light Years nn Korean venues in Group burst into the 2020s with a new eponymous restaurant in Byron Bay, plus Pixie, Moonlight, Frankies Gelato and The Smoking Camel. In Brisbane iagicked up Agnes, Agnes Bakery and Bianca. The benefits of being part ofa restaurant group ace huge ifyou're an owner of operator: ordering efficiencies, growth opportunities for staff, and eveeything else that comes with scaling any sort of operation, That all depends on what you group behind Same Same andl Hone But what does it mean for custome want from your restaurants, Cris Graham is what you might call a “group superfan". An account director with financefocused digital conference company The Inside Network, Graham's relationship with Melbourne's Lucas Restaurants largely began at the height of the pandemic, “We do events that bei her fund managers and clients, and during Covid we needed to find new ways for them to connect” she says. She reached out to Lucas Restaurants who were delighted to collaborate on creating sixconrse lunch boxes from one of their most popular restaurants, Chin Chin, to send out to the company’s clients “They shipped them a (Once lockdowns lifted, Graham and her colleagues cemented far aw as Brisbane for ws,” says Graham. their connection to Lucas Restaurants even farther; they were personally invited to the soft launch of Grill Am restaurants the eroup launched post pandemic. The Inside Nenwork now does the majority ofits client ente ican, one of aining with the group, and records show that someone connected to its business has Visited a Lucas Restaurants venue a whopping 76 times in the lst 18, ‘months. “I love that when you walk through the door they know your name, There’s always a consistency,” says Graham, "No matter which, ants yout go to yout get a very different experience but you can always tell i's Lucas, :It’s this sort of personalised attention, the ability to form valuable and mutually beneficial business partnerships and a commitment to “unwavering quality across multiple venues that loyalists love about their favourite uurant groups, Bur if you're someone who likes the less polished, more low feel of an independent neighbourhood restaurant, the .0 welcome. eat rise of the group may not be quit Ailla Yilmaz has more of less singlehandedly ran bis cule favourite Middle Eastern and Mediterranear-leaning restaurant Pazar in Sydney's west since 2014, and says that the dominance of restaurant groups means that smaller operators like him are finding it says, i competing to aff, paeticulaely in a tight labour marker. “Groups can offer their staff carcer progression across different venu harder to stay afloat, The biggest calle uniform bonuses, big tips, even trips overseas, all thar stuff,” says Vile the same with my staff.” Instead, he routinely loses team members II power to them; if had their budget I would love to do to the big hitters, and wins up doing dozens of jobs himself. “Ido everything from hookings to rosters to payrall to fixing something that breaks inthe kitchen,” he says, and worries that his model simply isn't sustainable. “Tdo sometimes wonder how much longer I can do itall for, or if what Pm doing is even healthy,” he sa The staff factor is the doubleedged sword in an uneasy standoff between groups and independent ‘Without the sorts of opportunities that groups can offer, ones that position hospitality as a lucrative attractive and long-term career, there'll be no hospitality at all. But if t's only one segment of the industry that can offer those perks, then restaurant groups may edge out the litle guys entirely That's not to say that the furure of restaurants looks like a cookiecutter dystopia. The expansion of groups thae can benefit their workers while still offering customers the sense that they're in a bespoke venue designed with cate and serving food they want to eat should be a winavin for everyone. House Made’s Newton says the best bulwark against a group appearing corporate or contrived is to keep true hospitality - the art of looking after people ~ atthe heart of “Our core value is just to be good, really,” he says. “To. ood humans and be good to our the busine bea Andl ultimately, says Anton Forte, whose Swillhouse group recently added the multilayered Le Foote in Sydney's revitalised rests and good to our stafl.” The Rocks precinct to a portfalio that includes Restaurant Hubert anythi benefits all of us. “The recent investinent in routs and «other developments makes the city feel dynamic and exciting for everyone,” he says. “Lwant to be a part of anything thar helps thar.” « and Alberto’s Louns that brings more vigour and vibrance back to Australian cits fen space and restaurant Clockwise from top left: Lucas “Metboure: tymen Projets! ‘The Caries; Morivale’s Mis.Available at Woolworths, Coles, aeeder Ral ecde neo aataeHec RE Lert eae Coc aes IS aTM TSM LOLI eAyAGOURMET And the winners are... Without further ado, we reveal the res nts of the Oa aw bert SEUSS ROR MA REACT nis ia os re Seay TSO Pe A * ROTM etcCOTA ent RESTAURANT EWS zi 2 ry & Ce a Nlithe conversations around Brisbane's current food ‘Game being lite to never-before-seen heights coalesce beautifully at Agnes. Most satisfyingly L Aitis darkcnued, wood-ited bistro ina Fortitude Valley backstreet triumphs as a sum of ts parts, Chef Ben Williamson's mastory of Agnos's multiple fio pits Is obviously the main draw and with good reason. In many restaurants that centre fre and smoke, you can leave feeling like you've been chewing on a lump of coal. Witlamson Understands the value of ight and shade with wood-fired cooking, turing the smoke factor up when necessary (as with brillant dishes such as slivers of griled oxheart teamed with 1 miso hollandalse) but then muting tto litle more than a whisper in a dessert that partners charred lemons and white chocolate of a leek and almond side dish centred on clean acidic tang. His balancing act is even more impressive (and Important) because all the cooking at Agnes happens without electiity or gas, @ decision that brings a level of volatility and chance to every service. But i's not only this artisan cooking style making Agnes noteworthy. The service team here Is one of the best inthe country, displaying expertise, enthusiasm and hospitality in equal measure. I's a team which delivers the pe ooeeereany Phe Cloclwise from lt chet Ben Willams; the ‘charred lemon, candied pomelo, coconut and tiger prawn, sated pork ‘and spring anion cream. kind of wall-honed and carefully nurtured service that pays attention to each table's order, capable of intervening to suggest adjustments should they tee! ‘the meal is becoming unbalanced. Then there's the offer (of smaller sorvos, should you be alning alone or in a small ‘group and wish to sample more of the menu. And it's all ‘accomplished in a way that suggests this crack team is felther truly committed to you having a good time or deserving of an Oscar Thore's similar attention paid to the wine ist, again focused on the artisan in an inteligently assembled collection ‘of mostly smaller producers (many dwelling inthe “natural ‘space from across the planet. i's the kind of drinking well sulted to all of Agnes's spaces, from the dark hued, fret mala ining hall to the upstairs outdoor terrace, and the superb ‘wine bar that's increasingly - and deservedly — establishing self as a destination ints own right. In some ways, this dark, shadowy, mostly inware-facing restaurant It by ites and sporting an almost medieval vise Is not what many would expect from a restaurant in Brisbane. But Agnes is proof that old dining tropes can change, replaced by exciting new ones tapping into a new ‘energy that has Brisbane in ts gp.