HOW TO GROW YOUR OWN

CURRY LEAF TREE

March 6, 2021 by Kristine Lofgren

Murraya koenigii
Have you ever dug into a bowlful of yellow dal from your favorite
restaurant and marveled at that subtle, citrusy flavor that maybe
you couldn’t quite place?

Want to make that herbaceous deliciousness a part of your personal

culinary repertoire? Then you should consider growing your own
curry leaf tree at home.

You can use the leaves in your cooking, and as an added bonus, this
plant is also stunning as an ornamental.
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It has an elegant bush-like growth pattern that stands out in the

garden, and when you brush the leaves, they release their pungent,
spicy aroma.

The curry leaf tree is a tropical plant that’s native to India and Sri
Lanka. It has pointed, oblong leaves that grow in pairs.

And during the summer, it features tubular white flowers that are
incredibly fragrant, with a sweet, citrus-like scent.

For those gardeners who don’t live in tropical areas, this is one plant
that is happy to grow in a container indoors – and outdoors at
certain times of the year.

I’ve grown it indoors for years as a decorative plant that

occasionally contributes to my meals.

Ready to join the club of curry leaf plant aficionados? Then read on!

What You’ll Learn

 What Is the Curry Leaf Tree?
 Propagation
 How to Grow
 Growing Tips
 Varieties and Cultivars to Select
 Managing Pests and Disease
 Harvesting
 Preserving
 Recipes and Cooking Ideas
 Medicinal Uses
 Quick Reference Growing Guide
What Is the Curry Leaf Tree?
Before we dive in, let’s clarify a few things.

Curry leaf, Murraya koenigii, is a different species from what is

commonly referred to as the ornamental curry plant, Helichrysum
italicum, and neither of these is used in making the spice blend
known as curry powder, a British invention that contains no “curry”
whatsoever.
H. italicum is a member of the daisy family that looks a bit like
lavender. The leaves have an intense scent, and it has small yellow
flowers that look attractive in the garden, but it’s not edible.
The curry leaf plant – also called curry leaf tree, sweet neem, kadi
patta, or curry tree – hails from India and is a member of the citrus
or rue family, Rutaceae.

It can grow up to 20 feet tall at maturity in its native tropics, though

it’s usually smaller in cultivation. There are multiple varieties
available, and three different sizes: regular, dwarf, and miniature.
All varieties are evergreen.

In the United States, it will thrive outdoors in USDA Hardiness

Zones 8-12. Dwarf and miniature plants can be grown indoors, if
your climate isn’t sweet neem-friendly.
It has a graceful, open growth pattern that makes it attractive in an
ornamental garden. The plant features showy white flowers in early
summer, and dark, sweet, shiny fruits that form in July and August.

The seeds are poisonous, but the berries are used in Yunani,
Ayurvedic, and homeopathic medicine.

The leaves of M. koenigii are commonly used in Filipino, Indian,

Pakistani, Mexican, Sri Lankan, Cambodian, Malaysian, and Thai
cooking. It has long been valued in its native region not only for its
citrus-like flavor, but also for its medicinal value.
These days, it’s cultivated commercially in Sri Lanka and other
parts of southeast Asia, Australia, and the Pacific Islands.
Propagation
You might be able to find plants at your local nursery or Asian
market. You can also buy seeds and plants online.

M. koenigii is typically propagated by rooting cuttings, but you can

also try growing it from seed if you’re patient.
From Seed
You can propagate curry leaf trees by planting seed, but keep in
mind that this isn’t a quick process. It can take two years before
your plant becomes established enough for you to start harvesting
the leaves regularly.
Purchase fresh dried seeds for the best chance of germination.
Older seeds don’t germinate well.

Remove the hard outer shells by rubbing the seeds, which are
actually the pits of the berries, between your hands. If that doesn’t
work, put the seeds in a plastic bag and roll a rolling pin over them.

If you’re using fresh berries, soak them for 24 hours to extract the
seed inside. After soaking, you can gently rub off the flesh and pulp
that surrounds the seed.

To start seeds indoors, sow them a third of an inch deep in potting

soil and keep it moist. You can cover the container with plastic wrap
with holes poked in it to help retain moisture, effectively creating a
mini greenhouse.
Seeds need a soil temperature of at least 68°F to germinate, so use
a heat mat if necessary.

The germination rate of these seeds is pretty low, so try planting

several seeds per tray cell to improve your chances of producing a
healthy plant.

After the seedlings emerge, thin them out to one seedling per cell
as needed.

Outdoors, sow directly into the ground when daytime temperatures

are consistently above 65°F.

Standard sized plants should be planted four to five feet apart or

the same distance away from any structures. Keep the soil moist
until the seedlings emerge, in about two to three weeks.

When your curry leaf plant is about six months old, it’s time to start
pruning.

When a healthy seedling has formed six or more branches with

several developed leaves on each, pinch back or prune two of the
branches to encourage bushier growth.

The goal is to encourage the plant to become bushy with lots of

offshoots rather than spindly and tall.

From Cuttings
In the spring, cut a three to six-inch piece of stem that has at least
three sets of leaves from a mature, healthy plant.
Clip the branch as close as possible to the main stem and then cut
the base at a 45-degree angle. Remove the lowest set of leaves and
dip the bottom in rooting hormone powder.

Fill a container with soilless potting mixture. I like to use a four- or

six-inch biodegradable pot because they’re easy to transplant, but
any container that size will work.

Biodegradable CowPots
If you need to purchase containers, consider buying some
CowPots from Arbico Organics. They’re biodegradable and come
from a renewable resource (cow poop).
Poke a hole in the potting mixture and insert the cut end of the
stem. Bury it an inch deep. Place the container in an area with at
least six hours of indirect sunlight per day.

Keep the potting mixture moist and mist the cuttings every day until
the roots have become established.
You’ll know it’s ready to transplant when you can tug the plant
gently and it resists, typically after about three weeks.

At that point, you can harden it off outside as long as nighttime

temperatures are above 40°F.

If you have warm enough temperatures, and you plan to move your
curry leaf tree outside, first harden off your rooted cutting by
gradually introducing the plant to outdoor sunlight and wind.

On the first day, give the plant an hour of sun. The next day,
increase the time spent outdoors to two hours. On the third day,
give it three hours, and so on.

After a week, it’s ready to go in its permanent home, whether that’s

in the ground or in a container outside.

Standard plants reach six to 15 feet tall at maturity with a four to

eight-foot spread. Space them four to five feet apart and the same
distance away from any other plants or structures.

If you’re keeping your plant indoors, select an area that gets at least
five hours of direct sunlight a day. But don’t just put it in that spot
right away.

Gradually introduce it to the direct light over a period of about a

week, providing an hour of direct light on the first day, two hours
on the second day, and so on, to acclimate your cutting to these
bright conditions.

How to Grow
Curry trees can grow in a full sun to part shade location. If you are
growing yours in a container in a cooler region, give it full sun. This
plant should never be exposed to temperatures below 40°F.
Young plants that are under a year old shouldn’t be exposed to full
sun in extremely warm regions. If temperatures climb to 100°F,
keep them in a partially shady spot.

Plants need loose, rich, well-draining soil. The earth should be

slightly acidic, with a pH of 5.6-6.0. Curry leaf dislikes wet feet.

If your soil has poor drainage, work in some sand to improve it.
Other than that, this plant isn’t too fussy.

I like to work well-rotted manure or compost into the earth when

planting to give the bush a good start in its preferred conditions,
since I have poor soil.
Test your soil before planting to determine whether you need to
add any amendments, and then test again during the middle of the
growing season.
The goal is to give the plants plenty of nutrients, particularly
nitrogen to encourage leafy growth.

Once or twice a year in the spring and/or fall, add two tablespoons
of 20 percent iron sulfate to the soil, particularly if you notice the
leaves turning yellow with dark green veins. Curry leaf is prone to
iron deficiency.
During the summer months, you may fertilize established plants
that need a boost of nutrients every four to six weeks with liquid
fish fertilizer.

Use three tablespoons per gallon of water and apply it to the roots.

Water regularly, at least once a week, but be careful not to

overwater. The surface of the soil should just barely dry out in
between watering.

Curry leaf plants can tolerate semi-drought conditions once

established, and it is more likely to survive drier conditions than
overly wet ones.

If you live in a windy area, you may want to stake your plant to keep
it from bending or breaking in strong gusts of wind. This is
recommended for any plant that is taller than about two feet.

Select a stake that is at least two-thirds as tall as the bush will be at

its mature height, and gently insert it six inches away from the stem
of the plant.

If you encounter resistance, adjust the stake position and try again,
to avoid damaging the larger roots. At least one-third of the stake
should be inserted into the ground for stability.

Loosely tie to the stake with twine in several places, or you can use
hook and loop tape designed for staking.

If the weather gets cool in your area, your plant’s leaves may turn
yellow and fall off. As long as temperatures haven’t dropped below
40°F, this doesn’t mean that it’s dying – just that it’s going dormant.
Anything in the high 50s and below can send the plant into
dormancy.

If this happens, leaves will reemerge in the spring when

temperatures increase. Reduce irrigation so the soil dries out to one
inch deep in between waterings. This will help to prevent root rot.

You can also prevent leaf drop by increasing the temperature if the
plant is growing indoors.

Pruning isn’t necessary for plant health, but it can help to increase
your harvest. Prune in the spring if you want to control the plant’s
size and encourage bushier growth.

If you plan to harvest the leaves, pinch off the buds that form on the
plant. These commonly form in the spring, but the plant flowers
sporadically during the spring, summer, and fall, so keep an eye out.

These will open into beautiful, fragrant flowers, but the blossoms
come at the expense of leaf growth.

Since I don’t use a ton of leaves in my cooking, I let my plant flower.

The blossoms are so pretty and they smell so good, I don’t want to
go without.

Curry leaf plants are self-fertile. If you let the flowers grow, the fruits
will mature during July and August on plants grown outdoors in
Zones 9-12.

I like to snip off the flowers before they mature into fruits with a
sharp pair of scissors, but you can allow them to form if you want to
use them medicinally or to save seeds for planting.

Just keep in mind that when a plant starts developing flowers and
fruits, it generally stops putting its energy into growing leaves.
The flowers have a strong, sweet scent, and birds like to eat the
berries – and spread the seeds.

As I mentioned earlier, you can absolutely grow curry leaf trees in a

container. The most important thing to keep in mind is that you’ll
need to repot in a larger container as the plant grows.

Within ten years, a full-sized standard tree should be potted in a 30-

gallon container. If you grow the miniature or dwarf variety, these
can be potted in three-gallon or five-gallon containers respectively
when fully mature.
If you plan to move your plant indoors in the winter and out again
after all risk of frost has passed each year, you should select a
miniature or dwarf variety.

A 30-gallon container is going to be way too heavy to move

around!

Fertilize container-grown plants with container-specific fertilizer

every six weeks during the spring, summer, and fall.

If you grow your curry leaf plant indoors during periods of cold
weather and move it outside when it’s warm, be sure to gradually
harden it off by reexposing it to the sun in the spring as you would
a new seedling.

Growing Tips
 Plant in well-draining soil
 Provide full sun for mature plants, or shade during the
heat of the day in hot regions
 Fertilize as needed, throughout the year
 Water moderately, and avoid oversaturating the soil
Varieties and Cultivars to Select
There are three sizes of curry leaf trees commonly available, referred
to botanically as “morphotypes,” with several different cultivars of
the standard size.
Large, or standard, curry trees are the ones that are most commonly
cultivated for commercial production. If you’re buying curry leaves
at the store, they most likely came from a standard plant.

Large trees grow fast and have flavorful leaves. They grow best in
Zones 9-12, in gardens where they can be grown outdoors year-
round.

There are a few cultivars of the standard size that you can find,
though most plants that are available from nurseries in the United
States are sold under the generic species name M. koenigii.
The dwarf variety has longer leaves that are slightly lighter in
color than those of the full-size plant. These grow to be about 12 to
24 inches tall and 12 inches wide at maturity.
These may spread via suckers and in the right conditions they can
even become invasive, so container planting or regular pruning of
the suckers may be necessary. The dwarf variety may be grown
outdoors year-round in Zones 8-11.

Gamthi (miniature) varieties grow the slowest and have thick, highly
fragrant leaves. If you want a plant to grow in a container indoors
that you can also harvest leaves from to use as an herb in your
cooking, I’d recommend this one.

This type grows to be about six to eight inches tall at maturity, and
the leaves are even more flavorful than those of the larger types.

Like the dwarf type, gamthi grows best in Zones 8-11, or it may be
grown indoors in cooler regions for part or all of the year.

Managing Pests and Disease

I hate battling pests and disease. My philosophy is that if I have to
fight to keep a plant alive, it wasn’t meant to grow in my garden.

That’s another reason why I’m a fan of curry leaf. It is resistant to

most pests and diseases that can take down other plants.

Still, there are a few things to watch out for.

Pests
Aphids are particularly fond of young plants. You’ll notice groupings
of tiny and wingless yellow, brown, pink, black, gray, or green
insects on the foliage.

They will suck the juices out of your plant, and they can spread
disease. Their damage can cause leaves to curl and turn yellow, and
they leave behind a sticky substance called honeydew that can lead
to sooty mold.
The first line of attack is to spray plants with a blast of cold water.
Sometimes knocking them loose so they will move onto other
plants is all that is needed. If that doesn’t work, try dusting your
plant with flour.

If an infestation gets really bad, try a weekly application of neem oil

until the pests are gone.

Plants can also be attacked by spider mites. These tiny arachnids are
hard to see, but you’ll probably notice the webbing that they leave
behind.

They feed on plants by piercing them and sucking out their

moisture, and they can cause yellowing or necrotic spots.

On top of that, they can also transmit disease. And they prefer hot
weather – just like the curry leaf plant.

You can deal with this pest by spraying plants with a blast of cold
water to dislodge them. Do this daily for a week.

If that doesn’t work, try introducing beneficial insects like

lacewings and ladybugs into your garden.
If that doesn’t work, it’s time to break out the big guns. Use
insecticidal soap or neem oil to control them.

Three times a week for two weeks, spray your plants with soap or
oil, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Psyllids, like mites and aphids, also suck the sap out of plants. Left
to feast long enough, the leaves on your curry leaf plant will
eventually turn yellow and die.
This bug is about a tenth of an inch long with a reddish-brown
color. It can jump long distances and fly. Nymphs look similar to
scale, another common plant pest.

Beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings can help to control

populations, as will the same regular applications of neem oil as
described above.

You can also dust diatomaceous earth on and around your plants.

BotaniGard ES
If none of that works, the biological insecticide BotaniGard
ES, available via Amazon, is highly effective against aphids, mites,
and psyllids.
This insecticide contains the beneficial fungus Beauveria bassiana to
control a variety of soft-bodied insects.
Disease
Leaf spot is a catch-all name for a disease caused by bacteria and
fungi that causes spotting on your plant’s leaves. This disease can
weaken your curry leaf tree and, over time, cause enough stress that
your plant succumbs and dies.

As the name implies, it presents as small brown or black spots on

leaves.

To control it, stop fertilizing unless a soil test indicates a specific

nutrient deficiency. Make sure your plant gets the right amount of
water and apply a three to four-inch layer of grass, leaf, or
newspaper mulch around the tree, leaving two inches between the
mulch and trunk.

Also, don’t overcrowd your plants, and keep them pruned to

promote air circulation.

If none of that helps and your plants have a leaf spot infection for
several years in a row, apply a broad-spectrum fungicide in the
spring.

Also keep an eye out for citrus greening. This disease is caused by
the bacteria Candidatus Liberibacter asiaticus and it presents a
serious threat to citrus plants in the US, UK, Asia, Africa, and Brazil.
It is spread by psyllids, which is why it is extra important to keep
bugs under control.

In some areas, it has become such a concern that some

governments are restricting the transport of citruses and other
plants in the Rutaceae family. Yep, that includes curry leaf plants.
In the UK, the import of fresh curry leaves and plants from outside
of the EU is banned. In the US, import and inter and intra-state
movement of the plant and fresh leaves is restricted.

To learn more about this disease, check out our guide to citrus
greening.
Harvesting
Regardless of size, the plant should be fully productive by year five.
During years one through four, the harvest will begin to increase
gradually each year.
Standard varieties should be about six feet tall in two years, and you
can begin harvesting regularly at that point.

Dwarf and miniature (gamthi) types take a bit longer to reach a

harvestable size of about half of their mature height, with the
miniature plants taking up to five years.

Harvesting can be done in one of two ways:

You can pluck leaves as you need them. Or you may take a larger
harvest two or three times a year.

The second method means cutting off branches every two months
during the growing season.

Use scissors or pruners to cut back the branches. Leave a few

inches at the base of each branch. Never take more than half of the
leaves at a time.
Don’t be shy about harvesting. In fact, it promotes bushier growth
that will allow you to harvest leaves regularly in the future.

As long as you don’t take more than half of the leaves at a time,
new growth will continue to pop up and replace what you’ve
removed.

Preserving
You can store fresh leaves in the refrigerator for two weeks in a
sealed bag. Wait to wash them until just before using.

You can also freeze the leaves, though they’ll lose their color and a
little flavor.
Remove the stems, and wash and dry the leaves. Toss leaves in
vegetable oil until they’re lightly coated.

I use about a tablespoon per cup of leaves. Place the leaves in

resealable plastic bags, press out the air, and freeze for up to six
months.

If you have a particularly large harvest, you can also dry the leaves.
These will have a milder flavor than when they are fresh.

Place them in a single layer on a screen and put the leaves in a

protected area with good air circulation until they are crisp and dry.
You can also place the leaves in a food dehydrator. They will keep in
a cool, dark place in a sealed container for up to a year.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Curry tree leaves taste a bit citrusy, with a bright, crisp flavor that’s
sort of like a lemon and an orange combined with a bit of smoky
spice.

One of the easiest ways to use the leaves is to put them in a dish
whole to add some zing. I like to add leaves to tortilla soup for a
citrusy hint of flavor.

They’re also delicious simply fried up in hot vegetable oil and a little
salt, Sri Lankan style, as I learned from a friend. You can dip the
leaves in aioli or toss them onto curries as a garnish.

Try finely chopping the leaves and adding them to bread dough.
Curry leaf can be used to mix into the dough when baking naan or
whole wheat bread.

If you’re having a fresh summer salad, drop a few raw leaves in with
the lettuce.
Since they’re citrusy, they are perfect for seasoning seafood dishes
like etouffee, baked fish, or shrimp curry.

You can also take a page out of my recipe book and make a “curry
leaf pesto” by blending one cup of olive oil with two cups of fresh
curry leaves, a small sweet onion, three red chilis (less if you are
spice-averse), one clove of garlic, and salt and pepper to taste.
It’s delicious mixed into sour cream as a dip, tossed with pasta, or
used as a pizza topping or sandwich spread.

Medicinal Uses
Curry tree leaves have been used in Ayurvedic medicine for
millennia. It has been used in this medical tradition to treat
stomach issues, diarrhea, and bruising.
The leaves contain antioxidants, beta carotene, and vitamins C, A, B,
and E. They also have iron, fiber, calcium, phosphorus, and amino
acids. Studies indicate they have antimicrobial and anti-oxidative
properties.
A Note of Caution:
While the berries are edible and have also been used in Ayurveda
and Unani systems of medicine, the seeds of the plant are
poisonous to mammals and humans – so don’t eat them!
There have been some promising studies on animals indicating
some potential medicinal benefits of curry leaves, but human trials
are needed to establish these benefits.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial Maintenance: Low

Native to: India, Sri Lanka Tolerance: Drought

Hardiness (USDA 8-12 Soil Type: Organically rich,

Zone):

Season: Year round Soil pH: 5.6-6.0

Exposure: Full sun Soil Drainage: Well-draining

Time to Maturity: 2-5 years for harvest Companion Garlic, mint, onio
Planting: zinnias

Spacing: 4-5 feet Avoid Planting Citrus trees, mus

With:

Planting Depth: 1/3 inch (seeds), depth of rootball Order: Sapindales

(transplants)

Height: Up to 20 feet, depending on variety Family: Rutaceae

Spread: 4-8 feet, depending on variety Genus: Murraya

Water Needs: Moderate Species: Koenigii

Common Pests: Aphids, psyllids, spider mites Common Diseases: Leaf spot

A Lot of Impact for Little Effort

Curry plant makes a beautiful houseplant or garden specimen, in
addition to a tasty addition to your cooking – and who doesn’t love
a plant that can do double duty?

Outdoors, the glossy leaves and luscious flowers make a charming

addition to the herb or ornamental garden.

And then there’s the flavor of the leaves. Until you’ve popped a
fresh leaf in your mouth to experience the crispy green burst of
citrus, you don’t know what you’re missing.

By growing curry leaves at home, you can enjoy all this plant has to
offer year-round.

Have you tried growing curry leaf plants? Share your experiences in
the comments below!