SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF

CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY

Module Title
Knitwear Design-Cut & Sew Knitwear

Module Code:
KNT-2101
4th
Semester

Module Leader: S.M.Sadrul Amin

Team members: Md.Mizanur Rahman

Updated on 01/08/2020
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 MODULE CONTINUOUS ASSESSMENT TIMETABLE
Course : B.A (Hon’s) in Fashion Design & Technology
Year & Semester : 3 rd Semester
Module Title : Knitwear Designing- Cut & Sew
Module Code : KNT -2101
Assessment Mode : Class test, Assignment & Written Exam.

Assessmen
t MID Final
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Description Term Exam
Weeks

Class test

5% 5%
40%
20% Written
Written Exam
Exam

Assignment
10% 10%

NB: 5% mark is in Class attendance in Midterm and 5% is in Final Examination

Module Leader: S.M.Sadrul Amin

Team member: Md.Mizanur Rahman

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 Module Specification

Programme : B. A. (Honors) in Fashion Design & Technology.

Module Title : Knitwear Design –Cut & Sew
Module Code : KNT 2101
rd
Year of Study: 2nd (3 Semester)
Contact Hours: 1.5 hrs/ week
Total Hours : 30 Hrs (Lecture: 27 Hrs + Self Study: 3 Hrs)
Credits :2
Prerequisite : Nil
Assessment Method: Class Test, Assignment & Exam.

Aims:
This module is intended to develop students’ knowledge and skills in the creation of Cut &
Sew knitwear products in order to underpin all aspects of Textile Technology & Clothing
study.

Objectives:
By the end of the module, students will be able to
 Analyze the Knitting methods in different product
 Understand different knitted fabric design & knitwear design
 Understand the properties of knitted fabrics
 Understand the machine technology & production technology of different knitting
machines
 Able to make the production plan & machine layout
 Analyze quality assurance system in knitting
 Able to do Consumption, Costing & Pricing of different kind of Knitwear

Syllabus Outline and Teaching Plan:

1. Introduction of Cut & Sew knitwear.

2. Knitting terminology
3. Production flow chart of Cut & Sew Knitwear
4. Assignment discussion & GSM Calculation
5. Fabric Classifications & Properties
6. Needle Calculation for S/J & Double jersey M/C
7. Machine Diameter vs. fabric diameter
8. Taking a class test & Knitwear analysis
9+10. Knitwear consumption calculation
11. Fabrics Faults, Causes & their Remedies
12. Review of Previous Classes & Assignment Submission

Learning outcomes:
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After completing this module the students will be able to:
 Understand the knitting method.
 Understand the knit fabric structure.
 Analyze the causes of various faults and remedies of knit fabric.

Text Book
Knitting Technology-David J Spencer

Assessment formats
Mid term Examination: 40
Attendance : 05
Class test : 05
Assignment : 10
Mid term exam: 20
Final Examination: 60
Attendance: 05
Class test: 05
Assignment: 10
Final exam: 40

Reference books
 Knitting technology...David J.Spancer
 Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser – Engr. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal
 Fabric Manufacturing Technology II – Engr. Md. Mamutazur Rahaman

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 Lesson Plan

Week Lecture Topic

1 1 Introduction of Cut & Sew knitwear,
-Differences between Cut and Sew and Fully Fashioned Knitwear
-Differences between Knit fabric and Woven fabric

2 2 Knitting terminology, classification of Weft & Warp knitting

3 3 Production flow chart of
Cut & Sew Knitwear
4 4 Assignment discussion & GSM Calculation.
5 5 Fabric Classifications Properties of plain, rib and Interlock
fabrics, basic loop structures
6 6 Needle Calculation for S/J & Double jersey M/C

Midterm Examination
Machine Diameter vs. fabric diameter, criteria for yarn
7 7 selection, Effect of yarn count on GSM
8 8 Taking a class test & Knitwear analysis
9+10 9+10 Knitwear consumption calculation for T-shirts,Polo-shirts

11 11 Faults, Causes & their Remedies in Knitted fabric

12 12 Review of Previous Classes & Assignment Submission

5
 Week : 01
Lecture : 01

Early origins of knitting

CUT AND SEW KNITWEAR

Cut = Cutting
Sew = Sewing
Knitwear = Knit Garments

Knitting is a process of fabrics manufacturing by converting yarn into loop form these
loop interlock together which form a structure, it’s called Knitting or Knitted structure
or Knit fabrics structure.

Weaving is a process of fabrics manufacturing by interlacement of two sets of yarn

together which form a structure, it’s called weaving or woven structure or woven
fabrics structure.

The oldest artifact with a knitted appearance is a type of sock. It is believed that socks and
stockings were the first pieces produced using techniques similar to knitting. These socks
were worked in a technique of making fabric by creating multiple knots or loops with a single
needle and thread. Many of these existing clothing items employed making techniques; some
of them look very similar to true knitting. For example, 3rd-5th century CE Romano-
Egyptian toe-socks. Several pieces, done in now obscure techniques, have been mistaken for
knitting or crocheting.

Most histories of knitting place its origin somewhere in the Middle East, from where it spread
to Europe by Mediterranean trade routes, and then to the Americas with European
colonization. The earliest known examples of knitting have been found in Egypt and cover a
range of items, including complex colorful wool fragments and indigo blue and white cotton
stockings, which have been dated between the 11th and 14th centuries CE.

History of knitwear

Coco Chanel's 1916 use of jersey in her hugely influential suits was a turning point for
knitwear, which became associated with the liberated woman. Shortly afterwards, Jean
Patou's cubist-inspired, color-blocked knits were the sportswear of choice.

In the 1940s came the iconic wearing of body-skimming sweaters by sex symbols like Lana
Turner and Jane Russell, though the 1950s were dominated by conservative popcorn knits.
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The swinging 1960s were famously manifested in Missoni's colorful zigzag knitwear. This
era also saw the rise both of Sonia Rykiel, dubbed the "Queen of Knitwear" for her vibrant
striped sweaters and her clingy dresses, and of Kennedy-inspired preppy sweaters.

In the 1980s, knitwear emerged from the realm of sportswear to dominate high fashion;
notable designs included Romeo Gigli's "haute-bohemian cocoon coats" and Ralph Lauren's
floor-length cashmere turtlenecks.

Contemporary knitwear designers include Diane von Furstenberg and James Perse

Historical Background of knitting technology:

1589: William Lee, inventor of the mechanical stitch formation tools.

1758: Jedeish strutt, inventor of double knit technique,

1798: Monsier Decroix, Circular knitting frame.

1805: Josheph Marie Jacquard, Jacquard mechanism.

1847: Mathew Townsend, inventor of latch needle.

1850: Circular knitting machine.

1852: Needle development.

1878: Circular knitting machine plain rib.

1910: Interlock fabric.

1918: Double headed or hook latch needle.

1920: Pattern wheel, punch tape etc.

Differences between Cut and Sew and Fully Fashioned Knitwear:

Properties Cut and Sew Fully Fashion

1) Machine Made by circular knitting machine. Made by flatbed knitting machine.
Pattern is essential to manufacture Pattern is not essential to
a garment. manufacture a garment. It is
2) Pattern
manufactured by following design
chart.
3) Fabric Long length fabric required to cut Short length fabric is manufactured
length panels according to patterns. according to garments height.
4) Needle Fine gauge machines are used; i.e. Coarse gauge machines are used;
gauge 16, 18, 22, 24, 28 etc i.e. 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, 12 etc
5) Yarn Single yarn is used; i.e. 30/1, 40/1 Plied yarn is used; i.e. 2/32

6) GSM GSM is comparatively low. GSM is comparatively high.

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8
Differences between Knit fabric and Woven fabric:

Properties Knit Fabric Woven Fabric

Only one set of yarns is enough At least two sets of yarn are
1) Set of yarn to produce knit fabric. required to produce woven
fabric.
Knit fabric is produced by the Woven fabric is produced by the
2) Mechanism
mechanism of knitting. mechanism of weaving.
3) Dimensional Dimensional stability is poor. Dimensional stability is high.
stability
Single jersey, Rib and Interlock Plain, Twill and Satin are the
4) Basic structure are the basic structure of knit basic structure of woven fabric.
fabric.
5) Manufacturing Fabric is produced by the Fabric is produced by the
technique technique of interloping. technique of interlacing.
Knit fabric is purchased on the Woven fabric is purchased on
6) Purchasing factor basis of weight; i.e. lbs, kg etc the basis of length; i.e. yards,
meters etc

Woven fabric strength test is done by “Tensile Strength Tester”. Tensile means breaking
strength. Tearing test is not applicable for knit fabric. Knit fabric strength test is done by
“Bursting Strength Test” which is worked by air passing technology.

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 Week : 02
Lecture : 02

Knitting Terminology
To knit means in knitting what should we do? Knitting is done by using some elements of a
machine. To knit a fabric the weft knitting machine is used exclusively as well as warp
knitting.

1. Knitted Loop Structure:

The properties of a knitted structure are largely determined by the interdependence of each
stitch to its neighbors on either side and above and below it. Magic Loop Knitting is arranged
in rows and column termed Knitting courses and Wales respectively.

2. Course:

A course is predominantly horizontal row of needle loops produced by adjacent needles

during the same knitting cycle.

The number of horizontal rows of loop of knitted fabrics is called course. In a weft knitted
fabric a course is composed of yarn from a single supply termed a course length
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3. Wales:

A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops produced by the same
needle knitting at successive knitting cycle. A wale commences as soon as an empty needle
starts to knit.

The number of vertical columns of loop of knitted fabrics is called wale. In warp knitting a
wale can be produced from the same yarn.

4. Stitch Density:

The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of linear measurements of
Courses and Wales; it is the total no. of needle loops in a given area such as a square inch or
three square centimeters.

The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of a linear measurement of
courses & Wales. It is the total number of needle loops in a square area measurement such as
a square inch or square centimeter.

5. Fabric Draw-off:

Fabric are always drawn from the needles on the side remote from their hooks, when two sets
of needles are used, the fabric is drawn away in the gap between the two sets.

6. Needle:
Needle is a hooked metal part which is used for the formation of loops. It is the principle
element of knitting machine. All kinds of knitting needle should have the system to make a
new loop & return back the old loop.

According to construction there are three types of needle:

1. Latch needle.
2. Bearded needle.
3. Compound needle.

7.Loop
8.Loop Length
9.Loop Density
10.Area Density
11.GSM
12.Machine Diameter
13.Yarn Feeder
14.CAM
15.Sinker
16.Feeder Stripe
17.Engineering Stripe
18.Naps
19.Slub
20.Machine Gauge

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Fabric face type:
1. Right-left fabric or single face fabric e.g., Plain fabric.
2. Right-right fabric or double face fabric e.g., rib fabric.
3. Link-link fabric e.g., purls fabric.

Needle pitch:
In a needle bed the distance between two needles centre point is called needle pitch.

Needle pitch = 1/ needle gauge.

Machine or Needle Gauge:

The pitch or distance between one needle to another needle is measured by gauge.

a) In case of weft knitting machine, number of needle per inch is called gauge.

b) In case of Rachel warp knitting machine, number of needle per two inch is called gauge.

Knitted fabrics are mainly two types:

1. Warp Knitting.
2. Weft Knitting.

1. Warp Knitting:

In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different
thread and the number of threads are used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the no
of loops in a horizontal row.

Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of
the fabric, i.e., following adjacent columns ("Wales") of knitting, rather than a single row
("course"). For comparison, knitting across the width of the fabric is called weft knitting.

Since warp knitting requires that the number of separate strands of yarn ("ends") equals the
number of stitches in a row, warp knitting is almost always done by machine, not by hand.
In a warp knitted structure each loop in horizontal direction is made from a different thread &
the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in
horizontal row.
2. Weft Knitting:

In a weft knitted structure, a horizontal row f loop can be made using one thread and the
threads run in the horizontal direction.

o In the more common weft knitting, the Wales are perpendicular to the course of the yarn.
o In weft knitting, the entire fabric may be produced from a single yarn, by adding stitches
to each wale in turn, moving across the fabric.
o In weft knitted structure a horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread & the
thread runs in horizontal direction.
o Weft knitting is done by both hand and machine.

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 Week : 03
Lecture : 03

Production Sequence of Cut & Sew Knitwear

Pattern design& Sketching

Sample making

Production pattern

Pattern grading

Marker making

Spreading

Lay Plan

Fabric cutting

Numbering of cut parts

Bundling of cut parts

Sewing

Inspection

Pressing

Final inspection

Packing

Delivery

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 GARMENTS PRODUCTION SEQUENCE:

Design/sketch:

for production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment

including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of
that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of
computer.

Pattern design:

Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is
called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirt’s and
pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc.

Sample making:

Patterns are used to cut fabric. Then the garments components in fabric form are used to sew
or assemble the garments.

Production pattern:

The pattern of the approved sample garments are used for making production pattern. During
production pattern making, sometime may be necessary modify pattern design if buyer or
appropriate authority suggest any minor modification.

Grading:

Normally for large scale garments production of any style need different sizes to produce
from a set of particular sixe of pattern, the pattern of different sizes are produced by using
grade rule which is called grading.

Marker making:

All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged in the paper in such a way so that
maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastage. Marker is
made for 6,12,18,24 etc pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabric consumption
calculations.

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Spreading:

It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the
marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/ fabric is limited up to maximum six inches
high. But for 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe.

Fabric cutting:

On the fabric lay/ spreads the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned
with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally
straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component bad per e dimensions
of each patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects.

Sorting/ cutting:
After cutting the entire fabrics lay all the garments components in stack form its sorted out as
per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting , it is better to use code number on each
pattern.

Sewing /assembling:

It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing

machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence
of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations.

Inspection:

Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the
garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect any defects if present in the
garments. The defects maybe variation of measurement or sewing defects fabric defects spots
etc.

Pressing and finishing:

After pressing through the inspection table is garment is normally ironed/Pressed to remove
unwanted crease. And to improve the smoothness so that the garment looks nice to the
customer.

Packing:

After pressing or finishing, the garments are poly packed, dozen wise color wise size ration
wise bundle and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information.

Final inspection:

It is the last stages of manufacturing garments on behalf of the garments manufacturing

organization, to detect any defective garments before packing.
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 Week : 04
Lecture : 04

GSM Calculation

GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.GSM is a very important
parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is
calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing
instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is
circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of
fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.

There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric

First formula is as under:

Course per inch X Wales per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex
GSM = -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1000 X 1000

Or,

WPI X CPI X SL(mm)

GSM = ----------------------------- X 0.9155
Count(Ne)

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH (WPI):

We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the
no of total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch.

CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH (CPI):

We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then
we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.

MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH (SL mm):

Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent
needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which
influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

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In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by
hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.

MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:

We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a
considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured
the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn.

The equation we followed is as follow:

N x L x 453.6
Count = ----------------
Wt x 36 x 840
Where,

N = number of yarn in bundle.

L = length of yarn.
Wt = weight of yarn.

Another formula is the following:

Ks x Tex
GSM = ---------------------
Stitch length (mm)

Where,
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is
calculated and estimated as below:

GSM x Stitch length

Ks = -----------------------------
Tex

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 Week : 05
Lecture : 05

Fabric Classifications Properties of plain, rib and Interlock fabrics, basic

loop structures:
Basic Structure of Knitted Fabric are:
1. Plain
2. Rib
3. Purl
4. Interlock

Plain structure:
Plain is produced by the needles knitting as a single set, drawing the loops away from the
technical back and towards the technical face side of the fabric

Features:

1. Used only a single set needle

2. Simplest and most economical production

3.40% potential recovery after stretching

4. Probability of curling yarn

5. Technical face is smooth

6. Technical back is rough

7. If yarn breaks needle loop successively un-mesh down a wale and sinker lop un-mesh up a
wale. This structures breakdown is termed ‘Laddering’
8. Plain can be unroved.
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9. In plain fabric, unroving can be prevented by binding off.

Plain Circular latch needle machine:

1. Single jersey fabric is produced by the plain circular latch needle machine
2. One set of latch needle is used.
3. Latch needle, Cylinder and sinker ring revolve through the stationary knitting cam
System
4. Stationary yarn feeders are situated at regular intervals around the circumference of the
cylinder.

Rib structure:
The structure which requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that the
wale of face stitching and wale of revere stitching knitted on each side of the fabric is called
rib structure.

Features
1. It is normally knitted with two set s of latch needles.
2. Rib has vertical cord appearance.
3. 1X1 rib has the appearance of the technical face of the plain fabric.
4. Relaxed 1X1 rib theoretically twice as thick and ½ the width of an equivalent plain fabric.
5. It is more expensive fabric produce than plain
6. It can be unproved from the end knitted last by the free loop
7. IT is a heavier structure
8. It has no curing tendency
9. Rib structures are elastic, from fitting and retain warmth better than plain structure
10. There are many type of rib structure such as 6X3 rib or derby rib, 1X1 rib or English rib,
2X2 rib or Swiss rib,

Uses:
Rib is suitable particularly for the extremities of articles such as tops of socks, cuff, sleeves or
rib boarders of garments and strolling and strapping for cardigans. It is knitted at the top of
plain knit socks and gloves

Difference between single jersey and double jersey fabric:

Single jersey (Plain) Double Jersey(Rib)
Single jersey is produced by one set of Rib stitch is produced by two sets of
needle. needle.
Face and back side appearance is different. Face and back side appearance are same.
Plain fabric has curling tendency No curling tendency
Plain fabric is unbalanced Rib fabric is balanced
Less elastic property More elastic property
Thickness and weight is half of rib fabric Thickness and weight is twice of rib fabric
Face side contain only face loop and back Face side contain both face and reverse
side contains only reverse loops or all are loop and back side same or one face and
face otherwise all are back loop. one back loop.
It has laddering problem It has no laddering problem
Requires not too finer yarn. Requires finer yarn.
Less expensive More expensive than single
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 Interlock fabric features:
(1) Interlock has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides but its smooth surface cannot be
stretched out to reveal the reverse meshed loop wales because the wales on each side are
exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.
(2) Each interval pattern row requires two feeder courses, each with a separate yarn that knits
separate alternate needles. Thus odd feeders will produce alternate wales of loops on each
side and even feeders will produce the other wales.
(3) It is a balanced, smooth, stable structure that lies flat without curl.
(4) It will not unrove from the end knitted first but it is thicker, heavier, and narrower than rib of
equivalent gauge.
(5) When two different colored yarns are used, horizontal effects are produced. If the same color
is knitted at two adjacent feeders, then also horizontal effects will be produced.

Comparison between Plain Single jersey, Rib & Interlock structure:

Property Plain single jersey Rib Interlock

1. Appearance 1. Face & Back side 1. Face & Back 1. Face & Back
appearances are appearances are same appearances are same
different.
2. Thickness of fabric 2. Less thick 2. Thicker than plain 2. More thicker than
single jersey Rib & Plain single
jersey.
3. Curling tendency 3. More curling 3. Less curling 3. Very less curling
tendency than rib & tendency tendency.
interlock
4. Un roving 4. Both side of the 4. Last end of knitted 4. Last end of knitted
fabric fabric fabric
5. Needle 5. 1 Set needle is 5. 1 set needle for 5. 2 sets needle for
used in cylinder cylinder & 1 set for cylinder & 2 sets for
dial. dial.
6. Cam 6. 1 set cam is used 6. 2 set cam 6. 2 set cam
7. End-uses 7. Stockings, T-shirt, 7. Socks, cuff & 7. Underwear, polo
Cardigans etc collar etc shirt & sports wear

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Assignment.

1.single jersey

2.Rib

3.Interlock

4.Pique

5.Lacoste

6.Fleece

7.Terry

8.Knit Denim

9.Mesh Fabrics

10.Net Fabric

Week :6
Lecture :6

Needle Calculation for S/J & Double jersey M/C:

The design which s produced by dropping out needles in a machine that design is called drop
needle design.

1) Machine Specification:
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 Machine Diameter = 20"
Machine Gauge = 24
Type = Single Jersey
Total number of needles = ?? (To run the machine how many number of needles are
required)

We know,
C (circumference) = 2πr
∴ N = 2πrMachine Gauge = 23.1411024 = 1507.68 = 1508 Needles
Interlock Fabrics needle calculation=2πrGauge2=23.14110242=3016
 Drop knit is normally done for double jersey knitting because single jersey is made by
one set of needles. That’s why dropping out needles will create tiny gaps in single jersey
and thus strength will fall. But it could also be design.

2) Machine Specification:
Machine Diameter = 20"
Machine Gauge = 18
Type = Double Jersey (Rib)
Number of needles = ?

N = 2πrGauge2mM = 23.1411018 2 [because of 2 set of needles for double jersey] =

2261.52 = 2262

 Actually 11 rib does not mean drop. It means one loop is formed on face side and
another is formed on backside. To be drop; the design should be 22, 21 or more than it.

3) Machine Specification:
Machine Diameter = 20"
Machine Gauge = 22
Type = Interlock
Number of needles = ?

N = 2πrGauge2 = 23.1411022 2 = 2764.08 = 2764

Most common gauge for—

i. Plain / Single jersey = 24
ii. Interlock/ Double jersey = 22
iii. Rib = 18

Most Common Design:

i. 11 rib
ii. 22 rib
iii. 33 rib
iv. 55 rib
v. 32 rib
22
 vi. 21 rib

Principal of 22 rib:

In cylinder = Needle numbers 3, 6,9,12..... Are not in action.
In dial = Needle numbers 3, 6,9,12..... Are not in action.
And needle numbers 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 11…….are in action for both cylinder and dial
needles.

 To create a 22 rib design; mark by chalk on one position of the machine then frequently
count two needles and detach off one needle.
 N = 2πrGauge2/3= 23.1411022 2/3X2 = 1842

Principal of 33 rib:

In cylinder = Needle numbers 4, 5, 9,10,14,15..... Are not in action.
In dial = Needle numbers 4, 5, 9,10,14,15..... Are not in action.
And needle numbers 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13…...are in action for both cylinder and dial
needles.
2X3.141X18X20X2X3/5=2714N

Example: 1
Calculate the number of needles required in a rib machine for producing 22 rib design, if
machine dia 36" and gauge = 18.

In case of 22 rib:

N = 2πrGauge2
= 23.14118182/3 X2[π = 3.141, r = , G = 18 & 2 is the set of needles]
= 2714 NEEDLS

Rib and interlock both are double jersey fabric but the extensibility of interlock is less
than rib; explain.
The reason is due to loop formation mechanism. Rib loop formation mechanism is staggered
where interlock mechanism is face to face loop formation. That’s why rib (50%-100%) is
more extensible than interlock (10%-20%).

Rib and interlock both are double jersey, but the GSM of interlock is higher than rib;
explain.
GSM of interlock is higher than rib due to following reasons:
i. Gauge of interlock is higher than rib. Most common gauge for interlock is 22 and 24
where for rib 16 and 18.
ii. To form a complete course 2 yarns are required for interlock where 1 yarn is required
for rib.

Basic diagram of single jersey:

23
Basic diagram of Rib:

Week :7
Lecture :7

Machine Diameter vs. fabric diameter, criteria for yarn selection, effect of
yarn count on GSM:

24
Make a relationship between yarn count and GSM for single jersey fabric.
For Single Jersey:
Finished Fabric GSM
Yarn Count
24 Gauge 28 Gauge
40/1 : 90 – 100
10% times used 10+ with 24G GSM but
34/1 : 110 – 120
it gradually increase by
30/1 : 130 – 140
around 16 % upto 15+
26/1 : 155 – 165
90% times used depends on coarseness of
24/1 : 170 – 180
yarn.
20/1 : 190 – 200

 In case of GSM of 28 Gauge around 16% loop density increase than 24 Gauge. That’s
why not only 10+; it gradually increases up to 15+ by coarseness of yarn.

How will you minimize or increase the GSM of knit fabric?

 Suppose, buyer requirement is single jersey and GSM 130–140. Then we select 30/1 yarn.
And if buyer mention single jersey, 30/1 yarn and GSM 130–145.
 Then we select 28 Gauge (because loop density will be more thus GSM increase).
 If using 28 Gauge GSM is not according to buyer requirement then we can adjust
tension to increase or decrease GSM. But by increasing tension shrinkage will be
more where internationally/ ISO standard shrinkage percentage for cut and sew
knitwear is 5%. So, try to avoid increasing tension and if increase then machine
diameter takes higher to produce higher dia fabric according to shrinkage percentage.
All machine tension should be same for appropriate shrinkage percentage. The
problem normally occurs in case of sub-contract.
 If after increasing tension GSM is not markedly increase then next point to consider
yarn quality. By using comb yarn than carded yarn GSM increase. After a hot wash of
grey fabric made by carded yarn some immature short fibers are removed and thus
GSM decrease. But during manufacturing combed yarn upto 12 mm short fibers can
be removed. So GSM remains same.

Compactor machine: It is used in finishing section after dyeing to adjust fabric GSM.
Maximum 5%-7% GSM can be increase/decrease. By increasing/decreasing GSM fabric dia
also increase/decrease which helps to garments made by tubular fabric.

So, consider following points of a machine:

i. Machine gauge: Using lower or higher
ii. Yarn tension: Increase/ decrease
iii. Yarn quality: Comb yarn/ carded yarn

Cotton fiber length:

Indian/ Pakistani : 0.9"–1.1"
American Brand PIMA : 1"–1.75"
25
Egyptian : 2"–2.5"

Colored or finished fabric GSM always more than grey fabric GSM according to following
color:
Black : 20/21
Dark : 15
Light : 10
White : 5/6

 By pretreatment of grey fabric 5%-7% weight is lost. But applying color; weight is
increased. In case of white fabric; color is not used but optical 2% brightener is used.

 Sizing material is not used in knit fabric but waxing is used for smooth movement of yarn
through needle which is lost after scouring.

Why grey GSM is less than finished GSM?

Grey GSM is less than finished GSM because of following reasons:
i. Grey fabric dia always bigger than finished fabric which will shrink after pretreatment
and thus GSM increase.
ii. Depth of color which is applied to finished fabric.

 Depth of color means shade percentage such as 10% shade means 10 kg dyestuff in 100
kg fabric.

For 11 rib:

Finished Fabric GSM
Yarn Count
18 Gauge 16 Gauge
40/1 : 150 – 160
34/1 : 160 – 170 -5
30/1 : 170 – 180
26/1 : 190 – 200
24/1 : 210 – 220 -10
20/1 : 240 – 250

For Interlock:
Finished Fabric GSM
Yarn Count
22 Gauge 24 Gauge
40/1 : 170 – 180
Mostly used 34/1 : 190 – 200 +10
30/1 : 230 – 240
Rarely used 26/1 : 250 – 260 +15
26
 24/1 : 270 – 280
20/1 : 290 – 300

 For single jersey, rib and interlock 30/1 yarn is mostly used.

Why 30/1 yarn is mostly used for interlock?

30/1 yarn is mostly used for interlock because of the following reasons:
i. Loop forms face to face.
ii. Machine gauge is higher than rib.
So, fabric thickness is increased by face to face loops and, loops density is increase by higher
gauge thus GSM increase. To control fabric thickness or GSM finer yarn should be used.
That’s why 30/1 is used.

 Normally highest GSM used for interlock is 180–250 GSM. 250 GSM can be produced
by 30/1 and 24 gauge.

Most common yarn count for:

Single jersey = 20/1– 40/1
Rib = 26/1– 34/1
Interlock = 30/1– 40/1

If machine dia is 30" then what will be the fabric dia of single jersey?
Ans. If machine dia is 30" then the fabric dia of single jersey will be maximum 33".

 Mostly machine dia and fabric dia is same for rib and interlock. For rib fabric dia is upto
1" more than m/c dia and for interlock fabric dia is upto 2" more than m/c dia. And for
single jersey fabric dia is upto 3" more than m/c dia. That means, in case of 30 dia m/c S/J
fabric dia could be 33" and rib fabric could be 31" and for interlock fabric could be 32".

For Pique and Lacoste:

40–50 GSM will be more than single jersey.

Finished Fabric GSM

Yarn Count
24 Gauge
40/1 : 130 – 140
34/1 : 150 – 160
30/1 : 170 – 180
26/1 : 195 – 205
24/1 : 210 – 220
20/1 : 230 – 240

 Pique and Lacoste GSM will differ.

 For 20" single jersey dia standard is +7 for tuck cam that means 27" dia fabric.

If machine dia 20 for pique (1 knit & 1 tuck):

27
30/1 :- 7" = 27"
26/1 :- 8" = 28"
24/1 :- 9" = 29"
20/1 :- 10" = 30"

If machine dia 20 for lacoste:

30/1 :- 6" = 26"
26/1 :- 7" = 27"
24/1 :- 8" = 28"
20/1 :- 9" = 29"

For Single jersey with Lycra:

Finished Fabric GSM
Yarn Count For 24 Gauge
+20 Denier Lycra +40 Denier Lycra
40/1 110 – 120 130 – 140
34/1 130 – 140 150 – 160
30/1 150 – 160 170 – 180
26/1 175 – 185 215 – 225
24/1 190 – 200 230 – 240
20/1 210 – 230 250 – 270

Lycra = Elastic yarn

Two size of Lycra is used in cut and sew knitwear:

i. 20 Denier &
ii. 40 Denier

 Lycra is measured in denier. Lycra is a commercial name. Generic name of this material
is Spandex. 75 denier Lycra is used for socks.

28
 Week :8
Lecture : 8

KNITWEAR ANALYSIS

All in one :— An undergarment that combines a girdle and brassiere in one piece.
Bib pant :— These are trousers with an attached front patch covering the chest and
with attached suspenders (also called braces in England) which go over
the shoulders. Often people use the word "overall" for the bib type
garment.
Stocking :— A close-fitting covering for the foot and part of the leg, usually knitted, of
wool, cotton, nylon, silk, or similar material.
Bikini :— A very brief, close-fitting, two-piece bathing suit for women or girls.
Brief :— Close-fitting, legless underpants with an elastic waistband.
Twin set :— A matched sleeveless or short-sleeved sweater and cardigan sold to be
worn together.
Wrap over :—
Waistcoat :— A short, sleeveless, collarless garment worn especially over a shirt and
often under a suit jacket; a vest.

+
Visual Identification

29
 Week : 9 & 10
Lecture : 9 &10

Knitwear consumption calculation for T-shirts,Polo-shirts & Trousers

Fabric consumption/Dozen:

Consider for —
i. Knit (Weight) = kg/Dozen (because dimensional stability is not good/ not stable)
ii. Woven (Length) = yards or meters/Dozen

Standard fabric consumption for —

1. T- Shirt is 2.00-2.50 kg/Dz and
2. Polo Shirt is 2.50-3.00 kg/Dz

 Sometimes fleece fabric is bought in considering length (yard or meters). Because

dimensional stability is good.

T/ Polo shirt measurement:

Original measurement Sewing Allowance Pattern measurement
½ Chest : 45 cm 6 cm = 51 cm
HPS : 84 cm 5 cm = 89 cm
CBL : 73 cm =
Armhole : 36 cm 2 cm = 38 cm
Sleeve L : 24 cm 5 cm = 29 cm
Neck L : 41cm 4 cm = 45 cm
Neck W : 4cm 2 cm = 6 cm

 S/J fabric GSM is 160 and for neck rib GSM is 205.

30
Now,
Body = 1.74 kg/dz
Sleeve = 0.42 kg/dz
Neck = 0.07 kg/dz
Total = 2.23 kg/dz
Wastage 7% = 2.23x7/100 kg/dz
∴Total
= 2.23+0.156 kg/dz = 2.39kg/dz
consumption

Standard rib fabric

 Consumption for round neck is 100 gm/dz and V neck is 150 gm/dz.

 For men’s polo shirt (regular size): fabric consumption for 12 collars is 400 gm and 24
cuffs is 300 gm (including wastage). So, by adding (400+300) = 700 gm to T-shirt
consumption and subtracting 100 gm rib neck consumption in T-shirt; we can find out
polo shirt fabric consumption.

2.Costing = total fabrics x unit price

2.39x$3.80/KG
=$9.082/dz

Total Fabrics price = $9.082/dz

Trims &Accessories = $ 2.5 /dz
Print (Rubber) = $ 2.5/dz
Embroidery charge =$ 2.00/dz
Cost of Manufacturing (CM) = $ 4.50/dz
Total cost = $20.058/dz
Banking & Commercial = $20.58+ 5% of total cost 1.029
= $20.58+ 1.029

Total costing per doz = $ 21.61/dz + profit 5%(1.080)

Total FOB Pricing per doz = $ 22.69/dz

A garment factory needs to complete 60,000 pieces Trouser. They have only 12
days (1 day = 8 hour) time for production. Calculate how many operators
required/day? And how many lines required.

31
Solve:
Order quantity = 60,000 pieces
∴Target/day = = 5,000 pieces
1 day = 8 hours = 8Í60 = 480 minutes
∴SMV = = 10.41 for each shirt

∴Number of operators required/day = = 46 operators (if their performance/ efficiency

is 100%)

32
33
 COST SHEET

Direct Cost Quantity/Dozen Unit Price Total Cost

1. Fabric 2.50 kg $ 5.00 $ 12.50

2. Trimmings &
accessories:
Thread $ 2.00
Label
Carton & others
3. C.M (Labor cost) $ 2.00
Total FOB $16.50

Indirect Cost Overhead Cost Total Cost

1. Salaries
2. Rent
3. Utilities (Gas, electricity etc) $ 3.30
4. Insurance
5. Transport etc
Total

Profit: 5% A+B = $ 0.99

∴Total
A+B = $ 19.80
Cost
Costing A+B+C = $ 20.79

Quote a FOB price for 1 dozen T/ Polo shirt. (Assume)

 T-shirt productivity is double than polo shirt. That’s why cost of manufacturing of a polo
shirt is double than T-shirt. Accessories charge for polo shirt is 50 cents more than a T-
shirt.

Accessories price:
Label:
Main label = 15-20 cents/dz
Care label = 10-12 cents/dz
Size label = 4-5 cents/dz
Total = 37 cents/dz

Sewing thread: White 45 cents/cone and color 50 cents/cone.

Sewing thread consumption for one T-shirt is 100 cm.

∴ Sewing thread consumption for 12 T-shirt is (12Í100) = 1,200 cm.
4,000 meter thread price is $0.45
∴1,200 meter thread price is = $ 0.13

34
Price of 7 ply carton for 24 pieces garments is $ 2.00
∴ Price of 7 ply carton for 12 pieces garments is = $ 1.00

Trims and accessories charge:

Sewing chare = $ 0.13
Label = $ 0.37
Carton = $ 1.00
Others (poly bag, hang tag etc) = $ 0.50
Total = $ 2.00

Indirect cost:
Standard is 15-20% of direct cost but for peak season it could be 35%.

 Price of zipper is 60-80 cents/dz.

 Embroidery charge for 1,000 stitches is 22 cents.

 Price of S/J fabric; white is $ 4.00/ kg and colored is $ 1.00 more because of dyeing
charge, which means $ 5.00/ kg.

 Knitting charge for pique/ lacoste and rib & interlock 25-30 cents more than S/J.

Knitting charge:
Feeder stripe = $ 0.50/ kg
Engineering/ auto stripe = $ 1.00-1.50/ kg
Jacquard stripe = $ 2.50/ kg

 BEP (Break Even Point): If factory have no work then charge for no profit no loss.
Indirect charge will be less because CM includes workers’ wage.

 CM and indirect cost includes some profit.

 If different colored fabric is sewn together to form a garment; then same construction/
GSM fabric should be used. Otherwise puckering occurs.

Week : 11
35
 Lecture : 11

Faults, Causes & their Remedies in Knitted fabric:

Circular knitting is one of the easiest and fastest ways (20 million stitches per minute) of
producing cloth and textile pieces such as garments, socks and gloves. Fabric faults, or
defects, are responsible for nearly 85% of the defects found by the garment industry. An
automated defect detection and identification system enhances the product quality and results
in improved productivity to meet both customer demands and to reduce the costs associated
with off-quality. Higher production speeds make the timely detection of fabric defects more
important than ever. Presently, inspection is done manually when a significant amount of
fabric is produced; the fabric roll is removed from circular knitting machine and then sent to
an inspection frame. An optimal solution would be to automatically inspect fabric as it is
being produced and to encourage maintenance personnel to prevent production of defects or
to change process parameters automatically and consequently improve product quality.

1. Hole Mark
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle Mark
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a
result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend, then sinker mark comes.
36
 Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.

4. Star Mark
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop Stitches
Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.

Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be proper.

6. Oil stain

Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it passes on the fabrics and make a line.

Remedies:
37
  Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7. Rust stain
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts, then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.

9. Grease stain
Causes:
 Improper greasing
 Excess greasing
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall- out

Causes:
 Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of
the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.

11. Barre:
38
 A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise)
stripe(s).
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn &
these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
 We can use this fabric in white color.
12. Fly:
Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to
low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface
tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
 Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
13. Yarn contamination
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
.
14. Yarn Faults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness.

39
 Week : 12
Lecture : 12

Review of Classes
Assignment Discussion

40