Our written instructions are composed so that whether you are new to the profession, or has experience in cutting,

you could use

them. All our instructions on basic blocks are divided into two parts: An illustration of the completed instruction and a more in-depth
review of the instruction itself step by step. All the illustrations have a supplementary text instruction, which you can read as required.
Our vision is that you can lean on to the text instruction, the first few times you make the basic block, but you will quite quickly find
that you can completely do without the explanation and only need to take advantage of the illustration.

This compendium includes:

• Instruction on the basic coat block

• Step-by-step guide to instruction
• Guide to alignment (bust dart)
• Pattern overview

If you are a new beginner, you can benefit from practicing how to turn the basic block into 1/4 size. A printed version of a 1/4-scale
ruler can be found on on our website at cutupstudio.com/how-to-print.

To turn the basic block into a standard size, you will find all the values for the points that are being used in the instruction in our
measurment table on our website in the menu Measurements Guide > Measurement Table.
However, if you will start to turn the basic block into individual measures, you start by taking the measurements you need for the
instruction. The measurements to be used in this instruction are listed at the bottom on this page with an illustration of the most
important measurements. Instructions for taking measurements can be found on our website in the menu Measurements Guide.

We review this basic block in the following pages.

Custom size: size 38

Upper chest cir. UCC 84

Bust cir. BC 88

Bust distance BD 19
BH

UCC
Hip cir. 2 HC2 98
BC
Hip height 2 HH2 20.2 SIH
SHL
SHH
SHL

H
SH

Upper back width UBW 37

WC
BL

Back length BL 40.5

HH1

UCC
HC1 BC
Bust height BH 33
HH2

Shoulder length SHL 51 HC2

SKH

WC
Shoulder height SHH 78
HC1
Side height SIH 19.5
HC2
Shoulder width SHW 12.9

1/6 of 1/2 UCC 1/6 7

1/3 of (1/6-1) 1/3 2

Difference
(BC-UCC+4)/2 DIFF 4
*Cir = circumference

© CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 1 of 7

*All values are given in cm.

S HL
1/6-1
6
1/3

NAPE LINE 1.5 6

1/6-0.5 SHW
+1.5

1/6+1

1/6
8 W
8
SH

FO
R

BH
AL
IGN

BH
ME
NT
1/2 SHH
1/2 SHH

2
5
Control measure:
BL

DIFF
1/6
Hip line = 1/2 HC2+3
1/6
SIDE HEIGHT LINE 1/4 UCC+1 1/4 UCC+1 DIFF
1/2 BD-1 1/2 UBW .5 2
2.
5 1/2 BD If width is missing at the hip, it
2
2 2 BUST POINT must be added to at the side seam.
45 45

BACK FRONT size 38

SIH

CB

CF
UCC 84

BC 88

WAIST LINE
BD 19
WC

HC2 98

HH2 20.2
SIDE SEAM FRONT

SIDE SEAM BACK

UBW 37
HH2

BL 40.5

BH 33
HC2 HIP LINE
SHL 51

SHH 78
Coat length

SIH 19.5

SHW 12.9

1/6 7

1/3 2

DIFF 4

© CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 2 of 7

*All values are given in cm.

Instruction part 1

In this instruction, first draw a vertical

CB-line in the wanted length (coat
length) on the left side of the paper.
- Note that there must be some air at
the top of the paper to make room
for the green lines.
The nape line, side height line, waist
line and hip line are placed on the
CB-line and are determined by
inserting the values of BL, SIH, HH2
1/3

NAPE LINE
1/6-0.5 and then horizontal lines from each
point are drawn.
- Note that SIH and HH2 are always
measured from the waist line.

The point 1/6-0.5 and vertically up

point 1/3 are marked horizontally on
the nape line.
The points 1/2 UBW, 1/4 UCC+1
(x2), DIFF and 1/2 BD are marked
on the side height line. From every
BL

point draw vertical lines as shown in

DIFF
1/6 the figure.
1/6
SIDE HEIGHT LINE 1/4 UCC+1 1/4 UCC+1 DIFF All the black lines should now be
1/2 UBW 1/2 BD drawn on the paper.

The vertical line at the point DIFF is

the CF-line of the front. At the point
FRONT
DIFF and vertically up, DIFF is
BACK
marked once again and the point is
connected with 1/4 UCC+1 as
SIH

CB

CF

shown in the figure (green).

On this new line, from the point 1/4
UCC+1 towards DIFF, the points 1/6
(x2) are marked and perpendicular
lines (green) are drawn from each
WC WAIST LINE point.
- Note that these lines will be used
later to define new points and
therefore allowed to be drawn plenty
long.

size 38
HH2

UCC 84

BC 19

HC2 HIP LINE

HH2 20.2

UBW 37
Coat length

BL 40.5

SIH 19.5

1/6 7

1/3 2

DIFF 4

© CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 3 of 7

*All values are given in cm.

SHL
1/6-1
Instruction part 2
1/3

NAPE LINE
1/6-0.5
From the waist line, the values of

1/6
1/6+1 1/2 SHH (red, x2) and SHL (red)
are placed up to the point where
they cuts the existing lines (green).
- Note that new points are formed

BH
at the point where the lines meet.

BH
From the new point at SHL the
1/2 SHH

points 1/6-1 and 1/6 are marked

1/2 SHH

downwards on the green line. The

point 1/6+1 is marked from the
BL

DIFF
1/6 point 1/6 and perpendicular to the
SIDE HEIGHT LINE 1/4 UCC+1
1/6
1/4 UCC+1 DIFF
green line.
1/2 UBW 2 1/2 BD From the same point (at SHL) the
2 2 BUST POINT value of BH (blue) is placed to the
point where it cuts the line at both
1/2 BD and CF.
- Note that new points are formed
BACK FRONT
where the lines meet.
SIH

CB

CF
The bust point and the points that
determine the neckline and the
slope of your shoulder lines are
now defined. Draw guide lines to
both shoulder lines, as shown in
WC WAIST LINE the figure.

Find the points for both back - and

front side seam by marking the
point 2 vertically down from the
point 1/4 UCC+1. From this point is
measured 2cm horizontally, both
SIDE SEAM FRONT

SIDE SEAM BACK

on the right and the left side, and

HH2

here two new points are placed.

From here the side seams are
drawn parallel on both sides of the
guide line.

Finish by drawing a horizontal line

HC2 HIP LINE
through the two new points. This
line is used on the next page to
define the armhole.
Coat length

size 38

BH 33

SHL 51

SHH 78

1/6 7

© CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 4 of 7

*All values are given in cm.

Instruction part 3
The guide lines for the armhole are
drawn by marking point 5 on the
green line. From here, draw a line on
2 cm perpendicular to the green line.

SHL
From this new point draw a guide

1/6-1
line perpendicular to the side height
line so it cuts the horizontal guide
6
line at the side seams. Extend the
1/3

NAPE LINE 1.5 6

1/6-0.5 SHW
+1.5
line at 1/2 UBV and the 'box' where
the armhole is to be drawn is now

1/6
8 1/6+1
8
SH
W defined. In each corner a line of 2.5
cm at an angle of 45 degrees is
drawn, as shown in the figure.

FO
R

BH
AL
On the side height line the point 1/2

IGN

BH
ME
BD-1 and point 6 are marked on

NT
both shoulder lines to be used for
1/2 SHH

1/2 SHH

2
the shoulder dart and alignment.
5
Draw the guide lines between points
BL

6 and 1/2 BD-1 on the back, and

DIFF
1/6 between point 6 and the bust point
1/6
SIDE HEIGHT LINE 1/4 UCC+1 1/4 UCC+1 DIFF on the front. Draw the shoulder dart
1/2 BD-1 1/2 UBW .5 2.
2 2 5 1/2 BD and the alignment line as shown in
2 2 BUST POINT the figure.
45 45

Draw the neckline, shoulder and

BACK FRONT armhole.
- On the back shoulder dart is added
a little extra, so that the shoulder line
SIH

CB

CF

appears straight when the dart is

closed.
Check the pathway of the lines by
placing the patterns side seam to
side seam and shoulder to shoulder.
WC WAIST LINE Smooth out the lines at the neckline
and armholes, if necessary (there
should be places where the lines
form peaks or notches).
Check the hip width on the basic
block by measuring the hip line from
CB to the side seam back and form
SIDE SEAM FRONT

SIDE SEAM BACK

the side seam front to MF and

HH2

compare the measured with the

control measure.

Control measure:
Hip line = 1/2 HC2+3
HC2 HIP LINE
If width is missing at the hip, it must
be added to at the side seam.

Finally, the alignment is made, as

reviewed in the next chapter.
Coat length

size 38

BD 19

HC2 98

SHW 12.9

© CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 5 of 7

*The illustrations are without scale.

Instruction
To create the alignment and thus
define the bust dart, cut up the line for
alignment from shoulder seam to bust
point and from bust point out to the
CF-line, as shown in the figure. Then
rotate the pattern part out around the

FO
bust point, so that the point at the

RA
neck meets the CF-line.

LIG
Finally, remove the part of the pattern

NM
that sticks out beyond the CF-line.

EN
The basic block is now ready to be

T
sewn up.
- Note that the pattern part that is "cut
out" can be copied out onto a new
piece of pattern paper and transferred
back on to the basic block, after it is
rotated so that the pattern paper is
intact. BP
If one already knows how the bust
dart should be (from armholes, side
seams or waist line), alternative
alignments are shown at the bottom FRONT
of the page.

Example of alignment CF

Alignment from armhole Alignment from side seam Alignment from waist line

FO
RA
LIG
NM
EN
T BP
BP BP
NT
ME
FOR ALIGNMENT

GN
ALI
FOR
CF

CF
CF

FRONT FRONT FRONT

© CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 6 of 7

 SIH SIH

BP

FRONT
CB

BACK

CF
WC WC

HC2 HC2

© CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 7 of 7