DRESSMAKING/ TAILORING

DRESSMAKING - craft of sewing clothes or dresses.

LESSON 1: Use of Sewing Tools

LO 1. Identify sewing tools and equipment

SEWING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Sewing equipment different tools are used in garment construction. The skillful use of the different sewing equipment will help
take body measurement and drafting pattern with accuracy and speed.

MEASURING TOOLS
1. Tape Measure - A flexible measuring device used in taking body measurements. The front has the measurement of 150
centimeters and 60 inches on the other side. Fiberglass tape is commonly used by dressmakers.
2. Sewing Gauge - A small ruler with a sliding guide and is about six inches long. This gauge is used for measurements at
hem lines, button holes and areas where other small measurements require checking, such as pleats and tucks. The
gauge is usually made of metal or plastic.
3. Rulers - measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either clear or solid. It is a useful tool to have for measuring and drawing
straight seam lines and cutting lines. It also aids in connecting lines. A clear ruler is also a good tool for marking
buttonholes.
4. Yardstick - is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal. It is used for marking hemlines and checking grainlines
when laying out the pattern.
5. L-square - The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements to the draft pattern. It also divides the garment
into the desired measurement. It has two arms connected perpendicularly.
a.The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
b. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.
6. French Curve -This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and armhole of the pattern.

CUTTING TOOLS
1. Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears - These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. Shears have the
length of 7- 12 inches.
2. Pinking Shears - This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes. This is used to finish seams and raw
edges and to create decorative edges on many types of fabric.
3. Cutting scissors
a. Trimming scissor - It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and snipping slashes.
b. Embroidery scissor - It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp for use in working with fine details
in delicate fabrics and in embroidery work.
c. Buttonhole scissor - This is intended for making buttonholes.
4. Thread Clippers - handy little spring-loaded cutting tool that allows for the snipping of threads. These clippers are
specifically used to snip threads and they are not designed to cut fabric.
5. Seam Ripper - designed for ripping out stitches from seams, either as a result of an error or during alterations.
6. Rotary Cutter and Mat - It works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left or right-handed sewers. It is available in
different sizes with different blades.

MARKING TOOLS
Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to garment fabric pieces and for making alterations on garments.
1. Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker pencil - This is available in white or pastel shades. This chalk pencil is used to make fine lines
on fabric. It has an erasing brush at one end.
2. Liquid Marking Pen - come in two types. There is one that washes out and one that fades after 48 hours.
3. Tailor’s Chalk - This is essential as a marker for use on materials. Tailor‘s chalk is available in a range of colors and
removed by brushing.
4. Wax chalk - This is available in black or white and is used for woollen fabrics. Wax can be removed by pressing.
5. Tracing Wheel - There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated edge and those with a smooth edge. The
serrated edge wheel produces dots on the fabric. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics. The smooth edge
wheel creates a solid line.
6. Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper - also called dressmaker‘s tracing paper is a specially waxed carbon paper that transfer‘s
the tracing wheel‘s markings to the fabric.

PINNING AND SEWING TOOL

1. Pincushion - holds the straight pins and needles while working to prevent accidents.
2. Hand Needle - Used in making temporary stitches and buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand sewing.
3. Sewing Needle Threader - It aids in putting the thread to the needle. It consists of two parts. The handle and the wire.
4. Thimble - A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing.
MATERIALS
1. Fabric - is the cloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabrics, flour sack or catcha is the most appropriate
material for beginners because these are very easy to handle.
2. Thread - is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the garment.

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES

Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It should be used correctly in accordance with the job
requirements.

1. Lockstitch Sewing Machine - This is usually used in homes and sometimes in school. This is also called ―Domestic Sewing
Machine. It is run by foot and may also be converted to electric power machine.
2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine - called straight stitching machine or industrial sewing machine. It has automatic
lubrication and is used by tailors and dressmakers.
3. Over Edging Machine - Other companies call it ―small machine. It finishes the raw edges of the pattern for construction.
4. Embroidery Machine - This is used in making fancy stitches and in making different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabrics
for the Barong Tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and other novelty items.
5. Button Holer Machine - This is used in making buttonholes on garments.
6. Button Attachment Machine - This is used in attaching buttons to the garments.
7. Double Needle Machine - This is used in the construction of the different kinds of clothing especially for the inseam, outseam
and side seam.
8. Bartacking Machine - This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets.

Two Major Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine

The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the upper and lower parts.

The Upper Parts is composed of:

1. Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand.

2. Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the needle.
3. Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is mounted, and the shuttle and lower thread are
placed.

Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm

1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.
2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position.
3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks with the bobbin thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot.
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.
6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.
9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and starts
Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed
1. Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing.
2. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is where the
bobbin threads come out.
3. Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the shuttle
and bobbin case.
4. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing.
5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.
6. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin.

The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel
through the pitman rod.
8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.
9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking
screw on the hinges.

LESSON 2 Carry out measurements and calculations

LEARNING OUTCOME 1 Obtain measurements

Parts of body to be measured can be taken in:

1. The horizontal measurement is taken from the left of the figure to the right.
2. The vertical measurement is taken from the top of the body figure to its base.
3. Circumferential measurement is taken around the body.

A. Vertical Measurement
1. Shirt length - taken from the nape down 2. Sleeve length - taken from the shoulder tip point
the center back to the desired length. down to the desired sleeve length.

3.Length of pants or shorts – measures along the side 4.Crotch or Rise – measured by placing a ruler under the
below the waist band to the desired length of the pants. crotch then measuring below the waistband down to
the top of the level of the ruler.

B. Horizontal Measurements and Circumferential

1. Shoulder - taken from one shoulder point to the other. 2. Bust/Breast - taken around the body with the tape measure
passing over the fullest part of the shoulder blade at the back
and over to the apex.
.
3.Upper arm girth - taken around the fullest part of the 4. Lower arm girth or sleeve width - taken around the arm two
arm in line with the armpit. to three inches below the armpit.

5.Neck measure – taken around the neckline. 6.Waist - taken around the smallest part of the waistline.
Insert two fingers under the tape measure for ease or allowance.

7. Hip - taken around the fullest part of the

hip (buttocks) with two fingers inserted under the 8.Leg hole – taken around the fullest part of the bottom.
tape measure.

LEARNING OUTCOME 2. Perform simple calculations

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

Simple calculation is an easy mathematical application used to determine the accurate measurement of body parts, length and
width of materials and cost needed to create apparel.
In measuring the length and width of materials needed such as fabrics, we also need the use of the Metric measurement system.

Metric Conversion Chart for Fabric and Sewing

1/4 Inch = 0.25 Centimeters 5.5 Inches = 13.97 Centimeters 1 Yard = 0.9144 Meters
1/2 Inch = 1.27 Centimeters 6 Inches = 15.24 Centimeters 2 Yards = 1.8288 Meters
5/8 Inch = 1.59 Centimeters 6.5 Inches = 16.51 Centimeters 3 Yards = 2.7432 Meters
3/4 Inch = 1.905 Centimeters 7 Inches = 17.78 Centimeters 4 Yards = 3.6576 Meters
1 Inch = 2.54 Centimeters 7.5 Inches = 19.05 Centimeters 5 Yards = 4.572 Meters
1.5 Inches = 3.81 Centimeters 8 Inches = 20.32 Centimeters
2 Inches = 5.08 Centimeters 8.5 Inches = 21.59 Centimeters
2.5 Inches = 6.35 Centimeters 9 Inches = 22.86 Centimeters
3 Inches = 7.62 Centimeters 9.5 Inches = 24.13 Centimeters
3.5 Inches = 8.89 Centimeters 10 Inches = 25.4 Centimeters
4 Inches = 10.16 Centimeters 10.5 Inches = 26.67 Centimeters
4.5 Inches = 11.43 Centimeters 11 Inches = 27.94 Centimeters
5 Inches = 12.7 Centimeters 12 Inches = 30.48 Centimeters
LEARNING OUTCOME 3. Estimate Appropriate Quantities

ESTIMATE APPROPRIATE QUANTITIES

In planning a project, it is important to estimate the quantity of materials to be used and the cost involved. Doing estimates will
help you to make the right decisions so that there won‘t be any effort, money and time wasted.

In estimating you should know the size and the number of products to be made and the size of the cloth if it is 36”, 45” or 60”
width. For example, an organizer measuring 12” x 30” with three patch pockets of different designs. For one yard of a 45 width
cacha cloth you can make two organizers. So, for one organizer you can use ½ yard of a cacha cloth. Estimated cost of the cloth
is Php60.00.

The table below shows a sample of materials estimated and the cost good for one project.

LESSON 3 Create design for a simple project

LO 1. Sketch simple project design

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
1. Balance - According to this principle, from the center of the dress, design should be identified on both sides may be
achieved ways:
a. Symmetrically or the formal balance - can be described as having equal "weight" on equal sides of a centrally placed
like a see saw.
b. Asymmetrically or the informal balance – When the structure decoration and accessories are different both sides
from the center of the design. In this design attraction both sides is created by using different accessories.
c. Proportion - refers to the relative size and scale of the various elements in a design.
2. Emphasis – the center of interest
3. Rhythm – these are smooth movement repeated again and again. It is created by repeated use of the design. If there is
rhythm in a design, the eye would move easily from one part to the other.
Rhythm can be created in three ways in a design:
a. Repetition of lines, colors, or accessories. Parallel lines are formed by the use of seams, buttons, embroidery, lace,
etc. which helps uninterrupted eye movement.
b. Radiation - Rhythm can also be created by the radiated lines. These lines are created by gathers Eyes can move easily
from one part to the other on the small lines created by gathers.
c. Gradation - Rhythm can be created by gradual change of lines, shape or shade of the color.
4. Harmony - means a relationship of different portion of a design. Harmony should be achieved through judicious use of
color, shape, and texture to give a feeling of oneness.

ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
1. Line- It is an element of art that contours, outlines, or defines a shape.
2. Shape- happens when a line crosses itself or intersects with other lines to create an enclosed space.
3. Texture- refers to the quality of a surface appearance such as rough and smooth
4. Space- is the result of enclosed lines to form a boundary.
a. Positive space- is the filled space
b. Negative space- is the empty space
5. Value- refers to the degree of lightness and darkness of a hue.
6. Form- has three dimensions (length, width, and depth)
7. Direction- it creates the illusion that there is movement within the design.
 DIFFERENT BODY SILHOUETTE

1.Rectangular Shape
-undefined waist
-similar bust, waist and hip measurement
2. Hour-glass Shape
-figure is curvy
-hips and shoulders about the same width
-waist is well defined about 9 inches smaller
than bust or hips.
3. Triangle Shape/Pear-shaped
-wider hips and thighs than shoulder and bust, wider hips.
4. Inverted Triangle Shape
-full bust, shoulder, upper back.
-Narrow hips

COLOR THEORY

1. PRIMARY COLORS – the sources of all colors – RED, BLUE and YELLOW.
2. SECONDARY COLORS – are produced when mixing two equal amount of primary colors. – ORANGE, GREEN and VIOLET.
3. INTERMEDIATE COLORS – are produced by mixing two equal amount of primary and secondary colors.
Yellow + green = Yellow-green Red + violet = Red-violet Blue + violet = Blue-violet
Blue + green = Blue-green Red + orange = Red-orange Blue + orange = Blue-orange
4. PURE COLORS – are the primary, secondary and intermediate colors because they have no white, black and gray in them.
Pure colors are also called ―normal, true and basic colors.
5.TINTS – when pure colors are mixed with white, they are made lighter. Example, when white is added to red you have pink.
6.SHADES – when pure colors are mixed with black, they are made darker. Example, when black is added to red you have
maroon, a shade of red.
7.GRAYED COLORS – most colors we used in clothes are grayed colors rather than bright, pure colors you see on the color
wheel. Grayed colors are also referred to as ―soft colors or ―dull colors.
8.NEUTRALS – are white, black and gray.
9.WARM COLORS are red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, and orange. Red is the warmest color.
10.COOL COLORS are green, blue-green, blue, blue-violet, violet. Blue is the coolest color.

Qualities of Color

HUE – is the family group name of a color. It is the name of a color.

VALUE – refers to the lightness or the tint or the darkness of the shade.
INTENSITY – means the brightness or dullness of a color.

COLOR SCHEMES
1. One-color harmony (monochromatic color) – the easiest color scheme to follow is
one that uses the same color in different values and intensity. Example, dark blue
suit with very dark blue accessories and a light blue blouse.

2. Adjacent color harmony (analogous) – colors which are near with each
other on the color wheel, neighbor color harmony.
Example: yellow-orange, orange, and yellow green

3. Complementary Color Harmony – these are colors that are opposite

in the color wheel.

a. Complementary colors – directly opposite in the color wheel.

Example: red and green, blue and orange, yellow and violet.
 b. Split complementary colors – a variation of the complementary
color scheme. In addition to the base color, it uses the two colors
adjacent to its complement.

c. Triad - uses colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel.

LEARNING OUTCOME 2Produce simple project

BASIC HAND STITCHES

LESSON 4 Perform Basic Maintenance

LO 1. Operate machine and assess its performance

THREADING THE MACHINE

A. ORDER OF THREADING IN THE UPPER PART

1. Spool Pin
2. Upper thread guide
3. Between metal disc of tension
4. Thread take up lever
5. Lower thread guide
6. Needle

CLASSIFICATIONS OF SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES

1. Minor sewing machine trouble - This refers to problems that arise involving incorrectly attached accessories or supplies ,
unadjusted tensions , or that requires a little dusting or oiling.
2. Major sewing machine trouble - This involves replacing or removing damage spare parts that made the sewing machine not
totally functioning.
STANDARDS FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATIONS

Here are some pointers that you have to follow in the manipulation of your sewing machine:
1. Start with the right tools and supplies. Have your needle, thread, screw driver, pins and scissors ready for use. With tools at
hand, you can start working continuously on your machine.
2. Always maintain good working posture. Sit on your back slightly leaning forward. It can prevent body pains after working on
your machine.
3. Thread the sewing machine correctly. You can follow the guide book if you have. This will save your time to get a correct
threading. Refer to someone to check if you have threaded it properly.
4. Be sure that the needle is properly set according to the directions for specific models. A properly attached needle will make
your work without any trouble.
5. Set the stitch regulator according to project specifications and test the stitches for possible adjustments.
6. Check tension dials and adjust according to project requirement of the stitches. A correct adjustment on the tension dials
will make perfectly sewn garment.
7. Turn power off (for motorized/electric machines) when the sewing machine is not in use. This will save electricity and avoid
possible minor accidents.
8.Keep sewing tools. Dust the sewing machine then put a little amount of machine oil in slots. This will make the sewing machine
available for the next user.

CHARACTERISTICS OF GOOD STITCHES

1. The length of stitch is proportioned to the texture of the fabric.

2. The stitches are the same in length.
3. The stitches appear the same on both right and wrong sides of the fabric.
4. The stitching follows the intended line smoothly and accurately.
5. There are no skipped or broken gaps in stitching. 6. When retraced, it appears as one line of stitching. 7. The stitching
has no tangles.

LEARNING OUTCOME 2 Clean and lubricate machine

Care of Sewing Machine

Cleaning and oiling your sewing machine is basic maintenance that can help the machine to last longer and perform more
smoothly. If you sew regularly, bits of lint, thread, dust and even fabric can get stuck in your machine. These make work harder
and can even jam your sewing machine.
Clean your machine at least once a week to fix these problems and use sewing machine oil to help the moving parts function
smoothly. You should clean and oil your machine after finishing any large project as well as any time you suspect it is having a
problem.

LESSON. Practice Occupational Safety and Health

LO 1. Identify and evaluate hazards and risks

HAZARD is any source of potential damage, harm or adverse health effects on something or someone under certain conditions
at work.

TYPES OF HAZARD
1. Chemical - is any substance that can cause harm, primarily to people.
2. Electrical - can be defined as a dangerous condition where a worker could make electrical contact with energized
equipment or a conductor, and from which the person may sustain an injury from shock; and/or, there is potential for
the worker to receive an arc flash burn, thermal burn, or blast injury.
3. Ergonomic - impact employers and workers and their families. Poor workplace design, awkward body mechanics or
postures, repetitive movements, and other ergonomic hazards induce or contribute to a staggering number of
cumulative trauma disorders.
4. Psychological - This type of hazard relates to mental health and behavioural disorders.
5. Radiation - Radiation Hazard (RADHAZ) describes the hazards of electromagnetic radiation to fuels, electronic hardware,
ordinance, and personnel.
6. Biological - biohazard, is anything coming from living organisms (i.e. pollen, fungi, animals, insects, bacteria and viruses)
that could be a threat to someone's health.
7. Physical - Physical hazards are those substances which threaten your physical safety. The most common types of physical
hazards are:
* Fire * Explosion * Chemical Reactivity

RISK is the chance or probability that a person will be harmed or experience an adverse health effect if exposed to a hazard. It
may also apply to situations with property or equipment loss.
For example: The risk of developing cancer from smoking cigarettes could be expressed as "cigarette smokers are 12 times (for
example) more likely to die of lung cancer than non-smokers".

LEARNING OUTCOME 2 Control Hazards and Risks

Hazards and risks in the textiles sector

The textiles sector contains many hazards and risks to workers, ranging from exposure to noise and dangerous substances, to
manual handling and working with dangerous machinery.

Exposure to chemical agents

Many different groups of chemical substances are used in the textiles sector, including dyes, solvents, optical brighteners,
crease-resistance agents, flame retardants, heavy metals, pesticides, and antimicrobial agents.

Exposure to dusts and fibres

The exposure of workers to dusts from material such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, hemp, sisal, and jute can occur during weaving,
spinning, cutting, ginning, and packaging. Exposure to fibres and yarns may cause nasal or bladder cancer.

Exposure to biological agents

Exposure to biological agents can result in allergies and respiratory disorders.

Exposure to physical agents

Workers may be exposed to noise and vibrations, for example during weaving, spinning, sewing, twisting, and cutting. Exposure
to loud noise can result in permanent hearing damage such as noise-induced hearing loss
Hazard Management

Spot the hazard

Assess the hazard
Fix the hazard
Evaluate the result

ENTREPRENEURSHIP - is the process of innovation and new venture creation.

ENTREPRENEURS - are people who have the ability to see and evaluate business opportunities.

Personal Entrepreneurial competencies

- refers to the important characteristics that an entrepreneur must possessed.

Three Cluster of PECs:

1. Achievement Cluster
2. Planning Cluster
3. Power Cluster

*Achievement Cluster
The word achievement refers to becoming successful in attaining a desired goal or aim.
1.Opportunity seeking -Entrepreneur seeks and acts on new business opportunities.
2. Persistence - Entrepreneur takes repeated or different actions to overcome obstacles and makes a personal sacrifice.
3. Commitment to the work contract - Entrepreneur accepts full responsibility for problems in completing a job.
4. Risk taking - Entrepreneur takes risks after advantages and disadvantages are carefully weighed.
5. Demand for efficiency and quality - Entrepreneur acts to do things that meet or even exceed existing standards of
excellence and also improves on past performances.

*Planning Cluster
Planning refers to the establishment of objectives, policies and procedures geared towards the full realization of end goals.
1.Goal setting - The entrepreneur must establish SMART short and long term objectives.
2. Information seeking - The entrepreneur seeks important data on clients and even-would be competitors, consult expert for
business or technical advice.
3. Systematic Planning and Monitoring - The entrepreneur develops and applies logical step-by-step plans and monitor
progress.

*Power Cluster
Power defined as the possession of control, authority or influence over others.
1.Persuasion and Networking - The entrepreneur applies various strategies and techniques to influence, persuade or
convince others.
2. Self-confidence - The entrepreneur has a strong self-belief in himself/herself and his/her own abilities and skills.
 SWOT ANALYSIS
The table below will help you differentiate among these four features.