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104-439-H19-L S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLO-SP. Final Factory Spec - 9 Septiembre.19

The document provides specifications for a long sleeve cotton cashmere pique polo shirt for Billy Reid's Holiday 2019 men's collection. It includes measurements for sizing from small to XXL as well as placement details for features like embroidery. Revisions were made on 6/24/2019 and 8/8/2019.
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
215 views16 pages

104-439-H19-L S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLO-SP. Final Factory Spec - 9 Septiembre.19

The document provides specifications for a long sleeve cotton cashmere pique polo shirt for Billy Reid's Holiday 2019 men's collection. It includes measurements for sizing from small to XXL as well as placement details for features like embroidery. Revisions were made on 6/24/2019 and 8/8/2019.
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as XLSX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Style Name: L/S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLLO Fabric/Yarn: DATE: 1/28/2018

Style #: 104-439 Delivery: Content: REV: 6/24/2019


Season: HOLIDAY 19 Factory: SOURCING PARTNERS Sample Size: MEDIUM REV: 8/8/2019
Style Name: L/S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLLO Fabric/Yarn: DATE: 1/28/2018
Style #: 104-439 Delivery: Content: REV: 6/24/2019
Season: HOLIDAY 19 Factory: SOURCING PARTNERS Sample Size: MEDIUM REV: 8/8/2019

BULK
SMS RECEIVED APPROVED
TOLERANCE SMS REQUESTED SPEC SPEC SPEC
1/28/2019 6/24/2019 6/24/2019
FRONT LENGTH @ HPS TO HEM 1/2" 26 3/4 27 1/4 26 3/4
BACK LENGTH @ HPS TO HEM 1/2" 27 3/4 28 1/4 27 3/4
ACROSS CHEST @ 5" BELOW HPS 1/4" 15 15 3/8 15
ACROSS BACK @ 5" BELOW HPS 1/4" 15 3/8 15 3/8 15 3/8
CHEST 1" BELOW ARMHOLE 1/2" 19 1/4 19 5/8 19 1/4
BOTTOM OPENING 1/2" 19 1/2 19 7/8 19 1/2
BOTTOM HEM HEIGHT 1/8" 3/4 3/4 3/4
SLEEVE LENGTH FROM SHOULDER POINT 1/4" 26 3/4 27 25 1/2
SHOULDER FROM POINT TO POINT 1/2" 16 1/2 16 5/8 16 1/2
SHOULDER SLOPE FROM HPS 1/8" 1 5/8 1 3/4 1 5/8
ARMHOLE STRAIGHT 1/4" 8 1/2 8 3/8 8 1/2
BICEP @ 1" BELOW ARMHOLE 1/4" 7 7 7
FOREARM 5" ABOVE SLEEVE OPENING 1/4" 5 1/4 5 3/8 5 1/4
SLEEVE OPENING 1/4" 4 1/4 4 5/8 4 1/4
NECK WIDTH - FROM SEAM TO SEAM 1/4" 7 1/2 7 1/2 7 1/2
NECK CIRCUMFERENCE - IN THE MIDDLE OF THE COLLAR STAND 1/4" 18 17 5/8 17 5/8
FRONT NECK DROP - FROM HPS OT SEAM 1/4" 3 3/8 3 1/4 3 3/8
BACK NECK DROP - FROM HPS TO SEAM 1/8" 5/8 1/2 5/8
COLLAR STAND HEIGHT @ CENTER BACK 1/8" 1 1/8 1 1/8 1 1/8
COLLAR STAND @ CENTER FRONT 1/8" 3/4 3/4 3/4
COLLAR LENGTH ALONG TOP COLLAR EDGE 1/4" 17 17 17
COLLAR HEIGHT @ CENTER BACK 1/8" 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 3/8
COLLAR POINT 1/8" 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 1/4
PLACKET LENGTH 1/8" 4 1/2 4 5/8 4 1/2
PLACKET WIDTH 1/8" 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4
1ST BUTTON POSITITON FROM NECK SEAM 1/8" 7/8 3/4 7/8
BUTTON DISTANCE 1/8" 1 1/2 1 5/8 1 1/2
EMBROIDERY PLACEMENT FROM HPS 1/4" 8
EMBROIDERY PLACEMENT FROM PLACKET EDGE 1/8 3
BILLY REID

Style Name: L/S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLLO Fabric/Yarn: DATE: 1/28/2018
Style #: 104-439 Delivery: Content: REV: 6/24/2019
Season: HOLIDAY 19 Factory: SOURCING PARSample Size: MEDIUM REV: 8/8/2019

TOLERANCE GRADING S M L XL XXL


6/24/2019
FRONT LENGTH @ HPS TO HEM 1/2" 3/4 26 26 3/4 27 1/2 28 1/4 29
BACK LENGTH @ HPS TO HEM 1/2" 3/4 27 27 3/4 28 1/2 29 1/4 30
ACROSS CHEST @ 5" BELOW HPS 1/4" 3/4 14 1/4 15 15 3/4 16 1/2 17 1/4
ACROSS BACK @ 5" BELOW HPS 1/4" 3/4 14 5/8 15 3/8 16 1/8 16 7/8 17 5/8
CHEST 1" BELOW ARMHOLE 1/2" 1 1/2 17 3/4 19 1/4 20 3/4 22 1/4 23 3/4
BOTTOM OPENING 1/2" 1 1/2 18 19 1/2 21 22 1/2 24
BOTTOM HEM HEIGHT 1/8" 0 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
SLEEVE LENGTH FROM SHOULDER POINT 1/4" 1/4 25 1/4 25 1/2 25 3/4 26 26 1/4
SHOULDER FROM POINT TO POINT 1/2" 3/4 15 3/4 16 1/2 17 1/4 18 18 3/4
SHOULDER SLOPE FROM HPS 1/8" 0 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 5/8
ARMHOLE STRAIGHT 1/4" 1/2 8 8 1/2 9 9 1/2 10
BICEP @ 1" BELOW ARMHOLE 1/4" 3/8 6 5/8 7 7 3/8 7 3/4 8 1/8
FOREARM 5" ABOVE SLEEVE OPENING 1/4" 5/16 4 15/16 5 1/4 5 9/16 5 7/8 6 3/16
SLEEVE OPENING 1/4" 1/4 4 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 5
NECK WIDTH - FROM SEAM TO SEAM 1/4" 3/8 7 1/8 7 1/2 7 7/8 8 1/4 8 5/8
NECK CIRCUMFERENCE - IN THE MIDDLE OF THE COLLAR STAND 1/4" 1 16 5/8 17 5/8 18 5/8 19 5/8 20 5/8
FRONT NECK DROP - FROM HPS OT SEAM 1/4" 1/4 3 1/8 3 3/8 3 5/8 3 7/8 4 1/8
BACK NECK DROP - FROM HPS TO SEAM 1/8" 0 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/8
COLLAR STAND HEIGHT @ CENTER BACK 1/8" 0 1 1/8 1 1/8 1 1/8 1 1/8 1 1/8
COLLAR STAND @ CENTER FRONT 1/8" 0 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
COLLAR LENGTH ALONG TOP COLLAR EDGE 1/4" 1 16 17 18 19 20
COLLAR HEIGHT @ CENTER BACK 1/8" 0 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8
COLLAR POINT 1/8" 0 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4
PLACKET LENGTH 1/8" 0 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 1/2 4 1/2
PLACKET WIDTH 1/8" 0 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4
1ST BUTTON POSITITON FROM NECK SEAM 1/8" 0 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 7/8
BUTTON DISTANCE 1/8" 0 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 1/2
EMBROIDERY PLACEMENT FROM HPS 1/4" 3/8 8 8 8 8 3/8 8 3/8
EMBROIDERY PLACEMENT FROM PLACKET EDGE 1/8 1/8 2 7/8 3 3 1/8 3 1/4 3 3/8
CE 5/27: BULK CHANGES: APPROVED HEIRLOOM EMBROIDERY, REMOVED ONE BUTTON AT CENTER FRONT.
SEASON HOLIDAY 19 Date of last change:
UPDATED CO/CA LABEL ARTICLE NUMBER
DIVISION BILLY REID MEN'S Date of last change: CE 6/11: CHANGED BACK TO 3 BUTTONS AT PLACKET

STYLE # 104-439 Date of last change: CE 8/16: ADDED EMBROIDERY THREAD COLORS
L/S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE
STYLE DESC. Date of last change:
POLO
PATTERN # Date of last change:

FACTORY SOURCING PARTNERS Date of last change:

DATE 1/28/2019 Date of last change:

ITEM INTERNAL NAME ARTICLE # WIDTH /SIZE QTY UOM PLACEMENT RESP BLACK NATURAL

FABRIC PANEL WASH FABRIC PANEL WASH


FINISHING PROCESS FTY
LIGHT STEAM ON TRIMS LIGHT STEAM ON TRIMS

FABRIC 1 COTTON CASHMERE YARNS BYR-9313, Pima Cashmere Pique simple, MT FTY
KNITTED IN PIQUE STITCH 30/1, 85% pima + 15% cashmere, 170 gsm
(?)- follow Fa17 swatch

CREAM (same as F19 Cotton


BLACK MELANGE SFN77
Cashmere Pique Polo 104-393)

CREAM (same as F19 Cotton


FABRIC 2 1X1 RIB FKR SOLID - PIMA CASHMERE 1. COLLAR BLACK MELANGE SFN77
Cashmere Pique Polo 104-393)

HEIRLOOM RIBBON BLACK = 1800


TRIM 1 SEE TECH PACK BLACK/GOLD BLACK/GOLD
EMBROIDERY GOLD = 1673

ARACNE
1. WEARER'S RIGHT SIDE VENT
TRIM 2 COTTON HEIRLOOM TWILL TAPE 10 MM FTY DTM BODY NATURAL
BYR-01

SML
TRIM 3 10MM HEIRLOOOM RIBBON 10MM YD 1. WEARER'S LEFT SIDE VENT REID BLACK/GOLD BLACK/GOLD
BYR#T93-02HR

1. .3 @ CENTER FRONT
TRIM 4 BUTTONS 18L 4 PC REID SMOKE MOP MOP
2. 1 EXTRA

BLACK: DARK COLORS BLACK: DARK COLORS


TRIM 5 INTERFACING TP 62 - 62 GRM / GUSTAVO SANCHEZ UNDER PLACKET FTY
WHITE: LIGHT COLORS WHITE: LIGHT COLORS

TRIM 6 MOBILON 1/4" SHOULDERS FTY CLEAR CLEAR

27-TEX ALL THE TOP STITCHES, BUTTONHOLES


THREAD 1 TREN TEX 27 MT FTY DTM TONAL TO BODY DTM TONAL TO BODY
100% POLYESTER INTERNAL SEAMS ( Overlock)

27-TEX
THREAD 2 TREN TEX 27 MT FOR THE BUTTONS FTY DTM TO THE BUTTON DTM TO THE BUTTON
100% POLYESTER

27-TEX FOR THE INTERIOR WEARERS LEFT SIDE SLIT


THREAD 3 TREN TEX 27 MT FTY GOLD GOLD
100% POLYESTER (HEIRLOOM RIBBON)

27-TEX 1.MAIN LABEL DTM LABEL / DTM LABEL /


THREAD 4 TREN TEX 27 MT FTY
100% POLYESTER 2. COTTON CASHMERE LABEL DTM BODY SIDE BODY DTM BODY SIDE BODY

MAIN LABEL MAIN LABEL PERU TRADER # EF 995 PBS 35 1 PC SEE LABEL PLACEMENT PAGE REID

PERU TRADER # EF 1472 PB08


COTTON CASHMERE LABEL COTTON CASHMERE LABEL 1 PC SEE LABEL PLACEMENT PAGE
PERU TRADER # 1585 EF 1472 PB08 CC

COO LABEL COO LABEL PERU TRADER # EF 996 PBS 14 1 PC SEE LABEL PLACEMENT PAGE REID

CARE & CONTENT LABEL CARE & CONTENT LABEL PERU TRADER # EF 1427 SB 032 1 PC SEE LABEL PLACEMENT PAGE REID

HANGTAG HANGTAG MAINLINE PERU TRADER # HTAG 285 BRN50 1 PC AT COUNTRY OF ORIGIN LABEL REID BLACK BLACK

STICKERS 2 At the back of the Hang Tag and at the polybag FTY

POLYBAG 1 For garment FTY

TISSUE PAPER 72 + 36 CM 1 In garment FTY


Style Name: L/S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLLO Fabric/Yarn: DATE: 1/28/2018
Style #: 104-439 Delivery: Content: REV: 6/24/2019
Season: HOLIDAY 19 Factory: SOURCING PARTNERS Sample Size: MEDIUM REV: 8/8/2019
Area on Gmt Stitching CONSTRUCTION

COLLAR COLLAR IS FULLY FASHIONED 1X1 RIB


1X1 RIB FULLY FASHIONED

EXTERIOR COLLAR STAND IS SELF


COLLAR STAND INTERIOR COLLAR STAND IN SELF
SNES W/ EDGE STICH AROUND COLLAR STAND
1X BUTTON AT COLLAR STAND WITH HORIZONTAL BUTTONHOLE

Set on placket.
Sewn w/ 1/4" snts at sides and 1" sn box stich from bottom of placket
box stich @ bottom of placket as per design tab
PLACKET 1/4" SNTS
X3 buttons at placket, vertical buttonholes for lower 2 buttons and horizontal buttonhole for top buttonhole @
collar stand.
ALL OF PLACKET IN SELF

ARMHOLE 1/4" Single Needle merrow + 1/4" snts @ armhole seams

SHOULDER
ARMHOLE 1/4" Single Needle + mobilon with mobilon at shoulder seams, merrow + 1/4" snts

SIDE SEAMS
SLEEVE UNDER SEAMS Overlock 4 thread Overlock seam allowance together, clean finish

-BODY HEM
3/4" BEND BACK AND BLIND HEM 3/4" hem @ and apply blind hem
-SLEEVE HEM

Use twill tape (wearer's right) and heirloom ribbon (wearer's left) to face side slit @ side seam, apply with single
SIDE SLITS Single Needle needle edge stitch.

HEIRLOOM RIBBON
PATCH WILL BE EMBROIDERED ON TO WEARER'S LEFT CHEST 8" FROM HPS AND 3" FROM EDGE OF CF PLACKET
EMBROIDERY

Main Label is applied in inner CB. Vertical edges are folded and Applied with single needle edgestitch @ vertical
MAIN LABEL Single Needle edges.

cotton cashmere Label is applied in inner CB NECK edges are folded and Applied with single needle edgestitch @
COTTON CASHMERE LABEL Single Needle vertical edges. Please refer to label placement tab for placeemnt

COO LABEL
Single Needle coo label is clean inished into neck seam, see label placement page for placement

Care and content label is clean finished into wearers left interior side seam add extra button @ care and content
CARE AND CONTENT Single Needle label, please refer to label placement page for placement
COMMENTS & REVISIONS HISTORY

BILLY REID
LS COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLO
HO'19
MEN'S

**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE DATE COMMENT/REVISION VENDOR REPLY ATTACHMENTS

Proto Comments SP Lima Office . ( Internal approval)


Please see the comments below:
PROTO February Ketty T
19th,2019 1.- MATERIALS
Fabric and trim are correct according to the BOM

2- WASH PROCESS : PANEL WASH +SILICON


- Proto has the correct wash process.

3- FINISH PROCESS : LIGHT STEAM ON TRIMS


- Proto has the correct finish process.

However pay attention to the following comment for SMS :


Do not press the shoulders and neck in the HPS, to avoid spikes that cause a bad appearance in the
finished garment.

PATCH TRIM -
SMS garments sent in two options
OPT#1 - BR HEIRLOOM PATCH (BR Supplier)
OPT#2 - DIRECT EMBROIDERY
*Please advise which option to proceed for bulk production
4- CONSTRUCTION
- Is according to spec .

However, pay attention to the following comments for production:


-Keep all seams with good regulation.
-Maintain the symmetrical shapes of the neckline, shoulders, armholes and side seams.
-Keep all seams finished clean.
-In general keep the garment with good appearance.

6- MEASUREMENT
- Measurements are inside of tolerance with exception:
*Front length : +1"
*Back length : + 3/4"
*Sleeve length from cb: + 1 1/2"
*Neck width : +3/8"

- Take note that the measures mentioned below are not congruent. For this reason they were
updated to work as reference style FA'19 104-393

* Neck circunference : Correct measure is 18" instead of 17 1/2"


* Collar length along top collar edge : Correct measure is 17" instead of 18 1/2"

For SMS , the factory must keep all measures inside of tolerance.
- See in the next page the Measurements Audit report.
COMMENTS & REVISIONS HISTORY

BILLY REID
LS COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLO
HO'19
MEN'S

**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE DATE COMMENT/REVISION VENDOR REPLY ATTACHMENTS

SMS Comments SP Lima Office .


SMS December Ketty T
20th ,2018 1.- MATERIALS
NOTED
- Fabric and trims are correct .

2- HEIRLOOM RIBBON IRON ON PATCH / HEIRLOOM RIBBON EMBROIDERY


EMBORIDERY
Two options were worked on in the SMS: "Iron on patch" and "Embroidery" IS APPROVED
Please confirm which opction is approved for production. FOR
PRODUCTION

3- WASH PROCESS : PANEL WASH


SMS have the correct wash process. NOTED

4- FINISH PROCESS : LIGHT STEAM


SMS have the correct finish process. NOTED

4- CONSTRUCTION
Is according to spec .
NOTED

5- MEASUREMENT
- Measurements are inside of tolerance with exception:
* Sleeve length from CB TO shoulder to sleeve edge: +3/4"
* Neck width from seam - seam : +1/2" / +3/8"

NOTED, SP
- Take note that the measures mentioned below are not correct. MEASUREME
For this reason the were updated to work as reference style FA'19 104-393 NT UPDATES
APPROVED
FOR BULK
* Neck circunference : Correct measure is 18" instead of 17 1/2"
* Collar length along top collar edge : Correct measure is 17" instead of 18 1/2"

- See in the next page the Measurements Audit report.


BILLY REID
L/S COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLLO
HOLIDAY 19
MEN'S
**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE DATE INITIALS COMMENT/REVISION VENDOR REPLY DATE

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER UPDATED LABEL PLACEMENT, REFER TO LABEL PLACEMENT TAB.

PRESS COLLAR TO COVER COLLARSTAND WHEN FOLDED OVER, RIGHT NOW 3/8" OF
SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER
COLLAR STAND IS EXPOSED @ CB NECK. REFER TO IMAGE # 1 BELOW.

CHEST PATCH IS CROOKED, PLEASE CORRECT FOR BULK


SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER
REDUCE CHEST PATCH PLACEMENT FROM HPS 1" TO BE 8"

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER REMOVE X STTICH @ BOX STTICH @ PLACKET

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER REDUCE FRONT LENGTH 1/2" TO GO BACK TO SPEC

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER REDUCE BACK LENGTH 1/2" TO GO BACK TO SPEC

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER REDUCE ACROSS CHEST 3/8" TO GO BACK TO SPEC

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER REDUCE SLEEVE LENGTH 1 1/2" TO BE 25 1/2"

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER REDUCE SLEEVE OPENING 3/8" TO GO BACK TO SPEC

SMS COMMENTS 8-Aug-19 ER GRADE FOR FRONT NECK DROP UPDATED TO BE 1/4" AS ADVISED BY SP

SMS COMMENTS 8-Aug-19 ER upgrade the grade “NECK CIRCUNFERENCE & COLLAR LENGTH” "from 7/8" to 1"

SMS COMMENTS 6-Sep-19 ER GRADE OF SLEEVE LENGTH UPDATED TO BE 1/4" AS ADVISED BY FACTORY

ALL MEASUREMENTS HIGHTLIGHTED IN RED IN SMS RECEIVED ARE WITHIN


SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER
TOLERANCE AND MUST REMAIN WITHIN TOLERANCE

SMS COMMENTS 24-Jun-19 ER AFTER ALL COMMENTS AND UPDATES PLEASE PROCEED TO BULK

1
COMMENTS & REVISIONS HISTORY

BILLY REID
LS COTTON CASHMERE PIQUE POLO
HO'19
MEN'S
**PLEASE DATE AND INITIAL ALL COMMENTS; NOTE ANY RELEVANT ATTACHMENTS, ILLUSTRATIONS, or PACKAGES
SAMPLE DATE COMMENT/REVISION
PPS Comments SP Lima Office . ( Internal approval)
Please see the comments below:
PPS September Ketty T
06th ,2019 1.- MATERIALS
- Fabric and trims used in PPS are correct of the produccion.

2- WASH PROCESS : PANEL WASH


PPS has the correct wash process.

3- FINISH PROCESS : LIGHT STEAM ON TRIMS


PPS has correct finish process.

4- CONSTRUCTION
Is according to spec.
However, you should pay attention in production the following observations:
PLACKET :

Keep uniform lateral stitching width (1/4")


Because in PPS lateral stitching that is close
body is slightly wider than edge stitching.

Keep buttons centered and aligned.

BOTTOM HEM :
-Keep straight and aligned.
-Take care that the bottom hem is not stretched. Because in the PPS the
bottom hem is slightly stretched.

The sides of the bottom hem


should not end up forming
tips.
They must keep the silhouette
as the pattern & sketch.
General comments:
*Keep all seams with good regulation.
*Keep the symmetrical shapes of the neckline, shoulders, armholes and side
seams.
*Keep all seams clean finish.
*Keep SPI 11-12
*In general keep the garments with good appearance.

HEIRLOOM RIBBON EMBROIDERY

PPS has correct embroidery approved.


However pay attention:
Keep the embroidery straight on the top edge. In the PPS it looks slightly inclined.
This the ccustomer commented on the SMS. Please be sure to correct for production.
(I will add the photo as soon as the PPS is returned)

5- MEASUREMENT
- For produccion : The factory must adjust these measures that are out of tolerance in
the PPS.
* Across chest @ 5" below HPS: +1/2" , Tolerance is 1/4"
* Sleeve length from shoulder point : +3/8" , Tolerance is 1/4"
* Neck witdh from seam to seam : +1/2" , Tolerance is 1/4"
* Neck circunference : +3/8" , Tolerance is 1/4"

- See in the next page the Measurements Audit report.

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