Dairy Products 8

143
After studying this chapter,
you will be able to:
▶▶

▶▶
identify, store and cook with a variety of
milk and milk-based products
describe basic cheese-making processes
D airy products include cow’s milk and foods produced from cow’s milk such as
butter, yogurt, sour cream and cheese. The milk of other mammals, namely,
goats, sheep (ewe) and buffalo, is also made into cheeses that are used in com-
mercial food service operations. Dairy products are extremely versatile and are commonly
served both alone and as ingredients in foods as varied as soups, salads, breads and desserts.
▶▶ classify the characteristics of the five
categories of fine cheeses: fresh or
unripened, soft, semisoft, firm and hard MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS
▶▶ describe the characteristics of goat’s-milk Milk is not only a popular beverage, it is also an ingredient in many dishes. Milk and
cheeses products derived from milk provide texture, flavor, color and nutritional value to cooked
▶▶ identify, store and serve fine cheeses and baked items. Milk is one of the most nutritious foods available, providing proteins,
vitamins and minerals (particularly calcium). Because milk, cream, cultured dairy prod-
ucts and butter are animal products, they do contain cholesterol. Overall fat content varies
among dairy products and depends on the amount of milkfat left after processing. Milk is
ewe’s milk produced by a female sheep; it has also highly perishable and an excellent bacterial breeding ground. Care must be exercised
approximately 7.9% milkfat, 11.4% milk solids when handling and storing milk and other dairy products. Whole milk—that is, milk as it
and 80.7% water comes from the cow—consists of water primarily (about 88%). It contains approximately
3.5% milkfat and 8.5% other milk solids (proteins, milk sugar [lactose] and minerals).
goat’s milk produced by a female goat; it has Because of its relatively low fat content, in the presence of an acid or when heated,
approximately 4.1% milkfat, 8.9% milk solids
milk curdles. This means that the proteins solidify or coagulate and separate from the
and 87% water
liquid. Coagulation of the milk proteins is beneficial in cheese making, discussed later,
water buffalo’s milk produced by a female but it ruins custards, sauces and other dishes.
water buffalo; it has approximately 7.5%
milkfat, 10.3% milk solids and 82.2% water Milk-Processing Techniques
Whole milk is graded A, B or C according to standards recommended by the U.S. Public
Health Service. Grades are assigned based on bacterial count, with Grade A products
having the lowest count. Grades B and C, though still safe and wholesome, are rarely
available for retail or commercial use. Milk must be processed before consumers can
purchase it. By law, all Grade A milk must be pasteurized prior to retail sale.
Pasteurization is the process of heating milk to a sufficiently high temperature for a
sufficient length of time to destroy pathogenic bacteria. Pasteurization typically involves
holding milk at a temperature of 161°F (72°C) for 15 seconds. In addition to eliminating
bacteria, the pasteurization process also destroys enzymes that cause spoilage, thus
increasing shelf life. Although milk’s nutritional value is not significantly affected by pas-
teurization, milk is often fortified with additional vitamins and minerals, especially vita-
mins A and D during processing.
Raw milk, which is not pasteurized, may host disease-causing organisms that can cause
foodborne illness. Certified milk is milk, pasteurized or unpasteurized, produced in dairies
that operate under the rules and regulations of an authorized medical milk commission.
Though certified raw milk may be sold to consumers in some states, its use in food service
establishments violates the FDA’s 2013 Food Code, which requires that food service oper-
ations use Grade A milk. The FDA does, however, permit food service operations to use
raw milk in cheeses that are then aged at least 60 days at not less than 35°F (2°C).
Ultra-pasteurization is a process in which milk is heated to a very high temperature
(280°F/135°C) for a very short time (2–4 seconds) in order to destroy virtually all bacte-
ria. The process may give the milk a noticeable cooked flavor. Ultra-pasteurization is
most often used with whipping cream and individual creamers. Although the process
may reduce cream’s whipping properties, it extends its shelf life dramatically.
Ultra-high-temperature (UHT) processing is a form of ultra-pasteurization in which
milk is held at a temperature of 280–300°F (138–150°C) for 2–6 seconds. It is then
packed in sterile containers under sterile conditions and sealed to prevent bacteria from
entering the container. Unopened UHT milk can be stored without refrigeration for

144
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 145

at least 3 months. Although UHT milk can be stored unrefrigerated, it should be chilled
before serving and stored like fresh milk once opened. UHT processing may give milk a Imitation and Artificial
slightly cooked taste, but it has no significant effect on milk’s nutritional value. Dairy Products
Homogenization is a process in which the fat globules in whole milk are reduced in
size and permanently dispersed throughout the liquid. This prevents the fat from clump- Coffee whiteners, imitation sour cream,
ing together and rising to the surface as a layer of cream. Although homogenization is whipped-topping mixes and some
not required, milk sold commercially is generally homogenized because the process whipped toppings in pressurized cans are
ensures a uniform consistency, a whiter color and a richer taste. made from nondairy products. These
Whole milk can be processed in a centrifuge to remove all or a portion of the milkfat, products usually consist of corn syrup,
resulting in reduced-fat, low-fat and nonfat milks. According to the FDA, all reduced-fat binding agents, vegetable fats, coloring
milks must be nutritionally equivalent to full-fat milk and must provide at least the same agents and artificial flavors. These
amounts of the fat-soluble vitamins A and D as full-fat milk. Reduced-fat or less-fat milk products are generally less expensive and
is whole milk from which sufficient milkfat has been removed to produce a liquid with have a longer shelf life than the real dairy
2% milkfat. Low-fat or little-fat milk contains 1% milkfat. In nonfat milk, also referred to products they replace, but their flavors are
as fat-free, no-fat or skim milk, as much milkfat has been removed as possible. To be no match. Imitation and artificial products
sold as nonfat milk, its fat content must be below 0.5%. may be useful, however, for people who
have allergies or are on a restricted diet. If
Concentrated Milks you choose to use these products, you
Concentrated or condensed milk products are produced by removing all or part of the cannot legally claim to be using real dairy
water from whole milk with a vacuum. The resulting products have a high concentration products on menus or labels.
of milkfat and milk solids and an extended shelf life.
Evaporated milk is produced by removing approximately 60% of the water from
whole, homogenized milk. The concentrated liquid is canned and heat-sterilized. This
results in a cooked flavor and darker color. Evaporated skim milk, with a milkfat content
of 0.5%, is also available. A can of evaporated milk requires no refrigeration until opened,
although the can should be stored in a cool place. Evaporated milk can be reconstituted
with an equal amount of water and used like whole milk for cooking or drinking.
Sweetened condensed milk is similar to evaporated milk in that 60% of the water has
been removed. But unlike evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk contains large
amounts of sugar (40–45%). Sweetened condensed milk is also canned; the canning pro-
cess darkens the color and adds a caramel flavor. Sweetened condensed milk cannot be
substituted for whole milk or evaporated milk because of its sugar content. Its distinctive
flavor is most often found in desserts and confections such as fudge.
Dry milk powder is made by removing virtually all the moisture from pasteurized
milk. Dry whole milk, nonfat milk and buttermilk are available. The lack of moisture
prevents the growth of microorganisms and allows dry milk powders to be stored for
extended periods without refrigeration. Powdered milks can be reconstituted with water
and used like fresh milk. Milk powder may also be added to foods directly, with addi-
tional liquid included in the recipe. This procedure is typical in bread making and does
not alter the effect milk has on the dough or the flavor in the finished product.

Cream
Cream is a rich, liquid milk product containing at least 18% fat. Like milk, cream must be
pasteurized or ultra-pasteurized and may be homogenized. Cream has a slight yellow or
ivory color and is thicker and stickier than milk. Cream gives flavor and body to sauces,
soups and desserts. Whipping cream, containing not less than 30% milkfat, can be
whipped into a stiff foam and used in pastries and desserts. Cream is marketed in several
forms with different fat contents.
Half-and-half is a mixture of whole milk and cream containing between 10% and
18% milkfat. It is often served with cereal or coffee, but it does not contain enough fat to
whip into a foam.
Light cream, coffee cream and table cream are all products with more than 18% but
less than 30% milkfat. These products are used in baked goods or soups as well as
served with coffee, fruit and cereal.
Light whipping cream or, simply, whipping cream, contains between 30% and 36%
milkfat. It is generally used for thickening and enriching sauces and making ice cream.
146 CHAPTER EIGHT

It is whipped into a foam and used as a dessert topping or folded into custards or
mousses to add flavor and lightness.
Heavy whipping cream or, simply, heavy cream, contains not less than 36% milkfat. It
whips easily and holds its whipped texture longer than other creams. It must be pasteur-
ized but is rarely homogenized. Heavy cream is used in the same ways as light whipping
cream. Both light and heavy creams, when heated gently, can withstand boiling. Milk on
the other hand will separate into congealed curds and liquid.

Cultured Dairy Products

Cultured dairy products, such as yogurt, buttermilk and sour cream, are produced by
adding specific bacterial cultures to fluid dairy products. The bacteria convert the milk
lactose a disaccharide that occurs naturally in sugar lactose into lactic acid, giving these products their body and tangy, unique flavors.
mammalian milk; milk sugar The acid content also retards the growth of undesirable microorganisms; cultured prod-
ucts have been used for centuries to preserve milk.
Buttermilk originally referred to the liquid remaining after cream was churned into
Buttermilk in a Pinch butter. Today buttermilk is produced by adding a culture (Streptococcus lactis) to fresh,
pasteurized skim or low-fat milk. This results in tart milk with a thick texture. Buttermilk
To make a buttermilk substitute, combine is most often used as a beverage or in baked goods.
8 fluid ounces (240 milliliters) whole milk Sour cream is produced by adding the same culture used to make buttermilk to pas-
with ½ fluid ounce (15 milliliters) white teurized, homogenized light cream. The resulting product is a white, tangy gel. It is used
vinegar or lemon juice. The mixture should as a condiment or to enrich soups and sauces or give baked goods a distinctive flavor.
begin to separate (curdle) in 15 minutes. Sour cream must have a milkfat content of not less than 18%.
Stir well before using. A mixture of 2 fluid Crème fraîche is a cultured cream popular in French cuisine. Although thinner and
ounces (60 milliliters) whole milk and richer than sour cream, it has a similar tart, tangy flavor. It is used extensively in soups
6 fluid ounces (180 milliliters) plain yogurt and sauces, especially with poultry, rabbit and lamb dishes. It is easily prepared from the
also works as a buttermilk substitute. following recipe. Thinner than sour cream and crème fraîche, Mexican crema is a slightly
salty and tangy cultured cream used in Mexican and Latin cooking. Crème fraîche and
crema have a high fat content and can be boiled without curdling.

Vegetarian Crème Fraîche

YIELD 16 fl. oz. (480 ml)
Heavy cream, not ultra-pasteurized 16 fl. oz. 480 ml
Buttermilk, with active cultures 1 fl. oz. 30 ml

1 Heat the cream to approximately 100°F (43°C).

2 Remove the cream from the heat and stir in the buttermilk.
3 Allow the mixture to stand in a warm place, loosely covered, until it thickens, approximately
12–36 hours.
4 Chill thoroughly before using. Crème fraîche will keep for up to 10 days in the refrigerator.
Approximate values per 1-fl.-oz. (30-ml) serving: Calories 90, Total fat 10 g, Saturated fat 6 g, Cholesterol 35 mg,
Sodium 10 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 1 g, Vitamin A 10%, Claims—very low sodium

Yogurt is a thick, tart, custard-like product made from milk (either whole, low-fat or
nonfat) cultured with Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus. Though
touted as a health or diet food, yogurt is not necessarily low in fat or calories; it contains
the same amount of milkfat as the milk from which it is made. Yogurt may also contain a
variety of sweeteners, flavorings and fruits. Greek yogurt is a creamier and denser style of
whey the watery liquid remaining after milk yogurt, made by straining additional whey from the product or by adding additional milk
proteins coagulate into curds during the cheese protein solids. (Authentic Greek yogurt is often made with sheep’s milk.) Yogurt is gener-
making process. It contains vitamins, minerals, ally eaten alone but is also used in baked products, salad dressings and frozen desserts.
proteins and trace amounts of fat and is used Chefs who make yogurt and other fresh cheese in-house often reserve the whey for
in making whey cheese, such as ricotta, and as other uses such as a liquid in which to cook fish, meat or vegetables. Whey’s acidity and
a substitute for non-fat milk
tangy flavor make it a good option to use in place of a squeeze of lemon when finishing
sauces or on top of seafood.
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 147

Butter
Butter is a fatty substance produced by agitating or churning cream. The flavor butter Grading Butter
adds to sauces, breads and pastries is unequaled. Butter contains at least 80% milkfat, not Although government grading is not
more than 16% water and 2–4% milk solids. It may or may not contain added salt. Butter mandatory for butter, most processors
is firm when chilled and soft at room temperature. It melts into a liquid at approximately submit their butters for testing. The USDA
93°F (33°C) and reaches the smoke point at 260°F (127°C). label on the package assures the buyer
Sweet butter is another name for unsalted butter. Salted butter, as the name implies, that the butter meets federal standards
is butter with salt added. Typically 1.7% salt is used, although exact amounts vary from for the grade indicated:
producer to producer. Salt not only changes the butter’s flavor, it also extends its shelf
▪▪ USDA Grade AA: Butter of superior
life. When using salted butter in cooking or baking, the salt content must be considered
in the total recipe. quality, with a fresh, sweet flavor and
European-style butter contains more milkfat than regular butter, usually 82–86%, aroma, a smooth, creamy texture and
and very little or no added salt. It is often churned from cultured cream, giving it a good spreadability.
more intense, buttery flavor. It may be used in lieu of any regular butter in cooking ▪▪ USDA Grade A: Butter of very good
or baking. quality, with a pleasing flavor and fairly
Whipped butter is made by incorporating air into the butter. This increases its vol- smooth texture.
ume and spreadability but also shortens its shelf life. Because of the change in density, ▪▪ USDA Grade B: Butter of standard
whipped butter should not be substituted in recipes calling for regular butter. quality, made from sour cream; has an
Clarified butter is butter that is melted so that the water and milk solids can be acceptable flavor but lacks the flavor,
removed by a process called clarification. Ghee is a form of clarified butter in which the texture and body of Grades AA and A.
milk solids remain with the fat and are heated until light brown. It originated in India but Grade B is most often used in industrial
is now used worldwide as an ingredient and cooking medium. Although whole butter food manufacturing.
can be used for cooking or sauce making, sometimes a more stable and consistent prod-
uct will be achieved by using clarified butter. The clarification process is described in
whole butter butter that is not clarified,
Chapter 9, Mise en Place. whipped or reduced-fat

Margarine
Margarine is not a dairy product but is included in this section because it is frequently
substituted for butter in cooking, baking and table service. Margarine is manufactured
from vegetable fats and may contain milk products. Flavorings, colorings, emulsifiers, emulsifier a substance added to a mixture to
preservatives and vitamins are added, and the mixture is firmed or solidified by exposure assist in the binding of unmixable liquids such
to hydrogen gas at very high temperatures, a process known as hydrogenation. Gener- as oil and water. Chemicals may be used as
ally the firmer the margarine, the greater the degree of hydrogenation and the longer its emulsifiers, but naturally occurring soy and egg
shelf life. Like butter, margarine is approximately 80% fat and 16% water but even the lecithin are commonly used in processed foods
finest margarine cannot match the flavor of butter.
Margarine packaged in tubs is softer and more spreadable than solid products and
generally contains more water and air. For example, diet margarine is approximately
50% water. Because they are less dense, these soft products should not be substituted for
regular butter or margarine in cooking or baking.
Specially formulated and blended margarine is available for commercial use in mak-
ing puff pastry, croissant doughs, frostings and related products.

Margarine: From Laboratory Bench to Dinner Table

Margarine was invented by a French chemist in of margarine. He explains that margarine it to its true colors, some states did not allow
1869 after Napoleon III offered a prize for the caught on quickly in Europe and America, margarine to be dyed yellow (animal fats and
development of an inexpensive synthetic edible with large-scale production underway by vegetable oils are much paler than butter); the
fat that could be supplied to his military forces. 1880, but the American dairy industry and dye was sold separately and mixed in by the
Originally produced from beef fat and milk, the U.S. government put up fierce resistance. consumer. World War II, which brought butter
margarine is now made almost exclusively from Under federal law it was taxed and its sale rationing, probably did the most to establish
vegetable fats. restricted to licensed stores. The U.S. margarine’s respectability. However, it was not
In On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of government refused to purchase it for use by until 1967 that yellow margarine could be sold
the Kitchen, Harold McGee recounts the history the armed forces. And, in an attempt to hold in Wisconsin.
148 CHAPTER EIGHT

Storage of Milk and Milk Products

Safety Alert Fluid milk and cultured dairy products require time and temperature control for safety
Milk Storage (TCS) and should be kept refrigerated at or below 41°F (5°C). The shelf life of fluid milk
is reduced by half for every 5-degree rise in temperature above 41°F (5°C). Keep milk
Canned milks, aseptically packaged milks containers closed to prevent absorption of odors and flavors. Freezing is not recom-
and dry milk powders are shelf-stable mended, although whole milk that has been frozen can be used to make simple cheeses,
products needing no refrigeration. After such as ricotta. Ultra-pasteurized cream will keep for 6 to 8 weeks if refrigerated at or
the can or box is opened or the powder is below 41°F (5°C). Unwhipped cream should not be frozen. Keep cream away from
reconstituted with water, however, these strong odors and bright lights, as they can adversely affect its flavor. Under proper condi-
require time and temperature control for tions, sour cream will last up to 4 weeks, yogurt up to 3 weeks and buttermilk up to
safety (TCS) and must be handled just as 2 weeks. Freezing is not recommended for these products, however, dishes prepared
carefully as fresh milk. Do not store an with cultured products generally can be frozen.
open can of milk in its original container, Due to its high fat content, butter is extremely prone to rancidity. Butter that is rancid
and keep all milk products refrigerated at develops a harsh bitter taste and deep yellow to brown color. To preserve its freshness,
or below 41°F (5°C). butter should be well wrapped and stored at temperatures between 32°F and 35°F (0°C
and 2°C). Unsalted butter is best kept frozen until needed. If well wrapped, frozen butter
will keep for up to 9 months at a temperature of 0°F (–18°C).
rancidity the decomposition of fats by exposure Unlike butter, margarine is not prone to rancidity, but like butter it should be kept
to oxygen, resulting in off-flavors and destruction refrigerated at or below 41°F (5°C). Wrap it well to prevent it from absorbing odors.
of nutritive components Well wrapped frozen margarine will keep for up to 9 months at a temperature of
0°F (–18°C).

CHEESE
Cheese (Fr. fromage; It. formaggio) is one of the oldest and most widely used foods
known to humankind. It is served alone or as a principal ingredient in or an accompani-
ment to countless dishes such as cheese fondue and soufflé. Cheese is commonly used
in everything from breakfast to snacks to desserts. It is popular as a standalone course,
first course or dessert.

Natural Cheeses
Hundreds of natural, unprocessed cheeses are produced worldwide. Although their
shapes, ages and flavors vary according to local preferences and traditions, all natural
cheeses are produced in the same basic fashion that has been used for centuries. Each
starts with a mammal’s milk; cows, goats and sheep are the most commonly used. The
milk proteins (known as casein) are coagulated with the addition of an enzyme, usu-
ally rennet, which is found in calves’ stomachs. As the milk coagulates, it separates
into solid (curds) and liquid (whey). After draining off the whey, either the curds are
made into fresh cheese, such as ricotta or cottage cheese, or the curds are further
processed by cutting, kneading and cooking. The resulting substance, known as
“green cheese,” is packed into molds to drain. Salt or special bacteria may be added
to the molded cheeses, which are then allowed to ripen (age) under controlled condi-
tions. The method used to ripen a cheese, the location where the ripening takes
place, whether in a cave or temperature-controlled chamber, for example, and the
length of time a cheese is allowed to ripen determine the texture, color and flavor of
the final product.
Cheeses are a product of their environment, which is why most fine cheeses cannot
be reproduced outside their native locale. The breed and feed of the milk animal, the
wild spores and molds in the air and even the wind currents in a storage area can affect
the manner in which a cheese develops. (Roquefort, for example, develops its distinctive
flavor from aging in particular caves that are filled with crosscurrents of cool, moist air.)
The interior, referred to as the paste, of a cheese changes texture as it ages, becoming
creamy and flowing or firm and sometimes crunchy depending on the type of cheese
being made.
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 149

Some cheeses (soft-ripened) develop a natural rind or surface called bloomy rind
because of the application of bacteria–a mold, yeast or yeast-like fungus–that grows into Making Mozzarella
a downy white coating. Repeated washing with brine, beer, brandy or wine also encour-
ages the formation of surface mold on other types of cheese (washed rind). The pro- In Italy, mozzarella is made every day; it is
nounced aroma on washed rind cheese gives their paste distinctive flavors. Both meant to be consumed just as often.
soft-ripened and washed rind cheeses ripen from the outside into the center. Most natu- Before there was refrigeration, the balls of
ral rinds may be eaten if desired. Other cheeses are coated with an inedible wax rind to mozzarella were stored in well water to
prevent moisture loss. (Cheeses that are smoked are frequently coated with a brown wax keep them cool, which is where the
rind.) Fresh cheeses do not have rinds. tradition originated of storing fresh
Most cheeses contain high percentages of fat and protein. Cheese is also rich in cal- mozzarella in liquid.
cium, phosphorus and vitamin A. As animal products, natural cheeses contain choles- Once the milk coagulates and the
terol. Today many low-fat and even nonfat processed cheeses are available. Sodium has curds are cut, the mass is slowly stirred to
also been reduced or eliminated from some modern products. enhance the whey’s expulsion. A few hours
Moisture and fat contents are good indicators of a cheese’s texture and shelf life. later, when the curds are mature, they are
The higher the moisture content, the softer the product and the more perishable it will removed from the whey, chopped or
be. Low-moisture cheeses may be used for grating and keep for several weeks if prop- shredded and then mixed with hot water.
erly stored. (Reduced water levels prohibit bacterial growth.) Fat content ranges from To test the exact amount of maturity, a
low fat (less than 20% fat) to double cream (at least 60% fat) and triple cream (at least handful of curds is dipped into a bucket of
72% fat). Cheeses with a high fat content are creamier and have a richer flavor and hot water for 10 seconds. When the curds
texture than low-fat products. are removed, they should be kneaded
briefly and then, holding the mass with
two hands, it should be pulled and
Cheese Varieties stretched out to determine its maturity.
Cheeses can be classified by country of origin, ripening method, fat content or texture. When it can be stretched as thin and
Here we classify the varieties of fine cheeses by texture and have adopted five catego- opaque as tissue paper, it is exactly ready
ries: fresh or unripened, soft, semisoft, firm and hard. A separate section on goat’s-milk to be strung. At this point, small amounts
cheeses is also included. of curd are dumped into a small vat and
Many of the finest cheeses originated in European countries. Government regulations stirred with hot water using a paddle.
in those countries and in the European Union protect certain cheeses, by ensuring that This is known as “stringing” the cheese
they are made only in specific locations using traditional methods and by protecting because as the curds are mixed with the
their names (e.g., Roquefort, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Cabrales) from imitation or misuse. water they begin to melt somewhat and
Cheese makers in the United States and elsewhere may succeed in producing a high- become stringy. The more the cheese is
quality cheese similar to the original, but they cannot use the legally protected name. stirred, the longer the strings are
Hence there are many Emmental cheeses, but only one Emmentaler Switzerland AOP. stretched. Eventually all the strings come
Large commercial cheese producers worldwide may approximate the general character- together to make a large mass of
istics of a style of cheese to produce less expensive substitutes. This accounts for the satiny-smooth cheese. In Italian the word
wide variety of cheddars, mozzarellas, Goudas and Parmesans on the market. The cheese filare means “to string”; therefore all
descriptions here explain the original source and method of production, unless other- cheeses that are strung are members of
wise noted, and indicate cheese names that are legally protected. the pasta filata family.
When stringing is complete, the cheese
is ready to be shaped and hand-formed
Fresh or Unripened Cheeses
into balls. The balls are tossed
Fresh cheeses are uncooked and unripened. They are generally mild and creamy with a immediately into vats of cool water so
tart tanginess. A good fresh cheese does not taste acidic or bitter. Fresh cheeses have a they will maintain the desired shapes.
moisture content of 40–80% and are highly perishable. A number of fresh cheeses can be When cool, the balls are immersed in
easily made in a food service kitchen. When space and time permit, making fresh cheese brine solution and then wrapped in
ensures a quality product and may offer cost savings as well. parchment paper.
Cream cheese is a soft cow’s-milk cheese containing approximately 35% fat. It is
available in solid white blocks or whipped and sometimes flavored. It is used in bak- —PAULA LAMBERT, owner of the Mozzarella
ing, dips, dressings and confections and is popular as a spread for bagels. Fromage Company in Dallas, Texas.
blanc and fromage frais are unripened soft cheeses from France made from cultured
cow’s milk. Mildly acidic and tangy, their fat content ranges from 0% to 40%. The tex-
ture of fromage blanc resembles yogurt although it can be purchased in molds that
drain off some of the whey and firm the cheese. Fromage frais, which must contain live
cultures, tends to be firmer than fromage blanc. Both cheeses are served at breakfast,
as dessert or in sauces. Fromage frais is often blended with herbs and spices to make
a cheese spread that is sold commercially or can be made from the following recipe.
150 CHAPTER EIGHT

Vegetarian Herb Cheese Spread

YIELD 1 lb. 4 oz. (600 g); 5 Molds, 4 oz.
(120 g) each
Unsalted butter, softened 4 oz. 120 g
Cream cheese, softened 1 lb. 480 g
Fine sea salt ½ tsp. 2 ml
Heavy cream 1 Tbsp. 15 ml
Fresh garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. 15 g
Fresh chives, minced 2 Tbsp. 30 ml
Fresh parsley, minced 1 Tbsp. 15 ml
White pepper, ground ¼ tsp. 1 ml

1 Blend the butter and cream cheese in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on
medium speed until smooth.
2 Dissolve the salt in the cream. Add the cream and remaining ingredients to the cheese. Scrape
down the bowl and blend thoroughly.
3 Pack the cheese mixture into five 4-ounce molds lined with plastic wrap.
4 Chill thoroughly before using. This herb cheese will keep for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.
Approximate values per 1-oz. (30-g) serving: Calories 90, Total fat 10 g, Saturated fat 6 g, Cholesterol 35 mg,
Sodium 10 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 1 g, Vitamin A 10%

Feta is a semisoft cheese popular in Mediterranean cuisines. Traditionally made from

sheep’s and/or goat’s milk, it is a white, flaky cheese that is pickled (but not ripened)
and stored in brine water, giving it a shelf life of 4–6 weeks. Feta’s flavor becomes
sharper and saltier with age. Feta is ideal for snacking and in
salads and fillings for breads, pastries and other foods.
Mascarpone [mas-cahr-POHN-ay] is a soft cow’s-milk
cheese originally from Italy’s Lombard region. It contains
70–75% fat and is extremely smooth and creamy. Mascarpone
is highly perishable and is available in bulk or in 8- or 16-ounce
tubs. It has a characteristic pale ivory color and rich, sweet fla-
vor and is incorporated into both sweet and savory sauces as
Feta well as desserts. It is also eaten plain, with fresh fruit or spread on Mascarpone
bread and sprinkled with cocoa or sugar.
Mozzarella [maht-suh-REHL-lah] is a firm Italian cheese traditionally made with water
buffalo’s milk (today cow’s milk is more common) and containing 40–45% fat. Mozza-
rella becomes elastic when melted and is well known as “pizza
cheese.” Fresh mozzarella is excellent in salads or topped simply
with olive oil and herbs. It is a very mild white cheese best
eaten within hours of production. Factory-made mozzarella is
rather bland and rubbery and is best reserved for cooking,
for which it may be purchased already shredded. When the
fresh mozzarella is still warm, its center may be filled with
cream, butter or another soft cheese to make burrata. This
highly perishable semisoft cheese is served fresh with toma- Mozzarella
toes, salad greens or fresh fruit.
Queso Oaxaca [KEH-soh wah-HA-kaa], also known as Quesillo or Asadero, is one
of the most popular cheeses of Mexico. It is a cow’s-milk pasta filata or stretched-
curd cheese that is kneaded and wound into balls, then soaked in brine for several
minutes. It is pulled apart into thin strings before being used to fill tortillas or melted
Queso Oaxaca over cooked dishes. Queso Oaxaca is a good melting cheese with a smooth semisoft
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 151

texture, white color and 45% fat content. It is invaluable in preparing Mexican and
Mexican-American dishes, such as quesadillas, nachos and tacos, and is also available
blended with herbs, spices or chiles.
Ricotta [rih-COH-tah] is a soft Italian cheese, similar to American cottage cheese, tradi-
tionally made from the whey leftover after other cow’s-milk cheeses are produced. It
contains only 4–10% fat. It is white or ivory in color and fluffy, with a small grain and
sweet flavor. Ricotta is an important ingredient in many pasta dishes and desserts. Ricotta
is best when freshly made; it can be made easily with the following recipe.
Ricotta

Ricotta Cheese Vegetarian

YIELD 8 oz. (240 g)

Milk 28 fl. oz. 840 ml
Heavy cream 4 fl. oz. 120 ml
Fresh lemon juice or distilled white vinegar 3 fl. oz. 90 ml

1 Combine the milk and cream in a container with a cover. Cover and allow the milk and cream mix-
ture to reach room temperature.
2 In a stainless steel saucepan, slowly heat the milk and cream to 180°F (82°C), stirring often. Hold
the heated milk at 180°F (82°C) for 5 minutes.
3 Remove the milk from the heat and gently stir it while adding the lemon juice or vinegar. Continue
to stir gently until curds begin to form. Stop stirring and allow the milk mixture to sit at room tem-
perature, uncovered until a solid mass of curds forms, approximately 20 minutes.
4 Gently pour or ladle the curds into a strainer or china cap lined with new, rinsed cheesecloth. Allow
the whey (liquid) to separate and drain away from the curds (solids). Discard the whey or reserve it
for another use.
5 Allow the cheese to rest covered and undisturbed for 30 minutes to an hour.
6 Unwrap the cheese. Season it with salt if desired. Use the cheese as you would use commercially
produced ricotta.

Variation:
For a firm, dry ricotta, in Step 4 lift the corners of the cheesecloth and tie them together with twine.
Suspend the bag in a tall, covered container, place it in the refrigerator and allow the cheese to
drain for 4 hours or overnight. (Or line perforated cheese molds with cheesecloth. Pack the cheese
into the molds. Fold up the cheesecloth, then top them with weights. Refrigerate overnight.) Dry ricotta cheese

Approximate values per 1-oz. (30-g) serving: Calories 80, Total fat 4 g, Saturated fat 2.5 g, Cholesterol 15 mg, Sodium 60 mg,
Total carbohydrates 7 g, Protein 4 g, Calcium 15%

➊ Heating the milk to 180°F (82°C). ➋ Gently stirring in the lemon juice. ➌ Straining the mixture through cheesecloth.
152 CHAPTER EIGHT

Soft Cheeses
Soft cheeses are characterized by their thin skins and creamy centers. They are among
the most delicious and popular of cheeses. They ripen quickly, from the rind toward the
center, and are at their peak for only a few days, sometimes less. Moisture content of soft
cheeses ranges from 50% to 75%.
Brie [bree] is a soft-ripened French cheese made with cow’s milk and containing
about 60% fat. Brie is made in round, flat disks weighing 2 or 4 pounds (1 or 2 kilo-
grams) coated with a bloomy white rind and has a texture that oozes.
Brie de Meaux is a legally protected version made with unpasteur-
ized milk in the town of Meaux. Selecting a properly ripened Brie
is a matter of judgment and experience. Select a cheese that is
bulging a bit inside its rind; there should be just the begin-
ning of a brown coloring on the rind. Underripe Brie is
bland with a hard, chalky core. Once the cheese is cut, it
does not ripen any further. Overripe Brie has a brown-
ish rind that may be gummy or sagging and smells
strongly of ammonia.
Brie rind is edible but can be trimmed off if preferred.
The classic after-dinner cheese, Brie is also used in soups,
sauces and hors d’oeuvre. Small wheels of Brie may be wrapped
in pastry, baked and served warm.
Brie
Camembert [kam-uhm-BAIR] is a soft-ripened cow’s milk cheese traditionally
from France containing approximately 45% fat. Camembert is creamy, like Brie, but
milder. It is sold in small round or oval disks that have a white bloomy rind. Selecting
a properly ripened Camembert is similar to selecting a Brie, but Camembert becomes
overripe and ammoniated even more quickly than Brie. Camembert is an
excellent dessert or after-dinner cheese and goes particularly well with
fruit. Many fine Camembert-style cheeses, made from cow or goat’s
milk, are now produced in the United States.
Taleggio [tahl-EH-gee-oh] is a semisoft cheese that has been pro-
duced since the 10th century in a small town near Bergamo in the
Lombardy region of Italy. Made with pasteurized or unpasteurized
cow’s milk, it contains 48% fat and is aged for 1 to 2 months. Taleg-
Taleggio
gio has an orange-colored washed rind that is edible but pungent. It
is molded in a distinctive 8-inch square, approximately 2 inches
thick. Its nutty, salty flavor and strong aroma become softer, creamier
and more piquant with age. Serve as a dessert cheese with a strong red
wine, crusty bread and fruit, or with a salad at the end of a meal.

Semisoft Cheeses
Semisoft cheeses include many mild, buttery cheeses with smooth, sliceable textures.
Some semisoft cheeses are also known as monastery or Trappist cheeses because
their development is traced to monasteries, with some recipes having originated dur-
ing the Middle Ages. The moisture content of semisoft cheeses ranges from 40%
to 50%.
Cabrales [kah-BRAH-layss] is a blue-veined Spanish cheese made from a blend of
raw goat’s, ewe’s and cow’s milks and containing 45–48% fat. Its distinctive easily recog-
nizable wrapper is made from large maple, oak or sycamore leaves. The outer foil wrap-
per is marked with the Denominación de Origen (D.O.) logo, and each 5- to 9-pound
(2.5- to 4.5-kilogram) wheel is stamped with a unique number. It is aged for 3–6 months
under the cold, humid and breezy conditions in natural caves found in the Asturias
region. Cabrales has a moist, crumbly interior with purple-blue veins and a rough, salt-
cured rind. It has a thick, creamy texture, a strong aroma and a complex sour, piquant
flavor. Cabrales is especially good with salami and a full-bodied red wine or for dessert
Cabrales with a sweet sherry such as Pedro Ximénez.
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 153

Fontina [fon-TEE-nah] is a cow’s-milk cheese from

Italy’s Piedmont region containing approximately
45% fat. The original legally protected version,
known as Fontina Val D’Aosta, has a dark gold,
crusty rind; the pale gold, dense interior has a few
small holes. It is nutty and rich. The original must
have a purple trademark stamped on the rind. Imi-
tation Fontinas (properly known as Fontal or Fonti-
Fontina nella ) are produced in Denmark, France, Sweden, the
United States and other regions of Italy. They tend to be softer, with
less depth of flavor, and may have a rubbery texture. Real Fontina is a good after-dinner
cheese; the imitations are used in sauces, soups or sandwiches.
Gorgonzola [gohr-guhn-ZOH-lah] is a blue-veined cow’s-milk cheese traditionally
from Italy containing 48% fat. Gorgonzola has a white or ivory interior with bluish-green
veins. It is creamier than other blues such as Stilton or Roquefort, with a somewhat more
pungent, spicy, earthy flavor. White Gorgonzola has no veins but a similar flavor, while
aged Gorgonzola is drier and crumbly with a very strong, sharp flavor. The milder Gor- Gorgonzola
gonzolas are excellent with fresh peaches or pears or crumbled in a salad. Gorgonzola is
also used in sauces and pasta dishes.
Gouda [GOO-dah] is a Dutch cheese containing
approximately 48% fat. Gouda is sold in various-sized
wheels covered with red or yellow wax. The
cheese is yellow with a few small holes and a
mild, buttery flavor. Gouda may be sold soon
after production, or it may be aged for several
months up to two years, resulting in a firmer,
more flavorful cheese. Cheese crystals in long-aged
Gouda, a popular cheese board item, give the cheese
Gouda a crunchy texture. Gouda is widely popular for snacking
and sandwiches.
Havarti [hah-VAHR-tee] is a cow’s-milk monastery-style cheese from Denmark con-
taining 45–60% fat. Havarti is also known as Danish Tilsit. Pale yellow with many small,
Havarti
irregular holes, it is sold in small rounds, rectangular blocks or loaves. Havarti has a mild
flavor and creamy texture. It is often flavored with dill, caraway seeds or peppers. Havarti
is very popular for snacking and in sandwiches. blue cheese (1) a generic term for any cheese
   Port du Salut [por doo suh-LOO] is a monastery containing visible blue-green molds that
cow’s-milk product from France containing approxi- contribute a characteristic tart, sharp flavor and
mately 50% fat. Port du Salut (also known as Port aroma; also known as a blue-veined cheese or
Salut) is smooth, rich and savory. It is shaped in bleu; (2) a group of Roquefort-style cheeses made
in the United States and Canada from cow’s or
thick wheels with a dense, pale-yellow interior and
goat’s milk rather than ewe’s milk and injected
an edible, bright orange rind. The Danish version is
with molds that form blue-green veins; also
known as Esrom. One of the best and most known as blue mold cheese or blue-veined cheese
authentic Port du Saluts has the initials S.A.F.R.
stamped on the rind. Lesser-quality brands
may be bland and rubbery. It is popular
Port du Salut
for breakfast and snacking, especially
with fruit.
Roquefort [ROHK-fohr] is a blue-veined sheep’s-milk cheese from France
containing approximately 45% fat. The cheese, which has a storied history
dating back to the 15th century, is intensely pungent with a rich, salty flavor
and strong aroma. It is a white paste with veins of blue mold and a thin
natural rind shaped into thick, foil-wrapped cylinders. Roquefort is always
aged for at least 3 months in the limestone caves of Mount Combalou.
Since 1926 no producer outside this region can legally use the name
Roquefort or even “Roquefort-style.” Roquefort is an excellent choice for
serving before or after dinner and is essential in Roquefort dressing. Roquefort
154 CHAPTER EIGHT

Stilton is a blue-veined cow’s-milk cheese from Great Britain containing 45% fat. One
of the oldest and grandest cheeses in the world, with a name protected by the European
Union, Stilton has a white or pale-yellow interior with evenly spaced blue veins. Stilton’s
distinctive flavor is pungent, rich and tangy, combining the best of blues and cheddars.
It is aged in cool ripening rooms for 4–6 months to develop the blue veining; it is then
sold in tall cylinders with a crusty, edible rind. Stilton should be wrapped in a cloth
dampened with salt water and stored at cool temperatures, but not refrigerated. It is best
served alone or with plain crackers, dried fruit or vintage port.

Firm Cheeses
Firm cheeses are not hard or brittle. Some are close-textured and flaky, like Cheddar;
others are dense, holey cheeses like Emmenthaler. Most firm cheeses are actually imi-
tators of these two classics. Their moisture content ranges from 30% to 40%.
Cheddars are widely produced in North America, Australia and Great Britain.
Stilton American Cheddar is a cow’s-milk cheese made primarily in New York, Wisconsin,
Vermont and Oregon, containing from 45% to 50% fat. The best cheddars are made
from raw milk and aged for several months. (Raw milk may be used in the United States
provided the cheese is then aged at least 60 days.) They have a dense, crumbly texture.
Cheddars are white or colored orange with vegetable dyes, depending on local prefer-
ence. Flavors range from mild to very sharp, depending on the age of the cheese.
Colby and Longhorn are two well-known mild, soft-textured Wisconsin Cheddars.
Canadian and English Cheddars are also cow’s-milk cheeses containing
approximately 45–48% fat. They tend to be dryer and more sharply fla-
vored than American Cheddars because of additional aging and are popu-
lar for snacking and in soups.
Aged raw milk Cheddars
are welcome additions to
any cheese board.
Emmenthaler [EM-en-
tah-ler] is a cow’s-milk
cheese from Switzerland
containing approximately
45% fat. Emmenthaler
American Cheddar: Wisconsin Sharp, accounts for more than
Vermont Cabot, Canadian Black Diamond half of Switzerland’s cheese
production. It is mellow, rich
fondue a Swiss specialty made with melted and nutty with a natural rind and a
cheese, wine and flavorings; diners dip pieces of light-yellow interior full of large holes.
bread into the hot mixture with long forks The holes or “eyes” in Emmenthaler and
other cheeses are caused by gases expand-
ing inside the cheese during fermentation.
Authentic Emmenthaler is sold in 200- Emmenthaler
pound (90-kilogram) wheels with the word
Switzerland stamped on the rind like the
spokes of a wheel. Emmenthaler, one of the basic fondue cheeses, is also
popular for sandwiches, snacks and after dinner with fruit and nuts.
Gruyère [groo-YAIR] is a cow’s-milk cheese made near Fribourg in the
Swiss Alps that contains approximately 45–50% fat. Gruyère is often imi-
tated, as the name is not legally protected. True Gruyère is moist and highly
flavorful, with a sweet nuttiness similar to Emmenthaler. Gruyère is aged for up
to 12 months and then sold in huge wheels. It should have small, well-spaced
holes and a brown, wrinkled rind. Gruyère melts easily and is often used with
meats in sandwiches and in sauces, but it is also appropriate before or after dinner.
A similar cheese is Comté [con-TAY], also called Gruyère de Comté. It is cow’s-
milk cheese from the Jura Mountain region of France made from raw milk of the
Gruyère red and white Montbeliard breed.
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 155

Jarlsberg [YAHRLZ-behrg] is a Swiss-type cow’s-milk cheese from Norway

containing approximately 45% fat. Jarlsberg closely resembles Emmenthaler
in both flavor and appearance. It is mild with a delicate, sweet flavor and
large holes. Jarlsberg has a pale-yellow interior; it is coated with yellow wax
and sold in huge wheels. It has a long shelf life and is popular for sand-
wiches and snacking and in cooking.
Manchego [mahn-CHAY-goh] is the best-known and most widely available
Spanish sheep’s-milk cheese. Its ivory to pale-yellow interior is firm and compact with
a few small air pockets. It has a buttery and slightly piquant flavor with an aftertaste of Jarlsberg
sheep’s milk. The inedible rind is black, gray or beige with a very distinctive zigzag pat-
tern imprinted by the traditional esparto grass molds.
There are two types of Manchego: farmhouse style, made with unpasteurized sheep’s
milk, and industrial, made with pasteurized milk. For both, only milk from Manchega Manchego
sheep raised in the La Mancha region is used. Manchego is
aged from 2 months (fresco) to 1 year (curado) to 2 years
(añejo or viejo) and contains 45–57% fat. Its intense flavor
and crumbly texture make it excellent for eating with bread
or fruit or as the focal point of antipasto with a robust red
wine or a dry sherry.
Monterey Jack is a cheddar-like cow’s-milk cheese from
California containing 50% fat. It is very mild and rich, with a
pale ivory interior. It is sold in wheels or loaves. “Jack” is
often flavored with peppers or herbs and is good for snack-
ing and sandwiches. Dry-aged Jack develops a tough, wrin-
Monterey Jack kled brown rind and a rich, firm yellow interior; it has a
nutty, sharp flavor and is dry enough for grating.
Provolone [pro-voh-LOH-neh] is a cow’s-milk cheese originally from southern Italy
now widely made in the United States containing approximately 45% fat. Provolone Provolone
dolce, aged only 2 months, is mild, with a smooth texture. Provolone piccante, aged up
to 6 months, is stronger and somewhat flaky or stringy. Smoked provolone is also popu-
lar, especially for snacking. Provolone is shaped in various ways, from huge salamis to
plump spheres shaped by hand. It is excellent in sandwiches and for cooking and is
often melted in pizza and pasta dishes.

Hard Cheeses
Hard cheeses are carefully aged for extended periods and have a moisture content of about
30%. Hard cheeses are most often used for grating; the best flavor results from cheeses
grated as needed. Even the finest hard cheeses begin to lose their flavor within hours of grat- Asiago
ing. The most famous and popular hard cheeses are those from Italy, where they are known
as grana. A high quality hard cheese can also be served as a table cheese or with a salad.
Asiago [ah-zee-AH-go] is a cow’s-milk cheese from Italy containing approxi-
mately 30% fat. After one year of aging, Asiago is sharp and nutty with a cheddar-
like texture. If aged for 2 years or more, Asiago becomes dry, brittle and suitable for
grating. Either version should be a consistent white to pale yellow in color with no
dark spots, cracks or strong aromas. Asiago melts easily and is often used in cooked
vegetable dishes, on sandwiches and salads and in sauces.
Grana Padano [gran-ah pa-DAN-o] is produced throughout Northern Italy from
partly skim raw cow’s milk. It is formed into large cylinders, salted and aged
for at least 270 days. This process produces a cheese with a hard, dark
beige crust and a firm white to straw-yellow interior with a granular
texture and the aroma of almonds. It is excellent for grating, and its
sweet yet salty flavor is also enjoyed with fruit and wine.
Parmigiano-Reggiano [pahr-me-ZHAN-no reg-gee-AH-no] is a
cow’s-milk cheese made exclusively in the region near Parma, Italy,
containing from 32% to 35% fat. Parmigiano-Reggiano or Parmesan Parmigiano-Reggiano
as it is called in English, is one of the world’s oldest and most widely (Parmesan)
156 CHAPTER EIGHT

imitated cheeses. Used primarily for grating and cooking, it is rich, spicy and sharp
with a golden interior and a hard, oily rind. Parmigiano-Reggiano is not overly salty or
bitter. Reggiano, as it is known, is produced only from mid-April to mid-November. It
is shaped into huge wheels of about 80 pounds (36 kilograms) each, with the name
stenciled repeatedly around the rind. Imitation Parmesan is produced in the United
States, Argentina and elsewhere, but none match the distinctive flavor of true Reggiano.
Pecorino Romano [peh-coh-REE-no roh-MAH-no] is a sheep’s-milk cheese tradition-
ally made in central and southern Italy containing approximately 35% fat. Romano is
very brittle, saltier and sharper than other grating cheeses, with a “sheepy” tang. Its light,
grainy interior is whiter than Parmesan or Asiago. It is packed in large cylinders with a
yellow rind. Romano is often substituted for, or combined with, Parmesan in dishes, but
it is also good eaten with olives, sausages and red wine.

Pecorino Romano

Vegetarian Fromage Fort

Famously frugal, the French have a delicious way to repurpose bits of leftover cheese. Small pieces,
dry ends and crumbles of hard and soft cheeses are puréed into a flavorful spread. Moistened with
stock and a little wine, seasoned with garlic and herbs, this pungent mixture, called fromage fort,
is served cold or slightly melted under the broiler. Any variety of cheese may be used to make this
pungent spread. Using hard cheeses may require more butter and less wine or stock. Using creamy
cheeses may require cutting back on the additional liquid.

YIELD 1 lb. 4 oz. (600 g); 5 Ramekins, 4 oz.

(120 g) each
Fresh garlic cloves, peeled 2 2
Green onions, sliced 2 2
Assortment of hard and soft cheeses, grated 10 oz. 300 mg
Unsalted butter or cream cheese, softened 3 oz. 90 g
White wine 3 fl. oz. 90 ml
White stock, optional 3 fl. oz. 90 ml
Black pepper ¼ tsp. 2 ml
Fresh parsley, chopped 1 Tbsp. 15 ml
Fresh chives, sliced 1 Tbsp. 15 ml
Dried thyme pinch pinch

1 Blend the garlic and green onions in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until finely
chopped.
2 Add the grated cheese and butter. Process until well blended.
3 Add the white wine, half of the stock and the pepper, parsley, chives and thyme. Process until the
mixture reaches a smooth and creamy texture adding more stock as needed to make a smooth spread.
4 Pack the spread into ramekins. Cover and refrigerate or freeze until needed.
5 Present the molded cheese on a platter or press into a serving bowl. Garnish as desired and serve
with toast points, crackers or raw vegetables.
Approximate values per 1-oz. (30-g) serving: Calories 90, Total fat 8 g, Saturated fat 4.5 g, Cholesterol 25 mg,
Sodium 90 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 3 g

Goat’s-Milk Cheeses
Because of their increasing popularity, cheeses made from goat’s milk deserve a few
words of their own. Although goats produce less milk than cows, their milk is higher in
fat and protein and richer and more concentrated in flavor. Cheeses made with goat’s
milk have a sharp, tangy flavor. They range in texture from very soft and fresh to very
hard, depending on age.
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 157

Assorted French soft cheeses and French goat’s-milk cheeses (clockwise starting from the top right):
log of herb-coated goat’s cheese, Banon wrapped in leaves, cinder-coated Sainte Maure, Chabichou
goat’s cheese, Chabichou marinated in olive oil, herbs and peppercorns and, in the center, Camembert

Chèvre [shehv; French for “goat”] refers to small, soft, creamy cheeses produced in a
variety of shapes: cones, disks, pyramids or logs. Chèvres are often coated with ash,
herbs or seasonings. (Ash protects the surface of the cheese as it ages and enhances the
development of beneficial surface mold.) They are excellent for cooking and comple-
ment a wide variety of flavors. Unfortunately they have a short shelf life, as brief as
2 weeks. Cheese labeled pur chèvre must be made with 100% goat’s milk; other chèvres
may be a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk.
The finest goat’s-milk cheeses traditionally come from France. Preferred brands
include Bûcheron, exported from France in 5-pound (2-kilogram) logs; Chevrotin, one of
the mildest; and Montrachet, a tangy soft cheese from the Burgundy wine region. Numer-
ous North American cheese makers produce excellent goat’s-milk cheeses in a wide
variety of shapes and styles.

Cheese Terminology
The following terms often appear on cheese Coulant: French for “flowing,” used Mi chèvre: A French product containing at
labels and may help you to identify or appreciate to describe ripe Brie, Camembert and least 25% goat’s milk
new or unfamiliar cheeses: other cheeses with interiors that ooze Ost: Scandinavian for “cheese”
or flow
Pecorino: Italian term for all sheep’s-milk
Affiné: French term for a cured or properly Ferme or fermier: French adjective used to cheeses
ripened cheese indicate farm-produced as opposed to
Queso: Spanish for “cheese”
Bleu: French for “blue” factory-produced cheeses
Râpé: French term applied to cheeses that are
Brique or briquette: Refers to a group of French Fromage: French for “cheese”
suitable for grating
brick-shaped cheeses Kaas: Dutch for “cheese”
Tome or tomme: Term used by the French,
Brosse: French term for cheeses that are Käse: German for “cheese” Italians and Swiss to refer to mountain cheeses,
brushed with liquid or oil during ripening
Lait cru: French term for raw milk particularly from the Pyrénées or Savoie regions
Capra: Italian term for goat’s-milk cheese
Laiterie or laitier: French for “dairy”; appears Tyrophile: One who loves cheese
Carré: French term for square, flat cheeses on factory-made cheeses Vaccino: Italian term for cow’s-milk cheese
Cendré: French term for cheeses ripened in Matières grasses: French term for fat content Vache: French term for cow’s-milk cheese
ashes
158 CHAPTER EIGHT

American Cheese Production

The first cheese factory in the United States rich farmlands, which now produce 25% of the practices, although barely 10% obtain organic
was built in 1851 in Oneida County, New York. country’s cheese. In 2013 the United States certification. A subcategory referred to as
Neighboring Herkimer County soon became produced over 5 million metric tons of cheese, farmstead cheese must be made on the
the center of the American cheese industry and mostly mozzarella, cheddar and Colby-Jack. producer’s property with milk from the
remained so for the next 50 years. During this A movement to return to traditional, artisanal producer’s own herd or flock. Artisan cheese
time, the largest cheese market in the world cheese making began in the 1980s. According to makers generally use milk from cows or goats,
was at Little Falls, New York, where farm- the American Cheese Society, as of 2016 there but sheep and buffalo milk is also employed.
produced cheeses and cheeses from more than were more than 900 artisan cheese producers in These cheeses may be sold fresh or aged and are
200 factories were sold. the United States and 740 cheese professionals often flavored with herbs, fruits or other
Although New York still produces some certified by the organization. Artisan cheeses seasonings. Artisan cheeses are now made in
outstanding cheddar cheeses, the bulk of the are mostly handmade in small batches using as virtually every state and are widely available at
American cheese industry gradually moved little mechanical assistance as possible. Almost farmers markets and through online and
westward, eventually settling in Wisconsin’s 60% of these producers claim to employ organic specialty retailers.

Processed Cheeses
Pasteurized processed cheese is made from a combination of aged and unaged
cheeses mixed with emulsifiers and flavorings, pasteurized and poured into molds to
solidify. In this way, manufacturers produce cheeses with consistent textures and fla-
vors. Processed cheeses are commonly used in food service operations because they
are less expensive than natural cheeses. And, because processed cheeses will not age
or ripen, their shelf life is much longer than natural cheeses. Nutritionally, processed
cheeses generally contain less protein, calcium and vitamin A and more sodium than
natural cheeses.
Processed cheese food contains less natural cheese (but at least 51% by weight) and
more moisture than regular processed cheese. Often vegetable oils and milk solids are
added, making cheese food soft and spreadable.
Imitation cheese is usually manufactured with dairy by-products and soy products
mixed with emulsifiers, colorings and flavoring agents and enzymes. Although consider-
ably less expensive than natural cheese, imitation cheese tends to be dense and rubbery,
with little flavor other than that of salt.

Serving Cheeses
Cheeses may be served at any time of day. In Northern Europe, they are common for
breakfast; in Great Britain, they are a staple at lunch. Cheeses are widely used in sand-
wiches, snacks and cooking in America, and they are often served following the entrée
or instead of dessert.
The flavor and texture of natural cheeses are best at room temperature. All cheeses
except for fresh cheeses should be removed from the refrigerator 30 minutes to an hour
before service to allow them to come to room temperature. Fresh cheeses, such as cot-
tage and cream, should be eaten chilled.
Chefs follow some general guidelines when preparing a cheese board or cheese plate
to be served in a food service operation.
1 Any selection of fine cheeses should include a variety of flavors and textures:
from mild to sharp, from soft to creamy to firm.
2 A variety of shapes and colors provide visual appeal.
3 Do not precut the cheeses, as this causes them to dry. When portioning cheese
for a cheese board or cheese plate, choose the right knife or tool for the task. Soft
and semisoft cheeses can be cut with a knife dipped in hot water then dried
before using. Hard cheeses may require a two-handled knife. Often hard cheeses,
such as aged Gouda, are shaved into thin slices.
 DAIRY PRODUCTS 159

4 A round soft or semisoft cheese should be cut through the center into wedges.
A rectangular soft cheese may be cut into wedges or thin strips. Regardless of
the shape of a soft cheese, each portion should include some of the rind and
some of the paste so that the diner experiences all of the flavors in the cheese.
5 Fine cheeses are best appreciated with plain bread such as slices of a French
baguette and crackers. Salted or seasoned crackers can mask the cheese’s flavor.
Stronger cheeses such as ripe blue cheese can stand up to breads made with nuts
and dried fruit.
6 Condiments such as honey, quince paste and fruit preserves pair well with cheese
as do nuts and dried or fresh non-citrus fruits.

Storing Cheeses
Most cheeses are best kept in the refrigerator, well wrapped to keep odors out and mois-
ture in. Firm and hard cheeses can be kept for several weeks; fresh cheeses will spoil in
7–10 days because of their high moisture content. Some cheeses that have become hard A cheese plate composed of American soft
or dry may still be grated for cooking or baking. Freezing cheese is possible but not rec- cheeses with garnishes (clockwise starting from
ommended because it changes the cheese’s texture, making it mealy or tough. the top): Crottin goat’s-milk cheese from Ver-
mont, Camembert from California, a raw cow
Cooking with Cheese and goat’s-milk blue cheese from Oregon and a
When heated, cheese can melt into a tough, stringy mass because of its high protein triple cream cow’s-milk cheese from California
content. Long exposure to heat can also cause cheese mixtures to curdle and separate.
Lower-fat cheeses, such as cottage, feta and factory-made low-fat products, are espe-
cially difficult to heat. Therefore it is important to use low temperatures and short cook-
ing times. Cheeses can be incorporated into sauces and soups by first grating the cheese
while cold. The resulting small pieces melt quickly and evenly. Add cheese toward the
end of cooking, and do not allow cheese mixtures to boil. Hold cheese mixtures warm
over a bain marie or indirect heat.
When melting a cheese topping, place the dish 4–6 inches from the heating element
or broiler and broil only until the cheese melts. Cheese can taste scorched and the fats
can separate if overheated. Dry, high-fat cheeses such as Parmesan and Pecorino can
tolerate heat better and are good choices for toppings.

Classic Cheese Fondue Vegetarian

YIELD 1 Quart (960 ml) MISE EN PL ACE

Emmenthaler cheese, grated coarse 1 lb. 480 g  Grate cheeses.
Gruyère cheese, grated coarse 1 lb. 480 g  Peel and cut garlic in half.
Flour or cornstarch 1 ½ oz. 45 g  Cut French bread into cubes.
Dry white wine 24 fl. oz. 720 ml
Fresh lemon juice 2 fl. oz. 60 ml
Black pepper TT TT
Nutmeg, ground TT TT
Paprika TT TT
Kirsch 3 fl. oz. 90 ml
Garlic clove, halved 1 1
French bread, cut into 1-in. as needed as needed
  (2.5-cm) cubes
1 Toss the grated cheesed in a bowl with the flour or cornstarch.
2 Heat the wine and lemon juice in a nonreactive saucepan over medium high heat. When the wine
just starts to boil, add the cheese. Stir with a wire whisk until the cheeses melt. Add the pepper,
nutmeg and paprika to taste. Stir in the Kirsch.
3 Rub a fondue pot with the cut clove of garlic. Add the cheese mixture and serve with cubed
French bread.
Approximate values per 2-oz. (60-g) serving: Calories 140, Total fat 9 g, Saturated fat 5 g, Cholesterol 30 mg,
Sodium 130 mg, Total carbohydrates 2 g, Protein 8 g, Calcium 25%
160 CHAPTER EIGHT

Wine and Cheese: Classic Combinations

Some cheeses are delicious with beers or ales. Camembert with Bordeaux, Roquefort with and Valpolicella are delicious with Italian
Others are best with strong coffee or apple Sauternes and English Cheddar with Burgundy. cheese—Gorgonzola, Parmigiano-Reggiano,
cider, and nothing accompanies a Cheddar Although taste preferences are an individual Provolone, Taleggio. And a dry, aged Monterey
cheese sandwich as well as ice-cold milk. For matter, cheese–wine marriages follow two Jack is perhaps the perfect mate for California
most cheeses, however, the ultimate partner is schools of thought: pair likes or pair opposites. Zinfandel.
wine. Wine and cheese bring out the best in Pairing like with like is simple: Cheeses are Opposites do attract as well. Sweet wines
each other. The proteins and fats in cheeses often best served with wines produced in the such as Riesling, Sauternes and Gewürztraminer
take the edge off harsh or acidic wines, whereas same region. For example, a white Burgundy go well with sharp, tangy blues, especially
the tannins and acids in wines bring out the such as Montrachet is an excellent choice for Roquefort. And light, sparkling wines such as
creamy richness of cheeses. cheeses from Burgundy; goat cheeses from the Champagne or Spanish Cava are a nice
Because of their natural affinity, certain Rhone Valley go well with wines of that region. complement to rich, creamy cheeses such as
pairings are universal favorites: Stilton with port, Hearty Italian wines such as Chianti, Barolo Brie and Camembert.

QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION

1 What is milkfat, and how is it used in classifying milk-based products?
2 If a recipe calls for whole milk and you have only dried milk, what do you do? Explain your
answer.
3 Explain how rennet is used in the cheese-making process.
4 The texture and shelf life of cheese depends on what two factors? Which cheeses should be
stored in a brine solution or with salt-water soaked cheesecloth?
5 Cheeses are categorized as fresh, soft, semisoft, firm and hard. Give two examples of each,
and explain how they are generally used.
6 What are the flavor characteristics of goat’s milk cheeses?
7 The FDA and many states currently ban the sale of raw milk or products such as cheese,
made from raw milk. Several groups, including the American Cheese Society, A Campaign
for Real Milk, Slow Food USA and some organic dairy farmers are fighting to legalize the
sale of these products. Use outside resources to learn about the sale of raw milk products.
What arguments are used in support of and in opposition to the sale of raw milk products?
8 Describe the guidelines to follow when choosing cheeses for a cheese plate for a restaurant
menu.