Owners Workshop Manual

Honda
V45/65 Sabre &
Magna {VF700, 750
& 1100 V-Fours)
Owners
Workshop
Manual
by Penny Cox
and John H. Haynes
Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:
Honda V45 700/750 Sabre. US 1982 through 1985 1
Honda VF750S-C Sport. UK 1982 through 1984
Honda V45 700/750 Magna. US 1982 through 1988
Honda VF750C-H and C-J Custom. UK 1987 through 1988 2
Honda V65 11 00 Sabre. US 1984 through 1985
Honda V65 11 00 Magna. US 1983 through 1986
3
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(1081- 820) FGHU
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MTC 5

6
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford Nr Yeovil
7
Somerset BA22 7 JJ England
Haynes North America, Inc 8
861 Lawrence Drive
Newbury Park
California 91320 USA
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~ Contents
Introductory pages '.:~·
About this manual 0-6
Introduction to the Honda V45/65 Sabre
& Magna (VP700, 750 & 1100 V-Fours) 0-6
Identification numbers 0"7
Buying parts oc8
General specifications - 0-9
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities ' 0-10
Safety first! 0-16
Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants 0-17
Troubleshooting 0-18

Chapter 1
Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-1

Chapter 2
Engine, clutch and transmission 2-1 2

Chapter 3
Cooling system 3-1 3
Chapter4
Fuel and exhaust systems 4-1

Chapter 5 "~ ....., .., "-I

Ignition system
~
. - - .., 5-1

Chapter 6
Frame, suspension and final drive 6-1 6
Chapter 7
Brakes, wheels and tires 7-1 7
ChapterS
Electrical system 8-1 8

Conversion factors

Index IND-1
0-4 Honda V45/65 Sabre & Magna (VF700, 750 & 1100 V-Fours)

The 1982 V45 Sabre (VF750S)

The 1984 V65 Sabre (VF1100S)

Honda V45/65 Sabre & Magna (VF700, 750 & 1100 V-Fours) 0-5

The 1982 V45 Magna (VF750C)

The 1984 V65 Magna (VF1100C)

0-6

About this manual

Its purpose At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to
The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The
your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent
what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means
dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that
procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers Section.
diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated.
We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For When it's necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be
many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without
appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to use of the word 'Chapter' apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the
leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved same Chapter. For example, 'see Section 8' means in the same
by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its Chapter.
labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are
and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself. sitting on the seat, facing forward.
Motorcycle manufacturers continually make changes to specifi-
Using the manual cations and recommendations, and these, when notified, are
The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.
numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care,
lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs or neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any
steps. errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE
A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to
understand.

CAUTION
A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the
Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.
WARNING
A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the
Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Honda V45/65 Sabre &

Magna (VF700, 750 & 1100 V-Fours)
The first Honda V-Four engine, introduced in 1982 in a 750 cc (45 An 1100 cc (65 cu in) engine was introduced in 1983 for the US market.
cu in) capacity, was widely regarded as a milestone of motorcycle There are two distinctly different models, the Sabre (known as the
engineering. Its 90° V configuration allowed for a lighter engine which Sport in the UK) and the Magna (known as the Custom in the UK). The
was more compact, yet more powerful than any previous Honda 750 cc Sabre differs from the Magna in having Honda's Pro-Link rear
engine. Because of the inherent balancing characteristics of a V- suspension and sophisticated electronic instrumentation. Conversely,
engine, as well as the rubber mountings, it is also an unusually smooth Magna models are custom-styled, with high handlebars, teardrop tank
and quiet engine compared with the more conventional in-line, air- and a stepped seat. The Magnas have conventional twin-shock rear
cooled counterparts in production at the time. suspension.
The 750 cc engine was superceded in 1984 by a shorter-stroke Both Sabre and Magna have appeared in 700, 750 and 1100 cc
700 cc model, designed to fall below the heavyweight motorcycle engine sizes during the model run, and have received a number of
import tariff imposed on machines imported into the US. The 700 cc improvements and modifications. Owners are therefore advised to refer
engine continued for the remaining years of the Sabre, but a return to the table under 'Identification numbers' to establish the exact model
was made to the 750 cc unit in 1988 for the last year of the Magna's year of their machine before carrying out any of the procedures given in
production. All models imported into the UK were of 750 cc capacity. the main text of the manual.
 0-7

Identification numbers
The frame serial number is stamped into the right side of the
steering head and the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) appears
on the left side of the steering head; on 1987 and 1988 700/750
Magna models, it is attached to the right frame top tube under the
fuel tank. The engine number is stamped into the right upper side
of the crankcase, directly above the clutch unit.
A label attached to the right or left frame tube under the side
cover, or attached to the rear fender top surface under the seat,
gives the color code of the machine. The carburetor identification
number appears on the carburetor body casting, just above the
float chamber joint. Emission control information (US models only)
is given on a label attached to the right lower frame tube on models
through 1986, or to the right upper frame tube on later models.
All serial numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place
so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of
a theft.
The frame serial number, engine serial number, carburetor
identification number and color code should also be kept in a
handy place (such as with your driver's license) so they are always
available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine.
The procedures in this manual identify the bikes by production
year. If this is not known, it can be determined from the engine and Frame number location on steering head right side
frame serial numbers as shown in the chart on the next page.

Engine number location on crankcase top surface Emission Control label location (models through 1986)
0-8 Identification numbers

Engine number Frame number

US models (except California)

VF750S (1982) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-2000066 to 2015996 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC070-CM000036 to 012083
VF750S (1983) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-2100018 to 2115544 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC070-DM100006 to 108632
VF700S (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC22E-2000008 to 2005978 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC220-EM000007 to 005012
VF700S (1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC22E-2100001 to 2103668 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC220-FM100001 to 102800
VF750C (1982) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-4000046 to 4029232 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC071-CM000033 to 027062
VF750C (1983) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-4100013 to 4124548 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC071-DM100011 to 122819
VF700C (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2000021 to 2016382 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC210-EM000002 to 014552
VF700C (1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2100016 to 2110238 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC210-FM100006 to 108900
VF700C (1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2200005 to 2209873 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC210-GM200003 to 208928
VF700C (1987) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2300015 to 2304999 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC210-HM300007 to 303508
or HA305001 to 310415
VF750C (1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-4600001 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC280-JA100001 on
VF1100S (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC17E-2000001 to 2008727 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC170-EM000001 to 010029
VF1100S (1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC17E-2100001 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC170-FA100001 on
VF1100C (1983) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC12E-2000039 to 2018597 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC120-DM000029 to 017677
VF1100C (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC12E-2100001 to 2116075 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC120-EA100001 to 117064
VF1100C (1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC12E-2200001 to 2208055 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC120-FA200006 to 208465
VF1100C (1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC12E-2300020 to 2304336 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC120-GM300101 to 304425

US California models
VF750S (1982). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above
VF750S (1983). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above
VF700S (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC22E-2002575 to 2006097 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC221-EM000006 to 001081
VF700S (1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC22E-2100001 to 2103285 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC221-FM100001 to 100863
VF750C (1982) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above
VF750C (1983) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above
VF700C (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2000019 to 2018662 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC211-EM000003 to 002300
VF700C(1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2100022 to 2108674 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC211-FM100007 to 101325
VF700C (1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2200011 to 2210193 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC211-GM200001 to 201250
VF700C(1987) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC21E-2300020 to 2303889 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC211-HM300006 to 300514
or HA305003to311015
VF750C (1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-4600001 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC281-JA100001 on
VF1100S (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC17E-2000001 to 2009087 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC170-EA100004 to 117067
VF1100S (1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC17E-2100001 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC170-FA100001 on
VF1100C (1983) ... .... ..... .... ...... .. As above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As above
VF1100C (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC12E-2102298 to 2114635 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC120-EA100004 to 117067
VF1100C (1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC12E-2200001 to 2206580 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC120-FA200001 to 206845
VF1100C (1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC12E-2300001 to 2302532 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SC120-GM301306 to 302625

UK models
VF750S-C (1982-84) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-2007411 to 2020350 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07-2000034 to 2008149
VF750C-H (1987) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-4501116 to 4501315 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC28-2000607 to 2000806
VF750C-J (1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC07E-4604226 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RC28-2100005 on
Note: Unless specifically mentioned in this manual, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Buying parts
Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them for motorcycle, the accessory dealer is usually limited to normal high wear
reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets,
specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have major
components on the machine), providing the ID numbers is the only way to suspension components, cylinders, transmission gears, or cases.
be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but
Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct you can't always be sure of what you're getting. Once again, take your
comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker) for direct comparison.
the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal
part can end up with the wrong number or be listed incorrectly. directly with someone who specializes in parts for your particular make.
The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle - the
accessory store and the franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts they
carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your
 0-9
General specifications
Wheelbase
1982 750 Sabre model....................................................................... 1562 mm (61.5 in)
1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabre models ....................................... 1570 mm (61.8 in)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 1540 mm (60.6 in)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 1565 mm (61.6 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 1660 mm (65.4 in)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 1590 mm (62.6 in)
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 1595 mm (62.8 in)
Overall length
700/750 Sabre models....................................................................... 2245 mm (88.4 in)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 2190 mm (86.2 in)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 2220 mm (87.4 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 2360 mm (92.9 in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 2280 mm (89.8 in)
Overall width
1982 through 1984 700/750 Sabre models ....................................... 830 mm (32.7 in)
1985 700 Sabre model....................................................................... 800 mm (31.5 in)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 815 mm (32.1 in)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 850 mm (33.5 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 800 mm (31.5 in)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 790 mm (31.1 in)
1983 and 1986 1100 Magna models.................................................. 810 mm (31.9 in)
1984 and 1985 1100 Magna models.................................................. 825 mm (32.5 in)
Overall height
1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models..................................................... 1165 mm (45.9 in)
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models..................................................... 1160 mm (45.7 in)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 1195 mm (47.0 in)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 1200 mm (47.2 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 1155 mm (43.9 in)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 1185 mm (46.7 in)
1983 and 1986 1100 Magna models.................................................. 1210 mm (47.6 in)
1984 and 1985 1100 Magna models.................................................. 1230 mm (48.4 in)
Seat height
1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models..................................................... 780 mm (30.7 in)
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models..................................................... 790 mm (31.1 in)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 760 mm (29.9 in)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 740 mm (29.1 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 705 mm (27.8 in)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 820 mm (32.3 in)
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 800 mm (31.5 in)
Ground clearance
1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models..................................................... 135mm (5.3 in)
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models..................................................... 145 mm (5.7 in)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 165 mm (6.5 in)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 150 mm (5.9 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 152 mm (6.0 in)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 145 mm (5.7 in)
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 155 mm (6.1 in)
Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)
700/750 models ................................................................................. Approx 243 kg (535 Ib)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 268 kg (591 Ib)
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 265 kg (584 lb)
0-10

Maintenance techniques,
tools and working facilities
Basic maintenance techniques helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before
removal.
There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and
When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their
repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of
locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the
these techniques will enable the amateur mechanic to be more
washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and
efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks
bolts can't be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in
properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.
a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin
Fastening systems tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and
nuts from a particular area (i.e. engine case bolts, valve cover bolts,
Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts and screws used to hold two
engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when
or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when
working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetors
working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some
and the valve train). The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to
type (either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive). All
identify the contents.
threaded fasteners should be clean, straight, have undamaged threads
Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated,
and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits.
it's a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of
Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new
masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.
ones.
Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating oil to Gasket sealing surfaces
ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine Throughout any motorcycle, gaskets are used to seal the mating
in a spout type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust surfaces between components and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or
penetrant, let it -work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut pressure contained in an assembly.
or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled off or removed Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type
with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure
If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they
removed with a special tool called an E-Z out (or screw extractor). are very difficult to separate. In most cases, the part can be loosened
Most dealer service departments and motorcycle repair shops can by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A
perform this task, as well as others (such as the repair of threaded regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the
holes that have been stripped out). hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could
Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck
should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged to make sure that every fastener has been removed.
washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart components, as they
washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts (which must
metal or plastic. Special locknuts can only be used once or twice remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use a piece of wood,
before they lose their locking ability and must be replaced. but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the wood
splinters.
Tightening sequences and procedures
After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully
When threaded fasteners are tightened, they are often tightened scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material
to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Over- can be soaked with a gasket remover (available in aerosol cans) to
tightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned
under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Each bolt, from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end.
depending on the material it's made of, the diameter of its shank and Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces
the material it is threaded into, has a specific torque value, which is to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some
noted in the Specifications. Be sure to follow the torque recommen- gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the
dations closely. method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for
Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, engine some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick
case bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the
warping the component. Initially, the bolts/nuts should go on finger tight components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying)
only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross gasket sealer is best.
or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn,
return to the first one tightened and tighten them all one half turn, Hose removal tips
following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one quarter Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal
turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose
torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners the procedure would be mates against or the connection may leak. Because of various
reversed. chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal
spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose
Disassembly sequence clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip joint pliers, grab the
Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and
help ensure that the parts go back together properly during forth until it is completely free, then pull it off (silicone or other lubricants
reassembly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the
removed. Take note of special characteristics or marks on parts that outside of the spigot). Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose
can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.
on a shaft). It's a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Also, do
clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be not reuse hoses that are cracked, split or torn.
 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-11

Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set

Control cable pressure luber Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Tools
A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who
plans to maintain and repair a motorcycle. For the owner who has few
tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared
to the spiraling costs of routine maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.
To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the
tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered:
Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The
newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance
and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs. Then,
as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult
tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic
kit will be built into the Repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of
time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete
enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from
the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the
frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required
for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair
work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end
Torque wrenches (left - click type; right - beam type)
0-12 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Snap-ring pliers (top - external; bottom - internal) Alien wrenches (left) and Alien head sockets (right)

Valve spring compressor Piston ring removal/installation tool

Piston pin puller Telescoping gauges

 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-13

0-to 1-inch micrometer Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder compression gauge Dial indicator set

Multimeter (volt/ohm/ammeter) Adjustable spanner

0-14 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

and open end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than to the public, as well as some special tools produced by the vehicle
open-ended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. As a result,
Combination wrench set (6 mm to 22 mm) references to the manufacturer's special tools are occasionally included
Adjustable wrench - 8 in in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the
Spark plug socket (with rubber insert) job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no
Spark plug gap adjusting tool alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool can't be
Feeler gauge set purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer
Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in) service department or a motorcycle repair shop.
Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 in) Valve spring compressor
Alien (hex) wrench set (4 mm to 12 mm) Piston ring removal and installation tool
Combination (slip-joint) pliers - 6 in Piston pin puller
Hacksaw and assortment of blades Telescoping gauges
Tire pressure gauge Micrometers) and/or dial/Vernier calipers
Control cable pressure luber Cylinder surfacing hone
Grease gun Cylinder compression gauge
Oil can Dial indicator set
Fine emery cloth Multimeter
Wire brush Adjustable spanner
Hand impact screwdriver and bits Manometer or vacuum gauge set
Funnel (medium size) Small air compressor with blow gun and tire chuck
Safety goggles
Drain pan Buying tools
Work light with extension cord For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in
motorcycle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options
Repair and overhaul tool set available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the
These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is
repairs and are intended to supplement those in the Maintenance and satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would
minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large
though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings
when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the over the individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As
3/8 inch drive over the 1/2 inch drive for general motorcycle additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger
maintenance and repair (ideally, the mechanic would have a 3/8 inch tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool
drive set and a 1/2 inch drive set). set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer
Alternator rotor removal tool period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only
Socket set(s) those tools that will actually be used.
Reversible ratchet Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source of
Extension - 6 in some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where
Universal joint tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying
Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) screwdrivers and sockets) because they won't last very long. There are
Ball pein hammer - 8oz plenty of tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase
Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber) items which meet the relevant national safety standards. The expense
Standard screwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in) involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the
Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16 in) initial cost of quality tools.
Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 in) It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here.
Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a
Pliers - locking book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual (Book no. 1454)
Pliers - lineman's available from the publishers of this manual. It also provides an
Pliers - needle nose introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a
Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle.
Cold chisel - 1/2 in
Scriber Care and maintenance of tools
Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with
Center punch respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them
Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16 in) properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal
Steel rule/straightedge - 12 in chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the
Pin-type spanner wrench work area.
A selection of files Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets,
Wire brush (large) can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while
others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments,
Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck
gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they can't be
capacity of 3/8 inch (and a set of good quality drill bits).
damaged by weather or impact from other tools.
Special tools When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a
very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used
The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly,
frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent
are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with
jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.
their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used
frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A
consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and Working facilities
a friend or friends (i.e. members of a motorcycle club). Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If
This list primarily contains tools and instruments widely available anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort
 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 0-15

of suitable work area is essential. disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a
It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal
not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service
an engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended, station. Plastic jugs (such as old antifreeze containers) are ideal for
however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of this purpose.
a roof). Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags
A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many
an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are
that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the
As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened
required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, to protect the garage or shop floor.
etc. which soon become necessary. Whenever working over a painted surface (such as the fuel tank)
Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish.
cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a
0-16

Safety first
Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. If, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough
However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.
hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A
moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to Asbestos
observe simple precautions. Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as
There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme
following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is
to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.
work you carry out on your bike.
Fire
Essential DOs and DON'Ts Remember at all times that gasoline (petrol) is highly flammable.
Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working
DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission
on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an
is in neutral.
electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by
DON'T suddenly remove the pressure cap from a hot cooling system -
careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body
cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you
may get scalded by escaping coolant. under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline (petrol) vapor, which in a
DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to confined space is highly explosive. Never use gasoline (petrol) as a
avoid scalding you. cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent.
DON'T grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before
ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you. DON'T allow brake working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk
fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine's paint work or plastic spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.
components. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for
DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all
mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.
DON'T inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos
heading).
Fumes
DON'T allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause
right away, before someone slips on it. unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline
DON'T use ill fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause (petrol) vapor comes into this category, as do the vapors from certain
injury. solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such
DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.
capability - get assistance. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions
DON'T rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may
children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DON'T inflate a give off poisonous vapors.
tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum. Apart from over Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space
stressing the carcase and wheel rim, in extreme cases the tire may such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is
blow off forcibly. extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the
DO ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.
especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or The battery
fork removal.
Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's
DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is
battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas,
generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you
which is highly explosive.
slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it. DO wear eye
Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before
protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder
working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted).
etc.
If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the
DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs -
battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or
it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier
the battery may burst.
to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery.
Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The
Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health
acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be
hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out
allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and
of the way of moving mechanical parts.
goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte
DO remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicle -
yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water
especially the electrical system.
to the acid.
DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left
lying around. Electricity
DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or instal-
When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always
lation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled
ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that,
manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring
where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such
escaping violently.
appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark
DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating
or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor. Also
adequate for the job.
ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards.
DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working
A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of
alone on the vehicle.
the electrical system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when
DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is
the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are
correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your
damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system
vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any
is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could prove
point, get professional advice.
fatal.
 0-17

Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants

A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings.
motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can
products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care
and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted
Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed
film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil to prevent contamination by water or dirt.
deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle
also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good
orifices. penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and
Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the
but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside. foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays.
It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and
connections. grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They
Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed
from brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely with either water or solvent.
necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used); it also Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to
leaves no residue. clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home
Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do
as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and not produce irritating fumes.
locks. Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with
Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal-to-
grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multi- metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some
purpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of
resistant to water than ordinary grease. filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use,
Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They
used in transmissions and final drive units, as well as other areas are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket
where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is sealing surfaces.
available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications. Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents
Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available
the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent in a variety of types for different applications.
corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry
weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring
the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and
engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks.
heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated
Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use
heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or
20W-50. abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on
Gas (petrol) additives perform several functions, depending on older vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a
their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been
gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and
serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.
the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper
0-18

Troubleshooting
Contents Symptom Section
Symptom Section Jumps out of gear.......................................................................... 29
Overshifts....................................................................................... 30
Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start
Starter motor doesn't rotate........................................................... 1 Abnormal engine noise
Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over..................... 2 Knocking or pinging ....................................................................... 31
Starter works but engine won't turn over (seized)......................... 3 Piston slap or rattling ..................................................................... 32
No fuel flow .................................................................................... 4 Valve noise..................................................................................... 33
Engine flooded............................................................................... 5 Other noise..................................................................................... 34
No spark or weak spark................................................................. 6
Compression low........................................................................... 7 Abnormal driveline noise
Stalls after starting ......................................................................... 8 Clutch noise................................................................................... 35
Rough idle...................................................................................... 9 Transmission noise......................................................................... 36
Final drive noise ............................................................................. 37
Poor running at low speed
Spark weak..................................................................................... 10
Abnormal frame and suspension noise
Fuel/air mixture incorrect............................................................... 11 Front end noise .............................................................................. 38
Compression low........................................................................... 12 Shock absorber noise.................................................................... 39
Poor acceleration........................................................................... 13 Disc brake noise............................................................................. 40

Poor running or no power at high speed Oil pressure indicator light comes on
Engine lubrication system .............................................................. 41
Firing incorrect............................................................................... 14
Electrical system............................................................................ 42
Fuel/air mixture incorrect............................................................... 15
Compression low........................................................................... 16 Excessive exhaust smoke
Knocking or pinging ....................................................................... 17
White smoke.................................................................................. 43
Miscellaneous causes.................................................................... 18
Black smoke................................................................................... 44
Brown smoke................................................................................. 45
Overheating
Engine overheats............................................................................ 19 Poor handling or stability
Firing incorrect............................................................................... 20 Handlebar hard to turn................................................................... 46
Fuel/air mixture incorrect............................................................... 21 Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively..................................... 47
Compression too high.................................................................... 22 Handlebar pulls to one side ........................................................... 48
Engine load excessive.................................................................... 23 Poor shock absorbing qualities...................................................... 49
Lubrication inadequate................................................................... 24
Miscellaneous causes.................................................................... 25 Braking problems
Disc brakes are spongy, don't hold ............................................... 50
Clutch problems Brake lever or pedal pulsates......................................................... 51
Clutch slipping ............................................................................... 26 Brakes drag.................................................................................... 52
Clutch not disengaging completely................................................ 27
Electrical problems
Gear shifting problems Battery dead or weak..................................................................... 53
Doesn't go into gear, or lever doesn't return ................................. 28 Battery overcharged....................................................................... 54
 Troubleshooting 0-19
Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start 2 Inlet needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other
debris can cause the inlet needle to seat improperly, causing excess
fuel to be admitted to the float bowl. In this case, the float chamber
1 Starter motor doesn't rotate should be cleaned and the needle and seat inspected. If the needle
and seat are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be
1 Engine kill switch Off. replaced with new ones (Chapter 4).
2 Fuse blown. Check fuse block (Chapter 8). 3 Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (i.e., if all
3 Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 8). the carburetor functions are sound) the machine should start with little
4 Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure. or no throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated
Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is pushed. If and the engine started without opening the throttle. When the engine is
the relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor. at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of throttle should
5 Starter relay faulty. Check it according to the procedure in Chapter 8. be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap off and hold the
6 Starter button not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded or throttle open while cranking the engine. This will allow additional air to
dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch (Chapter 8). reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back on after the
7 Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and harnesses engine starts.
to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for
broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to ground (earth) (see
wiring diagram, Chapter 8). 6 No spark or weak spark
8 Ignition switch defective. Check the switch according to the
procedure in Chapter 8. Replace the switch with a new one if it is
1 Ignition switch Off.
defective.
2 Engine kill switch turned to the Off position.
9 Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded
3 Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery as necessary
contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary (Chapter 8).
(Chapter 8).
10 Faulty neutral/gearchange/sidestand/clutch switch. Check the wiring
4 Spark plug dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled
to each switch and the switch itself according to the procedures in
plug(s) using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug
Chapter 8.
maintenance procedures in Chapter 1.
5 Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition.
Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are
2 Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over evident (Chapter 5).
6 Spark plug cap not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
1 Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or replace cap fits snugly over the plug end.
(Chapter 8). 7 Spark unit defective. Check the unit(s), referring to Chapter 5 for
2 Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and replace the damaged details.
parts (Chapter 8). 8 Pulse generator defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 5 for
details.
9 Ignition coil(s) defective. Check the coils, referring to Chapter 5.
10 Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water,
3 Starter works but engine won't turn over (seized)
corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be
disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning
Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged does not help, replace the switches (Chapter 8).
components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage 11 Wiring shorted or broken between:
can include seized valves, camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, connecting a) Ignition switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse)
rod bearings, or transmission gears or bearings. Refer to Chapter 2 for b) Spark unit and engine kill switch
engine disassembly. c) Spark unit and ignition coil
d) Ignition coil and plug
e) Spark unit and pulse generator
4 No fuel flow Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight.
Look for chafed and broken wires (Chapters 5 and 8).
1 No fuel in tank.
2 Fuel valve/tap vacuum hose broken or disconnected or turned OFF.
3 Tank cap air vent obstructed (not later California models). Usually 7 Compression low
caused by dirt or water. Remove it and clean the cap vent hole.
4 Fuel tap filter clogged. Clean or replace the filter (Chapter 1).
5 Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through 1 Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads.
it. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).
6 Inlet needle valve clogged. For all of the valves to be clogged, either 2 Cylinder heads not sufficiently tightened down. If either cylinder head
a very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or
some other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time.
machine has been stored for many months without running, the fuel The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct
turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle sequence (Chapter 2).
valves and jets. The carburetors should be removed and overhauled if 3 Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
draining the float bowls doesn't solve the problem. completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check
and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1).
4 Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression
pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn
5 Engine flooded rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
5 Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
1 Float height too high. Check as described in Chapter 4. piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that
causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and
0-20 Troubleshooting
rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2). without fouling.
6 Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by 6 Spark unit(s) defective. See Chapter 5.
excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is 7 Pulse generator defective. See Chapter 5.
necessary (Chapter 2). 8 Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 5.
7 Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head 11 Fuel/air mixture incorrect
gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to
restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
8 Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly 1 Pilot screw(s) out of adjustment (Chapter 4).
tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is 2 Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the
necessary (Chapter 2). carburetors (Chapter 4).
9 Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; 3 Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburetor and blow out all
the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2). passages (Chapter 4).
4 Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1).
10 Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
5 Air cleaner housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose
over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
clamps and replace or repair defective parts.
(improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the
6 Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height (Chapter 4).
seat (from carburation or lubrication problems). The valves must be
7 Fuel tank air vent obstructed (not later California models). Make
cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).
sure that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open.
8 Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears
or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots.
8 Stalls after starting

1 Improper choke action. Make sure the choke rod is getting a full 12 Compression low
stroke and staying in the out position.
2 Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 5.
1 Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall
3 Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 4.
and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).
4 Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or
2 Cylinder heads not sufficiently tightened down. If either cylinder head
water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and
several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 4). head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time.
5 Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake manifold The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct
connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, sequence (Chapter 2).
or loose carburetor top (Chapter 4). 3 Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
6 Engine idle speed incorrect. Turn throttle stop screw until the engine completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check
idles at the specified rpm (Chapters 1 and 4). and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1).
4 Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression
pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn
9 Rough idle rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
5 Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston
1 Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 5. rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes
2 Idle speed incorrect. See Chapter 1. excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings.
3 Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust carburetors with vacuum Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
gauge or manometer set as described in Chapter 1. 6 Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
4 Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 4. excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is
5 Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or necessary (Chapter 2).
water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for 7 Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 4). loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
6 Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake manifold combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head
connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to restore
or loose carburetor top (Chapter 4). the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
7 Air cleaner clogged. Service or replace air filter element (Chapter 1). 8 Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is
necessary (Chapter 2).
9 Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear;
the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).
Poor running at low speed 10 Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
10 Spark weak (improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the
seat (from carburation, lubrication problems). The valves must be
cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).
1 Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 8).
2 Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for spark
plug maintenance.
3 Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective. Refer to Chapters 1 13 Poor acceleration
and 5 for details on the ignition system.
4 Spark plug cap not making contact. 1 Carburetors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburetors (Chapter 4).
5 Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. 2 Timing not advancing. The pulse generator or the spark unit(s)
Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one may be defective. If so, they must be replaced with new ones, as they
with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds
 Troubleshooting 0-21
can't be repaired. accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary
3 Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust them with a vacuum gauge set (Chapter 2).
or manometer (Chapter 1). 5 Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
4 Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that
recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and
system and cause drag on the engine. rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
5 Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the 6 Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is
necessary (Chapter 7). necessary (Chapter 2).
7 Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
Poor running or no power at high speed combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head
gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to
restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
14 Firing incorrect 8 Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement
1 Air filter restricted. Clean or replace filter (Chapter 1). is necessary (Chapter 2).
2 Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark 9 Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear;
plug maintenance. the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).
3 Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring defective. See Chapters 1 10 Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
and 5 for details of the ignition system. over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
4 Spark plug cap not in good contact. See Chapter 5. (improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the
5 Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. seat (from carburation or lubrication problems). The valves must be
Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).
with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds without
fouling.
6 Spark unit(s) defective. See Chapter 5. 17 Knocking or pinging
7 Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 5.
1 Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that
will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the crown
15 Fuel/air mixture incorrect and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Otherwise, the
cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized (Chapter 2).
1 Main jet clogged. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main 2 Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper grades of fuel can
jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area, and the jets and cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking or
carburetor orifices (Chapter 4). pinging sound. Drain old fuel and always use the recommended fuel
2 Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric grade.
pressure and oxygen content. 3 Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates
3 Jet needle or needle jet worn. These can be replaced individually, but the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug,
should be replaced as a pair (Chapter 4). raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug
4 Air bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburetors (Chapter (Chapter 1).
4). 4 Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinder to run hot,
5 Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing (Chapter 1). which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this
6 Air cleaner housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose imbalance. See Chapter 4.
clamps, and replace or repair defective parts.
7 Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height (Chapter 4).
8 Fuel tank air vent obstructed (not later California models). Make sure
the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. 18 Miscellaneous causes
9 Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or
loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubbers (Chapter 4). 1 Throttle valve doesn't open fully. Adjust the cable slack (Chapter 1).
10 Fuel filter clogged. Clean or replace the filter (Chapter 1). 2 Clutch slipping. May be caused by loose or worn clutch components.
11 Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through Refer to Chapter 2 for clutch overhaul procedures.
it. 3 Timing not advancing.
4 Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one
recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication
16 Compression low system and cause drag on the engine.
5 Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the
brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as
1 Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall necessary.
and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).
2 Cylinder heads not sufficiently tightened down. If either cylinder head
is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and
head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. Overheating
The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct
sequence (Chapter 2).
3 Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing 19 Engine overheats
completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check
and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). 1 Coolant level low. Check and add coolant (Chapter 1).
4 Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression 2 Leak in cooling system. Check cooling system hoses and radiator
pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually
0-22 Troubleshooting
for leaks and other damage. Repair or replace parts as necessary
(Chapter 3). 24 Lubrication inadequate
3 Thermostat sticking open or closed. Check and replace as
described in Chapter 3. 1 Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of
4 Faulty radiator cap. Remove the cap and have it checked at a lubrication or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating. The oil
service station. provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check the oil level
5 Coolant passages clogged. Have the entire system drained and (Chapter 1).
flushed, then refill with fresh coolant. 2 Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not
6 Water pump defective. Remove the pump and check the only according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils are
components (Chapter 3). not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the Specifications
7 Clogged radiator fins. Clean them by blowing compressed air section and change to the correct oil (Chapter 1).
through the fins from the backside.
25 Miscellaneous causes
20 Firing incorrect
Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust
1 Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run hotter.
spark plug maintenance. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the
2 Incorrect spark plugs. carburetors.
3 Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 5).

21 Fuel/air mixture incorrect Clutch problems

1 Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the
main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area and the jets and 26 Clutch slipping
carburetor orifices (Chapter 4).
2 Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric 1 Piston in master cylinder or slave cylinder sticking (Chapter 2).
pressure and oxygen content. 2 Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly
3 Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1). (Chapter 2).
4 Air cleaner housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose 3 Steel plates worn or warped (Chapter 2).
clamps and replace or repair. 4 Clutch spring(s) broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged (from slipping
5 Fuel level too low. Check float height(s) (Chapter 4). clutch) springs should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 2).
6 Fuel tank air vent obstructed (not later California models). Make sure 5 Clutch center or housing unevenly worn. This causes improper
that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. engagement of the plates. Replace the damaged or worn parts
7 Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or (Chapter 2).
loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubbers (Chapter 4).
27 Clutch not disengaging completely

22 Compression too high 1 Air bubbles or lack or fluid in hydraulic system. Check fluid level
(Chapter 1) and bleed system (Chapter 7).
1 Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that 2 Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch drag, which
will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston in turn will cause the machine to creep. Overhaul the clutch assembly
crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. (Chapter 2).
Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and 3 Clutch spring tension uneven. Usually caused by a sagged or broken
decarbonized (Chapter 2). spring. Check and replace the spring (Chapter 2).
2 Improperly machined head surface or installation of incorrect gasket 4 Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide proper
during engine assembly. lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag. Replace the oil and
filter (Chapter 1).
5 Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than recommended
in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a drag on
23 Engine load excessive the engine. Change to the correct weight oil (Chapter 1).

1 Clutch slipping. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch 6 Clutch housing seized on shaft. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or
components. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures. damage can cause the housing to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the
2 Engine oil level too high. The addition of too much oil will cause clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair the
pressurization of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation. Check damage (Chapter 2).
Specifications and drain to proper level (Chapter 1). 7 Clutch release mechanism defective. Bent or damaged pushrod can
3 Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one stick and fail to apply force to the pressure plate. Overhaul the clutch
recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication cover components (Chapter 2).
system as well as cause drag on the engine. 8 Loose clutch center nut. Causes housing and center misalignment
4 Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the putting a drag on the engine. Engagement adjustment continually
brake piston seals, from a warped disc or bent axle (disc brake), or varies. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).
sticking operating cam (drum brake). Repair as necessary. 9 Hydraulic system leaking. Check all hoses and connections.
10 Piston in master cylinder or slave cylinder sticking (Chapter 2).
 Troubleshooting 0-23
Gear shifting problems assembly. Inspect and overhaul top end parts (Chapter 2).
2 Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a badly
flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the combustion
28 Doesn't go into gear or lever doesn't return chamber. Replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2).
3 Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of
1 Clutch not disengaging. See Section 27. lubrication. Replace damaged parts (Chapter 2).
2 Shift fork(s) bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine 4 Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top end
or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). (Chapter 2).
3 Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication or 5 Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or
excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings. Overhaul the overheating. Replace the pistons and bore the cylinders, as necessary
transmission (Chapter 2). (Chapter 2).
4 Shift drum binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear. 6 Connecting rod upper or lower end clearance excessive. Caused by
Replace the drum and bearing (Chapter 2). excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Replace worn parts.
5 Shift linkage return spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
6 Shift lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by
allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine. Replace
33 Valve noise
necessary parts (Chapter 2).
7 Shift mechanism stopper arm broken or worn. Full engagement and
rotary movement of shift drum results. Replace the arm (Chapter 2). 1 Incorrect valve clearances. Adjust the clearances by referring to
8 Pawl spring broken. Allows arm to 'float', causing sporadic shift Chapter 1.
operation. Replace springs (Chapter 2). 2 Valve spring broken or weak. Check and replace weak valve springs
(Chapter 2).
3 Camshaft or cylinder head worn or damaged. Lack of lubrication at
29 Jumps out of gear high rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil or failure to
change the oil at the recommended intervals are the chief causes.
Since there are no replaceable bearings in the head, the head itself will
1 Shift fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
have to be replaced if there is excessive wear or damage (Chapter 2).
2 Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
3 Gear dogs or dog slots worn or damaged. The gears should be
inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the
worn parts. 34 Other noise
4 Shift drum stopper arm broken. Check and replace (Chapter 2).
5 Shift drum shaft bent. Check and replace (Chapter 2). 1 Cylinder head gasket leaking.
2 Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by
improper fit of pipe(s) or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust fasteners
30 Overshifts should be tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead to
a leak.
1 Pawl springs weak or broken (Chapter 2). 3 Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from
2 Shift drum stopper arm broken (Chapter 2). over-revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.
Can also be attributed to dropping the machine on either of the
crankshaft ends.
4 Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten all engine mount bolts (Chapter
Abnormal engine noise 2).
5 Crankshaft bearings worn (Chapter 2).
31 Knocking or pinging 6 Camshaft chain tensioner defective. Replace according to the
procedure in Chapter 2.
7 Camshaft chain, sprockets or guides worn (Chapter 2).
1 Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that
will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston
crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Abnormal driveline
Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized
(Chapter 2).
noise 35 Clutch noise
2 Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause
detonation. This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or
pinging sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended 1 Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive (Chapter 2).
grade fuel (Chapter 4). 2 Loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and/or bolts (Chapter 2).
3 Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates
that the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow
plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug 36 Transmission noise
(Chapter 1).
4 Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot and
lead to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this 1 Bearings worn. Also includes the possibility that the shafts are worn.
imbalance. See Chapter 4. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
2 Gears worn or chipped (Chapter 2).
3 Metal chips jammed in gear teeth. Probably pieces from a broken
clutch, gear or shift mechanism that were picked up by the gears. This
32 Piston slap or rattling will cause early bearing failure (Chapter 2).
4 Engine oil level too low. Causes a howl from transmission. Also
1 Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper affects engine power and clutch operation (Chapter 1).
0-24 Troubleshooting
2 Engine oil level low. Inspect for leak or other problem causing low oil
37 Final drive noise level and add recommended oil (Chapters 1 and 2).
3 Engine oil viscosity too low. Very old, thin oil or an improper weight of
1 Oil level too low (Chapter 1). oil used in the engine. Change to correct oil (Chapter 1).
2 Excessive backlast between pinion and ring gear (Chapter 6). 4 Camshaft or journals worn. Excessive wear causing drop in oil
3 Scored driven flange or wheel hub. Inspect the components (Chapter pressure. Replace cam and/or/cylinder head. Abnormal wear could be
6). caused by oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or improper
4 Worn or damaged internal components in the driveshaft or final drive weight of type of oil (Chapter 1).
unit. Have a Honda dealer overhaul the assembly. 5 Crankshaft and/or bearings worn. Same problems as paragraph 4.
Check and replace crankshaft and/or bearings (Chapter 2).
6 Clogger oil strainer. Clean in (Chapter 2).
Abnormal frame and suspension noise 38

Front end noise 42 Electrical system

1 Low fluid level or improper viscosity oil in forks. This can sound like 1 Oil pressure switch defective. Check the switch according to the
spurting and is usually accompanied by irregular fork action (Chapter procedure in Chapter 8. Replace it if it is defective.
6). 2 Oil pressure indicator light circuit defective. Check for pinched,
2 Spring weak or broken. Makes a clicking or scraping sound. Fork oil, shorted, disconnected or damaged wiring (Chapter 8).
when drained, will have a lot of metal particles in it (Chapter 6).
3 Steering head bearings loose or damaged. Clicks when braking.
Check and adjust or replace as necessary (Chapters 1 and 6). Excessive exhaust smoke 43
4 Fork triple clamps loose. Make sure all fork clamp pinch bolts are
tight (Chapter 6).
White smoke
5 Fork tube bent. Good possibility if machine has been dropped.
Replace tube with a new one (Chapter 6).
6 Front axle or axle clamp bolt/nut loose. Tighten them to the specified 1 Piston oil ring worn. The ring may be broken or damaged, causing oil
torque (Chapter 6). from the crankcase to be pulled past the piston into the combustion
chamber. Replace the rings with new ones (Chapter 2).
2 Cylinders worn, cracked, or scored. Caused by overheating or oil
39 Shock absorber noise starvation. The cylinders will have to be rebored and new pistons
installed.
1 Fluid level incorrect. Indicates a leak caused by defective seal. 3 Valve oil seal damaged or worn. Replace oil seals with new ones
(Chapter 2).
Shock will be covered with oil. Replace shock (Chapter 6).
4 Valve guide worn. Perform a complete valve job (Chapter 2).
2 Defective shock absorber with internal damage. This is in the body of
5 Engine oil level too high, which causes the oil to be forced past the
the shock and can't be remedied. The shock must be replaced with a
rings. Drain oil to the proper level (Chapter 1).
new one (Chapter 6).
6 Head gasket broken between oil return and cylinder. Causes oil to be
3 Bent or damaged shock body. Replace the shock with a new one
pulled into the combustion chamber. Replace the head gasket and
(Chapter 6).
check the head for warpage (Chapter 2).
4 Loose shork or shock linkage fasteners on Sabre models (Chapter
7 Abnormal crankcase pressurization, which forces oil past the rings.
6). Clogged breather/separator or hoses usually the cause (Chapter 4).

40 Disc brake noise

44 Black smoke
1 Brake disc-to-caliper bracket clearance incorrect (front brake)
(Chapter 7). 1 Air cleaner clogged. Clean or replace the element (Chapter 1).
2 Squeal caused by dust on brake pads. Usually found in combination 2 Main jet too large or loose. Compare the jet size to the Specifi-
with glazed pads. Clean using brake cleaning solvent (Chapter 7). cations (Chapter 4).
3 Contamination of brake pads. Oil, brake fluid or dirt causing brake to 3 Choke stuck, causing fuel to be pulled through choke circuit
chatter or squeal. Clean or replace pads (Chapter 7). (Chapter 4).
4 Pads glazed. Caused by excessive heat from prolonged use or from 4 Fuel level too high. Check and adjust the float height(s) as
contamination. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth, carborundum cloth necessary (Chapter 4).
or any other abrasive to roughen the pad surfaces as abrasives will 5 Inlet needle held off needle seat. Clean the float bowls and fuel
stay in the pad material and damage the disc. A very fine flat file can line and replace the needles and seats if necessary (Chapter 4).
be used, but pad replacement is suggested as a cure (Chapter 7).
5 Disc warped. Can cause a chattering, clicking or intermittent squeal.
Usually accompanied by a pulsating lever and uneven braking. 45 Brown smoke
Replace the disc (Chapter 7).
6 Loose or worn wheel bearings. Check and replace as needed 1 Main jet too small or clogged. Lean condition caused by wrong size
(Chapter 7). main jet or by a restricted orifice. Clean float bowl and jets and
compare jet size to Specifications (Chapter 4).
Oil pressure indicator light comes on 41 2 Fuel flow insufficient. Fuel inlet needle valve stuck closed due to
chemical reaction with old fuel. Float height incorrect. Restricted fuel
line. Clean line and float bowl and adjust floats if necessary.
Engine lubrication system 3 Carburetor intake manifolds loose (Chapter 4).
4 Air cleaner poorly sealed or not installed (Chapter 1).
1 Engine oil pump defective (Chapter 2).

I
 Troubleshooting 0-25
Poor handling or stability 2 Too soft:
a) Fork or shock oil insufficient and/or leaking (Chapter 6).
b) Fork oil level too low (Chapter 6).
46 Handlebar hard to turn
c) Fork oil viscosity too light (Chapter 6).
d) Fork springs weak or broken (Chapter 6).
1 Steering stem nut too tight (Chapter 6). e) Shock internal damage or leakage (Chapter 6).
2 Bearings damaged. Roughness can be felt as the bars are turned
from side-to-side. Replace bearings and races (Chapter 6).
3 Races dented or worn. Denting results from wear in only one
position (e.g., straight-ahead), from a collision or hitting a pothole or
Braking problems
from dropping the machine. Replace races and bearings (Chapter 6).
4 Steering stem lubrication inadequate. Causes are grease getting 50 Disc brakes are spongy, don't hold
hard from age or being washed out by high pressure car washes.
Disassemble steering head and repack bearings (Chapter 6). 1 Air in brake line. Caused by inattention to master cylinder fluid level
5 Steering stem bent. Caused by a collision, hitting a pothole or by or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed brakes (Chapter 7).
dropping the machine. Replace damaged part. Don't try to straighten 2 Pad or disc worn (Chapters 1 and 7).
the steering stem (Chapter 6). 3 Brake fluid leak. See paragraph 1.
6 Front tire air pressure too low (Chapter 1). 4 Contaminated pads. Caused by contamination with oil, grease, brake
fluid, etc. Clean or replace pads. Clean disc thoroughly with brake
cleaner (Chapter 7).
47 Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively 5 Brake fluid deteriorated. Fluid is old or contaminated. Drain system,
replenish with new fluid and bleed the system (Chapter 7).
6 Master cylinder internal parts worn or damaged causing fluid to
1 Tires worn or out of balance (Chapter 7). bypass (Chapter 7).
2 Swingarm bearings worn. Replace worn bearings by referring to 7 Master cylinder bore scratched by foreign material or broken spring.
Chapter 6. Repair or replace master cylinder (Chapter 7).
3 Rim(s) warped or damaged. Inspect wheels for runout (Chapter 8 Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 7).
7).
4 Wheel bearings worn. Worn front or rear wheel bearings can cause
poor tracking. Worn front bearings will cause wobble (Chapter 7).
5 Handlebar clamp bolts loose (Chapter 6).
51 Brake lever or pedal pulsates
6 Steering stem or fork triple clamps loose. Tighten them to the
specified torque (Chapter 6). 1 Disc warped or drum out-of-round (Chapter 7).
7 Engine mounting bolts loose. Will cause excessive vibration with 2 Axle bent. Replace axle (Chapter 7).
increased engine rpm (Chapter 2). 3 Brake caliper or bracket bolts loose (Chapter 7).
8 Loose axle (Chapter 7). 4 Brake caliper sticking on its mounting bolt shafts, causing caliper to
bind. Lube the shafts or replace them if they are corroded or bent
(Chapter 7).
5 Wheel warped or otherwise damaged (Chapter 7).
48 Handlebar pulls to one side 6 Wheel bearings damaged or worn (Chapter 7).

1 Frame bent. Definitely suspect this if the machine has been dropped.
May or may not be accompanied by cracking near the bend. Replace 52 Brakes drag
the frame (Chapter 6).
2 Wheel out of alignment. Caused by improper location of axle spacers
1 Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to piston
or from bent steering stem or frame (Chapter 6).
or cylinder bore (Chapter 7).
3 Swingarm bent or twisted. Caused by age (metal fatigue) or impact
2 Lever balky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate (Chapter 7).
damage. Replace the arm (Chapter 6).
3 Brake caliper binds. Caused by inadequate lubrication or damage to
4 Steering stem bent. Caused by impact damage or by dropping the
caliper sliders (Chapter 7).
motorcycle. Replace the steering stem (Chapter 6).
4 Brake caliper pistons seized in bore. Caused by wear or ingestion of
5 Fork leg bent. Disassemble the forks and replace the damaged parts dirt past deteriorated seal (Chapter 7).
(Chapter 6).
5 Brake pad damaged. Pad material separated from backing plate.
6 Fork oil level uneven. Check and add or drain as necessary (Chapter
Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact with
6).
chemicals. Replace pads (Chapter 7).
7 Defective shock absorber on one side (Magna models).
6 Pads improperly installed (Chapter 7).
7 Drum brake operating cam sticking or broken/sagged shoe return
strings (Chapter 7).
49 Poor shock absorbing qualities 8 Rear brake pedal freeplay insufficient.
1 Too hard:
a) Fork oil level excessive (Chapter 6). Electrical problems 53
b) Fork oil viscosity too high.
c) Fork tube bent. Causes a harsh, sticking feeling (Chapter 6).
d) Anti-dive passages clogged (Chapter 6). Battery dead or weak
e) Shock shaft or body bent or damaged (Chapter 6).
f) Fork internal damage (Chapter 6). 1 Battery faulty. Caused by sulfated plates which are shorted through
g) Shock internal damage. sedimentation or low electrolyte level. Also, broken battery terminal
h) Tire pressure too high (Chapter 1). making only occasional contact (Chapter 8).
2 Battery cables making poor contact (Chapter 8).
0-26 Troubleshooting

3 Load excessive. Caused by addition of high wattage lights or other

electrical accessories. 54 Battery overcharged
4 Ignition main (key) switch defective. Switch either grounds (earths)
internally or fails to shut off system. Replace the switch (Chapter 8). 1 Regulator/rectifier defective. Overcharging is noticed when battery
5 Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 8). gets excessively warm or boils over (Chapter 8).
6 Alternator stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 8). 2 Battery defective. Replace battery with a new one (Chapter 8).
7 Wiring faulty. Wiring grounded (earthed) or connections loose in 3 Battery amperage too low, wrong type or size. Install manufacturer's
ignition, charging or lighting circuits (Chapter 8). specified amp-hour battery to handle charging load (Chapter 8).
 1-1

Chapter 1
Tune-up and routine maintenance
Contents
Sect/on Sect/on
Air filter element - cleaning and replacement................................ 12 Final drive unit - oil change............................................................ 11
Battery - check............................................................................... 4 Fluid levels - check......................................................................... 3
Brake pads/linings - wear check.................................................... 5 Fuel system - checks and filter replacement................................. 26
Brake system - checks................................................................... 6 Idle speed - check and adjustment................................................ 17
Carburetor synchronization - check and adjustment..................... 18 Introduction to tune-up and routine maintenance......................... 2
Clutch - checks and bleeding ........................................................ 9 Lubrication - general...................................................................... 15
Cooling system - check ................................................................. 19 Routine maintenance intervals....................................................... 1
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling ............................ 20 Spark plugs - check and replacement........................................... 14
Crankcase breather - check........................................................... 21 Stands- check............................................................................... 28
Cylinder compression - check ....................................................... 13 Steering head bearings - check and adjustment........................... 24
Engine oil/filter - change ................................................................ 10 Suspension - check........................................................................ 27
Evaporative emission control system and Secondary air Tires/wheels - general check ......................................................... 7
supply system (California models only) - check....................... 22 Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay - check
Exhaust system - check................................................................. 23 and adjustment......................................................................... 8
Fasteners - check........................................................................... 25 Valve clearances - check and adjustment..................................... 16

Specifications

Engine
Spark plug type
Standard............................................................................................. NGK DPR8EA-9 or ND X24EPR-U9
Below 41°F (5°C)................................................................................ NGK DPR7EA-9 or ND X22EPR-U9
Extended high speeds........................................................................ NGK DPR9EA-9 or ND X27EPR-U9
Spark plug electrode gap ........................................................................ 0.8 to 0.9 mm (0.031 to 0.035 in)
Valve clearances (COLD engine)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas and all
700/750 Sabre models.................................................................. 0.12 mm (0.0047 in)
1985 700 Magna models.................................................................... 0.13 mm (0.0051 in)
1986-on 700/750 and all 1100 models .............................................. 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
Engine idle speed
750 Sabre and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models ............. 1000 ± 100 rpm
700 Sabre and 1985-on 700/750 Magna models .............................. 1200 ± 100 rpm
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 1000 to 1100 rpm
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 1000 ± 100 rpm
Cylinder compression pressures............................................................. 184 ±28 psi (psi)
Carburetor synchronization (maximum vacuum difference between any two cylinders
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models...................................... 40 mm (1.6 in) Hg
All other models ................................................................................. 60 mm (2.4 in) Hg
Cylinder identification.............................................................................. See illustration 1.1 in Chapter 2

Miscellaneous
Battery electrolyte specific gravity........................................................... 1.280 at 68°F (20°C)
Brake pad minimum thickness ................................................................ See text
Brake pedal freeplay (700/750 models)................................................... 20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 in)
Throttle grip freeplay................................................................................ 2 to 6 mm (0.08 to 0.24 in)
1-2 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Tire sizes Front Rear

700/750 Sabre models....................................................................... 110/90-18 61H 130/90-17 68H
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 110/90-18 61H 130/90-16 67H
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 110/90-18 61H 140/90-15 70H
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 100/90-19 57H 150/80-15 70H
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ M110/90-18 M130/90-17
1100 Magna models........................................................................... M110/90-18 M140/90-16
Minimum tire tread depth*....................................................................... 1.5 mm (0.06 in) 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Tire pressures (cold)
1100 Sabres
Up to 90 kg (200 Ib) load .............................................................. 32 psi 36 psi
Over 90 kg (200 Ib) load................................................................ 32 psi 40 psi
700/750 Sabres, 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas, all 1100 Magnas
Up to 90 kg (200 Ib) load .............................................................. 32 psi 32 psi
Over 90 kg (200 Ib) load................................................................ 32 psi 40 psi
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magnas
Up to 90 kg (200 Ib) load .............................................................. 32 psi 32 psi
Over 90 kg (200 Ib) load................................................................ 32 psi 42 psi
'In the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches.

Torque setting Nm ft-ibs

Engine oil pan drain plug......................................................................... 35 to 40 25 to 29
Front cylinder oil drain plug..................................................................... 10 to 14 7 to 10
Oil filter (using Honda tool)...................................................................... 15to20 11 to 14
Spark plugs.............................................................................................. 12 to 16 9 to 12

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Engine/transmission oil
Type.................................................................................................... API grade SE or SF
Viscosity............................................................................................. SAE10W/40
Capacity (700/750 models)
After draining ................................................................................ 2.9 lit (3.1 US qt, 5.1 Imp pts)
After engine rebuild....................................................................... 3.0 lit (3.2 US qt, 5.3 Imp pts)
Capacity (1100 models)
After draining ................................................................................ 3.0 lit (3.2 US qt, 5.3 Imp pts)
After engine rebuild....................................................................... 3.5 lit (3.7 US qt, 6.2 Imp pts)
Final drive unit
Type
1982 and 1983 750 models (above 41°F/5°C).............................. Hypoid gear oil SAE90
1982 and 1983 750 models (below 41°F/5°C).............................. Hypoid gear oil SAE80
All other models............................................................................ Hypoid gear oil SAE80
Capacity*
1982 and 1983 750 models.......................................................... 110 cc (3.7 US fl oz, 3.9 Imp fl oz)
1984-on 700/750 models and all 1100 models............................ 130 cc (4.4 Usfl oz, 4.6 Imp fl oz)
"Refill quantity is greater if the final drive has been dismantled
Coolant
Mixture type ....................................................................................... 50% distilled water, 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze
Radiator capacity
700/750 models............................................................................ 2.4 lit (2.5 US qt, 4.2 Imp pt)
1100 Sabre model......................................................................... 2.8 lit (2.9 US qt, 4.9 Imp pt)
1100 Magna model....................................................................... 3.0 lit (3.2 US qt, 5.3 Imp pt)
Reservoir tank capacity (approx.)
1100 Sabre model......................................................................... 0.6 lit (0.6 US qt, 1.0 Imp pt)
All other models............................................................................ 0.4 lit (0.4 US qt, 0.7 Imp pt)
Brake and clutch fluid.............................................................................. DOT 3 or 4 (see reservoir cap)

Miscellaneous
Wheel bearings........................................................................................ Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Final drive flange grease.......................................................................... See Chapter 6
Swingarm pivot bearings......................................................................... Molybdenum disulfide grease
Suspension linkage bearings (Sabre)...................................................... Molybdenum disulfide grease
Cables and lever pivots........................................................................... Chain and cable lubricant or 10W40 motor oil
Stand pivots............................................................................................. Medium-weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Brake pedal/shift lever pivots.................................................................. Chain and cable lubricant or 10W40 motor oil
Throttle grip............................................................................................. Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-3

Honda 700, 750 & 1100 V-Four

1 Routine maintenance intervals
Routine maintenance intervals Replace the spark plugs
Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined in the owner's manual covers Check the idle speed
the checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily Check the battery electrolyte level and condition
basis. It's condensed and included here to remind you of its Check the brake fluid level and pad wear
importance. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every Check the drum brake lining wear
maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals Check the clutch fluid level
listed below are the shortest intervals recommended by the
manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years
covered in this manual. Your owner's manual may have different
intervals for your model. Every 8000 miles (12,000 km)_________
Replace the engine oil and filter
Daily or before riding Check the fuel system hoses
Check the battery
Check the engine oil level Check and adjust the throttle and choke cables
Check the fuel level and inspect for leaks Check/adjust the valve clearances
Check the engine coolant level and look for leaks Replace the air cleaner element (1982 through 1985
Check the operation of both brakes - also check the fluid Magna models)
levels and look for leakage Check the tires for Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization Check
damage, the presence of foreign objects the Evaporative emission control system (1982
and correct air pressure Check the throttle for smooth through 1985 models) Check the Secondary air
operation Check the operation of the clutch - make sure supply system (1986 through
the freeplay 1988 models)
is correct Make sure the steering operates Check the coolant level and check the cooling system
smoothly, without Check the final drive oil level Lubricate the final driven
looseness or binding Check for proper operation flange with fresh grease - 700/750
of the headlight, taillight, Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas (see
brake light, turn signals, indicator lights, speedometer Chapter 6)
and horn Make sure the sidestand and main stand Check the brake hydraulic system Check the
return to their fully operation of the brake light switches Check the
up positions and stay there under spring pressure headlight aim (see Chapter 8) Check the clutch
Make sure the engine stop switch works properly hydraulic system Check the stand pivots Check the
operation of the suspension Check the steering
head bearings for play Check the condition of the
After the initial 600 miles (1000 km) wheels and tires Check the tightness of all nuts,
bolts and fasteners
Replace the engine oil and oil filter
Check and adjust the valve Every 12,000 miles (19,200 km)________
clearances Check and adjust the idle
speed Check the throttle operation
Replace the air filter element (1986 through 1988
Check the carburetor synchronization
Magnas) Check the Evaporative emission control system
Check the cooling system Check the
(1986
brake hydraulic system Check the
through 1988 models) Replace the clutch and
clutch hydraulic system Check the
brake fluid (or every two years,
tightness of all fasteners Check the
whichever comes sooner)
steering head bearings

Every 24,000 miles (36,000 km)________

Every 4000 miles (6000 km)
Replace the coolant
Clean the air filter element(s) (Sabre models) Drain Replace the fuel filter (1982 through 1986 Magnas and
the crankcase breather separator tank (where 1100 Sabres) Replace
applicable) the final drive oil
1-4 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

3.2 Rotate the wiper to clear the oil level inspection window 3.3 Add engine oil via the plug in the front of the right
(1982 750 models) engine case
2 Introduction to tune-up and routine maintenance 3 Fluid levels - check

This Chapter covers in detail the checks and procedures Engine oil
necessary for the tune-up and routine maintenance of your
motorcycle. Section 1 includes the routine maintenance schedule, Refer to illustrations 3.2, 3.3 and 3.7
which is designed to keep the machine in proper running condition
and prevent possible problems. The remaining Sections contain 1982 750 models
detailed procedures for carrying out the items listed on the 1 Check the oil level with the engine cold. Place the motorcycle on
maintenance schedule, as well as additional maintenance its main stand on level ground.
information designed to increase reliability. 2 Locate the engine oil inspection window on the lower right side of
Since routine maintenance plays such an important role in the the engine. If necessary, use a screwdriver to rotate the wiper in
safe and efficient operation of your motorcycle, it is presented here order to clean the inspection window (see illustration).
as a comprehensive check list. For the rider who does all his/her 3 Note where the oil level is in relation to the upper and lower level
own maintenance, these lists outline the procedures and checks marks located on either side of the inspection window. The level
that should be done on a routine basis. should be between these two marks. If the oil level is below the
Maintenance information is printed on decals attached to the lower mark, remove the filler cap and add enough oil of the
motorcycle. If the information on the decals differs from that recommended grade and type to bring the level up to the upper
included here, use the information on the decal. mark (see illustration). Do not overfill. Re-install the filler cap.
Deciding where to start or plug into the routine maintenance 4 Run the engine and check that the oil pressure warning light
schedule depends on several factors. If you have a motorcycle goes out after a few seconds.
whose warranty has recently expired, and if it has been maintained
according to the warranty standards, you may want to pick up All other models
routine maintenance as it coincides with the next mileage or 5 Run the engine for 2 to 3 minutes, then stop it. Caution: Do not
calendar interval. If you have owned the machine for some time run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or shop. Place
but have never performed any maintenance on it, then you may the motorcycle on its main stand (have an assistant hold it vertical
want to start at the nearest interval and include some additional on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models) on level ground.
procedures to ensure that nothing important is overlooked. If you 6 Remove the oil level dipstick from the rear of the engine right
have just had a major engine overhaul, then you may want to start cover and wipe its end clean. Re-insert the dipstick, but don't screw
the maintenance routine from the beginning. If you have a used it in, then remove it and check the oil level.
machine and have no knowledge of its history or maintenance 7 Note where the oil level is in relation to the upper and lower level
record, you may desire to combine all the checks into one large marks on the dipstick. The level should be between these two
service initially and then settle into the maintenance schedule marks. If the oil level is below the lower mark, remove the filler cap
prescribed. and add enough oil of the recommended grade and type to bring
The Sections which outline the inspection and maintenance the level up to the upper mark (see illustration). Do not overfill.
procedures are written as step-by-step comprehensive guides to Re-install the filler cap.
the performance of the work. They explain in detail each of the 8 Some later 700/750 models retain the oil level inspection window
routine inspections and maintenance procedures on the check list. (see Step 2), although the dipstick method is recommended.
References to additional information in applicable Chapters is also 9 Run the engine and check that the oil pressure warning light
included and should not be overlooked. goes out after a few seconds.
Before beginning any maintenance or repair, the machine
should be cleaned thoroughly, especially around the oil filter, spark Brake fluid
plugs, cylinder head covers, side covers, carburetors, etc.
Refer to illustration 3.12
Cleaning will help ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine
and will allow you to detect wear and damage that could otherwise 10 In order to ensure proper operation of the hydraulic disc
easily go unnoticed. brakes,
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-5

3.7 Oil level should lie between dipstick marks 3.12 Brake/clutch fluid level must be above LOWER mark on
(all except 1882 750 models) master cylinder
the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir(s) must be properly Clutch fluid
maintained.
21 The procedure for checking the clutch fluid is identical to the
front brake fluid checking procedure above.
Front brake
11 With the motorcycle on the main stand (or held upright), turn Coolant level
the handlebars until the top of the master cylinder is as level as
possible. If necessary, tilt the motorcycle to make it level. Refer to illustration 3.23
12 Look closely at the inspection window in the master cylinder 22 Remove the left side cover on 700/750 Sabres, or the right side
reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level, visible in the sightglass, is cover on all other models.
above the LOWER mark on the reservoir (see illustration). 23 Start the engine and allow it to idle until it reaches normal
13 If the level is low, the fluid must be replenished. Before operating temperature. With the engine thoroughly warmed up, the
removing the master cylinder cover, cover the fuel tank to protect it coolant level in the reservoir should be between the Upper and
from brake fluid spills (which will damage the paint) and remove all Lower marks on the side of the reservoir (see illustration).
dust and dirt from the area around the cap. 24 If the coolant is below the Lower mark, remove the cap from the
14 Unscrew the retaining screws and lift off the cover, diaphragm reservoir tank and add coolant of the specified type (see Specifi-
plate (where fitted), diaphragm and float (1988 750 Magna model). cations) to bring the level to the Upper mark. Note: Be careful not
Using a good quality brake fluid of the recommended type, from a to spill coolant on any painted surfaces, as damage to the paint
freshly opened container, top up the reservoir to the upper level could occur.
mark; this mark is in the form of a line, cast on the inside of the 25 Re-install the reservoir cap and the side cover.
front face of the reservoir. 26 If the coolant is significantly above the upper level mark at any
15 When the fluid level is correct, clean and dry the diaphragm, time, the surplus coolant should be siphoned off to prevent it from
fold it into its compressed state and install it in the reservoir being expelled out of the breather hose when the engine is
followed by the diaphragm plate. Install the reservoir cover and running.
securely tighten its retaining screws. 27 If the coolant level falls steadily, check the system for leaks as

Rear brake (1100 models)

16 With the motorcycle on the main stand, remove the right side
cover and check the fluid level in the rear brake reservoir. Make
sure that the fluid level, visible through the translucent material of
the reservoir, is above the LOWER mark on the reservoir.
17 If the level is low, the fluid must be replenished. Remove any
dust and dirt from the area around the cap. Unscrew the reservoir
cap and remove the diaphragm plate and diaphragm. Using a good
quality brake fluid of the recommended type, from a freshly opened
container, top up the reservoir to the UPPER level mark.
18 When the fluid level is correct, clean and dry the diaphragm,
fold it into its compressed state and install it in the reservoir
followed by the diaphragm plate. Install the reservoir cap,
tightening it securely, and install the right side cover.

Both brakes
19 Check the operation of both brakes before riding the
motorcycle; if there is evidence of air in the system, it must be bled
as described in Chapter 7.
20 If the brake fluid level was low, inspect the brake system for 3.23 Coolant level should lie between UPPER and LOWER lines
leaks. on reservoir tank
1-6 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

3.29 Final drive unit oil filler cap (A) and drain bolt (B) 4.1 Battery electrolyte level should lie between level marks
on casing
described in Section 19. If no leaks are found and the level still
continues to fall, it is recommended that the machine be taken to a
Honda
service agent who will pressure test the system.

Final drive unit oil

Refer to illustration 3.29
28 If the motorcycle has just been ridden, wait ten minutes for the
oil to settle before checking the level. Place the motorcycle on its
main stand. Be sure it is on level ground.
29 On 1982 and 1983 750 models, remove the oil filler cap (see
illustration). Look into the aperture, using a hand-held flashlight if
necessary, and locate the step in the casting. Align the top edge of
one of the ring gear teeth with the top of the step (rotate the rear
wheel to move the ring gear) - at this point the oil should be level
with the top of the next tooth down on the ring gear. If the oil level
is lower than this, add more oil of the correct type and grade, using
a funnel, syringe or pump, to bring it to its proper level.
30 On all other models, remove the oil filler cap (see illustration
3.29). The level of the oil should be just at the lower edge of the oil 4.6 Measuring electrolyte specific gravity with a hydrometer
filler
hole. If the oil level is lower than this, add more oil of the correct
type
and grade, using a funnel, syringe or pump, to bring it to its proper Upper mark. Do not overfill. Also, do not use tap water, except in
level. an emergency, as this will shorten the service life of the battery.
31 On all models, re-install the oil filler cap, tightening it securely. The cell holes are quite small so it may help to use a plastic
squeeze bottle with a small spout to add the water.
4 After filling install the battery and ensure its vent hose is routed
4 Battery - check correctly (see Chapter 8).

Specific gravity check

Battery electrolyte Refer to illustration 4.6
Caution: Take care when working with the battery that you do not 5 Remove the battery (see Chapter 8). Check the specific gravity of
allow the electrolyte to contact your eyes, skin or clothing, as it the electrolyte in each cell using a small hydrometer made
contains sulphuric acid. Flush any contacted area immediately with especially for motorcycle batteries. These are available from most
plenty of water. Any contact with eyes requires prompt medical dealer parts departments.
attention. 6 Remove the caps, draw some electrolyte from the first cell into the
Refer to illustration 4.1 hydrometer and note the specific gravity (see illustration). Compare
1 To check the level of the electrolyte in the battery, remove the the reading to the Specifications listed in this Chapter. Note: Add 0.004
right side cover (1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas, all 700/750 points to the reading for every 10°F above 68°F (20°C) -subtract 0.004
Sabres and all 1100 Magnas) or left side cover (1100 Sabres). On points from the reading for every 10°F below 68°F (20°F). Return the
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magnas, the battery must be lifted out electrolyte to the cell and repeat the check for the remaining cells. When
of its holder to check the level (see Chapter 8). The level should be the check is complete, rinse the hydrometer thoroughly with clean water.
between the Upper and Lower level marks printed on the outside 7 If the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell is as specified,
of the battery case (see illustration). the battery is in good condition and is apparently being charged by
2 If the electrolyte level is at or below the Lower mark, the battery the motorcycle's charging system.
must be removed in order to add more water (see Chapter 8).
3 With the battery removed from the motorcycle, remove each cell
cap and add enough distilled water to each cell to bring the level to
the
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-7

5.1 Brake pad wear can be checked through inspection window in 5.2 Brake pad wear cutout (upper arrow) and wear grooves
caliper body (arrow) (lower arrow)
must be replaced (see illustration).
2 As a further check, view the pads from the caliper mouth. If the
friction material has worn down level with the base of the grooves
or slots in the pad, the need for replacement is indicated (see
illustration). Refer to Chapter 7 for the pad replacement
procedure. However, it is recommended that the pads be removed
and a more detailed inspection be carried out as described in
Sections 2 and 15 of Chapter 7.
3 If it is impossible to check the amount of pad material remaining
due to a build-up of road dirt, remove the pads for thorough
inspection and cleaning (see Chapter 7).

Drum brake linings (700/750 models)

Refer to illustration 5.4
4 The drum brake shoes are checked by applying the brake fully
and checking to see whether the wear indicator pointer on the
brake lever aligns with the index mark on the brake panel (see
illustration).
5 If it aligns with the index mark or exceeds it, the brake shoes are
5.4 Drum brake linings are worn when indicator pointer and index worn and must be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 7). If in
mark align any doubt about the amount of lining material remaining on the
shoes, or if brake action is poor, remove the wheel for
measurement of the lining thickness (see Chapter 7).
8 If the specific gravity is low, the battery is not fully charged. This
may be due to corroded battery terminals, a dirty battery case, a
malfunctioning charging system, or loose or corroded wiring
connections. On the other hand, it may be that the battery is worn 6 Brake system -
out, especially if the motorcycle is old, or that infrequent use of the
motorcycle prevents normal charging from taking place.
9 Be sure to correct any problems and charge the battery if
checks Brake checks
necessary. Refer to Chapter 8 for additional battery maintenance 1 A routine general check of the brakes will ensure that any
and charging procedures. problems are discovered and remedied before the rider's safety is
10 Install the battery (see Chapter 8). jeopardized.
2 Check the brake lever and pedal for loose connections,
excessive play, bends, and other damage. Replace any damaged
parts with new ones (see Chapter 7).
5 Brake pads/linings - wear check 3 Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. Check the brake
pads/linings for wear (see Section 5) and on disc brake models,
Disc brake pads make sure the fluid level in the reservoirs is correct (see Section
3).
Refer to illustrations 5.1 and 5.2 4 On disc brakes, look for leaks at the hose connections and check
1 A quick check of the brake pads can be made without removing for cracks in the hoses. If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed the
them from the caliper. Pad wear can be judged by viewing the pad brakes as described in Chapter 7. Drain and replace the brake fluid
material through the inspection slot indicated by the cast arrow on at the specified interval.
the caliper body; the use of a hand-held flashlight will aid visibility.
The original equipment pads have a cutout between the pad metal Brake lever freeplay (1985 1100 Sabre and
backing and the friction material which denotes the wear limit - if
the friction material of either pad has worn down to expose the 1985/86 1100 Magna)
cutout, the pads 5 Measure the freeplay at the ball end of the front brake lever.
Assuming that there is no air in the hydraulic system, resulting in a
1-8 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

6.8 Brake pedal height adjustment bolt on 700/750 6.10 Adjust brake pedal freeplay using nut at end of brake
models (arrow) rod (arrow)
spongy feel to the lever (see below), the lever should move 20 to 30 Brake pedal freeplay
mm before the front brake comes on.
Refer to illustration 6.10
6 If outside of this measurement, adjust using the knurled ring at the
10 On 700/750 models, depress the pedal and measure how far it
lever pivot, noting that one of the index marks on the ring must align
travels before the shoes contact the drum. Compare the results to the
with the arrow stamped in the top of the lever. Check operation of the
Specifications. Adjustment is made by turning the adjusting nut on the
front brake and check that there is no brake drag.
brake rod end (see illustration).
Brake pedal height
Refer to illustration 6.8
Brake stop lights
7 Brake pedal height is important to ensure maximum braking Refer to illustration 6.12
efficiency. Incorrect height can cause brake drag or prevent full 11 Make sure the brake light operates when the front brake lever is
application of the rear brake. depressed. The front brake light switch is not adjustable. If it fails to
8 On 700/750 Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas, the top operate properly, replace it with a new one (see Chapter 8).
of the brake pedal should be 7 mm (0.3 in) below the top of the rider's 12 Make sure the brake light is activated just before the rear brake
footpeg. On later 700/750 Magna models, the top of the brake pedal pedal takes effect. If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch and turn
should be 25 mm (1 in) above the top of the rider's footpeg. To adjust, the adjusting ring on the switch body until the brake light is activated
loosen the locknut on the adjusting screw and turn the screw in or out when required (see illustration). If the switch doesn't operate the
until the pedal height is correct, the tighten the locknut (see brake lights, check it as described in Chapter 8.
illustration).
9 On 1100 Sabre models the top of the brake pedal should be 15 mm
(0.6 in) below the top of the footpeg. On 1100 Magna models the top of
the brake pedal should be 30 mm (1.2 in) above the top of the rider's 7 Tires/wheels - general check
footpeg. Make adjustment at the master cylinder pushrod by loosening
the locknut on the clevis and rotating the pushrod to alter the pedal Refer to illustrations 7.2 and 7.4
height; tighten the locknut on completion. 1 Routine tire and wheel checks should be made with the

6.12 Rear brake stop light switch adjuster nut (arrow) 7.2 Measuring tire tread depth
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-9

7.4 Measuring tire air pressure 8.3a With the throttle at rest, mark the relationship of the grip to
the right switch assembly ...

realization that your safety depends to a great extent on their condition.

2 Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other 8 Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay - check and
sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with adjustment
excessively worn tires is extremely hazardous, as traction and handling
are directly affected. Measure the tread depth at the center of the tire
and replace worn tires with new ones when the tread depth is less than Throttle cables
specified (see illustration). Refer to illustrations 8.3a, 8,3b, 8.4 and 8.5
3 Repair or replace punctured tires as soon as damage is noted. Do 1 Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily from fully closed to fully
not try to patch a torn tire, as wheel balance and tire reliability may be open with the front wheel turned at various angles. The grip should
impaired. return automatically from fully open to fully closed when released.
4 Check the tire pressures when the tires are cold and keep them 2 If the throttle sticks, this is probably due to a cable fault. Remove the
properly inflated (see illustration). Proper air pressure will increase cables as described in Chapter 4 and lubricate them as described in
tire life and provide maximum stability and ride comfort. Keep in mind Section 15. Install each cable, routing them so they take the smoothest
that low tire pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim or come off, route possible. If this fails to improve the operation of the throttle, the
while high tire pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe cables must be replaced. Note that in very rare cases the fault could lie
handling. in the carburetors rather than the cables, necessitating the removal of
5 The cast wheels used on this machine are virtually maintenance free, the carburetors and inspection of the throttle linkage (see Chapter 4).
but they should be kept clean and checked periodically for cracks and 3 With the throttle operating smoothly, check for a small amount of
other damage. Never attempt to repair damaged cast wheels; they freeplay at the grip. The amount of freeplay in the throttle cables,
must be replaced with new ones. measured in terms of twistgrip rotation, should be as given in this
6 Check the valve rubber for signs of damage or deterioration and have Chapter's Specifications (see illustrations). If adjustment is necessary,
it replaced if necessary. Also, make sure the valve stem cap is in place adjust idle speed first (see Section 17).
and tight. If it is missing, install a new one made of metal or hard 4 Loosen the locknut on the cable upper adjuster and rotate the
plastic. adjuster until the correct amount of freeplay is obtained, then tighten

8.3b ... then measure the distance the throttle grip can be 8.4 Throttle cable upper adjuster (arrow).
rotated before a slight resistance is felt
1-10 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

8.5 ... and lower adjuster on carburetors (arrow) 9.4 When bleeding the clutch connect tube to bleed valve
as shown
the locknut (see illustration). If it is not possible to obtain the correct 3 Check that the fluid level in the reservoir is correct (see Section 3).
freeplay with the upper adjuster, it will also be necessary to make Look for leaks at the hose connections and check for cracks in the
adjustment at the lower adjuster, situated on the carburetors. hoses.
5 To gain access to the lower adjuster remove the fuel tank or trig it up 4 If the lever is spongy, bleed the clutch line of air. The bleeding
on early Magnas (see Chapter 4) (see illustration). Screw the upper operation is exactly the same as described for bleeding the brakes in
cable adjuster in to obtain the maximum possible freeplay, then loosen Chapter 7, Section 11. Remove the slave cylinder bleed valve cap, and
the lower adjuster locknut and set the cable freeplay using first the connect the bleed tube to the valve (see illustration).
lower adjuster and then, if necessary, the upper adjuster. Once the
freeplay is correct tighten the locknuts securely.
6 Check that the throttle twistgrip operates smoothly and snaps shut 10 Engine oil/filter - change
quickly when released. Warning: Turn the handlebars all the way
through their travel with the engine idling. Idle speed should not Refer to illustrations 10.4a and 10.4b
change. If it does, the cables may be routed incorrectly. Correct this 1 Consistent routine oil and filter changes are the single most important
condition before riding the bike (see Chapter 4). maintenance procedure you can perform on a motorcycle. The oil not
only lubricates the internal parts of the engine, transmission and clutch,
Choke cable but it also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, and a protectant.
7 Proper choke operation will ensure fast starts and quick engine warm Because of these demands, the oil takes a terrific amount of abuse and
up. Initially, move the choke lever up and down making sure it moves should be replaced often with new oil of the recommended grade and
smoothly. type. Saving a little money on the difference in cost between a good oil
8 If there is any binding or drag in the lever's operation, the cable and a cheap oil won't pay off if the engine is damaged.
should be checked for kinks or damage to the cable casing and then 2 Before changing the oil and filter, warm up the engine so the oil will
removed (see Chapter 4) and lubricated as described in Section 15. drain easily. Be careful when draining the oil, as the exhaust pipes, the
9 If cable lubrication fails to improve the operation of the choke, the engine, and the oil itself can cause severe burns.
cable must be replaced. Note that in very rare cases the fault could lie 3 Put the motorcycle on the main stand (where fitted) and position a
in the carburetors rather than the cable, necessitating the removal of clean drain pan below the engine. Unscrew the oil filler cap to vent the
the carburetors and inspection of the choke plungers as described in crankcase and act as a reminder that there is no oil in the engine.
Chapter 4. 4 Next, remove the drain plug from the oil pan, as well as the drain plug
10 With the choke mechanism operating smoothly, check the choke from the front cylinder head and allow the oil to drain into the pan (on
cable freeplay as described in Chapter 4. 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas hold the motorcycle upright to ensure
11 Once the choke mechanism is correctly adjusted, install the air filter that the oil drains fully) (see illustrations). Discard the sealing washers
housing and fuel tank as described in Chapter 4. on the drain plugs; they should be replaced whenever the plugs are
removed.
5 On certain California models, the emission control system canister will
9 Clutch - checks and bleeding prevent access to the oil filter. Disconnect its hoses and remove it from
the frame (see Chapter 4). On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
Refer to illustration 9.4 access to the filter is improved is the belly fairing is removed (see
1 Check the clutch lever for loose connections, excessive play, bends, Chapter 6). Make sure the drain pan is under the filter, then loosen the
and other damage. Replace any damaged parts with new ones (see oil filter using a strap wrench or the Honda service tool. Warning: Take
Chapter 2). great care not to burn your hands on the exhaust system. Unscrew the
filter from the engine unit and empty its contents into the drain pan. If
2 On 1985 1100 Sabres and 1985/86 1100 Magna models, measure
additional maintenance is planned for this time period, check or service
the freeplay at the ball end of the clutch lever. Assuming that there is
another component while the oil is allowed to drain completely.
no air in the hydraulic system, resulting in a spongy feel to the lever
6 Clean the filter thread and housing on the crankcase with solvent or
(see below), the lever should move 20 to 30 mm before the clutch
clean shop towels. Wipe any remaining oil off the filter sealing area of
disengages. If outside of this measurement, adjust using the knurled
the crankcase.
ring at the lever pivot, noting that the index mark on the ring must align
7 Slip a new sealing washer over the drain plugs. Fit them to the oil
with the arrow stamped in the top of the lever. Start the engine and
check that the clutch disengages and engages smoothly, without slip or
drag.
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-11

10.4a Engine oil drain plug in oil pan and oil filter (arrows) 10.4b Engine oil drain plug in front cylinder bank
pan and front cylinder and tighten to the specified torque setting. Avoid
bvertightening, as damage will result. 11 Final drive unit - oil change
8 Apply a smear of clean oil to the sealing ring of the new filter and
screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand. If 1 Place the motorcycle on its stand, and position a drain tray beneath
access to the special Honda oil filter tool can be gained, the filter the drain plug in the base of the final drive unit. Remove the plug and
should be tightened to the specified torque setting. allow the oil to drain - allow 10 minutes or so for the oil to drain fully,
9 Before refilling the engine, check the old oil carefully. If the oil was then install the drain plug and tighten it securely (see illustration 3.29).
drained into a clean pan, small pieces of metal or other material can be 2 Remove the large oil filler cap from the rear of the unit, and fill with
easily detected. If the oil is very metallic colored, then the engine is the specified type and quantity of oil. Wait a few minutes for the oil
experiencing wear from break-in (new engine) or from insufficient level to settle then check it as described in Section 3, adjusting the
lubrication. If there are flakes or chips of metal in the oil, then level accordingly. Install the oil filler cap.
something is drastically wrong internally and the engine will have to be
disassembled for inspection and repair.
10 If there are pieces of fiber-like material in the oil, the clutch is
experiencing excessive wear and should be checked.
12 Air filter element - cleaning and replacement
11 If inspection of the oil turns up nothing unusual, refill the crankcase
to the proper level with the recommended type and amount of oil and 1982 750 Sabre
install the filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for two or three
minutes. Shut it off, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level. If Refer to illustrations 12.1 and 12.3
necessary, add more oil to bring the level up to the upper mark. Check 1 Pry out the plastic caps that cover the air cleaner cover screws. Do
around the drain plugs and filter for leaks. this on both the left and right air cleaners (see illustration).
12 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be re-used and should 2 Remove the cover screws and lift off the covers. Recover their
be disposed of properly. Check with your local refuse disposal sealing rings.
company, disposal facility or environmental agency to see whether they 3 Remove the nuts and washers that retain the air filter elements and
will accept the used oil for recycling. Don't pour used oil into drains or lift them out. Remove the plastic frames from inside of the foam
onto the ground. After the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a elements (see illustration).
suitable container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons, 4 Wash each element thoroughly in clean solvent, then dry it with
etc.) for transport to one of these disposal sites. clean rags. Wipe out the housings with a clean rag.

12.1 Pry out caps to reveal air filter cover screws on 1982 Sabre 12.3 Separate element from frame for cleaning on 1982 Sabre
1-12 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

5 Soak the clean elements in SAE 80-90 gear oil, then squeeze
out as much of the oil as possible (do not wring the element). Hang
the elements up and allow any excess oil to drip out - they must
not be saturated with oil.
6 Install the filters by reversing the removal steps. Ensure the
cover sealing rings are in place and apply a light smear of grease
to them.

1983-on 700/750 and all 1100 Sabre models

7 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
8 Remove the two air filter cover screws, lift off the cover with its
sealing ring and lift out the element together with its support
frames. Separate the support frames from the element.
9 Wash the element thoroughly in clean solvent, then dry it with
clean rags. Wipe out the housing with a clean rag.
10 Soak the clean element in SAE 80-90 gear oil, then squeeze
out as much of the oil as possible (do not wring the element). Hang
the element up and allow any excess oil to drip out - it must not be
saturated with oil.
11 Install the filter by reversing the removal steps. Ensure the
cover sealing ring is in place and apply a light smear of grease to
it.

Magna models
Refer to illustration 12.14
12 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4); on 1100 models and
early 700/750 models, it can be raised on its support rod if less
than half full.
13 On 1985 through 1988 700/750 models, release their retaining
screws and remove the plastic covers from each side of the frame
deadstock. On 1985/86 700 models remove the fresh air intake
cover from the front of the air filter.
14 Remove the air cleaner cover screws, lift off the cover and its
sealing ring (see illustration). Lift out the paper filter and tap it on
a solid surface to dislodge any dirt and dust.
15 If compressed air is available, use it to remove dirt and dust
from the element by blowing from the inside outwards. Wipe out
the housing with a clean rag.
16 Replace the paper element with a new one at the required
intervals, regardless of its apparent condition.
17 Install the new filter by reversing the removal steps. Ensure the 12.14 Remove air cleaner cover (1) screws (2) to access element
cover sealing ring is in place and apply a smear of grease to it. If (3) on Magna models
removed, install the fuel tank as described in Chapter 4.
13 Cylinder compression - check

1 Among other things, poor engine performance may be caused by to the specified amount, you can assume the engine upper end is
leaking valves, incorrect valve clearances, a leaking head gasket, in reasonably good mechanical condition. Worn or sticking piston
or worn pistons, rings and/or cylinder walls. A cylinder rings and worn cylinders will produce very little initial movement of
compression check will help pinpoint these conditions and can also the gauge needle, but compression will tend to build up gradually
indicate the presence of excessive carbon deposits in the cylinder as the engine spins over. Valve and valve seat leakage, or head
heads. gasket leakage, is indicated by low initial compression which does
2 The only tools required are a compression gauge and a spark not tend to build up.
plug wrench. Depending on the outcome of the initial test, a squirt- 10 To further confirm your findings, add a small amount of engine
type oil can may also be needed. oil to each cylinder by inserting the nozzle of a squirt-type oil can
3 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating through the spark plug holes. The oil will tend to seal the piston
temperature, then stop it. rings if they are leaking. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.
4 Place the motorcycle on its stand. 11 If the compression increases significantly after the addition of
5 Remove the spark plugs as described in Section 14. Caution: Work the oil, the piston rings and/or cylinders are definitely worn. If the
carefully - don't strip the spark plug hole threads and don't burn your compression does not increase, the pressure is leaking past the
hands on the hot cylinder head. valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be due to
6 Disable the ignition by switching the kill switch to OFF. insufficient valve clearances, burned, warped or cracked valves or
7 Install the compression gauge in one of the spark plug holes and valve seats, or valves that are hanging up in the guides.
place a rag over the other three plug holes as a precaution against 12 If the compression readings are considerably higher than
fire risk. specified, the combustion chambers are probably coated with
8 Hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine over a excessive carbon deposits. It is possible (but not very likely) for
minimum of four or five revolutions (or until the gauge reading carbon deposits to raise the compression enough to compensate
stops increasing) and observe the initial movement of the for the effects of leakage past rings or valves. Use of a fuel additive
compression gauge needle as well as the final total gauge reading. that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinders and compare the crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.
results to the value listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Otherwise, the cylinder head(s) will have to be removed and
9 If the compression in all four cylinders built up quickly and decarbonized (Chapter 2).
evenly
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-13

14.2 Use the correct size tool when removing spark plugs 14.6a Using a wire type gauge to measure the spark plug gap

14 Spark plugs - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 14.2, 14.6a and 14.6b

1 All models are equipped with spark plugs which have 12 mm threads
and an 18 mm hex. Make sure that your spark plug wrench or socket is
the correct size before attempting to remove the plugs.
2 Disconnect the spark plug caps from the spark plugs. If available,
use compressed air to blow any accumulated debris from around the
spark plugs. Remove the plugs and lay them out in relation to their
cylinder number; if any plug shows up a problem it will then be easy to
identify the troublesome cylinder (see illustration).
3 Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the center and side electrodes
should have square edges and the side electrode should be of uniform
thickness. Look for excessive deposits and evidence of a cracked or
chipped insulator around the center electrode. Compare your spark
plugs to the color spark plug reading chart. Check the threads, the
washer and the ceramic insulator body for cracks and other damage.
4 If the electrodes are not excessively worn, and if the deposits can be
easily removed with a wire brush, the plugs can be regapped and re-
used (if no cracks or chips are visible in the insulator). If in doubt
concerning the condition of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as 14.6b Bend the side electrode only to adjust spark plug gap
the expense is minimal.
5 Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is permitted, provided you
clean the plugs with a high flash-point solvent afterwards.
6 Before installing new plugs, make sure they are the correct type and additional 1/4 turn. Regardless of the method used, do not over-tighten
heat range. Check the gap between the electrodes, as they are not them. 9 Reconnect the spark plug caps.
preset. For best results, use a wire-type gauge rather than a flat (feeler)
gauge to check the gap. If the gap must be adjusted, bend the side
electrode only and be very careful not to chip or crack the insulator 15 Lubrication - general
nose (see illustrations). Make sure the washer is in place before
installing each plug. Refer to illustration 15.3
7 Since the cylinder head is made of aluminum, which is soft and easily 1 Since the controls, cables and various other components of a
damaged, thread the plugs into the heads by hand. Since the plugs are motorcycle are exposed to the elements, they should be lubricated
recessed, slip a short length of hose over the end of the plug to use as periodically to ensure safe and trouble-free operation.
a tool to thread it into place. The hose will grip the plug well enough to 2 The footpegs, clutch and brake lever, brake pedal, shift lever and
turn it, but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread in the hole - side and main stand pivots should be lubricated frequently. In order for
this will prevent damaged threads and the resultant repair costs. the lubricant to be applied where it will do the most good, the
8 Once the plugs are finger-tight, the job can be finished with a socket. component should be disassembled. However, if chain and cable
If a torque wrench is available, tighten the spark plugs to the specified lubricant is being used, it can be applied to the pivot joint gaps and will
torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If you do not have a usually work its way into the areas where friction occurs. If motor oil or
torque wrench, tighten the plugs finger-tight (until the washers bottom light grease is being used, apply it sparingly as it may attract dirt (which
on the cylinder head) then use a wrench to tighten them an could cause the controls to bind or wear at an accelerated rate). Note:
One of the best lubricants for the control lever pivots is a dry-film lubricant
(available from many sources by different names).
1-14 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

15.3 Lubricating a cable with a pressure lube adapter (make sure 16.6 Align TDC mark with crankcase rear joint when checking
the tool seats around the inner cable) valve clearances (mark for cylinders 1 and 3 shown)
3 To lubricate the cables, disconnect the relevant cable at its upper subframe, disconnect the radiator side mountings and wiring,
end, then lubricate the cable with a pressure lube adapter (see disconnect the top and bottom hoses and pivot the radiator forwards
illustration). See Chapter 4 for the choke and throttle cable removal about its top mounting point; tie it to the forks out of the way of the front
procedures, and Chapter 2 for clutch cable removal details. cylinder (see Section 20).
4 The speedometer cable should be removed from its housing and 4 Remove all four spark plugs.
lubricated with motor oil or cable lubricant. Do not lubricate the upper 5 Remove the valve cover bolts and lift off both valve covers, plus the
few inches of the cable as the lubricant may travel up into the rear cylinder valve cover base (see Chapter 2).
speedometer head. 6 Remove the alternator cover from the left side of the engine. Note
that oil will run from the cover so have a drain tray positioned to catch
the oil. Wipe any oil off the alternator rotor. Rotate the crankshaft end
16 Valve clearances - check and adjustment bolt clockwise until the T1.3 mark on the rotor aligns exactly with the
casing rear joint (see illustration).
7 With the T1.3 mark positioned as described, the rear cylinders are at
1 The engine must be completely cool for this maintenance procedure, TDC. Check whether cylinder No 1 is on compression (all four valves
so let the machine sit overnight before beginning. closed) and if not, rotate the crankshaft one full turn to realign the T1.3
2 Place the motorcycle on its stand. Remove the fuel tank (see mark. Carry out the valve clearance check on No 1 cylinder's valves.
Chapter 4). Remove the side covers (see Chapter 6). 8 Using two feeler blades of the correct thickness (see Specifications),
insert them between each valve stem end and its adjuster screw tip of
All models except 1986 through 1988 700/750 the rocker and check that they are a firm sliding fit (see illustration).
Magnas Note: It is important that two feeler blades are used to prevent twisting
Refer to illustrations 16.6, 16.8 and 16.9 of the rocker arm and subsequently incorrect readings.
9 If the feeler blades are not a firm sliding fit, loosen the locknut on the
3 Drain the coolant (see Section 20) and remove the radiator (See
adjusting screws and turn the adjusting screw in or out to obtain the
Chapter 3). On the 1986 1100 Magna model it is possible to shut off
correct clearance. Hold the adjuster screw still screw while the locknut
the tap at the radiator bottom hose union, having released coolant
is tightened, then recheck the clearance to ensure that it has
pressure by momentarily loosening the coolant drain plug set in the

16.8 Measuring the valve clearances (both valves should be 16.9 Adjusting the valve clearances
checked at the same time)
Common spark plug conditions
NORMAL
Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight
electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and
operating conditions.
Recommendation: When new spark plugs are
installed, replace with plugs of the same heat
range.

WORN TOO HOT

Symptoms: Blistered, white insu-
Symptoms: Rounded electrodes lator, eroded electrode and
with a small amount of deposits on absence of deposits. Results in
the firing end. Normal color. Causes shortened plug life.
hard starting in damp or cold Recommendation: Check for the
weather and poor fuel economy. correct plug heat range, over-
Recommendation: Plugs have advanced ignition timing, lean fuel
been left in the engine too long. mixture, intake manifold vacuum
Replace with new plugs of the same leaks, sticking valves and insuffi-
heat range. Follow the rec- cient engine cooling.
ommended maintenance schedule.

PREIGNlTION
CARBON DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Melted electrodes.
Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits Insulators are white, but may be
indicate a rich mixture or weak igni- dirty due to misfiring or flying
tion. Causes misfiring, hard starting debris in the combustion chamber.
and hesitation. Can lead to engine damage.
Recommendation: Make sure the Recommendation: Check for the
plug has the correct heat range. correct plug heat range, over-
Check for a clogged air filter or advanced ignition timing, lean fuel
problem in the fuel system or mixture, insufficient engine cooling
engine management system. Also and lack of lubrication.
check for ignition system problems.

ASH DEPOSITS HIGH SPEED GLAZING

Symptoms: Light brown deposits Symptoms: Insulator has yellow-
encrusted on the side or center ish, glazed appearance. Indicates
electrodes or both. Derived from oil that combustion chamber temper-
and/or fuel additives. Excessive atures have risen suddenly during
amounts may mask the spark, hard acceleration. Normal deposits
causing misfiring and hesitation
melt to form a conductive coating.
during acceleration.
Causes misfiring at high speeds.
Recommendation: If excessive
Recommendation: Install new
deposits accumulate over a short
plugs. Consider using a colder plug
time or low mileage, install new
valve guide seals to prevent seep- if driving habits warrant.
age of oil into the combustion
chambers. Also try changing gaso-
line brands. DETONATION
Symptoms: Insulators may be
cracked or chipped. Improper gap
OIL DEPOSITS setting techniques can also result
Symptoms: Oily coating caused by in a fractured insulator tip. Can
poor oil control. Oil is leaking past lead to piston damage.
worn valve guides or piston rings Recommendation: Make sure the
into the combustion chamber. fuel anti-knock values meet engine
Causes hard starting, misfiring and requirements. Use care when set-
hesitation. ting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid
Recommendation: Correct the lugging the engine.
mechanical condition with neces-
sary repairs and install new plugs.
MECHANICAL DAMAGE
Symptoms: May be caused by a
foreign object in the combustion
GAP BRIDGING chamber or the piston striking an
Symptoms: Combustion deposits incorrect reach (too long) plug.
lodge between the electrodes. Causes a dead cylinder and could
Heavy deposits accumulate and result in piston damage.
bridge the electrode gap. The plug Recommendation: Repair the
ceases to fire, resulting in a dead mechanical damage. Remove the
cylinder. foreign object from the engine
Recommendation: Locate the and/or install the correct reach
faulty plug and remove the deposits plug.
from between the electrodes.
1-16 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

not altered (see illustration). Note: A Honda service tool is available

which allows the adjuster screw to be held securely while the locknut is
tightened. Carry out the check on the other pair of valves.
10 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the T2.4 mark is aligned
with the rear crankcase joint, then all clearances on No 2 cylinder.
11 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the T1.3 mark once
again and check the valves of No 3 cylinder.
12 Rotate the crankshaft further clockwise and align the T2.4
mark, then check the valves of No 4 cylinder.
13 When all clearances have been checked and if necessary
adjusted, install the valve covers (see Chapter 2).
14 Fit a new gasket to the left side engine cover, install the cover
and tighten its bolts securely. Top up the engine oil.
15 Install the spark plugs.
16 Install the radiator (see Chapter 3) and refill the cooling system
with fresh coolant and bleed it of air (see Section 20). On 1986
1100 Magna models, reconnect the radiator (see Chapter 3) and
check that its hoses are securely clamped. Turn the radiator tap to
ON. Check the level of coolant, topping it up if necessary. Bleed
the cooling system of air (see Section 20).
17 Install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 17.3 Idle speed adjuster (arrow)
18 Start the engine and check that there is no sign of oil leakage
from the valve covers.
17 Idle speed - check and adjustment
1986 through 1988 700/750 Magna models
19 Shut off the tap at the radiator bottom hose union and release Refer to illustration 17.3
coolant pressure by momentarily loosening the coolant drain plug 1 The idle speed should be checked and adjusted before and after
set in the subframe. Disconnect the radiator side mountings and its the carburetors are synchronized and when it is obviously too high
top and bottom hoses, disconnect its wiring, then pivot the radiator or too low. Before adjusting the idle speed, make sure the valve
forwards about its top mounting point; tie it to the forks out of the clearances and spark plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the
way of the front cylinder (see Section 20). handlebars back-and-forth and see if the idle speed changes as
20 On 1987 and 1988 models, pull off its wires and unbolt the horn this is done. If it does, the throttle cables may not be adjusted
from the left frame tube. correctly, or may be worn out. This is a dangerous condition that
21 Remove all four spark plugs. can cause loss of control of the bike. Be sure to correct this
22 Remove the valve cover bolts and lift off both valve covers, plus problem before proceeding.
the rear cylinder valve cover base (see Chapter 2). 2 The engine should be at normal operating temperature, which is
23 Remove the alternator cover from the left side of the engine. usually reached after 10 to 15 minutes of stop and go riding. Place
Note that oil will run from the cover so have a drain tray positioned the motorcycle on its stand and make sure the transmission is in
to catch the oil. Neutral.
24 Rotate the crankshaft by turning the alternator rotor bolt in a 3 Turn the idle speed screw, located at the base of the No 1
clockwise direction until the intake cam lobes of No 3 cylinder (see cylinder carburetor until the idle speed listed in this Chapter's
illustration 1.1 in Chapter 2 for cylinder identification) are at Specifications is obtained (see illustration).
maximum lift (valves fully depressed). In this position, check the 4 Snap the throttle open and shut a few times, then recheck the
clearances on the intake valves of cylinder No 1. idle speed. If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.
25 Check and adjust the valve clearances as described in Steps 8 5 If a smooth, steady idle can't be achieved, the fuel/air mixture
and 9 above. may be incorrect. Refer to Chapter 4 for additional carburetor
26 Rotate the alternator bolt further clockwise until the intake cam information.
lobes of No 1 cylinder are at maximum lift, then check the
clearances of No 3 intake valves.
27 Rotate the alternator bolt clockwise until the exhaust cam lobes 18 Carburetor synchronization - check and adjustment
of No 3 cylinder are at maximum lift, then check the clearances of
No 1 exhaust valves. Further rotate the crankshaft until the No 1
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra
exhaust cam lobes are a maximum lift and check the clearances of
precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or
No 3 exhaust valves.
allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work
28 Repeat the same procedure to check the clearances of the front
in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater
cylinders (Nos 2 and 4).
or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
29 When all clearances have been checked and if necessary
immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work
adjusted, install the valve covers (see Chapter 2).
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher
30 Fit a new gasket to the left side engine cover, install the cover
suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
and tighten its bolts securely. Top up the engine oil.
1 Carburetor synchronization is simply the process of adjusting the
31 Install the spark plugs.
carburetors so they pass the same amount of fuel/air mixture to
32 Reconnect the radiator (see Chapter 3) and check that its
each cylinder. This is done by measuring the vacuum produced in
hoses are securely clamped. Turn the radiator tap to ON. Check
each cylinder. Carburetors that are out of synchronization will result
the level of coolant, topping it up if necessary. Bleed the cooling
in decreased fuel mileage, increased engine temperature, less than
system of air (see Section 20).
ideal throttle response and higher vibration levels.
33 Install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
2 To properly synchronize the carburetors, you will need some sort
34 Start the engine and check that there is no sign of oil leakage
of vacuum gauge setup, preferably with a gauge for each cylinder,
from the valve covers.
or a mercury manometer, which is a calibrated tube arrangement
that utilizes columns of mercury to indicate engine vacuum.
3 A manometer can be purchased from a motorcycle dealer or
accessory shop and should have the necessary screw-in adaptors
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-17

18.8 Carburetor synchronization adapter plugs are located in 18.12 Synchronization screw for No 3 carburetor (arrow)
intake tracts (arrow)
supplied with it for hooking into the intake tract of the engine. the vacuum readings vary, adjust as necessary. First locate the
4 A vacuum gauge setup can also be purchased from a dealer or adjusting screws; the adjusting screw for No 3 carburetor is next to the
fabricated from commonly available hardware and automotive vacuum throttle stop screw, whereas those for Nos 2 and 4 carburetors are
gauges. located in-between the carburetor bodies - all are accessed from
5 The manometer is the more reliable and accurate instrument, and for underneath (see illustration). Note: Wo 1 carburetor has no
that reason is preferred over the vacuum gauge setup; however, since adjustment screw and should be regarded as the base setting.
the mercury used in the manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic, 13 Adjust each screw until all carburetors are synchronized, then open
extra precautions must be taken during use and storage of the and close the throttle quickly to settle the linkage and recheck the
instrument. gauge readings, re-adjusting if necessary. Note: Do not press down on
6 Because of the nature of the synchronization procedure and the need the screws while adjusting them, otherwise a false reading will be
for special instruments, most owners leave the task to a dealer service obtained.
department or a reputable motorcycle repair shop. 14 When the adjustment is complete, recheck the idle speed, then stop
7 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating the engine. Remove the vacuum gauge or manometer and adaptors,
temperature. Check the idle speed and adjust if necessary, then shut it then install the intake tract plugs. On 700/750 Sabres and 1987 and
off. 1988 700/750 Magnas, remove the clamp from the fuel valve line and
reconnect the line to the fitting on the No 1 (Sabre) or No 2 (Magna)
700/750 Sabres, 1987 and 1988 700/750 carburetor.
Magna models
Refer to illustration 18.8
8 On Sabre models, remove the plugs from the No 2, 3 and 4 cylinder
19 Cooling system - check
intake tracts, and on Magna models remove the plugs from the No 1, 3
and 4 cylinder intake tracts (see illustration). Install the vacuum gauge Warning: The engine must be cool before beginning this procedure.
or manometer adaptors into the intake tract plug holes, then hook up 1 Check the coolant level as described in Section 3.
the vacuum gauge set or the manometer according to the 2 The entire cooling system should be checked for evidence of
manufacturer's instructions. Make sure there are no air leaks in the set leakage. Examine each rubber coolant hose along its entire length.
up, as false readings will result. Look for cracks, abrasions and other damage. Squeeze each hose at
9 Start the engine and clamp the vacuum line running between the various points. They should feel firm, yet pliable, and return to their
automatic fuel valve and the No 1 (Sabre) or No 2 (Magna) cylinder original shape when released. If they are dried out or hard, replace
head intake tract, then stop the engine and disconnect the vacuum line them with new ones.
from the fitting on the cylinder head. Connect the remaining line from 3 Check for evidence of leaks at each cooling system joint. Tighten the
the vacuum gauge or manometer to this fitting. hose clips carefully to prevent future leaks. Similarly, check the coolant
crossover pipes between the cylinder banks, the coolant inlet pipe on
All other models the left side of the engine, and the subframe connections with the
10 Remove the plugs from the intake tracts on all cylinders, install the radiator and water pump short hose.
adaptors into the plug holes and connect up the vacuum gauges or 4 Check the radiator for leaks and other damage. Leaks in the radiator
manometer to the adaptors. Make sure there are no air leaks in the set leave telltale scale deposits or coolant stains on the outside of the core
up, as false readings will result. below the leak. If leaks are noted, remove the radiator (see Chapter 3)
and have it repaired at a radiator shop or replace it with a new one.
All models Caution: Do not use a liquid leak stopping compound to try to repair
leaks.
Refer to illustration 18.12 5 Check the radiator fins for mud, dirt and insects, which may impede
11 Start the engine and check that the idle speed is correct, adjusting it the flow of air through the radiator. If the fins are dirty, force water or
if necessary. If the gauges are fitted with damping adjustment, set this low pressure compressed air through the fins from the backside. If the
so that the needle flutter is just eliminated but so that they can still fins are bent or distorted, straighten them carefully with a screwdriver.
respond to small changes in pressure. 6 Remove the radiator cap by turning it counterclockwise
12 The vacuum readings for all of the cylinders should be the same, or (anticlockwise) until it reaches a stop. If you hear a hissing sound
at least within the tolerance listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If
1-18 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

20.2 Coolant drain plug in subframe (right arrow) and in water 20.4 Coolant drain plugs in engine case (arrows)
pump cover (left arrow)
(indicating there is still pressure in the system), wait until it stops. Now the subframe near the gearshift lever and remove the drain bolt to drain
press down on the cap and continue turning the cap until it can be the coolant from the radiator (see illustration).
removed. Check the condition of the coolant in the system. If it is rust- 3 Remove the radiator cap by turning it counterclockwise
colored or if accumulations of scale are visible, drain, flush and refill the (anticlockwise) until it reaches a stop. If you hear a hissing sound
system with new coolant (see Section 20). Check the cap seal for (indicating there is still pressure in the system), wait until it stops. Now
cracks and other damage. If in doubt about the pressure cap's press down on the cap and continue turning the cap until it can be
condition, have it tested by a dealer service department or replace it removed. As the cap is removed the flow of coolant will increase, be
with a new one. Install the cap by turning it clockwise until it reaches prepared for this.
the first stop then push down on the cap and continue turning until it 4 Drain coolant from the engine by removing the coolant drain bolt at
can turn further. the water pump and the two drain bolts in the front of the engine case
7 Check the antifreeze content of the coolant with an antifreeze (see illustration).
hydrometer. Sometimes coolant looks like it's in good condition, but 5 When the system is fully drained, replace all drain bolts.
might be too weak to offer adequate protection. If the hydrometer 6 Drain the coolant reservoir. Refer to Chapter 3 for reservoir removal
indicates a weak mixture, drain, flush and refill the system (see Section procedure. Wash out the reservoir with water and install it.
20).
8 Start the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature, then Flushing
check for leaks again. As the coolant temperature increases, the fan 7 Flush the system with clean tap water by inserting a garden hose in
should come on automatically and the temperature should begin to the radiator filler neck. Allow the water to run through the system until it
drop. If it does not, refer to Chapter 3 and check the fan and fan circuit is clear and flows cleanly out of both drain holes. If the radiator is
carefully. extremely corroded, remove it by referring to Chapter 3 and have it
9 If the coolant level is consistently low, and no evidence of leaks can cleaned at a radiator shop.
be found, have the entire system pressure checked by a Honda dealer 8 Clean the holes then install the drain bolts and sealing washers,
service department, motorcycle repair shop or service station. tightening them securely.
9 Fill the cooling system with clean water mixed with a flushing
compound. Make sure the flushing compound is compatible with
20 Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling aluminum components, and follow the manufacturer's instructions
carefully.
10 Start the engine and allow it reach normal operating temperature.
Warning: Allow the engine to cool completely before performing this Let it run for about ten minutes.
maintenance operation. Also, don't allow antifreeze to come into contact 11 Stop the engine. Let it cool for a while, then cover the pressure cap
with your skin or the painted surfaces of the motorcycle. Rinse off spills with a heavy shop towel and turn it counterclockwise (anticlockwise) to
immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. the first stop, releasing any pressure that may be present in the
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on system. Once the hissing stops, push down on the cap and remove it
the floor; children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell and may drink completely.
it. Check with local authorities (councils) about disposing of antifreeze. 12 Drain the system once again.
Many communities have collection centers which will see that antifreeze is 13 Fill the system with clean water and repeat the procedure in Steps
disposed of safely. Antifreeze is also combustible, so don't store it near 10 to 12.
open flames.
Refilling
Draining 14 Fit new sealing washers to the drain bolts and install them in the
Refer to illustrations 20.2 and 20.4 engine case, pump cover and subframe, tightening each one securely.
1 With the engine cold place the motorcycle on the main stand on level 15 Fill the system with the proper coolant mixture (see this Chapter's
ground. Where no main stand is fitted, ensure that the motorcycle is Specifications) until it is level with the lower edge of the filler neck.
supported in an upright position. Remove the belly fairing on 1987 and Filling it slowly will reduce the amount of air trapped in the system and
1988 700/750 Magna models (see Chapter 6) and on all models, lessen the time required to bleed it.
remove the engine rear cover on the left side (see Chapter 2). 16 Remove the rubber cap from the bleed nipple on the thermostat
2 Place a suitable container under the coolant drain bolt located in housing and attach a clear plastic hose to it. Place the other end into a
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-19

20.22 1986 through 1988 models have tap in radiator outlet 21.2 Remove plug to drain crankcase separator tank on
later models
clean container, such as the one used for draining the coolant. and remove the plug from its end (see illustration). After the deposits
17 Start the engine and let it idle until it reaches normal operating have drained, install the plug and secure the hose in its bracket. Note
temperature. Watch the level of the coolant in the radiator and if it that the crankcase breather is likely to require draining more often if the
drops, add more coolant. motorcycle is used at high speeds or in the rain. The transparent drain
18 Loosen the bleed nipple and observe the coolant running through hose will any build up to be seen at a glance.
the hose for air bubbles. Let the engine run until no more air bubbles 3 Check the crankcase breather hoses which run from the rear of the
can be seen in the coolant escaping the tube, then tighten the bleed crankcase to the separator tank and from the separator tank to the air
nipple. Keep checking the coolant level in the radiator, adding more filter housing. Replace them if cracked or damaged.
when necessary. The coolant emptied into the container can be poured 4 On 1100 models and later 700/750 Magnas, there is no drain hose
back into the radiator if the bleed nipple is temporarily tightened while facility on the crankcase breather. For the purpose of routine
this is being done. When the bleeding procedure is complete, stop the maintenance, check that the hoses from the breather to the crankcase
engine and fill the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck one more and air filter housing are not cracked or deteriorated and that they are
time, then reinstall the radiator cap. securely fastened to their unions. If the separator tank is suspected of
19 Check the level of coolant in the reservoir tank and, with the coolant blockage at any time, disconnect its hoses and drain off any fluid.
hot, fill it to the Upper mark. As a final step, ride the motorcycle for a
couple of miles and then recheck the coolant level one last time. Install
the engine rear cover and on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
also install the belly fairing. 22 Evaporative emission control system and Secondary air
20 Check the system for leaks and rectify them immediately. supply system (California models only) - check
21 Do not dispose of the old coolant by pouring it down the drain.
Instead pour it into a heavy plastic container, cap it tightly and take it 1 The Evaporative emission control system (installed from 1984-on)
into an authorized disposal site or service station - see Warning at the routes fuel vapors from the fuel system into the engine to be burned,
beginning of this Section. instead of letting them evaporate into the atmosphere. When the
engine isn't running, vapors are stored in a carbon canister. The
Radiator tap Secondary air supply system (installed from 1986-on) introduces fresh
Refer to illustration 20.22 air into the exhaust ports to promote the burning of any excess fuel
22 1986 through 1988 models are equipped with a tap at the radiator present in the exhaust gases, reducing that which passes into the
outlet union (see illustration). If the radiator requires removal for atmosphere. Both systems and their components are described in
access to the front cylinder components, full draining of the radiator and greater detail in Chapter 4.
lower coolant pipes can be avoided by shutting off the tap in the 2 Refer to Chapter 4 for component location details, and inspect the
direction indicated by its arrows. hoses between each system component, replacing them if split or
23 Having shut the tap, loosen and then tighten the coolant drain bolt in cracked. If any require replacement, take note of their exact routing
the subframe (see illustration 20.2) to release pressure. The radiator and connections before removal. Check the emission system canister
can be pivoted forwards about its top mounting after removal of the located on the subframe crosstube for cracks or damage.
side mounting bolts and disconnection of the radiator hoses.
24 On installation, ensure that all hose connections are securely made,
and open the radiator tap.
23 Exhaust system - check

21 Crankcase breather - check 1 Periodically check all of the exhaust system joints for leaks and loose
fasteners. The belly fairing will have to be removed to do this properly
on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models (see Chapter 6). If
Refer to illustration 21.2
tightening the fasteners fails to stop any leaks, replace the gaskets with
1 On 700/750 Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas, drain new ones (see Chapter 4).
any sludge from the crankcase breather tank at the specified interval. 2 The exhaust pipe flange nuts at the cylinder heads are especially
2 Disengage the drain hose from its bracket, hold it over a container prone to loosening, which could cause damage to the head. Check
them frequently and keep them tight.
1-20 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

24.4 Feeling for play in the steering head bearings 26.13 Fuel filter takes the form of a gauze element on 700/750
Sabres and 1987/88 Magnas
24 Steering head bearings - check and adjustment
Gearshift lever
1 This vehicle is equipped with caged taper-roller or caged ball type Footpegs, stand bolts
steering head bearings which can become dented, rough or loose Engine mounting bolts
during normal use of the machine. In extreme cases, worn or loose Shock absorber mounting bolts
steering head bearings can cause steering wobble - a condition that is Handlebar and triple clamp pinch bolts
potentially dangerous. Rear suspension linkage bolts (Sabres)
Front axle and clamp bolts
Check Rear axle nut and clamp bolt
Refer to illustration 24.4 Exhaust system bolts/nuts
2 To check the bearings, place the motorcycle on its main stand and 3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along with the torque specifi-
block the machine so the front wheel is in the air. On 1987 and 1988 cations at the beginning of this, or other, Chapters.
700/750 Magna models, block the vehicle under the crankcase so that
the front wheel is raised off the ground.
3 Point the wheel straight-ahead and slowly move the handlebars from 26 Fuel system - checks and filter replacement
side-to-side. Dents or roughness in the bearing races will be felt and
the bars will not move smoothly.
4 Next, grasp the fork sliders and try to move them forward and Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra
backward (see illustration). Any looseness in the steering head precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or
bearings will be felt as front-to-rear movement of the forks, although allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't
make sure that this is not due to worn fork bushings. If play is felt in the work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water
bearings, adjust the steering head as follows. heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any
Adjustment kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have, a fire
extinguisher suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
5 Refer to Chapter 6 'Steering stem - removal and installation' and
remove the upper triple clamp from the forks and steering stem. The
forks can remain in place, although the handlebars and instruments Check
must be removed. The upper triple clamp need only be raised 1 Check the fuel tank, the tank breather hose (not California models),
sufficiently to access the steering stem locknut and adjuster nuts, so the fuel tap, the lines and the carburetors for leaks and evidence of
the ignition switch (1982 through 1986 models) can remain attached to damage.
the triple clamp if the wiring will allow. 2 If the carburetor gaskets are leaking, the carburetors should be
6 Free the lockwasher tabs from the steering stem locknut and adjuster disassembled and rebuilt by referring to Chapter 4.
nut, remove the locknut and lockwasher, then carry out adjustment of 3 If the fuel tap is leaking, tightening the retaining nut may help but if
the adjuster nut as described under the installation sub-Section of leakage persists, the tap should be disassembled and repaired or
Section 10, Chapter 6. replaced with a new one (see Chapter 4).
7 After adjustment, check that all steering play has been removed as 4 If the fuel lines are cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace them
described above. with new ones.
5 On 700/750 Sabres and 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas, check the
vacuum line connecting the fuel diaphragm valve to No 1 (Sabre) or No
25 Fasteners - check 2 (Magna) cylinder intake tract. If it is cracked or otherwise damaged,
replace it with a new one.

1 Since vibration of the machine tends to loosen fasteners, all nuts, Filter replacement (1982 through 1986 Magnas
bolts, screws, etc. should be periodically checked for proper tightness.
2 Pay particular attention to the following: and 1100 Sabres)
Spark plugs Engine oil drain plugs 6 An in-line fuel filter is fitted, which must be replaced at the specified
interval.
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-21

700/750 Magna models style and load carried.

7 On 1982 through 1984 Magnas, remove the right side cover and turn 6 Fork oil replacement is not specified as a maintenance item, but fork
the fuel valve Off; the filter is located below the valve and to the rear of oil will degrade in time with loss of damping performance. Renew the
the battery. On later models turn the fuel valve on the tank Off, then oil periodically (see Chapter 6).
remove the left side cover; the fuel filter is located just above the fuel
pump. Rear suspension
8 Release the filter from its holder, clamp the fuel lines each side of the 7 Inspect the rear shock(s) for fluid leakage and tightness of the
filter, then release the hose clips and pull the hoses off the filter. mounting nuts. If leakage is found, the shock should be replaced.
9 Install the new filter in the same position as the original, push on the 8 Set the bike on its main stand, or support it securely where no main
hoses and secure with the clips. Clamp the filter in place, turn the fuel stand is fitted. Grab the swingarm on each side, just ahead of the axle.
valve On and check that there are no leaks. Rock the swingarm from side to side - there should be no discernible
movement at the rear. If there's a little movement or a slight clicking
1100 models can be heard, make sure the pivot shaft locknut is tight (see Chapter
10 On Sabre models, remove the right side cover (see Chapter 6) and 6). If the pivot nut is tight but movement is still noticeable, the
turn the fuel valve Off. On Magna models, remove the seat and left swingarm will have to be removed and the bearings replaced as
side cover (see Chapter 6). Turn the fuel valve Off. described in Chapter 6.
11 Release the single screw which retains the filter clamp to the fuel 9 Inspect the tightness of the rear suspension linkage nuts and bolts
valve mounting bracket (Sabre) or frame (Magna). Clamp the fuel lines on Sabre models.
each side of the filter, then release the hose clips and pull the hoses 10 Where applicable, check the preload and damping settings to
off the filter. ensure that they suit the riding style and load carried (see Chapter 6).
12 Install the new filter in the same position as the original, push on the
hoses and secure with the clips. Clamp the filter in place, turn the fuel
valve On and check that there are no leaks. 28 Stands - check

Filter cleaning (700/75O Sabres, 1987 and 1988 Refer to illustration 28.2
700/750 Magnas) 1 Check that the side and main stands are mounted securely and that
Refer to illustration 26.13 their return springs are not stretched or damaged.
13 A gauze type stack filter is fitted inside the fuel tank as part of the 2 The side stand has a wear pad attached to its foot which must be
fuel valve. Cleaning is not specified as a maintenance item, but if replaced when worn down to the wear line indicated by the moulded
problems with fuel restriction or fuel contamination are noted it should arrow (see illustration).
be removed for cleaning (see illustration).
14 Remove the fuel valve and clean the filter (see Chapter 4).

27 Suspension - check

Front suspension
1 The suspension components must be maintained in top operating
condition to ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged suspension
parts decrease the vehicle's stability and control.
2 While standing alongside the motorcycle, apply the front brake and
push on the handlebars to compress the forks several times. See if
they move up-and-down smoothly without binding. If binding is felt, the
forks should be disassembled and inspected as described in Chapter 6.
3 Carefully inspect the area around the fork seals for any signs of fork
oil leakage. If leakage is evident, the seals must be replaced as
described in Chapter 6.
4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts and bolts to be sure none
have worked loose.
5 Where applicable, check the fork air pressure, anti-dive setting and
damping setting (see Chapter 6) to ensure that they suit the riding 28.2 Side stand rubber wear limit is indicated by arrow
 2-1

Chapter 2
Engine, clutch and transmission
Note: Unless specifically mentioned in this Chapter, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Contents
Section Section
Alternator - removal and installation .............................................. 19 General information........................................................................ 1
Camchain tensioner and guides - removal and installation........... 8 Initial start-up after overhaul.......................................................... 33
Camchains and guides - inspection and replacement................... 26 Main and connecting rod bearings - general note......................... 27
Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection Major engine repair - general note................................................. 4
and installation.......................................................................... 9 Oil pan and strainer - removal and installation............................... 20
Clutch - removal, inspection and installation................................. 14 Oil pressure relief valve - removal, inspection and installation ...... 22
Clutch - bleeding............................................................. See Chapter 1 Oil pump - pressure check, removal, overhaul and installation .....
Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation .......... 15 21
Clutch slave cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation............. 16 Operations possible with the engine in the frame.......................... 2
Crankcase - inspection and servicing............................................ 25 Operations requiring engine removal............................................. 3
Crankcase - separation and reassembly ....................................... 24 Output gearcase: removal, inspection and installation.................. 23
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection, bearing Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal, inspection, bearing
selection, oil clearance check and installation ......................... 28 selection, oil clearance check and installation ......................... 29
Cylinder compression check........................................... See Chapter 1 Piston rings - installation................................................................ 30
Cylinder head and valves - disassembly, inspection Recommended break-in procedure............................................... 34
and reassembly......................................................................... 12 Shift drum and forks - removal, inspection and installation........... 32
Cylinder heads - removal and installation...................................... 10 Spark plugs - replacement.............................................. See Chapter 1
Engine - removal and installation................................................... 5 Starter motor - removal and installation.......................... See Chapter 8
Engine - oil and filter change........................................... See Chapter 1 Starter motor clutch and primary drive gear - removal, overhaul
Engine disassembly and reassembly - general information........... 6 and installation.......................................................................... 13
External gearshift mechanism - removal, inspection Transmission shafts - removal and installation.............................. 31
and installation.......................................................................... 17 Valve covers - removal and installation.......................................... 7
Gearshift lever - removal, and installation...................................... 18 Valves/valve seats/valve guides - servicing................................... 11
Water pump - removal and installation ........................... See Chapter 3
2-2 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

Specifications

General
Capacity
700 models......................................................................................... 699 cc (42.6 cu in)
750 models......................................................................................... 748 cc (45.6 cu in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 1098 cc (67 cu in)
Bore
700 and 750 models........................................................................... 70 mm (2.75 in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 79.5 mm (3.13 in)
Stroke
700 models......................................................................................... 45.4 mm (1.79 in)
750 models......................................................................................... 48.6 mm (1.9 in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 55.3 mm (2.18 in)
Compression ratio
700/750 models 1982 through 1986.................................................. 10.5 to 1
700/750 models 1987 and 1988 ........................................................ 10.2 to 1
1100 models....................................................................................... 10.5 to 1
Engine weight (dry) - approximate
700/750 models ................................................................................. 85 to 87 kg (187 to 192 Ibs)
1100 models....................................................................................... 97 kg (213 Ibs)

Camshafts
Cam lobe height - 1982 through 1984 700/750 models and all 1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 35.355 to 35.495 mm (1.3911 to
1.3974 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 35.3 mm (1.39 in)
Cam lobe height - 1985 and 1986 700 models
Standard............................................................................................. 35.243 to 35.403 mm (1.3875 to
1.3938 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 35.2 mm (1.39 in)
Cam lobe height - 1987 700 models
Standard............................................................................................. 35.063 to 35.223 mm (1.3804 to
1.3867 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 35.0 mm (1.38 in)
Cam lobe height - 1988 750 model (except California)
Standard............................................................................................. 34.845 to 35.005 mm (1.3718 to
1.3781 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 34.8 mm (1.37 in)
Cam lobe height - 1988 750 model (California)
Standard............................................................................................. 34.562 to 34.722 mm (1.3607 to
1.3670 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 34.5 mm (1.358 in)
Camshaft runout
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models...................................... Less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
All other models ................................................................................. Less than 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Camshaft bearing oil clearance -1982 through 1985 700/750 models
Center journal
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.030 to 0.091 mm (0.001 to 0.004
in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Inner and outer journals
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.50 to 0.111 mm (0.002 to 0.004 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.12 mm (0.005 in)
Camshaft bearing oil clearance -1100 models
Standard (all journals)......................................................................... 0.030 to 0.091 mm (0.001 to 0.004
in)
Service limit (all journals).................................................................... 0.095 mm (0.0037 in)
Camshaft journal OD -1986 through 1988 700/750 Magna models
Outer journal (A)
Standard ....................................................................................... 23.949 to 23.970 mm (0.9429 to
0.9437 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 23.89 mm (0.941 in)
Center and inner journals (B and C)
Standard ....................................................................................... 23.861 to 23.882 mm (0.9394 to
0.9402 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 23.80 mm (0.937 in)
Camshaft bearing holder ID - 1986 through 1988 700/750 Magna
models Intake
Standard ....................................................................................... 24.000 to 24.021 mm (0.9449 to
0.9457 in)
 Service limit................................................................................... 24.05 mm (0.947 in)
Exhaust
Standard ....................................................................................... 24.000 to 24.084 mm (0.9449 to
0.9482 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 24.11 mm (0.949 in)
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-3

Camshaft bearing oil clearance - 1986 through 1988 700/750 Magna models
Outer journal (A) - intake and exhaust
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.030 to 0.072 mm (0.0012 to 0.0028 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Center and inner journals (B and C) - intake
Standard....................................................................................... 0.118 to 0.160 mm (0.0046 to 0.0063 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
Center and inner journals (B and C) - exhaust
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.118 to 0.223 mm (0.0046 to 0.0088 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.25 mm (0.010 in)
Camchain length (at 13 kg/29 Ibs)
All 700/750 Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas
Standard ....................................................................................... 323.85 to 324.30 mm (12.750 to 12.767 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 326.12 (12.84 in)
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models
Standard ....................................................................................... 342.90 to 343.35 mm (13.500 to 13.518 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 340.50 (13.405 in)
1100 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 361.95 to 362.40 mm (14.250 to 14.269 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 364.90 mm (14.37 in)

Rocker arms
Rocker arm bore diameter
Standard............................................................................................. 12.000 to 12.018 mm (0.4724 to 0.4731 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 12.05 mm (0.474 in)
Rocker arm shaft outer diameter
Standard............................................................................................. 11.966 to 11.984 mm (0.4711 to 0.4718 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 11.93 mm (0.470 in)

Cylinder head
Maximum warpage
All 700/750 Sabres, 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models ..... 0.25 mm (0.010 in)
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models...................................... 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

Valves, guides and springs

Intake valve stem OD
Standard............................................................................................. 5.475 to 5.490 mm (0.2156 to 0.2161 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 5.47 mm (0.215 in)
Exhaust valve stem OD
Standard............................................................................................. 5.455 to 5.470 mm (0.2148 to 0.2154 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 5.45 mm (0.214 in)
Valve guide ID - intake and exhaust
Standard............................................................................................. 5.500 to 5.515 mm (0.2165 to 0.2171 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 5.55 mm (0.219 in)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance
Intake
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.010 to 0.040 mm (0.0004 to 0.0016 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.08 mm (0.003 in)
Exhaust
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.030 to 0.060 mm (0.0012 to 0.0024 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Valve seat width - intake and exhaust
Standard............................................................................................. 0.99 to 1.27 mm (0.039 to 0.050 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Valve spring free length - all 700/750 Sabre models, 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models
Inner spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 40.70 mm (1.60 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 39.35 mm (1.55 in)
Outer spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 43.90 mm (1.73 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 42.43 mm (1.67 in)
Valve spring free length - 1985 through 1987 700 Magna models
Inner spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 39.49 mm (1.555 in)
Service limit.............................;..................................................... 38.19 mm (1.504 in)
Outer spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 44.61 mm (1.756 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 43.14 mm (1.698 in)
2-4 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

Valves, guides and springs (continued)

Valve spring free length - 1988 750 Magna model
Inner spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 41.43 mm (1.631 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 40.13 mm (1.580 in)
Outer spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 45.31 mm (1.784 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 43.84 mm (1.726 in)
Valve spring free length - 1100 models
Inner spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 40.85 mm (1.608 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 39.45 mm (1.553 in)
Outer spring
Standard ....................................................................................... 44.50 mm (1.752 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 43.10 mm (1.70 in)

Clutch
Friction plate thickness
Standard............................................................................................. 3.72 to 3.88 mm (0.147 to 0.153 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 3.5 mm (0.14 in)
Plain plate maximum warpage ................................................................ 0.3 mm (0.012 in)
Clutch spring free length - except 1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 35.5 mm (1.40 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 34.0 mm (1.34 in)
Clutch diaphragm spring free height - 1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models
Standard - 750 model ........................................................................ 3.9 mm (0.15 in)
Standard - 1100 models .................................................................... 4.6 mm (0.18 in)
Service limit - all models.................................................................... 3.6 mm (0.14 in)
Outer guide inner diameter - 700/750 models
Standard............................................................................................. 24.995 to 25.012 mm (0.9841 to 0.9847 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 25.08 mm (0.987 in)
Outer guide inner diameter - 1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 29.995 to 30.012 mm (1.1809 to 1.1816 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 30.08 mm (1.184 in)
One-way clutch inner piece outer diameter - 1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 57.755 to 57.768 mm (2.2738 to 2.2743 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 57.74 mm (2.273 in)
Outer center inner diameter -1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 74.414 to 74.440 mm (2.9296 to 2.9307 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 74.50 mm (2.933 in)
Master cylinder bore diameter - 700/750 models
Standard............................................................................................. 14.000 to 14.043 mm (0.5512 to 0.5528 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 14.06 mm (0.554 in)
Master cylinder piston diameter - 700/750 models
Standard............................................................................................. 13.957 to 13.984 mm (0.5495 to 0.5506 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 13.94 mm (0.549 in)
Master cylinder bore diameter -1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 15.870 to 15.913 mm (0.6248 to 0.6265 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 15.93 mm (0.627 in)
Master cylinder piston diameter -1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 15.827 to 15.854 mm (0.6231 to 0.6242 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 15.80 mm (0.622 in)
Slave cylinder bore diameter
Standard............................................................................................. 38.100 to 38.162 mm (1.5000 to 1.5024 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 38.18 mm (1.503 in)
Slave cylinder piston diameter
Standard............................................................................................. 38.036 to 38.075 mm (1.4975 to 1.4990 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 38.02 mm (1.497 in)

Lubrication system
Oil pressure (at switch)
700/750 models ................................................................................. 64 ± 11 psi (4.4 ± 0.8 Bars) at 80°C/176°F
1100 models....................................................................................... 71 ± 10 psi (4.9 ± 0.7 Bars) at 80°C/176°F
Oil pump rotor tip-to-outer rotor clearance
Standard............................................................................................. 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
Oil pump outer rotor-to-body clearance
Standard............................................................................................. 0.15 to 0.22 mm (0.006 to 0.009 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.35 mm (0.014 in)
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-5

Oil pump rotor endfloat

Standard............................................................................................. 0.02 to 0.07 mm (0.001 to 0.003 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.10 mm (0.004 in)

Starter clutch
Driven gear OD - 700/750 models
Standard............................................................................................. 47.175 to 47.200 mm (1.8573 to 1.8583 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 47.16 mm (1.857 in)
Driven gear OD -1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 54.170 to 54.200 mm (2.1327 to 2.1339 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 54.16 mm (2.132 in)

Cylinder block
Cylinder bore ID
700/750 models
Standard....................................................................................... 70.000 to 70.015 mm (2.755 to 2.756 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 70.10 mm (2.76 in)
1100 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 79.500 to 79.515 mm (3.1299 to 3.1305 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 79.60 mm (3.134 in)
Maximum ovality (out-of-round)
700/750 models ................................................................................. 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Maximum taper........................................................................................ 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Cylinder-to-piston clearance................................................................... 0.010 to 0.055 mm (0.0004 to 0.0022 in)
Service limit............................................................................................. 0.10 mm (0.004 in)

Pistons
Piston OD (measured 11 mm up from base of skirt)
700/750 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 69.960 to 69.990 mm (2.754 to 2.755 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 69.85 mm (2.750 in)
1100 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 79.460 to 79.490 mm (3.1283 to 3.1295 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 79.35 mm (3.124 in)
Piston pin bore OD
700/750 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 18.002 to 18.008 mm (0.7087 to 0.7090 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 18.10 mm (0.71 in)
1100 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 20.002 to 20.008 mm (0.7875 to 0.7877 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 20.06 mm (0.790 in)
Piston pin OD
700/750 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 17.994 to 18.000 mm (0.7084 to 0.7086 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 17.98 mm (0.708 in)
1100 models
Standard....................................................................................... 19.994 to 20.000 mm (0.7872 to 0.7874 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 19.98 mm (0.787 in)
Piston-to-piston pin clearance
Standard............................................................................................. 0.002 to 0.014 mm (0.0001 to 0.0006 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.04 mm (0.002 in)

Piston rings
Ring-to-groove clearance (top and second rings)
Standard............................................................................................. 0.015 to 0.045 mm (0.0006 to 0.0018 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Top ring end gap
Standard
1982 750 model............................................................................ 0.10 to 0.30 mm (0.004 to 0.012 in)
1983-on 700/750 models.............................................................. 0.15 to 0.30 mm (0.006 to 0.012 in)
1100 models ................................................................................. 0.20 to 0.35 mm (0.008 to 0.014 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.5 mm (0.02 in)
Second ring end gap
Standard
1982 750 model............................................................................ 0.10 to 0.30 mm (0.004 to 0.012 in)
1983-on models............................................................................ 0.20 to 0.35 mm (0.008 to 0.014 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.5 mm (0.02 in)
2-6 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

Piston rings (continued)

Oil control ring side rail end gap
700/750 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.2 to 0.9 mm (0.008 to 0.035 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 1.1 mm (0.04 in)
1100 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.2 to 0.7 mm (0.008 to 0.028 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.9 mm (0.04 in)

Connecting rods and bearings

Connecting rod side clearance (all models)
Standard............................................................................................. 0.10 to 0.30 mm (0.004 to 0.012 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.4 mm (0.016 in)
Connecting rod piston pin bore ID
700/750 models
Standard....................................................................................... 18.016 to 18.034mm (0.7093 to 0.7100 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 18.08 mm (0.712 in)
1100 models
Standard ....................................................................................... 20.016 to 20.034 mm (0.7880 to 0.7887 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 20.08 mm (0.791 in)
Connecting rod crankpin bore ID - 700/750 models
Size group 1 ....................................................................................... 39.000 to 39.008 mm (1.5354 to 1.5357 in)
Size group 2 ....................................................................................... 39.008 to 39.016 mm (1.5357 to 1.5361 in)
Size group 3....................................................................................... 39.016 to 39.024 mm (1.5361 to 1.5364 in)
Connecting rod crankpin bore ID - 1100 models
Size group 1 ....................................................................................... 43.000 to 43.008 mm (1.6929 to 1.6932 in)
Size group 2....................................................................................... 43.008 to 43.016 mm (1.6932 to 1.6935 in)
Crankshaft crankpin OD - 700/750 models
Size groupA....................................................................................... 35.992 to 36.000 mm (1.4170 to 1.4173 in)
Size group B....................................................................................... 35.984 to 35.992 mm (1.4167 to 1.4170 in)
Size group C....................................................................................... 35.976 to 35.984 mm (1.4164 to 1.4167 in)
Crankshaft crankpin OD -1100 models
Size group A....................................................................................... 39.992 to 40.000 mm (1.5745 to 1.5748 in)
Size group B....................................................................................... 39.984 to 39.992 mm (1.5742 to 1.5745 in)
Connecting rod bearing oil clearance (all models)
Standard............................................................................................. 0.028 to 0.052 mm (0.0011 to 0.0020 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 0.08 mm (0.003 in)
Bearing insert thicknesses - 700/750 models
Blue .................................................................................................... 1.502 to 1.506 mm (0.0591 to 0.0593 in)
Black .................................................................................................. 1.498 to 1.502 mm (0.0590 to 0.0591 in)
Brown................................................................................................. 1.494 to 1.498 mm (0.0588 to 0.0590 in)
Green.................................................................................................. 1.490 to 1.494 mm (0.0587 to 0.0588 in)
Yellow................................................................................................. 1.486 to 1.490 mm (0.0585 to 0.0587 in)
Bearing insert thicknesses -1100 models
Brown................................................................................................. 1.494 to 1.498 mm (0.0588 to 0.0590 in)
Green ................................................................................................. 1.490 to 1.494 mm (0.0587 to 0.0588 in)
Yellow................................................................................................. 1.486 to 1.490 mm (0.0585 to 0.0587 in)

Crankshaft and main bearings

Maximum crankshaft runout.................................................................... 0.03 mm (0.001 in)
Crankcase main bearing bore ID - 700/750 models
Size group A....................................................................................... 39.000 to 39.008 mm (1.5354 to 1.5357 in)
Size group B....................................................................................... 39.008 to 39.016 mm (1.5357 to 1.5361 in)
Size group C....................................................................................... 39.016 to 39.024 mm (1.5361 to 1.5364 in)
Crankcase main bearing bore ID -1100 models
Size group I or 1................................................................................. 43.000 to 43.008 mm (1.6929 to 1.6932 in)
Size group II or 2................................................................................ 43.008 to 43.016 mm (1.6932 to 1.6935 in)
Crankshaft journal OD - 700/750 models
Size group 1 ....................................................................................... 35.992 to 36.000 mm (1.4170 to 1.4173 in)
Size group 2 ....................................................................................... 35.984 to 35.992 mm (1.4167 to 1.4170 in)
Size group 3....................................................................................... 35.976 to 35.984 mm (1.4164 to 1.4167 in)
Crankshaft journal OD -1100 models
Size group 1 ....................................................................................... 39.992 to 40.000 mm (1.5745 to 1.5748 in)
Size group 2 ....................................................................................... 39.984 to 39.992 mm (1.5742 to 1.5745 in)
Main bearing oil clearance
Standard............................................................................................. 0.028 to 0.052 mm (0.0011 to 0.0020 in)
Service limit (all models)..................................................................... 0.08 mm (0.003 in)
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-7

Bearing insert thicknesses - 700/750 models

Blue.................................................................................................... 1.506 to 1.510 mm (0.0593 to 0.0594 in)
Black .................................................................................................. 1.502 to 1.506 mm (0.0591 to 0.0593 in)
Brown................................................................................................. 1.498 to 1.502 mm (0.0590 to 0.0591 in)
Green.................................................................................................. 1.494 to 1.498 mm (0.0588 to 0.0590 in)
Yellow................................................................................................. 1.490 to 1.494 mm (0.0587 to 0.0588 in)
Bearing insert thicknesses -1100 models
Brown................................................................................................. 1.498 to 1.502 mm (0.0590 to 0.0591 in)
Green................................................................................................. 1.494 to 1.498 mm (0.0588 to 0.0590 in)
Yellow................................................................................................. 1.490 to 1.494 mm (0.0587 to 0.0588 in)

Transmission shafts
Ratios
1st...................................................................................................... 2.294 to 1
2nd
1986 1100 Magna......................................................................... 1.667 to 1
All other models............................................................................ 1.619 to 1
3rd
1986 1100 Magna......................................................................... 1.286to1
All other models............................................................................ 1.292 to 1
4th ...................................................................................................... 1.074 to 1
5th ...................................................................................................... 1.897 to 1
6th (overdrive)..................................................................................... 0.750 to 1
Gear backlash (except 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models)
1 st gear
Standard - 700/750 models.......................................................... 0.089 to 0.170 mm (0.0035 to 0.0066 in)
Standard -1100 models............................................................... 0.089 to 0.179 mm (0.0035 to 0.0070 in)
Service limit - all models............................................................... 0.24 mm (0.009 in)
2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th gears
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.068 to 0.136 mm (0.0027 to 0.0054 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.18 mm (0.007 in)
Gear inner diameter - 700/750 models
M5, M6, C2, C3 gears
Standard....................................................................................... 28.000 to 28.021 mm (1.1024 to 1.1032 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 28.04 mm (1.104 in)
C1 gear
Standard -1982 through 1986 ..................................................... 24.000 to 24.021 mm (0.9449 to 0.9457 in)
Standard - 1987 through 1988 ..................................................... 24.007 to 24.028 mm (0.9451 to 0.9459 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 24.04 mm (0.946 in)
C4 gear
Standard....................................................................................... 29.000 to 29.021 mm (1.1417 to 1.1426 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 29.04 mm (1.143 in)
Gear inner diameter -1100 models
M5, M6, C2, C3, C4 gears
Standard....................................................................................... 31.000 to 31.016 mm (1.2205 to 1.2211 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 31.18 mm (1.228 in)
Gear bushing outer diameter - 700/750 models
M5, M6, C2, C3 gears
Standard....................................................................................... 27.959 to 27.980 mm (1.1007 to 1.1016 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 27.94 mm (1.100 in)
C1 gear (except 1987 and 1988 models)
Standard ....................................................................................... 23.959 to 23.980 mm (0.9433 to 0.9441 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 23.94 mm (0.943 in)
C4 gear
Standard....................................................................................... 28.959 to 28.980 mm (1.1401 to 1.1409 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 28.94 mm (1.139 in)
Gear bushing outer diameter -1100 models
M5, M6, C2, C3, C4 gears
Standard....................................................................................... 30.950 to 30.975 mm (1.2185 to 1.2195 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 30.93 mm (1.218 in)
Gear bushing inner diameter - 700/750 models
M5, C4 gears
Standard ....................................................................................... 24.985 to 25.006 mm (0.9837 to 0.9845 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 25.04 mm (0.986 in)
C1 gear (except 1987 and 1988 models)
Standard ....................................................................................... 20.16 to 20.37 mm (0.7937 to 0.8019 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 20.40 mm (0.803 in)
2-8 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

Transmission shafts (continued)

Gear bushing inner diameter -1100 models
M5, C4 gears
Standard....................................................................................... 27.995 to 28.016 mm (1.1022 to 1.1030 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 28.05 mm (1.104 in)
Mainshaft outer diameter at M5 gear - 700/750 models
Standard............................................................................................. 24.959 to 24.980 mm (0.9826 to 0.9835 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 24.90 mm (0.980 in)
Countershaft outer diameter - 700/750 models
At C1 gear
Standard ....................................................................................... 19.98 to 19.993 mm (0.7866 to 0.7871 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 19.93 mm (0.785 in)
At C4 gear
Standard ....................................................................................... 24.959 to 24.980 mm (0.9826 to 0.9835 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 24.90 mm (0.980 in)
Mainshaft outer diameter at M5 gear and countershaft outer diameter at C4 gear - 1100 models
Standard............................................................................................. 27.977 to 27.990 mm (1.1015 to 1.1020 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 27.92 mm (1.099 in)
Gear to bushing or shaft clearance - 700/750 models
M5, M6, C1, C2, C3, C4 gears-to-bushing
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.020 to 0.062 mm (0.0008 to 0.0024 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
M5, C4 bushings-to-shaft
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.005 to 0.047 mm (0.0002 to 0.0019 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.06 mm (0.002 in)
C1 bushing-to-shaft (except 1987 and 1988 models)
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.167 to 0.390 mm (0.0066 to 0.0154 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Gear to bushing or shaft clearance -1100 models
M5, M6, C2, C3, C4 gears-to-bushing
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.025 to 0.066 mm (0.0010 to 0.0026 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
M5, C4 bushings-to-shaft
Standard ....................................................................................... 0.005 to 0.039 mm (0.0002 to 0.0015 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Countershaft spacer clearance (endfloat)
700/750 models ................................................................................. 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to 0.016 in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 0.4 to 0.9 mm (0.016 to 0.035 in)
Countershaft spacer available thicknesses
700/750 models except 1985-on Magnas......................................... 1.0 mm, 1.2 mm, 1.3 mm
1985 through 1988700/750 Magnas................................................. 0.85 mm, 0.90 mm, 0.95 mm, 1.05mm
1100 models....................................................................................... 0.85 mm, 0.90 mm, 0.95 mm, 1.0 mm, 1.05 mm

Shift drum and forks

Shift fork end thickness
Standard............................................................................................. 6.43 to 6.50 mm (0.253 to 0.256 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 6.1 mm (0.24 in)
Shift fork bore ID
Standard -1982 through 1985 models.............................................. 14.000 to 14.021 mm (0.5511 to 0.5520 in)
Standard - 1986-on models............................................................... 14.016 to 14.034 mm (0.5518 to 0.5525 in)
Service limit - all models.................................................................... 14.04 mm (0.553 in)
Shift fork shaft OD
Standard - 1986-on 700/750 models................................................. 13.973 to 13.984 mm (0.5501 to 0.5505 in)
Standard - all other models................................................................ 13.966 to 13.984 mm (0.5498 to 0.5505 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 13.90 mm (0.547 in)

Torque settings Mm ft-ibs

Valve cover bolts ..................................................................................... 8 to 12 6 to 9.0
Camshaft sprocket bolts ......................................................................... 18 to 20 13 to 14
Cylinder head/cam holder bolts
6 mm .................................................................................................. 10 to 14 7 to 10
8 mm .................................................................................................. 21 to 25 15 to 18
9 mm
1982 through 1984 700/750 models............................................. 33 to 37 24 to 27
1985 700 models.......................................................................... 38 to 42 27 to 30
1986 through 1988 700/750 models............................................. 43 to 47 31 to 34
10 mm (1100 models)......................................................................... 48 to 52 35 to 38
Rocker arm shaft bolts or caps............................................................... 45 to 50 33 to 36
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-9
Torque settings (continued) Mm n-ibs
Clutch center locknut
1982 750 models................................................................................ 47 to 53 34 to 38
1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabres, 1983/84 700/750 Magnas....... 45 to 55 33 to 40
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magnas................................................. 62 to 68 45 to 49
1100 models....................................................................................... 63 to 67 46 to 48
Clutch fluid line banjo bolts..................................................................... 25 to 35 18 to 25
Oil pump sprocket bolt (1985 through 1988
700/750 Magnas)............................................................................... 15 to 20 11 to 14
Starter clutch bolt.................................................................................... 80 to 100 58 to 72
Starter clutch cover bolts ........................................................................ 26 to 30 19 to 22
Alternator rotor bolt..........................................................:...................... 80 to 100 58 to 72
Output gear case bolts
6 mm bolts ......................................................................................... 10 to 14 7 to 10
Bearing holder bolts........................................................................... 30 to 34 22 to 25
8 mm standard/socket bolts.............................................................. 21 to 25 14 to 18
Crankcase bolts
6 mm bolts ......................................................................................... 10 to 14 7 to 10
8 mm bolts ......................................................................................... 21 to 25 15 to 18
9 mm bolts (700/750 models)............................................................. 30 to 34 22 to 25
10 mm bolts (1100 models)................................................................ 43 to 47 31 to 34
Connecting rod bearing cap nuts............................................................ 30 to 34 22 to 25
Engine oil drain bolt (in oil pan)................................................................ 35 to 40 25 to 29
Engine oil drain bolt (in front cylinders).................................................... 10 to 14 7 to 10
Oil pressure switch.................................................................................. 15 to 20 11 to 14
Engine mounting bolts
8 mm bolts (1982 through 1986 models............................................ 20 to 30 14 to 22
8 mm bolts (1987 and 1988 700/750 models)................................... 24 to 30 17 to 22
10 mm bolts ....................................................................................... 35 to 45 25 to 33
Subframe bolts (US 700/750 Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models)
8 mm bolts ......................................................................................... 20 to 30 14 to
22
10 mm upper bolts............................................................................. 70 to 80 51 to 58
10 mm lower bolts.............................................................................. 30 to 40 22 to 29
Subframe bolts (UK VF750S-C models)
8 mm bolts ......................................................................................... 20 to 30 14 to 22
10 mm bolts ....................................................................................... 60 to 70 43 to 51
Subframe bolts/nuts (1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models, all 1100 models)
Upper bolts......................................................................................... 60 to 70 43 to 51
Lower bolts......................................................................................... 35 to 45 25 to 33
2-10 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

General information
Refer to illustration 1.1
The engine is a four-stroke, liquid-cooled type with its four
cylinders arranged in a 90° V configuration. This particular design
is inherently smoother in its operation than in-line engines because
the movement of the pistons in both cylinder banks tends to
dampen out the other's vibrations. It also allows the engine to be
designed narrower and more compact (see illustration).
To prevent overheating problems in the rear cylinder bank, the
engine is liquid cooled. The coolant is circulated through passages
surrounding the cylinder liners and valve area.
Dual overhead cams in each cylinder bank are driven off the
crankshaft by link plate chains. The cams ride directly in the
cylinder heads and are secured by upper cam holders. There are
four valves per cylinder, two intake and two exhaust. Each pair of
valves is operated by a single forked rocker arm, requiring only one
cam lobe for each pair of valves. Each cam chain is kept tight by a
1.1 Cylinder identification
self-adjusting tensioner, located between the cylinders within the
loop formed by the chain.
The crankcase splits horizontally, and all four cylinders are
integrated with the upper crankcase half in a single casting. The 4 Major engine repair - general note
crankshaft rides in four plain main bearings and the firing order is
determined by the position of the connecting rods on the crank. 1 It is not always easy to determine when or if an engine should be
The multi-plate clutch is hydraulically operated using a master completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be
cylinder mounted on the handlebars and a slave cylinder on the left considered.
side of the engine. All 1100 cc models and the 1983 VF750 Sabre 2 High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is
are fitted with a diaphragm spring instead of the coil springs of the needed, while low mileage, on the other hand, does not preclude
other models and also feature a one-way clutch unit. The one-way the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the
clutch is essentially a two-piece clutch center with a locking device single most important consideration. An engine that has regular
and prevents rear wheel lockup under severe down shifting or and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required
engine braking conditions, by allowing the inner clutch plates to maintenance, will most likely give many miles of reliable service.
slip. Conversely, a neglected engine, or one which has not been broken
The 6-speed transmission is a traditional constant-mesh type in properly, may require an overhaul very early in its life.
incorporating an output gear assembly, driven off the countershaft, 3 Exhaust smoke and excessive oil consumption are both
which transmits drive via the shaft to the rear wheel. indications that piston rings and/or valve guides are in need of
attention, although make sure that the fault is not due to oil
leakage. Refer to Chapter 1 and perform a cylinder compression
2 Operations possible with the engine in the frame check to determine for certain the nature and extent of the work
required.
4 If the engine is making obvious knocking or rumbling noises, the
The components and assemblies listed below can be removed connecting rod and/or main bearings are probably at fault.
without having to remove the engine/transmission assembly from 5 Loss of power, rough running, excessive valve train noise and
the frame. If however, a number of areas require attention at the high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an
same time, removal of the engine is recommended. overhaul, especially if they are all present at the same time. If a
Valve cover, camshafts and rocker arms complete tune-up does not remedy the situation, major mechanical
Cylinder heads work is the only solution.
Cam chain (ens/oners 6 An engine overhaul generally involves restoring the internal parts
Gearshift mechanism external components to the specifications of a new engine. During an overhaul the piston
Oil pump, relief valve and strainer rings are replaced and the cylinder walls are bored and/or honed. If
Clutch a rebore is done, then new pistons will also be required. The main
Starter clutch and connecting rod bearings are usually replaced during a major
Starter motor overhaul. Generally the valve seats are serviced as well, since they
Alternator are usually in less than perfect condition at this point. While the
Water pump engine is being overhauled, other components such as the
carburetors and the starter motor can also be rebuilt. The end
result should be a like new engine that will give as many trouble-
free miles as the original.
3 Operations requiring engine removal 7 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the related
procedures to familiarize yourself with the scope and requirements
It is necessary to remove the engine/transmission assembly of the job. Overhauling an engine is not all that difficult, but it is
from the frame, remove the output gear case and separate the time consuming. Plan on the motorcycle being tied up for a
crankcase halves to gain access to the following components. minimum of two weeks. Check on the availability of parts and
Crankshaft make sure that any necessary special tools, equipment and
Main and connecting rod bearings supplies are obtained in advance.
Pistons and connecting rods 8 Most work can be done with typical shop hand tools, although a
Camshaft drive chains number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting
Transmission shafts/gears parts to determine if they must be replaced. Often a dealer service
Shift drum/shift forks department or motorcycle repair shop will handle the inspection of
parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and replacement.
As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul so it does
not pay to install worn or substandard parts.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-11

5.5 Engine left side rear cover is retained 5.15 Peel back its rubber cover and 5.16 Battery ground (earth)
by three bolts on 1100 models and later disconnect the wire from the oil cable connection
700/750 Magnas pressure switch
all 700/750 Sabre models and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna
models (note the long collar inside the cover) and by three bolts on
all 1100 models and 1985-on 700/750 Magna models (see
illustration). Remove the gearshift lever and linkage (see Section
18).
6 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1), then remove the water hose
that runs between the water pump and subframe.
7 Remove the radiator (see Chapter 3).
8 Remove the exhaust pipes (see Chapter 4). Note: The two rear
head pipes need not be removed.
9 Remove the air filter housing(s) and carburetors (see Chapter
4).
10 On 1984-on California models, detach the emission control
system canister from the front lower frame brace.
11 On 1986 California models, detach the secondary air supply
system reed valve blocks from each side of the rear cylinder bank.
On 1986 through 1988 700/750 California models, detach the
secondary air supply system air suction valve from the front of the
oil pan.
5.17 Retain clutch slave cylinder piston with strong rubber bands 12 Remove the thermostat and its housing (see Chapter 3).
13 Disconnect the crankcase breather tube from the air
chamber/air filter housing, then disconnect its lower end from the
9 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble rear of the crankcase.
from a rebuilt engine, everything must be assembled with care in a 14 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, release the rear
spotlessly clean environment. brake switch from its bracket on the engine right cover (see
Chapter 8).
15 Pull the spark plug caps off the spark plugs and tie them to the
5 Engine - removal and installation frame top tubes. Disconnect the wiring harness that leads to the
following components:
Note: Engine removal and installation should be carried out with the aid of a) Oil pressure switch (see illustration).
an assistant; personal injury or damage could occur if the engine falls or is b) Pulse generators.
dropped. An hydraulic floor-type jack should be used to support and c) Alternator.
lower the engine to the floor if possible (they can be rented at low cost). d) Starter motor.
e) Gearchange switch or neutral/OD switch (as applicable).
Removal 16 Disconnect the battery ground (earth) cable where it attaches to
Refer to illustrations 5.5, 5.15, 5.16, 5.17, 5.21, 5.22, 5.23a, 5.23b and the engine, directly in front of the right swingarm pivot (see
5.23c illustration).
1 Place the motorcycle on the main stand. On 1987 and 1988 17 Without disconnecting the clutch fluid line, remove the clutch
700/750 Magnas (without a main stand), first remove the belly slave cylinder from the engine. Once removed, the clutch lever
fairing (see Chapter 6), then support the machine with an auxiliary should not be applied. To ensure this, place a wooden block
motorcycle stand to ensure it will not topple when the engine unit is between the lever and the handlebar grip and tie the lever tight to
removed. the block. Also, wrap strong rubber bands around the slave
2 Remove the seat (see Chapter 6) and main fuel tank (see Chap- cylinder housing and piston to make sure the piston does not come
ter 4). out (see illustration).
3 Remove both the left and right side covers (see Chapter 6). 18 Remove the rear wheel and disconnect the driveshaft from the
Disconnect the negative battery lead. gearcase (see Chapter 6).
4 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 19 Position a jack under the engine oil pan; this will be used to
5 Remove the engine left rear cover; it is retained by a single support the engine once the mounting bolts have been removed.
bolt on Note: A piece of wood should be used between the jack and the oil
pan to protect it and give a better grip.
20 Remove the left footpeg (see Chapter 6). On 1100 Sabre
models, also remove the rear brake pedal from its shaft.
2-12 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

5.21 Engine rear lower throughbolt (arrow) - threaded stud and 5.22 Removing the subframe
nuts on some models

5.23a Engine front mounting on right side 5.23b Front cylinder steady bolt on right side (later models)
21 Remove the engine rear lower throughbolt or threaded stud and
nuts (as applicable) (see illustration).
22 Remove the subframe-to-engine mounting bolt on the left side
and then remove the subframe-to-main frame mounting bolts and
remove the subframe (see illustration).
23 Raise the jack just enough to take the weight off the remaining
engine mounting bolts and then remove them (see illustrations).
Note: You should have an assistant on hand to help you balance the
engine on the jack while these last two mounting bolts are removed.
Take note of the position of all collars, wire clamps and washers so
that they can be returned to their original positions on installation.
24 The engine can now be lowered on the jack and removed from the
left side of the frame. Note: Lower the jack slowly and carefully and check
all clearances as the engine is lowered. The engine may have to be
pivoted slightly on the jack to clear the frame tubes.
25 Remove any engine mount rubbers or bushings. Inspect them
for wear or damage and replace them if necessary.

Installation
26 Installation of the engine is essentially the reverse of the 5.23c Engine rear upper throughbolt
removal procedure, with the following notes:
a) When installing the engine in the frame, use the jack to align the
mounting bolt holes to prevent damage to the bolt threads. Install all c) Following installation, fill the crankcase with the proper amount
engine mounting bolts loosely until the subframe bolts are and grade of oil (see Chapter 1).
tightened. Then tighten all engine mounting bolts to their proper d) Fill the cooling system with fresh coolant and bleed it of air (see
torque. Chapter 1).
b) When installing components, be sure to refer to the appropriate e) Adjust the throttle cables and idle speed (see Chapter 1).
Section or Chapter for the proper installation procedure. f) Set the choke cable freeplay (see Chapter 4).
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-13

Remove the oil pan and oil pump (see Sections 20 and 21)
Remove the output gear case (see Section 23)
Separate the crankcases (see Section 24)
Remove the crankshaft (see Section 28)
Remove the pistons and connecting rods (see Section 29)
Remove the transmission shafts (see Section 31)
Remove the shift drum and forks (see Section 32)

Reassembly
6 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing the general
disassembly sequence.

7 Valve covers - removal and installation

Note: The valve covers can be removed with the engine in the frame. If
the engine has been removed, ignore the steps which do not apply.
7.7 Install valve covers with arrow mark facing forwards. Tab on Removal
rear cover base must also face forwards
1 Place the motorcycle its stand, then remove the seat and both
side covers.
2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
6 Engine disassembly and reassembly - general 3 Drain the coolant and remove the radiator as described in
information Chapter 3. This is necessary to gain access to the front cylinder
valve cover. Note: The coolant can be re-used if it is drained into a
Note: Refer to the 'Maintenance techniques, tools and working clean container.
facilities' in the Introductory pages of this manual for further information. 4 On models where the ignition HT coils are mounted across the
frame top tubes, and therefore prevent access to the rear cylinder,
Disassembly remove them and the plastic heat shield (see Chapter 5). Also
Before disassembling the engine, the external surfaces of the release any wiring ties to improve access to the valve covers.
unit should be thoroughly cleaned and degreased. This will prevent 5 Remove all four spark plugs.
contamination of the engine internals, and will also make working a 6 Remove all valve cover bolts from both cylinder banks and lift off
lot easier and cleaner. A high flash-point solvent, such as kerosene both of the valve covers, plus the valve cover base from the rear
(paraffin) can be used, or better still, a proprietary engine cylinder.
degreaser. Use old paintbrushes and toothbrushes to work the
solvent into the various recesses of the engine casings. Take care Installation
to exclude solvent or water from the electrical components and Refer to illustration 7.7
intake and exhaust ports. Warning: The use of gasoline (petrol) as a 7 Make sure the gasket surfaces of the cylinder head and the valve
cleaning agent should be avoided because of the risk of fire. covers are clean. If the valve cover seal is damaged in any way
2 When clean and dry, arrange the unit on the workbench, leaving a replace it. Apply a smear of sealant to the cover seal and on 1987
suitable clear area for working. Gather a selection of small and 1988 700/750 Magna models also to the half circle projections,
containers and plastic bags so that parts can be grouped together then carefully install the covers. The valve covers should be
in an easily identifiable manner. Some paper and a pen should be installed with the cast arrow marks on the inside of the covers
on hand to permit notes to be made and labels attached where facing forward. Also, the cover base for the rear valve cover should
necessary. A supply of clean shop towels is also required. be installed with the mark and the tab on the gasket to the front
3 Before commencing work, read through the appropriate section (see illustration).
so that some idea of the necessary procedure can be gained. 8 Install the spark plugs, plastic heat shield, HT coils, wiring
When removing various engine components it should be noted that harness ties, radiator, fuel tank, side covers and seat.
great force is seldom required, unless specified. In many cases, a 9 Refill and bleed the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.
component's reluctance to be removed is indicative of an incorrect 10 Start the engine and check that there are no oil leaks around
approach or removal method. If in any doubt, re-check with the text. the valve covers.
4 When disassembling the engine, keep "mated" parts together
(including gears, cylinders, pistons, valves, etc. that have been in
contact with each other during engine operation). These 'mated' 8 Camchain tensioner and guides - removal and
parts must be re-used or replaced as an assembly.
5 Engine/transmission disassembly should be done in the following
installation
general order with reference to the appropriate Sections.
Remove the valve covers (see Section 7) Note: The camchain tensioner and guides can be removed with the
Remove the camchain tensioners (see Section 8) engine in the frame.
Remove the camshafts (see Section 9) Note: Be especially careful not to drop any parts into the crankcase.
Remove the cylinder heads (see Section 10) The minimal amount of work necessary to retrieve dropped parts will be
Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 8) removal of the oil pan and at worst separation of the crankcases.
Remove the ignition pulse generators (see Chapter 5)
Remove the starter clutch (see Section 13) Removal
Remove the clutch (see Section 14)
Remove the external gearshift components (see Section 17) Cam chain tensioners and slippers
Remove the alternator rotor and stator (see Section 19) Refer to illustrations 8.2a, 8.2b and 8.2c
Remove the water pump (see Chapters) 1 Follow Steps 1 to 14 of Section 9 to remove the camshafts.
2 Remove the cam chain tensioner base bolts and pull the
tensioner base up. Then remove the clip and clevis pin that
attaches the
2-14 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

8.2a Camchain and tensioner assembly

8.2b Remove tensioner base bolts to free it from the head ... 8.2c ... then release slipper from tensioner arm
tensioner arm to the slipper (see illustrations). Lift out the 6 The rear cylinder bank chain guide is held by two mounting bolts.
base, complete with tensioner arm. Slowly unscrew the bolts while lifting up on the guide to keep
3 Gently pull the slipper out of its support in the crankcase. tension on the bolts. When the bolts are completely unscrewed,
carefully lift the guide, with bolts, out of the cylinder cavity (see
Cam chain guides and slipper supports illustration).
Refer to illustrations 8.5, 8.6 and 8.7 7 The slipper support holders are also located in the crankcase
4 Remove the cylinder heads (see Section 10). cavity. Carefully loosen their mounting bolts until they are
5 The front cylinder bank chain guide is slipped over a pivot pin on completely unscrewed, then use needle-nose pliers to pick the
the cavity wall and secured with a wire clip (see illustration). Insert bolts and supports out (see illustration).
a hooked piece of wire through the clip to keep it from falling and
then push the clip out from the other side using a screwdriver. Installation
Carefully reach in and remove the washer from the pivot pin. Cam chain guides and slipper supports
Remove the guide from the pivot pin and lift it out.
8 Apply thread locking agent to the slipper support holder bolts and
insert them into the holder. Use needle-nose pliers to install the
holder
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-15

8.5 Front camchain guide is secured by 8.6 Rear camchain guide is bolted 8.7 Pick slipper support holders out of
clip and washer on pivot pin to crankcase crankcase once their bolts have
been removed

8.13 Camchain pensioner locked in the Off position 8.16 Method of unlocking camchain tensioner
into place in the crankcase cavity. The bolts are most easily 14 Place the tensioner base into position in the cylinder head and
tightened using a socket with a swivel joint, while keeping the thread the chain over it. Do not install the tensioner base bolts yet.
holder raised slightly to prevent the bolts from falling out. Attach the slipper to the tensioner with the clevis pin and clip.
9 Install the front cylinder bank chain guide onto the pivot pin. 15 Refit the camshafts and oil pipe (see Section 9).
Carefully slip the washer over the pin. Then, again with a piece of 16 Unlock the tensioner by holding pressure on the tensioner lock
hooked wire inserted through the clip, lower it into the cavity, set it plate with a screwdriver, then pull up on the tensioner arm and
in its hole and push it through with a screwdriver. Disconnect the remove the lock pin or piece of wire (see illustration). Slowly let
wire from the clip. the arm pull itself back into the cavity. After unlocking the
10 Apply thread locking agent to the rear cylinder bank guide bolts tensioner, install and tighten the tensioner base bolts. Install the
and insert them into place on the guide. Then carefully lower the tensioner top guide.
guide into place in the cavity. Tighten the bolts while keeping the 17 Remove any rags from the cylinder head and install all
guide raised slightly to prevent them from dropping out. components in a reverse of the removal procedure. Check the oil
11 Install the cylinder heads. level and top up if necessary and set the valve clearances (see
Chapter 1). Top up the coolant (see Chapter 1).
Cam chain tensioners and slippers
Refer to illustrations 8.13 and 8.16
12 Insert the slipper's rounded end into the slipper holder in the 9 Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and
crankcase. Caution: The slipper end must be slotted into the holder installation
(use a hand-held flashlight to check this) otherwise it will not be
properly secured and engine damage will result.
13 The cam chain tensioner should be locked to keep tension off Note: This procedure can be carried out with the engine in the frame. If
the chain during installation of the camshafts and subsequent valve the engine has been removed, ignore the steps which don't apply.
timing. A plate at the bottom of the tensioner rod locks the rod in
place. Release this plate so the tensioner arm can be raised Camshaft removal
enough to insert a lock pin or piece of wire through the aligned Refer to illustrations 9.4, 9.8a and 9.8b
holes in the arm and base (see illustration). This will keep the 1 Drain the engine oil from the front cylinder head by removing
tensioner locked in the off position. the
front cylinder bank drain bolt (see Chapter 1 'Engine oil and filter
change').
2-16 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

9.8a With alternator T1.3 mark aligned

9.4 Camchain tensioner guide (1) is with crankcase mating surface (all except 9.8b ... both cam sprocket alignment
retained by four bolts. Note oil pipe (2) marks should align with head surface
1987/88 models)...
2 Remove the valve covers, plus the valve cover base from the rear Camshaft inspection
cylinder bank (see Section 7).
Refer to illustrations 9.15, 9.16,9.17, 9.21 a, 9.21 b, 9.23 and 9.24 Note:
3 Stuff clean rags down into the cylinder cavities to prevent bolts or
Before replacing the camshafts or the cylinder head and bearing caps
other parts from being dropped into the cylinder.
because of damage, check with local machine shops specializing in
4 Remove the bolts that retain the cam chain tensioner guide and lift
motorcycle engineering work. In the case of the camshafts, it may be
the guide out (see illustration).
possible for cam lobes to be welded, reground and hardened, at a cost far
5 On all models except 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas, remove the
lower than that of a new camshaft. If the bearing surfaces in the
alternator cover from the left side of the engine and rotate the
cylinder head are damaged, it may be possible for them to be bored out
alternator rotor clockwise until the cam chain is at its loosest point; it
to accept bearing inserts. Due to the cost of a new cylinder head it is
will have about 1/2 in of slack. Do the same on 1987 and 1988 700/750
recommended that all options be explored before condemning it as trash!
Magna models, but remove the circular inspection cover set in the
15 Inspect the cam bearing surfaces of the head and the bearing caps.
engine right cover and rotate the crankshaft end bolt counterclockwise
Look for score marks, deep scratches and evidence of spalling (a pitted
(anticlockwise).
appearance). Check the camshaft lobes for heat discoloration (blue
6 Remove the oil pipe mounting bolts. The oil pipe can now be
appearance), score marks, chipped areas, flat spots and spalling (see
removed by passing it under the cam chain.
illustration).
7 Back off the valve adjustment screws. This will release tension on the
16 Camshaft runout can be checked by supporting each end of the
camshafts during disassembly and prevent possible damage to the
camshaft on V-blocks, and measuring any runout using a dial gauge
cam holders.
(see illustration). If the runout exceeds the specified limit the camshaft
8 On all except 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, rotate the
must be replaced.
alternator rotor until the T1.3 mark is aligned with the rear crankcase
17 Measure the height of each lobe with a micrometer (see
mating surface. On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, rotate the
illustration) and compare the results to the lobe height service limit
starter clutch bolt until the T1.3 mark aligns with the punch mark on the
listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If damage is noted or wear is
inspection cover aperture. In this position, the index marks on the
excessive, the camshaft must be replaced.
camshaft sprockets should be in alignment with the top surface of the
18 The camshaft bearing oil clearance is checked either by a product
cylinder heads (see illustrations).
known as Plastigage or by direct measurement, depending on the
Note: On early engines (circa 1982/83) the valve timing index marks
model being worked on. If working on a 1986 through 1988 700/750
were incorrectly marked on the front cylinder camshaft sprockets. It is
Magna model check by direct measurement (see Steps 19 and 24),
recommended that you check the accuracy of these marks at this
and on all other models check using Plastigage (see Steps 20 through
stage; if they do not exist, mark the sprockets level with the cylinder
24).
head surface using a fine-tipped felt marker to serve as a guide to
19 To check by direct measurement you will need a small hole gauge
reassembly.
type micrometer. Fit the bearing holders to the head in their correct
9 Remove the exposed cam sprocket mounting bolts. Then rotate the
positions (do not install the camshafts). Tighten the retaining bolts to
engine one complete turn until the T1.3 mark is again aligned and
the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern. Measure the internal
remove the other cam sprocket bolts. Note: Take care that the cam
diameter of each bearing cap journal and compare the measurements
chain in the opposite cylinder does not bind while rotating the
obtained with the service limit given in the Specifications at the start of
crankshaft.
this Chapter. If any bore is worn beyond the service limit, the cylinder
10 Lift the cam sprockets off the camshaft shoulders and disengage
head and bearing holders must be repaired/replaced. The camshaft
the camchain from them.
bearing oil clearance can then calculated by subtracting the camshaft
11 Before removing the cam holders, mark their top surfaces with a felt
bearing journal diameter from the bearing cap journal diameter (see
marker pen for identification (eg, 1E to denote cylinder no. 1 exhaust
Step 24).
cam holder).
20 If using Plastigage first clean the camshafts, the bearing surfaces in
12 Loosen the cam holder bolts evenly in a criss-cross sequence to
the cylinder head and the bearing holders with a clean, lint-free cloth,
prevent distortion, then lift off the holders. Retrieve the dowels if they
then lay the camshafts in place in the cylinder head.
are loose - on later models they are pressed into the holders.
21 Cut strips of Plastigage and lay one piece on each bearing journal,
13 Lift the camshafts out and remove the sprockets from them.
parallel with the camshaft centerline. Make sure the dowels are
Support the camchain over the tensioner.
installed in the cam holders and fit them in their proper positions;
14 Clean all of the parts with solvent and dry them thoroughly.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-17

9.15 Check the cam bearing surfaces and 9.16 Measuring camshaft runout 9.17 Measuring camshaft lobe height
camshaft for wear or damage

9.21a Use shorter 6 mm bolts (arrows) in 9.21b Lay a strip of Plastigage on each 9.23 Measure the crushed Plastigage
place of the oil pipe bolts when checking camshaft journal against the scale on the envelope
bearing oil clearance
substitute shorter 6 mm bolts in place of the oil pipe mounting bolts
when measuring the oil clearance (see illustrations). Ensuring the
camshafts are not rotated at all, tighten the cam holder bolts to the
specified torque in a criss-cross pattern.
22 Now unscrew the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and carefully lift off
the cam holders, again making sure the camshafts are not rotated.
23 To determine the oil clearance, compare the crushed Plastigage (at
its widest point) on each journal to the scale printed on the Plastigage
container (see illustration).
24 Compare the results to this Chapter's Specifications. If the oil
clearance is greater than specified, measure the diameter of the
camshaft bearing journal with a micrometer (see illustration). If the
journal diameter is less than the specified limit, replace the camshaft
with a new one and recheck the clearance. If the clearance is still too
great, replace the cylinder head and cam holders with new parts (see
the Note at the start of this sub-Section). On early models the
manufacturer does not specify a figure for camshaft journal wear; if the
oil clearance is too great the camshafts must be replaced, and if still too 9.24 Camshaft journal identification for diameter measurement •
great the cylinder head and cam holders must also be replaced. 1986 through 1988 700/750 Magna models
25 Except in cases of oil starvation, the camchain wears very little. If A Outer journal (see Specifications)
the camchain has stretched excessively, which makes it difficult to B Center journal C Inner journal (nearest sprocket)
maintain proper tension, remove and measure it as described in
Section 26.
26 Check the sprockets for wear, cracks and other damage, replacing Camshaft installation
them if necessary. If the sprockets are worn, the camchain is also Refer to illustrations 9.29, 9.32, 9.36 and 9.38
worn, and also the sprocket on the crankshaft. If wear this severe is Note: If there is insufficient slack in the camchain to allow the
apparent the camchain and all sprockets should be replaced. sprockets to be mounted on the camshafts, refer to Section 8 and lock
27 Refer to Section 26 and examine the camchain guides for wear. the tensioner in position.
2-18 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

9.32 Rear cylinder bank camshaft installation positions as seen

from No. 1 cylinder side (1982 through 1985 700/750 Sabre and
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models)

9.29 Location of camshaft identification markings

9.38 Front cylinder bank camshaft installation positions as seen

from No 2 cylinder side (1982 through 1985 700/750 Sabre and
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models)

removal) and loosely install the bolts, noting their correct position (see
illustration 10.22).
34 Place the cam sprockets onto the camshaft flanges and install the
mounting bolts in the exposed holes finger-tight. Carefully rotate the
engine making sure the camchain in the other cylinder back doesn't
bunch up, and install the other sprocket bolts finger-tight.

Front cylinder bank

35 Rotate the engine until the T2.4 mark is aligned with the casing
mark.
9.36 New front cylinder camshaft sprocket index marks 36 If on early models (circa 1982/83), index marks were neither found
(1982/83 models) nor made on the front cylinder sprockets on removal, this must be done
at this stage. These marks are made six teeth (or at a 45° angle) from
the original indented index marks, using a scribe or permanent ink
28 Make sure the bearing surfaces in the cylinder head and cam marker (see illustration).
holders are clean, then apply a light coat of grease (preferably 37 Install the sprockets onto the camshafts so that their marked side
molybdenum disulfide) to them. faces the left of the engine and pass the camshafts through the chain
29 All of the camshafts are marked as to their positions (rear cylinder into place in their cylinder head bearing surfaces. The inlet camshaft
exhaust - ER, front cylinder intake - IF, etc). Be sure they are installed sprocket should be on the right side of its camshaft boss, and the
correctly (see illustration). exhaust sprocket on the left side of its camshaft boss.
38 On all 700/750 Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas the
Rear cylinder bank lobes for cylinder no. 2 should be positioned as shown (see
30 Check that the alternator/starter clutch (as applicable) T1.3 mark is illustration). On all other models the camshaft identification markings
still aligned. must be facing upwards. The sprocket index marks should align with
31 Working with the rear cylinder bank first, slip the cam sprockets the head surface on all models.
onto the camshafts so that their marked sides face the left of the 39 Position the camchain on the sprockets. On 1985 through 1988
engine. The inlet camshaft sprocket should be on the left side of its 700/750 Magna models, Honda specify that there should be a total of
camshaft boss, and the exhaust sprocket on the right side of its 46 camchain link pins between the sprocket index marks when
camshaft boss. correctly positioned.
32 Carefully pass the camshafts through the camchain and into 40 Place the cam holders into position (using the notes made on
position in the cylinder head bearing surfaces. On all 700/750 Sabres removal) and loosely install the bolts, noting their correct location (see
and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas they should be positioned so illustration 10.22).
the number 1 cylinder's lobes are parallel with the head surface and 41 Place the cam sprockets onto the camshaft flanges and install the
facing each other (see illustration). On all other models, position the mounting bolts in the exposed holes finger-tight. Rotate the engine and
camshafts so that their identification markings (see illustration 9.29) install the other sprocket bolts finger-tight.
are facing upwards. Position the cam sprockets so their index marks
Both cylinder banks
are in line with the head surface and place the camchain onto the
sprockets. 42 Make a final check that the sprocket and cam lobe positions are
33 Place the cam holders into position (using the notes made on correct (see Steps 32, 37 and 38). If only one cylinder bank was
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-19

9.53 Rocker shaft is unscrewed from side 9.56a Inspect the cam lobe contact 9.56b Measure the rocker arm inside
of head on 1982 through 1985 700/750 surface of the rocker arms for wear diameter...
models and all 1100 models
worked on, remove the valve cover from the other cylinder bank and
check that the valve timing marks align as specified above.
43 Remove each sprocket bolt in turn, apply thread-locking compound
to its threads and tighten to the specified torque.
44 Rotate the engine until the camchain is at its loosest point and slip
the oil pipe under the chain and into position. Install the oil pipe
mounting bolts. Install the oil pipe in the other cylinder in the same
manner.
45 Tighten the cam holder bolts evenly in two or three stages until the
specified torque is reached; refer to the cylinder head/cam holder
tightening sequence in illustration 10.22.
46 If the camchain tensioner was locked during installation of the chain,
refer to Section 8 and release it. Note: Make a check (using a hand-
held flashlight) that the bottom end of the tensioner slipper blade has
remained in its holder socket - if it has popped out engine damage will
result. Install the camchain tensioner guide.
47 Remove the rags from the cylinders.
48 Adjust the valve clearances and install the valve covers and rear
valve cover base as described in Chapter 1. 9.57 ... and the shaft outside diameter
49 Refit all disturbed components in a reverse of the removal
procedure.
50 Refill and bleed the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.
51 Top up the engine oil (see Chapter 1). and check the camshaft lobes for scoring, chipping and flat spots.
57 Inspect each of the rocker arm shafts for wear, then measure their
Rocker arm removal outside diameters (at both ends and the middle) and compare the results
to the Specifications (see illustration). Replace any parts that — are worn
Refer to illustration 9.53
excessively or damaged.
52 Remove the camshafts, as described in Steps 1 to 13.
58 Inspect the rocker arm shaft wave washer and coil spring (as
53 On 1982 through 1985 700/750 models and all 1100 models,
applicable) for damage and replace it if necessary.
remove the rocker arm shaft bolt (see illustration). Lift the rocker arm
out of the cylinder head. Remove the wave washer and O-ring from the
shaft bolt.
Rocker arm installation
54 On 1986 through 1988 700/750 models, remove the rocker arm 59 On 1982 through 1985 700/750 models and all 1100 models install
shaft cap and withdraw the coil spring. Thread a 10 mm diameter bolt a new O-ring on the rocker arm shaft bolt. Smear the rocker arm shaft
into the end of the rocker shaft and pull on the bolt head with pliers to bearing surface with molybdenum disulfide grease and apply thread
extract the shaft from the cylinder head. Remove the wave washer from locking compound to the shaft threads. Install the wave washer on the
the shaft and the O-ring from the cap. rocker arm. With the rocker arm in position, screw the rocker shaft into
55 Clean the parts, except for the O-ring, in clean solvent and dry them place, tightening it to the specified torque.
thoroughly. 60 On 1986 through 1988 700/750 models, install the wave washer on
the rocker arm and smear the shaft bearing surface with molybdenum
Rocker arm inspection disulfide grease. With the rocker arm in position, push the rocker shaft
into place. Install the 6 mm cylinder head pin bolt in the corner hole of
Refer to illustrations 9.56a, 9.56b and 9.57 the cylinder head, and use a large flat-bladed screwdriver in the shaft
56 Check the camshaft lobe contact surfaces and the adjusting screw end to rotate it so that the pin bolt passes fully down into the head
faces of the rocker arms (see illustration) for excessive wear, casting. Leaving the pin bolt in position install the coil spring and cap,
evidence of galling, chipping and cracks. Make sure the oil holes are having applied thread locking compound to the cap threads and
not clogged, then measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm bore installed a new O-ring. Tighten the cap to the specified torque and
and compare it to the Specifications (see illustration). If any damage remove the pin bolt.
or excessive wear is evident, replace the rocker arms with new ones 61 Install the camshafts as described above.

1
2-20 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

10.11 Pry cylinder head off crankcase only at reinforced areas

10.22 Cylinder head/cam holder tightening sequence

10 Cylinder heads - removal and installation A 9 mm bolts/nuts (700/750 B 8 mm bolts

models), 10 mm bolts (1100 Others are 6 mm bolts
models)
Caution: The engine must be completely cool before beginning this
Note: 6 mm bolts 17 through 20 are pin type on 1986 through 1988
procedure or the cylinder head may become warped. Note: This
700/750 models, plain on all others. Note: 6 mm bolts 21 through 24 only
procedure can be performed with the engine in the frame. If the engine
fitted to 1986-on 700/750 models
has already been removed, ignore the preliminary steps which don't
apply. this stage (see Section 8).
16 Place the cylindr heads into position on the crankcase and feed the
Removal camchains through the center cavity.
Refer to illustration 10.11 17 Prior to installing the cylinder head bolts (nuts on 1987 and 1988
1 Remove the carburetors (see Chapter 4). On 1986 700 California 700/750 Magna models), the camchain tensioner should be locked to
models, remove the secondary air supply system reed valve block from keep slack off of the chain during installation of the camshafts and
both sides of the rear cylinder bank. subsequent valve timing (see Section 8).
2 Remove the carburetor rubber boots from the cylinder ports. 18 Place the tensioner base into position in the cylinder head and
3 Drain the cooling system and remove the coolant crossover pipes thread the chain over it. Do not install the tensioner base bolts yet.
(see Chapter 3). Attach the slipper to the tensioner with the clevis pin and clip and insert
4 Remove the exhaust pipes (see Chapter 4). the lower end of the slipper into its holder located in the crankcase
5 Remove the valve covers (see Section 7). cavity. Caution: Engine damage will occur if the slipper end is not located
6 Remove the camshafts (see Section 9). properly in the holder socket.
7 Remove the exterior oil pipe that runs between the two cylinder 19 Repeat the tensioner locking and installation procedure on the other
banks. Do not lose the metal washers used at the pipe banjo fittings. cylinder head.
8 Remove the rear upper engine mount bolt attached to the rear 20 Install the four outer cylinder head bolts (nuts on 1987 and 1988
cylinder head. 700/750 Magna models), tightening them only lightly at this stage.
9 Remove the camchain tensioner and slipper from both cylinder 21 Install the camshafts. It is important that the procedure described in
heads (see Section 8). Section 9 be followed carefully as maintaining correct valve timing is
10 Remove the four cylinder head bolts located on the outside of the critical. Note: After the cam holders and sprockets, as well as the oil
heads. pipe, have been installed and the bolts tightened, unlock the cam chain
11 Using a pair of large screwdrivers or pry bars, carefully separate the tensioner (see Section 8). After unlocking the tensioner, install and
head from the cylinders. Position the tools on opposite sides and pry tighten the tensioner base bolts.
only on the reinforced areas (see illustration). Caution: Do not wedge 22 With the camshafts and camchain installed, refer to the tightening
the tool between the gasket surfaces and do not, under any sequence and tighten the cylinder head/cam holder bolts and nuts
circumstances, use excessive force or the head and crankcase may be evenly in two or three stages to the specified torque (see illustration).
damaged. 23 The remainder of the cylinder head installation procedure is the
12 Remove the dowel pins (note how they are installed), then peel up reverse of the removal procedure, while taking note of the following.
the old head gasket. a) Use new sealing washers on the external oil pipe union bolts.
13 Using a blunt gasket scraper or similar tool, remove any trace of old b) Before installing the valve covers, adjust the valve clearances as
gasket material left on the cylinder. Clean the gasket surfaces of the described in Chapter 1.
head and cylinders with a solvent such as lacquer thinner or acetone. c) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.
14 For disassembly of the cylinder head components, refer to Sections d) Fill the crankcase to the proper level with engine oil, referring to
11 and 12. If the cam chain guides must be removed for further Chapter 1 if necessary.
disassembly of the engine, refer to Section 8.

Installation 11 Valves/valve seats/valve guides - servicing

Refer to illustration 10.22
15 Install the dowel pins (with new O-rings) and lay the new head 1 Because of the complex nature of this job and the special tools and
gasket in place. Never re-use the old gasket and do not use any type equipment required, servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the
of gasket sealer. If the camchain guides were removed, install them at valve guides (commonly known as a valve job) is best left to a
professional.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-21

12.7a Use a spring compressor to 12.7b ... then remove keepers/collets 12.7c Valve components
depress valve spring safely ... (arrow) and release spring pressure slowly 1 Keepers 3 Valve springs
(collets) 4 Spring seats
2 Spring retainer 5 Valve
2 The home mechanic can, however, remove and disassemble the
head, do the initial cleaning and inspection, then reassemble and
deliver the head to a dealer service department or properly equipped
motorcycle repair shop for the actual valve servicing. Refer to Section
12 for those procedures.
3 The dealer service department will remove the valves and springs,
recondition or replace the valves and valve seats, replace the valve
guides, check and replace the valve springs, spring retainers and
keepers (collets) (as necessary), replace the valve seals with new
ones and reassemble the valve components.
4 After the valve job has been performed, the head will be in like-new
condition. When the head is returned, be sure to clean it again very
thoroughly before installation on the engine to remove any metal
particles or abrasive grit that may still be present from the valve
service operations. Use compressed air, if available, to blow out all the
holes and passages.

12.7d If valve (2) won't pull through guide, deburr area around
12 Cylinder head and valves - disassembly, inspection and keeper/collet groove (1)
reassembly

1 As mentioned in the previous Section, valve servicing and valve can be used once the majority of deposits have been scraped away.
guide replacement should be left to a dealer service department or Do not use a wire brush mounted in a drill motor, or one with extremely
motorcycle repair shop. However, disassembly, cleaning and stiff bristles, as the head material is soft and may be eroded away or
inspection of the valves and related components can be done (if the scratched by the wire brush.
necessary special tools are available) by the home mechanic. This way 6 Before proceeding, arrange to label and store the valves along with
no expense is incurred if the inspection reveals that service work is not their related components so they can be kept separate and reinstalled
required at this time. in the same valve guides they are removed from (labeled plastic bags
2 To properly disassemble the valve components without the risk of work well for this).
damaging them, a valve spring compressor is absolutely necessary. 7 Compress the valve spring on the first valve with a spring
This special tool can usually be rented, but if it's not available, have a compressor, then remove the keepers (collets) and the retainer from
dealer service department or motorcycle repair shop handle the entire the valve assembly. Note: Take great care not to mark the cylinder
process of disassembly, inspection, service or repair (if required) and head follower bore with the spring compressor. Do not compress the
reassembly of the valves. springs any more than is absolutely necessary. Carefully release the
valve spring compressor and remove the springs and the valve from
Disassembly the head. If the valve binds in the guide (won't pull through), push it
Refer to illustrations 12.7a, 12.7b, 12.7c and 12.7d back into the head and deburr the area around the keeper (collet)
3 Remove the rocker arms if you haven't already done so (see Section groove with a very fine file or whetstone (see illustrations).
9). Store the components in such a way that they can be returned to 8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Remember to keep
their original locations without getting mixed up. the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in the same
4 Before the valves are removed, scrape away any traces of gasket location.
material from the head gasket sealing surface. Work slowly and do not 9 Once the valves have been removed and labeled, pull off the valve
nick or gouge the soft aluminum of the head. Gasket removing stem seals with pliers and discard them (the old seals should never be
solvents, which work very well, are available at most motorcycle shops re-used), then remove the spring seats.
and auto parts stores. 10 Next, clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry it thoroughly.
5 Carefully scrape all carbon deposits out of the combustion chamber Compressed air will speed the drying process and ensure that all holes
area. A hand held wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth and recessed areas are clean.
11 Clean all of the valve springs, keepers (collets), retainers and
2-22 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

12.14 Checking the cylinder head gasket 12.15 Measuring valve seat width 12.16a Use a small hole gauge to
surface for warpage measure valve guide inside diameter...

12.16b ... then measure the gauge with a 12.17 Inspect the valve seat (A), stem (B) 12.18 Measuring the valve stem
micrometer and keeper/collet groove (C) for damage outside diameter
spring seats with solvent and dry them thoroughly. Do the parts illustration). If it exceeds the service limit, or if it varies around its
from one valve at a time so that no mixing of parts between valves circumference, valve service work is required.
occurs. 16 Clean the valve guides to remove any carbon build-up, then
12 Scrape off any deposits that may have formed on the valve, measure the inside diameters of the guides (at both ends and the
then use a motorized wire brush to remove deposits from the valve center of the guide) with a small hole gauge and micrometer (see
heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves do not get mixed illustrations). Record the measurements for future reference.
up. These measurements, along with the valve stem diameter
measurements, will enable you to compute the valve stem-to-guide
Inspection clearance. This clearance, when compared to the Specifications,
Refer to illustrations 12,14, 12.15, 12.16a, 12.16b, 12.17, 12.18,
will be one factor that will determine the extent of the valve service
work required. The guides are measured at the ends and at the
12.19aand12.19b
center to determine if they are worn in a bell-mouth pattern (more
13 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks and other damage. If wear at the ends). If they are, guide replacement is an absolute
cracks are found, a new head will be required. Check the cam must.
bearing surfaces for wear and evidence of seizure. Check the 17 Carefully inspect each valve face for cracks, pits and burned
camshafts and rocker arms for wear as well (see Section 9). spots (see illustration). Check the valve stem and the keeper
14 Using a precision straightedge and a feeler gauge, check the (collet) groove area for cracks. Rotate the valve and check for any
head gasket mating surface for warpage. Lay the straightedge obvious indication that it is bent. Check the end of the stem for
lengthwise, across the head and diagonally (corner-to-corner), pitting and excessive wear. The presence of any of the above
intersecting the head stud holes, and try to slip a feeler gauge conditions indicates the need for valve servicing.
under it, on either side of each combustion chamber (see 18 Measure the valve stem diameter (see illustration). By
illustration). The gauge should be the same thickness as the subtracting the stem diameter from the valve guide diameter, the
cylinder head warp limit listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If valve stem-to-guide clearance is obtained. If the stem-to-guide
the feeler gauge can be inserted between the head and the clearance is greater than listed in this Chapter's Specifications, the
straightedge, the head is warped and must either be machined or, guides and valves will have to be replaced with new ones.
if warpage is excessive, replaced with a new one. 19 Check the end of each valve spring for wear and pitting.
15 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If Measure the free length and compare it to this Chapter's
they are pitted, cracked or burned, the head will require valve Specifications. Any springs that are shorter than specified have
service that's beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Measure sagged and should not be
the valve seat width and compare it to this Chapter's Specifications
(see
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-23

12.19a Measuring the valve spring 12.19b Measuring the valve springs 12.23 Apply valve lapping compound
free length for squareness sparingly to the valve face

12.24a After lapping, the valve face 12.24b ... and the seat should be the 12.27 Install new valve stem seals (arrow)
should exhibit a uniform, unbroken specified width (arrow) with a smooth, on the guides
contact pattern (arrow)... unbroken appearance
re-used. Stand the spring on a flat surface and check it for lapping procedure until the valve face and seat contact area is of
squareness (see illustrations). uniform width and unbroken around the entire circumference of the
20 Check the spring retainers and keepers (collets) for obvious valve face and seat (see illustrations).
wear and cracks. Any questionable parts should not be re-used, as 25 Carefully remove the valve from the guide and wipe off all
extensive damage will occur in the event of failure during engine traces of lapping compound. Use solvent to clean the valve and
operation. wipe the seat area thoroughly with a solvent soaked cloth.
21 If the inspection indicates that no service work is required, the 26 Repeat the procedure with fine valve lapping compound, then
valve components can be reinstalled in the head. repeat the entire procedure for the remaining valves.
27 Lay the spring seats in place in the cylinder head, then install
Reassembly new valve stem seals on each of the guides (see illustration).
Refer to illustrations 12.23, 12.24a, 12.24band 12.27 Use an appropriate size deep socket to push the seals into place
22 Before installing the valves in the head, they should be lapped until they are properly seated. Don't twist or cock them, or they will
to ensure a positive seal between the valves and seats. This not seal properly against the valve stems. Also, don't remove them
procedure requires coarse and fine valve lapping compound again or they will be damaged.
(available at auto parts stores) and a valve lapping tool. If a lapping 28 Coat the valve stems with clean engine oil, then install one of
tool is not available, a piece of rubber or plastic hose can be them into its guide. Next, install the springs and retainer, compress
slipped over the valve stem (after the valve has been installed in the springs and install the keepers (collets). Note: Install the
the guide) and used to turn the valve. springs with their tightly wound coils at the bottom (next to the spring
23 Apply a small amount of coarse lapping compound to the valve seat). When compressing the springs with the valve spring
face, then slip the valve into the guide (see illustration). Note: compressor, depress them only as far as is absolutely necessary
Make sure the valve is installed in the correct guide and be careful not to to slip the keepers (collets) into place. Apply a small amount of
get any lapping compound on the valve stem. grease to the keepers (collets) to help hold them in place as the
24 Attach the lapping tool (or hose) to the valve and rotate the tool pressure is released from the springs. Make certain that the
between the palms of your hands. Use a back-and-forth motion keepers (collets) are securely locked in their retaining grooves.
rather than a circular motion. Lift the valve off the seat and turn it at 29 Support the cylinder head on blocks so the valves can't contact
regular intervals to distribute the lapping compound properly. the workbench top, then very gently tap each of the valve stems
Continue the with a
2-24 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

13.5 Extract its shaft, and maneuver the 13.9 Taking the load off the primary drive 13.10 Detach the driven gear and needle
starter idler gear out of the casing gear so that it can be pulled off the bearing (arrow) from the starter clutch
crankshaft splines
soft-faced hammer. This will help seat the keepers (collets) in their 7 If the starter clutch is to be disassembled, the three starter clutch
grooves. cover bolts should also be broken loose at this time (while the
30 Once all of the valves have been installed in the head, check for alternator is being held). Do not remove these bolts yet.
proper valve sealing by pouring a small amount of solvent into each of 8 Withdraw the starter clutch assembly and thrust washer from the
the valve ports. If the solvent leaks past the valve(s) into the crankshaft splines, taking care not to knock the ignition system pulse
combustion chamber area, disassemble the valve(s) and repeat the generators.
lapping procedure, then reinstall the valve(s) and repeat the check. 9 Use a screwdriver engaged in the teeth of the clutch housing gear to
Repeat the procedure until a satisfactory seal is obtained. take the load off the primary drive gear. The primary drive gear can
then be pulled off its shaft (see illustration).

13 Starter motor clutch and primary drive gear - removal, Overhaul

overhaul and installation Refer to illustrations 13.10, 13.12 and 13.15
10 Remove the starter driven gear and needle bearing from the starter
Note: The starter motor clutch can be removed with the engine in the clutch (see illustration).
frame. 11 Inspect the rollers of the needle bearing for smooth operation and
replace it if necessary.
12 Remove the three bolts from the starter clutch cover and lift off the
Removal cover (see illustration).
Refer to illustrations 13.5 and 13.9 13 Remove the clutch rollers, plungers and springs.
1 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 14 Check the rollers and plungers for excessive wear, scratches or
2 On all models remove the rear brake pedal, and on 1100 Magna score marks and replace them if necessary.
models also remove the right footpeg. 15 Inspect the inner and outer surfaces of the starter driven gear for
3 Remove the right crankcase cover bolts. There are two different size scratches and score marks. Also measure the outer diameter of the
bolts, so make a note of their location or store them in the old gasket driven gear and compare it with the service limit Specifications at the
when this has been removed. Note that one of the cover bolts secures beginning of this Chapter (see illustration).
the rear brake light switch on 1985 through 700/750 Magna models. 16 Inspect the splines of the starter clutch cover. Any component which
4 Tap the crankcase cover gently with a soft-faced hammer to break is not in good condition should be replaced with a new one.
the gasket seal, then pull it away from the engine. Do not pry between 17 To begin reassembly, install the springs into their bores in the
the gasket sealing surfaces, as damage and eventually oil leaks will starter clutch, then install the plungers into their bores and retain them
occur. Discard the old gasket and remove the dowels for safekeeping if by installing the rollers.
they are loose. 18 Install the starter clutch cover onto the starter clutch. Be sure the
5 Pull the starter idler gear shaft out of the casing and remove the idler dowel pin in the starter clutch is aligned with the hole in the cover, then
gear (see illustration). The shaft should simply pull out - it may even tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque. Note: A liquid locking
pull out as the casing is removed. agent should be applied to the bolt threads prior to installation.
6 Remove the starter clutch bolt from the crankshaft end. The 19 With the starter clutch positioned with the cover down, insert the
crankshaft will have to be locked to allow the bolt to be loosened. This needle bearing into place. Install the starter driven gear by depressing
can be achieved in one of several ways. it into the starter clutch while turning it counterclockwise
a) Have an assistant hold the alternator rotor with a strap wrench (anticlockwise).
around its periphery, or the Honda service tool described in
Section 19. Installation
b) On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models the Honda sprag-type
Refer to illustration 13.20
gear holder tool (part no. 07724-0010100) can be used to lock the
primary drive gear and clutch housing. 20 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure with the
c) If the engine is in the frame, shift the transmission into sixth gear following notes. a) It is easier to install the starter idler gear and shaft
and have an assistant sit on the bike with the rear brake held on after installation
firmly (refit pedal temporarily if removed). of the primary drive gear but before installation of the starter
clutch.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-25

13.12 Remove the three bolts to separate the starter clutch 13.15 Measuring the starter driven gear outside diameter

13.20 Align punch marks on crankshaft and starter clutch on 14.7 Removing clutch lifter guide and release bearing
installation
b) When installing the starter clutch on the crankshaft, be sure that 3 Remove the right crankcase cover bolts. There are two different size
the punch marks on the clutch and shaft are aligned (see bolts, so make a note of their location or store them in the old gasket
illustration). when this has been removed. Note that one of the cover bolts secures
c) The alternator rotor will again have to be held stationary while the the rear brake light switch on 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna
starter clutch bolt is tightened to the specified torque. models.
d) Install a new gasket, using a dab of grease to stick it to the 4 Tap the crankcase cover gently with a soft-faced hammer to break
crankcase while the cover is installed. Be sure the longer bolts are the gasket seal, then pull it away from the engine. Do not pry between
reinstalled in their original places. the gasket sealing surfaces, as damage and eventually oil leaks will
e) Refill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of oil. Refer occur. Discard the old gasket and remove the dowels for safekeeping if
to Chapter 1 if necessary. they are loose.
5 Remove the starter clutch and primary drive gear as described in
Section 13.
14 Clutch - removal, inspection and installation All 700/750 models except the 1983 750 Sabre
6 Remove the five bolts which retain the clutch pressure plate. Loosen
Note: This procedure can be performed with the engine in the frame. If these bolts gradually, one turn at a time each, following a crisscross
the engine has already been removed, ignore the preliminary steps pattern, until the pressure from the springs has been released. With
which don't apply. Note: Do not operate the clutch lever after removal of the bolts removed, lift out the springs.
the bolts as this will cause difficulty in reassembling the clutch. 7 Lift off the clutch pressure plate, along with the lifter guide and
release bearing (see illustration).
Removal 8 Pull out the lifter rod extending from the clutch center.
Refer to illustrations 14.7, 14.11 a, 14.11b, 14.12 and 14.13 9 Remove the clutch plates. These can be removed either all at once
1 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). or one at a time.
2 On all models remove the rear brake pedal, and on 1100 Magna 10 On 1987 and 1988 models knock back the lockwasher tabs from the
models also remove the right footpeg. clutch center locknut.
2-26 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

14.11b Gear train can be locked through hole in casing - exercise

extreme care

14.11a Clutch holding tool made from steel strap

11 In order to loosen the clutch center nut, you'll need to prevent the
mainshaft from rotating. The following methods can be used (see
illustrations).
a) If the engine is in the frame, shift the transmission into top gear
and have an assistant apply the rear brake hard (install the pedal
temporarily if removed) with the rear tire in firm contact with the
ground.
b) The Honda service tool (part no. 07923-6890101) provides
another means of locking the mainshaft via the splines of the
output shaft.
c) The clutch center and housing can be locked together using the
Honda clutch center holder (part no. 07724-0050001), or an
equivalent can be made up from some steel strap bent at the ends
and bolted together in the middle.
d) Another means of holding the clutch center is to insert a long
screwdriver through the crankcase hole to the left of the clutch
and engage the blade in the gear teeth visible there. If held
securely, this will prevent the clutch center from rotating while the
14.12 Remove the clutch housing guide (arrow) from the
locknut is loosened and removed.
mainshaft
12 With the locknut removed, lift off the lock washer and clutch center.
The clutch housing and clutch housing guide can also be lifted out (see
illustration). spring's free height can be measured with a tire tread-depth gauge with
the spring placed dished side downward on a flat surface; if it is less
1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 cc models than the service limit it should be replaced.
13 Remove the large circlip from the clutch lifter plate and withdraw the 19 If the lining material of the friction plates smells burnt or if it is
lifter plate, complete with release bearing and lifter plate guide. glazed, new parts are required. If the metal clutch plates are scored or
Withdraw the long pushrod (see illustration). discolored, they must be replaced with new ones. Measure the
14 Remove the clutch center locknut and its washer. Use one of the thickness of each friction plate and compare the results to the Specifi-
methods described in Step 11 above to lock the mainshaft. cations (see illustration). Replace with new parts any friction plates
15 With the locknut and washer removed, lift out the spring set plate, that are near the wear limit.
diaphragm spring and washer. Remove the pressure plate and clutch 20 Lay the metal plates, one at a time, on a perfectly flat surface (such
friction and plain plates from the clutch housing. as a piece of plate glass) and check for warpage by trying to slip a 0.3
16 Remove the outer clutch center together with the one-way clutch mm (0.012 in) feeler gauge between the flat surface and the plate (see
and its inner piece. Withdraw the large washer and inner clutch center, illustration). Do this at several places around the plate's circum-
followed by the clutch housing and its guide. ference. If the feeler gauge can be slipped under the plate, it is warped
and should be replaced with a new one. Check the tabs on the friction
Inspection - all models plates for excessive wear and mushroomed edges. They can be
cleaned up with a file if the deformation is not severe.
Refer to illustrations 14.18, 14.19, 14.20, 14.22 and 14.23
21 Check the edges of the slots in the clutch housing for indentations
17 Examine the splines on both the inside and the outside of the clutch
made by the friction plate tabs. If the indentations are deep they can
center(s). If any wear is evident, replace the clutch center(s). prevent clutch release, so the housing should be replaced with a new
18 On all 700/750 models except the 1983 750 Sabre measure the free one. If the indentations can be removed easily with a file, the life of the
length of the clutch springs and compare the results to the Specifi- housing can be prolonged to an extent. Also, check the primary gear
cations (see illustration). If the springs have sagged, or if cracks are teeth for cracks, chips and excessive wear. If the gear is worn or
noted, replace them with new ones as a set. The diaphragm spring on damaged, the clutch housing must be replaced with a new one.
the 1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models should be checked carefully
for signs of cracking or fatigue - replacement is the only solution. The
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-27

14.13 Clutch components (1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models)
7 Large circlip 9 Spring set plate 17 One-way clutch
2 Lifter plate 10 Diaphragm spring 18 Inner piece
3 Release bearing 11 Washer 19 Washer
4 Lifter plate guide 12 Pressure plate 20 Inner clutch center
5 Circlip 13 Washer 21 Clutch housing
6 Pushrod 14 Friction plates 22 Needle roller bearing
7 Locknut 15 Plain plates 23 Guide
8 Washer 16 Outer clutch center

14.18 Measuring clutch spring free length 14.19 Measuring clutch friction plate thickness
2-28 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

14.20 Measure clutch plain plate warpage 14.22 Needle roller bearing (arrow) is a 14.23 Measuring clutch housing guide
on a perfectly flat surface press-fit in clutch housing inside diameter
22 Inspect the clutch housing needle bearing for damage or excessive 36 If the two cover dowels were removed, install them in the
play (see illustration). Spin the rollers lightly with your finger. There crankcase. Install a new gasket, using a dab of grease to stick it to the
should be no roughness or binding. If the bearing needs replacing, crankcase while the cover is installed. Be sure the longer bolts are
have it pressed out and a new one installed by a Honda dealer. reinstalled in their original places.
23 Measure the inside diameter of the clutch housing guide and 37 Refill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of oil. Refer
compare it to the Specifications (see illustration). If it is worn beyond to Chapter 1 if necessary.
the specified limits, a new guide is required. 38 Install the footpeg and brake pedal, if these were removed (see
24 Visually inspect the one-way clutch of the 1983 750 Sabre and all Chapter 6).
1100 models for signs of damage and wear of its rollers. Measure the
inside diameter of the outer clutch center and the outside diameter of 1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models
the one-way clutch inner piece. If they exceed the service limits replace 39 Install the clutch housing, bearing and guide as described in Steps
them. 25 and 26 above.
25 On the 1983 750 Sabre and all 1100 models, the release bearing 40 Install the inner clutch center and large washer on the mainshaft.
can be drifted out of the lifter plate once the circlip and lifter plate guide 41 On 750 cc models, install the one-way clutch inner piece with its
have been removed. grooved side facing outwards, and fit the one-way clutch over the inner
piece with its marked side facing outwards. The outer clutch center
Installation should be installed over the one-way clutch (its grooved side faces
inwards) using a counterclockwise (anticlockwise) motion. At this point,
All 700/750 models except the 1983 750 Sabre check that the one-way clutch is assembled correctly by attempting to
26 Apply a coat of engine oil to the inside and outside of the clutch turn the outer clutch center in both directions while holding the
housing guide and install it over the mainshaft. mainshaft - it should only turn in a counterclockwise (anticlockwise)
27 If the needle bearing was removed from the clutch housing reinstall direction.
it. Then install the clutch housing into position over the guide. Be sure 42 On 1100 cc models, assembly the outer clutch center, one-way
the holes in the rear of the housing engage with the pins protruding clutch and inner piece before installing on the mainshaft. Fit the one-
from the oil pump drive sprocket behind the guide. way clutch to the outer clutch center with its flanged side facing into the
28 Lubricate the inner splines of the clutch center with engine oil and outer clutch center. Install the inner piece into the one-way clutch using
slip it into position over the shaft. a clockwise motion, noting that the grooved face of the inner piece
29 On 1982 through 1986 models install the lockwasher onto the shaft must face outwards. Install the assembly on the mainshaft and check
with the dished side facing toward the clutch center. On 1987 and 1988 for correct operation by attempting to turn the clutch center in both
models, install the lockwasher (use a new one if its tabs have directions while holding the mainshaft - it should only turn in a
weakened) so that its extension fits over one of the ribs in the clutch counterclockwise (anticlockwise) direction.
center. On all models install the locknut finger-tight. 43 On all models, install a friction plate in the clutch housing, followed
30 Keep the clutch center from rotating using the same method used by a plain plate, alternating them until all are installed in the housing. If
during disassembly and tighten the locknut to its proper torque. On new friction plates are being fitted, coat them with a smear of engine oil
1987 and 1988 models, bend the lockwasher tabs up against the before installation. Install the pressure plate.
locknut sides. 44 Assemble the diaphragm spring on the setting plate so that the
31 Install a friction plate into place so it is properly engaged with the dished side of the spring faces inwards when installed on the
clutch center and housing. Follow the friction plate with a metal plate mainshaft. Fit the washer against the inner (dished) side of the spring
and continue alternating plates until all of them are installed. and install the assembly on the mainshaft.
32 Grease the pushrod lightly and insert it through the center of the 45 Fit the dished lockwasher over the mainshaft (dished side or
shaft until it is seated. On 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models, OUTSIDE marking facing outwards) and install the clutch center
the gold anodized end of the pushrod should be on the slave cylinder locknut. Retain the mainshaft using the method employed on removal
side of the engine. and tighten the nut to the specified torque.
33 Install the clutch release bearing and lifter guide into the pressure 46 Lightly grease the long pushrod and slide it into the mainshaft.
plate and place the pressure plate into position over the clutch center. Install the lifter plate, complete with release bearing and guide and
34 Place the clutch springs into place. Then install the pressure plate secure with the large circlip.
bolts and washers and tighten them evenly in a criss-cross pattern. 47 Refer to Steps 35 to 38 above to install the remaining components
35 Reinstall the primary drive gear and starter clutch assembly. and refill the engine with the proper amount and grade of oil (see
Chapter 1).
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-29

6 Remove the clutch lever (complete with the freeplay adjuster on the
1985 1100 Sabre and 1985/86 1100 Magna models).
7 Disconnect the wiring leads from the clutch switch and then remove
the switch.
8 Remove the two master cylinder mounting bolts and lift the cylinder
off the handlebars. On early models, the choke cable locates in the
master cylinder clamp; leave the clamp in place on the cable.
9 If not already done, remove the reservoir cover, plate (where fitted)
and diaphragm, plus the float on 1988 models. Drain off any residual
fluid.
10 Remove the pushrod from its dust boot.
11 Carefully remove the rubber pushrod boot from the piston opening.
12 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the circlip and slide out the piston,
the cups and the spring. Lay the parts out in the proper order to
prevent confusion during reassembly.

Inspection
13 Clean all of the parts with brake cleaning solvent (available at auto
parts stores), isopropyl alcohol, or clean brake fluid. Caution: Do not,
under any circumstances, use a petroleum based solvent to clean
these parts. If compressed air is available, use it to dry the parts
thoroughly. Check the master cylinder bore for scratches, nicks and
score marks. If damage is evident, the master cylinder must be
replaced with a new one.
14 Measure the bore with a small hole gauge and micrometer and
compare the results to the Specifications. If the bore is worn beyond
15.1 Clutch master cylinder component parts (early model type the allowable limits, the master cylinder must be replaced with a new
shown) one. If the necessary precision measuring tools are not available, a
dealer service department or motorcycle repair shop can make the
measurements for you.
15 Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and 15 Measure the outside diameter of the piston and compare it to the
installation Specifications. If the piston is worn beyond the allowable limits, it must
be replaced with a new one. The rebuild kit should contain a new
piston; use it regardless of the condition of the old one.
Caution: To prevent damage to the paint from spilled hydraulic fluid,
always cover the fuel tank when working on the master cylinder.
Disassembly, overhaul, and reassembly of the clutch master cylinder
Reassembly and installation
must be done in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid contamination 16 Before reassembling the master cylinder, soak the new rubber cups
and possible failure of the hydraulic system components. Refer to in clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes. Lubricate the master
illustration 15.1 cylinder bore with clean brake fluid, then carefully insert the piston and
related parts in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure the lips on
Removal and dismantling the cups do not turn inside out when the cups are slipped into the bore.
17 Install the circlip, making sure it is properly seated in its groove,
1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid or if lever movement does not
then install the rubber dust boot and pushrod.
produce clutch disengagement, and bleeding the system does not
18 Attach the master cylinder to the handlebar (if the clamp has an UP
help, master cylinder overhaul is recommended (see illustration).
marking, fit is so that it is facing upwards) and position the assembly so
Before disassembling the master cylinder, read through the entire
that the body-to-clamp top mating surface aligns with the punch mark
procedure and make sure that you have the correct rebuild kit. Also,
on the handlebar. Install the clamp bolts and tighten the top one fully,
you will need some new, clean brake fluid of the recommended type,
followed by the bottom bolt.
some clean rags, internal snap-ring pliers, a O-to-1 inch micrometer
19 Install the clutch lever and tighten the pivot bolt locknut. Be sure the
and a small hole gauge.
master cylinder pushrod is correctly engaged in the lever end-piece.
2 Remove the left rear view mirror.
20 Install the clutch switch and hook up the switch wiring. Connect the
3 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain just enough fluid from the system to
hose to the master cylinder and install the mirror. Fill the system with
empty the master cylinder. Note: When pumping the clutch lever, do
new hydraulic fluid and refer to Chapter 1 to bleed the air from the
not bring it all the way back to the handlebar, as this will cause piston
system, then install the reservoir float (1988 models), diaphragm, plate
over-travel and fluid leakage. To prevent this, hold a 3/4 in (20 mm)
(where fitted) and cover.
spacer (made from a block of wood) between the lever and the
21 On the 1985 1100 Sabre and 1985/86 1100 Magnas set the clutch
handlebar. When the master cylinder is empty, retighten the bleeder
lever freeplay as described in Chapter 1.
valve on the slave cylinder.
4 To reduce the amount of air entering the clutch lines, and subsequent
bleeding, the line should be securely plugged immediately after
disconnecting it from the master cylinder. This can be done with an 8 x 16 Clutch slave cylinder - removal, overhaul and
20 mm bolt and nut. installation
5 Pull back the rubber boot, loosen the master cylinder banjo fitting bolt
and pull the hose and bolt away from the cylinder as a unit. Have a Caution: To prevent damage to the painted cycle parts from spilled
container handy to catch any brake fluid that may drip out of the master brake fluid, always cover the surrounding area when working on the
cylinder fitting. Quickly place your finger over the end of the hollow bolt slave cylinder. Disassembly, overhaul, and reassembly of the clutch
to prevent the entrance of air into the lower part of the hydraulic slave cylinder must be done in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid
system. Working quickly, remove the hollow bolt, slip the 8 mm bolt
(along with the sealing washers) through the banjo fitting, thread on the
nut and tighten it securely. Wipe up any spilled brake fluid.

1
2-30 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

16.5a Clutch slave cylinder components parts 16.5b Piston seal lip (arrow) should face towards the bore
on installation

Inspection
Refer to illustrations 16.5a, 16.5b and 16.8
5 Whenever the piston has been removed from the cylinder, the piston
seal and oil seal should both be replaced. Note that the lip of the piston
seal should face into the bore (see illustrations).
6 Inspect both the outer surface of the piston and the inner surface of
the cylinder for scoring or scratches.
7 Measure the outside diameter of the piston with a micrometer and the
inside diameter of the cylinder bore and compare it to the Specifications
at the beginning of this Chapter. If either the piston or the cylinder
needs to be replaced, both should be replaced together, Remove the
spring from the piston and check it for weakness or damage.
8 With the assembly out of the crankcase, wipe the cavity clean and
inspect it for the presence of any crankcase oil, which would mean a
new oil seal is needed in the cavity (see illustration). To replace this,
pull out the clutch pushrod and pry the old seal out, drive the new one
in using a suitable sized socket.
16.8 Pry pushrod oil seal out of casing when pushrod has been
removed
Reassembly and installation
9 If the long pushrod was removed, grease it lightly and insert it into
the oil seal. On 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models, the gold
contamination and possible failure of the hydraulic system components, anodized end of the pushrod should be on the slave cylinder side of
the engine.
Removal and dismantling 10 Assemble the slave cylinder by attaching the spring to the piston
1 Remove the left rear crankcase cover. The cover is retained by a and installing the piston into the cylinder body with the oil seal side
single bolt on all 700/750 Sabre models and 1982 through 1984 facing out. Prior to installing the piston or piston seal, lubricate them
700/750 Magna models; note the long collar inside the cover. On all with a medium grade high-temperature silicon grease or brake fluid.
1100 models and 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models the cover 11 Installation of the assembly is the reverse of the removal procedure,
is retained by three bolts. while noting the following.
2 Place a container under the slave cylinder to catch dripping fluid and a) Install the insulating gasket between the slave cylinder and
then remove the banjo bolt that retains the fluid line coupling to the crankcase.
slave cylinder cover. Allow the clutch hose to drain into the container. b) New sealing washers should be used on each side of the fluid line
3 Remove the slave cylinder mounting bolts (plus the rear cover banjo bolt
bracket bolts where the bracket might hinder removal) and withdraw c) On later models ensure that the line coupling butts against the cast
the cylinder and insulating gasket from the crankcase. Note that the tab on the slave cylinder.
cylinder assembly may separate during removal. If the piston does not d) Fill the clutch fluid reservoir with fresh fluid and bleed the system as
come out with the cylinder, pull the piston off of the clutch pushrod and described in Chapter 1.
remove it from the motorcycle.
4 If the piston and cylinder come out as one unit, the cylinder can be
tapped with a block of wood to force the piston out. Another method is 17 External gearshift mechanism - removal, inspection and
to reconnect the clutch hose to the cylinder and operate the clutch installation
lever to force the piston out. A third method, if an air compressor is
available, is to force the piston out using compressed air, but do not try
to catch the piston with your hand. Always use a thick towel or rag and Note: The gearshift mechanism components can be removed with the
apply the air in short spurts. engine in the frame. If work is being carried out with the engine
removed ignore the preliminary steps.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-31

17.4 Method of locking oil pump driven 17.6 Remove its nut and withdraw the 17.7 Support the claw arm as shown and
sprocket while bolt is loosened drum stopper arm (arrow) withdraw the gearshift splindle from
the crankcase
Removal
Refer to illustrations 17.4, 17.6, 17.7and 17.8
1 Remove the left rear crankcase cover. The cover is retained by a
single bolt on all 700/750 Sabre models and 1982 through 1984
700/750 Magna models; note the long collar inside the cover. On all
1100 models and 1985 through 700/750 Magna models the cover is
retained by three bolts.
2 Remove the gearshift lever, as described in Section 18.
3 Remove the clutch assembly as described in Section 14.
4 Insert a long screwdriver through one of the holes of the oil pump
sprocket, located below the clutch, and engage it in the crankcase
opening behind the sprocket (see illustration). This will keep the
sprocket from rotating. Now remove the sprocket bolt, disengage the
sprocket from the chain and lift it out.
5 Lift off the drive chain, and remove the oil pump drive sprocket from
the mainshaft.
6 Make a note of the engaged position of the spring, then remove the
nut that retains the drum stopper arm and lift the arm off along with its
spring, collar and washers (see illustration).
7 Withdraw the complete gearshift spindle assembly from the
crankcase (see illustration). The springs do not need to be removed 17.8 Remove its bolt and lift off the neutral stopper arm (arrow)
from the spindle unless they are being replaced.
8 Disengage the spring from the neutral stopper arm. Remove the bolt
and lift off the arm (see illustration).
9 Remove the shift drum cam plate bolt and lift off the cam plate. Do the cam plate hole. Apply thread sealant to the cam plate bolt and
not lose the five pins in the cam plate. tighten it securely.
15 Install the neutral stopper arm and bolt. Again, apply thread sealant
Inspection to the bolt before installing it. Slip the spring over the bolt and engage it
10 Clean all the parts with solvent and dry them thoroughly. with the stopper arm and crankcase boss.
11 Examine the gearshift spindle for wear, particularly at the upper arm 16 If the springs were removed from the gearshift spindle, assemble
them. Apply a smear of grease to the gearshift spindle and wrap its
shift pawls. Make sure the shaft is not bent and check the springs for
splines with electrical tape, so they won't damage the seal as the shaft
cracks and excessive stretch; the small spring at the upper arm join
is installed. Insert it through the crankcase ensuring that the return
was liable to fracture at its upper connecting hook on early models -
spring is properly engaged on the crankcase stud. Also, be sure the
ensure that this spring is replaced with the modified type, marked with
upper arm is correctly positioned in relation to the cam plate.
yellow paint. The upper arm must be straight and free to move at its
17 Assemble the drum stopper arm, spring, washers and collar into
pivot point. position and secure them with the retaining nut. Be sure the spring is
12 Check the stopper arm, the plate and the pins for excessive wear properly engaged. On later models, the inner washer has an extension
and replace any worn or damaged parts with new ones. which engages the cast rib in the bottom of the casing.
13 The gearshift shaft oil seal is located behind the output gear case on 18 Having removed any tape from its splines, install the gearshift lever
the left side of the lower crankcase half. If signs of oil leakage are and operate the gearshift linkage mechanism to be sure it works
evident, remove the output gear case (see Section 23) and with the smoothly. Be sure the punch mark on the lever aligns with the mark on
gearshift shaft removed, pry the oil seal from position. Use a socket the gearshift spindle.
wrench as a drift to drive the new seal squarely into the crankcase. 19 The remainder of the components are installed in the reverse order
of removal. When installing the oil pump drive sprocket, the drive dogs
Installation must face outwards. If the pump driven sprocket has an IN marking on
14 If removed, insert the five pins in the cam plate. Position the cam one of its faces, position the sprocket with the IN marking facing the
plate on the shift drum so that the shift drum dowel pin is engaged in crankcase.

1
2-32 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

18.1 Gearshift lever-to-footpeg and gearshift shaft bolts

18 Gearshift lever - removal, and installation

Removal 19.1 Alternator component parts (early type shown)

Sabre models
Refer to illustration 18.1
1 Remove the shift lever bolt that attaches it to the footpeg bracket
(see illustration).
2 Remove the left crankcase rear cover. Remove the pinch bolt
that attaches the lever assembly to the gearshift shaft and slide it
off of the shaft.
3 If only the gearshift lever needs to be replaced, loosen the
locknut on the threaded link and unscrew the balljoint from the
stud. The balljoint and lever are replaced as one unit. Note: Prior
to loosening the stud nuts, mark them with a dot of paint to show
the original adjustment position.
4 Both balljoints should be inspected for freedom of movement. If
there is any roughness or binding they should be replaced by
unscrewing them from the threaded link.
Magna models
5 Remove the left crankcase rear cover.
6 Disconnect the gearshift lever from the gearshift shaft.
7 Remove the left footpeg bracket bolts and lift off the bracket with
the gearshift lever.
8 Unscrew the attaching bolt and lift the gearshift lever off of the 19.3 Rotor must be withdrawn using center-bolt puller
bracket.
9 Dismantle the balljoints and threaded link as described in Steps
3 and 4 above. any other method. The alternator can be removed with the engine in
the frame. If work is being carried out with the engine removed, ignore
Installation - all models the preliminary steps.
10 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following. Removal
a) When installing the gearshift lever onto the gearshift shaft ensure that Refer to illustrations 19.1 and 19.3
the two punch marks line up. 1 There will be a certain amount of oil loss when the alternator
b) If the balljoints positions were disturbed, ensure that they are cover is removed, so make sure the motorcycle is positioned
returned to their original positions on the threaded link. If no upright (on its main stand if one is fitted) and place a drain tray
record was made, or new parts are being fitted, adjust the under the cover. Remove its six bolts and withdraw the alternator
threaded link so that pedal height is comfortable in the riding cover from the left side of the engine (see illustration).
position. 2 In order to remove the rotor mounting bolt, the rotor must be kept
from turning. Honda dealers can supply service tools to engage the
holes in the rotor face or a band-type strap wrench to fit around the
19 Alternator - removal and installation rotor periphery. Alternatively, try one of the following methods.
a) A strap wrench can be used on the periphery of the rotor to hold it
Note: To remove the alternator rotor the special Honda rotor puller, still.
Part Number 07733-0020001 or 07933-3290001, or a pattern b) The engine can be locked through the transmission. If the engine is
equivalent will be required. Do not attempt to remove the rotor using in the frame, shift it into sixth gear and have an assistant sit on the
motorcycle while applying the rear brake hard.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-33

main stand is fitted. Remove the front cylinder bank exhaust pipes
(see Chapter 4). On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models,
remove the belly fairing (see Chapter 6). On 1986 through 1988
California models, detach the secondary air supply system air
suction valve from the front of the oil pan.
2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Remove the nine oil pan bolts and lift off the oil pan. Have a
drain pan handy to catch any residual oil.
4 Remove the oil strainer from the oil pump (see illustration
21.18).

Installation
5 Clean the strainer thoroughly with solvent and reinstall it on the
oil pump, taking care not to displace the sealing ring on its union.
6 While the oil pan is removed, check the operation of the
pressure relief valve as described in Section 22.
7 Clean the oil pan interior thoroughly and install it on the engine (if
its sealing ring is damaged, replace it with a new one). Install the
exhaust pipes, air suction valve and belly fairing (where fitted),
then fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of oil (see
Chapter 1).
21.15 Oil pump driven sprocket bolt

21 Oil pump - pressure check, removal, overhaul and

installation
3 Once the rotor bolt has been removed, the rotor can be pulled
from its shaft by screwing the special Honda tool (see Note at
beginning of this section) into its thread. The tool threads into the Pressure check
rotor and pushes against the crankshaft to draw the rotor off its 1 To check the oil pressure, a suitable gauge and adapter piece
taper (see illustration). A bolt of the correct diameter and thread (which screws into the oil pressure switch thread) will be needed.
size would also work if one large enough is available. Carefully 2 Check the oil level (Chapter 1). Warm the engine up to normal
tighten the tool until the rotor pops off of the shaft. Caution: Be operating temperature then stop it.
careful not to drop or strike the rotor or its magnetism will be 3 Remove the oil pressure switch as described in Chapter 8.
impaired. Do not, under any circumstances use a common gear 4 Screw the adapter into the oil pressure switch threads in the top
puller to remove the rotor, as damage will result. of the crankcase and connect the gauge to the adapter.
4 If the Woodruff key in the crankshaft taper is loose, keep it with 5 Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 5000 rpm
the rotor for safekeeping. while watching the gauge reading. The oil pressure should be
5 If the stator needs to be removed, first remove the seat and left similar to that given in the Specifications at the start of this
side cover from the motorcycle to gain access to its wiring Chapter.
connector. Disconnect the connector and free the wiring from any 6 If the pressure is significantly lower than the standard, either the
clamps and ties on the frame. relief valve is stuck open, the oil pump is faulty, the oil pump pick-
6 Remove the wiring harness clamp from inside the alternator up strainer is blocked or there is other engine damage. Begin
housing and free the grommet from the casing. diagnosis by checking the oil pump pick-up strainer and relief
7 Remove the stator mounting screws and lift it off, complete with valve, then the oil pump. If those items check out okay, chances
the harness. are the bearing oil clearances are excessive and the engine needs
to be overhauled.
Installation 7 If the pressure is too high, the relief valve is stuck closed. To
8 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, with the check it, see Section 22.
following notes. 8 Stop the engine and unscrew the gauge and adapter from the
crankcase.
a) Degrease the rotor and crankshaft tapers and remove any metal
9 Install the oil pressure switch as described in Chapter 8.
particles of swarf from the rotor magnet. Remove all traces of
gasket from the cover and crankcase mating surfaces.
b) Be sure the wiring harness is properly routed and secured with the
Removal
wire bands. Refer to illustrations 21.15 and 21.18
c) The rotor is installed on the crankshaft by aligning its groove with the Note: The oil pump can be removed with the engine in the frame; if the
Woodruff key and sliding it on. Install the mounting bolt and, while engine has already been removed ignore the steps which don't apply.
keeping the rotor from turning, tighten the bolt to its proper torque. 10 Drain the engine oil.
d )Top up the engine oil if work is being carried out with the engine in 11 Remove the oil pan (see Section 20).
the frame (see Chapter 1). 12 On all models remove the rear brake pedal, and on 1100
Magna models also remove the right footpeg.
13 Remove the right crankcase cover bolts. There are two different
size bolts, so make a note of their location or store them in the old
20 Oil pan and strainer - removal and installation
gasket when this has been removed.
14 Tap the crankcase cover gently with a soft-faced hammer to
Note: The oil pan and strainer can be removed with the engine in the break the gasket seal, then pull it away from the engine. Do not pry
frame. If work is being carried out with the engine removed ignore the between the gasket sealing surfaces, as damage and eventually
preliminary steps. oil leaks will occur. Discard the old gasket and remove the dowels
for safekeeping in they are loose.
Removal 15 Locate the oil pump driven sprocket, directly below the clutch
1 Place the motorcycle on its main stand or an auxiliary stand if assembly, and remove the sprocket bolt and washer (see
no illustration). Hold the sprocket in place in order to loosen the bolt
by inserting a screwdriver through one of the sprocket holes and
engaging it in the crankcase opening behind the sprocket (see
illustration 17.4).
2-34 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

21.18 Oil pan component locations 21.26a Measuring oil pump inner-to-outer rotor clearance
1 Oil pump 3 Oil strainer
2 Oil pass pipe 4 Oil pressure relief valve

21.26b Measuring oil pump outer rotor- 21.26c Use a straightedge and feeler 21.29 Engage inner rotor slots with drive
to-body clearance blades to measure rotor end clearance pin (arrow) on installation
16 Disengage the sprocket from the chain and remove it. illustrations).
17 Remove the water pump on all models except the 1985 through 27 If the oil pump clearances are excessive, or if excessive wear is
1988 700/750 Magna models (see Chapter 3). evident, replace the oil pump as a complete unit.
18 Remove the oil strainer and lift out the oil pass pipe (see 28 As the parts are assembled, lubricate them liberally with clean
illustration). Check the condition of the O-rings on both ends of the engine oil or grease.
pass pipe. If they are nicked or damaged, replace them with new ones. 29 Install the outer rotor in the pump body. Be sure the indented mark
19 Remove the oil pump mounting bolts and lift out the pump. in the rotor faces away from the body. Slip the drive pin through the
20 If the oil pump is to be disassembled, straighten and remove the pin shaft, then slide the inner rotor onto the shaft and engage the slots in
that retains the oil strainer stay to the oil pump. Check the oil strainer the rotor with the drive pin ends (see illustration).
stay O-rings for damage and replace them if necessary. 30 Insert the shaft through the pump body and mesh the rotors. Install
the cover (with the dowel pin in place) and tighten the screws evenly
Overhaul and securely.
Refer to illustrations 21.26a, 21.26b, 21.26c and 21.29 31 Make sure the pump operates smoothly.
21 Remove the three bolts that secure the oil pump body cover and lift
it off. Do not lose the dowel pin. Installation
22 Withdraw the rotor shaft and inner rotor from the body and remove 32 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure with the
the drive pin from the shaft. Separate the inner rotor from the shaft. following notes:
23 Remove the outer rotor from the body. a) On 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models, where the water
24 Clean the parts with solvent and dry them thoroughly. If available, pump remained in place, mesh the oil pump and water pump
use compressed air to blow out all of the passages. driveshaft ends.
25 Check the entire pump body and cover for cracks and evidence of b) When installing the strainer stay to the oil pump, use a new pin.
wear. Look closely for a ridge where the rotors contact the body and Also, be sure the O-rings are properly installed on the strainer stay
cover. and pass pipe.
26 Reassemble the rotors and the shaft in the pump body and use c) If the oil pump driven sprocket has an IN marking on one of its
feeler gauges to check the inner rotor-to-outer rotor clearance, the faces, this must be installed so that it faces the crankcase.
outer rotor-to-pump body clearance and the rotor end clearance (see d) Following installation, fill the crankcase with the proper amount
and grade of new engine oil. Refer to Chapter 1, if necessary.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-35

23.2 Release all eight bolts (arrows) to 23.4 Measuring gearcase gasket 23.5 O-ring and pushrod oil seal positions
release output gearcase from crankcase thickness (1982 models) (arrow). Check that oil nozzle (A) is clear.
and countershaft bearing holder
output shaft case - ensure that the output case is withdrawn squarely
22 Oil pressure relief valve - removal, inspection and to prevent the bearing holder tying in the case bore.
installation 4 After removing the gearcase peel off the case gasket; a new one
must be fitted on installation. On 1982 models the gasket must be
Note: The pressure relief valve can be removed with the engine in the inspected closely for a thickness marking. If marks can be found,
frame. be sure to use a new gasket of the same thickness, but if not use a
micrometer to measure the thickness of the gasket (see
Removal illustration). When doing this, be sure the gasket is not torn at the
point of measurement and due to the old gasket having been
1 Remove the oil pan as described in Section 20.
crushed slightly in use, add 0.05 mm (0.002 in) to the
2 Pull the oil pressure relief valve out of its location in the measurement to arrive at the required thickness of the
crankcase, next to the oil pass pipe (see illustration 21.18). replacement. Note: Correct gasket thickness is critical to the
alignment of the output gears. On all later models only one
Inspection thickness gasket is available so this check is not necessary.
3 Push the plunger into the relief valve body and check for free 5 Inspect the condition of the visible O-rings and pushrod oil seal
movement. If the valve operation is sticky it must be replaced (see illustration). If they show any signs of hardening, cracking or
(apart from the O-ring, individual parts are not available). It is, other damage they must be replaced. Also check the condition of
however, possible to dismantle the valve for cleaning; using snap- the gearshift shaft oil seal located at the bottom of the output
ring pliers, remove the snap-ring from the valve end and withdraw gearcase gasket surface on the crankcase. Due to its
the plain washer, spring and piston from the body. inaccessibility, it is a good idea to replace it at this stage if in an
doubt about its condition (the gearshift shaft will have to be
Installation removed first - see Section 17).
4 Use a new O-ring on the relief valve body and push it into the 6 Before disturbing the position of the countershaft, make thin
crankcase. Install the oil pan (see Section 20). alignment marks with a scribe or white paint across the bearing
holder and crankcase as an aid to installation of the output
gearcase.

23 Output gearcase - removal, inspection and installation Inspection

7 Because of the critical nature of the output gear assembly and
Note: The output gear assembly must be removed with the engine out of the number of special tools needed to disassemble, inspect and
the frame. reassemble it, the assembly should be taken to a Honda dealer if
overhaul is required. This applies equally to removal of the helical
Removal gear and bearing on the countershaft end, although removal and
disassembly of the countershaft gears can be accomplished in the
Refer to illustrations 23.2, 23.4 and 23.5
home workshop (see Section 31).
1 Remove the engine from the frame (see Section 5). Release its
cover and remove the gearchange/neutral/OD switch and its wiring Installation
(see Chapter 8). Remove the water pump (see Chapter 3).
2 Remove all eight output gear assembly case bolts, and store Note: If a new output gearcase or new crankcase, new countershaft or
them in a cardboard template of the case to ensure they can be bearing has been installed, the countershaft spacer clearance (endfloat)
returned to their original locations (see illustration). This will must be measured and if necessary adjusted, as described in Section
detach the case from the crankcases and from the output gear 31.
bearing housing, leaving the output gear and bearing housing 8 Using the marks made on removal, check that the countershaft
installed on the countershaft. bearing holder-to-crankcase alignment is correct; this will ensure
3 Don't pry the output gear case off the crankcase; if it is stubborn, that the holes line up when the output gearcase is fitted.
tap it with a soft-faced hammer while simultaneously pulling it off 9 Fit a new gasket on the crankcase, having selected the correct
the casing and rotating the output shaft stub to help thickness gasket on 1982 models. Check that the new O-rings and
disengagement of the helical gears. Caution: There will be a certain the dowel are in position and make sure any shims found when
amount of resistance due to the countershaft bearing holder being an removing the output gearcase are installed against the bearing
interference fit in the holder. Install the output gearcase on the crankcase and tap it
squarely onto the bearing holder shoulder using a soft-faced
hammer, rotating the output shaft stub to help the helical gears
engage.
2-36 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

24.2 Upper crankcase half bolts (arrows) 24.3 Mainshaft bearing retaining plate and 24.10 Do not apply sealant to this area of
- rear three bolts have washers under hidden crankcase bolt (arrows) main bearing mating surfaces
their heads
10 Install the gearcase mounting bolts in their original positions Reassembly
and tighten them to the specified torque.
Refer to illustrations 24.10, 24.12a and 24.12b
11 Refit the water pump (see Chapter 3), gearchange/neutral/OD
Note: If new crankcases, or a new output gearcase, countershaft or
switch (see Chapter 8), and engine (see Chapter 5).
countershaft bearing have been fitted, the countershaft endfloat must
be checked before assembling the case halves (see Section 31).
7 Prior to assembling the crankcase halves, be sure the shift drum
24 Crankcase - separation and and forks, transmission shafts, crankshaft (with camchains),
pistons and connecting rods have been installed.
reassembly Separation 8 Clean the mating surfaces of both crankcase halves with lacquer
thinner or acetone.
Refer to illustrations 24.2 and 24.3 9 If not done previously, apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the
1 Prior to separating the crankcase halves, the engine must be shift fork grooves of the transmission gears.
removed from the frame as described in Section 5 and the 10 Apply a thin coat of liquid gasket sealant to the mating surfaces
following components removed from the engine. of both crankcase halves. Note: Do not apply sealant to the area
Cylinder heads (Section 10) near the main bearings (see illustration). Ensure the locating
Camchain fens/oner guides (Section 8) dowel(s) is/are in position.
Starter clutch (Section 13) 11 Carefully lower the crankcase half onto the upper crankcase,
Clutch (Section 14) being sure to align the shift fork claws with the gear fork grooves.
Pulse generators (Chapter 4) 12 With the crankcase halves pressed together, install the lower
Oil pressure switch (Chapter 8) crankcase bolts, being sure they are installed in their original
Alternator rotor and stator (Section 19) locations. Tighten the bolts evenly, in two or three steps to the
Water pump (Chapters) specified torque, noting that the torque differs according to thread
Gearchange/neutral/OD switch (Chapter 8) diameter. On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas tighten them in a
External gearshift linkage (Section 17) criss-cross pattern, starting with the 9 mm main bearing bolts first;
Starter motor (Chapter 8) on all other models follow the tightening sequence (see
Oil pump (Section 21) illustrations).
Output gearcase (Section 23) 13 Turn the engine over so it is resting on the lower crankcase.
2 Remove the four upper crankcase bolts (see illustration). Install the four upper crankcase bolts, again tightening them evenly
3 Remove the mainshaft bearing holder by removing the screw and in a criss-cross pattern to their proper torque. Note: Where
and two bolts. Also remove the crankcase bolt located behind the fitted, ensure the plain washers are installed with the three rear bolts.
holder, across the casing joint (see illustration). 14 Install the crankcase bolt located behind the mainshaft bearing
4 Turn the engine over so it is resting on the upper half of the holder, then install the bearing holder and tighten it securely.
crankcase and remove the remaining 24 (1987 and 1988 700/750 15 When installing the output gearcase, refer to Section 23 for the
Magnas) or 28 (all other models) lower crankcase bolts. To prevent proper procedure, including new gasket selection on 1982 models.
distortion of the case, loosen the bolts evenly in a criss-cross 16 The remainder of the reassembly sequence is the reverse of
pattern for 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas, or in a reverse of the the dismantling.
tightening sequence for all other models. The bolts are of differing
lengths, and some have washers under their heads; make up a
cardboard template of the lower crankcase so that the bolts can be 25 Crankcase - inspection and servicing
stored in their original locations.
5 Gently tap the lower case with a soft-faced hammer to break the
seal, then carefully lift it away from the upper case. Caution: Do 1 After the crankcases have been separated and the crankshaft
not under any circumstances pry between the cases to separate them and transmission components have been removed, the
as damage to the sealing surfaces will result. If resistance is encountered, crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly with new solvent and
double check to make sure that all of the bolts have been dried with compressed air.
removed.
6 To completely strip the crankcase, refer to the following Sections Cylinder bores
to remove the pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, transmission Refer to illustration 25.3
shafts and shift drum/forks. Note: Don't attempt to separate the liners from the cylinder block.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-37

24.12a Lower crankcase bolt tightening sequence - 1982 through 24.12b Lower crankcase bolt tightening sequence - 1985 and
1985 700/750 Sabre models, 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna 1986 700 Magna models
models, and all 1100 models
2 Check the cylinder walls carefully for scratches and score marks.
3 Using the appropriate precision measuring tools, check each
cylinder's diameter (see illustration). Measure near the top, center
and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next,
measure each cylinder's diameter at the same three locations across
the crankshaft axis. Compare the results to this Chapter's Specifi-
cations. If the cylinder bores are tapered, out-of-round, worn beyond
the specified limits, or badly scuffed or scored, have them rebored and
honed by a dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop. If a
rebore is done, oversize pistons and rings will be required as well.
Honda produce four sizes of oversize pistons (see Section 29).
4 As an alternative, if the precision measuring tools are not available, a
dealer service department or motorcycle repair shop will make the
measurements and offer advice concerning servicing of the cylinders.
5 If they are in reasonably good condition and not worn to the outside
of the limits, and if the piston-to-cylinder clearances can be maintained
properly (see Section 29), then the cylinders do not have to be
rebored; honing is all that is necessary.
6 To perform the honing operation you will need the proper size flexible 25.3 Measuring cylinder bore diameter
hone with fine stones, or a "bottle brush' type hone, plenty of light oil or
honing oil, some shop towels and an electric drill motor. Hold the upper
crankcase half in a vise (cushioned with soft jaws or wood blocks)
when performing the honing operation. Mount the hone in the drill the cylinder wall. If you do not have the tools, or do not desire to
motor, compress the stones and slip the hone into the top of the perform the honing operation, a dealer service department or
cylinder. Lubricate the cylinder thoroughly, turn on the drill and move motorcycle repair shop will generally do it for a reasonable fee.
the hone up and down in the cylinder at a pace which will produce a 7 Next, the cylinders must be thoroughly washed with warm soapy
fine crosshatch pattern on the cylinder wall with the crosshatch lines water to remove all traces of the abrasive grit produced during the
intersecting at approximately a 60(тут за цифро занчок honing operation. Be sure to run a brush through the bolt holes and
бесконечности был) angle. Be sure to use plenty of lubricant and do flush them with running water. After rinsing, dry the cylinders
not take off any more material than is absolutely necessary to produce thoroughly and apply a coat of light, rust-preventative oil to all
the desired effect. Do not withdraw the hone from the cylinder while it is machined surfaces.
running. Instead, shut off the drill and continue moving the hone up and
down in the cylinder until it comes to a complete stop, then compress Crankcase castings
the stones and withdraw the hone. Wipe the oil out of the cylinder and
repeat the procedure on the other cylinders. Remember, do not remove 8 Remove any oil passage plugs that haven't already been removed.
too much material from All oil passages should be blown out with compressed air.
9 All traces of old gasket sealant should be removed from the
2-38 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

26.2 Camchain tensioner components

26.5 Measuring camchain stretch with a spring balance
1 Tensioner 3 Guide blade
2 Slipper blade

mating surfaces. Minor damage to the surfaces can be cleaned up 4 Check the camchains for binding and obvious damage and
with a fine sharpening stone or grindstone. Caution: Be very inspect the sprockets for damage such as chipped or missing
careful not to nick or gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or leaks will teeth. If either of these conditions are visible, or if the chain
result. Check both crankcase halves very carefully for cracks and other appears to be stretched, both chains and sprockets (crankshaft
damage. and both camshaft sprockets) should be replaced as a set.
10 Small cracks or holes in aluminum castings may be repaired 5 With the use of a spring balance it is possible to measure the
with an epoxy resin adhesive as a temporary measure. Permanent amount of chain stretch and compare it with the service limit (see
repairs can only be effected by argon-arc welding, and only a Specifications) to determine whether it needs replacing. With the
specialist in this process is in a position to advise on the economy chain around the sprocket of one camshaft secured in the cylinder
or practical aspect of such a repair. If any damage is found that head, install the other sprocket in the chain loop and use apply a
can't be repaired, replace the crankcase halves as a set. force of 13 kg (26 Ibs) on the spring balance (hooked through the
11 Damaged threads can be economically reclaimed by using a outer sprocket bolt hole). Measure the distance between the
diamond section wire insert, of the Helicoil type, which is easily sprocket centers or between the sprocket alignment marks (see
fitted after drilling and re-tapping the affected thread. Most illustration).
motorcycle dealers and small engineering firms offer a service of 6 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure.
this kind.
12 Sheared studs or screws can usually be removed with screw
extractors, which consist of a tapered, left thread screws of very 27 Main and connecting rod bearings - general note
hard steel. These are inserted into a pre-drilled hole in the stud,
and usually succeed in dislodging the most stubborn stud or
screw. If a problem arises which seems beyond your scope, it is 1 Even though main and connecting rod bearings are generally
worth consulting a professional engineering firm before condemning replaced with new ones during the engine overhaul, the old
an otherwise sound casing. Many of these firms advertise regularly bearings should be retained for close examination as they may
in the motorcycle press. reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine.
2 Bearing failure occurs mainly because of lack of lubrication, the
presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine
and/or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it
26 Camchains and guides - inspection and must be corrected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it
from happening again.
replacement Camchain tensioner, guides and 3 When examining the bearings, remove the main bearings from
the case halves and the rod bearings from the connecting rods and
caps and lay them out on a clean surface in the same general
slipper blades position as their location on the crankshaft journals. This will
enable you to match any noted bearing problems with the
Note: The camchain tensioner, guides and tensioner slipper blades can be corresponding crankshaft journal.
removed with the engine in the frame (see Section 8). Refer to illustration 4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the engine in a variety of
26.2 ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly or it may pass
1 Check for smooth operation of the tensioner, that its spring is through filters or breathers. It may get into the oil and from there
unbroken and that there is no wear at any of the tensioner arm or into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and
body pivots. normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes
2 Check the guides for deep grooves, cracking and other obvious left in engine components after reconditioning operations such as
damage, replacing them if necessary (see illustration). cylinder honing, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned
using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these
Camchains foreign objects often end up imbedded in the soft bearing material
Note: The engine must be removed from the frame and the crankcase and are easily recognized. Large particles will not imbed in the
halves separated to remove the camchains. Refer to illustration 26.5 bearing and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best
3 Remove the cylinder heads and separate the crankcase halves prevention for this cause of
(see Sections 10 and 24). The camchains can then be slipped off
the crankshaft sprockets.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-39

28.4 Be careful when handling main bearing inserts. Push them to 28.9 Bearing inserts are color-coded on their sides
one side to release from casing
bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly and keep everything camchains should be detached from the camshaft sprockets, and the
spotlessly clean during engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil connecting rod bearing caps should be removed (see Section 29,
and filter changes are also recommended. Steps 2 and 3). Push the pistons up to the top of the bores so that the
5 Lack of lubrication or lubrication breakdown has a number of connecting rod ends are positioned clear of the crankshaft.
interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading 3 Lift the crankshaft out of the upper crankcase half, taking care not to
(which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage or dislodge the bearing inserts.
throw off from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high 4 The main bearing inserts can be removed from the crankcase halves
engine speeds all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil by pushing their centers to the side, then lifting them out (see
passages will also starve a bearing and destroy it. When lack of illustration). Keep the bearing inserts in order.
lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped
or extruded from the steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may Inspection
increase to the point where the steel backing and the journal turn blue 5 Clean the crankshaft with solvent, using a rifle-cleaning brush to
from overheating. scrub out the oil passages. If available, blow the crank dry with
6 Riding habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full throttle compressed air.
low speed operation, or lugging (labouring) the engine, puts very high 6 Refer to Section 27 and examine the main bearing inserts. If they are
loads on bearings, which tend to squeeze out the oil film. These loads scored, badly scuffed or appear to have been seized, new bearings
cause the bearings to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing must be installed. Always replace the main bearings as a set. If they
face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bearing material will loosen in are badly damaged, check the corresponding crankshaft journal.
pieces and tear away from the steel backing. Short trip riding leads to Evidence of extreme heat, such as discoloration, indicates that
corrosion of bearings, as insufficient engine heat is produced to drive lubrication failure has occurred. Be sure to thoroughly check the oil
off the condensed water and corrosive gases produced. These pump and pressure relief valve as well as all oil holes and passages
products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is before reassembling the engine.
carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the 7 The crankshaft journals should be given a close visual examination,
bearing material. paying particular attention where damaged bearing inserts have been
7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to discovered. If the journals are scored or pitted in any way a new
bearing failure as well. Tight fitting bearings which leave insufficient crankshaft will be required. Note that undersizes are not available,
bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles precluding the option of re-grinding the crankshaft.
trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing 8 Set the crankshaft on V-blocks and check the runout with a dial
which lead to failure. indicator touching the center main bearing journal, comparing your
8 To avoid bearing problems, clean all parts thoroughly before findings with this Chapter's Specifications. If the runout exceeds the
reassembly, double check all bearing clearance measurements and limit, replace the crank.
lubricate the new bearings with clean engine oil during installation.
Bearing selection
Refer to illustrations 28.9, 28.10 and 28.11
28 Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection,
9 The main bearing running clearance is controlled in production by
bearing selection, oil clearance check and installation selecting one of five (700/750 models) or three (1100 models) grades
of bearing insert. The grades are indicated by a color-coding marked
Removal on the edge of each insert (see illustration). In order, from the thickest
to the thinnest, the insert grades are: Black, Blue, Brown, Green and
Refer to illustration 28.4 Yellow for 700/750 models and Brown, Green and Yellow for 1100
1 Separate the crankcase halves as described in Section 24. models. New bearing inserts are selected as follows using the
2 Remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies as described in crankshaft journal and crankcase main bearing bore size markings.
Section 29. Note: If no work is to be carried out on the 10 The standard crankshaft journal diameter is divided into size groups
piston/connecting rod assemblies there is no need to remove them to allow for manufacturing tolerances. The size group of each journal
from the bores. The cylinder heads can be left in position although the
can be determined by the numbers (1, 2 or 3 on 700/750
2-40 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

28.10 Location of main bearing journal size codes (arrows) - also 28.11 Main bearing bore diameter codes are stamped in upper
connecting rod journal sizes crankcase half (arrow)
models and 1 or 2 on 1100 models) which are stamped on each 17 If the first method is to be used, with the main bearing inserts in
crank web (see illustration). Note: Ignore the letters as these position, carefully lower the lower crankcase half onto the upper
refer to the crankpin journals. The numbers indicate the diameter half. Make sure that the shift forks (if fitted) engage with their
of the crankshaft journal immediately outboard of that web. If the respective slots in the countershaft gears as the halves are joined.
equipment is available, these marks can be checked by direct Check that the lower crankcase half is correctly seated. Note: Do
measurement. not tighten the crankcase bolts if the casing is not correctly seated.
11 The crankcase main bearing bore diameters are also divided Install all the lower crankcase bolts and following the correct
into size groups to allow for manufacturing tolerances. The size tightening sequence (see Section 24) tighten them to the specified
group of each main bearing bore can be determined using the four torque. Measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of
codes stamped on the rear outside face of the upper crankcase bearing inserts. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft
half (see illustration). These will be made up of the letters A, B or journal is measured and then subtracted from the bearing internal
C on 700/750 models and I and II or 1 and 2 on 1100 models. The diameter, the result will be the connecting rod bearing oil
first letter indicates the diameter of the left journal, and the last the clearance.
diameter of the right journal. If the equipment is available, these 18 If the second method is to be used, ensure the main bearing
marks can be checked by direct measurement. inserts are correctly fitted and that the inserts and crankshaft are
12 Match the relevant crankcase code with its crankshaft code and clean and dry. Lay the crankshaft in position in the upper
select a new set of bearing inserts using the following table. crankcase.
19 Cut several lengths of the appropriate size Plastigage (they
700/750 models should be slightly shorter than the width of the crankshaft journal).
Crank web mark Case mark Insert color Place a strand of Plastigage on each (cleaned) crankshaft journal,
1 A Yellow 1 avoiding the oilway.
B Green 1 C 20 Carefully lower the lower crankcase half onto the upper half.
Brown 2 A Green 2 Make sure that the shift forks (if fitted) engage with their respective
B Brown 2 C slots in the countershaft gears as the halves are joined. Check that
Black 3 A Brown 3 the lower crankcase half is correctly seated. Note: Do not tighten
B Black 3 C the crankcase bolts if the casing is not correctly seated and make sure
Blue the crankshaft is not rotated as the bolts are tightened. Install all the
lower crankcase bolts and following the correct tightening
sequence (see Section 24) tighten them to the specified torque.
21 Loosen and remove the crankcase bolts in a reverse of the
1100cc models tightening sequence, making sure the Plastigage is not disturbed.
Crank web mark Case mark Insert color 22 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each
1 I or 1 Yellow 1
crankshaft journal to the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope
to obtain the main bearing oil clearance (see illustration 29.37).
II or 2 Green 2 I or 1
23 If the clearance is not within the specified limits, the bearing
Green 2 II or 2 Brown
inserts may be the wrong grade (or excessively worn if the original
inserts are being re-used). Before deciding that different grade
Oil clearance check inserts are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped
13 Whether new bearing inserts are being fitted or the original between the bearing inserts and the crankcase halves when the
clearance was measured. If the clearance is excessive, even with
ones are being re-used, the main bearing oil clearance should be
new inserts (of the correct size), the crankshaft journal is worn and
checked prior to reassembly.
the crankshaft should be replaced.
14 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and the bearing locations
24 On completion carefully scrape away all traces of the
in both crankcase halves. Plastigage material from the crankshaft journal and bearing
15 Press the bearing inserts into their locations, ensuring that the inserts; use a fingernail or other object which is unlikely to score
tab on each insert engages in the notch in the crankcase. Make the inserts.
sure the bearings are fitted in the correct locations and take care
not to touch any insert's bearing surface with your fingers.
16 There are two possible ways of checking the oil clearance, the
Installation
first method is by direct measurement (see Step 17 and 23) and Refer to illustrations 28.26 and 28.27
the second by the use of a product known as Plastigage (see 25 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and the bearing
Steps 18 to 23). recesses in both crankcase halves. If new inserts are being fitted,
ensure that all traces of the protective grease are cleaned off
using kerosene
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-41

28.26 Ensure locating tab engages cutout (arrow) when installing 28.27 Oil insert liberally before crankshaft is installed
main bearing inserts
(paraffin). Wipe dry the inserts and crankcase halves with a lint-free 2 Using a center punch or paint, mark the relevant cylinder number on
cloth. each connecting rod and bearing cap (see illustration 1.1 at the
26 Press the bearing inserts into their locations. Make sure the tab on beginning of this Chapter).
each insert engages in the notch in the casing (see illustration). 3 Unscrew the bearing cap nuts and withdraw the cap, complete with
Make sure the bearings are fitted in the correct locations and take the lower bearing insert, from each of the four connecting rods. Push
care not to touch any insert's bearing surface with your fingers. the connecting rods up and off their crankpins, then remove the upper
27 Lubricate the bearing inserts in the upper crankcase with clean bearing insert. Keep the cap, nuts and (if they are to be re-used) the
engine oil (see illustration). bearing inserts together in their correct sequence.
28 Lower the crankshaft into position in the upper crankcase. 4 Remove the ridge of carbon from the top of each cylinder bore. If
29 Fit the piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft as there is a pronounced wear ridge at the top of each bore, remove it
described in Section 29 if they were disconnected. with a ridge reamer.
30 Reassemble the crankcase halves as described in Section 24. 5 Push each piston/connecting rod assembly up and remove it from the
top of the bore making sure the connecting rod does not mark the
cylinder bore walls. Caution: Do not try to remove the
29 Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal, piston/connecting rod from the bottom of the cylinder bore. The piston
inspection, bearing selection, oil clearance check and will not pass the crankcase main bearing webs. If the piston is pulled
right to the bottom of the bore the oil control ring will expand and lock
installation
the piston in position. If this happens it is likely the ring will be broken.
6 Immediately install the relevant bearing cap, inserts and nuts on each
Removal piston/connecting rod assembly so that they are all kept together as a
matched set.
Refer to illustrations 29.1 and 29.8 7 Using a sharp scriber, scratch the number of each piston into its
1 Separate the crankcase halves as described in Section 24. Before crown (or use a suitable marker pen if the piston is clean enough).
removing the piston/connecting rods from the crankshaft measure the 8 Support the first piston and, using a small screwdriver or scriber,
side clearance of each rod with a feeler gauge (see illustration). If the carefully pry out a circlip from the piston groove (see illustration).
clearance on any rod is greater than the service limit listed in this 9 Push the piston pin out from the opposite end to free the piston from
Chapter's Specifications, that rod will have to be replaced with a new the rod. You may have to deburr the area around the groove to
one.

29.1 Measuring connecting rod side clearance 29.8 Pry out the circlip from the piston groove
2-42 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

29.11 Use a ring removal and installation tool to remove top and 29.18 Measuring piston ring-to-groove clearance
second piston rings

enable the pin to slide out (use a triangular file for this procedure). If the oil ring grooves are clear.
the pin is tight, tap it out using a suitable hammer and punch, 15 If the pistons are not damaged or worn excessively and if the
taking care not to damage the piston. Repeat the procedure for the cylinders are not to be rebored, new pistons will not be necessary.
other pistons. Normal piston wear appears as even, vertical wear on the thrust
surfaces of the piston and slight looseness of the top ring in its
Inspection groove. New piston rings, on the other hand, should always be
used when an engine is rebuilt.
Refer to illustrations 29.11, 29.18, 29.19, 29.20a, 29.20b and 29.23
16 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, at the
Pistons pin bosses and at the ring lands.
17 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust faces of the skirt,
10 Before the inspection process can be carried out, the pistons holes in the piston crown and burned areas at the edge of the
must be cleaned and the old piston rings removed. crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been
11 Using a piston ring removal and installation tool, carefully suffering from overheating and/or abnormal combustion, which
remove the rings from the pistons (see illustration). Do not nick or caused excessively high operating temperatures. The oil pump
gouge the pistons in the process. should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston crown, an
12 Scrape all traces of carbon from the tops of the pistons. A hand- extreme to be sure, is an indication that abnormal combustion
held wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth can be used once (pre-ignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the edge of the piston
most of the deposits have been scraped away. Do not, under any crown are usually evidence of spark knock (detonation). If any of
circumstances, use a wire brush mounted in a drill motor to the above problems exist, the causes must be corrected or the
remove deposits from the pistons; the piston material is soft and damage will occur again.
will be eroded away by the wire brush. 18 Measure the piston ring-to-groove clearance by laying a new
13 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to remove any carbon piston ring in the ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside
deposits from the ring grooves. If a tool is not available, a piece it (see illustration). Check the clearance at three or four locations
broken off an old ring will do the job. Be very careful to remove around the groove. Be sure to use the correct ring for each
only the carbon deposits. Do not remove any metal and do not nick groove; they are different. If the clearance is greater than the
or gouge the sides of the ring grooves. service limit, new pistons will have to be used when the engine is
14 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the pistons with reassembled.
solvent and dry them thoroughly. Make sure the oil return holes 19 Calculate the piston-to-bore clearance by measuring the bore
below

29.20a Rock piston pin in piston boss to check for wear .

29.19 Measuring piston diameter
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-43

29.23 Checking for play between piston pin and connecting rod
29.20b . . . or check by direct measurement small-end
(see Section 25) and the piston diameter. Make sure that the pistons
and cylinders are correctly matched. Measure the piston across the
Bearing selection
skirt on the thrust faces at a 90°° angle to the piston pin, 11 mm (1/2 Refer to illustration 29.29
inch) up from the bottom of the skirt (see illustration). Subtract the 27 The connecting rod bearing running clearance is controlled in
piston diameter from the bore diameter to obtain the clearance. If it is production by selecting one of five (700/750 models) or three
greater than specified, the cylinders will have to be rebored and new (1100 models) grades of bearing insert. The grades are indicated
oversized pistons and rings installed. by a color-coding marked on the edge of each insert (see
20 Apply clean engine oil to the pin, insert it into the piston and check illustration 28.9). In order, from the thickest to the thinnest, the
for freeplay by rocking the pin back-and-forth (see illustration). If the insert grades for 700/750 models are: Blue, Black, Brown, Green
pin is loose, new pistons and pins must be installed. If the necessary and Yellow and for 1100 models are Brown, Green and Yellow.
measuring equipment is available measure the pin diameter and New bearing inserts are selected as follows using the crankpin and
piston pin bore and check the readings obtained do not exceed the connecting rod size markings.
limits given in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). Replace 28 The standard crankpin journal diameter is divided into size
components that are worn beyond the specified limit. groups to allow for manufacturing tolerances. The size group of
21 If the pistons are to be replaced, ensure the correct size of piston is each crankpin can be determined by the letters (700/750 models:
ordered. Honda produce four oversizes of piston as well as standard A, B or C, 1100 models: A or B) stamped on the edge of each
pistons. The piston oversizes available are: +0.25 mm, +0.50 mm, crank web (see illustration 28.10). Note: Ignore the numbers as
+0.75 mm and +1.0 mm. Note: Oversize pistons have their relevant size these refer to the main bearing journals. Each letter indicates the
stamped on top of the piston crown, eg. a 0.25 mm oversize piston will diameter of each crankpin immediately inboard of that web. If the
be marked 0.25. equipment is available, these marks can be checked by direct
22 Install the rings on the pistons as described in Section 30. measurement.
29 The connecting rods are also divided into size groups to allow
Connecting rods for manufacturing tolerances. The size group is in the form of
23 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other obvious damage numbers (700/750 models: 1, 2 or 3, 1100 models: 1 or 2) (see
Lubricate the piston pin for each rod, install it in its original rod and illustration). Note: Ignore the letter as this indicates the weight
check for play (see illustration). If it wobbles, replace the connecting group of the connecting rod. If the equipment is available, these
rod and/or the pin. If the necessary measuring equipment is available marks can be
measure the pin diameter and connecting rod bore and check the
readings obtained do not exceed the limits given in this Chapter's
Specifications. Replace components that are worn beyond the
specified limit.
24 Refer to Section 27 and examine the connecting rod bearing inserts
If they are scored, badly scuffed or appear to have been seized, new
bearings must be installed. Always replace the bearings in the
connecting rods as a set. If they are badly damaged, check the
corresponding crankpin. Evidence of extreme heat, such as discol-
oration, indicates that lubrication failure has occurred. Be sure to
thoroughly check the oil pump and pressure relief valve as well as all
oil holes and passages before reassembling the engine.
25 Have the rods checked for twist and bending at a dealer service
department or other motorcycle repair shop.
26 If a connecting rod is to replaced, it is essential that the new rod is
of the correct weight group to minimize vibration. The weight is
indicated by a letter (A, B, C, D or E) stamped across the rod and cap
join. This letter together with the connecting rod size number (see Step
29) should be quoted when purchasing new connecting rod(s). Note:
When ordering a new connecting rod also provide the dealer with the
markings for the opposite cylinder's rod on that journal. 29.29 Connecting rod bearing bore size group and weight
marking (arrow)
2-44 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

29.37 Measure the crushed Plastigage to arrive at the connecting

rod bearing oil clearance 29.40 Connecting rod identification markings (arrows)
checked by direct measurement. corresponding crankpin journal is measured and then subtracted from
30 Match the relevant connecting rod code with its crankshaft code the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the connecting rod
and select a new set of bearing inserts using the following table. bearing oil clearance.
36 If the second method is to be used, cut several lengths of the
700/750 models appropriate size Plastigage (they should be slightly shorter than the
Rod mark Crank web mark Insert color width of the crankpin). Place a strand of Plastigage on each (cleaned)
1 A Yellow crankpin journal and fit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies,
1 B Green inserts and bearing caps. Make sure the cap is fitted the correct way
1 C Brown around so the connecting rod and bearing cap weight/size markings
2 A Green are correctly aligned and tighten the bearing cap nuts to the specified
2 B Brown torque while ensuring that the connecting rod does not rotate. Take
2 C Black care not to disturb the Plastigage. Loosen the bearing cap nuts and
3 A Brown remove the connecting rod assemblies, again taking great care not to
3 B Black rotate the crankshaft.
3 C Blue 37 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each crankpin to
the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope to obtain the connecting
1100 models rod bearing oil clearance (see illustration).
Rod mark Crank web mark Insert color 1 38 If the clearance is not within the specified limits, the bearing inserts
A . Yellow 1 B may be the wrong grade (or excessively worn if the original inserts are
Green 2 A Green 2 being re-used). Before deciding that different grade inserts are needed,
B Brown make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped between the bearing inserts
and the connecting rod or bearing cap when the clearance was
measured. If the clearance is excessive, even with new inserts (of the
correct size), the crankpin is worn and the crankshaft should be
Oil clearance check replaced.
Refer to illustration 29.37 39 On completion carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigage
31 Whether new bearing inserts are being fitted or the original ones material from the crankpin and bearing inserts using a fingernail or
are being re-used, the connecting rod bearing oil clearance should be other object which is unlikely to score the inserts.
checked prior to reassembly.
32 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and the bearing locations in Installation
both the connecting rod and bearing cap. Refer to illustration 29.40, 29.41, 29.44 and 29.47
33 Press the bearing inserts into their locations, ensuring that the tab
40 Check that each piston has one new snap-ring fitted to it and insert
on each insert engages in the notch in the connecting rod/bearing cap.
the piston pin from the opposite side. If it is a tight fit, the piston should
Make sure the bearings are fitted in the correct locations and take care
be warmed first. If the original pistons/connecting rods are being
not to touch any insert's bearing surface with your fingers.
installed, use the marks made on disassembly to ensure each piston is
34 There are two possible ways of checking the oil clearance, the first
fitted to its correct connecting rod (see illustration). Note: The front
method is by direct measurement (see Steps 35 and 38) and the
cylinder connecting rods are marked MBO-F or MBI-F on 700/750
second by the use of a product known as Plastigage (see Steps 36 to
models and MB4-F on 1100 models; the rear cylinder rods are similarly
38).
marked, but carry the letter R.
35 If the first method is to be used, fit the bearing cap to the connecting
41 Lubricate the piston pin and connecting rod bores with clean engine
rod, with the bearing inserts in place. Make sure the cap is fitted the
oil and fit each piston to its respective connecting rod making sure that
correct way around so the connecting rod and bearing cap weight/size
the IN mark on the crown of the piston is on the opposite side to the
markings are correctly aligned. Tighten the cap retaining nuts to the
connecting rod oilway on front cylinder pistons, and on the same side
specified torque and measure the internal diameter of each assembled
as the oilway on rear cylinder pistons (see illustration). When the
pair of bearing inserts. If the diameter of each
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-45

29.41 Piston crown IN marking to connecting rod 29.44 Align the bearing insert tab with the cutout (arrow) in the
oilway relationship connecting rod and cap
1 Front cylinder rods 2 Rear cylinder rods

pistons are installed in their bores, the IN marks on their crowns

should be on the carburetor side (toward the inside of the V formed by
the cylinders).
42 Push the piston pin through both piston bosses and the connecting
rod bore. If necessary the pin can be tapped carefully into position,
using a hammer and suitable drift, while supporting the connecting
rod and piston. Secure each piston pin in position with a second new
snap-ring, making sure it is correctly seated in the piston groove.
43 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and the bearing recesses in
both the connecting rod and bearing cap. If new inserts are being
fitted, ensure that all traces of the protective grease are cleaned off
using kerosene (paraffin). Wipe dry the inserts and connecting rods
with a lint-free cloth.
44 Press the bearing inserts into their locations, aligning the oilway in
the insert with the corresponding oilway in the connecting rod. Make
sure the tab on each insert engages in the notch in the connecting rod
or bearing cap (see illustration). Make sure the bearings are fitted in
the correct locations and take care not to touch any insert's bearing
surface with your fingers.
45 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons and piston rings then lay
out each piston/connecting rod assembly in its respective position. 29.47 Piston ring compressor installed
46 Starting with assembly number 1, position the top and second ring
end gaps so they are 120°° apart then position the oil control ring side
rails so that their end gaps are 120°° apart.
47 With the piston rings correctly positioned, clamp them in position
with a piston ring compressor (see illustration). them evenly, in two or three stages, to the specified torque setting. 52
48 Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of its bore, Check that the crankshaft is free to rotate easily, then install the three
taking care not to allow the connecting rod to mark the bore. Make remaining assemblies in the same way.
sure the IN mark on the piston crown is on the intake side of the bore
and push the piston into the position until the piston crown is flush with
the top of the bore.
49 Ensure that the connecting rod bearing insert is still correctly 30 Piston rings - installation
installed. Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, apply
molybdenum disulfide grease to the crankpin and both bearing inserts,
Refer to illustrations 30.3, 30.5, 30.9a, 30.9b and 30.9c
then pull the piston/connecting rod assembly down its bore and onto
the crankpin. 1 Before installing the new piston rings, the ring end gaps must be
50 Fit the bearing cap and insert to the connecting rod. Make sure the checked.
cap is fitted the correct way around so the connecting rod and bearing 2 Lay out the pistons and the new ring sets so the rings will be
cap weight/size markings are correctly aligned (see illustration 29.29). matched with the same piston and cylinder during the end gap
51 Apply a smear of clean engine oil the threads and underside of the measurement procedure and engine assembly.
bearing cap nuts. Fit the nuts to the connecting rod and tighten 3 Insert the top ring into the top of the first cylinder and square it up
with the cylinder walls by pushing it in with the top of the piston. The
ring should be about 25 mm below the top edge of the cylinder. To
measure the end gap, slip a feeler gauge between the ends of the ring
2-46 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

30.3 Position ring squarely in bore when measuring ring end gap 30.5 Enlarging the piston ring end gap
and compare the measurement to the Specifications (see illustration).
4 If the gap is larger or smaller than specified, double check to make
sure that you have the correct rings before proceeding.
5 If the gap is too small, it must be enlarged or the ring ends may
come in contact with each other during engine operation, which can
cause serious damage. The end gap can be increased by filing the
ring ends very carefully with a fine file. When performing this operation,
file only from the outside in (see illustration).
6 Excess end gap is not critical unless it is greater than 1 mm. Again,
double check to make sure you have the correct rings for your engine.
7 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will be installed in the first
cylinder and for each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep the rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
8 Once the ring end gaps have been checked/corrected, the rings can
be installed on the pistons.
9 The oil control ring (lowest on the piston) is installed first. It is

30.9a Install the oil control ring side rails by hand

30.9c Piston ring end gap positions

30.9b Make sure the oil control expander ends don't overlap
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-47

31.2 To measure gear backlash, mesh mainshaft with 31.3 ... and set dial gauge up as shown
countershaft in lower crankcase half ...
composed of three separate components. Slip the expander into Mainshaft
the groove, then install the upper side rail. Do not use a piston Refer to illustrations 31.10, 31.13a, 31.13b, 31.14 and 31.15
ring installation tool on the oil ring side rails as they may be
damaged. Instead, place one end of the side rail into the groove Removal and disassembly
between the expander and the ring land. Hold it firmly in place 5 Lift out the mainshaft.
and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the 6 Carefully remove the gears, washers, snap-rings and bushings from
groove. Next, install the lower side rail in the same manner (see the mainshaft. Note: It is very important that all components be kept in
illustrations). their installed order and relative position to each other. It is very easy to
10 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check mix up transmission components, a mistake which will result in improper
to make sure that both the upper and lower side rails can be functioning of the transmission.
turned smoothly in the ring groove.
11 Install the second (middle) ring next. Note: The second ring Inspection
and top ring are different in profile - don't mix them up. To avoid 7 Clean each part, one at a time, with solvent and dry them
breaking the ring, use a piston ring installation tool and make sure thoroughly. Make sure all the oil holes are not clogged.
that the identification mark (either a T or R) is facing up. Fit the 8 Check the gear teeth, the gear dogs and the shift fork grooves for
ring into the middle groove on the piston. Do not expand the ring cracks and excessive wear. If the gear dogs are rounded off,
any more than is necessary to slide it into place. replace the gears with new ones. Measure the inside diameter of
12 Finally, install the top ring in the same manner. Make sure the each gear and compare the results to the Specifications. If
identifying mark (either a T or R) is facing up. excessive wear has occurred, new gears are required.
13 Repeat the procedure for the remaining pistons and rings. 9 Measure the outer diameter and inner diameter of the gear
bushings, as appropriate, and compare the measurements to the
Specifications. If they are excessively worn they must be replaced.
31 Transmission shafts - removal and installation 10 Measure the diameter of the mainshaft (see illustration). Use
the mainshaft and bushing outside diameter measurements and
Note: When disassembling the transmission shafts, place the parts on a the gear inside diameter measurements to determine the
long rod or thread a wire through them to keep them in order and clearance between the gears and shaft or bushings. If they are
facing the proper direction. excessive, a new mainshaft, bushings, and possibly new gears
1 Separate the crankcase halves as described in Section 24. should be obtained. Also, check the shaft for score marks, cracks
and evidence of seizure.
Backlash check (except 1985 through 1988
700/750 Magna models)
Refer to illustrations 31.2 and 31.3
2 Before removing any transmission components, use a dial
gauge to check the gear backlash between all mating gears. To
do this, remove the mainshaft assembly from the upper crankcase
and lay it in position in the lower crankcase, so it is properly
engaged with the countershaft assembly (see illustration).
3 Backlash measurement is done by setting the dial gauge up so it
just contacts the tooth face on one of the countershaft gears (see
illustration). Then, while holding the mainshaft to keep it from
moving, rotate the countershaft gear back and forth with your
finger while watching the movement of the needle on the gauge.
Jot down the reading.
4 Repeat the procedure on the other countershaft gears that mate
with gears on the mainshaft. Compare the readings with the
Specifications. If any of the gears have excessive backlash, that 31.10 Measure mainshaft diameter at this point (arrows)
gear and the mainshaft gear it mates with are worn and require
replacement.
2-48 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

31.13a Mainshaft component parts (700/750 model

shown, 1100 model similar)

31.13b Assembled mainshaft

11 Check the thrust washers and snap-rings for wear and 31.14 Oil jet location (arrow) in lower crankcase
distortion. Replace any worn or damaged parts with new ones.
12 Spin the mainshaft bearing with your fingers, checking for any
roughness, binding or noise. If any of these signs are found, the
bearing must be replaced. Have it pressed off of the shaft at a upper crankcase (see Section 32). Lay the mainshaft assembly in
dealer or other motorcycle repair or machine shop and have the place. Be sure the center fork is correctly engaged with the proper
new bearing pressed on. gear (see illustration).
16 Reassemble the crankcases as described in Section 24.
Reassembly and installation
13 Reassemble the shaft components in the reverse order of Countershaft
disassembly, using the exploded view as a guide and noting the Refer to illustrations 31.18, 31.20, 31.21, 31.23 and 31.27
following (see illustrations).
a) Lubricate the contact surfaces with molybdenum disulfide grease. Removal and disassembly
b) Make sure the snap-rings are securely seated in their grooves. Note: The helical output gear assembly does not have to be removed
c) When installing the M6 gear bushing, be sure the bushing is from the countershaft in order to remove the countershaft from the
aligned with the hole in the mainshaft. crankcase, but it must be removed if the countershaft is to be replaced
14 Check the oil jet located in the lower crankcase near the left with a new one.
mainshaft bearing surface (see illustration). Be sure it is not 17 Remove the mainshaft if not already done.
clogged. 18 Before the countershaft can be removed from the crankcase,
15 If the shift drum and shift forks were removed, install them in
the
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-49

31.18 Remove C1, C5, C2 and C3 then withdraw countershaft and

31.15 Center shift fork engaged with mainshaft
bearing holder from crankcase

remove the C1, C5, C2 and C3 gears from the countershaft, along
with their spline washers, snap-rings and bushings (see illustration).
19 After the countershaft has been removed from the crankcase, the
remaining gears and related parts can be lifted off.

Inspection
20 Refer to Steps 7 through 12 above, and examine the countershaft
components. Measure the countershaft outside diameter at the C1
and C4 gear positions on 700/750 models and at the C4 gear position
on 1100 models (see illustration).

Reassembly and installation

21 Reassemble the shaft components in the reverse order of
disassembly, using the exploded view as a guide (see illustration).

31.20 Measure countershaft diameter at point C4 and C1 on

700/750 models and at point C4 on 1100 models

31.21 Countershaft component

parts (700/750 model shown,
1100 model similar)
2-50 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission

31.23 The spline collar (arrow) is correctly installed when its tabs
are engaged with the shaft grooves

31.27 Countershaft endfloat measurement

27 Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the bearing

on the first gear side and the spacer (see illustration). Refer to the
Specifications for the correct clearance (endfloat).
28 If the clearance exceeds the limit, disassemble the countershaft
assembly once again and substitute a new spacer for the old one.
Spacers are available in varying thicknesses - see Specifications.
32.2 Shift drum stopper plates Select the spacer that will give the correct clearance and recheck the
endfloat after it has been installed.
22 As the parts are assembled, lubricate the contact surfaces with
molybdenum disulfide grease. Also, make sure the snap-rings are 32 Shift drum and forks - removal, inspection and
securely seated in their grooves. installation
23 With the C4 and C6 gears and related parts assembled on the
countershaft, insert the countershaft through the lower crankcase Note: The crankcase halves must be separated in order to remove the
opening. Then install the remaining gears and parts. Note: When shift drum and forks.
installing the C3 gear bushing, be sure the bushing and shaft holes are
aligned. Also, be sure the spline collar is engaged in the shaft grooves Removal
and that the stopper washer tabs are inserted in the spline collar
Refer to illustrations 32.2 and 32.3
indentations (see illustration).
24 Reassemble the crankcases as described in Section 24. 1 Separate the crankcase halves (see Section 24) and lift the
transmission mainshaft out of the upper case half.
Countershaft endfloat check and spacer selection 2 Remove the two screws and bolt that attach the shift drum bearing
25 Whenever the countershaft or its bearing, the output gearcase or stopper plates to the crankcase and lift the plates off (see illustration).
crankcase are replaced, a check must be made for the correct endfloat 3 Bend the lock washer tab down on the center fork and remove the
on the countershaft. fork bolt (see illustration).
26 Install the countershaft assembly in the crankcase using the original 4 Mark the fork positions Left, Center and Right to ensure proper
spacer between the C1 gear (1 st gear) and case. Attach the output installation. Then slide the fork shaft out the side of the crankcase and
gearcase to the lower crankcase using a new gasket as selected in lift out the forks.
Section 23 in the case of 1982 models. Tighten the output gear 5 Pull out the shift drum.
assembly bolts to the specified torque.
 Chapter 2 Engine, clutch and transmission 2-51

32.3 Center shift fork is retained by bolt and lockwasher; bend 32.8 Measuring shift fork thickness
lockwasher up again onto bolt to secure it
Inspection oil pressure exists). Reinstall the spark plugs, connect the HT leads
and turn the stop switch to RUN.
Refer to illustration 32.8
3 Make sure there is fuel in the tank, then turn the fuel valve to the ON
6 Check the edges of the grooves in the drum for signs of excessive position and operate the choke.
wear. Also, check the shift drum hole and shift fork shaft hole in the 4 Start the engine and allow it to run at a moderately fast idle until it
crankcase for any scoring or scratches. If wear or damage is reaches operating temperature. Warning: If the oil pressure warning
excessive, the drum, shaft and possibly the crankcase half will have to light doesn't go off, or it comes on while the engine is running, stop the
be replaced. engine immediately.
7 Check the ball bearing for smooth operation. If noise or binding is
5 Check carefully for oil and coolant leaks and make sure the
evident or there is any sign of freeplay between its inner and outer
transmission and controls, especially the brakes, function properly
race, the bearing must be replaced with a new one. before road testing the machine. Refer to Section 34 for the
8 Measure the shift fork thickness and compare it to the Specifications recommended break-in procedure.
(see illustration). If it is excessively worn, it should be replaced . 6 Upon completion of the road test, and after the engine has cooled
9 Check the shift forks for distortion and wear, especially at the fork down completely, recheck the valve clearances and check the engine
ends. If they are discolored or severely worn they are probably bent oil and coolant levels (see Chapter 1).
and will cause difficulty in selecting gears and make the gearshift
action heavy; check for trueness by rolling it along a flat surface. If
damage or wear is evident, check the shift fork groove in the
corresponding gear as well. Inspect the guide pins for excessive wear 34 Recommended break-in procedure
and distortion and replace any defective parts with new ones.
10 Measure the outside diameter of the shift fork shaft and the inside 1 Any rebuilt engine needs time to break-in, even if parts have been
diameter of the shift fork hole. If excessive wear has occurred, replace installed in their original locations. For this reason, treat the machine
the parts with new ones. In addition, check the shaft surface for gently for the first few miles to make sure oil has circulated throughout
scoring, scratches or evidence of insufficient lubrication. Measure the the engine and any new parts installed have started to seat.
thickness of the shift fork claws and compare it to the Specifications. 2 Even greater care is necessary if the engine has been rebored or a
new crankshaft has been installed. In the case of a rebore, the engine
Installation will have to be broken in as if the machine were new. This means
11 Apply a thin coat of grease, then install the drum in the case. greater use of the transmission and a restraining hand on the throttle
Lubricate the shift fork holes, hold the shift forks in position and install until at least 500 miles (800 km) have been covered. There's no point
the shaft. in keeping to any set speed limit - the main idea is to keep from lugging
12 Install the bolt in the center fork and tighten it to the proper torque. (labouring) the engine and to gradually increase performance until the
Then bend the lock washer tabs up to secure it. 500 mile (800 km) mark is reached. These recommendations can be
13 Apply a thread locking agent to the bearing stopper plate screws lessened to an extent when only a new crankshaft is installed.
and bolt and install the plates and fasteners. Tighten them to the Experience is the best guide, since it's easy to tell when an engine is
specified torque. running freely. The following recommendations, which Honda provide
for new motorcycles, can be used as a guide.
a) 0 to 600 miles (0 to 1000 km): Keep engine speed below 5,000
rpm. Vary the engine speed and don't use full throttle.
33 Initial start-up after overhaul b) 600 to 1000 miles (1,000 to 1,600 km): Keep engine speed below
7,000 rpm. Rev the engine freely through the gears, but don't use full
1 Make sure the engine oil and coolant levels are correct (see Chapter throttle for prolonged periods.
1), then remove the spark plugs from the engine. Place the engine stop c) After 1000 miles (1,600 km): Full throttle can be used. Don't
switch in the OFF position. exceed maximum recommended engine speed (redline). 3 If a
2 Turn on the ignition switch and crank the engine over with the starter lubrication failure is suspected, stop the engine immediately and try to
until the oil pressure warning light goes off (which indicates that find the cause. If an engine is run without oil, even for a short period of
time, severe damage will occur.
 3-1

Chapter 3 Cooling system

Note:"fn/ess specifically mentioned in this Chapter, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Contents

Sect/on Sect/on
Coolant hoses and pipes - removal and installation...................... General information........................................................................
9 1
Coolant level check and replacement.............................. See Radiator - removal, inspection and installation..............................
Chapter"! 7
Coolant reservoir - removal and installation Radiator cap - check......................................................................
.................................. 3 2
Coolant temperature gauge/display/warning light and sender unit Reservoir tank level sensor - testing ............................... See
- check and replacement................................................... 5 Chapter 8
Cooling fan and thermostatic switch - check and replacement.... Thermostat - removal, testing and installation...............................
4 6
Water pump - check, removal, inspection and installation............
8

Specifications

Coolant
Mixture type............................................................................................. See Chapter 1 *
Capacity................................................................................................... See Chapter 1

Radiator
Cap valve opening (relief) pressure ......................................................... 11 to 15 psi (0.76 to 1.04 Bars)

Thermostat
Opening temperature............................................................................... 80 to 84°C (176 to 183°F)
Fully open ................................................................................................ 95°C (203°F)
Minimum valve lift.................................................................................... 8 mm (0.32 in) @ 95°C (203°F)

Torque settings
Water pump cover bolts (700/750 models)............................................. 7.5 to 10.5 Nm (6 to 8 ft-lbs)

prevent the coolant flowing through the radiator when the engine
1 General information is cold, therefore accelerating the speed at which the engine
reaches normal operating temperature. A thermostatically-
The cooling system uses a water/antifreeze coolant to carry controlled cooling fan is also fitted to aid cooling in extreme
away excess energy in the form of heat. The cylinders are conditions.
surrounded by a water jacket from which the heated coolant is The complete cooling system is partially sealed and
circulated by thermo-siphonic action in conjunction with a water pressurized, the pressure being controlled by a valve contained in
pump, driven off the oil pump. The hot coolant passes upwards to the spring-loaded radiator cap. By pressurizing the coolant the
the thermostat and through to the radiator (mounted on the boiling point is raised, preventing premature boiling in adverse
frame's front downtubes to take maximum advantage of the conditions. The overflow pipe from the system is connected to a
passing airflow). The coolant then flows across the radiator core, reservoir tank into which excess coolant is expelled under
where it is cooled by the passing air, down to the water pump (via pressure. The discharged coolant automatically returns to the
the left frame tube) and back up to the engine where the cycle is radiator when the engine cools. Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to
repeated. A thermostat is fitted in the system to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the motorcycle.
Rinse off any spills immediately
3-2 Chapter 3 Cooling system

with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave

antifreeze lying around in an open container or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell and may drink it.
Check with the local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze.
Many communities will have collection centers which will see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.
Warning: Do not remove the pressure cap from the radiator when the
engine is hot. Scalding hot coolant and steam may be blown out under
pressure, which could cause serious injury. When the engine has
cooled, place a thick rag, like a towel, over the radiator cap; slowly
rotate the cap counterclockwise (anticlockwise) to the first stop. This
procedure allows any residual pressure to escape. When the steam has
stopped escaping, press down on the cap while turning it counter-
clockwise (anticlockwise) and remove it.

2 Radiator cap - check

If problems such as overheating or loss of coolant occur, check

the entire system as described in Chapter 1. The radiator cap opening
(relief) pressure should be checked by a Honda dealer or service
station equipped with the special tester required to do the job. If the 3.5 Reservoir tank mounting bolt (A), coolant
cap is defective, replace it with a new one. hose (B) and overflow/breather hose
(C)
20 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Top up the
3 Coolant reservoir - removal and installation reservoir with new coolant (see Chapter 1). When reconnecting the battery
leads, remember to connect the negative lead last.

700/750 Sabre models 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models

Refer to illustration 3.5 Refer to illustration 3.24
1 Remove the seat. 21 Remove the right side cover (see Chapter 6).
2 Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 6).
22 Release the single screw retaining the fusebox and loosen the electrical
3 On 1982/83 750 models, trace the blue/yellow and green/black wires
components mounting plate bolt situated directly behind the fusebox.
from the level sensor at the base of the reservoir tank to the connector,
23 Disconnect the overflow/breather hose from the top surface of the tank.
then disconnect it.
24 Remove the single tank mounting bolt and lift the electrical components
4 Disconnect the overflow/breather and coolant hoses from the top of
plate upwards so that the tank can be maneuvered out from behind the
the tank.
5 Remove the single mounting bolt and then lift the tank out of position frame (see illustration). Once free, disconnect the coolant hose and allow
(see illustration). The tank is a tight fit between the frame and the tool the coolant to drain.
box but can be removed by lifting up and tilting the top away from the 25 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that the peg
motorcycle. Invert the tank to drain the coolant. on the front of the tank should be engaged with the frame grommet. Top
6 If the level sensor is suspected of being faulty, test it as described in up the reservoir with new coolant (see Chapter 1).
Chapter 8.
7 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Top up the 1100 models
reservoir with new coolant (see Chapter 1). 26 Remove the right side cover (see Chapter 6).
27 Disconnect the overflow/breather hose and the coolant hose from the
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models top of the tank.
28 Remove the single tank mounting bolt and maneuver it out of the frame
8 Remove the seat and right side cover. sufficiently to gain access to the coolant hose connection. On Sabre
9 Remove the battery and starter relay, with the bracket, as described models disconnect the hose from the tank's top surface and invert the tank
in Chapter 8. to drain the coolant. On Magnas, pull off the coolant hose from the base of
10 Free the overflow/breather hose from any retainers. Also disconnect the tank and allow the coolant to drain.
the coolant hose from the top of the tank. 29 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Top up the
11 The tank can now be lifted out and inverted to drain the coolant. reservoir with new coolant (see Chapter 1).
12 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Top up the
reservoir with new coolant (see Chapter 1).
4 Cooling fan and thermostatic switch - check and
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models replacement
13 Remove the right side cover (see Chapter 6).
14 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
15 Remove the rear fender/mudguard. Check
16 Remove the battery (see Chapter 8). Refer to illustration 4.7
17 Disconnect its wiring connector and remove the regulator/rectifier 1 If the engine is overheating and the cooling fan isn't coming on, first
unit from the base of the battery holder. check the cooling fan switch fuse. If the fuse is blown, check the fan circuit
18 Pull the overflow/breather hose off the neck of the reservoir tank for a short to ground/earth (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this
and disconnect the coolant hose either from its in-line union or directly manual).
from the base of the tank; allow the coolant to drain. 2 If the fuse is sound, disconnect the wire from the fan switch which
19 Remove the single tank retaining bolt (accessed from the battery
holder) and lower the tank free.
 Chapter 3 Cooling system 3-3

3.24 Reservoir tank mounting bolt on 1987 and 4.7 Cooling fan thermostatic switch test set-up
1988 700/750 Magnas
ohmmeter or multimeter will be required. Remove the switch as
described in Steps 14 to 16.
7 Fill the container with coolant of the specified type and strength and
suspend the switch on some wire so that just the sensing portion and
threads are submerged. Connect one probe of the meter to the switch
terminal and the other to the body of the switch. Suspend the
thermometer so that its bulb is close to the switch (see illustration).
Note: No components should be allowed to touch the container.
8 Set the meter to the ohms x 1 scale and start to heat the coolant,
stirring it gently. No continuity (infinite resistance) should be shown
until the coolant is between 98 to 110°C (208 to 215°F). Warning: This
must be done very carefully to avoid the risk of personal injury. With the
coolant at this temperature the meter should show continuity (0 ohms),
indicating that the switch has closed. Carry on heating the coolant until
it reaches 110°C (215°F) then turn the stove off. Note the resistance
reading of the switch as the temperature falls. When the coolant cools
to 98°C (208°F) there should no longer be continuity between the
meter probes. If this is not the case the fan switch is defective and
must be replaced.

4.13 Install cooling fan motor with TOP marking upwards

Replacement
Refer to illustrations 4.13 and 4.15

is fitted to the left side of the radiator (remove any covers for access). Fan motor
Using a jumper wire short the two wire connector terminals together 9 Remove the radiator as described in Section 7.
and turn the ignition key switch ON; the fan should come on. If it does 10 Remove the right and left radiator cover bolts and nuts and lift off
the fan switch is defective and must be replaced, although a more the covers and radiator grille, unless already done at radiator removal
comprehensive test is described below in Step 5 or Steps 6 to 8 stage.
depending on the model. 11 Remove the three (1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models) or four
3 If the fan does not come on the fault lies in either the cooling fan (all other models) bolts/nuts that retain the fan and shroud to the
motor or relevant wiring. The wiring can be tested as described in radiator and lift them off.
Chapter 8. 12 Remove the nut from the fan center and separate it from the motor,
4 To test the cooling fan motor, trace the wiring from the fan motor to then remove the three screws or nuts from the shroud and withdraw
its connector block. Separate the connector and using a 12 volt battery the fan motor.
and two jumper wires, connect the battery across the terminals of the 13 Installation is the reverse of removal, while noting the following (see
cooling fan block connector. Once connected the fan should operate. If illustration).
this is not the case the fan motor is faulty and must be replaced. a) Apply thread locking compound to the fan motor threads before
5 On 700/750 Sabre models and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna installing the nut.
models, Honda advise that the switch is tested by removing the b) Install the fan motor and fan in the shroud so that the TOP marking
pressure cap (when cold) and placing a thermometer in the top of the on the motor end is upwards.
radiator. Run the engine and check the temperature at which the c) Install the radiator as described in Section 7.
cooling fan cuts in and out; it should cut in between 88 to 92°C (191 to
197°F) and cut out between 83 to 87°C (182 to 188°F). Warning: This Thermostatic switch
must be done very carefully to avoid the risk of personal injury. Warning: The engine must be completely cool before this procedure.
6 On 1985-on 700/750 Magnas and all 1100 models to fully test the fan 14 The thermostatic switch, or fan switch, is located on the rear left
switch, a heatproof container, a small gas-powered camping stove, a side of the radiator. On some models a shield or rubber cover will
thermometer capable of reading up to 110°C (230°F) and an obscure the switch; remove for access.
3-4 Chapter 3 Cooling system

4.15 Cooling fan thermostatic switch Is located at rear 5.3 Testing the temperature gauge sender unit
left corner of radiator resistance (see text for applicable
models)
15 Disconnect the wiring from the switch (see illustration). 4 Run the engine and check the meter resistance reading at the
16 Have ready a suitable plug so that excessive coolant loss is temperatures specified. Warning: This must be done very carefully to
prevented, then unscrew the switch and recover the O-ring. Swiftly avoid the risk of personal injury.
plug the radiator opening.
17 Fit a new O-ring to the switch and apply a smear of sealant to the 700/750 models
switch threads. Temperature Resistance
18 Remove the plug and quickly install the new switch, tightening it to 60°C(140°F) 104 ohms
the specified torque setting. 85°C(176°F) 44 ohms
19 Connect the wiring to the switch and install the access covers 110°C(230°F) 20 ohms
(where applicable). 120°C(248°F) 16 ohms
20 Check the coolant level and if necessary, top up as described in
Chapter 1. 1100 models
Temperature Resistance
60°C(140°F) 104 ohms
5 Coolant temperature gauge/display/warning light and 85°C(176°F) 44 ohms
sender unit - check and replacement 5 If the resistance reading varies wildly from that stated, the sender
unit must be replaced. If the gauge/display appears to be faulty,
Check remove the instrument cluster as described in Chapter 8, and check
the relevant wiring connectors. If all appears to be well, the gauge is'
Refer to illustration 5.3
defective and must be replaced.
1 The circuit consists of the sender unit mounted in the thermostat
housing cover and the gauge assembly (1982 through 1986 700/750 Sender unit check -1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna
Magnas), LED segments (all Sabres and 1100 Magnas) or coolant models and all 1100 Sabre models
overheat warning light (1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas) mounted in
6 Remove the temperature sender unit as described below in Steps! 9
the instrument panel. If the system malfunctions check first that the
to 11. The sender unit is tested in the same way as the cooling fan
battery is fully charged and that all fuses are in good condition.
thermostatic switch, referring to Steps 6 to 8 of Section 4, noting that
2 To test the circuit, first disconnect the green/blue wire from the
the container should be filled with oil rather than coolant and a
temperature sender unit. Removal of the right side air chamber cover is
thermometer capable of reading up to 120°C (248°F) will be required.
necessary on Magna models to access the thermostat housing. Turn
7 Heat the oil gently, stirring it slowly to keep a uniform temperature
the ignition key switch ON and ground (earth) the sender unit wire on
throughout, while noting the resistance readings of the sender unit. A
the engine. When the wire is grounded (earthed) the needle, segments
serviceable sender unit should give the following approximate
or bulb should swing/illuminate immediately over to the H on the
resistance readings at the specified temperatures.
gauge. Caution: Do not ground/earth the wire for any longer than is
necessary to take the reading, or the gauge may be damaged. If the 700/750 models
gauge operates as described above, the sender unit is defective and
Temperature Resistance
must be replaced, although a more comprehensive test is described
below. If the gauge doesn't respond, of if it does not move at all, the 50°C(122°F) 154 ohms
fault lies in the wiring or the gauge/display/bulb. 80°C(176°F) 52 ohms
100°C(212°F) 27 ohms
Sender unit check -1982 through 1984 700/750 120°C(248°F) 16 ohms
Magna models, all 700/750 Sabre models and all
1100 Magna models 1100 models
3 Remove the radiator cap (when cold) and insert a thermometer in the
Temperature Resistance
top of the radiator. On Magna models remove the right side air 60°C(140°F) 104 ohms
chamber cover. Disconnect the wire from the sender unit and connect 85°C(176°F) 44 ohms
the probes of an ohmmeter between the sender unit tip and a good 110°C(230°F) 20 ohms
ground (earth) on the engine (see illustration). 120°C(248°F) 16 ohms
 Chapter 3 Cooling system 3-5

5.10 Thermostat is housed in right side air 5.11 Temperature gauge sender unit
chamber on Magna models location
Temperature gauge/display/warning light bulb
16 See Chapter 8.

6 Thermostat - removal, testing and installation

1 The thermostat is automatic in operation and should give many

years of service without requiring attention. In the event of a
failure, the valve will probably jam open, in which case the engine
will take much longer than normal to warm up. Conversely, if the
valve jams shut, the coolant will be unable to circulate and the
engine will overheat. Neither condition is acceptable, and the fault
must be investigated promptly.

Removal
Refer to illustration 6.7
2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
3 Remove the coolant drain plug from the lower left front tube
6.7 Lift the thermostat out of its housing and drain about a quart of coolant from the system.
1982 750 Sabre models
8 If the resistance reading varies wildly from that stated the sender 4 Note the positions of the upper radiator hose clamps. If neither
unit must be replaced. If the gauge appears to be faulty, remove the one is accessible to be loosened, the right air cleaner element and
instrument cluster as described in Chapter 8, and check the relevant air cleaner case must be removed. If the hose clamp is
wiring connectors. If all appears to be well, the gauge/display/warning accessible, loosen it (preferably, it should be the one that
light bulb is defective and must be replaced. connects directly to the water pipe).
5 Remove the screw that retains the water pipe to the cylinder
Replacement head.
Refer to illustrations 5.10 and 5.11 6 Disconnect the wire from the coolant temperature sender
unit.
Temperature sender unit 7 Remove the thermostat cover bolts and lift off the cover. Lift out
Warning: The engine must be completely cool before this procedure. the thermostat (see illustration).
9 Remove the fuel tank for improved access (see Chapter 4).
10 On the 1982 750 Sabre model, remove the right side air filter, and 1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabre models
on all later 700/750 Sabre models, remove the front side cover on the 8 On later 700/750 models, disconnect the battery (negative lead
right side. On Magna models remove the right side air chamber cover first) and pull off the right side electrical components plate cover.
(see illustration). On all models disconnect the wiring connector from 9 Disconnect the wire from the coolant temperature sender
the switch. unit.
11 Unscrew the sender unit from the thermostat housing cover (see 10 Loosen the hose clamp which retains the radiator hose to the
illustration). Plug the opening to minimize coolant loss. thermostat and remove the bolts which retain the thermostat
12 Apply a smear of sealant to the switch threads. cover. Lift the cover and twist the hose off. Lift out the thermostat.
13 Remove the plug and quickly install the new sender unit, tightening
it to the specified torque setting. All 1100 Sabre models
14 Connect the wiring connector to the sender unit and install the fuel 11 Remove the two screws from the front of the thermostat cover
tank as described in Chapter 4. to release the water pipe connection. Loosen the clamp of the
15 Check the coolant level and, if necessary, top up as described in hose at the bottom of the thermostat housing.
Chapter 1. 12 Disconnect the wire from the coolant temperature sender
unit.
13 Remove the single bolt which retains the thermostat housing
to the engine and remove the housing.
14 Remove the two bolts to release the housing cover and lift out
the thermostat.
3-6 Chapter 3 Cooling system

All Magna models

15 Remove the right side air chamber cover. Disconnect the wire from
the coolant temperature sender unit. Remove the bolt that attaches the
thermostat housing to the air chamber.
16 Loosen the hose clamps on both sides of the thermostat housing.
17 The thermostat housing can now be separated from the hoses. To
reach the thermostat, remove the bolts that retain the housing cover to
the housing and then lift out the thermostat.

Testing
18 Initially examine the thermostat visually. If it is open at room
temperature it should be replaced with a new one. To test it, suspend it
by a piece of wire in a pan of cold water. Do not let it touch the bottom
of the pan. Place a thermometer in the pan and slowly heat the water.
Note at what temperature the thermostat begins to open and compare
it to the Specifications. If the thermostat does not open at the correct
temperature replace it with a new one.
19 In the event of thermostat failure, as an emergency measure only, it
can be removed and the machine used without it. Note: Take care
when starting the engine from cold as it will take much longer than
7.9a Radiator top and side mountings (early model shown)
usual to warm up. Ensure that a new unit is installed as soon as
possible.

Installation
20 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure with the
following notes.
a) Be sure the thermostat is reinstalled in its original position with the
spring down.
b) Always install a new 0-ring on the thermostat housing cover
whenever the cover has been removed.
c) On 1982 750 Sabre models and all 1100 Sabre models, install a
new O-ring at the junction of the water pipe and thermostat cover.
d) When installing the thermostat housing mounting bolt, ensure that
the ground (earth) wire is secured with it.
e) Following installation, refill and bleed the system (see Chapter 1).
f) On 1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabre models, remember to
reconnect the battery (negative lead last).

7 Radiator - removal, inspection and installation

7.9b Radiator top mounting is formed by single throughbolt on

Removal later models (arrow)
Refer to illustration 7.9a and 7.9b
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
2 Remove the coolant drain plug from the lower left frame tube and
drain the coolant from the radiator. Note: 7986 through 1988 models Inspection
have a tap on the radiator outlet stub which allows the radiator to be 11 Bugs and dirt can be cleaned from the radiator by using a soft
removed without draining the cooling system (see Chapter 1). brush. Also use compressed air applied from the rear side of the
3 Disconnect the reservoir tank tube located at the radiator filler neck. radiator, but be careful not to bend the cooling fins as this is done.
4 Disconnect the wiring connectors leading to the fan motor and 12 If care is exercised, bent fins can be straightened using two
thermostatic switch, and detach the wiring from any clamps or ties. screwdrivers. If the fins are badly damaged or are damaged over a
5 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, detach its wires and large area, the radiator should be replaced with a new one.
remove the horn mounting bolt from the left frame tube. 13 If the radiator is in need of welding due to large leaks, it should be
6 Remove their retaining screws/nuts and release the radiator side done by a professional radiator shop or dealer, as special welding
covers. On 700/750 Sabre models, remove the radiator lower hose techniques are required.
cover. 14 Check the radiator mounting rubbers for signs of damage or
7 On Magna models, also remove the right air chamber cover to gain deterioration and replace if necessary.
access to the radiator top hose clamp.
8 Loosen both the upper and lower radiator hose clamps. Installation
9 Remove the radiator mounting bolts/nuts and pull it free from the
15 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting the following.
upper and lower hoses. All models have a mounting bolt on each side
which attaches the radiator to the frame downtubes, and have either a) Ensure that all mounting dampers are returned to their original
two nuts or bolts on the top surface, or a single throughbolt and nut locations.
(see illustrations). b) Make sure that the fan wiring is correctly routed, in no danger of
being caught by the fan and is retained by any relevant clips.
10 Refer to Section 4 for details of fan and fan motor removal.
c) Ensure the coolant hoses are securely retained by their clamps -do
not overtighten the clamps or the stub may distort.
 Chapter 3 Cooling system 3-7

8.5 Coolant drain plug in frame section (right

arrow), and water pump drain plug (left
8.2 Water pump drainage hole
arrow)
(arrow)
d) "~0n completion refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1
and check that there are no leaks from the radiator hoses.

8 Water pump - check, removal, inspection and

installation

Check
Refer to illustration 8.2
1 Remove the left rear crankcase cover. The cover is retained by a
single bolt on all 700/750 Sabre models and 1982 through 1984
700/750 Magna models; note the long collar inside the cover. On all
1100 models and 1985-on 700/750 Magna models the cover is
retained by three bolts. Visually check the area around the water
pump for signs of leakage.
2 To prevent leakage of water or oil from the cooling system to the
lubrication system and vice versa, two seals are fitted on the pump
shaft. On the underside of the pump body there is also a drainage 8.6 Front cylinder bank drain plugs (arrows)
hole (see illustration). If either seal fails this hole should allow the
coolant or oil to escape and prevent the oil and coolant mixing.
3 The seal on the water pump side is of the mechanical type which
bears on the rear face of the impeller. The second seal, which is
mounted behind the mechanical seal is of the normal feathered lip
type. However, neither seal is available as a separate item as the
pump is a sealed unit. Therefore, if on inspection the drainage hole
shows signs of leakage, the pump must be removed and replaced.

Removal
Refer to illustrations 8.5, 8.6 and 8.10
4 Remove the left rear crankcase cover (see Step 1).
5 Remove the coolant drain plug from the lower left frame tube and
drain the coolant (see illustration).
6 Also remove the drain bolt at the water pump and the two drain
plugs from the front cylinders (see illustration).
7 Disengage the wiring from any clamps on the water pump cover
bolts and position it out of the way.
8 Disconnect the water hose from the water pump cover.
9 Remove the remaining water pump cover bolts and lift off the cover.
10 Remove the inlet water pipe mounting bolt located on the front of
the engine (see illustration). It may be necessary on certain models to 8.10 Inlet water pipe clamp bolt location (arrow)
remove the left front engine mount bolt for clearance.
11 Loosen the hose clamps that secure the water hose between the
water pump housing and the water pipe. Inspection
12 Pull the water pump out from the crankcase and then separate the Refer to illustration 8.14
water pipe from the pump. 13 Wiggle the water pump impeller back-and-forth and in-and-out. If
there is excessive movement the pump must be replaced.
3-8 Chapter 3 Cooling system

8.14 Check the water pump seal for 9.7 Coolant inlet and 9.10 Connecting pipe O-ring
damage and replace the O-ring connecting pipe locations
whenever locations
the pump is removed (arrows)
14 Check the bearing and oil seal for damage (see illustration). Make
sure the bearing spins easily without noise. The water pump cannot be
rebuilt and, if faulty, must be replaced as a unit.

Installation
15 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure with the
following notes.
a) Always replace the O-rings on the water pump, at the top of the
water pipe and in the water pump cover. The water pump O-ring
should be lubricated with engine oil before installing it.
b) When installing the water pump into the crankcase, be sure the
water pump shaft meshes with the oil pump shaft, which drives the
pump.
c) Following installation, refill and bleed the cooling system (see
Chapter 1).

9 Coolant hoses and pipes - removal and installation 9.13 Coolant crossover pipe locations

Note: Before removing a hose or pipe, drain the coolant as described in a union on the crankcase, where it is routed to cylinders No. 1 and 2; a
Chapter 1. Total draining of the system is not always necessary, link pipe connects the first union to a second on the right side of the
particularly if the hose is at the top of the system, but it does provide a crankcase, which supplies cylinders No. 3 and 4 (see illustration).
good opportunity to drain, flush and refill the system with fresh coolant. 8 Remove the pipe mounting bolt on the front of the engine, noting
that the front engine mounting bolt on the left side may have to be
Flexible hoses removed on some models for access. -»
1 Use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps, then slide them back 9 Loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the pipe and work the pipe
along the hose and clear of the stub. off the water pump hose and out of the crankcase union.
2 Caution: The radiator stubs are fragile. Do not use excessive force when 10 Remove the two bolts that attach each union to the crankcase.
attempting to remove the hoses. If a hose proves stubborn, release it Once removed, the connecting pipe can be separated from the unions
by rotating it on its stub before working it off. If all else fails, cut the and the O-rings replaced (see illustration).
hose with a sharp knife then slit it at each stub so that it can be peeled 11 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that all
off in two pieces. While this is expensive it is preferable to buying a O-rings must be replaced with new ones.
new radiator. 12 Refill and bleed the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 To install, slide the clips onto the hose and then work it on to its
respective union. Note: Do not use a lubricant of any kind. If necessary Coolant crossover pipes
the hose can be softened by soaking it in very hot water before Refer to illustration 9.13
installing, although care is obviously necessary to prevent the risk of
13 The coolant crossover pipes carry the coolant from the cylinder
personal injury while doing this.
heads to the thermostat housing (see illustration). To gain access to
4 Rotate the hose on its stubs to settle it in position before sliding the
them, first remove the carburetors as described in Chapter 4.
clips into place and tightening them securely.
14 Loosen the hose clamp securing the coolant hose to the bottom of
5 The short radiator top hose on Sabre models is linked to the
the thermostat housing.
thermostat by a solid pipe. Release the two screws to release the pipe
flange from the thermostat housing. Use a new O-ring on installation. 15 Remove the coolant pipe clamp bolts and lift off the clamps.
6 Refill and bleeding the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 16 Pull the pipes out of the cylinder head; if used with care, a
screwdriver can be used to pry them out.
Metal coolant inlet pipe 17 If necessary, separate the pipes from the connecting hoses.
18 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that new
Refer to illustrations 9.7 and 9.10
sealing rings should be used on all joints.
7 The curved inlet pipe delivers coolant from the water pump to the 19 Refill and bleed the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
 4-1

Chapter 4
Fuel and exhaust systems
Note: Unless specifically mentioned in this Chapter, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Contents

Section components check...................................................................

Air filter element - servicing............................................. See 16
Chapter 1 Evaporative emission control system (1984-on California
Air filter housing - removal and Installation.................................... models) -
14 general information...................................................................
Carburetor overhaul - general information..................................... 17
6 Exhaust system - check.................................................. See
Carburetors - disassembly, cleaning and inspection..................... Chapter 1
8 Exhaust system - removal and installation.....................................
Carburetors - reassembly and float height check.......................... 19
9
Carburetors - removal and installation...........................................
7
Carburetors - separation and joining .............................................
10
Carburetors - synchronization......................................... See
Chapter 1
Choke cable - removal, installation and freeplay check................
12
Crankcase breather - general information and
system
 Section
Fuel pump - check, removal and installation .................................
13
Fuel pump relay - check and replacement...................... See
Chapter 8
Fuel sender - removal and installation ...........................................
15
Fuel sender test............................................................... See
Chapter 8
Fuel system - filter cleaning or replacement................... See
Chapter 1
Fuel tank - cleaning and repair.......................................................
3
Fuel tank - removal and installation...............................................
2
Fuel valve - removal and installation..............................................
4
General information and precautions.............................................
1
Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information ...................
5
Idle speed - check and adjustment................................. See
Chapter 1
Secondary air supply system (1986-on 700/750
California models) - general information...................................
18
Throttle cables - removal and installation......................................
11
Throttle operation/freeplay - check and adjustment....... See
Chapter 1
4-2 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Specifications

Fuel grade.......................................................................................... Unleaded or leaded (according to local regulations),

minimum 91 octane (research method)
Fuel tank capacity
1982 through 1985 700/750 Sabre models
Total ................................................................................................. 18 lit (4.8 US gal, 4.0 Imp gal)
Reserve.............................................................................................. 4 lit (1.1 US gal, 0.9 Imp gal)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models
Total (including auxiliary tank)............................................................ 14 lit (3.7 US gal, 3.1 Imp gal)
Reserve.............................................................................................. 4 lit (1.1 US gal, 0.9 Imp gal)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models
Total................................................................................................... 13.5 lit (3.6 US gal, 3.0 Imp gal)
Reserve .............................................................................................. 3.5 lit (0.9 US gal, 0.8 Imp gal)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
Total................................................................................................... 13 lit (3.4 US gal, 2.9 Imp gal)
Reserve .............................................................................................. 2.8 lit (0.7 US gal, 0.6 Imp gal)
1100 Sabre models
Total................................................................................................... 22 lit (5.8 US gal, 4.8 Imp gal)
Reserve .............................................................................................. 4 lit (1.1 US gal, 0.9 Imp gal)
1100 Magna models
Total (including auxiliary tank)............................................................ 17 lit (4.5 US gal, 3.7 Imp gal)
Reserve .............................................................................................. 3 lit (0.8 US gal, 0.7 Imp gal)

Carburetor jet sizes

Main jet Front cylinders Rear cylinders
1982 750 Sabre model............................................................................ 132 132
1983 750 Sabre model............................................................................ 135 138
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models .......................................................... 122 130
UK VF750S model................................................................................... 132 132
1982 750 Magna model........................................................................... 128 128
1983 750 Magna model........................................................................... 128 132
1984 through 1986 700 Magna models................................................... 95 98
1987 700 Magna California model........................................................... 105 105
1987 700 Magna model except California............................................... 108 105
1988 750 Magna model........................................................................... 110 108
UK VF750C-H model............................................................................... 110 108
UK VF750C-J model................................................................................ 112 110
1100 Sabre models.................................................................................. 120 128
1983 1100 Magna models....................................................................... 140 140
1984and 1985 1100 Magna models....................................................... 118 120
1986 1100 Magna models....................................................................... 115 118
Pilot jet (slow jet)
1982 750 Sabre model............................................................................ 38
1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabre models............................................. 40
UK VF750S model................................................................................... Not available
1983 750 Magna model........................................................................... 40
1982, and 1984 through 1986 700/750 Magna models .......................... 38
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models.................................................. 35
UK VF750 C-H model.............................................................................. 35
UK VF750 C-J model............................................................................... 38
1100 models............................................................................................ 38
Pilot screw — initial setting (turns out)
1982 750 models..................................................................................... 2 3/4
1983 750 Sabre models........................................................................... 2 1/2
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models .......................................................... 3
UK VF750S-C model............................................................................... 2 1/2
1983 through 1986 700/750 Magna models ........................................... 2 1/2
1987 700 Magna models......................................................................... 1 7/8 (2 1/8 California models)
1988 750 Magna models......................................................................... 1 3/4 (2 1/8 California models)
UK VF750C-H model............................................................................... 2 1/2
UK VF750C-J model................................................................................ 2 1/4
1100 Sabre models.................................................................................. 3 3/8 (2 California models)
1100 Magna
1983 models....................................................................................... 3
1984 and 1985 models....................................................................... 2 3/4 (3 California models)
1986 models....................................................................................... 2 1/2
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-3

Carburetor adjustments
Float height (all models)
1982 750 Sabre model....................................................................... 8.3 mm (0.327 in)
1983 750 Sabre model....................................................................... 7.0 mm (0.276 in)
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models..................................................... 7.5 mm (0.300 in)
UK VF750S model.............................................................................. 6.8 mm (0.268 in)
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 7.2 mm (0.283 in)
1985 700 Magna model..................................................................... 7.0 mm (0.276 in)
1986 700 Magna model..................................................................... 7.5 mm (0.300 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 9.8 mm (0.386 in)
UK VF750C-H model.......................................................................... 7.5 mm (0.300 in)
UK VF750C-J model.......................................................................... 8.5 mm (0.335 in)
1983 1100 Magna model................................................................... 6.0 mm (0.236 in)
1984 and 1985 1100 models.............................................................. 7.5 mm (0.300 in)
1986 1100 Magna model................................................................... 8.0 mm (0.315 in)
Idle speed................................................................................................ See Chapter 1

Torque settings Nm ft-ibs

Exhaust system — 1982 through 1986 700/750 and all 1100 models
Muffler mounting nuts........................................................................ 18 to 28 13 to 20
Front pipe-to-cylinder head nuts ....................................................... 8 to 14 6 to 10
Exhaust chamber mounting bolts...................................................... 8 to 12 6 to 9
Rear headpipe-to-exhaust chamber clamp bolts.............................. 18 to 28 13 to 20
Exhaust system — 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
Muffler mounting nuts........................................................................ 24 to 30 17 to 22
Front pipe-to-cylinder head nuts ....................................................... 8 to 12 6 to 9
Rear headpipe-to-exhaust chamber clamp bolts.............................. 18 to 28 13 to 20
Always perform service procedures in a well-ventilated area to
1 General information and precautions prevent a build-up of fumes.
Never work in a building containing a gas appliance with a pilot
light, or any other form of naked flame. Ensure that there are no naked
General information light bulbs or any sources of flame or sparks nearby.
On 700/750 Sabre models fuel is fed to the carburetors in a Do not smoke (or allow anyone else to smoke) while in the vicinity
conventional gravity-feed system from the fuel tank. The 1100 Sabre of gasoline (petrol) or of components containing it. Remember the
model has a pump-fed fuel supply. possible presence of vapor from these sources and move well clear
Early 700/750 and all 1100 Magnas are fitted with an auxiliary fuel before smoking.
tank under the seat in addition to the main fuel tank, which is of Check all electrical equipment belonging to the house, garage or
relatively small capacity. Fuel is pumped from the auxiliary tank to the workshop where work is being undertaken (see the Safety first! section
carburetors. The auxiliary tank was discontinued on the 1985-on of this manual). Remember that certain electrical appliances such as
700/750 Magnas, although the fuel system remained pump-fed through drill, cutters etc create sparks in the normal course of operation and
1986. must not be used near gasoline (petrol) or any component containing
Keihin CV carburetors are fitted to all models in the range. The it. Again, remember the possible presence of fumes before using
front two carburetors are downdraft, while the rear carburetors are electrical equipment.
sidedraft. The carburetors should not be interchanged from their Always mop up any spilt fuel and safely dispose of the shop towel
original positions. The butterfly-type choke valves are cable-operated or rag used.
by a lever on the left side of the handlebars. Any stored fuel that is drained off during servicing work, must be
Air is draw to the carburetors from a moulded plastic air filter kept in sealed containers that are suitable for holding gasoline (petrol),
housing containing an oiled foam element on Sabre models and a and clearly marked as such; the containers themselves should be kept
pleated paper type element on Magna models. in a safe place. Note that this last point applies equally to the fuel tank,
The exhaust system is a four-into-two design on all models except if it is removed from the machine; also remember to keep its cap
the 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas, where it is a four-into-four design. closed at all times.
Many of the fuel system service procedures are considered Note that the fuel system consists of the fuel tank, with its cap
routine maintenance items and for that reason are included in Chapter and related vent hoses, the fuel pump and filters. On US California
1. models, this includes the Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP)
System components.
Precautions Read the Safety first! section of this manual carefully before
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra starting work.
precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or Owners of machines used in the US, particularly California,
allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work should note that their machines must comply at all times with Federal
in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or State legislation governing the permissible levels of noise and of
or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off pollutants such as unburnt hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide etc that
immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work can be emitted by those machines. All vehicles offered for sale must
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher comply with legislation in force at the date of manufacture and must not
suitable for a class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand. subsequently be altered in any way which will affect their emission of
noise or of pollutants.
4-4 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

2.2 Fuel valve connections on 700/750 Sabre models 2.3 Disconnect the fuel sender wiring at the connector

1 Vent hose 3 Fuel hose

2 Vacuum hose
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models and all 1100
Magna models
In practice, this means that adjustments may not be made to Refer to illustration 2.8
any part of the fuel, ignition or exhaust systems by anyone who is 6 Remove the seat (see Chapter 6).
not authorized or mechanically qualified to do so, or who does not 7 Prior to removing the fuel tank, it must be drained. Remove the
have the tools, equipment and data necessary to properly carry out right (700/750 models) or left (1100 model) side cover and switch
the task. Also if any part of these systems is to be replaced it must the fuel valve to the OFF position. Have a rag ready to catch any
be replaced with only genuine Honda components or by spilt fuel and disconnect the fuel pump supply hose from the valve
components which are approved under the relevant legislation. or tank stub. Attach a length of hose of the proper diameter to the
The machine must never be used with any part of these systems valve and place the other end of the hose in a clean container,
removed, modified or damaged. such as a multi-gallon gas (petrol) can. Turn the valve to the ON
position and drain enough fuel from the auxiliary tank to empty the
main fuel tank. Note: Raise the tank up on its support rod as
2 Fuel tank - removal and installation described below to drain as much fuel as possible. Turn the valve OFF
and reconnect the fuel pump supply hose when draining is
Warning: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 before starting complete.
work. 8 Remove the two front mounting bolts, then hinge the tank up on
its support rod. With a rag handy to absorb any remaining fuel,
Main fuel tank disconnect the fuel and breather hoses from the rear underside of
the fuel tank. On 1984-on California models, disconnect the
Sabre models evaporative emission control system hose from the tank (see
Refer to illustrations 2.2 and 2.3 illustration).
1 Remove the side covers and seat (see Chapter 6). 9 Disconnect the support rod hinge at the frame or tank end, and
2 Turn the fuel valve to the OFF position. Have a rag handy to lower the tank onto the frame. Remove the throughbolt, collar and
catch any spilled fuel and disconnect the fuel hose from the valve. nut at the rear mounting and lift the main tank off the motorcycle.
On 700/750 models also disconnect the vacuum and vent hoses 10 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that
from the valve (see illustration). all mounting rubbers and collars are correctly positioned, and that
3 On 700/750 models, remove the fuel tank mounting bolt and the tank does not trap any cables, wiring or hoses. Check that
collar located at the rear of the tank, followed on 1983-on models there are no fuel leaks when the fuel valve is turned ON.
by the mounting bolt and collar on each side at the tank front
mounting. Locate the fuel sender wiring connector and disconnect 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models
it (see illustration). Lift the rear of the tank and pull it rearwards 11 Remove the seat (see Chapter 6).
off the motorcycle (on 1982 models this is necessary to disengage 12 Switch the fuel valve to OFF and have a rag handy to catch
its front mounting rubbers). On 1984-on California models, any drops of fuel as the hose is disconnected from it.
disconnect the evaporative emission control system hose from the 13 On 1985 and 1986 700 models, remove the two mounting bolts
tank. at the front of the tank and the single bolt at the rear, noting their
4 On 1100 models, remove the two front mounting bolts and the collars. Raise the tank sufficiently to disconnect the sender unit
single rear mounting bolt, noting their collars. Locate the fuel wiring at the two-pin connector, then lift it off the motorcycle. On
sender wiring connector and disconnect it, then lift the tank off the California models, disconnect the evaporative emission control
motorcycle. On California models disconnect the evaporative system hose from the tank.
emission control system hose from the tank. 14 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 models remove the single
5 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that all mounting bolt at the front and rear of the tank, noting their collars.
mounting rubbers and collars are correctly positioned, and that the Lift the tank off the motorcycle. On California models, disconnect
tank does not trap any cables, wiring or hoses. Check that there the evaporative emission control system hose from the tank.
are no fuel leaks when the fuel valve is turned ON. 15 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure
that all
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-5

2.8 Main and auxiliary fuel tanks - 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas shown (1100 Magnas similar)

mounting rubbers and collars are correctly positioned, and that the natural gas-type appliance is located, because the pilot light could
tank does not trap any cables, wiring or hoses. Check that there are cause an explosion.
no fuel leaks when the fuel valve is turned ON.

Auxiliary fuel tank - 1982 through 1984 700/750 4 Fuel valve - removal and installation
Magna models and all 1100 Magna models
Warning: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 before starting
16 Remove the seat and both side covers (see Chapter 6). work.
17 Disconnect the battery (negative lead first) and remove it.
18 Fully drain the main and auxiliary fuel tanks, then remove the main
fuel tank as described above. 700/750 Sabre models
19 Disconnect the fuel level sender wiring from the sender in the tank Fuel valve
top surface.
Refer to illustration 4.10
20 Remove the regulator/rectifier unit and its wiring tie from the side of
1 Before the valve can be removed, all fuel must be drained from the
the tank on 700/750 models (see Chapter 8).
tank.
21 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
2 Switch the fuel valve to the OFF position. Have a rag ready to catch
22 Remove the rear fender sections.
any spilt fuel and disconnect the fuel, vent and vacuum hoses from the
23 Have a rag ready to catch any drops of fuel and disconnect the
diaphragm valve stubs.
auxiliary fuel tank hose from the fuel pump.
3 Attach a length of hose of the proper diameter to the fuel outlet stub
24 Remove the auxiliary fuel tank mounting bolt and withdraw the tank
(larger diameter of the three) and place the other end of the hose in a
rearwards from the motorcycle.
clean container, such as a multi-gallon gas (petrol) can. Turn the valve
25 The 1100 Magna has a drain bolt fitted in the base of the tank,
to the RES position and drain all fuel. Turn the valve OFF when
which provides a useful means of draining any sludge or dirt which has
draining is complete and disconnect the drain hose.
settled in the bottom of the tank. If it is ever removed, always fit a new
4 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
sealing washer on installation.
5 Unscrew the fuel valve's gland nut and remove the valve and internal
26 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the
gauze filter from the tank. Recover the O-ring.
tank mounting bolt rubber grommet and collar are correctly positioned,
6 Taking suitable precautions against fire, rinse the filter gauze in fresh
and that the tank front edge engages the lower rubber mounting.
fuel to clean it.
Check that the tank does not trap any cables, wiring or hoses and that
7 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting that a new
there are no fuel leaks when the fuel valve is turned ON.
O-ring should be fitted at the valve-to-tank joint.

Diaphragm unit
3 Fuel tank - cleaning and repair 8 The diaphragm valve housing forms part of the fuel valve body. The
diaphragm can be inspected by removing the four screws and
1 All repairs to the fuel tank should be carried out by a professional withdrawing the cover. If operating correctly it should only allow fuel to
who has experience in this critical and potentially dangerous work. flow when the engine is running.
Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel system, explosive fumes 9 To check its operation, disconnect the vacuum hose from the no. 1
can remain and ignite during repair of the tank. cylinder intake manifold and the fuel outlet pipe (to the carburetors)
2 If the fuel tank is removed from the motorcycle, it should not be from the lower stub on the valve. Install a substitute length of hose on
placed in an area where sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes the outlet stub union and place its other end in a jar.
coming out of the tank. Be especially careful inside garages where a 10 With the fuel valve in the ON position there should be no fuel flow
4-6 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4.10 Checking the fuel valve diaphragm unit on 700/750 Sabres - 4.33 Fuel valve diaphragm unit location on air chamber -
suck on the vacuum hose then press your thumb 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas
tightly over the hose end

through the diaphragm valve apart from a very small amount which will
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
be present in the pipe. Suck gently on the other end of the vacuum Fuel valve
hose to simulate engine vacuum, then quickly cover the end with your 26 Before the valve can be removed, all fuel must be drained from the
thumb - fuel should flow from the outlet pipe if the valve is operating tank.
correctly and stop when the vacuum is released (see illustration). 27 Switch the fuel valve to the OFF position. Have a rag ready to
11 If fuel is not flowing from the valve with vacuum applied, first make catch any spilt fuel and disconnect the fuel hose from the valve stub.
sure that the vacuum line is not clogged, then remove the assembly 28 Attach a length of hose of the proper diameter to the valve and
from the tank and make sure that the filter is not clogged. place the other end of the hose in a clean container, such as a multi-
12 If the valve fails to operate as described it must be replaced gallon gas (petrol) can. Turn the valve to the RES position and drain
although check with your dealer if the diaphragm and cover assembly all fuel. Turn the valve OFF when draining is complete and disconnect
can be purchased separately. thi drain hose.
29 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models 30 Unscrew the fuel valve's gland nut and remove the valve and
13 Before the valve can be removed, all fuel must be drained from the internal gauze filter from the tank. Recover the O-ring.
main and auxiliary tanks. 31 Taking suitable precautions against fire, rinse the filter gauze in
14 Remove the right side cover and switch the fuel valve to the OFF fresh fuel to clean it.
position. Have a rag ready to catch any spilt fuel and disconnect the 32 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting that a
fuel outlet hose from the valve stub. new O-ring should be fitted at the valve-to-tank joint.
15 Attach a length of hose of the proper diameter to the valve and
place the other end of the hose in a clean container, such as a multi- Diaphragm unit
gallon gas (petrol) can. Turn the valve to the RES position and drain all Refer to illustration 4.33
fuel. Turn the valve OFF when draining is complete and disconnect the 33 The fuel valve diaphragm is retained to the air chamber left by two
drain hose. screws; remove the air chamber left side cover for access (see
16 Disconnect the inlet hose from the other union on the fuel valve and illustration). If operating correctly it should only allow fuel to flow
remove the two screws to detach the valve from its mounting bracket. when the engine is running.
17 No replacement parts are available for the fuel valve; if it is faulty is 34 To check its operation, disconnect the vacuum hose from the no, 2
must be replaced as a complete unit. cylinder intake manifold and the fuel outlet pipe (to the carburetore]
18 An in-line fuel filter is fitted to these models (see Chapter 1). from the front stub on the valve. Install a substitute length of hose on
the outlet stub union and place its other end in a jar.
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models 35 With the fuel valve in the ON position there should be no fuel flow
19 Before the valve can be removed, all fuel must be drained from the through the diaphragm valve. Suck gently on the other end of the
tank. vacuum hose to simulate engine vacuum, then quickly cover the end
20 Switch the fuel valve to the OFF position. Have a rag ready to catch with your thumb - fuel should flow from the outlet stub if the valve is
any spilt fuel and disconnect the fuel hose from the valve stub. operating correctly and stop when the vacuum is released.
21 Attach a length of hose of the proper diameter to the valve and 36 If fuel is not flowing from the valve with vacuum applied, first make
place the other end of the hose in a clean container, such as a multi- sure that the vacuum line is not clogged, then remove the fuel valve
gallon gas (petrol) can. Turn the valve to the RES position and drain all from the tank and make sure that the filter is not clogged.
fuel. Turn the valve OFF when draining is complete and disconnect the 37 If the valve fails to operate as described it must be replaced
drain hose. individual parts are not available.
22 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
23 Unscrew the fuel valve's gland nut and remove the valve from the 1100 Sabre models
tank. Recover the O-ring. 38 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
24 Installation is a reverse of removal, noting that a new O-ring should 39 Turn the fuel valve to the RES position and drain the fuel via the
be fitted at the valve-to-tank joint. outlet pipe into a container marked as being suitable for the storage
25 An in-line fuel filter is fitted to these models (see Chapter 1). of gasoline (petrol).
40 Remove its two retaining screws and remove the fuel valve from
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-7

equipped with an exhaust gas analyzer. They will be able to properly

adjust the idle fuel/air mixture to achieve a smooth idle and restore low
speed performance.
4 If the motorcycle is operated continuously at high altitudes (above
2000 meters, 6,500 feet) alteration of the pilot screw setting will be
required - refer to a Honda dealer for details.

6 Carburetor overhaul - general information

1 Poor engine performance, hesitation, hard starting, stalling, flooding

and backfiring are all signs that major carburetor maintenance may be
required.
2 Keep in mind that many so-called carburetor problems are really not
carburetor problems at all, but mechanical problems within the engine
or ignition system malfunctions. Try to establish for certain that the
carburetors are in need of maintenance before beginning a major
overhaul.
3 Check the fuel filter, the fuel lines, the tank cap vent (except
5.1 Metal limiter caps (arrow) seal the pilot screws in California models), the intake manifold hose clamps, the vacuum
certain markets hoses, the air filter element, the cylinder compression, the spark plugs
and carburetor synchronization before assuming that a carburetor
overhaul is required.
4 Most carburetor problems are caused by dirt particles, varnish and
the rear of the tank. Recover the valve gasket.
other deposits which build up in and block the fuel and air passages.
41 Installation is a reverse of removal, noting that a new gasket
Also, in time, gaskets and O-rings shrink or deteriorate and cause fuel
should be fitted at the valve-to-tank joint. and air leaks which lead to poor performance.
42 An in-line fuel filter is fitted to this model (see Chapter 1). 5 When the carburetor is overhauled, it is generally disassembled
completely and the parts are cleaned thoroughly with a carburetor
1100 Magna models cleaning solvent and dried with filtered, unlubricated compressed air.
43 Before the valve can be removed, all fuel must be drained from the The fuel and air passages are also blown through with compressed air
tank. to force out any dirt that may have been loosened but not removed by
44 Remove the left side cover and switch the fuel valve to the OFF the solvent. Once the cleaning process is complete, the carburetor is
position. reassembled using new gaskets and O-rings.
45 Have a rag ready to catch any spilt fuel and disconnect the fuel 6 Before disassembling the carburetors, make sure you have a
outlet hose from its tank stub. Attach a length hose of the proper carburetor rebuild kit (which will include all necessary O-rings and
diameter to the stub and place the other end of the hose in a clean other parts), some carburetor cleaner, a supply of rags, some means of
container, such as a multi-gallon gas (petrol) can. Turn the valve to the blowing out the carburetor passages and a clean place to work. It is
RES position and drain all fuel from the auxiliary tank. Turn the valve recommended that only one carburetor be overhauled at a time to
OFF and reconnect the outlet hose when draining is complete. avoid mixing up parts.
Complete draining can be achieved by removing the drain bolt from
the base of the tank.
46 Remove the two screws to free the fuel valve and its gasket from 7 Carburetors - removal and installation
the fuel tank.
47 Installation is a reverse of removal, noting that a new gasket should
Warning: Refer fo the precautions given in Section 1 before starting
be fitted at the valve-to-tank joint and a new sealing washer fitted to
work. Disconnect the battery negative lead.
the tank drain bolt if removed.
48 An in-line fuel filter is fitted to this model (see Chapter 1).
Removal
Sabre models
5 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information 1 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
2 Remove the air filter housing (see Section 14).
Refer to illustration 5.1 3 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from its stub on the air
chamber.
1 Due to the increased emphasis on controlling motorcycle exhaust
4 On the 1982 750 model, remove the right ignition coil mounting bolts
emissions, certain governmental regulations have been formulated
so that the coil can be maneuvered to one side for access to the air
which directly affect the carburetion of this machine. In order to comply
chamber screws. Also remove the bolt which attaches the water pipe to
with the regulations, the carburetors on many models have a metal
the air chamber.
limiter cap stuck onto the end of the pilot screw (which controls the idle
5 On 1983 through 1985 700/750 models, remove both front side
fuel/air mixture) on each carburetor, so they can't be tampered with
covers and remove the ignition coil mounting bracket, complete with
(see illustration). These should only be removed in the event of a
coils from the left side (right side on California models).
complete carburetor overhaul, and even then the screws should be
6 Remove the bolt that attaches the thermostat to the air chamber (it
returned to their original settings. If a new pilot screw is fitted, set it to
also secures the ground/earth cable).
the basic setting given in the Specifications section of this chapter and
have its setting checked with the use of an exhaust gas analyzer; this 7 Remove the air chamber cover screws and slide the chamber out of
position.
is the only accurate way to adjust the idle fuel/air mixture and be sure
8 On 1982 750 Sabre models remove the radiator side mounting bolts.
the machine doesn't exceed the emissions regulations.
2 Refer to Sections 8 and 9 for pilot screw removal and installation. 9 Disengage the choke cable outer from its retainer clamp and then
3 If the engine runs extremely rough at idle or continually stalls, and if disengage the end of the cable from the lever.
a carburetor overhaul does not cure the problem, take the motorcycle 10 Loosen the throttle cable locknuts then free each outer cable from
to a Honda dealer service department or other repair shop
4-8 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

its mounting bracket. Detach the inner cables from the throttle pulley. 33 Remove the air chamber side covers from both sides of the
11 Unbend the retainers that secure the front two spark plug wires and motorcycle. On the right side remove the bolt which retains the
any wiring to the air chamber heat shield. thermostat housing to the air chamber, noting the ground (earth) wire.
12 Label and then disconnect the fuel and emission hoses from the On the left side, remove the cover over the electrical multi-pin
carburetors. On 1984-on California models, it may be necessary to connectors and disconnect them.
disconnect the purge control valve from the frame to permit carburetor 34 Remove the radiator (see Chapter 3).
removal. On 1100 models, disconnect the air vent control valve hoses 35 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the rear of the air
from the valve. If the valve hoses are disconnected, label them chamber.
carefully as a guide to reinstallation. 36 Remove its retaining screws and withdraw the air chamber top
13 Loosen all hose clamps that secure the carburetor-to-cylinder head cover.
boots. 37 Disengage the choke cable outer from its retainer clamp and then
14 Using a long screwdriver, carefully pry the carburetors out of their disengage the end of the cable from the lever.
connecting boots, then carefully remove the carburetor and air 38 Loosen the throttle cable locknuts then free each outer cable from
chamber assembly through the left side of the motorcycle. Note: its mounting bracket. Detach the inner cables from the throttle pulley.
Additional clearance is gained by removing the carburetor boots from 39 On all California models, label and disconnect the purge control
the cylinder ports. valve from the left side of the motorcycle, then on 1986 models
15 With the carburetors removed, place a suitable container below the disconnect the air injection control valve and air vent control valve. On
carburetor float chambers then loosen the drain screws and drain all all models, disconnect the fuel supply hose and all emission hoses
the fuel from the carburetors. Once all the fuel has been drained, from the carburetors.
tighten all the drain screws securely. 40 Loosen all hose clamps that secure the carburetor-to-cylinder head
boots.
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models 41 Using a long screwdriver, carefully pry the carburetors out of their
16 Remove the main fuel tank (see Section 2). Note: If the tank is only connecting boots, then carefully remove the carburetor and air
half full it can be trigged up on its support rod after the tank front chamber assembly from the left side of the motorcycle. Note:
mounting bolts have been removed - this will save having to drain the Additional clearance is gained by removing the carburetor boots from
tank of fuel. the cylinder ports.
17 Remove both the right and left side air chamber covers. 42 With the carburetors removed, place a suitable container below the
18 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from its stub on the air carburetor float chambers then loosen the drain screws and drain all
chamber. the fuel from the carburetors. Once all the fuel has been drained,
19 Remove the air filter housing (see Section 14). tighten all the drain screws securely.
20 Remove its retaining screws and withdraw the air chamber top
cover.
21 Remove the radiator (see Chapter 3). 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
22 Remove the bolt that attaches the thermostat housing to the air 43 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
chamber; this bolt also secures the ground (earth) wire. Disconnect the 44 Remove the air filter housing (see Section 14). On the right side,
coolant temperature sender unit wire. Remove the thermostat housing remove the bolt which retains the thermostat housing to the air
and detach its hose from the crossover pipes. chamber, noting the ground (earth) wire and remove the screws which
23 Disengage the choke cable outer from its retainer clamp and then secure the side air chamber to the main chamber. On the left side
disengage the end of the cable from the lever. label and disconnect the hoses from the air injection control valve,
24 Loosen the throttle cable locknuts then free each outer cable from then remove the valve and its air chamber and detach the side air
its mounting bracket. Detach the inner cables from the throttle pulley. chamber from the main chamber.
25 Unbend the retainers that secure the front two spark plug wires to 45 Remove the air chamber top cover screws and withdraw the cover.
the air chamber heat shield. 46 Disengage the choke cable outer from its retainer clamp and then
26 On early 1982 models, prior to serial number CM015298 (identified disengage the end of the cable from the lever.
by all-metal air chamber covers), the carburetor assembly is removed 47 Loosen the throttle cable locknuts then free each outer cable from
from the right side. On models later than this serial number (identified its mounting bracket. Detach the inner cables from the throttle pulley.
by partly rubber air chamber covers) the carburetors are removed from 48 Disconnect the vacuum hose and fuel tank hose from the
the left side. On the earlier models, remove the coolant crossover automatic fuel valve on the left side of the air chamber. Label and
pipes (see Chapter 3). disconnect all emission system hoses from the carburetors. Label its
27 Label and then disconnect the fuel and emission hoses from the hoses, then disconnect and remove the air vent control valve.
carburetors. On 1984-on California models, it may be necessary to 49 Loosen all hose clamps that secure the carburetor-to-cylinder head
disconnect the purge control valve from the frame to permit carburetor boots.
removal from the left side of the motorcycle. If the valve hoses are 50 Using a long screwdriver, carefully pry the carburetors out of their
disconnected, label them carefully as a guide to reinstallation. connecting boots, then carefully remove the carburetor and air
28 Loosen the carburetor boot clamps and withdraw the carburetors chamber assembly from the left side of the motorcycle. Note:
from the boots. A long screwdriver can be used to pry them out. Additional clearance is gained by removing the carburetor boots from
Remove the boots from the cylinder ports. This is made easier by the cylinder ports.
removing the clamps from the boots first. 51 With the carburetors removed, place a suitable container below the
29 Lift out the carburetor assembly. Note: If additional clearance is carburetor float chambers then loosen the drain screws and drain all
necessary, loosen the engine mount bolts and move the engine on its the fuel from the carburetors. Once all the fuel has been drained,
mounts. tighten all the drain screws securely.
30 With the carburetors removed, place a suitable container below the
carburetor float chambers then loosen the drain screws and drain all
1100 Magna model
the fuel from the carburetors. Once all the fuel has been drained,
tighten all the drain screws securely. 52 Remove the main fuel tank (see Section 2). Note: If the tank is
only half full it can be trigged up on its support rod after the tank front
mounting bolts have been removed - this will save having to drain the
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models tank of fuel.
31 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2). 53 Remove the air filter (see Chapter 1).
32 Remove the air filter housing (see Section 14).
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-9

8.2a The vacuum chamber cover is under light pressure 8.2b Remove the choke/throttle cable bracket (arrow)
from the spring first on no.1 carburetor
54 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from its stub on the
air chamber. 8 Carburetors - disassembly, cleaning and inspection
55 Remove the screws retaining the air chamber side covers,
followed by those retaining the air chamber top cover. Withdraw Warning: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 before
the covers from the motorcycle. proceeding.
56 On the right side, remove the bolt which retains the thermostat
housing to the air chamber, noting the ground (earth) wire. Disassembly
57 Label and disconnect the emission system hoses from the Refer to illustrations 8.2a, 8.2b, 8.3a, 8.3b, 8.5a, 8.5b, 8.6a, 8.6b, 8.7, 8.8,
carburetors and on 1986 models disconnect the hoses from the air
8.9a, 8.9b and 8.11
vent control valve on the left side; detach the valve from its
mounting. 1 Remove the carburetors from the machine as described in the
58 Disengage the choke cable outer from its retainer clamp and previous Section. Remove the heat shield (where fitted) from the front
then disengage the end of the cable from the lever. of the carburetor assembly. Note: There is no need to separate the
59 Loosen the throttle cable locknuts then free each outer cable carburetors from each other or from the air chamber unless absolutely
from its mounting bracket. Detach the inner cables from the necessary; each carburetor can be dismantled sufficiently for all normal
throttle pulley. cleaning and adjustments while in place on the mounting brackets.
60 Loosen all hose clamps that secure the carburetor-to-cylinder Dismantle the carburetors separately to avoid interchanging parts. Note
head boots. that it is necessary to separate the carburetors to remove the choke
61 Using a long screwdriver, carefully pry the carburetors out of valves.
their connecting boots, then carefully remove the carburetor and 2 Remove the four screws that retain the vacuum chamber cover
air chamber assembly from the left side of the motorcycle. Note: and lift it off (see illustration). If working on the no. 1 carburetor,
Additional clearance is gained by removing the carburetor boots from remove the choke and throttle cable bracket prior to removing the
the cylinder ports and also by loosening the engine mount bolts and vacuum chamber cover (see illustration).
moving the engine on its mounts. 3 Withdraw the spring and lift out the throttle piston/diaphragm
62 With the carburetors removed, place a suitable container below assembly (see illustration). Note that the no. 1 and 3 carburetors
the carburetor float chambers then loosen the drain screws and (rear cylinders) use shorter springs and thinner jet needles than
drain all the fuel from the carburetors. Once all the fuel has been
drained, tighten all the drain screws securely.

Installation - all models

63 Installation is basically the reverse of the removal procedure,
with the following notes.
a) Clearance is tight when installing the carburetors, so it may be
easier to install the boots on the cylinder ports with the clamps
removed. The clamps can then be slipped over the boots prior to
connecting the carburetors to them. Be sure the clamps are
tightened securely to prevent possible air leaks.
b) On California models, ensure that the purge control valve, air
injection control valve and air vent control valve hoses are all installed
on their original unions - refer to the hose routing label under either
side cover or on the rear fender for information. c) Don't omit to refit the
ground (earth) wire when reconnecting the thermostat to the air
chamber.
d) Reconnect the battery, negative lead first.
e) Following installation, adjust the choke cable freeplay (Section 12),
throttle freeplay, idle speed and carburetor synchronization (Chapter 8.3a Lifting the throttle piston/diaphragm out of the carburetor
1).
the no. 2
4-10 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

8.3b The front cylinder carburetors have longer springs

than the rear 8.5a Pull the fuel hoses off their unions on the base
of the carburetors
and 4 carburetors (front cylinders) (see illustration). The needle holder, spring and jet needle can now be removed from the
4 Insert an 8 mm socket, attached to a ratchet wrench, into the throttle valve.
throttle piston, depress the needle holder and turn it 60° to release it. 5 Turn the carburetor over and remove first the fuel hoses and then
the float chamber (see illustrations). It is attached to the carburetor
body with four screws.
6 Use a needle-nose pliers to withdraw the float pin, then lift out the
float and float valve (see illustrations).
7 Unscrew the starter jet (press fit on later models), main jet, needle jet
holder and pilot jet (see illustration).
8 Remove the float valve seat and washer (see illustration). Certain
models also have a gauze filter attached to the valve seat.
9 If pilot screw removal is required the metal limiter caps must be
extracted (see Section 5). Center-punch the pilot screw cap to provide
a starting point for the drill bit. Next, use a 4 mm drill bit to drill through
the pilot screw plug (see illustrations). Note: Be very careful not to
drill into the pilot screw underneath. Force a self-tapping screw into the
drilled plug and use a screwdriver to turn it until the cap begins rotating
with the screw. Grasp the head of the screw with pliers and pull it out.
10 Screw the pilot screw in until it seats lightly, counting the number of
turns necessary to achieve this, then remove the screw along with its
spring, flat washer and O-ring. If the screw is bent or damaged in any
way, all the pilot screws must be replaced as a set.
11 If the carburetors have been separated, the choke valves can be
removed from the bodies. Disconnect the linkage hook from the
8.5b Remove the four screws to detach the float chamber groove in the valve end, unscrew the valve nut and remove the choke
valve and spring from the carburetor (see illustration).

8.6a Use needle-nose pliers to extract the float pin ... 8.6b ... and lift oft the float and float valve
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-11

8.7 Location of carburetor jets 8.8 Float and valve components - valve seat, washer and filter
(arrows) can be unscrewed from carburetor body
1 Starter jet 3 Main jet
2 Pilot jet 4 Needle jet holder
12 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models,
each carburetor body has an air cut-off valve on the side of its throttle
bore. Remove the two screws to release the cover and withdraw the
spring, O-ring and valve. Inspect all components for damage or
deterioration and replace the cut-off valve assembly if necessary.

Cleaning
Caution: Use only a petroleum based solvent for carburetor cleaning.
Don't use caustic cleaners.
13 Submerge the metal components in the solvent for approximately
thirty minutes (or longer, if the directions recommend it).
14 After the carburetor has soaked long enough for the cleaner to
loosen and dissolve most of the varnish and other deposits, use a
brush to remove the stubborn deposits. Rinse it again, then dry it with
compressed air. Blow out all of the fuel and air passages in the main
and upper body. Caution: Never clean the jets or passages with a
piece of wire or a drill bit, as they will be enlarged, causing the fuel and air
metering rates to be upset. 8.9a Pilot screw metal limiter caps can be drilled ...
Inspection
15 Check the operation of the choke plunger. If it doesn't move 16 Check the tapered portion of the pilot screw for wear or damage.
smoothly, replace it, along with the return spring. Inspect the needle Replace the pilot screw if necessary.
on the end of the choke plunger and replace the plunger if it's worn or 17 Check the carburetor body, float chamber and vacuum chamber
bent.

8.9b ... and a self-tapping screw used to extract them 8.11 With the choke valve nut completely unscrewed, the choke
valve can be pulled up and disengaged from its operating hook
4-12 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

9.1 Install the choke valve and its spring in the carburetor bore 9.7 Assemble the float valve seat, washer and filter and install
and secure with the nut them in the carburetor body
cover for cracks, distorted sealing surfaces and other damage. If any 7 Install the float valve seat, washer and filter (see illustration). Hook
defects are found, replace the faulty component, although replacement the needle valve over the float, then install the float and secure it with
of the entire carburetor will probably be necessary (check with your the pivot pin.
parts supplier for the availability of separate components). 8 To check the float height, hold the carburetor so the float hangs
18 Check the diaphragm for splits, holes and general deterioration. down, then tilt it back until the valve needle is just seated, but not so
Holding it up to a light will help to reveal problems of this nature. far that the needle's spring-loaded tip is compressed. Measure the
19 Insert the throttle piston in the carburetor body and check that it distance between the gasket face and the bottom of the float with a
moves up-and-down smoothly. Check the surface of the piston for gauge or an accurate ruler (see illustration). The correct setting
wear. If it's worn excessively or doesn't move smoothly in the bore, should be as given in the Specifications Section. On early models with
replace the carburetor. brass floats, adjustment of the float height can be made by very
20 Check the jet needle for straightness by rolling it on a flat surface carefully bending the tang which bears on the needle valve tip. On
(such as a piece of glass). Replace it if it's bent or if the tip is worn. later models with plastic floats, the float height is not adjustable; if it is
21 Check the tip of the fuel inlet valve needle. If it has grooves or incorrect the float must be replaced. Repeat the procedure for all
scratches in it, it must be replaced. Push in on the rod in the other end carburetors.
of the needle, then release it - if it doesn't spring back, replace the 9 With the float height checked, install a new seal in the float chamber
valve needle. If the needle valve seat is damaged the carburettor groove and install the chamber on the carburetor (see illustration).
assembly must be replaced; it is not possible to replace the seat 10 Fit the washer to the jet needle and insert the needle into the
individually. throttle valve piston. Insert the spring and the needle holder into the
22 Check the float chamber gasket and replace it if it's damaged. center of the piston and turn it 60° in the opposite direction of removal
23 Operate the throttle shaft to make sure the throttle butterfly valve using an 8 mm box wrench.
opens and closes smoothly. If it doesn't, replace the carburetor. 11 Insert the throttle piston/diaphragm assembly into the carburetor
24 Check the floats for damage. This will usually be apparent by the body and lightly push it down, ensuring the needle is correctly aligned
presence of fuel inside one of the floats. If the floats are damaged, they with the needle jet. Press the diaphragm outer edge into its groove,
must be replaced. ensuring the diaphragm tongue is correctly seated in the cutout on the
carburetor (see illustration). Check the diaphragm is not creased,
and that the piston moves smoothly up and down the bore. To prevent
9 Carburetors - reassembly and float height check the diaphragm from being displaced when the cover is fitted, push it
up the bore with a finger passed through the venturi.
Note: When reassembling the carburetors, be sure to use the new Citings, 12 Insert the spring and fit the vacuum chamber cover to the
gaskets and other parts supplied in the rebuild kit. Do not overtighten carburetor, noting that the longer springs are fitted to the front cylinder
the carburetor jets and screws as they are easily damaged. Refer to carburetors (see illustration 8.3b).
illustrations 9.1, 9.7, 9.8, 9.9 and 9.11 13 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 models, if it was removed, install the
1 Install the choke valve in its bore, followed by its spring and nut (see air cut-off valve, spring and O-ring. Refit the cover and secure with the
illustration). Tighten the nut securely and reconnect the operating link two screws.
hook in the valve groove. 14 If the carburetors were separated, refer to Section 10 and join
2 Install the pilot screw (if removed) along with its spring, washer and them, then refit the assembly to the motorcycle (see Section 7).
O-ring, turning it in until it seats lightly. Now, turn the screw out the
number of turns previously recorded. Where applicable, drive new 10 Carburetors - separation and joining
metal limiter caps into the pilot screw bores. If a new pilot screw has
been fitted, Honda advise that the screws in the other three carburetors
Warning: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 before
be replaced also, and that having been set to the standard number of
proceeding
turns out (see Specifications), adjustment of their settings be carried
out by a dealer service department before new limiter caps are
installed.
Separation
3 Screw the needle jet into position in the carburetor. Refer to illustrations 10.1, 10.6a, 10.6b, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9 and 10.11 1
4 Screw the main jet into the end of the needle jet. The carburetors do not need to be separated for normal overhaul. If
you need to separate them (to replace a carburetor body, for
5 Screw the pilot jet into position.
6 If the starter jet was removed, screw or press it into the body (as
applicable).
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems
4-13

9.8 Measuring the float height

9.9 Use a new seal when installing the
float chambers 9.11 Ensure diaphragm tab, vacuum tube
and cover protrusion align

10.1 Carburetor installation details - typical

4-14 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

10.6a The breather baffle plate is secured by a single screw 10.6b Air chamber-to-carburetor screws - there are eight in total
example), refer to the following procedure (see illustration).
2 Remove the carburetors from the machine as described in
Section 7. Mark the body of each carburetor with its cylinder
number to ensure that it is positioned correctly on reassembly.
3 Remove all fuel lines from the carburetor assembly, having taken
note of their original positions.
4 Remove the heat shield (where fitted) from the front of the
carburetor assembly.
5 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models it is advisable to
remove the fuel valve diaphragm unit from the air chamber side to
prevent damage to it.
6 Remove the breather baffle plate (where fitted) from the center of
the air chamber, then remove the screws that attach the air
chamber (see illustrations). Lift the air chamber from the
assembly.
7 Remove the choke rods from the carburetors by removing the
choke rod lever nuts and lifting off the rods with the levers attached
(see illustration).
8 Horizontally separate first the number 3 carburetor and then the
number 4 carburetor from their corresponding pair, taking care not
to damage the air and fuel joint pipes. As they are separated, the 10.7 Choke rod lever nut locations (arrows)
coil springs between the throttle shafts will fall out. The
synchronization adjusting screw springs may also drop out (see
illustration). If they don't, find them and install them as shown in
the illustration so they

10.8 When separating the carburetors be careful not to loose the 10.9 Make note of the fuel and air joint positions as a
throttle shaft spring (1) and synchronizing screw springs (2) guide to reassembly
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-15

10.11 Throttle link must be detached before nos. 1 and 2 10.15a Installed position of the throttle shaft coil springs (arrow)
carburetors can be separated
aren't lost (see illustration 10.15a).
9 Withdraw the air and fuel joint pipes. They are simply a press fit in
the carburetors (see illustration).
10 On 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models, remove the screw
which retains carburetors no. 3 and no. 4 together and separate them
noting the fuel joint pipe between them. On all other models, simply
separate the carburetors and retrieve the fuel joint between them.
11 Disconnect the throttle link from the number 1 and 2 carburetors by
removing the cotter pins (see illustration).
12 On 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models, remove the screw
which retains carburetors no. 1 and no. 2 together and separate them
noting the fuel joint pipe between them. On all other models, simply
separate the carburetors and retrieve the fuel joint between them.
13 With the carburetor separated, the choke valves can be removed
and inspected. Disconnect the linkage hook from the groove in the
valve end, unscrew the valve nut and remove the choke valve and
spring from the carburetor.

Joining
10.15b Ensure all velocity stacks (1), dowels (2) and O-rings (3) are Refer to illustrations 10.15a, 10.15b, 10.17a, 10.17b and 10.18
installed in the carburetors before installing the air chamber 14 Prior to reconnection of the carburetors, inspect the air and fuel joint
pipes for cracks, blockage or damage and clean them thoroughly with
solvent. Install new O-rings on the air and fuel joint pipes and apply oil
to the O-rings prior to installing the pipes in the carburetors.
15 Joining is the reverse of the disassembly procedure, noting the
following.
a) Use new O-rings on the fuel and vent line fittings.
b) After all four carburetors are connected, loosen the synchro-
nization adjusting screws and re-install the synchronization
springs.
c) On 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models, tighten the
carburetor joining screws only lightly at this stage.
d) The coil springs between the throttle shafts can be installed after
the carburetors have been loosely attached to the air chamber
(see illustration).
e) Prior to connecting the carburetors to the air chamber, be sure the
rubber velocity stacks, grommets and dowel pins are all securely in
place (see illustration). Tighten the air chamber screws in a
criss-cross sequence.
16 After reconnection is complete, a bench synchronization procedure
should be carried out as follows.
17 Turn the throttle stop screw (used to adjust the idle speed) so the
throttle valve in the no. 1 carburetor is aligned with the rear edge of the
10.17a On no. 1 carburetor, use the throttle stop screw ... front by-pass hole, located in the carburetor bore (see illustrations).
4-16 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

10.17b ... to set the throttle valve level with the rear edge of 10.18 Set up the other throttle valves using the
the front bypass hole (arrow) synchronizing screws (arrows)
18 Align the throttle valves in each of the other carburetors in the 10 Make sure the cables are correctly connected and locate the
same manner by turning the synchronization adjusting screws (see outer cable adjusters in the mounting bracket.
illustration). 11 Where necessary, fit the carburetors to the cylinder head and
19 Open the throttle slightly by pressing on the throttle linkage, securely tighten the intake rubber clips.
then release it and make sure it returns smoothly with no drag or 12 Adjust the cables as described in Chapter 1. Turn the
binding. Also check the choke valve linkage for smooth operation. handlebars back and forth to make sure the cables don't cause
If the choke linkage arms were disconnected from each other, new the steering to bind.
cotter pins should be used on reassembly. 13 Install the air filter housing as described in Section 14. Prior to
20 Install the carburetors on the motorcycle (see Section 7). fitting the fuel tank, start the engine and turn the handlebars back
21 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, tighten the and forth to make sure the idle speed doesn't rise as the bars are
carburetor joining screws securely. turned. If it does, the cables are incorrectly routed. Sort out the
22 Carry out carburetor synchronization (see Chapter 1). problem before riding the motorcycle.
14 Install the fuel tank (see Section 2).

11 Throttle cables - removal and installation 12 Choke cable - removal, installation and freeplay check
Warning: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 before
proceeding Removal
1 Remove the fuel tank (Sabre) or trig it up if less than half full
Removal (Magna).
1 Remove the air filter housing as described in Section 14. 2 Loosen the choke cable retainer screw, near the no. 1
2 Loosen the throttle cable locknuts then free each outer cable carburetor.
from its mounting bracket. Detach the inner cables from the throttle 3 Disengage the cable outer from its retainer clamp and then
pulley. If necessary to improve access to throttle cam, loosen the disengage the end of the cable from the lever.
four retaining clips securing the carburetor intake rubbers to the 4 Remove the rear view mirror from the left side.
cylinder head and disengage the carburetors from the cylinder 5 On early models, remove the two bolts that hold the clutch
head. Keep the carburetors upright to prevent fuel spillage. master cylinder to the handlebars and lift the master cylinder off
3 Unscrew the three (early models) or two (later models) right (keep it level to prevent fluid leakage). Disengage the cable
handlebar switch screws and free the switch from the handlebar. trunnion from the choke lever.
4 Disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle grip and unscrew 6 On later models (where the cable goes into the base of the
each cable from the lower half of the handlebar switch. Mark each handlebar switch), remove the two screws from the switch
cable to ensure it is connected correctly on installation. underside and separate the switch halves. Disengage the cable
5 Remove the cables from the machine noting their exact trunnion from the choke lever.
routing. 7 Unscrew the cable casing from the clutch master cylinder clamp
(early models) or handlebar switch lower half (later models) and
Installation then withdraw it from the motorcycle.
6 Install the cables making sure they are correctly routed. The
cables must not interfere with any other component and should not Installation and freeplay check
be kinked or bent sharply. 8 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Lubricate
7 Screw the cables into the lower half of the handlebar switch, the cable inner and ensure that it is routed in its original path and
making sure they are correctly connected. Lubricate the end of secured with any relevant ties.
each cable with multi-purpose grease and attach the cables to the 9 Set the cable freeplay by pulling the choke operating lever on
throttle grip pulley. the handlebar fully back (choke on) and check for any further
8 Fit the switch lower half to the handlebar, locating its peg in the movement at the choke lever on the carburetors. There should be
handlebar hole. Fit the top half of the switch and securely tighten no freeplay; if there is, loosen the outer cable clamp screw and
the screws (forward screws must be tightened first). reposition the outer cable accordingly. Push the choke operating
9 Lubricate the end of each cable with multi-purpose grease and lever fully forward (choke off) and check for a small amount of
attach them to the carburetor throttle cam. slack in the carburetor linkage, indicating that the choke is fully
off.
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-17
11 Measure the amount of fuel in the jar and multiply it by 12 to
arrive at the output per minute. If the pump is operating correctly it
should produce approximately 800 cc (27 US fl oz, 28 Imp fl oz).
12 Remove the testing equipment and reconnect the wiring and
fuel hose.
1100 Magna models
13 Remove the seat and side covers (see Chapter 6).
14 Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then disconnect the fuel
pump relay connector. Using a jumper wire, short the black and
white wire terminals on the harness side of the connector together.
15 Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the carburetors and place
its open end in a glass jar. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds, then
turn it OFF.
16 Measure the amount of fuel in the jar and multiply it by 12 to
arrive at the output per minute. If the pump is operating correctly it
should produce approximately 614 cc (21 US fl oz, 22 Imp fl oz).
17 Remove the testing equipment and reconnect the wiring and
fuel hose.
13.3 When checking the fuel pump output, route the carburetor Removal and installation
fuel supply hose into a glass jar or measuring vessel
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models
18 Remove the seat.
13 Fuel pump - check, removal and installation 19 Remove the main fuel tank as described in Section 2.
20 Remove both side covers (see Chapter 6).
Warning: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 before 21 Disconnect the battery leads, negative lead first. Remove the
proceeding. battery.
22 Remove the battery tray.
Check 23 Remove the starter relay (see Chapter 8).
Refer to illustration 13.3 24 Turn the fuel valve OFF and clamp the fuel hoses to prevent
1 Make sure there is adequate fuel in the fuel tank and that the fuel flow. Have a rag handy to catch fuel spills, then detach the fuel
battery is fully charged. inlet and outlet hoses from the fuel pump.
2 With the engine running, examine all fuel lines between the fuel 25 Disconnect the wiring connectors leading to the fuel pump.
tank and fuel pump for leaks, loose connections, kinks or crimps 26 Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts and lift out the fuel
in the rubber hoses. Air leaks before the fuel pump can seriously pump.
affect the pump's output. 27 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
3 Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the carburetors. Place a 1985 and 1986 700 Magna models
clean container such as a glass jar at the end of the detached fuel
hose and turn the ignition switch on for several seconds (see 28 Remove both side covers (see Chapter 6).
illustration). There should be strong, regular spurts of fuel from 29 Disconnect the battery leads, negative lead first.
30 Turn the fuel valve OFF and clamp the fuel hoses to prevent
the line until the ignition switch is turned off again.
4 If little or no fuel emerges from the line during the test, then fuel flow. Have a rag handy to catch fuel spills, then detach the fuel
inlet and outlet hoses from the fuel pump.
either the line or fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump is not
working properly. Disconnect all fuel lines and blow them out. 31 Disconnect the wiring connectors leading to the fuel pump.
Replace the fuel filter (see Chapter 1). If the lines and filter are not 32 Maneuver the fuel pump out of its mounting rubber.
clogged, then the pump is faulty and should be replaced. 33 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
5 A more accurate method of testing fuel pump flow capacity is to 1100 Sabre models
perform the previous test using a measuring container and a
34 Remove the seat and both side covers (see Chapter 6).
watch according to the following sub-Section.
35 Disconnect the battery leads, negative lead first.
1982 through 1986 700/750 Magna models 36 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the fuel pump, fuel unit
and both spark units.
6 Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds, then turn it OFF. Measure
37 To gain access to the fuel pump, remove the right side spark
the amount of fuel in the glass jar and multiply it by 12 to arrive at
unit from its holder and the stop/tail light sensor from its holder
the output per minute. On 1982 through 1984 models the pump
(use the wiring diagram at the end of this manual for component
should produce approximately 614 cc (21 US fl oz, 22 Imp fl oz) of
identification).
fuel, and on 1985 and 1986 models it should produce
38 Turn the fuel valve OFF and clamp the fuel hoses to prevent
approximately 600 cc (20 US fl oz, 21 Imp fl oz) of fuel.
fuel flow. Have a rag handy to catch fuel spills, then detach the fuel
1100 Sabre models inlet and outlet hoses from the fuel pump.
7 Remove the seat and left side cover (see Chapter 6). 39 Maneuver the fuel pump out of its rubber mounting.
8 With the fuel supply hose connected to the carburetors, start the 40 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Refer to the
engine and pinch the fuel valve vacuum hose, then turn the fuel wiring diagram at the end of this manual, and ensure that all
valve OFF and ignition switch OFF. electrical connections have been made correctly.
9 Disconnect the fuel pump relay connector, and using a jumper 1100 Magna models
wire, short the black/light green and white wire terminals on the
41 Remove the seat and both side covers (see Chapter 6).
harness side of the connector together.
42 Disconnect the battery leads, negative lead first.
10 Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the carburetors and place
43 Turn the fuel valve OFF and clamp the fuel hoses to prevent
its open end in a glass jar. Turn the fuel valve ON, then turn the
fuel flow. Have a rag handy to catch fuel spills, then detach the fuel
ignition ON for 5 seconds, then turn the ignition OFF.
inlet and outlet hoses from the fuel pump.
44 Disconnect the wiring connector leading to the fuel pump.
4-18 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

15 Check the sealing ring at the housing-to-air chamber joint; if broken

to deteriorated, replace it.
16 Installation is the reverse of removal.

1100 Sabre model

17 Remove the air filter element as described in Chapter 1.
18 Remove the two screws on the outside edges of the housing and
detach it from the air chamber. Recover the sealing ring.
19 Before installing the housing, release its clip and pull the drain tube
off the stub on the corner of the housing. Empty the tube and housing
of any sludge and refit the tube and clip.
20 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check the condition of the
housing-to-air chamber sealing ring; if damaged replace it.

1100 Magna model

21 There is no air filter housing on this model because the element
cover screws directly to the top of the air chamber.

15.2 Take care not to bend the float arm when removing the fuel
15 Fuel sender - removal and installation
sender from the tank
Warning: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 before proceeding.

45 Remove the two mounting bolts and lift the pump upwards and out All Sabre models and 1985/86 700 Magna
of the motorcycle. Note the location of the washer, grommet, collar and models
nut. Refer to illustration 15.2
46 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2) and drain all fuel into a
container suitable for the storage of gasoline (petrol).
14 Air filter housing - removal and installation 2 The fuel sender is secured to the tank base by four nuts. Recover
the O-ring and be especially careful not to bend the float arm as the
sender is withdrawn through the tank base (see illustration).
1982 750 Sabre model 3 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting that a new
1 Remove the air filter elements as described in Chapter 1. O-ring should be used between the tank and sender.
2 Remove the three screws on each side and detach the air filter
housings from the side of the air chamber. Recover the sealing rings. 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models and
3 Installation is a reverse of removal, noting that the sealing rings must all 1100 Magna models
be replaced if damaged.
4 Remove the seat and left side cover (see Chapter 6).
5 Drain all fuel from the main fuel tank and half of the auxiliary tank
1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabre and 1982 into a container suitable for the storage of gasoline (petrol).
through 1986 700/750 Magna models 6 The sender is set in the top of the auxiliary fuel tank. Disconnect its
4 Remove the air filter element as described in Chapter 1. wires and unscrew the sender from the tank. Plug the tank opening
5 On Magna models, remove the single screw and collar from the top while the sender is removed.
rear of the housing and loosen the screw clamp which secures the 7 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting that a new
housing to the carburetor air chamber. On Sabre models, remove the sealing ring should be installed between the tank and sender unit.
three screws which retain the housing to the air chamber.
6 Pull the crankcase breather hose off the back of the housing and lift
the housing up and off the motorcycle. 16 Crankcase breather - general information and system
7 Before installing the housing, release its clip and pull the drain tube components check
off the stub on the base of the housing. Empty the tube and housing of
any sludge and refit the tube and clip.
8 On Magna models, inspect the condition of the flexible hose between General information
the air chamber and filter housing; replace it if split or deteriorated. Refer to illustration 16.1
9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Ensure that the housing front 1 The crankcase breather prevents the discharge of hydrocarbons
end engages the air duct correctly. from crankcase vapor into the atmosphere. Gases are sucked out of
the crankcase via engine vacuum, through a hose to the separator
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models tank, and from there through another hose up to the air filter housing
10 Remove the air filter element as described in Chapter 1. or chamber. From there, the gases combine with fresh air and are
11 Remove the air chamber side covers (single screw at lower edge) sucked into the carburetors for reburning (see illustration).
and the screws which secure the air chambers to the air filter housing; 2 Over a period of time, sludge may build up in the separator tank and
you may need to move the thermostat (right side) and air injection hoses to the extent that they become clogged. Rough idling or a
control valve assembly (left side) to gain access to the screws. reduced engine speed at idle are indications of this condition.
12 Working from the top of the air filter housing, remove the six screws 3 Certain models have a drain tube or catch tank linked to the
which retain the housing to the air chamber on the carburetors. separator tank which has to be emptied in accordance with the
13 Pull the crankcase breather hose off the back of the housing and lift maintenance schedule (see Chapter 1), but on others, the system will
it up and off the motorcycle. have to be disassembled and cleaned out if a blockage is suspected.
14 Before installing the housing, release its clip and pull the drain tube
off the stub on the base of the housing. Empty the tube and housing of System components check
any sludge and refit the tube and clip. Refer to illustration 16.6
4 To check for proper vacuum in the system, disconnect the rubber
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-19

16.1 Crankcase breather system

hose where it exits the rear of the crankcase. With the engine idling,
place your thumb lightly over the end of the hose. You should feel a
slight vacuum. The suction may be heard as your thumb is released.
This will indicate that air is being drawn all the way through the system.
If a vacuum is felt, the system is functioning properly.
5 If there is no or very little vacuum at the end of the hose, the system
is either clogged or an air leak exists. Remove the separator tank and
connecting hoses, and blow them through with compressed air.
6 Air leaks might be due to a cracked hose, poor connection or cracked
separator tank (see illustration).

17 Evaporative emission control system (1984-on

California models) - general information

Refer to illustrations 17.1a, 17.1b, 17.1c and 17.1d 1 This system

conforms to the California Air Resources Board (CARB) requirements
governing stringent emission control standards. Fuel vapors are routed
16.6 Crankcase breather separator tank (arrow) will be found in the from the fuel system into the engine to be burned, instead of letting
mid-frame area - 700/750 Sabre location shown them evaporate into the atmosphere. While the engine is stopped,
vapors are absorbed by and stored in a carbon canister (see
illustrations).

17.1a Evaporative
emission control system -
700/750 Sabres and 1982
through 1985 Magnas
1 Fuel tank
2 Canister
3 Purge control valve
4-20 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

17.1b Evaporative emission control

system -1100 Sabres and
1986-on 1100 Magnas
1 Fuel tank
2 Canister
3 Purge control valve
4 Air vent control valve

17.1c Evaporative emission control and secondary air supply systems - 1986 700 Magna

1 Fuel tank 5 Air injection control valve

2 Canister 6 Air suction valve
3 Purge control valve 7 Air filter housing
4 Air vent control valve 8 Reed valves (rear cylinders)
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-21

17.1d Evaporative emission

control and secondary air
supply systems - 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas
1 Fuel tank
2 Canister
3 Purge control valve
4 Air vent control valve
5 Air injection control valve
6 Air suction valves
7 Air filter housing

2 The air vent control valve (fitted to all 1100 Sabre models and all 18 Secondary air supply system (1986-on 700/750
1986-on Magna models) routes vapor from the carburetor float California models) - general information
chambers to the canister. The stored fuel vapor is drawn from the
canister when the engine is started and the purge valve opens to allow
vapor to pass to the carburetors. 1 This system introduces fresh air into the exhaust ports to promote the
3 The system hoses and canister should be checked for cracks and burning of any excess fuel present in the exhaust gases, resulting in
damage in accordance with the maintenance schedule (see Chapter reduction in the amount of harmful hydrocarbons released into the
1). Apart from the inspection and replacement of hoses, if the system atmosphere (see illustrations 17.1c and 17.1d).
is suspected of failure it must be tested by a Honda dealer. If the 2 The system is not adjustable and can be tested only by a Honda
motorcycle is difficult to re-start when hot, it is likely that the purge dealer. Routine checks which can be performed by the owner are given
control valve is at fault. in Chapter 1.
4 The canister is mounted on the lower frame tube brace at the front of
the motorcycle (on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas, remove the belly System components -1986 model
fairing for access). The purge control valve is mounted on a bracket on 3 The air injection control valve is mounted on the left side of the front
the left side of the cylinder head; removal of the front left side cover or cylinder bank, just below the fuel system purge control valve. The air
air chamber side cover will be necessary on certain models for access suction valve is mounted on the front of the oil pan, to the rear of the
to the valve. The air vent control valve is located above the carburetors fuel system canister.
and can be accessed after removal of the main fuel tank. 4 When the engine is running, the depression present in the intake
5 Details of the vacuum hose connections are given on a label stuck to duct acts on the vacuum diaphragm in the air injection control valve
the inside of either side cover or on the rear fender. All hoses should and opens up the valve.
carry a label containing their number reference, but if not, tag them 5 With the valve open, whenever there is a negative pulse in the
carefully when disconnecting. exhaust system (ie on the overrun), filtered air is drawn from the air
6 Information relating to emission control is provided on a label stuck to filter housing through the air injection control valve and into the exhaust
the right side lower frame tube on models through 1986 or to the right ports of the rear cylinders. The same system applies for the front
side upper frame tube on models from 1987-on. cylinders, but the filtered air is drawn through the air injection control
valve and the air suction valve before reaching the exhaust ports.
4-22 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

19.3 Exhaust system - early four-into-two design

6 The air suction valve is fitted with a pair of one-way check valves 19 Exhaust system - removal and installation
to prevent the exhaust gases passing from the front cylinders
through both valves and into the air filter housing. Reed valves
mounted on the side of the rear cylinders prevent gases from the
1982 through 1986 700/750 models and all 1100
rear cylinders passing through the air injection control valve and models
into the air filter housing. Refer to illustrations 19.3, 19.9a, 19.9b and 19.11

System components - 1987 and 1988 models Mufflers (silencers)

7 The air injection control valve is housed in the left side air 1 Place the motorcycle on its main stand.
chamber; remove the air chamber side cover for access. The air 2 Remove the trim panel (where fitted) from the muffler-to-exhaust
suction valve which supplies the front cylinders is mounted on the system joint. Loosen fully the clamp which retains this joint.
front of the oil pan, just behind the fuel system canister; the belly 3 Remove the muffler mounting nut and bolt from the passenger
fairing will require removal for access. The air suction control valve footpeg bracket, making careful note of the position of all washers,
for the rear cylinders is mounted below the coolant reservoir tank. spacers and damping rubbers. Pull the muffler rearwards, twisting
8 When the engine is running, the depression present in the intake it from side-to-side to help release it from its joint clamp. Due to
duct acts on the vacuum diaphragm in the air injection control the joint gaskets, the fit is tight (see illustration).
valve and opens up the valve. 4 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that
9 With the valve open, whenever there is a negative pulse in the new gaskets must be used at all joints. Tighten all fasteners
exhaust system (ie on the overrun), filtered air is drawn from the air loosely at first, and then when the system is in its correct position,
filter housing through the air injection control valve and air suction secure them to the specified torque (see Specifications).
valves and into the exhaust ports.
10 The air suction valves are fitted with a pair of reed valves to Complete system
prevent the exhaust gases passing from the cylinders through both 5 Place the motorcycle on its main stand.
valves and into the air filter housing. 6 Remove the muffler (silencer) mounting bolt on each side and
place a wood block under the assembly to take its weight and
prevent strain while the main exhaust fasteners are released.
7 Remove the nuts that retain the exhaust pipes to the front
cylinder head.
8 Loosen fully the clamps that secure the exhaust chamber to the
two rear exhaust headpipes.
9 On 700/750 models remove the two exhaust chamber mounting
bolts (one is located on the left side of the engine and one is
located underneath the engine) (see illustrations). On 1100
models the chamber is held by a single long bolt on the left side
of the engine (remove the rear left engine cover for access).
10 Carefully work the rear cylinder pipes out of the chamber stubs
and lower the complete exhaust system clear of the motorcycle.
Note that the rear cylinder pipe clamps may need to be rotated to
clear the swingarm.
11 On all models except the 1985 and 1986 700 Magnas, the rear
cylinder headpipes can be removed after removing the exhaust
system. First remove the screws that attach the heat shield to
both headpipes, then remove the nuts that attach the pipes to the
rear cylinder head bank. Carefully work each pipe up and out the
side of the motorcycle (see illustration). Due to lack of
clearance, the heat shield cannot be removed without first
19.9a Exhaust chamber bolts are located on left side of engine ...
removing other components. On 1985
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 4-23

19.9b ... and underneath the engine (early 700/750 models) 19.11 Rear cylinder header pipes can be maneuvered out of
frame after exhaust system has been removed
and 1986 700 models, engine removal will be necessary to remove
the rear cylinder headpipes.
12 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that
new gaskets must be used at all joints. Tighten all fasteners loosely at
first, and then when the system is in its correct position, secure them
to the specified torque (see Specifications).

1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models

Refer to illustration 19.16

Muffler (silencer)
13 Ensure that the motorcycle is securely supported on its stand.
14 Remove the belly fairing rear sections (see Chapter 6).
15 Remove the muffler (silencer) bracket mounting bolt on each side
and place a wood block under the assembly to take its weight and
prevent strain while the joint clamps are loosened.
16 Loosen fully the clamps that secure the two front cylinder pipes and
two rear cylinder exhaust headpipes to the mufflers. Work the muffler
stubs off the pipes and lower the muffler assembly free (see
illustration).
17 If required, the right and left side mufflers can be separated after
the connecting pipe clamp bolt has been fully loosened and the joint
pulled apart.
18 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that new
gaskets must be used at all joints. Tighten all fasteners loosely at first,
and then when the system is in its correct position, secure them to the
19.16 Exhaust system - four-into-four design
specified torque (see Specifications).

Complete system
19 Ensure that the motorcycle is securely supported on its stand.
24 If required, the right and left side mufflers can be separated after the
20 Remove the belly fairing (see Chapter 6).
connecting pipe clamp bolt has been fully loosened and the joint pulled
21 Remove the muffler (silencer) bracket mounting bolt on each side
apart.
and place a wood block under the assembly to take its weight and
25 Engine removal will be necessary to remove the rear cylinder
prevent strain while the main exhaust fasteners are released.
headpipes from the cylinder head; the pipes are covered by a heat
22 Remove the nuts that retain the exhaust pipes to the front cylinder
shield and retained to the head by nuts.
head.
26 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting that new
23 Loosen fully the clamps that secure the two rear exhaust headpipes
gaskets must be used at all joints. Tighten all fasteners loosely at first,
to the mufflers and carefully work the headpipes out of the stubs and
and then when the system is in its correct position, secure them to the
lower the complete exhaust system clear of the motorcycle.
specified torque (see Specifications).
 5-1

Chapter 5 Ignition
system
Note: Unless specifically mentioned in this Chapter, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Contents
Section Section
General information........................................................................ 1 Gearehange/neutral/OD switch - check and
Ignition HT coils - check, removal and installation ........................ 3 replacement............................................................... See Chapter 8
Ignition (main) key switch - removal and installation....... See Chapter 8 Pulse generators - check, removal and installation....................... 4
Ignition kill (stop) switch - removal and installation......... See Chapter 8 Spark plug replacement.................................................. See Chapter 1
Ignition system - check.................................................................. 2 Spark unit(s) - check, removal and installation.............................. 5
Ignition timing - general information and check............................. 6

Specifications

Firing order........................................................................................ 1-2-3-4

Cylinder identification.................................................................. See illustration 1.1 in Chapter 2

Ignition timing
Initial (at 'F' mark)
1982 and 1983 750 Sabres, 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models
............................................................ 10° BTDC @ idle speed
1984 and 1985 700 Sabres, 1985 through
1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................................ 15° BTDC @ idle speed
1100 models....................................................................................... 10° BTDC @ idle speed
Full advance
1982 through 1985 700/750 Sabres, 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna
models............................................... 37° BTDC @ 3,300 rpm
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 37° BTDC @ 3,500 rpm
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 40° BTDC @ 3,500 rpm
1100 models....................................................................................... 37° BTDC @ 3,800 rpm

Pulse generators
Resistance
1982 through 1986 models................................................................ 480 ohms ±10%
1987 and 1988 700/750 models ........................................................ 450 to 550 ohms
Air gap (1100 models).............................................................................. 0.4 to 0.6 mm (0.016 to 0.024 in)

Ignition HT coils
Primary resistance
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 2.0 ohms
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 2.6 to 3.2 ohms
All other models ................................................................................. 2.8 ohms
Secondary resistance (with plug caps on)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 29 to 40 K ohms
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 21 to 29 K ohms
All other models ................................................................................. 21 to 28 K ohms
Secondary resistance (with plug caps removed)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 20.6 to 27.4 K ohms
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models............................................ 13 to 17 K ohms
All other models ................................................................................. 13.6 to 15.5 K ohms

Spark plugs....................................................................................... See Chapter 1

5-2 Chapter 5 Ignition system

1.1a Ignition system circuit diagram - 700/750 Sabres, 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas and all 1100 models

7 Battery 4 Pulse generators 7 Spark plugs

2 Ignition main (key) switch 5 Spark units 8 To tachometer
3 Engine kill (stop) switch 6 Ignition HT coils

1 General information Each ignition HT coil supplies two spark plugs.

The rear cylinders (1 and 3) operate off one coil and the front
cylinders (2 and 4) off the other. For any given cylinder, the plug is fired
Refer to illustrations 1.1a, 1.1b and 1.1c twice for every engine cycle, but one of the sparks occurs during the
All models are fitted with a magnetically-triggered electronic exhaust stroke and therefore performs no useful function. This
ignition system, which due to its lack of mechanical parts is totally arrangement is usually known as a 'spare spark' or "wasted spark'
maintenance-free. The system comprises a trigger on the starter clutch system.Because of their nature, the individual ignition system I
body, two pulse generator coils, two spark units (single unit on 1985-on components can be checked but not repaired. If ignition system troubles
700/750 Magnas) and two ignition HT coils (see illustrations). occur, and the faulty component can be isolated, the only cure for the
The raised trigger on the starter clutch body magnetically problem is to replace the part with a new one. Keep id mind that most
operates the pulse generator coils as the crankshaft rotates. The pulse electrical parts, once purchased, can't be returned. To avoid unnecessary
generators transmit a signal to the spark unit(s) which then supplies the expense, make very sure the faulty component has been positively
ignition coils with the power necessary to produce the spark at the plugs. identified before buying a replacement part.
The spark unit(s) advances the ignition electronically.

1.1b Ignition system circuit diagram -1985 and 1986 700 Magna models

7 Battery 4 Pulse generators 7 Spark plugs

2 Ignition main (key) switch 5 Spark units 8 To tachometer
3 Engine kill (stop) switch 6 Ignition HT coils 9 To fuel pump
 Chapter 5 Ignition system 5-3

1.1c Ignition system circuit diagram - 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models

1 Battery 4 Pulse generators 7 Spark plugs

2 Ignition main (key) switch 5 Spark units 8 To tachometer
3 Engine kill (stop) switch 6 Ignition HT coils

3 Having observed the above precautions, check that the kill switch is in
the RUN position, turn the ignition switch On and turn the engine over on
the starter motor. If the system is in good condition a regular, strong blue
spark should be evident at each plug electrode. If the spark appears thin
or yellowish, or is non-existent, further investigation will be necessary.
Before proceeding further, turn the ignition off and remove the key as a
safety measure.
4 Note that there are essentially two ignition circuits, one for cylinders 1
and 3, and another for cylinders 2 and 4. If one pair of cylinders is firing well,
but the other isn't, only the components of that circuit must be tested. If
one plug in a circuit is not firing correctly, but the other one is, the problem
will probably lie in the plug cap or the wire. If the problem is occurring in all
four plugs, the fault may be in the ignition switch, engine stop switch or the
wiring leading to or from them. 5 Ignition faults can be divided into two
categories, namely those where the ignition system has failed
completely, and those which are due to a partial failure. The likely faults
are listed below, starting with the most probable source of failure. Work
through the list systematically, referring to the subsequent sections for
2.2 Position the test spark plug so that its threads touch the
full details of the necessary checks and tests. Note: Before checking the
cylinder head - hold it there with insulated pliers if necessary
following items ensure that the battery is fully-charged and that all fuses are
in good condition.
2 Ignition system - check a) Loose, corroded or damaged wiring connections, broken or
shorted wiring between any of the component parts of the ignition
system (see Chapter 8).
Warning: The energy levels in electronic systems can toe very high. On no b) Faulty ignition or engine kill switch (see Chapter 8).
account should the ignition be switched on while the plugs or plug caps c) Faulty gearchange/neutral/OD switch (see Chapter 8).
are being held. Shocks from the secondary (HT) circuit can be most d) Faulty pulse generators or damaged trigger.
unpleasant. Secondly, it is vital that the plugs are soundly grounded
e) Faulty ignition HT coil(s).
(earthed) when the system is checked for sparking. The ignition system
f) Faulty spark unit(s).
components can be seriously damaged if the secondary (HT) circuit
becomes isolated. Refer to illustration 2.2
1 As no means of adjustment is available, any failure of the system can 3 Ignition HT coils - check, removal and installation
be traced to failure of a system component or a simple wiring fault. Of the
two possibilities, the latter is by far the most likely. In the event of failure,
check the system in a logical fashion, as described below. Check
2 Disconnect the wires from No.1 and No.2 cylinder spark plugs and Refer to illustrations 3.5, 3.7a, 3.7b and 3.8
connect each lead to a spare spark plug. Lay each plug on the engine 1 In order to determine conclusively that the ignition coils are
with the threads contacting the engine (see illustration). If necessary, defective, they should be tested by an authorized Honda dealer service
hold each spark plug with an insulated tool. Warning: Don't remove one department which is equipped with the special electrical tester
of the spark plugs from the engine to perform this check -atomized fuel required for this check.
being pumped out of the open spark plug hole could ignite, causing 2 However, the coils can be checked visually (for cracks and other
severe injury! damage) and the primary and secondary coil resistances can be
measured with an ohmmeter. If the coils are undamaged, and if the
5-4 Chapter 5 Ignition system

3.5 Measure the coil's primary resistance between 3.7a Unscrew the metal insert from inside the cap .
the low tension terminals

3.8 On 1987 and 1988 models, the secondary coil resistance can be
measured directly at the high tension terminals
differ greatly from those specified it is likely that the coil is defective.
3.7b ... to free the resistor (arrow) on 1982 through 1986 models Note: If only the first reading obtained is suspect, then the fault lies in
the spark plug cap resistor rather than the coil or HT leads itself.
8 Unscrew the terminal nuts and detach the HT leads from the ignition
resistances are as specified, they are probably capable of proper coil. Measure the resistance between the coil terminals (see illustration).
operation. If both values differ greatly from those specified it is likely that the coil is
3 To gain access to the coils, remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Refer defective. Note: If only the first reading obtained is suspect, then the
to Steps 12 through 15 and the wire colors (see Wiring diagrams at the end fault lies in the HT leads/caps.
of this manual) to identify the coils for the front (2-4) and rear (1 -3) 9 Should any of the above checks not produce the expected result, the
cylinders. coil should be taken to a Honda dealer or auto-electrician for a more
4 Disconnect the primary circuit electrical connectors from the coil and thorough check. If the coil is confirmed to be faulty, it must be replaced;
disconnect the HT lead caps from the plugs that are connected to the coil the coil is a sealed unit and cannot therefore be repaired.
being checked. Mark the locations of all wires before disconnecting them.
5 Set the meter to the ohms x 1 scale and measure the resistance Removal
between the low tension terminals. This will give a resistance reading of Refer to illustrations 3.15a, 3.15b and 3.16
the primary windings and should be within the limits given in the 10 Remove the seat.
Specifications (see illustration). 11 Remove fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
6 To check the condition of the secondary windings, set the meter to the 12 On the 1982 750 Sabre and 1982 through 1986 Magna models, the
K ohm scale and connect the meter probes to the spark plug caps, noting ignition coils are positioned side-by-side across the frame top tubes.
the reading obtained. If this reading is not within the range shown in the 13 On 1983-on 700/750 Sabre models the coil for the front cylinders is
Specifications, refer to Step 7 for all 1982 through 1986 models, or Step 8 mounted on a bracket on the left side of the machine (right side on
for 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models. California models), just to the rear of the radiator (remove the front side
7 Grip each plug cap in turn with pliers (use padding between the cap and cover for access); the coil for the rear cylinders is mounted on the
pliers to prevent damage to the cap rubber body) and using a flat-bladed frame top tubes, near the fuel tank's rear mounting.
screwdriver, unscrew the metal insert from inside the cap. Slide out the 14 The 1100 Sabre's coils are mounted separately on the frame top tubes;
resistor, then slide the rubber body of the cap back along the HT lead to the front coil controls the front cylinders and the rear coil controls the
expose the end of the lead (see illustrations). Measure the resistance rear cylinders.
between each HT lead end. If both values obtained
 Chapter 5 Ignition system 5-5

3.15a Front cylinder bank ignition coil location (arrow)... 3.15b ... and rear cylinder bank coil location on 1987
and 1988 700/750 Magnas

3.16 When removing the coil, unscrew the terminal nuts (arrows) to 4.2a Make tests on the engine side of the connector when
release the HT leads measuring pulse generator coil resistance

15 On 1987-on Magna models the coil for the front cylinders is

mounted on the right side of the steering head (remove plastic cover for
access) and that for the rear cylinders is on the frame top tubes (see
illustrations).
16 Disconnect the spark plug leads from the coil by unscrewing the
terminal nuts (see illustration).
17 Disconnect the wires from the coil primary terminals, having made
note of their original positions.
18 Remove the mounting bolts and lift the coil out.

Installation
19 Installation is the reverse of removal making sure the wiring
connectors and HT leads are securely connected.

4 Pulse generators - check, removal and installation

Check
Refer to illustrations 4.2a and 4.2b 4.2b Pulse generator connector is located in electrical connector
1 Remove the right side cover on 700/750 models and the fuel tank on bracket on 1985-on models
1100 models.
2 Trace the pulse generator wires up from the top of the right same connector as the pulse generator coils on certain models. The
crankcase cover, and separate the wiring at the multi-pin connector connector on 1985-on 700/750 Magnas will be found pressed into the
(see illustration). Note that the oil pressure switch wire shares the electrical components connector bracket (see illustration).
5-6 Chapter 5 Ignition system

models.
8 On all models remove the rear brake pedal, and on 1100 Magna models
also remove the right footpeg. Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
9 Remove the right crankcase cover bolts. There are two different size
bolts, so make a note of their location or store them in the old gasket
when this has been removed.
10 Tap the crankcase cover gently with a soft-faced hammer to break
the gasket seal, then pull it away from the engine. Do not pry between
the gasket sealing surfaces, as damage and eventually oil leaks will
occur. Discard the old gasket and remove the dowels for safekeeping if
they are loose.
11 Remove the pulse generator mounting bolts and then lift the pulse
generator and wiring harness out of position (see illustration). Note: On
700/750 models, do not remove the screws marked with white paint;
these attach the generators to their brackets and should only be
unscrewed if replacement is required.

Installation
12 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following:
4.11 Pulse generator coils are retained by four bolts (arrows)
a) If the pulse generators were removed on 1100 models, use feeler
blades to measure the air gap between each coil face and the
starter clutch body. If outside of that specified (see Specifications
3 On all models except the 1985/86 700 Magnas, use a multimeter set to section of this Chapter), loosen the coil bolts and reposition them
the ohms x 100 scale to measure the resistance between the accordingly.
white/yellow and yellow wires (cylinders 1 and 3) or white/blue and blue b) Ensure that the pulse generator wiring is routed away from the
wires (cylinders 2 and 4) on the generator side of the connector. Carry out starter clutch gear and press the wiring grommet into the engine
the same test on 1985/86 700 Magnas, but measure between the case.
white/yellow and yellow/blue wires (cylinders 1 and 3) or white/blue and c) Be sure to use a new gasket when installing the engine side cover
blue/yellow wires (cylinders 2 and 4). and check that the two dowels are in place.
4 Compare the reading obtained with that given in the Specifications at d) Fill the engine with oil to the proper level (see Chapter 1).
the start of this Chapter. Either coil must be replaced if the reading e) If the pulse generator coils were disturbed, check the ignition
obtained differs greatly from that given, particularly if the meter indicates a timing (see Chapter 1).
short circuit (no measurable resistance) or an open circuit (infinite, or very
high resistance).
5 Before replacing a pulse generator coil, first check that the fault is not 5 Spark unit(s) - check, removal and installation
due to a damaged or broken wire from the coil to the connector; pinched
or broken wires can usually be repaired.
Check
Removal 1 If the tests shown in the preceding Sections have failed to isolate the
Refer to illustration 4.11 cause of an ignition fault, it is likely that the spark unit(s) is faulty. No test
6 Remove the right side cover on 700/750 models or the fuel tank on details are provided by the manufacturer so the unit(s) can only be
1100 models, and disconnect the pulse generator wiring at the multi- checked by the substitution of a known good replacement.
pin connector.
7 Free the pulse generator wiring from any ties, noting that it may be Removal
necessary to disconnect the oil pressure switch wire on certain All 700/750 Sabre models, 1982 through 1984 700/750
Magna models and all 1100 Magna models
Refer to illustration 5.4
2 Remove the seat and disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 The spark units are mounted on the rear fender. Free the spark unit
wiring from any clamps or ties and separate its multi-pin connectors.
4 On 700/750 Sabre models, remove the screw that retains the spark
unit upper bracket (see illustration). Note that on the 1985 700 Sabre one
of the spark units is situated under the right side cover.
5 Maneuver the spark units free.

1985 and 1986 700 Magna models

6 Remove the seat and the side covers. Disconnect the battery negative
lead.
7 Separate the 6-pin and 4-pin connectors housed in the electrical
components connector bracket. On the other side of the motorcycle, free
the fuel pump from its mounting rubber and remove the screw to release
the fuel filter retaining bracket (there's no need to disconnect the pump or
filter).
8 Remove the toolbox mounting bolt and withdraw it together with the
spark unit.
5.4 Spark units (arrow) are mounted on rear fender on 700/750
Sabres, 1100 Magnas and early 700/750 Magnas
 Chapter 5 Ignition system 5-7

1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models

Refer to illustration 5.10
) Remove the seat and the side covers. Disconnect the battery

10 Separate the 6-pin and 4-pin connectors housed in the electrical

components connector bracket and lift the spark unit free (it is located at
the front of the battery) (see illustration).

1100 Sabre models

11 Remove the seat and side covers. Disconnect the battery negative
lead.
12 The spark units are mounted just to the rear of the fuel tank rear
mounting point. Free the spark unit wiring from any clamps or ties and
separate its multi-pin connectors. Maneuver the spark units free.

Installation
13 Installation is the reverse of removal ensuring that all wiring
connections are correctly made. Reconnect the battery negative lead
last.

5.10 Spark unit location on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas

6 Ignition timing - general information and check

lies between the two full advance lines on the rotor. Note: Do not run the
General information engine any longer than is necessary to complete this check. If
1 No provision exists for adjusting the ignition timing and since no significant oil loss occurs (due to the replacement cover not being
component is subject to mechanical wear, there is no need for regular used) stop the engine and top up the oil level.
checks; only if investigating a fault such as a loss of power or a misfire, 11 Stop the engine, then connect the timing light to either of the front
should the ignition timing be checked. cylinder plug leads. Carry out the same check as described in Step 10,
2 The ignition timing can only be checked while the engine is mining but note that the F mark and full advance lines for cylinders 2 and 4
using a stroboscopic (timing) light. The inexpensive neon amps should should align with the index mark.
be adequate in theory, but in practice may produce a pulse of such low 12 Stop the engine, disconnect the timing light and install the
intensity that the timing mark remains indistinct. If possible, one of the alternator cover using a new gasket. Top up the engine oil (see Chapter
more precise xenon tube lamps should be used, powered by an external 1).
source of the appropriate voltage. Note: Do not use the machine's own
battery as an incorrect reading may result mm stray impulses within the 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
machine's electrical system. Refer to illustration 6.16
13 Run the engine up to normal operating temperature then stop it. Note:
Check The idle speed must be correct for this check (see Chapter 1).
All 1982 through 1986 models 14 Using a box wrench or socket, remove the circular inspection cover
from the right crankcase cover (it may be very tight!).
Note: Access to the ignition timing marks necessitates removal of the
15 Connect the timing light to either of the rear cylinder plug leads and
altemator cover and some loss of engine oil. Honda supply a cover for
certain models which has an inspection aperture for access to the start the engine. Aim the light at the index mark on the periphery of
timing marks and allows the task to be carried out without oil loss; its
art number is 07998-MBOOOOO for 1100 Magnas, 07998-MB40000 for
100 Sabres and 1985/86 700 Magnas, Refer to illustration 6.7
Run the engine up to normal operating temperature then stop it.
Note: The idle speed must be correct for this check (see Chapter 1).
Place the motorcycle on its main stand.
Place a drain tray under the alternator cover, then remove its six
retaining bolts and remove the alternator cover. Recover its gasket.
Wipe any oil off the outside of the alternator rotor.
6 Remove the crankcase rear left cover.
7 Identify the timing marks on the rotor and casing (see illustration).
The casing index mark is formed by the crankcase joint. It is advisable to
highlight the timing marks with white paint to make them more distinct
under the timing light.
8 If using the Honda replacement cover described above, install it at this
stage. Note that the replacement cover has an index mark stamped in
its aperture.
9 Connect the timing light to either of the rear cylinder plug leads. Start
the engine and aim the timing light at the index mark on the casing.
10 With engine at idle speed the F mark on the rotor should align with
the index mark. Increase engine speed to 3,500 rpm (1985 and 1986 700
Magnas) or 3,300 rpm (all 700/750 Sabres and earlier Magnas) or 3,800
rpm (all 1100 models) and check that the index mark 6.7 Timing marks are on alternator rotor on 1982 through 1986
models - F mark at idle (upper arrow) and full
advance mark (lower arrow)
5-8 Chapter 5 Ignition system

the cover aperture.

16 With the engine at idle speed, the F mark on the starter clutch body
should align exactly with the cover index mark (see illustration).
17 Raise engine speed to 3,500 rpm to check the advance function. At
this speed the index mark should lie between the two parallel lines to the
left of the F mark. Note: Do not run the engine any longer than
necessary to complete this check.
18 Stop the engine, then connect the timing light to either of the front
cylinder plug leads. Carry out the same check as described in Steps 16
and 17, but note that the F mark and full advance lines for cylinders 2 and
4 should align with the index mark.
19 Stop the engine, disconnect the timing light and install the
inspection cover.

All models
20 As already stated, there is no means of adjustment of the ignition
timing on these machines. If the ignition timing is incorrect one of the
ignition system components is at fault, and system must be tested as
described in the preceding Sections of this Chapter.
6.16 Ignition timing F mark aligned with casing index
mark on 1987 and 1988 700/750 models
 6-1

Chapter 6
Frame, suspension and final drive
Note: Unless specifically mentioned in this Chapter, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Contents
Section Sect/on
Anti-dive (TRAC) - removal and installation ................................... Rear shock absorber(s) - removal and installation.........................
9 12
Bodywork and seat - removal and installation............................... Rear shock absorber linkage (Sabre models) - removal,
19 inspection and installation ........................................................
Final drive unit - oil level and oil change ......................... See 13
Chapter 1 Side and center stands - removal and installation.........................
Final drive unit and driveshaft - removal, inspection 4
and installation.......................................................................... Steering head bearings - check and adjustment............ See
18 Chapter 1
Footpegs and brackets - removal and installation......................... Steering head bearings - inspection and replacement..................
3 11
Forks - disassembly, inspection and reassembly.......................... Steering stem - removal and installation........................................
8 10
Forks - oil change........................................................................... Suspension - adjustments.............................................................
6 14
Forks - removal and installation..................................................... Suspension - checks....................................................... See
7 Chapter 1
Frame - inspection and repair........................................................ Swingarm - inspection and bearing replacement..........................
2 17
General information........................................................................ Swingarm - removal and installation..............................................
1 16
Handlebars - removal and installation............................................ Swingarm bearings - check...........................................................
5 15

Specifications

Front forks
Air pressure
1982 models....................................................................................... 6 to 14 psi (0.41 to 0.97 Bars)
1983 through 1986 models................................................................ 0 to 6 psi (0 to 0.41 Bars)
Spring free length
1982 750 models................................................................................ 532 mm (20.94 in)
1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabre and 1983/84 700
and 750 Magna models................................................................ 553 mm (21.75 in)
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models...................................... 472 mm (18.59 in)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 534 mm (21.02 in)
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 415 mm (16.33 in)
Spring service limit
1982 750 models................................................................................ 521 mm (20.5 in)
1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabre and 1983/84 700
 and 750 Magna models................................................................ 542 mm (21.3 in)
1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models...................................... 464 mm (18.2 in)
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 523 mm (20.6 in)
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 404 mm (15.9 in)
Fork tube runout...................................................................................... 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
6-2 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final
drive

Oil capacity - per leg

1982 750 Sabre model
Right fork ...................................................................................... 375 cc (12.7 US fl oz, 13.2
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 390 cc (13.2 US fl oz, 13.7 Imp fl oz)
1983 750 Sabre model
Right fork ...................................................................................... 360 cc (12.2 US fl oz, 12.7
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 375 cc (12.7 US fl oz, 13.2 Imp
fl oz)
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models
Right fork ...................................................................................... 340 cc (11.5 US fl oz, 12.0
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 360 cc (12.2 US fl oz, 12.7 Imp
fl oz)
1982 750 Magna model
Right fork ...................................................................................... 390 cc (13.2 US fl oz, 13.7
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 405 cc (13.7 US fl oz, 14.3 Imp
fl oz)
1983 750 Magna model
Right fork ...................................................................................... 420 cc (14.2 US fl oz, 14.8
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 447 cc (15.1 US fl oz, 15.7 Imp
fl oz)
1984 700 Magna model
Right fork ...................................................................................... 420 cc (14.2 US fl oz, 14.8
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 440 cc (14.9 US fl oz, 15.5 Imp
fl oz)
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models
Right fork ...................................................................................... 545 cc (18.4 US fl oz, 19.2
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 560 cc (18.9 US fl oz, 19.7 Imp
fl oz)
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 415 cc (14.0 US fl oz, 14.6
Imp fl oz)
1100 Sabre models
Right fork ...................................................................................... 470 cc (15.9 US fl oz, 16.5
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 495 cc (16.7 US fl oz, 17.4 Imp fl oz)
1100 Magna models
Right fork ...................................................................................... 565 cc (19.1 US fl oz, 19.9
Imp fl oz)
Left fork......................................................................................... 580 cc (19.6 US fl oz, 20.4 Imp
fl oz)
Oil type..................................................................................................... ATF (Automatic Transmission
Fluid)
Oil level (1100 Sabre models)
Right fork............................................................................................ 235 mm (9.25 in)
Left fork.............................................................................................. 226 mm (8.90 in)

Rear shock absorber

Air pressure range (Sabre models).......................................................... 0 to 57 psi (0 to 3.9 Bars)
Spring free length service limit (Magna models)
1982 and 1983 models....................................................................... 223 mm (8.8 in)
1984 model........................................................................................ 219 mm (8.6 in)
1985 and 1986 models....................................................................... 221 mm (8.7 in)
1987 and 1988 models....................................................................... 240 mm (9.5 in)
1100 models....................................................................................... 244 mm (9.6 in)
Final drive
Final drive unit oil capacity...................................................................... See Chapter 1
Driveshaft damper oil capacity
1985-on 700/750 Magnas and all 1100 Sabre models...................... 50 cc (1.69 US fl oz, 1.76 Imp
fl oz)
All other 700/750 models and all 1100 Magna models...................... 80 cc (2.7 US fl oz, 2.82 Imp fl
oz)
Driveshaft damper oil type
1985-on 700/750 Magnas, 1984-on 1100 models............................. SAE80 Hypoid gear oil
All other 700/750 models and 1983 1100 Magna models
Above 5°C(41°F)..................................................................... SAE90 Hypoid gear oil, API
GL-5
Below 5°C (41°F)..................................................................... SAE80 Hypoid gear oil, API
GL-5
Torque settings Nm ft-lbs
Handlebar clamp bolts
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 20 to 30 14 to 22
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 25 to 35 18 to 25
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 24 to 30 17 to 22
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models..................................................... Not available
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 40 to 50 29 to 36
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 30 to 40 22 to 29
Handlebar pinch bolts
1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models..................................................... 40 to 50 29 to 36
1983 1100 Magna model................................................................... 25 to 30 18 to 22
Clutch and front brake master cylinder clamp bolts (1100 models)........ 10 to 14 7 to 10
Triple clamp pinch bolts
Upper triple clamp.............................................................................. 9 to 13 7 to 9
Lower triple clamp.............................................................................. 45 to 55 33 to 40
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-3

Steering stem pinch bolt (1100 models).................................................. 18 to 30 13 to 22

Front forks
Fork top bolt....................................................................................... 15 to 30 11 to 22
Damper piston socket head bolt........................................................ 15 to 25 11 to 18
Brace bolts......................................................................................... 18 to 28 13 to 20
Front turn signal clamp bolt (1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models)... 9 to 13 7 to 9
Steering stem adjuster nut (see text)
All 700/750 Sabre models, 1982 and 1983
700/750 Magna models................................................................ 14 to 16 10 to 12
1984 700 Magna model..................................................................... 19 to 21 14 to 15
1985-on 700/750 Magna models....................................................... 19 to 23 14 to 17
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 20 to 22 14 to 16
1100 Magna 1983 model
Initial torque.................................................................................. 14 to 16 10 to 12
Final torque................................................................................... 10 to 12 7 to 9
1100 Magna 1984-on models
Initial torque.................................................................................. 19 to 23 14 to 17
Final torque................................................................................... 19 to 21 14 to 15
Steering stem top nut
All 700/750 Sabre models, 1982 and 1983 750 Magna models........ 80 to 120 58 to 87
1984 through 1988 700/750 Magna models...................................... 90 to 120 65 to 87
1983 through 1985 1100 Magna models........................................... 80 to 120 58 to 87
All 1100 Sabre models and 1986 1100 Magna model....................... 90 to 120 65 to 87
Shock absorber mounting bolt nuts/bolts
700/750 Sabre models....................................................................... 38 to 48 28 to 35
1982 through 1986 700/750 Magna models...................................... 30 to 40 22 to 29
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
Upper nuts on both sides and lower bolt on right side ................ 20 to 30 14 to 22
Lower nut on left side ................................................................... 30 to 40 22 to 29
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 40 to 50 29 to 36
1100 Magna models
Upper............................................................................................ 40 to 50 29 to 36
Lower............................................................................................ 30 to 40 22 to 29
Shock absorber linkage (700/750 Sabres) All except shock
absorber lower mounting.............................................................. 60 to 70 43 to 51
Shock absorber linkage (1100 Sabre)..................................................... 40 to 50 29 to 36
Swingarm left pivot shaft......................................................................... 90 to 120 65 to 87
Swingarm right pivot shaft....................................................................... 16 to 20 12 to
14
Swingarm right pivot shaft locknut*......................................................... 100 to 130 72 to 94
Final drive unit-to-swingarm nuts............................................................ 45 to 70 33 to 51
*Tighten using special tool

General information 2 Frame - inspection and repair

The double cradle-type frame incorporates a subframe which acts 1 The frame should not require attention unless accident damage has
as the left front downtube and front crosstube or brace. This subframe is occurred. In most cases, frame replacement is the only satisfactory
detachable to allow for engine removal, and also forms part of the remedy for such damage. A few frame specialists have the jigs and
cooling system, carrying coolant from the radiator to the water pump. other equipment necessary for straightening the frame to the required
All models use telescopic, oil-damped, coil-sprung forks for front standard of accuracy, but even then there is no simple way of
suspension. Those on 1982 through 1986 models are air-assisted and assessing to what extent the frame may have been over stressed.
have anti-dive on the left fork. All 1100 Sabre models have a rebound 2 After the machine has accumulated a lot of miles, the frame should
damping adjuster on the right fork. be examined closely for signs of cracking or splitting at the welded
Rear suspension on Sabre models is by Honda's 'Pro-Link' system joints. Corrosion can also cause weakness at these joints. Loose
in which the swingarm acts on a gas/oil shock via a two piece linkage. engine mount bolts can cause ovaling or fracturing of the mounting
Magna models have two conventional hydraulically-damped shock tabs. Minor damage can often be repaired by welding, depending on
absorbers; those fitted to 1982 and 1983 750 models have aluminum the extent and nature of the damage.
reservoirs to aid cooling. 3 Remember that a frame which is out of alignment will cause handling
The swingarm pivots on tapered-roller bearings and carries the problems. If misalignment is suspected as the result of an accident, it
final driveshaft in its left side. will be necessary to strip the machine completely so the frame can be
Final drive is by shaft. Drive is transmitted through the output thoroughly checked.
gearcase, via the driveshaft, to the final drive unit in the rear wheel hub.
6-4 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

4.1 Main stand pivot pinch bolt locations (arrows) 4.3 Side stand is retained to subframe by pivot bolt (arrow)
Passenger's footpegs
3 Footpegs and brackets - removal and installation 11 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and washer, then slide out the
pivot pin and remove the footpeg from its bracket. Slide the rubber off
Sabre models the footpeg.
12 On 1982 through 1986 models, each bracket is retained to the
Rider's footpegs frame by two socket-head bolts. Support the mufflers from below and
1 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and washer, then slide out the pivot remove the bolt which retains them to the footpeg bracket. Pry out
pin and remove the footpeg from its bracket along with its return spring. their trim caps and unscrew the socket-head bolts to release the
2 To release the rubber from the footpeg, remove the bolt and collar brackets.
and separate the ground plate from the bottom of the footpeg. Slide the
rubber off the footpeg.
3 On 700/750 models, remove the single mounting bolt to release the
bracket from the frame. The bolt also secures the gearshift lever on the
4 Side and center stands - removal and
left side.
4 On 1100 models, both footpeg brackets are held to the frame by the installation Center stand
engine's lower rear mounting bolt. Remove the nut from the left bracket
side and pull the bolt out from the right side; tap it free with a drift if Refer to illustration 4.1
stuck in place. Be careful to note the position of all mounting rubbers 1 The center stand (fitted to models through 1986) is attached to the
and ensure that they are returned to their original locations on frame by a pivot shaft. Periodically, remove the cotter pin (split pin),
installation. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see Chapter 2). loosen both pinch bolts and slide out the pivot shaft. Inspect the shaft
for signs of wear and replace if necessary (see illustration). Apply a
Passenger's footpegs smear of grease to the shaft and fit it the motorcycle. Secure it with a
5 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and washer, then slide out the pivot new cotter pin (split pin). Tighten the pinch bolt nuts securely to clamp
pin and remove the footpeg from its bracket. Slide the rubber off the the shaft in position.
footpeg. 2 Make sure the return spring is in good condition. A broken or weak
6 If removing the right side footpeg bracket on 700/750 models, mark spring is an obvious safety hazard.
the relationship with the rear brake pedal to its shaft end, then remove
its pinch bolt and pull the pedal off the shaft. Sidestand
7 Each bracket is retained to the frame by two socket-head bolts. Refer to illustration 4.3
Support the mufflers from below and remove the bolt which retains 3 The sidestand is mounted on the subframe (see illustration). An
them to the footpeg bracket. Pry out their trim caps and unscrew the extension spring anchored to the subframe ensures that the stand is
socket-head bolts to release the brackets. Note that the bolts are of held in the retracted position.
different length on the 110O's left bracket - the longer bolt is at the front. 4 Make sure the pivot bolt is tight and the extension spring is in good
condition and not over-stretched. An accident is almost certain to
Magna models occur if the stand extends while the machine is in motion. Periodically
check for wear of the stand rubber (see Chapter 1).
Rider's footpegs
8 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and washer, then slide out the pivot
pin and remove the footpeg from its bracket along with its return
spring. 5 Handlebars - removal and installation
9 To release the rubber from the footpeg, remove the bolt and collar
and separate the ground plate from the bottom of the footpeg. Slide the 1 Look closely at how the cables and wiring harnesses are routed
rubber off the footpeg. before removing the bars. It may be helpful to draw a simple diagram
10 Remove the two mounting bolts to release the bracket from the or take an instant photo to use as reference when reinstalling the
frame. On the left side remove the mounting bolt and sleeve to controls.
separate the left footpeg bracket and gearshift lever. 2 Remove both rear view mirrors, then disconnect or cut any plastic
ties that secure the wiring harnesses or cables to the bars.
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-5

17 The left handlebar can now be removed by first loosening the

handlebar pinch bolt and removing the snap-ring from the fork tube.
18 If replacing the left handlebar, the grip can be removed, if desired,
by squirting some contact cleaner underneath it and then twisting it off.
If stuck in place, cut it off with a sharp knife.

Left handlebar installation

19 If the left handlebar grip was removed, degrease the bar end with
solvent and apply an adhesive to the bar end and inside of the new
grip. Install the new grip and rotate it on the bar to distribute the
adhesive. Allow time for the adhesive to set.
20 Install the left handlebar over the fork tube and position it correctly.
Install the snap-ring and then tighten the pinch bolt to the specified
torque.
21 Install the choke lever and reconnect the choke cable.
22 Install the clutch master cylinder, noting the UP marking on its
clamp. Fully tighten the upper bolt first, then the lower.
23 Install the switch halves and tighten the screws securely; tighten
those at the front first.
24 Reconnect the clutch switch wires and secure all wiring and hoses
5.34 Position handlebar clamps so that punch mark (arrow) is next with new ties. Install the rear view mirror.
to upper bolt on later Magnas 25 Check the choke cable freeplay if the cable setting was disturbed
(see Chapter 4).

1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models All Magna models and 1984-on Sabre models
Right handlebar removal Removal
3 Disconnect the wire from the front brake light switch. 26 Disconnect the wires from the front brake light and clutch switches.
4 Remove the screws from the right handlebar switch assembly and 27 Remove the screws from the right and left handlebar switches and
separate the upper and lower sections. Disconnect the throttle cables separate their halves. Disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle
from the throttle grip; back off the adjuster or free them at the grip; back off the cable adjuster or disconnect them from the
carburetors first to create enough cable slack. carburetors first to create enough cable slack. On later models, leave
5 Remove the two brake master cylinder mounting bolts and lift it off. the choke cable outer connected to the switch lower half, but
Tie the assembly out of the way so that the master cylinder is not disconnect the inner cable from the choke lever.
tipped or hanging upside down. 28 Remove the two brake master cylinder mounting bolts and lift it off.
6 The right handlebar can now be removed by first loosening the Tie the assembly out of the way so that the master cylinder is not
handlebar pinch bolt and removing the snap-ring from the fork tube. tipped or hanging upside down. Remove the clutch master cylinder in
Once it is disconnected from the fork leg, the throttle grip and right the same way.
switch assembly can be slid off its end. 29 On early models, there is no need to disconnect the choke cable
outer from the clutch master cylinder clamp, just disconnect the inner
Right handlebar installation cable from choke lever.
7 Spread a light coat of grease over the handlebar end for the throttle 30 On 1983 1100 Magna models it is possible to detach each
to slide on. Slide the throttle grip and switch assembly onto the bars. handlebar from the center section. To do so, remove the set screw
8 Install the right handlebar over the fork tube and position it correctly. from the rear of the handlebar and loosen the pinch bolt on the clamp.
Install the snap-ring and then tighten the pinch bolt to the specified Pull the handlebar out of the center section clamp.
torque. 31 Unclip the plastic cover over the handlebar center section (where
9 Install the front brake master cylinder, noting the UP marking on its fitted). Remove the bolts securing the handlebar holders and lift them
clamp. Fully tighten the upper bolt first, then the lower. off. The handlebars can now be lifted off and the throttle grip slid off of
10 Connect the throttle cables to the throttle grip, then join the switch the right end.
halves and tighten the screws securely; tighten those at the front first. 32 If the bars are to be replaced with new ones, the left grip can be
11 Reconnect the front brake switch wires and secure all wiring and removed, if desired, by squirting some contact cleaner underneath it
hoses with new ties. Install the rear view mirror. and then twisting it off. If firmly stuck in place, cut it off using a sharp
12 Check the throttle cable freeplay if the cables were disturbed (see knife.
Chapter 1).
Installation
Left handlebar removal Refer to illustration 5.34
13 Disconnect the wires from the clutch switch. 33 If the left handlebar grip was removed, degrease the bar end with
14 Remove its screws and separate the two halves of the left solvent and apply an adhesive to the bar end and inside of the new
handlebar switch. On later models, leave the choke cable outer grip. Install the new grip and rotate it on the bar to distribute the
connected to the switch lower half, but disconnect the inner cable from adhesive. Allow time for the adhesive to set.
the choke lever. 34 Place the bars in position in the lower holders so that the punch
15 Remove the two clutch master cylinder mounting bolts and lift off the mark on the bars is aligned with the upper surface of the lower holder.
master cylinder, noting that the master cylinder clamp will remain Install the upper holders, noting that later models will have punch
attached to the choke cable on early models. Tie the assembly out of marks near one of the bolt holes; position the clamps so that the punch
the way so that the master cylinder is not tipped or hanging upside marks are in the top/forward bolt hole locations (see illustration).
down. 35 Install the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. The
16 On early models, there is no need to disconnect the choke cable top/forward bolts should be tightened first, followed by the lower/rear
outer from the clutch master cylinder clamp, just disconnect the inner bolts. Clip the plastic cover over the handlebar center section (where
cable from choke lever. fitted) and insert the caps over the bolts (where fitted).
6-6 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

6.2 Remove fork bolt caps to reveal air valves on 700/750 models 6.3a Fork oil drain plug is on side of slider ...

36 If the handlebars were detached from the center section on 1983

1100 Magna models, install them fully into the clamps and align the
punch mark on each handlebar with the joint of the clamp. Install the
set screw and tighten it securely. Apply a smear of grease to the clamp
bolt and tighten it to the specified torque.
37 Install the choke lever and reconnect the choke cable.
38 Install the clutch and brake master cylinders, noting the UP marking
on their clamps. The joint of the clamps should align with the punch
mark on the handlebar to ensure that the reservoirs are positioned
upright. Fully tighten the upper bolt first, then the lower, both to the
specified torque.
39 Reconnect the throttle cables to the throttle grip, then join both
switch halves, inserting the switch peg into the hole in the handlebar.
Tighten the screws securely; tighten those at the front first.
40 Reconnect the clutch switch wires and front brake switch wires and
secure all wiring and hoses with new ties. Install the rear view mirrors.
41 Check the choke cable freeplay (see Chapter 4) and throttle cable
freeplay (see Chapter 1) if their settings were disturbed.

6 Forks - oil change plugs are situated in the outer face of each slider; the left fork plug on
models with anti-dive is actually on the anti-dive housing (see
Refer to illustrations 6.2, 6.3a and 6.3b illustrations). Note: Remove the fork top bolts to assist oil flow and
1 Fork oil will degrade in time and although not specified as a pump the fork gently up and down to expel as much oil as possible.
maintenance item, it should be changed periodically to preserve its 4 Check the drain plug sealing washer and replace it if damaged.
qualities. 5 Pour the specified amount of ATF into the fork tube (see Specifi-
2 On 1982 through 1986 models, with air-assisted forks, remove the cations), noting that the amount differs for right and left forks on
valve cap(s) and depress the valve stem to release all air pressure models with anti-dive. Pump the forks up and down gently to
(see illustration). distribute the oil.
3 Have a jug ready to catch the fork oil as it escapes and place a piece 6 On 1100 Sabre models a figure is given for fork oil level from the
of thick card against both sides of the tire for protection against oil top of the fork tube. To check, remove the fork spring and pass a
spills. Dealing with one fork at a time, remove the drain plug and its length of welding rod or straight rule down through the inner tube to
sealing washer and catch the oil as it drains from the fork. The drain measure the oil level. Add or remove oil until the level is correct.
Install 6.3b ... except for anti-dive on left fork, where it is on
anti-dive housing (arrow)

the spring with its closely-wound coils at the bottom.

7 On all models install the fork top bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque. Refer to Section 8 when installing the 1100 Sabre's
right side fork top bolt.
8 Set the air pressure on models with air-assisted forks (see Section
14).

7 Forks - removal and installation

Removal
Refer to illustrations 7.8, 7.10a and 7. 10b
1 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 7)
2 Detach both brake calipers and their mounting brackets from the
forks and tie them out of the way so that there is no strain on their
hydraulic hoses (see Chapter 7). Note: Do not operate the brake
lever while the calipers are removed. It is a good idea to slip a block of
wood between the brake pads in each caliper to prevent movement in
the event that the lever is operated.
3 On 1100 models, remove the air valve cap at the top of the left fork
(Sabres) or left fork air joint (Magnas) and depress the valve stem to
expel air pressure from the forks.
4 Remove the front fender/mudguard (see Section 19).
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-7

7.8 Loosen fork pinch bolts on upper and lower triple clamps to
release forks

7.10a Air link pipe and joints (1100 Sabre models)

1 Fork top bolt with air valve

2 Cap
3 Fork top bolt with damping adjuster
4 Air link pipe
5 O-rings

firmly held in the triple clamps.

10 On 1100 models, the air joints and link pipe can be removed from
the motorcycle after removal of the handlebars on Sabre models, or
after removal of the headlight unit and instruments on Magna models.
It is retained to the upper triple clamp by two screws. If dismantled,
always renew all O-rings on installation (see illustrations).

Installation
11 Remove all traces of corrosion from the triple clamps and slide the
fork legs back into place.
7.1 Ob Air link pipe and joints (1100 Magna models) 12 On 700/750 models install the forks in the triple clamps so that the
top of the inner tube is level with the triple clamp top surface, or
1 Air valve 5 Pipe unions handlebar top surface on 1982/83 750 Sabre models. On 1985 through
2 Left air joint 6 Seals 1988 700/750 Magna models the groove around the top of the inner
3 O-rings 7 O-rings tube should be level with the triple clamp top surface. Tighten the
4 Air link pipe 8 Right air joint upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts to the specified torque. On
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, ensure that the front turn
5 On 1982 through 1986 models, pry out their trim caps and remove signal clamp bolts are tightened to the specified torque.
the four bolts from the fork brace, then lift the brace free. 13 On 1982/83 750 Sabre models secure the handlebars in the correct
6 Remove the bolts that attach the brake hose joint to the lower triple position with their pinch bolts and snap-rings.
clamp on 700/750 Sabre models and secure it out of the way. 14 On 1100 models, after installing the fork tubes through the lower
7 On 750 Sabre models, remove the pinch bolts from the handlebar triple clamp, install the air joint ring over the fork tube end and into its
clamps and the snap-rings from the fork tubes, then slide each groove. Push the fork tubes up through the air joints and triple clamp
handlebar off its fork tube. Place a pad over the fuel tank and tie or until the ring touches the underside of the joint. If the air joint was
tape the handlebars together over the tank so that the brake and clutch detached from the upper triple clamp, tighten its two mounting screws.
master cylinders are kept as horizontal as possible to avoid leakage. Tighten the upper and lower triple clamp bolts to the specified torque.
8 Loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and withdraw the 15 If the forks have been disassembled, tighten the fork top bolts to the
fork tubes by pulling them down (see illustration). On 1987 and 1988 specified torque.
700/750 Magna models the front turn signal clamp pinch bolts should 16 Install the front fender (mudguard) and tighten its bolts securely.
be loosened to allow the forks to slide through them. On 1100 models, 17 Install the fork brace, but leave its bolts loose until after the front
the air joint stop ring will have to be carefully pried out of its groove in wheel has been installed and the axle tightened.
the fork tube and slid off the fork tube end before it can pass through 18 Install the front wheel and brake calipers, not forgetting to check the
the lower triple clamp. 9 If the forks are seized in the triple clamps, clearance between the brake disc and caliper bracket (see Chapter 7,
spray the area with penetrating oil and allow time for it to soak in before Section 7). Tighten the fork brace bolts to the specified torque.
trying again. Note: If the forks are to be disassembled, loosen their top 19 Following installation of the forks, carry out air pressure adjustment
bolts while they are and damping adjustment, as applicable (see Section 14). Check the
operation of the front suspension and brakes before riding the
motorcycle.
6-8 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

8.2a Fork components - early 700/750

models (1100 models similar)

8.2b Fork components - 1987 and

1988 700/750 models
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-9

8.6 Use a pumping action to expel as much fork oil as possible

8.9 Remove dust seal (A), foam ring (B), plastic back-up ring (C)
and snap-ring (D) from its groove in slider

8.10 Use a slide-hammer action to separate the slider

and fork tube
8.12 Oil seal (A), back-up ring (B) and slider bushing (C) can be
slid off the fork tube; don't remove fork tube bushing (D)
unless worn
8 Forks - disassembly, inspection and reassembly
use a pumping action to force out the remainder of the oil (see
Disassembly illustration).
7 Support the slider in a vise using a thick towel or piece of wood
Refer to illustrations 8,2a, 8.2b, 8.6, 8.9, 8.10, 8.12 and 8.13
to protect it, then remove the socket head bolt from the bottom of
1 Remove the forks from the triple clamps (see Section 7). the slider. If you find that the damper piston rotates inside the inner
2 Always dismantle the fork legs separately to avoid interchanging tube and consequently the socket bolt cannot be loosened,
parts and thus causing an accelerated rate of wear. Store all temporarily reinstall the spring, spacer and fork cap. Have an
components in separate, clearly marked containers (see assistant compress the fork while the socket bolt is loosened; this
illustrations). should hold the damper piston in position.
3 Pry the plastic cap off the fork top bolt (if equipped). On 1982 8 Invert the fork and let the damper piston and rebound spring
through 1986 700/750 models, relieve the air pressure in the fork slide out of the fork tube. On all 1982 through 1986 models, the left
(if equipped) by depressing the valve stem. The air pressure will fork damper piston cannot be removed until the inner tube and
have been released when the forks were removed from the triple slider have been separated.
clamps on 1100 models. 9 Remove the dust seal from the area where the fork tube enters
4 Remove the fork top bolt; if it's tight, install the fork back into the 6
the slider, then remove the foam ring and plastic back-up ring
triple clamps and tighten the triple clamp bolts to hold the inner (where fitted). Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to ease the
tube while the top bolt is loosened. Warning: Note that there is snap-ring out of its groove and remove it (see illustration).
considerable spring pressure on the cap. While it is being 10 Holding the slider with one hand and the fork tube with the
unscrewed, sufficient pressure should be applied to keep it from other, withdraw the tube to full extension and move it in and out in
popping out. The top bolt O-ring should be replaced with a new one a slide-hammer action (see illustration). This action will tap the
whenever the top bolt is removed. Caution: Do not separate the slider bushing from the slider and allow the inner tube and slider to
damper adjustment rod from the fork top bolt on 1100 Sabre models. be separated.
5 Pull out the spacer and spring seat, then withdraw the spring and 11 The damper piston seat can be removed from the slider at this
make a note of which way up its closer-wound coils are installed. stage.
6 Once the spring has been removed, the fork oil can be drained. 12 Slide the oil seal, back-up ring and slider bushing off of the fork
Invert the tube to drain most of the oil, then grasp the fork slider tube (see illustration).
and
6-10 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

8.13 Oil lock valve components 8.16 Fork tube runout check
A Snap-rings C Spring
B Valve D Spring seat

13 On all 1982 through 1986 models,

remove the snap-ring, oil lock valve, spring, seat and second snap-
ring from the left fork damper piston end (see illustration). Slide
the damper piston and rebound spring out of the top of the inner
tube.

Inspection
Refer to illustration 8.16 and 8.17
14 Clean all components with solvent and dry them with
compressed air.
15 Measure the free length of the fork springs and check them for
cracks and other damage. If the springs are sagged, or if defects
are noted, replace them with new ones. If the spring in one fork leg
must be replaced, always replace the spring in the other fork leg
also. 8.17 Check the copper surface does not show through the
16 Check the fork tubes and sliders for score marks, scratches, bushing coating over more than 3/4 of its area (left); back-up
flaking chrome and excessive or abnormal wear. With the fork tube ring check points (right)
supported on V-blocks, measure its runout and compare it to the
Specifications (see illustration). When using a dial indicator and
V-blocks to measure runout, divide the indicator reading by half. If damper piston groove before installing the seat. On 1100 Sabre
the tube is bent, do not try to straighten it. It must be replaced. models, the damper piston seat has a flat on its inside which must
17 Visually inspect the slider and fork tube bushings for score correspond with the flat on the end of the damper piston, and the
marks and scratches. If the Teflon coating is worn so that the cutout on its outer edge must align with the oil drain bolt in the side of
copper is visible over more than 3/4 of the bushing surface area, the slider.
replace them with new ones (see illustration). If it's necessary to 24 Mount the slider in the vise. Apply thread locking compound to the
replace the fork tube lower bushing, pry it apart at the slit and slide threads of the socket head bolt, install the bolt using a new sealing
it off. Make sure the new one seats properly. washer and tighten it to the specified torque. Again, if there is difficulty
18 Check the back-up ring for cracks and distortion (see in tightening the bolt, temporarily insert the fork spring, spacer and
illustration 8.17). fork cap to place pressure on the damper piston head and stop it
19 Inspect the damper piston rings; if they show signs of wear rotating.
replace them. Pry them apart gently at the split in the ring to free 25 Place the slider bushing over the fork tube and rest it on the slider.
them from their groove. To fit the bushing into its recess it will be necessary to use the Honda
20 Refer to Section 9 for information on the anti-dive unit fitted to service tool or devise an alternative tubular drift. The best method is
1982 through 1986 models. to use a length of tubing slightly larger in diameter than the fork tube.
Place a large plain washer against the bushing and then tap it home
Reassembly using the tube as a form of slide hammer (see illustration). Take
care not to scratch the tube during this operation; it is best to make
Refer to illustrations 8.25, 8.26 and 8.31 sure that the fork tube is pushed fully into the slider so that any
21 With the rebound spring in place on the damper piston, slide it accidental scoring is confined to the area above the seal.
down the fork tube so that its lower part protrudes from the bottom 26 Install the back-up ring. Dip the new seal in automatic transmission
of the tube. fluid (ATF), then slip it over the fork tube (with the marks up) and drive
22 On the left fork of 1982 through 1986 models, install the snap- it into position using the same method as for the slider bushing until
ring, spring seat, valve spring, oil lock valve and snap-ring on the the snap-ring groove is visible above the seal (see illustration).
lower part of the damper piston (see illustration 8.13); the snap- 27 Install the snap-ring with its radiused edge facing down. Be sure it
rings must engage the damper piston grooves. is properly seated in its groove. Note: Where plastic and foam rings
23 Place the damper piston seat on the end of the damper piston were found under the dust seal on disassembly, these need not be
and then slide the entire fork tube assembly into the slider. On reinstalled on 1100 models. Press the dust seal into position in the top
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models make sure the stop ring is of the slider.
in place in the 28 Mount the fork in the vise with the open end up and pour the
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-11

8.26 Cross-section of oil seal components in fork slider

8.25 Use a length of tubing to tap the bushing into the slider

9.4 Remove the four socket-head screws to free

housing from slider

cutouts on the inside of the cap must engage the tabs on the
damping adjuster. When set in the No. 1 damping position, the lug
on the fork cap bolt, punch mark on the damping adjuster and No.
1 on the cap should all be in alignment.
34 After installation pump the forks up and down to distribute the
8.31 Installing the damping adjuster rod on 1100 Sabres oil, check the anti-dive and damping adjuster settings and
pressurize the forks with air (where applicable).
specified amount of ATF into the fork tube (see Specifications),
noting that the amount differs for right and left forks on models 9 Anti-dive (TRAC) - removal and installation
with anti-dive.
29 On 1100 Sabre models a figure is given for fork oil level from 1 The left fork on 1982 through 1986 models incorporates a
the top of the fork tube. To check, hold the fork vertical and pass a Torque Reactive Anti-dive Control (TRAC) unit, which is designed
length of welding rod or straight rule down through the inner tube to lessen front fork compression during braking.
to measure the oil level. Add or remove oil until the level is correct. 2 If the forks are compressing excessively during braking, despite
30 Install the fork spring in the same direction as noted on adjustments to the anti-dive device, or if fork oil is leaking from
disassembly (on 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna models its around the housing, the anti-dive assembly should be removed
tapered end should face downwards, on 1100 Sabres the closely- and serviced.
wound coils should be at the bottom, on 700/750 Sabres, 1982
through 1984 700/750 Magnas and all 1100 Magnas the closely- 700/750 Sabres, 1100 Magnas and
would coils should be at the top). Install the spring seat and spacer
into the fork tube. 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas
31 Extend the fork fully and install the fork top bolt with a new O-ring. Refer to illustrations 9.4, 9.5, 9.6 and 9.12
Use the bolt to compress the spring enough to start the bolt into its
threads. On 1100 Sabre models, the shaped damping adjuster rod Removal
end must engage correctly with the cutout in the damper piston 3 If the forks are on the motorcycle, first remove the left brake
(see illustration). caliper and its bracket (see Chapter 7). For additional clearance,
32 Tighten the fork top bolt securely, leaving tightening to the also disconnect the speed sensor (750 Sabres) or speedometer
specified torque until it is firmly clamped in the triple clamps. cable (all other models) and secure it out of the way.
33 Install the forks in the triple clamps (see Section 7). When fitting 4 Remove the four socket head screws and separate the anti-dive
the plastic cap over the right fork top bolt on 1100 Sabre models, housing from the left fork (see illustration).
the
6-12 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

9.5 Anti-dive housing O-ring, piston and stop rubber 9.6 Anti-dive orifice valve (1), check valve (2) and pivot
bolt collar (3)
5 Remove the spring and large O-ring, and pull the piston out of the then remove the socket head screws and separate the anti-dive
housing (see illustration). housing from the left fork. Allow the fork oil to drain into the drain tray.
6 Remove the snap-rings that secure the rubber boots around the pivot Recover the coil spring.
bolt collar. Remove the boots, followed by the collar (see illustration). 15 Remove the snap-ring from the piston collar and slip the collar out
With the collar removed, the stop rubber will drop out. of the end of the piston. Remove the piston boot and withdraw the
7 On 1982 models remove the screws that retain the adjuster setting piston and its rubber washer from the inside of the housing (see
plate to the housing and lift off the plate. On 1983-on models remove illustration).
the snap-ring to release the adjuster setting plate. Withdraw the orifice 16 Unscrew the grub screw from the adjuster knob, and pull the knob
valve from the housing. off the orifice valve end. Remove the orifice valve from the fork slider.
8 Finally, remove the check valve setting screw, valve spring and 17 Finally, remove the check valve setting screw, valve spring and
check ball from the bottom of the housing. check ball from the bottom of the fork slider.

Inspection Inspection
9 Clean all of the metal parts in clean solvent and inspect them 18 See Steps 9 and 10.
carefully for wear or damage. If there is deep scoring in the piston bore,
replacement of the piston and housing will be necessary. Check the
Installation
orifice to make sure it is not damaged or clogged. If compressed air is 19 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
available, blow it out. Also use compressed air to blow out the following.
passages in the housing. a) Coat the piston and all seals with new fork oil (ATF).
10 The O-rings used on the piston, orifice and housing should all be b) Apply a thread locking compound to the housing screw threads
replaced as a matter of course whenever they are removed. prior to installing them.
11 Check the collar boots for hardening and damage. Replace them if c) When the housing has been installed on the fork slider, check that
necessary. the piston is able to move in and out without binding.
d) Refill the fork with the correct amount and type of new fork oil.
Installation e) Set the anti-dive adjuster to the preferred setting (see Section 14).
12 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following.
a) Coat the piston and all seals with new fork oil (ATF). 10 Steering stem - removal and installation
b) Apply a thread locking compound to housing screw threads prior to
installing them.
c) Apply silicon grease to the pivot collar prior to inserting it into place Removal
and ensure the boots are correctly installed (see illustration). 700/750 Sabre models
d) Following reassembly, move the collar back and forth to check the 1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
stroke of the piston; it should have 2.5 mm (0.10 in) of movement. 2 Remove the headlight and headlight housing (see Chapter 8).
e) Refill the fork with the correct amount and type of new fork oil. 3 Remove the instruments and, on early models, the odometer panel
f) Set the anti-dive adjuster to the preferred setting (see Section 14). (see Chapter 8).
4 Trace and disconnect the front turn signal wires, then remove the
1100 Sabres and 1985/86 700 Magnas two bolts which retain the headlight/turn signal mount bracket to the
Removal upper triple clamp.
5 Remove the handlebars and forks (see Sections 5 and 7), noting
Refer to illustration 9.15
that there is no need to disconnect the hydraulic hoses or wiring, just
13 If the forks are on the motorcycle, first remove the left brake caliper position the handlebars away from the triple clamp.
and its bracket (see Chapter 7). For additional clearance, also 6 Trace the wiring from the ignition (key) switch and disconnect it at
disconnect the speed sensor (Sabre) or speedometer cable (Magna) the block connector. Remove the two bolts on the underside of the
and secure it out of the way. switch and withdraw the switch from the upper triple clamp.
14 Have a drain tray on hand to catch the fork oil which will emerge, 7 Disconnect all wires from the horn terminals, then remove the
two
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-13

9.12 Install pivot collar boot and boot holder (snap-ring) as shown 9.15 Anti-dive unit components (1100 Sabres and
1985/86 700 Magnas)
bolts which retain the braking system three-way union to the lower
triple clamp. On 1982 and 1983 models, remove the turn signal angle 1 Housing 7 O-ring
sensor screws from the base of the steering stem and withdraw the 2 Socket-head screws 8 Boot
sensor; disconnect the wire connectors and withdraw the wiring from (4 off) 9 O-ring
the top of the stem. 8 Refer to Steps 53 through 56. 3 Piston 10 Spring
4 Collar 11 Seal
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models 5 Snap-ring 12 Oil drain plug and
9 Remove the main fuel tank, or if less than half full raise it on its 6 Rubber washer washer
support (see Chapter 4).
10 Remove the headlight and headlight housing (see Chapter 8).
11 Remove the instruments (see Chapter 8). 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
12 Remove the handlebars and forks (see Sections 5 and 7), noting 24 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
that there is no need to disconnect the hydraulic hoses or wiring, just 25 Remove the headlight and headlight housing (see Chapter 8).
position the handlebars away from the triple clamp. 26 Detach the instruments from the upper triple clamp (see Chapter 8).
13 Trace and disconnect the wiring from the front turn signals. Pull the speedometer cable through the hole in the lower triple clamp.
Remove the bolts which retain the headlamp brackets to the upper 27 Remove the handlebars and forks (see Sections 5 and 7). Note that
triple clamp and remove both brackets complete with the turn signals. there is no need to disconnect the wiring or the clutch hydraulic hose;
14 Trace the wiring from the ignition main (key) switch and disconnect just position the handlebars away from the triple clamp. The front brake
it at the block connector. Remove the two bolts on the underside of the hydraulic hose passes through a hole in the lower triple clamp, and
switch and withdraw the switch from the upper triple clamp. must be disconnected from the master cylinder and the hose passed
15 Remove the trim panel from the front of the lower triple clamp, and through the triple clamp and released from its guide (see Chapter 7 for
disconnect all wiring from the horn terminals. Remove the two nuts on hose disconnection).
the underside of the lower triple clamp and lift the braking system 28 Trace and disconnect the front turn signal wires and remove the
three-way union and horn assembly off the triple clamp. bolt which retains each light unit to the upper triple clamp.
16 Refer to Steps 53 through 56. 29 Refer to Steps 53 through 56.
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models 1100 Sabre models
17 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 30 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
18 Remove the headlight and headlight housing (see Chapter 8). 31 Remove the bolt on each side of the fusebox cover (just above the
19 Detach the instruments from the upper triple clamp (see Chapter horns) and pull the cover forward. Disconnect the wiring from the horns
8). and remove their mounting bolts to release them from the fusebox
20 Remove the handlebars and forks (see Sections 5 and 7), noting cover.
that there is no need to disconnect the hydraulic hoses or wiring, just 32 Remove the two screws from the front face of the fusebox, hinge
position the handlebars away from the triple clamp. the fuse mounting forward and disconnect the wiring connectors from
21 Remove the horns and the cover between them, which houses the the rear of the fusebox. Disconnect all wiring from the connector block
electrical connectors for the ignition main (key) switch, right and left frame and disconnect the connectors. Remove the two bolts which
handlebar switches. Disconnect the wiring connectors, then detach the retain the connector mounting bracket and braking system three-way
Honda trim panel from the front of the lower triple clamp. Remove the joint to the lower triple clamp.
two nuts from the underside of the brake hose three-way union, then 33 Remove the headlight and headlight housing (see Chapter 8).
detach the union and electrical connector backplate from the triple 34 Detach the instruments from the upper triple clamp (see Chapter 8).
clamp. 35 Remove the handlebars and forks (see Sections 5 and 7), noting
21 Trace and disconnect the wiring from the front turn signals. Remove that there is no need to disconnect the hydraulic hoses or wiring, just
the bolts which retain the headlamp brackets to the upper triple clamp position the handlebars away from the triple clamp.
and remove both brackets complete with the turn signals. 36 Remove the two screws which retain the fork air joint unions to the
22 Remove the two bolts on the underside of the ignition main (key) upper triple clamp.
switch and withdraw the switch from the upper triple clamp. 37 Remove its screws and detach the turn signal system angle sensor
23 Refer to Steps 53 through 56. and cancel unit from the base of the steering stem; disconnect
6-14 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

10.57 Work grease fully into the rollers or balls 10.61 The steering stem nut lockwasher tabs should be engaged in
the slots of the locknut and adjuster nut (arrows)
the cancel unit wires and withdraw the wiring from the top of the stem. The bottom one is the adjuster nut for setting bearing preload. The top
38 Trace and disconnect the wiring from the front turn signals. Remove nut tightens down against a lockwasher to secure the bottom nut.
the bolts which retain the headlamp brackets to the upper triple clamp 55 Knock the lockwasher tabs out of their slots in the upper nut, then
and remove both brackets complete with the turn signals. remove the nut, lockwasher and lower nut. Lift the dust cover off the
39 Remove the two bolts on the underside of the ignition main (key) top of the steering stem and lift the top bearing inner race out, then
switch and withdraw the switch from the upper triple clamp. lower the triple clamp and steering stem out of the frame. The top
40 Refer to Steps 53 through 56. bearing assembly will remain in the frame, while the bottom bearing
roller cage will come out with the stem.
1100 Magna models 56 Remove all traces of old grease from the bearings and races and
41 Remove the main fuel tank, or if less than half full raise it on its check them for wear or damage as described in Section 11. The
support (see Chapter 4). grease retainer and lower bearing race can be slid off the steering
42 Remove the single screw from the fusebox cover and remove the stem. Note: Do not attempt to remove the outer races from the frame or
cover. Detach the wiring from the back of the horns and remove the the lower inner race from the steering stem unless they are to be
central mounting bolt bracket to detach the horn assembly from the replaced.
motorcycle.
43 Remove the wiring connector box cover, ease the connector holder
frame out of position and disconnect all wiring connectors. Remove the Installation
two bolts from the back of the housing to release the housing from its Refer to illustrations 10.57 and 10.61
mounting bracket and thread the wire connector ends out of the 57 Pack the bearings with lithium-based grease by forcing it past the
housing to free it. rollers. This is done by pressing the bearing against some fresh
44 Remove the headlight and headlight housing (see Chapter 8). grease in the palm of the hand. In a scooping-type motion, continue to
45 Detach the instruments from the upper triple clamp (see Chapter 8). press the grease into the bearing until it comes out uniformly around
46 Remove the handlebars and forks (see Sections 5 and 7), noting the rollers and cage (see illustration). Coat the outer races with
that there is no need to disconnect the hydraulic hoses or wiring, just grease.
position the handlebars away from the triple clamp. 58 Carefully lift the steering stem into position and fit the-upper
47 Remove the two screws which retain the fork air joint unions to the bearing and inner race. Apply grease to the underside of the dust seal
upper triple clamp. and fit it to the steering stem. Install the slotted adjuster nut and
48 Remove its screws and detach the turn signal system angle sensor tighten it to the specified torque using the Honda tool (Part No. 07716-
from the base of the steering stem. Disconnect the wiring and withdraw 0020400 for all 700/750 Sabre models and 1982/83 750 Magna
it from the top of the stem. On 1985 and 1986 models, disconnect the models, or Part No. 07916-3710100 for 1984-on 700/750 Magna
wiring and withdraw the cancel unit. models and all 1100 models). Turn the steering stem lock-to-lock five
49 Remove the nuts which retain the brake hose three-way union to times to seat the bearings. Repeat the tightening and seating
the front of the lower triple clamp. Detach the union and the electrical sequence. Note: It is important to check the feel of the steering
connector box mounting bracket. afterwards as described below; if it is too tight re-adjust the bearings as
50 Trace and disconnect the wiring from the front turn signals. Remove described below.
the bolts which retain the headlamp brackets to the upper triple clamp 59 If the service tool is not available, tighten the adjuster nut hard
and remove both brackets complete with the turn signals. using a conventional C-wrench to preload the bearings then adjust as
51 Remove the two bolts on the underside of the ignition main (key) follows.
switch and withdraw the switch from the upper triple clamp. 60 Loosen the adjuster nut slightly until pressure is just released, then
52 Refer to Steps 53 through 56. turn it slowly clockwise until resistance is just evident. The object is to
set the adjuster nut so that the bearings are under a very light
All models loading, just enough to remove any freeplay. Caution: Take great
53 Remove the steering stem nut and, where fitted, the plain washer. care not to apply excessive pressure because this will cause
Also remove the steering stem pinch bolt on 1100 models. Lift off the premature failure of the bearings.
upper triple clamp. 61 Install a new tab lock washer with two opposite tabs turned down
54 Two slotted nuts are used to secure the stem to the frame head. in the adjuster nut slots. Holding the adjuster nut still, hand tighten the
top locknut down firmly against it, then tighten it more, but only until
the washer tabs align with the slots in the locknut (no more than 90°).
If the tabs don't line up, remove the top nut, turn it over and reinstall
it.
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-15

11.7 Work the lower bearing race and dust seal (arrow) off the
stem if it needs replacing

components both upper and lower bearing assemblies must be

11.6 Drawbolt arrangement for installing steering head replaced as a set.
bearing outer races
1 Long bolt or threaded bar Replacement
2 Thick washer 3 Guide for lower Refer to illustrations 11.6 and 11.7
outer race 4 The outer races are an interference fit in the steering head and can
Once the tabs are lined up and the be tapped from position with a suitable drift. Tap firmly and evenly
nut is tight, bend two opposite tabs up into the locknut slots (see around each race to ensure that it is driven out squarely. It may prove
illustration). advantageous to curve the end of the drift slightly to improve access.
62 Place the upper triple clamp into position and install the steering 5 Alternatively, the races can be removed using a slide-hammer type
stem washer (where fitted) and nut loosely. Temporarily fit the fork bearing extractor; these can often be rented from tool shops.
legs to align the triple clamps, then tighten the steering stem top nut, 6 The new races can be pressed into the head using a drawbolt
and pinch bolt on 1100 models, to the specified torque. arrangement, or by using a large diameter tubular drift which bears
63 Installation is basically the reverse of the removal procedure with only on the outer edge of the race (see illustration). Ensure that the
the following notes: drawbolt washer or drift (as applicable) bears only on the outer edge of
the race and does not contact the race bearing surface.
a) Do not tighten the steering stem nut until after the fork tubes have
7 To remove the lower bearing from the steering stem, use two
been inserted through both triple clamps. This will ensure that they
screwdrivers placed on opposite sides of the race to work it free (see
are properly aligned.
illustration).
b) Be sure to route all cables and wiring harnesses in their original
8 With the lower bearing removed, lift off the dust seal. Inspect the seal
positions. In particular on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, the
for wear or damage and replace it if necessary.
front brake hydraulic hose and speedometer cable must pass
9 Install the dust seal and slide on the new lower bearing. A length of
through the holes in the lower triple clamp.
tubing with an internal diameter slightly larger than the steering stem
c) Refer to the appropriate Sections or Chapters for reinstallation of
will be needed to tap the new race into position. Ensure that the drift
the various components. Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram at
bears only on the inner edge of the race and does not contact the
the end of this manual if in doubt about reconnecting any wiring.
bearing surface.
64 Check that the steering head bearings are correctly adjusted as 10 Slide the grease retainer onto the steering stem and install the
soon as the forks and front wheel are installed (see Chapter 1). steering stem as described in Section 10.
65 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models top up and bleed the
front brake hydraulic system (see Chapter 7). On all models, check the
operation of the brakes, suspension and controls before riding the
12 Rear shock absorber(s) - removal and installation
machine.

11 Steering head bearings - inspection and 700/750 Sabre models

Removal
replacement Inspection Refer to illustration 12.7
1 Place the motorcycle on its center stand.
1 Remove the steering stem as described in Section 10. 2 Remove the seat and both side covers. Disconnect the battery
2 Remove all traces of old grease from the bearings and races and (negative lead first). The shock absorber is removed from the top of the
check them for wear or damage. The bearings will either be of the frame and removal of the toolbox and certain electrical components is
caged ball or caged tapered roller type, depending on the model. necessary to provide access.
3 The ball or roller bearing tracks of the races should be polished and 3 Disconnect and remove the regulator/rectifier unit, disconnect the
free from indentations. Inspect the ball or roller bearings for signs of fusebox and turn signal cancel unit wiring and pull off the coolant
wear, damage or discoloration, and examine their retainer cage for reservoir tank overflow/breather tube. Remove the single mounting
signs of cracks or splits. If there are signs of wear on any of the above screw from inside the toolbox, then slide the toolbox out together with
the fusebox and cancel unit.
6-16 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

4 Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.

5 Remove the shock absorber upper mounting bolt, then withdraw
the shock out through the top of the frame.
6 Due to the complexity of the shock and the special tools needed
to service it, it should be taken to a Honda dealer or other qualified
shop for repair.
7 If the rubber boot needs replacing, it is removed by simply pulling
it over the lower part of the shock. Install a new one in the same
way. To inspect for oil leakage from the shock, pull the boot down
and inspect along the seal, which will now be exposed (see
illustration).
8 Inspect the bushings in the upper and lower mountings for wear.
Press them out and install new ones using a drawbolt tool.
Installation
9 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following:
a) Apply molybdenum-disulfide grease to the bushings at both the
upper and lower mounting positions. Install the collar in the top
mounting bushing and fit the dust seal and washer to each side of
it. 12.7 The shock oil seal (arrow) can be checked for leakage after
b) Secure the upper and lower mounting bolt nuts loosely, then sliding the dust boot down
tighten them to the specified torque when the suspension is in the
normal working position.
c) Connect the negative lead last when reconnecting the battery. b) Secure the upper and lower mounting bolt nuts loosely, then
d) Check the shock air pressure (see Section 14). tighten them to the specified torque when the suspension is in the
normal working position.
1100 Sabre models c) Connect the negative lead last when reconnecting the battery.
d) Check the shock air pressure and set the damping adjustment
Removal (see Section 14).
10 Place the motorcycle on its main stand.
11 Remove the seat and both side covers. Disconnect the battery Magna models
(negative lead first) and remove it from its case. The shock
Note: Remove only one shock at a time so that the rear of the
absorber is removed from the top of the frame and removal of the
motorcycle does not drop. If both shock absorbers need to be
toolbox and certain electrical components is necessary to provide
removed at the same time, the rear of the machine can be kept in
access.
position by placing a block of wood between the top of the rear tire and the
12 Disconnect the wiring from the spark units, stop and taillight
inside of the rear fender.
sensor, regulator/rectifier unit, fuel pump and starter relay, then
remove these components from the motorcycle (see the Removal
appropriate sections of Chapters 4, 5 and 8 for details). Disconnect
21 Place the motorcycle on its center stand. On models without a
the alternator wiring at the block connector.
center stand, place a jack with wood block under the crankcase to
13 Unlock the toolbox cover to free the shock air valve from its
raise the rear wheel off the ground; ensure that the motorcycle is
clamp. Remove its mounting screws and remove the
securely supported.
toolbox/battery housing.
22 Adjust shock preload to its softest position (see Section 14).
14 Disconnect the shock damping adjuster control knob from its
23 To gain access to the upper mounting on 1100 models,
frame mounting lug by loosening the nut on the rear of the knob,
remove the seat (see Section 19) and the grab rail. If removing
then disconnect the damping adjuster cable from the top of the
the left shock on 1100 models, remove the exhaust muffler
shock; remove the cotter pin to free the cable end, then loosen the
(silencer) from the left side (see Chapter 4).
locknut to detach the cable from its bracket.
24 On later 700/750 models pry the cap off the upper mounting
15 Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
nut. On all models, remove the upper mounting nut and lower
16 Remove the shock absorber upper mounting bolt, then
mounting nut or bolt.
withdraw the shock out through the top of the frame.
25 Remove the shock absorber.
17 All shock absorber components are available separately.
26 All shock absorber components are available separately.
However, disassembly requires the use of a suitable spring
However, disassembly requires the use of a suitable spring
compressor and certain Honda special tools. It is therefore
compressor. It is therefore recommended that the unit be taken to
recommended that the unit be taken to a Honda dealer who will
a Honda dealer who will have the necessary service tools to
have the necessary service tools to dismantle it.
dismantle it. A figure is given in the Specifications section of this
18 If the rubber boot needs replacing, release its wire retaining clip
Chapter for spring free length service limit. Note: Shock absorbers
and pull it off the lower part of the shock. Install a new one in the
should be replaced as a pair, otherwise uneven handling will result.
same way. To inspect for oil leakage from the shock, pull the boot
27 Inspect the bushings in the mounting eyes for wear. Press the
down and inspect along the seal, which will now be exposed (see
old bushings out and install new ones using a drawbolt tool.
illustration 12.7).
19 Inspect the bushings in the upper mounting for wear. Press the Installation
old bushing out and install a new one using a drawbolt tool. The 28 Installation of the shock absorber is the reverse of removal,
lower bearing is part of the suspension linkage and can be
noting the following:
inspected as described in the next Section.
a) Secure the shock absorber mounting nuts/bolts finger-tight on
Installation installation, then tighten them to the specified torque when the
20 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the suspension is in its normal position.
following: a) Apply molybdenum-disulfide grease to the upper b) Adjust the shock absorber spring preload to your preferred level
(see Section 14).
mounting
bushing. Install the collar and fit the dust seal and washer to each
side of it.
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-17

13.4 Shock linkage-to-swingarm bolts (arrows) on 13.15a Shock absorber linkage (700/750 Sabres)
700/750 Sabres
1 Shock links
2 Shock link-to-frame bolts
3 Shock link-to-shock arm bolts
13 Rear shock absorber linkage (Sabre models) - 4 Shock arm
removal, inspection and installation 5 Shock arm-to-swingarm bolts
6 Shock absorber mounting
Removal
700/750 models 13.15b Shock absorber linkage (1100 Sabres)
Refer to illustration 13.4
1 Place the motorcycle on its center stand.
2 Remove the mufflers (silencers) to provide improved access
to the linkage through-bolts (see Chapter 4).
3 Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
4 Remove the bolts that retain the shock linkage to the
swingarm (see illustration).
5 Remove the bolts that retain the shock linkage to the frame
and lift out the linkage.
6 Remove the two pivot bolts to separate the shock arm from the
shock link.
1100 models
7 Place the motorcycle on its center stand.
8 Remove the mufflers (silencers) to provide improved access to
the linkage through-bolts (see Chapter 4).
9 Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
10 Remove the shock arm-to-swingarm bolt.
11 Remove the shock link-to-frame bolt and lower the linkage
from the motorcycle.
12 Remove the pivot bolt to separate the shock link from the
shock arm.
1 Shock link
Inspection 2 Shock link-to-frame bolt
3 Shock link-to-shock arm bolt
Refer to illustrations 13.15a and 13.15b
4 Shock arm
13 Thoroughly clean all components, removing all traces of dirt,
5 Shock arm-to-shock absorber bolt
corrosion and grease.
6 Shock arm-to-swingarm bolt
14 Inspect all components closely, looking for obvious signs of
wear such as heavy scoring, or for damage such as cracks or
distortion.
15 Pull the dust caps off to reveal the bearing or bushings in each
pivot. Depending on the model, either plain bushings or needle
roller bearings and inner sleeves will be fitted (see illustrations). engineering works or some other supplier. The bolt or rod should
On 1100 models, the shock absorber lower pivot on the shock arm be about one inch longer than the combined length of either link,
is of the bonded-rubber type. and one bearing. Also required are suitable nuts and two large and
16 If the bearings or bushings are worn, check first with a Honda robust washers having a larger outside diameter than the bearing
dealer whether they are available separately from the shock link or housing. In the case of the threaded rod, fit one nut to one end of
shock arm. Removal and installation should be done using a the rod and stake it in place for convenience.
drawbolt tool to prevent damage to the housing and new 18 Fit one of the washers over the bolt or rod so that it rests
bearing/bushing. against the head, then pass the assembly through the relevant
17 Obtain a long bolt or a length of threaded rod from a local b O th
6-18 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

projecting end place the bearing/bushing, which should be greased to Anti-dive (TRAC) setting - 1982 through 1986 models
ease installation, followed by the remaining washer and nut. 8 Anti-dive force is adjusted by the slotted head adjuster set in the side
19 Holding the bearing/bushing to ensure that it is kept square, slowly of the anti-dive housing (700/750 Sabres, 1100 Magnas and 1982
tighten the nut so that it is drawn into its bore. through 1984 700/750 Magnas) or by the knob on the front of the fork
20 Lubricate all bearings and inner sleeves and bushings with slider (1100 Sabres and 1985/86 700 Magnas).
molybdenum-disulfide grease. Fit the dust caps. 9 Four settings are available. Honda describes position 1 as giving
light anti-dive, position 2 medium, position 3 hard, and position 4
Installation maximum anti-dive. Rotate the adjuster to make the adjustment,
21 If the shock arm and shock link were separated, install their pivot ensuring the chosen position aligns exactly with the index mark.
bolt(s), but secure only finger-tight at this stage. Couple the linkage up
to the frame and swingarm, then tighten the pivot bolts in the following Rear shock absorber
order:
Spring preload - all Magna models
700/750 models 10 Adjust using the hooked C-wrench supplied in the motorcycle's
Shock link-to-frame bolts Shock tool kit. The shocks have five preload positions, I, II, III, IV, V. Position
absorber lower mounting bolt Shock is for light loading, whereas spring preload is increased in stages from
link-to-shock arm bolts Shock arm-to- 11 through V.
swingarm bolts 11 Hook the wrench into the holes in the spring lower seat and rotate
the seat to the required position. Note: Always set each shock to the
1100 models
same position.
Shock link-to-frame bolt
Shock arm-to-swingarm bolt Rebound and compression damping - 1100 Magna
Shock link-to-shock arm bolt models
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt 12 Adjust rebound damping by rotating the stepped wheel at the top
22 Install all other components in a reverse of the removal procedure of each unit to one of the four positions. Two compression damping
and check the operation of the rear suspension before riding the positions are available, adjusted via the small knob just below the
motorcycle. spring lower seat.
13 In each case damping is increased the higher the number
selected. It is essential that each shock is set to the same positions
14 Suspension - and that the rebound and compression positions suit the load carried
and riding style (see below).
Rebound Compression Load/riding style
adjustments Front forks
1 1 Solo/ordinary road use
Caution: Always ensure that both front fork settings are the same. 2 1 Solo/highway or winding road use
Uneven settings will upset the handling of the machine and could 3 1 Solo/rough road use
cause it to become unstable. 2 2 Solo or pillion/ordinary road use
3 2 Solo with pillion or load/highway or
Air pressure - 1982 through 1986 models
winding road use
1 On 700/750 models each fork top bolt incorporates an air valve. On 4 2 Solo with pillion or load/rough
1100 models, the fork tubes are linked by an air joint pipe so that air road use
pressure is balanced equally between each fork; the air valve is
located in the left fork air joint on Magnas and in the left fork top bolt on Air pressure - Sabre models
Sabres. 14 On 700/750 models remove the seat to gain access to the air
2 Check the air pressure when the motorcycle is cold, i.e. not valve set in the top of the shock body. On 1100 models, the shock
immediately after it has been ridden. Place the motorcycle on the body is linked to a remote air valve by a short hose; the air valye is
center stand and remove the cap from the air valve(s). clamped to the toolbox cover under the right side cover.
3 To check the air pressure accurately you will need a finely-calibrated 15 Remove the cap from the air valve and check the pressure. Note;
gauge suitable for reading low pressures, such as those supplied The shock must be cold for this check, i.e. do not check after the
specifically for suspension systems; a tire pressure gauge is motorcycle has just been ridden.
unsuitable. A low pressure pump will also be needed so that air 16 Adjust the air pressure within the range given in the
pressure can be applied in very small amounts; do not use a Specifications section of this Chapter, noting that air pressure should
compressor-powered air line because there is a risk of exceeding the be dependent on damping setting and load carried (see Step 19).
maximum safe pressure and damaging the fork seals.
4 Set the pressure within the specified range (see Specifications), Rebound damping - Sabre models
noting that on 700/750 models the pressure must be identical in each 17 On 700/750 models remove the seat to gain access to the
fork otherwise uneven handling will result. damping adjuster lever. It is situated on the top of the shock body,
5 Install the valve cap when adjustment is complete. just above the air valve. Position 1 is with the lever pushed fully in,
position 2 is out to the first notch, and position 3 out a further notch.
Rebound damping - 1100 Sabre only 18 On 1100 models the rebound damping adjuster knob is situated
6 Rebound damping is controlled by a knob at the top of the right fork at the top of the frame, under the right side cover. A short cable links
which is linked to the fork damper piston by a slim rod. Three damping the control knob to the top of the shock absorber.
positions are available. 19 Three settings are provided; Honda describes position 1 as being
7 Perform damping adjustment after checking air pressure. The current suitable for general or around town riding, position 2 for highway or
setting is denoted by the number of the knob which aligns with the lug winding road riding, and position 3 for rough road riding. The
on the fork top bolt. Honda describes position 1 as being suitable for damping setting should be associated with rider load and shock air
general or around town riding, position 2 for highway or winding road pressure, i.e. position 1 would suit rider-only load and no air
riding, and position 3 for rough road riding. Rotate the adjuster to make pressure or low air pressure, whereas position 3 would suit
adjustment, aligning the selected position with the top bolt lug. maximum load and high or maximum air pressure.
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-19

16.6 Pry off caps for access to swingarm pivots 16.7a Right pivot bolt is secured by locknut (arrow)

15 Swingarm bearings - check

1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).

2 On Magna models remove both shock absorbers (see Section
12). On Sabre models remove the shock linkage-to-swingarm
bolt(s). If the mufflers (silencers) do not leave enough clearance to
remove these bolts, remove the lower shock absorber bolt and
pivot the swingarm down to provide clearance.
3 Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one hand and place your
other hand at the junction of the swingarm and the frame. Try to
move the rear of the swingarm from side-to-side. Any wear (play)
in the bearings should be felt as movement between the swingarm
and the frame at the front. The swingarm will actually be felt to
move forward and backward at the front (not from side-to-side). If
any play is noted, the bearings should be replaced (see Section
17).
4 Next, move the swingarm up and down through its full travel. It
should move freely, without any binding or rough spots. If it does
not move freely, refer to Section 17 for servicing procedures.

16.7b A tool can be fabricated from a piece of tubing to engage

slots of the locknut; be sure it's strong enough for the 16 Swingarm - removal and installation
specified torque
16.7c Pivot bolts can be unscrewed with large socket wrench Removal
Refer to illustrations 16.6, 16.7a, 16.7b and 16.7c
1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
2 Remove the final drive unit and driveshaft (see Section 18).
3 On Magnas, remove the shock absorber lower mounting nut/bolt
on each side (see Section 12).
4 On Sabres, remove the shock absorber lower bolt. Then remove
the bolt(s) that retain the shock linkage to the swingarm and lower
the linkage.
5 Detach the brake backplate (early 700/750 models) or torque
arm (other models) from the swingarm.
6 Pry off the swingarm pivot caps on both sides (see
illustration).
7 Remove the pivot bolt locknut on the right side, using the Honda
service tool (Part No. 07908-4690001) or fabricate a tool to fit the
nut slots from a piece of tubing (see illustrations). Use of the
service tool is advised because it provides a means of securing the
locknut to the correct torque on installation.
8 Once the locknut is removed, use a socket wrench to remove
first the right and then the left pivot bolts.
9 Lift the swingarm out and remove the rubber boot from its front.
(Alien key) or hexagon adapter Note: If there is insufficient clearance on Sabre models to remove the
swingarm, remove the upper shock absorber bolt and have an assistant
raise the shock and hold it tightly against its frame bracket. This should
6-20 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

17.5 Swingarm bearings 18.3 Final drive unit oil drain plug (arrow)

1 Dust seal 3 Bearing outer race

2 Bearing inner race should always be replaced with new ones. The bearings can then be
lifted out (see illustration).
provide enough clearance to carefully remove the swingarm between 6 Clean the bearings with solvent and wipe the outer race, still in the
the lower part of the shock and the center stand. swingarm, clean. Carefully inspect both the bearing rollers and the
10 Refer to the following Section for bearing replacement. race surface for scoring or signs of heat seizure. If either the bearing
or race exhibits these characteristics, both must be replaced with new
Installation ones.
11 Ensure the boot is in position on the front of the swingarm (on 1100 7 A slide hammer with an internally expanding attachment is need to
models, its tab with the UP marking must be positioned accordingly). draw the outer races from the swingarm. If not available have a
Position the swingarm in the frame and install both pivot bolts loosely. Honda dealer remove the outer races and install the new ones using
Tighten the left pivot bolt to its specified torque. the correct service tools. New grease retainers should be installed
12 Tighten the right pivot bolt to its specified torque, then loosen it and before driving the outer races into the swingarm.
retighten it to its specified torque. Next, move the swingarm up and 8 Prior to installation, pack a liberal amount of bearing grease into the
down several times and recheck that the right pivot bolt is still tightened bearing, as well as into the bearing cavity and around the outer race.
to its proper torque value. 9 Working on one side at a time, insert the bearing into place and
13 Install the right pivot bolt locknut, tightening it finger-tight. Install the then install the new seal using a suitable size socket to tap it gently
Honda service tool specified for removal of the nut, hold the pivot bolt into place. The top of the seal should be flush with the swingarm
in position with the socket wrench (Alien key) and tighten the locknut to surface. Do not try to seat the seal against the bearing.
the specified torque using a torque wrench on the service tool handle. 10 Finally, apply grease to the inner lips of the seals and install the
Note: It is important not to disturb the pivot bolt position while the swingarm.
locknut is tightened.
14 Install the remaining components in a reverse of the dismantling 18 Final drive unit and driveshaft - removal, inspection and
procedure, taking note of the torque settings in this Chapter and
Chapter 7. On 1100 models ensure that the brake hose is well secured
installation
with the clips on the swingarm.
15 Check the operation of the rear suspension before riding the Removal
motorcycle. Refer to illustrations 18.3 and 18.5
1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
17 Swingarm - inspection and bearing replacement 2 On Magna models, remove the left shock absorber (see Section
12).
3 Remove the final drive unit drain plug and allow the oil to drain into
Inspection a suitable container (see illustration).
1 Thoroughly clean all components, removing all traces of dirt, 4 Position a drain tray below the final drive-to-swingarm joint to catch
corrosion and grease. any oil that escapes from the driveshaft damper case. Remove the
2 Inspect all components closely, looking for obvious signs of wear three nuts that retain the final drive unit to the swingarm, then
such as heavy scoring, and cracks or distortion due to accident carefully withdraw the unit and driveshaft from the swingarm. This is
damage. Any damaged or worn component must be replaced. made easier by supporting the swingarm at an angle parallel with the
3 If the painted finish of the swingarm has deteriorated it is worth taking ground.
the opportunity to repaint the affected area, ensuring that the surface is 5 If the driveshaft remains in the swingarm when the final drive unit is
correctly prepared beforehand. removed, simply pull it out. Note: A snap-ring was fitted to the damper
cam splines at the manufacturing stage to aid production, and if not
Bearing replacement already removed, will prevent separation of the final drive unit and
Refer to illustration 17.5 driveshaft by normal means. If this occurs, install the rear axle
4 With the seals still in place, gently spin the bearings with your finger, through the final drive unit and mount the axle in a vise equipped with
checking for any roughness or noise. These signs indicate the bearings wood or soft jaws so that the drive unit uppermost. With the drive unit
securely held, revolve the driveshaft in a circular motion while pulling
need to be replaced with new ones.
it off the drive unit (see illustration). This action will serve to
5 Pry the seals out from both ends. Once removed, these seals
compress the
 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive 6-21

18.5 Driveshaft disconnection from final drive unit may require 18.10 Final drive unit ring gear backlash measurement
special technique if snap-ring is fitted to shaft end

swingarm faces perfectly joined, install the three nuts and secure them
snap-ring sufficiently to allow separation of the driveshaft and final lightly; tighten to the specified torque after the rear wheel axle has
drive internal splines. Note: The snap-ring is not needed for reassembly. been installed.
14 Install all other components in a reverse of the removal procedure,
Inspection noting the following:
Refer to illustration 18.10 a) Tighten all fasteners to the specified torques, noting that the three
6 The final drive unit should not require any attention provided the oil final drive unit-to-swingarm nuts can be torqued after the rear axle is
level has been checked regularly and the oil replaced according to the installed.
maintenance schedule. If there are signs of oil leakage and the oil b) Refill the final drive unit with the correct type and amount of oil
level has dropped significantly, oil seal replacement is required. (see Chapter 1).
7 Rotate the pinion gear shaft (the one that meshes with the
driveshaft) by hand. The ring gear splines (which mesh with the rear
wheel stub) should rotate smoothly. If rotation feels rough or jerky or if 19 Bodywork and seat - removal and installation Main
it is noisy, have the final drive overhauled by a Honda dealer.
8 The final drive unit requires special tools to disassemble and setup
correctly, plus a degree of expertise to carry out gear tooth contact side covers
pattern checks. Similarly, disassembly of the driveshaft damper 1 The side covers have three plastic pegs on their inner faces which
requires special tools and it is recommended that both assemblies by locate in grommets set in the frame. Ease the cover pegs out of their
entrusted to a Honda dealer for overhaul. grommets to remove the cover.
9 It is possible to measure gear backlash if a dial test indicator is
available. To do so, set the final drive unit on blocks so that access is Belly fairing - 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna
available to the ring gear from underneath.
10 Remove the oil filler plug and set up a dial gauge so that the tip is models
against the face of one of the ring gear teeth (see illustration). Turn Refer to illustrations 19.2a, 19.2b and 19.2c
the ring gear by hand to take up any play in the gears, set the gauge 2 The belly fairing is retained by four screws to the motorcycle's frame,
to zero and turn the ring gear gently to measure the backlash. It is two on each side (see illustrations). Each rear side section is
recommended that this measurement be taken at 120° intervals on the
ring gear.
11 Backlash should not exceed 0.3 mm (0.012 in) and all three
readings should not differ by more than 0.1 mm (0.004 in).

Installation
12 Hold the driveshaft vertical, with its damper end uppermost and fill
the damper housing with the specified amount and type of oil. Install
the short coil spring in the end of the driveshaft and keeping the
driveshaft upright, install the final drive unit on its end so that the
driveshaft and final drive splines fully engage. Mesh the components
together carefully to avoid damaging the damper oil seal. Note: Later
models may have a small hole in the final drive unit splined collar - if so,
rotate the collar so that the hole is upwards (as installed on the
motorcycle).
13 Hold the driveshaft and final drive unit firmly together to prevent oil
loss from the damper, and install the assembly into the swingarm so
that the splines on the front end of the driveshaft fully engage those of
the gearcase output shaft. Note: Positioning the universal joint so that
the front end of the driveshaft is horizontally aligned will help it engage
the gearcase output shaft squarely. With the final drive unit and 19.2a Belly fairing front section is retained by screw at front...
6-22 Chapter 6 Frame, suspension and final drive

19.2b ... and at rear on each side 19.2c Rear section mounting screw
retained by a single screw at the rear; the front mounting is held by Seat
the main section rear screws (see illustration).
6 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas, the two-piece seat is
retained by two bolts just beneath the seat strap buckles and a
Front fender single bolt to the rear fender (mudguard).
3 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 7). 7 On 1100 Sabre models, remove the side covers to access the
4 From the inside of the front fender, remove the four bolts two seat mounting bolts.
which retain it to the fork brace or fork slider (as applicable). 8 On all other models release the seat lock and disengage the
5 Installation is a reverse of removal, noting that any hose or seat prongs from the frame (the seat lock is set in the grab rail on
cable guides must be returned to their original locations. later Magna models). From 1984 a two-part seat is fitted to
700/750 Magna models.
 7-1

Chapter 7
Brakes, wheels and tires
Note: Unless specifically mentioned in this Chapter, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987 and
1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Contents
Sect/on 15
Brake fluid level check..................................................... See General information........................................................................
Chapter 1 1
Brake hoses - inspection and replacement................................... Rear brake caliper (1100 models) - removal,
10 overhaul
Brake pad/lining wear check........................................... See and installation..........................................................................
Chapter 1 7
Brake system bleeding...................................................................
11
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation................
3
Front brake disc(s) - inspection, removal and installation..............
4
Front brake master cylinder - removal,
overhaul
and installation..........................................................................
5
Front brake pads - replacement.....................................................
2
Front wheel - removal and installation...........................................
 Section
Rear brake disc (1100 models) - inspection, removal
and installation..........................................................................
8
Rear brake master cylinder (1100 models) - removal,
overhaul
and installation..........................................................................
9
Rear brake pads (1100 models) - replacement..............................
6
Rear drum brake (700/750 models) - removal,
inspection
and installation..........................................................................
12
Rear wheel - removal and installation............................................
16
Tires and wheels - general check.................................... See
Chapter 1
Tubeless tires - general information...............................................
18
Wheels - alignment check..............................................................
14
Wheels - inspection and repair......................................................
13
Wheel bearings - removal, inspection and installation...................
17
7-2 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

Specifications

Disc brakes
Brake fluid type........................................................................................ See Chapter 1
Disc thickness (front brake)
New
1986 700 Magna model................................................................ 4.5 to 5.2 mm (0.18 to 0.20 in)
All other models............................................................................ 4.8 to 5.2 mm (0.19 to 0.20 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 4.0 mm (0.20 in)
Disc thickness (rear brake)
New
1986 1100 Magna model.............................................................. 7.1 to 7.7 mm (0.280 to 0.303 in)
Other 1100 models....................................................................... 6.9 to 7.1 mm (0.272 to 0.280 in)
Service limit
1986 1100 Magna model.............................................................. 6.6 mm (0.26 in)
Other 1100 models....................................................................... 6.0 mm (0.24 in)
Disc maximum runout.............................................................................. 0.3 mm (0.012 in)
Caliper bore ID
Front (700/750 models)
New............................................................................................... 30.23 to 30.28 mm (1.1902 to 1.1921 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 30.29 mm (1.1925 in)
Front (1100 models)
New............................................................................................... 32.03 to 32.08 mm (1.2610 to 1.2630 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 32.09 mm (1.263 in)
Rear (1100 models)
New............................................................................................... 30.23 to 30.28 mm (1.1902 to 1.1921 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 30.29 mm (1.193 in)
Caliper piston OD
Front (700/750 models)
New............................................................................................... 30.148 to 30.198 mm (1.1869 to 1.1889 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 30.14 mm (1.1866 in)
Front (1100 models)
New............................................................................................... 31.948 to 31.998 mm (1.2578 to 1.2598 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 31.94 mm (1.258 in)
Rear (1100 models)
New............................................................................................... 30.148 to 30.198 mm (1.1869 to 1.1889 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 38.090 mm (1.500 in)
Front master cylinder bore ID
1982 through 1986 models
New............................................................................................... 15.870 to 15.913 mm (0.6248 to 0.6265 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 15.93 mm (0.6272 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 models
New............................................................................................... 12.700 to 12.743 mm (0.500 to 0.5016 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 12.755 mm (0.502 in)
Front master cylinder piston OD
1982 through 1986 models
New............................................................................................... 15.827 to 15.854 mm (0.6231 to 0.6242 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 15.82 mm (0.6228 in)
1987 and 1988 700/750 models
New............................................................................................... 12.657 to 12.684 mm (0.498 to 0.499 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 12.645 mm (0.498 in)
Rear master cylinder bore ID (1100 models)
New.................................................................................................... 14.000 to 14.043 mm (0.5512 to 0.5529 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 14.06 mm (0.553 in)
Rear master piston OD (1100 models)
New.................................................................................................... 13.957 to 13.984 mm (0.5495 to 0.5506 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 13.95 mm (0.549 in)
Drum brake
Brake shoe lining thickness
New.................................................................................................... 4.9 to 5.0 mm (0.19 to 0.20 in)
Service limit........................................................................................ 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Brake drum ID
1985-on Magna models
New............................................................................................... 180.0 to 180.3 mm (7.09 to 7.10 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 181 mm (7.13 in)
All other models
New............................................................................................... 160.0 to 160.3 mm (6.30 to 6.31 in)
Service limit................................................................................... 161 mm (6.34 in)
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-3

Wheels
Maximum wheel runout (front and rear) Axial (side-to-
side).............................................................................. 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Radial (out-of-round).......................................................................... 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Maximum axle runout (front and rear)..................................................... 0.2 mm (0.01 in)

Tires
Tire pressures.......................................................................................... See Chapter 1
Tire sizes
Front................................................................................................... 120/60VR17or120/60ZR17
Rear.................................................................................................... 160/60 VR 17 or 160/60
ZR 17

Torque settings Nm ft-

lbs
Brake caliper-to-bracket bolts All Sabre models and 1982 through
1984 700/750 Magna models
Upper bolt..................................................................................... 25 to 30 18 to
22
Lower bolt..................................................................................... 20 to 25 14 to
18
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models
Upper bolt..................................................................................... 30 to 40 22 to
29
Lower bolt..................................................................................... 20 to 25 14 to
18
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models............................................ 25 to 30 18 to
22
1100.Magna models........................................................................... Not available
Front brake caliper bracket-to-fork slider
bolts Upper bolt (to slider lug)
All Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models........ 30 to 40 22 to
29
1100 Magna and 1985/86700 Magna models............................. 30 to 45 22 to
33
Lower bolt (to anti-dive unit)
1100 Sabre models....................................................................... 10 to 14 7 to 10
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models....................................... 30 to 45 22 to
33
Brake disc retaining bolts
1100 Sabre, 1983 through 1985 1100 Magna, 1982 through
1986 700/750 models ........................................................................ 25 to 30 18 to
22
1986 1100 Magna, 1987 and 1988 700/750 models ......................... 37 to 43 27 to
31
Front master cylinder clamp bolts (1100 models)................................... 10 to 14 7 to 10
Brake hose banjo bolts
1985 and 1986 700 Magna and 1986 1100 Magna models .............. 37 to 43 27 to
31
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 25 to 40 18 to
29
All other models ................................................................................. 25 to 35 18 to
25
Rear drum brake lever pinch bolt............................................................ 24 to 30 17 to
22
Front wheel axle/axle nut......................................................................... 55 to 65 40 to
47
Front wheel axle pinch bolt(s) or nuts
700/750 Sabre models....................................................................... 18 to 28 13 to
20
1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models...................................... 15 to 25 11 to
18
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models.................................................... 20 to 30 14 to
22
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models ............................................ 18 to 25 13 to
18
1100 Sabre models............................................................................ 20 to 30 14 to
22
1100 Magna models........................................................................... 18 to 30 13 to
22
Rear wheel axle nut
1985-on 700/750 Magna models....................................................... 85 to 105 61 to
76
All other 700/750 models................................................................... 60 to 80 43 to
58
1986 1100 Magna model................................................................... 80 to 100 58 to
72
All other 1100 models ........................................................................ 85 to 105 61 to
76
Rear wheel axle pinch bolt...................................................................... 20 to 30 14 to
22
Brake panel stop bolt.............................................................................. 35 to 45 25 to
33
Brake panel-to-torque arm bolt............................................................... 15 to 25 11 to
18
Final driven flange bolts (1983-on 700/750 Sabre models)..................... 50 to 60 36 to
43
7-4 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

2.1 a Caliper body-to-bracket mounting bolts (arrows) on 2.1b ... and on left side (arrows)
right side ...

2.2a Remove the pad pin retainer plate bolt (arrow).. 2.2b ... disengage the plate from the pin grooves ...

2 Front brake pads - replacement

General information
Warning: When replacing the front brake pads on models with twin
discs, always replace the pads in BOTH calipers - never just on one
The models covered in this manual are fitted with cast aluminum side. The dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos,
wheels designed to accept tubeless tires. The rear wheel of 1987 and which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air
1988 700/750 Magna models is of the disc type, with a removable and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn
cover on the left side. when working on the brakes. Refer to illustrations 2.1a, 2.1b, 2.2a, 2.2b,
The front brake is a hydraulically-operated twin disc on 1982 2.2c, 2.3, 2.4 and 2.11
through 1986 models, and a single disc on 1987 and 1988 700/750
1 Remove the caliper body-to-bracket mounting bolts and slide the
Magna models; in all cases twin-piston brake calipers are fitted. The
caliper off the disc, leaving the bracket attached to the fork slider (see
rear brake is a rod-operated drum on 700/750 models and a
illustrations). Support the caliper while it is removed so that no strain
hydraulically-operated disc on 1100 models.
is placed on its hydraulic hose.
Caution: Disc brake components rarely require disassembly. Do not
2 Remove the bolt that retains the pad pin retainer to the caliper, then
disassemble components unless absolutely necessary. If any hydraulic
disengage the retainer from the pins and pull both pins out of the
brake line is loosened, the entire system be disassembled, drained,
caliper (see illustrations).
cleaned and then properly filled and bled upon reassembly. Do not use
3 Lift out the brake pads (see illustration). The pad spring can be
solvents on internal brake components. Solvents will cause the seals to
left in position in the caliper.
swell and distort. Use only clean brake fluid or alcohol for cleaning. Use
4 Inspect the surface of each pad for contamination and check that
care when working with brake fluid as it can injure your eyes and it will
the friction material has not worn beyond its service limit groove, or
damage painted surfaces and plastic parts.
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-5

2.2c ... and pull the pins out with pliers 2.3 Lift the brake pads (arrows) out of the caliper

2.4 Brake pad service limit groove (lower arrow) and cutout 2.11 Anti-rattle spring position (lower arrow). Upper mounting
(upper arrow) dust boot (upper arrow)
down to expose the cutout in the pad's rear edge; if worn down to this both pads firmly against the rear of the caliper body to enable the
point or are approaching it, the pads must be replaced (see remaining pin to be installed.
illustration). Similarly, if either pad is fouled with oil or grease, or 10 Install the pin retainer plate, pressing its slots into the pin grooves to
heavily scored or damaged by dirt and debris, both pads must be lock them in place. Tighten the retainer plate screw securely.
replaced as a set. Note that it is not possible to degrease the friction 11 Slide the caliper assembly onto the disc, taking care not to disturb
material; if the pads are contaminated in any way they must be the anti-rattle spring (see illustration). Apply silicon grease to the
replaced. shafts of the upper and lower mounting bolts and inside their dust
5 If the pads are in good condition clean them carefully, using a fine boots, then install them in the caliper; tighten to the specified torque.
wire brush which is completely free of oil and grease, to remove all 12 Top up the master cylinder reservoir (see Chapter 1) and fit the float
traces of road dirt and corrosion. Using a pointed instrument, clean out (1988 750 Magna only), diaphragm, plate (where fitted) and cover.
the grooves in the friction material and dig out any embedded particles 13 Operate the brake lever several times to bring the pads into contact
of foreign matter. Any areas of glazing may be removed using emery with the disc. Check the master cylinder fluid level (see Chapter 1) and
cloth. the operation of the brake before riding the motorcycle.
6 Check the condition of the brake disc (see Section 4).
7 Remove all traces of corrosion from the pad pins. Inspect the pins
and pad spring for signs of damage and replace if necessary. Also 3 Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and
check the anti-rattle spring fitted to the top of the caliper bracket. installation
8 If installing new pads, push the pistons as far back into the caliper as
possible using hand pressure only. Due to the increased friction
Warning: If a caliper indicates the need for an overhaul (usually due to
material thickness of new pads, it may be necessary to remove the
leaking fluid or sticky operation), all old brake fluid should be flushed
master cylinder reservoir cap, plate (where fitted) and diaphragm and from the system. A/so, the dust created by the brake system may
syphon out some fluid. contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out
9 Insert the pads into the caliper, ensuring the pad spring remains
with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering
correctly positioned, so that the friction material of each pad is facing
mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any
the disc. Insert one pad retaining pin making sure that it passes
circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
through the holes in both pads and into the caliper body, then hold
clean brake fluid, brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only.
7-6 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

Piston
assembly

Right
caliper
assembly

Caliper
body

Left
caliper
bracket

Piston

3.6 Front brake components (typical)

 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-7

3.14 Piston seal (upper arrow) and dust 3.16 Ensure that the pistons are inserted 3.17 Lower mounting bolt collar and dust
seal (lower arrow) locations in squarely into their bores boot arrangement
caliper bore
Removal 10 Remove both the piston seals in the same way.
11 Clean the pistons and bores with denatured alcohol, clean brake
1 Place the bike on its main stand, or make sure it is securely
fluid or brake system cleaner. Caution: Do not, under any circum-
supported where only a side stand is fitted.
stances, use a petroleum-based solvent to clean brake parts. If
2 Remove the brake hose banjo fitting bolt and separate the hose from
compressed air is available, use it to dry the parts thoroughly (make
the caliper. Plug the hose end or wrap a plastic bag tightly around it to
sure it's filtered and unlubricated).
minimize fluid loss and prevent dirt entering the system. Discard the
12 Inspect the caliper bores and pistons for signs of corrosion, nicks
sealing washers; new ones must be used on installation. Note: If
and burrs and loss of plating. If surface defects are present, the caliper
you're planning to overhaul the caliper and don't have a source of
assembly must be replaced. If the caliper is in bad shape the master
compressed air to blow out the pistons, just loosen the banjo bolt at
cylinder should also be checked.
this stage and retighten it lightly. The bike's hydraulic system can then be
13 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, compare the
used to force the pistons out of the body once the pads have been
dimensions of the caliper bores and pistons to those given in the
removed. Disconnect the hose once the pistons have been sufficiently
Specifications Section of this Chapter, replacing any component that is
displaced.
worn beyond the service limit.
3 Remove the caliper body-to-bracket mounting bolts and slide the
14 Lubricate the new piston seals with clean brake fluid and install
caliper off the disc, leaving the bracket attached to the fork slider (see
them in their grooves in the caliper bores (see illustration).
illustrations 2.1 a and 2.1b).
15 Lubricate the new dust seals with clean brake fluid and install them
4 To remove the caliper bracket from the fork slider on 1982 through
in their grooves in the caliper bores.
1986 models, remove the two bolts which retain it to the slider lugs
16 Lubricate the pistons with clean brake fluid and install them in the
(right side) or the upper bolt which retains it to the slider lug and the
caliper bores (see illustration). Using your thumbs, push the pistons
lower bolt which retains it to the anti-dive housing (left side). Note the
all the way in, making sure they enter their bores squarely.
exact order and position of any collars, cable guides, washers and dust
17 Carefully remove the outside dust boots from the lower mounting
seals at each mounting. Slip the speedometer cable/sensor wire out of
bolt hole in the caliper, then slip the collar out of the caliper body (see
the wire guide on the left caliper bracket.
illustration). Check the condition of the dust boots and replace them if
5 On 1987 and 1988 models, the caliper bracket is retained to the
split or cracked. Check the condition of the dust boot situated between
slider lugs by two chrome-headed bolts. Slip the speedometer cable
the caliper body and bracket on the upper mounting bolt.
out of the wire guide on the bracket.
18 Lay the pad spring in place in the caliper. Apply a very thin coat of
silicon grease to the lower mounting bolt collar and slip it into the
Overhaul caliper body; install the dust boots on each side of the collar, making
Refer to illustrations 3.6, 3.14,3.16 and 3.17 sure they are properly seated in the collar grooves.
6 Clean the exterior of the caliper with denatured alcohol or brake 19 Install the brake pads (see Section 2).
system cleaner (see illustration).
7 Remove the brake pads from the caliper body (see Section 2), then
lift out the pad spring.
Installation
8 If the pistons weren't forced out using the bike's hydraulic system, 20 If removed from the fork slider, install the caliper bracket. Tighten
place a wad of rag between the piston and caliper frame to act as a the caliper bracket bolts to the specified torque (where given). Make
cushion, then use compressed air directed into the fluid inlet to force sure that the anti-rattle spring is properly installed on the bracket (see
the pistons out of the body. Use only low air pressure to ease the illustration 2.11).
pistons out and make sure both pistons are displaced at the same time. 21 Install the caliper on the bracket, apply silicon grease to the shafts
If the air pressure is too high and the pistons are forced out, the caliper of the caliper mounting bolts and install them in the caliper; tighten
and/or pistons may be damaged. Warning: Never place your fingers in them to the specified torque.
front of the pistons in an attempt to catch or protect them when 22 Connect the brake hose to the caliper, using new sealing washers
applying compressed air, as serious injury could result. Keep each on each side of the fitting. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the specified
piston with its bore to ensure that they are not interchanged on torque setting.
reassembly (label them if necessary). 23 Fill the master cylinder with the recommended brake fluid (see
9 Using a wooden or plastic tool, remove the dust seals from the Chapter 1) and bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 11.
caliper bores. If a metal tool is being used, take great care not to 24 Check for leaks and thoroughly test the operation of the brake
damage the caliper bores. before riding the motorcycle.
7-8 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

4.3 Measuring disc runout 4.5 Measuring disc thickness

4 Front brake discs - inspection, removal and

Installation
installation 9 On 1982 through 1986 models, position a new gasket on each of the
wheel's disc mounting pillars. On early models the gaskets have a flat
edge, which must face the cast flat on the wheel surface.
Inspection 10 Install the disc on the wheel, aligning the previously applied match
marks (if you're installing the original disc).
Refer to illustrations 4.3 and 4.5
11 Install the bolts, ensuring the shims remain in position, and tighten
1 Set the bike on its main stand. Where no main stand is fitted, support
them evenly and progressively to the specified torque. Clean off all
the bike securely under the crankcase so that the front wheel is raised
grease from the brake disc(s) using acetone or brake system cleaner.
off the ground.
If new brake discs have been installed, remove any protective coating
2 Visually inspect the surface of the discs for score marks and other
from their working surfaces.
damage. Light scratches are normal after use and won't affect brake
12 Install the wheel (see Section 15).
operation, but deep grooves and heavy score marks will reduce
13 Operate the brake lever several times to bring the pads into contact
braking efficiency and accelerate pad wear. If the discs are badly
with the disc. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before riding
grooved they must be machined or replaced.
the motorcycle.
3 To check disc runout, mount a dial indicator to a fork leg, with the
plunger on the indicator touching the surface of the disc about 10 mm
(1/2 inch) from the outer edge (see illustration). Rotate the wheel and
watch the indicator needle, comparing your reading with the limit listed 5 Front brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and
in this Chapter's Specifications. installation
4 If the runout is greater than allowed, check the hub bearings for play.
If the bearings are worn, replace them and repeat this check. If the disc 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if the lever does not produce
runout is still excessive, it will have to be replaced, although machining a firm feel when the brake is applied, and bleeding the brakes does
by a competent engineering shop may be a solution. Confirm your not help, master cylinder overhaul is recommended Before
findings by removing the disc and checking it for warpage on a surface disassembling the master cylinder, read through the entire procedure
plate using feeler blades. and make sure that you have the correct rebuild kit. Also, you will
5 The disc must not be machined or allowed to wear down to a need some new, clean brake fluid of the recommended type, some
thickness less than the service limit, listed in this Chapter's Specifi- clean shop towels and internal snap-ring pliers. Note: To prevent
cations (check also for wear limits stamped on the disc itself). The damage to the paint from spilled brake fluid, always cover the fuel tank
thickness of the disc can be checked with a micrometer (see when working on the master cylinder.
illustration). If the thickness of the disc is less than the minimum 2 Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and reassembly of the brake
allowable, it must be replaced. master cylinder must be done in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid
contamination and possible failure of the brake hydraulic system
Removal components.
6 Remove the wheel as described in Section 15. Caution: Don't lay the
wheel down and allow it to rest on either disc - the disc could become Removal
warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the disc doesn't support the 3 Loosen, but do not remove, the screws holding the reservoir cover in
weight of the wheel. place.
7 Mark the relationship of the disc to the wheel, so it can be installed in 4 Disconnect the electrical connectors from the brake light switch.
the same position. Remove the bolts that retain the disc to the wheel. 5 Pull back the rubber boot, loosen the banjo fitting bolt and separate
Loosen the bolts a little at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, to avoid the brake hose from the master cylinder. Wrap the end of the hose in
distorting the disc. a clean rag and suspend the hose in an upright position or bend it
8 Remove the disc and on 1982 through 1986 models recover the down carefully and place the open end in a clean container. The
gaskets which are positioned between the disc and wheel pillars. On objective is to prevent excessive loss of brake fluid, fluid spills and
twin disc models, the discs should be marked L or R near one of the system contamination.
bolt holes to denote on which side of the wheel they are fitted; if no 6 Remove the locknut from the underside of the brake lever pivot bolt,
marks are found, make some with a felt marker. then unscrew the bolt and remove the brake lever.
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-9

5.8 Location of port baffle in fluid 5.10 Master cylinder piston and dust 5.14a Measuring master cylinder bore ID
reservoir base boot location

5.14b Measuring master cylinder piston OD 5.19 Master cylinder clamp UP marking (arrow)
7 Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts and clamp to free 14 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, compare the
the master cylinder from the handlebar. Caution: Do not tip the dimensions of the master cylinder bore and piston to those given in
master cylinder upside down or brake fluid will run out. the Specifications Section of this Chapter, replacing any
component that it is worn beyond the service limit (see
Overhaul illustrations).
Refer to illustrations 5.8, 5.10, 5.14a and 5.14b 15 The dust boot, piston assembly and spring are included in the
rebuild kit. Use all of the new parts, regardless of the apparent
8 Detach the reservoir cover and remove the plate (where fitted),
condition of the old ones.
rubber diaphragm, and on 1988 750 Magnas lift out the float, then
16 Before reassembling the master cylinder, soak the piston and
drain the brake fluid into a suitable container (see illustration 3.6). the rubber cup seals in clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes.
Wipe any remaining fluid out of the reservoir with a clean rag. If the Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean brake fluid, then
port baffle in the base of the reservoir was disturbed, ensure it is carefully insert the piston and related parts in the reverse order of
installed correctly (see illustration). disassembly. Make sure the lips on the cup seals do not turn inside
9 Undo the screw and remove the brake light switch. out when they are slipped into the bore and ensure the spring is
10 Carefully remove the rubber dust boot from the end of the fitted the correct way around.
piston (see illustration). 17 Depress the piston, then install the snap-ring (make sure the
11 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-ring and slide out the snap-ring is properly seated in the groove). Install the rubber dust
piston assembly and the spring. Lay the parts out in the proper boot (make sure the lip is seated properly in the piston groove).
order to prevent confusion during reassembly. 18 Install the brake light switch and securely tighten its retaining
12 Clean all of the parts with brake system cleaner (available at screw.
auto parts stores), isopropyl alcohol or clean brake fluid. Caution:
Do not, under any circumstances, use a petroleum-based solvent to Installation
clean brake parts. If compressed air is available, use it to dry the Refer to illustration 5.19
parts thoroughly (make sure it's filtered and unlubricated). 19 Attach the master cylinder to the handlebar then fit the clamp
13 Check the master cylinder bore for corrosion, scratches, nicks making sure the 'UP' mark is facing upwards (see illustration). On
and score marks. If damage is evident, the master cylinder must Magnas and 1984-on Sabres, the joint of the clamp should align with
be replaced with a new one. If the master cylinder is in poor the punch mark on the handlebar to ensure that the reservoir is
condition, then the calipers should be checked as well. positioned upright. On all models, fully tighten the upper bolt first, then
the lower, both to the specified torque (where given).
7-10 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

6.2 Rear brake components (1100 models)

20 Connect the brake hose to the master cylinder, using new 4 Slide the caliper assembly onto the disc, taking care not to
sealing washers. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the specified disturb the anti-rattle spring fitted to the top of the mounting
torque setting. bracket. Apply silicon grease to the shafts of the upper and lower
21 Install the lever and pivot bolt. Install the pivot bolt locknut and mounting bolts and inside their dust boots and install them in the
tighten it securely. Connect the brake light switch wiring. caliper; tighten to the specified torque.
22 Refer to Section 11 and bleed the air from the system. Check 5 Top up the master cylinder reservoir (see Chapter 1) and fit the
the operation of the front brake carefully before riding the diaphragm, plate and cap.
motorcycle. 6 Operate the brake lever several times to bring the pads into
contact with the disc. Check the reservoir fluid level (see Chapter
1) and the operation of the brake before riding the motorcycle.
6 Rear brake pads (1100 models) - replacement

Warning: The dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, 7 Rear brake caliper (1100 models) - removal, overhaul
which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and installation
and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn
when working on the brakes. Refer to illustration 6.2 Warning: If the caliper indicates the need for an overhaul (usually due to
1 Set the bike on its main stand. leaking fluid or sticky operation), all old brake fluid should be flushed
2 Remove the caliper mounting bolts and slide the caliper off the from the system. Also, the dust created by the brake system may
disc, leaving its mounting bracket in place (see illustration). contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out
3 The caliper is identical to that fitted to the front brakes and pad with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering
renewal can be performed as described in Section 2, Steps 2 mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any
through 10.
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-11

circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. 5 Install the bolts and tighten them evenly and progressively to the
Use clean brake fluid, brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only. specified torque setting. Clean off all grease from the brake disc
using acetone or brake system cleaner. If a new brake disc has
Removal been installed, remove any protective coating from its working
1 Place the bike on its main stand. surfaces.
2 Remove the brake hose banjo fitting bolt and separate the hose 6 Install the wheel as described in Section 16.
from the caliper. Plug the hose end or wrap a plastic bag tightly 7 Operate the brake pedal several times to bring the pads into
around it to minimize fluid loss and prevent dirt entering the contact with the disc. Check the operation of the brake carefully
system. Discard the sealing washers; new ones must be used on before riding the motorcycle.
installation. Note: If you're planning to overhaul the caliper and
don't have a source of compressed air to blow out the pistons, just
loosen the banjo bolt at this stage and retighten it lightly. The bike's 9 Rear brake master cylinder (1100 models) - removal,
hydraulic system can then be used to force the piston out of the overhaul and installation
body once the pads have been removed. Disconnect the hose once
the pistons have been sufficiently displaced.
3 Remove the caliper mounting bolts and slide the caliper off the 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if the pedal does not
disc. produce a firm feel when the brake is applied, and bleeding the
4 If caliper bracket removal is required, ensure that the weight of brakes does not help, master cylinder overhaul is recommended.
the motorcycle is off the rear wheel. Disconnect the brake torque Before disassembling the master cylinder, read through the entire
arm from the top of the bracket, and withdraw the wheel axle to procedure and make sure that you have the correct rebuild kit.
free its bottom mounting. Also, you will need some new, clean brake fluid of the
recommended type, some clean shop towels and internal snap-
Overhaul ring pliers.
2 Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and reassembly of the brake
5 The caliper is identical to that fitted to the front brakes; refer to master cylinder must be done in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid
Section 3, Steps 6 through 19, noting the Specifications for the contamination and possible failure of the brake hydraulic system
rear brake caliper at the beginning of this Chapter. components.
Installation Removal
6 If the mounting bracket was removed, slide the wheel axle back
through its lower mounting point and through the wheel hub and Sabre models
final drive unit; tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque. 3 Set the bike on its main stand. Remove the right side cover (see
Reconnect the torque arm to the mounting bracket and install a Chapter 6).
new cotter pin (split pin) to secure the nut. 4 Remove the right muffler (silencer) from the exhaust system (see
7 Slide the caliper assembly onto the disc, taking care not to Chapter 4). Remove the right passenger footpeg bracket (see
disturb the anti-rattle spring fitted to the top of the mounting Chapter 6).
bracket. Apply silicon grease to the shafts of the upper and lower 5 Disconnect the reservoir-to-master cylinder hose at the master
mounting bolts and inside their dust boots and install them in the cylinder end and catch the escaping brake fluid. Remove the
caliper; tighten to the specified torque. reservoir mounting screw and remove the reservoir from the
8 Connect the brake hose to the caliper, using new sealing motorcycle.
washers on each side of the fitting. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to 6 Unscrew the banjo union bolt from the top of the master cylinder.
the specified torque. Discard the sealing washers on each side of the fitting. Wrap the
9 Fill the master cylinder with the recommended brake fluid (see end of the hose in a clean shop towel and suspend the hose in an
Chapter 1) and bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section upright position or bend it down carefully and place the open end
11. in a clean container. The objective is to prevent excessive loss of
10 Check for leaks and thoroughly test the operation of the brake brake fluid, fluid spills and system contamination.
before riding the motorcycle on the road. 7 Remove the two master cylinder mounting bolts and tilt it
backwards to gain access to the pushrod-to-brake pedal clevis link.
If access if available to the cotter pin (split pin), washer and clevis
pin, remove them to allow separation of the pedal and link, but if
8 Rear brake disc (1100 models) - inspection, removal and
not, fully unscrew the master cylinder pushrod from the locknuts on
installation the link. Remove the master cylinder from the motorcycle. Note: If
the pushrod and link are separated, it is advised to mark the pushrod
Inspection threads with white paint or tape, level with the surface of the top locknut
so that the link can be returned to its original position on installation.
1 Refer to Section 4 of this Chapter, noting that the dial indicator
should be attached to the swingarm. Magna models
8 Set the bike on its main stand. Remove the right side cover (see
Removal Chapter 6).
2 Remove the wheel as described in Section 16. Caution: Don't 9 Remove the right passenger footpeg bracket (see Chapter 6).
lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on the disc - the disc could 10 Unscrew the banjo union bolt from the top of the master
become warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the disc doesn't cylinder. Discard the sealing washers on each side of the fitting.
support the weight of the wheel. Wrap the end of the hose in a clean shop towel and suspend the
3 Mark the relationship of the disc to the wheel, so it can be hose in an upright position or bend it down carefully and place the
installed in the same position. Remove the bolts that retain the disc open end in a clean container. The objective is to prevent
to the wheel. Loosen the bolts a little at a time, in a criss-cross excessive loss of brake fluid, fluid spills and system contamination.
pattern, to avoid distorting the disc then remove the disc. 11 Extract the cotter pin (split pin), washer and clevis pin from the
master cylinder pushrod link and detach the link from the brake
Installation pedal.
12 Remove the two master cylinder mounting bolts, followed by the
4 Position the disc on the wheel, aligning the previously applied
reservoir mounting screw, then withdraw the master
match marks (if you're reinstalling the original disc).
cylinder/reservoir from the motorcycle. Remove the reservoir cap,
plate and diaphragm, then drain all fluid from it and loosen the
reservoir-to-master cylinder hose clamps at either end to separate
the two components.
7-12 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

Overhaul
13 Disengage the rubber dust boot from the bottom of the master
cylinder. If the boot is split or damaged it must be replaced; on Magna
models, this will necessitate removal of the clevis from the pushrod end
(see Step 7).
14 Depress the pushrod and, using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-
ring. Slide out the piston assembly and spring. Lay the parts out in the
proper order to prevent confusion during reassembly.
15 Clean all of the parts with brake system cleaner (available at auto
parts stores), isopropyl alcohol or clean brake fluid. Caution: Do not,
under any circumstances, use a petroleum-based solvent to clean
brake parts. If compressed air is available, use it to dry the parts
thoroughly (make sure it's filtered and unlubricated).
16 Check the master cylinder bore for corrosion, scratches, nicks and
score marks. If damage is evident, the master cylinder must be
replaced with a new one. If the master cylinder is in poor condition,
then the caliper should be checked as well.
17 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, compare the 11.5 Apparatus for bleeding the brakes
dimensions of the master cylinder bore and piston to those given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter, replacing any component that it
worn beyond the service limit. If the fittings are rusted, scratched or cracked, replace them. 4 Inspect
18 A new piston and spring are included in the rebuild kit. Use them the three-way hose joint fitted to the lower triple clamp of 1982 through
regardless of the condition of the old ones. 1986 models. If it shows signs of leakage or corrosion, drain the
19 Before reassembling the master cylinder, soak the piston and the system and remove it for inspection. Refer to Chapter 6 'Steering stem
rubber cup seals in clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes. - removal and installation' for details of removal of the three-way union.
Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean brake fluid, then carefully
insert the parts in the reverse order of disassembly, ensuring the Replacement
tapered end of the spring is facing the piston. Make sure the lips on the 5 The brake hoses have banjo union fittings on each end of the hose.
cup seals do not turn inside out when they are slipped into the bore. Cover the surrounding area with plenty of shop towels and unscrew
20 Depress the pushrod, then install the snap-ring (make sure the the banjo bolt on each end of the hose. Detach the hose from any clips
snap-ring is properly seated in the groove). Install the dust boot on the that may be present and remove the hose. Discard the sealing
master cylinder. If the clevis was removed on Magna models, install the washers.
top locknut (using the previously made marks), clevis and bottom 6 Position the new hose, making sure it isn't twisted or otherwise
locknut; tighten the locknuts to secure the clevis. strained, between the two components. Make sure the metal tube
portion of the banjo fitting butts against or is located between the
Installation protrusions on the component it's connected to, if equipped. Install the
21 Installation is a reverse of removal, noting the following: banjo bolts, using new sealing washers on both sides of the fittings,
and tighten them to the specified torque setting.
a) On Sabre models, tighten the top and bottom locknuts to secure
7 Flush the old brake fluid from the system, refill the system with the
the clevis on the pushrod (use the previously made marks to
recommended fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the air from the system
return it to its original position).
(see Section 11). Check the operation of the brakes carefully before
b) On Magna models, connect the clevis to the brake pedal, insert
riding the motorcycle.
the clevis pin, washer and a new cotter pin (split pin); bend the
cotter pin legs around the pin end to secure it.
c) Use new sealing washers on each side of the banjo union bolt and
ensure the union butts against the cast lug on the master cylinder 11 Brake system bleeding
when tightened to the specified torque. _______________________________^__
d) If the reservoir hose adaptor on the master cylinder body was
Refer to illustration 11.5
disturbed, install it using a new O-ring. Ensure the reservoir hose is
1 Bleeding the brakes is simply the process of removing all the air
securely clamped to its unions.
bubbles from the brake fluid reservoirs, the hoses and the brake
22 Fill the fluid reservoir with the specified fluid (see Chapter 1) and calipers. Bleeding is necessary whenever a brake system hydraulic
bleed the system following the procedure in Section 11. Install the right connection is loosened, when a component or hose is replaced, or
side cover. when the master cylinder or caliper is overhauled. Leaks in the system
23 Check the brake pedal height and adjust it if necessary by altering may also allow air to enter, but leaking brake fluid will reveal their
the clevis position on the master cylinder pushrod (see Chapter 1). presence and warn you of the need for repair.
Check the operation of the rear brake carefully before riding the 2 To bleed the brakes, you will need some new, clean brake fluid of
motorcycle. the recommended type (see Chapter 1), a length of clear vinyl or
plastic tubing, a small container partially filled with clean brake fluid,
some shop towels and a wrench to fit the brake caliper bleeder valves.
10 Brake hoses - inspection and replacement 3 Cover the fuel tank and other painted components to prevent
damage in the event that brake fluid is spilled.
4 Remove the reservoir cap or cover, plate (where fitted), diaphragm
Inspection and float (1988 750 Magna) and slowly pump the brake lever or pedal
1 Once a week, or if the motorcycle is used less frequently, before a few times, until no air bubbles can be seen floating up from the
every ride, check the condition of the brake hoses. holes at the bottom of the reservoir. Doing this bleeds the air from the
2 Twist and flex the rubber hoses while looking for cracks, bulges and master cylinder end of the line. Install the reservoir cap/cover
seeping fluid. Check extra carefully around the areas where the hoses components loosely.
connect with the banjo fittings, as these are common areas for hose 5 Attach one end of the clear vinyl or plastic tubing to the bleeder
failure. valve and submerge the other end in the brake fluid in the container
3 Inspect the metal banjo union fittings connected to brake hoses. (see illustration).
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-13

12.3 Rear drum brake components

1 Brake shoes 5 Brake panel 9 Brake lever
2 Return springs 6 Wheel spacer 10 Torque arm connection components
3 Retaining plate and cotter pins 7 Felt seal (later models)
4 Brake cam 8 Wear indicator plate

8 Retighten the bleeder valve, then release the brake lever or

pedal gradually. Repeat the process until no air bubbles are visible
in the brake fluid leaving the caliper and the lever or pedal is firm
when applied.
9 Install the reservoir cap or cover, wipe up any spilled brake fluid
and check the entire system for leaks. Note: If bleeding is difficult,
it may be necessary to let the brake fluid in the system stabilize for a few
hours (it may be aerated). Repeat the bleeding procedure when the tiny
bubbles in the system have settled out.

12 Rear drum brake (700/750 models) - removal,

inspection and installation

Warning: The dust collected by the brake system may contain

asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with
compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask
12.4 Remove the brake shoes and springs as a single unit should be worn when working on the brakes.

Removal
Refer to illustrations 12.3 and 12.4
6 Remove the reservoir cap/cover components and check the fluid 1 Before you start, inspect the rear brake wear indicator (see
level. Do not allow the fluid level to drop below the lower mark Chapter 1).
during the bleeding process. 2 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 16) and lift the brake panel
7 Carefully pump the brake lever or pedal three or four times and out of the hub.
hold it in (front) or down (rear) while opening the caliper bleeder 3 Remove the cotter pins (split pins) from the pivot posts and lift off
valve. When the valve is opened, brake fluid will flow out of the the retaining plate (see illustration).
caliper into the clear tubing and the lever will move toward the 4 Fold the shoes toward each other to release the spring tension.
handlebar or the pedal will move down. Remove the shoes and springs from the brake panel (see
illustration).
7-14 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

12.6 Measuring brake lining thickness 12.8 Check for punch marks (arrow) on the cam end and lever
fingernail, have the drum turned (skimmed) by a dealer to correct the
surface. If the drum has to be turned (skimmed) beyond the service
limit to remove the defects, replace the wheel.

Installation
10 If the cam was removed from the brake panel, apply high-melting
point grease to its shaft, then insert it in the panel. Install the felt seal
and wear indicator pointer, aligning its wide spline with the
corresponding slot in the cam. Align the previously-made match
marks, and install the brake lever on the cam splines. Install and
tighten its pinch bolt to the specified torque.
11 Apply high-melting point grease to the shoe pivots and the cam.
12 Hook the springs into the shoe holes. Position the shoes in a V on
the brake panel, then fold them down into position. Make sure the
ends of the shoes fit correctly against the cam and over the pivot
posts. Install the retaining plate over the pivot posts and fit new cotter
pins (split pins); bend their ends around the posts.
13 Operate the brake lever and check that the shoes move freely and
return under spring tension.
14 Install the brake panel in the rear wheel. Install the rear wheel (see
Section 16).
15 Check the brake pedal freeplay (see Chapter 1) and check the
13.2a Use a dial indicator to measure wheel runout operation of the brake and stop light before riding the motorcycle.

A Radial runout B Axial runout

13 Wheels - inspection and repair
Inspection Refer to illustrations 13.2a, 13.2b and 13.2c
Refer to illustrations 12.6 and 12.8 1 Place the motorcycle on the main stand, or support it securely in an
5 Check the linings for wear, damage and signs of contamination from upright position where only a side stand is fitted. Clean the wheels
road dirt or water. If the linings are visibly defective, replace them. thoroughly to remove mud and dirt that may interfere with the
6 Measure the thickness of the lining material (just the lining material, inspection procedure or mask defects. Make a general check of the
not the metal backing) and compare with the service limit in this wheels and tires as described in Chapter 1. Note: To carry out a
Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). Replace the shoes if the thorough check of the rear wheel casting on 1987 and 1988 700/750
lining is near to or worn beyond the service limit. Magna models, remove the wheel (see Section 16) and remove the
7 Check the ends of the shoes where they contact the brake cam and wheel cover from the left side; it is retained by three screws to the
pivot posts. Replace the shoes if there's visible wear at these points. wheel hub.
8 Check the brake cam and pivot posts for wear and damage. Look for 2 With the wheel being checked raised off the ground, attach a dial
punch alignment marks on the cam end and lever, and if none are indicator to the fork slider or the swingarm and position its stem
found make your own, then remove the pinch bolt, lever, wear indicator against the side of the rim (see illustrations). Spin the wheel slowly
pointer, felt seal and cam from the brake panel (see illustration). and check the side-to-side (axial) runout of the m, then compare your
9 Check the brake drum (inside the wheel hub) for wear and damage. readings with the value listed in this Chapter's Specifications. In order
Measure the diameter at several points with a brake drum micrometer. to accurately check radial runout with the dial indicator, the wheel
If the measurements are uneven (indicating that the drum is out-of- would have to be removed from the machine. With the axle clamped in
round) or if there are scratches deep enough to snap a a vise, the wheel can be rotated to check the runout (see illustration).
3 An easier, though slightly less accurate, method is to attach a stiff
wire pointer to the fork slider or the swingarm and position the end a
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-15

13.2b Measuring axial runout 13.2c Measuring radial runout 15.1 Use a jackstand to raise the front
wheel off the ground
fraction of an inch from the wheel (where the wheel and tire join). If 9 If the front-to-back alignment is correct, the wheels still may be out of
the wheel is true, the distance from the pointer to the rim will be alignment vertically.
constant as the wheel is rotated. Note: If wheel runout is excessive, 10 Using the plumb bob, or other suitable weight, and a length of
check the wheel bearings very carefully before replacing the wheel. string, check the rear wheel to make sure it is vertical. To do this, hold
4 The wheels should also be visually inspected for cracks, flat spots the string against the tire upper sidewall and allow the weight to settle
on the rim and other damage. Since tubeless tires are fitted, look very just off the floor. When the string touches both the upper and lower tire
closely for dents in the area where the tire bead contacts the rim. sidewalls and is perfectly straight, the wheel is vertical. If it is not, place
Dents in this area may prevent complete sealing of the tire against the thin spacers under one leg of the main stand.
rim, which leads to deflation of the tire over a period of time. 11 Once the rear wheel is vertical, check the front wheel in the same
5 If damage is evident, or if runout in either direction is excessive, the manner. If both wheels are not perfectly vertical, the frame and/or
wheel will have to be replaced with a new one. Never attempt to repair major suspension components are bent.
a damaged cast aluminum wheel.

15 Front wheel - removal and installation

14 Wheels - alignment check

1 Misalignment of the wheels, which may be due to a cocked rear Removal

wheel or a bent frame or triple clamps, can cause strange and possibly Refer to illustrations 15.1, 15.9, 15.10 and 15.11
serious handling problems. If the frame or triple clamps are at fault, 1 Place the motorcycle on its main stand, then raise the front wheel off
repair by a frame specialist or replacement with new parts are the only the ground by tying down the rear of the machine or using a jackstand
alternatives. under the engine (see illustration). On models without a main stand,
2 To check the alignment you will need an assistant, a length of string remove the belly fairing (see Chapter 6) and place a floor jack, with a
or a perfectly straight piece of wood and a ruler graduated in 1/64 inch
wood block on the jack head, under the crankcase; raise the jack to lift
increments. A plumb bob or other suitable weight will also be required.
the wheel off the ground.
3 Place the motorcycle on the main stand. Where no main stand is
fitted, support the motorcycle securely under the crankcase so that it is Sabre models
vertical. Measure the width of both tires at their widest points. Subtract 2 On 1100 models and 1982/83 750 Sabres, remove its set screw and
the smaller measurement from the larger measurement, then divide release the speedometer sensor unit from the left side of the axle. On
the difference by two. The result is the amount of offset that should 1984/85 700 Sabres, remove the set screw and withdraw the
exist between the front and rear tires on both sides. speedometer cable from the drive unit. Release its wiring or cable (as
4 If a string is used, have your assistant hold one end of it about half applicable) from the guide on the left caliper bracket.
way between the floor and the rear axle, touching the rear sidewall of 3 Remove the two caliper bracket-to-fork slider bolts and withdraw the
the tire. right caliper complete with its bracket from the slider. Support the
5 Run the other end of the string forward and pull it tight so that it is caliper so that it does not hang by its hose. Note: Place a wood or
roughly parallel to the floor. Slowly bring the string into contact with the plastic wedge between the brake pads to prevent their accidental
front sidewall of the rear tire, then turn the front wheel until it is parallel expulsion if the brake lever is operated.
with the string. Measure the distance from the front tire sidewall to the 4 Loosen the axle clamp bolts (700/750) or axle pinch bolt (1100) on
string. the right side, then unscrew and withdraw the axle from the right side.
6 Repeat the procedure on the other side of the motorcycle. The
distance from the front tire sidewall to the string should be equal on 1982 through 1986 Magna models
both sides. 5 Remove its set screw and pull the speedometer cable out of the
7 As was previously pointed out, a perfectly straight length of wood speedometer drive unit.
may be substituted for the string. The procedure is the same. 6 Remove the two caliper-to-caliper bracket bolts from each caliper
8 If the distance between the string and tire is greater on one side, or if and slide the calipers off the disc; support their hoses to prevent strain
the rear wheel appears to be cocked, first check the condition of the on them. Note: Place a wood or plastic wedge between the brake pads to
swingarm bearings (see Chapter 6). If the bearings are not worn, the prevent their accidental expulsion if the brake lever is operated.
swingarm or frame may be bent. 7 Loosen the axle pinch bolt on the right side, then unscrew and
withdraw the axle from the right side.
7-16 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

speedometer drive from the left side (see illustration). Caution: Don't
lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on one of the discs - the disc
could become warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the disc
doesn't support the weight of the wheel. Note: Do not operate the front
brake lever with the wheel removed.
11 If the axle is corroded, remove the corrosion with fine emery
cloth. Set the axle on V-blocks and measure the runout with a dial
test indicator; if runout exceeds the service limit, replace the axle
(see illustration).
12 Check the condition of the wheel bearings (see Section 17).

Installation
Refer to illustrations 15.14 and 15.16
13 Fit the speedometer drive unit to the left side wheel aligning its
drive gear slots with the driveplate tabs. Install the spacer in the
right side of the wheel.
15.9 Axle clamp bolts on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas
14 Maneuver the wheel into position. Apply a thin coat of grease
to the axle. If the axle clamp was removed on 700/750 Sabre
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models models, install it with its cast arrow facing forward, but leave its
8 Remove its set screw and pull the speedometer cable out of the nuts loose at this stage (see illustration).
speedometer drive unit. 15 Lift the wheel into position, guiding the disc(s) between the
9 Loosen the axle pinch bolts on the left, then right side, remove brake pads on models where the calipers were not removed.
the axle nut from the right side and pull the axle out from the left Check that the right side spacer remains in place and position the
side (see illustration). Lower the wheel out of the brake caliper. speedometer drive unit so that its lug butts against the back of the
cast lug on the left slider.
All models 16 On 1982 through 1986 models, slide the axle into position from
10 Remove the spacer from the right side of the wheel and the the right side and thread it into the threads of the left slider;
tighten it to

15.10 Front wheel components

 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-17

15.11 Measuring wheel axle runout 15.14 Arrow mark must face forward on 15.16 Measuring disc-to-caliper
700/750 Sabre axle clamp bracket clearance

16.3 Brake stopper bolt (arrow) is hidden behind cover 16.4 Brake torque arm is retained to brake panel by split pin, nut
in swingarm and pivot bolt on 1985-on models
18 Connect the speedometer cable or sensor to the drive unit and
securely tighten its retaining screw. Loop the cable/wire through the
wire guide on the left caliper bracket.
19 Remove the support from under the engine and rest the front wheel
on the ground. Pump the front forks a few times to settle all
components in position.

16 Rear wheel - removal and installation

Removal
700/750 models
Refer to illustrations 16.3, 16.4, 16.5 and 16.6
16.5 Fully unscrew the rear brake adjusting nut from the 1 Set the bike on its main stand. On models without a main stand,
place a floor jack, with a wood block on the jack head, under the rear of
brake rod
the engine and raise it so that the rear wheel is off the ground; support
the bike securely using a jackstand.
the specified torque. If they were removed, install the calipers on the 2 Remove the rear axle nut on the left side of the wheel.
brake discs and tighten their mounting bolts to the specified torque. 3 On Sabres and 1982 through 1984 Magnas, remove the plastic cover
Using a 0.7 mm (0.028 in) feeler blade, measure the clearance in the right side of the swingarm to gain access to the brake stopper
between the right caliper bracket and the brake disc; if the clearance is bolt, then remove the bolt (see illustration). Note: Hold the brake
less than the gauge thickness, pull the right slider outwards at the axle panel with your hand so the stopper bolt will come out freely.
and leave it in place while the clamp or pinch bolts are tightened (see 4 On 1985-on Magnas, remove the cotter pin (split pin), plain and
illustration). Tighten the pinch bolt or nuts to the specified torque, rubber washers and pivot bolt from the brake torque arm end, and
noting that on 700/750 models the forward nut on the clamp must be lower the torque arm away from the brake panel (see illustration).
fully tightened, followed by the rear nut. 5 While pushing forward on the rear brake lever to compress the
17 On 1987 and 1988 700/750 models, insert the axle from the left spring, remove the rear brake adjusting nut and disengage the brake
side, install the nut and tighten it to the specified torque. rod from the brake lever pivot trunnion (see illustration). Remove the
7-18 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

16.6 Use a bar through the axle head to pull it from position 17.13 Speedometer driveplate tangs should fit in hub cutouts
pivot trunnion from the brake lever and thread the spring, pivot trunnion
and adjusting nut back on the brake rod for safekeeping. d) Tighten the brake caliper bolts (1100 Sabre) to the specified
6 Loosen the axle pinch bolt located on the right side of the swingarm. torque.
Insert a screwdriver through the right end of the rear axle and pull the e) Tighten the axle pinch bolt to the specified torque.
axle out (see illustration). Do not lose the spacer as the axle is f) Adjust the rear brake freeplay on 700/750 models (see Chapter 1).
withdrawn. 16 Operate the brake pedal to bring the pads back into contact with
7 With the axle removed, pull the wheel (with the brake panel still in the disc on 1100 models. Check brake operation on all models before
place) to the right, separating it from the final drive unit. Work it out riding the motorcycle.
toward the rear by passing it on the right side of the rear fender.

1100 models
8 Set the bike on its main stand.
17 Wheel bearings - removal, inspection and
9 Remove the rear axle nut on the left side of the wheel.
10 On Sabre models, remove the two caliper-to-bracket bolts and slip installation Front wheel bearings
the caliper off the brake disc. Support it so that it doesn't hang by its
hose. Refer to illustration 17.13
11 Loosen the axle pinch bolt on the right end of the swingarm and Note: Always replace the wheel bearings in pairs. Never replace the
withdraw the axle from the right side. bearings individually.
12 Pull the wheel to the right to separate it from the final drive unit. 1 Remove the wheel (see Section 15),
Work it out toward the rear by passing it on the right side of the rear 2 Set the wheel on blocks so as not to allow the weight of the wheel
fender. Caution: Don't lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on the rest on the brake discs.
disc; it could become warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so the 3 Remove the speedometer drive unit and spacer from the wheel hub
disc doesn't support the weight of the wheel. Do not operate the brake (see illustration 15.10).
pedal with the wheel removed. 4 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, pry out the grease seal from the left
side of the wheel, then withdraw the speedometer driveplate.
All models 5 Pry out the grease seal from the right side of the wheel.
13 If the axle is corroded, remove the corrosion with fine emery cloth. 6 Using a metal rod (preferably a brass drift punch) inserted through
Set the axle on V-blocks and measure the runout with a dial test the center of the hub bearing, tap evenly around the inner race of the
indicator; if runout exceeds the service limit, replace the axle (see opposite bearing to drive it from the hub. The bearing spacer will also
illustration 15.11). come out.
14 Check the condition of the wheel bearings (see Section 17). 7 Lay the wheel on its other side and remove the remaining bearing
using the same technique.
Installation 8 If the bearings are of the unsealed type or only sealed on one side,
clean them with a high flash-point solvent (one which won't leave any
15 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
residue) and blow them dry with compressed air (don't let the
following. Note: Honda advise that the three final drive unit-to-swingarm
bearings spin as you dry them). Apply a few drops of oil to the
nuts be loosened very slightly to ease axle installation.
bearing. Note: If the bearing is sealed on both sides don't attempt to
a) Apply multi-purpose grease (Honda specify type NLGI No. 2 clean it.
grease with M0S2 to the splines of the final drive flange attached to 9 Hold the outer race of the bearing and rotate the inner race - if the
the left side of the hub. bearing doesn't turn smoothly, has rough spots or is noisy, replace it
b) Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle before installing it, then with a new one.
tighten its nut to the specified torque. Tighten the final drive-to- 10 If the bearing checks out okay and was not damaged on removal
swingarm nuts to the specified torque (see Chapter 6 from the hub, wash it in solvent once again and dry it, then pack the
Specifications) once the axle has been installed. bearing with high-quality wheel bearing grease.
e) Tighten the brake panel stop bolt (early 7001750s) or torque arm 11 Thoroughly clean the hub area of the wheel. Install the bearing
pivot bolt nut (later 700/750s) to the specified torque; install a new into the recess in the hub, with the marked or sealed side facing out.
cotter pin (split pin) in the torque arm pivot bolt and bend its ends to Using a bearing driver or a socket large enough to contact the outer
secure the nut. race of the bearing, drive it in until it's completely seated.
12 Turn the wheel over and install the bearing spacer. Unless the
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires 7-19

bearings are sealed on both sides, pack the remaining space no more
than 2/3 full of high-melting point wheel bearing grease. Once the
grease is packed in, driving the second bearing into place as
described above.
13 Fit the speedometer driveplate to the left side of the wheel
ensuring its locating tangs are correctly located in the hub slots (see
illustration).
14 Install new grease seals, using a seal driver, large socket or a flat
piece of wood to drive them into place.
15 Fit the speedometer drive unit to the left side of the wheel aligning
its drive gear slots with the driveplate tabs. Install the spacer in the
right side of the wheel. Clean off all grease from the brake disc(s)
using acetone or brake system cleaner then install the wheel as
described in Section 15.

Rear wheel bearings

Note: Always replace the wheel bearings in pairs. Never replace the
bearings individually.
Refer to illustrations 17.18a, 17.18b 17.19, 17.20, 17.22a, 17.22b and
17.22c
17.18a Protect wheel as shown when levering final drive flange
16 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 16). On 700/750 models, lift
out on 1100 Sabres, 700/750 Magnas and
out the brake panel.
1982 750 Sabres
17 On 1100 models remove the brake disc (see Section 8) and pry out
the spacer and grease seal on that side.
18 On 1100 Sabres, 700/750 Magnas and 1982 750 Sabres, lever the
unscrew the flange nuts - the posts are a press fit during manufacture
final drive flange out of the hub left side, leaving the rubber dampers in
and the nuts staked in place for security.
place in the wheel hub (see illustrations). Caution: Do not attempt to
19 On 1100 Magnas and 1983 through 1985 700/750 Sabres, loosen

17.18b Rear wheel components (1100 Sabres, 700/750 Magnas and 1982 750 Sabres)
 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

7-20

17.19 Rear wheel components (1100 Magnas and 1983-on 700/750 Sabres)

17.20 Pass a drift through the hub to tap out the bearing on the 17.22a Install a new O-ring on the final drive flange
opposite side
the five final drive flange bolts evenly, then lift out the final drive models, using a seal driver, large socket or a flat piece of wood to
flange (see illustration). drive them into place. Fit the spacer into the seal.
20 Remove, inspect and install the bearings as described above 22 Install a new O-ring on the final drive flange and apply a smear
in Steps 6 through 12 (see illustration). of grease to the O-ring. On 1100 Magnas and 1983-on 700/750
21 Install a new grease seal to the right side of the wheel on Sabres, install the drive flange to the wheel and tighten the bolts
1100 in a criss-
 TIRE CHANGING SEQUENCE - TUBELESS TIRES

Deflate tire. After releasing beads, push tire bead into well of Use two levers to work bead over edge of rim. Note use of
rim at point opposite valve. Insert lever next to valve and work rim protectors.
bead over edge of rim.

When first bead is clear, remove tire as shown. Before installing, ensure that tire is suitable for wheel. Take
note of any sidewall markings such as direction of
rotation arrows.

Work first bead over the rim flange. Use a tire lever to work the second bead over rim flange.
7-22 Chapter 7 Brakes, wheels and tires

17.22b Grease the flange posts and inner face on 1100 Sabres, 17.22c ... and insert the flange posts into the cush drive rubbers
700/750 Magnas and 1982 750 Sabres ...
cross pattern to the specified torque (where given). On 1100 problems do occur they require special repair techniques.
Sabres, 700/750 Magnas and 1982 750 Sabres apply grease to 2 The force required to break the seal between the rim and the
the posts and install the drive flange (see illustrations). bead of the tire is substantial, and is usually beyond the
23 On 1100 models, refit the disc to the rear wheel (see Section capabilities of an individual working with normal tire irons.
8). 3 Also, repair of the punctured tire and installation on the wheel
24 Clean off all grease from the brake disc using acetone or brake rim requires special tools, skills and experience that the average
system cleaner then install the wheel as described in Section 16. do-it-yourselfer lacks.
4 For these reasons, if a puncture or flat occurs with a tubeless
tire, the wheel should be removed from the motorcycle and taken
18 Tubeless tires - general information to a dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop for
repair or replacement of the tire. The accompanying color
1 Tubeless tires are used as standard equipment on this illustrations can be used to replace a tubeless tire in an
motorcycle. They are generally safer than tube-type tires but if emergency.
 8-1

Chapter 8
Electrical system
Note: Unless specifically mentioned in this Chapter, the information given for the 1982 750 Sabre applies to the UK VF750S-C, and that for the 1987
and 1988 700/750 Magnas applies to the UK VF750C-H and C-J respectively.

Contents

Section Section
Alternator rqtor - removal and installation ....................... See Chapter 2 Headlight aim - adjustment............................................................ 11
Battery - charging ......... ...... .. ....................................... .... .......... .... 5 Headlight bulb and position light (UK models only) bulb -
Battery - check ................................................................ See Chapter 1 replacement ...... .. .......... . .. ....... .. ....... .. ......... .. ........ .. ......... ... ... ... 9
Battery - inspection and maintenance .... ....................................... 4 Headlight housing - removal and installation................................. 10
Battery - removal and installation ........ .. ......... ... ....... ... ....... .... ....... 3 Horn - check and replacement .. .. .. .. .. .... .. .. .. .... .. .... .. .. .. .. .. ...... .. .... .. 29
Battery electrolyte level sensor (1982 and 1983 models) - Ignition (main) key switch - check, removal and installation.......... 22
check and replacement ....... .. ......... ... ....... ... .... ... .. .......... .. ........ 6 Instrument and warning light bulbs - check and replacement....... 20
Brake light switches - check and replacement.............................. 17 Instrument cluster - removal and installation.............. ................... 18
Charging system (1982 through 1986) - component testing ......... 36 Lighting system - check.. ............................................................... 8
Charging system (1987 and 1988)- component testing................ 37 Meters and gauges - check and replacement ............................... 19
Charging system testing - general information and procedures.... 35 Oil pressure switch - check and replacement................................ 21
Clutch diode - check and replacement.......................................... 30 Starter motor- disassembly, inspection and reassembly.............. 34
Clutch switch -check and replacement ........................................ 31 Starter motor- removal and installation......................................... 33
Coolant reservoir tank level sensor Starter motor clutch - removal, overhaul and
(1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models)- check ............................. 26 installation .................................................................. See Chapter 2
Electrical troubleshooting............................................................... 2 Starter relay - check and replacement.. ......................................... 32
=uel pump relay (11 00 models and 1982 through 1984 700/750 Tail/stop light and license plate light - bulb replacement.... .......... •5
Magna models) - check and replacement................................ 28 Tail/stop light sensor and headlight sensor- check
=uel sender - check.. ........ .............................................................. 27 and replacement ....................................................................- •5
=uses - check and replacement...................... ............................... 7 Turn signal cancelling system - check
3earchange/neutrai/OD switch - replacement .............................. 25 and component replacement.. ...........................................- - -
General information........................................................................ 1 Turn signals - bulb replacement and housing removal
-iandlebar switches - check........................................................... 23 and installation .......................................................... - - - - r 2
-iandlebar switches - removal and installation ........ ............... ....... 24 Turn signals - circuit check and relay replacement ..... 13
8-2 Chapter 8 Electrical system

Specifications

Battery
Capacity
1982 through 1986 700fl50 models ................................................. . 12V,14Ah
1987 and 1988 700/750 models ........................................................ 12V, 12Ah
1100 models ...................................................................................... . 12V, 18Ah

Alternator
Output
750 Sabre models ........................................... ................................. .. 300W at 5000 rpm
700 Sabre models .............................................................................. 350W at 5000 rpm
1982 through 1984 700fl50 Magna models .............. ...................... .. 300W at 5000 rpm
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models .................................................. .. 350W at 5000 rpm
1987 and 1988 700fl50 Magna models .......................................... .. 345W at 5000 rpm
11 00 Sabre models ............................................................................ 350W at 5000 rpm
1100 Magna models .......................................................................... . 300W at 5000 rpm
Charging voltage
11 00 Sabre models .......................................................................... .. 13 to 16 volts
1100 Magna and all 700fl50 models ................................................ . 14 to 15 volts

Starter motor
Brush length
New ................................................................................................ . 12 to 13 mm (0.47 to 0.51 in)
Service limit ........................................................................................ 6.5 mm (0.26 in)

Fuses
Main fuse (on starter relay) ...................................................................... 30A
All other fuses (in fusebox) .................................................................... .. 10A and 15A

Bulb US models UK models

Headlight
1982 750 models (sealed beam) ........................................................ 12V65/45W 12V 60/55W
All other models ................................................................................ . 12V60/55W 12V 60/55W
Position (parking) light ............................................................................. 12V4W
TaiVstop light
1987 and 1988 700fl50 Magna models ............................................ 12V 5/21W 12V 5/21W
All other models ................................................................................ . 12V 8/27W 12V 5/21W
Front tum signal/running lights ............................................................... . 12V23/8W 12V 21/W
Rear tum signal lights .............................................................................. 12V 23W 12V21W
License plate light
1982 through 1986 Magna models .................................................. .. 12V8W
1987 and 1988 700fl50 Magna models .......................................... .. 12V5W 12V5W
11 00 Sabre models .......................................................................... .. 12V 4cp
Instrument illuminating lights
1982 t hrough 1986 models .............................................................. .. 12V3 or3.4W 12V3W
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models .......................................... .. 12V 1.7W 12V 1.7W
Warning lamps ........................................................................................ . 12V3W 12V3W

Torque settings Nm ft-lbs

2
Oil pressure switch
700fl50 Sabres and 1982 through 1984
700/750 Magna models .................................................................... . 15 to 20 11 to 14
1100 models and 1985-on 700fl50 Magna models ........................ .. 10 to 14 7 to 10
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-3

2.5 Simple testing equipment for checking the wiring

A Multimeter 0 Positive probe (+;

B Bulb E Negative probe (-)
C Battery

1 General information connection, as several circuits often are routed through the same fuse
and ground (earth) connections.
The machines covered by this manual are equipped with a 12-volt Electrical problems often stem from simple causes, such as loose
electrical system. The components include a three-phase alternator or corroded connections or a blown fuse. Prior to any electrical
and a regulator/rectifier unit. troubleshooting, always visually check the condition of the fuse, wires
The regulator/rectifier unit maintains the charging system output and connections in the problem circuit. Intermittent failures can be
within the specified range to prevent overcharging and converts the especially frustrating, since you can't always duplicate the failure when
AC (alternating current) output of the alternator to DC (direct current) to it's convenient to test. In such situations, a good practice is to clean all
power the lights and other components and to charge the battery. connections in the affected circuit, whether or not they appear to be
The starting system includes the motor (mounted on the front of good. All of the connections and wires should also be wiggled to check
the crankcase), the battery, the relay and the various wires and for looseness which can cause intermittent failure.
switches. If the engine stop switch and the ignition (main) key switch If testing instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to
are both in the Run or On position, the circuit relay allows the starter plan where you will make the necessary connections in order to
motor to operate only if the transmission is in Neutral or the clutch accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.
lever is pulled to the handlebar. The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a test
Note: Keep in mind that electrical parts, once purchased, can't be light or voltmeter, a continuity tester (which includes a bulb, battery and
returned. To avoid unnecessary expense, make very sure the faulty set of test leads) and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker
-::.""rlponent has been positively identified before buying a replacement incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical components (see
;a:. illustration). Specific checks described later in this Chapter may also
require an ohmmeter. Ideally a multimeter with resistance, current and
voltage measuring facilities should be available.
Electrical troubleshooting Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning
properly. Connect one lead of a test light or voltmeter to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good ground (earth). Connect the
other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, the the battery or fuse. If the bulb lights, voltage is reaching that point, which
cites, relays, etc. related to that component and the wiring and means the part of the circuit between that connector and the battery is
:-----ectors that hook the component to both the battery and the problem-free. Continue checking the remainder of the circuit in the same
.-.:-e. To aid in locating a problem in any electrical circuit, refer to the manner. When you reach a point where no voltage is present, the
'4 diagrams at the end of this Chapter.
problem lies between there and the last good test point. Most of the time
3efore tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the the problem is due to a loose connection. Keep in mind that some S
-:-opriate diagrams thoroughly to get a complete picture of what circuits only receive voltage when the ignition key is in the On position.
zs up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often One method of finding short circuits is to remove the fuse and
= wed down by noting if other components related to that circuit connect a test light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals. There
:::oerating properly or not. If several components or circuits fail at should be no load in the circuit (it should be switched off). Move the
-ne, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or ground (earth) wiring harness from side-to-side while watching the test light. If the
8-4 Chapter 8 Electrical system

directed to the frame ground (earth) where it is passe-:

battery. Electrical problems are basically an interruptJo.-
electricity from the battery or back to it.

3 Battery - removal and installation

Removal
700/750 Sabre models
Refer to illustration 3.2
1 Remove the right side cover and seat (see Chapter 6
2 Loosen the two nuts on the battery hold down ca-.-
lower ends can be disengaged from the battery suppor.
illustration).
3 Disconnect the negative battery cable first, folio _
positive cable.
4 On 1982 and 1983 750 models, disconnect the wire =-a-
electrolyte level sensor on top of the battery.
5 Disconnect the vent hose from its side and withdraw ;:.'""'€
1982 through 1984 Magna models
3.2 Battery clamp is held by two nuts on 700/750 Sabres Refer to illustration 3.8
6 Remove the right side cover and seat (see Chapter 6).
7 Disconnect the negative battery cable first, follov.e-::
bulb lights, there is a short to ground (earth) somewhere in that area, positive cable.
probably where insulation has rubbed off a wire. The same test can be 8 Loosen the battery holder bolt and dislodge the batter
performed on other components in the circuit, including the switch. (see illustration).
A ground (earth) check should be done to see if a component is 9 Disconnect the vent hose from its side and withdraw tl'e
grounded (earthed) properly. Disconnect the battery and connect one
lead of a self-powered test light (continuity tester) to a known good 1985 through 1988 Magna models
ground (earth). Connect the other lead to the wire or ground (earth) 10 Remove the seats (see Chapter 6).
connection being tested. If the bulb lights, the ground (earth) is good. If 11 Disconnect the negative battery cable first, followec
the bulb does not light, the ground (earth) is not good. positive cable.
A continuity check is performed to see if a circuit, section of 12 Release the battery holder plate bolts (1985/86 models :::
circuit or individual component is capable of passing electricity (1987/88 models), disconnect the vent hose and lift the bar.e--
through it. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self- the frame.
powered test light (continuity tester) to one end of the circuit being
1100 Sabre models
tested and the other lead to the other end of the circuit. If the bulb
lights, there is continuity, which means the circuit is passing electricity 13 Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 6).
through it properly. Switches can be checked in the same way. 14 Remove the bolt from the battery holder strap.
Remember that all electrical circuits are designed to conduct 15 Disconnect the negative battery cable first, followeo :
electricity from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, etc. to positive cable.
the electrical component (light bulb, motor, etc.). From there it is 16 Disconnect the vent hose from its side and withdraw the

GROUND CABLE POSITIVE CABLE

BATTERY HOLDER

3.8 Battery on 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas

 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-5

5 Battery - charging
1100 Magna models
· - Remove the right side cover and seat (see Chapter 6). If the machine sits idle for extended periods or if the charging
• 3 Disconnect the negative battery cable first, followed by the system malfunctions, the battery can be charged from an external
-.;.sitive cable. source.
- "''flnect the wire connectors from the regulator/rectifier unit, 2 To properly charge the battery, you will need a charger of the
= :s · o retaining bolts to free the regulator/rectifier unit correct rating, an hydrometer, a clean rag and a syringe for adding
;.-.JS will allow access for battery removal. distilled water to the battery cells.
Aemove the battery holder bolt and swing the bracket clear. 3 The maximum charging rate for any battery is 1/10 of the rated
Jlsconnect the vent hose from its side and withdraw the battery. amp/hour capacity. As an example, the maximum charging rate for a
14 amp/hour battery would be 1.4 amps. If the battery is charged at a
Installation higher rate, it could be damaged.
21 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the 4 Do not allow the battery to be subjected to a so called quick
'allowing: charge (high rate of charge over a short period of time) unless you are
a) Be sure the battery vent hose is properly routed (see label prepared to buy a new battery.
attached to motorcycle frame) and not kinked. 5 When charg1ng the battery, always remove it from the machine
b) Connect the negative cable last and ensure that the protective and be sure to check the electrolyte level before hooking up the
cover is installed over the positive terminal. charger. Add d1st ed Nater to any cells that are low.
6 Loosen the ce caps. hook up the battery charger leads (red to
positive, black to negative), cover the top of the battery with a clean rag,
4 Battery - inspection and maintenance then, and only then, plug in the battery charger. Caution: Remember,
the gas escaping from a charging battery is explosive, so keep open
Most battery damage is caused by heat, vi bration, and/or low flames and sparks we away from the area. Also, the electrolyte is
electrolyte levels, so keep the battery securely mounted, check the extremely cofTOSIVe and will damage anything it comes in contact with.
electrolyte level frequently and make sure the charging system is 7 Allow the battery to charge until the specific gravity is as specified
functioning properly. (refer to Chapter 1 for specific gravity checking procedures). The
2 Refer to Chapter 1 for electrolyte level and specific gravity charger must be unplugged and disconnected from the battery when
checking procedures. making spec1f1c grav1~ checks. If the battery overheats or gases
3 Check around the base of the battery for sediment, which is the excessively, the charg,ng rate is too high. Eit her disconnect the
result of sulfation caused by low electrolyte levels. These deposits will charger or lower the charging rate to prevent damage to the battery.
cause internal short circuits, which can quickly discharge the battery. 8 If one or more of the cells do not show an increase in specific
Look for cracks in the case and replace the battery if either of these gravity after a long slow charge, or if the battery as a whole does not
conditions is found. seem to want to take a charge, it is time for a new battery.
4 Check the battery term inals and cable ends for tightness and 9 When the battery IS fully charged, unplug the charger first, then
corrosion. If corrosion is evident, remove the cables from the battery disconnect the leads ~om the battery. Install the cell caps and wipe
and clean the terminals and cable ends with a wire brush or a knife and any electrolyte off the outs1de of the battery case.
emery cloth. Reconnect the cables and apply a thin coat of petroleum
jelly to the connections to slow further corrosion.
5 The battery case should be kept clean to prevent current leakage, 6 Battery electrolyte level sensor (1982 and 1983 750
which can discharge the battery over a period of time (especially when Sabre models) - check and replacement
it sits unused). Wash the outside of the case with a solution of baking
soda and water. Do not get any baking soda solution in the battery Refer to illustrations 6.2 and 6.3
cells. Rinse the battery thoroughly, then dry it. 1 Remove the right side cover and seat (see Chapter 6).
6 If acid has been spilled on the frame or battery box, neutralize it 2 Disconnect the se11sor wiring lead and unplug the sensor from the
with the baking soda and water solution, dry it thoroughly, then touch battery (see illustration). Wipe any electrolyte off the sensor.
up any damaged paint. Make sure the battery vent tube is directed 3 Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the tip of
away from the frame and is not kinked or pinched. the sensor and its wiring lead (see illustration). A reading of 680 ohms
7 If the motorcycle sits unused for long periods of time, refer to should be obtained; if widely different from this, the sensor is
Section 5 and charge the battery approximately once every month. defective.
8-6 Chapter 8 Electrical system

7.1 Main fuse is located in starter relay (arrow)

7.2b Fusebox location on 1982 through 1984

700/750 Magnas

1 Fusebox 3 Spare fuse

2 Fuses

7 Fuses - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 7.1, 7.2a, 7.2b and 7.2c

Caution: Turn the ignition (main) key switch Off prior to checking or
replacing fuses, to prevent accidental short-circuiting.
1 The main fuse is housed in the starter relay, next to the battery.
Unclip the cover to reveal the fuse (see illustration). Early models use
a ribbon-type fuse wire which is retained by two screws, whereas a
plug-in type fuse is fitted to later models.
2 The circuit fuses are housed in a fusebox; refer to the wiring
diagrams for the circuits protected. On 700/750 Sabre models the
'usebox is located behind the left side cover, above the toolbox (see
i!lustration). On 1982 through 1984 700/750 Magnas it is beneath the
seat on the rear fender, next to the spark units, and on later M.::gnas it
IS ooder the right side cover (see illustrations). The fusebox on 1100
mooels is situated under a cover between the horns; release the cover
s:::re ',or access. In all cases, the circuits protected are listed on the
:JSC:OOx Note: On certain Magna models, the cooling fan fuse is
l:o:Jsec r. ar> n-Ine fuseholder on the fan wiring.
3 =-,;: tuseoo)( fuses are of the glass cartridge type on early models
er:l;; ab;-~ ;ype or> ater models. Slide the glass cartridge type out of
:: -; ~ :::s to remove, and pu ll the plug-in type out with the terminals with any other substitute, however temporary it may be.
~-or $:...'1Q me plastic gripper provided. Fuse ratings differ Serious damage may be done to the circuit, or a fire may start. S~
ru.."::s - a ays replace a fuse with one of the same fuses of each rating are located in the fusebox, and a spare main fuse
=
iir.::::P--o::.oa_ Caution: He rer put rn a fuse of a higher rating or bridge the is clipped to the base of the starter relay. If the spare fuses are usee.
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-7

9.1 Headlight details (70onso Sabres)

always replace them so that a spare fuse of each rating is carried on Neutral indicator light- 1987 and 1988 700/750
the machine at all times.
4 It a fuse blows, be sure to check the wiring circuit very carefully
Magna models
for evidence of a short- circuit. Look for bare wires and chafed, melted 6 If the neutral light fails to operate when the transmission is in
or burned insulation. If a fuse is replaced before the cause is located, Neutral, check the fuses and the bulb (see Sections 7 and 20). If the
the new fuse will blow immediately. bulb and fuses are in good condition, check for battery voltage at the
5 Occasionally a fuse will blow or cause an open-circuit for no light green/red wire attached to the neutral switch. If battery voltage is
obvious reason. Corrosion of the fuse ends and fusebox terminals may present, refer to Section 25 for the neutral switch check and
occur and cause poor fuse contact. If this happens, remove the replacement procedures.
corrosion with a wire brush or emery paper, then spray the fuse end 7 If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring between the switch
and terminals with electrical contact cleaner. and the bulb for open-circuits and poor connections.

OD (overdrive) indicator light - 1982 through

8 Lighting system - check 1986 7001750 Magna models
8 If the 00 light fails to operate when the transmission is in top
The battery provides power for operation of the headlight, taillight,
gear, check the fuses and the bulb (see Sections 7 and 20). If the bulb
:xake stop light, license plate light (where fitted) and instrument cluster
and fuses are in good condition, check for battery voltage at the
'Qhts. If none of the lights operate, always check battery voltage before
green/orange wire attached to the neutral/00 switch. If battery voltage
:lfoceeding. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery or a
is present, refer to Section 25 for the neutral/00 switch check and
:1efective charging system. Refer to Section 4 for battery checks and
replacement procedures.
Section 36 or 37 for charging system tests. Also, check the condition of
9 If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring between the switch
;;w fuses and replace any blown fuses with new ones.
and the bulb for open-circuits and poor connections.
Headlight
If the headlight is out when the engine is running (US models) or it 9 Headlight bulb and position light (UK models only)
"''Ol't switch on (UK models), check the fuse first with the key On (see bulb - replacement
5ection 7), then unplug the electrical connector for the headlight and
..se jumper wires to connect the bulb directly to the battery terminals. If
-:-e light comes on, the problem lies in the wiring or one of the switches Headlight
- the circuit. Refer to Section 23 for the switch testing procedures, Note: The head/amp bulb is of the quartz-halogen type. Do not touch
31d also the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter. the bulb glass as skin acids will shorten the bulb's service life. If the
bulb is accidentally touched, it should be wiped carefully when cold
ail light and license plate light with a rag soaked in stoddard solvent (denatured alcohol) and dried
If the taillight fails to work, check the bulbs and the bulb terminals before fitting. Allow the bulb time to cool before removing it if the
"-st. then check for battery voltage at the taillight electrical connector. headlight has been used.
o'Oitage is present, check the ground (earth) circuit for an open or
:oar connection. Sabre models
If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring between the taillight Refer to illustration 9. 1
d the ignition main (key) switch, then check the switch. On UK 1 Remove the two screws (700n5o models) or single screw (11 00 8
-odels, check the lighting switch as well. models) at the bottom of the headlight housing. Ease the headlight out
of its housing at the bottom edge and disengage the two tabs at the
3rake light top (see illustration).
See Section 17 for the brake light switch checking procedure. 2 As the headlight is withdrawn, disconnect the wiring connector
from the rear of the bulb.
8-8 Chapter 8 Electrical system

3 On all models except the US 1982 750 model, peel back the dust
cover and release the headlight bulb retainer. Lift the bulb out via its
wire connector tabs - don't touch the glass (see above Note).
4 The US 1982 750 model has a sealed-beam headlight in which
the bulb is not removable. Remove the two screws that attach the rear
retaining ring to the headlight rim, then separate them to free the
sealed beam unit.
5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Reset the
headlight aim where the adjuster screw setting has been disturbed.

Magna models
Refer to illustration 9.6
6 Remove the two screws (round headlight) or single screw
(rectangular headlight) from the lower part of the headlight housing
(see illustration).
7 Ease the headlight out of its housing at the bottom and disengage
the tab at the top, then disconnect the wiring from the rear of the bulb.
8 On all models except the US 1982 750 model, peel back the dust
cover and release the headlight bulb retainer. Lift the bulb out via its
wire connector tabs - don't touch the glass (see above Note).
9 The US 1982 750 model has a sealed-beam headlight in which
the bulb is not removable. Mark the position of the headlight adjusting
screw by applying a small dot of paint on its threads where it exits the
locknut, then remove the adjusting screw, spring, washer and nut.
Remove the two screws that attach the rear retaining ring to the
headlight rim, then separate them to free the sealed beam unit. 9.6 Headlight details (early 700n50 Magnas)
10 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Reset the
headlight aim where the adjuster screw setting has been disturbed.

Position (parking) light (UK models only)

11 Remove the headlamp from the housing as described above.
12 Pull the bulbholder out from the base of the headlight. Twist the
bulb counterclockwise (anticlockwise) to release it from its holder.
13 Insert the new bulb and t wist it clockwise to secure it, then push
the bulbholder into the headlight unit.

10 Headlight housing- removal and installation

1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models

Refer to illustration 10.3
1 Remove the headlight as described in Section 9.
2 Loosen the instrument cluster pivot bolts and tilt the cluster to the
rear, toward the fuel tank.
3 Remove the three headlight housing mounting screws. One is
located on the top, one on the bottom and one in the rear (see
illustration). Remove the headlight housing. As the housing is lifted
off, carefully withdraw the wiring and connectors out the rear opening. 10.3 Headlight housing mounting points {1982/83 Sabres)
4 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Carry out aim
adjustment on completion (see Section 11 ).

All other models

11 Headlight aim - check and adjustment
5 Remove the headlight as described in Section 9.
6 Release the wiring inside the housing from any ties so that it is
able to pass through the access hole in the rear of the housing. Unplug An improperly adjusted headlight may cause problems ICY
tne wire connectors from the turn signal relay and running light relay on oncoming traffic or provide poor, unsafe illumination of the road aheac:
1100 Sabre models. Before adjusting the headlight, be sure to consult with local traffic laws
1 On 1982 through 1986 models, remove the two headlight housing and regulations.
mounting bolts from the front turn signal mount brackets and retrieve 2 The headlight beam can be adjusted both vertically an:
~·COllars and nuts (where fitted). As the housing is lifted off, carefully horizontally. Before performing the adjustment, make sure the fuel tane
:XJ..'Cit\1 the wiring and connectors out the rear opening. On 1987 and is at least half full, and have an assistant sit on the seat.
• 93B ',1agna models, remove the two nuts and through-bolts at the
:.a.se o' tile housing , then lift the housing off its bracket; note the 1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models
::dars a."ld spacer on the through-bolts. Refer to illustrations 11.3 and 11.4
ns:.a.oation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Carry out aim 3 Vertical adjustment is made via the screw located to the right SlOe
~~or completion (see Section 11). of the instrument cluster (see illustration).
4 Horizontal adjustment is made by turning the screw located to IrE
rear of the headlight housing on the left side {see illustration).
 Chapte r 8 Electric al system 8-9

12 Turn signals- bulb replacem ent and housing removal

and installati on

Turn signal bulbs

On 1100 Sabre models, remove the single screw from the base of
the turn signal and pull the lens off. On all other models, remove the
three screws from the lens (1982 through 1986 models) or rear of the
turn signal (1987 and 1988 models), and pull the lens and gasket off.
2 Push the bulb into the holder and twist it counterclo ckwise
(anticlockwise) to remove it. Check the socket terminals for corrosion
and clean them if necessary . Line up the pins of the new bulb with the
slots in the socket, push in and turn the bulb clockwise until it locks
into place. The double filament bulbs of US models with front running
lights have offset pins to ensure correct installation. Note: It is a good
idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when handling the new bulb to
prevent injury if the bulb should break and to increase bulb life.
3 Fit the lens, together with the seal on all models except the 11 00
11.3 Headlight aim vertical adjustmen t (1982/83 Sabres) Sabre, and secure with the screw(s).

Turn signal housing s

4 Trace the wiring from the tum signal to the wire connectors and
disconnect them. In the case of the front turn signals the connectors
will be found in the headlight housing or connector box behind the
horns. Remove the seat to access the rear turn signal wire connectors.
5 To remove the turn signal housing from the flexible support,
remove the single screw from the back of the housing, and pull the
housing and wires off. If removal of the flexible support is required,
unscrew its retaining nut on the inside of the tum signal mount bracket
(front) or frame (rear). On 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models, the
front mounting takes the form of a clamp around the fork tubes. If
removal is required, remove the forks (see Chapter 5) to permit the
clamps to be released.
6 Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure. Check that the
turn signals (and running lights on US models) operate correctly before
riding the motorcycle.

11.4 Headlight aim horizontal adjustmen t (1982/83 Sabres)

13 Turn signals- circuit check and relay replacem ent

Circuit check
1982 and 1983 750 Magna models
The battery provides power for operation of the signal lights, so if
5 Adjust vertically by loosening the headlight housing-to-turn signal they do not operate, always check the battery voltage first. Low battery
mount bracket bolts and manually twisting the housing up or down. voltage indicates either a faulty battery or a defective charging system.
6 Use the adjuster screw set in headlight rim, adjacent to the Refer to Section 4 for battery checks and Section 36 or 37 for charging
housing left mount point, to make horizontal adjustment. Turn the system tests. Also, check the fuses (see Section 7) and the switch (see
screw clockwise to move the beam to the right of the rider, and Section 23).
counterclockwise (anticlockwise) to move it to the left. 2 Most turn signal problems are the result of a burned out bulb or
corroded socket. This is especially true when the turn signals function
1100 models and 1984 through 1986 700 models properly in one direction, but fail to flash in the other direction. Check
7 Adjust vertically by loosening the headlight housing-to-turn signal the bulbs and the sockets (see Section 12).
mount bracket bolts and manually twisting the housing up or down. 3 If the bulbs and sockets check out okay, check for power at the
Tighten the bolts once adjustment has been made. turn signal relay with the ignition On. Refer to wiring diagrams at the
8 Horizontal adjustment is made by loosening the two bolts which end of the book to identify the power source terminal.
connect the headlight housing to the short angled link brackets. These 4 If power is present, check the wiring between the relay and the
are accessed from the top rear of the housing and once loosened, will turn signal lights (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).
allow movement of the housing independe nt of the link brackets. 5 If the wiring checks out okay, replace the turn signal relay.
Tighten the bolts once adjustment has been made. 6 If there is a fault in the self-cancelling function (where fitted), refer
to the following Section.
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
9 Vertical adjustment is made via the screw set in the lower left side Relay replace ment
of the headlight rim (left described with the rider seated normally). Refer to illustrations 13. 7 and 13.8
10 Horizontal adjustment is made via the screw set in the lower right 7 The turn signal relay on early models takes the form of a
side of the headlight rim. cylindrical unit, and a black square unit on later models. It s located
11 Do not confuse the adjustmen t screws with the two headlight behind the right side cover to the rear of the battery on ear Sabre
retaining screws set in the base of the housing. 1
models or under the seat on early Magna models (see illustration ).
8-10 Chapter 8 Electrical system

8 On later 700 Sabre models it is located behind the right side

cover, next to the rear frame tube. On later 700/750 Magnas it is
located behind the left side cover (see illustration). On 1100 Magna
models it is located under the right side cover, behind the rear brake
fluid reservoir. On 11 00 Sabre models, the relay is housed in the
headlight housing; remove the headlight for access (see Section 9).
9 Disconnect the turn signal relay from its rubber mount and detach
the wire connectors. Install a new relay and check the turn signals for
proper operation.

14 Turn signal cancelling system- check and component

replacement

1 If the cancelling system is not working properly, first make sure

that all wiring is in good condition and that all connectors are clean and
tight. Check the turn signal bulbs and fuses (see Section 12).

1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models, 1983 and

1984 1100 Magna models
Refer to illustrations 14.4, 14. 7, 14. 13 and 14.20
Turn signal switch testing
Angle sensor testing 7 Remove the seat (1982 750 models), or the front cover on the
2 While turning the front wheel from right to left, watch the angle right side of the machine next to the radiator (1983 750 models) <Y
sensor, visually checking for any apparent wear, damage or looseness. connector box cover behind the horns (11 00 models) and disconnec:
3 On 750 models, remove the odometer assembly as described in the wiring connector leading to the cancel unit Turn the ignition (mCW'
Section 18 and locate the angle sensor wires at the top of the steering key switch On. Move the turn signal switch to the L (left) turn positior
stem. On 1100 models, locate the angle sensor wire connectors in the and connect an insulated jumper wire between the blue/black anc
electrical connector box behind the horns. On all models, connect the brown/blue lead terminals on the harness side of the connector (see
ohmmeter between the black/yellow and green/white wires to measure illustration). When this is done, the turn signal switch should return t:
the resistance. It should be 10 to 19 ohms. the middle (neutral) position.
t. Next remove the rear sensor mounting screw (see illustration). 8 Repeat the test with the switch in the R (right) turn position, ther
Check the resistance between the white and green/white wires as you turn the ignition (main) key switch Off. If the switch does not operate as
slOwly turn the sensor arm from left to right. As this is done, the described, it should be replaced. Refer to Section 24 for removal of the
reSstance should increase smoothly. If the results from either of these left handlebar switch assembly.
~are not as described, the sensor should be replaced with a new
.:n:. Speed sensor - 750 Sabre models
"' - o •eplace the angle sensor on 750 models, remove the two 9 Disconnect the cancel unit wiring connector (see Step 7) ai'C
s:::r: -s re:iillling the odometer assembly to the top of the steering using a multi meter set to the ohms range, check for continuity betweer
~ ~-. t:-.e assembly up far enough to disconnect the wires running the white/black and green wire terminals on the harness side of tnt
0.:: ~ stem. Remove the three screws that retain the angle connector while spinning the front wheel slowly. Continuity shou c
I9!I:Sr to t:<= oo::om of the steering stem and withdraw it Installation switch on and off alternately. s
_ ~:.e a! ~'"\e removal procedure. 10 If this does not happen, remove the headlight and disconnect the
-s:::'X:Jl:-c! ~r-e sensor wires in the electrical connector box speed sensor wiring connector inside the headlight housing. Aga-
: :::;or;;- -"1Ci'u the cover between the handlebar clamps, and spin the wheel slowly while measuring the resistance between tr: s
..._~ o --~ connector box. Remove the three screws that speed sensor terminals.
': a'l. : sc-.sor ~o the bottom of the steering stem and 11 If continuity still does not alternate off and on, replace the speec
c =:::!lll· - -ce reverse of the removal procedure. sensor. If alternating continuity exists at this point, but not at the
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-11
f

14.7 When testing the turn signal switch, use a jumper wire to 14.13 Replace the 0-ring (arrow) whenever speed sensor
connect the specified terminals is removed (750 Sabre}

speedometer; if it is proven faulty, the speedometer unit must be

replaced.

Cancel unit
19 There is no specific testing procedure for the cancel unit. If the
angle sensor, turn signal switch, and speed sensor are all operating
normally, and there are no open or short circuits, then the cancel unit
should be replaced with a new one.
20 To replace the cancel unit on 1982 750 Sabre models, first
remove the regulator/rectifier as described in Section 36. Disconnect
the wiring connector leading to the cancel unit. Remove the left side
cover. Open the toolbox and reach inside the upper compartment to
disengage the cancel unit housing frame retainers. Hinge the cancel
frame up until the unit can be pulled out (see illustration}. Installation
is the reverse of the removal procedure. When reconnecting the cancel
unit frame to the toolbox, slide the unit into the frame, hinge the frame
down and engage the retainers using a screwdriver.
21 On 1983 750 Sabre models, the cancel unit is mounted to the
14.20 Turn signal cancel unit location on the 1982 750 Sabre electrical components bracket on the right side of the frame. Remove
the frame front cover for access, unbolt the components bracket and
release the cancel unit from its rear face.
cancel unit connector, an open circuit exists in the wiring between the 22 To replace the cancel unit on 1100 Magna models, remove the
two components. electrical connector box behind the horns. The cancel unit is located in
12 To replace the speed sensor, remove the headlight (see Section 9), the left side of the box (described in the normal riding position). Unplug
then locate the sensor wire connectors in the headlight housing and its wire connector and release it from the mounting tab.
disconnect them. Free the wiring from any ties.
13 Remove the single mounting screw that retains the speed sensor 1100 Sabre models and 19851861100 Magna
to the front wheel and lift it free. The 0-ring should be replaced models
whenever the sensor is removed (see illustration). Refer to illustrations 14.34 and 14.36
14 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Turn signal switch
Speed sensor - 1983 and 1984 1100 Magna models 23 On Sabre models, remove the electrical connector cover from
15 Disconnect the cancel unit wiring connector (see Step 7) and between the horns; it is retained by two socket-head bolts at the top.
using a multimeter set to the ohms range, check for continuity between There is no need to remove the cover/horn assembly, but support it so
the white/black and green wire terminals on the harness side of the that no strain is placed on the wiring. On Magna models, remove the
connector while spinning the front wheel slowly. Continuity should single screw from the fusebox cover and remove the cover. Detach the
switch on and off alternately. wiring from the back of the horns and remove the central mounting bolt
16 If this does not happen, access the white/black wire which exits the bracket to detach the horn assembly from the motorcycle. Remove the
base of the speedometer and the green wire ground (earth) tab. If the wiring connector box cover.
instruments have to be detached to access these wires, note that the 24 On all models, identify the turn signal switch wire connec-.04".
speedometer cable. 11ust remain connected. Again spin the wheel slowly dislodge it from the bracket and separate it. Make the fol 0\·. ~ es:s ~---l
while measuring the resistance between the speed sensor terminals. on the switch side of the connector.
17 If continuity still does not alternate on and off, replace the speed 25 With the switch knob in the R (right position) chad- 'Of ~ 8
sensor/speedometer. If alternating continuity exists at this point, but between the brown/blue and orange/white wires, ther be =:- t:;e
not at the cancel unit connector, an open circuit exists in the wiring gray and light blue wires - continuity should be sho .....
between the two components. 26 With the switch knob in the L (left position ctec;: :x oor::::=:: f
18 The speed sensor takes the forrn of a reed switch built into the between the brown/blue and light blue/white .. res rlEn o.:~ .... :
8-12 Chapter 8 Electrical system
..
VOLTMETER TURN SIGNAL RELAY

H 282oS
CONTINUITY
14.34 Turn signal relay test (11 00 Sabres and TESTER
1985/861100 Magnas)
14.36 Running light relay test (11 00 Sabres and
1985/861100 Magnas)
gray and orange wires - continuity should be shown.
27 On Sabre models only, with the switch knob in the middle
position check for continuity between the brown/ blue and
orange/white wires, then between the brown/ blue and light blue/white
wires - continuity should be shown. Hold the knob fully to the left or
right, and check for continuity between the green and light green/white
wires - continuity should be shown.
Angle sensor/cancel unit
28 While turning the front wheel from right to left, watch the angle
sensor, visually checking for any apparent wear, damage or looseness.
29 Remove the headlight (see Section 9) to access the cancel unit
wire connector. Turn the ignition (main) key switch On and connect the
probes of a O-to-20V de voltmeter into the back of the connector (don't
separate it) terminals carrying the blue/ black and green wires - a
reading of BV should be shown.
30 Move the turn signal knob to the L or R position and note the
meter reading - voltage should drop to 1V. Now push the switch knob
to cancel the turn signals - voltage should rise to BV.
31 If the angle sensor does not produce the correct voltage readings 15.2 Tail/stop light bulbholders are accessed
it must be replaced. Disconnect its wire connector, pry off the cover from inside tailpiece
between the handlebar clamps, then free the wiring. Remove the single
support bracket screw and the two angle sensor mount screws from
the base of the steering stem, withdraw the cancel unit from the
normal riding position). On Magna models the relay is located in :.-- _
steering stem.
connector box (behind the horns). Unplug the relay wiring connec.:y
Turn signal relay and pull the relay of its mounting tab.
32 On Sabre models, remove the headlight (see Section 9). The turn 36 To test, connect a multimeter or continuity tester between ~~ _
signal relay is located on the right side of the housing (as in the normal light blue/white and orange/white wi re terminals of the relay, tl'e--
"ding position). On Magna models, remove the right side cover; the connect a fully-charged 12V battery across the blue/ black a~:
relay is located behind the rear brake fluid reservoir. brown/blue wire terminals (Sabre models) or blue/ black a~:
33 Connect an insulated jumper wire into the back of the relay white/green wire terminals (M agna models). With the batte--
t::.Or"lector terminal for the blue/black wire and ground (earth) its other connected continuity should be shown, and no continuity (infin ·~
a-.c or :ne frame. Turn the ignition On - the turn signals should light up resistance) with it disconnected (see illustration).
:-"'":SSion must be in neutral position). 37 If the relay does not respond as described, it must be replaced.
e~ don't, leave th e jumper wire connector, and check for
-~ a: ale grey wire terminal of the relay (see illustration). If no
snown, the relay must be replaced. Turn the ignition Off,
15 Tail/stop light and license plate- bulb replacement
cs:or.,....a:; u<e wire connectors from the relay and pull the relay off its
Tail/stop light bulbs
Sabre models
- 5.:..::>re '"""'OOe s. remove the headlight (see Section 9); the Refer to illustration 15.2
loc:cr.ed on the left side of the housing (as in the 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 6). Disengage the too1c:
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-13
10 Install the sealing ring in its groove, followed by the lens; secure
with the two screws. Check the operation of the taiVstop light before
riding the motorcycle.

1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models

Refer to illustration 15. 11
11 Remove the license plate bracket bolts and tilt the bracket
rearwards (see illustration).
12 Remove the three socket-head screws to release the tail/stop
light cover. Remove the two screws at the top edge of the tens and
withdraw the lens, disengaging its lower tabs from the slots in the light
unit. Recover the sealing ring.
13 Remove and install the new bulb as described in Step 3.
14 Install the sealing ring in its groove and slot the tens lower tabs into
the cutouts in the light unit, then tighten the lens screws securely. Install
the remaining components in a reverse of the removal procedure.
15 Check the operation of the tail/stop lights and license plate tight
before riding the motorcycle.

1100 Magna models

16 Remove the seat (see Chapter 6).
17 Open the toolbox and remove the contents. Remove the toolbox
to access the tail/stop lamp bulbholder.
18 Twist the bulbholder free of the light unit. Remove and install the
new bulb as described in Step 3.
19 Install the bulbholder, toolbox and seat in a reverse of the removal
sequence.

License plate light bulb

1982 through 1986 700/750 Magna models
20 Remove the seat (see Chapter 6) and toolbox.
21 Remove the two nuts and withdraw the light unit cover, lens and
15.11 Tail/stop light and license plate light detail (1987 and gasket. Twist the bulb counterclockwise (anticlockwise) to release it
1988 7oonso Magnas) from its holder.
22 Install the new bulb and twist it clockwise to secure it in the holder.
1 License plate bracket 4 Tail/stop light cover Install the remaining components in a reverse of the removal procedure.
2 License plate lens 5 Tail/stop light lens 23 Check the operation of the license plate light before riding the
3 License plate bulb 6 Tail/stop light bulbs motorcycle.

1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models

:l remove it. 24 Remove the license plate.
If only the bulbs (700n5o models) or bulb (11 00 models) need to 25 Remove the two bolts located just beneath the license light,
" •eplaced, it is possible, though difficult, to twist the bulb socket(s) noting that they screw into nuts on the underside of the fender. Tilt the
• and replace the bulbs (see illustration). license plate bracket rearwards from the fender being careful not to
Push the bulb into the holder and twist it counterclockwise (anti- lose the two cottars.
. :!(Wise) to remove it. Check the socket terminals for corrosion and 26 Remove the two nuts from the rear of the license light and
.,.a.1 them if necessary. Une up the pins of the new bulb with the slots in withdraw the lens (see illustration 15.11). Twist the bulb counter-
~ socket, push in and tum the bulb clockwise until it locks into place. clockwise (anticlockwise) to release it from its holder.
:=-e: The pins on the bulb are offset so it can only be installed one way. 27 Install the new bulb and twist it clockwise to secure it in the
a good idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when handling the new holder. Install the remaining components in a reverse of the removal
~ to prevent injury if the bulb should break and to increase bulb life. procedure.
The other method is to remove the entire taillight assembly as 28 Check the operation of the license plate light before riding the
~ bed below. Disconnect the wiring connectors leading to the tail motorcycle.
oulbs.
8emove the three tail light assembly mounting screws/nuts from 1100 Sabre models
:e of the tail piece and then withdraw the taillight assembly from 29 Refer to Steps 1 through 7 above, noting that the bulb holder is
ear of the motorcycle. located just under the tail/stop light bulbholder.
-,e taillight assembly is not designed to be disassembled and, if
~ry. should be replaced as a single unit.
1100 Magna models
1stallation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Check the
H--~"' n of the taiVstop light bulb(s) before riding the motorcycle.
30 Remove the two screws from the light unit and withdraw the
cover, lens and gasket.
S2 through 1986 700/750 Magna models
31 Depress the bulb and twist it counterclockwise (anticlockwise) to 8
release it from its holder. Install a new bulb, pushing it down and
=~emove the two screws that retain the tail/stop light tens and tift rotating it clockwise to lock it in place.
--= ens. Recover the sealing ring. 32 Check the operation of the license plate light before riding the
=emove and install the new bulb as described in Step 3. motorcycle.
8-14 Electrical system

16.2 Tail/stop light sensor (arrow) is 16.3 Checking for battery voltage at the Headlight sensor (arrow) location
located on rear fender (750 Sabre shown) tail/stop light sensor connector on 1982 750 Sabre

between the white/red (positive) and green/black (negative) wires.

16 Tail/stop light sensor and headlight sensor- check should be 3 to 7 volts. If the voltage is not correct, replace the senSCY
and replacement with a new one.

Tail/stop light sensor- 1982 through 1986 17 Brake light switches - check and replacement
Magnas, 1982/83 750 Sabres and a/11100
Sabres Circuit check
Refer to illustrations 16.2 and 16.3 Refer to illustration 17.3
1 On Magna models and 1100 Sabre models, the tail/stop light 1 Before checking any electrical circuit, check the bulb (see Secti<r
failure warning bulb should come on for a few seconds when the 15) and fuses (see Section 7).
ignition is turned on and then extinguish unless a fault is indicated. If 2 Using a test light connected to a good ground (earth), check to-
the warning light doesn't come on, check the warning light bulb in the voltage at the brake light switch wiring connector (see Step 8 for thE
instrument cluster and the wiring. On 1983-on Magna models also rear brake light switch). If there's no voltage present, check the w1re
check the pilot light check unit wiring, and as a last resort replace the between the switch and the fusebox for breakage (see the wirin;
check unit. The check unit is housed inside the toolbox on 1985/86 diagrams at the end of this Chapter).
700 Magnas and on the rear fender on all other models. 3 To check the switch function, disconnect the wires from tl'€
2 If the warning light bulb remains illuminated (11 00 Sabres and all switch and using an ohmmeter or self-powered test light connect tr.e
Magnas) or the display indicates a fault (750 Sabres), first check that probes between the switch terminals (front) or wire connections IY
the tail/stop light bulbs are intact, then check the unit as follows. Note: switch side of the connector (rear) {see illustration). Continuity shol.Jic
The manufacturer does not specify a test procedure for the 1985/86 be shown with the lever or pedal applied, and no continuity (infiMe
700 Magna models; the unit can only be checked by substitution. resistance) with it released .
Locate the sensor wiring connector, but do not disconnect it. Remove 4 If the switch checks out OK, check the wiring between the switct"
the seat and use the wiring diagrams at the end of this manual to and the brake lights (see the wiring diagrams at the end of th s
identify the sensor wire color codes {see illustration). Chapter).
3 Use a voltmeter to check the voltage between the black/brown
lead and ground (earth), with the ignition (main) key switch On {see Switch replacement
illustration). If no voltage is shown, current is not reaching the sensor
and the open circuit must be corrected. Front brake lever switch
4 If voltage was shown in the previous test, measure the voltage 5 Pull back on the front brake lever and remove the single swit~
between the white/yellow (positive) and green/yellow (negative) wires. mounting screw.
It should show 5 volts. If no voltage is shown, the sensor is defective 6 Disconnect the switch from the wire connectors.
and must be replaced with a new one. 7 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Wher
installing the switch, pull back on the front brake lever to be sure tt>e
Headlight failure sensor- 1982 and 1983 750 locating slot is in the right place. The brake lever switch is11 •
adjustable.
Sabre models
Refer to illustrations 16.6 and 16. 7 Rear brake pedal switch
5 If the warning unit indicates a fault first check the headlight bulb. 8 Trace the wiring up from the switch to the block connecto·
• i!le bulb is intact, check the unit as follows. located under the right side cover on 1985-on 700/750 Magna modetS
6 On the 1982 model, remove the fuel tank and locate the headlight or under the seat on all other models. Disconnect the connector arc
sensor {see illustration). On the 1983 model, the sensor is mounted release the wiring from any ties.
::.e~ nd the horns. Trace the wiring from the sensor to the block 9 Disconnect the spring from the switch (it may be easier :c
I!Xlf¥H!Ct01'. disconnect it from the brake pedal first, then the switch).
Do nm disconnect the connector. Turn the ignition switch On and 10 Release the adjusting nut and free the switch from its bracke·
dEc t..'"e voltage between the black/brown wire and ground/earth Note: Access to the switch is greatly improved on 1100 Magr;=
stration). If no voltage is shown, current is not reaching the models, by first removing the right footpeg (see Chapter 6).
~and :le open circuit should be repaired. 11 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Adjust tr~
_e was present in the previous test, measure the voltage brake light switch as described in Chapter 1.
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-15

16.7 Checking for battery voltage at the headlight 17.3 Rear brake switch continuity test is made at the switch
sensor connector connector

2 Disconnect the instrument wiring at the block connector, located

18 Instrument cluster- removal and installation in the steering head area.
3 Remove the two socket-head bolts which retain the instrument
Removal mounting bracket to the headlight bracket (see illustration).

1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models (main instruments) 1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models (odometer and
qefer to illustration 18.3 clock/trip set unit)
Remove the headlight and its housing (see Sections 9 and 10). 4 Remove the headlight (see Section 9). Locate the odometer

Rear cover

18.3 Instrument cluster (750 Sabres)

Instruments
Instrument
lens and cluster
fuse plate
bracket
8-16 Chapter 8 Electrical system

Speedometer Lower cover

assembly

Temperature
gauge

Bulb
holder

Tachometer
assembly

Speedometer
cable

18.11 a Instrument cluster (1982 through 1986 7oonso Magnas)

assembly w tnng connectors inside the headlight housing and connectors from the headlight housing.
disconnect them. 6 Remove the two odometer assembly mounting bolts and lift it up.
5 Remove one of the turn signal bracket mounting bolts and loosen 7 Disconnect the wires at the top of the steering stem that lead to
the other. This will provide clearance to withdraw the wiring the angle sensor and lift the assembly free.

H. 28'2.f2

18.11b Instrument cluster (700 Sabres and 1100 Magnas)

 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-17

18.17 Instrument cluster (1100 Sabres)

1-1.282to

1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models and all1982 through full diagnosis of the components. Seek advice from a Honda dealer if a
1986 Magna models fault is suspected.
Refer to illustrations 18. 11 a and 18. 11 b Temperature gauge/display/warning light
8 Remove the headlight and its housing (see Sections 9 and 10). 1 This check is described in Chapter 3.
9 Unscrew the speedometer cable from the meter.
10 Disconnect the instrument wiring at the block connector, located Fuel display/warning light
n the steering head area, or in the electrical connector box behind the 2 Refer to Section 27 of this Chapter.
'>Oms on later models. Tachometer and speedometer
'1 Remove the two mounting nuts which retain the instrument
3 Special instruments are required to properly check the operation
qounting bracket to the upper triple clamp (see illustrations).
of these meters. Take the machine to a Honda dealer service
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models department or other qualified repair shop for diagnosis.
• 2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Remove the large black
::»a.stic cover from the right side of the steering head to access the
Replacement
-.strument wiring block connectors; the cover is retained by a single 1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models (main instruments)
screw at the rear. Identify the connectors using the wiring diagram at Refer to illustrations 19.5, 19.8 and 19.9
-.e end of this manual and separate them. Caution: Don't place the instruments face-down on the bench, or
· 3 Unscrew the speedometer cable from the meter. damping oil will leak out into the display.
· - Remove the two chrome-head bolts from the face of the 4 Remove the instruments (see Section 18).
'"Slruments and lift the assembly off the upper triple clamp. 5 Pry the cover tabs free to release the lower cover (see illustration).
6 Remove the four screws that retain the outer cluster housing and
· too Sabre models lift it off.
=~ to illustration 18. 17
:: Remove the headlight and its housing (see Sections 9 and 10).
- :: Pull the instrument wiring connector blocks directly out of the
.rs:ruments.
· - Remove the two mounting nuts which retain the instruments to
- e upper triple clamp (see illustration).

-.stallation
nstall the instruments in a reverse of the removal procedure. Note
...... on later Magna models one of the two instrument mounting nuts is
- ...en taller than the other; install this nut on the right side.
_ Check, and if necessary, adjust, the headlight aim (see Section 11 ).
_ Ensure that all wiring connector blocks are correctly remade and
:-e:::x the operation of the instruments before riding the motorcycle.

Meters and gauges - check and replacement

8

Due to the complexity of the electronic instrumentation on the 19.5 1982/83 750 Sabre instruments- pry cover tabs free ...
_ models, it is not practical for the home mechanic to perform a
8-18 Chapter 8 Electrical system

19.8 ... warning module is retained by two screws

19.13 Release bottom cover to access odometer 19.15 Position wire harness as shown when installing
and bulb (arrows) odometer assembly

7 Remove the four screws that retain the lens to the housing and lift 1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models (odometer and
the lens off. Note: The lens is treated with an anti-fogging agent. Any clock/trip set unit)
fingerprints on the inside of the lens may permanently mar the surface.
8 Refer to illustrations 19.13 and 19.15
Note the positions of the taped wiring harnesses, as they must be
re-secured in the same positions. Then remove the tape. Remove the 12 Remove the odometer assembly (see Section 18).
two screws that retain the warning light module and carefully position it 13 Unsnap the bottom cover from the assembly to expose the
clear of the housing (see illustration}. odometer and bulb (see illustration).
9 To remove the tachometer, speedometer, LCD tripmeter/clock or 14 If the odometer must be removed, fold back the rubber covering
LCD fuel/ temperature gauge, remove their mounting screws from the on the bottom of the assembly enough to remove the odometer
printed circuit inside of the housing and lift the component(s) out (see mounting screws, unscrew the odometer motor from it and lift the
illustration}. odometer out.
·o If the printed circuit board is to be removed, remove all the 15 Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly procedure. Before
remaJning screws that retain it to the housing. Do not mix up these installing the assembly, check that the wiring harnesses are correct!)
sere s with the component mounting screws. Note that the wiring routed (see illustration).
caor codes are labeled on the printed circuit. Check that these are
am-ec: and make any further notes or labels you may need to 1100 Sabre models
n!O:X1rleCt them properly. Caution: Don't place the instruments face-down on the bench, or
::leassembly of the instrument cluster is basically the reverse of damping oil will leak out into the display.
d:sassembly procedure, noting that all wire connections should be 16 Remove the instruments (see Section 18).
<.'leir original locations. After securing the warning light 17 Remove the four screws from the underside of the instruments to
•o the housing, the two wiring harnesses exiting the rear of the release the cover.
.:. s."X:l!.Jid be separated and taped down to the housing to keep 18 Separate the mounting bracket from the instruments by removing
apar-. . lo prevent electrical interference in the instrument the four nuts and washers in the center of the assembly.
c:J:::;:JaleC:S. esoecaaJly the warning unit, the light and dark green wires 19 Remove the four screws from the base of the instruments and lift
seoarate from the yellow wire in the other harness. off the front panel/lens, noting the sealing rings around the speedometer
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-19
3 Repeat the above procedure to loosen the other lower tab. If the
cover does not easily disengage at this point, pull the lower edge of the
cover out about an inch and use a screwdriver to carefully pry the top
tabs out of their holes.
4 Remove the four screws that retam the outer cluster housing and
lift it off. Pull the bulbholders out to access the bulbs (see illustration).
5 Install in a reverse of the removal procedure and check the
operation of all bulbs before riding the motorcycle.

Odometer and clock/trip reset unit

6 Refer to Section 18 for details.

1982 through 1984 700/750 Magna models

7 Remove the headlight and its housing (see Sections 9 a'1d 1 0).
8 Remove the two screws which retain the instrument lower cover
and lift it off.
9 To access the warning lamp bulbs, remove the three screws from
the underside of the instruments and lift off the top cover display
panel. The bulbs are now accessible and can be replaced
20.4 Pull bulbholders out of cluster for access to bulbs (arrow) 10 To gain access to the meter bulbs, remove the two nuts ~1ch
retain each meter housing to the mounting bracket and the two screws
from the base of the meter. Lift the meter housing off the meter and
and tachometer. The speedometer and tachometer are retained by two pull the bulbholder out to access the bulb.
screws each; disconnect their wiring connectors before lifting them out 11 Install in a reverse of the removal procedure and check the
of the housing. On reassembly, ensure that the tripmeter reset rod operation of all bulbs before riding the motorcycle.
correctly engages the reset button in the front panel and that the sealing
rings are in place between the meters and front panel. 1985 and 1986 700 Magna models
20 The LCD gear position, fuel, coolant temperature and clock unit 12 Remove the headlight and its housing (see Sections 9 and 10).
is retained by four screws, accessed from the rear of the housing. 13 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Trace the wiring from the
instruments to the block connector situated above the air f ter
1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models, all1982 through 1986 housing. Disconnect the connector.
Magna models 14 Remove the two nuts which retain the instruments to the'r
Caution: Don't place the instruments face-down on the bench, or mounting bracket and lift the instruments off the motorcycle. Caution:
damping oil will leak out into the display. Don't place the instruments face-down on the bench, or damPtng oil
21 Remove the instruments (see Section 18). will leak out into the display.
22 Remove its two screws and lift off the lower cover, then remove 15 Remove its two screws and lift off the lower cover to access the
the two nuts which retain each meter housing to the mounting bracket warning light bulbs. Pull the bulbholder out of the housing to access
and the two screws from the base of the meter. Disconnect the wiring the bulbs.
and lift the meter housing off the meter. 16 To gain access to the meter bulbs, remove the two -:S ch
23 To access the temperature gauge, remove the speedometer and retain each meter housing to the mounting bracke: anc _ two screws
tachometer as described above, then remove the screws/nuts from the base of the meter. Lift the meter housmg o!f the me•e· and
securing the mounting bracket, followed by those which secure the pull the bulbholder out to access the bulb.
housing to the front panel/lens. Release the gauge and its wiring from 17 Install in a reverse of the removal proced ·e and c ec the
the housing. operation of all bulbs before riding the motorC'ICie

1987 and 1988 Magna models 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
Caution: Don't place the instruments face-down on the bench, or 18 Remove the headlight and its housmg see Secfuns 9 arx: 10
damping oil will leak out into the display. 19 Unscrew the speedometer cable. Rei'TlO\"e ne
.-.e screws from
24 Remove the instruments (see Section 18). the underside of the instruments and withdr2 the
25 Remove the five screws from the underside of the instruments 20 Each bulbholder is a push-f.<t m the base ne ..,..,..,.,.,.......
and withdraw the chrome cover. Remove the two retaining screws and them out gently to access the bulbs.
disconnect the wiring to detach each meter from the instruments. 21 Install in a reverse of the remova proced eck • e
26 Don't omit to fit the meter seals on installation. operation of all bulbs before fidlflQ :he mo'.on:yde.

1100 Sabre models

20 Instrument and warning light bulbs - replacement
22 Remove the head 1ght and ts housing (see 5-fr_
23 Remove the four screws from the ~crt :ments to
1982 and 1983 750 Sabre models release the cover.
Main instruments 24 Each bulbholder s a push-fit 10 the base the nstruments. Pull
them out gently to access the bu bs.
Refer to illustration 20.4
25 Install in a reverse of the remo a proced e and check the
1 Loosen the instrument cluster mounting bolts and tilt the cluster operation of all bulbs before rid "l9 the m<r.orcycle.
to the rear, toward the fuel tank.
2 The rear cover of the cluster is secured to the housing by four 1984 and 1985 700 Sabre models and a/11100
plastic mounting tabs. The bottom tabs are just inside the protruding
center section, while the upper tabs are about an inch inside both of Magna models
the upper center corners (see illustration 19.5). Using a blade type 26 Remove the headlight and its hous1ng (see Sections 9 and 10).
screwdriver, insert it between the edge of the cover and the housing at 27 Remove the two screws to release the instrument console lower
one of the lower tabs. Carefully twist the screwdriver while simulta- cover.
neously pulling out on the lower edge of the cover. 28 To access the warning light bulbs, remove the four screws from
8-20 Chapter 8 Electrical system

21.2 Oil pressure switch location (arrow) Ignition switch is retained to upper triple clamp by
two bolts (arrows)

the underside of the console and lift the top cover display off for direct
11 Attach the wire, tightening its retaining screw securely, then seat
access to the bulbs.
29 To access the illuminating bulb in either meter, remove the two the rubber cover over the switch.
nuts which retain the meter to the main mounting bracket. Disconnect 12 Check the operation of the oil pressure warning light.
the bulb wiring, and reed switch/tachometer wiring at the connectors
or screwed terminals and in the case of the speedometer, unscrew the 22 Ignition (main) key switch - check, removal and
drive cable.
installation
30 Remove the two screws from the base of the meter and lift off the
chrome housing, threading the wiring through its hole. The meter bulb
holder is set in its base; pull the bulbholder out for access. Check
31 Install in a reverse of the removal procedure and check the 1 Disconnect the switch wiring block connector as described below
operation of all bulbs before riding the motorcycle. and make the following tests on the switch side of the connector block.
2 Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity of the terminal pairs
(see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter). Continuity should
21 Oil pressure switch - check and replacement exist between the terminals connected by a solid line when the switcr
is in the indicated position.
Check 3 If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it.
Refer to illustration 21.2
Removal
1 Before checking the electrical circuit, check the bulb (see Section
20) and fuses (see Section 7). All 700/750 Sabre models and 1982 through 1984
2 The switch is screwed into the top of the crankcase on the right 700/750 Magna models
side (see illustration). Refer to illustrations 22.6, 22. 7a and 22. 7b
3 Peel back the rubber cover, then undo the retaining screw and 4 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
detach the wiring connector from the switch. 5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) to access the ignition switcn
4 With the wire detached and the ignition switched On, the light wiring block connector. On Magnas, the main tank can be raised on its
should be out. If it's illuminated, the wire between the switch and support rod if less than half full. Identify the connector and disconnect It
instrument cluster must be grounded (earthed) at some point. 6 Remove the headlight housing (see Section 10) to access the
5 Ground (earth) the wire on the crankcase and check that the switch retaining bolts on the underside of the upper triple clamp (see
warning light comes on. If the light does come on, either the switch is illustration). Remove the two retaining bolts and lower the switch out
defective or the engine oil pressure is low. Perform an oi l pressure of the triple clamp. On Sabre models, remove the headlight mounting
check as described in Chapter 2. If the oil pressure checks out okay bracket bolts and reposition the bracket to permit switch removal.
the switch is defective and must be replaced. 7 To release the switch from the lock cylinder, pry back the metaJ
6 If the light does not come on when the wire is grounded (earthed), tabs of the wiring clamp, then insert the key into the lock and turn ~
check for voltage at the wire terminal using a test light. If there's no midway between the ON and OFF positions. Insert a small screwdriver
o'tage present, check the wire between the switch, the instrument into the release slots in the lock body and depress the tabs to release
caster and fusebox for continuity (see the wiring diagrams at the end the switch (see illustrations).
~ Ns Chapter).
1985 and 1986 700 Magna models and all1100 Magna
Replacement models
S :de the rubber cover off the switch and unscrew the wire 8 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
canectiOO. 9 On 700 models remove the cover from between the horns, ther
Unsc:rew the switch from the top of the crankcase. identify and disconnect the ignition switch wiring connector block.
=.'iSUre the switch threads are clean and dry and apply a thin coat 10 On 11 00 models, remove the cover from between the horns
~ sea;ar;t to them. detach the wiring from the back of the horns and remove the centra
~ Sc:rew the SWitch nto the top of the crankcase and tighten it until mounting bolt bracket to detach the horn assembly from the
tas1 two t:ueads are visible, t hen tighten it to the specified motorcycle. Remove the wiring connector block cover, identify the
ignition switch block connector and disconnect it.
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-21

22.7a Depress switch lock tabs to separate it from lock barrel 22.7b Release the wire clamp tabs and remove switch

horns and remove their mounting bolts to release t hem from the
fusebox cover.
18 Remove the two screws from the front face of the fusebox, hinge
the fuse mounting forward and disconnect the wiring connectors from
the rear of the fusebox. Identify the ignition switch wiring block
connecter and disconnect it.
19 Remove the headlight housing (see Section 10) and instruments
(see Section 18). Remove the two retaining bolts and lower the switch
out of the triple clamp.
20 To release the switch from the lock cylinder, pry back the metal
tabs of the wiring clamp, then insert the key into the lock and turn it
midway between the ON and OFF positions. Insert a small screwdriver
into the release slots in the lock body and depress the tabs to release
the switch (see illustrations 22.7a and 22.7b).

Installation
21 Install the switch in a reverse of the removal procedure. On 1987
and 1988 700/750 models, install the mounting rubbers and co Iars in
the switch bracket before installing the retaining bolts.
22.14 Switch is retained to frame top tube by two socket head 22 Reconnect the battery negative lead and check tha! all electrical
bolts on 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magnas
components operate correctly before riding the motorcycle.

11 Remove the headlight housing (see Section 10) to access the

switch retaining bolts on the underside of the upper triple clamp.
23 Handlebar switches - check
Remove the two retaining bolts and lower the switch out of the triple
clamp. Generally speaking, the switches are reliable and trouble-free.
12 To release the switch from the lock cylinder, pry back the metal Most troubles, when they do occur, are caused by dirty or corroded
tabs of the wiring clamp, then insert the key into the lock and turn it contacts, but wear and breakage of internal parts ts a possibility that
midway between the ON and OFF positions. Insert a small screwdriver should not be overlooked. If breakage does occur, the entire switch
into the release slots in the lock body and depress the tabs to release and related wiring harness will have to be replaced with a new one,
the switch (see illustrations 22.7a and 22.7b). since individual parts are not usually available.
2 The switches can be checked for continuity with a multimeter set
1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models to the resistance function (ohmmeter) or a cont1nuity test light. Always
Refer to illustration 22. 14 disconnect the battery negative cable, which will prevent the possibility
13 Disconnect the battery negative lead. of a short circuit, before making the checks.
14 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) to access the switch 3 Trace the wiring harness of the switch 1n question back to its
retaining bolts and wiring connector block. Trace the wiring from the connector(s) in the steering head area. Unplug the relevant electrical
back of the switch and separate it at the block connector. Unscrew the connector(s).
two bolts and remove the switch from the frame top tube (see 4 Using the multimeter or test light, check for continuity between
illustration). the terminals of the switch harness with the switch in the various
15 The switch can be separated from its bracket by removing the positions (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).
two nuts on its rear face and the ground (earth) tab screw. 5 If the continuity check indicates a problem exists, refer to Sec-
tion 24, remove the switch and spray the switch contacts with
1100 Sabre models electrical contact cleaner. If they are accessible, the contacts can be
16 Disconnect the battery negative lead. scraped clean with a knife or polished with crocus cloth. If switch
17 Remove the bolt on each side of the fusebox cover Gust above components are damaged or broken, it will be obvious when the
the horns) and pull the cover forwards. Disconnect the wiring from the switch is disassembled.
8-22 Chapter 8 Electrical system

1982 THROUGH 1986 700/750 ALL SABRE MODELS

MAGNA MODELS AND 1100 MAGNA
y

I~
Lg/R G/0 Lg /R Bk /Y W/B R/W Br/Y G/0 GROUND

.~
_.1_
n n
-
-=-
1st 1st 0 -- --- ---- ---- - -- - --- --- --<;
N 0 ----
________ .. N 0-- ---- --- ---- ---- --- --~
2nd 2nd o-- --- --- --- --- --<
3rd 3rd 0-~--- --- --- -- -(
4th 4th o-- --- --- - - . (
5th 5th 0- - --- --.(
00 0--- - 00 o-- ---(

25.4 Gearchange switch continuity tests

24 Handlebar switches - removal and installation mark on the handlebar. Install the clamp bolts and tighten the top
one fully, followed by the bottom bolt.
d) On completion check the choke cable operation (left side) o•
Removal throttle cable operation (right side) and, if necessary, adjust as
Left handlebar switch described in Chapters 4 and 1 respectively.
Disconnect the wiring from the clutch switch, and trace the main
wiring harness back from the switch to the wiring connector blocks in
the steering head area. Disconnect the connector blocks. 25 Gearchange/neutrai/OD switch - check and
2 Work back along the harness, freeing it from all the relevant clips replacement
and ties, while noting its correct routing.
3 Remove the rear view mirror, then loosen the two clutch master Check
cylinder clamp bolts and lift the master cylinder assembly off the
Refer to illustration 25.4
handlebars; support it in a level position to prevent fluid leakage. On
early models, the master cylinder clamp can remain attached to the All Sabre models and 1100 Magna models
choke cable.
1 Before checking the electrical c ircuit, check the fuses (see
4 Working from the underside of the switch, remove the three
Section 7).
screws (early models) or two screws (later models) and separate the
2 Shift the transmission into 1st gear. Remove the seat and trace the
switch halves. On later models, free the choke cable from the choke
gearchange switch wiring connector; use the wiring diagrams at the end
lever and release the nut on the underside of the switch to free the of this manual to identify the connector. Disconnect the connector and
choke cable outer.
make the following tests on the gearchange switch side of it.
Right handlebar switch 3 Using a multimeter or a continuity test light, connect one probe to
the yellow wire terminal of the connector and the other to ground
5 Disconnect the wiring from the brake switch, and trace the main
(earth) on the engine. Continuity should be shown in 1st gear, and no
wiring harness back from the switch to the wiring connector blocks in
continuity (infinite resistance) in the other gears.
the steering head area. Disconnect the connector blocks.
4 Carry out the same test by connecting the probe to the other wire
6 Work back along the harness, freeing it from all the relevant clips
terminals of the connector, noting that continuity should only be shown
and ties, while noting its correct routing.
in the corresponding gear (see illustration).
7 Remove the three (early models) or two (later models) screws
5 If the gearchange switch does not respond correctly, it is
from the underside of the switch and separate the switch halves.
defective and must be replaced. If the switch checks out OK, check
8 Free the throttle cables from the grip pulley and slide the twistgrip
the wiring between the switch and instrument display, then finally
off the handlebar end. Note: Use the in-line cable adjuster to create
replace the display unit.
e'10ugh slack in the cables to disconnect them from the pulley, or
a :ematively free them at the carburetor end. 1982 through 1986 700/750 Magna models
:: Unscrew the knurled nuts to free the cables from the bottom half
6 Before checking the electrical circuit, check the neutral and OD
::A :.--e switch. (overdrive) bulbs (see Section 20) and fuses (see Section 7).
7 Shift the transmission into neutral. Remove the left side cover
'")Sfal/ation
(1985 and 1986 models) or seat (earlier models) and access the
~s~ ation is a reversal of the removal procedure, noting the neutrai/OD switch block connector; use the wiring diagrams at the end
of this manual to identify the connector.
wre that the locating peg on the bottom half of the switch 8 Disconnect the connector and make the following tests on the
r.s ::orrect.7 located in the handlebar hole. switch side of the connector. Using a multimeter or continuity test
-~-? ;.rye handlebar screws situated at the front of the switch light, connect one probe to the light green/red wire and ground (earth)
~ the other probe on the engine; continuity should be shown with the
E-: ins:a!Iing the clutch master cylinder, if the clamp has an UP transmission in neutral (see illustration 25.4).
" "- , so that it is facing upwards and position the assembly 9 Shift the transmission into top gear (OD) and check between the
c;e ooa r-to-clamp top mating surface aligns with the punch green/orange wire and the engine case; again continuity should be
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-23

25.17 Gearchange switch (arrow) location 27.2 Fuel sender resistance check (Sabre models)

shown if the switch is operating correct ly. There should be no continuity is indicated with the coolant level above the LOWER level
continuity (infinite resistance) in all other gears. mark on the reservoir, and no continuity (infinite resistance) with the
10 If the switch does not operate as described, replace it. level below the LOWER mark.
3 Remove the reservoir tank (see Chapter 3) and remove the sensor
1987 and 1988 70onso Magna models
from the base of the tank.
11 Before checking the electrical circuit, check the bulb (see Section
20) and fuses (see Section 7).
12 Shift the transmission into neutral. Remove the right side cover 27 Fuel sender - check
and access the neutral switch block connector in the electrical
components frame. Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra
13 With the wire detached and the ignition switched On, the neutral precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke
light should be out. If not, the wire between the switch and instrument or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't
cluster must be grounded (earthed) at some point. work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water
14 Ground (earth) the wire on the crankcase and check that the neutral heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
light comes on. If the light does come on, the switch is defective. rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any
15 If the light does not come on when the wire is grounded, check for kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a fire
voltage at the w ire terminal using a test light. If there's no voltage extinguisher suitable for a class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
present, check the wire between the switch, the instrument cluster and
fusebox (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter). All Sabre models
Refer to illustration 27.2
Replacemen t
1 Remove the fuel sender unit from the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
Refer to illustration 25. 17 2 Connect a multi meter set to the ohms range to the wire connector
16 Remove the gearchange/neutral switch cover. terminals and measure the resistance with the float arm fully raised
17 Remove the two switch mounting screws and pull the switch out (full) and fully lowered (empty) (see illustration).
of the crankcase (see illustration). 3 On 750 models the meter should read 4 to 10 ohms in the full
18 Trace the wiring up from the switch to the block connector, position and 95 to 1 00 ohms in the empty position. On 11 00 models, it
releasing it from any ties. On 1985 through 1988 700/750 Magna should read 3.5 to 9.5 at full and 90 to 100 ohms at empty respectively.
models remove the right side cover to access the connector located in 4 To check the display unit function, reconnect the fuel sender wire
the electrical connector holder frame. On all other models, remove or connector to the harness. Switch the ignition On and move the float
raise the fuel tank (as applicable). Refer to the wiring diagrams at the slowly from the full to empty positions: the display segments should
end of this manual to identify the connector block. respond accordingly. On 750 models. the fue .vam ng symbol should
19 Disconnect the switch wiring connector and remove the switch be displayed on the instrument wam1ng urit ·Sl the ernpt) posrtion
and its wiring.
20 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the 1982 through 1986 700/750 Magna models and
following:
a/11100 Magna models
a) Make sure that the wiring is securely held by any ties provided and
5 The low fuel warning light (reserve sensor should come on for
seat the wiring grommet into the casing cutout.
b) Install a new gasket on the switch cover.
approximately 1 to 4 seconds within 60 seconds of the ignition (main)
key switch being turned On, and then extinguish unless the fuel level is
too low. This is a self-check funct1on to ensure that the circuit is
operating correctly. If the light does not come on, check the fuse (see
26 Coolant reservoir tank level sensor (1982 and 1983
Section 7), wiring and bulb (see Section 20).
models) - check 6 The sensor is operating correctly if the bulb comes on with less
than 3.5 liters (1982 through 1984 700/750 models), 3.5 to 4 liters
Disconnect the wiring at the block connector and make the (1985/86 700 models), or 3 liters (11 00 models) in the tank. The bulb
following continuity check on the sensor side of the connector. should not come on with more than 6.5 liters (700/750 models), 3.5 to
2 Connect a multimeter set to the ohms range between the two 4 liters (1985/86 models), or significantly more than 3 liters (11 00
terminals of the connector. The sensor is functioning correctly if models) of fuel in the tank.
8-24 Chapter 8 Electrical system

29.1 Horn is mounted to frame downtube by single bolt (arrow) 29.4 Adjustment to horn tone can be made via screw
on 1987 and 1988 1oonso
Magnas on rear face (arrow)

7 If the sensor unit does not function correctly it must be replaced 3 If the hom doesn't sound, replace it.
(see Chapter 4). On 1983-on models, if the sender unit checks out OK 4 Adjustment to the hom note can be made via the adjuster screv.
and the bulb still does not light, check the pilot light check unit wiring, on its rear face; tighten the locknut securely after adjustment (see
and as a last resort replace the check unit. The check unit is housed illustration).
inside the toolbox on 1985/86 700 Magnas and on the rear fender on
all other models. Replacement
All700/750 Sabres and 1982 through 1984 700/750
28 Fuel pump relay (1100 models and 1982 through 1984 Magna models
700/750 Magna models} - check and replacement 5 Unbolt each horn from the brake hose three-way union on the
lower triple clamp. Pull the wires off the terminals.
Check 1985 and 1986 700 Magna models
Note: The following check relates to 1100 models only; no information 6 First remove the cover between the two horns; it is retained by a
is available on the relay fitted to the 700/750 Magnas. single screw at the top. Remove the nut and withdraw the horn off the
1 Remove the fuel pump relay from its mounting rubber, but leave mounting bracket stud. Pull the wires of their terminals.
the wire connector connected to it. With the ignition On, check for
battery voltage at the black/light green wire terminal (11 00 Sabre 1987 and 1988 700/750 Magna models
models} or black wire terminal (11 00 Magna models). Tum the ignition 7 Remove the mounting bolt, pull the wires off their terminals and
Off. If full battery voltage is reaching the relay, and the fuel pump tests remove the hom.
described in Chapter 4 confirmed the fuel pump to be functioning
correctly, the relay should be replaced. 1100 Sabre models
2 Before replacing the relay, check that the fault is not due to a 8 Remove the bolt on each side of the fusebox cover Oust above
broken wire between the relay and the spark unit for cylinders 2 and 4. the horns) and pull the cover forwards. Disconnect the wiring from the
Make continuity checks using the wiring diagrams at the end of this horns and remove their mounting bolts to release them from the
manual. fusebox cover.

Replacement 1100 Magna models

3 The fuel pump relay is mounted next to the battery. Remove the 9 First remove the cover between the two horns; it is retained by a
right side cover (Magna models) or left side cover (11 00 Sabre models) single screw at the top. Either remove the center bolt to detach both
for access. Use the wiring diagrams at the end of this manual to horns together with their mounting bracket, or unbolt each horn
dentify the relay's wire color codes. Unplug the wire connector from separately. Pull the wires off their terminals.
i1le relay and maneuver it out of its mounting rubber.

30 Clutch diode - check and replacement

29 Hom - check and replacement
Refer to illustrations 30. 1 and 30.3
1 The clutch diode is plugged into the main wiring harness clipped
C eck to the frame below the rear of the fuel tank (see illustration). The
diode is part of the starter safety circuit (See Section 1) and prevents
:k 982 through 1986 models, the horns are mounted on the the starter motor operating while the transmission is in gear unless the
clamp. A single horn is fitted to 1987 and 1988 700/750 clutch lever is pulled in. If the starter circuit is faulty, first check the
l:)O()eiS mounted on the left frame downtube (see illustration). fuses (see Section 7).
e -'<Iring connectors from the horn. Using two jumper 2 To gain access to the diode remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4}.
~ ba::;e.<y voltage directly to the terminals on the hom. If the Use the wiring diagrams at the end of this manual to identify the
s::Q":CS. dlEd< :ne switch (see Section 23} and the wiring between diode's wire colors.
~ -<; :10rr. see the wiring diagrams at the end of this 3 Unplug the diode from the wiring harness and using a multimeter
set to the resistance scale (ohmmeter} or a continuity test light, check
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-25

30.1 Clutch diode is located under fuel tank (arrow) 30.3 Continuity should only exist in one direction on clutch diode

31.2a Clutch switch wire connectors (A) and retaining screw (B) 31 .2b Check for continuity across switch terminals
with lever pulled in

for continuity between the terminals of t he diode (see illustration). or a continuity test light, check for continuity between the terminals of
Transpose the meter probes and check for continuity in the opp osite the switch w ith the lever pulled into the handlebar and no continuity
direction. If the diode is serviceable there should be continuity in one (infinite resistance) with the lever released (see illustration) . If this is
direction (indicated by the arrow on the diode) and no continuity not the case, the switch is faulty and must be replaced.
(infinite resistance) in the other. If not, the diode must be replaced. 3 If the switch checks out okay, check the other components ·n the
4 If the diode checks out okay, check the other components in the starter circuit (clutch diode, gearchange/00/neutral switch and starter
starter circ uit (clutch switch, gearchange/00/neutral switch and starter relay) as described in the relevant sections of this Chapter. If all
relay) as described in the relevant sections of this Chapter. If all components check out fine, check the wiring between the various
components check out fine, check the wiring between the various components (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this book/.
components (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this book).
5 Plug t he diode back into position and install the fuel tank (see Replacement
Chapter4). 4 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the clutch switch.
5 Remove the single screw (see illustration 31.2a) and lift off the
clutch switch .
31 Clutch switch - check and replacement 6 Install the new switch, making sure the a1gnment tab is positioned
correctly. Tighten the screw securely and reconnect the wiring.
Check
Refer to illustrations 3 1.2a and 31.2b 32 Starter relay - check and replacement
1 The clutch switch is situated in the lever mounting bracket. The
switch is part of the starter safety circuit (see Section 1) which prevents
the starter motor operating while the transmission is in gear unless the Check 8
c lutch lever is pulled in. If the starter circuit is faulty, first check the Refer to illustration 32.4
fuses (see Section 7). 1 If the starter circuit is faulty, first check the fuses (see Section 7).
2 To ch eck the switch, disconnect the wiring connectors (see The starter relay is located in a rubber h older, next to the battery;
illustration). Using a multi meter set to the resistance scale (ohmmeter) the 30A main fuse is integral with the relay.
8-26 Chapter 8 Electrical system

32.4 Starter relay check (see text)

33.5 Install a new 0-ring on the starter body

33.4 Starter motor is retained by two bolts (arrows)

the relay. _
2 With the ignition switch On, the engine kill switch in Run and the 7 Disconnect the relay wiring connector and remove the relay from
transmission in neutral, press the starter switch. The relay should l:{e the bike (see illustration). ·
heard to click. 8 Installation is .the reverse of removal ensuring the terminal nuts
3 If the relay doesn't click, switch off the ignition and remove the are securely tightened. Connect the negative lead last when
relay as described below and test as follows. t reconnecting the b'attery.
4 Set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and connect it across the
relay's starter motor and battery lead terminals. Using a fully-chargee!
12 volt battery (the machine's battery will do) and two insulated jumper 33 Starter motor - removal and installation
... tres, connect the positive terminal of the battery to the yellow/red
tenninal of the relay, and the negative terminal to the green/red wire
temunal of the relay (see illustration). At this point the relay should · Removal
cic.'< and the multimeter read 0 ohms {continuity). If this is the case the Refer to illustration 33.4
ce1a1- IS serviceable and the fault lies in the starter switch circuit (check 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
cLutch diode, clutch switch and gearchange/OD/ neutral switch as 2 Peel back the rubber cover and unscrew the nut securing the
desc::"oed elsewhere in this Chapter). If the relay does not click when starter cable to the motor stud.
--;- oltage is applied and indicates no continuity across its 3 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter (see Chapter 1).
~a.s it is faulty and must be replaced. 4 Unscrew the starter motor retaining bolts and work the starter
motor out of the crankcase (see illustration).
Replacement
·= ...s:raoon 32. 7 Installation
:J.scoonect ~ battery terminals, remembering to disconnect the Refer to illustration 33.5
CV:::ilSi': amunal "irst. 5 Install a new 0-ring on the end of the motor, ensuring it is
::edt :."le lUbber cover, then undo the two retaining nuts and correctly seatE;d in its groove; apply a smear of engine oil to it to aiO
cis;:o::n~!Ct·-e [arge-dtameter starter motor and b~ttery leads from installation (see illustration). · •
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-27

CASE AND FIELD COIL

34.2 starter motor detail (4-brush type)

BRUSH HOLDER

.· 7SP:I:I:G
REAR COVER SHIMS

~\" FRONT COVER

34.3 Check oil seal (arrow) and needle bearing in rear cover 34.5a Brush locations on 4-brush starter (arrows)

-1
6 Maneuver the motor into· position in the crankcase. 2 Remove the ·starter motor case bolts and separate the rear cover
7 Fit the retaining bolts and tighten them securely. from the motor. Do not lose the shims on the rear of the armature (see
8 Connect the cable and securely tighten the nut. Make sure the illustration).
rubber cover is correctly seated over the terminal. ·~ 3 With the rear cover removed, check the condition of the oil seal ~
9 Install a new oil filter and refill the engine with the correct quantity it (see illustration). Also check for oil inside the starter motor. If 01 s
and type of oil (see Chapter 1). Reconnect the battery negative lead. present, the seal is defective and should be replaced. At the sarpe
time, check the needle bearing in the rear cover by spinning it 19r·
with your finger. There should be no roughness felt or noise hearo •
- necessary, the bearing can be n;moved after prying out the sea A
34 Starter motor - disassembly, inspection and seal is installed by tapping it in with a suitable size socket.
reassembly 4 Remove the front cover from the starter motor.
5 The parts of the starter motor that most likely will reo
are the brushes. Measure the length of each one and r.....--.~ 8
Disassembly and inspection - results to the Specifications (see illustrations). If~ or r::rr: "r"""'"'·
Refer to illustrations 34.2, 34.3, 34.5a, 34.5b, 34.6, 34.8, 34.10a and are worn beyond tbe specified limits, replace a c•
34.10b ones. If the brushes are not worn excessive , a-~ ....._._~
Remove t~e starter motor (see Section 33). otherwise damaged, they may be re-used.
 8-28 Chapter 8 Electrical system

34.5b Measuring brush length 34.6 Lift the brushplate out, noting that on 4-brush starter two
brushes are retained to the body by a holder clip ...

34.8 .. • do not separate brushes from holder plate or clip 34.10a Check for continuity between commutator bars

6 If the brushes need to be replaced, slide the armature out the rear
of the starter motor and lift the brush holder plate out (see
illustration). Note that two of the brushes are retained to the starter
motor case by a holder clip on the 4-brush starter. On the 2-brush
starter (fitted to 1988 750 Magnas) one of the brushes is attached
directly to the terminal bolt.
7 Remove the nut from the terminal on the outside of the case and
side off the washers. The terminal bolt can now be removed from the
"1SSde of the case. On the 4-brush starter, separate the brush holder
d p and insulator from the bolt.
a Do not separate the brushes from either the holder clip or the
- der plate. A set of new brushes will come complete with these
~com ponents (see illustration).
_ '·~He the armature is removed, inspect the commutator for
sc:or.;;-g scratches or discoloration. The commutator can be cleaned
a-x: :x:.:.:sN!d with crocus cloth, but do not use sandpaper or emery
pi!OE"- :. ";er cleaning, wipe away any residue with a cloth soaked in an
~ system cleaner or denatured alcohol. If there is any doubt as
- cood ton of the commutator or armature as a whole, have it
- 2C and tested by a dealer or other qualified repair shop.
-'sii:lc; at' ohmmeter or a continuity test light, check for continuity
913"' ~ commutator bars (see illustration). Continuity should exist 34.10b There should be no continuity (infinite resistance)
:::- sacn oar and all of the others. Also check for continuity between the commutator and the shaft
I::E=:5::-r:J ~ com::ll.lta!or bars and the armature shaft (see illustration).
 Chapte r 8 Electric al system 8-29

35 Charging system testing - general informati on and

precautio ns

If the performance of the charging system is suspect, the system

as a whole should be checked first, followed by testing of the individual
componen ts (the alternator stator coils and the voltage
regulator/rectifier). Note: Before begmning the checks. make sure the
battery is fully charged and that ali system connecoons are clean and
tight.
2 Checking the output of the charging system and the pertonnance
of the various components within the charg ng sys-.em reqwes the use
of a multi meter (with voltage, current and res S".ance checKmg
facilities).
3 When making the checks, follow the procedure s care•u to
1
prevent incorrect connections or short circuits, as 1rreoarable damage
to electrical system components may result if short circuts occur
4 If a multimeter is not available, the job of checking the charging
system be left to a dealer service departmen t or a reputable
34.15 When installing brushes, remove the springs and insert the motorcycle repair shop.
brushes prior to installing the armature ...

There should be no continuity (infinite resistance) between the 36 Charging system (1982 through 1986 models) -
commutator and the shaft. If the checks indicate otherwise, the armature compone nt testing
is defective.

Reasse mbly Alterna tor output test

Refer to illustrations 34. 15 and 34.17 1 Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
11 To begin installation, position the brush holder and insulator in the 2 Remove the seat and side covers. Allow the engine to idle and
case. connect a multimete r set to the 0-to-20 de volts scale (voltmeter)
12 Install the terminal bolt through the clip (4-brush starter), insulator across the terminals of the battery (positive lead to battery positive
and case and position the outer insulators and washers on the outside terminal, negative lead to battery negative terminaQ. Slowly increase
of the bolt. Then install the nut to hold it in place. engine speed and note the reading obtained; it should be within the
13 Install the brush holder plate so that its pin aligns with the notch in range 13 to 16V on 11 00 Sabre models, and 14 to 15V on all other
the case. Be sure the brush wires of those brushes already installed models. Stop the engine and disconnect the meter when the test is
are located in their proper slots. complete. Note: Occasiona lly the condition may arise where the
14 Install new 0-rings on both ends of the case. charging voltage is excessive. This condition is almost certainly due to
15 Remove the brush springs and insert the brushes in their holders a faulty regulator/rectifier.
(see illustration ). 3 On 11 00 models and 1985/86 700 Magnas, it is possible to check
16 Install the rear cover and internal shims onto the armature and alternator current at specific engine speeds. Refer to Steps 4 and 5 on
install the armature assembly into the case. 700 models and Steps 6 and 7 for 11 00 models.
17 Install the clips onto the brush holder plate and use needle-nosed 4 On 1985 and 1986 700 Magna models, disconnec t the 6-pin
pliers to secure them around the brushes (see illustration ). connector containing the red/white and green wires from the
18 Install the front cover onto the case, aligning its notch with the regulator/r ectifier unit. Connect the probes of an ammeter between
brush holder plate pin, then reinstall the case bolts. Note: Check that one of the red/white and one of the green wire terminals on the
the end cover alignment marks match those on the case. regulator/rectifier side of the connector.
19 Install the starter motor in the crankcase (see Section 33). 5 Start the engine and note the meter reading at the specified
engine speeds.
Engine speed 1,200 rpm 5,000 rpm
Current SA minimum 20 to 30A
6 On 11 00 models, disconnec t the black wire from the
regulator/ rectifier 6-pin block connector . Disconnec t the wiring
connector from the headlight unit. Connect an ammeter in series,
between the battery positive terminal and the positive lead.
7 Start the engine and note the meter reading at the specified
engine speeds.
Engine speed 1,000 rpm 5,000 rpm
Current 10.2A minimum 25Amlnim um

Alterna tor stator coils check

Refer to illustration 36.9
8 Remove the left side cover and seat (see Chapter 6 ::;er. I:!'3C:E
the alternator wiring up from the casing to the bloc· cor.llECt:lr '
containing the three yellow wires.
9 Disconnect the connector. Using a multimeter set :o me dr:s •
(ohmmeter) scale measure the resistance between ead"
34.17 .. . then install the armature, followed by the brush springs wires on the alternator side of the connector, tal n: a
readings, then check for continuity between eacr: -
8-30 Chapter 8 Electrical system

36.9 Make alternator stator coil tests at the 36.12a Make regulator/rectifier tests at the block connectors
alternator block connector from the unit

RED/WHITE

z
z 0
0 ~
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36.14 Regulator/rectifier location (early models)

GREEN

36.12b Regulator/rectifier internal circuitry 13 If continuity is shown in both .directions, or in neither directior
that particular diode is faulty and the regulator/rectifier unit must be
replaced. Note: The use of certain multimeters could lead to false
earth) (see illustration). If the stator coil windings are in good readings being obtained. Therefore, if the above check shows the
condition there should be no continuity (infinite resistance) between regulator/rectifier unit to be faulty take the unit to a Honda dealer for
any of the terminals and ground (earth) and continuity (low resistance) confirmation of its condition before replacing it.
!Jetween the three yellow wire readings. If not, the alternator.stator coil 14 The regu~tor/rectifier u~it is a-large finned unit, located across
assembly is at fault and should be replaced. Note: Before condemning the frame top tubes on all 700/750 Sabres and 1982 through 198.:
;:-e stator coils as trash, check the fault is not due to damaged wiring 700/750 Magnas, underneath the battery on 1985/86 700 Magnas, anc
.::e=ween the connector and coils. next to the battery on 11 00 models (see illustration).
•- Refer to Chapter 2, Section 19 for removal and installation details. 15 Disconnect the regulator/rectifier wiring at the· block connector
release its retaining bolts/nuts and remove the unit.:
qeguJatorlrectifier check
~ !:l ,astrations 36. 12a, 36. 12b and 36. 14
=~e the side covers and seat (see Chapter 6) and disconnect 37 Charging system (1987 and 1988 models) - com·ponent
_ :>.Oek conn.ector leading from the regulator/rectifier unit. testing ·
·ng tests on the regulator/r.ectifier side of the block

_ -- v:""VTleter or a multi meter set to the ohms range, check Voltage output check
.::~o:ti::.y
:e:- een the green lead and each of the yellow leads in 1 RuFl the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature .
;rs; -... e meter probes and carry out the same. test. 2 Remove seat and with the engine idling, connect a O-to-20v o.:
es.s'.ance) should exist in one direction, and no voltmeter across the battery terminals (red lead to positive term ~-­
- r=s:s:a.--.ce ·n the other direction (see illustrations). black to negative). Increase engin~ speed briefly to 5000 rpm a:
sz=:.;; ~.oEC- oe~,.-een the red/white and each yellow wire; observe the voltmeter reading. Caution: Do not run the engine at t>- ~
=====~"J' -
.x :e s."llWn in one direction. speed !or any longer than is necess?ry to make the reading. Stop· -
 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-31
engine and disconnect the meter.
3 If the charging system is functioning correctly, voltage should be
within the range given in the Specifications. If outside of this range,
check the regulator/ rectifier and alternator stator coils as described
below.

Regulator/rectifier unit and stator coil check

Refer to illustration 37.9
4 Remove the seat and left side cover (see Chapter 6). Identify
the 4-pin block connector (containing the green and red/white wires)
from the regulator/rectifier unit and disconnect it.
5 Switch the ignition main (key) switch On and connect a multimeter
set to the O-to-20V de scale between one of the green and one of the
red/white wire terminals in the harness side of the connector (positive
meter lead to red/white and negative lead to green). Next carry out the
same test on the other pair of green and red/white wire terminals.
6 In each test battery voltage should be shown. Switch the ignition
Off and reconnect the 4-pin block connector.
7 Switch the multimeter to the resistance function (ohms). Separate
the 3-pin connector from the regulator/rectifier unit (containing the 37.9 Regulator/rectifier location (1987 and 1988 1oonso Magnas}
three yellow wires) and make the following test on the harness
. (alternatot) side of the connector.
8 Connect the meter across each pair of yellow wires in turn, taking of removal and installation.
a total of three readings. Each reading should be within the range 0.5 9 If the above tests are satisfactory and the fault still exists, the
to 10 K ohm. If any reading indicates a break in the circuit (ie infinite regulator/rectifier unit is faulty and should be replaced. It Is a large
resistance) check the wiring from the block connector to the stator finned unit, located on the frame left side, under the side cover (see
coils for continuity. If the wiring checks out OK, the stator coils are illustration). Disconnect the regulator/rectifier wiring at the block
faulty and should be replaced; refer to Chapter 2, Section 19 for details connector, release its retaining bolts/nuts and remove the unit.
8-32 Chapter 8 Electrical system

1... FRON f nJR.:-l

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Wiring diagram - 1982 750 Sabre

 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-33

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Wiring diagram- 1982 750 Sabre

8-34 Chapter 8 Electrical system

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 Chapt er 8 Electri cal system
8-35

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8-36 Chapter 8 Electrical system
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Wiring diagram - 1984185 700 Sabres

 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-37
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8-38 Chapter 8 Electrical system

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Wiring diagram - VF7505-C UK model

 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-39

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8-40 Chapter 8 Electrical system

_iliDiCATDR LlGHT CLUSTER l2V3'<Xe

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FUEL RESER\E WARNING INDICATOR FUSE 15A < TUR~ SIGNAL-FRONI, REAR BRAKE -HORN>
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Chapte r 8 Electrical system 8-41

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Wiring diagram- 1982 750 Magna

8-42 Chapter 8 Electrical system
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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-43
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/

8-44 Chapter 8 Electrical system

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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-45

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8-46 Chapter 8 Electrical system
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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-47
BUTDI SVITO<

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8-48 Chapter 8 Electrical system
TUIII

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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-49
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8-50 Chapter 8 Electrical system
FUSE A-.._. . 1011
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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-51
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8-52 Chapter 8 Electrical system
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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-53

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8-54 Chapter 8 Electrical system
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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-55
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8-56 ChapterS Electrical system
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 Chapter 8 Electrical system 8-59

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8-60 Chapter 8 Electrical system

Conversion factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in) X 25.4 = Milllmetres (mm) X 0.0394 = Inches (in)
Feet (ft) X 0 .305 =Metres (m) X 3.281 = Feet (ft)
Miles X 1.609 = Kilometres (km) X 0.621 =Miles

Volume (capacity)
Cubic Inches (cu In; ln3 ) X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm 3 ) X 0.061 = Cubic Inches (cu in; in3 )
Imperial pints (Imp pt) X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.137 = Lltres (I) X 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) X 0.833 =Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) X 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres (I) X 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz) X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.035 Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb) X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) X 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz) X 0 .278 = Newtons (N) X 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
Newtons (N)
X 4.448
X 0.1
=
Newtons (N)
= Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)
X 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
X 9.81 = Newtons (N)

Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square X 14.223 = Pounds-force per square Inch
(psi; lbf/in2 ; lb/ in2 ) centimetre (kgf/cm 2 ; kg/cm 2 ) (psi; lbf/ln2 ; lb/in2 )
Pounds-force per square Inch X 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) X 14.696 = Pounds-force per square Inch
(psi; lbf/ln2 ; lb/ln2 ) (psi; lbf/ in2 ; lb/in 2)
Pounds-force per square Inch X 0.069 = Bars X 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/ln2 ; lb/in2 ) (psi; lbf/ in 2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square Inch X 6.895 = Kilopasca ls (kPa) X 0.145 = Pounds-force per square Inch
(psi; lbf/ln2 ; lb/in2 ) (psi; lbf/ in 2; lb/ in 2)
Kllopascals (kPa) X 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square X 98.1 = Kllopascals (kPa)
centimetre (k.gf/cm 2 ; kg/cm 2 )

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force Inches X 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre X 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf In; lb in) (kgf em; kg em) (lbf In; lb in)
Pounds-force Inches X 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) X 8.85 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force Inches X 0 .083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) X 12 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in) (lbf In; lb In)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) X 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres X 7.2:J3 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) X 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) X 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm) X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres X 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg m)

Power
Horsepower (hp) X 745.7 =Watts (W) X 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X 0.621 =Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*
'4i es per ~allon, Imperial (mpg) X 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/1) X 2.825 = Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)
Mnes per ga!lon, US (mpg) X 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/1) X 2 .352 = Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit (°C X 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; ° C) = (6 F- 32) X 0 .56

•.: is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (//100km),
wtMre mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 end mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235