EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

STOCKHOLM
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

STOCKHOLM
Main Contributor: Kaj Sandell
 Contents
Produced by Streiffert Förlag AB, Stockholm
Chief Editor Bo Streiffert
Project Editor Guy Engström
Editors Guy Engström, Monica Nilsson
Designer Bo Streiffert
Picture Research Guy Engström

Dorling Kindersley Ltd

Managing Editor Anna Streiffert
Art Director Gillian Allan

Main Contributor Kaj Sandell

Contributors
Lisa Carlsson, Jan & Christine Samuelson,
Christina Sollenberg Britton, Stockholm Visitors Board

Maps Stig Söderlind

Photographers
Erik Svensson, Jeppe Wikström
Wooden sculpture on the 17th-century
Illustrations
warship Vasa
Urban Frank, assisted by Jan Rojmar

English Translation Philip Ray

Reproduced by PDC Tangen, Norway

Introducing
Printed and bound in Malaysia by Vivar Printing Sdn. Bhd Stockholm
First published in Great Britain in 2000 by Dorling Kindersley Ltd
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
Great Days in Stockholm 8
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Putting Stockholm on
Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2004, 2007, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 the Map 12
Copyright 2000, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Ltd, London
A Penguin Random House company The History of
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, Stockholm 16
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner. Stockholm Through
A CIP Catalogue record is available from the British Library.
the Year 28
ISBN 978 0 24120 871 7

Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; Stockholm

ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.
Front cover main image: Aerial view of Gamla Stan at a Glance 32

The information in this Dorling Kindersley Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected]. Kaknästornet, Stockholm’s tallest building
at 155 m (508 ft)
Colourful houses in Gamla Stan, Stockholm
 Stockholm
Area by Area
Gamla Stan 46

City 62

Blasieholmen &
Skeppsholmen 76

Djurgården 86

Malmarna & Further Afield

102 Late winter walk along the shores of Kungsholmen

Three Guided Walks 136

Survival Guide Phrase Book 231
Excursions from
Stockholm 142 Practical Stockholm
Information 190 Public Transport Map
Inside Back Cover
Getting to
Stockholm 198

Getting Around
Stockholm 200

Stockholm Street
Finder 206

General Index 219

Acknowledgments 229 A packet of traditional round

Swedish crispbread

The Royal Palace

The renovated Royal Chapel at the in Gamla Stan
Royal Palace

Travellers’
Needs
Where to Stay 156

Where to Eat and

Drink 162

Entertainment in
Stockholm 174

Outdoor Activities 180

Shopping in
Stockholm 182
INTRODUCING
STOCKHOLM

Great Days in Stockholm 8–11

Putting Stockholm on the Map 12–15
The History of Stockholm 16–27
Stockholm Through the Year 28–31
Stockholm at a Glance 32–43
8  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

GREAT DAYS IN STOCKHOLM

In Stockholm you are never far from water, the most of your visit, here are ideas for
and the city’s 14 islands offer a beguiling mix four themed days out, followed by itineraries
of culture and nature. Although beautiful based on length of stay on pages 10–11.
when seen from the water, this city is also a All the sights are accessible using public
pleasure to explore on foot, particularly transport. Prices include travel, food and
around Gamla Stan’s medieval lanes and the admission charges. Family prices are for
leafy island of Djurgårgen. To help you make two adults and two children.

Palaces and
Waterways
Two Adults allow at least
830 kr
•
Kungliga Slottet (the
Royal Palace)
•
The city from the water
•
Drottningholm Palace

Morning
Start the day with a touch of
royalty at Kungliga Slottet
(see pp50–53), the Royal Palace,
in Gamla Stan. Choose any
combination of tours – the
Royal Apartments, the Tre
Looking over the Nordiska museet towards the city centre Kronor Museet or Gustav III’s
Museum of Antiquities – which
to Kungsträdgården (see p66). will take up most of the
Museums Meander Around this park are plenty morning. Then, just before
of places for a lunch break. noon, step outside for the
Two Adults allow at least Changing of the Guard,
800 kr Afternoon complete with full horse
•
A sunken ship and Refreshed, head for Skepps- parade over Norrmalm Bridge.
Swedish history on holmen, passing the stately Afterwards, take a gentle walk
Djurgården Grand Hotel (see p81) and through the cobblestone streets
•
Lunch near the Nationalmuseum (see of Gamla Stan to Stortorget
Kungsträdgården park pp84–5). Once there, you can (see p56) for lunch at any one
choose between the Moderna of the cafés lining the square.
•
Skeppsholmen – museet (see pp82–3) and the The charming Chokladkoppen
“museum island” ArkDes (see p80). Finish with a is an excellent choice, popular
late “fika” (coffee break) in the with tourists and locals alike.
museum café, or try the During the winter holidays,
Morning restaurant with its view over one of the oldest Julmarknad
Start the day on the island of the water. (Christmas Markets) is held here.
Djurgården at the Vasamuseet
(see pp94–6). The impressive
17th-century warship Vasa is
worth a visit of at least 90
minutes, and try not to miss
the informative video. Next
door, the Nordiska museet
(see pp92–3) gives a glimpse
into Swedish life over the
centuries. Allow 2 hours. Leaving
the island over Djurgårdsbron
(see p90), turn left, and a
15-minute waterside walk
down Strandvägen brings you Drottningholm Palace by boat
View of Stockholm from the Fersen Terrace with the Palace Makalos, by Elias Martin
 G R E AT D AY S I N S TO C K H O L M  9

Afternoon variety of boutiques and cafés

After lunch, enjoy Stockholm are located here, with Folkunga-
from the water. An hour canal gatan itself leading towards
cruise to Drottningholm Palace Medborgarplatsen (see p133).
(see pp146–9), the residence Traditional Swedish lunch can
of the Swedish royal family, be had at an outdoor restaurant
provides a waterfront tour of on the square.
the city on the way to the
palace just outside of town. Afternoon
Be sure to visit the Chinese From Medborgarplatsen it is
Pavilion and the beautiful not far to Katarina Kyrka (see
summer gardens in the palace p130) and the characteristic
grounds. “Under the Bridges of 18th-century cottages of
Stockholm” is another popular old Södermalm. For a more
canal tour, which takes two contemporary view of Söder, the
hours and passes all of the stretch of Götgatan between
city’s major landmarks. Coffee Medborgarplatsen and Slussen Having fun at Skansen, an open-air
and cakes are available on has an eclectic mix of shops, museum on the island of Djurgården
board. For both tours, it is many selling Swedish design. The
worth booking in advance area east of here is Mosebacke located on the island of
during peak times (see p204). (see p130). Here you will find the Djurgården. Here you can
Södra Teatern (see p176) and a visit period houses preserved
public terrace, offering amazing and transported from all over
views of the city. A more Sweden, watch traditional glass
glamorous viewing point is the blowing, and walk through
restaurant at the top of Katarina- a typical Swedish town,
hissen (see p129), accessible complete with market and
from Slussen (see p128). post office. After such a busy
morning, take a well-deserved
break in one of the many cafés
A Full Family Day in the grounds of the park.

Family of 4 allow at least Afternoon

1,800 kr After lunch, make your way
•
A trip to the Skansen zoo to Gröna Lund (see p97), an
and open-air park amusement park where you
The busy Stortorget square in the heart of •
Amusements at can ride one of the roller
Gamla Stan Gröna Lund coasters, float through the
Tunnel of Love or relax on
A Walk from Nature
•
The world of Pippi the Ferris wheel. Alternatively,
Longstocking and a enter the world of celebrated
to Culture
theatre visit at Junibacken children’s author Astrid Lingren
Two Adults allow at least at Junibacken (see p90) to
300 kr explore her well-loved
•
The mountain park of Morning collection of books; little ones
Vita Bergen Start the day at the world’s can play in Pippi Longstocking’s
•
Shopping and eating in oldest open-air museum and house, Villekulla Cottage. It also
trendy SoFo zoo of Scandinavian wildlife, has one of Sweden’s leading
Skansen (see pp100–101), children’s theatres.
•
Old Södermalm and
Mosebacke

Morning
Begin on the island of Söder-
malm at Vita Bergen (see p132),
a beautiful mountain park. Here
you will find allotment-gardens,
worker’s houses from the early
18th century and the
monumental Sofia Kyrka (see
p132). Then head downhill and
into trendy “SoFo” (the area
south of Folkungagatan). A People enjoying picnics at Nytorget in “rustic chic” SoFo
10  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

3 Days in Stockholm

•
Shop for souvenirs
and handicrafts in
Västerlånggatan
•
View Moderna museet’s
interesting modern
art collection
•
Amble the quaint streets
of Södermalm, with its
old workers’ cottages
Night view of the Royal Palace

At noon, catch the Changing of Day 1

2 Days in Stockholm the Guard at the Royal Palace Morning Spend a few hours
(pp50–53), before visiting some at the Royal Palace (pp50–53)
•
Explore Gamla Stan’s of its 608 grand rooms. Head and Livrustkammaren (p54) in
historic buildings and west to tiny Riddarholmen, Gamla Stan (pp46–61), leaving
medieval cobbled streets home to Riddarholmskyrkan time for the Changing of the
•
Pay a visit to Sweden’s (p58), final resting place of the Guard at noon. Head west to
oldest museum, Swedish sovereigns. Riddarholmskyrkan (p58) to
Livrustkammaren view the ornate vaults of former
Afternoon Visit Stadshuset Swedish monarchs. Wander
•
Chill out in
(pp116–17), scene of the annual back east to Stortorget (p56),
Kungsträdgården,
Nobel Prize festivities, built in admiring the Baroque façades
the former royal
National Romantic style. Further of Storkyrkan (p55) and the
kitchen gardens
east, in City (pp62–75), go to the Hanseatic Tyska Kyrkan (pp56–7),
cultural hub of Kulturhuset then browse the handicraft
(p69) and enjoy one of its free shops in Västerlånggatan (p57).
Day 1 art exhibitions. Take a break in
Morning See the sights Kungsträdgården (p66), the Afternoon Head across the
in picturesque Gamla Stan former royal kitchen gardens, waters to City (pp62–75). Pay a
(pp46–61), starting with the 16th- then admire the Renaissance visit to Kulturhuset (p69) for an
century Tyska Kyrkan (pp56–7), façade of Kungliga Operan art exhibition and relax in the
with its spectacular ebony and (pp66–7) and the opulent park of Kungsträdgården (p66),
alabaster pulpit. A short walk up Grand Hôtel (p81) on the then stop for afternoon tea at
Slottsbacken leads to Stortorget waterfront, before settling in the Grand Hôtel (p81), enjoying
(p56), scene of the Stockholm at Berns (p83), a Stockholm views of Gamla Stan, Kungliga
Bloodbath in 1520. Admire the dining and drinking institution. Operan (pp66–7) and Stadshuset
Gothic and Baroque interior of (pp116–17). Later, experience
nearby Storkyrkan (p55), before Day 2 the thrilling rides at Gröna
heading to Livrustkammaren Morning Take a ferry to Lund’s (p97) amusement park.
(p54), Sweden’s oldest museum. Djurgården (pp86–101) and
spend a couple of hours at Day 2
Vasamuseet (pp94–6). Housing Morning Start the day at
the world’s only preserved 17th- Moderna museet (pp82–3).
century warship, this is one of Next, take a stroll around
the city’s must-see museums. the former naval base of
Weather permitting, take a Skeppsholmen (pp78–9) for a
picnic and have lunch alfresco look at the restored buildings
in one of the peninsula’s parks. and traditional wooden boats,
including af Chapman (p81),
Afternoon Visit Skansen now a trendy youth hostel.
(pp100–101), the world’s first
open-air museum, home to Afternoon Take a short ferry
150 historic buildings from ride across to Djurgården to
across Sweden. Here you can visit the open-air museum of
watch craftsmen demonstrate Skansen (pp100–101). Return by
traditional skills. Round off the ferry to Nybroplan for a drink at
day with family favourite Gröna Berns (p83) before taking in a
Bernt Notke’s statue of St George and the Lund (p97), Sweden’s oldest show at Dramaten (pp74–5) or
Dragon in Storkyrkan, Gamla Stan amusement park. Kungliga Operan (pp66–7).
 G R E AT D AY S I N S TO C K H O L M  11

Day 3 former glory after a fire. Return

Morning Explore Södermalm to Gamla Stan for an evening
(pp128–35), Stockholm’s charming drink in one of its cosy bars.
south. Leave from Slussen (p128)
and enjoy great views from the Day 3
top of the 38-m (125-ft) high Morning Take a ferry to
Katarinahissen (p129). Next, go Djurgården (pp86–101), visiting
up to quaint Mosebacke (p130); Vasamuseet (pp94–6) and the
visit the 17th-century Katarina adjacent Nordiska museet
Kyrka (p130), then continue to (pp92–3) for interesting insights
Fjällgatan (p131) and the old- into Swedish history and culture.
fashioned Söder Cottages
(p131). Climb up to Vita Bergen Afternoon Enjoy the historic
(p132) for more pleasant views Södermalm’s Katarina Kyrka, dating from buildings and laid-back
and 18th-century homesteads. the late 1600s atmosphere at Skansen (pp100–
Take a ferry from Fåfängan 101), a charming open-air
(p132) in the east. Day 2 museum. End the day at Gröna
Morning Admire the impressive Lund’s (p97) amusement park.
Afternoon Disembark at Stadshuset (pp116–17) before
Djurgården (pp86–101) and walking across to Riddarholmen, Day 4
spend the rest of the day in Gamla Stan (pp46–61). Visit Full Day Spend a day on the
visiting the unique Vasamuseet Riddarholmskyrkan (p58), with Stockholm Archipelago. There
(pp94–6), followed by Nordiska its ancient royal sarcophagi, and are some 30,000 islands here,
museet (pp92–3). Housed in a stop at Livrustkammaren (p54) but one must-see stop is
Renaissance-style building, this for 500 years of royal history. Sandhamn (p153). Take a tour
museum has a vast collection Catch the Changing of the boat along the Strömma Canal
of objects dating from the 16th Guard at the Royal Palace and soak up the idyllic seaside
century to the present day. (pp50–53) at noon, then atmosphere in historic
go on to Storkyrkan (p55). Sandhamn, returning to
Wander down shopping street Stockholm in the evening.
5 Days in Stockholm Västerlånggatan (p57) to view
Baroque and Renaissance-style Day 5
•
Explore the museums Tyska Kyrkan (pp56–7), Morning Visit the royal palace
of Djurgården reaching the southern end of of Drottningholm (pp146–9), a
•
Spend a day sailing Gamla Stan at Slussen (p128). UNESCO World Heritage Site on
around the Stockholm Lovön, in Lake Mälaren. Admire
Archipelago Afternoon Explore quaint and the beautiful rooms, stroll in the
trendy Södermalm (pp128–35), Baroque Garden and pay a visit
•
Visit Drottningholm, a
starting with Katarinahissen to the Chinese Pavilion.
UNESCO World Heritage
(p129) for pleasant views over
Site on the island of Lovön
the city. Follow the picturesque Afternoon Explore
streets to Fåfängan (p132), Hagaparken (pp124–5), the
returning via mountainous Vita mid-18th-century royal park
Day 1 Bergen (p132) and Fjällgatan north of Stockholm. Take a
Morning Start the day with (p131), with its traditional look at Gustav III’s castle ruin
a visit to the art galleries in buildings, and Stigbergsgatan, and the 18th-century Chinese
Kulturhuset (p69). Pass by home of the Söder Cottages Pagoda, and set time aside for
Kungliga Operan’s (pp66–7) (p131). Be sure to stop at Katarina Fjärils- & Fågelhuset, with their
ornate façade, then relax in Kyrka (p130), now restored to its exotic birds and butterflies.
Kungsträdgården (p66) and
take a look at the Art Deco
Dramaten (pp74–5) theatre.

Afternoon Walk to Blasieholmen,

past the Grand Hôtel (p81),
and stop off to explore the
modern art collection at
Moderna museet (pp82–3),
before visiting Skeppsholmen
(pp78–9), a former naval base
with traditional wooden boats.
Amble back for evening drinks
at Berns (p83), one of the city’s
best nightspots. Beautiful autumn colours, Hagaparken
 12  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Putting Stockholm on the Map

Sweden is Europe’s fourth largest country, covering 486,661 sq km
(187,900 sq miles). Its southern-most point is on the same latitude as
Edinburgh; its northern extremity is 280 km (174 miles) north of the Gulf of
Arctic Circle. Sweden borders Norway in the west and Finland in the east.
Since 2000 it has been connected to Denmark in the south via a bridge
over the Öresund strait. The capital, Stockholm, is in the south-east. It
has around one million inhabitants. The city is built on islands, which
Gävle
separate the Baltic Sea from Lake Mälaren (see pp42–3).

NORWAY Torsby Grisslehamn

Oslo
Drammen SWEDEN See inset map below
Kapellskär

Karlstad
Moss
Örebro
Sandefjord STOCKHOLM
Fredrikstad

Larvik Strömstad Nynäshamn

Vänern Mariestad
Mellerud
Norrköping

Linköping
Skagerrak Vättern
Trollhättan
Kristiansand,
Newcastle
Borås Västervik
Jönköping Visby
Gothenburg

Hirtshals
Gotland
Frederikshavn Oskarshamn

Aalborg Varberg
Växjö
Ljungby Öland
Halmstad Kalmar

Grenå
Karlskrona Baltic
Aarhus Helsingborg

DENMARK Helsingör

Copenhagen
Simrishamn
Malmö
Ystad
Odense
Trelleborg

Bornholm
Rönne

Rödby Gdynia
Gedser Sassnitz
Kiel Gdansk
Slupsk
Puttgarden Stralsund

Greifswald Koszalin
Rostock
Travemünde
GERMANY Swinoujscie POLAND
Hamburg Nowogard

For map symbols see back flap

 PUTTING STOCKHOLM ON THE MAP  13

Northern Europe
Pori

FINLAND
Bothnia
Rauma FINLAND
SWEDEN

NORWAY
RUSSIA
Turku/åbo Stockholm ESTONIA

LATVIA
North
Eckerö Sea
DENMARK
Åland LITHUANIA
RUSS. FED.
Mariehamn IRELAND
NETHERLANDS
BELARUS
UNITED POLAND
KINGDOM GERMANY
Helsinki, BELGIUM
CZECH
St Petersburg, LUXEMBOURG REPUBLIC UKRAINE
Tallinn SLOVAKIA

AUSTRIA HUNGARY MOLDOVA

SWITZ.
Atlantic FRANCE SLOV.
Ocean CROATIA ROMANIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZ.
SPAIN ITALY

Hiiumaa Lake
Island
ESTONIA Peisi

Saaremaa Parnu
Island Tartu

Valmiera
Cape Kolka
Smiltene

Ventspils Key
Sigulda
Motorway
Riga
Major road
Jelgavas Railway
LATVIA
National border

Liepāja
Joniškis 0 kilometres 100
LITHUANIA 0 miles 50
Telšiai Šiauliai
Sea Panevėžys
Palanga

Klaipėda
Uppsala
Sala
Norrtälje

Sigtuna Arlanda
Enköping
Västerås
S. Ljusterö
(RUSSIA) Vaxholm
Kaliningrad Strängnäs Värmdö-
landet
Eskilstuna STOCKHOLM
Mariefred Handen
Södertäije See next
Elblag page
Flen
Baltic Sea
Nynäshamn
Katrineholm 0 kilometres 50
Trosa
0 miles 30
Olsztynek
Greater Stockholm and Surroundings
 14  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM
Almunge

Stockholm and Surroundings

Stockholm’s first buildings were erected on a small island
in the narrow Strömmen channel between the Baltic and
Lake Mälaren. When the town started to expand, buildings
sprang up on the “Malms”, the areas on either side of
Husby
Strömmen. Today Stockholm stretches over 14 islands, with
high-rise suburbs sprawling almost all the way out to the
royal country palaces. The network of underground and
suburban trains, buses and ferry services offers easy
transport to sights beyond the city centre (see pp142–53).

Arlanda C
Enköping Arlanda
Enköping

Sigtuna Sigtuna
Håbo

Steninge
Rosersberg
Bålsta
Vallen-
Tuna
Lillkyrka
Bro Upplands Väsby
Veckholm
Bro Upplands-
Väsby
Upplands-bro
Täby Kyrkby

Kungsängen
Kallhäll Täby
Sollentuna
Mälaren
Järfälla Dande-
Munsö Ryd
Barkarby
Lidingö
Hässelby Sundyberg
Yetterselö Adelsö See inset map above
Sundbyberg
Färingsö Stockholm C
Lovön
Birka Stenhamra
Drottningholm
STOCKHOLM
Björkö
Ekerö Hägersten
Ekerö Årstaberg

Mariefred Aska Ekeby

Botkyrka Huddinge
Huddinge

Salem Flemingsberg
Tumba
Tumba

Nykvarn
Nykvarn Södertälje

Södertälje Syd Jordbro

Västerhaninge
Järna

Järna

For keys to symbols see back flap

 PUTTING STOCKHOLM ON THE MAP  15

Stockholm
Solna Hersby
Ranas Sundbyberg Norra

E4
Solna Djurgården 22
7
Bromma 7
Skedviken
Huvudsta 22

275
Rimbo Karlberg Ladugårds-

279
gärdet
Riksby
Stockholm C
STOCKHOLM
1
26
Hornstull
Stockholm
222

E4
Södra

-E
Nacka

20
Midsommar-
Karsta kransen Årstaberg
75 Johanneshov

Segeltorp Långbro Älvsjö

6 Enskede
22

27 Bandhagen
0 kilometres 5 1

229 229
Karby 0 miles 3
Skarpnäcks

N. Ljusterö
Österåker

Åkersberga
S. Ljusterö
Svinninge
Resaro Möja

Grinda Möja
Vaxholm
Bogesunds-
landet

Vindö
Värmdö
Ormingelandet
Värmdö-
Gustavsberg Baltic Sea
landet Djurö
Nacka
Stavsnäs Sandhamn

Brunn Runmarö
Sandön
Saltsjöbaden
Ingarö

Tyresö
Skogås
Brevik
Nämndö

Haninge Key
Motorway
Handen
Major road
Minor road
Dalarö
Railway
Greater Stockholm

Gålö 0 kilometres 10

0 miles 10
Ornö
Mysingen
 INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM  17

THE HISTORY
OF STOCKHOLM
Legends and theories about Stockholm’s origins have been many and varied,
and sometimes even contradictory. But they have a common factor – control
over the waterways. The generally accepted founder of Stockholm is the
13th-century regent Birger Jarl, who, according to the medieval Erik’s Chronicle,
wanted to build a fortress to protect Lake Mälaren from marauding pirates.

A thousand years ago the waters around biggest place in the kingdom. But it
the island now known as Gamla Stan were was not the capital city, because the
busy with warships, trading vessels and king was always on the move. Birger
pirate ships using the narrow channel Jarl’s son, King Magnus Ladulås, did not
between the Baltic and Lake Mälaren. regard Stockholm as his capital either.
In those days boat was the quickest For a long time the city’s importance
and safest method of travel. lay in its role as a trading centre. It
In the first literary mention of what became an important port for the
was to become Stockholm, the Icelandic German-dominated Hanseatic League,
poet and saga writer Snorre Sturlasson which controlled Swedish overseas
(1179–1241) described a barrier of piles trade from the 13th century until the
across a waterway, which he named late 17th century.
Stock-sundet, the present Norrström. The frontiers of the Nordic countries
The island formed by this piling became remained undefined for some time, but
known as Stockholm. Excavations in the with a background of similar languages
late 1970s revealed the remains of a large and cultures, Sweden, Norway and
number of piles in the water dating from Denmark signed the Kalmar Union in
the 11th century. Snorre also mentioned 1397. Finland at that time was still part
a 12th-century castle tower, which would of Sweden. The era of union became
have predated Birger Jarl’s fortress, the one of conflict and violence. At the
predecessor of the present Royal Palace. battle of Brunkeberg in Stockholm in
Documents show that Stockholm was 1471 the Danish king tried to take control
already a city in 1252, four years after of Sweden, but was defeated by the
Birger Jarl became regent. Many towns regent Sten Sture. A new Danish
in Sweden started to expand in the campaign in 1520 culminated in the
early 13th century. Stockholm was a late notorious Stockholm Bloodbath at
starter but soon caught up. A document Stortorget (see p56), when more than
from 1289 describes Stockholm as the 80 Swedish noblemen were executed.

1364 Albrecht of
c.1250 Birger Jarl Mecklenburg chosen 1520 Swedish
1008 Olof Skötkonung founds Stockholm as Sweden’s King noblemen
converts to Christianity executed in
and is baptized in Birger Jarl, 1350 Code of 1397 Kalmar
Stockholm
Västergötland Stockholm’s Magnus Eriksson re- Union links the Bloodbath
founder places provincial laws Nordic countries
1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500

1275 Magnus Ladulås chosen 1280 Ordi- 1471 Sten Sture

800–975 Vikings
as Sweden’s king at Mora nances of Alsnö 1349–50 the Elder defeats
settle and trade at
give nobility Plague the Danish King
Birka (see p150)
1101 Three Kings’ Meeting freedom from ravages Kristian at
fixes Scandinavian frontiers taxation Sweden Brunkeberg

The Parhelion Painting in Storkyrkan (Stockholm’s cathedral), depicting a remarkable light phenomenon seen in 1535
 18  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

The newly chosen king, Gustav Vasa, making his ceremonial entry into Stockholm, Midsummer Day 1523

The Vasa Era Descendants of Gustav Vasa oversaw the rise

One of those who managed to avoid of Sweden into one of Europe’s great powers.
execution in the Stockholm Bloodbath was During the reign of Gustav’s son Erik XIV,
the young nobleman Gustav Eriksson. At the there were wars against Denmark, Lübeck
end of 1520 Gustav organized an army to and Poland. His brothers dethroned him,
oust the Danish King Kristian from Sweden. and he died in prison, probably of a pea soup
Gustav was successful and on 6 June 1523 – poisoned by his brother Johan III. During
later to become Sweden’s National Day – he the reign of Karl IX, the third son, Sweden
was named king with the title Gustav Vasa. waged war against Denmark and Russia.
When Gustav Vasa took the throne he
discovered a nation in financial Gustav II Adolf and Kristina
crisis. He called on Parliament to When the next king, Gustav II Adolf,
pass a controversial law transferring came to power in 1611, Sweden
the property of the Church to the was involved in wars against
State, which then became the Russia, Poland and Denmark.
country’s most important source of Under his rule Sweden steadily
economic power. Another increased its influence over the
important result of this policy was Baltic region. Stockholm started to
the gradual separation from develop into the country’s political
Catholicism and the adoption of and administrative centre. In 1630
the Lutheran State Church. Portrait of Erik XIV (1561) Gustav II Adolf, together with his
During his reign Gustav Vasa influential chancellor Axel
implemented tough economic policies in Oxenstierna, decided to intervene in the
order to concentrate central power in Thirty Years’ War on the side of the
Stockholm. This effective dictatorship also Protestants, using religious motives as a
resulted in the Swedish Parliament’s decision pretext. Sweden had some notable military
in 1544 to make the monarchy hereditary. successes during the war, but paid a heavy

1523 Gustav Vasa 1542 Nils Dacke 1560 Gustav 1568 Erik XIV imprisoned by 1611 Gustav II
chosen as king in and supporters Vasa dies his brothers at Gripsholms Slott Adolf comes
Strängnäs and stage a peasant to power
marches into revolt in Småland 1577 Erik XIV dies,
Vasa dynasty’s
Stockholm coat of arms probably poisoned

1525 1550 1575 1600

1527 Reformation: 1561 Eric XIV is crowned 1570 Nordic Seven
1544 Hereditary
Parliament confiscates king, and his brothers’ Years’ War ends
monarchy 1612 Axel
Church property powers are curbed
established for 1587 Johan III’s son Oxenstierna
Gustav Vasa’s male 1569 Johan III Sigismund chosen named State
descendants crowned in Stockholm as king of Poland Chancellor
 THE HISTORY OF STOCKHOLM  19

price for winning the bloody battle at Lützen

in 1632, as the king was killed in action.
Gustav II Adolf’s only child, Kristina, came
to the throne at the age of six. During her
reign (1633–54), life at the court was
influenced by the world of science and
philosophy. Kristina corresponded with
leading academics and invited the French
philosopher René Descartes, who died in
Stockholm in 1650 only a few months after Karl XII with the widowed queen on his arm leaving the burning
he had arrived. The Tre Kronor castle Tre Kronor fortress
became the permanent royal residence.
Kristina’s reluctance to marry resulted in her and divided the land more evenly between
cousin, Karl Gustav, becoming Crown the crown, nobility and peasants.
Prince. Kristina abdicated and left for Rome, While the body of Karl XI lay in state at
where she converted to Catholicism. Tre Kronor in 1697 a fire broke out,
destroying most of the building. The new
monarch was the teenage Karl XII (1697–
1718). He faced mammoth problems when
Denmark, Poland and Russia formed an
alliance in 1700 with the aim of crushing the
power of Sweden. Karl XII set off to battle.
Denmark and Poland were soon forced
to plead for peace, but Russia resisted.
A bold push towards Moscow was
unsuccessful, and the Swedish army suffered
a devastating defeat at Poltava in 1709.
Queen Kristina, fascinated by science and corresponding with This marked the beginning of the end
leading scientists for Sweden as a great power.
Karl XII, the most controversial Swedish
The Carolian Era monarch, returned to Sweden in 1715
Karl X Gustav (1654–60) was the first of after an absence of 15 years. His plans to
three Karls to reign. At the height of regain Sweden’s position of dominance
Sweden’s era as a great power, and in one never came to pass, and he was killed in
of the most audacious episodes in the Norway in 1718.
history of war, he conquered Denmark by By now, Sweden was in crisis. Crop
leading his army across the frozen waters of failures and epidemics had annihilated
the Great Belt (see p21). Karl XI (1660–97) one-third of Stockholm’s population,
secured the southern Swedish provinces, and the state’s finances were drained.

1617 Death penalty introduced for

conversion to Catholicism 1654 Kristina abdicates and 1697 Tre Kronor castle destroyed by
Karl X Gustav is crowned king fire; 15-year-old Karl XII crowned
1632 Gustav II 1633 Six-year-old
Adolf killed at Kristina becomes 1709 Swedish army defeated
1655 Kristina converts to Catholicism
battle of Lützen queen; guardians rule by Peter the Great at Poltava
and is ceremonially greeted in Rome
1625 1650 1675 1700
1648 Peace of
1618 Thirty 1658 Swedish army
Westphalia gives
Years’ War starts crosses the Great
Sweden new
in Germany Belt and acquires 1680 Karl XI starts the era of
territories
new territory under Carolian autocracy and limits
Gustav II Adolf Peace of Roskilde powers of the nobility 1718 Karl XII dies
20  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Sweden’s Era as a Great Power

For more than a century (1611–1721) Sweden was the
dominant power in northern Europe, and the Baltic was
effectively a Swedish inland sea. The country was at its most
powerful after the Peace of Roskilde in 1658, when Sweden
acquired seven new provinces from Denmark and Norway.
Outside today’s frontiers the Swedish Empire covered the
whole of Finland, large parts of the Baltic, and important Swedish Empire
areas of northern Germany. Over 111 years as a great power Sweden’s empire after the
Peace of Roskilde, 1658
Sweden spent 72 of them at war, with many treasures
brought back to the new palaces. It was also an era of
cultural development and efficient government.

The Tre Kronor Castle

Built as a defensive tower in the 1180s, the Tre Kronor castle was the
seat of Swedish monarchs from the 1520s and became the
administrative centre of the Swedish Empire. It was named after the
three crowns on the spire, which burned down in 1697.

The columns of troops ride

out over the shifting ice
towards Danish Lolland.

The Thirty Years’ War

A major European war raged between 1618–48, largely on
German soil. Sweden entered the war in 1631 in an alliance
with France. Gustav II Adolf was a fine military leader and had
modernized the Swedish army, which immediately had major
successes at the battles of Breitenfeld (1631) and Lützen (1632),
where the king, however, was killed. Later, the Swedes pressed
into southern
Germany and also
captured and
plundered Prague
(1648). Some rich
cultural treasures
were brought back to
Sweden from the war.
In 1648 the Peace of
Westphalia gave
Sweden several Stockholm in 1640
important posses- The city’s transformation from a small
The death of Gustav II Adolf at the sions in northern medieval town into a capital city can
Battle of Lützen in 1632 Germany. be seen in the network of straight
streets, similar to the present layout.
 THE HISTORY OF STOCKHOLM  21

Karl XI’s Triumphs

The roof painting in Karl
XI’s gallery at the Royal
Palace (1693) by the
French artist Jacques
Foucquet shows in
allegoric form the king’s
victories at Halmstad,
Lund and Landskrona.

King Karl X Gustav

Count Carl Gustaf Wrangel himself leads the Swedish Powerful Nobility
(see p58). army of 17,000 men. The nobility were very influential
in the Empire era, and many
successful soldiers were ennobled.
The Banér family coat of arms
from 1651 is adorned by three
helmets and barons’ crowns.

Bondeska Palatset
One of the leading buildings of the era
(1662–73), this palace was designed
by Tessin the Elder and Jean de la
Vallée for the State Treasurer Gustav
Bonde (see p60).

Crossing the Great Belt

When Denmark declared war on Sweden in autumn
1657, the Swedish army was in Poland. Marching west,
Karl X Gustav captured the Danish mainland, but
without the navy, he could not continue to Copenhagen.
However, unusually severe weather froze the sea, making
it possible for the soldiers to cross the ice of the Great Belt,
and the Danes had to surrender.

Karl XII’s
Pocket Watch
The warrior king’s
watchcase dates from
1700. It shows the Karl XII’s Last Journey
state coat of arms, as After being hit by a fatal bullet at Fred-
well as those of the rikshald in Norway (1718), the king’s body
49 provinces that was taken first to Swedish territory then
belonged to Sweden on to Uddevalla for embalming. Painting
at that time. by Gustav Cederström (1878).
 22  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

guards, he declared his intention to mount a

bloodless coup d’état. The guards and other
military units in Stockholm swore allegiance
to the king, who tied a white handkerchief
round his arm as a badge and rode out into
the city to be acclaimed by his people.
Absolute power had been restored.
Gustav III was influenced by the Age of
Enlightenment and by French culture,
which had a great effect on Swedish
cultural life (see pp24–5). But over the years
opposition grew to the king’s absolute
powers, largely because of his costly war
against Russia. In 1792 he was murdered by
Gustav III (r. 1771–92) with the white armband he wore when a nobleman, Captain Anckarström, during a
mounting his coup d’état in 1772 masked ball at the Opera House (see p25).
Gustav III was succeeded by his son,
The Age of Liberty and the Gustav IV Adolf. During his reign Sweden
Gustavian Era was dragged into the Napoleonic wars.
A new constitution came into force in 1719, After a war against Russia in 1808–9,
transferring power from the monarch to Sweden lost its sovereignty over Finland,
parliament. As a result, Sweden developed a which at the time accounted for one-third
system of parliamentary democracy similar to of Swedish territory. The king abdicated
that of Britain in the early 18th century. and left Stockholm to flee the country.
The “Age of Liberty” coincided with the
Enlightenment, with dramatic advances in The Era of Karl Johan and
culture, science and industry. The botanist Bourgeois Liberalism
Carl von Linné became one of the most By the early 19th century the absolute
famous Swedes of his time. Another was the powers of the monarch had been removed
scientist, philosopher and author Emanuel
Swedenborg. The production of textiles
expanded in Stockholm, and Sweden’s first
hospital was constructed on Kungsholmen.
Changes in the balance of power around
1770 gave the new king, Gustav III, an
opportunity to strike in an attempt to regain
his monarchical powers. On 19 August 1772
Gustav accompanied the guards’ parade to Napoleon’s former marshal, Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, as King Karl
the Royal Palace, where, in front of his life- XIV Johan surrounded by his family

1809 Sweden loses

1719 New 1738 Parliamentary 1754 The 1790 Swedish defeat over Finland, and Gustav
constitution transfers power is established in Royal family Russia at Battle of Svenskund IV Adolf abdicates
power from the king the Age of Liberty as the moves into
to Parliament “Hat” party wins elections Royal Palace 1780s Immigrants are given 1792 Gustav III
wide religious freedom murdered
1720 1740 1760 1780 1800

1721 Swedish defeat in 1741 Carl von Linné 1772 Gustav III 1786 Swedish
the Great Northern War appointed professor crowned and Academy founded
results in territorial losses at Uppsala mounts coup d’état, 1778 National costume
and the end of the giving the king decreed. Death penalty
country’s golden age Carl von Linné (1707–78) absolute power removed for some crimes
 THE HISTORY OF STOCKHOLM  23

significantly, Denmark had to hand over

Norway to Sweden. The Norwegians
were reluctant to unite with Sweden,
but a union between the two countries
was agreed – this lasted from 1814 to
1905. A long era of peace began,
and with it came a dramatic increase in
the country’s population, which grew
Newspaper readers outside the Aftonbladet office in 1841 by 1 million to 3.5 million by 1850.
Many Swedes were driven into poverty,
for all time, and the privileges of the because there was not enough work to go
aristocracy were undermined even more round. Mass emigration followed. From the
in 1809 with a new constitution that 1850s to the 1930s about 1.5 million people
divided power between the king, the left Sweden. Most of the emigrants travelled
government and parliament. to North America in search of a better life.
With a new class structure and the effect
of the French Revolution, a new middle Folk Movements and Industrialization
class emerged with aspirations of being As Sweden was transformed from an
more influential. One of the best-known agricultural society into an industrialized
newspapers founded around this time was country, the problems posed by the
the liberal mouthpiece, Aftonbladet. population surplus were gradually tackled.
Difficulties in finding a An industrial revolution started
suitable new monarch led around 1850, gathering
eventually to the choice of momentum in the late 19th
one of Napoleon’s marshals, century, and the textile, timber
Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who and iron industries provided the
took on the more authentic main sources of employment.
Swedish name of Karl Johan. In 1806 the nation’s first steam-
Founder of the present royal driven mill, Eldkvarn, was built
dynasty, Karl XIV Johan on the site of the present-day
continued to speak French Stockholm’s Eldkvarn mill, destroyed City Hall in Stockholm. It
and never fully learned the by fire in 1878 continued production until
Swedish language. His French destroyed by fire in 1878.
wife, Queen Desideria, found Stockholm a Folk movements sprang up in the 19th
cultural backwater compared with Paris. century, and these still play an important role
In 1813 a Swedish army with Karl Johan in Swedish life. A temperance movement
at its head became involved in a campaign emerged against a background of alcohol
against Napoleon. The Battle of Leipzig abuse – in the 1820s annual consumption
ended in defeat for France, but, more of spirits was 46 litres (80 pints) per person.

1869 Emigration to North America 1908 Royal

1876 L M Ericsson
1810 Parliament chooses increases due to crop failures Dramatic
starts manufacture Theatre
Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte of telephones
as Crown Prince 1842 Primary schools established opens
by decree in every parish
August Strindberg
1820 1840 1860 1880 1900

1818 Karl XIV Johan is crowned 1859 Sweden’s first 1879 August Strindberg’s novel
King of Sweden and Norway railway opens The Red Room is published

1814 Sweden gains Norway 1850 Sweden has 3.5 million 1905 Parliament dissolves
in peace treaty with Denmark population, 93,000 living in Stockholm union with Norway
24  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

The Era of Gustav III

Gustav III (1771–92) is one of the most colourful figures in
Swedish history. The king’s great interest in art, literature and
the theatre made the late 18th century a golden age for
Swedish culture, and several prestigious academies were
founded at this time. After a bloodless revolution in 1772
Gustav III ruled with absolute power and initiated a wide-
The Swedish Academy
ranging programme of reform. But his attacks on the The academy was founded by
privileges of the nobility and his adventurous and costly Gustav III in 1786 to preserve the
foreign policy made him powerful enemies. In 1792 he was Swedish language. Members
murdered during a masked ball at Stockholm’s Opera House. received a token depicting the
king’s head at every meeting.

A courtier entertains
by reading aloud.

Gustav III’s Coronation, 1772

The coronation of the all-powerful monarch in
Stockholm’s cathedral was a magnificent ceremony,
portrayed here by C G Pilo (1782). Every detail was
overseen by Gustav himself, who used his flair for
the dramatic in politics as well.

Gustav III studies

architectural designs.

Court Life at Drottningholm

Hilleström’s painting (1779) gives an insight into
court life at Drottningholm, where the king resided
between June and November. In the present-day
Blue Salon, Gustav III and Queen Sofia Magdalena
socialized with their inner circle. Behaviour was
modelled on the French court, and etiquette was
even stricter at Drottningholm than at Versailles.

Life in the Inns

The city abounded
The Battle of Svenskund with inns, frequently
Gustav III was not known as a successful visited by the 70,000
warrior king, but in 1790 he led the Swedish inhabitants. J T
fleet to its greatest victory ever, when it Sergel’s sketch
defeated Russia in a major maritime battle in shows a convivial
the Gulf of Finland. dinner party.
 THE HISTORY OF STOCKHOLM  25

Murder at the Masked Ball

In 1792 Gustav III fell victim to a conspiracy
at the Opera House. He was surrounded
by masked men and shot by Captain
Anckarström on the crowded stage. He
died of his wounds 14 days later.

Gustav III’s Mask and Cocked Hat

Despite his mask, Gustav III was easy to recognize at the
Opera House since he was wearing the badges of two
orders of chivalry. The drama intrigued the whole of
Europe and inspired Verdi’s opera Un Ballo in Maschera.

Flogging of the King’s Murderer

Among the conspirators, only Anckarström was
condemned to death. Before he was taken to his
execution in Södermalm, he was flogged on three
successive days on the square in front of Riddarhuset.

Queen Sofia
Magdalena does
her needlework.

Bust of Catherine the Great

of Russia, the king’s cousin

Gustavian Style
The mid-18th century saw the emergence of Neo-Classicism,
with the focus on antiquities and Greek and Roman ideals.
Gustav III embraced this trend with
great enthusiasm and supported the
country’s talented artists and authors.
He established his own Museum of
Antiquities (see pp52–3) with marble
sculptures that he brought home from
Italy. In handicrafts, the sweeping lines
of Rococo elegance were replaced by
the stricter forms of what has become Swedish Court Costume
known as Gustavian Style. Rooms at In 1778 Gustav III introduced a
the Royal Palace were renovated with costume based on French lines to
Chair designed in the decoration and furnishings adapted restrain fashion excesses. This is the
Gustavian Style to suit this style. male court costume for daily wear.
 26  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Universal Suffrage to accept a government that contained

Sweden’s population reached 5 million around republican-friendly Social Democrats,
1900 despite mass emigration to America. including the future prime minister, Hjalmar
Many people moved to the towns to work Branting (1860–1925). By then it was
in industry, and by the early 20th century parliament, not the king, that decided what
Stockholm’s population was about 300,000, sort of government Sweden should have.
a fourfold increase since the year 1800.
Increasing social awareness and The Growth of
the rise of the Social Democrat the Welfare State
and Liberal parties in the early In 1936 the Social Democrats and
20th century gave impetus to the Farmers’ Party formed a coalition
demands for universal suffrage. that developed what was to
Radical authors such as August become known as the welfare
Strindberg became involved. state. The Social Democrat prime
There ensued a political battle, minister, Per Albin Hansson (1885–
which was not resolved until 1921, 1946), defined the welfare state
when universal suffrage was Branting and Gustav V in as a socially conscious society
introduced for both sexes. conversation, 1909 with financial security for all.
Another question which was hotly Reforms introduced under this
debated in the 19th century was the role of policy included unemployment benefit,
the king and the extent of his powers. In his paid holidays and childcare. As a result,
“courtyard speech” at the Royal Palace in poverty in Sweden virtually disappeared
1914 King Gustav V called for military rearma- during the 1930s and 1940s.
ment. This led to a constitutional crisis and The right of everyone to good housing
the resignation of the Liberal government. was also part of welfare state policy. Under
After the 1917 election the king was forced the principle of “work-home-centre”, a new
Stockholm suburb, Vällingby, was planned
and built in the early 1950s. The idea was to
transform the dormitory suburbs into thriving
communities where people would both
live and work. The concept was unsuccessful.
It soon became apparent that the people who
lived there still worked somewhere else, and
vice versa. The great shortage of housing in
the 1960s led to the “million” programme,
which involved the building of a million
homes in an extremely short time. These areas
Calls for democratic reforms in June 1917 led to riots like this soon became known as the “new slums”
one outside the parliament building in Stockholm despite high standards of construction.

1914 Gustav V gives 1932 Suicide of 1940 Sweden– 1955 1958 Women can be
his “courtyard speech”. industrial magnate German Obligatory ordained as priests
Ivar Kreuger is agreement on national health
followed by transit of German insurance 1967 Right-hand
1921 Universal suffrage driving introduced
stockmarket crash military personnel
for men and women
1920 1940 1960

1939 Sweden has 1950 First 1964 Art exhibition 1973 Gustav VI
Selma 1930 Rise of
Lagerlöf, Functionalist style coalition govern- public TV Moderna Museet shows Adolf dies and
winner of the in architecture, ment and broadcast in works by Andy Warhol, is succeeded
Nobel Prize stimulated by the declares neutrality Sweden Roy Lichtenstein and by grandson,
for Literature Stockholm Exhibition in World War II Claes Oldenburg Carl XVI Gustaf
 THE HISTORY OF STOCKHOLM  27

The War Years Prime minister Olof Palme (1927–

86), probably the best-known
Sweden declared its neutrality during both World War I and II.
Its policy of continuing to trade with nations involved in the Swedish politician abroad, was
conflict during World War I provoked deeply involved in questions of
a number of countries into imposing
a trade blockade on Sweden. The democracy and disarmament, as
situation became so serious that well as the problems of the Third
hunger riots broke out in some towns. World. He was renowned for
World War II produced an even
more difficult balancing exercise for condemning undemocratic acts
Swedish neutrality, largely because by dictators. Palme’s assassination
its Nordic neighbours were at war.
on the streets of Stockholm in
With a combination of luck and
skill, Sweden remained outside the 1986 sent a shock wave across
Neutrality stamp issued conflict, but the concessions it had the world, but strangely the
in 1942 to make were strongly criticized
both nationally and internationally. murder has still not been solved.
Important changes took
place during the closing decades
The Post-War Era of the 20th century. These included a new
Although the Social Democrats dominated constitution in 1974, which removed the
government from the 1930s to the 1970s monarch’s political
the socialist and non-socialist power blocs powers. In 1995
in Swedish politics have remained fairly Sweden joined the
evenly matched since World War II. European Union,
The policy of non-alignment has not after a referendum
proved an obstacle to Swedish involvement approved entry by
on the international scene, including the only the narrowest
United Nations. The country has offered of majorities.
asylum to hundreds of thousands of The start of the
refugees from wars and political oppression. new millennium Sveavägen, the site of
marked a change in Palme’s murder, 1986
the role of the church
in Sweden, which severed its connections
with the state after more than 400 years.
The last decade has seen a significant
number of jobs created in high technology
companies, and the almost total absence
of heavy industry has made Stockholm
one of the world’s cleanest cities. In 2010,
it was granted the European Green Capital
The centre of Vällingby, which attracted attention among city Award by the EU Commission, making
planners worldwide in the 1950s Stockholm Europe’s first green capital.

1974 The 2010 Crown Princess Victoria

1980 New constitu- 2000 Öresund bridge
monarch marries Daniel Westling
tion gives women opens between
loses all the right of succes- Denmark and Sweden 2012 Princess Estelle born
political sion to the throne to Crown Princess Victoria
Crown Princess Victoria
powers and Prince Daniel

1980 2000 2020

1986 Prime minister Olof 1995 Sweden joins 2007 Legendary film maker
Palme murdered in Stockholm European Union Ingmar Bergman dies
1974 ABBA pop group wins
2000 Swedish Church 2003 Foreign minister Anna
Eurovision Song Contest
separated from the State Lindh murdered in Stockholm
28  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

STOCKHOLM THROUGH
THE YEAR
Stockholm’s heart never misses a beat despite outdoor, feature performers from around
the vagaries of the climate. Although summer the world. Sweden’s national festivals are
is a glorious time to visit the capital, the city celebrated in the traditional way in
shimmering in ice and snow is also an Stockholm and are always popular attractions
amazing experience, and numerous popular for both locals and visitors alike. The capital’s
events take place throughout the year. proximity to the surrounding countryside
Stockholm’s countless sporting fixtures and water provides an extensive range of
attract top-class international stars. Its many opportunities for all kinds of outdoor
concerts, both pop and classical, indoor and activities throughout the year.

Garden Fair (Mar). Everything

Spring for the gardener is on show at
As in all the Nordic countries, Stockholm International Fairs
people long for spring after in Älvsjö.
the dark days of winter, and it
has a big impact on life in the April
capital. Sun-lovers sit on the Stockholm Art Week (early Apr).
steps of Konserthuset (Concert A week of art events, exhibitions
Hall) and Kungliga Dramatiska and fairs. Many of the city’s art
Teatern (Royal Dramatic galleries, museums and exhibition
Theatre); people work on their venues arrange special events
boats; football competes with and programmes.
ice hockey for attention; Swedish Football Cham-
spring flowers come into pionship (last weekend in Apr).
bud in Kungsträdgården; and Series starts at Råsunda and
the traditional semla cream Söder stadiums.
buns go on sale to break the Gröna Lund (end of Apr).
Lenten fast. Djurgården’s amusement Walpurgis Night bonfire at Evert Taubes
park, the oldest in the country, Terrass, Riddarholmen
March opens for its 130-day season.
Stockholm International Exciting rides and attractions Slottet (Royal Palace) with a
Boat Show (early Mar). The include roller coasters and a military parade, and children
spring’s major boat exhibition free-fall tower. There are also present flowers and gifts.
at Stockholm International stages hosting music and
Fairs in Älvsjö. other shows, and there’s a wide May
Outdoors Fair (Mar). Held at range of places to eat. Gröna Round Lidingö Race (2nd Sat
Stockholm International Fairs in Lund’s beautiful gardens include in May). This long-distance
Älvsjö, this exhibition focuses 30,000 pansies and 25,000 sailing race attracts hundreds of
on camping, tourism and summer flowers. boats of all shapes and sizes.
outdoor equipment. Stockholm Culture Night Archipelago Fair (late May).
(end of Apr). Stockholm’s main This is the fair for all those
cultural institutions come looking to sell, purchase or
together to organize a series exchange their leisure boats.
of free events throughout Elite Race (last weekend in May).
the city, including concerts, Trotting competition at Solvalla
parties and guided tours. Many with top horses from all over
museums, galleries and libraries the world.
stay open until midnight. Kungsträdgården (late May).
Walpurgis Night at Skansen The programme of summer
(30 Apr). Traditional celebrations entertainment in the park
to welcome the arrival of spring starts on the main stage.
with massed standard bearers, Gärdet Race (late May).
folk dancing, torchlight Over 500 vintage cars take part
procession, student choirs, in this race around the city.
bonfire and fireworks. As part of the festivities, there
Enjoying the first sunny weather of the King’s Birthday (30 Apr). are food stands, music shows
spring at Djurgårdsbrunnsviken The king is greeted at Kungliga and a classic boat show.
 STOCKHOLM THROUGH THE YEAR  29

Average Daily Hours of Sunshine

Sunshine Chart
Hours
Stockholm’s climate can vary
10
markedly from hot, sunny
8 days followed by a cooler
rainy spell during the
6 summer to winters with
freezing temperatures and
4 snow. From mid-June to
mid-July it never really gets
2
dark. Winter days are very
0 short, although there can
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec still be a strong sun at times.

Summer
Stockholm is at its best at this
time of year. Although May can
be warm, summer does not
really start until early June,
when the schools break up.
In late June the sun shines
almost round the clock, and
with it comes a vibrant outdoor
life with picnics and street
festivals. The capital gets a little
emptier at peak holiday-time in
July. When the schools go back
in late August, Swedes celebrate
the arrival of two annual Traditional Midsummer celebrations at Skansen, the open-air museum
culinary delights: crayfish and
fermented Baltic herring. festival celebrated at Skansen Stockholm Pride (Aug). Week-
over three days. It starts at 2pm long gay and lesbian festival
June on Midsummer Eve with the with a parade, events and music.
Summerburst (early Jun). Festival traditional raising of the Stockholm Music & Arts
of electronic music in Gärdet. maypole and ring dancing. (early Aug). Festival held in
Stockholm Outdoor (early Jun). ÅF Offshore Race (end Jun). Skeppsholmen.
Scandinavia’s largest festival for A major international sailing Midnight Race (mid-Aug).
outdoor activities. event, which starts in Stockholm Night-time running that takes
Stockholm Early Music Festival and finishes at Sandhamn. place over a distance of 10 km
(early Jun). Renowned musicians Drottningholms Slottsteater (6 miles) in Söder. The event
from Sweden and Europe (Jun–Aug). A season of concerts, attracts around 16,000 people.
perform music from the Medieval, opera and dance is performed Stockholm Culture Festival
Renaissance and Baroque periods. in the 18th-century court theatre. (mid-Aug). For six days, the
A Taste of Stockholm (early Jun). streets and squares of
Kungsträdgården becomes the July the city centre become
world’s largest outdoor restaurant. Stockholm Street the stage for 600
Archipelago Boat Day (early Festival (early Jul). cultural events.
Jun). Classic steamboats Buskers, magicians Philharmonikerna
assemble at Strömkajen near and other performers i det Gröna (2nd Sun in
the Grand Hôtel for a round trip entertain at Aug). The Royal Phil-
to Vaxholm. Kungsträdgården. harmonic Orchestra
ASICS Stockholm Marathon Stockholm BAUHAUS performs for free to
(first Sat in Jun). One of the Athletics (end Jul). Crayfish picnicking music-lovers
world’s 10 biggest marathons A major international on the lawn by
with around 13,000 runners. athletics competition at Sjöhistoriska museet.
National Day (6 Jun). Celebra- Stockholm Stadion. Baltic Sea Festival (late Aug).
tions at Skansen take place in Various Swedish orchestras
the presence of the royal family. August perform classical pieces at the
Nationaldagsgaloppen (6 Jun). Crayfish Season (Aug). Berwaldhallen concert hall.
Horse racing at Gärdet. Parties throughout the capital Popaganda (late Aug). Artists
Midsummer Eve (last Sat but feast on crayfish and sing display their works at the public
one in Jun). A major Swedish traditional drinking songs. baths of Eriksdalsbadet.
30  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall Chart

mm Inches
Some years Stockholm
can have very rainy
100 4
summers, but in others
80 the weather can be dry
3 for several weeks at a
60 time. Heavy snowfall in
2 winter may lie until
40 March, but some
winters have been
1
20 known to be virtually
free of snow.
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Snow Rain

in the Hall of State and the

Autumn Royal Chapel at Kungliga Slott.
Early autumn mornings can Stockholm Beer and Whisky
be crisp and clear. Summer Festival (last weekend in Sep &
often stages a successful first in Oct). Lively festival with
and lengthy last-ditch stand, lots of beer, whisky and cider.
before the trees explode in a Stockholm Half-Marathon
cascade of colours. (mid-Sep). This easy course
Globen, Tele2 and starts and finishes
other indoor arenas outside the Royal
draw increasingly Palace, taking runners
large attendances, through many inner-
and cultural activities city areas.
in theatres and Chanterelles Traditional Fair at
art galleries get under Skansen (last weekend in Annual Stockholm International Horse
way again, although many Sep). Among the items on sale Show at Globen
outdoor events continue are textiles, woodcrafts and toys.
well into the autumn, Lidingö Race (end of Sep). If Stockholm Open (mid-Oct).
weather permitting. The world’s largest cross- This ATP World Tour tennis
country race with competitors tournament takes place at
September of all ages. Kungliga Lawn Tennishallen.
Now is the time to pick apples, Svensk Travkriterium (end of
pears and plums in the garden. Sep). Harness racing at Solvalla. November
Summer cottages are shut, and As darkness falls over the
boats are laid up for the winter, October city, there is a wide selection
but there is still a lot going on in This is a busy time for theatres, of events to choose from.
the capital. cinemas, restaurants and clubs. Granturismo (early Nov).
Tjejmilen (early Sep). Djurgården There are fewer outdoor events, An exhibition of some of the
is the setting for the world’s with people heading instead world’s finest and fastest cars.
biggest race for female athletes. for the parks and forests for Scandinavian Sail and Motor
Stockholm Oktoberfest (early autumn strolls. Boat Show (mid-Nov). Exhibition
Sep). A popular Bavarian-style Bake & Chocolate Festival at Stockholm International Fairs
beer festival with music. (mid-Oct). The world’s best with everything for large motor
Music at the Palace (Sep). The bakers and chocolatiers gather boats or yachts.
summer concert season starts at Stockholmsmässan. Skating Premiere (mid-Nov).
Skating with music starts on a
rink in Kungsträdgården.
Stockholm International Film
Festival (mid-Nov). Ten-day
event with public screenings
and the presentation of awards.
Stockholm International Horse
Show (late Nov). World Cup
competition in dressage and
jumping plus entertainment
at Globen.
Christmas displays (late Nov).
Shop windows and streets are
Profusion of autumn colours in Hagaparken seasonally decorated.
 STOCKHOLM THROUGH THE YEAR  31

Average monthly temperature Temperature Chart

Stockholm has a maritime
°C °F climate and is much milder
30 86 than one might expect. The
summers are usually fairly
20 68
cool, but sometimes there
10 50 is hot sunshine for several
weeks running. Winter
0 32 temperatures often fall
below freezing, but it is rarely
-10 14
severely cold. The average
-20 -4 maximum and minimum
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec temperatures are shown.

laureates. In the
Winter evening the royal
Winter can vary from family attends a
temperatures a few banquet at
degrees above freezing with Stadshuset (City Hall).
slush on the streets to sparkling Lucia Celebrations
sunny days with the city under a (13 Dec). Sweden’s
dazzling white blanket of snow, white-clad Lucia, the
ice-covered water and tempe- “Queen of Light”, with
ratures well below zero. her girl attendants
Stockholmers get out their skis, and “star boys”, serves
skates, or toboggans, or go for the Nobel laureates
long walks. There are also several early morning coffee
cultural and sporting events. with saffron buns
and performs
December traditional songs. In
Sometimes the eagerly awaited the evening a Lucia Fireworks display over Stockholm on New Year’s Eve
Christmas season seems a long procession winds
way off, but there is no shortage through the city to celebrations city ring their bells, and there is
of activities in early December, and fireworks at Skansen. Many a spectacular fireworks display.
when some of the year’s most Swedish homes, schools and
important events are staged. workplaces have their own Lucia. January
Christmas Walking Tours (Dec). Christmas Markets (from early Stockholm Fashion Week
A great way to enjoy the city’s Dec). An array of Christmas (end of Jan). As well as fashion,
Christmas decorations and lights. goods on sale at traditional events focus on interior design.
Christmas at Skansen (Dec). markets at Skansen, Rosendals
This open-air museum (see Slott, Kungsträdgården, February
pp100–1) beautifully demonstrates Stortorget in Gamla Stan and Antiques Fair (mid-Feb).
how Christmas was celebrated Drottningholms Slott. Stockholm International Fairs,
in pre-industrial society. Christmas (24–26 Dec). Filled Älvsjö, hosts antiques lovers.
Nobel Day (10 Dec). A ceremony with traditions, Christmas is Globen Gala (mid-Feb).
at Konserthuset (Concert Hall) the most important Swedish International athletics stars
honours the year’s Nobel Prize holiday. The main event is converge on the Globen arena
Christmas Eve, when an for one of the world’s best
abundant smörgåsbord is indoor competitions.
followed by gifts, often
delivered by a family member
Public Holidays
disguised as Father Christmas.
Christmas Sales (first weekday New Year (1 Jan)
after Christmas). Shops start Epiphany (6 Jan)
their sales. Good Friday
New Year (31 Dec–1 Jan). A Easter Monday
major festival, when many Ascension Day (6th Thu
Stockholmers go out on the after Easter)
Labour Day (1 May)
town. Traditional celebrations at
Whit Monday (May/Jun)
Skansen include a reading of
Midsummer Eve (end Jun)
Tennyson’s poem “Ring Out, Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Lucia, the “Queen of Light”, with her Wild Bells” on the stroke of Boxing Day (26 Dec)
attendants at Skansen midnight. Churches across the
 INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM  33

STOCKHOLM AT A GLANCE
The old conception of Stockholm as a small, well as plenty of impressive cultural treasures
rustic capital of a cold country far away to that can be discovered in its fine museums.
the north is no longer valid – the city has a To make your visit as rewarding as possible
rich cultural heritage and has become a the following ten pages give a quick guide
dynamic Continental-style capital. to the best museums and palaces, the most
Stockholm is an unbelievably beautiful city, distinguished architecture and outstanding
surrounded by clear water and unspoilt modern design. Activities along the city’s
countryside that stretches right into the heart quaysides and waterways are also described.
of the urban area. Stockholm’s 750-year history Below is a selection of sights that should not
has produced many beautiful buildings, as be missed.

Stockholm’s Top Ten Sights

Skansen
See pp100–101

Stadshuset Nordiska museet

See pp116–17 See pp92–3

Drottningholm
See pp146–9

Historiska museet
See pp106–7 Moderna museet Stockholm’s Archipelago
See pp82–3 See pp152–3

Royal Palace and its

Nationalmuseum Guard Vasamuseet
See pp84–5 See pp50–53 See pp94–6
The magnificent Western Staircase in the Royal Palace
34  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Stockholm’s Best: Museums

Stockholm has around 100 museums, Hallwylska museet
with remarkable collections covering Thanks to a method-
ical countess and her
every conceivable subject and interest. impeccable taste, this
The “Top Ten” shown here are of particular lavishly decorated
note. Kungliga Slottet (the Royal Palace), palace from the late
for instance, is effectively four museums 19th century has
become a magnificent
in one, while the most spectacular is the museum with a wide-
museum housing the Vasa warship, ranging collection of
salvaged from the depths of Stockholm’s objects displayed in
harbour after 333 years and now an an original setting.
international attraction.

Vasastaden

City

Blasieholmen

Medeltidsmuseum
Parts of the city wall from the 1530s can
be seen in this underground Medieval
museum, which focuses on the capital’s
origins. The wall’s reconstruction shows
medieval building techniques. Gamla Stan

0 metres 500

0 yards 500

Södermalm

The Royal Palace

In addition to its own
attractions, the Royal
Palace houses four
specialist museums:
Nationalmuseum the Treasury, featuring
The Nationalmuseum of Fine Arts, Sweden’s largest the State Regalia; the
art museum, has fine collections of 17th- and Royal Armoury;
18th-century Swedish paintings and handicrafts, Gustav III’s Museum of
17th-century Dutch and 18th-century French art. Antiquities; and the
Rubens’s Bacchanalia on Andros dates from the 1630s. Tre Kronor Museum.
 S TO C K H O L M AT A G L A N C E  35

Historiska museet
Behind the sculpted
bronze gateways of the
Swedish History Museum
is a wealth of material,
including a section
on Viking life. The Gold
Room shows priceless
prehistoric finds, such as
the Timboholm Treasure
(400–450 BC).

Moderna museet
The Fantastic Paradise (1966) Sjöhistoriska museet
by Niki de Saint Phalle and The stern of the royal
Jean Tinguely marks the way flagship Amphion, dating
up to the Moderna museet, with from the late 18th
its collection of modern inter- century, is one of the
national and Swedish art. many treasures on display
in the National Maritime
Museum, designed by
architect Ragnar Östberg.
Östermalm

Djurgården Nordiska museet

This colossal building
Skeppsholmen from 1907 houses
many different
artifacts illustrating
everyday Swedish life
and customs, dating
from the 1520s.

Vasamuseet Skansen
A fatal capsizing in 1628 and a The world’s first open-air museum,
successful salvage operation founded in 1891, shows the
333 years later gave Stockholm Sweden of bygone days with farms
its most popular museum. Over and manor houses, urban scenes
98 per cent of the renovated and craftspeople at work. Nordic
warship Vasa is original. fauna and flora are also on display.
36  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Exploring Stockholm’s Museums

Stockholm’s wide range of museums gives the visitor a Medelhavsmuseet (Museum of
chance to experience exhibitions covering a multitude of Mediterranean and Near Eastern
different interests. Many are housed in magnificent historic Antiquities, p67), with its
marvellous 1905 stairwell,
palaces or institutions with notable collections and the
focuses on architecture and
resources to bring each subject to life. In addition, there sculptures from the countries
are numerous specialist museums, including the homes of around the Mediterranean.
highly regarded artists. Various important private collections Östasiatiska museet
are open to the public. This guide lists more than 50 of the (Museum of Far Eastern
best museums Stockholm has to offer. Antiquities, p80) contains large
collections of arts and crafts from
China, Japan, Korea and India.
1820s in Karl Johan (Empire)
style, on Djurgården. Gustav III’s
Paviljong (pp124–5) in Art Museums
Hagaparken has furnishings and The wide range of collections at
decorations that are fine the Nationalmuseum (National
examples of the late Museum of Fine Arts, pp84–5)
18th-century Gustavian style. cover European and Swedish
Ulriksdals Slott (p127) has some paintings up to the early 20th
interesting interiors, including a century, as well as Swedish
living room for King Gustav VI handicrafts and design.
Adolf and Queen Louise. Moderna museet (pp82–3) on
In a class of its own is Skeppsholmen has an outstand-
Drottningholms Slott (pp146– ing collection of contemporary
9), a UNESCO World Heritage Swedish and international art.
site, which includes a notable ArkDes (p80), highlights
theatre museum. Swedish building techniques
Karl XII’s uniform, 1718, on show over the last 1,000 years and
at Livrustkammaren provides an overview of the
Historical Museums wider international picture.
Several of Stockholm’s Three magnificent art
Palace Museums museums focus on various galleries are located in
The period when Sweden was historic aspects. beautiful buildings on
a great power (1611–1721) Historiska museet (Swedish Djurgården. Liljevalchs
resulted in a number of History Museum, pp106–7) has Konsthall (p97) focuses on
beautiful buildings, many of treasures from prehistoric times 20th-century Swedish and
which are now museums. in its magnificent Gold Room, international art, while
Foremost among these are the as well as a wonderful section Waldemarsudde (p99) and
royal palaces in and around the on the Vikings. Thielska Galleriet (p99) both
city. Kungliga Slottet (Royal Nordiska museet (pp92–3) specialize in Swedish and
Palace, pp50–53) is a museum and the open-air Skansen Nordic art from the late 19th to
in itself. It also houses (pp100–101) show Swedish the early 20th century.
Skattkammaren (the Treasury) customs and traditions along- The Schefflelerska Palatset
with Sweden’s royal regalia, side traditional wooden homes. (Haunted Palace, p118) shows
crowns and a large silver font for Stockholms Stadsmuseum Stockholm University’s
the baptism of royal children. (City Museum, p129) tells the collection of classic Swedish
Also in the Royal Palace are story of Stockholm and its
Gustav III’s Antikmuseum, citizens. It is also home to a
containing the antique marble reference library.
sculptures that Gustav III The city’s earliest
brought home from his Italian history is highlighted at
travels, and Livrustkammaren Medeltidsmuseum (Medieval
(Royal Armoury, p54) where Museum, p61).
visitors can see a variety of Etnografiska museet(National
items used at the court through Museum of Ethnography, p110)
the centuries. Museum Tre features anthropological artifacts
Kronor reflects the history of from all around the world.
the earlier castle. The culture and history
Other royal museums include of Stockholm’s Jewish
Rosendals Slott (p98), a pre- population is the theme of Decorative Viking brooch,
fabricated building from the Judiska museet (p120). Historiska museet
 S TO C K H O L M AT A G L A N C E  37

paintings, from the 16th to the

19th century, as well as artistic
Swedish glass.
Millesgården (p152) on
Lidingö is where the sculptor
Carl Milles lived and worked,
and where he is now buried.
Some of his best works are on
show in a beautiful outdoor
setting with a panoramic view
of Stockholm.

Marine Museums
A city located on water
offers plenty of interest for
anyone interested in ships
and the sea. Drawing room in the lavishly decorated Hallwylska museet
One of the city’s biggest
attractions, Vasamuseet author August Strindberg, the to life the classic children’s
(pp94–6) shows the Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet books by Astrid Lindgren.
magnificent and almost intact (Strindberg’s Blue Tower Leksaksmuseet (Toy
warship Vasa, which sank in Museum, p71) gives an insight Museum, p133) is an attraction
Stockholm harbour after a into his life. A statue of for all ages, though it is children
maiden voyage of only 1,300 m Strindberg by Carl Eldh stands who will be utterly mesmerized
(1,400 yd). In addition to the near Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum by its mechanical toys, models,
painstakingly restored hull, (Studio Museum, pp122–3), the dolls and dolls’ houses.
there are other exhibits that sculptor’s former residence. A traditional wine shop
give an insight into life on and distillery can be seen at
board a 17th-century warship. Spritmuseum (Museum of
Close to Vasa are Spirits, p91). Another human
Museifartygen (Museum Museums for weakness, tobacco, is
Ships, p91), including one Special Interests documented at Skansen’s
of the last Swedish lightships, Stockholm has many museums Tobaksmuseet (Museum of
Finngrundet (1903), and the catering for special interests. Matches and Tobacco).
powerful ice-breaker St Erik Kungliga Myntkabinettet Postmuseum (Postal
(1915), featuring Europe’s largest (Royal Coin Cabinet, p54) Museum, p57) contains more
marine steam engine. explains the history of money than 4 million stamps from
Sjöhistoriska museet and shows coins and other around the world.
(National Maritime Museum, methods of payment dating Spårvägsmuseet (Transport
pp108–9) houses a fine back 1,000 years. Museum, p132) has some 40
collection of model ships as Junibacken (p90) is a original trams and a large
well as an interesting display charming museum, bringing collection of models. In the
of figure heads. same area is the Almgrens
A short boat trip takes Sidenväveri & Museum
visitors to the Fjäderholmarna (Almgren’s Silk-Weaving Mill
islands, where there are two & Museum, p129).
boat museums devoted to The life of the popular
traditional and recreational 18th-century troubadour Carl
boating. There is also an angling Michael Bellman (p98) is
museum and the Baltic portrayed at the Bellmanmuseet
aquarium, dramatically set into (p134) on Långholmen.
the side of a rock face (p152). Dansmuseet (Dance
Museum, p67) reflects
all aspects of dance
Museums in with a superb and varied
Private Homes international collection.
One of the pearls among Swedish Museum of
Stockholm’s museums, Performing Arts (p74) has
Hallwylska museet (p75) is an some 6,000 instruments
opulent private residence from and the country’s biggest
the late 19th century, complete musical archive, which
with original furnishings. The Stage costume from Les Ballets includes records covering
home of the dramatist and Suédois (1920s), Dansmuseet 20,000 traditional ballads.
38  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Stockholm’s Best: Architecture

Sweden was spared the ravages of World War II, so
Stockholm has preserved a rich variety of architectural
treasures. Gamla Stan was the city’s first built-up area.
The surrounding districts known as Malmarna (see p103)
remained mainly rural until an intensive period of
building begun in the second half of the 19th century.
From 1930 the city started to expand further and this
period is reflected in a band of Functionalist-style
buildings. Suburbs including Farsta and Vällingby were
built after 1945. In the 1990s, new buildings began Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern
(Fredrik Lilljekvist, 1901–8). The Royal
appearing in the inner city on former industrial sites. Dramatic Theatre is one of Stockholm’s
few monumental Jugendstil buildings.
The façades are of white marble and,
inside, the staircase and foyer are
embellished with lavish gold decorative
work. (See pp74–5.)
Vasastaden

The Royal Palace

(Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, 1690–1704;
completed under Carl Hårleman). Work on
the Royal Palace, based on plans by Tessin
the Younger, started after the fire in 1697. The
City
façade exhibits influences of Roman palaces;
the magnificent interiors are of French and
Swedish design. (See pp50–53.)

Ny
br
ov
ik
en
Kungsholmen

Gamla stan
St

Wrangelska Palatset
rö

(Originally built 1629; extensively rebuilt under Jean de la Vallée and

m
m

Nicodemus Tessin the Elder, 1652–70). This is one of several majestic palaces
en

built on Riddarholmen in the imposing style popular during the 17th century.
Original details include the gateway and the courtyard arcade. (See p58.)

The Tessin Trio

Nicodemus Tessin the Younger (1654–1728), who designed the Royal Palace (see
pp50–53), can be regarded as Sweden’s leading architect because he influenced
not only building design but also city
planning, landscape gardening and
handicrafts. His father, Nicodemus Tessin
the Elder (1615–81), designed several
country mansions, with Drottningholm
Palace being his master work (see pp146–9).
The third-generation Tessin, Carl Gustaf
(1695–1770), along with Carl Hårleman,
introduced the Rococo style to Sweden. Etching of the Royal Palace, to which
0 metres 500
all three Tessins contributed
0 yards 500
 S TO C K H O L M AT A G L A N C E  39

Stockholm’s Surrounding Areas

Tessinparken
(Arvid Stille; 1930 city plan by Sture
Frölén). Functionalist style on a
large scale was tested on the
three-storey buildings on pillars at
Stadsbiblioteket Tessinparken. (See p112.)
(Erik Gunnar Asplund, 1920–28). The City
Library is Stockholm’s most admired example
of the 1920s Neo-Classical style. The book
hall has a fascinating cylindrical shape and
many fine interior details. (See p119.)

Söder Cottages
Wooden cottages for port
workers were built from the
early 18th century. Quite a few
remain in the Söder area, for
example at Åsöberget and on
Fjällgatan. (See p131.) Globen Arena was
Drottningholm, a designed in a spectacular
World Heritage site, spheric shape. (See p135.)
features exquisite
buildings and parks
dating from 1600 to Skogskyrkogården Cemetery, a World
1880. (See pp146–9.) 0 kilometres 5
Heritage site, combines landscape design
and architecture. (See p135.) 0 miles 3

Nordiska museet
(Isak Gustaf Clason, 1889–1907). This museum
Östermalm was conceived as a national monument to
Nordic culture. The impressive building in a
Scandinavian version of Renaissance style is
only one-fourth of its original planned size.
(See pp92–3.)

Djurgården
Skepps-
holmen

Södermalm

Moderna museet
(Rafael Moneo, 1995–8). The spacious Modern
Museum was designed to be novel yet not to
disturb the historically sensitive surroundings
of the island of Skeppsholmen. (See pp82–3.)
40  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Swedish Style
Swedish design first attracted international attention at the
1925 World Exhibition in Paris, when glassware in particular
took the world by storm, and the concept of “Swedish Grace”
was launched. The nation’s design tradition is characterized by
its simplicity and functionality with an emphasis on natural
materials. Swedish designers and architects are renowned for
creating simple, attractive “human” objects for everyday use.
The 1990s marked the beginning of a new golden age in
which contemporary Swedish design once more won Stoneware, Hans Hedberg
Swedish stoneware from the
worldwide acclaim.
1940s, 1950s and 1960s attracts
worldwide attention, and
collectors tend to snap up
anything they can find.

Armchair (1969), Bruno Mathsson

Bruno Mathsson, one of Sweden’s most celebrated
20th-century furniture designers, is one of the
creators of what came to be known as the “Swedish
Modern” style. He designed the first version of the
Pernilla armchair in 1942.

Simplicity is
the concept
most closely
associated with
Swedish style.
Pale wood is
characteristic
of its design.

Rag mats are

produced using an
old Swedish
weaving tradition
taken up by Karin
Larsson, whose
skill as a textile
designer is now
widely recognized.
Bureau (1952), Josef Frank
Frank was born in Austria but worked in
Sweden and was another disciple of the
“Swedish Modern” style. He is best known
for his printed textiles for Svenskt Tenn (see
p186), but also designed furniture.

Carpet (1931), Märta Måås-Fjetterström

From 1919 Måås-Fjetterström wove her highly
regarded carpets at her studio in southern
Sweden. Her work was inspired by folklore and
nature, and she created a design concept that
was new but still deeply rooted in tradition.
 S TO C K H O L M AT A G L A N C E  41

Silver coffee pot (1953),

Sigurd Persson
Persson had an almost
unrivalled ability to handle
metal. He made a big
impact on the history of
design with both his every-
day industrial work and his
exclusive artistic creations.

Flowers and plants along a windowsill and no curtains

typify the Larssons’ ideas on interior decoration.

Chair (1981), Jonas Bohlin

The Concrete chair became the
most remarkable piece of
Swedish furniture design in the
1980s. A graduation project, it
represented a completely new
approach to furniture design.

Bookshelf (1989), John Kandell

Books are placed flat on the Pilaster
bookshelf instead of being stacked
in the usual way. The lines are
simple and typically Scandinavian.
The maker, Källemo, is one of
Sweden’s most unconventional
furniture manufacturers.

Gustavian late 18th-century style elements

have remained a strong feature in Swedish
design through the centuries, and made a
particular comeback in the 1990s.

Carl Larsson’s Sundborn

The home created by the artist Carl Larsson Where to See Swedish Design
(1853–1919) and his wife Karin became an Asplund
inspiration to the world when it featured in his Sibyllegatan 31. Map 3 E3. Contemporary Swedish and
watercolour series A Home. The mixture of old international design. ∑ asplund.org
and new, pure colours, plants and windows
without curtains was an expression of the Design House Stockholm
Hamngatan 18–20. Map 3 D4. Exclusive and functional
“Beauty for All” movement.
design with a Scandinavian touch.
∑ designhousestockholm.com

Jacksons
Sibyllegatan 53. Map 3 E3. ∑ jacksons.se
Vase (1998), Orrefors Kosta Boda
Ann Wåhlström Birger Jarlsgatan 15. Map 3 D3. ∑ orrefors.com or
Wåhlström is one of ∑ kostaboda.com
the new young
glass designers at R.O.O.M.
Kosta Boda. Her PUB, Plan 03, Hötorget. Map 2 C4. ∑ room.se
vase, Cyklon, is a Svenskt Tenn
good example of Strandvägen 5. Map 3 E4.
contemporary Josef Frank, etc. ∑ svenskttenn.se
Swedish glass.
42  INTRODUCING STOCKHOLM

Stockholm, the City on the Water

Stockholm is sometimes referred to as “The Venice of the
North”, built as it is on 14 islands surrounded by the clear
waters of Lake Mälaren and Saltsjön, an inlet from the
Baltic Sea. For most visitors, seeing “the green city on the
water” is a remarkable experience. Stockholm’s quaysides
and waterways offer a range of activities not normally
associated with a capital city, which are made possible
only because of the pollution-free environment. The
waterside location is Stockholm’s most beautiful feature.
Canoe Slalom on Strömmen
Spectacular canoe slalom competi-
Sailing Race on tions are held every year in the
Riddarfjärden rushing water of the Strömmen
The waters of channel below Gustav Adolfs Torg.
Stockholm are
always busy with
sailing boats. A ride
along Riddarfjärden
is particularly
spectacular at night.
City

Kungsholmen St
rö
mm
en

Gamla
Riddarfjärden Skepps-
Stan
Holmen

Långholmen

Södermalm

Fishing for a Living

Swimming in the Heart of the City For 400 years fishermen have cast their
During the summer months, swimmers bathe in the nets from boats near Kungliga Slottet
clean, warm water (about 20°C/68°F) in the city centre. (Royal Palace). Today only four boats
Långholmen (see p134) has sandy beaches and smooth remain. Of the 30 species found here,
rocks offering an ideal setting for a refreshing dip. smelt is the most commonly caught fish.
For map symbols see back flap
 S TO C K H O L M AT A G L A N C E  43

Vintage Mahogany Boat

Lovingly renovated vintage motor boats with
shining mahogany and brass fittings are often
seen on the waterways of Stockholm, as well
as the more exclusive Riva racing boats.
Exploring on Your Own
Kayaks, pedalos, rowing boats, motor boats and 0 metres 500
sometimes sailing dinghies can be hired near the
Djurgården Bridge by visitors who want to explore 0 yards 500
the waters of Stockholm on their own.
Key
Paved walking path

Östermalm

runnsviken
Djurgårdsb

Djurgården

Saltsjön

Fishing for Perch

The clean waters of the inner city are
rich in edible fish. Anglers spin for sea
trout, and here, on Djurgårdsbrunn
Canal, bait-fishing for perch is
popular, as is fly-fishing in autumn.

Cruise Ship Manoeuvres in

Stockholm’s Harbour
Cruise ships are an impressive sight,
when seen from the heights of
Södermalm, as they make their way
through the narrow channel to their
centrally located quay.
Aerial view of the city, around the royal palace
STOCKHOLM
AREA BY AREA

Gamla Stan 46–61

City 62–75
Blasieholmen & Skeppsholmen 76–85
Djurgården 86–101
Malmarna & Further Afield 102–135
Three Guided Walks 136–141
Excursions from Stockholm 142–153
 STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA  47

GAMLA STAN
Relics of Stockholm’s early history as a town standing majestically around Slottsbacken
in the 13th century can still be found on underline Stockholm’s role as a capital city.
Stadsholmen, the largest island in Gamla Stan This area has a special atmosphere with much
(Old Town). The whole island is one huge area to offer: from the bustling streets of souvenir
of historical heritage, with the many sights shops, bookstores and antiques shops to
just a few metres apart. elegant palaces, churches and museums. Many
The Royal Palace is the symbol of Sweden’s medieval cellars are now restaurants and cafés,
era as a great power in the 17th and early while the narrow streets recall a bygone era.
18th centuries (see pp20–21), and its Bridges lead to Riddarholmen, with its
magnificent state rooms, apartments and 17th-century palaces and royal crypt, and to
artifacts are well matched to the Roman Helgeandsholmen for the newer splendours
Baroque-style exterior. The historic buildings of Riksdagshuset (the Parliament building).

Sights at a Glance
Palaces and Museums Streets and Squares Restaurants pp166–71
1 Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace) 6 Stortorget 1 Bistro & Grill Ruby
pp50–53 8 Mårten Trotzigs Gränd 2 Bistro Pastis
2 Livrustkammaren 9 Västerlånggatan 3 Den Gyldene Freden
3 Kungliga Myntkabinettet e Evert Taubes Terrass 4 Djuret
4 Tessinska Palatset Churches 5 Frantzen
0 Postmuseum 6 Magnus Ladulas
5 Storkyrkan
w Wrangelska Palatset 7 Mr French
7 Tyska Kyrkan
t Stenbockska Palatset 8 Pubologi
q Riddarholms-kyrkan
u Bondeska Palatset 9 Le Rouge
o Medeltidsmuseum 10 Vapiano Gamla Stan
Historic Buildings m
trö STRÖM-
rrs PARTERREN
NO

r Birger Jarls Torn No Ström-

RR

bron
y Riddarhuset
BR

No
O

Riks-
i Riksdagshuset
rrs

bron RIKS-
PLAN
trö
m

LOGÅRDS-
n N TRAPPAN
Helgeands- ale KE
holmen an EN B AC
lk AJ ON
Stal K LE
J LOGÅRDEN
TS
OT
Vasa- SL INRE
bron Stallbron BORGGÅRDEN
EN KANSLIKAJEN MYNT-
AJ TORGET
RÅ

SK
HÖ

Central-
HU
D

N EN
GV
HU

bron TA
R CK
RID

DA
AK

GA YTTRE BA
SG

TTS
DA

DAR- D T
TST

RI BORGGÅRDEN
RÄ

A RID YN S LO
RH
Ri

NORR SHAMNEN
ERR
N

M ND
dd

US

HOLM RÄ
ASS
G
a

FG
RÄ
rh

RA
KÄ LLA RG

EG
EN
ol

N TEL
D

BO
m

TA EN
GA R IN K
sk

STORKYRKO B
LLH

RI
an

RIDDARHUS-
KE
al

TORGET BRE DGR ÄND

US

YC EGR
.
PRÄ
en

R.

TR UNK
GR.

SKEPPSBROKAJEN

ÅM TRÄDGÅRDSG.
T. GR
STG

Riddarholms- S
bron KÖPMAN- NYG RÄN D
ATA

BIRGER
JARLS KÖPMANSGATAN TORGET
BRUN NSGR ÄND
N

TORG D BRÄNDA
R ÄN . . TOMTEN
EN SG GR KBR SKO TTG RÄN D
G G ATA N

BACK
SV

GÅ S KÅ .
ST

SK

SJÄLAGÅRDSG.

SKA ED UG
GAMLA
SG ATAN
OR

AR

NGEL MUNK-
ON
OM

WRA SM ST
A

BRON YX
TM
PR ERL
VÄ

D
AK

N DRAKEN
S TA N
N
ÄS ÅN

KE KI
PSBR
ST

S GRÄN
AR

AN

RID
R ID D A R -
RLÅ N
TG GG

N D
en
GYMNAS

RI
GA

DA
BAGGEN

FERKEN
G
AT

RH SÖD KB S GRÄ
AT
TA
AN TA

ND
HO L MEN KÅ
Strömm

OL RA
NY

AN
N

ÖS TE

M
SKEP
GA

SH N GAFF
AM ELGR.
TA
IEGR.

R.
LIL

NE
N

TYSKA
N SG EN
LA

DT IN
K BRUNNS-
EL JOHANNESGRÄND
M

NF BR PLAN
UN
MUN

Ö
Riddarfjärden CH KA
NY
KB

S S
RO

GA

TY TYSKA PACKHUSGRÄND
KBR

D
G

TA

ÄN STALL-
AT

GR
N

PLAN
AN RTO
OHA

TS
ÄL

M T ED TULL
A

Gamla NS GRÄ
MNE

UN JO ND
Stan KB LE
RG

KORNHAMNS- JÄRN- N. BA
RO
ET
N

TORG NKO
LE TORGET GR.
DE S. B
N ANK
Central- KO OGR
RN .
bron S. D
HA RYC
Söders M KES
trö N GR
.
m SLUSS- RÄNTMÄSTAR-
N

PLAN TRAPPAN
RO

KARL
SB

JOHANS
EPP

0 metres TORG Slussen

250
See also Street Finder
SK

pp206–18 0 yards 250

Detail from a striking stained-glass window in Storkyrkan For map symbols see back flap
48  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Slottsbacken
Slottsbacken is much more than just a steep hill
linking Skeppsbron and the highest part of Gamla Stan
(Old Town). It also provides the background for ceremonial
processions and the daily changing of the guard, and is the
route for visiting heads of state and foreign ambassadors,
when they have an audience with the king at the Royal Palace
(Kungliga Slottet). Alongside Slottsbacken the palace displays
its most attractive façade, with the entrance to the Treasury The Olaus Petri statue by
(Skattkammaren), State Room (Rikssalen) and Palace Church Storkyrkan stands in front of
(Slottskyrkan). Nicodemus Tessin the Younger’s ambition to a tablet telling the history
of the cathedral
make Stockholm a leading European city in monumental
since 1264.
terms was realized in 1799 with the addition of the Obelisk.

Outer Courtyard

Axel Oxenstiernas Palats (1653) is, for

Stockholm, an unusual example of the
style known as Roman Mannerism. For
30 years, Axel Oxenstierna (1583–1654)
was a dominant figure in Swedish
power politics.
TR
ÅN

The Obelisk by Louis

GS

Jean Desprez was

UN

erected in 1799 to thank

D

the citizens for their

support of Gustav III’s
S TO R 
Russian war in 1788–90.
TO R G E T
Stock Exchange (see p56)

5. Storkyrkan
An impressive cathedral with a
late Gothic interior, it is full of
treasures from many different eras.

6 Stortorget
This square is the heart of the “city
between the bridges”, with a well Key
dating from 1778. It was the scene of
the Stockholm Bloodbath in 1520. Suggested route
 G A M L A S TA N  49

2. Livrustkammaren
CITY
Str
öm
Sweden’s oldest museum me
n
displays royal weaponry,
clothing and carriages
from over five centuries.
The picture shows Gustaf II
GAMLA STAN
Adolf’s stallion Streiff, from
the battle of Lützen in 1632. Riddarfjärden

SÖDER

Locator Map
Kungsträdgården See Street Finder map 4

1. Kungliga Slottet
The southern façade of
the royal palace has a
triumphal central arch
with four niches for
statues, created by
French artists in the
18th century.
SK
EP
PS
BR
ON

KEN
TS BAC
S LOT
ÖS
TE L Å N G G ATA N

Slussen

Gustav III’s statue was

sculpted by J T Sergel in 1799 in
K Ö P M A N G ATA N memory of the “charming king”
who was assassinated in 1792.
Köpmantorget with
statue of St George Slay-
ing the Dragon (1912).

3 Kungliga Myntkabinettet
In a 16th-century setting, the Royal
Finska Kyrkan, Slottsbacken’s Coin Cabinet has the world’s largest
oldest building, dates from the stamped coin, dating from 1644.
1640s. It was originally a court
for ball games for the palace,
but since 1725 it has been the
religious centre for the Finnish 4 Tessinska Palatset
community. Built by and for Nicodemus Tessin the
Younger, architect of the Royal Palace,
0 metres
in 1694–7, this palace has been the
100
residence of the Governor of
0 yards 100 Stockholm County since 1968.
50  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

1 Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace)

Defensive installations or castles have stood on the island
of Stadsholmen ever since the 11th century. The Tre Kronor
(Three Crowns) fortress was completed in the mid-13th
century, but during the following century it became a royal
residence. The Vasa kings turned the fortress into a
Renaissance palace, but this burned to the ground in 1697. In
its place the architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger created
a new palace in Roman style with an Italianate exterior and a . Changing of the Guard
French interior toned down by Swedish influences. The Stockholm’s most popular tourist
palace’s 608 rooms were decorated by Europe’s foremost event is the daily changing of the
artists and craftsmen. King Adolf Fredrik was the first king to guard, which takes place at
midday in the Outer Courtyard.
move into the palace, in 1754. It is no longer the king’s private
residence, but remains one of the city’s leading sights.

Entrance to the
The Western State Apartments
Staircase
Tessin was
especially proud of
the two staircases,
made from Swedish
marble and
porphyry. On the
western staircase
stands a bust of the
gifted architect.

. The Hall of State

This opulent hall has an
atmosphere of ceremonial
splendour and forms an
ideal setting for Queen
Kristina’s silver throne,
probably the palace’s Entrance to the
most famous treasure. Treasury and
Royal Chapel

KEY

1 The Guest Apartments

2 The Bernadotte Apartments
are situated on the floor below
Karl XI’s Gallery.
3 Tre Kronor Museum entrance
from Lejonbacken.
4 Carl Hårleman played an
important role in the design of the The Royal Chapel
palace. His bust adorns this niche. This delightful little
church has a rich
5 Logården is the terrace between
the palace’s east wings. interior decorated by
many different artists.
6 Livrustkammaren (see p54). The pulpit is the work
of J P Bouchardon.
 G A M L A S TA N  51

Gustav III’s State Bedchamber VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sergel’s bust of Gustav III (1779)
stands in the room where the king Practical Information
died after being shot at the Opera Gamla Stan.
House. The decor by J E Rehn dates Map 4 B2.
from the 1770s. Tel 08-402 61 30.
∑ kungahuset.se
The Royal Apartments, The
Treasury, Gustav III’s Museum of
Antiquities, Tre Kronor Museum:
. Karl XI’s Gallery Open mid-May–mid-Sep: 10am–
One of the most 5pm daily; mid-Sep–mid-May:
magnificent rooms 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Closed
in the palace, this during official functions of the
fine example of Court. 8 tours in English at 1 &
Swedish Late 2pm. & ^ 7 =
Baroque is used for The Royal Chapel: Open Jun–Aug:
banquets hosted by noon–4pm Wed & Fri. 5 Mass
the king and queen. 11am Sun (year round). ^ 7
In the cabinet is this
Travel information
priceless salt-cellar
 Gamla Stan, Kungsträdgården.
dating from 1627–8.
@ 2, 43, 55, 71, 76.

Gustav III’s Museum

of Antiquities
The museum’s
collection includes
antique statues
brought home by
Gustav III from his
journey to Rome.

A Royal Workplace
The king and queen have their offices at the palace,
where they hold audiences with visiting dignitaries
and host official ceremonies. They travel around the
country attending special events, official openings
and anniversaries, and
they make regular
State visits abroad. The
king is well known for
his interest in the
environment while
the queen is heavily
involved with her work
for children, especially King Carl XVI Gustav
the disabled. and Queen Silvia
52  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Royal Palace

The public areas of the Royal Palace allow you to walk
through grand rooms of sumptuous furnishings and priceless
works of art and craftsmanship. The Hall of State and the
Royal Chapel are both characterized by their magnificent
lavish decor and Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities contains
ancient marble sculptures from the king’s journey to Italy. The
palace also houses the Treasury with the State regalia; the
Tre Kronor Museum, which depicts the palace before the
1697 fire; and the Livrustkammaren (see p54). The Pillar Hall in the Bernadotte
Apartments with original decor

drawing room.
Gustav III’s State The Bernadotte
Bedchamber, where Apartments
the king died after This magnificent suite has
being shot at the earned its name from the
Opera House in 1792 gallery displaying portraits of
(see pp24–5), is the the Bernadotte dynasty. The
height of Gustavian apartments have some notable
elegance. Along with ceiling paintings and mid-18th-
Queen Sofia century chandeliers, and are
Magdalena’s State used for many a ceremonial
Bedchamber, it was occasion. The elegant Pillar Hall
designed by the is the venue for investitures, and
architect Jean Eric the East Octagonal Cabinet,
Rehn. The lintels on with probably the palace’s best
the doors to the Don Rococo decor, is where the king
Karl XI’s Gallery, the finest example of the Late Baroque Quixote Room, named receives foreign ambassadors.
period in Sweden after the theme of its Along with the western cabinet,
tapestries, feature its interior has remained just as it
paintings by François Boucher was planned by Carl Hårleman
The State Apartments and are among the palace’s more than 250 years ago.
The royal family has lived at most treasured pieces. Oscar II’s very masculine
Drottningholm Palace (see Writing Room, dating from
pp146–49) since 1982, but the 1870s, also still looks much
official functions, including The Guest Apartments as it did in his day. However,
banquets hosted by the king An imposing part of the palace, it is clear the palace was kept
during visits by foreign heads of these apartments are where up to date with technical
state, still take place in the royal visiting heads of state stay. The advances. Electricity was
palace’s State Apartments. beautiful rooms include the installed in 1883, and the
Other official dinners are staged Meleager Salon, where official telephone only one year later.
here, as well as the festivities gifts and decorations are ex-
held every year to honour the changed, and a large bedroom
Nobel laureates. with a sculpted and gilded The Hall of State
Banquets are served bed. Other impressive Rococo and Classicism were
in Karl XI’s Gallery, the rooms are the Inner Salon, brought together in perfect
finest example of Swedish with decor inspired by the harmony by the architects
Late Baroque, modelled on excavations in Pompeii, and Nicodemus Tessin the Younger
the Hall of Mirrors at the Margareta Room, named and Carl Hårleman, when they
Versailles. Each window after the present king’s designed the two-storey Hall of
is matched with a grandmother and State. It provides a worthy
niche on the inner displaying some framework for Queen Kristina’s
wall, where some of the King Karl XIV pictures painted by her. silver throne, a gift for the
palace’s priceless works Johan’s egg cup The apartments coronation in 1650 and one of
of arts and crafts are contain remarkable the most valuable treasures in
exhibited. Most remarkable is works of craftsmanship by such the palace. The throne was given
the salt-cellar made from ivory 18th-century masters as the to the Queen by Magnus Gabriel
and gilded silver designed by cabinet-maker Georg Haupt (see de la Gardie and was made in
the Flemish painter Rubens p84), chair-maker Ephraim Augsburg, Germany, by the
(1577–1640). The room known Ståhle and the sculptor Jean goldsmith Abraham Drentwett.
as “The White Sea” serves as a Baptiste Masreliez. The canopy was added 100
 G A M L A S TA N  53

years later for the coronation of It also has some rare relics of
King Adolf Fredrik and was the original Tre Kronor fortress:
designed by Jean Eric Rehn. new benches that had been
The decor of the Hall of ordered by Tessin. They had
State is lavish. Colossal been rescued during the palace
sculptures of Karl XIV Johan fire in 1697 and preserved but
and Gustav II Adolf flank the not put in the chapel until the
throne, while those on the 19th century. The benches
cornice symbolize Peace, were made by Georg Haupt,
Strength, Religion and Justice. grandfather of the cabinet-
Until 1975 the Hall of State maker of the same name who
was the scene of the ceremonial was to create some of the Erik XIV’s crown, made by Cornelis
opening of the Swedish palace’s most prized furnishings. ver Weiden in Stockholm in 1561
Parliament (Riksdagen), which
included a march past of the uncrowned King Carl XVI Gustaf.
royal bodyguard in full regalia. Gustav III’s Museum The 1-m (3-ft) high silver
It is now used more for other of Antiquities baptismal font, which took the
official occasions and, like the Opened in 1794 in memory French silversmith Jean François
Royal Chapel, is a venue for of the murdered king, the Cousinet 11 years to make, is
summer concerts (see pp176–7). Museum of Antiquities 200 years old and is still used for
initially housed more than royal baptisms. Hanging in the
200 exhibits, mainly acquired Treasury is the only undamaged
during Gustav’s Italian journey tapestry among six dating from
in 1783–4 and then the 1560s, salvaged from the
supplemented with more 1697 fire.
purchases later.
In 1866 the museum’s
collection was moved to the Tre Kronor Museum
city’s National Museum (see In the oldest parts of the ruined
pp84–5). During the 1950s the Tre Kronor fortress, preserved
main gallery was renovated, under the north side of the royal
followed by the smaller galleries palace, is the Tre Kronor (Three
30 years later, which enabled Crowns) Museum. About half
the collection to be returned of a massive 12th-century
to its original setting. defensive wall and brick
The most prized exhibits are vaults from the 16th and 17th
in the main gallery, the best centuries provide a unique
known being the sculpture setting for the museum, which
The Hall of State, the most important of Endymion, the eternally illustrates the palace’s history
ceremonial room in the palace sleeping young shepherd and of almost 1,000 years.
lover of the Moon Goddess Two models of the Tre Kronor
Selene. The 18th-century fortress show changes made to
The Royal Chapel sculptor Johan Tobias Sergel is the fortress during the second
It took 50 years to build the represented by The Priestess, half of the 17th century and
Royal Palace, and a lot of effort ranked as the collection’s how it looked by the time of the
went into the French Rococo second most important piece. fire. Among items rescued from
interior decoration of the Royal She is flanked by two large the ashes are a schnapps glass,
Chapel. The work was carried candelabras. amber pots and bowls made
out largely by Carl Hårleman from mountain crystal.
under the supervision of
Nicodemus Tessin the Younger. The Treasury
As with the Hall of State, the co- Situated at the bottom of 56
operation between the two well-worn steps, below the Hall
produced a magnificent result, of State on the south side of the
enhanced by the contributions palace, is the entrance to the
of several foreign artists. The Treasury (Skattkammaren),
chapel was completed when where the State regalia, the
the palace reopened in 1754. most potent symbols of the
A number of remarkable monarchy, are kept.
artifacts have been added over On the rare occasions that
the centuries. The most recent King Erik XIV’s crown, sceptre,
was a group of six 17th-century- orb and the keys of the kingdom
style bronze crowns, as well as are taken out of their showcase, A glass bowl saved from the 1697 fire,
two crystal crowns. they are placed beside the displayed in the Tre Kronor Museum
54  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

2 Livrustkammaren 3 Kungliga
Slottsbacken 3. Map 4 C2. Tel 08-402 Myntkabinettet
30 30.  Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55, Slottsbacken 6. Map 4 C3. Tel 08-519
76. Open Jan–Apr, Sep–Dec: 553 00.  Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55,
11am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu); 76. Open 10am–5pm daily.
May–Jun: 11am–5pm daily; Jul–Aug: Closed public hols. 8 by
10am–6pm daily. 8 Eng: Jul–Aug. arrangement. & free on Mon. 7
&9^7= 0 - = ∑ myntkabinettet.se
∑ livrustkammaren.se
The Royal Coin Cabinet is a
Situated in the Royal Palace, museum holding a priceless
Livrustkammaren (The Royal collection of currency and
Armoury) is the oldest museum highlighting the history of
in Sweden. In 1628, Gustav II money from the 10th century
Adolf had a few costumes that to the present day – from the
had been stained with his little cowrie shell via the
blood during war preserved, so drachma and denarius to the The elegant Baroque garden in Tessinska
that they could be seen cash card of the 21st century. Palatset’s courtyard
and reflected upon here in The museum also gives an
the Royal Armoury. They were insight into the art of medal 4 Tessinska
displayed along with his design over the past 600 years Palatset
magnificent weapons and and shows both traditional
suits of armour, including those portrait medals and more Slottsbacken 4. Map 2 C3.
 Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55, 59, 76.
worn by his predecessors. modern examples like those
Closed to the public.
Formerly a monument that have been awarded to
to the Vasa kings, Nobel laureates.
the Royal Armoury Visitors can also see The Tessin Palace at Slotts-
grew to hold a the first Swedish backen is considered by many
collection com- coin, struck in the to be the most beautiful private
memorating five late 10th century residence north of Paris. It is
royal dynasties. by King Olof the best-preserved palace
Ceremonial Skötkonung. Other from Sweden’s era as a great
costumes and rarities include power in the 17th century
coaches from the royal Queen Kristina’s and was designed by and
stables are also on Sweden’s first coin, coin from 1644, for Tessin the Younger (1654–
display. struck in about AD 995 weighing 19.7 kg 1728), the nation’s most
The museum now (42 lb) and renowned architect.
exhibits artifacts from different reckoned to be the world’s Completed in 1697, the
cultural themes such as knights, heaviest coin. From the island building is located on a narrow
royal ceremonies and the of Yap, in Micronesia, the site, which widens out towards
history of dress, along with museum has acquired what a courtyard with a delightful
exhibits related to politics and is thought to be the world’s Baroque garden. The relatively
drama in the lives of the largest means of payment, a discreet façade with its beautiful
Swedish regents and across so-called “rai-stone”, which porch was inspired by the
European history more greets visitors in the foyer. exterior design of Roman
generally. In 1978, the collection The kids’ playroom is great palaces. The decor and garden
was returned to the Royal fun. Among its highlights are were influenced by Tessin’s time
Palace after many transfers over a pirate ship with a treasure in Paris and Versailles.
centuries between different chest of gold coins and a kitsch Tessin, who became a count
buildings in the capital. collection of piggy banks. and State Councillor, spent
large sums on the building’s
ornamentation. Sculptures and
paintings were provided by the
same French masters whose
work had graced the Royal
Palace. Later, however, his son,
Carl Gustaf, had to sell the
palace for financial reasons.
The building was acquired
by the City of Stockholm as a
residence for its Governor in
1773. In 1968 it became the
residence of the Governor of
The coronation carriage of King Adolf Fredrik and Queen Lovisa Ulrika in Livrustkammaren the County of Stockholm.
 G A M L A S TA N  55

5 Storkyrkan
Trångsund 1. Map 4 B3. Tel 08-723 30
16.  Gamla Stan. @ 2, 43, 55, 59, 76.
Open Sep–May: 9am–4pm; Jun: 9am–
5pm; Jul–Aug: 9am–6pm. 5 11am Sat
& Sun. 8 Eng: Jul–15 Aug: 10am– 1pm
Mon–Fri; to 2pm Sat & Sun (tour of the
tower: Jul–15 Aug: 2pm & 5pm). 7 ^
(during services). = ∑ stockholms
domkyrkoforsamling.se

Stockholm’s 700-year-old cathe-

dral is of great national religious
importance. It was from here that
the Swedish reformer Olaus Petri
(1493–1552) spread his Lutheran
message around the kingdom. It
is also used for royal ceremonies,
weddings and funerals.
A small village church was
built on this site in the 13th
century, probably by the city’s
founder Birger Jarl. It was
replaced in 1306 by a much
larger basilica, St Nicholas, and
has been enlarged and altered
over the centuries.
The Gothic character of the
interior, acquired in the 15th cen- Storkyrkan’s façade in the Italian Baroque style, seen from Slottsbacken
tury, was revealed in 1908, when,
during restoration work, plaster The cathedral houses some the Elder’s victory over the
was removed from the pillars, priceless artistic treasures, Danes in 1471 (see p17).
exposing the characteristic red including St George and the The Last Judgment (1696) is a
tiling. The late Baroque period Dragon, regarded as one of massive Baroque painting by
provided the so-called “royal the finest late Gothic works David Klöcker Ehrenstrahl. The
chairs” and the pulpit, while the of art in Northern Europe. 3.7-m (12-ft) high bronze can-
façade was adapted to bring it The sculpture, situated to delabra before the altar, likely to
into keeping with the rest of the the left of the altar, was carved be German, has adorned the
area around the Royal Palace. The from oak and moose horn cathedral for some 600 years.
66-m (216-ft) high tower, added by Lübeck sculptor Berndt One of the cathedral’s most
in 1743, has 4 bells, the largest Notke. Unveiled in 1489, it prized treasures is the silver
of which weighs about 6 tonnes. commemorates Sten Sture altar, which gave the interior a
completely new appearance in
the 1650s. It was a gift from the
diplomat Johan Adler Salvius.
The pews nearest to the
chancel, the “royal chairs”, were
designed by Nicodemus Tessin
the Younger in 1684 to be used
by royalty on special occasions.
In 1705, the pulpit was installed
above the grave of Olaus Petri.
On 20 April 1535, a light
phenomenon was observed
over Stockholm – six rings
with sparkling solar halos. The
Parhelion Painting (see p16),
recalling the event, hangs in
Storkyrkan and is thought to
be the oldest portrayal of the
capital. It shows the modest
skyline dominated by the
cathedral, at that time still
The sculpture St George and the Dragon by Bernt Notke (1489) in Storkyrkan the basilica of St Nicholas.
56  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

floor, the Swedish Academy

(closed to the public) holds its
ceremonial gatherings, a tradition
maintained since Gustav III gave
his inauguration speech in 1786.

7 Tyska Kyrkan
Svartmangatan 16. Map 4 B3.
Tel 08-411 11 88.  Gamla Stan.
@ 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76. Open 1 May–
15 Sep: 11am–3pm daily; 16 Sep–
30 Apr: 11am–3pm Wed, Fri & Sat.
Closed during services. 5 11am Sun,
The imposing Stock Exchange on the north side of Stortorget German. 8 by appt in Swedish &
German. 7 ∑ svenskakyrkan.se
6 Stortorget the red Schantzska Huset (No. 20)
and the narrow Seyfridtska Huset The German church is an
Map 4 B3.  Gamla Stan. @ 2, 3, 43,
were built in around 1650. The impressive reminder of the
53, 55, 76. Nobelmuseet Tel 08-534
Schantzska Huset remains almost total influence that
818 00. Open Sep–May: 11am–8pm
Tue, 11am–5pm Wed–Sun; Jun–Aug:
unchanged and has a lovely lime- Germany had over Stockholm
10am–8pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, stone porch adorned with figures during the 18th century. The
Midsummer eve (in Jun), 24, 25 & 31 of recumbent Roman warriors. Hanseatic League trading
Dec. 8 in English daily. 7 & 0 The artist Johan Wendelstam organization was in control of
= - ∑ nobelmuseum.se was responsible for most of the the Baltic and its ports, which
notable porches in the Old explains why the basic layout of
It was not until 1778, when the Town. The 17th-century gable Gamla Stan resembled that of
Stock Exchange (Börsen) was on the Grilska Huset (No. 3) is Lübeck. Germany’s political
completed, that Stortorget, the also worth closer study. influence was only broken after
square in the heart of the Old The decision to construct the the Stockholm Bloodbath and
Town, acquired a more uniform Stock Exchange was taken in Gustav Vasa’s accession to the
appearance. Its northern side 1667, but many wars delayed the throne in 1523 (see p18), but its
had previously been taken up by start of the building by 100 years. cultural and mercantile
several buildings that served as a The architect was the talented influence remained strong, as
town hall. Since the early Middle Erik Palmstedt (1741–1803), who German merchants and
Ages the square had been a also created the decorative cover craftsmen settled in the city.
natural meeting point, with a for the old well. However, 200 The church’s parish assembly,
well and market place, lined with years of trading on the floor of which today has some 2,000
wooden stalls on market days. the Stock Exchange came to an members, was founded in
A pillory belonging to the jail, end in 1990. Opened in 2001 to 1571. The present twin-nave
which was once sited on nearby mark the centenary of the Nobel church was built in 1638–42,
Kåkbrinken, used to stand on Prize (see p70), the Nobelmuseet as an extension of a smaller
the square. It is now in the Town explores the work and ideas of church that the parish had used
Hall on Kungsholmen (see p114). 880 creative minds by means since 1576.
The medieval layout is clear of short films, exhibitions and In German Late Renaissance
on Stortorget’s west side, where original artifacts. On the upper and Baroque style, the interior
has a royal gallery, added in
1672 for German members of
The Stockholm Bloodbath
Stortorget is intimately linked
with the Stockholm Bloodbath of
November 1520. The Danish King
Kristian II besieged the Swedish
Regent, Sten Sture the Younger,
until he capitulated, and the
Swedes chose Kristian as their
king. He promised an amnesty
and ordered a three-day feast at
Tre Kronor fortress. Near the end
of the festivities, the revellers were
suddenly shut in and arrested for
heresy. The next day more than 80
noblemen and Stockholm citizens Detail of a painting of the
were beheaded in the square. Bloodbath (1524) The royal gallery in the 17th-century
Tyska Kyrkan
 G A M L A S TA M  57

the royal household. The pulpit Town, and is usually

(1660) in ebony and alabaster is thronging with people –
unique in Sweden, and the altar, tourists and locals –
from the 1640s, is covered with shopping or strolling.
beautiful paintings surrounded Starting at Mynttorget
by sculptures of the apostles in the north, where the
and evangelists. Chancery Office (Kansli-
The sculptures on the south huset) and Lejonbacken
porch by Jobst Hennen date are, the lively and
from 1643 and show Jesus, atmospheric street finish-
Moses and three figures por- es at Järntorget in the
traying Faith, Hope and Love. south, where the export of
iron was once controlled.
Alongside is Bancohuset,
which served as the head-
quarters of the State Bank
from 1680 to 1906.
The building at No. 7
has been used by the
Swedish Parliament since
the mid-1990s. Its late
19th-century façade has
a distinctive southern Västerlånggatan, Gamla Stan’s most popular
European influence. shopping street
No. 27 was built by and
for Erik Palmstedt, who also About 100 years later the
designed the Stock Exchange majestic-looking Post Office was
and the well at Stortorget. built, incorporating parts of the
Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, the narrowest street No. 29 is a very venerable 17th-century buildings already
in the city building, dating from the there. Stockholm’s only Post
early 15th century. The Office until 1869, it was
8 Mårten Trotzigs original pointed Gothic turned into the Postal
arches were revealed Museum in 1906.
Gränd during restoration Letters have
Map 4 C4.  Gamla Stan. @ 2, 3, 43, in the 1940s. been sent in Sweden
53, 55, 76. No. 33 is a good since 1636, and the
example of how museum’s permanent
At only 90 cm (35 inches) wide, new materials and exhibits include a
Mårten Trotzigs Gränd is the techniques in the Mauritian stamp in portrayal of early
city’s narrowest street, and late 19th century made the Postmuseum “peasant postmen”
climbing up the 36 steps it possible to fit large fighting the angry
gives a good idea of how shop windows into old houses. Åland Sea in their boat Simpan.
different parts of the Old Town The cast-iron columns, which Also on display is the first post
vary so much in height and can be seen in many other bus, which ran in northern
how tightly packed together places, also date from this period. Sweden in the early 1920s.
the houses are. No. 68, Von der Lindeska The collection includes no
Mårten Trotzigs Gränd is named House, has a majestic fewer than four million stamps,
after a German merchant called 17th-century façade and a among which are the first
Traubzich, who owned two beautiful porch with sculptures Swedish stamps, produced in
houses here at the end of the of Neptune and Mercury. 1855. Also on display is the
16th century. After being fenced “Penny Black”, the world’s first
off at both ends for 100 years, stamp (dating from 1840), and
the street was reopened in 1945. 0 Postmuseum some stamps issued by
Mauritius in 1847.
Lilla Nygatan 6. Map 4 B3. Tel 010-436
The museum library holds
44 39.  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53.
9 Västerlånggatan Open 11am–4pm Tue–Sun, Sep–Apr,
a large collection of literature
Map 4 B3.  Gamla Stan. @ 2, 3, 43, also Wed 4–7pm. 8 by arrangement. on philately and postal history.
70=&- Among the many interactive
53, 55, 59, 76.
∑ postmuseum.se displays and exhibits, there is
Once a main road outside the also a charming workshop,
city proper, built along parts An attraction in itself, the The Little Post Office, where
of the original town wall, Postmuseum building takes up children can discover what
Västerlånggatan now runs a whole area bought by the it was like to work in a 1920s
through the heart of the Old Swedish Post Office in 1720. post office.
58  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

q Riddarholms-
kyrkan
Birger Jarls Torg. Map 4 A3. Tel 08-402
61 30.  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53.
Open 15 May–13 Sep: 10am–5pm
daily; 14 Sep–29 Nov: 10am–4pm Sat
& Sun. 8 Eng: noon. Closed 30 Nov–
14 May. 8 ^ 7 &

This church on the island of

Riddarholmen is best known as a
place for royal burials. Its interior
is full of ornate sarcophagi and
worn gravestones, and in front
of the altar are the tombs of the
medieval kings Karl Knutsson Wrangelska Palatset, a royal residence after the Tre Kronor fire of 1697
and Magnus Ladulås.
Built on the site of the late sledge from his porphyry work- the King’s House, and it was here
13th-century Greyfriars abbey, shops in the Älvdalen region in in 1697 that the 15-year-old Karl
founded by Ladulås, the northern Sweden. XII took the oath of office after
majestic brick church was Particularly moving are the the death of his father. Three
gradually enlarged over the graves of royal children who years later the young king left his
centuries. After a serious fire met an early death, including palace to go to war; he would
in 1835, the church acquired the many small tin coffins that never return to Stockholm.
its present lattice-work, surround the last resting place Gustav III was born here, ten
cast-iron tower. of Gustav II Adolf and his queen, years before the Royal Family
The church is surrounded Maria Eleonora. moved back to the new Royal
by ornate burial vaults, which Palace in 1754.
date back as far as the 17th The Court of Appeal now uses
century. The coffins rest on a w Wrangelska the whole building, where in
lower level with space for a Palatset 1792 the assassin of Gustav III
memorial above. The most Birger Jarls Torg 16. Map 4 A3.
was manacled in the dungeons
recent was built in 1858–60  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to during his trial.
for the Bernadotte dynasty. the public. The court also rents the
The vaults contain the remains Rosenhane Palace (Birger Jarls
of all the Swedish sovereigns Only two parts of the Torg 10) and the Hessenstein
from Gustav II Adolf in the 17th fortification work that Gustav House (Birger Jarls Torg 2),
century to the present day with Vasa undertook around 1530 which was built in 1630 by
two exceptions: Queen Kristina still remain – Birger Jarl’s Tower Bengt Bengtsson Oxenstierna.
was buried at St Peter’s in and the southernmost tower of It was named after Fredrik
Rome in 1689 and Gustav VI what became the Wrangel Wilhelm von Hessenstein,
Adolf, who died in 1973, was Palace. Built as a residence for the son of Fredrik I and his
interred at Haga (see pp124–5). the nobleman Lars Sparre in lover Hedvig Taube. Later it
The most magnificent 1629, it was extensively was occupied by Carl Gustav
sarcophagus is that of the rebuilt only a few decades Tessin, son of the Royal Palace
19th-century king, Karl XIV later. The owner by then was architect and a leading cultural
Johan, which had to Carl Gustaf Wrangel, a field figure in his day.
be towed here by marshal during the Thirty
Years’ War, who chose
Jean de la Vallée as his
architect. The result was
Stockholm’s largest palace
in private hands.
In 1693 Wrangel lost
many valuable possessions
in a major fire, and four
years later his palace
became a royal residence
when the Royal Family
moved to Riddarholmen
after the Tre Kronor
fortress was ravaged by
Riddarholmskyrkan with the external burial vault by another fire. The palace The city founder Birger Jarl’s statue on the
Tessin and Hårleman then became known as square that bears his name
 G A M L A S TA N  59

e Evert Taubes Stockholm by Birger

Terrass Jarl. The story goes that
the inhabitants of the
Norra Riddarholmshamnen. Map 4
town of Sigtuna floated
A3.  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53.
a log on Lake Mälaren
A statue of Evert Taube (1890– after a fire in 1187. It
1976), the much-loved drifted on to the shore
troubadour and ballad writer, where the tower now
stands on the terrace below stands, and it was this
Wrangelska Palatset looking log – or “stock” in
out over the waters of Swedish – that gave
Riddarfjärden. In an ideal the capital its name.
position, given the poet’s close A famous painting in
links to the sea, the bronze Storkyrkan (see p16),
sculpture was created by Willy dating from 1535,
Gordon in 1990. shows the waves break-
Close by, Christer ing over the rocks
Berg’s beneath the tower. The 16th-century Birger Jarls Torn
Solbåten
(the Sun Boat), Fredrik Stenbock and his wife
an elegant t Stenbockska Katarina de la Gardie, and the
sculpture in Palatset family’s coat of arms can be seen
granite, was above the porch. The palace
Birger Jarls Torg 4. Map 4 A3.
unveiled in 1966.  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to
underwent major extension
Inspired by the the public.
work in 1863 when it was taken
shape of a shell, over by the State Archives. Then
from some Both externally and internally in 1969–71 it was restored as the
Bronze statue of angles it looks the Stenbock Palace is the headquarters of the Supreme
Evert Taube like a sail. best-preserved building on Administrative Court.
Riddarholmen. It was built in the Many leading Swedish and
1640s by the State Councillor foreign architects and artists have
r Birger Jarls Torn all played their part in
Norra Riddarholmshamnen. Map 4 A3 enhancing the palace’s
 Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to outstanding appear-
the public. ance. The roof beams
and flooring are from
When the St Klara convent on the Stenbock period,
Norrmalm was pulled down in and the staircase was
1527 following the Reformation, designed by Nicode-
Gustav Vasa used some of its mus Tessin the Elder.
stonework to build a defensive Several beautiful
installation on Riddarholmen. ceilings are the work
The northernmost of the two of the masters of
towers came to be known as stucco, Carlo
Birger Jarls Torn in the 19th Carove (c.1672) and
century, when some thought Giuseppe Marchi
it had been erected 600 years (1704), and there is
earlier. The tower has been a cabinet created
linked with one of the legends Stenbockska Palatset, the best-preserved nobleman’s by Rococo architect
that surround the founding of residence on Riddarholmen Carl Hårleman.

1697–1754 The 1866–67 The Par-

1250s The island, 1527 Following the Late 17th century The royal family takes liament building
then called Kidskär, Reformation, the prosperity of over Wrangelska and Hebbe House
is a cattle-grazing monks are evicted the nobility Palatset after Tre are rebuilt for new
area outside from the island starts to diminish Kronor fortress is two-chamber
the settlement destroyed by fire Parliament

1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900

1625–35 Land is donated 1830s 1905

1270–85 The Greyfriars’ to noblemen and Hornska Parliament
abbey is founded. Kidskär distinguished officers. House used moves to new
is renamed Gråmunke- The name is changed to for Parliament building on
holmen. The abbey church Riddarholmen by priests and Helgeands-
is used for royal burials Wrangelska Palatset burghers holmen
60  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

1753. In 1730 the building

became the property of the city
and served as the City Hall until
1915. After that, there was little
interest taken in the palace until
renovation planned by the
architect Ivar Tengbom was
begun in the late 1940s. It had
even been suggested that the
building should be demolished,
but public opinion ensured
that it remained intact.

Riddarhuset, built in the 17th century in lavish Dutch Baroque style

i Riksdagshuset
y Riddarhuset double staircase, which leads up Riksgatan 3A. Map 4 B2. Tel 08-786 40
Riddarhustorget 10. Map 4 A3.
to the Knights’ Room. This has a 00.  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53.
Tel 08-723 39 90.  Gamla Stan. masterly ceiling painting by David Open tours & meetings in the
@ 3, 53. Open 11am–noon Klöcker Ehrenstrahl (1628–98) and Chamber. 8 ring for details on tours
Mon–Fri. & 8 by arrangement. Riddarhuset’s foremost treasure, a of the building & art works. 7 =
∑ riddarhuset.se sculpted ebony chair that dates ∑ riksdagen.se
from 1623. The walls are covered
Often regarded as one of by some 2,320 coats of arms. The Parliament Building
Stockholm’s most beautiful (Riksdagshuset) and State
buildings, Riddarhuset Bank (Riksbank) on Helgeands-
(House of Nobility) stands u Bondeska holmen were inaugurated in
on Riddarhustorget, which as Palatset 1905 and 1906 respectively.
late as the mid-19th century Riddarhustorget 8. Map 4 B3.
Since 1983, when Parliament
was still the city’s centre.  Gamla Stan. @ 3, 53. Closed to returned here after 12 years at
Built in 1641–7 on the initiative the public. Sergels Torg, the two buildings
of the State Chancellor, it was have been combined and
designed by the architects Simon The seat of the Supreme Court enlarged. Parliament also
and Jean de la Vallée, Heinrich since 1949, the Bonde Palace occupies five premises in Gamla
Wilhelm and Justus Vingboons. was created in 1662–73 by Stan. All the buildings are
The nobility, whose privileges architects Jean de la Vallée and connected by underground
were granted in 1280, then Nicodemus Tessin the passages and together amount
had a base for meetings Elder in the style of a to 130,000 sq m (1,400,000 sq
and events. The building French town house. The ft), with a staff force of about
is still used as a focal year previously, the 600, plus 300 in the political
point for the nobility, State Treasurer Gustav parties’ offices.
hosting the triennial Bonde had bought Parliamentary debates can
Assembly of Nobles. the site opposite be watched from the public
The building is a The motto at Riddarhuset to build a gallery, which holds up to
supreme example of Riddarhuset palace with the idea of 500 spectators. There are guided
Dutch Baroque design renting out most of it. tours of the buildings every
and colouring. Over the entrance Since then the Bonde Palace day during the summer and
on the northern façade is the has had several owners and was only at weekends in winter.
nobility’s motto Arte et Marte (Art damaged by fires in 1710 and Visitors should use the public
and War) with Minerva, Goddess entrance at Riksgatan 3A.
of Art and Science, and Mars, From the gallery level is a
God of War, on either side. striking view from as far as
The sculptures on the Gustav Adolfs Torg to Riddar-
vaulted roof symbolize the holmen. The main chamber
knightly virtues. On the south has benches of Swedish birch
side is Nobilitas (Nobility) holding and wall panelling in Finnish
a small Minerva and spear. She is birch, carved in Norway. A
flanked by Studium (Diligence) large tapestry, Memory of a
and Valor (Bravery). Facing the Landscape (1983), by Elisabeth
north is the male equivalent, Hasselberg-Olsson, covers
Honor, flanked by Prudentia (Prud- 54 sq m (581 sq ft) of wall,
ence) and Fortitudo (Strength). weighs 100 kg (220 lb) and
The interior is equally took 3,500 hours to make.
impressive. The lower hall is Bondeska Palatset, now the seat of the The old two-chamber
dominated by a magnificent Supreme Court Parliament’s beautifully
 G A M L A S TA N  61

renovated rooms are now used o Medeltidsmuseum

for meetings of the majority
Strömparterren, Norrbro.
party. The former Upper House Map 4 B2. Tel 08-508 317 90.
has three paintings by Otte  Kungsträdgården. @ 43, 62.
Sköld (1894–1958), and in the Open noon–5pm Tue & Thu–Sun;
other chamber there are works noon–8pm Wed. 8 7 & ^ =
by Axel Törneman and Georg ∑ medeltidsmuseet.stockholm.se
Pauli, who realized Törneman’s
sketches after his death. The fascinating Medieval
Between the chambers is a Museum is built around
45-m (148-ft) long hall with an the capital’s archaeological
elegant display of coats of arms, remains, mainly parts of
paintings and chandeliers. The the city wall that date
Finance Committee meets in from the 1530s. They were
the old oak-panelled library The chamber where the 349 Members of found during intensive
surrounded by old prints and Parliament meet archaeological research in
Jugendstil lamps. 1978–80, which unearthed
Facing the old entrance at of marble. The present entrance a number of remarkable
Norrbro, the magnificent stair- was the State Bank’s main hall finds from Stockholm’s
well still retains its colouring from until 1976. It has magnificent medieval history.
1905. Other impressive survivors columns, too, made from polished Situated, for the most
from opulent days include eight granite, and some outstanding part, below ground level, the
columns, a floor, steps and paintings from the Parliamentary museum also includes artifacts
balusters all in various types collection of 3,000 works. from other parts of the city.
Among them is the 22-m
(72-ft) long Riddarholm ship
that was discovered off
Riddarholmen in 1930 and
dates from the 1520s.
The museum provides a
good picture of Stockholm’s
early days. From the entrance,
a 350-year-old tunnel leads
into a reconstructed medieval
world. There is a pillory in
the square and the gallows
hill with the tools of the
executioner’s grisly trade.
The new Parliament building, with the older building behind The old harbour has been
rebuilt. Boathouses, complete
with salt barrels, seal skins
Parliamentary Wanderings and dried fish, as well as
Sweden’s first Parliament was opened in the 1860s on Riddarholmen authentic nautical smells,
in the combined properties of Fleming House and Hebbe House. tell the story of fishing and
From 1835–65, commoners – priests, burghers and farmers – met in overseas trade. The spruce
Fleming House, which became known as the “House of Commons”, wreath hanging outside the
while the noblemen sat in nearby Riddarhuset. Situated behind wine cellar demonstrates that
Riddarholmskyrkan at Birger Jarls Torg 5, Fleming House was supplies of wine and beer have
constructed on the site of the Greyfriars abbey, after the monks were arrived from the Continent. The
forced to flee due to the Reformation in the 16th century (see p59), large house is built from 6,000
and remains of the huge abbey original bricks. The well-tended
can still be seen in the cellar.
herb garden includes lavender,
A new base for Parliament, adapt-
roses, tansy and sage. Herbs
ed for the needs of a two-chamber
legislature, was inaugurated on were important in the Middle
Helgeandsholmen in 1905. When a Ages for their medicinal quali-
single chamber was established in ties as well as their use in food.
1971, a lack of space meant that The museum runs regular
Parliament had to move to the themed exhibitions with a
newly built Kulturhuset (see p69) medieval emphasis and
on Sergels Torg. It returned to holds a programme of lectures
Helgeandsholmen in 1983 into an and educational activities for
extended and reconstructed “Mother Svea” above the old children. The shop here sells
Parliament building. Parliament building books on the Middle Ages,
plus postcards and jewellery.
 STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA  63

CITY
The area known as City today was where, in commercial centre of Stockholm. A hub for
the mid-18th century, the first stone-built public transport and banking, City is the place
houses and palaces outside Gamla Stan for the best department stores and shopping
started to appear for Stockholm’s burghers malls, exclusive boutiques and nightspots.
and nobility. After World War II, the run-down The centre also has some beautiful parks and
buildings around Hötorget were demolished pleasant squares serving as popular meeting
to form what is now Sergels Torg; many places. The unique landscape surrounding
homes were replaced by rather dreary Stockholm permeates even City – here and
office blocks. there appear unexpected glimpses of the
In recent years the area has been livening water with its bustling boat life and a string
up after dark to become the heart and of anglers along the embankments.

Sights at a Glance
Museums t Centralbadet Restaurants pp166–71
o Kungliga Biblioteket
4 Dansmuseet 1 Belgobaren
h Hovstallet
5 Medelhavsmuseet 2 Cloud Nine
8 Konstakademien Theatres 3 Ekstedt
u Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet 3 Kungliga Operan 4 Griffins Steakhouse
f Armémuseum e Konserthuset 5 Grill
g Swedish Museum of y Dansens Hus 6 Grodan
Performing Arts j Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 7 Hattori Sushi Devil
k Hallwylska museet Churches 8 Jamie’s Italian
Squares 9 Nalen
2 Jacobs Kyrka
10 Operakällaren
1 Kungsträdgården 9 Klara Kyrka
11 Operakällarens Bakficka
q Sergels Torg i Adolf Fredriks Kyrka
12 PA and Co
w Hötorget d Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka
13 Riche
p Stureplan Markets & Malls 14 Rolfs Kök
Public Buildings a Sturegallerian and Sturebadet 15 Sturehof
6 Arvfurstens Palats s Östermalmshallen 16 Supper
7 Rosenbad 17 Teatergrillen
AN
0 Kulturhuset and Stockholms SG
AT 18 Tjabba Thai
TU

AN
Stadsteater 19 Zink Grill
LEG

DM RUNEB E R G SG.
ERIKSBERGSG.

RÅ
.

r Kungstornen Rådmans- AT
AN ERIKSBERGS- 20 Wedholms Fisk
ENGELBREKTSGATAN

PLAN
gatan N É R G
BIR

G
TE
DÖ

GE

AN
SV

AT
BEL

RJ

SG
EA

AN HUMLEGÅRDEN
A
NSG

M .
N

ÅD
RL

RG
ATA

R NÉ
SG

TEG
ATA
VÄ

REG ERIN GSG

UP

REG
AT

TEGNÉR-
VÄ

G
PLA

AN

LUNDEN
EN

ATA
DR
S

STU
TM
DA

OG
ND

OT

YRK ENGELBREKTS-
AN

SK
LA

SG

TN

RIK PLAN
ED
GA

NA

AT

ING

F FR HU
ATA N

OL
AN
GA
TA

ML
G.

N TA
N AD EGÅ
ATA GA
N

TA

RDS
ÉRG L L IN Hötorget
NO RRL AND

N GA
ATA
N

GN WA G TA
TA N
N

TOR US ÖSTER-
TE

GA N
TA

H KUNGSGATA
RE EV

SGA N S MALMS-
TAN AR ME
GA
TU GR

B AL TORG STO
FP RGA
N

O
ATA

OL TAN
N

KLA
BIB LIO TEK

ATA
SGATAN

RA
NORRMALM Hötorget Östermalms-
SVEA

ROG

STR
LLEG

NORRA torg
NYB
AN

BANTORGET
AN R ID
SER

SIBY

AT
MALMSK
DS

VÄG

TA N

DA
VA
Ba

SG MU ELS G. RG
GEL
LED

SG .

NG MÄ STE R SA .
rn

SA

KU
ÖST

IG A
GAT
hu

EN
EN

GA

.
SMÅLANDSG
svi

RA

N
LER
AN

ATA
ILLNA
ke

LSG
TA

NORR-
UE
T IL

NYBRO-
n

MALMS-
N

AM
JÄR

DSGATAN

VÄP
RS PLAN
AR

Kungs-
STE GATAN TORG NA
NV
TE

HA MN STR RG.
bron MÄ
ÄG
RM

AN
REGERINGSG

KUN

T-Centralen T-Centralen DV
SG
INA

ÄG
BLE

TAN EN
GSTR

City-
L

GA
KH

SL

DR GATA

terminalen BERGS
ING
OL

OT

BRUNKE-
ÄDG

RA
MS

AN

KLA
TN N

BERGS-
ATAN
TER

ING

N TORG
ÅRD

U KTE T-Centralen
RA

IAD N N Kungs-
SG.

V TA
S

GS GA ATA
SEN

BER TTU SG trädgården KARL

Kl

RA VA ULE
ar

XII:S
KLA E RK
a

Stockholm C H TORG
GUSTAV
ADOLFS
Sj

TAN
ö

A TORG Ström-
DSG Norr- bron
FRE
Stadshus- TEGEL- m bro
BACKEN trö
bron rrs
No
Riks-
Vasa- bron
Central- bron
bron 0 metres 400

0 yards 400 See also Street Finder

pp206–18

Monument to Gustav II Adolf in Gustav Adolfs Torg For map symbols see back flap
64  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Kungsträdgården

With a history going back to the 15th century, the King’s
Garden (Kungsträdgården) has long been the city’s most
popular meeting place and recreational centre. Both visitors
and Stockholmers gather here for summer concerts and
festivals, and in the winter months to make the most of the ice
skating rink. Close by is Sweden House, where the tourist office
is based, and around the park is a wealth of shops, boutiques,
churches, museums and restaurants. A short walk takes you to
Gustav Adolfs Torg, flanked by the Royal Opera House and
other stately buildings, including the Swedish Foreign Office.

Gustav II Adolf’s
equestrian statue,
designed by
L’Archevêque,
was unveiled in 1796.

5 . Medelhavsmuseet
This museum near Gustav
Adolfs Torg has vast
collections from prehistoric
cultures around the
Mediterranean area.
N
ATA
GSG
ERIN

F R E D S G AT A N
REG

Sagerska Palatset

S T R Ö M G AT A N
G U S TAV A D O L F S
TO R G
NORRBRO

ST
RÖ
MG
AT
AN

Operakällaren
(see p167)

3 . Kungliga Operan
Built in 1898 with a
magnificently ornate
4 Arvfurstens Palats auditorium, the Royal
The Swedish Foreign Office is based Opera House replaced
in this palace, built for Gustav III’s an earlier one from the
sister Sofia Albertina in 1794. time of Gustav III.
 CITY  65

The NK clock,
part of the city
skyline. VASASTAN

CITY

Sergels Torg

GAMLA STAN
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 2, 3 & 4
HA
MN
GA
TA
N
N
ATA
SG
RD
GÅ
ÄD
TR
RA
ST

N
ATA
VÄ

DSG

1 Kungsträdgården
GÅR

The King’s kitchen garden was sited here in the 15th

century. Today Kungsträdgården is one of the most
RÄD

popular recreation centres in the city. Events are

GST

held in the park throughout the year, and include

concerts during the summer months and a
KUN

Christmas market in the winter.

Statue of Karl XIII

Queen Kristina’s summer

house by the cobble-
stoned Lantmäteribacken.

2 Jacobs Kyrka
Started in 1580, the church was
consecrated in 1643. Its stone
porches are beautifully crafted.

Molin’s fountain

0 metres 100

Karl XII’s statue by 0 yards 100

Molin was built in

1868 to mark the
Key
150th anniversary
of the King’s death. Suggested route
66  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

1 Kungsträdgården dance performances. Many of wanted to provide two new

Map 4 B1.  Kungsträdgården.
the events are free and enjoyed churches in Norra Malmen, as
@ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76. by thousands of Stockholmers, the area was then called, and
who arrive with their picnics work to build the churches of
Once the royal kitchen garden and blankets. The park also St Jacob and St Klara (see p68)
in the 15th century, the “King’s hosts numerous exhibitions, started in 1580. St Jacob’s was
Garden” today is a popular food festivals, and live street consecrated first, in 1643. It has
meeting place for Stockholmers theatre. Local radio stations also been restored several times
– with something for everyone hold big festivals featuring a since then, in some cases rather
all year round. The park, which variety of home-grown and clumsily. However, several
is Stockholm's oldest, is in the international artists. In August, valuable items have been
heart of the city and encircled when the annual Gospel Choir preserved, including a baptis-
by avenues. At the Strömgatan Festival takes place, audiences mal font from 1634 and some
end of the park is a square, are invited to sing along, church silver, as well as porches
named after Karl XII, whatever their musical by stonemasons Henrik Blom
with Johan Peter abilities. At the and Hans Hebel.
Molin’s statue of the garden's centre is a The organ’s façade was
warrior king, unveiled in large cirular plaza, and created by the architect Carl
1868, in the centre. The during the winter months Hårleman, and the large paint-
statue was commissioned this is transformed into a ing on the west wall of the
to mark the 150th skating rink that attracts southern nave is by Fredrik
anniversary of the king's children and grown-ups Westin, Sweden’s most dis-
death. In Kungsträdgården alike. There is also a tinguished historical painter
itself there is a statue of Molin’s Christmas market held in in the early 19th century.
Karl XIII (1809–18) by Erik fountain the park every weekend
Göthe. Also here is Molin’s throughout December.
famous fountain, made from Kungsträdgården has several
gypsum in 1866 and cast in outdoor cafés, art galleries,
bronze seven years later. The including the Galleri Doktor
fountain is inhabited by Glas, and restaurants at the
mythological characters. two ends of the garden.
During Erik XIV’s reign in the
16th century, the kitchen
garden was transformed into a 2 Jacobs Kyrka
formal Renaissance garden, and
Västra Trädgårdsgatan 2. Map 4 B1.
Queen Kristina had a stone Tel 08-723 30 38.  Kungsträdgården.
summer house built in it. The @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76. Open 10am–5pm
17th-century house still stands Mon–Wed; 11am–6pm Thu, Fri &
at Västra Trädgårdsgatan 2, next Sun; 10am–5pm Sat. 5 (in English) Altar in Jacobs Kyrka, partly dating from
to the cobble-stoned Sun. Concerts 5pm Fri. the 17th century
Lantmäteribacken. 8 by arrangement. 7
Each year during the summer
months nearly 150 events are Even in medieval times there 3 Kungliga Operan
staged in Kungsträdgården. The was a small chapel where Gustav Adolfs Torg. Map 4 B1. Tel
covered, outdoor stage here is Kungsträdgården now lies. 08-791 44 00.  Kungsträdgården.
the setting for various open-air Dedicated to St Jacob, the @ 2, 43, 55, 62, 65, 71, 76. Ticket Office
concerts; Parkteatern, an patron saint of wayfarers, the Open noon–5pm Mon–Fri, noon–
outdoor theatre group, also chapel and another modest- 3pm Sat. 8 by arrangement. 7
puts on shows including sized church in the area were - = ∑ operan.se
musical productions, children's destroyed by King Gustav Vasa
theatre, flamenco and other in the 16th century. Johan III Opera has been performed in
Sweden since 18 January 1773,
when a production was staged
at Bollhuset at Slottsbacken.
Kungliga Operan (The Royal
Opera House) on Gustav Adolfs
Torg was inaugurated on 30
September 1782, but by the
late 19th century it had
become a fire hazard. The
architect Axel Anderberg
was commissioned to design
a new opera house, which was
View of Kungsträdgården, towards Hamngatan transferred to the State in 1898
 CITY  67

Mediterranean rub shoulders

in Medelhavsmuseet (Museum
of Mediterranean and Near
East Antiquities). Its many
treasures include a large group
of terracotta figures
discovered by archaeologists
on Cyprus in the 1930s.
Models made of unusual
materials, such as cork, show
how houses were once
constructed, and the museum
also has a fascinating gold
room. The Islamic collections
are complemented by tem-
The 28-m (92-ft) long gold foyer at Kungliga Operan porary exhibitions.
The museum is housed in a
from a consortium founded by Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz, designer former bank, which was
the financier K A Wallenberg. of the original opera house. originally built in the 17th
The colouring of the building The palace and its decor are century for Field Marshal
in late Renaissance style is in shining examples of the Gustav Horn, a decorated
keeping with the Royal Gustavian style, thanks commander in the Thirty Years’
Palace and Parliament to the contributions War. The stairwell, dating from
building, and some of artists and 1905, and the peristyles and
details of the craftsmen such as colonnade around the upper
architecture are Louis Masreliez and part of the hall are well worth a
common to all three. Georg Haupt and visit in themselves.
The beautiful their pupils Gustaf
staircase with ceiling Adolf Ditzinger, Johan
paintings by Axel Gold ceiling in Tobias Sergel and 6 Dansmuseet
Jungstedt was Kungliga Operan Gottlieb Iwersson. In
Drottninggatan 17. Map 4 A1.
inspired by the Paris 1906 the building
Tel 08-441 76 51.  Centralen,
Opera. The same artist’s portrait was taken over by the Swedish Kungsträdgården. @ 52. Open
of Oscar II hangs in the 28-m Foreign Office. 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, noon–4pm
(92-ft) long gold foyer, where Nearby is the elegant Sat & Sun. 8 7 - =
Carl Larsson was responsible for Sagerska Palatset (1894) in ∑ dansmuseet.se
the decorative paintings. The French Renaissance style, which
wings at either side of the stage is used by the Prime Minister as In 2013 the Dance Museum
have been kept, as has the an official residence. moved into new premises on
width of the proscenium arch Drottninggatan, in a former
(11.4 m/37 ft). Also saved was J bank with a grand exterior.
T Sergel’s group of angels, The museum was originally
holding the national coat of founded in Paris in 1933 by
arms, above the stage. An angel the Swedish aristocrat and
in Vicke Andrén’s ceiling noted art collector Rolf de
painting is holding a sketch of Maré (1888–1964). He was also
the Opera House. the founder and artistic
director of the world-
renowned Ballets Suédois.
4 Arvfurstens The museum’s collection of
Palats Arvfurstens Palats (1794), now the exhibits reflects all aspects of
Gustav Adolfs Torg 1. Map 4 B1.
Swedish Foreign Office dance – costumes and masks,
 Kungsträdgården. @ 43, 62, 65. scenery sketches, art and
Closed to the public. posters, books and documents.
5 Medelhavs- Temporary displays are
Opposite the Royal Opera museet organized every year. Apart
House, on the other side of Fredsgatan 2. Map 4 B1. Tel 08-519
from the exhibition halls, there
Gustav Adolfs Torg, stands 550 50.  Kungsträdgården. @ 3, is also a Study Centre, which
Arvfurstens Palats (Prince’s 52, 53, 62, 65. Open noon–8pm Tue– boasts a large collection of
Palace), built for Gustav III’s sister Fri, noon–5pm Sat & Sun. 8 7 - books and DVDs. The museum
Sofia Albertina and inaugurated = ∑ medelhavsmuseet.se also has a French bistro and a
in 1794. She commissioned the shop, in which Sweden’s
architect Erik Palmstedt to carry Gods and people from pre- largest collection of dance
out the work. He was a pupil of historic cultures around the DVDs is for sale.
68  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

1897 by the architect Erik

Lallerstedt. Its present look ties in
with the Royal Opera House (see
p66) and the Royal Palace (see
pp50–53), whose architect Tessin
the Younger had a vision of this
area as an extension of his work.
Traces of the older buildings
can still be seen. The interior of the
small meeting room was design-
ed by Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz
around 1780, and two tiled
stoves from the same period
have been preserved, plus the
main porch facing Jakobsgatan.

Rosenbad, home of the Government and City Council committees

7 Rosenbad 8 Konstakademien
Rosenbad 4. Map 4 A2. Fredsgatan 12. Map 4 A2. Tel 08-23 29
 Kungsträdgården. @ 3, 53, 62, 65. 45.  T-centralen, T- Kungsträdgården.
Closed to the public. @ 3, 53, 62, 65. Open 11am –5pm
Tue –Fri, noon– 4pm Sat & Sun. 7
Since 1981, the Rosenbad entrance at Jakobsgatan 27C. -
complex – a collection of
palatial buildings overlooking The art collections of
the Strömmen channel – has Konstakademien (Royal Academy
housed the Swedish of Fine Arts) reflect more than 250 Interior of Klara Kyrka with decor by Olle
Government and the Prime years of paintings and sculptures, Hjortzberg
Minister’s private office in mostly by past and present mem-
three internally linked sites. bers. Today the Royal Academy 9 Klara Kyrka
Three of the late 19th has around 150 members. There Klarabergsgatan 37. Map 2 C4.
century’s most notable are almost 800 sculptures, most Tel 08-411 73 24.  T-centralen
architects were commissioned of them plaster casts that were @ 52, 59, 65. Open 10am–5pm
to design these buildings. The once used in drawing classes. Sun–Fri, 5–7:30pm Sat. 5 11am Sun.
Venetian-style palace along They range from Michelangelo’s 7-
Strömgatan was the last one to enormous Moses to small plant
be added, in 1904. Designed by ornaments intended as inspira- The convent of St Klara stood on
Ferdinand Boberg (1860–1916), tion for interiors and design. the site of the present church
it used to house private Between Fredsgatan and and cemetery until 1527, when
apartments, a bank and a Jakobsgatan, the imposing corner it was pulled down on the
popular restaurant, traces of house was designed by Tessin the orders of Gustav Vasa. Later, his
which survive in the Elder in the early 1670s. The Royal son Johan III commissioned a
ornamentation of the open Academy moved in while under new church, completed in 1590.
loggia facing the water. the patronage of Gustav III in the The church was ravaged by fire
Gustav Wickman (1858–1916) late 18th century. It has been in 1751, and its reconstruction
designed the pink sandstone rebuilt several times, the latest in was planned by the period’s
house on the corner of two outstanding architects, first
Fredsgatan and Drottninggatan Carl Hårleman and later C F
in exuberant, almost Baroque- Adelcrantz. The pulpit was
like, Jugendstil. The Skåne Bank made in 1753 to Hårleman’s
moved into this building in 1900. design, and J T Sergel (see p85)
The Florentine-style house on created the angelic figures in
Fredsgatan facing Rödbodtorget the northern gallery. A pair of
is three years older. It was identical angels adorn the
designed by Aron Johansson exquisite chancel, based on the
(1860–1936), architect of the old sculptor’s gypsum originals.
Parliament building on In the 1880s, the 116-m
Helgeandsholmen. (380-ft) tower was added and
Rosenbad got its name from a for many years could be seen
former 17th-century bathhouse, from all over the city. The
which offered bathers a choice of 20th-century church artist, Olle
a lily bath, a chamomile bath or a The Fredsgatan entrance Hjortzberg, created the vault
rose bath – rosenbad in Swedish. of Konstakademien paintings, dating from 1904.
 CITY  69

Edvin Öhrström’s glass obelisk in Sergels Torg, with Kulturhuset behind to the left

0 Kulturhuset and documentaries and live public use; and the “Music and
Stockholms broadcast concerts in the Film” section has a large archive
“Klara Cinema”. Clubs, concerts of international music that
Stadsteater and events are available in visitors can listen to.
Sergels Torg 7, Kulturhuset. Map 2 C4. the “Sergels Torg 3” venue; there The centre has a variety of
Kulturhuset Tel 08-508 315 08. is also an open rooftop stage cafés and eateries as well as
Stockholms Stadsteater Tel 08-506 used during the summer several shops selling items of
202 00.  T-centralen. @ 52, 69. months. The “Ecoteque” is a contemporary Swedish design.
Open 9am–7pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm space dedicated to environ- Kulturhuset also houses
Sat & Sun. & some areas. 7 0 - mental issues, where regular Stockholms Stadsteater
= ∑ kulturhusetstadsteatern.se
forums take place. There is (City Theatre). The theatre
also a coffee shop here and presents a varied programme
Opened in 1974, Kulturhuset is changing exhibitions. “Lava” of music and other events in its
at the heart of Stockholm’s is a meeting place for young main auditorium. Here, some
cultural life. A creation of the people, where dance, handicraft 1,400 performances take place
architect Peter Celsing, the and various other workshops every year for audiences
cultural centre is typical of its are held. totalling about 225,000.
era and blends well with There are five libraries in the
surrounding Sergels Torg. The centre. “Kidszone” caters for
building has a façade of glass small children with storytelling q Sergels Torg
all along the southern side of and workshops; “TioTretton” is
Map 2 C4.  T-centralen.
the square and is a symbol for children aged 10 to 13; @ 52, 69.
of Swedish Modernism. “Serieteket” is Sweden’s only
Kulturhuset offers something library for fans of strip cartoons; As part of the city centre’s
for everybody: three galleries the “Plattan Library” is stocked transformation, around 1930
hold regularly changing with international newspapers there was a strong lobby in
exhibitions suitable for all tastes. and magazines and also has favour of extending Sveavägen
Visitors can watch short films, a bank of computers for through to Gustav Adolfs Torg.
But in 1945 it was decided to
City’s Transformation end the road at the junction
with Klarabergsgatan and
During the 20th century Stockholm’s population grew from 250,000 Hamngatan to form a new square,
to more than 1.6 million. By the 1920s it was obvious that the old Sveaplan. In 1957 a two-level
heart of the city did not meet the square was proposed – a lower
future needs of business, public level for pedestrians and an
administration and the growth upper level for traffic. The plan
in traffic. In 1951 a controversial
was finalized in 1960, and the
30-year programme to transform
the lower Norrmalm city centre name changed to Sergels Torg.
was launched. Slums on 335 of the In 1972 the sculptor Edvin
600 sites were pulled down, and 78 Öhrström’s glass obelisk, Crystal
new houses were built. Two-thirds Vertical Accent in Glass and Steel,
The first steps towards a new of the area’s buildings were added was erected in the centre and
Hötorgs City (see p70), 1958 during this period. now shimmers at night due to
improved lighting.
70  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

and his grandson Svante

(b. 1942), who had a similar task
in 1993–6.
Constructed in 1923–6, the
main hall at the outset matched
Tengbom’s original concept.
However, acoustical problems
led to major reconstruction
work and modernization. Its
internal decor is rather frugal,
but the Grünewald Hall, by the
artist Isaac Grünewald (1889–
1946), is more lavish, in the style
of an Italian Renaissance palace.
The four marble statues in the
Fresh produce on sale at Hötorget, a marketplace since the 17th century main foyer are by Carl Milles,
creator of the Orpheus sculpture
w Hötorget there is a reminder of the old city group outside. Other artists who
Map 2 C4.  Hötorget. @ 1, 56, 59.
centre. A tablet marks where the have contributed to the decor
( 10am–6pm Mon–Thu, 10am– renowned sculptor Johan Tobias are Einar Forseth, Simon Gate,
6:30pm Fri, 10am–4pm Sat. Sergel (1740–1814) had his Edward Hald and Carl Malmsten.
studio. A later sculptor, Carl Milles The Stockholm Concert
Tradition is still going strong (see p152), created the well- Hall has been the home of the
on Hötorget (Hay Market). noted fountain, Orpheus, that Royal Stockholm Philharmonic
Formerly belonging to St Klara stands in front of Konserthuset. Orchestra since it opened.
convent, in the 1640s the The orchestra gives some
square evolved into an impor- 100 concerts every year, and
tant place for trading in animal e Konserthuset international star soloists
fodder, milk, vegetables and and conductors perform here
Hötorget 8. Map 2 C4. Tel 08-50 66 77
meat. Today it is still a lively regularly. It is also the venue
88.  Hötorget. @ 1, 56, 59. Ticket
market for fresh produce. Office Open 11am–6pm Mon–Fri,
for the Polar Music Prize and
The buildings around the 11am–3pm Sat, and 2 hours before a the Nobel Prize presentations.
square are relatively new. The concert. 8 7 - =
glass-fronted cinema complex ∑ konserthuset.se
opened in 1995, while the PUB r Kungstornen
department store was added in A Nordic version of a Greek
Kungsgatan 30 and 33. Map 3 D4.
1916 and Konserthuset in 1926. temple, Konserthuset (the  Hötorget. @ 1, 43, 56. Closed to
On nearby Sergelgatan, where Stockholm Concert Hall) is a the public.
the five high-rises of Hötorgs City masterpiece by the architect
were constructed in 1952–6, Ivar Tengbom (1878–1968) and In 1915 the young architect
an outstanding example of the Sven Wallander submitted a
1920s Neo-Classical style. sketch showing how Stockholm
Tengbom’s tradition has been could be given a modern, USA-
carried on by his son Anders inspired main street. His plans
(b. 1911), who was in charge of were accepted during the 1920s,
the hall’s renovation in 1970–71, when a new road was excavated

The Nobel Prizes

Alfred Nobel (1833–96) was an outstanding chemist and inventor,
and the prestigious Nobel Prizes – consisting of a monetary award
and a medal – have been presented every year since 1901 on 10
December, the date of his death. The ceremony
takes place in Konserthuset, where prizes
are presented for physics, chemistry,
physiology or medicine, and literature.
Since 1969 the Bank of Sweden has also
given a prize for economic sciences in
Nobel’s memory. The Nobel Peace Prize is
presented in Oslo’s City Hall on the same
day. In 1901 each prize was worth 150,000 kr,
while in 2010 it had increased to 10 million kr. The Nobel Medal,
The Orpheus sculpture group by Carl Milles Since 2012, it has been 8 million kr. awarded annually
at Konserthuset
 CITY  71

through the Brunkeberg hill In addition to performances,

linking Hötorget with Stureplan. Dansens Hus arranges seminars,
A bridge was built over what lectures, meet-the-artist
is now Kungsgatan, and a few sessions and workshops.
years later the twin Kungstornen
(King’s Towers) were added.
Designed in Neo-Classical style uStrindbergs-
by Wallander, the northern tower museet Blå Tornet
was originally owned by the Drottninggatan 85. Map 2 C3.
sugar company Sockerbolaget. Tel 08-411 53 54.  Rådmansgatan.
The southern tower was @ 52, 69. Open noon–4pm Tue–Sun
designed by Ivar Callmander and (Jul & Aug: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun). &
owned by L M Ericsson. Apart 8 when booked in advance. =
from a period when restaurants ∑ strindbergsmuseet.se
occupied the top of each one,
the towers have been used only Centralbadet’s characteristic naturalistic The world-famous dramatist
as offices. Both are 16 floors high. Jugendstil façade August Strindberg (1849–1912)
The northern tower, covering an had 24 different addresses in
area of 7,000 sq m (75,350 sq ft), centre has a 23-m (75-ft) long Stockholm over the years. He
is referred to as the “male”, with pool, bubble and treatment moved to the last of these in
his more graceful, slightly larger pools, three saunas and skin- 1908, and gave it the name
twin, as the “female”. At the care and massage sections. Blå Tornet (The Blue Tower).
entrance to the northern tower The garden, situated between By this time he had gained
are some beautiful granite sculp- Drottninggatan and international recognition.
tures created by Eric Grate. Centralbadet, was originally The house, now the Strind-
designed by the prolific bergsmuseet, was built with
18th-century architect Carl central heating, toilet and lift,
Hårleman. A few of the trees but lacked a kitchen. Instead, the
growing there today are writer relied on Falkner’s
thought to date from his era. Pension, a hotel in the same
The garden is a delightful oasis building, for food. On his last few
set round an ornamental pool birthdays the great man would
and fountain, and there is also stand on his balcony and watch
a sculpture showing a Triton his admirers stage a torchlight
riding a dolphin, created by procession in his honour.
Greta Klemming in the 1920s. Opened in 1973, the museum
includes reconstructions of
the author’s home with his
y Dansens Hus bedroom, dining room and
Barnhusgatan 12–14. Map 2 C3.
study, as well as 3,000 books
Tel 08-508 990 90.  T-centralen. and archives for photographs,
@ 1, 53. Ticket Office Open 2–6pm press cuttings and posters.
The “female” (left) and “male” (right) Tue–Fri, three hours before In the adjoining premises,
Kungstornen on Kungsgatan performances Sat & Sun. & 7 - a permanent exhibition
= ∑ dansenshus.se portrays Strindberg as author,
t Centralbadet theatrical director, artist and
Drottninggatan 88. Map 4 C4. Tel
The most important space photographer. Temporary
08-545 213 00.  Hötorget. Open for contemporary dance and exhibitions and other activities
7am–9pm Mon–Fri, 9am–9pm Sat, performance art in the whole of are often held here.
9am–6pm Sun. Closed public hols. Scandinavia, Dansens Hus has
& - 0 = ∑ centralbadet.se two theatres with a capacity of
750 and 100 seats respectively.
Designed by the architect Its programme often includes as
Wilhelm Klemming in many as 35 productions a year,
Jugendstil, Centralbadet swim- and these draw upwards of
ming and fitness centre was 60,000 visitors. The artists that
completed in 1904. Since then, have graced these stages range
it has been rebuilt and extend- from emerging Scandinavian
ed, but the façade remains the companies to international
same, while the Jugendstil established acts. Among them
influence continues into the are the Spanish flamenco
main pool and restaurant. dancer Israel Galvan, and
A protected cultural heritage Virpi Pahkinen, a Finnish Strindberg’s desk and writing materials in
building, the classic swimming choreographer and dancer. his study
72  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

i Adolf Fredriks programmes, movies,

Kyrka videos, Swedish music
and multimedia
Holländargatan 16. Map 2 C3. recordings. The library
Tel 08-20 70 76.  Hötoreget. @ 52.
has made all of its
Open 1–7pm Mon, 10am–4pm Tue–
material available to
Sun. 5 7pm Mon, 12:15pm Wed &
the public.
Thu (Mass in English on Thu), 11am
Sun. 8 by appointment. 7 - = The imposing
The “Devil’s Bible” from the early 13th century, stored at original building,
King Adolf Frederik laid the Kungliga Biblioteket inaugurated in 1878,
foundation stone of this church had to be expanded
in 1768 on the site of an earlier o Kungliga in the 1920s, and again in the
chapel dedicated to St Olof. 1990s. This major extension
Designed by Carl Fredrik
Biblioteket provided an auditorium and,
Adelcrantz, in Neo-Classical Humlegården. Map 3 D3. Tel 010-709 most importantly, two
style with traces of Rococo, 30 30.  Östermalmstorg. @ 1, 2, underground book storage
the church has been built 55, 56, 91, 96. Open 9am–7pm Mon– areas covering an area in total
in the shape of a Greek cross Thu, 9am–6pm Fri, 11am–3pm Sat; of 18,000 sq m (193,750 sq ft).
and has a central dome. 1 Jun–31 Aug: 9am–6pm Mon–Thu, The library is in a beautiful
The interior has 9am–5pm Fri, 11am–3pm Sat. setting in Humlegården,
Closed July: Sat 8 by appointment.
undergone a number of created by King Johan III in
7 - ∑ kb.se
changes, but both the the 16th century to grow hops
altar and pulpit have for the royal household. Since
remained intact. The This is Sweden’s national the 18th century, the park has
sculptor Johan Tobias library and an autonomous been a favourite recreation
Sergel created the Government department in its area for Stockholmers.
altarpiece, which is own right. Ever since 1661, when
probably his most there were only nine printing
important religious presses in Sweden, copies of p Stureplan
work. The every piece of printed matter Map 3 D4.  Östermalmstorg.
memorial have had to be lodged with @ 1, 2, 55, 56, 91.
to French Kungliga Biblioteket (the Royal
philosopher Library). Since 1993 this A new town plan for Stockholm
Descartes (see requirement has also applied to towards the end of the 19th
p19) is also electronic documents. As there century recommended that the
Sergel’s work. are now some 3,000 printers and Stureplan area should become
Memorial to The paintings publishers in Sweden, the volume the capital’s new centre. The
Descartes on the dome of material is expanding rapidly. proposal was accepted, and the
were added in The collection now covers about
1899–1900 by Julius Kronberg. 4 million books and magazines,
More recent items of value more than 14 million ephemera,
include altar silver ware by 500,000 posters, 300,000 maps,
Sigurd Persson. 750,000 portraits and 500,000
The cemetery is the resting pictures. The Department of
place of the assassinated Prime Audiovisual Material (previously
Minister Olof Palme, as well as the Swedish National Archive of
the politician Hjalmar Branting, Recorded Sound and Moving
a key figure of the Social Images) is also here and holds a
Democratic movement. J T total of 8 million hours of material,
Sergel is also buried here. including TV and radio

Olof Palme
On 28 February 1986 the Swedish Prime
Minister Olof Palme was killed in a Stockholm
street on his way home from a cinema without
a bodyguard. The murder happened at the
corner of Sveavägen and Tunnelgatan, whose
western section was renamed Olof Palmes
Gata. A memorial tablet has been placed
there. The murder provoked strong reactions
but to this day remains unsolved. His grave is
Olof Palme (1927–86) in the nearby Adolf Fredrik cemetery. Stureplan and the circular Svampen, one of
the city’s most popular meeting places
 CITY  73

area around Svampen (The d Hedvig Eleonora

Mushroom) rain shelter became Kyrka
a popular meeting place, as
more and more shops and Storgatan 2. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-545 675
restaurants opened. However, a 70.  Östermalmstorg. @ 62.
Open 11am – 6pm daily. 5 12:15pm
new street layout after the intro-
Tue & Thu, 7pm Wed, 11am Sun.
duction of right-hand driving in 8 by appt. 7 =
Sweden in 1967 brought its
halcyon days to a close. Founded in 1669 to give the
But now Stureplan has Swedish Navy its own place for
staged a phoenix-like comeback religious services, the church
out of the ashes of a major fire was not officially opened until
at the Sturebadet swimming 1737. The first plans were drawn
pool in 1985. Plans to revamp up by Jean de la Vallée, but the
the area were made: the pool work was completed with
was modernized, and the Göran Josuae Adelcrantz as
Sturegallerian shopping mall architect. The dome was added
was built, revitalizing the whole in 1866 – 8. The main bell was
eastern part of the city. Once Painstakingly restored Jugendstil cast in Helsingør, Denmark, in
again Stureplan became one decor at Sturebadet 1639 and hung in Kronborg
of the capital’s most popular Castle before being seized as
meeting places. s Östermalms- a war trophy by General Carl
hallen Gustaf Wrangel (see p58).
The church has many valuable
a Sturegallerian Humlegårdsgatan 1–3. Map 3 E4. artifacts. The altarpiece Jesus on
 Östermalmstorg. @ 1, 2, 56, 62.
and Sturebadet Open 9:30am–6pm Mon–Thu,
the Cross was painted in 1738
Sturegallerian 36. Map 3 D4.
by Engelhard Schröder. The
9:30am–7pm Fri, 9:30am–4pm Sat,
 Östermalmstorg. @ 1, 2, 55, 56, designer of the majestic
9:30am –2pm Sat in summer. 7 0
91. Shopping mall Open 10am –7pm ∑ ostermalmshallen.se
pulpit in Neo-Classical style
Mon –Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, noon–5pm was Jean Eric Rehn, who saw
Sun. Pool Tel 08-545 015 00. Open The temple of gastronomy, this his work unveiled on Christmas
6:30am–10pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am– market hall on Östermalmstorg is Day in 1784.
10:30pm Sat & Sun; other times by as far removed from a fast-food The new organ was built in
appointment & members only. - 0 outlet as you could imagine. the mid-1970s, but Carl Fredrik
Nowhere else in the city is there Adelcrantz’s 1762 organ façade
The original Sturebadet swim- such a range of high-quality is still in its original state.
ming pool, opened in 1885, was delicacies under one roof. But it Included in the silverware is a
sited within the present-day was certainly an example of fast Baroque chalice from 1650 and
StureCompagniet complex. building. Taking only eight a christening bowl dated 1685.
Rebuilt on its present site in months to erect, the hall was The 1678 font is now housed in
1902, it was ahead of its time – opened by King Oscar II in 1888. the baptismal chapel, which
even in the 1930s it was It is regarded as a fine example was added at the time of the
offering exercise facilities. of the city’s late 19th-century church’s restoration in 1944.
After a disastrous fire in 1985, architectural heritage.
a sum of 600 million kr was Construction of a brick
invested, partly to reconstruct building around a cast-
the pool according to its iron shell was a novelty
original design and partly to in Sweden, and the
develop Sturegallerian, a world- architects Gustaf
class shopping mall. The Clason and Kasper
architects managed to link the Sahlin won acclaim for
late 19th-century exterior with their design, inspired
interiors of modern design by the arcades of
using marble, granite, steel, Mediterranean
copper, cedar and mahogany. markets. In the early
Indoor streets and squares days there were
with some 50 retail outlets 153 stalls and, after
have been created, including undergoing extensive
restaurants, cafés and various restoration, there
services. Today’s swimming pool are now 13 larger
is now the most traditional part specialist shops,
of the complex. It has a spa selling local delicacies,
offering luxurious treatments and some popular Östermalmshallen, a culinary temple inspired by markets
and also has a gym on site. lunch spots. in Southern Europe
74  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Armémuseum, with the dome of Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka in the background

f Armémuseum Exhibits include musical occupies a site next to the

Riddargatan 13. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-519
instruments, set design models, Royal Dramatic Theatre.
56 300.  Östermalmstorg. @ 62, 69, puppets and costumes, with The Mews arranges the trans-
52, 76. Open Sep–May: 11am–8pm some pieces dating back to the port for the Royal Family and
Tue, 11am–5pm Wed–Sun; Jun–Aug: 16th century. the Royal Household. It maintains
10am–5pm daily. 8 & ^ 7 = The museum places a very about 40 carriages, a dozen cars
0 - ∑ armemuseum.se strong emphasis on interaction, and carriage horses, and a few
and visitors are encouraged horses used for riding. The royal
The old armoury on to play with many of the objects horses are Swedish half-breeds.
Artillerigården has been the on show and participate in There are many treasures
home of the Armémuseum performances taking place in among the carriages, such as
(Royal Army Museum) since the museum. the State coach with glass
1879. During the 1990s the The museum is currently panelling known as a “Berliner”,
250-year-old building and its closed for renovation and will made in Sweden at the Adolf
exhibits underwent extensive open its doors to visitors in Freyschuss carriage works. It
renovation. It is now one of the October 2016. Once reopened, was first seen at Oscar II’s silver
capital’s best-planned and most there will be a lively programme jubilee in 1897 and is still used
interesting museums. of temporary exhibitions on ceremonial occasions.
It puts Sweden’s history in a and events. Incoming foreign ambassadors
1,000-year perspective, present- travel to the Royal Palace for their
ing the information in an exciting formal audience with the
and comprehensive way. The h Hovstallet monarch in Karl XV’s coupé. Open
march of history is illustrated by Väpnargatan 1. Map 3 E4.
carriages from the mid-19th
life-size settings, and visitors can Tel 08-402 61 05.  Kungsträd- century drawn by two horses are
see many unique objects from gården, Östermalmstorg. @ 2, 5, 52, normally used for processions.
the collection of 80,000 exhibits. 62, 69, 71, 76. Open for guided tours.
Processions for royal visits in Closed public hols. 8 1pm Sat (in
the city start from the museum, English). & = ∑ royalcourt.se j Kungliga Drama-
and during the summer guards-
men march from here to the Formerly on Helgeandsholmen, tiska Teatern
Royal Palace at 11:45am every day Hovstallet (the Royal Mews) Nybroplan. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-667 06
for the changing of the guard. moved here in 1893, when the 80.  Kungsträdgården, Östermalm-
new Parliament building was storg. @ 2, 52, 55, 62, 69, 76. Ticket
being constructed. Alongside Office Open noon–7pm Tue–Sat,
g Swedish Museum the Museum of Music, it noon–4pm Sun. 8 ^ 7 0
of Performing Arts ∑ dramaten.se

Sibyllegatan 2. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-519

554 90.  Kungsträdgården, When plans were drawn up in
Östermalmstorg. @ 2, 52, 62, the early 20th century to build
69, 76. Closed for renovation until the present Kungliga Dramatiska
2016. 8 & 7 0 = Teatern (Royal Dramatic Theatre)
∑ scenkonstmuseet.se at Nybroplan, the State refused
to give financial aid, so it was
Situated in the former royal funded by lotteries instead. The
bakery, an elegant historic results exceeded all expectations,
building, this museum houses giving the architect Fredrik
a collection of 50,000 objects Coach and four, with riders on the left-hand Lilljekvist generous resources,
relating to the performing arts. horses, at Hovstallet which he used to the full.
 CITY  75

The theatre, known as Wilhelmina became

Dramaten, was opened one of Sweden’s greatest
in 1908 after 6 years in collectors of European
construction, and its decor and East Asian fine and
was remarkable for the era. decorative art.
The Jugendstil façade inspired In 1920, the von
by Viennese architecture is in Hallwyls donated their
costly white marble. Christian Stockholm mansion
Ericsson provided the powerful and its contents to
relief frieze, Carl Milles the the Swedish State. The
centre section, and John terms of the bequest
Börjesson the bronze statues stipulated that the
Poetry and Drama. These are house must remain
complemented in the foyer essentially unchanged.
by Comedy and Tragedy by Courtyard of Hallwylska museet, seen through As a result, the original
Gusten Lindberg and Theodor the gateway arch decor and layout of the
Lundberg respectively. rooms has been perfectly
The lavish design continues gold – was chosen for the new preserved. Various styles
inside, both in the choice national stage but was changed were adopted throughout.
of materials and in the to the traditional “theatre red” in The main salon, for example,
contributions by leading the 1930s. The auditorium was pays homage to the late
Swedish artists. The ceiling returned to its original colouring Baroque style. It is built
in the foyer is by Carl Larsson, during renovation in 1988. around four grandiose Gobelin
while the upper lobby’s back About 100 actors give some tapestries and is finished in
wall was painted by Oscar 1,200 performances every year 24-carat gold leaf, clearly
Björck, and the auditorium’s on the theatre’s 5 stages to influenced by Hårleman’s
ceiling and stage lintel by large audiences of over 300,000. work at the Royal Palace
Julius Kronberg. Gustav (see pp50–53). It is difficult to
Cederström provided the believe that this was once a
central painting in the marble k Hallwylska room in a private residence.
foyer, which also has some museet The museum houses some
fantastic sculptures and busts. 50,000 objects amassed by
Georg Pauli gave his name Hamngatan 4. Map 3 D4. Wilhelmina during her lifetime.
to a café, where visitors can Tel 08-402 30 99.  Östermalmstorg, These include paintings,
see his paintings and enjoy Kungsträdgården. @ 2, 55, 62, 69, 76. porcelain, East Asian sculpture,
8 Jan–May & Sep–Dec: noon–4pm
a meal without necessarily antique furniture, books and
Tue & Thu–Sun, noon–7pm Wed;
attending a performance. manuscripts, arms and armour,
Jun: 10am–4pm daily; Jul & Aug:
The 805-seat auditorium and photographs. Because the
10am–4pm Tue & Sun, 10am–7pm
and revolving stage with a Wed–Sat. & ^ =
house has been preserved
diameter of 15 m (49 ft) have a ∑ hallwylskamuseet.se exactly as it was when it passed
classic beauty. When Gustav III into the hands of the Swedish
founded the Royal Dramatic This museum is housed in the State, the kitchen utensils,
Theatre in 1788, it performed elegant 19th-century former office equipment and personal
in a building on Slottsbacken. residence of Count Walther von possessions of the family are
The probable colour scheme Hallwyl and his wife, Wilhelmina. also on display. Unusual items
there – blue, white and A wealthy heiress, include a chunk from the
Count’s beard and a slice of
Walther and Wilhelmina’s
wedding cake.
Perhaps the most remarkable
artifact on display is a Steinway
grand piano, dating from
1896, adapted to fit into its
majestic setting with a “casing”
of hardwood and inlaid wood.
In 1990 it was flown to New
York in two sections, weighing
a total of 900 kg (1,980 lb),
for a renovation lasting
several months. Visitors
strolling through the salon
can listen to a recording
of music played on this
Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern’s Jugendstil façade in white marble magnificent piano.
 STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA  77

BLASIEHOLMEN &
SKEPPSHOLMEN
Opposite the Royal Palace on the eastern side entertainment venues. Blasieholmen is also
of the Strömmen channel lies Blasieholmen, the place for auction houses, art galleries,
a natural springboard to the islands of antiques shops and second-hand bookshops.
Skeppsholmen and Kastellholmen. The quayside is the departure point for
Several elegant palaces were built at sightseeing and archipelago boats.
Blasieholmen during Sweden’s era as a great Skeppsholmen is reached by a wrought-iron
power in the 17th and early 18th centuries. bridge with old wooden boats moored next to
But the area’s present appearance was acquired it. In the middle of the 17th century the island
in the period between the mid-19th century, became the base for the Swedish Navy, and
when buildings such as Nationalmuseum many of its old buildings were designed as
were erected, until just before World War I. barracks and stores. Today they house some
In the early 1900s, stately residences such of the city’s major museums and cultural
as Bååtska Palatset became overshadowed institutions, juxtaposed with the avant-garde
by prestigious hotels, lavish banks and construction of the Moderna museet.

Sights at a Glance
BERZEELI
PARK Museums Public Buildings
SG.
RÖM
NÄCK
ST
1 Östasiatiska museet 5 Konsthögskolan
2 Moderna museet pp82–3
Islands and Squares
KUN

3 ArkDes
6 Kastellholmen
GST

7 Nationalmuseum pp84–5
9 Blasieholmstorg
RÄD

Kungsträdgården N
yb
w Raoul Wallenbergs Torg
GÅR

NY ro
BR
vi
DSG

O
KA ke
AN

Synagogues
AN

JE
AT
ATA

BL N n
RG
AT

AS
E

0 Synagogan
LG

IEH
AT
N

OL
AL

TE

MS
ST

AN

-G
NYBR

BLASI E-
A
AT

TA
N Hotels and Restaurants
RG

STR
HOLMEN
GA

OKA

ÖM
4 af Chapman
LA

KA
JEN
VS

JE N

MUSEI-
8 Grand Hôtel
HO
SÖ

PARKEN
DR

q Berns
A
BL
AS
IE

N
JE
HO

KA Concert Halls
N

LM

EI
or

US
SH

M e Musikaliska
AM
rs

N
tr
NE

ÄN A
KE
OB RR
N
öm

Skeppsholms-
BR NO

bron

ÖS
TR
A
TYGHUS- BR
PLAN OB
ÄN
KE
BATTERI- N
PARKEN
See also Street Finder
SKEPPS-
VÄ S T R A B R

pp206–18
HOLMEN
EXERCIS-
PLAN
AMIRALITETS-
O

PARKEN
BÄ

Restaurants pp166–71 SV EN
E N S KSUND SVÄ GSVENSKSUNDSPARKEN
NK
EN

1 B.A.R. RA DE N
LÅ NG A
K EN

HOLM-
2 Hjerta AMIRALENS GÅ NG EN
GR ÖN A
ÄN

TORG
St

3 Långa Raden B
RO
rö

4 Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen .B

m

BÄN KEN Ö
en SÖD RA BRO
m

and Matbaren Kastellholms-

bron
Saltsjön

KASTELL-
K AST E LL

BACKEN
RL
Ö

O
G
SV
HO

ÄG

KASTELL-
PARKEN
EN
LM
S
KA

JE
N
0 metres 250

0 yards 250

The af Chapman youth hostel, on a ship moored opposite the Royal Palace For map symbols see back flap
78  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Skeppsholmen
Skeppsholmen has long since lost its importance as a naval base Teater Galeasen is
and has been transformed into a centre for culture. Many of the Stockholm’s avant-garde
naval buildings have been restored, and traditional wooden theatre for new Swedish
and international drama.
boats are moored here, but pride of place now goes to the
internationally acclaimed Moderna museet.
The island is ideal for a full-day visit, with its location between
the waters of Strömmen and Nybroviken acting as a breathing
space in the centre of Stockholm. The attractive buildings, the
richly wooded English-style park and the view towards
Skeppsbron and Strandvägen also make Skeppsholmen an ideal
place for those who would just prefer to have a quiet stroll.
Skeppsholmsbron

Blasieholmen

1. Östasiatiska museet
This porcelain dish with a five- Skeppsholmen Church
clawed dragon (Ming Dynasty, (1824–42) in well-
1573–1620) is included in a preserved Empire style.
remarkable collection of arts and
crafts from China, Japan, Korea and Salute battery
SV

India, covering the period from

EN
SK

the Stone Age to the 19th century.

SU
N

Admiralty House
D
SV
ÄG
EN

The Fantastic
Paradise (1966), a
sculpture group by
Jean Tinguely and
VÄ

Niki de Saint Phalle

STR

for Montréal’s World

AB

Exposition, has
RO

stood outside the

BÄ

site of the Moderna

NK

museet since 1972.

EN

Youth Hostel

Swedish Society
of Crafts & Design

5 Konsthögskolan
The first part of the Royal
Institute of Art was completed
in the 1770s, but it acquired
4 af Chapman its present appearance
Built in 1888, the full-rigged former freighter and school in the mid-1990s.
ship has served as a popular youth hostel since 1949. This cast-iron
Skeppsholmen Church (left) and the Admiralty House boar stands at
(1647–50, rebuilt 1844–6) are in the background. the entrance.
 BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN  79

ÖSTERMALM

BLASIEHOLMEN
DJUR
Nybroviken GÅRDEN

Str
öm
SKEPPSHOLMEN

me
GAMLA

n
STAN
The festival area on the quayside below
KASTELL
the Moderna museet was provided HOLMEN
for the Millennium celebrations. It is Locator Map
the venue for the Stockholm Music and See Street Finder map 5
Arts festival.
Loading crane built
in 1751 – the oldest
of its type in Sweden.
3 ArkDes
ArkDes highlights thousands
of years of building, with a
collection of models showing
the world’s architectural
masterpieces, for example
this model of the Stockholm
City Library by Asplund.

ÖS
TR
A
BR
OB
ÄN
KE
N

S V.
KSUND 2. Moderna museet
SVENS
This museum,
designed by Rafael
AMIRA

Moneo, was opened in

1998, when Stockholm
L S VÄ G

was Cultural Capital of

ADEN
LÅNGA R Europe. It has an exciting
collection of modern art,
EN

and pleasant views from

its waterfront location.

Monument commemorating
the Battle of Svensksund in
1790 (see p24)

ROBÄNK EN
SÖDRA B
Kastellholmen

KEY
Långa Raden is used by the
Suggested route
State Board of Culture, and also
for exhibitions and as homes.
The buildings, dating from about
0 metres 100
1700, originally accommodated
King Karl XII’s bodyguard. 0 yards 100
80  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

ArkDes, housed in the Neo-Classical former naval drill hall

1 Östasiatiska who was both interested in In the permanent exhibition,

museet and knowledgeable about over a hundred models guide
archaeology. He eventually visitors through a thousand
Tyghusplan. Map 5 D2. Tel 010-456 12 bequeathed to the museum his years of building. These cover
00.  Kungsträdgården. @ 65. own large collection of ancient categories from the oldest and
4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open 11am–8pm
Chinese arts and crafts. simplest of wooden houses
Tue, 11am–5pm Wed–Sun. 8 & ^
7 = ∑ ostasiatiskamuseet.se
The museum has been on to the highly varied building
Skeppsholmen since 1963, techniques and architectural
It is not unusual for Western when it was moved into a styles of the present day.
capitals to have a museum restored house that had It is fascinating to switch
devoted to art and archaeology been built in 1699–1700 as a from an almost 2,000-year-old
from China, Japan, Korea and depot for Karl XII’s bodyguard. longhouse to a Konsum
India. But it is not every supermarket, encountering
museum of Far Eastern in between examples of
antiquities that, like Östasiatiska 2 Moderna museet architecture in Gothenburg
museet, can claim one of the See pp82–3.
dating from the 17th century
world’s foremost collections of to the 1930s and the Årsta
Chinese art outside Asia. bridge situated to the south
On a visit to the Yellow River 3 ArkDes of Stockholm.
valley in China in the early 1920s, Models of historic architec-
Exercisplan. Map 5 E3. Tel 08-587 270
the Swedish geologist Johan 00.  Kungsträdgården. @ 65. tural works worldwide, from
Gunnar Andersson discovered 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open 10am–8pm 2000 BC up to the present
hitherto unknown dwellings Tue, 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. 8 by day, are also on show.
and graves containing objects arrangement (for a fee). & ^ 7 The museum offers an
dating from the New Stone Age. 0 - = 9 ∑ arkdes.se ambitious programme – albeit
He was allowed by the only in Swedish – alongside
Chinese to take a rich selection The Swedish Centre for the permanent and temporary
of finds back to Sweden, and Architecture and Design shares exhibitions, including lectures,
these formed the basis for the an entrance hall and restaurant study days, walks around
museum, founded in 1926. A with the Moderna museet. It has the city, guided tours, school
key figure in its development also taken over its earlier home, visits and family events on
was the then Crown Prince, later the one-time naval drill hall. Sunday afternoons.
to become King Gustaf VI Adolf,
The Skeppsholmen Cannons
A salute battery of four 57-mm rapid-fire cannons is sited on
Skeppsholmen and is still in use. Salutes are fired to mark national
and royal special
occasions at noon on
weekdays and 1pm at
weekends: 28 January –
the King’s name day;
30 April – the King’s
birthday; 6 June –
Sweden’s National Day;
14 July – Crown Princess
Victoria’s birthday; 8
August – the Queen’s
name day; 23 December
Head of a woman, dating from the 12th – the Queen’s birthday. The salute battery on Skeppsholmen
century, at the Östasiatiska museet
 BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN  81

4 af Chapman sculpture, graphics, digital The charming brick pavilion by

Västra Brobänken. Map 5 D3. Tel
media and video, as well as the bridge was built in 1882 for
08-463 22 66.  Kungsträdgården. offering courses for architects. the Royal Skating Club, which
@ 65. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. - See The institute is not normally used the water between the
Where to Stay p159. open to the public, apart from two islands when it froze.
on Skeppsholmsdagen and an
The sailing ship af Chapman is “open house” in September.
one of Sweden’s most attractive Then visitors can enjoy the 7 Nationalmuseum
and unusual youth hostels and beautiful interiors, especially
See pp84–5.
has 136 beds. The hostel also the vaulted 18th-century cellars.
includes the 152-bed building
facing the ship’s gangway.
Visitors staying in more
8 Grand Hôtel
conventional accommodation Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8. Map 4
can still go on board and C1. Tel 08-679 35 00.  Kungsträd-
enjoy af Chapman’s special gården. @ 55, 59, 62, 65, 76.
atmosphere. The three-masted See Where to Stay p160 and Where
ship was built in 1888 at the to Eat p168. ∑ grandhotel.se
English port of Whitehaven
and used as a freight vessel. Rich in history and tradition, the
She came to Sweden in 1915 Grand Hôtel was established in
and saw service as a school 1874 and occupies a prime
ship until 1934. The City of location on the city’s waterfront.
Stockholm bought the ship Nobel Prize laureates and their
after World War II, and she has families have all been guests of
been berthed here since 1949. Grand Hôtel and the list of royalty
She is named after Fredrik The medieval-style castle on and artists who have stayed here
Henrik af Chapman, a master Kastellholmen, built in 1846–8 is impressive. The hotel’s interiors
shipbuilder who was born in are of great historical significance
Gothenburg in 1721. 6 Kastellholmen and have been designated as
Map 5 F4.  Kungsträdgården.
Swedish National Treasures.
@ 65. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Most notable are the Spegelsalen
5 Konsthögskolan (Hall of Mirrors), a copy of the one
Flaggmansvägen 1. Map 5 E3.
Right in the middle of at Versailles, and Vinterträdgården
Tel 08-614 40 00.  Kungsträd- Stockholm, Kastellholmen is (Winter Garden), with a ceiling
gården. @ 65. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. a typical archipelago island height of 20 m (66 ft).
Open to the public for special events. with granite rocks and steep In 2007, renowned Swedish
7 - 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri. cliffs. From Skeppsholmen it chef Mathias Dahlgren opened his
is reached by a bridge built in eponymous restaurant, Mathias
A stroll around Skeppsholmen 1880. Every morning since 1640 Dahlgren, at the Grand Hôtel.
provides an opportunity to have a sailor has hoisted the three- The other restaurant, called The
a closer look at the beautifully tailed Swedish war flag at the Veranda, is celebrated not just for
restored 18th-century naval castle. Whenever a visiting its views but also for its traditional
barracks, which houses naval vessel arrives, the battery’s smörgåsbord and the growing
Konsthögskolan (the Royal four cannons fire a welcoming popularity of The Cadier Bar,
Institute of Art). At the entrance salute from the castle terrace. named after the hotel’s founder.
there are two statues depicting
a lion and a boar. “In like a lion
and out like a pig” is an old
saying among the lecturers and
the 200 or so students at this
institute, rich in tradition.
The institute started out in
1735 as an academy for painting
and sculpture for the decorators
working on Tessin’s new Royal
Palace. Gustav III granted it a
royal charter in 1773. Before it
moved here in 1995, it was
located on Fredsgatan as part
of Konstakademien (see p68),
although since 1978 it had
been run independently with
departments for painting, Spegelsalen, the Hall of Mirrors, at the Grand Hôtel, Sweden’s first five-star hotel
 82  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

2 Moderna museet
The Museum of Modern Art is an airy, contemporary building,
designed by the Catalan architect Rafael Moneo in 1998.
The museum has a top-class collection of international
and Swedish modern and contemporary art, including
photography and film, from 1900 to the present day.
Built partly underground, the museum includes a cinema,
an auditorium and an exhibition gallery. There is an
excellent bookshop, and the Restaurangen Moderna
Museet has attractive views over the water.

. Green Split (1925)

To ArkDes Painted by Wassily Kandinsky
during his time as a teacher at
the Bauhaus, this work places an
emphasis on geometric shapes.
Bookshop
Main entrance to both
Moderna museet and
ArkDes (see p80).

Entrance level

Restaurangen
Moderna Museet

Auditorium

. Monogram
This work by Robert
Rauschenberg (c.1956)
Cinema includes an angora goat
Middle level with painted nose and
ears, a white car tyre and a
collage with fragments of the
word DADA. A self portrait?

Rafael Moneo
Rafael Moneo (b. 1937) is one of the world’s leading
contemporary architects.
As a young architect he
took part in the project to
build the Sydney Opera
House. His flair for adapting
building design to
sensitive surroundings was
recognized in 1989, when
he was chosen out of 211
Luncheon on the Grass (1962) This entries as the winner of
sculpture group by Picasso, executed the competition to design
in sandblasted concrete by Carl Nesjar, the Moderna museet. Moderna museet’s northern façade
stands in the museum garden.
 BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN  83

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 9 Blasieholmstorg

Map 4 C1.  Kungsträdgården.
Practical Information @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76.
Exercisplan.
Map 5 E3. Two of the city’s oldest palaces
Tel 08-520 235 00. are located in this square,
Open 10am–6pm Wed, Thu, flanked by two bronze horses.
Sat & Sun; 10am–8pm Tue; The palace at No. 8 was built in
6–8pm Fri. Closed Mon, 1 Jan,
the mid-17th century by Field
Easter, midsummer eve, 24–25 &
Marshal Gustav Horn. It was
31 Dec 8 Eng: summer. & 7
09-=
rebuilt 100 years later, when it Monument to the victims of the Holocaust
∑ modernamuseet.se acquired the character of an during World War II
18th-century French palace.
Transport Foreign ambassadors and depth of 15 m (50 ft). It is
@ 65. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. ministers started to lodge here built in what the architect,
 Kungsträdgården.
when they visited the capital, so F W Scholander, called “ancient
it became known Eastern style”.
as the Ministers’ Alongside this synagogue,
Gallery Guide Palace. Later it which can be visited on
The large room on the entrance became a base for guided tours during
level is used for temporary overseas admin- the summer, is the
exhibitions. Three rooms on the istration and soon congregation’s
same level have alternating earned its present assembly room and
collections from three eras: name of Utrikes- library. Outside is a
1900–45, 1946–70 and 1971– ministerhotellet monument erected in
present. The middle level has an (Foreign Ministry Bronze horse on 1998 to the memory
auditorium, a cinema and an Hotel). Parts of the Blasieholmstorg of 8,000 victims of the
exhibition gallery. The lowest building are now used Holocaust whose
level (not shown) has an entrance. as offices by the Musical Academy relations had been rescued
and the Swedish Institute. and taken to Sweden during
Bååtska Palatset stands World War II.
Key nearby at No. 6. Its restored There is also an Orthodox
exterior dates from 1669 and synagogue in the city centre,
Museum’s own collections
was designed by Tessin the reached through the Jewish
Temporary exhibitions Elder. In 1876–7 it was partly Centre (Judiska Centret) on
Non-exhibition space rebuilt by F W Scholander for Nybrogatan at No. 19.
the Freemasons, who still have
their lodge here.
Another interesting complex q Berns
of buildings can be found on Berzeli Park, Nackströmgatan 8.
the square at No. 10. The façade, Map 3 D4. Tel 08-566 322 00. 
which faces on to Nybrokajen, Kungsträdgården, Östermalmstorg.
along the water’s edge, is an @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76. 7 ∑ berns.se
attractive example of the See also Where to Stay p159.
Neo-Renaissance style of
the 1870s and 1880s. This has been one of Stock-
holm’s most legendary
restaurants and entertainment
0 Synagogan venues since 1863. Both salons,
Wahrendorffsgatan 3. Map 4 C1. Tel
with their stately galleries,
08-587 858 00.  Kungsträdgården. magnificent crystal chandeliers
@ 7, 55, 62, 65, 76. u 8am Mon, and elegant mirrors, were
Thu, Fri; 5:30pm Sat; Hebrew, partly restored to their original
Swedish. 8 15 Jun–4 Sep daily, and splendour by the British
on request. 7 ∑ jfst.se designer Sir Terence Conran
to mark the new millennium.
It took most of the 1860s to Berns is one of Stockholm’s
build the Conservative Jewish biggest restaurants, with
. The Child’s Brain (1914) community’s synagogue on seating for 400 diners.
The surrealist Giorgio de Chirico what was once the seabed. The gallery level, with its
gave his work the title The Ghost, When it was inaugurated in beautifully decorated dining
but Louis Aragon renamed it in a 1870, the synagogue was rooms, was made famous by
pamphlet about the artist’s 1927 standing on 1,300 piles, which August Strindberg’s novel
retrospective exhibition. had been driven down to a The Red Room (1879).
84  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

7 Nationalmuseum
The Nationalmuseum is a landmark on the southern side
of Blasieholmen. The location by the Strömmen channel
inspired the 19th-century German architect August Stüler
to design a building in the Venetian and Florentine
Renaissance styles. Completed in 1866, the museum houses
Sweden’s largest art collection, with 16,000 paintings and
sculptures. In addition there are around 500,000 drawings
and graphics from the 15th century to the early 20th The Love Lesson (1716–17)
century. Other treasures include a 500-year-old tapestry, Antoine Watteau is renowned for his
and Scandinavia’s largest collection of porcelain. The so-called fêtes galantes, depicting
young couples in playful mood.
Nationalmuseum is currently closed for restoration work
and is expected to reopen in 2018. Until then, items from
the museum’s collection will be making appearances at
temporary exhibitions around the city.

. The Conspiracy of
the Batavians under
Claudius Civilis
(1661–62) Originally
intended for
Amsterdam,
Rembrandt depicts the Level 2
Batavians’ conspiracy
against the Romans,
symbolizing the Dutch
liberation campaign
against Spain.

Atrium through
levels 1 and 2

Chest of Drawers (1780)

This impressive piece of furniture was created
by Georg Haupt, who was one of the foremost
Swedish cabinet-makers of the 18th century.

Gravure
gallery
Entrance Entry for
wheelchairs
David and Bathsheba (1490)
This tapestry from Brussels is
created in the decorative medieval
style, with pomegranates, faces and
hands forming an exquisite work.
 BLASIEHOLMEN & SKEPPSHOLMEN  85

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST w Raoul

Practical Information Wallenbergs Torg

Södra Blasieholmshamnen.  Östermalmstorg.
Map 5 D2. @ 2, 55, 62, 65, 76.
Tel 08-519 543 00.
∑ nationalmuseum.se This square is dedicated to
Closed Currently closed due to Raoul Wallenberg (1912–
restoration work. Due to reopen unknown), who during World
in 2018.
War II worked as a diplomat
8 English: tours twice a week
at the Swedish Embassy in
during summer. 7 9
. The Lady with the Veil 0=
Budapest. By using Swedish
Alexander Roslin’s elegant portrait “protective passports” he helped
(1769) is often considered a Transport a large number of Hungarian
symbol for 18th-century Sweden.  Kungsträdgården. @ 65; or 2, Jews to escape deportation to
55, 62, 76 to nearby Karl XII:s Torg. the Nazi concentration camps.
In 1945, when Budapest was
liberated, he was imprisoned
by the Soviets and, according
to Soviet sources, he died in
Moscow’s Lubianka prison in
1947. His fate, however, has
never really been satisfactorily
explained.
The small square adjoins
Berzelii Park and Nybroplan and
faces the Nybrokajen waterfront.
The definitive design of the
square has been hotly debated
The Upper Staircase because it is set in a sensitive
At the back is Carl Larsson’s monumental architectural environment, but
mural The Entry of King Gustav Vasa of great efforts have been made to
Sweden in Stockholm 1523. On the ensure that it remains a worthy
opposite wall is his Midwinter Sacrifice. memorial to Raoul Wallenberg.

e Musikaliska
Nybrokajen 11. Map 4 C1. Tel 08-545
703 00.  Kungsträdgården,
Östermalmstorg. v 7. @ 2, 52, 62,
Level 1
69, 76, 97. 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
Open for concerts (phone for
Amor and Psyche (1787) details). 7 ∑ musikaliska.com
Johan Tobias Sergel was
the foremost sculptor of Constructed in the 1870s,
the Gustavian era. this building facing the waters
Inspired by Greek of Nybroviken once housed the
Auditorium mythology, this piece Musical Academy. Its concert
shows a scene from the hall, opened in 1878, was the
story of Amor and Psyche. first in the country, and was
Entrance used for the first presentations
level Gallery Guide of the Nobel Prize in 1901.
The Nationalmuseum is undergoing Designed in Neo-Renaissance
extensive renovations aimed at creating style with cast-iron pillars,
larger public spaces, and will be closed the hall has a royal box and
until 2018. During this time, a number of galleries, and can seat up to
artworks from the Nationalmuseum’s 600 people.
Key to Floorplan collections will be on display in rotating After extensive restoration, it
Painting and sculpture temporary exhibitions at the Royal is now run by the state musical
Applied art and design
Academy of Fine Arts (Konstakademien) organization Rikskonserter,
at Fredsgatan 12. In addition, some other which has provided a much-
Temporary exhibitions
works from the collection will appear at needed concert stage for
Non-exhibition space other museums in the city. Check the chamber, choral, jazz and folk
No admission website for more details. music (see p177).
 STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA  87

DJURGÅRDEN
Once a royal hunting ground, Djurgården recreational park during the 18th century,
is an island right in the centre of Stockholm and in the time of troubador Carl Bellman
covered by a natural park. It has very few (see p98) many inns appeared. The Gröna
buildings with only around 800 permanent Lund funfair was established just a few
residents and forms part of Stockholm’s decades before Artur Hazelius founded the
Royal National City Park, the only one of its fascinating outdoor museum of Skansen
type in the world (see p123). and Nordiska museet in around 1900. Today,
From 1580 parts of Djurgården were a there is a wealth of museums on Djurgården
royal animal reserve, where Johan III kept offering a mixture of nature, culture and
reindeer, red deer and moose. A century later entertainment. A royal connection survives
the area was fenced off by Karl XI to be used in the beautiful Rosendal Palace, which has
for hunting. It developed into a popular magnificent Empire-style decor.

Sights at a Glance
Museums & Galleries Historic Areas Restaurants pp166–71
2 Junibacken w Djurgårdsstaden & Beckholmen 1 Hasselbacken
3 Nordiska museet pp92–3 r Rosendals Slott & Trädgårdar 2 Solliden Skansen
5 Spritmuseum Memorials 3 Spritmuseum Restaurant
6 Vasamuseet pp94–6 4 Ulla Windbladh
4 Estoniaminnesvården
7 Museifartygen 5 Villa Godthem
8 Biologiska museet Bridges
9 Liljevalchs Konsthall 1 Djurgårdsbron
0 ABBA Museum
Amusement Parks
e Skansen pp100–101
q Gröna Lund
t Waldemarsudde
y Thielska Galleriet

See also Street Finder

pp206–18
DJ
UR

iken
Djurgårdsbrunnsv ND A L S VÄ G
GÅ

KÄRLEKS- SE EN
RO
RD

N UDDEN
GE
SV

GALÄR- Ä
SV
ÄG

PARKEN L
DA
SEN
EN

GALÄR- RO
SI

KYRKO-
DJURGÅRDEN
RI

GÅRDEN
SH S VÄ GEN
OV

PORTEN
IUS OR
EL AN
Z

GE
HA

RI
VÄ
G EN
BOLLNÄSTORGET
T
Ä RRE
ALK VÄ
G

A NS
VA VÄ G

M
DS

LL
BE
LM EN

A
NN
UN

MÄ
ALL RÄND DJURGÅRDSSLÄTTEN SING ELBA CKE N BELLMANSRO
G E N
VÄ G
RDS
RGÅ
DJUR D JU
GÅ R
D S VÄ G EN

Beckholmssundet Beckholms- Ryssviken

bron FRISENS PARK

Beckholmen Saltsjön
0 metres 500

0 yards 500

Reindeer at Skansen For map symbols see back flap

88  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Lejonslätten

Lions were kept for animal-baiting up to 1792 on the spot where
Nordiska museet now stands, hence the name of this area –
Lejonslätten (The Lion Plain). Today visitors can safely stroll along
the waterfront, look at the boats and take in the panorama across
to Nybroviken, Skeppsholmen and the heights of Södermalm.
This area also offers several sights of cultural interest.
The majestic Nordiska museet, built in Neo-Renaissance style,
reflects Swedish cultural history over almost 500 years. In 2 Junibacken
Vasamuseet lies the beautifully restored 17th-century warship, This fun place for children is
while two more vintage ships are moored outside. Nearby, dedicated to the author
Astrid Lindgren. It also
Junibacken brings Pippi Longstocking and other favourite
features characters from
children’s book characters imaginatively to life. stories by other authors.

N
IKE
DSV
SL AN
ÅRD
UG
LAD

G A L Ä R PA R K E N
6. Vasamuseet
The royal warship Vasa was salvaged
after 300 years in the depths of Stock-
holm’s harbour. It is now housed in
Stockholm’s most popular museum.

7 Museifartygen
Alongside Vasamuseet are
two faithful vessels: the ice-
breaker Sankt Erik and the
lightship Finngrundet.

4 Estoniaminnesvården
Near the Galär cemetery,
a national memorial has
been erected to the
0 metres 100
852 people who lost their
0 yards 100 lives in the Estonia ferry
disaster on the night of
27–28 September 1994.
Key
The ferry sank on its way
Suggested route from Tallinn to Stockholm.
 DJURGÅRDEN  89

Lil
1 Djurgårdsbron ÖSTERMALM
la
Vä
r ta
There has been a bridge to n
Djurgården since 1661. The
current bridge was built in
DJURGÅRDEN
1896 to mark the Stockholm
Exhibition the following year. Strö
mm
en Saltsj ön

SÖDER

Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 5, 6 & 7

Blå Porten is a copy of one

Strandvägen of the many blue-painted
gateways once set in a 20-km
DJ (12-mile) fence around the
UR
GÅ former royal hunting reserve.
RD
SB
RU
NN
SV
IKE
N
Kaptensudden

Lejonslätten 3. Nordiska museet

Artur Hazelius, creator of Skansen, also founded
Nordiska museet, which portrays Swedish cultural
history from the 1520s to the present day.
DJ
UR
GÅ
RD

Djurgårds-
SV
ÄG

brunnsbron
EN

R O S E N D A L S VÄ G E N

Villa Lusthusporten
was built in the Italian
style during the 1880s.
EN
D J U R G Å R D S VÄ G

Galärkyrkogården
Spritmuseum (cemetery)

8 Biologiska museet Karl XV’s equestrian statue

Swedish fauna is shown in by Charles Friberg was erected
realistic natural settings in in 1909. The king (1826–72)
this charming old museum. was a great patron of the arts.
90  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Swedish children’s authors.

When she heard about Staffan
Götestam’s project for a
children’s cultural centre she
was adamant it should not be
just an Astrid Lindgren museum.
Nevertheless Junibacken is
still something of a tribute to
the much-loved author. It was
officially opened by the Royal
A colourful scene from one of Astrid Lindgren’s stories, seen from the mini-train Family in the summer of 1996
and has become one of the
1 Djurgårdsbron and Freja, the goddess of love city’s most popular tourist
and fertility. attractions. A mini-train takes
Map 3 F4. @ 44, 69, 76. v 7.
4 Djurgårdsfärja. The gate of Blå Porten, just to visitors from a mock-up of
the left on the Djurgården side, the station at Vimmerby (the
The Djurgården bridge came recalls the time during the 17th author’s home town) to meet
into use a few days before century when the island was a some of her characters, finishing
the major Art and Industrial royal hunting ground, and the with a visit to Pippi’s home in
Exhibition opened in Stockholm surrounding fence was Villekulla Cottage, where
in May 1897. Made at the punctuated by blue-painted children can play in the different
Bergsund plant in Södermalm, wooden gateways. This gate, rooms. There is also a well-
the bridge is richly ornamented decorated with Oscar I’s stocked children’s bookshop
with cast-iron railings in the monogram, was made from and a restaurant.
form of stylized water plants. cast iron in 1849.
At that time Sweden was in
union with Norway, and King 3 Nordiska museet
Oscar II’s monogram and motto 2 Junibacken See pp92–3.
“The sister nations’ wellbeing” Galärvarvsvägen. Map 5 F1.
can be seen on the central Tel 08-587 230 00. @ 44, 69. v 7.
span. The capital’s patron saint, 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open Jan–Apr: 4 Estonia-
Erik, is depicted on the pillar 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; May–Aug: minnesvården
supports among sea gods and 10am–5pm daily; Sep–Dec:
Galärkyrkogården. Map 5 F2. @ 44.
water lilies. 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 0
4 Djurgårdsfärja.
Wrought-iron lamps and - = ∑ junibacken.se
sculptures portraying mytho-
logical gods, created by Rolf You can find them all here – On the night of 27–28
Adlersparre, adorn the four Pippi Longstocking, Mardie, September 1994 the ferry
granite pillars at either end. Karlsson on the Roof, Emil, MS Estonia sank in the Baltic
On the Strandvägen side, Nils Karlsson Pyssling, Ronja the on its journey from Tallinn to
the pillars show Heimdal, the robber’s daughter, the Lionheart Stockholm with the loss of 852
watchman, and Frigga, the Brothers and many more lives. The deceased came from
wife of Oden. On the opposite characters from Astrid many countries including
side are Thor, with his hammer, Lindgren’s children’s books. In Sweden, Estonia, Latvia, Russia,
accordance with the popular Finland, Norway, Denmark,
novelist’s wishes, visitors can Germany, Lithuania, Morocco,
also meet the creations of other the Netherlands, France, the

Astrid Lindgren and Pippi Longstocking

Astrid Lindgren wrote around 100 children’s books, which have been
translated into 74 languages, making her one of the world’s most-
read children’s authors. Publishers
turned down her first book about Pippi
Longstocking, but she went on to win a
children’s book competition with it two
years later, in 1945. Her headstrong and
tough character Pippi soon won the
hearts of children worldwide.
Following Lindgren’s death in 2002,
the Swedish government created the
world’s largest prize for children’s
One of the beautifully decorated pillars literature in her name. Astrid Lindgren
supporting Djurgårdsbron
 DJURGÅRDEN  91

Museifartygen: the lightship Finngrundet and ice-breaker Sankt Erik outside Vasamuseet

United Kingdom, Canada, and boasts an impressive array of 7 Museifartygen

Belarus, Ukraine and Nigeria. exhibits. The highlight of the Galärvarvet. Map 5 F2. Tel 08-519 549
Their names and their fate will museum is the Absolut Art 00. @ 44. v 7 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
never be forgotten. Collection, which includes over Open 22 May–30 Aug: 11am–6pm
So reads the inscription on 800 works by famous daily; also during various public
this national memorial to the international artists such as Andy holidays, ring for details. 8 & =
victims of the Estonia disaster Warhol, Keith Haring, Damien ∑ sjohistoriska.se
adjoining the cemetery of Hirst and Louise Bourgeois. The
Galärkyrkogården. It was works were produced in The two vintage ships moored
designed by the Polish artist conjunction with the advertising alongside Vasamuseet are
Miroslaw Balka (b. 1958), who campaigns that helped make both fine examples of the ships
created it together with the two Absolut one of the best-known built to handle various tasks in
landscape architects Anders brands in the industry. It is the Swedish waters during the early
Jönsson and Thomas Andersson. first time these works have been 20th century. The lightship
Unveiled on 28 September united under one roof. Finngrundet, built in 1903, used
1997, the memorial is made of The museum is housed in to be anchored during the ice-
blasted granite and forms a Stockholm’s historic Galärskjulen, free season on the Finngrund
roofless, triangular room with or “galley sheds”, which date from banks in the southern Gulf of
11-m (36-ft) long sides and a the 18th century. The sheds were Bothnia. In the 1960s lightships
height of 2.5 m (just over 8 ft). modelled on a Venetian design started to be replaced by
The exact position of where the and were built for the galleys of permanent automatic
ferry sank is given on a metal the Royal Navy, which were stored lighthouses, so Finngrundet was
ring around a tree in the triangle. on land in these buildings. withdrawn from service and
With relatives’ consent, the names Visitors can dine at the became a museum ship. At 31 m
of most of the dead have been museum’s elegant fine dining (102 ft) long and 6.85 m (22 ft
carved in the walls. restaurant, which serves dishes 6 in) wide, with a draught of 3.1 m
made from seasonal, locally (10 ft 2 in), she was designed for
sourced organic produce. a crew of eight. The light had a
5 Spritmuseum range of 11 nautical miles.
Galärskjulen, Djurgården, Built in 1915, Sankt Erik was
Djurgårdsvägen 38. Map 6 A3.
6 Vasamuseet Sweden’s first seagoing ice-
Tel 08-121 313 00.  Karlaplan. See pp94–6. breaker. This classic Baltic model
@ Spårvagn City. Open 10am–6pm slides up over the ice and crushes
daily in summer; 10am–5pm daily in it. She also has a system that
winter. & 8 - = enables the ship to be rocked
∑ spritmuseum.se
sideways to loosen the ice and
widen the channel. One of the
The Museum of Spirits looks at two three-cylinder engines is
the unique history of alcoholic Sweden’s largest working marine
beverages in Sweden. Spanning steam engine. The ice-breaker is
two floors, the museum is the 60 m (197 ft) long and 17 m (56 ft)
only one of its kind in the country Snaps label, Spritmuseum wide and needs a crew of 30.
92  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

3 Nordiska museet The Proposal

This painting in
the Homes and
Resembling an extravagant Renaissance Interiors section, is
castle, Nordiska museet portrays everyday by Knut Ekwall
life in Sweden from the 1520s to the present (1843–1912) and
depicts a town
day. It was created by Artur Hazelius
flat in the 1880s.
(1833–1901), who was also the founder of The room is heavily
Skansen (see pp100–101). In 1872, he started decorated with
to collect objects that would remind future objets d’art, orna-
ments and textiles.
generations of the old Nordic farming culture.
The present museum, designed by Isak Gustaf
Clason, was opened in 1907. Today it has more
than 1.5 million exhibits in its collection, with
everything from luxury clothing and priceless
jewellery to everyday items, furniture and
children’s toys, and replicas of period homes.
Level 3

Corridor to
staircase

Level 2
(Main Hall)

Ground floor
State Bedchamber from Ulvsunda Castle
At the end of the 17th century, the lord of the
manor at Ulvsunda accommodated prominent
guests in this prestigious bedchamber.

Key to Floorplan
Folk art
Small Objects 1700–1900
Homes and Interiors
Table Settings, Traditions
Obelisk with an
Strindberg Collection
inscription meaning:
Jewellery “The day may dawn
Sápmi exhibition when not even all our
gold is enough to form a
Photographic exhibition
picture of a bygone era.”
Temporary exhibitions
Non-exhibition space Main entrance

Entrance
Gallery Guide
The museum has four floors. From the
entrance, stairs lead up to the temporary
exhibitions in the Main Hall. On the
ground level is the Reference Room. . Table Settings
Level 3 has the Strindberg Collection, In the mid-17th
Jewellery, Table Settings and Traditions. century, table
Sections on Folk Art, Homes and Interiors, settings were a feast
Small Objects, and the Sami (Sápmi) for the eyes. A swan
People and Culture are on Level 4. is the centrepiece at
this meal.
 DJURGÅRDEN  93

Jewellery
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This exhibition displays
over 1,000 pieces of
Practical Information
jewellery, which have
Djurgårdsvägen 6–16.
been divided into
Map 3 F5. Tel 08-519 547 00.
different sections
Open 10am–5pm daily (to 8pm
according to period,
Wed). & free after 5pm except
fashion or material.
in summer. 8 9 Eng. 7 0
- = ∑ nordiskamuseet.se

Travel Information
Level 4
@ 44, 69, 76. v 7.
4 Djurgårdsfärja.

Sápmi
Exhibition

Bridal Crown
It used to be a tradition
of the church to lend
this crown to brides as
a symbol of innocence.

Children’s
playroom

. Strindberg Collection
This picture of a cliff, Falaise III (1902),
painted by the writer August Strindberg
(see p71), is among the museum’s
collection of 16 of his paintings.

. Main Hall
As visitors enter this
huge hall, they are
greeted by a
monumental statue
Entrance with access of King Gustav Vasa. It
for pushchairs, prams was made in painted
and wheelchairs and gilded oak by
Carl Milles in 1924.
94  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

6 Vasamuseet
After a maiden voyage of just 1,300 m (4,265 ft) in calm
weather, the royal warship Vasa capsized in Stockholm’s
harbour on 10 August 1628. About 30 people went down with
what was supposed to be the pride of the Navy, only 100 m
(330 ft) off the southernmost point of Djurgården. Most of the
guns were salvaged from the vessel in the 17th century, and it Gun-Port Lion
was not until 1956 that a marine archaeologist’s persistent More than 200 carved
search led to the rediscovery of Vasa. After a complex salvage ornaments and 500 sculpted
figures decorate Vasa.
operation followed by a 17-year conservation programme, the
city’s most popular museum was opened in June 1990, less
than a nautical mile from the scene of the disaster.

. Lion Figurehead
King Gustav II Adolf, who
commissioned Vasa, was
known as the Lion of the
North. So a springing lion
was the obvious choice
for the figurehead. It is
4 m (13 ft) long and
weighs 450 kg (990 lb).

Emperor Titus
Replica carvings of 20
Roman emperors stand
on parade on Vasa.

Entrance

KEY

1 Information desk
2 To the restaurant
3 The main mast was originally
52 m (170 ft) high.
4 Reconstruction of the upper Bronze Cannon
gun deck More than 50 of Vasa’s
64 original cannons were
5 A model of the Vasa to a scale salvaged already in the
of 1:10 17th century. Three 11-kg
6 Main film auditorium (24-lb) bronze cannons are
on display in the museum.
 DJURGÅRDEN  95

. Stern VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Vasa’s stern was badly
damaged but has been Practical Information
painstakingly restored to Galärvarvsvägen 14.
reveal the ship’s mag- Map 5 F2.
nificent ornamentation. Tel 08-519 548 00.
Open 10am–5pm daily (Wed
until 8pm); 1 Jun–31 Aug:
8:30am–6pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 23–25 Dec.
8 English guided tours several
times daily. & 7 0 - =
∑ vasamuseet.se

Transport
@ 44, 69. 4 Djurgårdsfärja.
v 7.

Gun Ports
Vasa carried 64
heavy cannons on its
two gundecks – more
than earlier Swedish
ships of the same size.
This contributed to
its capsizing.

Upper Deck
The entrance to the
cabins was towards
the stern. This area Gun Deck
was the grandest part Although visitors cannot
of the ship, reserved board the ship, there is a
for senior officers. full-size copy of a part of
Part of the original the upper gun deck, which
mainmast can be gives a good idea of what
seen on the right. conditions were like on board.
96  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

Exploring the Vasamuseet

The Royal Warship Vasa has been restored to 98 per cent of its
original appearance. The low salt content of the water saved
the ship’s timber – which came from thousands of oaks – from
attacks by shipworms. The hull was all present, but fitting the
13,500 loose pieces together was like doing a jigsaw puzzle
without a picture, as there were no detailed designs to follow.
The salvage operation produced more than 700 sculpted figures
and carved ornaments, as well as many everyday items. A sailor’s simple belongings found on Vasa

war propaganda. fully equipped, and the divers

Many of the were able to recover many
builders and everyday items, including
carpenters who food and drink. But when the
worked in the chief diver, Per Edvin Fälting,
shipyard that built tasted the 333-year-old butter
Vasa came from from a tub made of wood
Holland, while most and tin, sores erupted around
of the sculptors, his mouth.
whose work was The museum has full-scale
typical of the late models of a part of Vasa ‘s upper
Carved soldiers on Vasa’s stern Renaissance and gun deck and the Admiral’s
early Baroque eras, cabin. The sailors and soldiers
came from Germany. The had to eat and sleep on deck
The Ship German woodcarver Mårten among the cannons. No wonder
In 1628 Vasa was potentially Redtmer made most of the that in the 17th century more
one of the world’s mightiest ship’s larger sculptures. died from illness than in battle.
ships. It was able to carry 64 Created out of oak, pine and In a fascinating exhibition
cannons and 300 soldiers (out lime wood, the figures were of original artifacts, you can
of a total 450 men on board). inspired mainly by Greek see the medical equipment
Vasa was equipped for both mythology, as well as the Bible that was used, an officer’s
traditional close combat and for and 17th-century Swedish backgammon game, some of
artillery battles. From its high royal personalities. the sailors’ wooden spoons and
stern it would have been plates and the officers’ dinner
possible to fire down on service in pewter and earthen-
smaller ships. The musketeers Life on Board ware. The divers also found
had shooting galleries for Vasa’s first destination on its about 4,000 coins, made mainly
training, and on the upper deck maiden voyage, with about 150 from copper, and a chest still
were so-called “storm pieces”, people on board, was intended neatly packed with hats, clothing
erected as protection against to be the Älvsnabben naval and other personal belongings.
musketry fire. base in the southern Stockholm Replicas of some of these
All this may appear very archipelago, where 300 soldiers artifacts are on sale in the
impressive, but it is uncertain were to embark. The ship was museum shop.
exactly what the ship’s role
would have been if it had
survived. The main task of the The Salvage Operation
Swedish navy at that time had The marine archaeologist Anders Franzén had been looking for Vasa
been to transport weapons for many years. On 25 August 1956 his patience was rewarded, when
and soldiers as well as to he brought up a piece of blackened oak on his plumb line. From the
protect shipping or block autumn of 1957, it took divers 2
harbours. It seems doubtful that years to clear tunnels under the
Vasa would have been suitable hull for the lifting cables. The first
for these roles. lift with six cables was a success,
after which Vasa was lifted in
16 stages into shallower water.
The Imagery of Power Thousands of plugs were then
The warship’s many figures and inserted into holes left by rusted
elaborately carved ornaments iron bolts. The final lift started on
formed an important part of 24 April 1961, and on 4 May Vasa Vasa in dry dock after being
that era’s language of power was finally towed into dry dock. salvaged between 1956 and 1961
and were designed as a type of
 DJURGÅRDEN  97

8Biologiska designed by the architect

museet Carl G Bergsten and built in
1913–16 in Neo-Classical style.
Lejonslätten. Map 6 A3. Tel 08-442 Liljevalch’s bust, sculpted in
82 15. @ 44. v 7. # Apr–Sep: granite by Christian Eriksson, is
11am–4pm daily; Oct–Mar: noon– set in the northern wall of the
3pm Tue–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat & Sun.
building. On a high column
8 by arrangement. & =
∑ biologiskamuseet.com
outside the entrance is Carl
Milles’ sculpture The Archer.
The architect Agi Lindegren, The gallery features Liljevalch’s
commissioned to design the collections of Swedish, Nordic
Museum of Biology in the and international art from the
1890s, based his plans on the 20th century, as well as handi-
simple lines of the medieval crafts dating from the same
Norwegian stave churches. period. Every year, four or five
The man behind the museum major exhibitions are staged,
was the zoologist, hunter and including the Spring Salon, a
conservationist Gustaf Kolthoff major attraction for Stockholm
(1845–1913). In 1892, he art-lovers. The exhibitions are Gröna Lund funfair seen from
persuaded the industrialist C F complemented by guided tours, Kastellholmen
Liljevalch – who later financed lectures, debates and concerts.
the nearby art gallery – to form Children and young people own piano; when the composer
a company whose aim was to have a special section, where tinkles the ivories, the museum
”maintain a biological museum they can create their own works piano also starts playing.
to include all the Scandinavian of art from various different
mammals and birds as stuffed types of materials.
specimens in natural surround- q Gröna Lund
ings”. The result was the world’s
Lilla Allmänna Gränd 9. Map 6 A4.
first museum of its type. Many of 0 ABBA Museum Tel 010-708 91 00. @ 44. v 7.
the creatures are shown against a 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open late Apr–
Djurgårdsvägen 68. Map 6 A3. @ 44.
diorama background, with about v 7. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open 30 Apr– mid-Sep: opening hours vary. & 7
300 species of Scandinavian 30 Aug: 10am–8pm daily. Last slot 0 - ∑ gronalund.com
birds and land mammals in 6:30pm; 31 Aug–13 Dec: 10am–6pm
their respective biotypes. Mon–Tue. Last slot 4:30pm. 10am–8pm A tavern called Gröna Lund (Green
Wed–Thu. Last slot 6:30pm; 14 Dec–31 Grove) existed on this site in the
Dec: 10am–6pm Mon-Sun; Fri–Sun 18th century, and it was one of
9 Liljevalchs 10am–6pm. Last slot 4:30pm. & 9 the haunts of the renowned trou-
Konsthall 0 = 7 ∑ abbathemuseum.com badour Carl Michael Bellman
(see p98). Jakob Schultheis used
Djurgårdsvägen 60. Map 6 A3.
This museum is dedicated to the tavern’s name for the modest-
Tel 08-508 313 30. @ 44, 47.
v 7. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. Open
ABBA, Sweden’s best-known pop sized funfair that he opened here
11am–8pm Tue & Thu, 11am–5pm
band. In addition to stage cos- in 1883 with a two-level horse-
Wed & Fri–Sun. Closed Mon. 8 tumes, gold records and an audio drawn roundabout as the main
2:15pm Mon–Fri. & 7 0 - = guide with fascinating insights attraction. Today Gröna Lund is
∑ liljevalchs.se into life as a band, the museum Sweden’s oldest amusement
delivers a delightfully interactive park, with 30 rides ranging from
Constructed thanks to a experience. Visitors can audition child-friendly to thrillingly fast.
donation from the industrialist to be ABBA’s fifth member at a The 130-day season is short but
Carl Fredrik Liljevalch, this perfect replica of the band’s Polar hectic. However, Gröna Lund
heritage building is regarded as Studio and record a music video. draws about 1.4 million visitors
one of northern Europe’s most There is also a piano that is con- each year. Its exciting attractions
attractive art galleries. It was nected to Benny Andersson’s include a haunted house, a ghost
train and an 80-m (262-ft) free-
fall tower. There is also a wooden
roller coaster that is said to be
the best of its type in the world.
The amusement park boasts
13 restaurants and cafés, three
stages, a cabaret restaurant with
space for 600 guests, and a 200-
seat theatre. The main stage has
hosted world stars such as Bob
Marley, who, in 1980, played to
Liljevalchs Konsthall’s spacious main exhibition hall a record audience of 32,000.
98  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

w Djurgårdsstaden
& Beckholmen
Map 6 A4. @ 44. v 7. 4
Djurgårdsfärja.
Behind Gröna Lund amuse-
ment park lies Djurgårdsstaden,
a tranquil oasis of wooden
houses, providing flats for about
200 people. The area was
originally developed from a The Karl Johan-style Rosendals Slott on Djurgården
town plan drawn up around the
Admiralty churchyard in 1736, to 17th century, was used as a r Rosendals Slott
house workmen at the nearby warehouse for commercial & Trädgårdar
Johan Lampas shipyards. goods. It was also used to store
When the Djurgården tar and pitch. The fire hazard Rosendalsvägen. Map 6 C3. v 7.
shipyard took over this area in meant that such dangerous Palace Tel 08-402 61 30. Open for
guided tours Jun–Aug: Tue–Sun;
1768, the carpenters were given items could not be stored any
1 Sep–27 Sep every hour (noon–3pm
the opportunity to buy their closer to the city centre.
Sat & Sun). 8 every hour noon–3pm.
homes. The company then In 1848 the Wholesalers’ & 7 Gardens Open all year. - =
erected the majestic two-storey Society decided to build a summer. ∑ royalcourt.se
stone building at Lilla Allmänna shipping repair yard on the
Gränd 15–17 with offices, island, and two docks were What was considered elsewhere
employees’ homes and a chapel. blasted out of the solid rock on as Empire style was named Karl
Other buildings on this street the southern side. They were Johan style in Sweden after King
also date from the 18th century later widened to accommodate Karl XIV Johan (1818–44). One of
such as Apotekshuset, the more wharves. In 1917 another the best examples is Rosendal
shipyard manager’s residence, large dock was opened, Palace, built as a summer
and Mjölnargärden, now named after King retreat for the king.
belonging to the amusement Gustaf V, and the Constructed in the
park. Several two-storey wooden two were used by 1820s and designed
houses were built on the the Navy and the by Fredrik Blom, a
churchyard, which had fallen Finnboda Door lintel, Rosendals Slott’s prolific architect of
into disuse, in the 19th century. shipbuilding firm. Gold Room the era, the palace
At the junction of Östra The fleet moved to was one of Sweden’s
Varvsgränd and Breda Gatan the island of Muskö in 1969, and first prefabricated homes. In 1913,
is the house of the ship’s car- Finnboda remained until 1982. it was opened to the public as
penter Sven Månsson. Enlarged The docks and houses form an a museum devoted to the life
in 1749, the building still looks unusual industrial setting. The and times of Karl XIV Johan
much as it did then, with 18th-century tar inspector’s and represents a pioneering
original tiled stoves and wood residence, the dockmaster’s work of historic restoration.
fires. It is now used by the 19th-century home, and The decor is magnificent, with
Djurgården Local Culture Society. workmen’s cottages from the Swedish-made furniture and
Lying just to the south of 1890s are well preserved. lavish textiles in wonderful
Djurgårdsstaden is the island of colours. The carpeting and
Beckholmen, which, during the curtains are worth a visit in
e Skansen
themselves. The dining room
See pp100–101. is fitted out in heavily woven

An Immortal Troubadour
Carl Michael Bellman (1740–95) was a much-loved troubadour.
Gustav III gave him a job as secretary of a
lottery, but he was best known around
Stockholm’s many taverns – particularly on
Djurgården. His works about the drunken
watchmaker Jean Fredman and his
contemporaries (Fredman’s Epistles and
Fredman’s Songs) have never lost their
popularity and form part of Sweden’s
musical heritage. A bust of Bellman was
unveiled on Djurgården in 1829 in the Bust of Bellman by
Well-preserved wooden homes presence of Queen Desideria. J N Byström (1829)
in Djurgårdsstaden
 DJURGÅRDEN  99

fabric to create the impression The Old Castle (1893)

of being in a tent. Tiled stoves and The Cloud (1896).
are everywhere, along with Based on works by
some grandiose artifacts and his contemporaries,
delightful details. In front of the the collection
palace is a large bowl made in represents early
porphyry from Karl XIV Johan’s 20th-century Swedish
own workshops at Älvdalen in art with names such as
central Sweden. Oscar Björck, Carl Fredrik
Close to the palace is Rosendals Hill, Richard Bergh,
Trädgårdar, a biodynamic market Nils Kreuger, Eugène
garden managed by a foundation Jansson, Bruno Liljefors
since 1984. Its aim is not just to and Anders Zorn. Hornsgatan (1902) by Eugène Jansson,
use biodynamic cultivation Prince Eugen was a in Thielska Galleriet
methods but also to run courses, generous patron to the
lectures and exhibitions. Plants next generation – for example, y Thielska Galleriet
are available to buy at the shop, the group known as “The Sjötullsbacken 6–8. Map 7 F4.
and there is a café. Young Ones” – so works by Tel 08-662 58 84. @ 69. Open noon–
younger artists including Isaac 5pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu). 8 by
Grünewald, Einar Jolin, Sigrid appt. & - ∑ thielska-galleriet.se
t Waldemarsudde Hjertén and Leander Engström
Prins Eugens Väg 6. Map 6 C4.
are also in the collection. When the magnificent
Tel 08-545 837 00. v 7. Open Sculptors of the same era are apartments of the banker
11am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 & 7 0 well represented, particularly Ernest Thiel (1860–1947) on
- = ∑ waldemarsudde.se Per Hasselberg whose works Strandvägen started to overflow
can be seen in the gallery and with his excellent collection
Prince Eugen’s Waldemarsudde, the park. of contemporary paintings,
which passed into State Along with the architect he commissioned the well-
ownership after his death in Ferdinand Boberg, Prince known architect Ferdinand
1947, is one of Sweden’s most Eugen drew up the sketches Boberg to design a dignified
visited art museums. The prince for the house, completed in villa on Djurgården.
was trained as a military officer 1905. The same architect was However, during World War I
but became a successful artist called in later to plan the gallery, Thiel lost most of his fortune.
and was one of the leading which was finished in 1913. In 1924, the State bought his
landscape painters of his This now includes parts of collection, mostly covering
generation. He produced the collection of some 2,000 Nordic art from the late 19th
monumental paintings for works, as well as the Prince’s and early 20th centuries, and
Kungliga Operan, Kungliga own paintings. opened Thielska Galleriet in
Dramatiska Teatern and The guest apartments his villa two years later.
Rådhuset. Among his own remain largely unchanged to Thiel was regarded as
works hanging in Waldemars- this day, and the two upper something of a rebel in the
udde, his former home, are floors with the Prince’s studio banking world and he was
three of his most prized at the top are used for particularly fond of works by
paintings: Spring (1891), temporary exhibitions. painters in the Artists’ Union,
which had been formed in 1886
to counter the influence of the
traditionalist Konstakadamien
(see p68).
There are paintings by
all the major Swedish artists
who formed an artists’ colony
at Grèz-sur-Loing, south of
Paris, such as Carl Larsson,
Bruno Liljefors, Karl Nordström
and August Strindberg.
And there are paintings by
Eugène Jansson, Anders
Zorn and Prince Eugen, as
well as wooden figures by
Axel Petersson and sculptures
by Christian Eriksson. Thiel
also acquired works by foreign
artists, not least his good
Prince Eugen’s Waldemarsudde, seen from the water friend Edvard Munch.
100  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

e Skansen
The world’s first open-air museum, Skansen was opened by Artur
Hazelius in 1891 to show an increasingly industrialized society
how people once lived. About 150 houses and farm buildings
were assembled from all over Sweden, portraying the life of both
peasants and landed gentry, as well as Lapp (Same) culture. The
Town Quarter has wooden urban dwellings and crafts including
glass-blowing and printing. Nordic flora and fauna feature every-
where, with bears, wolves and moose in natural habitat . Älvros Farmstead
enclosures and more exotic creatures in the Aquarium. The living room in this 500-
Many festivals are celebrated in Skansen (see pp28–31). year-old wooden cottage
from Härjedalen shows the
tools for daily tasks.
Swedenborg’s Pavilion
Set in the rose garden is the pavilion
that used to belong to the philo-
sopher and scientist Emanuel
Swedenborg (1688–1772).

. Town Quarter
Original Stockholm wooden
town houses replicate a
medium-sized 19th-century
town. Glass-blowers, bakers
and other craftsmen
demonstrate their traditional
skills in restored workshops.

KEY

1 Skansen Aquarium
2 Solliden stage
3 Hazelius Entrance
4 A cable car runs from the
Hazelius Entrance.
5 Tingsvallen/Bollnästorget is the
venue for the Christmas market and
Midsummer celebrations.
6 Wolves
7 Skåne farmstead
8 Skogaholm Manor The main
building in this Carlovingian manor
estate (1680) comes from the
Skogaholm ironworks village in
central Sweden.
Main entrance
 DJURGÅRDEN  101

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Djurgårdsslätten 49.
Vastveit Map 6 B3.
Storehouse Tel 08-442 80 00.
This storehouse from Open 10am–5pm daily (to 8pm
eastern Norway was in summer). Closed 24 Dec.
built in the 14th cen- &70-=
tury and is Skansen’s Seglora Church 5 11am Sun.
oldest building. 8 Jun–Aug. ∑ skansen.se

Transport
@ 44. v 7. 4 Djurgårdsfärja.

. Bear Pit
Skansen’s brown bears are firm
favourites, not least in April,
when the new cubs emerge.

Seglora Church
This shingle-roofed wooden church
was built in 1729–30 in western
Sweden and has an interesting
interior decor with a pulpit that
is even older than the church itself.
It is popular for weddings.

Hornborga Cottage
A timber cottage with a
straw and peat roof from
0 metres
western Sweden shows
100
how poorer people lived
0 yards 100 in the 19th century.
 MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD  103

MALMARNA &
FURTHER AFIELD
As Stockholm started to grow, the heart of the 19th century into an affluent residential area
city, Gamla Stan, became cramped and with grand, wide boulevards, contrasting
building spread out to the surrounding areas, with the 1930s Functionalist style of the
known as “Malmarna” (the “ore hills”). Parts of adjoining Gärdet district. This is the location
these now make up present-day Stockholm. of some of Stockholm’s most important
Södermalm came into the ownership of the museums, including Historiska museet,
city in 1436. Much of Stockholm’s old charm with its impressive Gold Room, and Folkens
can still be found in the areas around Museum Etnografiska.
Fjällgatan, Mosebacke and Mariaberget. To To the west is Kungsholmen, the centre
the north, the Norrmalm area expanded for local government, with distinguished
rapidly and became known as Stockholm’s buildings such as Stadshuset (the City Hall)
northern suburb in the 17th century. Much and Rådhuset (the Law Court). The Royal
of Vasastan is a residential area, but in recent National City Park (Ekoparken), the first of its
years it has become popular because of its kind in the world, is a green area of ecological
wide choice of restaurants. The once-rural and cultural interest surrounding the city and
Östermalm was transformed in the late reaching into its central districts.

Norrtull & Ekoparken Key

see pp122–7
Central Stockholm
Motorway
Major road
Minor road

Vasastan
see pp118–21
Östermalm & Gärdet
see pp104–13

Kungsholmen
see pp114–17

Södermalm &
South of Söder 0 kilometres 2
see pp128–35
0 miles 1

Picturesque night-time view of Södermalm

104  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Östermalm & Gärdet

The four wide boulevards, Strandvägen, Karlavägen, Narvavägen
and Valhallavägen, were created around 1870–80 as part of
the development of Östermalm into one of the city’s most
affluent residential districts, adjoining the extensive green
area of Ladugårdsgärde. In addition to embassies and the
headquarters of Swedish Radio and TV, four leading museums
are located in this green oasis, as well as Kaknästornet. The
area between Östermalm and the former military exercise
grounds was developed in the 1930s with housing in the Housing at Karlaplan, built in the late
clean lines of the Functionalist style typical of the period. 19th century

Sights at a Glance
1 Strandvägen 8 Tekniska museet t Försvarshögskolan
2 Historiska museet (see pp106–7) 9 Gärdet y Stadion
3 Karlavägen 0 Etnografiska museet u Tekniska Högskolan
4 Sveriges Radio och TV q Kaknästornet i Engelbrektskyrkan
5 Berwaldhallen w Ladugårdsgärde
6 Diplomatstaden e Filmhuset
7 Sjöhistoriska museet r Tessinparken
Stockholm Ö
Tekniska Key
högskolan EN
ÄG
ÖV
ING Gärdet
Central Stockholm
LID
KA Stadion
RL
AV Major road
Ä
TAN

G VA
EN LHA Minor road
GA

Stadion LLA
VÄ
G EN
RE

KA
STU

RLA Karlaplan
VÄ LINDARÄNGSVÄGEN
LI
TAN

G EN LL
SG

A
GA

LIN
Öster- NÉG VÄ
RN
NAR
N

malms- ATA
RT
NÉR

STIE
ATA

N
torg A
VA

N
BA

EN
EG

OX
YLL

DJURGÅRDSBRUNNS V Ä G E N
VÄG
SIB

STRANDVÄGEN
N

0 metres 750

0 yards 750

1 Strandvägen becoming “a street, the like of soon became the elegant

Map 5 E1. @ 69, 76. 
which will not be found boulevard envisaged and, then
Östermalmstorg, Karlaplan. v 7. anywhere else in Europe”. It was a as now, it was a popular place
long process. Even after all the for admiring the elegant
In the early 1900s Stockholm’s ten stately buildings had been façades, watching the boats and
richest citizens lived in palatial completed, the wooden quay to see and be seen.
new houses along Strandvägen. erected in the 1860s was The financiers behind the
Seven of them were wholesale something of an eyesore. It was housing projects of the early
merchants. Up to 1897’s major still used up to the 1940s by boats 1900s were wealthy and called
exhibition on Djurgården, the hilly bringing fire wood from the on the best architects, including
and muddy former Ladugårds- archipelago islands. I G Clason (1856–1930). Clason
lands Strandgata had been All the same, Strandvägen was influenced by Italian and
moving towards the goal of and its three rows of lime trees French Renaissance styles for his
work on No. 19–21 (Thaveniuska
Huset) and No. 29–35
(Bünsowska Huset), where he
designed gateways made of
ship’s timbers. No. 55 (Von
Rosenska Palatset) was also
created by him.

2 Historiska
museet
Strandvägen with stately houses and boats along the quayside See pp106–7.

For map symbols see back flap

 ÖSTERMALM & GÄRDET  105

3 Karlavägen secondary school

Map 3 E3.  Karlaplan, Stadion. building was designed
@ 1, 42, 44. by Ragnar Östberg
with sculptures by Carl
Until 1885 Karlavägen was Eldh; at Grevgatan is
known as Esplanaden, a 42-m Incoming Sea by
(138-ft) wide avenue planted Håkan Bonds; at
with lime trees and flower beds. Karlaplan a marble
Towards the end of the 19th sculpture by Gert
century several impressive Marcus; at Tysta Gatan
houses were built there, many Jeanette by Curt
in Neo-Renaissance style. The Thorsjö; and at Swedish Television’s main building, next to Swedish
street has retained its character Banérgatan is Urn by Radio’s headquarters
as a grand boulevard despite a Hedy Jolly-Dahlström.
lot of building and the arrival of Finally, at No. 100, is the long 4 Radio-och
shops and offices. Garrison administration building
A major development was with a sculpture group at the
TV-husen
undertaken in the 1960s, when entrance, a work in glazed Oxenstiernsgatan 20 & 34. Map 6 A1,
the central section of the road stoneware by Gustav Kraitz. A2, B1.  Karlaplan. @ 4, 56, 76. SR
was gradually converted into The fountain and round pond Tel 08-784 50 00. 8 by appt. 7
an open-air sculpture gallery. at Karlaplan were added in 1929. ∑ sr.se SVT Tel 08-784 00 00.
8 by appt. 7 ∑ svt.se
At the crossroads with Engel- The Aviator is by Carl Milles and
brektsgatan is The City by Lars was unveiled two years later.
Erik Husberg; at Villagatan a The headquarters of Swedish
female figure by the French Radio (SR) and Swedish
sculptor Paul Cornet; at Television (SVT) take up a
Floragatan Gunnar Nilsson’s 12 ha (30 acres) site alongside
Mimi, which can also be seen Ladugårdsgärde. The area’s long
at other places in the city; at history as a military training
Sturegatan Living Iron by Willy depot is reflected by several old
Gordon, a gift from the LKAB buildings once used for stores.
mining company, whose head Now it is the site not just of the
office at No. 45 acquired a modern radio and TV buildings
façade relief by Eric Grate in (designed by the architects Erik
1970. Also situated at the Ahnborg and Sune Lindström),
crossroads with Sturegatan is but also of three old buildings
Scatola by the Italian sculptor with military connections: the
Arnoldo Pomodoro. gunpowder cellar from 1717,
At Nybroplan is Man – Horse – the old stone coach-house
Carriage by Asmund Arle; at from 1750, and the Karl Johan
Sibyllegatan Woman with Hand storehouses from 1820. Both
Mirror by Ebba Ahlmark-Hughes; architects also designed
in front of Östra Real a bust of the Berwaldhallen (see p108), a
author August Blanche (1811–68) Fountain on Karlaplan, on the tree-lined concert hall, which is linked
by Aron Sandberg – the Karlavägen to SR and SVT by a tunnel.
Swedish Radio started its
transmissions from Malm-
Boats along Strandvågen skillnadsgatan on 1 January
Until the 1940s sailing vessels used to carry firewood from Roslagen 1925. It moved to No. 8
on the Baltic coast to the quayside at Strandvägen. This trade had Kungsgatan in 1928 and into
lost its importance by the 1950s, and boating enthusiasts started its new premises in 1961.
buying up these old vessels. SVT started transmissions from
Some were renovated and sailed the Svea Artillery Regiment’s old
to the Caribbean, others became premises on 24 October 1954. In
illegal drinking or gambling clubs 1969 it moved into the new TV
on Strandvägen. New harbour building in the former barracks
regulations led to the formation area, where an office block was
of two associations to administer
added 4 years later. Additions in
the boats. About 40 have
survived and are owned by
1983–7 included a building for
people who want to preserve a news broadcasts. SVT now
piece of cultural heritage. By covers an area of 51,600 sq m
Old wood-carrying boats along the every boat there is a sign (555,220 sq ft) with eight
Strandvägen quay describing its history. studios, three of which are used
for news programmes.
106  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

2 Historiska museet
Sweden’s Historiska museet (History Museum) was opened in Upper floor
1943. It was designed by Bengt Romare and Georg Sherman.
Sculptor Bror Marklund was responsible for the decoration
around the entrance and the richly detailed bronze gateways
depicting events in early Swedish history. The museum
originally made its name with its exhibits from the Viking era,
as well as its outstanding collections from the early Middle
Ages. Contemporary church textiles are also on show. Many
of Historiska museet’s gold treasures have been gathered
together to form one of Stockholm’s most remarkable
sights, Guldrummet (the Gold Room).

Courtyard

Bronze Age Find

This Bronze Age artifact, thought
to be a percussion instrument,
was discovered in a bog in
southern Sweden in 1847.

Ground floor
. The Alunda Elk
This 21-cm (8-inch) stone axe, discovered in
1920 at Alunda in central Sweden, resembles
an elk’s head. It is a ceremonial axe, probably
made in Finland or Karelia in around 2000 BC. Rosengården

The Bäckaskog Woman

The 1.5-m (5-ft) long
Bäckaskog woman
lived around 5000 BC.
She died at the age of
40–50 and was buried
sitting in a cramped pit.

Key
The Viking Era
Prehistoric Era This eventful era is represented
Middle Ages and Baroque by exhibits including a Viking
sword with artistic embellish-
Temporary exhibitions
ments, and ornaments in the
Non-exhibition space shape of Nordic animals.
 ÖSTERMALM & GÅRDET  107

The Skog Tapestry VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This once hung in the
wooden church at Skog Practical Information
in northern Sweden. It is Narvavägen 13–17.
one of the museum’s Map 3 F4. Tel 08-51 95 56 00.
oldest textile treasures. Open Jun–Aug: 10am–6pm daily;
Sep–May: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun,
11am–8pm Wed. Closed 24, 25 &
31 Dec. & 7 ^ The Gold
Room. - = ∑ historiska.se
Transport
 Karlaplan;  Östermalmstorg,
v 7 to Djurgårdsbron. @ Hop-
on-hop-off.
Baroque Hall

. Maria from Viklau

This Madonna figure on the
upper floor is the best-preserved
example from Sweden’s early
medieval period. The colourful
wooden sculpture is richly gilded.

Gallery Guide
The exhibitions are divided
History of Sweden chronologically on two floors with the
prehistoric section on the ground floor
Stairs descending and the Middle Ages on the upper floor,
to the Gold Room where there is also a Baroque Hall. In
the basement, reached by a staircase
from the entrance hall, is the Gold
Main entrance Room with priceless exhibits from
prehistoric times to the medieval period.

. The Gold Room

The Elisabeth
Since the early 1990s the museum’s many
Reliquary was origi-
priceless gold artifacts have been on
nally a drinking goblet,
show in Guldrummet (the Gold Room), a
which was mounted
700-sq m (7,550-sq ft) underground vault
with gold and precious
built with 250 tons of reinforced concrete
stones in the 11th cen-
to ensure security. The room is in two
tury. In about 1230 a
circular sections. The inner section houses
silver cover was added
the main collection, with 50 kg (110 lb) of
to enclose the skull of
gold treasures and 250 kg (550 lb) of silver
St Elisabeth. In 1631 it
from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages.
was seized as a trophy
for Sweden during the
Thirty Years’ War.

The Gold Collars were found between 1827 and

1864; the three-ringed collar in a stone quarry in
eastern Sweden, the five-ringed in a ditch on the
island of Öland, and the seven-ringed in a mound
of stones in the county of Västergötland. The underground Gold Room in Historiska museet
108  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Nobelparken, the park adjoining

the embassies, is named after
the scientist Alfred Nobel
(1833–96). In the early 20th
century plans for a Nobel Palace
in the park were drawn up by
the architect Ferdinand Boberg,
but the project never came to
fruition. On the north side of
Strandvägen is the Törner Villa, a
heritage wooden house built in
1880. The villa is named after a
firemaster at Nobel’s
gunpowder factory.

7 Sjöhistoriska
museet
Berwaldhallen – the concert hall is home to the Swedish Radio Symphony Orchestra Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 24. Map 6 C2.
Tel 08-519 549 00. @ 69. Open
5 Berwaldhallen 6 Diplomatstaden 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 & 7 -
Dag Hammarskiölds väg 3. Map 6 A2.  Karlaplan. @ 56, 69,76. = ∑ sjohistoriska.se
Map 6 A2. Tel 08-784 18 00.
 Karlaplan. @ 4, 42, 56, 69. The elegant villas that gave the The National Maritime
Open noon–6pm Mon–Fri. area of Diplomatstaden its Museum’s architectural
^ - 0 ∑ berwaldhallen.se name stretch along Nobelgatan design and location on
and the eastern part of Djurgårdsbrunnsviken are
On 30 November 1979 the Strandvägen (from No. 74). worthy of a country with a
Swedish Radio Symphony The first house for a foreign long coastline and numerous
Orchestra and the Radio Choir diplomat was built in the 1910s, archipelagos and lakes.
acquired their own concert when the British ambassador Sjöhistoriska museet focuses
hall, Berwaldhallen. Since moved into Nobelgatan 7. on shipping, shipbuilding and
then the hall has become a Nearby is Engelska Kyrkan (the naval defence, and there are
national showcase for Swedish English Church), which was built fascinating exhibits, both
music. It is named after Franz in the city centre in the 1860s permanent and temporary,
Berwald (1796–1868), one of but was moved to the on these themes.
Sweden’s greatest composers. diplomatic quarter in 1913. There are some 100,000
The architects Erik Ahnborg In the 1980s the church was exhibits, including more than
and Sune Lindström won an finally completed with the 1,500 model ships. The oldest
award for their “wonderful and addition of an octagonal parish ship was built in the 17th
sensitively designed concert hall. Villa Bonnier at No. 13 was century, and the oldest Swedish
hall”. Hans Viksten, Hertha designed by Ragnar Östberg ship is a reproduction of the
Hillfon and other artists and was a gift to the State by a so-called “Cathedral ship” from
undertook the decoration prominent publishing family. It the early 1600s. The collections
of the foyer. Nature has made is now used by the Government include every conceivable type
its own contribution in the for official functions. of ship – from small coasters
form of untouched areas of The embassies of Hungary, and Viking longboats to oil
rock, which were blasted out Turkey, South Korea, Norway, tankers, coal vessels, dinghies,
to accommodate two-thirds Germany, the UK and USA are all full-riggers and submarines.
of the six-sided building. located in or near the area. A series of models on a scale
The Swedish Radio
Symphony Orchestra and
Radio Choir give approximately
100 concerts per year in the
hall, which has contributed to
establishing this venue as an
internationally renowned
concert stage, attracting
audiences of 150,000 a year.
In late August the hall hosts
the annual Baltic Sea Festival,
a classical music festival that
presents world-class musicians
from around the world. Majestic buildings in the diplomatic quarter at Djurgårdsbrunnsviken
 ÖSTERMALM & GÄRDET  109

of 1:200 show the deve-

lopment of ships in
Scandinavia from the
Iron Age to the
present day.
There are also full-
scale settings, which
give a good idea of life
on board the ships.
Among them are the
beautiful original cabin
and elegant stern from
the royal schooner
Amphion. The ship was
built at the Djurgården
shipyard and designed
by the leading
shipbuilder F H
Chapman. It was Gustav The galley Lodbrok, one of many maritime models at Sjöhistoriska museet
III’s flagship in the 1788–
90 war with Russia. Contrasting by researchers. The sq m (129,000 sq ft) of well-
with this is the cramped and photographic collection has stocked exhibition space plus a
damp-preserved forecastle from 300,000 pictures, while the library with 50,000 volumes
the schooner Hoppet, where library covers all aspects of and a large collection of
four crew members ate, slept seafaring and war at sea. There technical magazines. It is also
and spent their time off watch. is a special children’s section the home of Sweden’s first
The museum has some with a workshop that is Science Centre, Teknorama,
notable examples of ship open on Saturdays, with many “hands-on” expe-
decoration from the late 17th Sundays and during riments aimed particularly at
century. They include part of school holidays. During children and young people.
the national coat of arms the summer a The machinery hall is the
recovered by divers in the dinghy-sailing largest exhibition area with
1920s from the stern of the school is arranged many powered machines from
Riksäpplet, which sank at for children aged different eras. Among them is
Dalarö in 1676. When 8–14. The attractive the country’s oldest preserved
Carolus XI, an 82-cannon museum building was steam engine, built in 1832 and
ship, was launched one of the architect once used in a coal mine in
from the shipyard in Ragnar Östberg’s southern Sweden. The classic
Stockholm in 1678 last works and was T-Ford is there, too, as well as
the stern had a large opened in 1938. early Swedish cars from Volvo,
relief portrayal of Karl On the gable facing Scania and Saab.
XI on horseback. The Djurgårdsbrunnsviken The museum also has
relief was possibly is The Sailor, a sections on the history of
removed some years Figurehead, about 1850 monument to the telecommunications and
later, when the ship victims of naval war the computer, electric power,
was renamed Sverige, but it by Nils Sjögren. book-printing and the Swedish
was saved and is now in the forestry industry. The mining
museum. There are many fine and processing of iron and
figureheads in the collection, 8 Tekniska museet steel is also highlighted.
including one depicting
Museivägen 7. Map 6 C2. Tel 08-450
Amphion, the son of Zeus, 56 00. @ 69. Open 10am–5pm Mon–
playing his lyre, which once Tue, Thu–Fri, 11am–8pm Wed,
adorned the schooner of the 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. 8 by
same name. appointment. & 7 = 0 -
Linked to the museum is the ∑ tekniskamuseet.se
Swedish Marine Archaeology
Archive, which contains a mass Anyone planning to visit the
of information, including a Museum of Science and
complete listing of shipwrecks Technology should allow
with 10,000 entries from 1720 plenty of time. Throughout the
to the present day. The ship- 20th century it accumulated a
design archive has documents wealth of exhibits connected
covering most eras of maritime with Sweden’s technical and Ericsson telephone made in 1903 for
history and is used extensively industrial history. It has 12,000 Czar Nicholas II
110  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

9 Gärdet scientists from the 18th century the large-scale immigration

Rindögatan.  Gärdet.
to the present day. The into the country in the late
∑ housingprototypes.org imaginative displays are 20th century.
intended to offer visitors not Alongside the permanent
Gärdet, one of the largest only a better understanding displays, the museum puts
residential neighbourhoods of the unknown or unfamiliar on a changing series of
in Stockholm, was built as the from around the world, temporary exhibitions
result of a design competition but also of the cultural highlighting different
in the late 1920s, at a time connections between aspects of the
when the Swedish Modern such far-off places collection. There
Movement was in full swing. and Sweden through is also a good
The competition was won by explaining how and reference library.
the architect Arvid Stille, and why the objects The museum also
this area exhibits the graceful came into the houses an unusual but
form of Functionalism for which museum’s collection. well-regarded restaurant,
Sweden became known at the The explorer Sven Religious mask from Matmekka. It is
time, and which continues Hedin (1865–1952), British Columbia renowned for using
to exert a strong influence to who was the last top-quality organic
this day. One characteristic of Swede to be ennobled (in ingredients and seasonal,
Swedish architecture from that 1902), contributed many locally grown produce to
period was the emphasis it exhibits, including Buddha create an appealing menu that
placed on decoration whilst still figures and Chinese costumes, combines traditional Swedish
adhering to the basic principles as well as Mongolian temple cuisine with exotic influences
of Functionalist ideology. tents donated by leaders of the from all around the world.
The individual buildings in Kalmuck people in western
Gärdet were designed and built China to King Gustav V.
between 1935 and 1939 by a A Japanese tea house, built q Kaknästornet
variety of architects, including by 15 Japanese craftsmen to Ladugårdsgärdet. Map 7 D1. Tel 08-667
Sture Fröhlén, Albin Stark, Ernst a design by Professor Masao 21 80. @ 69, 69K. Open Jun–Aug:
Grönwall, Wolter Gahn, Björn Nakamura, was opened in 9am–10pm Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm Sun;
Hedvall and Sven Wallander, 1990. It is a work of art in itself, Sep–May: 10am–9pm Mon–Sat,
all within Stille’s overall plan. offering a space for reflection 10am–6pm Sun. 8 by appointment.
and meditation within a 9&70-=
traditional setting. During the
0 Etnografiska summer months visitors can Anchored by 72 steel poles,
museet take part in tea ceremonies, each one driven 8 m (26 ft)
while at other times the house into the rock, the 34-storey
Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 34.
can be viewed from outside. Kaknästornet soars to a height
Map 6 C2. Tel 010-456 12 00. @ 69.
Another section of interest of 155 m (508 ft). The tower,
Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm
Wed). 8 & 7 0 - =
is dedicated to the native designed by the architects
∑ varldskulturmuseerna.se/ peoples of North America. Here, Bengt Lindroos and Hans
etnografiskamuseet there are masks, textiles and Borgström, was opened in 1967.
ceramics from various tribes. It was erected as a centre for
The National Museum of Closer to home, the museum the country’s television and
Ethnography is a showcase for also reflects upon the radio broadcasting and also
the collections brought home multicultural influences on contains technical equipment
to Sweden by travellers and Sweden brought about by to conduct conferences by

The Japanese tea house in the gardens of the Etnografiska museet

 ÖSTERMALM & GÄRDET  111

e Filmhuset
Borgvägen 1–5. Map 6 B1. Tel 08-665
11 00.  Karlaplan. @ 1, 4, 56, 72, 76.
Open 8am–6pm Mon–Thu, 8am–5pm
Fri. Film club, library & archives: ring for
details. 7 0 = ∑ sfi.se/filmhuset

The production of quality Swedish

films is supported by the
Swedish Film Institute. The insti-
tute also acts as guardian of the
country’s cinematic heritage and
promotes Swedish films both at
home and abroad. From 1971, all
its activities were brought under
one roof in Filmhuset, a Modernist
Kaknästornet, with the Sjöhistoriska, Tekniska and Etnografiska museums in the foreground structure by Peter Celsing.
Cinema screenings are held six
satellite between European its military role. In the early days a week at the internation-
cities. Five dishes to the left 1900s the area was used for ally acclaimed Cinematheque.
of the tower – the largest of May Day processions, and It showcases movies from all
which has a diameter of 13 m car races were staged here over the world, ranging from
(43 ft) – relay signals to and around 1920. silent picture shows with live
from satellites. The main hall The fortress of Kungliga music to more contemporary
containing the transmitters and Borgen is a relic of the military films. Filmhuset also houses
receivers has been blasted out training era, and it was from Sweden’s largest public library
of the rock below the dishes. here that Karl XIV Johan used to specialising in all things film.
The observation points on watch his troops manoeuvring. There is also a popular weekday-
levels 30 and 31 provide a He rode from here to Rosendal lunch restaurant and a café-bar.
spectacular view of the city, Palace on Djurgården (see p98)
and the restaurant on the via a pontoon bridge near the
28th floor has panoramic present-day National Maritime
windows. It is reached by Museum. The fortress was badly
two lifts, travelling at 18 km/h damaged by fire in October
(11 mph). The restaurant also 1977, but it has since been
runs a busy tourist information rebuilt to its original
office at the entrance level, appearance. A restaurant is
selling souvenirs and maps. open during the summer.
Decorative features include a Something is always going
wall relief by Walter Bengtsson, on in Gärdet. It is the starting
who was inspired by the tower’s point for major fun runs and
daunting technology. the venue for kite-flying
festivals, and is used by the
city’s balloonists. It is also a
w Ladugårdsgärde favourite place to exercise Filmhuset, home of the Film Institute and
Map 6 C1. @ 1, 69, 76. horses and dogs. Cinematheque

As early as the 15th century

there was a royal farm on the
Ingmar Bergman
site where the Nobel Park now The playwright and producer Ingmar Bergman was born in Uppsala
stands. After 250 years it had in 1918. His long series of masterly films made him world-famous,
outlived its usefulness and for a but he started his career in the theatre.
few centuries it was used as a From 1960–6 he was Managing Director
training area for the Stockholm of Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern (the Royal
garrison. Between Kungliga Dramatic Theatre), where he remained a
Borgen (Royal Fortress) and guest producer. He created more than
Hakberget are the remains 100 theatrical productions. His most
of Karl XI’s fort (dating from acclaimed are Smiles of a Summer Night
1672), which was largely (1955), The Seventh Seal (1957) and his
rebuilt in time for the World final film Fanny and Alexander (1982),
Equestrian Championships, which won him four Oscars. He will also
held here in 1990. During the be remembered for his problematic
20th century what became Ingmar Bergman (1918–2007) private life, which his films often depicted.
known simply as Gärdet lost
112  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Tessinparken, surrounded by Functionalist-style housing dating from the late 1930s

r Tessinparken A granite statue of a woman with building provided a backdrop to

& Nedre Gärdet a suitcase, Housewife’s Holiday, the newly extended street.
stands in the part of Tessin Park The regiment moved out
Map 3 F2.  Karlaplan, Gärdet. adjoining Valhallavägen. It was in 1949 to make way first for
@ 1, 4, 72.
made by Olof Thorwald Ohlsson Swedish Radio and later for the
in the 1970s. At the other end Military Academy, in whose
Three generations of the Tessin of the park is a colourful present gym Swedish TV was
family of architects (see p38) concrete statue, The Egg, born. A plaque reads: “From this
have given their name to this by Egon Möller-Nielsen. building the first regular
park opened at Lower Gärdet in television programme was
1931. Tessinparken runs from t Försvars- transmitted on 24 October 1954.”
north to south and is attractively
designed with lawns, play areas, högskolan
paths and ponds. The adjoining Valhallavägen 117. Map 3 E2. @ 4, 62, y Stadion
houses, built between 1932 and 72.  Stadion. Closed to the public.
Lidingövägen 1–3. Map 3 E2.
1937, have their own gardens
Tel 08-508 283 51.  Stadion.
and blend in such a way that Two decorative cannons, an @ 4, 55, 72, 73. Open 15 Apr–15 Oct.
they give the impression of aircraft propeller and an & during events. 7 0 -
being part of the park itself. 18th-century anchor guard the
The earliest houses, nearest entrance to Försvarshögskolan A new main arena was built for
to Valhallavägen, still show (the Military Academy). The the 1912 Olympic Games in
signs of 1920s Neo-Classicism, building has been sympathe- Stockholm. The architect of
although Gärdet’s real hallmark tically renovated and appears to Stadion, Torben Grut (1871–1945),
is Functionalism (see p39). The be lower than it really is, because followed the National Romantic
lower white houses along the adjoining Valhallavägen was influences of the day. His design
Askrikegatan are Functionalist built at a higher level. was based on his own interpre-
in style and noticeably different It was originally the base for tation of the commission to
from other buildings in Gärdet. the Svea Artillery Regiment build a stadium “using modern
They mark the northern and is one of many notable construction methods adapted
boundary of the park. Some military buildings designed from traditional medieval brick-
60 different architects were by the architect Ernst Jacobsson. building techniques”. It is no
involved in designing the After Nybrogatan was blasted coincidence that the arena, which
Gärdet development, including out through the Tyskbagar- is the world’s oldest Olympic
Sture Frölén. bergen hill, the regimental stadium still in use, is often
known as the “Stadium Fortress”.
In addition to the 1912
Olympics, the stadium has also
been the venue for ice hockey
and bandy (a type of hockey)
championships, the European
Athletics Championships in
1958, and the World Equestrian
Championships in 1990. The
stadium is renowned for athletics
events, and stages an
international athletics gala
every summer.
Stadion is listed as a heritage
building, and its twin towers are
a familiar landmark. The
The restored façade of Försvarshögskolan (Military Academy) on Valhallavägen complex is richly decorated. The
 ÖSTERMALM & GÄRDET  113

clock tower has i Engelbrektskyrkan

two figures by Carl & Lärkstaden
Fagerberg, Ask
and Embla, the Östermalmsgatan 20. Map 3 D2.
 Tekniska högskolan. @ 1.
counterparts of Adam
Engelbrektskyrkan. Tel 08-406 98 00.
and Eve in Nordic
Open 11am–3pm Tue–Sun. 5 11am
mythology. There are
Sun, 11:30am Thu. 7 =
also busts of Victor
Balck, the man behind One of Sweden’s leading
the 1912 Olympics; Jugendstil architects, Lars Israel
P H Ling, the father of Wahlman, designed the
Swedish gymnastics; Engelbrekt Church as a result
and Edwin Wide, of winning an architectural
the “flying teacher”, Bruno Liljefors’s statue Play outside Stadion competition in 1906. The church
who was a leading was opened on 25 January 1914
opponent of the Finnish master- Haninge and Kista, and outside in the presence of King Gustaf V.
athlete Paavo Nurmi in long- Stockholm in Södertälje, Gävle Engelbrektskyrkan gives the
distance races during the 1920s. and Visby. appearance of thrusting out
Four notable sculptures were The main building on from the rocks, and it dominates
added in the 1930s. The artist and Valhallavägen was designed by the surrounding area with its
gymnast Bruno Liljefors (best Erik Lallerstedt, and its opening, slender brick tower. In the
known for his wildlife paintings) in October 1917 was a chancel, the monumental
created Play at the main entrance, milestone in Sweden’s paintings are by Olle Hjortzberg
Carl Eldh made The Runners, and technological development. (1872–1959). The sculptor
Carl Fagerberg provided Relay The architect commissioned Tore Strindberg (1882–1968)
Runners and The Shot-Putter. several contemporary artists to was commissioned for the
decorate the austere technical stucco reliefs both in the
environment, so it has become chancel and above the main
u Tekniska something of an artistic treasure entrance. Filip Månsson
Högskolan trove. The sculptors and painters executed the frescoes in the
Valhallavägen 79. Map 3 D1.
whose works adorn the west portico and elsewhere.
 Tekniska högskolan. @ 4, 72, 73. buildings included Einar The nave is the highest in
Forseth, Olle Hjortzberg, Georg Scandinavia, and the arches
The renowned higher education Pauli, Ivar Johnsson, Axel inside the church are supported
establishment, Tekniska Törneman, Hilding Linnqvist by eight granite pillars.
Högskolan, accounts for one- and Carl Milles. The latter artist Engelbrektskyrkan is located
third of Sweden’s technical was also responsible for the in Lärkstaden, a quarter that was
research and engineering fountain sculpture, The Industrial developed around 1910 and is
education at university level. Monument, which rests on a characterized by dark red
It has 15,000 students, 1,000 marble base in the courtyard façades and tiled roofs that blend
active research students and a facing Valhallavägen. in well with the church. The area
staff of 2,500. It was founded in Early in the 20th century the has winding streets and natural
1827, and since 1917 its campus main building underwent a differences in level – inspired
has been housed in heritage painstaking renovation. The partly by Austrian patterns.
buildings on Valhallavägen, surrounding park was also
as well as in the suburbs of restored to its original state.

Arena for Records

No other athletics arena can compete with Stockholm’s Stadion
when it comes to world records. The 1912 Olympics gave the
statistics a flying start with 11 of them. The
gold medallist Ted Meredith’s time of 1
min 51.9 sec in the 800-m event can be
compared with Wilson Kipketer’s 1997
time of 1 min 41.73 sec over the same
distance – the last world record set at
Stadion. It has recorded a total of 83 world
records. London is second with 68, and
Los Angeles is third with 66. The top
Swedish runner of the 1940s, Gunder
Hägg, set seven world records and the
Running track at Stadion Finn, Paavo Nurmi, had six.
Engelbrektskyrkan, dominating the
surrounding area of Lärkstaden
114  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Kungsholmen
Once best known for its handicrafts and small industries,
Kungsholmen changed in the late 19th century with the
emergence of new apartment blocks and institutional buildings.
By the early 1900s the area had a different status, exemplified
by Ragnar Östberg’s Stadshuset (City Hall) – Stockholm’s most
notable architectural project of the 20th century – and Carl
Westman’s majestic Rådhuset (Law Court). These were followed
by the elegant waterfront houses along Norr Mälarstrand. The
area has a high concentration of government buildings, but it
also offers many venues for entertainment and nightlife. Stately buildings on Norr Mälarstrand line
the Riddarfjärden waterfront
Key
Sights at a Glance 3 Norr Mälarstrand
1 Stadshuset Central Stockholm
(see pp116–17) Motorway Map 1 C3.  Rådhuset,
Fridhemsplan. @ 40, 52.
2 Rådhuset Major road
3 Norr Mälarstrand When industries including
Minor road
4 Rålambshovsparken textiles and dyeing left Norr
5 Västerbron Mälarstrand in the early 20th
6 Marieberg century, work began on
TAN

exploiting Kungsholmen’s
SGA

FLEM
DRO Fridhemsplan INGG
ATAN attractive location along the bay
ERIK

TTN
AN

ING
HOL of Riddarfjärden. Gradually an
GAT

M
S:T

SVÄGEN
exclusive residential area
EELE

Stockholm C
E4

emerged. During World War II a

SCH

Thorildsplan HAN
NOR TVER
KAR
R MÄ
LARS GATA
N
Rådhuset sculpture park was developed
N

TRAN
DE

D
LE along the waterfront, where the
GE
SIN excursion boats and vintage
ES
0 metres 1000
coasters are moored today.
0 yards 1000 Willow, poplar, alder and birch
trees thrive along the shoreline.
A pavilion with a summer café
1 Stadshuset his design, Westman drew inspi- stands on pillars above the
See pp116–17.
ration from the Vasa Renaissance water. It was designed by Erik
of the 16th century and was Glemme, assistant to the city’s
probably influenced by Vadstena master gardener Holger Blom
2 Rådhuset Castle in southern Sweden. (b. 1906).
Scheelegatan 7. Map 2 A5.
Rådhuset, with its prominent The architect of Stadshuset,
 Rådhuset. @ 40, 52. tower, is one of the best exam- Ragnar Östberg, designed Norr
ples of the National Romantic Mälarstrand 76. Cyrillus
In the early 20th century, style, but its solid scale also Johansson, Sven Wallander and
the intention was to build a shows Jugendstil influences. J Norberg were the architects of
combined city hall and law The sculptors Christian Eriksson Nos. 26, 28 and 30, where the
court, but the plans changed and the brothers Aron and figures on the gables above the
when two separate architectural Gustaf Sandberg were steps were created by the metal
competitions were launched. The responsible for the decoration, craftsman Ragnar Myrsmeden.
winning entry for which also includes There is much to see in the
Rådhuset (the law paintings by Olle small side streets, including the
court), was a design by Hjortzberg and scene- façades of No. 5 Jacob Westins
Carl Westman (1866– paintings by Filip Gata (architect Harald Wadsjö)
1936), who became a Månsson and his and No. 9 Skillinggränd. The
leading exponent of workshop. Beside the original service-flat building at
the National Romantic staircase on the fifth No. 6 John Erikssongatan was
School along with floor is a copy of designed by Sven Markelius, who
Ragnar Östberg (1866– Kopparmatte, the pillory was influenced by the ministe-
1945), architect of that once stood on rial couple Gunnar and Alva
Stadshuset. Building Stortorget in Gamla Myrdal. It is the first residential
began in 1911, and Stan. The original pillory building in the Functionalist
Rådhuset was opened Rådhuset, is at Stockholms Stads- style typical of the 1930s to be
in December 1915. In exterior detail museum (see p129). listed as a heritage site.
For map symbols see back flap
 KUNGSHOLMEN  115

4 Rålambshovs- of Lake Mälaren. German

experts dominated the
parken architectural competition
Map 1 B3.  Fridhemsplan. @ 1, 4, launched in 1930, but their
40, 56, 57, 62, 74. S plans were implemented by
Swedish architects and
Rålambshovparken was created engineers, and the bridge
in 1935, when the Västerbron was was completed in 1935.
built. It adjoins other green areas, The attractive design blends
including Smedsudden and well with the landscape. The
Marieberg and Fredhäll parks. bridge is built in two spans of The Orb (1970) by Elli Hemberg in front
These open spaces attract 168 m (551 ft) and 204 m (669 ft) of Riksarkivet
joggers and sun-bathers. In with a vertical clearance of 26 m
summer it is possible to swim (85 ft). It is used by an average copper sculpture, Freedom our
from the beach at Smedsudden of 12,000 vehicles daily. A walk Watchword, made in 1951.
or the cliffs at Fredhäll. to the centre of Västerbron is The offices of Svenska
When the city celebrated its rewarded with a magnificent Dagbladet are not as richly
700th anniversary in 1953, an view of central Stockholm. decorated as their neighbours’,
amphitheatre was opened in but they are no less interesting
Rålambshovsparken, and a architecturally. The building was
paddling pool and playgrounds 6 Marieberg inspired by Pirelli’s high-rise
were added. The park has been Map 1 A3.  Thorildsplan. @ 1, 49,
offices in Milan and designed by
enhanced with Elli Hemberg’s 56, 62. Riksarkivet Tel 010 476 71 00. Tengbom Architects in 1960–2.
sculpture The Butterfly, Eric The third interesting building
Grate’s Monument to an Axeman, The area at the northern end of in Marieberg is Riksarkivet, the
Judgement by Egon Möller- Västerbron, Marieberg, was state archive. It was built in 1968
Nielsen and Lars Erik Falk’s once known for its porcelain by architects Åke Ahlström and
Colour Tower. factory and military installations. Kjell Åström. Riksarkivet is one of
But since the early 1960s it has Sweden’s oldest public bodies,
become the city’s main dating from the Middle Ages. At
newspaper district and the the entrance is Elli Hemberg’s
home of three of the four iron sculpture, The Orb. The
Stockholm dailies. main hall, which has 56 seats for
The architect Paul Hedqvist’s researchers and 18 individual
98.6-m (323-ft) high building for study rooms, is dominated by
Dagens Nyheter and Expressen is Lennart Rodhe’s tapestry,
one of the city’s landmarks. Symbol in the Archive, created by
The neon sign that tops the the Friends of Handicrafts. In an
building at Gjörwellsgatan 30 adjoining room the public has
Rålambshovsparken on the north side was designed by P O Ultvedt, access to archive documents,
of Västerbron who also created the relief at microfilm and microfiche.
the entrance. Works of art Among the archives is one
5 Västerbron include Lennart Rodhe’s walls of the world’s largest books –
Map 1 B4. @ 4, 40, 74.
made from glazed stoneware, the accounts for the province
Day and Night, and Arne Jones’ of Östergötland dating from
As Stockholm expanded and car sculpture Nova. Some older 1813. It has 12,390 pages,
use increased in the 1920s, it works of art were brought from weighs 42 kg (93 lb) and is
became necessary to build an the papers’ original building in 1.13 m (3 ft 8 inches) wide.
additional bridge between the the central Klara district, Guided tours of Riksarkivet
northern and southern shores including Stig Blomberg’s can be arranged.

Meaning “The Western Bridge”, Västerbron opened in 1935 to link Kungsholmen with Södermalm across Lake Mälaren
116  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

1 Stadshuset
Probably Sweden’s biggest architectural project
of the 20th century, the City Hall was completed
in 1923 and has become a symbol of Stockholm.
It was designed by Ragnar Östberg (1866–1945),
the leading architect of the Swedish National
Romantic style, and displays influences of both
the Nordic Gothic and Northern Italian schools.
Several leading Swedish artists contributed to the
rich interior design. The building contains the . The Golden Hall
Council Chamber and 250 offices for admin- The Byzantine-inspired wall mosaics by
Einar Forseth (1892–1988) have 19 million
istrative staff. The annual Nobel Prize festivities fragments of gold leaf. The theme of the
take place in the Blue Hall and the Golden Hall. northern wall is Queen of Lake Mälaren.

KEY

1 The Blue Hall contains the

banqueting room, made from hand-
shaped dark bricks. The name comes
from the original plan to use
polished blue-painted bricks.
2 Norra Trapptornet is a tower
crowned by a sun.
3 Courtyard
. The Prince’s Gallery
4 Marriage room
A fresco, The City on the
5 Engelbrekt the Freedom Water, in the Prince’s Gallery,
Fighter by Christian Eriksson was painted by Prince
(1858–1935). Eugen (see p99), who
donated it to the City Hall.
 KUNGSHOLMEN  117

Three Crowns VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sweden’s heraldic
symbol, Tre Kronor, Practical Information
dating from Hantverkargatan 1.
the 14th century, Map 2 B5.
tops the 106-m Tel 08-508 290 58.
(348-ft) tower. ∑ stockholm.se/cityhall
Open for guided tours.
Closed 1 Jan & 9, 10, 24, 25,
26 Dec. 8 English. 6 Jun–
23 Aug: 9:30am–4pm (every half
hour). & 7 Tower: May &
Sep: 9am–4pm daily; June–Aug:
9am–5pm daily. Visits every
40 minutes. & J
Transport
 Rådhuset. @ 3, 62
to Stadshuset.

The Council Chamber

Stockholm’s 101 councillors meet
in this magnificent chamber,
which contains furnishings
designed by Carl Malmsten.

The Dance
The steps leading to Riddarfjärden
are flanked by two statues by
Carl Eldh (see pp122–3). Dansen is
the figure of a woman; Sången
(The Song) is that of a man.
118  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Vasastan
Building started in Vasastan, the most northerly part of
Norrmalm, in the 18th century. Today it is both a residential
area, with houses built around 1900 for manual workers and
craftsmen, and a lively part of the city with a wide choice of bars
and restaurants. The area also includes some of Stockholm’s
most agreeable green open spaces, including Vasaparken and
Vanadis-lunden. Stadsbiblioteket, the city library, is one of
Stockholm’s most distinctive buildings, and there are several
architecturally outstanding churches.

Sights at a Glance
Key
1 Schefflelerska Palatset
The old observatory (1748–53) at the top
2 Observatoriemuseet Central Stockholm
3 Handelshögskolan
of the Observatory hill
Motorway
4 Stadsbiblioteket
5 Gustav Vasa Kyrka
Major road 2 Observatorie-
6 Judiska museet Minor road
museet
7 Vasaparken
8 Rörstrandsgatan Drottninggatan 120. Map 2 B2.
 Odenplan/Rådmansgatan. @ 2, 4,
9 Karlbergs Slott
20 AN 40, 42, 65, 72. Open Café Himlavalvet:
SV

0 Röda Bergen E
AT
EA

E4 SG 7 Apr–30 Sep: 11am–5pm daily (to

VÄ
N

q Vanadislunden ON
TI
SGATA

TA 6pm Sat & Sun); 1 Oct–6 Apr: 11am–

EN

S
A
RR
5pm Sat & Sun. Closed to the public.
S:T ERIK

NO Odenplan
TO

& 7 = ∑ observatoriet.kva.se
RSG

KARLBERGSVÄGEN
R Ö RS

N
ATA

TA
GA A number of institutions
EN
N

TR
AND OD
SG A
TAN connected with science and
DA

education can be found on and

LA

S:t Eriksplan
GA

0 metres 1000 around the hill of Brunkeberg.

TA

Karlberg
N

0 yards 1000 The oldest is the former

observatory designed by Carl
Hårleman for the Royal Swedish
1 Schefflelerska an architect. On show in Academy of Sciences and
Palatset the palace is Stockholm opened in 1753. In 1931 its
University’s collection of 370 astronomical research was
Drottninggatan 116. Map 2 B3. paintings from the 16th to the moved to Saltsjöbaden in
 Rådmansgatan. @ 52. 19th century, and the Hellner the Stockholm archipelago.
collection of 700 pieces made The building has since become
Until about 1900 the most at the Orrefors glassworks. Observatoriemuseet (the
northerly section of Pehr Hilleström’s painting With Observatory Museum).
Drottninggatan formed the Fortune Teller is included The grove, which surrounds
the main road into the in the collection, but the the old observatory, began to
city from the north. Here is emphasis is on foreign works take shape in the 18th century.
Schefflelerska Palatset (the such as The Assault, attributed It is an idyllic enclosed area,
“haunted palace”), built in to Pieter Bruegel the Elder which was first opened to the
the grand style popular (1567), and Danae Banquet public in the 20th century.
during Sweden’s time and Cleopatra’s Banquet On top of Brunkeberg is Sigrid
as a great power, by Tiepolo. The property Fridman’s statue The Centaur.
thus dating it to was acquired in 1925 A park stretches down to
around 1700. by the College Sveavägen, where a large pond
It has been of Higher is fed by water from a stream
suggested that Education, running down the hillside.
it was designed later Stockholm The statue Dancing Youth is by
by Tessin the Elder, University, which Ivar Johnsson. At the southern
but it is more likely handed it over entrance of the park is Nils
that it was by his to the State in Möllerberg’s sculpture Youth.
stepson, Abraham 1960. Legend has Although the observatory
Winantz, who was it that the is currently closed to the
ennobled in 1693 house has public, the on-site restaurant,
for his services as Orrefors bowl by Simon Gate, 1925 a ghost. Café Himlavalvet, is still open.
For map symbols see back flap
 VA S A S TA N  119

3 Handels-
högskolan
Sveavägen 65. Map 2 C2. Tel 08-736
90 00.  Rådmansgatan. @ 59.

When the architect Ivar Tengbom

(1878–1968) designed Handel-
shögskolan, Stockholm School
of Economics (SSE), in the early
1920s he was inspired mainly
by the Renaissance and Neo-
Classical styles. Tengbom himself
took charge of the construction, The Stadsbiblioteket, Stockholm’s main library
and the building was officially
opened in 1926 in the presence 4 Stadsbiblioteket and drinking fountains are by
of King Gustav V. The façade Sveavägen 73. Map 2 B2. Tel 08-508
Nils Sjögren. Hilding Linnqvist
has stone reliefs and a gilded 310 60.  Rådmansgatan. @ 4, 42, was responsible for the giant-
Mercury – the god of commerce – 46, 52, 53, 72. Open mid-Jun–mid- sized tapestry, and also for four
all by Ansgar Almquist, who also Aug: 9am–7pm Mon–Fri, noon–4pm mural paintings using ancient
contributed a stucco relief with Sat; mid-Aug–mid-Jun: 9am–9pm fresco techniques.
a lion gate based on the one in Mon–Thu, 9am–7pm Fri, noon–4pm The library lends more than a
ancient Mycenae in Greece. Sat & Sun. 7 - million books every year.
SSE is one of the leading busi-
ness schools in Northern Europe. Gunnar Asplund’s master work,
For more than a century, the Stadsbiblioteket (City Library), is 5 Gustav Vasa
school has educated men and one of the capital’s most architec- Kyrka
women for leading positions in turally important buildings (see Odenplan. Map 2 B2. Tel 08-508 886
the business and public sectors. pp38–9). Asplund, the champion 00.  Odenplan. @ 4, 40, 42, 46, 53,
of the Functionalist style 69, 72. Open 11am–6pm Mon–Thu,
prevalent in the 1930s, designed 10am–6pm Fri, 11am–3pm Sat & Sun;
a library dominated by the Jun–Aug: 11am–6pm daily. 5 noon
ideals of Nordic Classicism. Mon & Fri, 8:30am Wed, 6pm Thu, 11am
It was opened in 1928. Sun, in Swedish. 7 ∑ gustafvasa.nu
Internally, the furnishings and
many of the lightfittings were Sweden’s largest Baroque sculp-
designed by Asplund himself. ture forms the altar in Gustav
In the entrance hall are Ivar Vasa Kyrka, which was opened
Johnsson’s stucco reliefs with in 1906. The piece, by the court
themes from Homer’s Iliad. sculptor Burchardt Precht
The sparkling mural painting (1651–1738), was made for
in the children’s section, John Uppsala Cathedral, from where
Blund, is by Nils Dardel, and it was removed in the late
the depiction of the stars in 19th century. It was bought by
Entrance of Handelshögskolan, the heavens by Ulf Munthe. The the Gustav Vasa parish congre-
the Stockholm School of Economics door lintels, fine door handles gation, whose church immedi-
ately gained a notable attraction.
The architect Agi Lindegren
Gunnar Asplund designed the central part of the
Gunnar Asplund (1885–1940) was the dominant figure among church in Italian Neo-Baroque
Swedish architects between the two world wars. His first major style with a 60-m (197-ft) high
commission was the chapel at the Skogskyrkogården Cemetery, dome. Lindegren himself
designed in National Romantic style. designed the marble pulpit and
His last work was Heliga Korsets the font was created by Sigrid
Kapell, the cemetery’s crematorium Blomberg. The baptismal chapel
(1935–40). Regarded as a master- there is a 15th-century painting
piece in the Functionalist style, by an unknown Dutch artist.
it has earned a place on the
The paintings on the dome
UNESCO World Heritage list
are by Vicke Andrén, who also
(see p135). Asplund also designed
Stadsbiblioteket (City Library, 1920– portrayed the four evangelists
28). He pioneered the Functionalist in the transepts. The organ
Stockholm Exhibition, by Gunnar style as chief architect for the was built with the help of the
Asplund, 1930 Stockholm Exhibition in 1930. composer Olle Olsson, the
church organist for 50 years.
120  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

believed to be more to its current home at Lidköping

than 200 years old. in south-west Sweden.
During a major facelift Rörstrandsgatan was the site
in the 1940s, the of one of the city’s first Chinese
appearance of the restaurants, and today the many
section along Torsgatan outdoor cafés give the street a
was changed. Three colourful atmosphere during
terraced gardens were summer. The area around
added with granite Rörstrandsgatan and
and concrete walls and Odengatan has several nice
An eight-stemmed chanukiah (candlestick) in the reliefs. Gottfrid Larsson’s shops, bars and restaurants.
collection of Judiska museet bronze statue The
Workman has stood
6 Judiska museet in this part of the park since 9 Karlbergs Slott
1917. On the opposite side Map 1 B1. Tel 08-734 20 00.
Hälsingegatan 2. Map 2 A2. Tel 08-557
735 60.  Odenplan. @ 4, 72. of the park is Romeo and Juliet, @ 42, 72 to the station of Karlberg,
Open noon–4pm Mon–Fri & Sun. a small granite sculpture by then 15 min walk. 8 groups only,
8 in English by appointment. & 7 Olof Thorwald Ohlsson. by appointment.
= - ∑ judiska-museet.se
Admiral Karl Karlsson
In 1774 Aaron Isaac became the Gyllenhielm started to build
first Jewish immigrant to settle Karlbergs Slott in the 1630s,
in Stockholm and practise his during the Thirty Years’ War.
religion. Half of Sweden’s Jewish From 1670 the palace was
population of around 18,000 extended and rebuilt by
live in the Stockholm area. Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie,
Judiska museet depicts the with Jean de la Vallée as his
history of the Swedish Jews architect. When Karlberg
from Isaac’s time up to the became royal property in 1688,
present day. It focuses on Vasaparken, a green lung in the built-up it was one of Sweden’s most
Judaism as a religion, its area of Vasastan majestic palaces. It was where
integration into Swedish society the “hero king”, Karl XII (1682–
and also the Holocaust. 1718), grew up, and it was here
A comprehensive collection 8 Rörstrandsgatan that he lay in state after his
of pictures and other items Map 1 C1.  S:t Eriksplan. @ 3, 4, 42,
death at the Battle of
provide an insight into Jewish 57, 72. Fredrikshald (see p21).
life in Sweden with its important In 1792 the architect C C
traditions and customs. The This street takes its name from Gjörwell converted the property
beautiful Torah (the five books the no-longer-existing into the Royal War Academy,
of Moses) and the collection Rörstrand palace, built in the which later became the Karl-
of eight-stemmed chanukiot early 1630s. In the summer of berg Military School, and since
(candlesticks) are just some 1726 the manufacture of Delft- 1999 it has been one of the
of the museum’s remarkable style porcelain started in the country’s military academies.
spiritual artifacts. building. Two hundred years Cadet balls at Karlberg are
later the now-famous Rörstrand unforgettable experiences, not
porcelain factory was moved to least because of the magnifi-
7 Vasaparken the Gothenburg area and then cent setting. The interior
Map 2 A3.  S:t Eriksplan. @
3, 4, 72.

Vasaparken dates from the early

20th century. It was typical of
parks of its time with its
emphasis on sport exemplified
by the inclusion of a spacious
grass sports field. During World
War I the field was used for
growing potatoes. A playground
area was added in 1911.
It is a leafy and pleasant park.
With few exceptions the trees
were planted when the park
was opened, but a lime tree in
the shape of a candelabra is Rörstrandsgatan, a popular area for restaurants and pubs
 VA S A S TA N  121

Karlbergs Slott, a palace dating from the 1630s – now one of Sweden’s military academies

decorations include Carl Carove’s oases of Hedemora and a landfill site. A chapel,
magnificent stuccowork, which Sätertäppan, comes Stefanskapellet, at the southern
can be seen in the grand hall. Rödabergsgatan, an avenue of end of the park, was opened in
The palace church has been horse chestnut trees typical of 1904. It was designed by Carl
renovated, but the 17th-century the area. A Modernist sculpture Möller, who was the architect
lamps are original. De la Gardie’s in steel has sneaked in here – responsible for the Johannes
“Rarities Room” is now the Björn Selder’s 1 1/2 Spheres Kyrka. During a renovation in
sacristy but once housed his (1979). In the background is a 1925–6 the chapel acquired its
collection of valuables. playground with Bo Englund’s painted altar by Einar Forseth
sculpture Genesis (1984). depicting the Passion.
It took almost a half-century
0 Röda Bergen to complete Vanadislunden.
Map 2 A2.  S:t Eriksplan. @ 3, 42,
q Vanadislunden The Vanadisbadet, an outdoor
57, 69. Map 2 B1. @ 2, 40, 52. Vanadisbadet
swimming pool, was opened
Tel 08-30 23 00. Open mid-May–Sep: in 1938. Above the pool the
Turning off from Sveavägen into 10am–7pm daily. & 7 0 - sculpture Girl in the Evening Sun
Vanadisvägen, one soon ∑ vanadisbadet.nu by Anders Jönsson looks out
reaches Matteus Kyrka, which over Vasastaden. This is the
dates from 1902–3. This church Many places in Vasastan are highest part of Vanadislunden,
was designed by Erik Lallerstedt, named Vanadis, which derives and the streets around here
who 20 years later undertook from Norse mythology. It was have attractive black-and-
its renovation. The figure of not until the late 19th century white paving stones.
St Matthew at the entrance, that the area around the At one time there were
as well as the reredos figures, northern end of Sveavägen numerous suburban mansions
are the work of Ivar Johnsson. started to be developed. In in the area. One of them,
The mural paintings are by the 1880s a park was laid out Cederdals Malmgård, can still
the artist Olle Hjortzberg. on the nearby hillside with be seen towards the northern
The Röda Bergen (“Red cultivated areas created from end of the park.
Mountains”) district starts at
Vanadisplan with a sculpture
made from reinforced plastic –
Transformation, by Chris Gibson
(1984). The area is a typical
1920s garden city
where, as in Lärkstaden
(see p113), the architects
abandoned the normal
rigid road layout and
allowed the street plan
to follow the terrain.
After the rose gardens
of Rödabergsbrinken,
flanked by the parkland Houses in Röda Bergen built in typical warm colours
122  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Norrtull & Ekoparken

Large parts of the Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) are
spread around the Brunnsviken inlet, only a few kilometres
north of the city centre. The English-style park, Hagaparken,
with its 18th-century buildings, extolled by the poet Carl
Bellman (see p98), is located in this oasis. To the north lies the
majestic Baroque Ulriksdals Slott. In stark contrast, to the south,
visitors come abruptly to the inner city’s built-up area at the old
Norrtull gateway. The area has several museums, including
Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet, Sweden’s largest museum building.

Key
UP
PS

Part of Royal National

AL

City Park (Ekoparken)

AV
ÄG

Motorway
EN
E4

Major road The Wenner-Gren Center’s main building,

GSHAMRAV E1 8 Minor road called Pylonen
BER

EN
KÖ
PI N
G S VÄGE N E1
8 2 Bellevueparken
South of Brunnsviken lake,
Ekoparken 11346. @ 2, 40, 53.
Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum
B

0 kilometres 1
ru

Lögbodavägen 10, Bellevueparken.

ROSL
n

0 miles 0.5 Tel 08-612 65 60. Open May–Aug:

n

AGSV

noon–4pm Tue–Sun; Sep–Oct:

sv

Solan
11am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 1:30pm
ik

ÄGEN

DA
SUN VÄGEN
RÅ in English. & 7 ^ = - J
en

Univer-
FRÖSU
NDALE sitetet
DEN

Bellevue Park is part of the

Royal National City Park
Sights at a Glance (Ekoparken). Built by architect
1 Wenner-Gren Center
Fredrik Magnus Piper, who
2 Bellevueparken
also planned Haga Park (see
3 Haga Parkmuseum pp124–5), Bellevue offers
VA
4 Hagaparken (see pp124–5) LHA winding paths, groves, tree-
LL
5 Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet
AV lined avenues and open green
SV
EA

areas. The park also boasts

IKSG

6 Bergianska trädgården
VÄ

200-year-old lime trees and

G
S:T ER

7 Ulriksdals Slott
EN

rare medicinal plants. The name

“Bellevue”, French for “beautiful
1 Wenner-Gren whose 24-storey headquarters, view”, was given to the park
Center Pylonen, stands like an excla- by Baron Carl Sparre who
mation mark at the northern purchased a villa here on
Sveavägen 166. Map 2 B1. @ 2, 40, end of Sveavägen. Bellevue Hill in 1782. The villa
52, 69. It was opened in 1962, but was built in 1757 by court
Wenner-Gren lived only long painter John Pasch and today
The industrialist Axel Wenner- enough after that to see the is used as a conference centre.
Gren (1881–1961) had an topping-out ceremony in 1961. On Bellevue Hill is the
almost religious faith in the In the semi-circular Helicon Lögbodavägen viewpoint.
potential of science. “Let us use building are 155 apartments for The site is not easy to locate,
science to solve mankind’s the use, at subsidized rents, of but those who do find it are
problems” is an expression foreign scientists undertaking richly rewarded. The point
attributed to him. During the long-term research in Sweden. looks out over the Brunnsviken
1920s he launched products The Wenner-Gren Foundation inlet and is close to the
including vacuum cleaners and was set up to encourage monument The Young
refrigerators through his scientific exchanges between Strindberg in the Archipelago
company, Electrolux, which he Sweden and other countries. by Carl Eldh (1873–1954).
founded in 1919. His name is About 250 scientists take part The sculptor’s studio, now
preserved in three foundations every year, and international preserved as the Carl Eldhs
and in the Wenner-Gren Center, symposiums are arranged. Ateljémuseum, is only a few
For map symbols see back flap
 N O R R T U L L & E K O PA R K E N  123

metres from Lögbodavägen.

The sheltering environment
and panoramic view of
Brunnsviken and Haga were
important factors in Eldh’s
decision to locate his studio
here. The sculptor was able
to benefit from the northern
light, and the garden
belonging to the studio
made it possible for Eldh to
work in the open air. Today,
the area exudes calm, and it
is easy to see why the artist
chose to settle here.
In his time Carl Eldh was
one of Sweden’s most prolific
sculptors. Like his colleague
Carl Milles, he lived in Paris
for several years and was
influenced by Rodin’s Impres-
sionist style. Later his works
were characterized by a more Carl Eldh’s Ateljémuseum containing plaster cast originals of his works
robust Realism. Eldh’s
sculptures can be seen at (see pp112–13). Also here are 3 Haga
30 public sites in Stockholm. drawings, tools and other Parkmuseum
The plaster casts of these personal belongings of the
works are on show in the artist. The unusual wooden Mellersta Koppartältet, Hagaparken.
studio. Examples include The building that housed the Tel 08-27 42 52.  Odenplan then
bus. @ 515. Open Oct–May:
Branting Monument at Norra artist’s studio was built in
10am–3pm Fri & Sun, May–Sep:
Bantorget, the statue of 1919 and was designed by
11am–5pm daily. -
Strindberg in Tegnérparken, the City Hall’s architect, ∑ hagaparkmuseum.se
and The Runners at Stadion Ragnar Östberg.
This museum is housed in the
largest of the three copper-clad
The Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) “tents” situated in the northwest
The Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) was established by the corner of Hagaparken. It is
Swedish Parliament in 1995. This has enabled the capital to safeguard dedicated to the history of the
the ecology of its “green lung”, a 27-sq-km (10.5-sq-mile) area for park and includes exhibits on
recreation and outdoor activities in an urban setting. In fact, the park the plans for its original design,
covers an area that is as large as Stockholm’s inner-city. The National its unusual collection of
City Park includes central districts such as Skeppsholmen and the buildings, and the people
southern part of Djurgården, and continues northwest to northern associated with them, from the
Djurgården, Hagaparken, Brunnsviken and Ulriksdal. Much of the park time of Gustav III to the present.
was a royal hunting ground as early as the 16th century, scattered with
Originally built in 1787–90
beautiful palaces and other sights. The archipelago is represented with
as an open stable yard, the
the Fjäderholmarna
islands in the south. building housing the museum
There are no gates was completely destroyed by
around the Royal fire in 1953. The tent-like façade
National City Park, was restored to its former glory
so you may enter it in the 1960s, including the
without realising. painted copper cladding, but it
Guided boat tours was not until the 1970s that the
are available around stables behind were rebuild as a
Brunnsviken, with covered structure, in keeping
stops at some of the with the original design.
more important The museum has its own
sights. For more café, whilst the “tents” on
information on either side contain their own
the Royal National restaurant and accommodation.
City Park and The large rolling lawn in front
bookings enquiries,
The Royal National City Park (Ekoparken) has habitats of the museum is popular
call 08-587 140 40.
that support rich bird-life, including breeding herons with locals for sunbathing
and picnics in summer.
124  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

4 Hagaparken
In the mid-18th century King Gustav III decided to create
a royal park in the popular Haga area. The king’s vision
was realized by the fashionable architect Fredrik Magnus
Piper (1746–1824) with the help of leading architects and
decorators, and the result was an English-style park with Gustav III’s Pavilion, painted in 1811
some unusual buildings. A royal palace inspired by by A F Cederholm
Versailles in France was also planned, but construction
halted after the king’s death and it remained unfinished.
Today Hagaparken is part of the Royal National City Park
(Ekoparken; see p123), the world’s first national city park –
an oasis of nature and culture in the city centre.

Fjärils- & Fågelhuset

Hundreds of exotic butterflies
and birds fly freely around the
greenhouses containing humid
tropical rainforest with waterfalls
and luxuriant growth at a
temperature of 25°C (77°F).

. Koppartälten
These “Roman battle tents” designed by
Louis Jean Desprez were completed in
1790. They were originally used as stables
and accommodation, but now house a
restaurant, café and the Haga Parkmuseum.

KEY

1 Haga Parkmuseum
2 Ruined remains of Gustav III’s
unfinished royal palace.
3 Royal Cemetery Stora Pelousen
4 Old Haga The lawns stretching down from Koppartälten to
Brunnsviken are popular with Stockholmers for sun-
5 Turkish Pavilion
bathing and picnics in the summer, and skiing or
sledging in the winter. At the rear is Gustav III’s Paviljong.
 N O R R T U L L & E K O PA R K E N  125

Haga Slott VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Built in 1802–4 for
Gustav IV Adolf, the Practical Information
palace was the 4 km (2 miles) N of Stockholm.
childhood home of the Gustav III’s Paviljong:
present monarch, Carl Tel 08-402 61 30. 8 hourly Jun–
XVI Gustaf. It is now the Aug: noon–3pm Tue–Sun.
residence of Crown Haga Parkmuseum: Tel 08-27 42
Princess Victoria, Prince 52. Open 15 May–30 Sep: noon–
Daniel and family. 5pm Tue–Sun; 1 Oct–14 May:
10am–3pm Thu–Sun.
Fjärils- & Fågelhuset:
Tel 08-730 39 81. Open Apr–Sep:
10am–5pm Mon–Sun; Oct–Mar:
10am–3pm Tue–Fri, 11am–4pm
Sat & Sun. Closed 24, 25 &
31 Dec. - 0
∑ hagaparkmuseum.se

Transport
@ 515 from T-Odenplan.
Ekotemplet
g Royal Haga (in summer).
This building designed by Louis
Jean Desprez in the 1790s was a
royal summer dining room. The
acoustics made it possible to
eavesdrop on secret conversations.

0 metres 200

0 yards 200

Kinesiska Pagoden
With the 18th century’s
fascination for anything Chinese,
this pagoda was a natural part of
Piper’s plans for the park.

. Gustav III’s Paviljong

Olof Tempelman designed this Gustavian
masterpiece, and Louis Masreliez undertook
the interior decoration. The magnificent hall
of mirrors is particularly worth seeing.
126  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

6 Bergianska
trädgården
3 km (2 miles) N of Stockholm.
Tel 08-545 917 00.  Universitetet.
@ 40, 540. Edvard Anderson
Conservatory: Open Apr–Sep:
11am–5pm daily; Oct–Mar:
11am–4pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm
Sat & Sun. Victoria House: Open May–
Sep: 11am–4pm Mon–Fri; 11am–5pm
Sat & Sun. & 8 7 = -
∑ bergianska.se

Bergianska trädgården
(Bergius Botanic Garden)
Polar bear in a natural setting at Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet features plants from all over
the world in beautiful natural
5 Naturhistoriska presents both the smallest settings, and provides an
Riksmuseet creatures and the giants of the attractive display throughout
sea, while penguins, sea lions the year. The garden consists
5 km (3 miles) N of Stockholm. and polar bears await visitors of different areas such as
Tel 08-519 540 00.  Universitetet. in “The Polar Regions”. the systematic section, the
@ 40, 540. Open10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
During the 1980s the restau- Japanese pond, the orchard
11am–6pm Sat & Sun. 8 by
rant and museum courtyard and the wetland. There
appointment. & 7 = - 0
∑ nrm.se were given an artistic is a kitchen garden in the
facelift by Nils Stenqvist, shade of 100-year-old
Completed in 1916, the Gunnar Larsson and Pål spruce hedges, and an
vast Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet Svensson, and a major area for spices
(Natural History Museum) was extension was added and medicinal
designed by Axel Anderberg in the early 1990s. plants.
and decorated by Carl This also saw the The Italian
Fagerberg. The museum is a opening of terrace has
venerable institution, founded Cosmonova, which is been one of
in 1739 by Carl von Linné both a planetarium and the outlooks of
(1707–78) as part of Vetenskaps- an IMAX cinema. The the garden ever
akademien (the Academy of architects were Uhlin Mola Mola, since it was founded
Science). It is one of the ten & Malm. The dome- Naturhistoriska at the end of the
largest museums of its kind in shaped cinema screen Riksmuseet 19th century.
the world. Over the centuries, is 25 times the size of a From the end
the number of exhibits has normal screen. It is largely of May until the middle
risen to about 17 million. due to Cosmonova that of June, visitors can enjoy
During the 1990s it was the museum is now a major the wonderful flowering
modernized with the aim of visitor attraction. of rhododendrons in the
providing “experience-based The Vega Monument was valley leading down
knowledge”. There are erected in front of the museum to Brunnsviken.
permanent collections, such in 1930 to mark the 50th The Victoria House
as “Treasures from the Earth’s anniversary of explorer Adolf (1900) houses tropical
Interior” and “The Human Erik Nordenskiöld’s first voyage water plants, utility plants
Journey”, along with temporary through the North-East Passage and epiphytes. The Edvard
exhibitions. In “4.5 Billion Years” in his ship Vega. Designed by Anderson Conservatory
visitors can get acquainted with Ivar Johnsson, it is an obelisk (1995) has large sections
the dinosaurs and the earliest in dark granite topped with a for Mediterranean and
human beings. “Life and Water” copper ship. tropical plants.

Bergianska trädgården’s Edvard Anderson Conservatory, featuring Mediterranean and tropical plants
 N O R R T U L L & E K O PA R K E N  127

Ulriksdals Slott with its magnificent 18th-century Baroque exterior, seen from the palace park

7 Ulriksdals Slott exterior. After being a popular of the palace. A stream is

place for festivities in the time crossed by a footbridge, which
7 km (4 miles) N of Stockholm.
Tel 08-402 62 80. @ 503. g Royal of Gustav III (1746–92), it began is supported by Per Lundgren’s
Haga (summer). Palace, Orangery & to lose its glamour and at one Moors Dragging the Nets. More
Coronation carriage: Open mid-Jun– time was used as a home for art can be seen in the orangery,
mid-Aug: noon–4pm daily; May–mid- war invalids. designed by Tessin the Elder in
Jun & mid-Aug–Oct: noon–4pm Sat & Interest in the palace was the 1660s and rebuilt in 1705. It
Sun. Also available for pre-booked revived under Karl XV (1826–72), now houses a sculpture museum.
groups year-round. ^ & 7 = 0 and furnishings and handicrafts The palace chapel, a popular
- ∑ kungahuset.se/royalpalaces many hundreds of years old are place for weddings, was
on show in his rooms. The living designed by F W Scholander
Ulriksdals Slott is situated room of Gustav VI Adolf (1882– and built in 1865 in Dutch
between the two main roads 1973) in the rebuilt Knights’ Hall, Neo-Renaissance style. It
in the northern outskirts of contains furnishings by the has some notable medieval
Stockholm – the E4 and great architect and designer stained-glass windows.
Norrtäljevägen. The palace Carl Malmsten. The suite was a It was from Ulriksdal that
sits on a headland in the bay gift from the Swedish people Queen Kristina’s Coronation
of Edsviken. Its attractive in 1923 to the then Crown procession departed in 1650.
buildings and lush and leafy Prince when he married Louise Legend has it that by the time
surroundings are well worth Mountbatten. A staircase was the queen reached the city, some
a visit. At the entrance to the built at the same time to of her retinue had still not left
grounds is one of Stockholm’s designs, that Tessin the Elder Ulriksdal. In one of the stables
best-known restaurants, had suggested 250 years earlier. there is a replica of Kristina’s
Ulriksdals Wärdshus. The park was laid out in carriage. A riding school, built
The original palace was built the mid-17th century. It has in 1671, was converted into a
in the 1640s and designed by 300-year-old lime trees, as theatre by Carl Hårleman and
Hans Jakob Kristler in German/ well as one of Europe’s most C F Adelcrantz in the 1750s.
Dutch Renaissance style. The northerly beechwoods. Carl Performances are staged in the
owner, Marshal of the Realm Milles’s two sculptures of wild theatre, named Confidencen,
Jakob de la Gardie, named the boars stand by the pool in front every summer.
palace Jakobsdal. It was bought
in 1669 by the Dowager Queen
Hedvig Eleonora. When she had
a grandson, Ulrik, 15 years later
she donated the palace to
him as a christening gift, and
it was renamed Ulriksdal.
Around this time the architect
Tessin the Elder (see p38) suggest-
ed some rebuilding work, but
only a few of his proposals saw
the light of day. However, the
stucco work by Carlo Carove in
the southern wing can still be
seen. In the 18th century the
palace acquired its Baroque Sculpture on display in the 17th-century orangery at Ulriksdals Slott
128  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Södermalm & South of Söder

The Södermalm area, generally known as “Söder”, rises steeply
from the water and is something of a city in itself with its own
character, charm and dialect. The slopes are lined with old
wooden cottages with an unrivalled view of Stockholm. The
dramatic topography has provided some hilly parks, and
allotments are scattered among the built-up areas. The area
has plenty of shops, bars and restaurants and a lively nightlife,
as well as the latest in modern architecture. South of Söder is
Globen, a spectacular indoor arena, and Skogskyrkogården The towers of Mariaberget on a steep
Cemetery, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. hillside close to Slussen
VÄ
ST

Slussen Slussen
ERBR

ND 0 kilometres 1
ON

STRA
SÖDER MÄLAR
TAN
NSGA
LÅN

HOR 0 miles 0.5

Zinkensdamm
GHO

ROSE
RING
LMS

NLUN

GATAN
SÖDE

NGA
FOLKU
VÄG
G

RENST
Hornstull
RLED
DSG.

Key Medborgar-
EN

platsen

IERN
STUN

Central Stockholm
GÖT

AS G
NELN

GATA

ATA
Major road
N

22
Minor road EN
ÄG

2
GV
RIN

Sights at a Glance
1 Slussen 7 Fjällgatan y Högalidskyrkan
2 Stockholms 8 Fåfängan u Långholmen
Stadsmuseum 9 Spårvägsmuseet i Globen
3 Katarinahissen 0 Sofia Kyrka o Skogskyrkogården
4 Almgrens q Vita Bergen
Sidenväveri & w Medborgarplatsen Skanstull
NYN

Museum e Södra Station Area

ÄSV

5 Mosebacke r Leksaksmuseet
ÄGE

6 Katarina Kyrka t Mariaberget

N 73

2 km (1.2 miles)

1 Slussen and land traffic was confined to 1935 and was so well designed
Map 4 C4.  Slussen. @ 2, 3, 43, 53,
a narrow bridge. The conges- that it was able to cope with
55, 59 76. 4 Djurgårdsfärja. tion was eased in 1928, when the change to right-hand
some of the boat traffic was driving in 1967.
Steadily increasing traffic in the transferred to a new canal, but At Slussplan, facing Söder-
early 1900s turned the narrow the problem needed a more malm and the lock that bears
road between Södermalm and radical solution. This took the his name, is Bengt Fogelberg’s
Gamla Stan into a bottleneck. form of a clover-leaf system of bronze statue of Karl XIV on
All the boats sailing between roundabouts devised by Tage horseback, unveiled in 1854 by
Lake Mälaren and the Baltic had William-Olsson and Gösta Oscar I on the 40th anniversary
to pass through the locks here, Lundborg. It was opened in of the union between Sweden
and Norway (1814–1905).
Around the same time, the locks
were rebuilt. New machinery
devised by the inventor Nils
Ericsson was installed. Today the
locks are used mostly by
pleasure boats, whose erratic
manoeuvres provide enter-
tainment for onlookers.
Although the construction
of Västerbron and Söderleden
have eased the traffic burden,
Slussen is still a busy junction and
Slussen’s intricate traffic system, opened in 1935 is in need of a thorough facelift.
For map symbols see back flap
 SÖDERMALM & SOUTH OF SÖDER  129

2 Stockholms of Larsson’s best-selling

Stadsmuseum Millennium books (The
Girl with the Dragon Tattoo
Ryssgården. Map 4 B5. Tel 08-508 316 series), which are set in
00.  Slussen. @ 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76. Södermalm. The tours are
Closed for renovation until autumn
2 hours long and start at
2017 8 ^ 7 = -
∑ stadsmuseet.stockholm.se
Bellmansgatan 1, home
of character Mikael
Hemmed in between the traffic Blomkvist. Tours in English
roundabouts of Slussen and the take place on Saturdays
steep hill up to Mosebacke Torg at 11:30am even during Almgrens Sidenväveri (silk mill), now a museum with
is Stockholms Stadsmuseum the renovation period. working 19th-century looms
(City Museum). It is housed in a Tickets must be bought
late 17th-century building online in advance. when it carried 1.8 million
originally designed by Tessin people between Slussen
the Elder as Södra Stadshuset and Mosebacke Torg.
(Southern City Hall). After a fire, 3 Katarinahissen The lift is now closed to the
it was completed by Tessin the public; however, there is a mod-
Stadsgården. Map 4 C5.  Slussen.
Younger in 1685. It has been @ 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76. Closed to the
ern lift to reach the restaurant
used for various purposes over public. 0 J
and the veranda at the top of the
the centuries, including law building, from where amazing
courts and dungeons, schools Katarinahissen is the oldest of views can still be enjoyed.
and city-hall cellars, theatres Stockholm’s “high-rise” attractions.
and churches. It became the The 38-m (125-ft) high lift was
city museum in the 1930s. opened to the public in March 4 Almgrens Siden-
The museum, which is closed 1883 and is still a prominent väveri & Museum
for renovation until autumn silhouette on the Söder skyline. Repslagargatan 15a. Map 9 D2.
2017, documents the history of The first Swedish neon sign was Tel 08-642 56 16. Open 10am–4pm
Stockholm. During the erected here in Mon–Fri, 11am–3pm Sat (25 Jun–
renovation period it 1909 – a legendary 6 Aug: 11am–3pm Mon–Fri). 8 1pm
is organising daily advertisement for Mon, Wed & Sat. & = ∑ kasiden.se
city walks (most in Stomatol tooth-
Swedish). The city’s paste. Since the Karl August Almgren was the
main stages of 1930s, the sign has founder of Almgren’s silk-
development are Stomatol neon sign been placed on a weaving mill, now a museum,
described in a on Katarinahissen nearby rooftop. in 1833. While on a study tour
permanent exhi- The original lift was to Lyon and Tours in France
bition, and there are also regular driven by steam, but it switched in 1825, Almgren learned
temporary exhibitions. to electricity in 1915. In the about the punch-card
The library has a large 1930s it was replaced by a new system, which was one of
archive of pictures and a lift, when the Cooperative the secrets of France’s
documentary room. There are Association (KF) built its large dominance of the silk business.
also children’s activities, office complex at Slussen. In its Armed with this information,
concerts and lectures. first year the lift was used by he returned to Sweden with
The museum’s Stieg Larsson more than a million passengers, designs for modern looms
Millennium Tour visits the world but its record year was 1945, and opened his own mill. It
soon became a leader in the
market, which in the 1700s
had seen the establishment
of more than 30 silk-weaving
mills in Stockholm.
The Almgren family
continued the business until
1974, when the mill finally
closed. Everything was left
intact, and the mill took on a
new role in 1991 as a living
museum. In the weaving room
there is a museum shop selling
textiles. The area where the old
steam-driven machinery stood
is now used as a banqueting
room with well-preserved
Katarinahissen with Stockholms Stadsmuseum in the background 19th-century decorations.
130  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

5 Mosebacke designed by one of

Map 9 D2.  Slussen, then a short the era’s greatest
walk. @ 59, then a short walk. J architects, Jean de
la Vallée (1620–96).
The district of Mosebacke, King Karl X Gustaf
with its distinctive atmosphere, was also deeply
got its name from a miller and involved in the
landowner, Moses Israelsson, project, and he
the son-in-law of Johan insisted that the
Hansson Hök, who managed church should have
two mills on the hilltop plateau a central nave with
in the 17th century. the altar and pulpit
In the mid-19th century right in the middle.
Mosebacke became increasing- The church was
ly attractive to Stockholmers as founded in 1656,
a centre for entertainment. A although it was not
theatre was built in 1852. completed until
However, it was destroyed by 1695. In 1723 it
fire soon after and replaced in was badly damaged
1859 by a new building, Södra by fire, but it was
Teatern, designed by Johan Katarina Kyrka (1695) after its extensive restoration due to restored over the
Fredrik Åbom. The gateway a devastating fire in 1990 next couple of
leading to Mosebacke Terrass decades. Major
and its spectacular panoramic fireproof-gable design, Morning restoration was also carried out
views of the city was added at Light, an al secco painting on in the 20th century, and a new
the same time. limestone plaster. copper roof was added in 1988.
Södra Teatern is a classic Two years later, on the night of
among Stockholm’s stages. 16 May 1990, there was another
Around 1900 the auditorium 6 Katarina Kyrka fire and, apart from the outer
was enhanced with a ceiling Högbergsgatan 13. Map 9 D2. Tel 08- walls, the church and virtually
painting by Vicke Andrén. In 743 68 00.  Medborgarplatsen, all its fittings were destroyed.
the 1930s murals were added, then 3 min walk. @ 2, 3, 53, 76. Open The architectural practice
some by Isaac Grünewald. Carl 11am–5pm Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun of Ove Hidemark was commis-
Eldh’s bronze bust, The Young (Oct–Mar: Tue–Sun only). 8 by sioned to design a new church,
Strindberg, placed on the appointment. 5 noon & 6pm Wed, which, as far as possible, would
theatre’s terrace in 1975, 11am Sat, 11am Sun. 7 = be a faithful reconstruction
shows the author looking of the original. It was not just
across to the city from this very The buildings on Katarina- the outer shell of the building
terrace, recalling the character berget date partly from the that had to undergo detailed
of Arvid Falk in the beginning 18th century and surround a restoration. In order to make
of Strindberg’s novel The Red hilltop, where various churches the best use of the surviving
Room (1879). have been sited since the late walls, it was necessary to
Nils Sjögren’s sculpture The 14th century. The earlier adopt 17th-century building
Sisters stands behind railings on chapels were replaced in techniques throughout the
Mosebacke Torg. Attractive the 17th century by a more new building. Experts and
steps lead up to Fiskargatan. impressive and appropriate craftsmen managed to join
At No. 12 is an experimental building, Katarina Kyrka, heavy timbering on to the
central dome in the traditional
way, and the collapsed
central arch was rebuilt
with specially made bricks
in 17th-century style.
In 1995, the church was
reconsecrated, more beautiful
than ever in the view of many
people, with the altar sited exactly
where it was originally planned.
The reconstruction cost
270 million kronor, of which
145 million kronor were covered
by insurance. Such was the
popularity of the project that
the rest was raised through
Mosebacke Torg with Södra Teatern in the background public donations.
 SÖDERMALM & SOUTH OF SÖDER  131

7 Fjällgatan
Per Anders Fogelström (1917–98), probably Söder’s best-
known author, wrote: “Fjällgatan must be the city’s most
beautiful street. It’s an old-fashioned narrow street
which runs along the hilltop with well-maintained
cobble-stones… and with street lights jutting out from
the houses. Then the street opens up and gives a
fantastic view of the city and the water…” This area
offers an experience of the authentic Söder and its
The Heights of Söder
unique atmosphere.
With its 300-year-old houses and
terraced gardens, the Söder hilltop
stands like a giant stage-set behind
Stadsgården harbour.

0 metres 100

0 yards 100

Viewpoint with magnificent Café

vista across the city.

Fjällgatan
Most of the houses were built along this
picturesque street after a devastating fire in 1723.
No. 34 is said to be the area’s oldest.

Katarina
AN
Vägen AT
L LG
Ä
FJ

N
A
T
A
G
S
G
R
E
B
Stigberget IG
T
S

Mamsell Josabeth’s
Steps were named after Tjärhovsplan
Josabeth Sjöbert (1812–
82), a local painter.
Norwegian Sista Styverns Trappor
Church This alley of steps was once
known as Mikaelsgränd,
after a 17th-century
executioner. Later it was
named after the inn on
the harbour, Sista Styvern
(“The Last Penny”).
Söder Cottages
Typical well-preserved cottages can be
found along Stigbergsgatan. No. 17 was
Key
the house of the blockmaker Olof Krok
during the 1730s. Suggested route
132  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

8 Fåfängan
Map 6 A5. @ 53. - J

Fåfängan, at Södermalm’s most

easterly point, provides a
grandstand view of the boats
sailing in and out of Stockholm’s
harbour. In the 1650s, Field
Marshal Erik Dahlberg made full
use of its strategic location on a
hilltop to build a defensive
fortress. Some relics of this
period can still be seen.
The hill and its park were
given the name Fåfängan in the
1770s. The wholesale merchant Sofia Kyrka and Vita Bergen park with its 18th-century cottages
Fredrik Lundin owned the area
at that time, and he built a The museum has three per- altar fresco by Hilding Linnqvist
pavilion, which still stands on manent exhibitions covering with themes from the Old
the hilltop in a square garden 5,000 sq m (53,800 sq ft). One and New Testaments. The
filled with flowerbeds. The word shows the history of public interior acquired its present
“Fåfängan” (“Vanity”) originally transport with the help of some appearance as part of a major
denoted an area of land that 50 vehicles. Another section renovation in the early 1980s,
was not worth using. But in traces technical developments when the layout of the church
Stockholm it has a special from different eras. The third was radically altered.
meaning: “The pavilion on the section focuses on the artistically
hilltop with a marvellous view.” decorated underground stations
It is a delightful place for a coffee (see p202). There is also a library q Vita Bergen
break while exploring Söder. and archive. On Saturdays and Map 9 F3. @ 2, 3, 66, 76.
Sundays for most of the year
visitors can take two free round Vita Bergen (White Mountains)
9 Spårvägsmuseet trips on a vintage bus. is best known as a park, largely
Tegelviksgatan 22. Map 9 F3.
because of Swedish TV
Tel 08-686 17 60. @ 53, 55, 66. broadcasts from its open-air
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 0 Sofia Kyrka theatre. But it is more than
11am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 by appt. & Vitabergsparken. Map 9 F3.
just a park. Houses for workers
7 = - ∑ sparvagsmuseet.sl.se Tel 08- 615 31 00. @ 3, 4, 76. at Söder’s harbours and
Open 11am–5pm daily. 5 6:30pm factories were built on and
The Tram Museum, Spårvägs- Thu, 11am Sun. 8 by appt. 7 around the hilltop in the 18th
museet, covers the develop- = Concerts 3pm Sat. century. They were simple
ment of the Stockholm public ∑ svenskakyrkan.se homes, often with a small
transport system, SL, from the garden and surrounded by a
horse-drawn buses of the High up on Vita Bergen, fence. In 1736 the building of
19th century to the high-tech surrounded by a leafy green new wooden houses was
underground trains of today. park, is Sofia Kyrka, named after forbidden because of the fire
Visitors can try out old and Oscar II’s consort and built in risk, but the slum districts were
new trams and buses for 1902–6. exempted. As a result, areas
comfort and can experience The 35-year-old architect such as Bergsprängargränd still
a driver’s-eye view of the city Gustaf Hermansson, who had have houses that have retained
traffic on film. already designed several their original character and give
churches, including a good idea of life in bygone days.
Oscarskyrkan at Around 1900, when Sofia
Östermalm, created a Kyrka was built, the area was
monumental design with turned into a leafy hillside park.
both National Romantic This was complemented to the
and Gothic influences east by an area of allotment-
and tall spires, the highest garden cottages. Towards
reaching 78 m (256 ft). Malmgårdsvägen is the 300-year-
Three windows by old Werner Groen Malmgård
Olle Hjortzberg are all (suburban mansion). The park
that remain of the has a bronze statue, Elsa Borg
original decorations. (1972), by Astri Bergman Taube,
Horse-drawn tram from the 1890s on The early 1950s saw wife of the great troubadour
display in Spårvägsmuseet the addition of the large Evert Taube (see p59).
 SÖDERMALM & SOUTH OF SÖDER  133

w Medborgar-
platsen
Map 9 D3.  Medborgarplatsen.
@ 59, 66.

Södermalm’s natural centre is

Medborgarplatsen. The square
had been called Södra Bantorget
for more than 100 years, but
in 1939 it was renamed
Medborgarplatsen (Citizen’s
Square) on completion of
Medborgarhuset. The building,
designed by Martin Westerberg in
Functionalist and Neo-Classical
styles, contains an auditorium,
gym, swimming pool and library.
On the west side of the
square is Söderhallarna, a The lofty Södertorn and Ricardo Bofill’s curved building near Södra Station
complex of restaurants,
delicatessens and a cinema. e Södra Station malmsallén and the rail-shuttle
In 1984 the Göta Ark offices, Area station. A 200-m (660-ft) long
designed by Claes Mellin and avenue with 16 sculptures
Willy Hermansson, were added Map 8 C3.  Medborgarplatsen or cuts diagonally across the
on the northwest side. Mariatorget, then a short walk. @ 43, park, with a fountain and
55, 66.
Alongside the stairway to Södra pool in the middle. In the
Station is the Södertorn apart- northern part of the park a
ment block designed by the In the mid-19th century flower garden has been named
Danish architect Henning Larssen. Fatburen lake existed to the after the Swedish composer
At the entrance is Nana’s Fountain west of Medborgarplatsen. It Johan Helmich Roman (1694–
by Niki de Saint-Phalle, who also was filled in, and in the 1860s 1758). The arches of Bofill’s
created a large sculpture group a train station – Södra – was curved building shelter some
(see p78) at the Moderna museet opened nearby. In the 1980s interesting works of art.
(see pp82–3). The western corner the track site was transformed
of Medborgarhuset features a into a new residential area
17th-century gateway. Closer with approximately 3,000 r Leksaksmuseet
to Götgatan is Gustaf Nordahl’s apartments. Tegelviksgatan 22. Map 8 F3. Tel 08-
The Source of Life (1983). The district became a test- 641 61 00.  Slussen. @ 2, 55, 66.
Göran Strååt’s sculpture bed for the design concepts Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–
Kasper can be seen at the of the 1980s and was shaped 4pm Sat & Sun. 8 by appt. & 7
17th-century Lillienhoffska by architects’ efforts towards = - ∑ leksaksmuseet.se
Palatset. Stefan Thorén’s Stockholm’s urban renewal.
sculpture Dawn in welded iron The most interesting additions Toys, which have delighted
is a dominant feature on the were by the Spanish architect children and adults alike over
square outside. Ricardo Bofill. He designed the the past century, are on show
tower blocks near to at Leksaksmuseet (the Toy
the station building Museum). The museum was
as well as the curved opened in 1980, and the main
residential building exhibition changes continu-
– the area’s most ously as new toys are added
impressive Neo- to the collection.
Classical feature – One section features musical
which adjoins instruments, including musical
Fatbur Park. boxes, barrel organs and
The park has an accordions. Another area is
open section close devoted to mechanical toys,
to Bofill’s curved models and dioramas. A third
building, with a section has dolls, dolls’ houses,
wooded area further wooden toys, steam engines,
away. It is crossed by and several working model
a path, which links railways. Private collections
Medborgarplatsen, central Södermalm, with Medborgarplatsen are also on show. There is a
Lillienhoffska Palatset, once a poorhouse with Söder- playroom and children’s theatre.
134  MALMARNA & FURTHER AFIELD

Scandinavia – as well as the

frescoes in the baptismal chapel
and the decoration of the pulpit
and organ loft. Erik Jerke created
the reredos in Byzantine style.
In the cemetery chapel below
the chancel, Einar Forseth
designed an apse mosaic
using the same techniques
he employed for Gyllene Salen
(the Golden Room) in
Stadshuset (see pp116–7).
Bastugatan, one of Mariaberget’s well-preserved 18th-century streets By no means everything in
the church is new. The font is
t Mariaberget site where there have been reli- from the 16th century, and the
Map 8 C2.  Mariatorget. @ 43, 55.
gious buildings since the 14th seven-stemmed candlestick on
century. The predecessor of the the altar dates from the
A fire in 1759 destroyed the old present building was constructed 18th century.
buildings of Mariaberget. The in 1634. It burnt down in 1759
area was rebuilt according to and was rebuilt four years later.
a 1736 law forbidding the
construction of wooden houses
in this part of Söder. The result y Högalidskyrkan
of this purposeful 18th-century Högalids Kyrkväg. Map 1 C5. Tel
town planning remains intact. 08-616 88 00.  Hornstull. @ 4, 66,
Mariaberget’s stone buildings 74. Open 9am–noon & 1–3pm
on the slopes down towards Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, 9am–noon Wed,
Riddarfjärden are among 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. 5 noon
Stockholm’s most distinctive, Wed, 1pm Thu, 11am Sun. 7 = Exercise yard in the former royal
and the character of the steep prison on Långholmen
winding streets and alleys has The octagonal twin towers
been well preserved. of Högalidskyrkan make the u Långholmen
Towards the end of the 20th church easy to identify from Map 1 B5.  Hornstull, then 3 min
century a conservation pro- many parts of the city. The walk. @ 66. S
gramme was implemented to impressive brick building in
safeguard the area’s cultural National Romantic style was Below the majestic Västerbron
heritage, including the view completed in 1923. It was (see p115) is the island of
over Riddarfjärden. Near designed by Ivar Tengbom. Långholmen, which is linked to
Bastugatan, an attractive He also put his mark on the Södermalm by two bridges.
promenade, Monteliusvägen, interior decoration, which Långholmen is best known for
has been built along the rock’s involved a number of leading the various prisons, which have
edge. A new flight of steps artists and craftsmen. been located here since 1724.
leads down to the Söder Tengbom was enlisted to During the 20th century the
Mälarstrand quayside. design the columbarium, which prison here was the largest in
The author Ivar Lo-Johansson was added in 1939. The most Sweden, housing 620 inmates.
(1901–90) lived in this area for prolific artist was Gunnar When the prison closed in 1975,
more than half a century. A Torhamn, who provided the island became a popular
small park with a bust of the the Crucifix – the largest in recreational area.
artist bears his name. The The prison buildings were
18th-century poet C M Bellman demolished in 1982, but the
(see p98) was born at Maria- old royal jail dating from 1835
berget, although he is more remains. The one-time cells now
usually associated with Haga form part of a hotel, as well as a
and Djurgården. prison museum. There is also a
Mariaberget presents a pleas- youth hostel and an excellent
ant contrast to the busy traffic restaurant, as well as a small
artery of Hornsgatan. When the museum to the poet C M
street was widened and levelled Bellman (see p98) with a café in
in 1901, a number of 18th- the gardens, which run down
century buildings came into view. towards Riddarfjärden.
The area now features galleries Långholmen’s park has an
and antiques shops. On the open-air theatre, and offers
opposite side of Hornsgatan is The distinctive twin towers of excellent swimming both from
Maria Magdalena Kyrka, on a Högalidskyrkan, built in 1923 the beaches and the rocks.
 SÖDERMALM & SOUTH OF SÖDER  135

i Globen
3 km (2 miles) S of Stockholm.
 Globen. Tel 08-50 83 53 00.
Open during events. 8 by appt.
7 - = ∑ globen.se

The Globen, or Ericsson Globe,

is Sweden’s national indoor
arena. Built to represent the Sun
in the Swedish Solar System, the
unusual structure took two and a
half years to build and opened in
1989. It is the world’s largest
hemispherical building and seats
up to 16,000 spectators. Chapel of the Holy Cross by Gunnar Asplund at Skogskyrkogården
The Globen is primarily used
for ice hockey, and is home o Skogskyrko- steep shingled roof, was opened
to the Swedish national team. gården at the same time as the cemetery
The arena has also been used in 1920. This was followed 5 years
for major cultural events. In 1989, 6 km (4 miles) S of Stockholm. later by Uppståndelsekapellet
Tel 08-508 317 30.  Skogskyrko-
Pope John Paul II held Mass at (Resurrection Chapel), designed
gården. @ 183 (weekends only).
the Globen – the first ever Mass by Lewerentz.
8 Jul–Sep: 10:30am Sun (in English).
to be conducted by a pope in 7 - ∑ skogskyrkogarden.se
In 1940 Asplund’s last great
Sweden. The Dalai Lama and work, Skogskrematoriet
Nelson Mandela are among the Nature and the splendid (Woodland Crematorium), was
many influential figures who buildings have combined to opened, along with its three
have given speeches here. provide a harmonious setting, chapels representing Faith,
The arena is also a popular venue which has placed Skogskyrko- Hope and the Holy Cross.
for concerts, and has hosted gården Cemetery on the They are sited along Korsets
international artists such as UNESCO World Heritage list. It Väg. John Lundqvist’s The
U2, the Rolling Stones is sited amid pinewoods, Resurrection stands in the
and Beyoncé. which provide a justly pillared hall of Heliga Korsets
Visitors can take in sombre framework Kapell – the largest of the three.
sweeping views of for the chapels Adjoining the chapel is
Stockholm from and crematorium. Asplund’s black granite cross.
SkyView, an inclined The winners of a A memorial park was added
lift on the exterior of competition to de- in 1961 to the north-west of the
the building. Two Epitaph to Gunnar Asplund sign the cemetery in chapel. The Hill of Meditation
specially designed 1914 were Gunnar lies to the west. The chapel has
glass gondolas, each carrying Asplund (see p119) and Sigurd been decorated by artists
16 passengers, take visitors Lewerentz, whose proposals including Carl Milles, Sven
to the apex of the globe, which were considered the most likely Erixson and Gunnar Torhamn.
is 130 m (425 ft) above sea level. to safeguard the area’s special Skogskyrkogården is the last
There are often long queues for character. Asplund’s first resting place of both the
SkyView, especially at weekends significant work, Skogskapellet unknown and the celebrated,
and during school holidays, so (Woodland Chapel), with its among whom is Greta Garbo.
it is advisable to book your slot
well in advance.
Greta Garbo
The legendary Greta Garbo, one of the 20th century’s outstanding
film stars, was born in 1905 in a humble part of Södermalm. At the
age of 17 she joined the theatre academy of
Dramaten and made her film debut in Peter
the Tramp. Her breakthrough came in 1924
in Mauritz Stiller’s film of Selma Lagerlöf’s
book The Atonement of Gösta Berling. The
following year she moved to Hollywood,
where she soon became the reigning star.
Garbo appeared in 24 films, including Anna
Karenina (1935) and Camille (1936). She
never married and lived a solitary life until
her death in 1990. Her ashes were interred Garbo in As You Desire
The silhouette of Globen arena at the Skogskyrkogården Cemetery in 1999. Me (1932)
dominating the surrounding area
136  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

THREE GUIDED WALKS

Stockholm is a perfect city for walking. Not city’s most appealing districts: discover
only is it flat, but it is also one of Europe’s less residential Södermalm (also known as “Söder”)
crowded capital cities, making it ideal for south of the centre, with great views of the city
stress-free strolling through the streets and centre; take in some of Stockholm’s best park-
thoroughfares. Many of Stockholm’s land on Djurgården – the perfect destination
pedestrian areas also have cycle paths running for a picnic; and finally, explore the commercial
alongside them, so take care to observe the heart of the Swedish capital, following a route
painted signs on the ground, indicating which which takes you past leading department
side of the line you should walk. These guided stores and boutiques, as well as more sedate
walks have been devised to cover some of the churches and monuments.

A view of Stockholm from Södermalm

Key
Walk route

Stadsbiblioteket (the city library) in central

Stockholm (see p119)
0 kilometres 1

0 miles 1

A 90-Minute Walk around

the City Centre (pp140–41)

Vasastaden
Gärdet

Birkastan
Östermalm

Ladugårdsgärdet

Norrmalm

Kungsholmen City Blasie-

holmen

Skepps- Djurgården
Gamla holmen
Riddarfjärden Stan

Saltsjön

Södermalm

A 30-Minute Walk around A 90-Minute Walk on

Södermalm (p137) Djurgården (pp138–9)
 THREE GUIDED WALKS  137

A 30-Minute Walk around Södermalm

Winding through a charming mix of narrow residential streets
and neighbourhood allotments with their red and white
summer cottages, this walk also offers the best views of
Stockholm from anywhere in the city. There is also the chance to
browse in some of the more quirky stores or stop at a streetside
café whilst exploring this largely undiscovered side of Stockholm.

Begin at Södermalms torg 1, sought after addresses. Turn

the heart of one of Stockholm’s right into Bellmansgatan and
main traffic interchanges, head north towards Söder’s
Slussen. Before leaving the northern shore, then take a left
into pretty, cobbled Bastugatan
4, full of 18th-century houses.
Turn right into Blecktornsgränd 7 Boats serving as floating hotels lining
5 to see some of the finest Söder Mälarstrand
views in the city, with open
vistas out over Riddarholmen,
Gamla Stan and the city centre. 0 metres 500

Follow the narrow path of 0 yards 500

Monteliusvägen 6 west,
enjoying the sweeping views
5 View of Riddarholmen from
KARL
Blecktornsgränd Riddarfjärden Central- JOHANS
TORG
bron
7 6 5S ÖDER MÄ L AR
ST RA N
SG ATA N D SLUSSEN
K NUT S SON

MARIABERGET
TORKEL

SKINNARVIKS-
4 1
PARKEN BASTUG.
ST G A
TA N 2 SÖDER-
MALMSTORG
SG TAVA G.
BO RG SRINGEN RKA
HE LE NE AN VIK NKY
AT AR BRÄN
NN N
G SKI AT A 3
GÖT

DS
LI NSG
B E LL

Slussen
HOR
T IM M

GA
RAGV

ATA N
TO R K

G ATA

HÖ TA N RKAG
MAN

AGA NKY MARIA-

LU N D BRÄN
ERM

ALDSG

TORGET
EL K

Maria-
N
SG A

LS G .
VA RV

A N SG

Zinkensdamm torget K T PA
U
NU

SA N
.
TA N

TA N
TS SO

RGA
SG

Maria-
R IN G

N
ATA N

KA
AT A KMA
NSG KRU torget
HOR
N SG
VÄ G

q ATA N
U LL SG 8
EN

YXK ATA
S- MAR R D SG
B ER G W O LL RÄ ST G Å SG A
TA N
K EN
D R A G ATA N IA P BERG
ROSE

MAR HÖG
ATA
0 O LG
NLUN

G M . SK
ZIN K E N S V Ä
TIGEN 9 MA
Key
DSG.

R IA
SVIKSS BAN
HORN GA
TA

TANTOLUNDEN Walk route

square, glance up at the roofs of on your right; several of the steps of Pipmakartrappan
the surrounding buildings and house-boats below on Söder back to Hornsgatan and the
you’ll see Sweden’s first ever Mälarstrand 7 now serve as end of the walk q.
neon sign for the now defunct floating hotels.
Stomatol toothpaste. From At Timmermansgatan head
Tips for Walkers
Södermalms torg, head west south until you reach Wollmar
along Hornsgatan 2. Söder has Yxkullsgatan 8, considered by Starting point: The easiest way
a plethora of good restaurants some to be the heart to get to the start of the walk is to
and unusual shops, and on the of Södermalm. take the T-bana to Slussen;
initial stretch of this long road Now head right along Södermalms torg is just outside
you will also find many small, Wollmar Yxkullsgatan until you the main exit.
Length: 2.5 km (1.6 miles)
interesting art galleries. On the reach Ringvägen. Cross this road
Duration: Half an hour
left as you make your way along and take the delightful Zinkens
Stopping-off points: There are
Hornsgatan you’ll soon pass the Väg 9 through an area of
plenty of cafés and shops along
17th century Maria Magdalena allotments and small summer Hornsgatan for a break or rest.
Kyrka 3 designed by the same cottages in the Zinkensdamm Ending the walk: At the end
architects as the Royal Palace. area 0. Owners often spend of the walk you can take the
Now leave the main road several days at a time here Zinkensdamm T-bana located
to walk along some of Söder’s pottering in their gardens. After on Hornsgatan (two stops west
residential streets which are passing the Zinkensdamm youth of Slussen).
among Stockholm’s most hostel, head north up the
For map symbols see back flap
138  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Walk on Djurgården

This delightful walk offers a chance to explore the former
royal hunting grounds of Djurgården, an island which forms
the northern side of Stockholm harbour. Heavily wooded
and dotted with grand old houses, the island offers peace,
tranquillity and some of the city’s most striking museums.
There are also stunning views across Stockholm from the
top of the Kaknäs TV tower.

Nordiska museet to Ryssviken vertical drop of around 100 m

The walk starts at the palatial (330 ft). From here Djurgårdsvägen
Nordiska museet 1, one of the swings east on its way around
city’s best museums, which Djurgården. Follow the road to
provides a good grounding in the small inlet, Ryssviken 4,
the history of everyday Swedish where you could end the walk
life. From the museum, follow if you wish and take the Tram 7 The greenery of Djurgården as seen
Djurgårdsvägen south, looking back to the city. from the air
out for the boat-shaped
building behind the Nordiska

TAN
AN

ö GA
museet. Here resides the AT
SG

SKARP
E

e
RD

U NN S VÄ GE N
former warship, Vasa. She ÅRDSB R
D JURG
GÄ

Karlaplan EN
ÄG

GE N
sank in Stockholm harbour 800m (740 yards) S T R A NDV
AN
AT w

MU SE IVÄ
on her maiden voyage in 1628 r BE
LG
NOBEL- NO
(see pp94–6). t PARKEN

Continuing on, you will soon

Djurgårdsbrunnsviken
come to the eclectic Liljevalchs
Konsthall art gallery 2 (see p97) KÄRLEKS-
D E B E S CHE S
VÄ G
UDDEN SEND ALSV
which hosts frequently RO ÄG
EN
changing exhibitions of art and VÄ
GE
N SI
RI
SH SSEN
1 LS
RRA

DA
sculpture. Once at Almänna RO
SEN
O
VS
TE
VÄ

Gränd, you are entering the S

AL
G EN

SÖDRA
D

N
pleasure zone: there are often VARVSPORTEN RO S E
O
RA
crowds of children here heading NG
V ÄGEN

ER
IV
Ä
for the amusement park, Gröna
G
OVS

EN

S KANS E N
Lund 3 (see p97), which G
I SH

2 S
VÄ
features several hair-raising
SIR

AN
M
LL
rides including the “Free Fall”, a
BE

A
NN DJURGÅRDS-
MÄ D BELLMANSRO
ALL RÄN
G 3 SLÄTTEN SI NGELBAC
KEN
RD S VÄ G E
R GÅ N
DJU
Tips for Walkers
4 PRIN
SE ÄG
U G E NS V
Starting point: Tram number 7
Ryssviken
or bus 44 will bring you closest to Beckholms-
bron FRISENS PARK
the Nordiska museet.
Length: 8.5 km (5.3 miles)
Duration: One and a half to 2
hours
5
Stopping-off points: A great
spot for lunch or a cup of coffee
Ryssviken to Blockhusudden
is the Blå Porten, Djurgårdsvägen
64, near the Liljevachs Konsthall
From Ryssviken, take the path
art gallery. The café at the top of south to the promontory
the Kaknästornet TV tower has known as Waldemarsudde 5
the best views of Stockholm. (see p99) with its good views
End point: You could end this across the harbour and
walk early at Blockhusudden, excellent art gallery specialising
which is conveniently the in late 19th-century Nordic art.
terminus for the 69 bus which From here, it is a pleasant
runs all the way back into the walk along the waterfront to
centre of the city via Strandvägen another small promontory,
and Sergels torg. From the end of Biskopsudden 6.
the walk at Strandvägen buses 69 Heading east a short distance
and 79 run back to the centre. along Biskopsvägen, pick up The Vasamuseet, home to the former
another path along the shore warship, the Vasa
For map symbols see back flap
 THREE GUIDED WALKS  139

which begins just south of the

junction with Djurgårdsvägen
7. This path leads to the
eastern end of Djurgården,
Blockhusudden 8, which gives
views of the hi-tech business
centre, Nacka Strand, on the
southern side of the harbour
and the residential area,
Jarlaberg, high on the cliffs
above. The arcing sculpture of
a boy atop a crescent of steel
that you can see across the
water is Gud på himmelsbågen, Carl Milles’ sculpture, Gud på himmelsbågen
by Stockholm sculptor Carl
Milles (see p152). Blockhusudden to This is a long diversion from
Berwaldhallen concert hall the main route, but worth it
On foot, continue northeast if you are feeling energetic.
to Lilla Sjötullsbron bridge 0. At 155 m (508 ft) high, the
The stretch of path before the tower is one of the tallest
q
bridge runs past a marshy pond, buildings in Scandinavia and
N
especially preserved for its even boasts a café at around
ÄS V Ä G E
KN birdlife. Once over the bridge, 120 m (390 ft) elevation.
DJ KA
UR head west along the tranquil From the tower, backtrack to
L ID

GÅ
OV

RD HU N
SB DUD canal to meet upwith the main walk and head west
ÄG

RU D S V Ä GEN
Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen along the canal path past a
EN

NN
SV

which leads towards the clutch of museums on your

ÄG

Kaknästornet TV tower right, including the Sjöhistoriska

EN

ES
SCH VÄ G q (see p110). museet w (see pp108–9), which
DE B E
RO
SEND A L SVÄ G
EN
Djurgårds-
brunnsbron reveals Sweden’s maritime
ISR Dj
A
EL
ur
gå
rd
history. Further along the path,
sb
the imposing villas on the right
A

ru
MA
F

nn
ST

ska KANAL
AL L
RÖ

n ale ÉN
are part of Diplomatstaden
NIL

n
M

P R INS CA
S

VÄ
L AV

R LS V
Ä Lilla (“Diplomat’s Town”, see
G

G
ÄGEN

Sjötulls-
F RE
bron p108), home to several
D RIK
BL
O
0 Embassies, including that
MS
VÄ EDEL
Isblads-
of the United States of
ÄG

G S TA kärret
RG AN

M
SV

S
BO SS

VÄ
DJURGÅRDEN America e. The spire rising
GE SE

G
IN PRIN

RINS E
from behind the waterfront
P S S AN MÄ
R
houses belongs to Engelska
TA
SV

G
Kyrkan r, the English
Ä

GE
N BLO
CK HU S R INGE
N Church. To finish the
7 DJ
UR
G Å RDS
VÄ SJÖ
TUL
LSB walk, take the path
9 AC
KE
Blockhusudden
N
around Nobel Parken
Route 69 and end at
Bus Terminus
6 8 Strandvägen, with its
elegant façades lining
the waterfront t.
0 metres 500

0 yards 500

Key
Walk route

Blockhusudden is also home to

Thielska Galleriet 9 (see p99), a
superb art gallery with a fine
collection of 19th-century
Scandinavian art. If you wish
to end the walk at this point,
there is a bus from here back
to the city. t Palatial waterfront houses along Strandvägen
140  STOCKHOLM AREA BY AREA

A 90-Minute Walk around the City Centre

This walk will take you right through the heart of Stockholm,
giving you a chance to browse in the city’s best shops or to
enjoy a coffee and pastry in one of the many cafés you’ll pass.
It also provides a chance to see some of the imposing buildings
that Stockholm has to offer, such as the magnificent Konserthuset
or the architecturally interesting Stadsbiblioteket. The route also
includes a park or two where you can take a break and escape
the bustling streets. 5 Plaque in memory of Olof Palme

KA
AN RL
AT AV
NG
HA
E

TU

JARLSGATAN
OD Ä
GA
G

LE
EN

BIRGER
GA

GA
AN
TA

TA
A

SV
N SG
N

A D
w

N
G AT V AR

EA
Odenplan EN RK
OD MA

VÄ
AN
G Y AT A

GE
0 AT
G

ODEN- SG N
ID N

PLAN HN TA
NO

RE

N
GA
ÉN

NS
q TE
-
RR

N GS
TU

KU
UP

OBSERVATORIE-
VE

Rådmans-
LL
PL

GA

LUNDEN gatan AN
SG
AN

AT
GA

DÖ
SG
AT
DS

LU
e AN
TA

BE
AN
GA

DM

NT
N

RÅ

LN
TA

MA

SG
N

TAN
KA

AT
GA
RIE
RG
N

AN
SA

TO TA
RVA AT GA
HO

LT

N
7 Strindberg’s study at Strindbergsmuseet BSE TA AN GN
ÉR
MÄ

O GA
LL

E NS TE
ÄN

ST
TA

Blå Tornet (The Blue Tower), Drottninggatan NG Rådmans-

RG
DA

KU gatan
AT
RG

AN
AT

Sergels Torg to AN
AN

AT
AN
SG
TA
N r
Adolf Fredriks Kyrka RÅ
DM 8 ÉR
GA
GN
TE
This walk begins at Sergels Torg
LU

(see p69) 1, a split-level square 7

SV

NT

TEGNÉR-
DR

MA

LUNDEN
widely regarded as the very
EA

6
OT

KA
TN

VÄ

centre of the modern city. It is N

RG

TA
IN

GA TA
AT

R GA
KA
GG

F
GE

marked by a tall glass obelisk A OL KO

AN

MM AD KYR
OL
AT

KA S
N

IK
which is illuminated at night. N
OF
AN

R
5
A
G AT ED
SG

IN FR
LL
From this point, take
AT

WA Hötorget
AN

TA
pedestrianised Sergelgatan to her by the ground GA
LM
ES t
PA
north to reach the city’s main floor entrance. OL
OF AN
G AT
market square, Hötorget (see On the opposite side of BE
R GS
EL
AP
p70) 2, full of vegetables and Hötorget is the grand Hötorget
4 TA
N
3
flowers for sale. It was in the Konserthuset (see p70) 3, GS
GA
2
N
KU
PUB department store here in home to the Swedish Royal
SE
RG

the square that film legend Philharmonic Orchestra. In front

ELG

Hötorget
Greta Garbo sold hats in the of Konserthuset stands Carl
AT A
N

millinery department; there Mille’s sculpture, Orpheus. Across

is a small exhibition devoted Kungsgatan you will see the Kungshallen
ER AN
S T AT
shopping mall M ÄE L S G
MU
4, which also SA
1
contains several
T-Centralen
cafés and
restaurants. From
Kungsgatan turn left
into Sveavägen. At the
junction with Olof
Palmes Gata you will find a
plaque in the pavement that
marks the spot where the
former Swedish Prime Minister,
Olof Palme, was gunned down
in 1986 as he left a nearby
3 The colourful Hötorget market, outside Konserthuset cinema with his wife 5.
For map symbols see back flap
 THREE GUIDED WALKS  141

A short distance to the north, constructed much

still on Sveavägen, Palme’s earlier in 1692.
grave can be visited in the Look out for a set
churchyard at Adolf Fredriks of stone steps on the
Kyrka (see p72) 6. left which lead down
onto Kungsgatan
Blå Tornet to Odenplan beside the Neo-Classical
Just after the church, turn left Kungstornen twin
into Kammakargatan to reach towers (see pp70–71) t,
the former home of writer which dominate this
August Strindberg, now a part of the city. Once on
museum, Blå Tornet (see p71) 7, Kungsgatan, you will
at the corner of Drottninggatan. find a good selection
Head uphill on Drottninggatan, of cafés and stylish
past small quirky shops and shops, as well as several
various popular cafés 8. cinemas near the
Once past Kungstensgatan, Kungstornen bridge.
Drottninggatan becomes The walk ends with a
Norrtullsgatan and continues short stroll downhill to
north along the side of Stureplan, (see pp72–3)
Observatorielunden 9, a leafy t The imposing Kungstornen (King’s Towers) y an open square
park which hides Stockholm’s on Kungsgatan that is the centre of
former observatory dating Stockholm’s vibrant
from 1753. At the end Stockholm’s main squares, nightlife and a popular
ERIKSBERGS-
N
of the road you’ll Odenplan 0, a large open meeting place.
PARKEN TA
GA reach another of
RGS
area of superb 19th-century
R U N E BE
architecture dominated by the
ERIKSBERGS-
PLAN Neo-Baroque Gustav Vasa Kyrka
(see p119) q. There is a T-bana
G.
NS
ER
SO station here if you want to cut
IV
the walk short.
KE
JUT AS BAC
HUMLEGÅRDEN Odenplan to Stureplan
REG ERI NG SGA

From Odenplan, head

east along
ENGELBREKTS-
N

Odengatan past
TA
TAN

PLAN
GA

HU
DA VID BA
GA RES GA
TA ML
EG some university
RE

ÅR
DS
TU

GA
TA
N buildings to reach
EV

TA N
BR UN NS GA the city library,
GR

KU NG SGA
TAN y Stadsbiblioteket (see
STURE-
PLAN p119) w, designed by
AR GATAN
Gunnar Asplund and
LÄS TM AK Östermalms-
OXTORGSG. widely regarded as one
BIB LIO TEK

torg
NO RRL AND

RG SGATAN
R ID
DA
of Stockholm’s finest q The impressive doorway of the
JAK OB SBE RD
GA
TA
N Functionalist build- Neo-Baroque Gustav Vasa Kyrka
SG ATA N

ings. Next, take a

SGATAN

ATA N
AN

T E R SA M UE L SG
MÄS
AT

right into Sveavägen

Tips for Walkers
OG

SGATAN
SM ÅLA ND
and head south towards
REG ERI NG

BR
NY

the prestigious Stockholm Starting point: Sergels Torg is

NYBRO- School of Economics, easily accessible from Stockholm’s
S

N
HA MN GATA PLAN
main T-bana station, T-Centralen.
KUNGSTRÄD-
BERZELI
Handelshögskolan e, where
GATA N

PARK
GÅRDEN
competition for places is When leaving the platform
extremely fierce. simply follow the signs for
From here turn left into Sergels torg.
Length: 3.5 km (2.2 miles)
Rehnsgatan and walk a short
Duration: One and a half hours
distance east before turning
Key Stopping-off points: For cafés,
right into Döbelnsgatan which, try the Kungshallen shopping
Walk route leading south, eventually mall at Hötorget or Kungsgatan
becomes Malmskillnadsgatan. and Stureplan. The Saluhallen
Johannes Kyrka r, a 19th- indoor market in Hötorget is
century Neo-Gothic church set the best place in Stockholm
in a small park, can be seen on for ethnic treats and delicious
0 metres 300
your left. The wooden steeple, Middle Eastern snacks.
0 yards 300 which stands next to it was
 EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM  143

E XCURSIONS FROM
STOCKHOLM
Stockholm’s strategic location between the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren
provides the backdrop for a range of excursions that offer an insight into
Swedish life and history. To the east lies the beautiful archipelago with its
24,000 islands and skerries. To the west are the more sheltered beaches and
islands of Mälaren with a cultural heritage stretching back to the time of the
Vikings and before.

The wide stretches of water to the east Around Lake Mälaren’s shores are many
and west of Stockholm are markedly other majestic palaces, elegant manor
different, in terms of both their natural houses and small historic towns like
environment and history. The Vikings and Mariefred, which was established in the
their ancestors headed west from the early 17th century and has retained its old-
capital towards the present-day Lake time character ever since. It is home to
Mälaren for defensive reasons, before the Sweden’s National Portrait Gallery.
gradual rising of the land transformed To the east of the city, the rising of the
what was once a Baltic inlet into a land since the Ice Age has provided a
freshwater lake. largely untouched archipelago with over
Sweden’s first town, Birka, was founded 24,000 islands, rocks and skerries. The
on the island of Björkö in the 8th scene of many enemy attacks from the
century, but archaeological finds sea, the archipelago lacks the cultural
indicate that people have been using treasures that characterize Mälaren, but it
this area for trading with other countries does boast plenty of splendid natural
since the 6th century. Evidence of these scenery. The boat trip from Nybrokajen or
early residents can be found on Björkö Slussen to the leafy Fjäderholmarna
to this day. Along with the royal palace islands takes about half an hour, but a full
of Drottningholm, on nearby Lovön, day should be allowed for an excursion to
Birka is included on the list of UNESCO the outer archipelago with its smooth
World Heritage Sites. rocks and wide bays.

Enjoying the sunny weather in the grounds of Drottningholm Palace

The sun sets behind the bell tower of Stadshuset in Kungsholmen
144  EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM

Excursions from Stockholm

Stockholm is surrounded by a remarkable
natural landscape which provides an attractive setting for Key

excursions. Idyllic towns, majestic castles and prehistoric Motorway

settlements dot the shores of Mälaren to the west. On the Major road
eastern side are the islands of the archipelago with their Minor road
traditional wooden houses, and cosy hotels and youth Railway
hostels. Annual sailing regattas attract yachting enthusiasts Minor railway
from all over the world. Everything is easily accessible by
scheduled boat services, making the journey itself a
memorable experience. Uppsala

Märsta
Sigtuna

STENINGE
SLOTT Rosersberg Lindholmen

Vallentuna
Upplands-
Väsby
Bro
Täby Kyrkby
Kungsängen

Drottningholms Slott on Lovön in Lake Mälaren

Sollentuna Täby

Järfälla
Danderyd

Munsö Sundyberg
Adelsö Hässelby MILLESGÅRDEN
Fär i n g s ö
MÄLAREN Lovön
Stenhamra
BIRKA Stockholm
Björkö DROTTNINGHOLM
Hägersten Enskede
E ke rö
Ekerö Älvsjö
Örebro
MARIEFRED Ekeby Botkyrka
Huddinge

Salem
Tullinge
Södertälje Rönninge Tumba
Nykvarn
0 kilometres 10
Jordbro
0 miles 7 Norrköping
Västerhaninge

Getting There
All the excursion destinations on this map Tungelsta

can be reached in summer by scheduled

boat services from Stockholm’s city centre.
Those on Lake Mälaren are operated by Sights at a Glance
Strömma Kanalbolaget or Gripsholms- 1 Drottningholm pp146–9 7 Vaxholm
Mariefreds Ångfartygs AB. Most of those in
2 Birka 8 Grinda
the archipelago are operated by Wax-
3 Mariefred 9 Finnhamn
holmsbolaget (see p204). Other destinations
4 Steninge Slott 0 Sandhamn
on the mainland can be reached by car or
bus, and by train to Mariefred. See also the 5 Millesgården q Utö

checklist for individual sights. 6 Fjäderholmarna

For map symbols see back flap

 EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM  145

Excursions by Steamboat
Traditional steamboats are a picturesque
feature on the waters around Stockholm.
Both in the archipelago and on Lake Mälaren
visitors can still enjoy the quiet, calm
atmosphere of a steamboat voyage. One of
the real veterans, SS Blidösund (1911), is
operated by voluntary organizations and
serves mostly the northern archipelago. Some
routes, for example Stockholm–Mariefred, are
operated partly or completely by steamers.
Most of the other passenger boats from the
early 20th century have been fitted with oil-
fired engines but still provide a nostalgic SS Blidösund, one of the oldest in Stockholm’s fleet of renovated
journey back in time. steamboats still in regular service

Karby

N. Ljusterö
Österåker FINNHAMN

Åkersberga
S. Ljusterö
Svinninge
Resaro Möja

Bogesunds- GRINDA Möja

landet VAXHOLM

Lidingö Värmdö
Ormingelandet Vindö BA LT I C
FJÄDERHOLMARNA Värmdö- SEA
landet
Gustavsberg Djurö

Boo Skeppdalstrom
Nacka Stavsnäs SANDHAMN
Brunn Sandön
Fågelbrolandet Runmarö
Saltsjöbaden
Ålta
Ingarö
Tyresö

Skogås
Brevik
Nämndö

Handen

Dalarö

Gålö

Ornö

Mysingen

UTÖ
Huvudskär in Stockholm’s outer archipelago
146  EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM

1 Drottningholm
With its palace, theatre, park and Chinese Pavilion, the whole
of Drottningholm has been included in UNESCO’s World
Heritage list. The royal palace on the island of Lovön
emerged in its present form towards the end of the 17th
century, and was one of the most lavish buildings of its era.
Contemporary Italian and French architecture inspired
Tessin the Elder (1615–81) in his design, which was also
intended to glorify royal power. The project was completed
by Tessin the Younger, while 18th-century architects like Carl
Hårleman and Jean Eric Rehn put the finishing touches to
Baroque Garden
the interiors. The Royal Family uses part of the palace as its The bronze statue of Hercules
private residence. (1620s) by the Dutch Renaissance
sculptor Adrian de Vries adorns
the parterre in the palace’s
Baroque Gardens.

The Upper South

Bodyguard Room
This ante-room to the State
Room, used for ceremonial
occasions, was decorated
with stucco works by
Giovanni and Carlo Carove,
and ceiling paintings by
Johan Sylvius.

KEY

1 Apartments of the Royal Family

2 Writing Table by Georg Haupt
in the Queen’s Room is a masterpiece
(1770) commissioned by King Adolf
Fredrik as a gift to Queen Lovisa
Ulrika. Textiles for the walls and
furnishings date from the 1970s.
3 The Palace Church in the
northern cupola was completed by
Hårleman in the 1720s.
 DROTTNINGHOLM  147

. Queen Lovisa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Ulrika’s Library
The Queen commis- Practical Information
sioned Jean Eric Rehn 10 km (6 miles) W of Stockholm.
(1717–93) to decorate Palace: Tel 08-402 62 70.
this splendid library, ∑ royalcourt.se
which emphasizes her Open Jan–Mar: noon–3:30pm Sat
influence on art and & Sun; Apr: 11am–3:30pm daily;
science in Sweden in May–Sep: 10am–4:30pm daily;
the 18th-century. Oct: 11am–3:30pm Fri–Sun; Nov–
Dec: noon–3:30pm Sat & Sun.
Closed public hols. 8 & ^
= Chinese Pavilion: Open May–
Aug: 11am–4:30pm daily; Sep:
noon–3:30pm daily. 8 & ^
Theatre Museum: Tel 08-759 04
06. Open May–Sep. 8 &
Transport
 Brommaplan, then bus 176,
177, 301, 323.g May–Sep fr
Stadshusbron.

Entrance

. Queen Hedvig
Eleonora’s State Bedroom
Morning receptions
(“levées”) were held in
this lavish Baroque
room designed by Tessin
the Elder. It took about 15
years for Sweden’s foremost
artists and craftsmen to
. The Staircase decorate the room, which
Trompe l’oeil paint- was completed in 1683.
ings by Johan Sylvius
adorn the walls, giving
the impression that
the already spacious
interior stretches
further into the palace.
148  EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM

Exploring Drottningholm
The Palace of Drottningholm is complemented by the Court
Theatre (Slottsteatern), the world’s oldest theatre still in active
use, the Theatre Museum (Teatermuseum) and the elegant
Chinese Pavilion (Kina Slott). The complex is situated on the
shores of Lake Mälaren, surrounded by Baroque and Rococo
gardens, and lush English-style parkland. In summer the
theatre stages opera and ballet; and the church is used for
High Mass and concerts.
Karl XI’s gallery at Drottningholm, featuring
the victory at Lund, 1667
Drottningholm Palace Area
staircase linking the two floors.
The “bureau” opposite the tiled
stove is also a sofa bed. The
Stockholm Oscar Room was refurbished by
Oscar I (1799–1859) and is
adorned by a tapestry dating
from the 1630s. After the
General’s Room, Karl XI’s Gallery
– which commemorates the
victory at Lund (1667) – and the
Sights Golden Salon, comes the
Queen’s Salon. Just as the
1 Palace
adjoining State Room had
2 Chinese Pavilion
portraits of all the European
0 metres 250 3 Palace Park
monarchs, the portraits in the
0 yards 250 4 Court Theatre and Queen’s Salon were of European
Theatre Museum queens. This floor finishes with
the Upper South Bodyguard
the Swedish army in 1658. Room, an anteroom to the State
The Palace Apartments Queen Hedvig Eleonora (1636– Room and lavishly decorated by
On entering the apartments, 1715) held audiences in the the Carove stucco artists and
the first thing that meets the Ehrenstrahl Salon, named after the ceiling painter Johan Sylvius.
eye is a Baroque corridor with a the artist whose paintings
view that frames part of the dominate the walls. More
gardens, in all their splendour. prominent guests were The Chinese Pavilion
The central part of the palace is received in the State Bedroom. On her 33rd birthday in 1753
dominated by the In Queen Lovisa Ulrika’s Queen Lovisa Ulrika was given a
staircase, crowned by a time this room was Chinese pavilion by her husband,
lantern with ceiling used for sleeping. Her King Adolf Fredrik. It had been
paintings by Meissen porcelain can manufactured in Stockholm and
Ehrenstrahl. There are be seen in the Blue the previous night it was
examples of Baroque Cabinet; the Library has shipped to Drottningholm and
stucco work by her collection of more assembled a few hundred
Giovanni and Carlo Medallion showing than 2,000 books. metres from the palace. It had to
Carove. Marble life and death Behind the Upper be taken down after 10 years
statues of the nine Northern Guards because rot had set in, and was
muses and their protector, Room with a ceiling by Johan replaced by the Chinese Pavilion
Apollo, are placed at the corners Sylvius is a Gustavian drawing
of the balustrades. room, with a bureau by Johan
The Green Salon is reached Niklas Eckstein. In 1777,
from the lower vestibule via the following Gustav III’s
Lower Northern Bodyguard assumption of power, the Blue
Room. This is the beginning of Salon was decorated in the
the main ceremonial suite, Neo-Classical style.
which continues with Karl X’s The Chinese Salon was used
Gallery where paintings as a private bedroom by King
illustrate his major military Adolf Fredrik. It is directly
exploit, the crossing of the ice above the Queen’s State The Chinese Pavilion, an extravaganza
in the Store Bælt (Great Belt) by Bedroom and there is a hidden in blue and gold
 DROTTNINGHOLM  149

(Kina Slott) which is still one (1560–1626) were war

of the major attractions at trophies from Prague in
Drottningholm. The polished- 1648 and from Fredriks-
tile building was designed by borg Castle in Denmark
C F Adelcrantz (1716–96). in 1659.
At this time there was great The avenues of
European interest in all things chestnut trees were
Chinese. In 1733 the newly laid out when the
formed East India Company Chinese Pavilion was
made its first journey to China. completed, as well as
After Lovisa Ulrika’s death in the Rococo-inspired
1782 this interest waned, but it garden area – a cross
was rekindled in the 1840s. The between the formal The magnificent 18th-century stage in the
Chinese Pavilion is a mixture of main garden and the Drottningholm Court Theatre
what was considered 250 years freer composition of
ago to be typical Chinese style the English park. The Ulrika, but Adelcrantz did not
along with artifacts English park has have the same resources as the
from China and natural paths and a architects of the palace itself.
Japan. Efforts have stream with small This simple wooden building
been made to islands, along with with a plaster façade is now the
restore the interior trees and bushes at world’s oldest theatre still
to its original state “natural” irregular preserved in its original
with the help of a intervals. Gustav III is condition. The interior and
1777 inventory. reputed to have fittings are masterpieces of
Four smaller been responsible for simple functionality. The
pavilions belong to its design and also pilasters, for example, are
the building. In the planned several made from gypsum and the
north-eastern buildings. Not all his supports from papier maché.
pavilion the king plans were realized, The scenery, with its wooden
had his lathe and a but he added four hand-driven machinery, is still
carpenter’s bench. statues which he in working order.
Alongside is the had bought during After Gustav III’s death in 1792
Confidencen Tiled stove in a cabinet his travels in Italy. the theatre fell into disuse until
pavilion, where in the Chinese Pavilion The first 300 of a the 1920s, when the machinery
meals were taken if total of 846 lime ropes were replaced, electric
he wished to be left trees were planted in the lighting was installed, and the
undisturbed. The food was avenues flanking the Baroque original wings were refurbished.
prepared in the basement, garden as early as 1684. The scenery is adapted to
the floor opened and the 18th-century plays. It can be
dining table hauled up. The changed in just a few seconds
adjoining Turkish-style “watch The Court Theatre and with the help of up to 30 scene-
tent” was built as a barracks for Theatre Museum shifters. The sound effects are
Gustav III’s dragoons. The designer of the Chinese simple but authentic: a wooden
Pavilion, Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz, box filled with stones creates
was also responsible for the realistic thunder, a wooden
The Palace Park Drottningholm Court Theatre cylinder covered in tent cloth
The palace’s three gardens are (Slottsteatern), which dates produces a howling wind. Every
each of a completely different from 1766. The theatre was summer there are about 30
character but still combine to commissioned by Queen Lovisa performances, mainly opera and
provide a unified whole. The ballet from the 18th century.
symmetrical formal garden The theatre is open daily for
started to take shape in 1640. visitors to the palace.
The garden was designed to A Theatre Museum and shop
stimulate all senses with sights, are housed in Duke Carl’s
sounds and smells. It starts by pavilion, built in the 1780s.
the palace terrace with its The museum focuses on
“embroidery” parterre and 18th-century theatre, with
continues as far as the Hercules decoration sketches, paintings,
statue. The water parterre is scenery models and costumes.
situated on slightly higher A Commedia dell’arte room
ground and is broken up with contains paintings by Pehr
waterfalls and topiaries. The Hilleström and sketches for
sculptures, mainly carved by the Court Theatre stage machinery: the world’s Gustav III’s dramatic productions
Flemish sculptor Adrian de Vries oldest still in use by Louis Jean Desprez.
150  EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM

2 Birka
30 km (19 miles) W of Stockholm.
g May–Sep from Stadshusbron.
Birkamuseet: Tel 08-560 515 40.
Open hours vary, check website.
8 of exhibitions and excavations.
= - 0 ∑ raa.se/birka

The first town in Scandinavia

was called Birka, on the island
of Björkö in Lake Mälaren. It
was founded in the 8th century
by the king of Svea who then
reigned over the central parts
of present-day Sweden. His The 16th-century Gripsholms Slott just outside Mariefred
royal residence was on the
nearby island of Adelsö. About Sigtuna, 15 km (9 miles) to the 3 Mariefred
100 years later a contemporary north, which is now Sweden’s
65 km (40 miles) W of Stockholm.
writer gave the town this oldest town.
Tel 0159–231 60. g summer from
description: “In Birka there are Today Björkö is a flourishing
Stadshusbron. £ from Central-
many rich merchants and an island with gardens and stationen to Läggesta, then bus.
abundance of all types of goods, juniper-covered slopes. Gripsholms Slott: Open 15 May–Sep:
money and valuable items.” But, most importantly, it 10am–4pm daily; Oct & Nov: noon–
It was not a large town. There is a popular excursion desti- 3pm Sat & Sun.
were only about 700 inhabi- nation with a fascinating
tants, but they included museum and continuing Mariefred should ideally
craftsmen, whose work archaeological digs. be approached from the
attracted merchants from During the early 1990s water to get the best view of
distant countries. these excavations the magnificent Gripsholms
The town was provided a lot of Slott in all its splendour. The
planned on simple new information first fortress on this site was
lines. People lived about Birka and built in the 1380s by the Lord
in modest houses, the Vikings. Since High Chancellor, Bo Jonsson
which stood in rows then, work has Grip, who gave the castle its
overlooking the jetties continued around the name. Work on the present
where ships were old fortifications, building, initiated by King
moored. These vessels Birka crucifix revealing much about Gustav Vasa, started in 1537
were used by the king’s the town’s defences and but parts have been rebuilt
warriors, the Vikings, for the life of its inhabitants. The or added – most notably
their marauding expeditions. museum shows how Birka during the time of Gustav III
In 830 a monk named Ansgar looked in its heyday, along in the late 18th century. It was
came to Birka, bringing the with some of the archaeolo- during this period that the
Christian faith to Sweden. gical finds. Visitors can also see National Portrait Gallery was
In the 10th century Birka was freshly dug artifacts while established. It now contains
abandoned in favour of excavations are in progress. more than 4,000 portraits
and covers some 500 years of
artistic endeavour, from the
time of Gustav Vasa to the
present day. It also has a
collection of notable foreign
portraits, which are shown
in a separate section.
Gripsholms Slott’s well-
preserved interiors feature a
wide collection of furniture,
art and handicrafts. There are
about 60 rooms. Highlights
include Gustav III’s late
18th-century theatre and
the White Salon which is
also from the same era.
The town of Mariefred, in the
shadow of the castle, derives its
Iron Age burial ground at Birka on the island of Björkö in Lake Mälaren name from a late 15th-century
 EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM  151

monastery, the Younger (see p39) and was

Monasterium Pacis designed a decade before he
Mariae. It received started on Stockholm’s Royal
its charter as a Palace. The roof is that of a
town in 1605, and traditional Swedish manor house
an inn has stood of the time, but otherwise the
on the site of the design is influenced by Tessin’s
monastery since studies, mainly in Italy and
the early 17th France. The result is an Italianate
century. The palace in a rural Swedish setting,
elegantly restored which Carl Gyllenstierna gave to
and rebuilt his wife Anna Soop as a wedding
restaurant is an gift in 1706. Since then Steninge
attraction in itself. has had several owners, the best
Visitors to known of whom was Count Axel
Mariefred can von Fersen, reputed to have
stroll through the been the lover of the French
town and admire Duke Karl’s bedchamber, Gripsholms Slott Queen Marie Antoinette (1755–
the 17th-century 93). The park, planned by the
church and the 18th-century classic “steamboat beef” is on landscape architect Johan
Rådhus (law courts’ building), offer along the way. For the Hårleman, has a monument of
which also houses the local return journey, a vintage steam Count von Fersen.
Tourist Information Office. railway runs from Mariefred to In 1999 the estate was
There are a number of specialist Läggesta (a 40-minute journey) transformed into a cultural
shops, galleries and an excellent from where it is possible to centre. The biggest attraction is
antiques shop. catch an express train back to the elegant Baroque palace. The
The vintage railway attracts Stockholm (30 minutes). staircase has similarities to its
visitors of all ages. Those counterpart at the Royal Palace
interested in art should head (see p50) and elsewhere there are
for Grafikens Hus (House of 4 Steninge Slott details, which can also be seen in
Graphics) on a hill leading Tessinska Palatset (see p54). The
40 km (25 miles) N of Stockholm.
up to the former royal farm, oval hall is a masterpiece of
Tel 08-592 595 00. g summer from
where stables and haylofts Stadshusbron to Rosersberg and
Swedish Baroque, decorated by
have been converted into connecting bus. Slottsgalleria: Open the Italian stucco artist Giuseppe
an exhibition area. 11am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Marchi. It regained its original
The excursion can be made Sat & Sun. Palace: Open 11am–2pm splendour as part of restoration
into a varied round trip. From Sat, 11am–3pm Sun; Jun–Aug: 11am– work in the early 20th century,
Stockholm to Mariefred one 4pm daily. 8 call for tour information. planned by the architect
can travel on Sweden’s oldest = - ∑ steningeslott.com G Clason. At the same time Julius
steamboat service, dating from Kronberg contributed paintings
1832. The steamboat Mariefred, South-east of Sigtuna, Sweden’s on the door lintels and ceilings.
which has operated on the oldest town, and only 10 A 19th-century stone barn
route since 1903, travels at 6–7 minutes from Arlanda Airport is houses the Slottsgalleria
knots and the journey takes Steninge Slott, one of the gems with glassworks, pottery,
about three and a half hours. of Lake Mälaren. The palace ranks candle-making, and a shop
Beautiful scenery and a lunch of among the finest works of Tessin and restaurant.

Steninge Palace, one of the most perfect examples of late 17th-century manor house design
152  EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM

the third that explores the

history of Vodka in Sweden
and its growing popularity.
Various handicrafts are
practised on the island,
including metalwork, weaving,
textile printing, wood-carving,
pottery and glassmaking. There
is also an art gallery and an
outdoor theatre that, during the
summer months, hosts popular
theatre weeks for children.
The other three islands are
especially rich with bird-life, and
one of them, Libertas, has
Millesgården, home of the sculptor Carl Milles in the early 20th century Sweden’s last remaining gas-
powered lighthouse.
5 Millesgården 6 Fjäderholmarna
Herserudsvägen 30, Lidingö. 6 km (4 miles) E of Stockholm.
 Subway to Ropsten, then bus @ 53. g May–Sep from Nybrokajen
to Torsviks Torg, then follow the signs and Slussen.
to Millesgården. Tel 08-446 75 90.
Open May–Sep: 11am–5pm daily; With the inclusion of the
Oct–Apr: noon–5pm Tue–Sun. Fjäderholmarna islands in the
8 by appointment. 7 & - = Royal National City Park (see
∑ millesgarden.se p123) the city’s “green lung” has
acquired a small part of the
Carl Milles (1875–1955) was one archipelago. The main island, Vaxholm Fortress, strategically sited on the
of the 20th century’s greatest Stora Fjäderholmen, is only a approach to Vaxholm
Swedish sculptors and the best 25-minute boat journey from
known internationally. From Nybrokajen or Slussen. 7 Vaxholm
1931 he lived for 20 years in the The island already boasted 25 km (16 miles) NE of Stockholm.
USA, where he became a prolific an inn in the 17th century, @ 670. g from Strömkajen and
monumental sculptor with conveniently sited for the Nybrokajen. Vaxholm Fortress
works such as the Meeting of the archipelago islanders on their and Vaxholm Fortress Museum:
Waters fountain in St Louis and way to and from the city to Tel 08-541 718 90. Open Jun: 12:15pm–
the Resurrection fountain in the sell their wares. The inn was 4pm daily; Jul–Aug: 12:15pm–5pm
National Memorial Park outside closed during World War II, daily. &
Washington DC. In Stockholm when the area was taken over
visitors can see 15 of his public by the military, and landing The archipelago’s main
works, including the Orpheus was forbidden. community, Vaxholm, has been
fountain in front of Access to the public was a strategic point for shipping
Konserthuset (see p70). restored in the mid-1980s, since the 19th century. It is
In 1906 Milles bought land and the main island now offers easily reached by boat from
on the island of Lidingö, on an attractive harbour, three Stockholm on a delightful
which he built a house, restaurants and an ice-cream one-hour journey through
completed in 1908. He lived parlour as well as a tour of the the inner archipelago.
here with his wife until 1931, country’s first whisky distillery, Vaxholm has been inhabited
and also after his return from Mackmyra Distillery. There are since the 16th century. In 1548
the USA. In 1936 he and his also three museums, two of Gustav Vasa ordered that the
wife donated the property to which are devoted to traditional nearby island of Vaxholmen
the Swedish people. and recreational boating and should be fortified. Some 300
Millesgården years later a new fortress was
covers 18,000 sq m built here, but it soon lost its
(194,000 sq ft) in a military importance and was
series of terraces used as a civil prison. Today the
and includes Milles’ imposing citadel houses an
studios with originals interesting military museum.
and replicas of his Two of Stockholm’s best-
work. It has a magni- known architects have left
ficent garden – a their mark on Vaxholm town.
real work of art in The 100-year-old law-courts’
itself – and a fine The Fjäderholmarna islands – a popular summer excursion building was given its present
view over the water. just 25 minutes by boat from the city appearance in 1925 by Cyrillus
 EXCURSIONS FROM STOCKHOLM  153

Johansson. On the headland

nearest to the harbour is a
rather stately hotel designed
in 1899 by Erik Lallerstedt,
and traces of its Jugendstil
ornamentation can still be seen.
The wooden buildings
around the square and along
Hamngatan with their souvenir
shops provide a pleasant stroll,
and the harbour is always busy.

8 Grinda
30 km (19 miles) E of Stockholm.
Sandhamn, a yachting centre in Stockholm’s outer archipelago
Tel 08-542 494 91. @ 670 from
Stockholm Östra station to Vaxholm, 0 Sandhamn heritage building. A customs
then boat. g from Strömkajen and 50 km (31 miles) E of Stockholm.
inspector who worked here,
Nybrokajen. 0 (summer only). S Tel 08-570 470 00. @ 433, 434 Elias Sehlstedt (1808–74), made
from Slussen to Stavsnäs, then boat. his name as a poet and artist.
Grinda is a leafy island, typical g from Strömkajen and Nybrokajen. Sandhamn has shops,
of the inner archipelago. It has =0 handicraft centres, and a
some excellent beaches and swimming pool. Guided tours
rocks for swimming, as well as Over the past 200 years Sand- can be arranged. Camping is
good fishing. Boats and bicycles hamn, on Sandön, has been a not permitted, but hotel, bed-
can be hired, making it an ideal meeting point for sailors, par- and-breakfast and chalet
place to visit while exploring ticularly yachting enthusiasts. accommodation is available.
the archipelago. It takes about The Royal Swedish Yacht Club
one and a half hours by boat has been based at Seglarrest-
from the city. aurangen (Sailors’ Restaurant) q Utö
The architect Ernst Sten- for more than 100 years. Every 50 km (31 miles) SE of Stockholm.
hammar (1859–1927), who year the world’s yachting elite Tel 08-501 574 10. g in summer,
designed the Grand Hôtel (see flock to Sandhamn to take part from Strömkajen. = 0
p81), built a large Jugendstil villa in the Round Gotland Race. ∑ utoturistbyra.se
here, which is now a restaurant Once a pilot station, Sand-
and pub and has guest rooms. hamn is a charming village No other island in the
There are chalets for rental, a with narrow alleys and houses archipelago has as rich a history
campsite and a youth hostel adorned with decorative carvings. as Utö, which was inhabited
in a former military barracks. There are now about 100 perma- before the Viking era. In the
nent residents. The Customs 12th century the islanders
House, built in 1752, is a listed started to mine iron ore, and
9 Finnhamn this activity continued until
40 km (25 miles) NE of Stockholm.
1879. Their story is told in the
Tel 08-542 462 12. g from Mining Museum adjoining the
Strömkajen and Nybrokajen. = 0 hotel. Today’s holiday homes
along Lurgatan were built as
Finnish ships used to moor at miners’ cottages in the 18th
Finnhamn on their way to and century. A windmill, built in
from Stockholm. This attractive 1791, provides an unrivalled
group of islands lies two and a view of the island.
half hours by boat from the city Utö is one of the best seaside
at the point where the softer resorts in the Stockholm area,
scenery of the inner archipelago and is ideal for a weekend or
gives way to the harsher full-day excursion. Its facilities
landscape of the outer islands. include a variety of restaurants.
As on Grinda, the main island The hotel’s restaurant is sited in
has a wooden villa designed the old mine offices.
by Ernst Stenhammar (1912). Hotel, youth hostel, camping,
Today it is the largest youth chalet and bed-and-breakfast
hostel in the archipelago. accommodation are all
There is a restaurant, chalets available. Bicycles, rowing boats
for rental and a campsite. and canoes can be hired, and
Smaller islands nearby are Smooth rock formations at Utö in the there are also regular fishing
accessible by rowing boat. southern archipelago trips and archipelago safaris.
 TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS

Where to Stay 156–161

Where to Eat and Drink 162–173
Entertainment in
Stockholm 174–179
Outdoor Activities 180–181
Shopping in Stockholm 182–187
156  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY
Stockholm’s hotel scene revolves around Stockholm’s hotels are not usually built in the
Blasieholmen, where the Grand Hôtel offers same grandiose style as their counterparts in
accommodation that is just as princely as southern Europe, but they do offer high levels
the Royal Palace, on the opposite side of of comfort and service and often have
Norrström. Only a short distance away is af magnificent views or locations. The listings
Chapman, a ship that is home to one of the on pages 158–61 cover a wide range of
world’s most beautiful youth hostels. accommodation options.

How to Book a high-standard room-and-

You can easily make a reserv- breakfast hotel. It also has a
ation at the Stockholm Visitor property near Arlanda and
Centre. Staff can also offer three conference hotels in
tips and advice about lodging the “Quality” category.
options for all tastes and The environmentally
budgets. Hotel reservations conscious Scandinavian
can also be made directly with chain First Hotels has three
the hotel, either over the categories: First Hotel, First
telephone or, in most cases, Express and First Resort. There
online. Web addresses for the are three First Hotels in the city
larger hotel chains’ reservation centre and three First Express
centres are listed opposite. properties outside the city.
Elite Hotels has six classic
hotels located throughout
Hotel Chains Stockholm, each with its own
Exterior of the imposing and elegant Several international and unique style. Three of the
Diplomat hotel (see p159) national chains have hotels in hotels are within a 15-minute
Stockholm. Scandic Hotels, walk of the city centre.
Choosing a Hotel with over 230 establishments, is The Collector’s Hotels is
Although most of Stockholm’s the leading Scandinavian chain, a group of three small and
hotels are mid-range to known for its environmentally exclusive hotels located in
expensive, the city also has friendly policies. It has eight Gamla Stan – Victory, Lord
perfectly acceptable budget hotels in the city and six Nelson and Lady Hamilton
accommodation. The cheapest outside, including two on (see p159) – all of which have
alternative is offered by the the way to Arlanda Airport. artistic and maritime decor.
dozen or so youth hostels, most Radisson Blu has three
of which have high standards. large, luxurious hotels in
Other value-for-money options central Stockholm and Prices and Payment
include the many bed-and- two at Arlanda Airport. Prices in the hotel listings
breakfast (B&B) establishments. Choice Hotels Scandinavia has are for a standard double
Stockholm has become one two hotels in Stockholm under room, including service
of the world’s most popular the “Comfort” banner, indicating charges and taxes. All hotels
cities for conferences, so offer rooms at much reduced
occupancy at the city’s hotels rates at weekends throughout
is high – around 80 per the year and daily in the
cent – between May and summer. For the cheaper
November, but much lower hotels, this involves a price
in July. Most of the locals reduction of 100–300 kr per
head out to the countryside night; for medium-priced
to soak in the summer sun hotels about 500 kr; and for
during this period. Visitors deluxe hotels up to 1,000 kr.
are strongly advised to book Nearly all hotels accept
hotel accommodation well major credit cards; however,
in advance. American Express is less
It is best to avoid the peak commonly accepted in
season for trade fairs and smaller establishments.
events such as the Stockholm Larger hotels usually help
Marathon in June. The in changing foreign currency,
Stockholm Visitor Centre but the cheapest way of
website is useful for finding out Smart seating area at the ultra-chic Scandic changing money is to use a
when the busiest periods are. Malmen hotel (see p161) bureau de change (see p194).
Menu scribbled on a blackboard outside a café in Stockholm
 W H E R E TO S TAY  157

hotels offering all kinds of

opulence; and modern boutique
hotels. The places highlighted as
DK Choice have been chosen in
recognition of an exceptional
feature – a stunning location,
notable history, inviting
atmosphere or outstanding
value. Most of these are
extremely popular, so be sure to
make reservations well in
advance of your visit.

DIRECTORY
Stately decor of the Bernadotte suite, Grand Hôtel (see p160) Central Booking
Youth Hostels hostels do not offer Internet
Stockholm Visitor
Centre
There are more than 35 youth booking, and some hostels Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg 3,
hostels in Stockholm, the are only open in the summer. 111 57 Stockholm.
four largest of which are Map 2 C4.
affiliated to the Swedish Tel 08-508 285 08.
Touring Club (STF/IYHF). Bed & Breakfast
Visit Stockholm
Apart from the city’s flagship B&B accommodation is widely ∑ visitstockholm.com
floating hostel, af Chapman available in central Stockholm
(see p159), there are two more and the suburbs, as well as the Hotel Chains
moored right in the city centre: archipelago. There is usually a
MS Rygerfjord and Den Röda choice between a single room, Choice Hotels
Båten at Södermälarstrand. double room and a whole Scandinavia
Tel 08-691 35 00.
These have about 100 beds apartment. Breakfast is normally ∑ choicehotels.se
each, as well as fully licensed included in the price – apart
restaurants and superb views. from apartments, where self- The Collector’s
The standard of Stockholm’s catering is the rule; bed linen Hotels
youth hostels is generally high. and hand towels are always Tel 08-506 400 01.
∑ thecollectorshotels.se
Prices are around 300 kr per included. B&B prices range from
night in a double room, with a 400 kr to 600 kr per person per Elite Hotels
discount of about 50 kr for STF night. A double room costs Tel 0771-788 789.
members, but they come down 500–750 kr, while an apartment, ∑ elite.se
to about 150 kr – sometimes which often has to be rented for First Hotels
even less – in a larger room at least four or five days, costs Tel 08-442 84 00.
or dormitory. Prices usually from around 700 kr per night. ∑ firsthotels.com
exclude breakfast and bed- Most B&Bs can be booked Radisson Blu
linen hire. in advance through a number Tel 020-238 238.
Visit Stockholm can help of agencies, such as Stockholm ∑ radissonblu.com
to book accommodation Guesthouse and Bed & Scandic Hotels
at most youth hostels at its Breakfast Sweden; you can Tel 08-517 517 00.
offices. Be aware that some find the full list on the Visit ∑ scandichotels.com
Stockholm website. Most
B&Bs offer online booking Youth Hostels
services for guests.
Swedish Touring Club
(STF/IYHF)
Recommended Hotels Tel 08-463 21 00.
∑ svenskaturistforeningen.se
The lodging options featured in
this guide have been selected Bed & Breakfast
across a wide price range for
Bed & Breakfast
their excellent facilities and good Sweden
location. All are listed by type, ∑ bedandbreakfast.com/
and then grouped by area, then sweden
by price. Choose from budget
Stockholm Guesthouse
hotels and hostels, offering basic ∑ stockholmguesthouse.com
accommodation; places with
Cozy cabin at the floating youth hostel, striking design features; historic
af Chapman (see p159) centuries-old buildings; luxury
158  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Where to Stay
Wellingtons Gästvåning  Price Guide
Budget Skeppargatan 27, 114 52 Prices are for a standard double room per
Tel 08-663 50 70 Map 3 F2 night in high season, inclusive of all taxes.
Gamla Stan ∑ wellington.se Breakfast is not included unless specified.
 under 1,000 Kr
Archipelago Hostel Gamla Stan  A charming hotel in an old  1,000–2,500 Kr
Stora Nygatan 38, 111 27 school building. Rooms are  over 2,500 Kr
Tel 08-22 92 40 Map 4 B3 spacious. Free Wi-Fi.
∑ archipelagohostel.se
Located in the heart of Old Town, Södermalm
with private rooms, fully equipped Kungsholmen and
kitchens and shared bathrooms. Vasastan DK Choice
Castanea Hostel  2Kronor Hostel Vasastan  Mosebacke Hostel 

Kindstugatan 1, 111 31 Surbrunnsgatan 44, 113 48 Högbergsgatan 26, 116 20

Tel 08-22 35 51 Map 4 C3 Tel 08-22 92 30 Map 2 C2 Tel 08-641 64 60 Map 8 C3
∑ castaneahostel.com ∑ 2kronor.se ∑ mosebackehostel.se
A well-located modern hostel Clean rooms and dorms, but no This modern hostel offers clean
with spacious rooms. Free Wi-Fi. private showers. Big shared single, double and triple rooms
kitchen and common room. with shared facilities; choose
Hotel Gamla Stan  the “VIP room” for extra space,
Skeppsbron 22, 111 30 City Backpackers  private toilet and shower.
Tel 08-411 95 45 Map 4 C3 Upplandsgatan 2, 111 23 Terrific value for money.
∑ hotelgamlastan.se Tel 08-20 69 20 Map 2 A1
Decent waterfront hostel with ∑ citybackpackers.org
dorms and private rooms, as well Hostel with dorms, private rooms Tre Små Rum 
as two fully equipped kitchens. and family rooms, sauna and Högbergsgatan 81, 118 54
guest kitchen. Tours offered. Tel 08-641 23 71 Map 8 C3
Old Town Hostel  ∑ tresmarum.se
Stora Nygatan 22, 111 10 Hansson  Comfortable hotel with
Tel 08-20 77 17 Map 4 B3 Surbrunnsgatan 38, 113 48 a homely atmosphere.
∑ oldtownhostel-stockholm.com Tel 08-15 04 20 Map 2 C2 Excellent breakfast included.
Four- and six-bed dormitories. ∑ hotelhansson.se
Fabulous decor, as well as a big This hotel boasts rooms with
kitchen and dining area. original wooden floors and period Further Afield
furniture. Great on-site restaurant. Attaché 

Old Town Lodge  Cedergrensvägen 16, 126 36

Baggensgatan 25, 111 31 Hotel Micro  Hägersten
Tel 08-20 44 55 Map 4 C3 Tegnérlunden 8, 113 59 Tel 08-18 08 85
∑ oldtownlodge.se Tel 08-545 455 69 Map 2 B3 ∑ hotelattache.se
Rooms are clean but tiny; not all ∑ hotelmicro.se A no-frills hotel with bright, airy
have windows. Bathrooms are Small, newly decorated rooms in and well-decorated rooms. Warm
shared but immaculately kept. marine colours. Shared bathrooms and friendly staff.
are located on the same floor.
City Wasa Park 

Crystal Plaza  Sankt Eriksplan 1, 113 20 Design

Birger Jarlsgatan 35, 111 45 Tel 08-545 453 00 Map 1 C1
Tel 08-406 88 00 Map 2 C2 ∑ wasaparkhotel.se Gamla Stan
∑ crystalplazahotel.se Bargain accommodation. Rooms Mälardrottningen Yacht Hotel 
Simple rooms, each individually are large and comfortable, some Riddarholmskajen, 111 28
decorated, in a historic building. with private bathrooms. Tel 08-120 902 00 Map 4 A2
Breakfast included. ∑ malardrottningen.se
Boat-based hotel with spacious
Queen’s  cabins and a great breakfast.
Drottninggatan 71a, 113 60
Tel 08-24 94 60 Map 4 A1
∑ queenshotel.se City
Rooms are spacious with modern Micro 
conveniences. Relaxed Tegnerlunden 8, 113 59
atmosphere, central location. Tel 08-545 455 69 Map 2 B3
∑ hotelmicro.se
Compact but stylish cabin-like
Östermalm and Gärdet rooms. No windows.
Stureparken 

Sturegatan 58, 114 36 Stockholm Inn 

Tel 08-662 72 30 Map 3 E3 Drottninggatan 67, 111 36

∑ stureparkens.nu Tel 08-411 03 03 Map 4 A1
Small hotel with elegantly ∑ stockholminn.se
furnished rooms and apartments. Logo of the Tre Små Rum hotel Central hostel with modern
Excellent breakfast. in Södermalm rooms, all with en-suite showers.
 W H E R E TO S TAY  159

Freys  Diplomat 

Bryggargatan 12, 101 31 Strandvägen 7C, 114 56

Tel 08-506 213 00 Map 2 C4 Tel 08-459 68 00 Map 3 E4
∑ freyshotels.com ∑ diplomathotel.com
Stylish boutique hotel with Lovely waterfront period property
Swedish design throughout. with bright, luxurious rooms.
Central location. Enjoy drinks on the terrace.

Berns Hotel  Mornington 

Näckströmsgatan 8, 111 47 Nybrogatan 53, 114 40
Tel 08-566 322 00 Map 3 D4 Tel 08-507 330 00 Map 3 E2
∑ berns.se ∑ mornington.se
Contemporary rooms in this Individually designed rooms
hotel popular with celebrities. with wooden flooring, big beds
Restaurant and club on site. and comfortable sofas.

Blasieholmen and
Skeppsholmen Kungsholmen and
Vasastan
The majestic hostel af Chapman, on a boat
M/S Monika  moored across from the Royal Palace
DK Choice Kungsholms strand 133, 112 33
af Chapman and Tel 08-120 921 00 Map 1 B1
Skeppsholmen  ∑ msmonika.se Further Afield
Flaggmansvägen 8, 111 49 Boat-based hotel with charming Elite Hotel Marina Tower 

Tel 08-463 22 66 Map 5 D3 rooms that preserve many of the Saltsjöqvarns kaj 25, 131 71 Nacka
∑ stfchapman.com ship’s original features. Tel 08-555 702 00
One of the most beautiful ∑ elite.se
youth hostels anywhere in the A red-brick gem right on the
world, offering beds on board a Södermalm water with a wide range of
tall ship permanently moored Columbus Loft  spacious rooms. Home to one
across from the Royal Palace. It Tjärhovsgatan 11, 116 21 of Stockholm’s best spas.
fills up quickly, so reserve well Tel 08-503 112 00 Map 9 E3
in advance. Breakfast included. ∑ columbusloft.se
The loft at the Columbus hotel
offers small but stylishly Historic
furnished rooms.
Djurgården Gamla Stan
Den Röda Båten  First Hotel Reisen 

Söder Mälarstrand, Kajplats 10 Skeppsbron 12, 111 30

DK Choice Tel 08-644 43 85 Map 4 A4 Tel 08-22 32 60 Map 4 C3
Scandic Hasselbacken  ∑ theredboat.com ∑ firsthotels.com
Hazeliusbacken 20, 100 55 A hotel and hostel spread over Charming waterfront hotel in an
Tel 08-517 343 00 Map 6 A3 two colourful ships. Only the 18th-century building. Excellent
∑ scandichotels.com private rooms have their own service and renowned on-site
Currently the only hotel on en-suite bathrooms. restaurant. Free Wi-Fi.
Djurgården, this beautifully
restored mansion is surrounded Långholmen Hotel  Lady Hamilton 
by lush woodland. It features Långholmsmuren 20, 117 33 Storkyrkobrinken 5, 111 28
contemporary Swedish design Tel 08-720 85 00 Map 1 B5 Tel 08-506 401 00 Map 4 B3
with elegant historic and ∑ langholmen.com ∑ thecollectorshotels.se
classical touches. Superb Unique island accommodation. Classy hotel with gorgeous
in-house dining served Sleep in a former cell at this rooms and excellent service.
on the terrace in summer. converted prison. A unique Ghost Walk is available
for guests.
Rygerfjord Hotel and Hostel 
Söder Mälarstrand, Lord Nelson 
Östermalm and Gärdet Kajplats 12–14, 118 25 Västerlånggatan 22, 111 29
STF Gärdet Hotel and Hostel  Tel 08-84 08 30 Map 4 A4 Tel 08-506 401 20 Map 4 B3
Sandhamnsgatan 59, 115 28 ∑ rygerfjord.se ∑ thecollectorshotels.se
Tel 08-463 22 99 Beautifully restored ship with The small rooms in this 17th-
∑ svenskaturistforeningen.se good hotel and hostel century building are excellent
Good-value singles, doubles and accommodation. Shared value for money.
twins with fresh decor, located bathrooms for hostel guests.
within the city national park. Scandic Gamla Stan 

Hellstens Malmgård  Lilla Nygatan 25, 111 28

Clarion Wellington  Brännkyrkagatan 110, 117 26 Tel 08-723 72 50 Map 4 B3
Storgatan 6, 114 51 Tel 08-465 058 00 Map 4 A5 ∑ scandichotels.se
Tel 08-667 09 10 Map 3 F3 ∑ hellstensmalmgard.se Stylishly furnished hotel in a 17th-
∑ wellington.se In an elegant mansion, this hotel century building. Cosy rooms,
Vibrant rooms with huge has a wide range of rooms, some graceful interiors and all modern
windows and terrific views. of which have original porcelain amenities. Relax on the roof
Good service. heating stoves from 1770. terrace in the summer.
For more information on types of hotels see p157
160  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Sheraton Stockholm 

DK Choice DK Choice Tegelbacken 6, 101 23
Sven Vintappare  Anno 1647  Tel 08-412 34 00 Map 4 A2
Sven Vintappares Gränd 3, 111 27 Mariagränd 3, 116 46 ∑ sheratonstockholm.com
Tel 08-22 41 40 Map 4 B3 Tel 08-442 16 80 Map 4 B5 Oustanding hotel with elegantly
∑ hotelsvenvintappare.se ∑ anno1647.se decorated rooms and sweeping
The centuries-old façade of An ultra-modern hotel located views. Excellent on-site dining.
this historic Gamla Stan house in a building dating from 1647.
masks a bright, modern interior. The rooms are comfortable and
The wooden floors are a nod well appointed. Bathrooms, in Blasieholmen and
to the past, while a number particular, are immaculate. Skeppsholmen
of original features such as Excellent Swedish restaurant
fireplaces and ceramic heaters and a stylish bar. Lydmar 
have been incorporated into Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2, 103 24
the modern suites. Tel 08-22 31 60 Map 4 C2
Columbus  ∑ lydmar.com
Tjärhovsgatan 11, 116 21 An elegant hotel offering under-
Tel 08-503 112 00 Map 9 E3 stated luxury and cutting-edge
City ∑ columbus.se design. Gorgeous bathrooms.
Scandic Kungsgatan  Beautiful 1780s building with
Kungsgatan 47, 111 56 rooms that feature high ceilings Radisson Blu Strand 

Tel 08-723 72 20 Map 2 B4 and wooden beams. Nybrokajen 9, 103 27

∑ scandichotels.com Tel 08-506 640 00 Map 5 D1
Basic rooms and luxury suites ∑ radissonblu.com
complete with terrific views in Further Afield Expect the very best at this hotel.
this landmark building. Näsby Slott  Top-floor sauna with superb views
Djursholmsvägen 30, 183 52 Täby over the rooftops of Stockholm.
Tel 08-544 981 00
Blasieholmen and ∑ nasbyslott.se
A lakeside manor house with a Östermalm and Gärdet
Skeppsholmen
delightful mix of classical and
Grand Hôtel Stockholm  modern decor throughout.
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, 111 48 DK Choice
Tel 08-679 35 00 Map 4 C2 Åkeshofs Slott  Villa Källhagan 
∑ grandhotel.se Åkeshovs Gårdsvägen, 168 39 Brooma Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 10, 115 27
Home to high-fliers since 1874, Tel 08-445 80 77 Tel 08-665 03 00 Map 6 B2
this luxurious hotel features an ∑ akeshofsslott.se ∑ kallhagen.se
amazing underground spa. Luxury accommodation in a This modern yet elegant hotel
17th-century castle with stylish has rooms that are enormous
rooms and excellent service. and luxuriously furnished. All of
Östermalm and Gärdet the stunning bathrooms have a
Esplanade  skylight. Some rooms even offer
Strandvägen 7a, 114 56 direct access to the lush gardens.
Tel 08-663 07 40 Map 3 E4 Luxury The on-site restaurant is great.
∑ hotelesplanade.se
Cosy interiors behind a majestic City
Art Nouveau façade. The Nobis 
Esplanade offers old-fashioned Norrmalmstorg 2–4, 111 86 Södermalm
attention to detail in every aspect. Tel 08-614 10 00 Map 3 D4 Hilton Stockholm Slussen 
∑ nobishotel.se Guldgränd 8, 104 65
Elegant decor, marble bathrooms Tel 08-517 353 11 Map 4 B5
Kungsholmen and and some four-poster beds. ∑ www3.hilton.com
Vasastan Seafront hotel offering typically
luxurious Hilton accommodation.
Elite Palace Hotel  Good spa services available.
Sankt Eriksgatan 115, 113 43
Tel 08-566 217 00 Map 1 C1
∑ elite.se Further Afield
Large and comfortable hotel
with three- and four-bed rooms;
great for families. Excellent gym DK Choice
and spa facilities, too. Villa Pauli 

Strandvägen 19, 182 60

Djursholm
Södermalm Tel 08-446 57 80 Map 3 E4
Hornsgatan  ∑ villapauli.com
Hornsgatan 66B, 118 21 Deluxe waterfront property in
Tel 08-658 29 01 Map 4 A5 a secluded setting right on the
∑ hotelhornsgatan.se Baltic Sea. Rooms are classically
Big, bright rooms at this lovely furnished with modern touches.
hotel in a converted residential Set in large grounds are a host
building dating from 1905. Great Colourful room with wooden flooring at of sports facilities for the guests.
buffet breakfast. Friendly service. the Hornsgatan hotel
Key to Price Guide see p158
 W H E R E TO S TAY  161

Scandic Park 

Karlavägen 43, 102 46

Tel 08-51 73 48 00 Map 2 C2
∑ scandichotels.com
Enjoy stunning views from
most of the spacious, gracefully
decorated rooms here. Excellent
value for money.

Kungsholmen and
Vasastan

Sleek and classy room decor at the Hilton Stockholm Slussen, Södermalm DK Choice
Courtyard by Marriott 
Tegnérlunden  Rålambshovsleden 50, 112 19
Modern Tegnérlunden 8, 113 59 Tel 08-441 31 00 Map 1 B3
Tel 08-54 54 55 50 Map 2 B3 ∑ marriott.co.uk
City ∑ hoteltegnerlunden.se The best place to enjoy five-
Clarion Hotel Sign  Enjoy minimalist yet extremely star comfort at half the price
Östra Järnvägsgatan 35, 111 20 elegant rooms, which come with of similar hotels in the city
Tel 08-676 98 00 Map 2 B4 extras such as free Wi-Fi and a centre. The stylish rooms and
∑ clarionsign.com great breakfast. bathrooms are spacious. Great
A superbly furnished hotel in the breakfast and free Wi-Fi.
heart of the city. Big rooms with Radisson Blu Waterfront 
huge bathrooms. Good spa. Nils Ericsons Plan 4, 111 64
Tel 08-50 50 60 00 Map 2 C5 First Hotel Norrtull 

Comfort Hotel Stockholm  ∑ radissonblu.com Sankt Eriksgatan 119, 113 43

Kungsbron 1, 111 22 Plush, extremely spacious rooms Tel 08-30 03 50 Map 1 C1
Tel 08-56 62 22 00 Map 2 B4 and exceptional service. Excellent ∑ hotelnorrtull.se
∑ nordicchoicehotels.se restaurant and bar. A converted listed building
A business hotel close to the with elegant rooms, some
train station. Friendly service. of which boast exposed
Blasieholmen and original brickwork.
Radisson Blu Royal Viking  Skeppsholmen
Vasagatan 1, 101 24
Tel 08-506 540 00 Map 2 B4 Skeppsholmen  Södermalm
∑ radissonblu.com Gröna gången 1, 111 86 Scandic Malmen 

Luxurious Swedish design hotel Tel 08-407 23 00 Map 5 E3 Götgatan 51, 102 66
aimed at business travellers. ∑ hotelskeppsholmen.com Tel 08-51 73 47 00 Map 4 B5
Colourful decor and huge rooms. An island restreat; stylish ∑ scandichotels.com
rooms with original wooden Innovatively designed hotel
floors and large windows. with neat and cosy rooms.
DK Choice Friendly service and free Wi-Fi.
Riddargatan 

Riddargatan 14, 114 35 Further Afield

Tel 08-55 57 30 00 Map 3 E4 Östermalm and Gärdet Park Inn by Radisson
∑ profilhotels.se Best Western Karlaplan  Solna 

One of Stockholm’s finest Skeppargatan 82, 114 59 Hotellgatan 11, 171 25 Solna
business hotels, Riddargatan Tel 08-31 32 20 Map 3 F2 Tel 08-470 91 00
has spacious, striking rooms ∑ hotelkarlaplan.se ∑ parkinn.com
with contemporary design. It is Classic red-brick building with well- Great option for business
the ideal base for clubbers and furnished rooms. Some budget people, with clean rooms
theatre-goers, and its location is single rooms do not have windows. and a sauna. Complimentary
hard to beat. Great service. breakfast buffet.
Clarion Tapto 

Jungfrugatan 57, 115 31 Quality Hotel Globe 

Scandic Anglais  Tel 08-664 50 00 Map 3 E3 Arenaslingan 7, 121 26
Humlegårdsgatan 23, 102 44 ∑ clarionhotel.com Johanneshov
Tel 08-51 73 40 00 Map 3 D3 Striking hotel featuring big, Tel 08-686 63 00
∑ scandichotels.com bright rooms with wooden ∑ nordicchoicehotels.se
A vibrant hotel with spacious floors. Some have balconies Spacious, bright and comfortable
rooms and lovely wooden floors. overlooking the courtyard. rooms near the trade fair centre.
The breakfast buffet is excellent.
Scandic Sergel Plaza  Scandic Ariadne 

Brunkebergstorg 9, 103 27 Södra Kajen 37, 115 74 Scandic Bromma 

Tel 08-51 72 63 00 Map 4 A1 Tel 08-51 73 86 00 Brommaplan, 168 76 Bromma

∑ scandichotels.com ∑ scandichotels.com Tel 08-51 73 41 00
Small, colourful rooms with Bright, airy rooms and a ∑ scandichotels.com
large desks. Most have views fantastic Sky Bar on the A quiet retreat offering basic
over the city. There is also a gym 17th floor of this hotel. rooms. Nice courtyard and patio.
and restaurant. Exceptional service. Gym and kids’ playroom on site.
For more information on types of hotels see p157
162  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Stockholm is one of Europe’s liveliest and combined with Swedish food to create
most varied cities for eating out. Several innovative and delicious cuisine. Lunchtime
of the country’s restaurants have been is the best time to sample traditional
awarded Michelin stars, and Swedish Swedish dishes, and they tend to represent
cuisine is well regarded internationally. excellent value for money. If you want to
Many of the best restaurants have been eat inexpensively in the evening, there are
opened by a number of top Swedish chefs plenty of fast-food outlets, pubs, Chinese
and they are relatively small and informal. restaurants, pizzerias, hotdog stands and
International influences are often kebab houses all over the city.

Where to Eat have a rather sparse decor and best can be found at the most
There is a great variety of extremely high noise levels. If popular restaurants (see pp166–
restaurants all over the capital, you are looking for somewhere 71). Smoking is banned in all
not just in the city centre. quieter, it is best to choose an public bars and restaurants.
Cafés can also be found in established restaurant. There
large department stores and are many restaurants serving
shopping malls, as well as at cuisine from abroad, or “cross- Opening Times
most museums. Hot meals over” or fusion cooking, Most restaurants open for
can be had on many of the which is Swedish food lunch at 11:30am and
archipelago ferries, and several with foreign close at around
of the boats offering sightseeing influences, 10pm. Dinner is
tours also include dinner resulting in served from 6pm
(see p204). modern Swedish or even earlier. A
Sandwiches with a variety cuisine. large number of
of fillings can be bought at If you are restaurants are
cafés and cake shops, which looking for closed on Sundays or
often serve inexpensive hot somewhere Mondays, as well as
dishes at lunchtime. cheap to eat, Inn sign, Gamla Stan during the winter.
Outdoor cafés spring up in choose a pizzeria, Smaller restaurants may
the summer on many streets kebab house or café. close for their annual holiday
and squares, and also in green Those with a sweet tooth during July.
areas such as Djurgården and will be well catered for in Prices for lunch are often
Hagaparken (see pp124–5). Stockholm’s many modern extremely reasonable, even at
cafés or traditional cake shops, the more elegant places, which
which serve delicious Danish makes lunchtime a good time
Types of Restaurants pastries, cinnamon buns, to have your main meal. Dagens
Fashionable restaurants usually cakes and gateaux. lunch (lunch of the day) is
attract a young crowd, and the Stockholm has few bars generally not served after 2pm,
trendiest places sometimes (see pp178–9) as such, and the even if the restaurant is open in
the afternoon.
For those who prefer to eat
late, a number of restaurants
and pubs serve food until mid-
night or even later, particularly
those that have entertainment,
music or a disco. For those who
are still hungry, there are
24-hour hot-dog kiosks.

Vegetarian Food
Interest in vegetarian food
is increasing in Sweden, and
this is reflected by the fact
that good-quality vegetarian
cuisine is now served at most
Stockholm restaurants. There
are also several completely
The elegant and spacious dining area of the popular Grodan, on Grev Turegatan (p166) vegetarian restaurants.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  163

wine. Vintage wines are usually

not available at the more
medium-price restaurants.
Many pubs and restaurants
offer a wide selection of beers,
often with one or more on
draught. Many smaller Swedish
breweries make excellent craft
beers that rival those around
the world.
Spirits and wines are
more expensive in Swedish
restaurants because of the high
duty on alcohol and the state
The ever-busy Nytorget Urban Deli (p171) retail alcohol monopoly.
Booking a Table the restaurant has a staffed cloak-
Reservations should be made room, the price is 10–20 kr per Recommended
for evening meals, but many person. Credit cards are accepted Restaurants
restaurants do not accept in virtually every restaurant. The restaurants featured in this
bookings for lunch. If you want guide have been selected for
to be sure of a table at midday, it their good value, great food,
is best to arrive at the restaurant Reading the Menu atmosphere or a combination
before 11:30am; or go after Dinner in Stockholm usually of these things. A wide range of
1pm, by which time most of the includes a starter, hot main establishments from Stockholm’s
lunchtime clientele will have left. course and a dessert. Most dining scene has been included,
restaurants offer one or more from bistros and trattorias to
fixed-price meals with a choice Swedish restaurants and the
Children of two or three dishes at a more elegant fine-dining
Without exception, children lower price than the à la carte restaurants, some with Michelin
are welcome in all restaurants menu. Many restaurants have stars. Also featured are eateries
in Stockholm. They will be menus in English; if they don’t, serving ethnic cuisine from
offered a special children’s the staff are usually familiar across the world. A number of
menu or half-portions from the with English and will be happy select diners outside the main
normal menu. Highchairs are to explain the menu. A number city are included for their
generally available. of menus have a section outstanding food.
labelled Husmanskost, which For the very best restaurants
features traditional dishes of in Stockholm, look out for
Prices Swedish home-cooking. entries marked DK Choice.
Meal prices at Stockholm Some restaurants serve a These places have been
restaurants are very similar. At typical Swedish smörgåsbord, highlighted in recognition of an
most places hot dishes cost usually on Sundays. During exceptional feature – a celebrity
from about 125 kr, or 250 kr at December a Julbord is also chef, exquisite food, an inviting
the more expensive restaurants. usually available. This is similar ambience or simply for great
Lunch prices are 75–100 kr, to the smörgåsbord, but with value. Most are very popular
and that often includes bread, a lavish buffet selection of among locals and visitors, so be
salad, a soft drink and coffee. traditional seasonal dishes. sure to contact them regarding
The price of beer, wine and You can eat as much as you reservations well in advance to
other alcoholic drinks can like at a fixed price, but drinks guarantee a table.
vary considerably. As in most are not included.
places, the more expensive the
restaurant, the higher the price
of the wine. The house wine is What to Drink
usually the cheapest, with a Wine and beer
bottle normally costing from are the normal
250 kr. Beer is cheaper in pubs accompaniments
than in restaurants. Tap water to a meal, as well
is free of charge, and Stock- as tap or mineral
holm’s drinking water is of water. The wine list
excellent quality. often features a
Tips are always included good selection of
in the bill but, if you want wine from countries
to reward exceptionally good outside Europe, Stately entrance to the plush Mäster Anders restaurant
service, you can round it up. If along with a house in Kungsholmen (p169)
164  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

The Flavours of Stockholm

Thanks to strict regulations, Sweden is one of most unpolluted
countries in Europe and produces some of the purest food.
Salmon can be caught in the heart of Stockholm, zander and
herring are fished from the nearby coastal waters and the lakes
and rivers are full of crayfish and other delicacies. Fish is a
staple, but other gastronomic treats are also on offer.
Wild game, such as grouse, reindeer and moose, is
abundant in autumn and winter. The forests are full of
berries and mushrooms, and the rich pastures produce
Fresh dill
superlative dairy produce, including several fine cheeses.

it has grown into a full-scale potatoes, onions, anchovies

meal. A traditional smörgåsbord and cream). Finally an array
will start with a selection of of desserts will be placed
different herring appetizers, on the table. Diners help
followed by a variety of cold themselves, changing their
dishes such as hard-boiled plates between courses.
eggs, meat pies and salads. Some Swedes will prepare
Then a number of hot dishes a smörgåsbord as a good way
are served, including such of using leftovers. Inventive
offerings as meatballs, fried cooks often improvise a
potatoes and Jansson’s very simple version when
Temptation (a gratin of unexpected guests arrive,
Beetroot & orange salad Rye crispbread Pickled herring Egg with
Fresh anchovies on offer at
Cucumber salad lumpfish roe
Östermalmshallen food market

The Smörgåsbord
The smörgåsbord made its first
appearance on Swedish tables
sometime in the 18th century,
when it consisted of a spread
of hot and cold hors d’oeuvres Cheese
that would be served as a Pork liver pâté
prelude to a grand lunch or
dinner. All this was washed Lingonberry tartlets
down with ice-cold snaps Smoked ham
(vodka). Gradually, however, Selection of items typically found on a cold smörgåsbord

Local Dishes and Specialities

A typical Swedish breakfast often includes yoghurt or
filmjölk (a type of soured milk yoghurt) with cereal.
Many Swedes, however, prefer a more savoury start to
the day, and cheese, ham and even liver paté may be
on offer. Bread spread with kaviar (a cod’s roe paste) is
also eaten at breakfast. For lunch, most people reach
for something quick and simple to prepare. Salad,
perhaps served with a seafood, ham or vegetable
quiche, is common, and pasta is popular too. As well
as the main meals, a break for coffee and pastries,
known as fika, is taken at any time of the day. This
strong Swedish tradition is a sociable event as much
as an occasion to eat. In the evening, families usually
get together for the main meal of the day, dinner, a Gravad Lax, a salmon fillet marinated for
more elaborate, but still homely, affair. two days in sugar, salt and dill, is served
with a creamy mustard sauce.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  165

Sweden’s Dining
“Revolution”
The turn of the 21st century
has witnessed a renaissance of
gourmet cooking in Sweden,
with people now visiting
Stockholm for its food as well
as its culture. Traditional dishes,
made with the finest – usually
organic – ingredients are being
given an original, modern twist.
Instead of simple meatballs
with lingonberries, chefs are
increasingly offering delights
A colourful vegetable stall at Hötorget market such as foie gras with a spiced
mixed berry and apple
using larder staples, such as served on Thursdays, chutney, and turning cheap
eggs, slices of cheese and accompanied by sausages staples, such as pig’s offal,
cooked meats, and tinned or lightly salted meat and into magnificent, melt-in-
or pickled fish. During the mustard. This is generally the-mouth mousses.
Christmas season, many followed by pancakes with
Stockholm restaurants serve jam, washed down with hot WHAT TO DRINK
a special smörgåsbord, known punsch. Other popular dishes
as a Julbord, which will include include pytt i panna (a hash of Beer Along with vodka, beer
is the most popular drink to
dishes using nearly every part meat, onions and potatoes)
accompany a smörgåsbord.
of the pig, such as various and meatballs, served with
In the past, little was on offer
ham, trotters and a special lingonberry jam.
other than insipid lagers, but a
brawn called sylta, made beer-making revival has made
from the head. styles from dark porters to pale
Rustic Fare ales available, including some
interesting fruit beers.
The Swedes are very good at
Vodka About 60 types of
using cheap cuts to prepare snaps, each flavoured with
delicious dishes, and different herbs and spices,
seasoning is usually kept are made in Sweden.
simple with salt, pepper and
Punsch This sweet arak spirit
fresh dill. Such homely fare,
is often taken with coffee or
known as husmanskost, is
served hot with pea soup.
central to the Swedish diet
and regularly features on the Wine A huge variety of fine
menus of many Stockholm wines are imported, but they
are usually very expensive.
restaurants. One favourite is A selection of fine fish from Sweden’s
yellow pea soup, traditionally pristine coastal waters

Jansson’s Temptation is a dish Meatballs made from beef or Apple cake is a delicious
of layered potatoes, anchovies pork are drenched in a rich buttery dessert traditionally
and onions with cream, and is meaty sauce and served with served piping hot with cold
baked until golden. lingonberries. vanilla sauce.
166  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

particular animal and usually Price Guide
Gamla Stan changes every couple of weeks. Prices are for a three-course meal for
one, half a bottle of house wine and
other charges such as service and cover.
Vapiano Gamla Stan  Frantzen 
 under 450 Kr
Bistro/Trattoria Map 4 B3 Fine Dining Map 4 B3  450–1,000 Kr
Munkbrogatan 8, 114 27 Lilla Nygatan 21, 111 28  over 1,000 Kr
Tel 08-22 29 40 Tel 08-20 85 80 Closed Sun
Upmarket fast-food joint, where Everything about this restaurant,
a range of dishes – from pasta with two Michelin stars, is and French classics. Eat on the
to pizza – is rustled up in front designed to maximize the terrace in the summer months.
of the patrons in no time. feast of the senses. Exquisite set
menus and impeccable service. Grill 

Bistro & Grill Ruby  Fine Dining Map 2 C3

Bistro/Trattoria Map 4 C3 Mr French  Drottninggatan 89, 113 60
Österlånggatan 14, 111 31 Seafood Map 4 C3 Tel 08-31 45 30
Tel 08-20 57 76 Closed Sun Tullhus 2, Skeppsbron, 111 30 This huge bar and grill
Choose between grilled food Tel 08-20 20 95 appeals to a young crowd
in US Southern down-home The menu, prepared by one of who flock here for the sizzling
style, or French home-cooking Sweden’s top chefs, is inspired steaks and delicious cocktails.
accompanied by wine in a more by classic French brasserie food. Do not miss the elaborate
formal set-up. Great views across the water. Sunday buffet.

Le Rouge  Grodan 

DK Choice Fine Dining Map 4 C3 Swedish Map 3 E2
Bistro Pastis  Brunnsgränd 24, 111 30 Grev Turegatan 16, 114 46
Bistro/Trattoria Map 4 C3 Tel 08-50 52 44 30 Closed Sun Tel 08-679 61 00
Baggensgatan 12, 111 31 High-class French cuisine, with Classic Swedish food in a
Tel 08-20 20 18 the occasional Italian twist, is pleasant setting. The raggmunk
Sample excellent, good-value served in luxurious surroundings. (Swedish potato pancakes) are
French bistro food in an area hard to resist. Popular with the
otherwise packed with tourist local crowd.
traps. The informal setting and
reasonably priced set lunch City Hattori Sushi Devil 
menus make this a popular Japanese Map 2 B3
choice. The crème brûlée is Belgobaren  Drottninggatan 85, 111 60
one of Stockholm’s finest. Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 C4 Tel 08-22 44 00
Bryggargatan 12, 101 31 A small and cozy restaurant
Tel 08-24 66 40 serving good-quality sushi
Den Gyldene Freden  A Belgian restaurant serving and sashimi. The fried shrimp
Fine Dining Map 4 C4 huge portions of fresh mussels is a popular choice. Serves
Österlånggatan 51, 103 17 and frites with oodles of mayo. five kinds of sake.
Tel 08-24 97 60 Closed Sun Great range of Belgian beers.
Good Swedish and French cuisine Jamie’s Italian 
at this restaurant favoured by Cloud Nine  Italian Map 3 D3
artists and intellectuals. Fine Dining Map 2 B4 Humlegårdsgatan 23, 114 46
Torsgatan 1, 111 23 Tel 08-517 340 20
Magnus Ladulas  Tel 08-653 69 90 Closed Sun The first Jamie Oliver restaurant
Swedish Map 4 C3 Sample different cuisine – from in Sweden, located in the
Österlånggatan 26, 111 31 dim sum to Swedish seafood heart of the city’s entertainment
Tel 08-21 19 57 Closed Sun district. The menu features
Guests choose the setting – a appetizing, rustic dishes.
cellar, a classic dining room or,
in the right weather, the street Nalen 
terrace. Delectable fare. Swedish Map 3 D3
Regeringsgatan 74, 111 39
Pubologi  Tel 08-50 52 92 01 Closed Sun
Fine Dining Map 4 B3 Traditional Swedish food put
Stora Nygatan 20, 111 27 together using the finest local
Tel 08-50 64 00 86 Closed Sun & Jul ingredients, such as reindeer,
Modern cooking mixed with bleak roe and cranberries.
classic Swedish and international
dishes. The restaurant also brews Operakällarens Bakficka 
a couple of unique beers. Seafood Map 3 D5
Karl XII:s Torg, 111 86
Djuret  Tel 08-676 58 00 Closed Sun
Fine Dining Map 4 B3 Savour generous helpings
Lilla Nygatan 5, 111 28 of Swedish food, especially
Tel 08-50 64 00 84 Closed Sun & Jul fish. The daily specials are
Meat, and lots of it. The menu is Entrance to the chic Bistro Pastis, listed on a chalkboard.
based around the meat of one Gamla Stan No reservations.
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  167

PA and Co 

Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 E4
Riddargatan 8, 114 35
Tel 08-611 08 45
Another small yet famous
Stockholm restaurant, for which
you will almost certainly need a
reservation. French food that is
definitely worth the money.

Rolfs Kök 

Modern Swedish Map 2 C3

Tegnérgatan 41, 111 61
Tel 08-10 16 96
Taste some of the best seasonal
Swedish food in the city. The wine
list runs to more than 450 varieties.

Sturehof 

Swedish Map 3 D4
Stureplan 2, 114 46 Glitzy bar area at the classy Grodan
Tel 08-440 57 30
This place offers a really good Griffins Steakhouse  a blend of French fine dining
selection of meat and seafood Steak Map 2 C4 and classic Swedish dishes.
in a traditional setting. There is Klarabergsviadukten 67, 111 64 Excellent service.
also a lively bar at the back. Tel 08-51 94 22 70 Closed Sun
Upmarket steakhouse offering Wedholms Fisk 

Supper  a choice of sizes: 250 g (8.8 oz) or Seafood Map 3 E4

South American Map 2 B3 350 g (12 oz). The burger with Arsenalsgatan 1, 111 47
Tegnérgatan 37, 111 61 cheddar and bacon is heavenly. Tel 08-611 78 74 Closed Sun
Tel 08-23 24 24 Closed Sun Great food with views to match,
Spacious and bright restaurant Operakällaren  and arguably the finest selection
serving South American-inspired Swedish Map 4 C1 of seafood in the land. Don’t
food. Try the slow-cooked beef Karl XII:s Torg, 111 86 miss the signature turbot.
with chocolate and chilli, or Tel 08-676 58 00 Closed Sun & Mon
fishcakes with lime and ginger. Enjoy a lavish dining experience
in surroundings that are an
Tjabba Thai  attraction in themselves. Reserve Blasieholmen &
Thai Map 2 B3 well in advance for weekends. Skeppsholmen
Wallingatan 7, 111 60
Tel 08-21 99 88 Riche 

Spicy and tasty Thai food prepared Swedish Map 3 E4

with authentic ingredients. Closes Birger Jarlsgatan 4, 114 34 DK Choice
at 10pm. Try the som tam tai Tel 08-54 50 35 60 B.A.R. 
salad and the geng som gong, a Swedish food at its best. The Seafood Map 4 C1
dish of scampi in a spicy curry. meatballs with mash and gravy Blasieholmsgatan 4a, 111 48
are terrific. Informal ambience. Tel 08-611 53 35
Zink Grill  Choose fish from the large
Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 D4 Teatergrillen  counter and watch it get custom-
Biblioteksgatan 5, 111 46 Fine Dining Map 3 E2 cooked to perfection. There is
Tel 08-611 42 22 Nybrogatan 3, 114 34 lobster and crab too, waiting to
An outstanding bar and grill in Tel 08-54 50 35 65 Closed Sun be fished out of the aquarium
an unbeatable location. It’s open Come to one of Stockholm’s and boiled or grilled. One of the
for breakfast too, which is rare in oldest restaurants to enjoy most popular eateries in the city.
Stockholm. For lunch, the mixed
grill for two offers great value.
Hjerta 

Swedish Map 5 D2
DK Choice Slupskjulsvagen 28b, 111 49
Ekstedt  Tel 08-611 41 00 Closed Sun & winter
Modern Swedish Map 3 D3 With its terrific Skeppsholmen
Humlegårdsgatan 17, 114 46 setting and classic Swedish
Tel 08-611 12 10 Closed Sun cuisine, Hjerta is a great place for
Michelin-starred Ekstedt serves a quiet lunch or private dinner.
amazing grilled meat and fish
cooked over open fires by a Långa Raden 
team of young top Swedish chefs. Fine Dining Map 5 F3
The experience is made more Gröna gången 1, 111 86
enjoyable by the superb waiting Tel 08-407 23 00
staff. Set menus are expensive Situated in Hotel Skeppsholmen,
but offer a genuine culinary this place offers formal dining with
journey through Sweden. Elegant interior of the Wedholms Fisk, classic Swedish and international
popular for seafood dishes on the menu. Great service.
For more information on types of restaurants see p163
168  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

The Norwegian cod with mashed

potatoes is especially popular.

Funkalistic 

Swedish
Sehlstedtsgatan 1, 115 28
Tel 08-12 20 37 77
Close to the cruise ship and
ferry terminals, this family-run
establishment offers traditional
Swedish food at great prices.

Spring 

Ethnic Map 2 C2
Karlavägen 110, 115 26
Tel 08-655 11 22
Spring relies on a delicious and
complex mix of influences, such
Refreshing beer from the tap at Ulla Windbladh, Djurgården as Asian, North African and South
American, in its dishes.
Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen Villa Godthem 
and Matbaren  Fine Dining Map 6 A3 Bistro Nouveau 

Fine Dining Map 4 C1 Rosendalsvagen 9, 115 21 Fine Dining Map 3 E3

Grand Hotel, Södra Tel 08-50 52 44 15 Kommendörsgatan 7, 114 48
Blasieholmshamnen 6, 111 48 Great location and excellent Tel 08-661 42 42 Closed Mon
Tel 08-679 35 84 food, mostly Swedish classics. Try snails, the fantastic steak
The tasting menu at this Michelin- The emphasis is on organic tartare and mussels with fries
starred restaurant is a veritable fare, and local ingredients at this excellent French eatery.
treat of flavours and innovative are used whenever possible. Desserts are great, too.
combinations. There is also a
more elaborate six-course themed Brasserie Bobonne 
menu. Well-stocked wine cellar. Fine Dining Map 3 E4
Östermalm and Storgatan 12, 114 51
Gärdet Tel 08-660 03 18
Sample classic dishes such as
Djurgården Dell’Attore  moules marinières and boeuf
Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 F2 bourguignon, and enjoy a range
Hasselbacken  Skeppargatan 60, 114 59 of well-matured French cheeses.
Swedish Map 6 A3 Tel 08-442 61 18
Hazeliusbacken 20, 100 55 Small, bustling eatery decorated Cassi 

Tel 08-51 73 43 00 from floor to ceiling with photos Fine Dining Map 3 F3
Traditional Swedish food served of famous actors. The pizzas are Narvavägen 30, 115 22
in a finely restored 1850s setting. the best in town. Tel 08-661 74 61
Good selection of desserts. A This place dishes out modern
children’s menu is also available. Brasserie Elverket  European cuisine with a hint of
Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 D3 French. Good steak Béarnaise
Solliden Skansen  Linnégatan 69, 114 60 and a legendary wine list.
Swedish Map 6 A3 Tel 08-661 25 62
Skansen Museum, 100 55 Scandinavian/European food Esperanto 

Tel 08-56 63 70 00 served in an informal setting. Fine Dining Map 3 B3

Enjoy breathtaking views of Kungstensgatan 2, 114 25
Stockholm at this charming Tel 08-696 23 23
eatery and savour a classic Housed in a former theatre, this
Swedish smörgåsbord at lunch. Michelin-starred restaurant
serves superbly inventive food.
Spritmuseum Restaurant  Unpretentious service. Try the
Fine Dining Map 6 B4 15-course tasting menu.
Djurgårdsvägen 38, 115 21
Tel 08-12 13 13 09 Proviant 

Head Chef Petter Nilsson, who Swedish Map 3 E3

previously owned two renowned Sturegatan 19, 114 36
restaurants in France, uses Tel 08-22 60 50
seasonal, locally sourced ingredi- Lively restaurant serving excellent
ents to create sumptuous dishes. and inventive Swedish cuisine
with a French twist. Don’t miss
Ulla Windbladh  the five-course “surprise” menu.
Swedish Map 6 A3
Rosendalsvägen 8, 115 21 Restaurang Volt 

Tel 08-53 48 97 01 Swedish Map 3 E3

Beautifully located restaurant Kommendörsgatan 16, 114 48
with an old-fashioned Tel 08-662 34 00 Closed Sun & Mon
atmosphere serving traditional Softly lit dining area at sleek gastropub This gastropub with minimalist
and modern Swedish food. Restaurang Volt decor serves traditional Swedish
Key to Price Guide see p166
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  169

food. Specialities include must- Spisa Hos Helena  Mäster Anders 
have dishes such as reindeer Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 A4 Swedish Map 2 A4
with berries and baked marrow. Scheelegatan 18, 112 28 Pipersgatan 1, 112 24
Tel 08-654 49 26 Tel 08-654 20 01
Speceriet  This restaurant serves up large Contemporary Swedish restaurant
Bistro/Trattoria Map 3 F2 portions of classic international that offers an excellent lunch
Artillerigatan 14, 114 51 dishes at affordable prices. menu. Delicious meatballs.
Tel 08-662 30 60
This tiny place offers modern Sthlm Tapas  Restaurang Jonas 
Nordic food with a contemporary Spanish Map 1 C3 Fine Dining Map 1 B2
take on classic dishes. It is best to Pontonjärgatan 28, 112 37 Fleminggatan 39, 112 26
reserve ahead. Tel 08-654 90 30 Tel 08-650 22 20
Good tapas are hard to find in There is a wide range of gourmet
Stockholm, but this place won’t international dishes at this
Kungsholmen disappoint. Loads of Spanish restaurant, and a great five-course
hams and quesadillas as well. set menu. Good service.
La Famiglia 

Bistro/Trattoria Map 1 B2 Tabbouli  Stadshuskällaren 

Alströmergatan 45, 112 47 Lebanese Map 2 A4 Fine Dining Map 1 B3
Tel 08-650 63 10 Norra Agnegatan 39, 112 29 Hantverkargatan 1, 112 21
Particularly popular with families, Tel 08-650 25 00 Tel 08-58 62 18 30
this charming restaurant Probably the best Lebanese Set in the basement of the City
serves delectable classic Italian restaurant in Stockholm. It Hall, this restaurant hosts the
cuisine in a quirky setting at specializes in grilled meats and annual Nobel Prize banquet.
budget prices. meze, all served in a lively setting. Serves traditional Swedish food.

Great India  Trattorian 

Indian Map 1 B2 Bistro/Trattoria Map 1 B3

Fleminggatan 62, 112 45 Norr Malarstrand, Kajplats 464, Vasastan
Tel 08-651 99 01 112 20
One of the very few quality Tel 08-50 52 44 50 Closed Sun Bistrot Paname 
Indian restaurants in Stockholm. Lively, trendy waterside Italian Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 B1
Delectable curries, good restaurant worth visiting for the Hagagatan 5, 113 48
staff and a lovely terrace in chaotic yet stylish decor. The Tel 08-31 43 38
the summer. food matches the surroundings, French bistro that offers gorgeous
and prices are good. ambience and inventive food at
El Diablo  great prices. Impeccable service.
Latin American Map 2 A4 AG 
Norra Agnegatan 43, 112 29 Steak Map 1 C2 I Cinque Sensi 

Tel 08-650 50 69 Kronobergsgatan 37, 112 33 Bistro/Trattoria Map 1 B1

Tequila recommedations with Tel 08-41 06 81 00 Rörstrandsgatan 23, 113 40
every dish. Offers delectable food A meat lover’s paradise, and Tel 08-33 31 00
made with seasonal ingredients home of one of Sweden’s best Excellent Italian eatery. The grilled
served in a modern environment. bison steaks. Good tapas menu red tuna is great, as are the
and decent cocktails, too. desserts. Good selection of wines.
DK Choice Lux  Clas på Hörnet 

Mälarpaviljongen  Fine Dining Swedish Map 2 C2

Bistro/Trattoria
Bistro/T
/ rattoria Map 1 B3 Primusgatan 116, 112 67 Surbrunnsgatan 20, 113 48
Norr Mälarstrand 64, 112 35 Tel 08-619 01 90 Closed Mon Tel 08-16 51 36 Closed Sun
Tel 08-650 87 01 Michelin-starred Swedish food Old-fashioned Swedish restaurant.
An absolutely lovely place served in the former Electrolux Highlights include duck sausage
to eat outdoors, by the canteen. The lunchtime set menu and sautéed sweetbreads with
waterside, from spring to offers great value for money. leeks and cured ox tongue.
autumn. Soak in the laid-back
ambience, complete with
chill-out music and lounge-
bar feel. The menu features
upmarket burgers, salads
and grilled fish. Prices are
reasonable, and the service
is exceptional.

Roppongi 

Japanese Map 1 B3
Hantverkargatan 76c, 12 38
Tel 08-650 17 72
A great place that offers really
good sushi, attentive service
and a pleasant atmosphere.
Roppongi also has another
branch in Stockholm. The simple dining room at Mäster Anders

For more information on types of restaurants see p163

170  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Linguini  and an excellent selection of

Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 A2 curries. Try the prawn cocktail.
Frejgatan 48, 113 26
Tel 08-31 49 15 Faros 

A small and homely Italian Greek Map 9 E3

restaurant that serves tasty Sofiagatan 1, 116 40
pasta dishes. There is also a Tel 08-442 14 14
good selection of Italian A fine selection of Greek dishes
wines on offer. draws the crowds here. Don’t
miss the dolmadakia and Faros
Restaurang Malaysia  pepper steak. The restaurant also
Malaysian Map 3 D4 serves excellent seafood and a
Luntmakargatan, 111 37 good selection of wines.
Tel 08-673 56 69
Great selection of vegetarian Feca 
dishes at this Asian place. The Bistro/Trattoria Map 8 B2
fish curry is highly recommended. Torkel Knutssonsgatan 35, 118 49
Tel 08-428 98 28
Tennstopet  One of the best places in
Swedish Map 2 A2 Stockholm to gorge on cheap
Dalagatan 50, 113 24 The brightly lit entrance to Tranan, a classy Italian food. Feca offers healthy
Tel 08-32 25 18 bistro, Vasastan portions of pizza and pasta at
Unpretentious neighbourhood half the price of similar eateries.
joint that rustles up scrumptious
Swedish food. It has been around DK Choice Hermans 
for almost half a century. Stallmästaregården  Vegetarian Map 9 E2
Fine Dining Fjällgatan 23B, 116 28
Tranan  Stallmästaregården, Norrtull, Tel 08-643 94 80
Swedish Map 3 F2 113 47 Enjoy great views from the
Karlbergsvägen 14, 113 27 Tel 08-610 13 01 waterside tables at this
Tel 08-52 72 81 00 This former coaching inn restaurant. There is live jazz or
A little off the beaten track, dating from the 17th century bossa nova two or three times a
this bistro-style eatery offers is charmingly located on week, and a vegetarian buffet
superb international cuisine Brunnsviken lakeside. Tastefully that changes theme daily.
and Swedish home food at renovated in 2012, it offers a
good prices. There is a lively wide range of modern Swedish
bar downstairs. cuisine with strong traditional DK Choice
influences. The smörgåsbord Indian Garden 
served on weekend afternoons Indian Map 1 C5
offers good value. Warm and Heleneborgsgatan 15, 117 31
Nortull and North friendly service. Tel 08-84 94 28
of Stockholm An excellent Indian restaurant
that dishes out delectable
Döden I Grytan  curries made to order, as
Bistro/Trattoria Map 2 B2 spicy as one may choose to
Norrtullsgatan 61, Normalm, Södermalm try out. Go for the devilishly
113 45 hot vindaloo or the mild
Tel 08-32 50 95 Ellora  chicken korma. There are plenty
Come to this superb restaurant Indian Map 8 A2 of options for vegetarians as
for classic Italian countryside Hornsgatan 85, 117 26 well, and it is perfect for large
food. It is almost always full, and Tel 08-658 65 01 groups of diners. Service is
reservations are essential. Great Good, relatively cheap Indian fantastic and very friendly.
value for money. restaurant with gorgeous decor

Blå Dörren 

Swedish Map 9 D2
Södermalmstorg 6, 116 45
Tel 08-743 07 43
Good-value Swedish food in a
lovely dining room complete
with high, arched ceilings. The
lunchtime buffet is particularly
good and well priced.

Delikatessen Bistro Bar 

Bistro/Trattoria Map 8 B2
Krukmakargatan 22, 118 51
Tel 08-658 42 50
Housed inside an old fire station.
The food is an exquisite blend of
modern European and classic
French cuisine, and the decor is
Outside seating at the Tennstopet in Vasastan trendy and chic.
Key to Price Guide see p166
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  171

Häktet 

Swedish Map 8 A2
Hornsgatan 82, 118 21
Tel 08-84 59 10 Closed Sun
Classic Swedish food in a
minimalist and contemporary
setting, away from the tourist
hordes. Superb wine selection and
cocktails complement the food.

Hjordis 

Swedish/Thai Map 9 E3
Borgmästargatan 7, 116 29
Tel 08-640 99 50 Closed Sun
Contemporary Swedish and Thai
fusion cuisine brings in a hip
crowd. The retro design of the Warm interiors and cozy couches at Gondolen, Södermalm
place appeals to youngsters.
friendly and warm service. Sjögras  Edsbacka 

Swedish/French Map 8 C2 Swedish

Nostrano  Timmermansgatan 24, 118 55 Sollentunavagen 220, 191 35
Bistro/Trattoria Map 8 C2 Tel 08-84 12 00 Closed Sun Solentuna
Timmermansgatan 13, 118 25 A simple and lively restaurant Tel 08-580 016 60
Tel 08-644 10 35 Closed Sun whose trademark is its open Fine yet informal dining at
A bustling eatery serving kitchen. On the menu is mainly an inn dating from 1626. On
outstanding Italian fare. The French food with a Swedish twist. the menu is Swedish food with
pasta is made fresh on the spot, a modern twist. Don’t miss the
and the list of sinful desserts Gondolen  pork schnitzel.
is fantastic. There are no fewer Swedish Map 9 E2
than nine types of grappa. Stadsgården 6, 105 65
Tel 08-641 70 90 Closed Sun DK Choice
Nytorget Urban Deli  Perched 33 m (108 ft) above Fjärderholmarnas
Bistro/Trattoria Map 9 E3 the water, this restaurant offers Rökeriet 
Nytorget 4, 116 40 great views and contemporary Swedish
Tel 08-59 90 91 80 food, not to mention delicious Stora Fjärderholmen,
High-quality food and a cocktaiIs at the sleek bar. It is Fjärderholmarna
quirky atmosphere have made always full, so reservations Tel 08-716 50 88
this the eatery of choice of must be made in advance. On a small island at the
some of Stockholm’s trendiest entrance to the archipelago,
people. The cheese platter is the Rökeriet serves great
delicious. Try the elaborate seafood, available as both
weekend brunch. Further Afield buffet and à la carte. Do not
miss the elaborate and
Båthuset  sumptuous Archipelago Buffet.
DK Choice Seafood The restaurant also serves an
Pelikan  Hamnen, Sigtuna interesting crayfish dinner every
Swedish Map 8 C4 Tel 08-59 25 67 80 Closed Sun & Mon day in August and organizes a
Blekingegatan 40, 116 62 A good-value floating restaurant special Christmas dinner.
Tel 08-55 60 90 90 that mainly prepares seafood,
A traditional Swedish beer with cod and crayfish being the
hall serving all the usual specialities. Great choice for Holmen Kök & Bar 
Swedish favourites, from a romantic dinner. Modern Swedish
herring platter to fish stew. Torben Gruts väg 5, 133 39
The cheeses are delicious, Saltsjöbaden
and the meatballs are arguably Tel 08-717 77 67
Stockholm’s very best. Pelikan Open only during the
attracts both locals and summer, Holmen Kök & Bar
tourists, and serves one of primarily serves the many
the best selections of Swedish locals who keep their boats
beer in the city. Noisy and moored in the small harbour
boisterous, so not the ideal here. Good, simple food, live
place for a quiet night out. music and an exclusive feel.

Landet 
Sardin  Swedish
Seafood Map 9 E3 LM Ericssons vag 27, 126 37
Skånegatan 79, 116 35 Midsommarkransen
Tel 08-644 97 00 Closed Sun Tel 08-41 01 93 20 Closed Sun
Something of a cross between A trendy Swedish eatery,
a French bistro and a tapas bar, Landet is popular with
this small but lively place serves Stockholm foodies. Try the
good-value food to locals and The bar area at the ever-popular Nytorget exquisite veal entrecôte or
visitors in the know. Urban Deli the steak tartare.
For more information on types of restaurants see p163
172  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Cafés and Pubs Bagatelle Café, located in

a bright and airy setting
Swedes love their coffee. At work people take a coffee break right at the entrance to
at around 3pm, and, if they are out and about, they are likely the Kungshallen. They also
to pop into a café. The cake shops (indicated by the sign offer freshly squeezed juices
“Konditori”) have a long tradition. They serve typical Swedish and delicious smoothies.
pastries, with everything from sweet small buns to tempting
gateaux. The best cake shops have their own bakeries and sell Pubs
a variety of pastries and sandwiches. Cafés were once cheaper The old Swedish beer cafés
and more popular than the elegant cake shops, but the have either closed down,
differences have been evened out, and there are now many transformed into a local res-
Continental-style cafés serving espresso, cappuccino and taurant (Tranan at Odenplan
is a typical example – see p170)
caffe latte. Many cafés open for breakfast early in the morning,
or are now pubs with an
and they usually serve lunch as well. The old Swedish “beer international flavour. Irish,
cafés” have been replaced by the city’s many pubs, which also Scottish or English pubs are
serve simple dishes at reasonable prices. all popular, but there are also
influences from Belgium, the
Czech Republic, Germany,
Cafés and Cake Shops outstanding, and chocaholics Australia and the USA.
Café culture is flourishing in won’t be able to resist the home- Stockholmers generally have a
Stockholm, and the style ranges made pralines. After a hectic great interest in beer, so the pubs
from American or Italian to day’s shopping, head for the usually have a wide selection of
traditional Swedish and classic trendy Hotel Diplomat T/Bar, brews, and the staff are know-
cake shops. The café is a good which serves English-style ledgeable. Try some of the beers
choice if you feel peckish afternoon tea. Another oasis in from three small, acclaimed, qua-
between meals, need to rest your the shopping district is Gateau, lity breweries: Tärnö, Stockholm’s
legs or simply want a meeting one floor up in Sturegallerian. own brewery; Slottskällan in
place. Apart from coffee, The pastries are delicious, and Uppsala; and Pilgrimstad from
sandwiches and cakes, nearly all the gentle piano music is parti- northern Sweden.
cafés serve simple lunches – cularly enjoyable and relaxing. One of the busiest and most
quiches and salad, for example – Rather more unusual is traditional pubs is the Tudor
soft drinks and ice cream. Typical Legumes, which serves Arms, opened in the 1960s.
cafés serve Swedish-style strong nutritious yet tasty Middle English is the normal language
coffee, along with sandwiches, Eastern vegetarian delicacies here, and many of the regular
buns and cakes. Don’t miss the with biodynamic bread. Another customers are British. Scots and
delicious prinsesstårta cream one is Bakverket. Renowned for Americans head for the
cake, by far the most popular its fresh baked bread, it is also Bagpiper’s Inn, where
one. Cafés usually close at said to to provide Stockholm’s bagpipes are provided on the
around 6pm. best breakfast. upper floor, and Scottish beers
Many cafés have tables outside Mellgvist Caffé is a very are available. One floor down is
in the summer. If you feel like popular place for hanging the Bald Eagle, where drinkers
sitting under a fruit tree, where out close to Sankt Eriksplan. can enjoy rock music, and there
you can enjoy the birdsong, The moreish turkey and is usually a queue for the billiards
Rosendals Trädgårdskafé on horseradish cream panini table. For some of the best
Djurgården is the place. The is particularly addictive. craft beer in Stockholm, visitors
salad buffet, consisting of Wayne’s Coffee is Söder- can also head to the pub at
organically grown vegetables malm’s most popular meeting Omnipollo, an award-winning
and home-baked bread, is a feast place, with giant sandwiches brewery that has been listed
for the eye and the palate. It is and cakes, comfortable arm- among the top 100 brewers
open only during the summer chairs and an elegant clientele. in the world.
and in December. Lasse i Parken Espresso House serves bagels, Anyone feeling homesick
is another rustic idyll in the city sandwiches, fresh baked goods for Ireland only needs to go
with home-baked bread and and many different types of through the door of Limerick to
delicious cheesecakes. coffee. At Café Tabac you can enjoy some Guinness or Kilkenny.
Sturekatten is a classic cake mingle with the locals as you Irish music is performed there at
shop decorated in the style of enjoy a café au lait and home- weekends. O’Leary’s has many
an early 20th-century upper- baked brownies. Absolutely expat regulars and also serves
class home with many small the finest espresso is served at excellent food. The Dubliner
rooms and unrivalled pastries. Tintarella di Luna, an authentic is yet another Irish pub, with a
Vete-Katten is one of Italian café, which also has large selection of malt whiskeys.
Stockholm’s most authentic the city’s best panini. Coffee Live music contributes to the
cake shops. Its pastries are connoisseurs should not miss atmosphere. On Södermalm,
 W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  173

Soldaten Svejk specializes in rather more refined than at going out to the pub as a pleasant
Czech draught beer and offers most other pubs. A pleasant and often less expensive alter-
rustic country cooking. rural feel pervades the Pub native to their local restaurant.
BrewDog Bar serves a wide Anchor, which specializes in Most pubs are open daily.
range of international and unusual beers and has live Many open for lunch and
Swedish beers, as well as food. music 3–4 nights a week. usually close at 11pm, while a
Beer connoisseurs or whisky Lundgrens is one of Sweden’s few remain open to midnight
drinkers should head for Akkurat, best lagers and can be enjoyed or 1am (see also pp178–9).
which has about 400 different on Kungsholmen, where it is
types of whisky and beer from all brewed by the Tärnö brewery.
over the world, but particularly It is served on draught at both Fast Food
from Belgium. Mussels are Mackinlay’s Inn and Kings If you are looking for a quick
always on the menu, but there Head, two pleasant local pubs. snack, there are plenty of
is also a good choice of other Tennstopet was once a meeting street kiosks selling hot dogs,
hot dishes and delicious snacks. place for journalists, and some hamburgers or kebabs. Several
Beer and whisky tastings take have remained loyal customers. of them are open 24 hours.
place frequently, the staff are It is pleasant but noisy, and The Kungshallen complex at
knowledgeable, and service is there is a darts board. Swedish Hötorget has a lot of restaurants
quick. Oliver Twist is reckoned “home cooking” is available. The and fast-food outlets –
to be one of the city’s best pubs clientele is typically in the upper particularly useful for groups
for draught beer, imported from middle-age bracket. who are undecided on the type
all over the world. The staff here Swedish pubs serve not just of food they want to eat. There
are also dedicated and know- drinks but also snacks and are also plenty of pizzerias of
ledgeable. Business people value-for-money hot food from varying standards, as well as
head for Man in the Moon after lunchtime till late in the evening. Chinese restaurants, where you
work, and the atmosphere is Many Stockholmers now regard can eat well and inexpensively.

DIRECTORY
Cafés and Cake Mellgvist Caffé Pubs Man in the Moon
Shops Rörstandsgatan 4. Tegnérgatan 2 C.
Akkurat Map 2 C3.
Map 1 B1.
Bagatelle Café Hornsgatan 18. Tel 08-458 95 00.
Kungsgatan 44. Tel 08-30 23 80.
Map 8 C2.
Map 2 C4. O’Leary’s
Rosendals Tel 08-644 00 15.
Tel 08-791 88 80. Vasagatan.
Trädgårdskafé Bagpiper’s Inn Map 2 B4.
Bakverket Rosendalsterrassen 12. Tel 073-688 16 86.
Rörstrandsgatan 21.
Bondegatan 59. Map 9 E3. Map 6 C3. Map 1 C1. Oliver Twist
Tel 08-640 91 07.
Tel 08-545 812 70. Tel 08-31 18 55. Repslagargatan 6.
Café Tabac Map 9 D2.
Stora Nygatan 46. Sturekatten BrewDog Bar
Tel 08-640 05 66.
Map 4 B4. Riddargatan 4. St Eriksgatan 56.
Map 3 D4. Map 3 D3. Omnipollo
Tel 08-10 15 34.
Tel 08-650 21 10. Tjärhovsgatan 6.
Espresso House Tel 08-611 16 12.
Map 9 E3.
Sergels Torg 12. Map 2 C4. Tintarella di Luna Copperfields Tel 073-785 57 41.
Tel 08-21 72 00. St Eriksgatan 36–38.
Drottninggatan 102. Pub Anchor
Gateau Map 2 A2. Sveavägen 90.
Map 2 C3.
Sturegallerian. Map 3 D4. Tel 08-654 80 00. Map 2 C2.
Tel 08-10 79 55.
Tel 08-519 791 01. Tel 08-15 20 00.
The Dubliner
Hotel Diplomat T/Bar Wayne’s Coffee Hollandärgatan 1. Soldaten Svejk
Strandvägen 7 C. Götgatan 31. Map 2 C3. Östgötagatan 35.
Map 3 E4. Map 9 D2. Tel 08-679 77 07. Map 9 D3.
Tel 08-459 68 02. Tel 08-644 45 90. Tel 08-641 33 66.
Limerick
Lasse i Parken Kungsgatan 14. Tennstopet
Tegnérgatan 10.
Högalidsgatan 56. Map 3 D4. Dalagatan 50.
Map 2 C3.
Map 1 B5. Tel 08-791 00 86. Map 2 A2.
Tel 08-658 33 95. Tel 08-673 43 98.
Tel 08-32 25 18.
Vete-Katten Mackinlay’s Inn
Legumes Tudor Arms
Hornsgatan 80. Kungsgatan 55. Fleminggatan 85. Grevgatan 31.
Map 8 B2. Map 2 C4. Map 1 C2. Map 3 F4.
Tel 08-669 35 35. Tel 08-20 84 05. Tel 08-650 83 20. Tel 08-660 27 12.
174  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN
STOCKHOLM
Stockholm is an important city for music’s great position on the world stage,
entertainment. The capital, which was once which has made it an important export
said to have a “cold beauty”, is now a vibrant, item. A wide range of entertainment is on
trend-setting metropolis full of theatres, offer, and the short distance between venues
bars and music venues. International stars is another benefit. The Royal Opera House,
increasingly put Stockholm on their touring for instance, is only a few minutes’ walk from
schedule, not least because of its two the intimate clubs of Gamla Stan. Stockholm
magnificent indoor arenas, Globen and also has a rich cultural life with concerts,
Tele2Arena. Another factor is Swedish pop drama and exhibitions.

Booking Tickets
Tickets for events can usually be
bought at the ticket office of the
relevant venue. But to be sure of
a seat, it is advisable to book in
advance either with the help of
your hotel or the Stockholm
Visitors Board’s Visitor Centre,
located at Kulturhuset, Sergels
Torg 5. You can also use one of
the city’s ticket agencies, for
example Ticnet, which can make
bookings by telephone for the-
atres, concerts, sporting events
Kungliga Operan (Royal Opera House), Gustav II Adolfs Torg (see p66) and excursions. A booking fee of
10–45 kr is charged depending
on the price of the ticket.
Entertainment Listings (see p191) has an official
Daily newspapers offer detailed “tourist site” (www.visit
information on forthcoming stockholm.com), which is Swedish Music
events; this is printed either constantly updated with Sweden is one of the world’s
in a special section or in detailed information and leading music exporters. No
weekend supplements; includes some useful links. matter the musical genre, you
note, however, that this For a wealth of information will find Swedish artists who
information is only in Swedish. about entertainment and have achieved international
The Internet has several events in Stockholm, including success. Bands including ABBA
good sites with up-to-date museums, restaurants and and Roxette paved the way for
details on special events. concerts, visit www.alltom artists such as Robyn and
Stockholm Visitor Centre stockholm.se. Another useful songwriters such as Mike Snow,
website is www. who has delivered hits for the
eventful.com, likes of Lady Gaga, Madonna
where you can and Britney Spears.
browse upcoming
entertainment
options such as Outdoor Concerts
concerts, festivals, and Festivals
kids’ events Major outdoor events get under
and nightlife. way in mid-May with the annual
A fourth extremely Kungsträdgården programme.
useful and user- This includes a wide variety of
friendly site on music with regular lunchtime and
entertainment in evening concerts. In the second
the Swedish capital week of June the Slottsgalorna
is www.ticnet.se. event takes place at Ulriksdals
Information on all Slott with international stars and
Stampen, in Stora Nygatan, one of Stockholm’s four websites is at the country’s top musicians.
great jazz clubs (see p179) least partly in English. Skansen stages a wide range of
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S TO C K H O L M  175

DIRECTORY
Events Listings
Stockholm
Visitor Centre
Kulturhuset, Sergels
Torg 5, Stockholm.
Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-508 28 508.
∑ visitstockholm.com

Other good Internet sites:

∑ alltomstockholm.se
∑ eventful.com
A sea of people at the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra’s annual outdoor concert in August
∑ ticnet.se
music, especially in July, with jazz It is replaced by night buses.
on Monday evenings. The Several night buses depart from
Ticket Bookings
Stockholm Jazz Festival is held Sergels Torg, and most bus Ticnet
on Skeppsholmen in mid-July, stops have maps showing the Tel 077-170 70 70.
and attracts the big names in jazz night routes. Taxis are not ∑ ticnet.se
and blues. usually difficult to find, even on
For classical music lovers, the a Saturday evening (see p201). Stockholm
Royal Philharmonic Orchestra’s for Children
outdoor concert at Sjöhistoriska
(National Maritime Museum) on Stockholm for Children Fjäderholmarna p152
the second Sunday in August is Compared with many major Gröna Lund p97
one of the summer’s highlights. cities, Stockholm is an extremely Junibacken p90
The concert is an annual child-friendly place and ideal for
Kulturhuset p69
tradition and attracts audiences family visits.
of 25,000–30,000. It is easy to take prams and Skansen pp100–101
Other events worth attending pushchairs on to the new buses, Medeltidsmuseum p61
include A Taste of Stockholm at and there is plenty of space for Naturhistoriska
Kungsträdgården (first weekend them inside (see also p191). Riksmuseet/Cosmonova p126
in June) and the Czech Culture Most of the museums have Leksaksmuseet p133
and Beer Festival (mid-July). children’s corners with special
Vasamuseet pp94–6
activities. Museums and other
important sights often have a
Night-Time Transport cafeteria or restaurant with
The Tunnelbana stops around special menus or smaller
3:30am Sunday to Thursday portions for children. Toilets The open-air museum Skansen,
nights, but on Friday and with a baby-changing table with all its animals and exciting
Saturday nights it runs until 4am. are frequently available. activities, can keep a family
Many of the favou- happily occupied for a whole day.
rite places for children Special children’s weeks are
are on Djurgården. organized on Fjäderholmarna,
Junibacken has an a group of islands that can be
exciting journey reached from the city centre in
through the fantastic only 25 minutes.
world of the children’s Leksaksmuseet (the Toy
author Astrid Museum) on Söder is a
Lindgren. The nearby safe bet for children. At
Vasamuseet is also Medeltidsmuseum children
child-friendly. For can experience what life was
decades the Gröna like in Stockholm in the Middle
Lund funfair has Ages. In the city centre
been a mixture of Kulturhuset has a variety
traditional and of children’s activities with
exciting modern a cultural content.
attractions, making Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet
it an ideal excursion (Museum of Natural History)
for families with houses the Cosmonova planet-
both teenagers and arium and IMAX cinema, which
Gröna Lund’s roller coaster younger children. is a big attraction for children.
176  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Drama and Classical Music for new Swedish and foreign

drama. Marionetteatern has
Stockholm’s year as Cultural Capital of Europe in 1998 was a puppet shows for both children
well-deserved honour, as all the city’s various areas of culture and adults, along with a puppet
reflect a high degree of dedication and talent. This applies museum on the same premises.
Pantomimteatern is a theatre
particularly to the world of music, which has seen many top- company which performs not
class international artists emerge from the capital’s stages. As only in Stockholm but tours
a result opera, ballet and classical music is well supported by rural areas, too.
Stockholmers, who have a wide home-grown repertoire to Light-hearted plays are often
enjoy. This is also complemented by a number of guest artists staged at China-Teatern, and its
from all over the world. programmes include some
highly popular musicals and
some much-loved plays for
children. High-quality musicals
Ballet and Dance near Ulriksdal (see p127). are also performed at Oscars-
Classical ballet of the highest Between June and September Teatern, Göta Lejon and Cirkus.
quality is mainly staged at the weekly opera and ballet
over 100-year-old Kungliga performances are held here.
Operan (see pp66–7). Every Another genre of classical opera Classical Music
season three of the best-known is staged at Folkoperan, which World-standard classical music
ballets, for example The performs the classics in Swedish is regularly performed at
Nutcracker, Swan Lake and Romeo and without elaborate scenery. Berwaldhallen (see p108). The
and Juliet, are performed to SpaghettiOperan Regina is a hall is dedicated to the great
packed houses. Thanks to the late rebuilt cinema where audiences Swedish composer Franz Berwald
choreographer Birgit Cullberg, can dine in comfort while (1796–1868) and is home to
Stockholm has also become a enjoying the opera. the Swedish Radio Symphony
noted centre for modern dance. Orchestra, which has thrived
Many established dance under musical directors such as
companies make guest Theatres and Musicals Sergiu Celibidache and Esa-Pekka
appearances at Dansens Hus (see Stockholm has a flourishing Salonen. The Swedish Radio
p71), which has taken over the theatrical life, but perform- Chorus, which is regarded as one
previous home of Stadsteatern. ances are usually in Swedish. of the world’s great a cappella
Moderna Dansteatern in the old Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern, ensembles, is based here, too.
torpedo factory on Skepps- often known simply as Concerts are also given in the hall
holmen is another important “Dramaten” (see pp74–5), is by other symphony orchestras
stage for modern dance. Sweden’s national theatre and and smaller ensembles.
has five stages. International Konserthuset (see p70) is the
and Swedish classics are home of the Royal Stockholm
Opera regularly performed here, from Philharmonic Orchestra, an
Traditional productions in their Shakespeare to Strindberg, as internationally acclaimed 100-
original language are staged well as modern foreign and piece ensemble whose season
mainly at Kungliga Operan. Swedish productions. Ingmar runs from August to May. Its
Lunchtime operas or concerts Bergman was the theatre’s programme includes a couple of
are sometimes per formed in the director from 1963–6, and he chamber music series and a jazz
Gustav III opera café. During the has returned as an acclaimed series, as well as performances
summer, major operas are guest director many times for families on Saturdays. An
presented at Drottningholms since then. annual composition festival is
Slottsteater (see pp146–49). Södra Teatern (see p130) often held every November.
Dating from the 18th century, presents modern productions Musikaliska (see p85) was
the theatre’s stage settings and despite having roots that go formerly the home of the Musical
scene-shifting machinery are back to the 19th century. Academy. Apart from July and
preserved in their original Stockholms Stadsteater, based August, its large hall is now used
condition and are still in good in Kulturhuset (see p69), has a almost daily for concerts. In
working order. All the operas widely varied programme. A addition to classical music, you
performed here are also from summer speciality is the popular can hear performances of jazz,
the 18th century, and over the series of Parkteatern productions choral music and folk music.
years the theatre has revived in several of the city’s parks with Music at the Palace is an
several unknown works by drama, dance and children’s annual summer series at the
Mozart, using instruments theatre. Judiska Teatern has a Royal Palace (see pp50–53) with
typical of that era. The theatre repertoire of new Jewish drama, two concerts every week,
is open for guided tours. as well as dance, poetry and film usually classical music but
Sweden’s oldest Rococo shows. Teater Galeasen is sometimes other styles. The
theatre, Confidencen, is located Stockholm’s avant-garde stage concerts are normally staged in
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S TO C K H O L M  177

the Hall of State or the Royal is particularly fostered at gården (see p66) every Saturday
Chapel. The majestic staircase of Skansen (see pp100–101), at 3pm. Afternoon concerts
Nationalmuseum (see pp84–5) is where fiddlers and folk dance usually take place in Storkyrkan
the setting for summer concerts, teams play a major role in the (see p55) on Saturday and Sunday
although it is closed for renova- various festivals held there (see during spring and autumn.
tion till 2018. Riddarhusmusik pp28–31). Folk music is also on
at Riddarhuset (see p60) is a series the programme at Musikaliska.
by the Stockholm Sinfonietta. Concerts are regularly given Booking Tickets
in the city’s churches, for Tickets for Stockholm’s theatres
example visitors can relax and and concert halls can be
Folk and Church Music enjoy beautiful church music booked through Ticnet; directly
Rural folk music still flourishes in the tranquil surroundings at the relevant box office; or
in the capital, and this tradition of Jacobs Kyrka in Kungsträd- ordered by telephone (see p175).

DIRECTORY
Ballet and Dance ∑ folkoperan.se Map 7 E2. Teater Galeasen
Tickets on sale from Tel 08-660 02 71. Slupskjulsvägen 32,
Dansens Hus Kulturdireckt, Sergels ∑ judiskateatern.se Skeppsholmen.
Barnhusgatan 12–14. Torg and Stockholm Map 5 E2.
Map 2 C3. Kungliga Dramatiska
Tourist Centers. Tel 08-611 00 30.
Tel 08-508 990 90. Teatern
∑ galeasen.se
∑ dansenshus.se SpaghettiOperan Nybroplan. Map 3 E4.
Regina Tel 08-667 06 80.
Tickets on sale: 2–6pm Classical Music
Tue–Fri, three hours Drottninggatan 71 A. ∑ dramaten.se
before performances Map 2 C3. Tickets on sale: noon–7pm Berwaldhallen
Sat & Sun. Tel 08-411 63 20. Tue–Sun (to 4pm Sun). Dag Hammarskjölds
∑ regina-stockholm.se Väg 3.
Moderna Tickets on sale: noon– Marionetteatern
Map 6 A2.
Dansteatern 6pm Tue–Sat. Sergels Torg.
Tel 08-784 18 00.
Slupskjulsvägen 30, Map 2 C4.
∑ berwaldhallen.se
Skeppsholmen. Theatre Tel 08-506 202 00.
Map 5 E2. ∑ kulturhusetstads Konserthuset
Tel 08-611 14 56. China-Teatern teatern.se/ Teater/ Hötorget 8.
∑ moderna Berzelii Park 9. Marionetteatern Map 2 C4.
dansteatern.se Map 3 D4. Tel 08-506 677 88.
Oscars-Teatern
Tickets on sale: from Tel 08-566 323 50. ∑ konserthuset.se
Kungsgatan 63.
Dansteatern/home page. ∑ chinateatern.se
Tickets on sale: Map 2 B4. Music at the Palace
11am–6pm Mon–Fri. Tel 08-20 50 00. The Royal Palace,
Ballet, Dance and ∑ oscarsteatern.se Slottsbacken.
Opera Cirkus Map 4 C2.
Djurgårdsslätten 43–45. Pantomimteatern
Kungliga Operan S:t Eriksgatan 84. Musikaliska
Map 6 A4.
Gustav Adolfs Torg. Map 1 C1. Tel 08-31 54 64. Nybrokajen 11.
Tel 08-660 10 20 (tickets).
Map 4 B1.
∑ cirkus.se ∑ pantomimteatern. Map 4 C1.
Tel 08-791 43 00; com Tel 08-407 16 00.
∑ ticnet.se
08-791 44 00 (tickets). Tickets on sale: 2–4pm ∑ musikaliska.com
∑ operan.se
Parkteatern
(phone). Box office only Tel 08-506 201 00. Nationalmuseum
Tickets on sale: noon–5pm open during events. Södra,
Mon–Sat (to 3pm Sat). Closed 6 Jul–10 Aug. Stockholms
Blasieholmshamnen.
Stadsteater
Opera Drottningholms Map 5 D2.
Sergels Torg.
Slottsteater Tel 08-519 543 00.
Map 2 C4.
Confidencen Drottningholm Palace, ∑ nationalmuseum.se
Tel 08-506 201 00.
Ulriksdals Slottsteater. Lovön. ∑ stadsteatern. Riddarhusmusik
Tel 08-85 70 16. Tel 08-556 931 00. stockholm.se Riddarhuset,
∑ confidencen.se ∑ dtm.se Tickets on sale: noon– Riddarhustorget 10.
Drottningholms Göta Lejon 7pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Map 4 A3.
Slottsteater Götgatan 55. Sat & Sun. Tel 08-723 39 90.
Drottningholm Palace, Map 9 D3. ∑ riddarhuset.se
Södra Teatern
Lovön. Tel 08-556 931 00. Tel 08-505 290 00.
Mosebacke Torg 1–3. Central Ticket
∑ dtm.se ∑ gotalejon.se
Map 9 D2. Agency
Tickets on sale: 11am–
Folkoperan Tel 08-531 994 90.
6pm Mon–Fri (to 4pm Sat).
Hornsgatan 72. Map 8 B2. ∑ sodrateatern.com Ticnet
Tel 08-616 07 00; Judiska Teatern Tickets on sale: Tel 077 170 70 70.
08-616 07 50 (tickets). Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 59. 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. ∑ ticnet.se
178  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Nightlife and Entertainment Operabaren is a sight in itself

with well-preserved Jugendstil
In common with most capitals, Stockholm has a rich variety decor, marble tables and leather
of nightlife and entertainment, with something for everyone. sofas. The regulars often include
Pop music is one of the country’s biggest exports, so there is authors, artists and intellectuals.
Erik’s Gondolen at the top of
no shortage of groups following in the footsteps of ABBA. Katarinahissen (see p129) offers
Top-class musical entertainment is provided on a large scale arguably the most beautiful
in Globen or on a smaller, more intimate basis in the pubs, view of Stockholm and is a
clubs and bars. The Swedish jazz scene thrives in several perfect place for a drink at sunset.
venues where live music is played nightly. It has comfortable leather
armchairs, skilled bartenders
and a relaxing atmosphere. Sky
Bar, high up in the Royal Viking
Rock and Pop around the archipelago four times Hotel, has a panoramic view of
Stockholm’s Globen is the city’s a week. The annual Stockholm the city, seen at its best after
biggest stage for rock and pop Jazz Festival hosts up-and- dark when the lights come on.
music. It attracts all the biggest coming artists as well as interna- Absolut Icebar Stockholm,
international artists as well as tional stars. See www.stockholm located in the Nordic Sea Hotel,
leading Swedish groups. Cirkus jazz.com for more details. is the world’s first permanent
and Södra Teatern (see pp 130 & ice bar. All of the interior fittings
176) are other favourite venues are made of pure ice. The bar
for rock and pop, and they stage Music Pubs can cater for up to 30 people
both musical and theatrical pro- Life in Stockholm’s pubs and bars at a time. Sturehof Bar is a
ductions in beautiful settings. has changed in recent years as a sophisticated and modern
Münchenbryggeriet, a former number of establishments have nightspot, particularly popular
brewery, also provides a great introduced live music. Irish with people from the
venue. Hard rock enthusiasts are bands often play at The Dubliner advertising and media worlds
well-catered for at Pub Anchor (see p172), and live music is also and other local night owls.
three or four times a week. performed at the Engelen and
Debaser is Sweden’s biggest Akkurat pubs. Engelen has
club scene for pop and rock. a variety of music, while the Nightclubs and Casinos
Based in three locations across accent is on rock at Akkurat. Most of Stockholm’s best
the city, the club has attracted Apart from these musical nightclubs are located around
the likes of Bob Dylan, The watering holes, there are plenty Stureplan (see pp72–3). The
Strokes, Bright Eyes and of traditional British and Irish pubs traditional disco evenings are
Sweden’s very own, The Ark. in the capital, generally with a Friday and Saturday, and on
Tele2 Arena is a state-of-the- wide choice of beer and whisky other days of the week they are
art arena that opened in 2013 and snack meals (see pp172–3). often hired by various clubs
and has since hosted two of the providing particular styles of
top football clubs in Sweden. music. The nightlife scene is
Artists such as The Rolling Bars changing all the time as new
Stones, Aerosmith and Avicii The best bars are usually found in clubs come and go. Café Opera,
have also performed here. hotels and restaurants, but Stockholm’s most historic
those in the latter are often noisier. international-class nightclub, is
The most fashionable tend to located to the rear of Kungliga
Jazz Music have a long queue, supervised Operan (see pp66–7). It has a
A wide choice of jazz can be by a doorman. For a quieter mixed clientele of both the
found in Stockholm. Fasching atmosphere with comfortable young and trendy and a more
Jazzklubb has an international armchairs, hotel bars are the best soberly dressed older
reputation for good music with bet. The minimum age for generation. Sturecompagniet is
performances virtually every day buying alcohol is 18, a large disco on several floors
of the week. Another classic jazz and young customers must be which also has a rock bar at
spot is Gamla Stan’s Stampen, prepared to show proof of age. street level. Fasching Jazzklubb
which attracts a rather older The Cadier Bar in the has soul from the 1960s and
clientele. Nalen holds frequent Grand Hôtel (see pp81 & 160) 1970s on Saturdays. Spy Bar is
jazz events, and usually provides undoubtedly has the most the place to rub shoulders with
live music to dance to on Sundays. elegant clientele, and this is Swedish celebrities and inter-
Glenn Miller Café has a cosy where the rich and famous stay. national artists on tour. However,
atmosphere, with jazz nightly From the verandah there is a fine it is often crowded and a member-
from Monday to Saturday. During view of the Royal Palace and the ship card may be necessary.
the summer the vintage steam- archipelago boats, and in the Ambassaduer is another “in” place
boat SS Blidösund (see p145) background gentle music is with a fashion-conscious clientele.
operates special jazz cruises played on the white grand piano. The younger generation enjoy
 E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S TO C K H O L M  179

dancing to a variety of music artists. Wallmans Salonger their own language. Films in
at Debaser Medis. In the city offers musical entertainment languages other than English
centre is Casino Cosmopol, provided by the waiters and are usually screened at
Stockholm’s first casino. waitresses along with the food. Zita, and Sture is also a good
venue for cineasts. There are
both classic cinemas such as
Cabarets Film Rigoletto, showing quality
Good food and top-class Films are not dubbed into international drama, and
entertainment are on the Swedish, so non-Swedish multi-screen complexes
menu at Hamburger Börs, speaking visitors can more including Filmstaden Sergel,
which features cabaret shows often than not go to a cinema which screens most of the
performed by leading Swedish and enjoy a film that is in current Hollywood repertoire.

DIRECTORY
Rock and Pop Glenn Miller Café Bars Debaser Medis
Brunnsgatan 21 A. Medborgarplatsen 8.
Cirkus Map 3 D3. Absolut Icebar Map 9 D3.
Djurgårdsslätten 43. Tel 08-10 03 22. Stockholm Tel 08-694 79 00.
Map 6 A4. Open 5pm–1am Mon– Vasaplan 4. Map 2 B4. Open 5pm–midnight
Tel 08-660 10 20. Thu, 5pm–2am Fri & Sat, Tel 08-505 635 20. Mon–Sat (from 4pm Fri).
6pm–1am Sun. Cadier Bar Fasching Jazzklubb
Debaser Music from 8pm. Grand Hôtel, Södra Kungsgatan 63.
Medborgarplatsen 8. Map 2 B4.
Nalen Blasieholmshamnen 8.
Map 9 D3. Tel 08-20 00 06.
Regeringsgatan 74. Map 4 C1.
Karl Johans Torg 1. Tel 08-679 35 00. Open Soul club:
Map 3 D3. midnight–4am Sat.
Map 4 C4. Tel 08-505 292 01. Erik’s Gondolen
Hornstulls Strand 4. Spy Bar
Stampen Stadsgården 6.
Map 4 C3. Birger Jarlsgatan 20.
Stora Nygatan 5. Map 4 C5.
Tel 08-462 98 60. Map 3 D3.
Map 4 B3. Tel 08-20 57 93. Tel 08-641 70 90. Tel 08-545 076 00.
Globen Open 5pm–1am Mon & Operabaren Open 10pm–5am
Globentorget 2. Tue, 5pm–2am Wed–Fri, Kungsträdgården. Wed–Sat.
Tel 0771 31 00 00. 3km (2 2pm–2am Sat. Map 4 B1. Sturecompagniet
miles) S of Stockholm. SS Blidösund Tel 08-676 58 00. Sturegatan 4. Map 3 D3.
Skeppsbron 10. Tel 08-545 076 10.
Münchenbryggeriet Sky Bar
Map 4 C2. Tel 08-24 30 90. Open 11pm–5am
Torkel Knutssonsg 2. Vasagatan 1.
Open mid-May–Oct: Thu–Sat.
Map 8 B1. Map 2 B4.
boat departing at 6:30pm Tel 08-506 540 00.
Tel 08-658 20 00; Mon–Thu. Cabarets
for tickets: 0771 707070. Sturehof Bar Hamburger Börs
Pub Anchor
Music Pubs Stureplan 2. Jakobsgatan 6.
Map 3 D4. Map 3 D5.
Sveavägen 90. Akkurat Tel 08-440 57 30. Tel 08-787 85 00.
Map 2 C2. Hornsgatan 18. Map 8 C2.
Tel 08-15 20 00. Tel 08-644 00 15. Nightclubs and Wallmans Salonger
Open 3pm–3am daily. Open 11am–1am Tue–Fri, Casinos Teatergatan 3.
11am–midnight Mon, Map 3 E5.
Södra Teatern 3pm–1am Sat, 6pm–1am Ambassaduer Tel 0771-13 43 00.
Mosebacke Torg 1–3. Sun. Kungsgatan 18.
Map 9 D2. Map 3 D4. Film
Tel 08-531 994 90. The Dubliner Tel 08-545 076 00.
Holländargatan 1. Filmstaden Sergel
Open 10pm–4am Hötorget. Map 2 C4.
Tele2 Arena Map 2 C3. Tel 08-679 77 07.
Fri & Sat. Tel 08-562 600 00.
Arenaslingan 14. Open 4pm–midnight
Tel 07-131 00 00. 3km Mon & Tue, 4pm–1am Café Opera Rigoletto
(2 miles) S of Stockholm. Wed & Thu, 2pm–3am Operahuset, Kungsgatan 16.
Fri, noon–3am Sat, Kungsträdgården. Map 2 B4.
Jazz 1–10pm Sun. Map 4 B1. Tel 08-562 600 00.
Music from 10pm daily. Tel 08-676 58 07.
Sture
Fasching Jazzklubb Open 10pm–3am Birger Jarlsgatan 41.
Engelen
Kungsgatan 63. Wed–Sun. Map 3 D3.
Kornhamnstorg 59 B.
Map 2 B4. Map 4 B4. Casino Cosmopol Tel 08-562 948 80.
Tel 08-20 00 06. Tel 08-20 10 92. Kungsgatan 65. Zita
Open 6pm–midnight Open 5pm–midnight Mon Map 2 B4. Birger Jarlsgatan 37.
Mon–Thu & Sun, & Tue, 5pm–3am Wed– Tel 08-781 88 00. Map 3 D3.
6pm–4am Fri–Sat. Sat, 5pm–12:30am Sun. Open 1pm–5am daily. Tel 08-23 20 20.
180  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
As a city built around water and with the around 80 golf courses are open to visitors,
countryside reaching into the centre, as well as well-planned jogging and cycle
Stockholm is ideally positioned for all kinds of tracks. Outdoor swimming pools are popular
open-air pursuits. The great outdoors plays an on hot summer days, and in winter long-
important role in the Swedish lifestyle, and distance skating between the islands and
the capital offers a plethora of activities cross-country and downhill skiing are the
throughout the year – for the energetic and things to do.
not so energetic – from walking, cycling and In many cases, it is simple to make your
ice-skating to fishing, skiing and hot-air own contacts, but the Stockholm Visitor
ballooning. In spring, summer and autumn Centre (see p191) will be able to advise you.

Skansen open-air museum

(see pp100–101) or the Gröna
Lund amusement park (see p97),
both suitable for the whole
family, providing a day out in
the open air.
Djurgården has plenty of
cycle paths, and bicycles can
be hired from Cykel Moped-
uthyrningen or Stockholm
City Bikes (see p205), which has
locations all over Stockholm.
Roller-blades can also be hired
near the bridge.
Cyclists planning to take
a longer tour should visit Visit
Stockholm and ask to be put in
touch with the Cykelfrämjandet
Hagaparken (see pp124–5), an inviting area for exercise and recreation cycling organization.
Jogging, Walks parks and modern shopping
and Cycling malls. A walk in Stockholm Horse Riding
It can be both practical and always takes you close to the Several riding schools near
rewarding to take some exercise water or some unusual sight. the city centre, such as
while exploring the capital. The organized walks in the city Stockholms Ridhus, offer
Everything in the city centre is are usually conducted in lessons. For those who prefer
within easy walking distance, Swedish, but there are also tours to discover Stockholm’s
including major sights, beautiful of Gamla Stan with English- surrounding areas, tours on
speaking guides. Contact Visit Icelandic ponies are operated
Stockholm for advice on a route. from quite a few stables.
Even if you want to head Rundemars Gård hires out
out of the city centre, there horses to experienced riders
is no need to travel far. The to explore the Tyresö nature
No. 7 streetcar goes out to reserve, southeast of the city,
Djurgården, where you can after an initial briefing.
have a walk or jog along the
shores, through the avenues
under the oak trees, or over Water Sports
green fields. Walking paths There are excellent oppor-
along the city’s waterfronts tunities for water sports. Canoes,
(see pp42–3) provide both rowing boats, pedalos and
good routes and stunning larger boats for longer tours, can
views. There are many floodlit be hired from Tvillingarnas
jogging tracks, and plenty of Båtuthyrning near Djurgårdsbron.
fun-run events to choose A good area for canoeing is the
from (see pp28–31). canal near Djurgården (see
Fishing at Blasieholmskajen in the centre of Those who prefer to move pp86–101), where Djurgårds-
the city at a gentler pace can head for brons Sjöcafé hires out canoes.
 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES  181

Swimming
DIRECTORY
During the summer there are
plenty of outdoor swimming Horse Riding
pools to choose from. They Rundemars Gård
include Eriksdalsbadet in Rundmars Gård, Tyresö.
Södermalm, Kampementsbadet Tel 073-727 16 85.
at Gärdet and Smedsuddsbadet ∑ rundemarsgard.com
at Rålambshov Park Beach. There
Stockholms Ridhus
are several good places for a Storängsvägen 29. Map 3 F1.
swim along the Kungsholmen Tel 0703-10 29 30.
shores of Riddarfjärden. And Open 1–2pm Mon–Fri.
on Långholmen there are ∑ stockholmsridhus.se
both sandy beaches or rocks Outdoor swimming in Stockholm
to swim from (see p134). Water Sports
For a completely different centre near the Royal Palace. and Fishing
bathing experience, try the Suitable tackle can be hired at Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé
Japanese Yasuragi at Hassel- Naturkompaniet. Sportfiskarna Galävarvsvägen 2.
udden. For indoor pools, try Stockholm can provide Tel 08-660 57 57.
Centralbadet (see p71) or information on fishing in ∑ sjocafeet.se
Sturebadet (see p73). and around Stockholm.
Naturkompaniet
Outdoor tennis courts are S:t Paulsgatan 2–4. Map 8 C2.
available at several places, in- Tel 08-20 03 42.
Golf cluding Kungliga Lawn Tennis-
Golfers will find about 80 golf hallen, where the Stockholm Sportfiskarna Stockholm
Tel 08-410 806 80
courses within easy reach of Open ATP indoor tournament
(10am–3pm Tue & Wed).
the city centre. The closest, is held every November.
such as Djursholms Golfklubb, You can also go scuba-diving Tvillingarnas Båtuthyrning
are in delightful settings. around Stockholm. Contact Visit Strandvägen 27.
The courses are popular, Stockholm for details of diving Tel 08-660 37 14.
and advance bookings are schools and equipment hire. Swimming
recommended. Golf information Ice-skaters are in their element
is available on Stockholm once the open waters of the Eriksdalsbadet
tourist board’s website archipelago have frozen over. Hammarby Slussv. 8. Map 9 D5.
(www.visitstockholm.com). Meanwhile, the artificial rink Tel 08-508 402 58.
at Kungsträdgården is open Kampementsbadet
throughout the winter, and Sandhamnsgatan (Gärdet).
Other Activities hires out skates. Tel 08-508 411 78.
Brightly coloured hot-air balloons The outdoor activities orga- Open 18 May–18 Aug.
hovering over the city are a com- nization Friluftsfrämjandet Yasuragi
mon sight in the evening. Several provides information on skating Hasseludden Konferens & Yasuragi.
companies operate charter trips and skiing in the area. @ 35-min journey from Slussen.
in balloons. You can book via Visitors with disablities can Tel 08-747 64 00. Open
Visit Stockholm or directly with find out more about the avail- 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–5pm
a company such as Far & Flyg. ability of outdoor pursuits by Sat & Sun. ∑ yasuragi.se
Game fishing for salmon and contacting De Handikappades
trout is possible right in the city Riksförbund (see p191).
Golf
Djursholms Golfklubb
Hagbardsvägen, Djursholm.
Tel 08-544 964 50.
∑ dgk.nu

Other Activities
Far & Flyg
Gröndalvägen 38.
Tel 08-645 77 00.
∑ farochflyg.se
Kungliga Lawn Tennishallen
Lidingövägen.
Tel 08-459 15 00.
∑ kltk.se
Friluftsfrämjandet
Tel 08-447 44 40.
∑ friluftsframjandet.se
One of Stockholm’s many golf courses
182  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN STOCKHOLM
Stockholm is worth visiting for the shopping Gamla Stan is a good place for handicrafts and
alone. All the best shops in the central area unusual knick-knacks. Södermalm and Vasastan
are within easy walking distance and they have antiques and second-hand shops.
stock virtually everything anyone could want. Cameras, mobile telephones, furs, children’s
There are plenty of small boutiques for clothing, toys and Swedish glass are cheaper in
fashion and interiors, as well as antiques Sweden than in most other countries. No
shops, luxury international designer outlets expedition is complete without a visit to one of
and well-stocked department stores. the city’s splendid market halls, which sell
Shopping is good all over the city. Exclusive Swedish delicacies including reindeer and
shops can be found in fashionable Östermalm. moose meat, caviar and cloudberries.

Opening Times or-return basis, providing that

Most shops usually open at this is noted on the receipt.
10am and close at 6pm,
although many in the city
centre remain open until 7pm. Value Added Tax
Most shops are open until 2pm Value added tax (“moms” in
on Saturdays, and the major Swedish) is charged on all
department stores stay open items except daily newspapers.
until 5pm. Large stores, The VAT rate is 25%, except on
shopping malls and a number food, for which the rate is only
of shops in central Stockholm 12%. VAT is always included in
are open on Sundays. Market the total price.
halls are closed on Sundays and
public holidays. Larger super-
markets are open daily until 8pm. Tax-Free Shopping
Residents of countries out Biblioteksgatan, an attractive shopping
side the European Union are street in Stockholm
Payment entitled to a refund of the
All the main credit cards and VAT they have paid on their Sales
travellers’ cheques are accepted purchases. Tax-free shopping Twice a year Stockholm’s shops
in most shops. If you pay by with Global Refund gives visitors and department stores have
card, you may be asked for a cash refund of 15–18 per cent sales with reduced prices on
proof of identity; many shops on their departure from the EU. clothing, shoes and other
require a PIN number. Goods Look for the “Tax-free shopping” fashion goods. Sales are
can be exchanged, if you sign. Global Refund is at all indicated by the rea sign.
produce the receipt. Purchases departure points, including The year’s first sales start
can usually be made on a sale- Arlanda Airport. after Christmas and continue
throughout January. The
second sales period lasts
from late June to the end
of July.

Shopping Centres and

Department Stores
Stockholm’s best-known
superstore is IKEA, which has
become a popular tourist
attraction in its own right. It
sells not just furniture but also
everything else for the home,
and all at attractive prices. The
textiles section is particularly
good, as well as the kitchenware
and porcelain departments.
IKEA’s store is located outside
the city but is easy to reach
NK, Stockholm’s most exclusive department store by a free shuttle bus from
 SHOPPING IN STOCKHOLM  183

DIRECTORY
Shopping Centres and
Department Stores
Cervera
Svavägen 24 .
Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-10 45 30.
∑ cervera.se
Fältöversten
Karlaplan 13.
Nordiska Kristall, a major outlet for Swedish glass in Stockholm Map 3 F3.
Tel 08-696 33 69.
Regeringsgatan 13 to Kungens Åhlens department store in ∑ faltoverstencentrum.se
Kurva, hourly on weekdays from City, Vasastaden, Kungsholmen
10am to 5pm. and Östermalm, as well as Gallerian
Hamngatan 37.
Another well-known store some suburbs.
Map 3 D4.
is the fashion house H&M There are several indoor
Tel 073-531 94 96.
(Hennes & Mauritz), which has shopping malls. Gallerian on ∑ gallerian.se
branches in many European Hamngatan is the largest, and
cities and several outlets in the prices are lower than in the H&M
Stockholm. H&M stocks the elegant Sturegallerian near Hamngatan 22.
latest fashions at low prices. Stureplan with its many trendy Map 3 D4.
It has its own designers and boutiques. There are also Tel 08-524 635 30.
makes clothing for women, shopping centres in most Sergels Torg 12.
men, teenagers and children. suburbs where nearly all the Map 2 C4.
The shops also sell accessories, retail chains are represented. Tel 08-796 54 46.
∑ hm.com
jewellery, underwear, perfume
and cosmetics. IKEA
Nordiska Kompaniet (NK) on Markets Kungens Kurva, Skärholmen.
Hamngatan is Stockholm’s A traditional Christmas market Tel 08-744 83 60.
leading department store, is held at Skansen (see pp100– Järfälla, Folkungavägen 50.
where many well-known names 101) every Sunday in December. Tel 08-795 40 00.
in fashion and cosmetics have Stortorget in Gamla Stan (see ∑ ikea.se
their own shops. NK also stocks p56) also has a delightful market NK
Swedish-designed products, at Christmas. Hamngatan 18–20.
jewellery, handicrafts and Vegetables, fruit and flowers Map 3 D4.
souvenirs as well as cameras, are sold from Monday to Tel 08-762 80 00.
films, books and CDs. Friday at Hötorget (see p70), ∑ nk.se
PUB on Hötorget is another Östermalmstorg (see p73)
PUB
established department store and Medborgarplatsen (see
Hötorget. Map 3 C4.
with a wide selection of goods. p133). Street stalls along Tel 08-789 19 30.
The Cervera boutique chain Drottninggatan and around ∑ pub.se
has a good choice of table Sergels Torg sell watches, clocks,
coverings and decorations, toys and other knick-knacks. Sturegallerian
both classic and modern. Stockholm’s flea market, Grev Turegatan 9. Map 3 D4.
Most shopping items can be Skärholmens Loppmarknad, Tel 08-453 50 00.
∑ sturegallerian.se
purchased inexpensively at offers a wide variety of clothes,
practical objects and bric-a-brac Åhléns
for sale. Klarabergsgatan 50. Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-676 60 00.
Fridhemsplan. Map 1 B2.
Wines and Spirits Tel 08-617 97 00.
The only shops selling Odenplan. Map 2 B2.
alcohol in Sweden are run Tel 08-728 53 00.
by Systembolaget, the State ∑ ahlens.com
monopoly chain. They are open
Monday to Friday 10am–6pm Markets
(some open on Saturdays Skärholmens Loppmarknad
10am–3pm, but not on a P-huset. Skärholmen.
public holiday weekend). The Tel 08-710 00 60.
minimum age for buying Open 11am–6pm Mon–Fri,
Chandeliers and other treasures at one of alcohol at Systembolaget 10am–4pm Sat, 11am–4pm Sun.
Arsenalsgatan’s fine antiques shops shops is 20 (see also p191).
184  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Stockholm

The Dala wooden horse must be the most typical Swedish
souvenir. But it is facing strong competition from the moose,
which has become a symbol for a country with vast tracts of
unspoilt countryside. The Swedes love the great outdoors, so
there are plenty of shops selling top-class sporting equipment.
Swedish glass and crystal are renowned around the world.
Orrefors and Kosta Boda are just two of several glassworks
producing both classic and modern glassware. Educational toys
in natural materials are a Swedish speciality, as are clogs, which
Hand-painted clogs
can be found in many shoe shops.

Handicrafts and Design

Modern Swedish design is a familiar concept in
many households worldwide, even for simple
everyday items (see pp40–41). Handicrafts have
a long tradition in Sweden, and contemporary
designers often use wrought-iron work,
weaving, pottery and woodcarving.

Swedish Glass
Hand-blown sets of Dala Horse and Cockerel
glassware are made in Originally the brightly painted Dala horses and
Sweden’s glassworks, as cockerels were toys carved from left-over
well as artistic crystal fragments of wood. Later the horse became a
creations and beautiful national symbol and is sold in many variants.
objects for everyday use.

Nobel glass carafe from Orrefors Traditional

by Gunnar Cyrén snaps glasses Tray with design by Josef Cheese slicer and knife
Frank, Svenskt Tenn by Michael Björnstierna

Designer Objects
The larger department stores often
commission well-known designers for
porcelain, glass, textiles and household
items, which make highly desirable gifts.
Mama, a humorous clothes hanger

Children’s Toys
Colourful wooden children’s toys from Brio are
Crux rug by Pia Wallén worldwide favourites. Educational picture books,
games and puzzles are all excellent gifts for children.
 SHOPPING IN STOCKHOLM  185

Outdoor Gear Hand Knits

Many Swedes enjoy outdoor pursuits such Caps and gloves with
as fishing, hunting, sailing, golf, camping attractive designs, known
and all types of winter sports, so there are as lovikka, are made from
many well-equipped sports shops around. a special wool that gives
Unique items include Lapp handicrafts good protection in cold
beautifully made from reindeer horn or skin. or wet conditions.

Reindeer Skin Rucksack

Rucksacks are popular for both
adults and children. This exclusive
model is made in Lapland.
Drinking vessel
in carved wood

Spinning Reel and Lures

Lapp Handicrafts ABU-Garcia makes top-quality
A hunting knife with a sheath of reindeer fishing tackle perfect for
horn, or a kåsa, a drinking vessel carved in Sweden’s long coastline,
birch, are not only attractive but useful countless lakes and rivers with
when out walking in the wild. their rich and varied fishing.

Swedish Delicacies
Popular preserves are made from wild berries such as
bitter lingonberries (for meatballs) or sweet cloudberries
(served with whipped cream). Herring, crispbread and
ginger biscuits can be bought in all groceries, and sweets
are sold loose. Snaps miniatures come in gift packs.

Lingonberry preserve Cloudberry jam

Pickled Herring
Pickled herring should be enjoyed with new
potatoes cooked with dill, chopped chives and
crème fraîche. Versions flavoured with mustard, dill
or other herbs or spices are also available.

Swedish snaps gift-pack miniatures

“Raspberry boat” candy Salt liquorice Crispbread Box of ginger biscuits

186  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

Sport and Leisure

Where to Shop in Stockholm The Swedes devote a lot of time
Clothing from all the well-known international fashion houses to outdoor sports and activities.
can be found in Stockholm, and many have their own shops. Naturkompaniet and Peak
If you want something rather different, it is worth seeking out Performance have an exclusive
selection of sportswear and
the creations of younger Swedish fashion designers. Swedish equipment. Stadium and
interior design is famous for its clean lines, functionalism and Alewalds have a varied
the use of pale wood, and Stockholm is a paradise for anyone choice of sports clothing and
interested in design. Handicrafts are of a high quality. equipment at attractive prices.
Leisurewear and sports goods offer excellent value for money. Equipment and exclusive
clothing for hunting or fishing
can be bought at Walter Borg.
Fashion for interior decoration, with
Stockholm’s top places for fashion both modern and classic
are in the “golden triangle” designs. Nordiska Galleriet has Souvenirs and
bounded by Stureplan, Nybroplan exclusive modern furniture and Handicrafts
and Norrmalmstorg. Clothing at decoration items, while Georg Glasses for snaps, silver
more moderate prices can be Jensen specializes in silver. jewellery, hand-painted clogs,
bought around Sergels Torg. Kaolin, Nutida Svenskt Silver, Lapp (Same) crafts, hand-knitted
If you are looking for Swedish Blås&Knåda and Galleri woollen gloves and caps, hand-
designers, NK has a selection of Metallum stage exhibitions and made candles, traditional
clothing created by younger sell Swedish-designed products. Christmas decorations and
designers as well as mainstream Hand-picked furnishings from wrought-iron products can all
local products. Classic men’s floor to ceiling can be found at be bought in the main depart-
clothing of high quality is Garbo Interior. Orrefors Kosta ment stores. Alternatively you
designed by Oscar Jacobsson, Boda and Nordiska Kristall can go to the Gamla Stan
while Stenström shirts are sold both have a wide choice of shops such as Handkraft Swea.
in department stores and the Swedish glassware, which can Svensk Hemslöjd and the
more elegant menswear also be found at the various various museum gift shops
boutiques. Björn Borg has his department stores. are also good places to shop.
own shops selling men’s and Visitors to Skansen (see pp100–
women’s clothing, underwear, 101) can buy handicrafts made
per fume and accessories. Antiques in its shops. Nordic Souvenirs
J Lindeberg produces unusual A large number of antiques shops sells Swedish handicrafts and
fashions for the daring man, can be found along Odengatan, quality souvenirs.
while fashion-conscious young Upplandsgatan and Roslagsgatan
people shop at Sneakersnstuff. in Vasastan. Gamla Stan also has
The designer Filippa K many shops offering collectables. Books
produces smart clothing for Shops selling art, silver and Photography books, cookery
trendy women. Anna Holtblad porcelain of a more exclusive books, books on Swedish
has a good selection of stylish variety are on Arsenalsgatan on design and children’s books
women’s garments, while Thalia Blasieholmen, and also around make good souvenirs to take
in Östermalm has a good range Östermalmstorg. Södermalm has home. Apart from the NK
of exclusive party outfits. small shops selling bric-a-brac. Bookshop and at other
department stores, Hedengrens
Bokhandel has a large foreign-
Design and Interior Music and Multimedia languages department. The
Decoration Many Swedish pop bands English Bookshop has a
The city centre, Östermalm and now have an international good selection of books on
Hornsgatan in Södermalm have reputation. Exciting new Stockholm and Sweden in
a number of interior decoration talents continue to find their English, as well as a range of
shops selling the products of way into the charts, and the international newspapers.
young designers and artists. latest products can often be
To see the latest on offer, visit bought in the record shops
DesignTorget, where young before they become available Toys and Baby
designers display their work. outside Sweden. Apart from Equipment
R.O.O.M on Kungsholmen, pop and rock, Sweden has It is worth buying high-quality
Asplund in Östermalm and a long folk-music tradition, baby prams and pushchairs
Norrgavel in City are just a few as well as many skilled jazz produced by Emmaljunga and
of the most up-to-date shops, musicians and opera singers. baby equipment by Babybjörn.
and they all have a good Pet Sounds has a wide Babyland and Bonti have a
selection of products. Svenskt selection of CDs, as do the wide selection of these and
Tenn is the city’s oldest shop large department stores. other well-made products for
 SHOPPING IN STOCKHOLM  187

children. Brio’s wooden toys and Swedish Delicacies delicious culinary souvenirs.
other attractive toys are also The capital has three superb The food sections of the
favourite presents. Bulleribock market halls: Östermalms- major department stores sell
and BR Leksaker offer a wide hallen, Hötorgshallen and tinned herrings, lingonberry
choice. Practical children’s Söderhallarna. Delicacies or cloudberry jam, crispbread,
clothing can be found at on sale include salmon, bleak gingerbread and sweets, which
Polarn och Pyret or at the roe, smoked eel and smoked also make good presents for the
larger department stores. reindeer meat, which all make gastronomes back home.

DIRECTORY
Fashion Garbo Interior Music and Books
Brahegatan 21. Map 3 E2. Multimedia
Anna Holtblad The English
Grev Turegatan 13. Tel 08-661 60 08. Bookshop
Pet Sounds
Map 3 E4. Georg Jensen Lilla Nygatan 11.
Skånegatan 53. Map 9 E3.
Tel 08-545 022 20. Map 4 B3.
Birger Jarlsgatan 13. Tel 08-702 97 98. Tel 08-790 55 10.
Björn Borg Map 3 D4.
Sergelg 12. Tel 08-545 040 80. Sport and Leisure Hedengrens
Map 2 C4. Bokhandel
Tel 08-21 70 40. Kaolin Alewalds Stureplan 4. Map 3 D4.
Hornsgatan 50. Kungsgatan 32. Tel 08-611 51 28.
Filippa K
Grev Turegatan 18. Map 8 C2. Map 6 D3. NK Bookshop
Map 3 E4. Tel 08-644 46 00. Tel 08-21 90 00. Hamngatan 18–20.
Tel 08-545 882 56. Map 3 D4.
Konsthantverkarna Naturkompaniet Tel 08-762 80 00.
J Lindeberg Södermalmstorg 4. Sveavägen 62.
Biblioteksgatan 6. Map 2 C3. Toys and Baby
Map 9 D2, 4 B5.
Map 3 D4. Equipment
Tel 08-611 03 70. Tel 08-24 30 02.
Tel 08-400 500 41.
Kungsgatan 26. Babyland
NK Nordiska Galleriet
Map 3 D4. Karlbergsvägen 40.
Hamngatan 18–20. Nybrogatan 11.
Tel 08-24 19 96. Map 2 A2.
Map 3 D4. Map 3 E4. Tel 08-555 912 10.
Tel 08-762 80 00. Tel 08-442 83 60. Peak Performance
Bonti
Sneakersnstuff Biblioteksgatan 18.
Nordiska Kristall Norrtullsgatan 33.
Åsögatan 124. Map 3 D4. Map 2 B2.
Tel 08-743 03 22. Kungsgatan 9.
Tel 08-611 34 00. Tel 08-30 69 16.
Map 3 D4.
Thalia Stadium BR Leksaker
Tel 08-10 43 72.
Karlavägen 62. Map 3 E3. Gallerian, Hamngatan 37.
Sergelgatan 8. Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-660 54 30. Norrgavel Map 3 D4.
Tel 08-14 09 90.
Birger Jarlsgatan 27. Tel 08-545 154 40.
Design and Walter Borg
Map 3 D3.
Decoration Kungsgatan 57.
Bulleribock
Tel 08-545 220 50. Sveavägen 104.
Asplund Map 2 C4. Map 2 C2.
Sibylleg 31. Map 3 E3. Nutida Svenskt Silver Tel 08-14 38 65. Tel 08-673 61 21.
Tel 08-662 52 84. Arsenalsgatan 3.
Polarn och Pyret
Blås&Knåda
Map 3 D4. Souvenirs and Gallerian,
Hornsgatan 26. Tel 08-611 67 18. Handicrafts Hamngatan 35.
Map 4 B5. Orrefors Kosta Boda Map 3 D4.
Tel 08-642 77 67. Handkraft Swea
Tel 08-411 22 47.
Birger Jarlsgatan 15. Västerlånggatan 24.
DesignTorget Map 2 C2.
Kulturhuset,
Map 9 D1, 4 B3. Swedish
Sergels Torg 3.
Tel 08-611 91 15. Tel 08-20 06 36. Delicacies
Map 2 C4. R.O.O.M Nordic Souvenirs Östermalmshallen
Tel 08-21 91 50. PUB, Plan 03, Högtorget. Hamngatan 27. Östermalmstorg.
Götgatan 31. Map 3 C4. Map 3 D4. Map 3 E4.
Map 9 D2. Tel 08-692 50 00. Tel 08-24 24 70. Hötorgshallen
Tel 08-644 16 78.
Hötorget. Map 2 C4.
Svenskt Tenn Svensk Hemslöjd
Galleri Metallum Söderhallarna
Hornsgatan 30. Strandvägen 5. Norrlandsgatan 20.
Medborgarplatsen.
Map 4 B5. Map 3 E4. Map 3 D4.
Map 9 D3.
Tel 08-640 13 23. Tel 08-670 16 00. Tel 08-23 21 15.
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

Practical Information 190–197

Getting to Stockholm 198–199
Getting Around
Stockholm 200–205
Stockholm Street Finder 206–215
190  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Over the years, Stockholm has become are happy to help tourists. The city’s
one of the most popular tourist dest- official tourism organization, the
inations in Scandinavia. Its bustling cruise- Stockholm Visitors Board, provides an
ship terminals and its full event calendar excellent range of services. Stock holm
bring thousands of tourists to the city is a small capital and is generally safe,
each year, while many more come to but it still has its share of pickpockets.
experience the city’s cultural and historical It is therefore wise to take care in the
sites. It is easy to be a foreign visitor in busy shopping areas and when travelling
the city, not least because most Swedes around the city at night.

Visas and Passports

Citizens of virtually all
countries can enter Sweden
without a visa. Since 2001,
passports are not needed
by visitors from European
countries that have signed
the Schengen agreement,
as long as they are entering
directly from a Schengen
member country. However,
to enter or depart from a
Schengen country, visitors
must carry a government-
issued national ID card.
Visitors arriving from outside
the Schengen region must
carry a valid passport.
Visitors are advised to
check their visa and passport Inside the Stockholm Visitor Centre at Sergels Torg 5
requirements with their
local Swedish consulate or culture and recreation. The site Tickets for theatres,
embassy prior to travelling. also contains links to other concerts and sporting
useful travel information. events can be bought at
Another good source of the venue box offices, at
Tourist Information information is the Museums in the SVB or through ticket
Stockholm’s official tourist Stockholm website, which agencies such as Ticnet
information organization is provides an excellent overview (see p174).
the Stockholm Visitors Board of the city’s museums and links
(SVB). The organization’s to their respective websites.
website can answer most Language and Etiquette
commonly asked questions Visitors will find that English
and allows visitors to check Opening Hours and is widely spoken. This is
the calendar of special events Admission Charges especially true among hotel
and purchase tickets. It also Most museums and other sights and restaurant staff, as well
provides web addresses for are open between 10 or 11am as most shop employees.
the most important sights. and 5 or 6pm all year round, The Swedes are usually
Visitors to Stockholm and with extended opening hours in friendly and glad to help
Sweden can also find a lot the summer. Some museums foreign tourists. The use of
of useful information in are closed on Mondays. first names is the norm, and
different languages at the Entrance fees are generally “Hej!” (pronounced “Hay!”) is
Arrival Guides website. between 50 and 100 kr, a familiar greeting.
Hotel staff are usually well with discounts available Casual clothing is acceptable
informed and can answer for students, children and almost everywhere, including
most questions related to senior citizens. restaurants and most theatres.
sightseeing in the city. Visit Shops are generally open Tips are always included in
What’s On Stockholm’s website from 10am to 6pm during restaurant prices, but it is usual
or their Facebook page for the week and from 10 or 11am to round up the bill by up to
information about events, to 4 or 5pm at weekends. 10 per cent for good service.
Umbrellas, Sturegallerian shopping mall
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  191

Alcohol and Smoking allocated areas to separate DIRECTORY

Swedish policy towards alcohol them from allergy sufferers. Car
is restrictive. Wines, beers (above drivers with a disability permit Tourist Information
3.5 per cent) and spirits can be from their home country can Arlanda Visitor Centre
bought only in the shops run by park in designated areas. Arrival Hall Terminal 5,
the state monopoly Systembo- Disabled visitors can obtain Arlanda Airport, 190 45
laget. They are open Monday to information in English before Stockholm-Arlanda.
Friday from 10am to 6pm, and they travel from De Handikap- Tel 010-109 10 00.
most are open on Saturdays from pades Riksförbund.
Arrival Guides
10am to 3pm. The minimum
∑ arrivalguides.com
age for buying liquor in these
shops is 20, and you maybe Travelling with Children Museums in Stockholm
required to show proof of age. Families with children will find it ∑ stockholmmuseum.com
Most restaurants and pubs easy to travel around Stockholm. Stockholm Visitor
stop selling alcohol at 1am, The under 20s travel at a Centre
but some city-centre bars reduced rate on all forms of Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg 5.
stay open until 5am. The public transport, while children Map 2 C4.
minimum age for buying under 7 do not need a ticket Tel 08-508 285 08.
liquor in restaurants is 18, with when travelling with a paying ∑ visitstockholm.com
some establishments setting passenger. Children between
higher age minimums. the ages of 7–11 travel free Travellers with
The maximum permitted with a paying passenger Special Needs
blood alcohol level is only from Fridays at noon through De Handikappades
0.2 mg per mil, so drinking is to midnight on Sunday. In Riksförbund
effectively banned for drivers. addition, at all times, one adult Tel 08-685 80 00.
Bans on smoking are wide- may accompany a baby or ∑ dhr.se
spread in Sweden. Smoking is toddler in a pram on city
not permitted in public places, buses free of charge. Embassies and
including all forms of public Children are warmly welcome Consulates
transport, bars and restaurants. in Stockholm’s many cafés and
United Kingdom
Customers wishing to purchase restaurants, and most museums
Skarpögatan 6–8. Map 6 B2.
tobacco must be over 18, and and cinemas offer reduced Tel 08-671 30 00.
establishments will often ask tickets for children (see p175). ∑ gov.uk/government/world/
for ID as proof of age. sweden
Responsible Tourism United States
Travellers with Stockholm is known for its efforts Dag Hammarskjölds väg 31.
Special Needs to reduce pollution and improve
Map 6 B2.
Tel 08-783 53 00.
Under Swedish law, public areas the level of environmental
∑ sweden.usembassy.gov
have to be accessible to awareness among its inhabitants.
physically or visually disabled The city has established over
people, and Stockholm is well 700 km (435 miles) of cycle lanes,
ahead of many other cities in while all inner city buses and Recycling containers for cans
this respect. The Tunnelbana trains run on renewable fuels. and plastics are found in public
network is adapted for disabled Greenhouse emissions have areas throughout the city and
passengers, and most buses been lowered by 25 per cent travel by public transport is
“kneel” at bus stops to make it since 1990, and Stockholm was highly encouraged.
easier to board or disembark. presented with the European More than 30 Stockholm
Those travelling with pets on Commission’s first European hotels are deemed eco-friendly,
public transport even have Green Capital Award in 2009. and numerous restaurants offer
purely organic menus. The
Stockholm Visitors Board lists
many such establishments.
For those wishing to sample
local produce, a farmers’
market can be found at
Hötorget seven days a week,
while other markets are open at
Katarina Bangata on Söder-
malm and at Tessinparken
in Gärdet from 10am to 3pm
on Saturdays during the
summer, as well as during
Hötorget market sells fruit, vegetables and flowers the Christmas holidays.
192  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

In an Emergency
Personal Security and Health The emergency telephone
Stockholm is outstandingly safe compared with virtually any number for police, fire or
other major city. To a great extent the city has been spared ambulance is 112. It can be
violence and terrorism, and natural disasters including earth- dialled free of charge from all
public and mobile telephones,
quakes and severe storms do not occur. However, as with any but should be used only in
major city, caution is recommended in the centre of town, emergencies. For minor ill-
particularly at night. Sweden has a well-developed network nesses or concerns, ring the
of emergency services as well as highly efficient hospital Healthcare Information
emergency clinics and rescue services. Service (Sjukvårdsupplysningen).

Lost and Stolen Property

When going out, it is a Lost or stolen property should
good idea to lock passports be reported to the nearest
and travel documents in your police station. The Police Lost
room safe or in the hotel Property Office (Polisens
strongbox. It is equally Hittegodsexpedition) is open
important not to leave any Monday to Friday from 10am to
valuables in your car; ideally, 3pm (until 6pm on Thursdays).
choose a hotel with its own Telephone enquiries are accepted
parking facilities. There is no Monday and Tuesday from 1pm
need to carry large amounts of to 3pm and Friday from 10am
cash when exploring the city. to noon. The Swedish State
ATM machines are widely Railways (Statens Järnvägar)
available, and all of the main has its own lost property office
Policeman Security guard credit and debit cards are for items lost on SJ trains. For
accepted in virtually all shops property lost on Storstockholms
and restaurants. Note that Lokaltrafik (SL) buses, Tunnelbana
Police many places now require you to trains or local trains, check with
In Stockholm, the police are enter your PIN number when the SL Lost Property Office
usually extremely helpful and using a debit or credit card. (Hittegodsavdelning), which is
competent in English and visitors Stockholm is easy to open from 11am to 7pm Monday,
can feel free to address them explore on foot or by 11am to 6pm Tuesday to Friday
with any questions or concerns. Tunnelbana (underground and 10am to 4pm Saturday.
Police patrolling on foot or in railway). The
cars are a routine sight in the Tunnelbana is
city centre, and mounted police safe at most
are common at special events. times, but avoid
There are police stations in empty carriages.
every part of the city, and Care should also
police are also available at the be taken when
Central Station/T-Centralen. walking around
To report an incident that does the city at night. Ambulance
not require immediate police In addition,
help call the non-emergency visitors should
number (114 14). avoid using
In addition to the police, unauthorized
security guards are a familiar taxis, particularly
feature in many public places, when arriving at
such as shopping centres. Arlanda Airport.
It is illegal to
buy sexual
Safety services in Police car
Although Stockholm is basically Sweden, so it is
safe, as with any major city, the buyer, not the
tourists can still run into trouble. prostitute, who
The many popular events attract is prosecuted.
bag-snatchers and pickpockets, As a result of
especially during the summer this law, street
months. Always keep an eye on prostitutes are
your bag and valuables in a rare sight in
crowded public areas. the inner city. Fire engine
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  193

Minor Hazards
Mosquitoes can be a nuisance
between June and late
September, especially at dusk.
This is particularly the case in
parks, along waterways and,
above all, in the archipelago.
Pharmacies can supply
mosquito repellent.
In the wooded areas around
Stockholm and in the
archipelago, ticks are a serious
problem. As ticks in this region
often carry borrelia or TBE, they
should be removed from the
Entrance to Karolinska Sjukhus, a hospital in Stockholm skin with tweezers as quickly
as possible. If redness develops
Hospitals and minor ailments are likely to around the bite, a doctor
Pharmacies experience long waiting times. should be consulted.
Several city hospitals have For severe toothache or eye The cobbled streets of Gamla
accident and emergency emergencies, patients can Stan, the city’s old quarter, can
clinics, including Karolinska report to S:t Eriks Sjukhus prove treacherous for tourists.
Sjukhus, Astrid Lindgrens between 7:45am and 8:30pm. Sturdy shoes are recommended
Barnsjukhus (children), Dand- Pharmacies can dispense when visiting this area,
eryds Sjukhus, S:t Görans medicines for most minor particularly in the winter.
Sjukhus (privately owned) ailments without a prescription,
and Södersjukhus. and staff can usually give good
Patients should not report advice on suitable medication. Travel and
to individual emergency Pharmacies across the city are Health Insurance
clinics without normally open Monday Foreign visitors are advised to
contacting the to Friday from 8:30am take out medical insurance
Healthcare to 4 or 6pm. Some are before departure to cover
Information Service also open on Saturday. medical care or hospital
beforehand. This service The C W Scheele in-patient treatment. EU citizens
can provide advice in Pharmacy sign pharmacy near are entitled to free medical care
English, and its staff are Central Station is in Sweden on production of a
responsible for assigning patients open 24 hours. There is also a European Health Insurance Card
to a suitable hospital or duty Pharmaceutical Information line (EHIC) and a valid passport or
doctor. It is always advisable to that gives advice on prescription other form of identification. As
make use of this service; those and non-prescription medication. not all treatment is covered by
who do not and go directly to a Visitors to Sweden do not the card, separate medical
hospital emergency clinic with need special vaccinations. insurance is advisable.

DIRECTORY
Police SL Lost Property Pharmaceutical Danderyds Sjukhus
Office Information Mörbygårdsvägen.
Non-emergency Klara Östra Kyrkogata 6. Tel 0771 450 450 Tel 08-655 50 00 (24-hrs).
Tel 114 14. Map 2 C5. (7am–9pm Mon–Fri, Karolinska Sjukhus
Tel 08-600 10 00. 8am–6pm Sat & Sun). Karolinska Vägen.
In an Emergency Map 2 A1.
Swedish State Tel 08-517 700 00 (24-hrs).
Ambulance, Police, Railways Lost Hospitals and
Fire Brigade Property Office Pharmacies S:t Eriks Sjukhus
Central Station, Polhemsgatan 50.
Tel 112. Astrid Lindgrens Map 1 C2.
Vasagatan.
Barnsjukhus Tel 08-672 31 00.
Lost and Stolen Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-501 255 90. Karolinska Hospital. S:t Görans Sjukhus
Property Map 2 A1. S:t Görans Plan 1.
Medical Infor- Tel 08-517 700 00. Map 1 A2.
Police Lost Property Tel 08-587 010 00.
Office mation Services C W Scheele
Södersjukhus
Bergsgatan 54. Healthcare Infor- Klarabergsgatan 64. Sjukhusbacken 10.
Map 1 C3. mation Service Map 2 C4. Map 8 B4.
Tel 010-563 36 10. Tel 08-32 01 00 (24-hrs). Tel 07-714 504 50 (24-hrs). Tel 08-616 10 00.
194  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Banking and Local Currency option, so remember to check

the exchange rates and
As Sweden remains outside the European Monetary Union commission charges before
(EMU), goods are priced only in Swedish kronor and not in going ahead.
euros. Visitors can change currency in banks, which provide
an efficient service, but better rates can often be obtained at ATMs
bureaux de change, which have longer opening hours and Automatic cash machines
are strategically located in the city centre. Automatic cash (ATMs) are widely available,
machines can be found outside most banks and in shopping operate efficiently and are
centres. Credit and debit cards are accepted nearly everywhere, generally safe to use. Foreign
and some of the larger stores accept the major foreign visitors can use all the city’s cash
machines to make withdrawals,
currencies. Traveller’s cheques are no longer accepted in shops
and can only be exchanged in banks and bureaux de change.
DIRECTORY
Banks
All banks are closed on Handelsbanken
weekends and on public Kungsträdgårdsgatan 2.
holidays, as well as the day Map 4 C1.
before a public holiday. Tel 08-701 10 00.
Various bureaux de change
Nordea
chains are represented in
Hamngatan 12.
Stockholm, including Forex Map 3 D4.
and X-Change. They generally Tel 077-122 44 88.
provide a better exchange rate
than the banks and they are Seb
Sergels Torg 2.
easily accessible. In the city
Map 2 C4.
centre, there is always an office
Tel 077-136 53 65.
close at hand.
Currency and traveller’s Bureaux de Change
cheques can be changed at one
of Forex’s or X-Change’s Arlanda Forex
Bankomat ATM Airport locations from 5:30am, Central Station.
and from 7am at the Forex or Map 2 C5.
Banks and Bureaux Tel 08-411 67 34.
X-change offices at Stockholm
de Change Arlanda Airport, Terminal 2.
Central Station. All of these
There are plenty of banks in the outlets are open for more than Tel 08-593 622 71.
city centre, all of which offer 12 hours daily. At Central Arlanda Airport, Terminal 5.
currency exchange services, and Station, Forex and X-Change Tel 08-593 622 20.
can help visitors who need to are both located in the main Klarabergsgatan 60.
report lost or stolen bank or entrance hall and on the Map 2 C5.
credit cards. The major banks – underground train level. Other Tel 010-211 16 10.
∑ forex.se
Handelsbanken, Nordea and exchange offices can be found
SEB – have numerous branches in the Nordiska Kompaniet and X-Change
throughout Stockholm. Their PUB department stores, and in Arlanda Airport, Terminal 5.
opening times vary, but the the Gallerian shopping centre Tel 010-211 16 93.
normal hours are from 9:30am on Hamngatan (see p183). Central Station.
to 3pm. Some banks stay open Changing money in your Map 2 B4.
until 6pm at least once a week. hotel can be an expensive Tel 08-545 230 30.
∑ x-change.se

Credit and Debit Cards

American Express
Tel 08-429 56 00
Diners Club
Tel 08-14 68 78.
MasterCard
Tel 020-791 324 (emergency
assistance for international visitors).
Visa
Tel 020-795675.
The head office of Handelsbanken at Kungsträdgårdsgatan
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  195

provided that they have an Credit and Debit Cards Currency

internationally accepted credit All the well-known credit and Sweden’s currency is the
or debit card with a PIN code. debit cards, including Visa, Swedish krona (plural kronor).
The majority of ATMs accept MasterCard, American Express The krona (abbreviated as
Visa and MasterCard. Please and Diners Club, are accepted SEK or kr) is divided into 100
note that credit card companies not just by the larger hotels and öre. The smallest coin is 1 kr
often charge a high fee for such restaurants but by nearly all and the largest note is 1,000
cash advances. shops and services. Customers kronor, which is not commonly
Machines usually have instruc- paying by credit or debit card used. If possible, it is advisable
tions in several languages, may be asked to produce proof not to carry notes of more
including English. The charge of identity, and many stores than 500 kr.
for withdrawing cash varies require use of the PIN code Many of Stockholm’s larger
according to the type of card, associated with the card. shops and department stores
and additional fees may be If your credit or debit card will accept euros as payment
charged by the cardholder’s is lost or stolen, contact your for goods, but, to avoid
bank. As criminals are known to card company immediately. disappointment, it is best to
watch ATMs to gather PIN code In order to ensure your card check with a shop employee
information, make sure that you works overseas, it is worth cont- that this is indeed the case
shield the keypad with your hand acting your bank or credit card before trying to purchase
or body when entering your PIN. provider in advance of travelling. your goods.

20 kronor

50 kronor

100 kronor

500 kronor

Notes
Swedish currency notes are issued in
denominations of 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000
kronor. They depict historic Swedish artists,
authors, scientists and monarchs. 1,000 kronor

Coins
Coins are issued in
values of 1, 5 and
10 kronor. The 1 kr
coin depicts Sweden’s
monarch on the
obverse side, while the
5 kr has his monogram
on the reverse side. 1 krona 5 kronor 10 kronor
196  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media

Sweden has a top-ranking telecommunications industry, one
of the most successful and innovative in the world. High living
standards have placed the Swedes among the world’s biggest
users of mobile telephones, and there is a very high level of
Internet usage. Telephone cards – and usually credit or debit Logo of Telenor network provider
cards – can be used to make a call from a public telephone,
while a mobile phone can be purchased at a relatively low The major network providers in
price. With Internet access readily available, there is no risk of Sweden include Telia, Telenor,
being cut off from the world here. Tele2/Comviq and 3 Sweden.
Inexpensive GSM mobile phones
can be purchased at a number
of stores, including The Phone
House, Telia or Telenor, together
with a pre-paid SIM card for local
phone calls.
Within the Stockholm area,
mobile users need to dial the
area code 08 before a local
number – the country code is
not needed.

Internet Facilities
Most hotels offer guests email
and fax services. Furthermore,
nearly all hotels and hostels in
the Stockholm area offer Internet
The interior of the Stadsbiblioteket (City Library) access, although they may charge
a daily fee. Public computers are
generally available at local
International and Local Mobile Phones libraries, such as the Stockholm
Telephone Calls The number of telephone kiosks City Library at Odengatan 63.
The prefix for international calls in Sweden has shown a marked Users may be asked to present
from Sweden is 00 followed by decline in recent years because some form of identification.
the country code, the area code virtually every Swede has a Sidewalk Express offers pay-
(omitting any initial 0) and the mobile phone. Sweden’s mobile per-minute Internet access from
local number. network is based on GSM, and computer terminals at Arlanda
Public telephones are usually most foreign visitors can use Airport, Central Station, and a
operated by phone cards, which their GSM phones. However, number of Pressbyrån and
are sold at newspaper kiosks visitors from North America 7-Eleven stores throughout the
and shops. Normal credit cards should check with their service city. The cost varies by location
and most international providers to ensure their but usually ranges from 25–35
telephone cards can also be phones are GSM-compatible. kr per hour.
used, although the charge per Wireless Internet (Wi-Fi)
minute is generally higher. It is access is widely available for
possible to make reverse-charge visitors with their own
(collect) calls and calls to the computers. Most hotels, many
emergency number 112 (free of cafés and all Max Hamburgers
charge) from all phones. Coin- restaurants offer free Wi-Fi.
operated phones are becoming
increasingly rare.
Local numbers can be Postal Services
obtained by ringing directory The Swedish postal system –
enquiries on 118 118, or on the easily recognized by its blue-
Internet at Eniro (www.eniro.se) and-gold symbol – is based on
or at Hitta (www.hitta.se). a series of small postal kiosks
Computer-to-computer phone located in local grocery stores,
calls allow visitors to call free of such as Hemköp which is one
charge using the Internet. of the most central. These kiosks
Popular service providers offer the most common services
include Skype and Google Talk. A typical Swedish telephone kiosk and are open during normal
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  197

DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones
The Phone House
Brunkebergstorg 10.
Map 3 D4.
Tel 08-796 47 50.
Telenor Store
Ringvägen 132.
Map 8 B2.
Tel 020-015 90 80.
Telia Store
Kungsgatan 36.
Pressbyrån kiosks, newsagent selling stamps Map 2 C4.
Tel 08-696 96 80.
shop hours. Some official post Stockholm. DHL and UPS
offices remain to handle more services are available at
specialized services; one is Mailboxes Etc., which is located Internet Facilities
located on Klarabergsvia- in the city centre and open on
dukten 84 near Central Station week days from 8am to 7pm. In Café String
and is open on weekdays from addition, special courier services Nytorgsgatan 38.
8:30am to 6pm. are also offered through the Map 9 E3.
Stamps can be bought at post Swedish post office. Tel 08-714 85 14.
offices and postal kiosks, as well Max Hamburgers
as at Pressbyrån kiosks and Kungsträdgårdsgatan 20.
tourist information offices. It Television and Radio
Map 3 D4.
costs 7 kr to send a postcard or Virtually all hotel rooms have Tel 08-611 38 10.
letter under 20g (0.04 lb) within a TV with a range of national
Sidewalk Express
Sweden and 14 kr to the rest and foreign channels. The
Located in Stockholm Central
of the world. Post boxes are most common channels are
Station, Arlanda Airport, and
painted in different colours: the Swedish SVT1, SVT2, TV3,
7-Eleven and Pressbyrån stores.
the yellow boxes are for TV4 and Channel 5, as well
national and inter- as the international Postal Services
national mail and the CNN, Sky News, MTV
blue boxes for letters and Eurosport. SVT1 DHL
destined for the and 2 are State-run Tel 077-134 53 45.
Stockholm area (post public-service
Federal Express (FedEx)
codes starting with “1”). channels. SVT2 and
Arlanda Airport.
In some areas, there are Post Office logo TV4 broadcast local
Tel 0200 252 252.
only yellow boxes, which programmes in the
can then be used for local mail morning and evening, which Hemköp
as well. Collection times vary include weather forecasts. Mäster Samuelsgatan 57.
and are always shown on the There are a number of local Map 2 C4.
post box. radio stations that broadcast a Tel 020-23 22 21.
Most international courier selection of international and Mailboxes Etc.
services, including DHL, UPS Swedish music. P6, Stockholm Mäster Samuelsgatan 20.
and FedEx, are represented in International, broadcasts Map 3 D4.
English- and German-language Tel 08-411 70 10.
programmes on 89.6 MHz.
Swedish Post
Klarabergsviadukten 84.
Newspapers and Map 2 B5.
Magazines Tel 08-781 20 42.
Many foreign newspapers and UPS
magazines can be bought in Tel 077-662 20 77.
Stockholm. For the broadest
range, visit Press Stop, Press
Center or Press Specialisten. of foreign titles can be found
Alternatively, the Pressbyrån at the Plattan Library at
kiosks and tourist information Kulturhuset, which is open
offices around the city stock Monday to Friday from 9am to
Yellow postbox for national and a limited number of foreign 7pm, and Saturday to Sunday
international, blue for local mail publications. A wide variety from 11am to 5pm.
198  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

GETTING TO STOCKHOLM
Stockholm’s location at the centre of the construction and the railway system being
Baltic region has made it an important upgraded for high-speed trains. Car ferries
transport hub. Direct, daily flights link the operate between Stockholm and Finland and
capital to most major European and North other points in the Baltic, and from Sweden’s
American cities. Arlanda Airport, served by west and south coasts, the capital can be
about 60 international and domestic airlines, reached by high-speed trains and motorways
is one of the most efficient in the world. In in 6 hours. Sweden also has a direct link to
addition, Sweden’s infrastructure is constantly the Continent via the Öresund bridge to
being improved, with new motorways under Denmark in the south.

fortified wine, 4 litres of wine

and 16 litres of beer, and 200
cigarettes or 50 cigars, all of
which must be for personal
use only.
Visitors from within the EU
can bring any amount of food
into Sweden, with the exception
of fish, which is subject to an
import restriction of 15 kg
(33 lb). Those wishing to import
fresh food from other areas
must be in possession of a
health certificate and understand
that such food will be inspected
at the border. Visitors from non-
Duty free at Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport EU countries travelling by
commercial airlines or ferries
Arriving by Air dates, or can book well in can take in goods, including
Most major European cities advance. SAS, for example, has beer and food, with a value of
have direct flights to Stock- low-cost fares, which must be up to 4,300 kr.
holm. Many of the world’s booked at least seven days Tax-free sales in Sweden are
leading airlines, such as British before departure and require permitted only for travellers with
Airways, serve Arlanda Airport, a Saturday night stay at the a final destination outside the EU.
located about 40 km (25 miles) destination. Bookings on this
north of the city centre. Some type of ticket cannot
Swedish domestic airlines also usually be changed. Getting to
use Arlanda Airport, including Scheduled airlines the City from
SAS (Scandinavian Airlines). generally maintain Arlanda Airport
SAS logo
Stockholm is also served by their basic fare There are several
two other airports. Bromma, structure throughout the year. ways of getting to the city
close to the city centre, is used However, special offers and from Arlanda Airport. The
by several of the smaller last-minute online deals are “Flygbussarna” bus service,
domestic airlines as well as frequently available. which operates every 10
Finnair and Brussels Airlines. minutes at peak times, takes 45
Skavsta, about 100 km (62 miles) minutes to the City Terminal at
south of Stockholm, is used by Customs Central Station and costs about
Ryanair for flights to and from Travellers arriving from within 120 kr one way or 215 kr for a
London Stansted Airport. A bus the EU are able to bring an return ticket. Tickets can be
takes travellers into Stockholm. unlimited amount of alcohol cheaper if bought online in
Direct flights between Stock- into the country for their own advance. An onward journey by
holm and North America are consumption, provided they taxi can be booked on the bus.
run by SAS, Delta and United. are at least 20 years old, and an A taxi from the airport is quicker
unlimited amount of tobacco but more expensive. Most taxi
for their own consumption, firms have a fixed charge of
Air Fares and Tickets as long as they are at least 18 about 500 kr to the city centre.
Fare options are varied, years of age. Travellers from Use only authorized taxis
particularly if you can be flexible outside the EU may only bring waiting in the official taxi
about departure and arrival 1 litre of spirits or 2 litres of queues at Arlanda and agree
 GETTING TO STOCKHOLM  199

DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air
British Airways
Tel 0770 110 020.
Tel 0844 381 63 05 (UK).
∑ britishairways.com

Ryanair
Tel 0900 100 0550.
Tel 0843 658 08 99 (UK).
Ferry from Finland on the way to its terminal at Stadsgården ∑ ryanair.com

SAS
on the fare with the driver The same routes are served Tel 0770 727 727.
before departure. The Arlanda by express coaches, most of Tel 0871 226 77 60 (UK).
Express train takes 20 minutes which are run by Swebus. ∑ flysas.com
to Central Station and costs Journey times are longer (about
about 280 kr each way. 9 hours from Malmö and about Arriving by Train
7 hours from Gothenburg), or Coach
but fares are generally much
Statens Järnvägar (SJ)
lower and advance booking
Tel 0771 757 575.
is not required.
∑ sj.se

Swebus
Arriving by Ferry Tel 0771 218 218.
Large passenger/car ferries ∑ swebusexpress.se
sail to Stockholm from Finland. Tågkompaniet
Both Viking Line and Tallink Tel 0771 444 111.
Silja Line operate daily services ∑ tagkompaniet.se
and have their own terminals
at Stadsgården near the city Arriving by Ferry
centre and Värtahamnen
respectively. The journey from Tallink Silja Line
The Arlanda Express, linking Arlanda Helsinki takes about 15 hours, Tel 08-22 21 40.
∑ tallinksilja.com
Airport with the city while it takes 11 hours from
Turku. Both shipping lines Viking Line
Arriving by Train offer excellent passenger Tel 08-452 40 00.
or Coach facilities, including good food, ∑ vikingline.se
Rail and coach travel from the entertainment and shopping.
Continent to Stockholm is Tallink Silja Line operates daily
quick, inexpensive and com- from Tallinn in Estonia to the
fortable. The opening, in 2000, Värtahamnen terminal. on the E3 of about 450 km
of the Öresund bridge, which (280 miles) to Stockholm. The
carries both rail and road traffic fastest route from Germany to
between Denmark and south- Arriving by Car Sweden is the catamaran ferry
ern Sweden, significantly Visitors driving from Denmark from Rostock to Trelleborg in
shortened travel times. can use the Öresund toll bridge southern Sweden, then the E6 to
Within Sweden, the state- between Copenhagen and Malmö and the E4 to Stockholm.
owned railway company Malmö. The toll costs around Speed limits are usually clearly
Statens Järnvägar (SJ) operates 425 kr for a normal passenger signed. On Swedish motorways,
most of the long-distance trains. vehicle. On the Swedish side, the limit is typically 110 km/h
Some routes are run by private the bridge connects with (68 mph) or 120 km/h
companies, notably the E4, a 550-km (340-mile) (75 mph). On other main
Tågkompaniet (Stockholm– motorway to Stockholm. roads, the limit is
northern Sweden). Air travel Another option is the 90 km/h (56 mph),
between Stockholm and Malmö 20-minute car ferry while it is 50 km/h
or Gothenburg faces strong from Helsingør (31 mph) in built-up
competition from SJ’s X 2000 in Denmark to Warning, moose on areas. Take care
high-speed train. The lowest Helsingborg the road when driving in the
fares can usually be purchased in Sweden. countryside, as moose
90 days in advance. The journey Car ferries to Gothenburg and deer can suddenly appear
by train from Malmö to Stock- operate from Denmark on the road. Accidents involving
holm is about 5 hours; from (Frederikshavn) and Germany these animals must be reported
Gothenburg it is 3 hours. (Kiel), with an onward journey to the police.
200  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

GETTING AROUND
STOCKHOLM
Stockholm is a perfect city for pedestrians. trains, trams and local trains is efficient and
Distances between sights are usually short, covers the entire city and surrounding region.
and around every corner there is something Apart from the area of Gamla Stan, and
interesting to explore. The capital extends during rush hours, driving in Stockholm is rel-
across a large number of islands, offering atively easy, and indoor parking facilities are
eye-catching vistas and waterfront scenes. adequate. However, the best way of exploring
Public transport on buses, underground the city centre is on foot.

Green Travel (see p131) is also recommended,

In recent years, Stockholm not least for its magnificent
has focussed on encouraging views of the city.
travellers and inhabitants alike Guided walks are organized
to move about the city in the regularly, often with a special
most environmentally friendly theme, such as architecture,
way possible. For tourists, day history or parks. Sometimes
tickets on public transport are they are available in different
significantly cheaper than paid languages, especially during the
parking, and visitors arriving or summer months. Most walks
travelling across the city by bus, take place in Gamla Stan, but
Tunnelbana or train are not there are a number of other
subject to the city’s congestion routes. Ask at the Stockholm
tolls. Every major site in the city Visitor Centre for details.
is easily accessible by public
transport, and switching from
one form of transport to Driving in Stockholm
another is very straightforward. Pedestrianized square in Gamla Stan, the Driving around Stockholm is
A good alternative to public city’s Old Town straightforward, except during
transport during the summer rush hours (7:30–9:30am, noon–
months is the Stockholm City – otherwise you may wait a 1pm and 3:30–6pm). It is also best
Bikes system (see p205), through long time before the light to avoid driving in Gamla Stan,
which visitors can borrow a changes to green. due to narrow one-way streets.
bike and tour the city on their The city’s clear street signs However, cars are not necessary
own. The cheapest method make it simple to find your way in the city centre given the short
of getting around, around. There are distances between sights and the
however, is walking sidewalks everywhere, excellent public transport system.
and doing so is easy as well as plenty of Fines for speeding are high,
because of Stockholm’s pedestrian streets and and you can lose your driving
compact city centre. park areas. licence even if the limit is only
Many roads are Gamla Stan is slightly exceeded. Vehicle head-
pedestrian friendly a popular area for lights must always be on, and
and, in most cases, it is exploring on foot, drivers and passengers are
easy to walk from one Pedestrian and there is always required to wear seatbelts.
attraction to the next. crossing sign something to see Sweden’s drink-drive laws are
around Kungsträdgården. zero-tolerance: the maximum
A stroll along the quayside permitted blood alcohol level is
Stockholm on Foot opposite the Grand Hôtel and 0.2 mg per ml. Motorists must
While walking is the best the Nationalmuseum can be give way to pedestrians at
way to see the sights in central followed by a walk around crossings without traffic lights.
Stockholm, there are Skeppsholmen. Another
regulations to be aware of. delightful area is Djurgården, Reading Street Signs
Pedestrians are not allowed to with a host of attractions set
Street name
cross a road at a red light, and in a park environment a short
motorists must stop and give distance from the city centre.
way to pedestrians at zebra Those who like to walk along
crossings without traffic lights the waterfront can follow the
(always look carefully). Don’t quaysides from Stadshuset
forget to press the pedestrian along Norr Mälarstrand or the Street number
crossing button at intersections Riddarfjärden bay. Fjällgatan Block range in block
 GETTING AROUND STOCKHOLM  201

Visitors bringing their own DIRECTORY

car to Stockholm should have Parking zone
an international Green Card Stockholm Visitor Centre
for insurance. Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg 5,
Stockholm has introduced 111 57 Stockholm.
a congestion charge system. Parking charge Map 2 C4. Tel 08-508 285 08.
9am–5pm; ∑ visitstockholm.com
Road tolls must be paid by all
private vehicles entering or free at other
times Car Rental
leaving the city between 6:30am
and 6:30pm Monday to Friday. No parking on Avis
The toll varies from 10 kr to weekday night Tel 0770 820 082.
20 kr depending on the time indicated, ∑ avis.se
of day, with the higher midnight–6am Europcar
charges in effect during the Tel 0770 770 050.
morning and evening rush ∑ europcar.se
hours. Cars with foreign marked with a “P”. If paying with
Hertz
licence plates are not charged, coins, place them in the slot and
Tel 0771 211 212.
but cars rented in Sweden are wait for the screen to display the ∑ hertz.se
subject to the fee. Car-hire time at which your paid parking
agencies generally charge con- will end. To pay with a credit card, Taxis
gestion fees back to the renter. swipe the card and use the 1 kr,
5 kr or 10 kr buttons to select Taxi 020
the amount of money you wish Tel 020 20 20 20.
Car Rental to spend. Wait for the screen to ∑ taxi020.se
A number of car-hire firms, display the time at which your Taxi Kurir
including Avis, Europcar and paid parking will end. If you wish Tel 08-30 00 00.
Hertz, have offices in Stockholm to add additional time, continue ∑ taxikurir.se
or at Arlanda Airport. The larger to use the currency buttons. Taxi Stockholm
hotels and the main tourist office Regardless of your payment Tel 08-15 00 00.
at Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg 5, method, you must press the ∑ taxistockholm.se
can arrange a car, which can be green button when the desired
delivered at your convenience. end-time for your parking shows
A driving licence and a major on the screen. Place the ticket Getting Around by Taxi
credit card must be shown on your dashboard, so that it is Given the short distances
before signing a rental clearly visible from the outside. between places in the city
agreement. Some agencies Parking on many streets is centre, the demand for taxis is
have age restrictions for renters. free on weekends, or between not as high as in other major
5pm and 9am except on street- cities. However, they are
cleaning nights as indicated convenient and relatively
Parking on road signs. Major attractions cheap for brief journeys.
There are plenty of parking such as museums often have Taxi 020, Taxi Kurir and Taxi
spaces in multistorey car parks, their own car parks, which are Stockholm are the three main
but it can sometimes be difficult subject to a charge. companies that operate in the
to find a vacant spot, particularly The city’s parking wardens are city. Tourists should be cautious
in the summer. Charges can diligent. Any breach of regulations when using other taxi firms, as
range from 60 to 70 kr per hour. can involve a fine of 500 kr or many of them are known to be
If you plan to park on the street, more, and it costs at least 700 kr very expensive.
which can be difficult, you need if a vehicle is parked within 10 m There are usually plenty of
to familiarize yourself with the (33 ft) of a crossing. Valuables taxis available, particularly at
various road signs. In the city should not be left in the car. stations and sights, except
centre, it often costs 14 kr or It is simpler and cheaper to park during rush hours. Empty taxis,
more per hour for on-street at the 25 park-and-ride facilities indicated by an illuminated sign
parking, and fees must be paid just outside the inner city, close on the roof, can also be hailed
in advance at the blue-and- to public transport connections. down. However, the best
white parking meters method is to order a taxi by
telephone or book one in
advance on the Internet. The
initial charge is usually 45 kr, with
an additional 100–200 kr for a
journey within the central area,
but it is always worth enquiring
what the fare is likely to be.
Avoid using the unauthorized
A Stockholm taxi “black taxis”, especially at night.
202  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Getting Around by Public Transport

Virtually all of Stockholm’s sights and attractions can be
reached easily by Tunnelbana (underground train) or by
bus. The map below shows the Tunnelbana network, and
a map of inner-city bus routes is on the inside back cover,
as well as the pull-out map. SL is responsible for public
transport by Tunnelbana, bus and local train. The various
types of transport complement each other and cover
Greater Stockholm.

Tunnelbana stations are located in the

Work started on Stockholm’s inner city. A modern SL Tunnelbana train
first underground railway, the The Tunnelbana provides
Tunnelbana, in the late 1940s. a quick and efficient way to Sunday to Thursday, while on
Since then, the network has move around the city. Travellers Friday and Saturday it runs until
been extended and now has can transfer from one 4am. At other times, night bus
100 stations on three routes – Tunnelbana train to the next services are available. Schedules
the green, red and blue lines – with relative ease, and may differ on national holidays.
all run by Storstockholms Tunnelbana employees are The Tunnelbana stations
Lokaltrafik (SL). All three usually happy to help anyone display various works of art,
routes link up at T-Centralen, needing assistance. making the network an attrac-
which adjoins Central Station, The Tunnelbana operates tion in itself. A guide to the art
and 19 of the network’s from 5am until 3:30am from is available at tourist offices.

Tunnelbana Key
T10 Kungsträdgården – Hjulsta T17 Åkeshov – Skarpnäck
T11 Kungsträdgården – Akalla T18 Alvik – Farsta strand
T13 Norsborg – Ropsten T19 Hässelby strand – Hagsätra
T14 Fruängen – Mörby centrum
Mörby centrum
Akalla
Tensta Danderyds sjukhus
Hjulsta Husby

Rinkeby Kista Bergshamra

Rissne
Hallonbergen
Universitetet
Johannelund Duvbo
Hässelby Näckrosen Tekniska högskolan
gård Vällingby Sundybergs
centrum Solna
Råcksta centrum Stadion
Vreten Ropsten
Hässelby Blackeberg Råadmans-
strand Huvudsta gatan Gärdet
Odenplan
Islandstorget Västra skogen Karlaplan
Ängbyplan Abrahams- S:t Eriks-
Stadshagen plan Hö- Östermalmstorg
Åkeshov berg Alvik torget
Brommaplan T-Centralen/Stockholm C
Stora Kristeneberg
mossen Kungsträdgården
Thorildsplan Frid- Råd-
huset Gamla stan
helmsplan
Mariatorget Slussen
Zinkensdamm
Medborgarplatsen
Aspudden Hornstull Skanstull
Örnsberg Liljeholmen Gullmarsplan
Axelsberg Midsommer-
Bredäng Globen Skärmarbrink
kransen
Mälarhöjden Enskede Hammarbyhöjden
Sätra Telefonplan
gård Björkhagen
Skärholmen Hägerstansåsen Blåsut
Sockenplan Kärrtorp
Sandsborg
Västertorp Bagar-
Vårberg Svedmyra
Skogskyrkogården mossen
Fruängen Stureby
Vårby gård Tallkrogen Skarpnäck
Bandhagen
Gubbången
Masmo Hagsätra
Rågsved Högdalen Hökarängen
Norsborg Fittja
Farsta
Hallunda Alby
Farsta strand
 GETTING AROUND STOCKHOLM  203

DIRECTORY
Public Transport
Storstockholms Lokaltrafik
(SL)
Central Ticket Office,
Central Station Lower Hall.
Map 2 C5.
Tel 08-600 10 00.
∑ sl.se

Restored vintage tram, a popular way of getting to Djurgården Trams

Buses Trams Djurgårdslinjen
Stockholm’s network of red In 2010, Stockholm opened the ∑ sparvagssallskapet.se
city buses run on the main first stage of the new tramline,
inner-city routes, and the Spårväg City. This line takes
blue “feeder” buses operate travellers from Kungsträdgården the vintage trams, but holders
on the routes out to the to Waldemarsudde on a regular of an SL Access card may ride
suburbs. Many streets have SL ticket. The trams run every 15 for free.
special bus lanes, which make minutes from 5:30am to 1:30am
travel quick and easy. The Monday to Friday, from 6am to
buses are all modern and 1:30am on Saturday, and from Local trains
comfortable, with easy access 6:30am to 1:30am on Sunday. Stockholm’s inner-city public
for prams and wheelchairs, A charming way of travelling transportation system is comple-
and they use environmentally to Djurgården, particularly in mented by an extensive network
friendly fuels such as ethanol the summer, is to take one of of local trains (pendeltåg), many
and natural gas. the lovingly restored vintage of which accept the same SL
The best routes for sight- trams. In fact, since there is tickets used on the Tunnelbana
seeing are 2, 3, 44, 65 and 69, no subway service on the system. Travellers can therefore
which cover most of the island, trams provide a good easily visit a number of towns
central area and stop near alternative to driving. and villages around Stockholm,
many sights. Route 69, Djurgårdslinjen, a voluntary including Täby, Södertalje,
which can be boarded organization of tram Åkersberga, Nynäshamn and
at Norrmalmstorg, is enthusiasts, run services on Kungsängen. While most regional
particularly useful for reaching the former line 7 (now Line trains leave from Central Station,
sights not served by the 7N) between Norrmalmstorg the regional trains on the
Tunnelbana. Route 69 goes and Djurgården, where 14 Roslagsbanean line leave from
to southern Gärdet with its trams are stabled. The trams Östra Station, which is adjacent
four important museums run approximately every 15 to the Tekniska Högskolan stop
and Kaknästornet before minutes between 10am and on the red Tunnelbana line.
continuing to Blockhusudden 7pm daily from early July until
at the easternmost tip late August. The rest of the year,
of Djurgården. they run on weekends and Tickets
Buses run every few minutes holidays only. Refreshments A single ticket for travel on
throughout the day and are served on some services. public transportation costs
about 20 to 30 minutes in Every year more than 300,000 36 kr and is generally valid for
the late evening. There are passengers enjoy a trip using 60 minutes. Travel cards valid
also three night buses that this popular method of travel. for 1 day (115 kr), 3 days
operate hourly. SL tickets cannot be used on (230 kr) or 7 days (300 kr) are
also available. They are issued
through the SL Access system
and are valid for all zones. To
use an SL Access card, hold it
against the blue entry pad
when entering a bus or a
Tunnelbana station. Reduced-
price tickets are available for
children (see p191), students
and pensioners with a valid ID.
Tickets and Access cards can
be bought at Pressbyrån kiosks,
the SL Central Ticket Office or
Red city bus and blue “feeder” bus at most stations.
204  SUR VIVAL GUIDE

Getting Around by Ferry and Boat

Stockholm’s location between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic DIRECTORY
archipelago means that its waterways play an important
Ferries
role in city life. A large number of scheduled boat services,
ferries and sightseeing tours offer visitors endless Waxholmsbolaget
opportunities to enjoy Stockholm from the water. Note Strömkajen.
Map 3 D5. Tel 08-679 58 30.
that from mid-August transport schedules are adjusted ∑ waxholmsbolaget.se
for winter, so always check the times.
Sightseeing by Boat
around 85 kr. Their Strömma
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 11.
“Historical Canal” tour
Map 3 D5.
departs hourly from the
quayside near the City Nybrokajen 9.
Hall and costs 185 kr. The Map 3 E4. Tel 08-12 00 40 00.
∑ stromma.se
“Under the Bridges of
Stockholm” tour and Hiring Boats
“Royal Canal” tour depart
Djurgården ferry in front of Nordiska museet from Strömkajen near Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé
the Grand Hôtel Galärvarvsgatan 2.
Ferries (passengers can also board at Map 3 F5. Tel 08-660 57 57.
One of the best ways to visit Nybroplan). The former tour ∑ sjocafet.se
Djurgården is to take a ferry operates from April to October
from the city centre. Operated between 10am and 8pm and
by Waxholmsbolaget, the ferry costs about 240 kr. The latter that can be reached by fast
service links with bus and operates from April to passenger boats or traditional
Tunnelbana routes, and is free December between 10:30am and steamers are listed on pages
for holders of SL’s 1–3- or 7- day 6pm for about 85 kr. On all tours, 142–153.
cards. Single tickets cost 45 kr. guides speak English and Swedish.
The ferry runs year-round from Waxholmsbolaget operates a
Slussen via Skeppsholmen to number of scheduled public Hiring Boats and Canoes
Allmänna Gränd near Gröna Lund, transport boat services year- Enjoying the city from the
and operates from 6:30am round. An excellent way of water is an exciting experience.
until midnight. From May to exploring the archipelago is to Rowboats, canoes, kayaks,
August there is a route from take one of the regular services pedalos and small boats with
Nybroplan to Vasamuseet, from Strömkajen: these call at outboard motors can be hired
Skeppsholmen and Gröna countless picturesque jetties near the Djurgården bridge at
Lund from 10am to 6pm. along the way. The ferry company Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé.
and tourist information offices The gentle waters of the
can suggest suitable itineraries. Djurgården Canal are ideal
Sightseeing by Boat Organized excursions both in for rowing, paddle-boating
A pleasant way of enjoying the archipelago and on Lake or canoeing.
Stockholm is to take one of the Mälaren are run by Strömma
many sightseeing boat tours and other operators. You can, City
Nybroplan

(see maps below). Strömma for instance, take a gastro- Strömkajen Vasa-
Stadshusbron varvet
offers several tours including a nomic evening cruise to
hop-on, hop-off tour that costs Vaxholm. A number of sights Skepps-
Allm.
Gamla Holmen Gränd
Stan
Slussen
Key To Ferry Routes
Djurgårdsfärjan (see inset map) Key

Under the Bridges of Stockholm Tour Djurgården Ferry (May–Aug)

Historical Canal Tour (Jun–Aug) City
Royal Canal Tour (Apr–Dec) Kungsholmen

Drottningholm Tour (Jun–Aug) Djurgården

Drottningholm
Södermalm
0 kilometres 3

0 miles 2
 GETTING AROUND STOCKHOLM  205

Getting Around by Bicycle DIRECTORY

Stockholm and its surrounding area are tailor-made for Cycling Tours
cycling. The capital’s network of bicycle tracks is increasing all and Maps
the time, and you do not need to be a very experienced city Bikeguide Stockholm
cyclist if you want to explore the central area from the saddle. Narvavägen 13.
Map 3 F4.
Furthermore, anyone wanting to go out into the countryside
Tel 07-330 956 26.
and enjoy the fresh air and beautiful surroundings will not ∑ bikeguide-stockholm.se
have to travel far from the city centre.
Cykelfrämjandet
Tel 08-545 910 30.
Cycling in Stockholm ∑ cykelframjandet.se

With over 700 km (435 miles) of Kartbutiken

bike lanes, and numerous bike Mäster Samuelsgatan 54.
paths in Djurgården and other Map 2 C4.
parks, Stockholm is easily Tel 08-20 23 03.
∑ kartbutiken.se
accessible to biking enthusiasts
and casual bikers alike. In recent Bicycle Rental
years, the city has significantly
increased the number of bicycle Cykel & Mopeduthyrningen
lanes on major streets and run Strandvägen, quay berth No. 24.
several campaigns to increase A Stockholm City Bikes stand Map 3 F4. Tel 08-660 79 59.
awareness of bicycles as an Cykelstallet
environmentally friendly Under Swedish law, all cyclists 15 Scheelegatan 15.
alternative to cars. years old and under are required Map 2 B5. Tel 08-651 00 66.
Djurgården, with its gently to wear helmets, and all bicycles ∑ cykelstallet.se
graded cycle tracks and roads, must have electric lights after
Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé
that are mostly free of cars, is an dusk. Cyclists generally do not
Galärvarvsgatan 2.
excellent area for those wishing have right of way at intersections Map 3 F5. Tel 08-660 57 57.
to explore by bike. Gärdet, and should watch for turning cars. ∑ sjocafet.se
Lilljanskogen and Hagaparken Bike racks can be found almost
are other good areas for biking. everywhere, and it is advisable Stockholm City Bikes
It is also possible to cycle in to lock any bike left unattended Tel 077-444 24 24.
parts of the Royal National City ∑ citybikes.se
to avoid the risk of theft.
Park (Ekoparken; see p123), There are numerous cycling
which are virtually traffic-free. tours available in the city.
Bicycle routes are clearly Bikeguide Stockholm, located Bicycle Rental
posted throughout much of outside Historiska museet, Stockholm City Bikes offers
Stockholm, and there are organize various tours that take an excellent option for visitors
marked routes that stretch in all the major sites as well as wishing to explore the city by
further out from the city centre. paths along the waterfront. To bike. Tourists can purchase a
Maps can be bought from find out more about cycling, or 3-day rental card for 165 kr at
Kartbutiken and in most book- cycling tours in Stockholm and the Stockholm Visitors Board
stores and are also available throughout Sweden, contact or at the main SL office at
from the tourist office. Cykelfrämjandet. Central Station. After swiping
the card at any one of the city’s
80 bicycle stands, the renter
can borrow a bike for up to
3 hours. Bikes can be returned
to any stand, which creates a
great deal of flexibility. Renters
must have their own bicycle
helmets to use this service.
Two rental firms,
Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé and
Cykel & Mopeduthyrningen,
are located on Strandvägen
near the Djurgården bridge.
These companies offer bicycle
rental by the day and also hire
out rollerblades. Cykelstallet
is the best place in town to go
A bicycle rank on the waterfront for mountain bike rental.
206  STOCKHOLM STREET FINDER

STOCKHOLM STREET FINDER

The map below shows the areas of indicates the map page, while the letter and
Stockholm covered by the street map only. following figure shows its location on the
Gamla Stan (Old Town) is shown on a larger map grid. All the more important sights are
scale than the rest of the city. The map marked so that they are easier to find. The
references listed in the guide for many key below explains other symbols on the
sights, restaurants, hotels, shops and map, including post offices, tunnelbana
entertainment spots refer to the maps in stations and churches. An overview
this section. The first figure of the reference map of Stockholm is on pp14–15.

0 kilometres 2

0 miles 1

VA
TAN LHA
GA LLA
EN VÄ
OD G EN
N
ATA
SVE

KA
RLA
REG
AVÄ

VÄG
EN
STU
G

TAN
EN
AN
GAT

EGA

N
ATA
RIKS

YLL

SG
NG
SIB
S:T E

KU
VA
SAG.

HANTV
ER
GATA KAR-
N

Mälaren
ÄLARSTRAND
SÖDER M

N Saltsjön
SGATA
HORN
RENST
GÖT

IERNA
GATA
N

S GA

RIN
GV
TA

ÄG
EN

Scale of Map Pages

Key to Street Finder
Major sight Tourist information office 1-3 and 6-9
0 metres 200
Place of interest Hospital with casualty unit
0 yards 200
Other building Police station
Train station Church
4-5
Tunnelbana station Synagogue
0 metres 200
Coach station Mosque
0 yards 200
Car ferry Viewpoint
Passenger ferry Railway line
Tram stop Pedestrian street Street name index on pp216–18
 TAN
A G AB A C K -

TAN
TA N
Karlbergs Slott S:t

PA

AGA

SGA
Eriksplan
TOMT EBOG ATAN

R
RÖR

NOR
PA

ING
STR

TA N

RI K
Ekelunds- AND

SL
SGA

VIK
bron TAN

TO
ÄN

GA

KT E
B I R K A S TA N
Karl TS VÄ G
berg RG S SL OT

KE

RSG
skan

KA
KA RL BE
ale

SAN
B IR
STADSHAGEN n RÖR
STRA N
ATA

G
Karlberg NDS

JAR
ENG
FRANZÉN- G AT
AN
GATAN Kar OD

DRE
lbe RKA
G SANKT
VÄG

T R MSG
ÄGEN rgs NO BI S:t Eriks- ERIKSPLAN
sjö

AL O B E R T
SV RR plan
n

Ö
L

BA
A
ED

KUN

USG
I CK
AR

MS
GSH

R
A
WARFVINGES

OLM

SG
M KLA

CAN
Stadshagen S ST
S TA D S H A G E N

UND
RAN RA GA

S TA D S -
D STR TA

VUL
G AN AT L
Ö N G AT A S -

VÖL
RA SA DS
LED AN
N NK IN

IG
S VA EN ATL A SM

HAGEN
SG T R VA D U RE N

EL
RGA
AT TA N U S
Sankt

DA
A TR
N STADS- Eriks-
IG

M
ST HAGS- bron
A A

M
D
SH PLAN TA

SG
N A JOHN N Barn
Stadshagen G BERGS husv
TA

AT
SV
PLAN
KUN ik e n
A S Ä ALS GSH

TA N
AN
SG
G TRÖ OLM
EN EN ME S ST
G G
EN
ÄG

A VÄ RGA R

N
AND

SGA
R SH TS TA N

AT A
DERS V

LG

TA N
D OT ÅNG

AN
A STRÖ
EL ST IDR MSG

HEM

ALSG
G AT
K
WELAN

GA
AN

F R ID
FLEM

IN E D
PL

IN G
Fridhemsplan G AT
NS

AN

R
SANKT GÖR A

E TA
GRU
BB
TA N

Fridhemsplan G AT E N S
N

FLEM
LI

A
ÄGE

ARB
LM S- IN G G
N

SGA

STI ERN HIE

S
Sankt Görans ATA N
D

VÄ GEN SAN

RIK
A RV

KT G
H

sjukhus

AN
ÖR
ERG

S:t Eriks
A

ANS
BÄR

G AT
G

KT E
sjukhus

G AT
AN
SV

F IN S
EN

ENS PA R
R IE B
G

VÄ G KGA
ER

TA N
SG

KUNGSHOLMEN

USG
G
EB

SAN
G YL
MA
A

EI
N

LE

CELSI
TI

JE
TA

CR N
IS

RS BO
GA EU
KR

VÄ TA TZ RG Fridhemsplan
SG KU

S
G N - KRONOBERGS- H O LN G S -

ERG
EN THORILDS- ATA FRIDHEMS-
PLAN N PARKEN MSG
VÄG EN PLAN
DRO TTN ING HO LMS NOB
MSV ÄGE N HA

AN
DRO TTN ING HOL NT
VE
KRO

RK

G AT
Thorildsplan LINDHAGENS- AR
AN

PLAN R
ÅL SYS SLO MA NSG M IT
G ATA G S-
AM
AT

IS G BER
N

G JÖ L O F
N
BS . GA GSG
D IN
TA

TA
SG

HO N ATA
N
O
GR
GA

VS
EM
G

NS

INUSGR-
LS

IKS
IDH

NO

B
MA

SG

LE
EL

GAM
DE RR
ER
W

SV

P L AV O N
FR

LA N M HAN
TEN
ÖR

G A T M A N S RE N

GE ÄL TVER
RL

KARG
S

RL
GJ

Väster- AR P ON T ON J Ä R- ATAN
HEM

ÖF
VÄ

TU
KA

SG bron
N
ST PA RKE N
SGATA
ST

RA PON
ER

ND TON
POL

JÄR
TA N
A
BR

IN

G AT
SON
R

AN
NR
O

TZA

PI LG A
G A T VÄ R D S

PON
.
NSG

RÅLAMBSHOVS- TON
S
SVE

ERIC

JÄ R
BAL

RÅLAMBSVÄGEN
AN

G AT
PMA

PARKEN
WENNERBERGSG.

AN
EN

ENS

JOHN
ÄG

CHA

EHR
NE

SV

Svenska Dagbladet NOR

RM
DD
DF

Dagens ÄLA
FYRV RSTR
AR

SU

Nyheter ERKA AND

RBAC
ED

Riks-
TE

KEN
AN
SM
N

T arkivet
ELL S G A
GJ Ö RW

WIVALL
MARIEBERG
IUSGAT
AN

MARIEBE
RGSPARKE
N SMEDSUDDEN
Väster-
bron
Riddarfjärden

M Ä L A R E N

Bellmanmuseet
KA

KN
RL

AP
E LÅNGHOLMEN
HÄ

R STAVÄGEN
LL

ALSTAVIKS

N
SBACKE
SV

GE LM
HO
Ä

N
NG
LÅ
VÄGEN

SO F IE B E RGS V Ä GEN
LÅN Pålsunds- RAND
Liljeholmska GHO
LMSMUREN LARST
nalen bron R MÄ
Väster- SÖDE SP A R K
EN
ANDERS REI bron ND
MERS VÄG P Å LS U
Lång- ndet
LÅN

PÅLSUN

Pålsu
-
holms- LORENS .
bron BERGSG SG
EB O RG
H EL EN
G

REIMERSHOLME PÅLSUNDS-
DS GA

Reimersholms- PARKEN
DR AGA bron
V IN
TAN
TOBA

R SG SGATAN
.
LV

BE R

HÖGALID
HOL

LM
FOLKSK
KA

HO
V

HÖGALIDSGATAN
BERGSU

ERS
PO

KSSPI
GSU NDS STRAN

SÖDERMALM
BOR

REIM
SLIPGAT

HÖ GALI DS- Högalids-

MSG
OLEG.

kyrkan
N

PARKEN
GAR
NDS

NARG
AN

AN
DSGAT
ATA

GATA

STA
VERK
GAT

Hornstull
AN

N
D
 RUDDAMMS-
PARKEN
R O S L A G ST U L L
Medicin- Wenner-Gren N
ATA

BI
G
ALS

GA
historiska museet Center N
ERD GE

RR
CED VÄ

Å
Karolinska STIC
KELB
sjukhuset SVEA- ÄRSV
NORRTULL
PLAN

K
Ö
AN

R
AT

SB
N AN SG VA

Ä
TA AT AR

R
G

S
M
GA GA GE LH

DA
NS LIN

BI
IN

V
IO G A Ä

HA
YN G

NN
VANADIS- LL

RG
SV
AT SANKT
E
ST A
EM

N
GA
A LUNDEN VÄ

ER
ERIKS-
RR OR AN

GA

EA
PARKEN
AT G
NO AGATAN NG EN

TA

RO
IDU

JA
VÄST

VÄ
UP

N
MAN

SL
ATA N

NAGAT

Stefanskapellet

RL
AG
PL

TRE Tekniska
LILJOR
AN

SG
Högskolan

SG
GE
HÄ

N
DS
AN

AT
TA
ERI K S G

AT
GA
GA
LS

AN
VÄSTE RÅSGATAN EJ

N
IN

FR
TA

AN
EN
GE

ÄG
GA

ISV
SA N K T

NO

BR
D
TA

N
NA TA

AG
N

RR

VA GA

EV
S
NN
TU
VÄ G A

ÄG
HA
GÄV Matteus ENKEHUS-
LEG PARKEN RU

EN
LL
S T TA

ATA Kyrka RB

GA
N SU N
MA N

SG

TA

BIRGER JARLSGATAN
DA
RÖ BRIN

GA
VANADIS-
GA
AT
HE GATA
NN
DA KEN

LA

PLAN

TA
N
IM N

AN

DE

TU
A
BE

AN JARLA-
GA

DA

N
-

T O

LE
PLAN
RG

GA AN
TA

LS-

EJ

GA
AT
S-

FR G N
N

AR TA

TA
HÄLSINGE- A JARLA-
VID SG PARKEN

N
HÖJDEN RD

VA S A S TA D E N Stads- VA

SV
SÄTER- RK
TÄPPAN biblioteket MA

FRY ATA
AN

EA
Odenplan AT

G
XE N
HÄ

SG
GY ATAN

Oden- AN
ÄG ENODEN-

LLS
HN
G

KA RL BE RG SV Rådmans- AT
IDÉ

plan
LS

RE SG

-
NO

OBSERVA- gatan EN
IN

PLAN
N-

DÖ
T LO
GS
RR
GE

TORIE- D
SIG

N G

BE
KU
TU
GA

LUNDEN
VE

Gustav Vasa

LN
TU

LLS

S:t Eriksplan kyrka

TA

GA

SG
Judiska
NA

Observatorie-
GA

VÄ
GÄ

AT
museet
GA
GA

museet
TA

AN
STR

TA

TA

AN
GE
N

AT
TO

IKE

Handels-
N

SG
N N AN
GA

högskolan
RSG

TA
N
A M TA
N
AT A
TA

EG ÅD
SA

GA

LU
I N
NG TA R ÉR
OR
ATA

LT M

NT
E AT GA GN
NS TE

MA
UP

OD VASAPARKEN V E
ÄT

ER ST
N

KA
PL

NG
AR

OB
TEK

KU
VÄ

Schefflelerska Rådmans-
RG
AN

N
GA

gatan TA
ATA
S

Palaset G
NO

SEN GA
TA
TM

DS

RO AR
N
N
LO
GA

AK
AN

SANKT
AN M
AT
G

ERIKSPLAN Sabbats-
NA

TA

DÖ
RG Jobannesv
GA

KA
bergs AN Strindbergs- E G N É
N
GA

AT Kyrka

BEL
TA

SG museet T
HO

sjukhus
TA

N Adolf
N
DA

MA
SG

NSG
N

LLÄ

D Blå Fredriks
DR

ATL RÅ
UND

GAT AS-
LA

ND

Tornet Kyrka
OT

AN TEGNÉR- ATA
VÖL

AR
N S

GA

TN

LUNDEN
TA LL

TO

TA
GA

N
GA STA

GA
ING

ATLASM
RSG

TA

UREN AN KO
TA
K
LO

AT YR
RÄ

N
GA

G K
N

AN AR IKS
ND

AT AK DR
TA

OL

M RE AN
RG FF AT
OF
N

M Dansens
NÉ KA OL ELG
SG

KLAR N Hus AD NN
ASTR G TA TU
AT

ANDSL TE GA
AN

EDEN N AN Hötorget
KUN TO LLI AT Central-
GSH WA SG badet TA
OLM RS HU GA
SS Bar GA BA
RN ES
TR
AN nhu TA
N AL
M Hötorget
ÅNG
STRÖ D svik OF
P AT
AN
MSG
en OL RG
SG
BE
P. O. NORRA EL Konsert-
HALL AP

GRU
PO
GATAMANS
TVÄRLHEMS
GRÄ
ND GRUBBENSRI
Barnhus-
bron
BANTORGET
NORRMALM HÖ-
huset
BBE
VA

N TORGET
GATA NS
TA

AN
SER
MÅ

AN
GE

AT
TS GAF

AT
SA
TAN
A

OG
N

S:t Eriks SG Hötorget

LA

GE
S LÖ

BR
LIND RL-GUST

NG
ÖS

KL
GA

RG

LGA

sjukhus KU ML
A
JD
AR
TR

AT

GA
STED

GA

TA N
TA

AN
EGA

AN

FLEM
A

R-
TA

INGG
OR

GA
ATAN

N CA

N
N

ATAN YG N
N

B R G ATA
RA
GATA

JÄ
INSG

EEL

AN
KY
RN
IUSG

AT
GATA

RK

SG
VÄ

Kungs-
GENT
EMS

Rådhuset T-Cen- SERGELS

TE

City- EL
OG

HJÄR bron U TORG

CELS

GS
RM

NEG termi- tralen AM

SCH

AT
POLH

GNE

S
G
WAR

nalen
AN T-Centralen
IN

A
BL

R
TE AT
AL

S
RA A

EK

MÄ SG
N

SL

N
RG
GATA

TA
HO

KUN
IN

Kulturhuset &
GSH GS
GA BE
NOR

RO A
GA

OLM
LM

N Stadsteatern
SGAT KU SB
NG ND AR
AN KL
N
S

KU TRA
DR

EN
KU

Rådhuset S
RS

OT

KT
TE

Klara
NG
PIPE

DU
TN

POLISHUS-
RR

BERG T-Centralen Kyrka

SB

N
VIA
ING

SGAT PARKEN TA
AS
RO

AN S GA
Kl RAND

KUN G
RG TTU
GA
U SG

SE
ST

GSKL E VA LES
TA
ar

B
N

Rådhuset IPPA RA KU
B R IN

N R
HE
a

A RG
KL
KUNGS-
ARG
ATAN

KA
GS-

HAN Stockholm C MA
KYRK S
PLANO-
GAM

HOLM

TVER BOLINDERS
Sjö KL NS
ACKEN
MÄT

KUN

KAR BERG UA
NEG

GATA PLAN AR RD S
AN

S OB

HOLMEN
GATA AS KA
N
N TR JAK
PARM
G

AN Dansmuseet
AT A N

RA A

G AT

DS
SB

LE D E N
Konst-
KAPLAN
SÖD

Rådhuset TEGEL- akademien

EELE
P IL G

BACKEN Regerings-
GAR
S

VA R kansliet
HAM SHOLM

G AT
AN
SCH

AN HANTVERKAR Stadshus-
S

GATAN
G R Ä LU N D IN

NPL

bron
ENS
IN SG

RAGNAR Vasa-
W E STK O B

G ATA

Central-
ND

S OW

NOR ÖSTBERGS bron bron

KUN

R M KUNG- PLAN
JA
VA R

ÄLA HOLMS-
RST Stadshuset
RAN TORG
GAR

D
D
NORR MÄLARSTRAN Riddar-
Riddarfjärden huset
 DR

PL
O

AN
TT

TE
NI

S
RINGEN

RH
TEKNIK EN

T
NG

O
ÄG

AG

R
SV
KR

BRINEL

Ä
KLA

SV
RP

N
IS

ÄG
TO

G
TI

PPJ

EN
AR

S
NA

LVÄG

V
SK

AK

Ä
S

FI

G
VÄ

RINGEN

TSV
EN

E
TEKNIK

N
G

VÄ
ÄG

AS
EN

FI

FIS
SO
Tekniska

KA
NG
NI
LIN Högskolan

RT O
DST

TT
EDT
KE

O
SVÄ

DR
GEN

RPS
AC
SB

VÄ
AR

GE
EN N
QU

GE
G
VÄ

N
TS
OS

LIN
DST
ÄS
KP
OR
VÄ
Stockholm Ö ED
TSV
ÄG
TR
N GÖ
AN

DI
EN

GÄRDET
ÄG
N A-
AT

Sophia-
LI AN
TA G

SV
RG

Lärkstaden AT
GA DUN

hemmet
SG
TY

FR FIA
TA S-
ÖL

Tekniska

T
IG OLAUS PETRI-
GA DER

SO

AN
N
SK

GA Högskolan
SG

Stadion PARKEN

TN
Ö GAT
NG
L
BA

V IK

ST

LÖJ
AN
NI
TAN

ER

SA
T
GLE

OT

M D

N
LILL-JANS
SGA

A EL
DR

LM PLAN
UG

SG

ST A
SG
D

AT
VA AR

AN
ERY

AT AN R MF AN

R
A AT ÄN N
LH

GAT
N SG GE EL
ND

N GSRIN TS
K MA AL Försvars- TA
GA

AN
DA

RGS
Engelbrekts- TA
A D GA
AN

RÅ högskolan N
LA

AT
S
R kyrkan DANDERYDS- AN

LBE
AT

B O B ER G M

RIG
LA
AN

PLAN

LE

AN
AN
TSG

DAH
Stadion

TIL
V
AT

G
ST

AT
KA
Ä VÄ

AR
AT

RIN
EK

RU
LL

ERIK
DB GA SKÄR
AG

G
G.

RG
GE

GF
LBR

ER TA S-
AG
AR

N
EN GS

JUN
N
LL

PA
MM

AN

N
OR
GE

GA
ATA

TESSIN-
N

TA
VI

EP
HA

-
EN

N
AT

ATA

NS PARKEN
FL

DE AN
REG

SK
TAN

O R A P P RUNEBERGS-

AN
EG

ROG

TR

AT
TU

PLAN
EGA
AH

SG
NYB

ERIKSBERGS- N ÖS
TA

D IN
YLL

TE
EV

GA
BR

PARKEN RM

HE
GR

AL
N
SIB

RUN E RGS MS
EB STE
TA
ERIKSBERGSG

NB GA

E R IK
ERIKSBERGS- OC
T Karlaplan
IGA

KSG AN
PLAN .
KA
DAH
N

Stadion TYS
RL
REG

LER

KBA
TA

GA AN
. AV GAT
LBER
GA

RG
ERIN

SG ATA BÄLT
TIL

ON ÄG N
RE

RS HUMLEGÅRDEN GSA
GS

N
IVE
AR

GE
AN

EN
STU
GA

Ä
AV
LLÉN
TAN
N

RT
TA

AT
TA

VÄ
JOHANNES

VGA
N

CAR
RI

JUTAS BAC
KE Kungliga KO
RG

DEL
ATA
M

MM
GA

LG
BO

Biblioteket END Karlaplan

GRE
PA

ÖR
G

UG
RE

LIN SGA
HUS- TA N N-

A GATAN
DROTTNING NÉG
GFR

EP

TZE
TU

GRÄND KARBACKEN ATA KARLA- L Ü ATA N

GATAN

SNIC N
SK
JUN

PLAN G
N
SM ÄND
GR

ATA

ENGELBREKTS-
ÖSTERMALM
AL

PLAN HU
TYST
A

ML
HEG

TAN

EG
EV

RES GATA
GSG

DAVID BA
GA ÅR
DSG
SGA
BRA

GR

ATA
BER

N
JOR

NA

G ATA N Sture- Östermalmstorg

BRUNNS
NY
MA

gallerian &
GU
NO RR LA ND

Kungs- STURE- Sturebadet OR MSH-

KUNGSGATAN ÖSTER-
RV

tornen PLAN NSG

MALMS- Hedvig
Öster- TORG LIN
NÉ
TA N

malms- Eleonora GA
AR GATAN TA N
N

LÄS TM AK
AV

Kyrka
ATA
GA
BIBLIOTEKSGA

OXTORGSG. hallen
SG ATA N

BRO

EG

GSG ATA N Östermalms- STO

JAK OBS BER
YLL

ÄG

torg RG
NY

Armé- AT
AN
SIB

AN museum
MA LM SK

MU EL SG AT
TAN

MÄ ST ER SA
TA N

Swedish Museum
ATA

EN

Kungl. of Performing Arts R Historiska

RE GE RIN GS

SGA

TAN Dramatiska ID
TA N

SMÅLANDSGA
EVG

DA museet
Teatern RG
TA N
ILL NA DS

AN

NORR- AT
IG A
GR

MALMSTORG Hovstallet AN
TA N
RM
IG A

GA NS-
N

Hallwylska
GN
ATA

TA

VÄ K APTE
STY

GA

museet PNA NS
LER

MA

N
SO RSTE

HAMNGATA
RG

R
GATA N

NYBRO- G GATA
BERZELI GATAN
NÉR

N RIDDAR
VÄSTRA

PPA

PLAN
T IL

. PARK
NS
EV

ÖMSG
GATA N

KSTR
TO
SKE

BA

Berns’
AR

NÄC Nybroplan
GR

Salonger
KUN
TRÄDGÅ

BRUNKE- Synagogan STRANDVÄGEN

GST

BERGS- Kungs-
TORG träd- Musikaliska
RDSGAT

SEE MAPS
RÄD
MA

gården BL 4–5 FOR

AS N
LM

YB
GÅR

IE
TA

Kungsträd- ENLARGEMENT
TO HO RO
Ny
T

AN

GA

Jakobs
OR

gården RG LM KA IN THIS AREA

br
G.
DSG

Kyrka JE
S Ladugårdslands-
GS

ov
ER

- N
AT

JAKOBS BL
G

ik viken
L

KARL AS
TE
ATA

Medelhavs-
AL

AN

TORG
XII:S GAIEHO en
ST

AT

museet Kungl. TORG Grand TA LM Nordiska

Junibacken
N

RG

N S-
N GUSTAV Operan
TA ST museet
BLASIE-
Hôtel
GA

GA ADOLFS RÖ
MK
LA

N TORG
TA AJ GALÄR-
VS

GA Arvfurstens EN

HOLMEN
DS
HO

FRE Palats (UD) PARKEN

Ström-

GA
TA
N
r rst
rö m STRÖM-
PARTERREN
bron National-
museum JE
N DJUR-
No
GÅRDEN
ÖM A
N

STR RIKS- Medeltidsmuseum IK

SE
or

Riks- PLAN U
N

bron M
rs

Helgeandsholmen
Ä NR A

Vasa-
KE

LOGÅRDS-
tr

OB R

TRAPPAN Djurgården
Östasiatiska museet
BR NO

Riksdags- n N KE
N
Livrust-
öm

huset ale J E A C Museet

an S K A N B kammaren
Stallbron
MYNT-
llk T T E J O
Sta S LO L Kungliga
GAMLA Skeppsholms-
bron
SKEPPSHOLMEN Spritmuseum

S TA N
Bondeska TORGET Slottet Moderna Musei-
Palatset
TG
museet fartygen
YN
M
 Kultur-
Kungs- Katolska

RE GE RIN GS
SG.

VÄSTRA
huset & RFF
Stadsteatern träd- Kyrkan N D OSynagogan
HRE

DR

TAN
KL Brunke- R. gården WA
Lant-

KUN
- SG Musikaliska

OT

SGA
KE bergs- K O CK
AR

TRÄDGÅR
UN G. torg mäteri-
BR RGS

TN

NAL
A
backen
BE

GST
Ö.

GATA N
IN

E
Klara

ARS
KY

GG

RÄD
Kyrka

DSGATAN
RK

AT
Blasieholms

N
OG

Jacobs

GÅR
S. Torg

A
AN
RA Kungsträdgården
AT

Kyrka

T
KLA

A
A

MA

DSG
AN
KL RGR
TV

GR

G
KY

AT
CITY
AR .
Ä

L
BL
UG
RK

EV
LM

L
AS

.
Kungsträdgården Jakobs

ATA
TT

RG
A
OG

A
VA N IE

GR
TA

E
HO

TO

AT
.

GA Torg

ÄN
Karl

S
LM

N
S

TE
LE

RG
AN XII:s SG
AT
B L AGrand
SIE-

D
U AT
RK RG Torg

SG
A
HE MA
K
Kungliga
AN
S

AT
AN
DR
D U Medelhavs- Operan

AN
K AR
museet Hôtel
OT
RÖ

Dansmuseet N AN Gustav
AT
DB

TA Adolfs ST
TN

GA G RÖ
OD

S Torg
K OB
E DS MK
AJ
IN

JA
G.

FR EN
AK

SÖ
GG

Konst- Arvfurstens

D
AD

RA
akademien Palats
EM

AT

Ström-

BL
IG

bron

A
Röd-
AN
R.

öm

SI
bod-

EH
torget Rosenbad s tr Ström-

O
Tegel- Rosen- rr parterren

LM
backen bad AT
AN No

S
MG

No
Medeltidsmuseum
RÖ

rrb
ST Riks-

N
bron

ro

o
Riks-
plan

r
r
Riksdags- LOGÅRDS-

s
Vasa- Helgeands- huset TRAPPAN

t
bron
holmen n EN

r
Central-
n ale A CK

ö
bron Strömsborg- l lka JEN NB
Sta
A JO

m
bron SK LE Logården
Ströms- TT
borg SLO
Stallbron Kungliga Slottet
KANSLIKAJEN
Mynt- (Royal Palace) Livrust-
Norra EN
AJ kammaren
HÖ

torget
Järnvägs- SK
GV
RÅ

N
Ri

bron U TA Yttre EN
RH
RI

AK
dd

CK
D

GASA
DD

BA
HU

A Borggården
TST
ar

TTS
LVIIG
DAR- AR DD T Kungl.
AR

R.
YN
ho

PRÄSTGATA
SG

A RID RI SLO
ER

N KIV KLOCKG
NORR SHAMNE Riddar-
HU

Tessinska Myntkabinettet ÄND

R.
lm

M JUTARG
RA

G
SG

R.
HOLM huset
sk

AT KOLM R
SSE
SC SEN ÄN
RO G

ÄTARGR Palatset FG
R

A
an

Bondeska . RA
ÄN

Birger N
HE H D

KÄLLARGR

OLOFS GR.KYRKOGR.

EG
N
al

BO
TRÅ

TEL
RI AN

palatset STENBASTUGR.
FINSKA
D

Jarls
en

S
R

N
NG ES

N
KEN Stor- ARL
LLH

A
AT BRIN RK
NGS

Torn STORKYRKO
kyrkan PPA D
IG SKE GRÄN
US
TRÄDGÅRDS-

R Stenbockska Riddarhus-
UND

KE torget BRE DGR ÄND

GR

R.
INK N-
Wrangelska YC
P. FREDAGS GR.

S. SASSES GR.

Palatset

SKEPPSBROKAJEN
KEG
TVÄRGR.
SKEPPAR

EN
UN
BR PMA
.

TR
.

Palatset RÅM R. TRÄD-

Riddarholms- ST. G R. RG Börsen GÅRDSG. KRÅKGRÄN
SG KA D
KÖ

Evert bron GE . AN ENS NYG RÄN D

IN R EKTR.
Taubes Ä LS TIIG R .
S P Stor- KÖPMANGATAN Köpman-
Birger Jarls H A RG R. G BRUNNSGRÄND
Terrass G. IGN D R A G GR . torget torget
SOL
GAMLA
Torg N KÄ RES R. Brända
RÄ S A G
EN SG VER PP KS Tomten SKOTTGRÄND
BACK
S GATAN

GATAN

Riddarholms- GÅ Ö TA FIC
SK

A
GELSK
SJÄLAGÅRDSG.

N .
VI D ND
OM

N EN

S TA N
WRA kyrkan Munk- N K STORA HOPAREGR
.
E RÄ IN R.
AK

SÖ bron SV G R G DR

RIDDAR-
RID DR S KB RS AKEN
ON
SV

LÅNG

ED
AR

BAGGEN

S GRÄN
DA A KÅ DOI R.
AR

D
P

M RG
GA
ST

Post- YXS BE
RÄ

RH
G. FERKEN
T

DA
OR

VÄ

O N
TA

S
S T LÅN

ÖSTER

LM E D U G RÄ
GYMNAS

ST
PSBR
ST

RÄ ND
A

museum
HOLMEN
NK L. HO
AN
GA G

S
ND
E

RI SK PARE
R

KI A SKOLGR.
GA

TYSK
TA GA

G .
HA KB PELIK GAFFREL
NY

TA

KÅ
N TA

M ANSG
NE R. R. GR.
N
GA

N G Tyska Tyska
M

LI
IEGR.

N
TA

S
LL

E Brunns-
UN

DT Kyrkan
N

K
SKEP
A

EL IN plan JOHANNESGRÄND
KB

NF
PR

BR
RO

NY

HÖ
ÄS
MUN

S. BEN

A
GA

SC
GA

TG

S K
TA

TA

Tyska PACKHUSGRÄND
AT

TY
KBR

ND
N

Gamla Stan MÄ
A

-
ICKEB

Stallplan
AR
N

RÄ
LA SG AG
OHA

RÄN IGS

RT DT DR ND
R.
. G OTZ

E G .
D

M T R R Ä R
UN OR
TUL
NS
MNE

JO TO G S
G LGR
ÄND
GR . TR

KB GE LE EN
RO T Kornhamns-
N

CK Järn- N. BAN
DS M

torg N
LE FU torget KO
GR
DE .
.

N S . BA
GSG
AL

NKO
Riddarfjärden KO GR.
IEW

N. D
RN
TOR

RYC
HA KES
TR

S. D GR.
MN
JÄRN

RY
CK
ESG
R.
Sluss-
Söderström plan RÄNTMÄSTAR-
TRAPPAN
Central- Karl
bron
PEN N

Johans Slussen
ÖR B R O

Torg
Södra Sluss-
AM

Järnvägs- Sjöbergsplan
S

terras-
SÖDER bron Kar
PP

MÄLAR sen l Jo
STRAN han
E
TSJ

Mariaberget D sslu
SK

Guldfjärds- sse
SAL

PRYSSG plan
n
RÄN
D
Slussen
PUS

D
GRÄN
MA

ATA

GULD Södermalms-
SKOLGR

N
G ATA
TEG

BASTU
RIA

torg
Ö. SLU SSG

Katarina-
TRAPP

hissen
RÄN
UGGLE
.

N
ATA AN
VAS
TG
G AT Stads- Slussen
GRÄ

GÖT
BLEC

TA A
D

YRK
GR.

TAN museet SA LT SJ
NNK GA
Ö U TF
ND

A RT EN
BRÄ
BEL
KTOR

RNS
G AT

HO NDES
P. MYCKE
Slussen
LMA
NSGR

MAR

BA
AN

MARIAGRÄ
ÄND

NSG

N ND
ATA
IAG.

Maria
NSG Magdalena K ATA
HOR
ATA

KLEVG RINA
Kyrka RÄND VÄGE
N

SÖDERMALM
N

G LA
SB R U
URVÄD KS
ERSGRÄ
ND
REPS

Maria- Mosebacke
GÖ

torget
LAGA

TGA

N
RAGV

ATA A Mosebacke
FISKARGATAN
LSG G AT Torg
RGAT

PAU ENS
KT HÖK
TAN
ALDSG

SAN
TE NSG.
AN

SVAR
.
 N
y STR AN DV ÄG EN
b
ro
v
N
Y ik
B
R
O e
n
N

K
TA

A
GA

JE
N
DJUR-
HOLMEN GÅRDEN
AN

Ladugårdslands-
AT
RG

NYB

viken
GA
LA

Junibacken Nordiska
VS

ROK

museet
HO

Musei-
AJE

parken
Galär-
National- parken
N

museum
N
JE
A Estonia-
IK
SE minnes-
H

U Vasa-
A

värden
M

M museet
N
EN

Djurgården
EN
N KA
BÄ R
O OR

Östasiatiska
BR N

Skeppsholms- museet
bron
Tyghus-
plan ÖS
SL TR
UP A
SK BR
Batteri- JU OB Museifartygen
LS ÄN
parken VÄ KE
GE N
N
Moderna
SV Skeppsholms- museet

SKEPPS-
EN kyrkan
SK
SU
VÄSTRA

ND Exercis- ArkDes
HOLMEN
SV plan
ÄG
EN

N
Amiralitets-
ÄGE
BR

parken DSV
OB

af Chapman SUN
NSK
ÄN

SVE
KE

Svensksundsparken
A N S V.

Skeppsholmen
N

Långa RADEN
LÅNGA
GM

Raden
AMIR

Holm-
FL AG NGEN
amiralens GÅ
A
Torg GRÖN
AL

N
RA KE
SV

ST N
ÄG

Ö BÄ
EN

EN B RO
Konst- BROBÄNK
högskolan SÖDRA

Kastellholms-
bron
S t r
ö m

KA ST EL
BA CK ENL-
m e

Kastellholmen
ÖR
KA

LO
STE

Kastell-
n

GS
LLH

parken
VÄ
OL

GE
M

N
S
KA
JE
N

S a l t s j ö n

ST ST
AD AD
SG SG
ÅR ÅR
DS DS
LE HA
DE MN
N EN
GA
TA
N
KE
KATAR INA

KA
KY RK OB AC

TA
RI STAD
NA SGÅR
DSHA
VÄ MNE
GE N
N
 BO Filmhuset
VÄGRG-
EN
LINDARÄNGSV ÄGEN
VA
LH
-

AL
GAT ELDS

LA GRE
AN
F

TAN S-
VE
ITEN

GA TOCK VÄ VO
NE
GE HAK-
GA NÉR-
BRE

SSE
N

NS
N BERGET VÄG
TA

TS

RIG
AG
BA

WIT

ATA

N
N

ATA
Ladugårdsgärdet

N
VA

TA
SG
L HA
G U S TAV RN
LL

GA
AV
ADOLFS- TAP ÄG
TIE
EN
PA R K E N GAT TO-
KA AN
NS LADUGÅRDSGÄRDET
NS

TV-huset
RL
LLE

IER
AV
GY

ÄG
ST

EN
EN
OX

N
A
AT

SK
G
Sveriges
ARP
ES

LIN Radio
RD

ÖGATAN
NÉ Berwald-
GA hallen Tekniska
Ä

TA N
G

museet &
ULR SVÄ G EN
IKA Engelska RD SB RU N N Telemuseet
G
GA
TA N Kyrkan D JU RG Å
SA S T R AN D

GE N
VÄ
I

G EN
LOV

RIE
- Sjö-
ATON N historiska

M US EI VÄ
STO OR TA
RG LAB GATA L GA
BE museet
NOBEL- Diplomatstaden NO Etnografiska
KRUTHUS- BE
RN F
museet
PARKEN PLAN AD OLKE
OT
TE
SV
ÄG

Djurgårdsbrunnsviken

DE BESC
KÄRLEKS- HES VÄ
UDDEN G
LU RO
ST SE
HU ND
S AL
PORTEN SV
SI
R ÄG
IS EN
Nordiska EN H
ÄG O EN
LSV
V SS Rosendals
Museet SV
A

A
ND Ä Slott &
T ERR

S E G
RO EN Trädgårdar
S
L
DA

SÖDRA
VARVSPORTEN
N

S E
RO
DJURGÅRDEN
ELIUSPORTEN
HAZ
Biologiska OR
AN
Museet GE
V ÄGEN

RI
BOLLNÄS- VÄ
TORGET G EN
OVS

Skansen G
HAZELIUSBACKEN

Aquaria
Liljevalchs VÄ
NS
ISH

Konsthall A
M
FAL

LL
SIR

BE
KE
NB

ABBA
ERG

VA VÄ G

The Museum
DS

A
LM EN
SG

NN
MÄ D DJURGÅRDSSLÄTTEN BELLMANSRO
UN

ALL RÄN N SINGELBACK

G LÅ CKE EN
SBA
NG LID
N

SOL EN
VÄ G
GE

A
Allmänna GA RDS
RGÅ
Ä

gränd TA
SV D JU
N D BER
DR G
G

ÅR
AF PONTINS VÄG

GSJ
ÉE

RG
AN EDA

Gröna Lund DJU ÖL

UN
DSV
BR

PRINS EUGENS V
N

E ÄG ÄG
BE

NORDENSKIÖLDG YS ÄG EN
R

SV IK SV
CK

Djurgårds-
HO

staden
LM

Ryssviken
VS

Beckholmssundet
Beckholms-
bron F R I S E N S PA R K

Beckholmen Waldemarsviken
BISKOPS
Waldemarsudde

S a l t s j ö n

ÖSTRA
LON

TE
GE MASTHAMNEN
L VI
DO

en

KS S
LI N G A N
al
NV

an
v i EN
IA

TEGELVIKS-
sk
N
DU

KT PLAN
FÅFÄNGAN Saltsjökvarn
AM

EN
TH

Fåfängan
an
AS
D
M
 RÄ

LO
VG

LOUD

UD
RY
TS

DS
DSVÄGEN
BA

VÄ
CK
LIN

GE
DA EN
L i l l a

N
R Ä N G S VÄ
GEN

KA
DROTTNING-
V ä r t a n

KN
BERGET

ÄSV
ÄGEN
Kaknäs-
tornet
MÖ
RK
AK

VÄGEN
ÄS
RO

D
JU KN
KE

RG KA
N
L ID

Å
RD
O VÄ

SB
RU
GEN

NN
SV
Ä KAKNÄSHAGEN
G
EN

HU
ND
UD
DS
VÄ
GEN
K Ä G E LBANESTIGEN
ESCHES
DE B VÄG

Djurgårds-
RO SEN DA brunnsbron
LSVÄG EN
Dj
ur
IS

gå
RA

rd
EL

sb
AF

ru
nn
ST

s ka
RÖ

na l KANA
M

en LALL
S

ÉN
VÄ
FR

G
ED

PRINS CAR
LS VÄ
RI

G
K
BL

MANIL
OM
S
VÄ
G

Lilla
L AVÄ G

FRE Sjötulls-
D bron
RI
K
G

B LO
VÄ

MS
VÄ Isblads-
GS

G
EN

ED
kärret
OR

EL
ST
EB

AM
ING

SV
ÄG
AN
ESS
INS

PRINSE SSA
PR

N MÄRTAS
V
ÄG

DJURGÅRDSVÄG
EN B LOCK H U S R I NG
EN
SJÖ
TUL
LSB
N

E ACK
ÄG EN
V Thielska
PS
KO Galleriet
IS
B

Blockhusudden
BL O
CKHU
SRINGEN

UDDEN

S a l t s j ö n

Kvamholmen
 RIDDAR- STORKYRKO
HUS-TORGET .
EG R
Wrangelska Stenbockska UNK
RÅM
Palatset Palatset AG

NY
OR

ST AT
ST

G
OR AN
Evert BIRGER JARLS

A
MUNK- ÅS
Taubes Terrass TORG BRON G ÄND S
GR ED
Riddarholms- SM
Post- YX KÅK
R i d d a r f j ä r d e n kyrkan
museum

LI
M

LL
UN

A
M HÖ

KB
UN SC

RO
KB

G
RO
LE TY
D

Central-
bron

SÖDER MÄ
LARSTRAN
SSONSGATAN PRY
D

TORKEL KNUT
MARIABERGET GRÄ SS-

PUST
MA
ND

B LE C

B E LL
E N SKINNARVIKS- L. SKINNAR

RIA
SKOLGRGLEGR.
CK

VIKSGR.

EGRÄ
EN

A PA R K E N TAN
EOLSG.

SB BASTUGA

MAN
KTO

UG

TRAPP
EN
CK

CH

KATTGR
VIGSBERGSG

RNS
ARV SBA

YTTER

SG A

ND
SG ÜN

UD
AN
NEBORG

GR.
IK

M N LA AST G AT
HELE GE

BAST
GAMDAG

TA N
L
TAV
AN SRIN KOLM
STA TV

.
AT VIK LUN TA N

GRÄ
SG TAN INNAR
Å
AGA Maria
INN

UG.
LID SGA YRK
RDSGR

SK NK Magdalena
SK

A RÄN
ÄRGR

ND
G V B
HÖ HO

TORK
Kyrka
AN AN
G AT G AT

RAGVA
TA N
NE

DA AGA NS MARIA-
LUN YRK HOR
KRISTI

RING

EL K
TORGET
NNK
BRÄ
ANSG

LDSG
TIMM

KVA
ANSGARIE-

NU
V

N
PARKEN GATA
ARIE

.
Zinkensdamm S
PAUL

RN
TSSO
KRIST ATAN

TAN
KAGA T

ERMA

BJÖ
SANK

GATA
G

NKYR N Maria-
BRÄN
G

TA
INEH

RGA
NSGA
Maria-

RNG
KA torget

N
KMA

SWE
torget
KRU
OVS-

SGATA
FREDMANSG

ÅRD
TA N
HOR EN
KROK

TA N

DENB
A
RNSG R IT G
R.
N
NS-

HO A TA

SGA
SA M SGA
ULL

O
YXK GATA

RGSG

TA N
LMA
R ÅRDS
EN- WOL ÄSTG
IA PR
RIN

DRAKS- MAR

ATAN
ROSE

BERG N
GATA
GVÄ

IA
MAR DSGATA TA N
TA GÅR SGA
NLUN

O LGA PRÄST BERG

IA S K HÖG JELMSG
GEN

MAR T EKEH
BENG N FATBURS-
DSGA

ZINKENS VÄG ATA

MA BU RSG PARKEN
SS TI G
EN RIA FAT
TAN

N SV IK BAN Södra
HOR GAT TAN TA
A U RSGA Station UN NSGA
FATB UR S BR
Å N G H Ä S T- FATB
PARKEN Södra Stationsområdet

C ALBÄND
A
GAT
TIMM

Södra Station N

GR
TANTOLUNDEN VAR
RS K

ERTS
BU
FAT
ERMA ND
D

ÉN
SALL
ÄN

LD-
GRÄ

AN

SIAR
S K ÖTA N ALM
GR

ERM S G AT
ULÅ
NS-

GA SÖD
S

LEHUÄND

LAD
AN

GATA
GR
M

S
ER

NU
MAG
SENS
EK

N
MAR TAN

TA N
JÄ G A

GA
GA

TA N
TO ENS
NDS
MOR

LUTH ND
T ID E

GRÄ ENLU
ROS
R G AT

L IU S

Rosenlunds
AN
K EN

sjukhus
G AT

ERIKSDALS- BLEKINGE-
SOC SJU TÄPPAN
C

KER L U N D E N TB A KH
AN

GRÄ BRUKS- US TA N
ND IN BA EGA
ASS

FL CK IN G
BLEK
GRIN

EN
ESSORSG

Södersjukhuset RI
DSG

NG
Årsta- VÄ
N

bron GE
TA

ERIKSDALS- Sachsska A N
Årsta barnsjukhuset H SG
LUNDEN SA C
holmar
TA N
GA

JG
N

AN
ATA

OTE
KER

GAT
PSG

T IM
VIC

RÅG
RA

V IC K ERIKSD
ERGA ALSGAT
TA N AN

ERIKSDALSLUNDEN

Å r s t a v i k e n

Å R S TA
 KEN Stor- Kungl.

VÄS T R
BRIN Tessinska ArkDes
kyrkan Palatset Myntkabinettet
Börsen SV

A
EN EN

BR
SK
af Chapman S U N D S VÄ G Lilje-

AMIR
STOR- KÖPMANGATAN Skeppsholmen

LÅ N GG ATAN
Aquaria

OB
SKEPPS-
D TORGET valchs

SJÄLAGÅRDSG
SG AT A N
ÄN

ÄN

ALS
- Konsthall
GR EN
SV

KEN
SBRON
K N G
KI TU
AR

NA
HOLMEN
IN
BR ÄN D
PR ST

S
TM

VÄ
BAGGEN LM
VÄ

AL GRÄN
ÄS ER

ÖSTER

G
A
TG LÅ

S t r

EN
N

DT BÄ NK EN
G

EL ND Konst- SÖD RA BRO

AT N G

Tyska Allmänna

SKEPP
NF GRÄ
AN G

KE
N
Kyrkan högskolan gränd
IN Kastell-
NY

BR
D S
TR RTEN

holmsbron
AT
GA

GR OTZIG

ö m
GAMLA
A
TA

A KAST
N

SK
ÄN

EL
N

MÅ

KORN- BACK L- Gröna

EN

KA
HAMNS- Lund

ÖR
EN TORG

STE
m e
S TA N
JÄRN- Kastellholmen

LO
TORGET

LLH

GS
KASTELL-

VÄ
OL
Söder- PARKEN

G
RÄNTMÄSTAR-

MS
n

EN
TRAPPAN KA
ström KARL
JOHANS Slussen
JE
N
TORG

Kar
SLUSSEN l Jo
han
sslu
D sse
R Ä NSÖDER- n
ULDG
MALMS-
TORG
Katarina- S a l t s j ö n
Stads- hissen
SALTSJ
museet ÖUTFA
RTEN
E
BACK
NDES
P MY MARIAGR
K ATA RI
KL EV GR N AVÄ
G EN S TA S TA D
ÄN D DS S
URVÄDE
GLA GÅ GÅRD SEE MAPS
SBR RD SHA
REP

RSGR UK
SG SLE MN 4–5 FOR
AT DE EN
N ENLARGEMENT
SLA

GÖT

AN
ATA FISKARGATAN OF THIS AREA
ENS G
SK A

HÖK MOSEBACKE
GAR

GATA

TORG
RAB

G
TENS ARG. S TA
SVAR RODD EL S G
G AT

FJÄ LLG ATA

ORG

DSG
N

IK A N SISTA
Slussen MM ÅRD
Siden-
KYR

STYVERNS SHA

ERSTAG
SG A

AN

K ATA G Å R D SG

TRAPPOR MN
KATA

väveri- AN

ERSTAG
G AT D- EN
KO

LILLA
RGS SAN SG. STI GB ERG SG
TA N

museum GBE K
Katarina BAC
R IN A
RIN

HÖ TJÄRHOVS-

ATAN
Kyrka Ersta
AVK

PLAN

LO
Ö

ÄND Stigbergs- sjuk-

N
LLGR

DO N V
YRKO

KAPE parken hus

AN
G AT
RENST

VS
RHO FOLKUNGAGATAN
GATA

NYT

Södertorn T JÄ
BOR

BJÖRNS TEGELVIKS-

IA
MEDBORGAR- TRÄD- PLAN
SÅGAR-
LO TS -

G ATA N
U
IE

D
PLATSEN
ORG

GÅRD GATA N KT
GMÄ
RNAS

N EN

SKEPP -
AGATA

ARGR .
BECKBRÄNNAR-
UNG
SÖ D

SGA

BACKEN
FOLK
S TA R
GATA

Medborgar-
ERM

ÅSÖ GATAN
TA N

KLIPPGATA N

ERSTA GATA N

platsen N
ATA
AN
ANN

KSG
G AT A

AN

N Ä SG
ÅSÖBERGET
KOC G AT
G AT

GRUV
ÅSÖ
SÖDERMALM
ACKE B-
AGA

DUV
N
BON
N
V Ä S AT A N

DEG
TA N
AG

TAN ATA
ÖSTG

N
EGA
G
MÄ ERS
TGÖ

ND
PL O
GRÄ
P ND

BO
STE
Ö TA

SOFIA
T-

R
MAL

TRAPP-
GRÄN TENS

N NY- GRÄND
AN ATA
G AT

BERGSPRÄNGAR-
G AT
GÖT

NEG TOR-
MGÅ

ÅSÖ
D

GRÄND
MEJ

SKÅ Sofia
T JU SA N

GET Spårvägs-
AN

K AT SG
AT

KE Kyrka
M Ö RA N

NÄR
G AT

museet
STORA

ARI
R

NA DS
G AT

T EN G D A HL SG A TA
TG-

ÅSÖ- BAN VÄ Vita Bergen

E-

G AT
ATA

TORGET G
A O F IA G
GRETA S EN
E N NS
AN

PARK
GSG

GARBOS JTE
B JU R

AN TORG ME D
B R Ä IG

G AT
T JU R

NDS LA ÄN NAC
LIL GR
NÄN
ER

HAL
LA GATAKA-
H O LM

TA N
NN-

EGA TA N
N
IN G
BERG

K GA M
BAR

BLE NDS
HEL

AL
SG A

HELGA- LA
GOT
N

LUNDEN M FÄRGAR-
GA

GÅ
SG

TA N

PLAN TEN
Skanstull RD G
GA

G AV DAH -
G N KA SV E L IU LSG
NA GE
TA

LGO TA ÄG SGA
N

BJURHOLMS- TA N
HE VÄ
TA
N

ALL - R EN
Ä LV

DALS G. PLAN IN
N G LILLA
GA

S A
LAND R I BLECKTORNS- B A N
VIKS L-
SBO

N
RÖ

GATA
G
TEGE

HELG NDS PARKEN GA FÄRGAR-

TE

AG ÖLA T
RGS

A GÅRDS-
US
S Ö D G AT A N

TJURBERGET BARN-
R TORGET
EN
LJ
NA

ME RG ÄNGS-
G.

G TA R G ATA N VÄ
REG.

G VÄ ST PARKEN
ERM

NO SGR.

RIN G
RP

Skanstull ÄN
BRINKEN
HAV

BLECK-
TORNS-

TVA

RN
BA VINTER-
AN-

-
FU TGER

TULLS- VINTERTULLS-
SG

TORGET PARKEN N
GÖT

NE
CH

TA N M
G

STORA HA
RU

SGA
TAN
HAVRE

BY
GRÄSGATAN

U Hammarby
BOH BLECKTORNSPARKEN AR
VETEGA

G AT

MM Sjö
HA
ÖSTG

R RA
NO
MJ
AN

S S L I NGAN
TULLGÅRDS- LJU
ÄR
ÖTA

PARKEN
DG
NÄ

R
SKA

LU

AN
DÖ

TG

G AT
RDS
R
RJG

LGÅ J
TRÅ
GATA
NSB

TUL KA
AV
R
LJUST

LG

BY
RO

ÄG
R
N

AR
ERG
G AT

EN

M
M
R

Skans-
HA Luma
SÖDRA
AN

tulls-
bron
Skans-

H A M M A R B Y-
bron LÉ
AL
BY
HEL

M AR

HAMNEN AM
IO S

Johanneshovs-
H
bron
VÄ G

Martendsdal
HA

EN
MM
AR

SK YB
B

A AC
N
SB KE
A N
CK
EN
HAMMAR BY FABRIKSVÄG
216  STOCKHOLM STREET FINDER

Street Finder Index

A Borgvägen
Bragevägen
6 A1
2 C2
Fatbursgatan
Ferkens Gränd
8 C3
4 C3
Hedinsgatan
Heimdalsgatan
3 F2
2 B2
Adolf Fredriks Kyrkogata 2 C3 Brahegatan 3 E2 Finsens Väg 1 A2 Heleneborgsgatan 1 C5
af Pontins Väg 6 B4 Brännerigatan 9 E3 Finska Kyrkogränd 4 C3 Helga Lekamens Gränd 4 B3
Agnegatan 2 A4 Brännkyrkagatan 8 A2, 4 A5 Fiskargatan 9 D2, 4 C5 Helgagatan 9 D4
Akademigränd 2 C5, 4 A1 Bråvallagatan 1 C1 Fiskartorpsvägen 3 E1 Heliosvägen 9 F5
Allhelgonagatan 9 D4 Breda Gatan 6 A4 Fjällgatan 9 E2 Herkulesgatan 2 C5, 4 A1
Allmänna Gränd 6 A4 Bredgränd 4 C3 Flaggmansvägen 5 E3 Hjärnegatan 2 A4
Alstaviksvägen 1 B5 Breitenfeldsgatan 6 A1 Fleminggatan 1 B2 Högalidsgatan 1 B5
Alströmergatan 1 B2 Brinellvägen 3 D1 Flintbacken 8 B4 Högbergsgatan 8 C3
Älvsborgsgatan 9 D4 Brunkebergsgatan 4 A1 Floragatan 3 E2 Högvaktsterrassen 4 B2
Amiralsvägen 9 E1 Brunkebergstorg 3 D4, 4 A1 Folke Bernadottes Väg 6 C2 Hökens Gata 9 D2, 4 C5
Anders Reimers Väg 1 B5 Brunnsgatan 3 D3 Folkskolegatan 1 B5 Holländargatan 2 C3
Andréegatan 6 A4 Brunnsgränd 4 C3 Folkungagatan 9 D3 Holmamiralens torg 5 E3
Ångströmsgatan 1 C2 Bryggargatan 2 C4 Franzéngatan 1 A1 Hornsgatan 8 A2, 4 A5
Ankargränd 4 B3 Fredmansgatan 8 C2 Hornskroken 8 A2
Ansgariegatan 8 A2 Fredrik Bloms väg 7 D3 Hornsviksstigen 8 A3
Apelbergsgatan 2 C4
C Fredsgatan 3 D5, 4 B1 Hötorget 2 C4
Arbetargatan 1 B2 Cardellgatan 3 E3 Frejgatan 2 A2 Hovslagargatan 3 E5, 5 D1
Arkivgatan 4 A2 Carl Alberts Gränd 8 C3 Fridhemsgatan 1 C2 Humlegårdsgatan 3 D3
Armfeltsgatan 3 F1 Carl-Gustaf Lindstedts Gata 2 A4 Fridhemsplan 1 B2 Hunduddsvägen 7 E2
Arsenalsgatan 4 C1 Cedersdalsgatan 2 B1 Friggagatan 3 D2
Årstabron 8 A4 Celsiusgatan 2 A4 Fryxellsgatan 2 C2
Artillerigatan 3 F2 Centralbron 2 C5, 4, A2 Funckens Gränd 4 B4
I
Åsögatan 9 D3 Chapmansgatan 1 C3 Fyrverkarbacken 1 A3 Idungatan 2 B1
Åsötorget 9 D3 Creutzgatan 1 A2 Igeldammsgatan 1 B1
Assessorsgatan 8 C4 Ignatiigränd 4 B3
Atlasgatan 2 A3
G Industrigatan 1 B1
Atlasmuren 1 C1
D Gaffelgränd 4 C3 Inedalsgatan 1 C2
Dalagatan 2 A2 Gambrinusgatan 1 C3 Ingemarsgatan 2 C1
B Dalslandsgatan
Danderydsgatan
9 D4
3 D2
Gamla Brogatan
Gamla Lundagatan
2 C4
8 B2
Israel af Ströms väg
Iversonsgatan
7 D3
3 D3
Baggensgatan 9 D1, 4 C3 Danderydsplan 3 D2 Gärdesgatan 6 B2
Baldersgatan 3 D2 Dannemoragatan 2 A1 Garvar Lundins Gränd 2 A5
Bältgatan 3 F3 David Bagares Gata 3 D3 Garvargatan 2 A5
J
Baltzar von Platens Gata 1 C3 De Besches Väg 6 C2 Gåsgränd 8 C1, 4 B3 Jägargatan 8 B3
Banérgatan 3 F4 Didrik Ficks Gränd 4 B3 Gästrikegatan 2 A2 Jakob Westinsgatan 2 A5
Bangårdsgången 8 C3 Djurgårdsbrunnsbron 7 D3 Gaveliusgatan 9 F4 Jakobs Torg 3 D1, 4 B1
Bärarvägen 1 B2 Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 6 B2 Gävlegatan 2 A2 Jakobsbergsgatan 3 D4
Barnängs Tvärgränd 9 F4 Djurgårdsslätten 6 A4 Geijersvägen 1 A2 Jakobsgatan 2 C5, 4 A1
Barnängsgatan 9 F3 Djurgårdsvägen 6 B4 Gjörwellsgatan 1 A4 Jarlaplan 2 C2
Barnhusbron 2 B4 Döbelnsgatan 2 C2 Gjutargatan 1 B1 Järntorget 9 D1, 4 C4
Barnhusgatan 2 B4 Dörjgränd 9 E5 Glasbruksgatan 9 D2, 4 C5 Järntorgsgatan 4 C4
Bastugatan 8 C2, 4 A5 Drakenbergsgatan 8 A3 Göran Hälsinges Gränd 4 B3 Johannesgatan 3 D3
Beckbrännarbacken 9 E3 Drakens Gränd 4 C3 Götgatan 9 D2, 4 B5 Johannesgränd 4 C3
Beckholmsbron 6 A4 Drejargatan 1 C1 Gotlandsgatan 9 E4 Johanneshovsbron 9 D5
Beckholmsvägen 6 A4 Drottning Kristinas Väg 3 D1 Gräsgatan 9 D4 John Bergs Plan 1 B2
Bedoirsgränd 4 B3 Drottning Sofias Väg 3 E1 Greta Garbos Torg 9 E3 John Ericssonsgatan 1 C3
Bellmans Väg 6 C3 Drottninggatan 2 C3, 4 A1 Grev Magnigatan 3 F4 Jungfrugatan 3 E3
Bellmansgatan 8 C2, 4 A5 Drottningholmsvägen 1 A3 Grev Turegatan 3 E2 Jutas Backe 3 D3
Bengt Ekehjelmsgatan 8 C3 Drottninghusgränd 3 D3 Greve von Essens Väg 6 B1
Bergsgatan 1 C3 Duvnäsgatan 9 F3 Grevgatan 3 F3
Bergsjölundsvägen 6 C4 Grevgränd 4 C1
K
Bergsprängargränd 9 E3 Grindsgatan 8 C4 Kägelbanestigen 7 E2
Bergsunds Strand 1 B5
E Gröna gången 9 E1, 5 E3 Kåkbrinken 8 C1, 4 B3
Bergsundsgatan 1 B5 Edelstams väg 7 E3 Grubbens Gata 1 C2 Kaknäsvägen 7 E1
Biblioteksgatan 3 D4 Ehrensvärdsgatan 1 C3 Grubbensringen 2 A4 Källargränd 4 B3
Bigarråvägen 2 C1 Ekelundsbron 1 A1 Gruvbacken 9 F3 Kallskärsgatan 3 F2
Birger Jarls Torg 8 C1, 4A3 Ekermans Gränd 8 B3 Guldfjärdplan 4 B4 Kammakargatan 2 B3
Birger Jarlsgatan 2 C2 Engelbrekts Kyrkogata 3 D2 Guldgränd 9 D2, 4 B5 Kanalallén 7 E3
Birkagatan 1 C1 Engelbrektsgatan 3 D2 Gumshornsgatan 3 F4 Kanslikajen 4 B2
Biskopsvägen 7 D4 Engelbrektsplan 3 D3 Gustav Adolfs Torg 3 D5, 4 B1 Kapellgränd 9 D2
Björngårdsgatan 8 C2 Eolsgatan 8 A2 Gyldéngatan 2 B2 Kaplansbacken 2 B5
Bjurholmsgatan 9 E3 Erik Dahlbergsallén 3 F3 Gyllenborgsgatan 1 A2 Kaptensgatan 3 E4
Bjurholmsplan 9 E4 Erik Dahlbergsgatan 3 F2 Gyllenstiernsgatan 6 A1 Karduansmakargatan 2 C5, 4 A1
Blasieholmsgatan 3 E5, 4C1 Eriksbergsgatan 3 D3 Karl Johans Torg 9 D1, 4 C4
Blasieholmstorg 3 D5, 4 C1 Eriksbergsplan 3 D3 Karl XII:s Torg 3 D5, 4 C1
Blecktornsbrinken 9 E4 Eriksdalsgatan 8 C4
H Karlaplan 3 F3
Blecktornsgränd 8 C2, 4 A5 Erstagatan 9 F2 Hagagatan 2 B1 Karlavägen 2 C2
Blekholmsterrassen 2 B4 Evert Taubes Terrass 8 C1, 4 A3 Hallandsgatan 9 D3 Karlbergs Slottsväg 1 B1
Blekingegatan 8 C4 Exercisplan 5 E3 Hälsingegatan 2 A1 Karlbergsvägen 2 A2
Blockhusringen 7 F4 Hammarby Fabriksväg 9 F5 Karlshällsvägen 1 B5
Bo Bergmans Gata 3 F2 Hammarbybacken 9 E5 Karlsviksgatan 1 B3
Bohusgatan 9 E4
F Hammarbyvägen 9 F5 Kastellbacken 9 F1, 5 F4
Bolinders Plan 2 B5 Fabriksbacken 1 B5 Hammargatan 3 D2 Kastellholmsbron 9 E1, 5 E3
Bollhusgränd 4 C3 Falkenbergsgatan 6 A3 Hamngatan 3 D4 Kastellholmskajen 9 F1, 5 F4
Bollnästorget 6 A3 Färgargårdstorget 9 F4 Hantverkargatan 1 B3 Katarina Bangata 9 D3
Bondegatan 9 E3 Färgarplan 9 F4 Havregatan 9 D4 Katarina Kyrkobacke 5 D5
Borgargatan 1 C5 Fatburs Brunnsgata 8 C3 Hazeliusbacken 6 A3 Katarina Östra
Borgmästargatan 9 E3 Fatburs Kvarngata 8 B3 Hazeliusporten 6 A3 Kyrkogårdsgränd 9 E2
 STOCKHOLM STREET FINDER  217

Katarina Västra Kyrkogata 9 D2 Londonviadukten 9 F2 Notvarpsgränd 9 E4 Riddarhuskajen 4 A2

Katarinavägen 9 D2, 4 C5 Lorensbergsgatan 1 C5 Nybergsgatan 3 E3 Riddarhustorget 8 C1, 4 A3
Kattgränd 8 B2 Lotsgatan 9 F3 Nybrogatan 3 E2 Rigagatan 6 A1
Kellgrensgatan 1 A2 Louddsvägen 7 D1 Nybrokajen 3 E5, 5 D1 Riksbron 3 D5, 4 A2
Kindstugatan 9 D1, 4 C3 Lovisagatan 6 A2 Nybroplan 3 E4 Riksplan 3 D5, 4 B2
Klappjaktsvägen 3 E1 Ludvigsbergsgatan 8 B2 Nygränd 4 C3 Rimbogatan 3 D3
Klara Norra Kyrkogata 2 C4 Lumavägen 9 F5 Nytorget 9 E3 Ringvägen 8 B2
Klara Östra Kyrkogata 4 A1 Lundagatan, Sthlm 8 A2 Nytorgsgatan 9 E3 Robert Almströmsgatan 1 C1
Klara Södra Kyrkogata 4 A1 Luntmakargatan 2 C3 Rödabergsbrinken 2 A2
Klara Tvärgränd 4 A1 Lusthusporten 6 A3 Rödbodgatan 4 A1
Klarabergsgatan 2 C4 Luthens Gränd 8 C3
O Rödbodtorget 4 A2
Klarabergsviadukten 2 B5 Lützengatan 3 F3 Observatoriegatan 2 B3 Roddargatan 9 D2
Klarastrandsleden 1 C1 Odengatan 2 A3 Rörstrandsgatan 1 B1
Klevgränd 9 D2, 4 C5 Odenplan 2 B2 Rosendalsterrassen 6 C3
Klippgatan, Sthlm 9 F3
M Ölandsgatan 9 D4 Rosendalsvägen 6 A3
Klockgjutargränd 4 B2 Magnus Ladulåsgatan 8 C3 Olof Gjödingsgatan 1 C3 Rosengatan 2 C3
Knaperstavägen 1 B5 Majorsgatan 3 E3 Olof Palmes Gata 2 C4 Rosenlundsgatan 8 B3
Kocksgatan 9 D3 Målargatan 2 C4 Olofsgatan 2 C3 Roslagsgatan 2 C1
Kocksgränd 4 B1 Mälartorget 4 B4 Orangerivägen 6 C3 Roslagstull 2 B1
Kolmårdsgränd 8 A2 Malmgårdsvägen 9 E3 Ordenstrappan 3 D2 Runebergsgatan 3 D3
Kolmätargränd 4 B3 Malmskillnadsgatan 3 D4 Örlogsvägen 9 F1, 5 F4 Runebergsplan 3 D2
Kommendörsgatan 3 E3 Malmtorgsgatan 3 D5, 4 B1 Osquars Backe 3 D1 Rutger Fuchsgatan 9 E4
Köpmanbrinken 4 C3 Manillavägen 7 E3 Österlånggatan 9 D1, 4 C3 Ryssviksvägen 6 B4
Köpmangatan 9 D1, 4 B3 Maria Bangata 8 B3 Östermalmsgatan 3 D2
Köpmantorget 4 C3 Maria Prästgårdsgata 8 B3 Östermalmstorg 3 E4
Kornhamn 4 B4 Maria Skolgata 8 B3 Östgötagatan 9 D3
S
Kornhamnstorg 9 D1,4 B4 Maria Trappgränd 8 C2, 4 A5 Östra Brobänken 5 E2 Sachsgatan 8 C4
Körsbärsvägen 2 C1 Mariagatan 4 B5 Östra Järnvägsvägen 2 B4 Sågargatan 9 F3
Kråkgränd 4 C3 Mariagränd 9 D2, 4 B5 Östra Slussgatan 4 C5 Saltmätargatan 2 C3
Kristinebergsvägen 1 A2 Mariatorget 8 C2, 4 A5 Östra Tegelviksslingan 6 A5 Saltsjörampen 4 C4
Kristinehovsgatan 8 A2 Mariebergsgatan 1 B2 Överskärargränd 4 B3 Saltsjöutfarten 9 D2, 4 C5
Kronobergsgatan 1 C2 Mariedalsvägen 1 A1 Oxenstiernsgatan 6 A1 Salviigränd 4 B2
Krukmakargatan 8 B2 Markvardsgatan 2 C2 Oxtorgsgatan 3 D4 Samaritgränd 8 B2
Kruthusplan 6 A2 Marmorgatan 8 B3 Samuel Owens Gata 2 B5
Kungsbro Strand 2 B5 Mårten Trotzigs Sandbacksgatan 9 E2
Kungsbron 2 B4 Gränd 9 D1, 4 C4
P Sandelsgatan 3 F2
Kungsgatan 2 B4 Mäster Mikaels Gata 9 E2 P O Hallmans Gata 2 A4 Sankt Eriksbron 1 C1
Kungsholms Hamnplan 2 A5 Mäster Pers Gränd 9 E3 Packhusgränd 4 C3 Sankt Eriksgatan 1 C1
Kungsholms Kyrkoplan 2 B5 Mäster Samuelsgatan 2 C4 Pålsundsbron 1 C5 Sankt Eriksplan 1 C1
Kungsholms Strand 1 B1 Masthamnen 6 A5 Pålsundsgatan 1 C5 Sankt Göransgatan 1 A1
Kungsholmsgatan 2 A4 Medborgarplatsen 9 D3 Pampaslänken 1 B1 Sankt Göransplan 1 A2
Kungsholmstorg 2 A5 Metargatan 9 E4 Parkgatan 1 C2 Sankt Paulsgatan 8 C2, 4 B5
Kungsklippan 2 A5 Mitisgatan 1 B3 Parmmätargatan 2 B5 Scheelegatan 2 A4
Kungstensgatan 2 B3 Mjärdgränd 9 F4 Peder Fredags Gränd 4 C3 Schering Rosenhanes
Kungsträdgården 2 D4, 4 B1 Möregatan 9 D3 Pelikansgränd 4 C3 Gränd 4 A3
Kungsträdgårdsgatan 3 D4, 4 C1 Mörka Kroken 7 D2 Peter Myndes Backe 9 D2, 4 B5 Schönfeldts
Kvarngatan 8 C2 Mosebacke Torg 9 D2, 4 C5 Pilgatan 2 A5 Gränd 9 D1, 4 B3
Münchensbacken 8 A2 Pipersgatan 2 A4 Sergelgatan 2 C4
Munkbrogatan 8 C1, 4 B3 Planterhagsvägen 3 E1 Sergels Torg 2 C4
L Munkbrohamnen 4 A3 Ploggatan 9 F3 Siargatan 8 C3
Laboratoriegatan 6 A2 Munkbroleden 8 C1, 4 B4 Pokalvägen 1 B5 Sibyllegatan 3 E3
Lagerlöfsgatan 1 A3 Munkbron 8 C1, 4 B3 Polhems Tvärgränd 2 A4 Sigtunagatan 2 A2
Långa Gatan 6 A4 Museikajen 3 E5, 5 D2 Polhemsgatan Sthlm 1 C3 Singelbacken 6 B4
Långa Raden 9 E1, 5 E3 Museivägen 6 C2 Pontonjärgatan 1 C3 Sirishovsvägen 6 B3
Långholmsbacken 1 C5 Myntgatan 4 B2 Prästgatan 9 D1, 4 B3 Sista Styverns Trappor 9 E2
Långholmsbron 1 B5 Mynttorget 4 B2 Prins Carls väg 7 E3 Själagårdsgatan 9 D1, 4 C3
Långholmsgatan 1 C5 Prins Eugens Väg 6 C4 Sjöbergsplan 4 B4
Lantmäteribacken 4 B1 Prinsessan Ingeborgs väg 7 F3 Sjötullsbacken 7 F4
Lästmakargatan 3 D4
N Prinsessan Märtas väg 7 F4 Sjukhusbacken 8 B4
Lehusens Gränd 8 C3 Nackagatan 9 F3 Pryssgränd 8 C2, 4 A4 Skånegatan 9 E3
Lejonbacken 3 D5, 4 B2 Näckströmsgatan 3 D4 Pustegränd 8 C2, 4 B5 Skansbacken 9 E5
Lejonstedts Gränd 4 B4 Närkesgatan 9 E3 Skansbrogatan 9 E5
Lidingövägen 3 F1 Narvavägen 3 F3 Skansbron 9 E5
Lidovägen 7 D2 Nätgränd 9 E4
R Skanstullsbron 9 D5
Lill-Jans Plan 3 D2 Nobelgatan 6 B2 Rådhusgränd 4 A2 Skaraborgsgatan 9 D2
Lilla Erstagatan 9 F2 Nordenskiöldsgatan 6 A4 Rådmansgatan 2 B3 Skarpögatan 6 B2
Lilla Hoparegränd 4 C3 Norr Mälarstrand 1 B3 Råggatan 8 C4 Skeppar Karls Gränd 4 C3
Lilla Mejtens Gränd 9 F3 Norra Agnegatan 2 A4 Ragvaldsgatan 8 C2, 4 B5 Skeppar Olofs Gränd 4 C3
Lilla Nygatan 8 C1, 4 B3 Norra Bankogränd 4 C4 Rålambshovsleden 1 A3 Skeppargatan 3 F2
Lilla Sjötullsbron 7 F3 Norra Bantorget 2 B4 Rålambsvägen 1 A3 Skeppargränd 9 F3
Lilla Skinnarviksgränd 8 B2, Norra Brobänken 3 E5, 5 D2 Räntmästartrappan 9 D1, 4 C4 Skeppsbrokajen 4 C3
Lindarängsvägen 6 B1 Norra Dryckesgränd 4 C4 Rapsgatan 8 C4 Skeppsbron 9 D1, 4 C3
Lindhagensgatan 1 A2 Norra Hammarbyhamnen 9 F4 Rävgrytsbacken 7 E1 Skeppsholmsbron 5 D2
Lindhagensplan 1 A3 Norra Järnvägsbron 4 A2 Regeringsgatan 3 D3, 4 B1 Skinnarbacken 8 A2
Lindstedtsvägen 3 D1 Norra Riddarholmshamnen 4 A2 Rehnsgatan 2 C2 Skinnarviksringen 8 A2
Linnégatan 3 D3 Norra Stationsgatan 2 A1 Reimersholmsbron 1 B5 Sköldgatan 8 B3
Ljustergränd 9 E5 Norrbackagatan 1 B1 Reimersholmsgatan 1 B5 Sköldungagatan 3 D2
Ljusterögatan 9 F4 Norrbro 4 B2 Renstiernas Gata 9 E3 Skolgränd 8 C2, 4 A5
Lodgatan 2 C2 Norrlandsgatan 3 D4 Repslagargatan 9 D2, 4 B5 Skomakargatan 9 D1, 4 B3
Logårdstrappan 3 D5, 4 C2 Norrmalmstorg 3 D4 Riddargatan 3 E4 Skottgränd 4 C3
Löjtnantsgatan 3 E2 Norrtull 2 A1 Riddarholmsbron 4 A3 Skräddargränd 4 B3
Lokstallsgatan 2 A3 Norrtullsgatan 2 B2 Riddarhusgränd 4 A2 Slipgatan 1 B5
218  STOCKHOLM STREET FINDER

Slöjdgatan 2 C4 Storkyrkobrinken 8 C1, 4 B3 Trädgårdsgatan 4 B3 Vikingagatan 1 C1

Slottsbacken 4 C2 Stortorget 9 D1, 4 B3 Trädgårdstvärgränd 4 C3 Villagatan 3 D2
Slottskajen 3 D5, 4 B2 Strandvägen 3 E4 Trålgränd 9 E5 Vindragarvägen 1 A5
Slupskjulsvägen 5 E2 Strindbergsgatan 3 F2 Trångsund 4 B3 Vintertullstorget 9 F4
Slussen 9 D1, 4 C4 Strömbron 3 D5, 4 C2 Träskportsvägen 3 D1 Virkesvägen 9 F5
Slussplan 4 C4 Strömgatan 3 D5, 4 A2 Tre Liljor 2 A1 Völundsgatan 1 C1
Slussterrassen 4 C4 Strömkajen 3 D5, 4 C1 Triewaldsgränd 4 C4 Vulcanusgatan 1 C1
Smala Gränd 3 D3 Strömparterren 3 D5, 4 B2 Tryckerigatan 4 A3
Smålandsgatan
Smedsuddsvägen
3 D4
1 B3
Strömsborgsbron
Sturegatan
4 A2
3 E3
Tulegatan
Tullgårdsgatan
2 C2
9 E5
W
Snickarbacken 3 D3 Stureplan 3 D4 Tullgränd 4 C4 Wallingatan 2 B3
Sockerbruksgränd 8 A4 Styrmansgatan 3 F4 Tunnelgatan 2 C3 Warfvinges Väg 1 A1
Söder Mälarstrand 1 C5 Surbrunnsgatan 2 C2 Ture Nermans Gränd 1 B3 Wargentinsgatan 2 A4
Södermalmsallén 8 C3 Svartensgatan 9 D2, 4 C5 Tyghusplan 5 D2 Welanders Väg 1 B2
Södermalmstorg 9 D2, 4 B5 Svartmangatan 9 D1, 4 B3 Tyrgatan 3 D2 Wennerbergsgatan 1 A3
Södermannagatan 9 E3 Svarvargatan 1 B1 Tyska Brinken 9 D1, 4 B3 Wivalliusgatan 1 A4
Södra Agnegatan 2 A5 Sveaplan 2 B1 Tyska Brunnsplan 4 C3 Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 8 B2
Södra Bankogränd 4 C4 Sveavägen 2 B2 Tyska Skolgränd 4 C3 Wrangelska Backen 4 A3
Södra Benickebrinken 4 C3 Swedenborgsgatan 8 C2 Tyska Stallplan 4 C3
Södra Sven Rinmans Gata 1 B3 Tyskbagargatan
Tysta Gatan
3 E3
3 F3
Y
Blasieholmshamnen 4 C2 Sven Vintappares Gränd 4 B3
Södra Svensksundsvägen 9 E1, 5 D3 Ynglingagatan 2 B1
Brobänken 9 E1, 5 E3 Sysslomansgatan 1 B3 Yttersta Tvärgränd 8 B2
Södra Dryckesgränd 4 C4
U Yxsmedsgränd 8 C1, 4 B3
Södra Järnvägsbron 4 B4 Ugglegränd 8 C2, 4A5
T
Södra Uggleviksgatan 3 D2 Z
Riddarholmshamnen 4 A3 Tantogatan 8 B3 Ulrikagatan 6 A2
Södra Varvsporten 6 A3 Taptogatan 6 A1 Upplandsgatan 2 A1 Zinkens Väg 8 A3
Sofia Trappgränd 9 F3 Tavastgatan 8 C2, 4 A5 Urvädersgränd 9 D2, 4 C5
Sofiagatan 9 E3 Teatergatan 3 E5, 4 C1
Sofiebergsvägen 1 A5 Tegelbacken 2 C5, 4 A2
Solgränd 4 B3 Tegelviksgatan 9 F4
V
Sollidsbacken 6 B4 Tegelviksplan 9 F3 Valhallavägen 3 E2
Spektens Gränd 4 B3 Tegnérgatan 2 B3 Valmundsvägen 6 C3
Stadsgårdshamnen 9 E2, 5 D5 Teknikringen 3 D1 Vanadisplan 2 A2
Stadsgårdsleden 9 E2, 5 D5 Teknologgatan 2 B3 Vanadisvägen 2 A2
Stadshagens Idrottsväg 1 A2 Telegrafgränd 4 C3 Väpnargatan 3 E4
Stadshagsplan 1 B1 Tengdahlsgatan 9 F3 Värtavägen 3 F3
Stadshagsvägen 1 A2 Terminalslingan 2 B4 Varvsgatan 1 C5
Stadshusbron 2 C5 Textilvägen 9 F5 Vasabron 2 C5, 4 A2
Staffan Sasses Gränd 4 C3 Thorildsplan 1 A2 Vasagatan 2 B4
Stallbron 3 D5, 4 B2 Tideliusgatan 8 C4 Västerbron 1 B4
Stallgatan 3 E5, 4 C1 Timmermansgatan 8 C2 Västerbronedfarten 1 A3
Starrängsringen 3 F2 Timmermansgränd 8 C3 Västerlånggatan 9 D1, 4 B3
Stenbastugränd 4 B3 Timotejgatan 8 C4 Västeråsgatan 2 A1
Stenbocksgatan 3 D3 Tjärhovsgatan 9 E3 Västgötagatan 9 D3
Stickelbärsvägen 2 C1 Tjärhovsplan 9 E2 Västmannagatan 2 A1
Stiernhjelmsvägen 1 A2 Tjurbergsgatan 9 D3 Västra Brobänken 9 E1, 5 D3
Stigbergsgatan 9 E2 Tjustgatan 9 D3 Västra
Stora Tobaksspinnargatan 1 C5 Trädgårdsgatan 3 D4, 4 B1
Gråmunkegränd 8 C1, 4 B3 Tomtebogatan 1 C1 Vattugatan 2 C5, 4 A1
Stora Hoparegränd 4 C3 Torgdragargränd 4 B4 Vegagatan 2 B2
Stora Mejtens Gränd 9 F3 Torkel Knutssonsgatan 8 B2 Verkstadsgatan 1 B5
Stora Nygatan 8 C1, 4 B3 Torsgatan 2 A3 Vetegatan 9 D4
Storängsvägen 3 F1 Torsgränd 2 A3 Vickergatan 8 C4
Storgatan, Sthlm 3 F4 Torstenssonsgatan 3 F4 Vidargatan 2 B2
 GENERAL INDEX  219

General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to L’Archevêque, Pierre Hubert Berwald, Franz 108, 176
main entries Gustav II Adolf’s equestrian Berwaldhallen 108, 139, 176, 177
statue 64 Bicycles see Cycling
A Archipelago Biologiska museet 97
ABBA 27 islands 11, 143, 152–3 Street-by-Street map 89
ABBA Museum 97 map 144–5 Birger Jarl 17, 55, 59
Adelcrantz, Carl Fredrik 67 transport 144, 204 statue of 58
Adolf Fredriks Kyrka 72 Archipelago Boat Day 29 Birger Jarls Torn 59
Chinese Pavilion Archipelago Fair 28 Birka 17, 143, 150
(Drottningholm) 149 Architecture Björk, Oscar 75, 99
Court Theatre (Drottningholm) ArkDes 8, 36, 79, 80 Björkö 150
149 Stockholm’s Best 38–9 Blå Porten 90
Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka 73 ArkDes 8, 36, 80 Street-by-Street map 89
Klara Kyrka 68 Street-by-Street map 79 Blanche, August 105
Konstakademien 68 Arle, Asmund 105 Blasieholmen & Skeppsholmen
Ulriksdals Slott 127 Armémuseum 74 77–85
Adelcrantz, Göran Josuae 73 Arvfurstens Palats 67 area map 77
Adlersparre, Rolf 90 Street-by-Street map 64 Great Days in Stockholm 10, 11
Admission charges 190 ASICS Stockholm Marathon 29 hotels 159–61
Adolf Fredrik, King Åsöberget, wooden cottages 39 Moderna museet 82–3
Adolf Fredriks Kyrka 72 Asplund, Gunnar 119 Nationalmuseum 84–5
Drottningholm 146, 148 Skogskyrkogården 135 restaurants 167–8
Livrustkammaren 54 Stadsbiblioteket 39, 79, 119, 141 Skeppsholmen cannons 80
Royal Palace 50, 53 Åstrom, Kjell 115 Street-by-Street map 78–9
Adolf Fredriks Kyrka 72, 141 ATMs 194–5 Blasieholmstorg 83
ÅF Offshore Race 29 Autumn in Stockholm 30 Blidösund, SS 145
Aftonbladet 23 The Aviator (Milles) 105 Blockhusudden 138–9
“Age of Liberty” 22 Axel Oxenstiernas Palats Blom, Fredrik 98
Ahlmark-Hughes, Ebba 105 Street-by-Street map 48 Blom, Henrik 66
Ahlström, Åke 115 Blom, Holger 114
Ahnborg, Erik 105, 108 B Blomberg, Sigrid 119
Air travel 198–9 Bååtska Palatset 83 Blomberg, Stig 115
Albrecht of Mecklenburg 17 Baby equipment shops 186–7 Boats
Alcohol 191 Bacchanal on Andros (Rubens) 34 ÅF Offshore Race 29
and driving 200 Bake & Chocolate Festival 30 Archipelago Boat Day 29
duty-free allowances 198 Balck, Victor 113 Archipelago Fair 28
festivals 30 Balka, Miroslaw 91 boat trips 143, 145, 204
in restaurants 163, 165 Ballet 176, 177 af Chapman youth hostel 10, 76,
shopping 183 Les Ballets Suédois 67 78, 81, 157
Spritmuseum 37, 91 Balloon trips 181 ferries 199, 204
temperance movement 23 Baltic Sea Festival 29, 108 Fjäderholmarna 37
Almgren, Karl August 129 Banér family 21 hiring 43, 204
Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum Banking 194–5 Mariefred 151
37, 129 Banknotes 195 Medeltidsmuseum 61
Almquist, Ansgar 119 Bars 162, 172–3, 178, 179 Museifartygen 37, 88, 91
Alsnö ordinances 17 Beckholmen 98 Riddarfjärden 42
Ambulances 192 Bed & breakfast 157 Round Lidingö Race 28
Amor and Psyche (Sergel) 85 Beer 163, 165 sailing 180
Amusement park festivals 30, 175 Scandinavian Sail and Motor
Gröna Lund 9, 10, 11, 28, 97, 138, Bellevueparken 122–3 Boat Show 30
175 Bellman, Carl Michael 87, 98 Sjöhistoriska museet 35, 37,
Anckarström, Jacob Johne 22, Bellmanmuseet 37, 134 108–9, 139
25 Gröna Lund 97 Stockholm International Boat
Anderberg, Axel 66, 126 Bengtsson, Walter 111 Show 28
Andersson, Benny 97 Berg, Christer 59 Strandvägen 105
Andersson, Johan Gunnar 80 Bergh, Richard 99 Vasamuseet 8, 10, 11, 35, 37, 88,
Andersson, Thomas 91 Bergianska trädgården 126 94–6, 138, 175
Andrén, Vicke 67, 119, 130 Bergman, Ingmar 27, 111, 176 Boberg, Ferdinand 68, 99, 108
Ansgar (monk) 150 Bergman Taube, Astri 132 Bofill, Ricardo 133
Antiques Bergsten, Carl G 97 Bohlin, Jonas 41
fairs 31 Bernadotte, Jean-Baptiste see Karl Bonde, Gustav 21, 60
shops 186 XIV Johan, King Bondeska Palatset 21, 60
Aquarium Bernadotte dynasty 52 Bonds, Håkan 105
Skansen 100 tombs 58 Bookshops 186, 187
Aragon, Louis 83 Berns 10, 11, 83 Borgström, Hans 110
220  GENERAL INDEX

Börjesson, John 75 Chapman, Fredrik Henrik af 81, Confidencen (Ulriksdals Slott) 127,
Bouchardon, J P 50 109 176, 177
Boucher, François 52 af Chapman youth hostel 10, 76, Conran, Terence 83
Bourgeois, Louise 91 81, 157 The Conspiracy of the Batavians
Branting, Hjalmar 26, 72 Street-by-Street map 78 under Claudius Civilis
Bridges The Child’s Brain (Chirico) 83 (Rembrandt) 84
Djurgårdsbron 8, 89, 90 Children 191 Consulates 191
Öresund Bridge 27, 199 entertainment 175 Cornet, Paul 105
Västerbron 115 in restaurants 163 Court Life at Drottningholm
Bruegel, Pieter the Elder 118 China-Teatern 176, 177 (Hilleström) 24–5
Brunkeberg, Battle of (1471) 17 Chinese Pavilion (Drottningholm) Cosmonova (planetarium) 126
Budget hotels 158 148–9 Court Theatre (Drottningholm)
Bureaux de change 194 Chirico, Giorgio de 177
Buses 203 The Child’s Brain 83 Cousinet, Jean François 53
airport buses 198 Christmas 30, 31 Craft and design
night buses 175 markets 31, 183 shopping 186, 187
Byström, J N seasonal food 165 Swedish Style 40–41
bust of Carl Michael Bellman 98 Churches What to Buy in Stockholm
church music 177 184–5
C Adolf Fredriks Kyrka 72, 141 Crayfish season 29
Cabaret 179 Drottningholm 146 Credit cards 192, 195
Cadier, Régis 81 Engelbrektskyrkan 113 in hotels 156
Cafés 162, 172, 173 Engelska Kyrkan 139 lost or stolen 194
Cake shops 172, 173 Finska Kyrkan 49 in shops 182
Callmander, Ivar 71 Gustav Vasa Kyrka 119, 141 Crime 192
Cannons, Skeppsholmen 80 Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka 73 Crystal Vertical Accent in Glass and
Canoe hire 204 Heliga Korsets Kapell 119, 135 Steel (Öhrström) 69
Carl XVI Gustaf, King 26, 51, 53, Högalidskyrkan 134 Currency 195
125 Jacobs Kyrka 65, 66, 177 Customs regulations 198
Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum 37, 122– Johannes Kyrka 141 Cycling 180, 200, 205
3 Katarina Kyrka 9, 11, 130 bicycle rental 205
Carolian Era 19 Klara Kyrka 68
Carove, Carlo Maria Magdalena Kyrka 137 D
Drottningholm 146, 148 Matteus Kyrka 121 Dacke, Nils 18
Karlbergs Slott 121 Riddarholmskyrkan 10, 11, 58 Dahlbergh, Field Marshal Erik
Stenbockska Palatset 59 Royal Chapel 50, 53 132
Ulriksdals Slott 127 Seglora Church 101 Dance 176, 177
Carove, Giovanni 146, 148 Skeppsholmen Church 78 Dansens Hus 71, 176, 177
Cars Sofia Kyrka 9, 132 Dansmuseet 37, 67
alcohol limits 191, 200 Storkyrkan 10, 11, 16, 46, 48, Daniel, Prince 27, 125
car rental 201 55 Dansen (Eldh) 117
driving in Stockholm 200–201 Tyska Kyrkan 10, 11, 56–7 Dansens Hus 71, 176, 177
driving to Stockholm 199 Cinema 179 Dansmuseet 37, 67
Gärdet Race 28 Filmhuset 111 Dardel, Nils
Granturismo 30 Stockholm International Film John Blund 119
parking 201 Festival 30 David and Bathsheba tapestry
speed limits 199, 200 Cirkus 176, 177 84
Cash machines 194–5 City 63–75 De la Gardie, Jakob 127
Casinos 178–9 A 90-minute walk around the De la Gardie, Katarina 59
Castles and fortresses city centre 140–41 De la Gardie, Magnus Gabriel 52,
Gripsholms Slott 150 area map 63 120, 121
Kastellholmen 81 hotels 158–61 Debit cards 195
Ladugårdsgärde 111 Kungsträdgården: Street-by- Delicatessens 187
Tre Kronor 19, 20, 50, 53 Street map 64–6 Dentists 193
see also Palaces restaurants 166–7 Department stores 182–3
Cathedral transformation of 69 Descartes, René 19, 72
Storkyrkan 10, 11, 16, 46, 48, 55 Clason, Isak Gustaf Desideria, Queen 23, 98
Cederholm, A F Nordiska museet 39, 92 Design see Craft and design
Gustav III’s Pavilion 124 Östermalmshallen 73 Desprez, Louis Jean
Cederström, Gustav 21, 75 Steninge Slott 151 Hagaparken 124, 125
Celsing, Peter 69, 111 Strandvägen 104 Obelisk 48
Cemeteries Climate 28–31 Theatre Museum
Adolf Fredriks Kyrka 72 Clothes (Drottningholm) 149
Royal Cemetery 124 shopping 186, 187 “Devil’s Bible” 72
Skogskyrkogården 39, 119, 135 Stockholm Fashion Week 31 Diplomatstaden 108, 139
Centralbadet 71 Coach travel 199 Disabled travellers 191
Changing of the Guard (Royal Coins 195 outdoor activities 181
Palace) 8, 10, 11, 50 Communications 196–7 Ditzinger, Gustaf Adolf 67
 GENERAL INDEX  221

Djurgården 10, 11, 87–101 Ericsson, Christian 75 Food and drink (cont.)
A 90-minute walk on Djurgården Ericsson, L M 23, 71, 109 A Taste of Stockholm 29
138–9 Ericsson, Nils 128 What to Buy in Stockholm 185
area map 87 Erik XIV, King 18 see also Alcohol; Restaurants
hotels 159 Kungsträdgården 66 Football 28
Lejonslätten: Street-by-Street state regalia 53 Forseth, Einar
map 88–9 Erik’s Chronicle 17 Högalidskyrkan 134
Nordiska museet 92–3 Eriksson, Christian Konserthuset 70
restaurants 168 Engelbrekt the Freedom Fighter Stadshuset 116
Skansen 100–101 116 Tekniska Högskolan 113
Vasamuseet 94–6 Liljevalchs Konsthall 97 Vanadislunden 121
Djurgårdsbron 8, 90 Rådhuset 114 Försvarhögskolan 112
Street-by-Street map 89 Thielska Galleriet 99 Foucquet, Jacques 21
Djurgårdsstaden 98 Erixson, Sven 135 Fountains
Doctors 193 Estelle, Princess 27 Karlaplan 105
Drama 176, 177 Estoniaminnesvården Monument Molin’s Fountain 65, 66
Dramaten see Kungliga 90–91 Orpheus (Milles) 70, 140, 152
Dramatiska Teatern Street-by-Street map 88 Frank, Josef 40
Drentwett, Abraham 52 Etiquette 191 Franzén, Anders 96
Drinks see Alcohol Etnografiska museet 36, 110 Fredrik I, King 58
Drottningholm 24, 143, 144, 146–9 Eugen, Prince 99, 116 Fredrikshald 21
Chinese Pavilion 148–9 European Union 27 Freyschuss, Adolf 74
Court Theatre 29, 149, 176, 177 Evert Taube (Gordon) 59 Friberg, Charles
Great Days in Stockholm 9, 11 Evert Taubes Terrass 59 Karl XV’s Equestrian Statue 89
map 148 Excursions from Stockholm 143– Fridman, Sigrid 118
Palace Park 149 53 Frölén, Sture 39, 110, 112
Stockholm’s Best: Architecture the Archipelago 152–3
38, 39 Drottningholm 146–9 G
Stockholm’s Best: Museums 36 map 144–5 Gahn, Wolter 110
Theatre Museum 149 transport 144, 204 Galleries see Museums and
galleries
E F Gamla Stan 10, 11, 47–61
Eckstein, Johan Niklas 148 Fåfängan 11, 132 area map 47
Ehrenstrahl, David Klöcker von Fagerberg, Carl 113, 126 hotels 158–60
Drottningholm 148 Falaise III (Strindberg) 93 restaurants 166
Ridderhuset 60 Falk, Lars Erik 115 Royal Palace 50–53
Storkyrkan 55 Fälting, Per Edvin 96 Slottsbacken 48–54
Ekoparken 122, 123, 124 The Fantastic Paradise (Tinguely/ Garbo, Greta 135, 140
see also Norrtull and Ekoparken Saint Phalle) 35 Garden Fair 28
Ekwall, Knut Street-by-Street map 78 Gardens see Parks and gardens
The Proposal 92 Farmers’ Party 26 Gärdet 110, 112
Eldh, Carl Fashion see also Östermalm & Gärdet
Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum 37, shopping 186, 187 Gärdet Race (vintage cars) 28
122–3 Stockholm Fashion Week 31 Gate, Simon 70, 118
Dansen 117 Fast food 173 Gays and lesbians
Karlavägen 105 Ferries 199, 204 Stockholm Pride 29
Sången 117 Fersen, Count Axel von 151 Gibson, Chris 121
Södra Teatern 130 Festivals 28–31, 174–5 Gjörwell, C C 120
Stadion 113 Film see Cinema Glemme, Erik 114
Eldkvarn 23 Filmhuset 111 Globen 39, 135
Elite Race (trotting) 28 Finnhamn 153 Globen Gala 31
Email 196 Finska Kyrkan Gold Room (Historiska museet)
Embassies 191 Street-by-Street map 49 106, 107
Emergencies 192–3 Fire services 192, 193 Golf 181
Engelbrektskyrkan 113 Fishing 42, 43, 181 Gordon, Willy 59, 105
Engelska Kyrkan 139 Fjäderholmarna 37, 123, 143, 152, Göta Lejon 176, 177
Englund, Bo 121 175 Götestam, Staffan 90
Engström, Leander 99 Fjällgatan 11, 39, 131 Göthe, Erik 66
Enlightenment 22 Fogelberg, Bengt 128 Grand Hôtel 8, 10, 11, 81
Entertainment 174–9 Fogelström, Per Anders 131 Granturismo 30
ballet and dance 176, 177 Folk music 177 Grate, Eric
booking tickets 174, 175, 177, Folkoperan 176, 177 Karlavägen 105
190 Food and drink Kungstornen 71
for children 175 Bake & Chocolate Festival 30 Rålambshovsparken 115
listings 174 crayfish season 29 Great Belt, crossing of the (1657)
nightlife 178–9 The Flavours of Stockholm 19, 21, 148
outdoor concerts and festivals 164–5 Great Power Era 20–21
174–5 shops 183, 187 Green Split (Kandinsky) 82
222  GENERAL INDEX

Green travel 191, 200 Hallwyl, Wilhelmina von 75 Horses (cont.)

Grinda 153 Hallwylska museet 34, 37, 75 Nationaldagsgaloppen 29
Grip, Bo Jonsson 150 Handelshögskolan 119, 141 riding 180, 181
Gripsholms Slott 150 Hanseatic League 17, 56 Stockholm International Horse
Gröna Lund 9, 10, 11, 28, 97, 138, Hansson, Per Albin 26 Show 30
175 Haring, Keith 91 Svensk Travkriterium 30
Grönwall, Ernst 110 Hårleman, Carl Hospitals 193
Grünewald, Isaac 70, 99, 130 Centralbadet 71 Hotels 156–61
Grut, Torben 112 Drottningholm 146 Blasieholmen & Skeppsholmen
Gud på himmelsbågen (Milles) 139 Jacobs Kyrka 66 159–61
Gustav II Adolf, King 18–19 Klara Kyrka 68 booking 156
death at Lützen 20 Observatoriemuseet 118 budget hotels 158
Livrustkammaren 54 Riddarholmskyrkan 58 chain hotels 156
Royal Palace 53 Royal Chapel 53 City 158–61
statue of 62, 64 Royal Palace 38, 50, 52, 75 designer hotels 158–9
Thirty Years’ War 20 Stenbockska Palatset 59 discounts 156
tomb 58 Ulriksdals Slott 127 Djurgården 159
Vasa 94 Hårleman, Johan 151 Gamla Stan 158–60
Gustav III, King 22, 24–5, 98 Hasselberg, Per 99 historic hotels 159–60
Amphion 109 Hasselberg-Olsson, Elisabeth 60 Kungsholmen & Vasastan 158–
assassination 22, 25, 52, 58 Haupt, Georg 61
Drottningholm 148, 149 Arvfurstens Palats 67 luxury hotels 160
Gripsholms Slott 150 Drottningholm 146 modern hotels 161
Gustav III’s Paviljong 36 Nationalmuseum 84 Östermalm & Gärdet 158–61
Hagaparken 124–5 Royal Palace 52, 53 prices and payment 156
Konstakademien 68 Hazelius, Artur 87, 89, 92 Södermalm 158–61
Konsthögskolan 81 Health 193 Hötorget 70, 140
Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 75 Hebel, Hans 66 Hovstallet 74
Livrustkammaren 49 Hedberg, Hans 40 Husberg, Lars Erik 105
Museum of Antiquities 25, 36, Hedin, Sven 110 Huvudskär 145
51, 53 Hedqvist, Paul 115
Nobelmuseet 56 Hedvall, Björn 110 I
Obelisk 48 Hedvig Eleonora, Queen 127, 147, Ice-skating 30, 66, 81, 181
Royal Palace 51, 52, 53 148 IF Stockholm Open 30
statues of 49, 51 Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka 73 Industrialization 23
Wrangelska Palatset 58 Heliga Korsets Kapell 119, 135 Insect bites 193
Gustav III’s Pavilion (Cederholm) Hemberg, Elli Insurance 193
124 The Orb 115 Interior decoration shops 186, 187
Gustav IV Adolf, King 22, 125 Hennen, Jobst 57 Internet facilities 196, 197
Gustav V, King Hercules (de Vries) 146 Isaac, Aaron 120
“Courtyard speech” 26 Hermansson, Gustaf 132 Israelsson, Moses 130
Etnografiska museet 110 Hermansson, Willy 133 Iwersson, Gottlieb 67
Handelshögskolan 119 Hessenstein, Fredrik Wilhelm von
Gustav VI Adolf, King 26 58 J
Östasiatiska museet 80 Hidemark, Ove 130 Jacobs Kyrka 66, 177
tomb 58 Hill, Carl Fredrik 99 Street-by-Street map 65
Ulriksdals Slott 36, 127 Hilleström, Pehr 118, 149 Jacobsson, Ernst 112
Gustav Vasa, King 18, 56, 66 Court Life at Drottningholm 24–5 Jansson, Eugène
Birger Jarls Torn 59 Hillfon, Hertha 108 Hornsgatan 99
The Entry of King Gustav Vasa Hirst, Damien 91 Jazz 175, 178, 179
(Larsson) 85 Historiska museet 35, 36, 106–7 Jerke, Erik 134
Gripsholms Slott 150 History 17–27 Jews
Klara Kyrka 68 Hjertén, Sigrid 99 Judiska museet 36, 120
statue of 93 Hjortzberg, Olle Judiska Teatern 176, 177
Vaxholm 152 Engelbrektskyrkan 113 Synagogan 83
Wrangelska Palatset 58 Klara Kyrka 68 Jogging 180
Gustav Vasa Kyrka 119, 141 Rådhuset 114 Johan III, King 18
Gustavian Era 22 Röda Bergen 121 Djurgården 87
Gustavian style 25, 41 Sofia Kyrka 132 Humlegården 72
Gyllenhielm, Karl Karlsson 120 Tekniska Högskolan 113 Jacobs Kyrka 66
Gyllenstierna, Carl 151 Högalidskyrkan 134 Klara Kyrka 68
Hök, Johan Hansson 130 Johannes Kyrka 141
H Holidays, public 31 Johansson, Aron 68
Haga Parkmuseum 123, 124 Horn, Field Marshal Gustaf 67, 83 Johansson, Cyrillus 114, 152–3
Hagaparken 11, 124–5 Hornsgatan (Jansson) 99 Johnsson, Ivar 113, 118, 119, 121,
Hägg, Gunder 113 Horses 126
Hald, Edward 70 Elite Race (trotting) 28 Jolin, Einar 99
Hallwyl, Walther von 75 Hovstallet 74 Jolly-Dahlström, Hedy 105
 GENERAL INDEX  223

Jones, Arne 115 Kristina, Queen (cont.) Libraries (cont.)

Jönsson, Anders 91, 121 Kungsträdgården 65, 66 Kungliga Biblioteket 72
Judiska museet 36, 120 Royal Palace 50, 52 Stadsbiblioteket 39, 119, 136,
Judiska Teatern 176, 177 tomb 58 141
Jungstedt, Axel 67 Ulriksdals Slott 127 Lichtenstein, Roy 26
Junibacken 9, 37, 90, 175 Kristler, Hans Jakob 127 Lidingö Race (cross-country) 30
Street-by-Street map 88 Krok, Olof 131 Life in the Inns (Sergel) 24
Kronberg, Julius 72, 75, 151 Liljefors, Bruno 99
K Krueger, Ivar 26 Play 113
Kaknästornet 110–11, 139 Kulturhuset 10, 11, 69, 175 Liljevalch, Carl Fredrik 97
Källerno 39 Kungliga Biblioteket 72 Liljevalchs Konsthall 36, 97, 138
Kalmar Union 17 Kungliga Borgen Lilljekvist, Fredrik 74
Kandell, John 41 (Ladugårdsgärde) 111 Lindberg, Gusten 75
Kandinsky, Wassily Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 23, Lindegren, Agi 97, 119
Green Split 82 38, 74–5, 176, 177 Lindgren, Astrid 90
Karl IX, King 18 Kungliga Myntkabinettet 37, 54 Junibacken 9, 88, 90, 175
Karl X Gustav, King 19, 21, 148 Street-by-Street map 49 Lindh, Anna 27
Karl XI, King 19, 109 Kungliga Operan 10, 11, 66–7, Lindroos, Bengt 110
Djurgården 87 176, 177 Lindström, Sune 105, 108
Drottningholm 148 Street-by-Street map 64 Ling, P H 113
Ladugårdsgärde 111 Kungliga Slottet see Royal Palace Linné, Carl von 22, 126
Royal Palace 21, 51 Kungsholmen 114–17 Linnqvist, Hilding 113, 119, 132
Karl XII, King 19 area map 114 Livrustkammaren 10, 11, 36, 54
bodyguard 79, 80 hotels 158–61 Street-by-Street map 49
death 21 restaurants 169 Lo-Johansson, Ivar 134
Karlbergs Slott 120 Stadshuset 116–17 Lost property 192, 193
Livrustkammaren 36 Kungstornen 70–71, 141 Louise, Queen 36, 127
pocket watch 21 Kungsträdgården 8, 10, 11, 66 The Love Lesson (Watteau) 84
statue of 65, 66 entertainment 28, 29, 30 Lovisa Ulrika, Queen 54, 146, 147,
Wrangelska Palatset 58 skating rink 30 148, 149
Karl XIII, King Street-by-Street map 64–5 Lucia celebrations 31
statue of 66 Luncheon on the Grass (Picasso) 82
Karl XIV Johan, King 22–3 L Lundberg, Theodor 75
Ladugårdsgärde 111 Ladugårdsgärde 111 Lundborg, Gösta 128
Rosendals Slott 98–9 The Lady with the Veil (Roslin) 85 Lundgren, Per 127
Royal Palace 53 Lagerlöf, Selma 26, 135 Lundin, Fredrik 132
statue of 128 Lallerstedt, Erik Lundqvist, John 135
tomb 58 Konstakademien 68 Lutheran State Church 18
Karl XV, King 74, 127 Matteus Kyrka (Röda Bergen) Lützen, Battle of (1632) 19, 20, 49
equestrian statue 89 121
Karl XVI Gustaf, King see Carl XVI Tekniska Högskolan 113 M
Gustaf, King Vaxholm 153 Måås-Fjetterström, Märta 40
Karl Knutsson Långa Raden Magazines 197
tomb 58 Street-by-Street map 79 Magnus Eriksson, Code of 17
Karlavägen 105 Långholmen 134 Magnus Ladulås, King 17
Karlbergs Slott 120–21 Language 191 tomb 58
Kastellholmen 81 phrase book 231–2 Mälaren, Lake 17, 143
Katarina Kyrka 9, 11, 130 Lärkstaden 113 Malmarna & Further Afield 103–
Katarinahissen 9, 11, 129 Larssen, Henning 133 35
Kina Slott (Drottningholm) 149 Larsson, Carl area map 103
Kinesiska Pagoden 125 Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 75 Historiska museet 106–7
King’s Birthday (30 April) 28, 80 Kungliga Operan 67 Kungsholmen 114–17
Kipketer, Wilson 113 Nationalmuseum 85 Norrtull & Ekoparken 122–7
Klara Kyrka 68 Sundborn 41 Östermalm & Gärdet 104–13
Klemming, Greta 71 Thielska Galleriet 99 Stadshuset 116–17
Klemming, Wilhelm 71 Larsson, Gottfrid 120 Vasastan 118–21
Kolthoff, Gustaf 97 Larsson, Gunnar 126 Malmsten, Carl 70, 117, 127
Konserthuset 70, 140, 176, 177 Larsson, Karin 40 Mandela, Nelson 135
Konstakademien 68 Larsson, Stieg 129 Månsson, Filip 113, 114
Konsthögskolan 81 Leipzig, Battle of (1813) 23 Månsson, Sven 98
Street-by-Street map 78 Lejonslätten Maps
Köpmantorget 49 Street-by-Street map 88–9 Blasieholmen & Skeppsholmen
Kraitz, Gustav 105 Leksaksmuseet 37, 133, 175 77
Kreuger, Nils 99 Lewerentz, Sigurd 135 City 63, 140–41
Kristian I, King 17, 18 Liberal Party 26 Djurgården 87, 138–9
Kristian II, King of Denmark 56 Liberty, Age of 22 Drottningholm 148
Kristina, Queen 19 Libraries excursions from Stockholm 144–5
Kungliga Myntkabinettet 54 Kulturhuset 69 ferry routes 204
224  GENERAL INDEX

Maps (cont.) Milles, Carl (cont.) Museums and galleries (individual)

Fjällgatan 131 Gustav Vasa statue 93 (cont.)
Gamla Stan 47 Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 75 Konstakademien 68
Greater Stockholm 13, 15 Millesgården 37, 152 Kungliga Myntkabinettet 37, 49,
Hagaparken 124–5 Orpheus 70, 140, 152 54
Kungsholmen 114 Skogskyrkogården 135 Långa Raden 79
Kungsträdgården 64–5 Tekniska Högskolan 113 Långholmen 134
Lejonslätten: Street-by-Street Ulriksdals Slott 127 Leksaksmuseet 37, 133, 175
map 88–9 Millesgården 37, 152 Liljevalchs Konsthall 36, 97, 138
Malmarna & Further Afield 103 Mobile phones 196, 197 Livrustkammaren 10, 11, 36, 49,
Norrtull & Ekoparken 122 Moderna Dansteatern 176, 177 54
Northern Europe 13 Moderna museet 8, 10, 11, 36, Medelhavsmuseet 36, 64, 67
Östermalm & Gärdet 104 82–3 Medeltidsmuseum 34, 36, 61, 175
Skansen 100–101 Stockholm’s Best: Architecture Millesgården 37, 152
Skeppsholmen: Street-by-Street 39 Mining Museum (Utö) 153
map 78–9 Stockholm’s Best: Museums 35 Moderna museet 8, 10, 11, 35,
Slottsbacken 48–9 Street-by-Street map 79 36, 39, 79, 82–3
Södermalm & South of Söder Molin, Johan Peter 66 Museifartygen 37, 88, 91
128, 137 Molin’s Fountain 65, 66 Museum Tre Kronor 36
Stockholm, the City on the Water Möller, Carl 121 Nationalmuseum 8, 34, 36, 84–5,
42–3 Möller-Nielsen, Egon 112, 115 177
Stockholm and surroundings 13, Möllerberg, Nils 118 Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet 126,
14–15 Monasterium Pacis Mariae 151 175
Stockholm in 1640 20 Moneo, Rafael 39, 79, 82 Nobelmuseet 56
Stockholm’s Best: Architecture Money 194–5 Nordiska museet 8, 11, 35, 36, 39,
38–9 Kungliga Myntkabinettet 37, 49, 89, 92–3, 138
Stockholm’s Best: Museums 34–5 54 Observatoriemuseet 118
Street Finder 206–18 Monogram (Rauschenberg) 82 Östasiatiska museet 36, 78, 80
Sweden 12–13 Monuments Postmuseum 37, 57
Swedish empire 20 Estoniaminnesvården Rosendals Slott 36, 98–9
Transport map Back endpaper Monument 88, 90–91 Royal Palace 34, 36, 38, 49,
Tunnelbana 202 Vega Monument 126 50–53
Vasastan 118 Mosebacke 9, 11, 130 Schefflelerska Palatset 36–7,
Marathons 29, 30 Mosquitoes 193 118
Marchi, Giuseppe 59, 151 Mother Svea 61 Sjöhistoriska museet 35, 37,
Marcus, Gert 105 Munch, Edvard 99 108–9, 139
Maré, Rolf de 67 Munthe, Ulf 119 Skansen 9, 10, 11, 35, 36, 100–
Maria Eleonora, Queen Museifartygen 37, 91 101, 175, 177
tomb 58 Street-by-Street map 88 Skattkammaren (Treasury) 36, 53
Maria Magdalena Kyrka 137 Museums and galleries (general) Spårvägsmuseet 37, 132
Mariaberget 134 admission fees 190 Spritmuseum 37, 91
Marie Antoinette, Queen of France opening hours 190 Stockholm’s Best 34–5
151 Museums and galleries (individual) Stockholms Stadsmuseum 36,
Marieberg 115 ABBA Museum 97 129
Mariefred 143, 150–51 Almgrens Sidenväveri & Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet 37,
Marionetteatern 176, 177 Museum 37, 129 71, 140, 141
Markelius, Sven 114 ArkDes 8, 36, 79, 80 Swedish Museum of Performing
Markets 183 Armémuseum 74 Arts 37, 74
Christmas 31, 183 Bellmanmuseet 37, 134 Tekniska museet 109
Marklund, Bror 106 Biologiska museet 89, 97 Theatre Museum
Mårten Trotzigs Gränd 57 Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum 37, (Drottningholm) 149
Masreliez, Louis 67, 125 122–3 Thielska Galleriet 36, 99, 139
Masreliez, Jean Baptiste 52 Chinese Pavilion Tre Kronor Museum 50, 53
Mathsson, Bruno 40 (Drottningholm) 148–9 Ulriksdals Slott 36, 127
Matteus Kyrka 121 Dansmuseet 37, 67 Vasamuseet 8, 10, 11, 35, 37, 88,
Medborgarplatsen 9, 133 Drottningholm 36, 146–9 94–6, 138, 175
Medelhavsmuseet 36, 67 Etnografiska museet 36, 110 Waldemarsudde 36, 99, 138
Street-by-Street map 64 Fjäderholmarna 37, 152, 175 Music
Medeltidsmuseum 34, 36, 61, 175 Gripsholms Slott 150 Berwaldhallen 108
Mellin, Claes 133 Gustav III’s Museum of classical music 176–7
Meredith, Ted 113 Antiquities 25, 36, 51, 53 festivals 29, 30
Michelangelo 68 Gustav III’s Paviljong 36 folk and church music 177
Midnight Race 29 Haga Parkmuseum 123, 124 jazz 178, 179
Midsummer Eve 29 Hallwylska museet 34, 37, 75 Music at the Palace 30, 176–7
Milles, Carl 123 Historiska museet 35, 36, 106–7 music pubs 178, 179
The Archer 97 Judiska museet 36, 120 musicals 176
The Aviator 105 Junibacken 9, 37, 88, 90, 175 Musikaliska 85, 176, 177
Gud på himmelsbågen 139 Karl XI’s Gallery 21, 51, 52 outdoor concerts 174–5
 GENERAL INDEX  225

Music (cont.) Olympic Games (1912) 112–13 Palme, Olof 27, 72, 140–41
rock and pop 178, 179 Opening hours 190 Palmstedt, Erik 56, 57, 67
shopping 186, 187 banks 194 Pantomimteatern 176, 177
Swedish 174 restaurants 162 The Parhelion Painting 16, 55
Swedish Museum of Performing shops 182, 190 Parking 201
Arts 74 Opera 10, 176, 177 Parks and gardens
Musikaliska 85, 176, 177 Drottningsholm Slottsteater 29 Bellevueparken 122–3
Myrdal, Alva 114 Kungliga Operan 10, 11, 66–7, Bergianska trädgården 126
Myrdal, Gunnar 114 176, 177 Drottningholm 146–7, 149
Myrsmeden, Ragnar 114 The Orb (Hemberg) 115 Ekoparken 122, 123
Öresund Bridge 27, 199 Fåfängan 11, 132
N Orpheus (Milles) 70, 140, 152 Hagaparken 11, 124–5
Nakamura, Masao 110 Orrefors glassworks 118 Kungsträdgården 8, 10, 11, 28,
Napoleon I, Emperor 23 Oscar I, King 128, 148 30, 64–6
National Day (6 June) 29, 80 Oscar II, King Långholmen 134
Nationaldagsgaloppen 29 Djurgårdsbron 90 Millesgården 152
Nationalmuseum 8, 34, 84–5, 177 Hovstallet 74 Observatorielunden 141
Stockholm’s Best: Museums 36 Kungliga Operan 67 Rålambshovsparken 115
Nature reserves Östermalmshallen 73 Södra Station area 133
Ekoparken 122, 123 Royal Palace 52 Tessinparken 112
Fjäderholmarna 123, 152, 175 Sofia Kyrka 132 Trädgårdar 99
Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet 126, 175 Oscars-Teatern 176, 177 Ulriksdals Slott 127
Nedre Gärdet 112 Östasiatiska museet 36, 80 Vanadislunden 121
Nesjar, Carl 82 Street-by-Street map 78 Vasaparken 120
New Year’s Eve 31 Östberg, Ragnar 35, 105 Vita Bergen 9, 11, 132
Newspapers 197 Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum 123 Parkteatern 66, 176, 177
Nightlife 178–9 Diplomatstaden 108 Parliament
Nilsson, Gunnar 105 Norr Mälarstrand 114 Parliamentary wanderings 61
NK clock 65 Rådhuset 114 Riksdagshuset 60–61
Nobel, Alfred 70, 108 Sjöhistoriska museet 109 Pasch, John 122
Nobel Day 31 Stadshuset 114, 116 Passports 190
Nobel Prizes 31, 56, 70, 116 Östermalm & Gärdet 104–13 Pauli, Georg 61, 75, 113
Nobelmuseet 56 area map 104 Performing Arts, Swedish Museum
Norberg, J 114 Historiska museet 106–7 of 37, 74
Nordahl, Gustaf 133 hotels 158–61 Persson, Sigurd 41, 72
Nordenskiöld, Adolf Erik 126 restaurants 168–9 Peter I (the Great), Tsar 19
Nordic Seven Years War (1563–70) Östermalmshallen 73 Petersson, Axel 99
18 Outdoor activities 180–81 Pharmacies 193
Nordiska museet 8, 11, 36, 92–3, What to Buy in Stockholm 185 Philharmonikerna i det Gröna 29
138 Outdoors Fair 28 Phrase book 231–2
Stockholm’s Best: Architecture 39 Oxenstierna, Axel 18 Picasso, Pablo
Stockholm’s Best: Museums 35 Axel Oxenstiernas Palats 48 Luncheon on the Grass 82
Street-by-Street map 89 Oxenstierna, Bengt Bengtsson Pilo, C G 24
Nordström, Karl 99 58 Piper, Fredrik Magnus 122, 124, 125
Norr Mälarstrand 114 Planetarium
Norrtull and Ekoparken 122–7 P Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet 126
area map 122 Palaces Play (Liljefors) 113
Hagaparken 124–5 Arvfurstens Palats 64, 67 Police 192
restaurants 170 Axel Oxenstiernas Palats 48 Pomodoro, Arnoldo 105
Notke, Berndt Bååtska Palatset 83 Postal services 196–7
St George and the Dragon 55 Bondeska Palatset 21, 60 Postmuseum 37, 57
Nurmi, Paavo 113 Chinese Pavilion Precht, Burchardt 119
(Drottningholm) 148–9 Propaganda festival 29
O Drottningholm 9, 11, 24, 36, 38, The Proposal (Ekwall) 92
Obelisk 39, 143, 144, 146–9 Prostitutes 192
Street-by-Street map 48 Haga Slott 125 Public holidays 31
Observatorielunden 141 Hallwylska museet 34, 37, 75 Pubs 172–3
Observatoriemuseet 118 Karlbergs Slott 120–21 music pubs 178, 179
Odenplan 141 Rosendals Slott 36, 98–9 Punsch 165
Ohlsson, Olof Thorwald 112, 120 Royal Palace 8, 10, 11, 32, 34, 36, Puppets
Öhrström, Edvin 38, 49, 50–53 Marionetteatern 176, 177
Crystal Vertical Accent in Glass Sagerska Palatset 67
and Steel 69 Schefflelerska Palatset 36–7, 118 R
Olaus Petri 55 Stenbockska Palatset 59 Rådhuset 114
statue of 48 Steninge Slott 151 Radio 197
Oldenburg, Claes 26 Tessinska Palatset 49, 54 Radio-och TV-husen 105
Olof Skötkonung, King 17, 54 Ulriksdals Slott 36, 127 Railways see Trains
Olsson, Olle 119 Wrangelska Palatset 38, 58 Rainfall 30
226  GENERAL INDEX

Rålambshovsparken 115 Royal Palace (cont.) Shopping (cont.)

Raoul Wallenbergs Torg 85 Stockholm’s Best: Museums 34, sport and leisure 186
Rauschenberg, Robert 36 tax-free 182
Monogram 82 Street-by-Street map 48–9 toys and baby equipment
Redtmer, Mårten 96 Royal Philharmonic Orchestra 29, 186–7
Reformation 18, 59 70, 175, 176 VAT (moms) 182
Rehn, Jean Eric 51, 53, 73, 146, 147 Rubens, Peter Paul 52 What to Buy in Stockholm 184
Rembrandt Bacchanal on Andros 34 wines and spirits 183
The Conspiracy of the Batavians Ryssviken 138 Sigismund, King of Poland 18
under Claudius Civilis 84 Silvia, Queen 51, 80
Responsible tourism 191 S Sjöbert, Josabeth 131
Restaurants 162–73 Safety 192–3 Sjögren, Nils 109, 119, 130
Blasieholmen & Skeppsholmen Sagerska Palatset 67 Sjöhistoriska museet 35, 37, 108–
167–8 Sahlin, Kasper 73 9, 139
booking 163 Sailing 180 Skansen 100–101, 175
children in 163 St George and the Dragon (Notke) Christmas at Skansen 31
City 166–7 55 Great Days in Stockholm 9, 10,
Djurgården 168 Saint Phalle, Niki de 11
fast food 173 The Fantastic Paradise 35, 78 music 177
The Flavours of Stockholm 164–5 Nana’s Fountain 133 Stockholm’s Best: Museums 35,
Further Afield 171 Sales 31, 182 36
Gamla Stan 166 Salvius, Johan Adler 55 Traditional Fair 30
Kungsholmen 169 Sandberg, Aron 105, 114 Skating Premiere 30
Norrtull & North of Stockholm Sandberg, Gustaf 114 Skattkammaren (Treasury) 36, 53
170 Sandhamn 11, 153 Skeppsholmen see Blasieholmen &
opening hours 162 Sången (Eldh) 117 Skeppsholmen
Östermalm & Gärdet 168–9 Scandinavian Sail and Motor Boat Skeppsholmen cannons 80
prices and tips 163 Show 30 Skeppsholmen Church 78
reading the menu 163 Schefflelerska Palatset 36–7, 118 Skogskyrkogården 39, 119, 135
smoking 162 Scholander, F W 83, 127 Sköld, Otte 61
Södermalm 170–71 Schröder, Engelhard 73 Slottsbacken 48–54
A Taste of Stockholm festival 29 Schultheis, Jakob 97 Street-by-Street map 48–9
Vasastan 169–70 Scuba-diving 181 Slussen 9, 11, 128
vegetarian food 162 Security 192–3 Smoking 162, 191
what to drink 163, 165 Seglora Church 101 Smörgåsbord 164
see also Food and drink Sehlstedt, Elias 153 Snorre Sturlasson 17
Riddarfjärden 42 Selder, Björn 121 Social Democrat Party 26, 27
Riddarholmen 10, 11, 58, 59, 137 Sergel, Johan Tobias Söder Cottages 11, 39, 131
Riddarholmskyrkan 10, 11, 58 Adolf Fredriks Kyrka 72 Södermalm & South of Söder 11,
Riddarhuset 60 Amor and Psyche 85 102, 128–35
Riddarhusmusik 177 Arvfurstens Palats 67 A 30-minute walk around
Riding 180, 181 grave 72 Södermalm 137
Riksbank 60–61 Gustav III’s Museum of area map 128
Riksdagshuset 60–61 Antiquities 53 Fjällgatan 131
Rock and pop music 178, 179 Hötorget 70 hotels 158–61
Röda Bergen 121 Klara Kyrka 68 restaurants 170–71
Rodhe, Lennart 115 Kungliga Operan angels 67 Södra Station area 133
Roman, Johan Helmich 133 Life in the Inns 24 Södra Teatern 9, 130, 176, 177
Romare, Bengt 106 statue of Gustav III 49, 51 Sofia Albertina, Princess 64, 67
Rörstrandsgatan 120 Sergels Torg 69, 140 Sofia Kyrka 9, 132
Rosenbad 68 Sherman, Georg 106 Sofia Magdalena, Queen 24, 25, 52
Rosendals Slott 36, 98–9 Ships see Boats Soop, Anna 151
Roskilde, Peace of (1658) 19, 20 Shopping 182–7 Souvenirs 184–5, 186, 187
Roslin, Alexander antiques 186 SpaghettiOperan Regina 176, 177
The Lady with the Veil 85 books 186, 187 Sparre, Baron Carl 122
Round Lidingö Race 28 delicatessen 187 Sparre, Lars 58
Royal Chapel 50, 53 department stores 182–3 Spårvägsmuseet 37, 132
Royal Dramatic Theatre see design and interior decoration Speed limits 199, 200
Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 186, 187 Sports
Royal National City Park 122, 123, fashion 186, 187 events 28–31
124 markets 183 outdoor activities 180–81
Royal Palace 32, 50–53 music and multimedia 186, shopping 186, 187
Changing of the Guard 8, 10, 11, 187 Spring in Stockholm 28
50 opening hours 182, 190 Spring Salon 97
Great Days in Stockholm 8, 10 paying 182 Spritmuseum 37, 91
Livrustkammaren 36 sales 31, 182 Squares
Skattkammaren (Treasury) 36 souvenirs and handicrafts 186, Blasieholmstorg 83
Stockholm’s Best: Architecture 38 187 Hötorget 70, 140
 GENERAL INDEX  227

Squares (cont.) Stortorget 8, 10, 56 Tessin, Nicodemus the Elder

Karl XII’s Torg 66 Street-by-Street map 48 (cont.)
Raoul Wallenbergs Torg 85 Strååt, Göran 133 Schefflelerska Palatset 118
Sergels Torg 69 Strandvägen 104, 105, 139 Stenbockska Palatset 59
Stortorget 8, 10, 48, 56 Strindberg, August 26 Stockholms Stadsmuseum 129
Stadion 112–13 Falaise III 93 Ulriksdals Slott 127
Stadsbiblioteket 39, 119, 136, 141 The Red Room 23, 83, 130 Tessin, Nicodemus the Younger 38
Stadshuset 10, 11, 116–17, 142 statues of 37, 123, 130 Drottningholm 146
Ståhle, Ephraim 52 Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet 37, Obelisk 48
Stark, Albin 110 71, 140, 141 Royal Chapel 53
Statues Thielska Galleriet 99 Royal Palace 38, 50, 52, 68
Birger Jarl 58 Strindberg, Tore 113 Steninge Slott 151
Blasieholmstorg horses 83 Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet 37, Stockholms Stadsmuseum 129
Dansen 117 71, 140, 141 Storkyrkan 55
Elsa Borg 132 Stüler, August 84 Tessinska Palatset 49, 54
Evert Taube 59 Sture, Sten the Elder 17, 55 Tessinparken 39, 112
The Fantastic Paradise (Tinguely/ Sture, Sten the Younger 56 Tessinska Palatset 54
Saint Phalle) 35, 78 Sturebadet 73 Street-by-Street map 49
Gustav II Adolf 62, 64 Sturegallerian 73 Theatre 176, 177
Gustav III 49, 51 Stureplan 72–3, 141 Confidencen (Ulriksdals Slott)
Gustav Vasa 93 Suffrage, universal 26 127, 176
Karl XII 65, 66 Summer in Stockholm 29 Court Theatre (Drottningholm)
Karl XIII 66 Summerburst 29 149, 176
Karl XIV Johan 128 Sunshine 29 Dansens Hus 71
Karl XV 89 Svensk Travkriterium 30 Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern 23,
Mother Svea 61 Svenskund, Battle of (1790) 22, 24, 38, 74–5, 176, 177
Olaus Petri 48 79 Kungliga Operan 64, 66–7
Strindberg 37, 123, 130 Svensson, Pål 126 Södra Teatern 130
Stenbock, Fredrik 59 Sweden-Norway Union 23 Swedish Museum of Performing
Stenbockska Palatset 59 Swedenborg, Emanuel 22, 100 Arts 74
Stenhammar, Ernst 153 Swedish Academy 22, 24, 56 Teater Galeasen 78
Steninge Slott 151 Swedish Football Championship Theatre Museum
Stenqvist, Nils 126 28 (Drottningholm) 149
Stille, Arvid 39, 110 Swedish Museum of Performing Thiel, Ernest 99
Stock Exchange 56 Arts 37, 74 Thielska Galleriet 36, 99, 139
Stockholm Art Week 28 Swedish Radio (SR) 105 Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) 18–19,
Stockholm BAUHAUS Athletics Swedish Television (SVT) 105, 112 20
29 Swedish Touring Club (STF) 157 Thorén, Stefan 133
Stockholm Beer and Whisky Swimming 42, 181 Thorsjö, Curt 105
Festival 30 Sturebadet 73 Three Kings’ Meeting (1101) 17
Stockholm Bloodbath (1520) 17, Sylvius, Johan 146, 147, 148 Tick bites 193
48, 56 Synagogan 83 Tickets
Stockholm Culture Festival 29 for entertainments 174, 177, 190
Stockholm Culture Night 28 T travel 198, 203
Stockholm Early Music Festival A Taste of Stockholm 29 Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 118
29 Taube, Evert 132 Tinguely, Jean
Stockholm Exhibition (1930) 26, 119 statue of 59 The Fantastic Paradise 35, 78
Stockholm Fashion Week 31 Taube, Hedvig 58 Tipping, in restaurants 163
Stockholm Half-Marathon 30 Tax, VAT (moms) 182 Tjejmilen 30
Stockholm International Boat Taxis 175, 192, 198–9, 201 Torhamn, Gunnar 134, 135
Show 28 Teater Galeasen 78, 176, 177 Törneman, Axel 61, 113
Stockholm International Film Tekniska Högskolan 113 Tourist information 190, 191
Festival 30 Tekniska museet 109 Toys
Stockholm International Horse Telephones 196, 197 Leksaksmuseet 133, 175
Show 30 Television 197 shopping 186–7
Stockholm Music & Arts 29 Tempelman, Olof 125 Trädgårdar 99
Stockholm Oktoberfest 30 Temperatures 31 Trains 199
Stockholm Outdoor 29 Tengbom, Anders 70 from airport 199
Stockholm Pride 29 Tengbom, Ivar 60, 70, 119, 134 local trains 203
Stockholm Street Festival 29 Tengbom, Svante 70 Tunnelbana 175, 192, 202
Stockholm Visitor Centre 156, 157, Tengbom Architects 115 vintage railway (Mariefred) 151
174, 175, 190, 191 Tennis 30, 181 Trams 203
Stockholms Stadsmuseum 36, 129 Tessin, Carl Gustaf 38, 54, 58 Spårvägsmuseet 132
Stockholms Stadsteater 69, 176, Tessin, Nicodemus the Elder 38 Travel 198–205
177 Bååtska Palatset 83 air travel 198–9
Storkyrkan 16, 46, 55 Bondeska Palatset 21 boat trips 143, 145, 151, 204
Great Days in Stockholm 10, 11 Drottningholm 38, 146, 147 buses 175, 203
Street-by-Street map 48 Konstakademien 68 coaches 199
228  GENERAL INDEX

Travel (cont.) Vanadislunden 121 Wallenberg, K A 67

cycling 180, 200, 205 Vasa Era 18 Wallenberg, Raoul 85
driving in Stockholm 200–201 Vasa warship 94–6 Walpurgis Night 28
driving to Stockholm 199 Vasamuseet 94–6, 138, 175 Warhol, Andy 26, 91
ferries 199, 204 Great Days in Stockholm 8, 10, 11 Water sports 180, 181
night transport 175 Stockholm’s Best: Museums 35, Watteau, Antoine
Spårvägsmuseet 132 37 The Love Lesson 84
taxis 175, 192, 198–9, 201 Street-by-Street map 88 Weather 28–31
trains 199, 203 Vasaparken 120 Welfare State 26
trams 203 Vasastan 118–21 Wendelstam, Johan 56
Tunnelbana 175, 192, 202 area map 118 Wenner-Gren, Axel 122
vintage railway (Mariefred) hotels 158–61 Wenner-Gren Center 122
151 restaurants 169–70 Westerberg, Martin 133
Traveller’s cheques 182, 194 Västerbron 115 Westin, Fredrik 66
Tre Kronor fortress 19, 20, 50, 53 Västerlånggatan 10, 11, 57 Westman, Carl 114
Museum Tre Kronor 36, 50, 53 VAT (moms) 182 Westphalia, Peace of (1648) 19,
Treasury (Skattkammaren) 36, 53 Vaxholm 152–3 20
Trotting Vega Monument 126 Wheelchair users see Disabled
Elite Race 28 Vegetarian food 162 travellers
Tunnelbana 175, 192, 202 Verdi, Giuseppe 25 Wickman, Gustaf 68
Tyska Kyrkan 10, 11, 56–7 Victoria, Crown Princess 27, 80, Wide, Edwin 113
125 Wildlife
U Vikings 17, 143, 150 Fjäderholmarna 152
Uhlin & Malm 126 Viksten, Hans 108 Hagaparken 124
Ulriksdals Slott 36, 127 Villa Lusthusporten 89 William-Olsson, Tage 128
Ultvedt, P O 115 Vingboons, Heinrich Wilhelm 60 Winantz, Abraham 118
Underground railway see Vingboons, Justus 60 Wine 163, 165
Tunnelbana Visas 190 shopping 183
UNESCO World Heritage sites Vita Bergen 9, 11, 132 Winter in Stockholm 31
Birka 143 Vodka 165 World War I 27
Drottningholm 11, 36, 39, 143, Vries, Adrian de 149 World War II 26, 27, 83
146 Hercules 146 Wrangel, Carl Gustav 21, 58, 73
Heliga Korsets Kapell 119 Wrangelska Palatset 38, 58
Skogskyrkogården 135 W
United Nations 27 Wadsjö, Harald 114 Y
Utö 153 Wahlman, Lars Israel 113 “The Young Ones” 99
Wåhlström, Ann 41 Youth hostels 157
V Waldemarsudde 36, 99, 138 af Chapman 10, 76, 78, 81, 157
Vallée, Jean de la Walking 136–41, 180, 200
Bondeska Palatset 21 A 30-minute walk around Z
Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka 73 Södermalm 137 Zinkensdamm 137
Karlbergs Slott 120 A 90-minute walk around the Zorn, Anders 99
Katarina Kyrka 130 city centre 140–41
Riddarhuset 60 A 90-minute walk on Djurgården
Wrangelska Palatset 38, 58 138–9
Vallée, Simon de la 60 Christmas walking tours 31
Vällingby 26, 27 Wallander, Sven 70–71, 110, 114
 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  229

Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Photography Permission
people whose contributions and assistance have made Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all those who gave
the preparation of this book possible. permission to photograph at various churches, museums,
restaurants, hotels, shops and other sights that are too
Main Contributor numerous to list individually. Particular thanks to the Guild
Kaj Sandell began his career as a journalist, writing for the of Museum Directors in Stockholm for permitting access
Swedish publishers Åhlén & Åkerlund and Dagens Nyheter, to picture archives as well as making additional photo-
Sweden’s largest daily newspaper, and has contributed to graphing of objects and exhibitions possible.
other guidebooks. For some decades, Kaj Sandell was the
Head of Information at Scania Trucks and Busses and he Picture Credits
has in recent years written several monographs on leading a = above; b = below/bottom; c = centre; f = far; l = left; r =
Swedish companies. right; t = top.

Additional Contributors The publisher would like to thank the following individuals,
Anna Mosesson, Tina Pedersen, James Proctor, Kristin Prouty companies and picture libraries for permission to
reproduce their photographs.
Special Assistance
The Publisher would like to thank Stockholm Visitors Board 4Corners Images: SIME/Anna Serrano 205bl.
(SVB) and their representatives Roland Berndt, Kjell Holm-
strand, Charlotta Lorentz and all other SIS employees for Alamy Images: Sten Andersson 79tc; Marie-Louise Avery
their efforts and support throughout the project. Particular 164cla; Frank Chmura 76; Chad Ehlers 194cl; Peter Forsberg
thanks are also due to: Irina Chiriboga, Dorothée Greitz 165c; imagebroker/Thomas Schneider 205ca; Andrea
(food and drink consultant), Olof Hultin (architectural Innocenti 35crb; Jon Arnold Images Ltd/Russell Young
consultant) Christina Sollenberg-Britton (Swedish design 200ca; Nicholas Pitt 165tl; pixonnet.com/Ingemar Edfalk
consultant). 141cr; Sweden And Swedish 192cr; Anna Yu 193tl.

Senior Managing Editor Bergianska Trädgården: Åsa Stjerna 126b; Bistro pastis
Louise Bostock Lang. Restaurant 166bc; Kosta Boda: Ann Wåhlström 41bl.

Editorial Director Camera Press: Scanpix/Thure Wikberg 139tr; Corbis:

Vivien Crump. Malcom Hanes 44-5; John Hicks 142; Leemage 6–7; Keith
Levit 154-5; Gunnar Cyrén: © BUS 2000 184cl.
Managing Director
Douglas Amrine. Dansmuseum: 37bc; Dreamstime.com: Alexander
Avdeev 10t; Gelia 191bl; Sophysweden 11t; Tupungato
English Translation 64tr: Vvoevale 35cr; Drottningholm Slottsteater: Bengt
Philip Ray. Wanselius 149tr, 149bc.

Editors, English Edition Fjärils & Fågelhuset: 124cla; Fotolia: madeleineforsberg

Jane Hutchings, Caroline Radula-Scott. 1c; Fredrik Rollman 31cr.

Proofreader Getty Images: Sven Nackstrand 201bl; Photo Filip Nystedt

Michelle Clark, Clare Peel. 102; David Rynde Photography, Sweden, david.rynde@
gmail.com 86; Korhan Sezer 2-3; Gondolen Restaurant
Factchecker 171tr. Grand Hôtel: 81br; 157tl; Grodan Grev Ture
Sharon A. Bowker, Kathleen Sauret. Restaurant: 167tr; Grona Lund: 175bl.

DTP, Design & Editorial Assistance Hallwylska museet: 37tr; S. Uhrdin 75c; Hilton
Asad Ali, Emma Anacootee, Jasneet Arora, Liz Atherton, Stockholm Slussen: 161tr; Hornsgatan Hotel: 160bc.
Marta Bescos Sanchez, Sonal Bhatt, Hilary Bird, Kathleen
Blankenship Sauret, Lucinda Cooke, Karen Fitzpatrick, Lydia IMS Bildbyrå: 27tl.
Halliday, Kaberi Hazarika, Stuart James, Priya Kukadia, Maite
Lantaron, Hayley Maher, Alison McGill, Sam Merrell, Deepak Kungliga Myntkabinettet: 49crb, 70br; Jan Eve Olsson
Mittal, Casper Morris, Viveka Mörk, Claire Naylor, Monica 54c; Kungliga Biblioteket: 20br, 21cr, 72ca; Kungliga
Nilsson, Vikki Nousiainen, Anna Ohlsson, Susie Peachey, Husgerådskammaren: Karl XI’s Triumph, Jacques Foucquet
Helen Peters, Marianne Petrou, Lee Redmond, Marisa 21tl, 51tc, 51ca; Alexis Daflos 52tr, 52clb, 53tr, 125bl, 151tc,
Renzullo, Lucy Richards, Ellen Root, Simon Ryder, Sands 146cl, 147tc 147bc, 148tr, 148clb; Håkan Lind 5cl, 50cb,
Publishing Solutions, Azeem Siddiqui, Neil Simpson, Sadie 50cl, 50br, 52cla, 147cr; Kungliga Operan: Mats Bäcker
Smith, Rebecca Taylor, Priyanka Thakur, Nikhil Verma, 64bc, 67tl, 67cl.
Sophie Wright.
Livrustkammaren: 21bl, 25br; Göran Schmidt 25cla, 36cla,
Additional Illustrations 49tl; Nina Heins 54bl.
Jan Rojmar, Jane Bark.
Märta Måås-Fjetterstrom: 40br; Master Anders Restaurant:
Additional Photography 163br, 169br; Medical Products Agency: 193cl; Moderna
Neil Fletcher, Ian O’Leary, Ulf Svensson. museet: Breakfast Outdoors, Pablo Picasso 82bl; Monogram,
Robert Rauschenberg © BUS 2000 82crb, The Child’s Brain,
Artwork Reference Giorgio De Chirico ©BUS 2000 83bl; Per Anders Allsten 82br;
Svenska Aerobilder AB. Wassily Kandinsky 82tr; Museum Tre Kronor: 53br.
230  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Nationalmuseum: 40clb, 41tr, 51cr, 84clb; The Parhelion Hedberg © BUS 2000 40tr, Sigurd Persson © BUS 2000 41tl;
Painting, Urban Målare 16; The Entry of King Gustav Vasa of Stockholms Stadsbyggnadskontor: Stockholms
Sweden in Stockholm 1523, Carl Larsson 18t; Portrait of Erik Stadshus: Jan Asplund 116br, 117tl; The Mosaics in the
XIV, Steven van der Meulen 18c; The Fire at the Royal Palace Golden Hall, Einar Forseth © BUS 2000 116tr; Stockholms
May 7th 1697, Johan Fredrik Höckert 19tr, Portrait of Queen Stadsmuseum: 26clb, 27clb; The Three Crowns Castle,
Kristina, David Beck 19cl; The Death of Gustav II Adolf of Govert Camphuysen 20cla; Gustaf Carleman 23cb;
Sweden at the Battle of Lützen, Carl Wahlbom 20bl; The Newspaper Readers, J. A. Cronstedt 23tl; The Regicide
Crossing of the Belt, Johan Philip Lemke 20–21c; Bringing Anckarström punished in front of the House of Nobility, 25cr;
Home the Body of King Karl XII of Sweden, Gustaf Cederström Stockholms Universitet: Per Bergström 118b;
21br; King Gustav III of Sweden, Lorens Pasch the Younger. Storstockholms brandforsvar: 192br; STF Af Chapman:
22tl; Portrait of the Bernadotte Family, Fredrik Westin 22crb; 159tr; Strindbergsmuseet: 140cla; Per Bergström 71br;
The Coronation of Gustav III of Sweden, Carl Gustav Pilo Stromma Media Bank: 8br; Superstock: image Source 62:
24cla; The Battle at Svensksund, J.T. Schoultz 24clb; A Noisy Stock Connection 85bc; Svenska Akademien: Leif
Dinner, Johan Tobias Sergel 24bc; Conversation at Jansson 24tr; Svenska Handelsbanken AB: Bengt Wanselius
Drottningholm, Pehr Hilleström 24–25c; The Murder of 194bl; Svenska Filminstitutet: Mark Standley 111crb.
Gustav III, A.W. Küssner 25tr; Bacchanal on Andros, Peter
Paul Rubens 34clb Flowers on the Windowsill, Carl Larsson Telenor Group: 196tr; Courtesy of TeliaSonera: 196bc;
40–41c; The Conspiracy of the Batavians under Claudius Thielska Galleriet: Hornsgatan, Eugène Jansson 99tr;
Civilis, Rembrandt 84cla; David and Bathsheba 84bl; The Tidningen Svensk Polis: 192crb.
Love Lesson, Antoine Watteau 84tr; The Lady with the Veil,
Alexander Roslin 85tl; Åsa Lundén 127br; Hans Thorwid Urban Deli Restaurant: 171br, Urban Orzolek 163tl.
150tr; Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet: Staffan Waerndt
126tl, 126c; Peter Nordahl: 137cla, 139br, 140tr; Nordiska Vasamuseet: 88cla, 88cl, 95cra, 95tl, 95cr; Hans
museet: 35bc 92tr, 93tr; Mats Landin 92cl, 93crb, 93tc; Hammarskiöld 4tr, 94tr, 94cla, 94clb, 94br, 95tc, 95crb, 95bl,
Peter Segemark 33tc; Sören Hallgren 92bc. 96br, 96cla, 96tr; Ingrid Vang Nyman: Claes Westlin 40cla;
Restaurang Volt: 168bc.
Östasiatiska museet: 74tl, 80bl.
Pia Wallén: © BUS 2000 184bl; Wedholms Fisk
Posten.se: 197bl; Postmuseum: 57crb; Pressbyran: 197tl; Restaurant: 167br; Jeppe Wikström: 5tr, 8cla, 9cl, 9br,
Pressens bild: 135br; Rolf Hamilton 27cr; Hans T. Dahlskog 17bc, 28cr, 28bl, 29cr, 33cra, 38tr, 38cl, 40cl, 42tr, 42cl, 42clb,
27br; Jan Collsiöö 51br, 72bl, 73br; Jan Delden 69bl; Hans 42br, 57tr, 61tc, 64bl, 65bc, 65cra, 69t, 70tl, 74bc, 75tc, 75bl,
Dahlskog 90br; Hans Rossel: 140bl; Gunnar Seijbolds 81ca, 89cra, 91t, 97tr, 98bl, 104bl, 118tr, 123bl, 124clb,
111bc; Axel Malmström 119bl; Riksarkivet: Richard Ryan: 128tr, 128bl, 129c, 129bl, 130tc, 131crb, 133tr, 136cla, 137tr,
136cr. 138tr, 138br, 141tc, 144cla, 145br, 152cr, 153tr, 153bc, 175tl,
180cla, 180bl, 188-9, 199tl.
Courtesy of SAS Group: 198cb; Scandic Hotels: 156b;
Sjöhistoriska museet: 109 all; Skansen: 9tr, 100-101c; Sheet Map front cover: Alamy Images: Michael Abid.
101tc, 101cra, 101b; Marie Andersson 89bc;
Skogskyrkogården: 135c; Spiritmuseum: 91bc; Front Endpapers – Alamy Images: Frank Chmura Ltr;
Stadsbiblioteket: 119tr; Statens Historiska Museum: Getty Images: David Rynde Photography, Sweden, david.
36br, 106 all, 107 all, 150c, 150bl; Christer Åhlin 35tr; [email protected] Rtc; Superstock: image Source Lbl.
Statens Museum für Vårldskultur: Etnografiska museet –
Bo Gabrielsson 110bc, 110cra; Medelhavsmuseet – Jacket
Ove Kaneberg 64cla; Ostasiatiska museet – Erik Cornelius Front – Alamy Images: Michael Abid; DK Images: James
78cla; Karl Zetterstorm 80bl; Steninge Slott: 151b; Tye bl
Stockholm Arlanda Airport: 198cla; Stockholm Public
Library: 196cl; Stockholm Visitor Center: 190cr; All other images © Dorling Kindersley.
Stockholms Auktionsverk: 25bl; J. L. Sánchez, Hans For further information see: www.dkimages.com

Special Editions of DK Travel Guides To find out more, please contact:

DK Travel Guides can be purchased in bulk in the United States: [email protected]
quantities at discounted prices for use in
in the UK: [email protected]
promotions or as premiums. We are also able
to offer special editions and personalized in Canada: DK Special Sales at specialmarkets@
jackets, corporate imprints, and excerpts from dk.com
all of our books, tailored specifically to meet in Australia: penguincorporatesales@
your own needs. penguinrandomhouse.com.au
 PHRASE BOOK  231

Phrase Book
When reading the imitated pronunciation, stress the part that is Useful Words
underlined. Pronounce each syllable as if it formed part of an big stor stOOr
English word, and you will be understood sufficiently well. small liten leeten
Remember the points below, and your pronunciation will be even hot varm varrm
closer to the correct Swedish. cold kall kall
good bra brah
ai: as in ‘fair’ or ‘stair’ bad dålig dawleeg
ea: as in ‘ear’ or ‘hear’ enough tillräcklig tillraikleeg
ew: like the sound in ‘dew’ open öppen urpen
EW: try to say ‘ee’ with your lips rounded closed stängd staingd
oo: as in ‘book’ or ‘soot’ left vänster vainster
OO: as in ‘spoon’ or ‘groom’ right höger hurger
r: should be strongly pronounced straight on rakt fram rahkt fram
near nära naira
Swedish Alphabetical Order far långt lawngt
In the list below we have not followed Swedish alphabetical order. up/over upp/över ewp/urver
The letters å, ä and ö have been interfiled within the Latin alphabet, down/under ner/under near/ewnder
not ordered after z. early tidig teedee
late sen sehn
You entrance ingång ingawng
exit utgång ewtgawng
There are two words for ‘you’: ‘du’ and ‘ni’. ‘Du’ is the familiar form; ‘ni’ toilet toalett too-alett
is the polite form. It is not impolite to address a complete stranger more mer mehr
with the familiar form. less mindre meendre

In an Emergency Shopping
Help! Hjälp! yelp How much - Hur mycket - hewr mewkeh
Stop! Stanna! stanna! is this? kostar den här? kostar dehn hair
Call a doctor! Ring efter en ring efter ehn I would like … Jag skulle vilja … yah skewleh vilya
doktor! doktor Do you have? Har du/ni …? hahr dew/nee …
Call an ambulance! Ring efter en ring efter ehn I’m just Jag ser mig yah sear may
ambulans! ambewlanss looking bara omkring bahra omkring
Call the police! Ring polisen! ring poleesen Do you take Tar du/ni tahr dew/nee
Call the fire brigade! Ring efter ring efter credit cards? kreditkort? kredeetkoort
brandkåren! brandkawren What time När öppnar ni? nair urpnar nee
Where is the Var finns vahr finnss do you open?
nearest närmaste nairmasteh What time När stänger ni? nair stainger nee
telehone? telefon? telefawn do you close?
Where is the Var finns vahr finnss- This one. den här dehn hair
nearest närmaste nairmasteh That one. den där dehn dair
hospital? sjukhus? shewkhews expensive dyr dewr
cheap billig billig
Communication Essentials size (clothes) storlek stOOrlek
Yes Ja yah white vit veet
No Nej nay black svart svart
Please (offering) Varsågod vahrshawgOOd red röd rurd
Thank you Tack tack yellow gul gewl
Excuse me Ursäkta ewrshekta green grön grurn
Hello Hej hay blue blå blaw
Goodbye Hej då/adjö haydaw/ahyur antiques shop antikaffär anteek-affair
Good night God natt goonutt bakery bageri bahgeree
Morning Morgon morron bank bank bank
Afternoon Eftermiddag eftermiddahg book shop bokhandel bOOkhandel
Evening Kväll kvell butcher’s slaktare slaktareh
Yesterday Igår ee gawr cake shop konditori konditoree
Today Idag ee dahg chemist apotek apoteak
Tomorrow I morgon ee morron fishmonger fiskaffär fisk-affair
Here Här hair grocer speceriaffär spesseree-affair
There Där dair hairdresser frisör frissurr
What? Vad? vah market marknad marrknad
When? När? nair newsagent tidningskiosk teednings-cheeosk
Why? Varför? vahrfurr post office postkontor posstkontOOr
Where? Var? vahr shoe shop skoaffär skOO-affair
supermarket snabbköp snabbchurp
Useful Phrases tobacconist’s tobakshandel tOObaks-handel
travel agency resebyrå reasseh-bewraw
How are you? Hur mår du? hewr mawr dew
Very well, Mycket bra, mewkeh brah,
thank you. tack. tack Sightseeing
Pleased to Trevligt att treavlit att art gallery konstgalleri konnst-galleree
meet you. träffas. traiffas church kyrka chewrka
See you soon. Vi ses snart. vee seas snahrt garden trädgård traidgawrd
That’s fine. Det går bra. dea gawr brah house hus hews
Where is/are …? Var finns …? vahr finnss… library bibliotek beebleeotek
How far is it to …? Hur långt är hewr lawngt ea museum museum mewseum
det till ...? dea till square torg tohrj
Which Hur kommer hewr kommer street gata gahta
way to …? jag till …? yah till … tourist turist- tureest-
Do you speak Talar du/ni tahlar dew/nee information informations- informashOOns
English? engelska? engelska office kontor kontOOr
I don’t understand Jag förstår inte. yah furshtawr inteh town hall stadshus statshews
Could you Kan du/ni kan dew/nee closed for stängt för staingt furr
speak more tala lång- tahla lawng- holiday semester semester
slowly, please? sammare, tack? ssamareh tack bus station busstation bewss-stashOOn
I’m sorry. Förlåt. furrlawt railway station järnvägsstation yairnvaigs-stashOOn
232  PHRASE BOOK

Staying in a Hotel rostat bröd rostat brurd toast

rött vin rurtt veen red wine
Do you have Har ni några hahr nee negra saft safft lemonade
any vacancies? lediga rum? leadiga rewm salt sallt salt
double dubbelrum doobelrewm sås saws sauce
room wih med med doobel sill seell herring
double bed dubbelsäng seng skaldjur skahl-yewr seafood
twin room dubbelrum doobelrewm smör smurr butter
med två med tvaw socker socker sugar
sängar sengar soppa soppa soup
single room enkelrum enkelrewm stekt stehkt fried
room with rum med rewm med strömming strurmming baltic herring
a bath bad bahd te tea tea
shower dusch dewsh torr torr dry
key nyckel newckel ungsstekt ewngs-stehkt baked, roast
I have a Jag har yah hahr vinäger vinaiger vinegar
reservation beställt rum bestellt rewm vispgrädde veesp-graiddeh whipped cream
vitlök veet-lurk garlic
Eating Out vitt vin veett veen white wine
Have you got a Har ni ett hahr nee ett
table for… bord för…? bOOrd furr … Numbers
I would like Jag skulle vilja yah skewleh vilya 0 noll noll
to reserve boka ett bOOka ett 1 ett ett
a table. bord. bOOrd 2 två tvaw
The bill, please. Notan, tack. nOOtan, tack 3 tre trea
I am a Jag är yah air 4 fyra feara
vegetarian vegetarian vegetariahn 5 fem fem
waitress servitris sairvitreess 6 sex sex
waiter servitör sairviturr 7 sju shew
menu meny/ menew/ 8 åtta otta
matsedel mahtseadel 9 nio nee-oo
fixed-price meny med menew med 10 tio tee-oo
menu fast pris fast prees 11 elva elva
wine list vinlista veenlista 12 tolv tolv
glass of water ett glas ett glahss 13 tretton tretton
vatten vatten 14 fjorton f-yoorton
glass of wine ett glas vin ett glahss veen 15 femton femton
bottle flaska flaska 16 sexton sexton
knife kniv k-neev 17 sjutton shewton
fork gaffel gaffel 18 arton ahrton
spoon sked shead 19 nitton nitton
breakfast frukost frewkost 20 tjugo chewgoo
lunch lunch lewnch 21 tjugoett chewgoo-ett
dinner middag middahg 22 tjugotvå chewgoo-tvaw
main course huvudrätt hewvewdrett 30 trettio tretti
starter förrätt furrett 31 trettioett tretti-ett
dish of the day dagens rätt dahgens rett 40 fyrtio furrti
coffee kaffe kaffeh 50 femtio femti
rare blodig blOOdee 60 sextio sexti
medium medium medium 70 sjuttio shewti
well done välstekt vailstehkt 80 åttio otti
90 nittio nitti
Menu Decoder 100 (ett) hundra (ett) hewndra
101 etthundraett ett-hewndra-ett
abborre abborreh perch 102 etthundratvå ett-hewndra-tvaw
ägg aigg egg 200 tvåhundra tvawhewndra
älg ail-y moose 300 trehundra treahewndra
ansjovis anshOOvees anchovies 400 fyrahundra fewrahewndra
apelsin appelseen orange 500 femhundra femhewndra
äpple aippleh apple 600 sexhundra sexhewndra
bakelse bahkelse cake, pastry, tart 700 sjuhundra shewhewndra
banan banahn banana 800 åttahundra ottahewndra
biff biff beef 900 niohundra nee-oohewndra
bröd brurd bread 1,000 (ett) tusen (ett) tewssen
bullar bewllar buns 1,001 etttusenett ett-tewssen-ett
choklad shooklahd chocolate 100,000 (ett) hundra- (ett) hewndra
citron sitrOOn lemon tusen tewssen
dessert dessair dessert 1,000,000 en miljon ehn milyOOn
fisk fisk fish
fläsk flaisk pork
forell fooraill trout Time
frukt fruckt fruit one minute en minut ehn meenewt
glass glass ice cream one hour en timme ehn timmeh
grönsaksgryta grurnsahks-grewta vegetable stew half an hour en halvtimme ehn halvtimmeh
gurka gewrka cucumber ten past one tio över ett teeoo urver ett
hummer hummer lobster quarter past one kvart över ett kvahrt urver ett
kallskuret kall-skuret cold meat half past one halv två halv tvaw
korv koorv sausages twenty to two tjugo i två chewgoo ee tvaw
kött churtt meat quarter to two kvart i två kvahrt ee tvaw
kyckling chewkling chicken two o’ clock klockan två klockan tvaw
lamm lamm lamb 13:00 klockan tretton klockan tretton
lök lurk onion 16:30 sexton och trettio sexton ock tretti
mineralvatten minerahl-vatten mineral water noon klockan tolv klockan tolv
med/utan mehd/ewtan still/sparkling midnight midnatt meednatt
kolsyra kawlsewra Monday måndag mawndahg
mjölk m-yurlk milk Tuesday tisdag teesdahg
nötkött nurtchurtt beef Wednesday onsdag oonssdahg
nötter nurtter nuts Thursday torsdag toorsdahg
öl url beer Friday fredag freadahg
oliver oleever olives Saturday lördag lurrdahg
olja olya oil Sunday söndag surndahg
ost oost cheese
paj/kaka pa-y/kahka pie/cake
potatis potahtis potatoes
peppar peppar pepper
räkor raikoor prawns
ris rees rice
rökt skinka rurkt sheenka cured ham