A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

HOMESTEAD LIVING
EBOOK
 A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

HOMESTEAD
LIVING

01 05
DEHYDRATING SOURDOUGH

13 18
CANNING CHEVRE
BASICS

HOMESTEAD LIVING EBOOK

 A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

HOMESTEAD
LIVING

22 26
HAND SALVE THE MILK COW

33 39
BEEKEEPING DRY INCUBATION

HOMESTEAD LIVING EBOOK

 A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

HOMESTEAD
LIVING

43 57
04
BROODING LAND BUYING
CHICKS BASICS

62 70
GRASS FED BEEF GARDEN TRUG

HOMESTEAD LIVING EBOOK

 HOMESTEAD LIVING

KOOBE GNIVIL DAETSEMOH

OT EDIUG SRENNIGEB A

Contributors: Tara of She's Rooted Home,Alexa of The

Duvall Homestead, Sylvie Manderstrom, Mikayla of
Herrmann Homest e ad, Krista of Harvest Hill Farms, Jenn
of The Everyday Farmhouse, Shawna of Southeasterly
Farms, Tiffany of Down A Cow Trail, Tiffany of Good
Steading Farm, and Rachel of Happy Dirt Life
INTRODUCTION

MEET THE MAKERS

Hello there,, I'm Tara from She's Rooted Home, where I share
our family s journey as we cultivate a homestead, work
towards an organic lifestyle and share crochet basics. I’m a
mother of 3, homestead enthusiast, plant lover, and crochet
addict. Join me and my family as we root ourselves in a
simpler way of life. Find out more about me
@shesrootedhome
Hi! I'm Alexa from The Duvall Homestead. I am passionate
GNIVIL DAETSEMOH

about bringing food to my family that is straight from either

our yard or the farm down the street, as well as creating a
homemade and all natural home. I share recipes and other
homemaking tips, farmhouse DIYs and more on my blog at
www.theduvallhomestead.com! @theduvallhomestead
Hi friends! I'm Sylvie, a wife and mama currently living on a
one acre homestead. We purchased our very first home in the
country 7 years ago. We have learnt so much on becoming
sustainable from gardening, canning, raising beef, and more
recently added a small flock in hopes to share eggs with
family and friends! We have 4000 square feet of space
dedicated to grow veggies and flowers. We're currently
building bigger dreams on more land and hope you'll follow
along our journey @smanderstrom
INTRODUCTION

MEET THE MAKERS

Hello, I'm Mikayla from the Herrmann Homestead! I was born
& raised in the city, but have always dreamed of having a
farm and becoming more self sufficient. When I married my
husband in 2018, I moved to a small town in Oklahoma & my
dreams started becoming a reality! We have several farm
animals, have recently started raising our own meat, making
bread, milking, canning, gardening, & building a farmhouse!
Follow along on our homesteading journey @mikayla_beth.
Hey there! I'm Krista from Harvest Hill Farms and I live with
my husband, fur babies, and brood of chickens in North Idaho.
I'm a lover of coffee, crafts, design, and seasonal living. I
GNIVIL DAETSEMOH

also own Harvest Hill farm, where I make homemade goods

for elevated everyday living and homesteading printables.
Find out more about me at @harvesthillfarms.
Hey there, I'm Jennifer from The Everyday Farmhouse. We
dreamed for years of having our own homestead, hoping and
praying that it would become reality. Here we are 9 years
later, living our dream! We now raise all of our own meat and
do our best to garden! I am a homeschooling mama to 10,
milk-maid, chicken chaser, cow lover, guinea tolerator, pig
cooker and wannabe beekeeper! I blog at The Everyday
Farmhouse.com where I share creative DIY's, recipes and
things from my heart. You can follow our homesteading
adventures on Instagram @theeverydayfarmhouse
Hi friends, I’m Shawna from SoutheasterlyFarms. I am a wife,
mom of two littles and in love with all things farm, garden and
homesteading. We recently bought 70 acres in Southeast
Oklahoma where we are building our new homestead from
scratch. I hope you will follow along with us on our newest
adventures growing a family, farm and garden, here, in small
town Oklahoma. Follow us @southeasterlyfarms
INTRODUCTION

MEET THE MAKERS

Hello friend! I'm Rachel Fernandez of Happy Dirt Life and I

help people just like you find joy in the simple things, take
steps (big or small!) towards more sustainable living, and
figure out how to love Jesus more everyday. I blog at
HappyDirtLife.com and run the 'gram @happy.dirt.life where I
aim to meet you wherever you are on your homesteading and
faith journey and encourage you to keep on discovering the
beauty all around you!
GNIVIL DAETSEMOH

We are Chris and Tiffany Goodson and we believe that no

matter what your "homestead" looks like, you can care for it
well. Join us as we help you to steward and STEAD your home
place. You can find a little bit of country life wrapped up in
wellness, faith, and good food on our farm. You are welcome
here @goodsteading
Hi there, I’m Tiffany from Down A Cow Trail. Originally from a
small farm in the PNW, I married a 5th generation cattle
Rancher and moved to the Nebraska Sandhills. Our family
ranch (EST. in 1885), land, and cattle are our livelihood, and
we live this life to continue the legacy passed down to us.
There is always work to be done and projects to dream up.
Come along as I share about my life as a rancher’s wife on
the Nebraska Prairie and my love for all things heritage,
hand-sown and homegrown. Find me @downacowtrail.
 HOW TO GET STARTED

DEHYDRATE
A BEGINNERS GUIDE

1
 DEHYDRATING

GNITARDYHED DETRATS TEG OT WOH

EMOH DETOOR S'EHS

Dehydrating food from your garden, farmers

market or grocery store lets you preserve it at
its best flavor, lowest cost and prevents
waste.

2
DEHYDRATING

HANG DRY

Did you know you don't need a dehydrator to dehydrate food.

Hang drying, the oven and sun dried are all great ways of
dehydrating herbs, flowers, fruits & vegetables as well as
meats.
Drying herbs is cheaper then buying store bought dried herbs
EMOH DETOOR S'EHS

and spices. In fact, you can buy a lot of fresh herbs at the
grocery store or farmers market and dry them yourself,
helping you saving money.

Pro tips:
A salad spinner is a great way to clean your herbs. Fill
with water and gently swish them around. Dump out the
water and spin to remove excess water.
When hang drying herbs, tightly tie a knot around the
bundle. As the herbs loose water they will shrink and
likely fall out of a loose knot, onto the floor.
Once your herbs are dry enough they should easily
crumble in your hands.
Once dried store in a clean glass jar with a lid.
For herbs and spices grind using a mortar & pestle, chop
with a cutting board and knife or place in a plastic bag and
crumble with hands.

3
DEHYDRATING

DEHYDRATOR

Using an eletric dehydrator is my preferred method of

dehydrating for so many reasons. The first being that it is
quicker. I can dry almost anything from the garden overnight.
I also love that the dehydrator helps keep the color of most
of my herbs, flowers or produce, where I feel like hang drying
can sometimes cause it to loose its color.
EMOH DETOOR S'EHS

Why dehydrate verses canning?

Dehydrating is a lot easier to learn & less intimidating. Simply
cut and layout your herbs, flowers, fruits or vegetables, even
meats and turn on to the correct setting. Dehydrating also
requires a lot less time and space.
Pro tips:
Cut your slices evenly. Example: tomatoes, zucchini,
apricots and so on..
You can dehydrate frozen fruits & vegeteables. No need
to thaw.
Prevent fruit from turning brown by dipping in a 50/50
water & lemon juice mixture.
You can rehydrate fruits & vegetables by soaking in
water.
Dehydrating prevents waste. Add greens like spinach or
kale to your dehydrator and use later for smoothies.
Dried fruit is a great & healthy alternative to candy.
You will need more time than you think to fully dehydrate
food. Don't worry so much about over dehydrating! I
usually set mine to run overnight and into the morning
hours.
4
 HOMESTEAD LIVING

SOURDOUGH
A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO MAKING AND CARING FOR
SOURDOUGH

5
 HOMESTEAD LIVING

W H AT I S S O U RD O U G H?
SOURDOUGH COMES FROM THE NATURAL
FERMENTATION PROCESS WHEN YOU COMBINE FLOUR
AND WATER. THIS PROCESS YEILDS A FERMENTED,
PROBIOTIC RICH, EASIER TO DIGEST GRAIN THAT CAN
BE USED TO MAKE RISING BREAD PRODUCTS.
SOURDOUGH IS ALIVE AND ACTIVE, SO IT MUST BE FED
AND ONLY GETS STRONGER WITH TIME.

6
WWW.THEDUVALLHOMESTEAD.COM
 "But how do you make the sourdough?"
"You start it, by putting some flour and warm water in a jar and letting
it stand till it sours."
Laura Ingalls Wilder By the Shores of Silver Lake

7
 SOURDOUGH

SOURDOUGH
STARTER
Sourdough starter is a mixture of flour and water that has
been fermented so it has active and alive cultures, so active
in fact that in can make bread rise without store bought
yeast. Making your own bread products with sourdough
starter means you’ll get all the probiotics of fermented
cultures, plus an more easily digestable grain.
Below are the steps to creating your own sourdough starter.
The process takes 7-14 days, but once it's done, you can
keep it forever with proper care and it can be ready to make
bread in just a few hours.
DAETSEMOH LLAVUD EHT

Day 1: Add 1 cup of flour and ¾ cup of filtered water to a

glass bowl or mason jar. Stir with a wooden spoon. Cover with
a tea towel and let sit on your countertop.
Day 2: Discard half of the starter mixture. Then, add 1 cup of
flour and ¾ cup of filtered water. Cover with a tea towel and
let sit on your counter.
Day 3: Discard half the starter, and again add 1 cup flour and
¾ – 1 cup water. Stir with a wooden spoon, cover and let sit.
This time, repeat the discard and feed process twice per day
(morning and night for example). You might feel like
discarding the starter is wasteful and you will hate to do it.
But it’s only for a week and you won’t be discarding anymore.
If you really want to save the discard, you can use it for
making sourdough pancakes or tortillas, because they don’t
require a rise like bread. Just combine all the discard in a
storable container in the fridge and pull it out when you want
to make pancakes.

www.theduvallhomestead.com 8
 SOURDOUGH

SOURDOUGH
STARTER CONT.
Day 4: Repeat the twice a day discarding and feeding. Cover
with a tea towel and let sit. Make sure you are using filtered
water! At this point you may start to see bubbles in the
starter. If not, just keep going.
Day 5: Repeat the twice a day discarding and feeding. Now
you should start seeing a bigger, more bubbly starter.
Day 6 and 7: repeat. Your starter should be ready by day 7.
You know your starter is ready when it almost doubles in size
after feeding it and is bubbly. If your starter isn’t at that
DAETSEMOH LLAVUD EHT

point yet, don’t worry! Just continue the twice a day

discarding and feeding. The temperature in your home, your
water quality, and flour quality are all factors that contribute
to how quickly your starter will become active. For some, it
takes 12-14 days. Others it could take 5.

www.theduvallhomestead.com 9
 SOURDOUGH

SOURDOUGH
BREAD
What I love about sourdough bread is that you can just pull flour
out of your cupboard, add your starter, and the next day you get a
gorgeous loaf to feed your family. I never really cared about
making food beautiful, but when I pull this loaf out of the oven I
am amazed every time.

INGREDIENTS
3/4 cup active sourdough starter (you know your starter is ready
if a spoonful floats in a cup of water)
DAETSEMOH LLAVUD EHT

1 1/2 cup water

Just over 4 and 1/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
You'll also need a mixing bowl, a dutch oven, and parchment paper
Note: total time is 36ish hours. For bread on Sunday night, take
starter out of fridge Saturday early morning, feed it, and begin the
below process Saturday late afternoon when starter passes the
float test described above.

THE PROCESS
Pour the sourdough starter, water, and salt into a large mixing bowl
and whisk until combined. Add the flour and combine with your
hands for about 20 seconds until all the flour is absorbed and you
have a sticky, doughy, blob. Cover the bowl with a tea towel and let
rest 30 minutes.

www.theduvallhomestead.com 10
 SOURDOUGH

THE PROCESS, CONT.

Next you're going to do a series of lifting and folding the dough 4 times
every hour for 3 hours. This allows the temperature of the dough to
regulate and the cultures to evenly spread out. Starting from one end
of the dough, lift it up and fold it over itself into the center of the
dough. Then rotate the bowl 90 degrees and repeat, until all sides have
been lifted, tucked and folded. So, four times total. Cover the bowl and
let sit on the counter. Then, repeat the lifts and tucks 2 more times
(for a total of 3 times), each about one hour apart. Now, don't get too
obsessed with this part. This is just creating nice volume in your bread.
If you skip one or let two hours go by instead of one, your dough is still
fine.Next is the bulk ferment. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and
place in the fridge overnight.
The next day, pull the dough out of the fridge and clear a spot on your
countertop. On half the counter, sprinkle some flour and leave the
DAETSEMOH LLAVUD EHT

other half clean with no flour. Remove the dough from the bowl and
place on the flour side. Do one more round of the lift and tucks to form
your dough into a ball. Remove the dough from the flour side, flip it
over, and set it on the non-flour side. Form the letter C with both your
hands and use a cupping motion around the dough to create a ball.
Rotate the ball with short rotations in a circle.
Place a piece of parchment paper in a dutch oven and set the dough
inside. Cover with a tea towel and let sit on the counter for at least 2
more hours.
When your'e ready to bake, take your bread and parchment paper out of
the dutch oven and let sit on your counter. Then take your empty dutch
oven and put in your oven at 450 degrees F to preheat it.
Before baking, you need to "score" the bread. Take a serrated knife and
make two 1/2 inch slits in the dough (see picture below).
Once the oven is preheated, remove the dutch oven carefully and put
the parchment paper with the scored bread dough inside. Place the lid
on top and put the whole thing, dutch oven with dough and lid, in the
oven and cook for 25 minutes.

11
www.theduvallhomestead.com
 SOURDOUGH

THE PROCESS, CONT.

After 25 minutes, take the lid off the dutch oven and place it back in
the oven and bake for an additional 20 minutes.
Remove the bread from the dutch oven carefully and place on a cooling
rack. This is very important! You will be tempted to dive right in to your
bread, but don't. It needs to sit for 1 hour before you can cut it! If you
listen closely you'll hear the bread continue to bake even after you pull
it out of the oven. Resist the temptation to devour it :)
Enjoy your homemade sourdough bread!
DAETSEMOH LLAVUD EHT

12
www.theduvallhomestead.com
 HOMESTEAD LIVING

WATER BATH

C AN NI N G B A SI C S
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO LEARN TO GET STARTED

13
 CANNING BASICS

GETTING STARTED
Canning is the art of preserving fresh summer produce to enjoy during the
cooler months when the garden is taking a rest. It’s also a great way to use
up any extra bounty that your neighbours can no longer handle, like all
those zucchini’s that are magically appearing in your garden every day.
You need a few things to get started, here’s how you’ll use them:
Water Canner : in order to preserve your fruits/vegetable to safely
consume later, jars need to be heated at a certain temperature to kill and
remove bacteria from growing. A hot water canner has a metal rack in
which you can lift and lower to make handling the jars a little easier. Don’t
have a canner? Simply use the largest pot you have on hand, fill it with
water, and place a tea towel on the very bottom. The tea towel is in place
to prevent jars from shattering when they are processing.
Canning Toolkit : a canning toolkit contains a few tools to make the job
easier, although it is not completely necessary as you can use other
DAETSEMOH MORTSREDNAM

kitchen tools that you may already have on hand. The kit contains a jar
funnel, jar lifter, magnetic lid lifter and bubble remover/headspace tool.
The jar lifter is definitely recommended as jars are extremely hot to handle
and these can be purchased separately. A plastic tool can also be used in
place of the bubble remover (avoid using metal as it can cause damage to
the glass jar). The other tools are not as necessary.
Jars : jars come in an assortment of shapes and sizes. The best ones to
use are the ones made for processing. In Canada, Bernardin and Golden
Harvest are great choices. In the US, Ball and Kerr are the way to go.
When you purchase these jars in a case, they come with lids and rims. If
you are using jars that you have previously used for processing, always
make sure to purchase new lids (as they are a one time use only) and make
sure the rims have no rust on the inside.
Recipe : find a tried and true recipe that you can trust. One of the biggest
rules when it comes to canning is to not alter a recipe! Altering recipes can
cause a change in pH balance. This pH balance is extremely important in
keeping your preserves fresh and free of bacteria/botulism. Some of my
favourite books include: The Canning Kitchen, Food in Jars, Naturally Sweet
Food in Jars, and Preserving by the Pint.
Recipe Ingredients : always use the freshest produce possible for the best
tasting preserves. Make sure to use pickling salt and the correct
percentage of vinegar that the recipe calls for. When using sugar in
recipes, cane sugar or white granulated sugar can both be used.

14
 BREAD & BUTTER PICKLE RECIPE
FROM THE CANNING KITCHEN
DAETSEMOH MORTSREDNAM

There are so many delicious recipes that can be canned using the
water bath canning method. Jams, jellies, marmalades, chutneys,
pickles, relishes, salsas, and a variety of sauces.

15
 CANNING BASICS

BASIC TIPS
Now that you have everything you need to get started, here are some of
the basic steps to follow:
Sterilizing Jars : when using store bought jars, it’s a good idea to sterilize
them as they haven’t been in a sterile environment. They are likely full of
dust, and debris. Wash them in hot soapy water, then place them in the hot
water canner and bring to a boil. The jars must be completely submerged in
hot boiling water for 10 minutes.
If you are re-using your jars, this step is not necessary if the water
processing time of your recipe is over 10 minutes. Simply wash them in hot
soaper water, and keep them warm (to avoid breakage from pouring hot
contents in a cold jar), you can do this by keeping them in a sink filled with
hot water or in your hot water canner as you pre-boil for processing.
Lids & Rims : lids and rims should be washed in hot soapy water. Lids no
DAETSEMOH MORTSREDNAM

longer have to be warmed up before placing them on the jar, you can simply
use them at room temperature. The rims do not have to be sterilized as
they are not touching any food.
Preparing the recipe : when it comes to preparing your recipe, follow the
method listed as it’s important to follow it as written. Spices and
seasoning can be altered to your taste. Vinegar, salt, sugar and lemon juice
should always be used as the recipe requires for safe canning.
Note: always used bottled lemon juice when it is listed in a recipe as it
contains a consistent pH level. Fresh lemons of different ripeness do not
contain the same amount of pH and are not safe to use to bring the pH of
the recipe higher.
Tip: when you are preparing your recipe, warm up your hot water canner. It
can take a while to bring the water to a boil from cold. It can always be
turned down if it is boiling before you are done preparing your jars. It will
return to a boil much faster. Note that when you are processing your jars,
the water must return to a boil before timing can begin.
Filling the jars : jars need to be kept warm before adding contents to them
(this prevents the glass from possibly shattering from adding hot food
inside cold jars). If you sterilized your jars, you can keep them warm in the
water canner until the recipe is ready to be processed. Jars can also be
kept warm in a sink with hot water.
Line up the jars on a tea towel (to prevent hot jars on a cold surface), use
the funnel to pour contents inside up to the recommended headspace,
followed by inserting a plastic tool to remove air bubbles. Wipe the rim of
the jar, place lid on top and tighten the rim only until fingertip tight. Place
jars in the hot water canner and process according to recipe.
16
 CANNING BASICS

BASIC TIPS
Altitude Processing Times: something to keep in mind is that different
areas around the world have different altitudes. This is important when it
comes to canning because higher altitudes need longer processing times.
You can find this chart on the National Center for Home Food Preservation
website to find out which is best for your area.
Headspace : headspace is the area between the contents and the lid. In
order to get the perfect seal, it’s important to follow the space that the
recipe requires. It’s also important to wipe the rim of the jar before placing
the lids to insure in the perfect seal.
Removing air bubbles : before placing the lids on the jars, use a plastic
tool to remove the air bubbles in the jar. Too many air bubbles can cause air
to leak from the jars which can break the seal. If this happens, jars can not
be stored in the pantry and must be placed in the refrigerator and used
within usually three weeks.
DAETSEMOH MORTSREDNAM

Skimming foam from jam : the foam on top of the jam after cooking time
are air bubbles. If you fail to remove the foam, you are simply adding more
air into the jar which can affect the headspace. Jam also usually has a
short processing time, a longer processing time is usually needed to
remove excess air from the jar. This can later affect storage.
Tightening rims : when placing the rim on the jar, do not tighten as hard as
you can but only firmly to be sure that air can be pushed out of the jars
when they are processing. Once they are done processing, the rims may
have loosened and that’s normal. When jars have cooled you can remove
the rings before storing the jars in your pantry. This prevents the rims from
rusting and can also help with seeing if a jar spoils.
Cooling jars : when jars are done processing, if you are using a water bath
canner with the wire wrack, lift the wrack and let jars stand for 5 minutes.
Then move the jars onto a tea towel placed on the counter. Avoid placing
jars on a cool surface as it can cause the jars to break.
Checking sealed jars : after the jars have cooled for 12 to 24 hours, check
the seals before storing them in the pantry. To do this, press the middle of
the lid down. If the lid pops, it has not properly sealed. Place this jar in the
refrigerator and consume within three weeks.

I hope that these canning basics, as well as tips give you inspiration to start
preserving your fresh garden harvests for the winter months.
Best of luck in your canning journey friends!

17
 GARLIC & HERB

CHEVRE
MADE WITH FARM FREASH GOATS MILK

WWW.HERRMANNHOMESTEAD.WEEBLY.COM
18
CHEVRE

WHAT IS CHEVRE?

Chevre is French for goat milk cheese. Goat cheeses are

lower in fat and higher in Vitamin A. Goat cheeses have a
unique, tart, earthy flavour that sets them apart from cow
cheeses.
DAETSEMOH NNAMRREH

Chevre could be made in a wide variety of styles, from soft

fresh cheese to hard aged cheese. It also could be made to
be a sweet dessert cheese or flavorful herb filled cheese.
I've made both & they are equally DELICIOUS!

After our trip to France last fall, chevre had made the list of
things I wanted to try to make after we started milking our
Nigerian Dwarves! After researching a bit, I found that
typically when making chevre, you use a "chevre starter"
which is basically a packet of starter cultures. I didn't have
this, so I found out how to make it without one!

Instead, my recipe uses lemon juice & vinegar. After applying

heat, when you add the lemon juice & vinegar, the acid will
denature the proteins. That causes the whey, water, and
casein proteins to separate, forming small cheese curds.

19
 DAETSEMOH NNAMRREH

I hang my cheesecloth with the chevre curds from my sink faucet & let
the whey drain into a bowl in my sink. For a soft cheese, I typically let it
drain for 40 min. For a harder, crumblier cheese, around an hour.

20
CHEVRE

INGREDIENTS
1 Quart Goats Milk
1/4 Cup Lemon Juice
2 TBSP White Vinegar
1 TSP Salt
2 TSP McCormick Roasted Garlic & Herb Seasoning
(can substitute for fresh herbs/other seasonings)
Cheesecloth
Thermometer

DIRECTIONS
DAETSEMOH NNAMRREH

In a large pot, add cold goats milk. On medium heat, stir until
goats milk reaches 175-180F degrees. Milk should begin
curdling but not boil. Remove from heat & add lemon and
vinegar. Stir, and let sit for 5 min.
While the milk is separating, set a colander lined with 4
layers of cheese cloth over a bowl. Slowly pour curds & whey
into colander. Let drain for at least 10 min. Remove the
cheese cloth & suspend with a knot over sink. Let cheese
drain for at least 40 min. DO NOT SQUEEZE. The longer you let
the cheese drain, the harder and crumblier it will be.
Dump curds onto a plate & gently knead in salt & seasoning
with your finger tips. {Mine was very crumbly at this point}
Dump curds into 2 layers of plastic wrap, twist tightly into a
circle shape. Place in fridge for 24 hours & enjoy!
If you want to crust it in herbs also, which I did, place in
fridge for 2 hours, take it out & unwrap it, roll it carefully on a
plate with seasonings & wrap back up. Place back in fridge, &
let it sit for the remaining 22 hours.

21
 CALENDULA INFUSED

H AN D S AL VE
FOR HARDWORKING HANDS

22
 W H Y W E L O V E CA LE N DU L A

- DECREASES SWELLING
- REDUCES INFLAMMATION
- PROMOTES WOUND HEALING
- PROTECTS SKIN FROM HARMFUL UV RAYS
- NOURISHES SKIN WITH VARIETY OF VITAMINS AND MINERALS

TO USE:
REMOVE A SMALL AMOUNT FROM THE JAR AND MELT BETWEEN
YOUR FINGERTIPS, THEN SPREAD IT INTO YOUR CUTICLES AND
THE CRACKS IN YOUR HANDS, ELBOWS, AND FEET.

23
 This nourishing salve also makes
a thoughtful gift & stocking stuffer

24
CALENDULA SALVE

INGREDIENTS
CALENDULA INFUSED OIL
- 1 C. dried calendula flowers
- 1 1/2 C. carrier oil (I like to use a blend of equal parts olive
oil, coconut oil, and sweet almond oil)
CALENDULA SALVE
- 1 C. calendula infused oil
- 1 oz. beeswax
- 1 oz. refined shea butter
- 10 drops lavender essential oil
- 10 drops eucalyptus essential oil

DIRECTIONS
SMRAF LLIH TSEVRAH

CALENDULA INFUSED OIL

1. Put dried calendula flowers into a pint sized jar and cover
them with the carrier oil of your choice. If you use
coconut oil, it's helpful to melt it first.
2. Let your calendula oil sit in a dark place for 1-2 weeks.
3. Strain out the flowers using a fine mesh sieve.
CALENDULA SALVE
1. Create a makeshift double boiler by putting a small bowl
or a glass Pyrex measuring cup over a pot with about an
inch of simmering water.
2. Put the calendula oil and beeswax into the small bowl or
Pyrex, and heat until the beeswax completely dissolves
into the oil, stirring occasionally.
3. Add the shea butter and stir until it completely dissolves.
4. Stir in the essential oils.
5. Carefully pour the mixture into small jars or tins and let
sit until the salves sets up completely.
*Note - This recipe makes approximately 10 oz. (Five 2 oz.
tins)

25
THE MILK COW

www.theeverydayfarmhouse.com

26
 ESUOHMRAF YADYREVE EHT

43/60
MILK COW

27
9 .LOV | ENIZAGAM ELYTSEFIL DETARUC A
THE MILK
COW
A SIMPLE GUIDE FOR
BECOMING A MILK MAID

A milk cow is one of the greatest joys of a homestead. When

we dreamed of our country life, milk cow was at the top of my
wishlist. However, it is an endeavor that must be well thought
through. I hope to give you a few things to consider before
you jump in as a milk maid (or milk man!).
First, here is a quick vocabulary list:
Cattle: this is the term for males, females or calves
Heifer: A female that has never had a calf
Cow: A female that has had a calf
Bull: A male
Sire: A mature male for breeding
Steer: A castrated male used for beef
Calf: A young one, male of female usually under 1 1/2 years old
Calving: The act of giving birth to a calf
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Fresh: This is a cow that is in milk

A cow is one of the largest investments you will make on the
homestead. You can typically expect to pay over $1000 for a
cow that is fresh. Probably closer to $1500 if she has her calf
with her. Therefore, you really want to be prepared to care for
such a large investment.
If well cared for, a cow can serve your family for 15 years or
more. The old timers would often get 20 years of service from
a cow. The problem as she gets older, will be getting her bred.
SELECTING A BREED
There are several breeds that make good milk cows. Some people try to
find a good dual purpose breed. That way if your cow gives you a bull
calf, you can raise him up for meat. We have found that even typical
dairy breeds make fine meat. We have raised both Jersey and Holstein
calves. Both have stocked our freezers with healthy, delicious meat.
The only drawback, is that a dairy breed takes a bit longer to raise to full
weight on grass. Typically 18 months to 2 years.
Before you set your sights on a particular breed, it would be a good idea
to do a quick Craigslist search or ask around about what types of cows
are available in your area. Holsteins and Jersey cows are very common
in our area. It certainly keeps your start-up cost down if you can buy a
cow locally!
Here is a quick run down of common dairy breeds:
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MILK COW

COMMON MILK COWS

Holstein: The typical image of a milk cow. White with big black
markings. These are heavy milk producers, and are often used in
commercial dairies. They have large teets, and are easy to milk.
Holsteins have a very large frame. Their milk is not as rich or heavy
in cream.
Brown Swiss: These are beautiful cows, with a grayish brown color.
They are very resilient cows--strong and hardy. Their milk is also
high in butterfat and protein.
Guernsey: Guernsey are also beautiful cows...okay, all cows are
beautiful in my opinion! This cow is not very common, and may not
be as easy to come by. Their milk is golden in color due to it's high
content of beta-carotene.
Dexter: This is considered a good dual purpose breed. They are
ESUOHMRAF YADYREVE EHT

smaller and easy to handle. Their milk production is lower than a

true dairy breed. The milk fat is also lower than a Jersey, Guernsey
or a Brown Swiss, but not as low as a Holstein. They do however,
claim that they mostly produce A2 milk which is supposed to be
easier to digest.
Jersey: I saved what I consider to be the best for last. Ha! I don't
know if that is true, but we sure love our Jersey cows. This is the
only type of cow that we have experience with milking. Jersey cows
are easy to find in most areas. They are known for their gentle
nature and sweet brown eyes. Their milk is rich and creamy and
makes great butter, whipped cream and yogurt!

COW REQUIREMENTS--FOOD
To start with, cows require pasture with high quality grass. About 2
acres is required for one cow. Good grass will be her primary diet
through the Spring and Summer. You will need to consider where you
will source hay for the winter and the cost of that. A smallish cow
like a Jersey should eat about a small 50lb square bale of hay a day
through the fall and winter months. If she is in milk, she may need
more.
For a milking ration, you will need either a good non-GMO grain or
something like alfalfa pellets. We allow grain at milking, and this is
the best way to get your cow to behave.
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MILK COW

COW REQUIREMENTS--SHELTER
Depending on your location, shelter for winter may not be required for cattle.
However, a milk cow should be treated special. Also, you should be treated
special as well. Believe me, you don't want to milk out in a field during a rain
or snow storm! A simple shelter to duck into in order to get out of the wind,
makes all the difference. We have an old smallish barn that we use. On nice
days, it is possible to milk out in the field. Our cow will stand still with only a
bucket of feed. However, some cows require being tied or in a head lock in
order to stand still for milking.
COW REQUIREMENTS--FENCE
Believe it or not, fencing can be one of your largest farm expenses. Fence
doesn't just mean a perimeter fence to keep her in either. You will need to
really think and plan how you want to manage your cow. After she has her
calf, how will you separate them so that you can share milk with the calf? It
is also necessary to have separate areas if you have other cattle. It is no
fun to fight other cattle off when you have bucket of feed intended for your
ESUOHMRAF YADYREVE EHT

milk cow
A corral is also very nice to have for loading cattle. Whether you need to
make a trip to the vet, or maybe you need to take her somewhere to get
bred, a corral will make your loading life easier.
For our current set up, we have about half of our milk barn sectioned off with
cattle panels. We call the calf into the barn in the evening time, then lock
her in there away from mama for the whole night. Then we milk first thing in
the morning. After we milk, we let the calf back out to be with her mama for
the whole day.

MILK SHARING
We start part time separating when the calf is about three months old. Until
that point, we are able to milk at just about any time and there is enough
milk for us. Once the calf is bigger though, you must separate the calf from
the mother at least part of the day, otherwise there won't be milk for you!
By the time the calf is about 8 months old, she will be roughly the size of her
mother, and it will look absolutely ridiculous when she nurses. That is about
the time that we take her off of her mother permanently. The calf is old
enough to get her nutrition from grazing.
If you take your calf off of the mother sooner, and you want her to be grass
fed, you must supplement with milk replacer. Without mother's milk, grain,
or milk replacer, the calf will die. At 8 weeks, or even three months a calf's
digestive system is not mature enough for grass alone. They need extra
supplementation. 30
MILK COW

BREEDING A COW
In order for a cow to have milk, she must have a calf. In order for a cow to
have a calf, she must be bred. This is one area of having a milk cow that
takes the most planning. A cow should be at least 15 months old to breed
her. Ideally, a cow will calve once a year. Depending on your climate, a late
spring calf or an early fall calf are usually ideal. The grass is usually good at
those times for the mother, and it's not too cold for the calf.
This means you need to get her bred nine months before then. The
absolute easiest way to do this is to have a bull on site. First though, you
must weigh the pros and the cons of owning a bull. We have owned one in
the past, and don't really want to do it again. We keep Jersey cows, and
Jersey bulls have a reputation for suddenly turning mean. We have not
experienced that first hand, however, our bull was a fence jumper. That
doesn't usually please the neighbors!
Your other options are renting a bull or artificial insemination. We have
tried artificial insemination in the past. You must know your cow very well,
and you need to get someone there to inseminate her at just the right time
when she is in heat. We were never successful with this either.
For us the easiest way is to rent a bull. We found someone with a Jersey
bull and he was willing to rent him to us for a month or two. This usually
goes very well. To ensure that your cow is pregnant before returning the
bull, it is a good idea to have a vet check her.

CALVING
A cow carries her calf for nine months just like a human. There are certain
signs to look for prior to calving, you may notice some or all of the following.
1. An enlarged udder, we noticed this with our cow about two weeks before
she calved. Two days before she calved, her udder was enormous!
2. Loose or disappearing ligaments. This looks like their pin bones are
sticking up higher than usual, and their back end is lower.
3. Swollen vulva with or without discharge. This can happen weeks ahead
as well.
4. Loose stool--this one is tough to tell unless you are following her around,
and a cow's stool always looks a bit loose to me.
5. Change in appetite. This is listed as a possible sign, although again this
one would be hard to judge.

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MILK COW

Cows can calve in a field or a barn depending on the season. Ideally you
should plan for your cow to calve when the grass is at optimum nutrition,
and when it isn't terribly cold. For us that is a bit later in the spring or early
fall. Having a shelter for her to rest is nice, but you may find that she
doesn't use it and just goes out into the field. For that reason, keeping her
in a corral or some sort of pen is a good idea when you are pretty sure that
birth is imminent. This way it is easier to keep an eye on her and her calf for
the first week or so. Otherwise, she might just take off to the other side of
your property and you won't be able to observe what is going on. If you
miss your opportunity to pen her up, at least try to get her to come in
shortly after she calves. Then you can make sure she is eating and
drinking. A nice water with molasses in it will ensure she is drinking and
getting some extra nutrients.
A cow will typically eat the afterbirth, this is just fine, and probably good for
her. It is best to just let her do her thing, and intervene only if you suspect a
problem.
MANAGEMENT IS UP TO YOU
While this was a lot of information, it is really just scratching the surface.
Keeping a milk cow is a very big responsibility. There isn't really a once size
fits all plan either. We love to milk share with the calf because it frees us
up to be able to go places or to travel during that time. Not everyone likes
to fool with separating everyday. Some people like to separate them from
the beginning and then bottle feed the calf. Either way, you will have plenty
of work! Whether you separate early or whether you milk share, the time
will come when you may need to be away for an evening or longer. You will
find that you need someone to milk for you if you plan to be gone during a
time when you usually milk. This is where building a community with your
neighbors comes in. Be a person that is willing to help others, so that when
you need help, there are those around that are also willing to help you.

THINK LONG AND HARD

I hope this information has helped you to consider what goes into owning a
family milk cow. I didn't even get into the actual milking. When you buy a
cow, you are making a long term commitment to her. Leisurely mornings
come only after the chores are done, but that first cup of coffee with fresh
cream is much more enjoyable knowing that, doggone, I earned this!
Additionally, there is nothing quite like the quiet morning in the barn, with
the birds singing and the sweet smell of hay. It feels like a sacred time, and
the reward is so sweet!
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 HOW TO GET STARTED

BEEKEEPING
A BEGINNERS GUIDE

33
 BEEKEEPING

GNIPEEKEEB DETRATS TEG OT WOH

EMOH DETOOR S'EHS

Bees help pollinate, which helps plants grow.

Majority of our produce rel ies on pollinating in
order to grow healthy & nourishing food.

34
BEEKEEPING

BEEKEEPING FOR
BEGINNERS

Why should I add a bee hive to my backyard?

WE NEED BEES! Bees help pollinate, which helps plants
grow. Majority of our produce rely's on pollinating in order
to grow healthy & nourishing food.
EMOH DETOOR S'EHS

What is the difference between a hive box and colony?

A hive is the home or structure, while the colony
represents the bee's themselves.
Where should I locate my hive?
It's important to have early morning sun and afternoon
shade. Keep in mind if you live in a hotter climate shade is
necessary.
Be sure to keep your hive away from any busy roads or
traffic, Lots of traffic and dust will only agitate the bees,
making them defensive.
How often should I open my hive?
I recommend opening the hive every two weeks in the
beginning. Get familiar with the colony and searching for
the queen. Look for new wax cells forming, pollen, honey,
eggs, larva, brood, capped cells and gain confidence.
Do you have a video on how to add a colony of bees to a hive
box?
Yes, head over to this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkOANtlkaaU

35
BEEKEEPING

SUPPLIES

3 lbs Live bees, Queen included

Solid bottom board
10 Frame deep brood hive box
Inner cover
Telescoping flat hive top
EMOH DETOOR S'EHS

Smoker + pellets
Bee brush
Hive tool
Bee Suit
Gloves
Medium honey super complete with 10 frames(optional)
Queen excluder (optional)
Beetle jail (optional)
2-4 Cinder blocks or hive stand
Entrance feeder

Note: Most websites have a starter kit option. Which usually

includes the bottom board, 10 frame deep brood hive box,
inner cover, telescoping hive top, smoker, pellets, bee brush
and hive tool.
Suggestion: You may not need a hive suit, but I highly
recommend purchasing a veil!

36
BEEKEEPING

SETTING UP
YOUR HIVE

Plan out where your hive will be located.

Place 2 cinder blocks about 1/2 foot apart and for added
protection off the ground, where insects and rodents can
easily get in, add another layer of cinder blocks on top.
Place your bottom board on top of the cinder blocks and
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place your 10 frame deep brood box on top.

Then you will place your inner cover on top of the hive box
and the telescoping flat top, on top of that.
Most hive boxes come with a hive entrance. Which is a
thin piece of wood along the entrance, where the bees
will come and go. During the summer months use the
wider entrance to allow the bees to freely come and go as
they bring nectar into the hive. During the winter months
you'll want to use the smaller entrance. This will help
keep the warm air inside the hive.
Establish a water source for the colony. Bees need water
to hydrate and turn the collected nectar into honey. You
also don’t want them to search your neighborhood and
choose a pool, where they can drowned or a house that
uses strong pesticides.
Before you receive your colony of bees I recommend
doing a practice round. Using some pine needles, dried
sticks or weeds and your smoker pellets, start your
smoker. Open the hive box as if there was a colony of
bees inside and lift the frames. This will help calm your
nerves when you add your colony to the hive.

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BEEKEEPING

ADDING THE
COLONY TO
YOUR HIVE BOX
You'll receive your hive in a see-through small box
Have a sugar water mixture ready in a spray bottle.
Open the hive lid and remove 2-3 frames.
Spray the bees with a sugar water mixture to prevent
them from flying away.
EMOH DETOOR S'EHS

Remove the lid to the shipment of bees, but not

completely.
Bounce the bees down and remove the queen box, place
the lid back on top of the bees. Brush any bees on the
queen box down into the hive.
Remove the plug on the queens box and add a gummy
bear. The bees will eat at the gummy bear to get to the
queen. During this time they will bond and except her as
there new queen.
Attach the queens box to the top of one of the frames
inside the hive.
Spray and bounce the bees down again. Remove the lid
from the bees and turn over, dumping all the bees inside
of the hive box. You will want to bounce or knock the bees
into the hive, I wouldn’t shake them!
Spray the bees as you do this to prevent them from flying
away. After you’ve gotten majority of the bees out, you
can place the box they came in, by the hive entrance. The
remaining bees will likely find their way into the hive.
Make sure you have the smaller entrance door on your
hive, to prevent swarming.
Fill the hive box with as many frames as you can, without
squishing the bees. You can add the remaining frames in a
few days.
38
 DRY
INCUBATION
A GUIDE TO THE DRY INCUBATION METHOD

39
 DRY INCUBATION

WHAT IS DRY INCUBATION?

Dry incubation is as exactly as it sounds, incubating eggs
without water. Traditionally you would need to add water to
the incubator in order to keep the humidity around 50%-60%
during the first 18 days of incubation but with dry incubation
you do not add any water to the incubator until day 18, right
before the hatching process begins.
HOW IT WORKS
The Dry Incubation Method helps to ensure developing chicks
lose any excess moisture within the shell and develop adequate
air cells by keeping the humidity relatively low during the
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incubation process.
Developing chicks need to lose about 13% of the moisture
within their egg during development to allow for their air cell to
grow to the proper size. The air cell is very important to the
chick as it will pip into it to access oxygen needed for hatching.
The extra space gained by the loss of moisture also allows the
chick more movement within the egg which will aid in hatching.
The most common cause of low hatch rates is too high humidity
during incubation. If the humidity is too high during incubation
the egg will not lose the adequate amount of moisture causing
the air cell to remain small which can cause the chick to drown
within the egg during hatching.
Humidity is extremely important to the hatching process and it
is at this stage that water should be added into the incubator.
Raising the humidity right before the hatching process allows
the chick to more easily break through the egg membrane and
hatch out of the egg.
If water is not added and the humidity remains too low during
the hatching process and the membrane is allowed to dry out
then it could ultimately "shrink wrap" the chick preventing it
from hatching.
40
 DRY INCUBATION
ELYTSEFIL EREHWESLE

"In my experience, The Dry Incubation Method has lead to higher hatch
rates and a much easier incubation process." -S. Wynn

41
 DRY INCUBATION

1. PREPARING THE INCUBATOR

Preparing your incubator for a dry hatch is basically the same
as preparing for any other hatch. First, you will need to set up
your incubator and let the temperature stabilize around 99.5
degrees for at least 24 hours before adding your eggs. Add in
the automatic egg turner, if you have one. Remove the vent
plugs from the incubator. Removing the vent plugs helps to
reduce humidity and keep it constant.
2.SETTING THE EGGS
Once your incubator has reached the proper temperature, it
is time to add the eggs. Place the eggs into the egg turner
large end up. Eggs are placed large end up as the the air cell
develops on top "the large end" and the chick underneath, at
"the small end" of the egg.
It is recommended that fertilized eggs be stored at least 3
days before being set to prepare for incubation but fresh
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eggs can be set as well. Eggs should be set within 7-10 days
of being laid.
Chicks typically take 21 days to hatch, depending on the
breed. It is important to candle eggs on days 7, 14 and 18 to
monitor the development (or lack of development) of the
chick and air cell.
3.ADJUSTING HUMIDITY
When using the Dry Incubation Method do not add any water
to the incubator the first 18 days. Depending on your climate
the incubator should read somewhere between 20%-40% on
its own during that time. On day 19, you should add a
tablespoon of water at a time until your humidity stabilizes
between 65%-75%.
The key to a successful Dry Incubation hatch is to allow the
lower humidity of the incubation process to aid in the
development of the chicks during the first 18 days and the
increased humidity to aid the chicks in the hatching process
during the final 3 days.
Once hatched chicks should remain in the incubator for 24
hours or until completely dry then they can be moved into the
brooder. 42
Disclaimer: Keep in mind the humidity in the incubator is greatly affected by your climate.
 HOW TO GET STARTED

BROODING CHICKS
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT
RAISING BABY CHICKS

43
 BROODING CHICKS

AN OVERVIEW
Hi! I'm Rachel, the chicken lady behind Happy Dirt Life. When I
brought my first set of baby chicks home a few years ago, I never
knew it would start me down a journey to moving out of the city onto
a full-fledged farm.
There is something so empowering about growing your own food. And
raising chickens is one of the easiest ways to do this. A well-cared
for chicken flock will pay you back in beautiful, nutritious eggs for
your family for years.
Not only do chickens provide a self-sustainable food source, but if
managed well, can also serve as a lawn mower, yard fertilizer, and
entertainment to boot! You'll be amazed at how quickly these quirky
little birds will steal your heart.
Before getting started, it's important to consider the time and effort
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required to raise a flock. Brooding your chicks is the first step, and
you should plan to have them in the brooder from six to eight weeks,
or until they've feathered out sufficiently to transition outdoors.
After brooding your chickens, you'll need a coop of some sort to put
them outside. There are many options for this, from moveable coops
(my personal recommendation!) to stationary coops. A moveable
coop will save your yard, fertilize multiple areas, and you won't have
to clean out the coop all the time. It also ensures your chickens
always have new grass to graze on, keeping them healthy and happy.
If you choose a stationary coop, understand that the area it's in will
likely be scratched down to dirt and you will need to clean it out
regularly. The deep bedding method can decrease the need to clean
it out (to about twice a year) but there are several considerations
that go into that.
You can expect your laying hens to start producing eggs anywhere
from four to five months after hatching. During peak season, a
chicken will lay about one egg per day for six days out of the week.

44
 BROODING CHICKS

SOURCING CHICKS
When deciding where to get your baby chicks, you have several
options.
Feed Store

Your local feed store will likely have chicks for sale in the early spring
and early fall months. They will be able to talk to you about the
various breeds they have available and you can actually pick and
choose which chicks you want to take home. However, I encourage
you to verify where your feed store sources their chicks. Some
hatcheries are known to employ inhumane practices (especially with
male chicks) so it's important you consider this when sourcing.
By Mail

You can also source chicks from various hatcheries across the
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country by mail. The hatchery will pack up your chicks on the day or
day after they hatch, and ship them to you by Priority Mail to get
them to you quickly. The Post Office will call you when they arrive so
you can go pick them up (usually VERY early in the morning!).
My favorite source of beautiful eggs is Alchemist Farm. Not only do
they employ humane hatchery practices, but they are also 100% zero
waste. They supply gorgeous rare breeds with breathtaking eggs.
Local Farm

Another wonderful option is to find a local farm near you who hatches
chicks. This will give you the chance to meet your farmer face to
face and verify their hatching practices. Most local farms will also
allow you to swap out any roosters you end up with for more baby
chicks!

45
 BROODING CHICKS

THE BASICS
If a baby chick was reared by her mama hen, that hen would ensure
the chick stayed warm, found food and water, and generally thrived
under her wing. As you raise your own baby chicks, you will have to
step in and provide the essentials to your chicks just like a mama
hen.
There are eight essential categories that you will need to educate
yourself on to successfully raise baby chicks:
Housing
Bedding
Temperature
Light
Ventilation
Humidity
Feed
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Water
Each of these categories must be managed well to ensure your
babies thrive.

46
BROODING CHICKS

HOUSING
There are many factors that go into choosing how to set up your
brooder space.
What Kind of Container Can I Use?

Brooders can be set up multiple different ways! You can buy a cheap
Rubbermaid bin at the hardware store, use a leftover cardboard box,
build a box out of plywood, or block off the corner of the garage or
shed. Galvanized metal tubs or plastic kiddie pools also work well.
At first, you won't need to worry about chicks jumping out of
whatever container you use. But after a few weeks, they can hop
pretty high! To ensure you don't have any escapees, it's a good idea
to cover the brooder with some sort of mesh cover. We have used
sheets of hardware cloth attached to a few pieces of wood built to
the size of the brooder.
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Where Should I Set Up the Brooder?

A garage, bathroom, or shed are some of the best options for setting
up your brooder. You want to be sure the brooder is secure from the
elements, easy to control the temperature, and secure from
predators.
Rats and snakes can get in through small spaces and love to eat baby
chicks. So be sure that you secure any holes if you choose to brood
your chicks in a garage or shed. If you have pets, ensure you place
the chicks in a secure location where they won't be at risk.
How Much Space Do I Need?

Since you'll have your birds in the brooder until about six weeks, you'll
want to ensure you have at least 1 square foot of space per bird. At
first, they won't need quite this much space. But as they get bigger,
you'll quickly run out of room. The best thing to do is ensure you have a
container big enough to contain them through the six weeks, but
partition it off while they're tiny and expand it as they get bigger.

47
BROODING CHICKS

BEDDING
In addition to housing, you'll need to make sure you fill the bottom
with an appropriate bedding material. Bedding serves to soak up the
chicken poop and keep the little fluffs from sliding around.
What Are My Options for Bedding?

People use all sorts of things for bedding. The two tried and true
types of bedding are pine shavings and peat moss. Pine shavings are
generally the most accessible, and you can find them at any feed
store. Peat moss can be readily available in some areas as well, but it
is dustier than pine shavings, so this is not a great option if you are
brooding inside your home.
Straw is not a good option for bedding as it mats quickly because it
does not absorb moisture well. And whatever you do, do not use
newspaper. This can cause injuries in your chicks, as they can't find
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good footing.
Some people use sand successfully, but you must get a construction
grade sand, not fine sand, if you're going to use this method. You
also need to consider the fact that sand can get very warm (think hot
August beach burning your feet!) and it can take a long time to dry
out if it comes moist in the package. You'll want it completely dry
before putting chicks on it.
How Deep Should the Bedding Be?

Whatever bedding you choose should be filled in the brooder at least

four inches. The higher the bedding, the less often you will need to
change it out.
How Often Should I Change the Bedding?

Bedding should be changed as often as necessary to ensure that it

stays relatively dry and does not smell like ammonia. If you start to
smell ammonia or notice it is quite wet or damp, then it needs to be
changed. If you are not using the deep litter method, then you will need
to do this at least every few days. The bigger the chicks get, the more
often you will need to clean it out.
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BROODING CHICKS

BEDDING CONT.
The Deep Litter Method

With the deep litter method, you start with 8 inches of bedding (this
will only work with pine shavings or peat moss). As the chickens add
nitrogen to it (their poop), beneficial microbial organisms grow,
breaking down the bedding. As the chickens scratch and turn the
bedding, it continues to break down, composting itself.
Instead of cleaning out the bedding regularly, you simply add bedding
as needed to ensure the proper ratio of carbon to nitrogen is present,
and ensure it is being turned regularly. You may need to turn it
yourself in the corners or under areas where the chicks aren't
scratching enough.
What are the Benefits of the Deep Litter Method?
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First, you don't have to constantly completely change out your

bedding, which saves you time and money. Second, beneficial
microbial organisms will grow in the bedding as it breaks down. These
help keep your chicks healthy and give them something to scratch
around and eat as they grow. Third, composting bedding releases
warmth, providing an ambient heat source for your little fluffs!

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 BROODING CHICKS

TEMPERATURE
Maintaining a proper temperature for chicks can be a little
challenging at times, but with the right tools, you'll be a pro in no
time.
How Warm Do Chicks Need to Be?

Chicks will need access to 90 to 95 degrees Farenheit the first week.

The entire brooder does not need to be kept at this temperature, but
ensure there is at least one area where all the chicks can fit that is
this warm. Each week, you should decrease the heat by approximately
5 degrees.This allows the chicks to learn how to adjust their body
temperatures on their own, preparing them for the outdoors and
encouraging them to feather out.
What's the Best Heat Source?
EFIL TRID YPPAH

The cheapest, most available option is a standard heat lamp. You

can find these at any local feed store and they are very inexpensive.
You can easily adjust the temperature by raising and lowering the
lamp. Whatever you do, do not hang the lamp by the electrical cord!
This is a fire hazard. Instead, hang the lamp by a chain or rope.
If you use a heat lamp, I suggest hanging it at one end or corner of
the brooder to ensure the chicks have a place to escape the heat if
they get too hot.
Heat plates are also an option, but are on the pricier side. These
mimic a mother hen, allowing chicks to run in and out of them as they
need heat. They are also safer, as they do not pose the same fire risk
that a heat lamp does.
How Do I Monitor the Temperature?

Visual inspection is the easiest way to monitor chicks. If the chicks

are all huddled up under the heat lamp, then it is likely not warm
enough. If the chicks are spread out as far from the heat lamp as
possible, then it is too hot. What you want to see is a pretty even
distribution of the chicks around the brooder. See the diagram on the
next page.
50
 BROODING CHICKS

TEMP. CONT.

Too cold. Too hot Great! Investigate. Draft or

threat present.

I also highly suggest purchasing two inexpensive temperature

gauges. One you will want to place under or near the heat source and
one on the edge of the brooder. I like to hang one from a string/rope
to about the height of the chick nearest the heat lamp, and then one I
EFIL TRID YPPAH

will mount or hang on the edge of the brooder. If you're using a heat
plate, this is not as necessary, since you will not be raising and
lowering the heat lamp to adjust the temperature.

LIGHT
If you use a heat lamp, then it will provide a constant source of light
for your birds. However, I also encourage you to find a way to
introduce your chicks to natural sunlight. Natural sunlight stimulates
the pituitary gland and help the chick get used to days and nights. If
you have a room in your house with a window or a shed with a window,
this would be an ideal space for your brooder.
For our first batch of chicks, we set up a rubbermaid bin in a bathroom
that had a window in it. This allowed for natural sunlight to filter in
and also allowed us to add in ventilation as needed.

51
 BROODING CHICKS

VENTILATION
Proper ventiliations is also a concern for baby chicks. Drafts can
cause chicks to chill, so it is important to ensure they are located in
an area free from drafts.
But, it is also important to have enough ventilation to cycle clean air
in and out of the brooder. Baby chicks poop a LOT so ammonia can
build up quickly if there is not proper ventilation. Generally, a small
flock of chickens will remain ventilated enough if the brooder is open
on the top or covered with mesh. Avoid using any brooder covers
that are solid. This can lead to poor air quality and respiratory issues
in your birds.
EFIL TRID YPPAH

HUMIDITY
Humidity, like ventilation, must also be monitored. If the environment
is too humid, then it can cause respiratory issues with the chicks.
You can monitor the humidity level of the brooder by keeping an eye
on the bedding. If the bedding is relatively dry, then your humidity
levels should be fine.
If the bedding is very damp, then you may have a build up of humidity.
You can adjust the ventilation to ensure that humidity isn't building
up. Just make sure that you aren't causing any drafts that can chill
the chicks with the added ventilation.
52
 BROODING CHICKS

FEED
Starter feed is required for baby chicks, as it has a higher protein
content (around 20%) and gives them the extra nutrients they need
as their little bodies grow so quickly.
Some feed mills offer a starter/grower combination feed that will
work for your birds up until they are full grown. Laying chickens
generally can stay on starter feed until they're ready to transition to
layer feed once they're close to laying eggs at about 18 weeks.
Do I Need Medicated Feed?

We have never used medicated feed for our birds. Smart sourcing,
the deep litter method and magic water has kept our flocks free of
coccidiosis issues, which most medicated feeds attempt to prevent.
How Should I Feed My Birds?
EFIL TRID YPPAH

First the first few days, it is very important that the chicks have easy
access to feed and don't mistake the bedding for feed. Place down
pieces of paper sprinkled with feed throughout the brooder for the
first couple days.
Also offer a feeder or two with feed so they learn where it is and can
find it easily. Trough feeders without the top on them for the first
couple days are a good option to provide plenty of feeder space for
all the birds.
Once the birds have figured out where it is and how to eat from it, you
can place the top on it (with the little head holes in it) to help prevent
them from standing in it and pooping on it. (Although this will happen
to some level no matter what you do.)
Throw In Some Grass or Weeds!

Even baby chicks love to munch on grasses from the outdoors. Grab
a handful of leaves or grass from your backyard and watch the chicks
go crazy for it. Just be sure you have provided some grit if you do
offer grass. You can buy a small bag at the feed store and just
sprinkle it on top of their feed periodically to keep their gizzards
happy! 53
 BROODING CHICKS

WATER
Ensuring the baby chicks have adequate access to clean water from
the first few minutes they arrive is important. Depending on how
many birds you have, a simple quart sized mason jar will work on a
variety of different pans offered at your local feed store.
Consider Placing the Waterer on a Raised Surface

Because the chicks will kick up bedding, it can be helpful to place the
waterer on a board or two to raise it up slightly from the bedding.
While they will still manage to get bedding into it, this can decrease
it some.
Monitor the Wetness Beneath the Waterer

Sometimes the birds will splash enough water around their waterers
to create a wet spot. If this happens, just stir the bedding and add
EFIL TRID YPPAH

some bedding under the waterer. You want to be sure things don't
get too wet.
Boost Your Chicks with Magic Water

To give your chicks a boost upon arrival, put "Magic Water" in their
waterers for the first couple of days:
1 Quart of Warm Water
1 TB Apple Cider Vinegar
1/8 Cup of Honey
1/2 Garlic Clove Minced
Simply add all the ingredients into a quart sized water and mix well.
You can also use this recipe for any sick chicks (or chickens) to give
them a boost.
Give Your Chicks a Taste Upon Arrival

When your chicks arrive, dip each ones beak in the water. This will
make sure they return to it.

54
 BROODING CHICKS

LOSSES AND
OTHER ISSUES
Unfortunately, when dealing with any living creatures, there is always
the possibility of loss. If you purchase chicks upon hatch (either by
shipping or from a breeder), you should expect to lose 1-2% of your
chicks within the first one to four days after hatching due to issues
outside of your control.
If you continue to lose chicks beyond the first four days, this can
generally be attributed to brooder management problems. Take a
hard look at all of the considerations above to determine where you
might need to make adjustments.
Pasty Butt

It's also important to monitor each chick for a condition called "pasty
EFIL TRID YPPAH

butt" where a chick's vent gets clogged up with crusty droppings. If

this happens, you will need to run the chick's bottom under lukewarm
water to loosen up the stool. You can then carefully remove the
poop, being careful not to pull the down feathers out.
Once the chick has been cleaned, towel dry it carefully. Then blow dry
it on low to make sure it fluffs back up. An exposed wet vent can
invite pecking from other birds, so be sure to dry him off completely.
Pasty butt is common in commercial chicks. It can be caused by
travel stress for shipped chicks or overheating from a too hot
brooder.
Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis is a common parasite that affects many chicks. The

symptoms include bloody droppings, lethargy, loss of appetite, pale
skin color, failure to thrive. Many hatcheries will offer a vaccine for it
and you can purchase medicated feed to counteract it. (If you
purchase vaccinated chicks, do not use medicated feed). Maintaining
a clean brooder environment. employing the deep litter method, and
using magic water has been successful for our flocks in keeping this
parasite at bay without the need for vaccines or medicated feed.
55
 BROODING CHICKS

BEFORE ARRIVAL
Before your chicks arrive, be sure you have all the necessities
outlined above.
Set up the brooder and fill with bedding,
Turn on the heat source at least 24 hours before you receive your
chicks to ensure it's heating properly and the temperature is correct.
Monitor the heat during this time to ensure you don't encounter any
major fluctuations throughout the day.
This will also give you the opportunity to troubleshoot any issues you
may encounter with your brooder set up.
Ensure you have extra bedding on hand and adequate feed.
Then get those chicks in their brooder and on their way to laying you
EFIL TRID YPPAH

fresh eggs!

I hope this guide gives you the confidence you need to

start raising chickens and live a more sustainable life.
Enjoy friend!
56
 REAL WORLD CONSIDERATIONS WHEN

BUYING PROPERTY
FOR THE MODERN HOMESTEADER

57
 BUYING
PROPERTY
Many homesteads are passed down over generations. But what if you,
like us, weren't blessed with acres and acres of property? We wrestled
with this issue just over one year ago, and we're here to help.
GNIDAETSDOOG

Just as every family unit is different and unique, each property will be as well.
Take time to consider your goals and plan ahead. After all, the homesteading
life should be one to serve us and our family for generations to come!

58
BUYING PROPERTY

GETTING STARTED:
FROM THE GROUND UP

Purchasing your first piece of land, no matter the

size, can be very intimidating. We understand!
We were right there just one year ago.

10 Essential Considerations When Buying a Homestead

I. KNOW THY BUDGET

GNIDAETSDOOG

Don't purchase property that would be a burden on your family and

cause you not to thrive. If you are unable to find land in your
budget, give yourself time. Knowing your budget also means
knowing what you'll need to support the land you're purchasing.
Expect to spend over $500 on a good chainsaw, and anywhere
between $5,000 and $50,000 on a tractor and implements. And be
honest with yourself here, you don't want to underbuy on these
investments. Bottom line; consider the total cost of ownership.

II. QUESTION THE CONNECTION

We may not all like it, but internet access has become a necessity.
Be sure you know the local service providers, and what level of
service you require. For our homestead, satellite internet was not
an option. Although it's more rare, you can find rural areas that
have fiber networks.

III. WATER WORKS

Water is an essential part of life. This is true for us, our land, and
our future crops and livestock. Look for springs, streams, even
older-style bored wells for sources of water. But also be aware of
the watershed and how it could impact your plans. If you can, I
recommend to go out when it's raining. It's critical to know how
your property handles large amounts precipitation. It would be a
bummer to find your beautiful parcel becoming a lake unexpectedly.
There might be a story behind this one...

59
BUYING PROPERTY

VI. AXES FOR TAXES

Check public records for the property taxes on a parcel.
You may find that moving into a neighboring county can
have a significant impact on the tax burden. Forestry,
agriculture, and other conservation incentives can also
have a significant impact. Talk to your local extension
office to get more information.

V. MAKING GOOD FRIENDS

The folks at your local extension office are going to be a
wealth of information. They are going to be aware of local
regulations, regional issues, and other very useful bits of
information. Talk to them about your plans, and hear them
out. You may not see 100% eye to eye, but that's ok.
Don't abandon good resources or miss out on making
good friends.
GNIDAETSDOOG

VI. ACCESS AND AMENITIES

You might be okay being an hour away from the closest
mega box store, but you should consider what you want
closer. We'd recommend checking the distance to the
nearest gas station with off-road (non-taxed) diesel,
hospital or urgent care, tractor dealership, feed and seed
or hardware stores, mechanic, farmers markets, etc.

VII. USEFUL UTILITIES

Plain and simple, utilities are expensive. If you don’t
already have power on site, you definitely want to
investigate the local power company and their
requirements for getting power onto the property. Some
will run power to a well for no cost, others will charge
thousands. This could be a real deal breaker. Once power
is available, water becomes the next priority. A well is
fantastic asset, but the cost of drilling wells varies by
location. Check with a local company to get a quote if
you're in need of adding a well to be sure you have an
idea of the total upfront cost. Getting started from scratch
is a romantic idea, but it's a ton of work. Be honest with
yourself about what you can do, and where you want your
starting point to be.

60
BUYING PROPERTY

VIII. EVALUATE THE INFRASTRUCTURE

Continuing with the idea of a good starting point, be on
the lookout for usable infrastructure. Is there a home on
the property? Barns, sheds, and other outbuildings? Are
there roads, and if so, what are their condition and who
maintains them? Is the land fenced? This topic has so
many ways it could go, but the more usable buildings you
have up front, the faster you can get off the ground.

IX. FINANCING FACTS

When purchasing our homestead, we were concerned that
it was going to be impossible to get a loan on acreage that
had ramshackle buildings and trash everywhere. As it
turns out, there are financial institutions dedicated to farm
and agriculture, and in our experience, we definitely have
to recommend you give them a look. Where we would
definitely not qualify a traditional mortgage, we were
GNIDAETSDOOG

offered reasonable rates for 15 and 20 year loans on the

land itself. Be prepared though, you'll likely need to bring
a substantial down payment, and you can expect higher
interest rates, but this comes with the territory as the risk
is higher for these types of loans. If you can, find a local
branch and build a relationship with the agents in your
area. It'll go a long way.

X. DON'T FORGET THE WHY

Big ideas lead to big steps. After a few shaky steps, it's
easy to drift away from the original goal. Do yourself a
favor and don't forget why you started. In the middle of
setbacks and discouragement, stay strong. Hang on tight
to those core values, and have fun along the way.

We're here for you.

goodsteading.com 61
@goodsteading
 HOMESTEAD LIVING

GRASSFED BEEF
RAISE YOUR OWN HOMEGROWN BEEF

62
GRASSFED BEEF

PASTURE RAISED
There is security in knowing where your beef comes from, even
more so when you’ve raised it yourself. Raising your own beef
cattle is a rewarding experience. You can ensure the health and
well-being of the animal, which directly translates into the
quality of meat you will harvest.
LIART WOC A NWOD

BEEF BREEDS
When first looking at raising your own beef cow, there are
many options for beef breeds. There are cattle bred
specifically for dairy production and cattle bred for beef
production. You can also find breeds that are multi-purpose
and can provide you with both quality milk and meat, just not at
the same volume as cattle bred specifically for either purpose.
Angus is probably the name most synonymous with beef.
Hereford, Charolais, Gelbvieh, Simental, all are other well
known beef production breeds. With all that said, dairy breeds,
such as Jersey or Guernsey, also make a great lean beef, but
will have a smaller carcass.

63
GRASSFED BEEF

SELECTING YOUR CALF

Depending on how ‘hands-on’ you want to be with your beef
animal, you can either go the bottle calf route or find an older
calf that has been weaned. A bottle calf will be your least
expensive option, but you will have the expense of milk replacer
and the time investment of bottle feeding the calf. Your other
option is buying a calf that has been weaned. If weaned too
early, the calf’s growth may be stunted, so make sure it is at
least 6 months old when it’s weaned.
There are many options for where to source your beef calf. From
the local sale barn, buying one privately from a local farm or
ranch, or even the local fair, you’re sure to find one in your area.
Calf prices depend on your area, cattle markets, and quality of
the calf you’re buying. Expect to pay anywhere from $250-$400
LIART WOC A NWOD

for a bottle calf.

If you decide that you want to keep a calf for beef every year,
keeping a cow and breeding her yearly might be your best option.
Breeding a cow to calve in the spring, raise her calf on milk, and
butcher the calf in the fall will provide continuous beef for your
family. The extra expense involved with this option is breeding
and feeding the cow over winter, but you will not be purchasing a
new calf every year.

64
GRASSFED BEEF

FACILITIES
There comes a time in every livestock owner’s life where
restraining an animal is absolutely necessary. The best and safest
way to restrain cattle is with a chute, or at the minimum a head
catch. There are many suppliers and options available. You can
purchase a pre-made steel head catch or build your own. Having a
secure spot ready to catch your cow will make your life so much
easier in the case of an injury and keep everyone safer in the
process (and your vet will thank you!)
Beef cattle are hardy and can endure the elements as long as
they can get out of cold wind by using a ‘shelter belt’ or row of
trees. If you are starting with a small calf, providing a shelter it
can tuck into during wind, rain, or snow will help it stay healthy
and avoid stress induced sickness.
LIART WOC A NWOD

FENCING
Fencing for cattle does not need to be elaborate. A simple (yet
tight) 3-strand barbed wire fence will work just fine. One
consideration you need to make is location. Will your cattle be
adjacent to a busy road? If so, you may need a 4-wire fence, or
welded wire fence, for extra security. No one wants a call that
their cows are out on the road!
An additional smaller pen, perhaps where you have your head
catch, would be beneficial, especially if you need to separate
your cow from other animals. If you have enough acres to rotate
your cattle, you may consider fencing out several smaller
pastures to rotate your cows through and give each pasture a
rest. ‘Rotational Grazing’ is a great pasture management method.

65
 “This lifestyle isn't just about animals. It's about beliefs and
values passed down through generations. Ensuring things are
left better for those yet to come. It’s all about the legacy”
-Unknown
LIART WOC A NWOD

66
GRASSFED BEEF

FEED & NUTRITION

Feed requirements for cattle vary depending on your geographic
location. Your type and quality of pasture grass determines how
much you need to supplement with feed and minerals.
Forage testing can determine the nutritional value of your
pasture grass. Simply send in a sample of your pasture grass
and you will have a much better understanding of how to
supplement your cattle.
LIART WOC A NWOD

For our Sandhills pastures, we estimate 12 acres per cow to

graze during the 5 month summer season. If you have
lush,irrigated pasture, 1.5-2 acres should be sufficient for a
calf or cow/calf pair.
During the winter, we graze the regrowth on the meadows as
weather permits, and feed back native prairie hay that we put
up as the snow becomes deeper, and the cows get closer to
calving. We also supplement with a range cube for added
protein and energy. If you plan on keeping a beef cow through
the winter, you need to plan for winter feed if you are in a zone
where the grass doesn’t grow year round.

67
GRASSFED BEEF

MINERAL
Cattle, just like humans, require minerals and salt in their diets.
We like to feed loose salt and mineral free-choice. This means
that the cattle can access it whenever they choose. The mineral
and salt are checked every 3-4 days to make sure that they have
a constant supply andalso to make sure that the cattle are
actually eating it.
You can also purchase salt and mineral blocks for free-choice
feeding. A salt and mineral deficiency in cattle can cause poor
health, so make sure you provide these two supplements on a
regular basis.
LIART WOC A NWOD

WATER
An adult cow can drink 1-2 gallons of water per 100 lbs of body
weight per day. Some can drink up to 30+ gallons a day! If a cow’s
water intake is limited, its forage intake also decreases.
Hydration is key!
If you divide up and rotate your pastures, you could have one
central water tank to service all pastures, otherwise you need to
make sure you have a way of providing water wherever your cattle
are.

68
GRASSFED BEEF

FINISHING
Grassfed cattle can be grain finished or grass finished. Grain
finishing adds extra fat, or marbling, to the meat, whereas grassfed
finishing keeps in tune with a more organic, natural meat with less
marbling. Whichever way you choose, you’ll need to consider the
extra cost/benefits of a larger carcass with grain finished vs the
smaller carcass weight of grass finished.
PROCESSING
Planning ahead is key when preparing to butcher your animal. Many
butcher shops are booked out several weeks, and sometimes
months, in advance. Call ahead and get on their books.
You will need to deliver your steer/heifer to the butcher, so you will
need access to a trailer.
LIART WOC A NWOD

AGING
When it comes time to have your animal butchered, you can usually
request how long you want your beef to hang. This is the aging
process. 14 days of aging is typical for our area. It is particularly
important if you grass finished your beef to have the butcher age
your beef 14-21 days.
BEEF CUTS
You can select certain beef cuts. One thing to make note of is that
several beef cuts can come from the same area, so educate yourself
on the different cuts of beef you can get from one cow. It is the best
feeling filling your freezer with beef from an animal that lived a
healthy life and was well cared for.

69
 HOMESTEAD LIVING

GARDEN TRUG
SIMPLE DIY TUTORIAL

70
DIY GARDEN TRUG

WHAT IS A
GARDEN TRUG?

A Garden Trug, or harvest basket, is a useful tool for

every gardener, and one you will most likely use every
day.
A Garden Trug is used to collect your harvest. While
traditionally made with bent strips of wood to form the
LIART WOC A NWOD

basket, we will be taking this concept and updating it by

using wire ‘hardware cloth.’
When collecting your produce with this trug, you can
rinse the soil off outside before bringing it in the house.
This basket will quickly become one of the most used
tools in your garden and you’ll wonder how you ever did
without! And you’ll find that it has more uses than just in
the garden! Use it to collect eggs, carry gardening
supplies, or become part of your household decor in the
off-season!
The process for constructing your own Garden Trug is
very straightforward and requires only basic tools,
supplies, and woodworking knowledge.

71
DIY GARDEN TRUG

SUPPLY + CUT LIST

Using what you have on hand really makes this Garden

Trug an efficient project. The one supply I purchased
was the cedar for the end pieces, everything else I had
on hand. Since this Garden Trug will be used
occasionally to rinse produce, cedar is a great option
for its resistance to rot.
The hardware cloth can be regular or plastic coated. I
used a piece of regular hardware cloth I had leftover
from my chicken coop build.
LIART WOC A NWOD

Supply list:
1x8” x 2’ cedar plank
48"x3/4”x3/4” cedar garden stake
20x23” - 1/2” Hardware cloth (you can purchase plastic
coated hardware cloth if you prefer)
Rope (I used old lariat rope that we had on hand)
1" Finishing Nails x4
Wood Glue
Chop/Miter Saw
Jig Saw
Drill
Staple Gun
Tin Snips
Nail Set (optional)
Cut list:
2 End Pieces: 1"x8"x12” Cedar Plank
2 Side Supports: 3/4"x3/4"x20” Cedar Garden Stake

72
DIY GARDEN TRUG

THE PROCESS

Cut the 12” Cedar Use a round object to Draw the corner
pieces with your draw the rounded cutout for the side
chop saw. corners (I used a braces.
terra cotta pot base).
LIART WOC A NWOD

Clamp the Cedar to Use a jigsaw to cut Using a fine-grit

your work table. Use out the round corner sandpaper, gently
a scrap piece of shape and the cutout sand all surfaces of
wood under your where the side the wood taking off
clamp so you don’t braces will sit. any splinters, rough
mar your finished spots, or sharp
piece. edges.

Drill pilot holes in Sand again to make Now it’s time to

the side braces all joints flush. seal your wood. I
using a drill bit (I used coconut oil to
used 3/32). Add keep my wood ‘food
wood glue and nail safe’. Use a cotton
side braces onto end cloth and rub in the
pieces. Use a 'nail coconut oil. Wipe
set' to tap the nail off any excess oil.
flush with the wood. 73
DIY GARDEN TRUG

Measure and mark Cut the hardware Staple the wire

1” from top and 2.5” cloth to size. around the edges.
from the side. Drill Wearing gloves
the holes for the during this part is a
rope handles using a wise choice!
bit the same
diameter as your
rope. Smooth the
edges with sand
paper.
LIART WOC A NWOD

Cut both pieces of You can carefully Fill up with produce

rope for the handles use a flame to singe and enjoy your new
to 35” and pull any frayed ends. harvest basket!
through the holes.
I unraveled the rope
at the ends and tied
it off.

YOUR GARDEN TRUG IS COMPLETE!

74
 HOMESTEAD LIVING

KOOBE GNIVIL DAETSEMOH

OT EDIUG SRENNIGEB A

Contributors: Tara of She's Rooted Home,Alexa of The

Duvall Homestead, Sylvie Manderstrom, Mikayla of
Herrmann Homeste ad, Krista of Harvest Hill Farms, Jenn
of The Everyday Farmhouse, Shawna of Southeasterly
Farms, Tiffany of Down A Cow Trail, Tiffany of Good
Steading Farm, and Rachel of Happy Dirt Life