TOP 10

TO
SAN
NAANTO
NTONIO
& AU
AUSTI
TIN

NANC
NA CYYM
MIKULA
IK
KULA
A

EY
YEW
EWITTNESS
NESS TR
TRAVE
VEL
Co e s
Contents

Left East 6th Street, Austin Center SeaWorld San Antonio Right Archway, Concepción Mission

Contents
San Antonio & Austin’s
Top 10
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore San Antonio’s Highlights 6
Printed and bound in China by South
River Walk 8
China Printing Co. Ltd.
The Alamo 10
First American edition, 2007
07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 San Antonio Missions
Published in the United States by National Historical Park 14
DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street,
New York, New York 10014 The McNay Art Museum 18
Copyright 2007 © San Fernando Cathedral 20
Dorling Kindersley Limited
La Villita National
All rights reserved under International Historic District 22
and Pan-American Copyright
Conventions. No part of this publication King William
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval Historic District 24
system, or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronic, mechanical, SeaWorld San Antonio 26
photocopying, recording or otherwise, San Antonio Botanical
without the prior written permission of
Garden & Lucile Halsell
the copyright owner. Published in Great
Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Conservatory 30
ISSN 1479-344X Brackenridge Park 32
ISBN: 978-0-75662-487-3 San Antonio Zoo 34
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no Moments in History 36
hierarchy of quality or popularity is
Historic Sites 38
implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s
opinion, of roughly equal merit. Museums 40

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL.

Cover: Front – Alamy Images: Mira bl; Corbis: Richard Cummins main image; DK Images: Paul Frankin clb.
Spine – DK Images: Paul Franklin b. Back – DK Images: Paul Franklin cla, ca, cra.
 Co te ts
Contents
Left Mission San José Center Restaurant, Austin Right Army Medical Department Museum

Architectural Highlights 42 Austin 90

Parks, Gardens, and South of San Antonio 96
Natural Wonders 46
Streetsmart
Shopping Areas 48
Planning Your Trip 104
Performing Arts Venues 50
Getting to San Antonio
Children’s Attractions 52
& Austin 105
Texas Style Cuisine 54
Getting Around 106
Restaurants 56
Things to Avoid 107
Nightlife 58 Budget Tips 108
Outdoor Activities 60 Special Needs Tips 109
Cultural Experiences 62 Security and Health 110
Festivals and Events 64 Banking and
Communications 111
Around Town Shopping Tips 112
Downtown San Antonio 68 Eating and
Beyond Downtown Accommodations Tips 113
San Antonio 74 Places to Stay 114
Hill Country 80 General Index 120

Left Courtyard door, The McNay Art Museum Right San Antonio Cowboy Museum, Alamo Plaza

K y to abbreviations
Key bb i i
Ad admission
Adm d i i charge
h Dis. access di
Dis
Di disabled
bl d access
 SAN
S AN
ANTONIO
A NTONIO &
AUSTIN
AU STIN’S

SAN ANTONIO & AUSTIN’S TOP 10

TOP 10
TO 10
SSan
an Antonio’s
Antonio
o’ss Highlights
Higghligghts
6–7
6–7
River
R ivver Walk
Walkk
8–9
8–9
TThe
he Alamo
Alaamo
10
10–13
0–13
SSan
an A Antonio
ntonioo
Missions
M isssio
ons National
Natio onal
Historical
H issto
oriccal Park
Park
14
14–17
4–17
TThe
he McNay
McNay Art
Art Museum
Museum
18
18–19
8–19
SSan
an Fernando
Fernando Cathedral
Cathedral
20–21
20–21
LLaa Villita
Villitta National
Natioonal
Historic
H isstoricc District
Disstrricct
22–23
22–23
King
K in
ng William
Williaam
Historic
H isstoricc District
Disstrricct
24–25
24–25
SSeaWorld
eaWorld
d San
San Antonio
Antonio
o
26–27
26–27
SSan
an Antonio
Antonio
o Botanical
Botaniccal
Garden
G arden & Lucile
Lucilee Halsell
Halssell
Conservato
Conservatoryoryy
30–31
30–31
Brackenridge
B raackenrid
dge Park
Park
32–35
32–35
TTop
op Ten
Ten of
of Everything
Everythin
ng
36–65
36–65
 San Antonio’s Highlights
A colorful history, as well as a dazzling array of world-class attractions and
lively festivals, make San Antonio one of the most popular destinations in
Texas. It is also frequently listed as one of the top ten places to visit in the
p 10

United States. The city’s rich cultural mix of early Spanish mission beginnings,
German settlement, cowboy heritage, and strong ties to Mexico has created a
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

warm and progressive city. It also boasts four of the m

in the state, including the River Walk, the Alamo, Mis
Historical Park, and SeaWorld. Plenty of sunshine also $66 ( 5 2$'

6 $ 1 3 ( ' 5 2 $9
San Antonio a year-round favorite with all visitors. 

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Missions National
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Historical Park
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Four remarkable missions
5 2 2 6 ( 9 ( /7 $ 9 (

offer a fascinating glimpse

into the confluence of
Spanish and Native cultures
in the 1700s. It offers an
opportunity to explore old
courtyards and serene
churches (see pp14–17).

The McNay Art

$ Museum
An exquisite Spanish
Colonial mansion
houses a compre-
hensive collection of
19th- and 20th-century % San Fernando
Cathedral
paintings and prints by The oldest cathedral in the
notable artists such as United States, where
Rodin, Cézanne, Mexican General Santa Anna
Picasso, Gauguin, flew the red flag, signaling
Matisse, O’Keeffe, and “no mercy,” sits in the center
Hopper (see pp18–19). of the city (see pp20–21).

6 Previous
P i pages: T
Tower Lif
Life B
Building
ildi along
l San
S A Antonio
t i RiRiver
 La Villita National
^ Historic District
This charming historic
village of delightful
boutiques, craft shops,
galleries, and restaurants

San Antonio
Sa
is located above the
south bank of the River
Walk (see pp22–3).

7KH0F1D\
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One of the most beautiful

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is now a museum (see pp24–5).

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Antonio
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marine-life adventure park

presents amazing shows
& / $ 5 . $9 ( 1 8 (

teeming with leaping killer

whales, playful dolphins,
and penguins. There is also
 an adventure and water
park (see pp26–7).
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spectrum of
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profusion of
ering plants
(see pp30–31).

) Brackenridge Park
San Antonio’s idyllic
urban park along the San
Antonio River is home to
some of the city’s top
attractions. The San Antonio
Zoo is one of the best in the
country and the museums
are fascinating. A miniature
railroad runs through the
park (see pp32–5).

D nott miss
Do i ththe b
beautiful
tif l courtyard
t d with
ith th
the R
Renoir
i sculpture,
sculpture
l t 7
accessible from inside The McNayy Art Museum.
Museum
 River Walk (El Paseo del Rio)
Lined with colorful cafés, the beautiful Paseo del
Rio, or River Walk, is the most visited place in San
Antonio and one of the most popular tourist
p 10

destinations in the US. The central area is vibrant,

with mariachi bands playing and tourist-filled
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

barges motoring down the river. Located 20 ft

(6 m) below street level, the River Walk feels like Mariachi musician at a café

a world apart, with picturesque footbridges and

fountains lining the walkway as it passes by some
of the city’s most prominent hotels and clubs.

Top 10 Features
1 Boat Cruise on the River
2 Aztec On The River
3 Convention Center and
HemisFair Park
4 Arneson River Theatre
5 Statue of Saint Anthony
6 Bowen’s Island
7 The Landing
8 Restaurants and Cafés
S

9 Rivercenter Mall
0 Bridges

Boat Cruise on
! the River
A boat cruise is one of the
best ways to experience
the River Walk (right). The
tour motors gently past
the bustling cafés while
the guide explains the
history of the River Walk.

# Convention Center
and HemisFair Park
The H.B. González
Convention Center on the
River Walk Extension was
built for the 1968 HemisFair.
Behind the center, glass-
walled elevators rise 500 ft
(152 m) to the Tower of the
Americas’ observation deck.

@ Aztec On The River

This magnificent silent $ Arneson
Theatre
River

movie theater was restored In this intimate open-air

to its 1920s grandeur in theater the river flows
2006, with the original serenely between audience
sculptures (above), murals, and stage. Walk up the
and the two-story chand- grass-covered steps to La
elier restored. Villita (see pp22–23).

8
% Statue of

34 2 % % 4

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Saint Anthony

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San Antonio & Austin’s Top



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1968 HemisFair.

& The Landing

This is the River Walk’s
best known live music
venue and one of its first
businesses (left & see
p58). Jim Cullum’s radio
program, Riverwalk, Live
from the Landing, is
broadcast from here.

Restaurants and
* Cafés
Dozens of fine restaurants
and cafés line the River
Walk, many offering river-

p 10
side dining as well. Casa
Rio Mexican Restaurant
(below), is the oldest
restaurant here, dating
from 1946.
) Bridges
All 35 bridges along
the River Walk are unique.
Colorful tiles on the lamp
posts of Houston Street
Bridge honor the missions
situated along the mission
trail (see pp14–15).

River Walk History

In 1921, a devastating
^ Bowen’s Island
This beautifully ( Rivercenter Mall
With 125 stores, an flood killed many people
landscaped section of IMAX theater, and the in the downtown area. A
the River Walk is quiet, Rivercenter Comedy flood control system
offering public benches in Club (see p59), this huge was installed to protect
shaded spots. Originally a mall (below)) is also one the river bend. Robert
low-lying peninsula owned of the few places on the H.H. Hugman (see p37)
by the Canary Islanders River Walk with several proposed a walkway
h l di S h i i d along the river and the
River Walk was comp-
leted in 1941. Having
fallen into disrepair, the
walk was revamped in
time for the HemisFair.
Anticipating big crowds,
new businesses
opened, which
regenerated the area.

9
 The Alamo
World renowned as a symbol of bravery and defiance, the
Alamo today is maintained as a shrine to the heroes of March
1836. The first Spanish mission to be built along the San
p 10

Antonio River, it was nicknamed the Alamo by the Spanish

military after the 1790s. It served as an outpost for Spanish,
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

then rebel, and finally Mexican forces until 1835, when Ben Costumed actor at
Milam defeated Mexican General Cós to occupy the Alamo. the Alamo

Top 10 Features
1 Chapel
2 Sacristy Rooms
3 Clara Driscoll Theater
4 Long Barrack
5 Wall of History
6 Alamo Plaza
7 Alamo Cenotaph
8 Gift Museum
9 Acequia
0 Daughters of the Republic of
Texas (DRT) Library
S

! Chapel
The mission chapel
(right) is maintained as the
Shrine of Texas Liberty in
honor of the heroes who
fought here against over-
whelming odds for 13 days
in 1836. The large door at £ Clara Driscoll
Theater
the rear once led to the The small theater is located
residence of defender in the Long Barrack. A
James Bowie’s in-laws. superb short film presents
the historic events leading
@ Sacristy Rooms
The small sacristy rooms
up to the Battle of the
Alamo, and the 13-day siege
were the only quarters in the that ended shortly after
chapel with a ceiling in 1836, dawn on March 6, 1836.
and were used to shelter
women and children during
the siege. Today, they display $ Long Barrack
Some of the bloodiest
battle artifacts, such as Will- fighting of the 1836 battle
iam Barret Travis’s ring and a occurred in this long,
buckskin vest belonging to narrow building (left), the
Davy Crockett ((see p12). mission convento where
priests once lived.
The Long Barrack
and the mission
church are the
only two original
buildings that
remain. Exhibits
at this museum
tell the story of
the Alamo.

10 Th Al
The Alamo became
b the
th official
ffi i l name off th
the mission
i i iin 1905 when
h
the DRT p
purchased the complex
complex.
p
 % Wall of History

%4
2%
This exhibit (left)

34
!,!
.

!-
presents 300 years of

.(


"/
history, starting with % #2/#
+ %44
the Native American
inhabitants, and the sta

San Antonio
Sa
of the mission and its
secularization. The military ^ Alamo Plaza
Much of the battle
history began when it was took place within the
leased to a Spanish mission grounds, in the
cavalry unit who nick- area in front of the Chapel
named it the Alamo. and the Long Barrack that

to o & Austin’s
today is Alamo Plaza. A
plaque marks the location
of the Low Barrack, which
was the original entrance.

& Alamo Cenotaph

The 60 ft (18 m) high

ust s Top
granite and marble
monument (below) is a
memorial to the men
who died in 1836. Names
and images of the heroic
defenders are incor-
porated into The Spirit

op 10
of Sacrifice created by
Pompeo Coppinni.

* Gift Museum
This large museum ( Acequia
The remains of the
and gift shop was built original acequia, or hand-
in 1939 and displays dug ditch (below), which
historical portraits and brought water from the
documents. The river into the compound,
highlight here is the can still be seen behind
large diorama of the the Chapel and the Gift
final assault created Museum. This reliable
Mission San
by Thomas Feely. source of water Antonio de Valero
bolstered the confidence The mission was named
Daughters of the
) Republic of Texas
of the defenders as they
waited for the battle.
after Saint Anthony of
Padua and the Spanish
(DRT) Library viceroy, the Duke of
Built in 1950, this fine Valero. Franciscan friars
research library was oversaw its construction
developed by the DRT, in 1718. It was moved
who saved the Alamo twice, first in 1720, to a
from being turned into a more fertile place, and
hotel. The non-circulating then to the present
collections explore the location after a severe
history of Texas. The flood in 1724. Originally
important documents built to convert Native
here include Santa Americans to
Anna’s will and a copy of Christianity, the mission
the Texas Declaration of was secularized in 1793.
Independence.

Th Alamo
The Al is
i maintained
i t i d as the
th Shrine
Sh i off Texas
T Liberty
Lib t 11
by
y the DRT
DRT.
 0
op 10

Plaque depicting a scene from the Texas War of Independence

Battle of The Alamo

s Top

! December 1835 – their way through the Mexican

o o & Austin’s

February 22, 1836 lines and into the Alamo. The

Colonel Ben Milam (see p37)) led number of defenders reached an
300 volunteers against Mexican estimated 189 men. Travis
us

troops in December 1835. After welcomed the reinforcements,

five days of fighting, during which but knew he needed far more.
Milam died, Mexican General Cós
surrendered and the Texans took
% March 2
San Antonio

over the Alamo. James Neill The Texas Declaration of

assumed command. Between Independence from Mexico was
January 19 and February 8, James approved by delegates meeting
Bowie, William Travis, and Davy at Washington-on-the-Brazos. On
Crockett arrived with more troops. March 3, Travis sent a courier to
On February 14 Neill left on an the delegates asking for more
emergency and Travis took over troops, and reaffirming his
Sa

command of the military, while intention to fight unto death, but

Bowie led the volunteers. no reinforcements were sent.

@ February 23
Antonio López de Santa Anna ^ March 5
On day 12, Santa Anna
(see p37), enraged by the defeat announced that the assault
of Cós, reached San Antonio with would begin the next day. His
his troops. The Texans retreated officers recommended waiting
into the Alamo complex, and Santa for the inevitable surrender when
Anna sent a courier offering an the Alamo ran out of provisions.
honorable surrender. Travis replied
by firing a cannon, and Mexicans
began to bombard the walls. & March 6, Before Dawn
At about 5am on Sunday,
March 6, the Mexican attack

£ Travis assumed full command

February 24 began. Mexican troops advanced
from all directions toward the
after Bowie fell ill, and wrote a battered compound walls.
letter addressed to all Texans and
Americans, recounting the 24-
hour bombardment, pledging that * March 6, The Alamo
When an estimated 1,800
he would not surrender, and Mexican troops advanced within
asking for immediate aid. Couriers range, the Texans fired their
James Bonham, Juan Seguin, and cannons and rifles. The heavy
others rode out for help. bombardment forced the
Mexican troops to halt but they

$ March 1
Lieutenant George Kimbell
quickly re-formed and attacked
again, penetrating the north wall.
and 32 men from Gonzales made Travis was one of the first to die.

12 Th San
The S Antonio
A t i Living
Li i History
Hi t Organization
O i ti holds
h ld eventst in
i Feb–
FFeb
b
Mar honoring
g the siege
siege.
g See wwwwww.sanantoniolivinghistory.org
sanantoniolivinghistory
g y org
g
( March 6, Long Barrack
Once the north side was ) March 6, Aftermath
The entire battle lasted less
penetrated, the beleaguered than 90 minutes. It is believed
defenders had to retreat to the that all 189 defenders and 600
Long Barrack’s narrow rooms, Mexican soldiers perished in

San Antonio & Austin’s Top

where the bloodiest close the fight. Santa Anna pledged
combat occurred. Bowie died in safe passage to non-combatant
the chapel, which was the last women, children, and slaves
part of the building to fall. Soon who were in the Alamo complex
after dawn the battle was over. during the battle.

Top 10 Defenders
of the Alamo
Remember
1 Ben Milam The Alamo!
2 James Clinton Neill The defeat at the Alamo galvanized the Texans,
3 James Bowie alerting them to the real danger of Santa Anna’s
4 William Barret Travis army, and the reality that the war for independence
5 Davy Crockett from Mexico was far from finished. Six weeks later, on
6 George C. Kimbell April 21, Sam Houston led his volunteer army into
7 James B. Bonham battle against Santa Anna and the Mexican forces at
8 Juan N. Seguin San Jacinto. Houston caught Santa Anna napping
9

p 10
Jose Toribio Losoya and attacked the Mexican army during their siesta.
0 John W. Smith
With the battle cry, “Remember the Alamo!”, he
defeated the army and captured Santa Anna. Victory
at San Jacinto came just six weeks after the
gruesome slaughter at the Alamo, and earned Texas
its long-sought independence from Mexico. Ever
since, “Remember the Alamo!”, has served as a
popular rallying cry, reminding Texans and Americans
of the importance of being willing to fight to protect
Detail, Alamo Memorial their freedom.

Sculpture of Texan soldiers at the Alamo Memorial

13
 San Antonio Missions
National Historical Park
Five missions established by Spain in the early 18th century formed the settlements
around which the city of San Antonio grew. They were established between 1718
p 10

and 1731 for political as well as religious reasons: Spain wanted to stop France
from spreading west beyond Louisiana, and to convert the Native Americans
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

to Roman Catholicism. Threatened by drought, disease, and hostile tribes

the Native Americans helped build the missions in exchange for protection.
Top 10 Features
1 Mission Concepción Church
2 Frescos at Mission
Concepción
3 Mission San José
4 Native American Quarters at
Mission San José
5 Mission Espada Church
6 Mission San Juan
7 San Juan Acequia
8 Espada Dam
9 Mission Espada Grounds
0 Espada Aqueduct
S

! Mission
Church
Concepción

The church at Mission

Nuestra Señora de la
Purisima Concepción de
Acuña is the oldest un- Mission Concepción church
restored stone Catholic
church in the US. Bui ssion San
bedrock, the chapel w sé
completed in 1755. argest of the
Antonio missions
@ Frescos
Mission
at founded in 1720
anciscan
Concepción onary, Father
Some of the colorful nio Margil de
frescos here were s (see p17). It has
purely decorative, wh n restored to look
others helped to teac t did in 1790.
Catholicism. Today, th
few complete ones
(below)) show a blend of $ Native American
Quarters at Mission
Christian, Spanish, and San José
Native artistic styles. The huge flat-topped stone
walls were built wide
enough to house two-room
apartments for indigenous
families. By 1768, 350 Native
Americans lived in the
complex. The men worked
in the fields, and in other
trades necessary to sustain
the mission.

14 T d
Today,
Today the
th four
f mission
i i chapels
h l are active
ti Roman
R Catholic
C th li
parishes
parishes.
parishes
 
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In 1731, Mission San
Francisco de la Espada

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was relocated from East 

Texas to its current 

San Antonio & Austin’s Top

location along San Antonio 

0,


River. The church with its
three-bell tower (left)) was  
completed in 1756.
Franciscans live and work
in the convento today.

^ Mission San Juan

Established in 1736,
the mission (above)) was
surrounded by fertile fields
growing corn, beans, and
sugarcane. By the mid-
1700s it traded goods as
far east as Louisiana, and

p 10
south to Coahuila, Mexico.

& San Juan Acequia

Missionaries found
that the acequiass brought
to Spain by the Romans
and Moors also worked
well in the Texan heat.
Seven miles (11 km) of
* Espada Dam
The oldest contin- ( Mission
Grounds
Espada acequiass gave water to
San Juan, and gateways
uously used Spanish-built This was the only San controlled the water-flow.
diversion dam in Texas has Antonio mission where
provided water for tiles and bricks were
irrigation since 1745. made. The bricks made
Mission Trail
Engineered by Franciscan here were of wide, thin, The trail is a 12 mile
missionaries and built by Roman style, and can still (19 km) driving route
the Native American be seen in old walls from the Alamo in
converts the dam was (below) and buildings. downtown San Antonio
originally 270 ft (82 m) Most of the buildings to Mission Espada. Start
long and 8 ft (2 m) high. were destroyed in a fire. from Alamo St, drive
down South St. Mary’s

) Espada Aqueduct
A remarkable
St to Mission Road,
which leads to Mission
engineering feat, this is Concepción. Follow the
the only Spanish colonial brown National Park
aqueduct in the US and signs from here to
was completed in 1745. missions San José, San
Water diverted from the Juan, and Espada. There
river flowed through an is also a 9 mile (14 km)
acequia, and entered the hike-and-bike path along
aqueduct to cross Piedras the San Antonio River
Creek. It continued on, to as it winds south past
irrigate the fields of the missions.
Mission Espada.

Th best
The b t map for
f the
th trail
t il is
i the
th National
N ti l Park
P k Map
M
Map. Pick
Pi k one up 15
at the Alamo,
Alamo, Mission Concepción
p or San José.
José
 p 10

Left Bell Tower Center Quadrangle Right Granary

Mission San José

San Antonio & Austin’s Top

! Church Façade
The imposing façade with its ^ Convento Ruins
The two-story convento
bell tower is famed for its housed the missionaries. Gothic
elaborate, asymmetrical appear- arches were introduced in 1861;
ance. The lavish entryway the Spanish arches are original.
displays six carved stone statues
of saints. Of these, Saint
Joseph, the mission’s patron & Museum and
Soldiers’ Quarters
saint, stands above the entrance. Housed in the former soldiers’
quarters, this small museum

@ Carved Symbols
Spanish artisans carved
chronicles the history of the
mission from its beginning
intricate teaching symbols int o the time after it was
the façade. The thorn- secularized in 1824.
enclosed heart represents

* Granary
S

Christ’s love for humanity, and Diorama

revealed through his pain. The large granary
Some of the angels, the features external flying
heavenly messengers, have buttresses, which supported
Native American features. the long walls. Today, there is
an excellent diorama of the

£ Rose Window
This window is one of
mission with a five-minute
narration of a typical day.
the highlights here. One Statue at
legend tells of the sculptor
lovingly working on “Rosa’s
entrance
(
Grist Mill
Wheat was introduced to
Window” for years, lamenting replace corn, which the Spanish
his dead sweetheart. thought inferior. The restored mill
still operates, using the unusual

$ Bell Tower and Stairway

Legend says that when the
horizontal water wheel. The mill
was designed to use water from
choir-stairway in the Bell Tower the acequia for power.
collapsed in 1903, each parish
family kept one step until repairs
were complete. The stairs were )
Quadrangle
This large open area inside
put back in place afterwards. the mission walls was used for
many daily activities. Native

% Sacristy Doors
The carved pomegranates on
women did their baking in the
communal ovens located near
these cedar doors, depicting their apartments, children were
seeds within the fruit, symbolize instructed in Catholicism, and the
the Church’s unity, while the red men practiced with their rifles as
juice is Christ’s blood. they trained to protect the mission.

16 F
Free guided
id d tours
tours,
t conducted
d t d through
th h the
th day,
day
d provide
id a
historical overview of the mission.
mission Call 505-476-5100
505 476 5100 for timings
timings.
g
 Top 10
Accomplishments
Father Margil,
1 Founded 15 Missions in “Apostle of Texas”
Costa Rica Antonio Margil de Jesús was born in Valencia, Spain,

San Antonio & Austin’s Top

2 Founded 10 Missions in in 1657. His devotion to the church became apparent
Guatemala at an early age and he became a Franciscan in
3 Founded three Catholic 1673. Margil received holy orders in 1682 and
Colleges volunteered for an assignment to do missionary work
4 Founded the Mission in New Spain in 1683. He was stationed at the
Nuestra Senora de famous missionary college of Santa Cruz, Querétaro,
Guadalupe at but traveled extensively, visiting missions in Yucatan,
Nacogdoches in East Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and especially in Guatemala
Texas, 1716 earning him the name “Apostle of Guatemala.”
5 Founded Mission Margil traveled to East Texas with the expedition of
Nuestra Senora de los Domingo Ramon in 1716, and became known as
Dolores in East Texas, the “Apostle of Texas.” From his earliest days in New
1717 Spain, he always walked barefoot, fasted every day,
6 Founded Mission San never ate meat or fish, and adhered to strict
Miguel de los Adaes in self-discipline. He slept for short periods, and prayed
East Texas, 1717 through the night. His efforts for the betterment of
7 He struck a rock in East Native Americans and colonists were crowned with

p 10
Texas during a time of extraordinary success.
drought, and water from
a spring known as “The
Eyes of Father Margil”,
poured forth to sustain
the Mission, in 1718
8 Founded Mission
San José y San Miguel
de Aguayo in San
Antonio, 1720
9 He died in Mexico City
in the famous Convento
Grande de San
Francisco, 1726
0 He was declared
venerable by Pope
Gregory XVI in 1836,
however, he has not yet
been beatified

Gothic and Spanish arches Mission chapel

17
 The McNay Art Museum
The impressive McNay Museum, housed in Marion Koogler
McNay’s stunning Spanish Colonial Revival-style mansion,
opened in 1954 as the first museum of modern art in Texas.
p 10

It has a magnificent compilation of 19th- and 20th-century

European and American art, sculpture, one of the best prints
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

and drawings collections, and the amazing Tobin Collection of Courtyard

Theatre Arts featuring set and costume designs and rare books. statue

Top 10 Features
1 European Theatre Arts (Tobin
Collection)
2 American Theatre Arts
3 Contemporary Art
4 European Paintings
5 American Modernism
6 Modern Prints and Drawings
! European Theatre
Arts (Tobin
Collection)
7 Sunset Hills This section of the Tobin
8 Oppenheimer Galleries Collection (above) includes
9 Southwest Santos opera and theater design-
0 Modern Sculpture ers, some of whom were
also painters or sculptors,
such as Pablo Picasso and 
American Theatre
@ Arts
Henri Matisse.

The American portion of Key

the vast Tobin Collection
1st Floor
includes works by well-
known Broadway designers 2nd Floor
who created scenes for
productions such as Damn
Yankees and South Pacific.

# Contemporary Art
The diverse paintings,
prints, and sculpture on
view here focus on Ameri-
can art after 1945. Works
by various noted Texan
artists are also displayed.

$ European Paintings
Many of the key works
in this exceptional collection
were selected by McNay
herself. She liked to collect
transitional or unusual
works by famous artists.
Displayed here are later
works by Cézanne and Van
Gogh, a powerful painting
by Gauguin (left), a Picasso
that combines analytic with
synthetic Cubism, and
paintings by many other
famous artists.

18
 American
% Modernism
A rich collection of works
by American artists,
including Arthur Dove,
Georgia O’Keeffe, John

San Antonio
Sa
Marin, Max Weber, and
Edward Hopper, whose
Corn Hill (left) is one of the
most popular paintings at
the museum.

to o & Austin’s
^ Modern Prints and
Drawings
The focus in this gallery is
on 19th-century French
and American, 20th-
 century Mexican and
German Expressionist,

ust s Top
and post-1960 American
prints and drawings.
Works by John, Cassatt,
Rivera, and Picasso (right)
 are part of the collection.

& Sunset Hills

op 10
Designed by noted
architects, Atlee and
 Robert Ayres, this 24-room
mansion (left) is in itself a
work of art. McNay’s
0

home until her death in
1950, Sunset Hills is now
a modern museum.

( Southwest Santos
Most of the religious * Oppenheimer
Galleries
 art (known as santos) This fascinating collection
were collected by McNay of Renaissance and
in the1920s and 30s, medieval sculpture and
when religious folk-art paintings was donated by
was being replaced with the Frederic Oppenheimer
mass-produced art. On family. The rich-hued works
 display are retablos feature religious subjects.
(paintings) and hand-
crafted bultos (sculpture).
Museum Guide
The main entrance is on
New Braunfels, just
north of Austin Hwy.
Parking is free. As you
enter the main lobby,
pick up the gallery map.
On the ground floor are
the museum store, print
gallery and European,
American Contemporary

) Modern Sculpture
Sculpture enhances every aspect of this
and Tobin Theatre Arts
Collections. Upstairs
museum’s collection and many works are displayed in you can see temporary,
the landscaped grounds. Highlights include works by changing exhibitions.
Henry Moore, George Rickey (above), and Rodin.

19
 San Fernando Cathedral
have been held in this grand French Gothic cathedral. Not just
a place of worship, San Fernando is today recognized as a
p 10

symbol of unity for the people of San Antonio. Mexican

General Santa Anna (see p37) flew the flag of no mercy from
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

its rooftop at the start of the seige of the Alamo, and it is here
that the ashes of the defenders of Alamo are purported to lie. Window detail

Top 10 Features
1 Sanctuary and First Church
2 Church Tower
3 Defenders of the Alamo
Sarcophagus
4 French Gothic Addition
5 Retablos
6 Statue of San Antonio
7 Statue of San Fernando
8 Baptismal Font
9 El Cristo Negro
0 Stations of the Cross,
Windows and Pipe Organ
S

! Sanctuary
Church
and First

The original church was built

between 1738–1749 and its
walls form the cathedral’s
sanctuary. The area in front
of the main retablo is the
principal chapel (right). On
the floor is a marker £ Defenders of the
Alamo Sarcophagus
indicating the city’s center. The marble coffin said to
hold the remains of some
@ Church Tower
The original tower was
of the Alamo defenders, is
located in a chapel in the
used by the Texans to spot southeast corner of the
the arrival of Santa Anna cathedral. The remains
and the Mexican army in were found buried under
1836. The tower was the sanctuary railing of the
removed during the original church in 1936.
construction of the French
Gothic addition in 1968.
$ French Gothic
Addition
In 1968, work began on the
massive French Gothic
Revival style addition that
replaced the front of the
original church. Designed
by Paris-trained architect,
François Giraud, the
cathedral was significantly
enlarged to contain a new
nave with magnificent
soaring ceilings.

20 P
Pope J
John
h Paul
P l II visited
i it d San
S Fernando
F d CCathedral
th d l iin 1987
1987, the
th first
fi t
and only
yppapal
p visit to Texas
Texas.
% Retablos
Three fabulous 18th 

century style retablos  
were created in 2002–3 
by Leonardo Soto

Recendiz, to replace

San Antonio & Austin’s Top

those lost in the fire of
1828. The splendid
central retablo, Jesus ( ElThisCristo Negro
replica of the
Christ,
t Word and Sacra- Black Christ brought from
ment (right), is gilded Esquipulas, Guatemala,
in 24-carat gold. in the 1980s, is one of
the most popular devo-
tional shrines in San Fer-
nando. Candles, pictures,
and notes are often left
here as petitions to God.

p 10
) Stations of the
Cross, Windows
and Pipe Organ
The carved-stone Stations
of the Cross and the
wooden pulpit date from
1874. The pipe organ is the
oldest in the city, and the
nine exquisite stained-
glass windows (above),
^ Statue
Antonio
of San
& Statue of San
Fernando
depicting 18 saints, date
from 1920.
In 1691, missionaries The beautifully
arrived at the San Antonio painted bronze
Cathedral Guide
River on the feast day of St statue of San
Anthony, a Franciscan who Fernando’s Enter the cathedral
died in Italy in 1231. This patron saint through the central east
statue of San Antonio, (right), is the doors. Ahead is the
patron saint of the city, oldest statue in carved stone baptismal
was created by Agustin the cathedral. font, with the statue of
Parra of Mexico in 2002. The church was San Fernando on the
named after the left. Straight ahead and
King of Castile, through the French
Ferdinand III, who Gothic nave is the floor
reigned in the13th century. marker indicating the
center of San Antonio,

* Baptismal Font
This ornate hand-
under the original dome.
The lovely retablos are
carved stone baptismal in the sanctuary. To the
font (left) is the oldest left of the east entrance
religious furnishing in the is the El Christo Negro,
cathedral, and is believed and the doorway to the
to have been a gift from sarcophagus of the
Charles III who became defenders of the Alamo.
King of Spain in 1759.

21
 La Villita National Historic District
San Antonio’s first neighborhood offers great shopping, fine
dining, and fascinating history. The district was once a military
post where families of Spanish soldiers lived in simple adobe
p 10

huts. The neighborhood became desirable after the 1819

flood destroyed many prominent citizens’ homes. European
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

immigrants settled here in the mid-1800s, and today artisans,

shops, and restaurants occupy the restored structures. Arts Village sign

Top 10 Features
1 The Little Church
2 The Cós House
3 Arneson River Theatre
4 McAlister House and Store
5 Otto Bombach House
6 Bowen/Kirchner House
7 St. Phillip’s College
8 Florian House
9 Losana House
0 Faville House

! The Little Church

This tiny Gothic Revival
S

church (right) with a beautiful

stained-glass window was
built in 1879 using stone
blocks from a quarry in
Brackenridge Park (see
pp32–3). Services were held
at this non-denominational
church, and today it is a
popular venue for weddings. # Arneson
Theatre
River

The San Antonio River runs

through this lovely theater,
and the grass-covered
steps that form the audi-
torium seats lead down to
the River Walk (see pp8–9).

$ McAlister
and Store
House

This large limestone building

built by Samuel McAllister in
@ The Cós House
Believed to be the oldest
1854 is occupied today by
Mustang Greys (below),
in La Villita, this house offering Texan apparel, and
(above) is where General the Guadalajara Grill.
Martin Perfecto de Cós
reportedly signed the
Articles of Capitulation for
the Mexican Army in 1835.
Known as the birthplace of
Texan Independence, the
house is available for small
functions, but is generally
closed to the public.

22
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Located on the San

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3/54(

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(right) was built in 1847

3/5
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and is unaltered since its 6! 34 2 % % 4

San Antonio
Sa
original construction. It
has housed many different
businesses, but for the
past 35 years has been
home to the Little Rhein
Steakhouse (see p55). been used for a variety

o o & Austin’s
of businesses. Today,
Lone Star Mercantile
offers a selection of T-
shirts, Texan cookbooks,
gourmet foods, jewelry,
and traditional gifts.

) Faville us s Top
op 10
House
Built around 1855 by
Franklin D. Faville, the
0
house has a typical full-
length gable running
parallel to its front. Today,
Monte Wade Fine Arts
Gallery (above) presents
Bowen/Kirchner
^ House * Florian House
Named for Polish
an excellent selection of
contemporary and tradi-
The original house was immigrant Erasmus tional art by established
constructed using caliche Florian, this 1834 building international artists.
blocks, and was built had a dramatically different
either by postmaster Victorian wing added after
Texas Revolution
John Bowen after 1851, the Civil War. Today, local
or by Auguste Kirchner artists (below) display Mexican General Cós
between 1871–73. Villita paintings, jewelry, and arrived in San Antonio in
Stained Glass now sells sculpture here, as part of October 1835, to end
vividly colored kaleido- the River Art Group. the rebellion. Defeated
scopes, sun-catchers, and by the Texans in Decem-
glass artworks here. ber, Cós signed the
Articles of Capitulation

& St. Phillip’s

College
at La Villita, relinquishing
Mexico’s claims to all
This pretty two-story lands north of the Rio
building from the early Grande. Sworn to
1900s was one of the revenge, Santa Anna
buildings which housed headed to San Antonio
St. Phillip’s College. in 1836 with about
Today, it houses the 6,000 Mexican troops.
Starving Artist Art Gallery He set up his cannon
which offers a selection line in La Villita for the
of handicrafts, original art- Battle of the Alamo.
work, and porcelain china.

23
 King William Historic District
The city’s most lavish and elegant homes are located in Kin
William Historic District, San Antonio’s first suburb. The
earliest houses, built in the 1860s, were simple dwellings,
p 10

but by the 1920s were surrounded by extravagant

mansions in a variety of differing architectural styles. Many
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

of the finest homes line King William Street, known as the

most beautiful residential street in Texas. Decorative plaque

Top 10 Features
1 Guenther House
2 Steves Homestead
3 San Antonio Conservation
Society
4 King William Park and
Bandstand
5 Johnson Street Foot Bridge
6 Edward Steves, Jr. House
7 Kalteyer House
8 San Antonio Art League
Museum
9 River Walk
0 Norton/Polk/Mathis House
S

£ San Antonio
Conservation
Society
This society is one of the
! Guenther House
Built in 1860 by Carl
most active community
conservation groups in the
Hilmar Guenther, founder US, and helps preserve
of Pioneer Flour Mills. The historic buildings. Founded
beautiful parlor (above) in 1924 by 13 women, it has
and library are open as a grown to 3,500 volunteers,
house museum, and an and is now based in the
excellent restaurant 1870 Anton Wulff House.
and bakery feature
King William
dishes made with
Pioneer Flour. $ Park and
Bandstand
@ Steves
Homestead
This lovely
bandstand was built
Built in 1876, this in 1892 on the
house was designed grounds of the United
by Alfred Giles. It States Arsenal. It was
showcases antiques moved in 1953 to King
(right) from Europe William Park, which
collected by the was acquired by the
houseowners, and is city in 1901 for payment
today a museum. of back taxes.

24
 7

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San Antonio & Austin’s Top

S
/
, !-
3!

% Johnson Street Foot Bridge

This pedestrian bridge (above) adorned w
spires, was built in 1983, to look very much l
old Commerce Street Bridge in downtown San ( The stretch of river
Antonio that spanned the river from 1880–1914. that flows through the
King William District is a
peaceful section of the
River Walk that attracts
early morning joggers
as well as leisurely
strollers (see pp8–9).

) Norton/Polk/
Mathis House
p 10
This Italianate Victorian
house has five styles of
columns and an intricate
frieze. Built in 1876 by
Russell Norton, it was
Edward Steves,
^ Jr. House & Kalteyer House
One of the few
expanded by Edward Polk.
The porches and Beaux
This lovely Italianate remaining residential Arts tower were added by
home (below), designed buildings designed by trail boss Ike T. Pryor.
by James Wahrenberger noted architect James
and Albert Felix Riley Gordon, the house
Sauerkraut Bend
Beckmann, was a (above) was constructed
wedding gift for Edward for pharmacist George The district was once
Steves, Jr in 1884. The Kalteyer in 1892. It is farmland belonging to
walls are of random- built in the Richardsonian Mission San Antonio de
coursed ashlar limestone. Romanesque style, with Valero. In the 1860s, the
powerful masonry forms current street plan was
and heavy proportions. designed. So many
wealthy German

* San Antonio Art

League Museum
merchants built homes
in the 1870s, that the
The McDaniel Carriage area became known as
House, built in 1896, was Sauerkraut Bend. It
restyled in 1972 to blend developed into a
in with the neighborhood neighborhood of large
architecture. It is now mansions shaded by
home to a small museum pecan trees, and the
and art gallery displaying main street was named
local and regional 20th- after King Wilhelm I,
century art with changing King of Prussia.
exhibits by Texan artists.

25
 SeaWorld San Antonio
Shamu and his fellow killer whales are the premier
The Great
attraction at this internationally acclaimed marine park, White ride
but they are just the first in a superb array of shows and
p 10

interactive, educational experiences. At the adventure park the inverted roller-

coaster, The Great White, takes riders through corkscrews and high-speed
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

maneuvers along 2,500 ft (762 m) of track. On summer evenings additional

shows feature pirates, more killer whales, and circus-style performances.

Top 10 Features
1 Believe!
2 Cannery Row Caper
3 Viva!
4 Haunted Lighthouse
5 Shamu’s Happy Harbor
6 Rio Loco
7 Rockin’ Ski Party
8 Lost Lagoon
9 Texas Splashdown
0 Steel Eel

! Believe!
This stunning theatrical
S

show (right) draws the

audience into the exp-
erience of training and
performing with Shamu
and other killer whales. The
story unfolds as a new,
young trainer swims with
the whales, builds trust,
and participates in the £ Viva!
This dazzling show
dazzling performance. presents the acrobats of
the sea, including Pacific
@ Cannery Row Caper
A caper with sea lions
white-sided dolphins and
Beluga whales, in a colorful
Clyde and Seamore, this production. Trained high-
show (below) is a takeoff divers, aerialists, and
on 1930s detective films. synchronized swimmers
Clyde and Seamore unravel perform against a dramatic
the mystery of the missing backdrop of water screens,
walrus against a wharf-side fountains, and waterfalls.
set with water jets.
$ Haunted Lighthouse
Four-dimensional effects
add to the fun of the film
Haunted Lighthouse, shown
in the Sea Star Theater. It is
based on a story by R. L.
Stein, author of the child-
ren’s books Goosebumps
and Nightmare Room. The
audience wear 3-D glasses,
while audio channels
project surround-sound, and
the seats shoot water.

26 Discounted
Di t d two
ttwo-day
day
d and
d seasonall passes are also
l available.
available
il bl
 3%! 7 ,

$
$2

0DLQ
0

. %
(QWUUDQFH
DQ
QFH
QF

San Antonio
Sa
Shamu’s Happy Harbor
% This kids’ paradise (above) is a huge playground in
the center of SeaWorld. A swinging bridge, climbing ^ Rio Loco
This exhilarating river
nets, and square-rigger with water-cannons give children ride takes you through an
a world of delight. 1,800 ft (549 m) long

o o & Austin’s
raging stream with rapids.
The river bends and dips
when least expected, with
the waterfall ensuring that
everyone leaves drenched.

us s Top
op 10
0
& Rockin’ Ski Party
This fast-paced water-
ski show (above) is set to
the rhythms of rock-and-
roll music. Daredevil
* Lost Lagoon
This paradise provides
skiers perform precision
acrobatics and stunts as
fun for thrill-seekers, sun- they glide across the
worshippers, and water- scenic Water Ski Lake.
lovers. Hop in a tube for a
river-ride, play in the wave-
Tours and
pool, or scream down the
450 ft (137 m) waterslide. Interaction
Programs
( Texas Splashdown
The longest, tallest
Special tours and
interactive programs
flume ride in Texas dren- enhance a visit to
ches everyone from start SeaWorld. Go backstage
to finish. The twisting to talk with a trainer, or
) Steel Eel
This electrifying
half-mile (0.8 km) route
includes two huge drops
step behind-the-scenes
on a tour for hands-on
hypercoaster ride (above) and a panoramic view of interaction with sharks,
starts out with an San Antonio. stingrays, dolphins, and
adrenalin pumping 15- sea lions. In-depth
story initial drop, then programs are available
roars over peaks, and year-round, such as the
goes through valleys and Beluga interaction
camelbacks as it speeds where you put on a
along 3,700 ft (1,128 m) wetsuit and slip into the
of radical twists and water with a whale.
turns in two minutes.

Extra
E t charges
h may apply
l for
f some off the
th programs.
programs 27
 San Antonio Botanical Garden
& Lucile Halsell Conservatory
Enter the beautifully landscaped grounds of the Botanical
p 10

Garden through the restored 1896 carriage house and you are
immediately engulfed by the brilliant colors and scents of the
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

Texas Rose Garden and the fragrance garden. The high-tech

centerpiece is the Lucile Halsell Conservatory, whose gleaming
cluster of glass and steel climate-controlled towers shelter
indoor jungles of tropical plants, ferns, and palms. The grounds
feature water gardens, ponds, and tiled fountains that Lucile Halsell
complement the seasonally changing formal gardens. Conservatory

Top 10 Features
1 Sullivan Carriage House
2 Overlook
3 Texas Native Trail
4 Lucile Halsell Conservatory
and Exhibition Room
5 Kumamoto En (Japanese
Garden)
6 Amphitheater
S

7 Desert Pavilion
8 Tropical Conservatory
9 Palm House
0 Fern Grotto and Orangerie

! Sullivan
House
Carriage

Designed by noted architect

Alfred Giles, this is now the
entrance to the gardens, and
houses the Carriage House
Kitchen restaurant, which £ Texas Native Trail
Three local ecosystems
offers lunches that are visual are presented on the trail
as well as culinary artworks. (below). Southwest Texas
includes drought-tolerant
@ Overlook
From the gazebo at the
shrubs. The East Texas
Pineywoods section
highest point in the features pine, magnolia,
grounds, stunning vistas and dogwood trees around
extend across the city. The a lake. The Hill Country
spiraling walkway offers has live oak, Uvalde maple,
views of the conservatory. and mountain laurel.

30 Previous
P i pages: L
Lucile
il Halsell
H l ll Conservatory
C t
 Lucile Halsell
$ Conservatory
and Exhibition
'PSNBM
(BSEFOT 
Room
This section of the


!$
Conservatory (see p43) 

2/
(BSEFO
 'PS
#MJOE 

San Antonio
Sa
).
presents orchids and 34
!5
&5.34/. 0,
bromeliads. The range o
flowers (left) is amazing
as most plants are moved
here only when in bloom. ( Palm House
The 65 ft (20 m) tall
Palm House (below) is the

o o & Austin’s
% Kumamoto En (Japanese Garden)
This garden (below) was designed by Kyoshi Yasui,
largest of the hothouses,
with a walkway that spirals
an expert gardener from Japan. More than 70 symbolic upward past cycads and
components of traditional Japanese gardens have been palms to an overlook.
incorporated, including a tea-arbor, pond, and waterfall.

) Fern Grotto and

Orangerie
us s Top
op 10
0
Enter the grotto behind
the Orangerie with its
citrus fruit trees from
around the world. Inside,
there is a 2-story waterfall,
and the walls look like
orchid-and-fern covered
limestone cliffs.

^ Amphitheater Tropical
This delightful grassy * Conservatory
Garden Tour
amphitheater in a quiet Equatorial rainforest Enter from Funston
section of the garden is plants thrive in the humid Street. Pick up a map
used for special events, heat of this greenhouse. in the Carriage House
including the annual Fast-growing breadfruit, and go to Gertie’s
Shakespeare in the Park coffee, and cacao trees Garden. The Rose,
and the Concerts Under compete for light, and Formal, and Old-
the Stars series. Both are the air is filled with the Fashioned Gardens are
held in summer. scent of plumeria flowers ahead. Bear to the right
and cardamom leaves. into Fountain Plaza. On

& Desert Pavilion

A cactus lover’s
the right is the Japanese
Garden, and farther right
delight, this hothouse is the Fragrant Garden.
(right) replicates the To the left is the
desert conditions of Conservatory. In the
southern Africa and courtyard are four
Mexico. The cone cactus, hothouses. To the left,
golden barrel, and fire the path goes past the
barrel cactus grow here, overlook and left to the
with a variety of blooms Texas Native Trail.
appearing year-round.

31
 Brackenridge Park
bicyclists enjoy the trails that run through the 343-acre scenic park, while children
can ride on the miniature Brackenridge Eagle train and families find picnic spots
p 10

near the playground or along the river. Stone bridges, shaded pathways, and
tranquil ponds are highlights of the verdant Japanese Tea Gardens. Nearby, the
San Antonio & Austin’s Top

San Antonio Zoo exhibits more than 3,500 animals from around the world, and the
Witte Museum exhibits Native American, Texan, and natural science treasures.

Top 10 Features
1 San Antonio Zoo
2 Brackenridge Eagle
3 Japanese Tea Garden
4 Sunken Garden Theater
5 Brackenridge Golf Course
6 Playgrounds
7 Kiddie Park
8 Walking Trails & Bird-Watching
9 Witte Museum
0 Texas Pioneers, Trail Drivers
and Rangers Museum
S

! San Antonio Zoo

One of the top zoos in
USA, it is also one of the
most innovative (see pp34–
35). Leading in conservation,
it participates in breeding £ Japanese
Garden
Tea

programs for 60 species. These beautiful gardens

(above)) were built in an
@ Brackenridge Eagle
This miniature railroad
old rock quarry. Limestone
walls with vines, tall
(below) runs for 2.5 miles palms, lush greenery, and
(4 km) through the park. flowers surround pools
Trains are powered by carpeted with lily pads and
propane replicas of the filled with vivid koi fish.
1863 Central Pacific
Huntington steam engines.
$ Sunken
Garden
Theater
Opened in the 1930s
with a performance
of The Bohemian Girll
by the San Antonio
Civic Opera, this old-
time favorite is still
the venue for
summer concerts,
and jazz, dance, and
drama shows.

32
 


Brackenridge Golf
% Course %
!6
This historic golf course

%4
!6 %


%
342
(left) was the original s

9
7!
of the PGA Winter Tou

!$
"2 /
and opened for play in

San Antonio
Sa
1916. The challenging
course requires accu
tee shots on the tre
lined front nine, wh
back nine is open, with ^ PParentsounds s
can choose
tricky wind conditions. from a small playground at

to o & Austin’s
the corner of Mulberry
Avenue, or a bigger one
behind the Witte Museum.

& Kiddie Park

Pure Americana, this
original 1920s-style

ust s Top
amusement park (below)
is a big hit with kids, and
offers rides on a merry-
go-round carved in 1918
that plays calliope music.

op 10
0

George
* Walking Trails and
Bird-Watching ( Witte Museum
San Antonio’s favorite Brackenridge
The best walking trails family museum exhibits Philanthropist and
are found in the main present Texan history, businessman George W.
section of the park, while science, and ecology Brackenridge (1832–
the best birding area is with interactive oppor- 1920) was instrumental
found along Avenue A, tunities. The HEB Science in developing the city’s
where sightings of red- Treehouse and the civic and educational
shouldered hawk, Hertzberg Circus Collec- systems. In 1899, he
herons, and black-crested tion are popular (see p76). gave 199 acres of his
titmouse are common. riverfront estate at the
headwaters of the San
) Texas Pioneers,
Trail Drivers and
Antonio River to the
city, to establish
Rangers Museum Brackenridge Park, and
This memorial (right) he later gave additional
honors the Texas land parcels as well. In
Rangers, the first law 1914, he placed animals
enforcement agency in such as buffalo, elk,
Texas, pioneer families deer, monkeys, a pair of
who settled in Texas, and lions, and four bears in
the cowboys who drove the park, forming the
longhorn cattle north to nucleus of the zoo.
the railroads.

33
 0
op 10

Left Resident jaguar Center A flock of flamingos Right San Antonio Zoo signage

San Antonio Zoo

s Top

! Bears % Cranes of the World

o o & Austin’s

High rock walls form a From a boardwalk along the

rugged, natural backdrop for the river you can see large, beautiful
spacious bear dens and exhibit whooping cranes, blue cranes,
us

areas. The zoo’s star attractions, Manchurian cranes, and hooded

Montana and Flo, the massive cranes. The zoo participates in an
grizzlies, are fed every afternoon. active breeding program to raise
On a really hot summer day you whooping cranes for release into
San Antonio

may see these bears eating five- the wild, and exhibits 10 of the
gallon frozen “fish-sicles.” 15 varieties of cranes found in
the world, 11 of which are

@ Gibbon Forest
Playful and active, the
endangered species.

gibbons swing from the hanging

vines and ropes in their naturally ^ Africa Live!
Equatorial Africa comes alive
Sa

landscaped enclosure. Often in this exciting new exhibit

noisy, males and females chatter where plants and animals are
as they raise their young and viewed in a safari-like setting.
protect their territory. Hippos and Nile crocodiles can
be seen swimming at a

£ Cat Grotto
The grotto is home to cats
fascinating underwater viewing
station, while the Nanyuki
such as jaguars, clouded leopards, Market presents storytellers,
and rare snow leopards, who dancers, and artisans in an
pace or lie in the shade inside Africa-like street market.
their rock-walled enclosures,
maintaining a watchful lookout.
& African Plains
Water trickles down the

$ Amazonia
This lushly planted
natural limestone cliffs and flows
a rocky pool as it does
section along the he African plains. This
waterway is home to ring hole attracts
more than 30 species ous species seeking
of tropical animals and a water in an arid, rocky
profusion of orchids, area planted with
bromeliads, and other shrubs and tough
tropical plants. Here you grasses. Here
can see spider monkeys ostriches, Grevy’s
swinging through the tree zebra, giraffes,
giant anteaters along the Thompson’s gazelle,
banks, and the smallest and the African crowned
New World monkey, the Addax antelope from crane can be seen
pygmy marmoset. the African plains gathering for a drink.

34
* Lory Landing
An Australian rainforest
close-to-native habitats, including
the South American quetzal and
environment in an outdoor aviary the roadrunner from the
is filled with free-flying, nectar- American Southwest.
eating lories whose brilliant

San Antonio
Sa
plumage ranges from emerald
green to fiery orange. At least 40 ) Tiny Tot Nature Spot
This mini-zoo for children
lories perch, play, and even hang under five and their parents
upside-down here. Buy a small provides hands-on activities in
cup of nectar and with very little which kids can discover nature by

o o & Austin’s
coaxing the lories will perch on digging in the dirt, watching lady
your hand to feed. Visitors are bugs, or crawling into tunnels to
welcome between 10am and watch prairie dogs at play.
5pm every day. Activities change daily making
every visit a new adventure.

( Hixon Bird House

us
This circular building has
a central free-flight area
planted with trees and

s Top
shrubs around a small pond.
The exotic residents are

op 10
easy to spot and include the
Shama thrush, red-throated
twin spot, and blue-capped
cordon-bleu. Along the outer
wall, glass-fronted
0
enclosures display birds
from around the world in A close encounter at Tiny Tots Nature Spot

Top 10
Conservation
Conservation Efforts
Conservation and education are cornerstones of the
Projects San Antonio Zoo’s mission, and each year the zoo
1 Whooping Crane participates in efforts around the world to help
Recovery Program preserve animals and their habitats. Projects include
2 Attwater’s Prairie Chicken environment preservation, and breeding programs.
Recovery Program The zoo houses more than 230 threatened and
3 Endangered Texas endangered species, such as the African lion and the
Salamanders black rhinoceros. Some of the threatened species are
4 California Condor Project Texan natives, including the Attwater’s prairie chicken
5 Butterfly Conservation and two varieties of Texan salamanders.
Initiative
6 The Peregrin Fund
7 Grevy’s Zebra Census
Project
8 Tree Kangaroo
Conservation Project
9 International Snow
Leopard Trust
0 Latin America Zoo
Conservation Outreach Visitors at the rhinoceros enclosure

35
 0
op 10

Left Theodore Roosevelt Center Defenders of the Alamo Sarcophagus Right Memorial, Alamo

Moments in History
s Top

! Discovery by Cabeza de
$ Settlement by Canary
o o & Austin’s

Vaca (1535) Islanders (1731)

In 1535, de Vaca and three Fifteen families from the Canary
companions stayed with Native Islands settled here on March 9,
us

Americans while traveling 1731, at the invitation of King

through Texas on their way to Phillip V of Spain. They
Spanish-controlled Mexico. His established the area’s first
written account inspired village, which they named La
San Antonio

Francisco Vásquez de Coronado’s Villa de San Fernando. The church

expedition to the Southwest in of San Fernando (see pp20–21)
1540 in search of the fabled was placed in the exact center of
seven cities of gold. the village. In 1737, the town was
formally named San Antonio.

@ Naming
(1691)
of San Antonio

% Mexican Rule (1821–1835)

Sa

A small expedition of Spanish In 1810, Mexico declared

explorers and missionaries led by independence from Spain,
General Domingo de Teran set up leading to a decade of fighting.
camp along a river near a Spain finally relinquished control
Coahuiltecan Indian village. in 1821. Mexico wanted to settle
Father Damien Massanet what is now known as Texas, and
suggested that they call the in 1821, chose to honor a
place San Antonio as they had Spanish land grant given to
arrived on June 13, the feast Stephen Austin’s father, allowing
day of Saint Anthony. Teran 300 Anglo families to settle
agreed and named the river provided they adhered to
San Antonio as well. Mexican law.

£ Spanish
(1718)
Missions
^ Mexican Constitution
Abolished (1835)
Franciscan friars Antonio In 1835, Santa Anna
Olivares and Isidro Espinosa established a strong central
arrived in 1718 to establish government, curtailed many
the new presidio of San important freedoms and
Antonio de Bexar, and set abolished the Mexican
up Mission San Antonio de Constitution. Texans
Valero, which later became petitioned for independence
known as the Alamo (see and Santa Anna sent
pp10–11). The site was General Cós to disarm the
chosen for the Texans, but Ben Milam and
abundance of water, his volunteers forced Cós
trees, and wildlife Statue of Saint Antonio to surrender and took
found along the river. at the River Walk control of the Alamo.

36
& Texan Revolution (1836)
Santa Anna’s response to
Top 10 Historical
Figures
the defeat was immediate: he
launched a massive attack on the
Alamo. Meanwhile the governing
! Alvar Núñez Cabeza
de Vaca (1490–1560)

San Antonio
Sa
The first European to explore
council voted on March 2, what is now Texas and the
declaring Texas a republic. Just Southwest.
six weeks later at San Jacinto,
Sam Houston and his volunteer
army captured Santa Anna and
@ Stephen F. Austin
(1793–1836)
Responsible for bringing more

o o & Austin’s
achieved a resounding victory. than 5,600 Anglo settlers into
Texas from 1821 to 1831.

* Trail Drive Era (1867–1875)

After the American Civil War,
£ Antonio López de
Santa Anna
Texan longhorn cattle roamed
(1794–1876)
free across south Texas, having

us
Tough military leader and five-
been brought to the area by the time president of Mexico.
Spanish missionaries. A longhorn
worth $2 in Texas was worth $20
$ Ben Milam
(1788–1835)

s Top
in the north, and so the era of
Led Texas volunteers in
trail drives north along the combat against Cós.

op 10
Chisholm Trail to the railroads
began. San Antonio became a
lively cattle town. The era ended % General Martin
Perfecto de Cós
(1800–1854)
when barbed wire was introduced
in 1875 and the range was fenced.
Mexican army general and 0
Santa Anna’s brother-in-law.

( Railroad Arrives (1877)

The arrival of the Galveston, ^ General Sam
Houston (1793–1863)
Tennessee governor and
Harrisburg, and San Antonio
president of the short-lived
Railroad brought a sustained Republic of Texas.
economic boom. The population
increased 70 percent between
1870 and 1890, reaching 20,000. & José Antonio Navarro
(1795–1871)
An influx of Anglo-Americans Served as senator in the Texas
legislature under Mexico, the
from the southern states altered Republic of Texas, and the US.
the existing German and Hispanic
culture, and led to new archite-
ctural styles as the city grew. * Jesse Chrisholm
(1806–1868)
Indian trader from Tennessee
who blazed a trail from
) HemisFair International
Exposition (1968)
Wichita, Kansas, into Texas.

In preparation for the 6.3 million

visitors who would attend its ( Theodore Roosevelt
(1858–1919)
world fair, the city spent over The 26th US president
recruited his volunteer cavalry
$156 million. The River Walk was of Rough Riders (see p38) at
extended to include the new the Menger Bar in 1898.
convention center, arena, and
fairgrounds. Two high-rise hotels
were built along the River Walk,
) Robert H. H. Hugman
(1902–1980)
Visionary architect who
and many new restaurants and planned the River Walk.
businesses were established.
 0
op 10

Left Mission San José Center Spanish Governor’s Palace Right Chapel façade, the Alamo

Historic Sites
s Top

! San
The Alamo
$ San Fernando Cathedral
o o & Austin’s

Antonio’s first mission is In February 1836, Mexican

best known for the 1836 Texas General Santa Anna raised a red
Revolution Battle. Established in flag from the top of this church to
us

1718 midway between the signal “no quarter, no surrender,

Spanish capital in Santa Fe, New and no mercy,” to the defenders
Mexico, and the missions of east of the Alamo. A sarcophagus
Texas, by the 1830s it had here is believed to hold the
San Antonio

become a Mexican military post remains of the defenders of the

(see pp10–13). Alamo (see pp20–21).

@ Menger Hotel
The oldest operating hotel % Military Plaza
Until 1865, the Plaza de
in the city built by German Armas was used as a parade
immigrant William Menger, is ground, and for public executions
Sa

noteworthy for its magnificent and vigilante lynchings. It became

Victorian lobby with antique a popular outdoor market after
furnishings and paintings. the Civil War, and in the evening
Theodore Roosevelt (see p37) young women, Chili Queens,
stayed here in 1898, while he cooked and served chili con carne
recruited Rough Riders to fight to the townspeople. d Map L4
in Cuba during the Spanish- • Bounded by Commerce St, Flores,
American War (see p115). Dolorosa, Spanish Governor’s Palace

# Spanish
Palace
Governor’s
^ Main Plaza
The first settlers, the Canary
Built before 1750, the palace was Islanders, set up homes around
the presidio captain’s home La Plaza de Las Islas (The
and headquarters. Square of the Islands).
From 1772 to 1782 it A fiesta was held
was the seat of Texas here to celebrate
government for the the crowning of
Spanish Province. King Ferdinand VI,
This expertly resto- and in 1845,
red building, now a Governor Sam
museum, displays Houston delivered
antique furnishings. his speech for union
d Map L4 • 105 Plaza with the United
de Armas • 210-224- States. d Map M4
0601• Open 9am–5pm • Bounded by
Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Commerce St,
Sun • www. Soledad, Houston,
sanantonio.gov/sapar Retablo at San Fernando Cathedral Main Ave

38 Costumed
C d actors present
p performances
p f at the
h Governor’s
Governor
G ’s P
Palace
l
on the
th last
l t Sunday
S d off theth month
month.
th
& St. Joseph’s
Downtown Church
Founded by German
Catholic immigrants, the
cornerstone of this church

San Antonio
Sa
was laid in 1868. In 1891,
four bells with matching
tones were donated, a
church spire was added in
1898, and stained-glass

o o & Austin’s
windows from Munich
installed in 1902. Today, the
church is surrounded on The altar, St. Joseph’s Downtown Church
three sides by the busy
Rivercenter Mall. d Map N44 • 623 Enchanted Kiss. Displayed inside
East Commerce St • 210-227-0126 the recently restored building

us
• Mass: 8am; 9:30am (weekly service in are period furnishings, articles,
Spanish on 2nd Sunday of month), 11am photographs, and works by
(weekly service in German and Latin on the author. d Map L44 • Dolorosa

s Top
4th Sunday of month), 12:30pm Sun; at Laredo
noon Mon–Fri; noon, 6:15 pm Sat

op 10
* The largest and most
Mission San José ) Historic
Casa Navarro State
Site
This restored residence was
beautiful of San Antonio’s
Missions, San José was well-run
the home of José Antonio
Navarro (see p37), signer of
0
and successful, earning it the the 1836 Texas Declaration of
title of the “Queen of Missions”. Independence. The house, and
Its walls prevented attacks from his law office, all have period
marauding Native Americans in furnishings. A small museum
the 1700s. Texas’ oldest flour traces his accomplishments as a
mill was built here around 1790. lawyer, rancher, politician, and
The mill still stands outside the author. In the early 1840s he was
north wall and grinds wheat captured and imprisoned in
using the original methods (see Mexico. He escaped to Cuba in
pp14–17). 1845 and returned home in time
to vote for the annexation of

( O.Renowned
Henry House
author William
Texas to the United States.
d Map L4 • 228 S Laredo St • 210-226-
Sydney Porter (1862–1910) used 4801 • Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun
the pen-name O. Henry. Best • www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/jose
known for the ironic
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39
 0
op 10

Left The McNay Art Museum Center San Antonio Museum of Art Right Institute of Texan Cultures

Museums
s Top

! The McNay Art Museum

$ Museo Americano
o o & Austin’s

This spectacular Spanish Smithsonian

Colonial Revival-style mansion This vividly hued building in
houses a permanent collection colors of lime and rose tells the
us

of 16,000 works from the story of the Latino experience

19th and 20th centuries. in America through photo-
Well-known European graphy, music, art, and
artists such as biographical profiles of
San Antonio

Rodin, Renoir, famous people such as

Cézanne, Picasso, Nobel Laureate Mario
Gauguin, Van Gogh, Molina. This national
and Klee, as well as center for Latino arts
American masters displays Smithsonian
Homer, Whistler, exhibits. d Map K4
O’Keeffe, Weber, • 101 S Santa Rosa Blvd
Sa

and Hopper, are featured Rodin sculpture at • 210-458-2300 • www.

here (see pp18–19). McNay Art Museum thealameda.org

@ San Antonio Museum

of Art % Buckhorn
Museum
Saloon and

One of the most impressive art The Buckhorn started as a saloon

museums in Texas, housed in the in 1881, with a standing offer to
historic Lone Star Brewery, is exchange a shot of beer or
best known for the Nelson A. whiskey for animal antlers.
Rockefeller Center for Latin During Prohibition, it became a
American Art, with a collection museum, and now displays an
that includes 4,000 years of pre- amazing collection of horns and
Columbian, Spanish Colonial, and stuffed animals. You can still have
modern art (see p70). a beer or soda at the original bar.
d Map N3 • 318 E Houston St • 210-247-

£ Built as the Texas

Institute of Texan Cultures 4000 • www.buckhornmuseum.com

pavilion for the 1968 Hemis-

Fair (see p37), this museum
pays tribute to the 26
cultural groups that settled
in Texas. Docents, who
describe life on the range,
can be found at the chuck
wagon and at the 1914 post
office. d Map P6 • 801 S. Bowie
St • 210-458-2300 • Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun Restaurant at Buckhorn Saloon and Museum

40
^ Witte Museum
This exceptional family
museum specializes in history,
science, and culture with
outstanding permanent and

San Antonio
Sa
changing displays. The captivating
Walk Across Texas exhibit
provides a look at the animals and
plants that thrive in the many National Museum of the Pacific War exhibit
terrains and eco-climates of the

o o & Austin’s
state. The noted HEB Science
Treehouse is an outstanding ( National Museum of the
Pacific War
children’s museum with many This is the nation’s only museum
interactive exhibits (see p76). dedicated to the Pacific Theater
of World War II and home town

& Fort Sam Houston hero Fleet Admiral Chester

us
The outstanding US Army Nimitz, commander of the Allied
Medical Department Museum forces in Central Pacific (see p81).
traces the history of military

) USS

s Top
medicine from 1775 to the Lexington
present, with exhibits featuring This floating museum, the

op 10
medical instruments, uniforms, 16-deck World War II aircraft
and transport vehicles such as a carrier USS Lexington, offers four
horse-drawn ambulance, and a self-guiding tours of the ship that
railroad hospital car. The small Fort
Sam Houston Museum chronicles
pass through the vessel’s 100,000
sq ft (9,290 sq m) and 11 decks.
0
the history of the US Army in San Visitors can explore the stairways
Antonio from 1845, when the and passageways used by crew-
post occupied the Alamo, until the men to access the main flight
present. Exhibits feature army deck, hangar deck, and other
equipment, Rough Riders, and sections of the 910 ft (277 m)
military aviation (see p75). carrier. d Map U4 • 2914 North
Shoreline Blvd, Corpus Christi • 361-888-

* The rich cultural heritage of

Museum of Western Art 4873 • Open 9am–5pm daily, until 6pm in
summer • Adm • www.usslexington.com
the American West is show-
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 0
op 10

Left Alamodome Center Spanish Governor’s Palace Right Mission San José
s Top

Architectural Highlights
o o & Austin’s

! Tower Life Building

Designed by San Antonio £ San Fernando Cathedral
Construction of the oldest
native Robert Moss Ayres and cathedral in the US began in 1731
us

completed in 1929, this 41-story when the cornerstone of the first

Neo-Gothic building still parish church in Texas was laid by
dominates the skyline. The the Canary Islanders. The exact
unusual octagonal shaped brick geographical center of San
San Antonio

office has carved gargoyles on the Antonio was located beneath the
upper setbacks to protect the dome. The original walls remain
building, and an elaborate marble- forming a sanctuary around the
walled lobby. It was San Antonio’s altar. Much of the original church
tallest building until 1968, and the was replaced by a grand French
tallest office building until 1989. Gothic addition in 1874, when
Sa

d Map M4 • 310 S St. Mary’s St Pope Pius IX raised San Antonio

to a diocese ((see pp20–21).

$ Ramada Emily Morgan

Designed by architect Ralph
Cameron, the Gothic Revival
detailing of the 1926 Medical Arts
Building, now the Ramada Emily
Morgan hotel, is unusual in Texas.
Seeming taller than its 13 stories,
this imposing building has a
distinctive sculpted façade. The
terra-cotta gargoyles feature many
ailments, including toothache,
which would have been treated
here (see p115).
The glittering Tower Life Building at night

@ Spanish Governor’s % Majestic Theatre

The Majestic was the second
Palace largest theater in the nation when
Built in the Spanish Colonial style, it opened in 1929. Designed and
this masonry building has a key- built by John Eberson, it was
stone above the entrance with considered the most modern
1749 as the date of construction building in Texas at the time. Its
and the Hapsburg coat of arms. elaborate Spanish Mission,
Apart from the San Fernando Baroque, and Mediterranean
Cathedral, this is the last major architectural styles blend into an
building from the Spanish period interior world of fantasy. Closed
still standing in the center of San in 1974, the restored theater
Antonio (see p38). reopened in 1989 (see p50).

42
^ Tower of the Americas
This striking tower rising
750 ft (229 m) to the antenna tip,
was built for the 1968 HemisFair
(see p37). Architect O’Neil Ford

San Antonio
Sa
placed the center of gravity
underground, using a base of
2,400 tons of concrete. The top
portion, including the restaurant
and observation deck, was built

o o & Austin’s
on the ground and then raised as Greenhouse, San Antonio Botanical Garden
the tower was constructed.
d Map P5 • 600 HemisFair Park • 210-
207-8615 • Open 9am–10pm Sun–Thu, ( San Antonio Botanical
Garden & Lucile Halsell
9am–11pm Fri–Sat • Adm Conservatory
Designed by architect Emilo

us
& This huge, oval-shaped
Alamodome Ambasz, the seven cylindrical
pyramid-shaped greenhouses of
enclosed sports and the conservatory tower over a pond

s Top
entertainment arena uses four ringed by flowers and trees. They
towers and a steel cable support run 16 ft (5 m) underground to

op 10
system to keep the 175-ft (53- utilize the earth’s cooling effect in
m) high dome aloft. Designed by hot Texan summers (see pp30–31).
Marmon Mok, this facility can
seat up to 72,000 for various
events, including concerts, ) San Antonio Central
Library
0
sporting events, trade-shows, Created by architect Ricardo
and conventions. The venue has Legorretta, this striking red library
two Olympic-size ice rinks for opened in 1995. It is modernist in
hockey, figure skating, and design, with a six-story atrium,
speed skating. d Map Q6 • 100 angular layout, and outdoor
Montana St • 210-207-3663 plazas. d Map M2 • 600 Soledad
• 210-207-2500 • Open 11am–5pm Sun,

* Known as the “Queen of

Mission San José 9am–9pm Mon–Thu, 9am–5pm Fri & Sat
• www.sanantonio.gov/library
Missions,” Mission San
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 0
op 10

Left Padre Island National Seashore Center HemisFair Park Right Natural Bridge Wildlife Ranch

Parks, Gardens, and Natural

s Top

Wonders
o o & Austin’s

! Natural
Caverns
Bridge as stone lanterns and
water features. Trails
us

One of Texas’ largest through the large

caves is named for the Texan native plant
60-ft (18-m) natural area ramble across
bridge near its original Wildlife Ranch logo fields of wildflowers
San Antonio

entrance. Guided tours from the Hill Country

lead through massive limestone up to a lake in the Pineywoods
formations. d Map J1 • 26495 Natural section and on to Southwest
Bridge Caverns Rd • 210-651-6101 • Open Texas (see pp30–31).
year-round 9am–4pm, 9am–7pm Memorial
Day to Labor Day • www.
naturalbridgecaverns.com $ Friedrich Wilderness Park
This is a great place to hike
Sa

and experience the untouched

@ An oasis of broad walkways

HemisFair Park beauty of the Hill Country. This
600-acre nature preserve, just
curving through a tree-shaded northwest of San Antonio, is a
landscape, the park is dotted with pristine natural area of 5 miles
sculpture. Water gardens surround (8 km) of beautiful trails. Creeks,
the Tower of the Americas (see springs, hilltops, and wooded
p43), and the Schultz House canyons maintain a large
Cottage Garden is filled with population of fascinating native
plants and butterflies (see p69). birds and animals. d Map E2
• 21395 Milsa St • 210-698-1057 • Open

£ San Antonio Botanical

Garden
Apr–Sep 8am–8pm, Mar–Oct 8am–5pm
• www.fofriedrichpark.org
An oasis of beauty and color,
these vast flower-filled gardens
have roses in hues of pink and % Natural
Ranch
Bridge Wildlife

cream, and the Japanese garden This Texas-style African wildlife

safari is a drive-through park
where visitors can get close to
about 50 species of animals. The
park houses many endangered
species, such as white rhinos,
reticulated giraffes, jaguars, and
dama gazelles. d Map J1 • 26515
Natural Bridge Caverns Rd • 830-438-7400
• Open 9am–5pm daily, 9am–6:30pm
Memorial Day to Labor Day • www.
Wildflowers in the Botanical Garden wildliferanchtexas.com

46 Previous
P i pages: Wild
Wildseed
d FFarms,
Farms FFredericksburg
d i k b
^ Padre Island National
Seashore
This stunning barrier island
shore of windswept dunes,
wild grasslands, marshes

San Antonio
Sa
teeming with wildlife, and
white-sand beaches is the Rock formations, Cascade Caverns
longest expanse of natural,
undeveloped beach in the US.
Stretching more than 65 miles ( Enchanted Rock State
Natural Area

o o & Austin’s
(104 km) along the coast, it has The highlight of this popular hiking,
many recreation activities such as camping, and rock-climbing park is
swimming, sunbathing, fishing, a gigantic mound of pink granite
and shell-collecting. d Map C5 rock more than a square mile in
• Corpus Christi • 361-949-8068 • Visitor’s area and rising 425 ft (130 m)
Center; open summer 8:30–6pm, above the stream at its base.

us
rest of the year 9am–4:30pm The one-hour trail to the top offers
splendid views across the Hill

& Cascade Caverns Country (see p82).

s Top
This fascinating cave is
named for the spectacular
) Cave Without a Name

op 10
100-ft (31-m) cascading waterfall The winning entry in a
nearby. Open since 1932, the cave contest to name this cave before
has offered shelter to many it opened to the public in 1939
species through its history,
including a mastodon whose
was “... too pretty to have a
name.” Hour-long guided tours
0
bones can still be seen here. The take keen visitors to see huge
water-formed cavern is a half-mile clusters of stalactites and
long and 140 ft (43 m) deep and stalagmites, fragile soda straws,
has rock formations with and sparkling flowstone. The grand
interesting names such as Skull, finale is a subterranean river
Dinosaur, and Giant Turtle. d Map flowing over attractive limestone
A2 • 226 Cascade Caverns Rd, Boerne, formations. d Map A2 • 830-537-4212
I-10 exit 543 • 830-755-8080 • Open • Open 10am–5pm daily • Adm
10am–4pm daily • Adm • www.cavewithoutaname.com

FS

* Aransas
Refuge
National Wildlife -MBOP
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Elegant whooping cranes, one of

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America, winter in this preserve
founded in 1937 by Franklin D.
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other endangered species, such as
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30 miles north of Rockport • 361-286-3559  

• Open from sunrise to sunset daily 

 LN 

It is advisable to wear comfortable shoes with good

g traction while 47
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th path
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slippery
li
 0
op 10

Left Rivercenter Mall Center Shops at El Mercado Right Naegelin’s Bakery, New Braunfels

Shopping Areas
s Top

! Market Square tists at Village Weavers,

o o & Austin’s

El Mercado, the largest and watch glass figures

Mexican marketplace north being made at the
of the border, offers goods Glassblower. d Map N4
us

typically found in the • Village Weavers: 210-222-077

bigger Mexican border • Glassblower: 210-226-3452
towns. The vivid merch-
andise ranges from tradi-
$ Artisans Alley
San Antonio

tional toys and clothing, to Meandering

authentic crafts, such as boardwalks and
ornate leather goods and courtyards connect the
dazzling jewelry (see p70) charming boutique shops
ere. The English Ivy

@ Rivercenter Mall
Visitors may find
rries home and garden
Mexican mask decor, and you can pamper
Sa

everything they need in the yourself with luxurious

125 popular stores here. Dillard’s robes at Homebodies. d Map F2
and Foley’s are the big department • English Ivy: 210-545-5335
stores, and the Dallas Cowboys • Homebodies: 210-491-0105
ProShop carries branded shirts
and souvenirs. d Map N4 • Dillard’s:
210-227-4343 • Foley’s: 210-554-6806 %Fredericksburg
Main Street, and the nearby
• Dallas Cowboys ProShop: 210-223-8200 side streets, are a shopper’s
mecca. The amazing variety

£ La Villita
This charming area near the
includes art galleries, antique
shops, home furnishing stores,
River Walk is filled with art and shops selling local crafts. For
galleries, craft shops, and authentic contemporary cowboy
restaurants housed in pretty clothes visit Texas Jack’s; sample
historic buildings in a village hand-made delicacies at Chocolat.
setting. Buy goods such as hand- d Texas Jack’s: Map A1; 830-997-5855
woven tapestries from working • Chocolat: Map A1; 830-990-9382

Left Village Gallery, Chamade Jewelers, La Villita Right Shopping on Main St, Fredericksburg

48 M t shops
Most h open att 10am
10 and
d close
l att 9pm
9 Mon–Fri
Mon–Fri.
M
Mon F
Fri.i Hours
H vary
on weekends
weekends.
^ New Braunfels
Sometimes referred to as
the Antique Capital of Texas, this
charming town offers great
shops in historic buildings. The

San Antonio
Sa
Frilly Frog stocks clothing and
gifts for kids, while Red Rooster Huge cowboy boots, North Star Mall
Antiques offers a range of new
and old items. Naegelin’s (see delight, with 100 brand-name
p63), the longest operating stores, including Banana

o o & Austin’s
bakery in Texas, has excellent Republic Factory. Prime Outlets
kolaches and strudel. d Frilly Frog: has 140 stores, with Calvin Klein
Map B2; 322 W San Antonio St; 830- and Hugo Boss factory outlets.
249-9244 • Red Rooster Antiques: Map d Tanger Outlets: Map B2; I-35, Exit 200
B2; 386 W San Antonio St; 830-609-3311 at Centerpoint Rd; 512-396-7446; open
9am–9pm Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm Sun

us
& Boerne
This Hill Country town is full
• Prime Outlets: Map B2; I-35, Exit 200 at
Centerpoint Rd; 512-396-2200; open
of Southern charm and cute 10 am–9pm Mon–Sat

s Top
shops. The Alte Stadt Mall offers
antiques and crafts, including
) Flea Markets

op 10
furniture, silver jewelry, and The Flea Mart is a weekend
unique birdhouses. For animal family affair, offering live music,
collectibles, check out the home-made food, clothing,
menagerie at It’s a Jungle In
Here. d Alte Stadt Mall: Map A2; 265 S
produce, and crafts. Eisenhauer
Road Flea Market is the largest
0
Main; 830-249-8192 • It’s A Jungle In indoor market, with furniture,
Here: Map A2; 133 S Main; 830-249-9244 jewelry, antiques, and much
more. Bussey’s (see p78) offers

* Shopping Malls
The most upscale shopping
weekend shopping for almost
anything imaginable. d Flea Mart:
malls are located near Loop 410, Map A2; 12280 Hwy 16 South, 210-624-
to the north and northwest of 2666; open Sat & Sun • Eisenhauer
downtown. Shops at La Cantera Road Flea Market: Map H4; 3903
offer sophisticated shopping in Eisenhauer Road; 210-653-7592;
landscaped surroundings. A large open Wed–Sun
selection of stores
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49
 0
op 10

Left Arneson River Theatre Center Performance, Arneson River Theatre Right Municipal Auditorium

Performing Arts Venues

s Top

! Arneson River Theatre Charlie Chaplin. It re-opened in

o o & Austin’s

This charming open-air 1998 to former glory. d Map M3

theater is located in La Villita. The • 226 N St. Mary's St • 210-226-5700
San Antonio River and the River • www.majesticempire.com
us

Walk pass through the theater,

separating the stage from the
casual seating for 1,000 viewers $Guadalupe
Arts Center
Cultural

on the opposite bank (see p8). The Guadalupe Theater offers

San Antonio

exciting performances, including

@Carver Community
Cultural Center
plays by Grupo Animo. The center
sponsors Latino cultural events
This cultural venue offers a and performances by visiting and
stellar line-up of international local directors. It also hosts the
performers. Since 1929, the annual San Antonio Cine Festival
center has hosted stars such as and the Tejano Conjunto Festival.
Sa

Ella Fitzgerald and Dizzy Gillespie. d Map F4 • 1300 Guadalupe • 210-271-

Recent artists include the Soweto 3151 • www.guadalupe.org
Gospel Choir from South Africa
and premiere jazz vocalist, Diane
Schuur. d Map G5 • 215 N Hackberry %Lila Cockrell Theatre
Part of the Henry B. Gonzalez
• 210-207-7211 • www.thecarver.org Convention Center Complex, this
expansive theater seats 2,500

£Charline McCombs
Empire Theatre
people on three levels with clear
views of the huge stage used for
Since 1914 the Empire has hosted ballet, symphony, and drama
live events, including Gene Autry events. The theater is comfortable
and Roy Rogers, and silent with plush seats and wide spaces
movies starring Lon Chaney and between the rows. d Map N4 • 200
E Market St • 210-207-8500

^Majestic Theatre
One of the most
ornate theaters in the US,
the Majestic is a fantasy
village of towers, stained-
glass windows, and a star-
lit night sky. Renovated in
1989, it is now home to
the San Antonio Symphony
and traveling Broadway
shows. d Map M3 • 226 E
Houston St • 210-226-3333
Arneson River Theatre • www.majesticempire.com

50
 Top 10 Movies in
San Antonio
! The Alamo, 1959, 2004
Both were filmed in Texas,
but not at the Alamo. John

San Antonio
Sa
Wayne’s 1959 version was
much more popular.
San Pedro Playhouse
@ Miss
2000
Congeniality,

& McAllister Auditorium

A beauty pageant in front of

o o & Austin’s
This large, multi-level, the Alamo with contestant,
auditorium-style venue, which FBI Agent Sandra Bullock.
seats 1,000, is located on the
San Antonio College campus and
presents community and college
£ All
1999
The Pretty Horses,

Cowboy Matt Damon woos

theatrical performances. It also

us
Penelope Cruz at the Scottish
holds an annual fall event. d Map G4 Rite Cathedral.
• 1300 San Pedro • 210-733-2000
$ The
1997
Newton Boys,

s Top
Municipal Auditorium
Bank robbers Ethan Hawke,
Built in 1926 as a memorial to Charles Gunning, and Matthew

op 10
World War I veterans, this large McConaughey make their
historic building was renovated in getaway in a car parked by the
the 1980s. The Lyric Opera of San St. Anthony Hotel on E. Travis.
Antonio offers a full season of 0
comedy and famous operas, % Pee Wee’s Big
Adventure, 1985
performed by well-known singers. Paul Reubens as Pee Wee
d Map N3 • 100 Auditorium Circle • 210 Herman heads to San Antonio
207-8500 • www.sanantonio.gov to find his bicycle.

(San Pedro Playhouse ^ Cloak

1983
and Dagger,
The award-winning playhouse Eleven-year-old Henry Thomas
has been entertaining San Antonio of ET fame finds himself
since 1930. It is the longest pursued along the River Walk.
running community theater in the
US. Recent productions have & The Big Brawl, 1980
Jackie Chan shows off his
included Damm Yankeess and martial arts on stage at the
Cabaret. Parking is free, and Sunken Garden Theater.
tickets are affordable. d Map G4
• 800 West Ashby Pl, San Pedro Park at
Ashby • 210-733-7258
* Sugarland
1973
Express,

Steven Speilberg’s first

feature film gave San Antonio

)Verizon Wireless
Amphitheater
a minor role.

San Antonio’s major new concert

amphitheater attracts top-billed
( The Getaway, 1972
Steve McQueen drifts
down the San Antonio River
music acts. There are over 8,000 in this heist film.
reserved seats under an open
pavilion-style roof, with another
12,000 on the grass slope.
) Wings, 1927
Filmed at Camp Stanley
and Kelly Field, it won the first
d Map J2 • 16765 Lookout Rd, Selma Oscar for best picture.
• 210-657-8300 • www.vwatx.com

51
 0
op 10

Left Feeding dolphins at SeaWorld Right Wildebeest at Natural Bridge Wildlife Ranch

Children’s Attractions
s Top

! SeaWorld San Antonio Children slide through the slow

o o & Austin’s

Enraptured kids feed dolphins, curves of the Cliffhanger Tube

seals, and lories, and press their Chute and shriek with delight as
faces against the glass tanks to they experience the thrilling final
us

watch whales and dolphins. There drop (see p82).

is also a huge playground with
child-sized rides at Shamu’s Happy
Harbor, the Banana Cabana $ Natural Bridge Caverns
Children love the whimsical
San Antonio

Theater, and a shallow lagoon to cavern names, including the 350-ft

splash in (see pp26–27). (108-m) long Hall Of The Mountain
King and the stalagmite-filled Sher-
wood Forest. Parents appreciate
the wide, well-lit walkways on this
tour. Above ground, they pan for
bits of opal, amethyst, and other
Sa

gems in the sluiceways of the

Natural Bridge Mining Company,
and for a fee get to keep the
stones they find (see p46).

Believe!! show at SeaWorld % Natural

Ranch
Bridge Wildlife

Feed animals, including ostriches,

@ Kids love meeting costumed

Six Flags Fiesta Texas zebras, and llamas through the car
windows and see many animals
Bugs Bunny and Looney Tunes up-close. Come early in the day
characters, and watching them when there are fewer visitors and
perform. But even better is getting the animals will stay longer at your
wet at Splashwater Springs! car, as they quickly move on to the
which has shallow lagoons, palm newest car that comes along.
trees that squirt water, and small There is also a petting zoo with
water slides that look like whales, small animals (see p46).
frogs, and turtles (see pp76–77).

£ Schlitterbahn Water Park

Exploring Hansel & Gretel’s
Great Forest, kids find a water
playground version of the classic
German tale with a gingerbread
house and trees with mini-slides
for toddlers. America’s favorite
summer waterpark offers six
water play areas for young kids. Panning for gems, Natural Bridge Caverns

52 Mostt off S
M San A
Antonio
Antonio’s
t i ’s daytime
d ti attractions
tt ti are suitable
it bl ffor children.
children
hild
^ Quadrangle
Houston
at Fort Sam

This giant petting zoo and park is

a favorite place for families to
relax beneath the famous clock

San Antonio
Sa
tower at the US Army’s Fort Sam Merry-go-round ride, Kiddie Park
Houston. Kids play joyfully in this
park-like expanse inside the adaptations are performed. d Map
stone-walled fortress, and so do N5 • 420 S Alamo at Beethoven Hall in
the deer, ducks, rabbits, and HemisFair Park • 210-227-2751 • www.

o o & Austin’s
other small animals that roam magiktheatre.org
freely (see p75).

& Experiment with hand-

Witte Museum ( Kiddie Park
Young children laugh with
ght on these 1920s-style
cranked gates and water- original amusement park

us
wheels to learn how to rides. The musical calliope
control the flow of water in trills as the 1918 antique
a river, or climb into the HEB merry-go-round spins, and

s Top
Science Treehouse to learn he Little Dipper rollercoaster
about science firsthand. oars up and down the track.

op 10
There is a separate nook for otton candy, popcorn, and hot
the youngest children to play ogs are aplenty (see p33).
at their own level. Inside the
museum are early Texan
dinosaur, Egyptian Mummy, ) San Antonio Zoo
Kids are delighted as they
0
and other exhibits (see p76). ncover earthworms, brush a
goat, or dig up carrots to feed

* Magik Children’s
Theatre
to a guinea pig. Kronkosky’s
Father and Childd sculpture Tiny Tot Nature Spot is
This outstanding at Witte Museum designed to educate and
repertory theater group entertain children under
produces performances five. Older children love the nearby
especially for children and play area where they can run,
families, with 7 to 10 shows climb, and explore nature up-close
each year. Original plays as well as (see pp32–35).

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53
 0
op 10

Left Sausage platter, typical of German food Center Tacos Right Chili con carne

Texas Style Cuisine

s Top

! Tex-Mex be removed before eating, are

o o & Austin’s

Extremely popular, the wrapped around the outside,

cultural blending of southern forming the tamale which is
Texan and northern Mexican then steamed.
us

foods is known as Tex-Mex.

Tex-Mex dishes are mildly
spiced and usually contain a $ Chili
San Antonio claims to be
combination of meat and the inventor of the state dish
San Antonio

cheddar or Monterrey Jack of Texas. Chili was once sold

cheese. The Mexican version, Chipotle in Military Plaza by the
on the other hand, often sauce legendary Chili Queens (see
features goat cheese. p38). Traditionally, chili is a
spicy stew with equal amounts

@ Taco
A Tex-Mex sandwich, tacos
of beef and peppers, and is
known locally as a “Bowl of
Sa

are served both as a snack Red”. It is sometimes called

and as a main dish. Usually chili con carne, meaning chili
made with fried or soft corn with meat. Traditional chili has
tortillas folded over, tacos no beans.
contain a beef or chicken filling.
Additions may include shred-
ded lettuce, pico de gallo (hot %
Enchilada
Corn or flour tortillas are
salsa), cheese, sour cream, and wrapped around a filling of
sometimes guacamole. beef, chicken, cheese, or
shrimp, and are served hot,

# Tamale
Especially popular during
smothered with a spicy-hot
chili or mild gravy sauce.
Christmas and New Year, tama- Enchiladas are often served
les are made from a moist corn with sour cream or guacamole.
dough called masa wrapped When ordered as a platter,
around a seasoned filling, which they are usually accompanied
is usually shredded pork. by beans and rice.
Washed corn husks, that need to

^ Fajita
Fajitas are traditionally made
with beef skirt steak, a very
flavorsome cut of beef. Grilled
strips of steak are generally
served sizzling hot on a metal
platter with flour tortillas, grilled
onions and peppers, and
condiments such as pico de
Enchiladas gallo, sour cream, and cheese.

54 N
New Southwestern
S th t cooking
ki combines
bi traditional
t diti l Texan
T dishes
di h withith
wild game
g
game,, wine
wine,, or fresh fruit and vegetables
g to create new tastes
tastes.
 Top 10 Texan
Restaurants
! Mi Tierra Café &
Bakery
Great Tex-Mex food and bakery.

San Antonio
Sa
d Map K4 • 218 Produce Row
Barbeque • 210-225-1262 • $$

& Steaks
The top choice of steak in
@ Panchito’s
Known for its big breakfast
tacos. d Map G4 • 4118

o o & Austin’s
San Antonio is the Texan sirloin. McCullough • 210-821-5338 • $
An aged steak cooked with salt
and pepper and other seasonings
is a favourite. Chicken-fried steak
£ Casa Rio
Order the excellent Regular
is also popular. Plate. d Map N4 • 430 Com-
merce St • 210-225-6718 • $$

us
* Barbeque
Often spelled Bar-B-Que, or $ Aldaco’s
Great for authentic Mexican
just B-B-Q, a good barbeque cuisine and Tex-Mex food.
d Map Q5 • 100 Hoefgen St

s Top
place will have stacks of oak,
• 210-222-0561 • $$
hickory, or mesquite wood to

op 10
smoke-cook the meat. Sliced
beef brisket is the traditional B- % Bill Miller Bar-B-Q
Popular barbeque brisket
B-Q fare, but sausage, pork-ribs, and chicken. d Map L5 • 430 S
Santa Rosa • 210-302-1510 • $
and chicken are also available. 0
^ Rudy’s Country Store
( The German influence is
German Food and Bar-B-Q
Meats are rubbed with spices
evident in the cuisine in San and slow-cooked over oak.
Antonio. Sausage, sauerkraut, d Map D4 • 10623 Westover
Hills Blvd • 210-520-5552 • $
and potato salad are favorites.
Sausage, or wurst, is as popular
as Tex-Mex food at any local & Texas Land & Cattle
Steakhouse
festival. New Braunfels holds an Known for its pepper-smoked
annual Wurstfest (see p65). steak. d Map M4 • 201 N St.
Mary’s St • 210-222-2263 • $$$$

) Beer and Wine

Breweries were established in * Bohanan’s
Some of the best steaks
San Antonio in the mid- and seafood in San Antonio.
1800s by German d Map M3 • 219 E Houston St
#275 • 210-472-2600 • $$$$$
immigrants. Shiner Beer,
a local favorite, is still
brewed at the Spoetzl ( Little Rhein
Steakhouse
Brewery in nearby Elegant dining on terraces
Shiner. Several former overlooking the river. d Map
N4 • 231 S. Alamo • 210-225-
Texan Hill Country 2111 • $$$$$
ranches grow French and
German grape varieties,
producing fine wines
) Schilo’s
This exceptional deli serves
with labels such as Fall hearty German food. d Map N4
• 424 E Commerce St • 210-223-
Creek and Slaughter- 5338 • $$
Leftwich Vineyards. Texan wine

FFor a key
k y to price
p i categories
categories,
g i see p73,
p
p73
73 79,
79 85,
85 95, 101..
95 101 55
 0
op 10

Zuni Grill

Restaurants
s Top

! Las Canarias
$ Acenar
o o & Austin’s

Restaurant Trendy Acenar adds a

Tall palm trees, soft music, Southwest-style zest to Tex-
and three dining levels that Mex dishes with creatively
us

tier down to the river make named entrées such as

Las Canarias one of the most enchiladas de molee or tinga
romantic restaurants on the duck chalupas. The decor is
River Walk. d Map M4 • 112 ultra-modern and the colors
San Antonio

College St • 210-518-1063 bright. d Map M3 • 146 E Houston

• www.lamansion.com • $$$ at S St. Mary’s • 210-222-2362
Azúca sign • Open Mon–Sat • $$$$$

@ LeThisRêve
award-winning restaurant
% Azúca
serves modern French cuisine This restaurant is exuberant
prepared with the best seasonal and passionate. The Nuevo
Sa

foods from around the world. Latino cuisine uses Latin

Dinner is served at a leisurely American ingredients to create
pace, as all meals are freshly unique dishes. Elaborate blown
prepared. d Map M3 • 152 E Pecan St glass sculptures, a full bar, Latin
• 210-212-2221 • Open Tue–Sat • www. wine list, and live music enhance
restaurantlereve.com • $$$$$ the experience. d Map G5 • 713 S
Alamo • 210-225-5550 • Open Mon–Sat

# Bistro Vatel
The freshest of ingredients
• www.azuca.net • $$

are presented in classic French

style here. Choose the three ^ Zuni Grill
Located at a picturesque bend
course prix-fixe menu, or select in the river under tall cypress
individual dishes. The wine list and trees, this eatery serves cuisine
the desserts are fabulous. d Map more reminiscent of Santa Fe than
G4 • 218 E Olmos • 210-828-3141 • Open Texas, with spicy entrées such as
Tue–Sat • www.bistrovatel.com • $$$ scorpion shrimp-stuffed red chilies.
The famous cactus margaritas
are refreshing. d Map G5 • 223
Losoya • 210-227-0864 • www.
zunigrill.com • $$$$

& Silo
Excellent New American-
style cuisine, great service,
and lovely decor define Silo.
Entrées include braised
Chilean sea bass on crab
Acenar Restaurant saffron risotto, and grilled

56 U l
Unless otherwise
h i stated,
stated
d allll restaurants are open
p daily,
d
daily
ily accept
p
credit
dit cards,
cards
d and d serve vegetarian
t i di dishes.
dishes
h
 Top 10 Cafés, Delis,
and Diners
! Schilo’s
Favored since 1917, this
German deli has great split-pea

San Antonio
Sa
soup and root beer (see p55).

Dessert at Silo
@ Gunter Bakery
Sandwiches, club-style or
Black Angus tenderloin with blue in combos d Map N3 • 205 E
Houston St • 210-224-0763• $

o o & Austin’s
cheese mashed potatoes. d Map
G4 • 1133 Austin Hwy at Mt Calvary
• 210-824-8686 • Open Mon–Sat • www. £ Twin Sisters
This café offers fresh,
siloelevatedcuisine.com • $$$$ vegetarian entrées. d Map N3
• 124 Broadway • 210-822-2265
• Open Mon–Frii • $
* Ciao Lavanderia

us
This affordable and superb
Italian restaurant offers a $ Sip Coffee &
Expresso Bar
winning combination of funky This cafe serves fresh panini
sandwiches, salads, and

s Top
decor as well as great food.
soups. d Map N3 • 160 E
Entrées range from angel hair Houston St • 210-222-0149 • $

op 10
pasta topped with a tomato basil
sauce, to veal shank with pasta.
d Map G4 • 226 E Olmos Dr • 210-822-
% Madhatters
An eclectic menu that
includes vegetarian dishes as
3990 • www.ciaolavanderia.com • $$
well as eggs Benedict. d Map 0
M6 • 320 Beauregard St • 210-

( Francesca’s at Sunset
Luxury dining and great
212-4832 • $$

views over the golf course to

the Hill Country beyond, set a
^ Guenther House
Restaurant
Features freshly baked breads
romantic tone. The menu is and pastries (see p24).
inspired by Mark Miller’s Santa
Fe Coyote Café and features
Texan-style Southwestern
& Joseph’s
& Bakery
Storehouse

cuisine. d Map D3 • Westin La Offers creative sandwiches,

and delicious entrées.
Cantera, 16641 La Cantera Pkwy • 210- d Map G4 • 3420 N St. Mary’s
558-6500 • Open Tue–Sat, reservations • 210-737-3430 • $$
recommended • $$$$ • www.
westinlacantera.com
* Earl Abel’s
This favorite since 1931
serves Texan comfort food all
) LaThisFonda on Main
charming restaurant
day long. d Map G4 • 4210
Broadway • 210-822-3358 • $
with a delightful Mexican ranch-
style patio, offers huge Tex-Mex
platters. Traditional Mexican
( Buckhorn Saloon
Once a saloon, now a café
with a Wild West feel and
cuisine is served and includes Texan food (see p40).
entrées like Pescado Veracruzana
(fresh Gulf fish fillet sautéed in
Veracruz sauce). d Map G4 • 2415 N
) Carriage
Kitchen
House

Main at Woodlawn • 210-733-0621 Fresh quiches and amazing

desserts. d Map G4 • 555
• www.weddingssanantonio.com/sites/ Funston • 210-821-6447 • $
lafondaonmain • $$

FFor a key
k y to
t price
p i categories
categories,
t g i see p73,
p
p73
73 79,
79 85,
85 95, 101..
95 101 57
 0
op 10

Left Live jazz performance at the Landing Right Rivercenter Comedy Club signage

Nightlife
s Top

$ Floore Country Store

o o & Austin’s

Legendary country stars who

have performed here include
Willie Nelson, Hank Williams, and
us

Ernest Tubbs. This is one of the

last of the Texan honky-tonks, with
autographed photos, and Western
memorabilia. The barbeque is
San Antonio

great, and the stage and dance

floor are outdoors. d Map D3 • 14492
Casbeer’s wall decorations Old Bandera Rd, Helotes • 210-695-8827

! Casbeer’s
A favorite since the 1930s, % White Rabbit
With a crystal-clear sound
this bar and restaurant has system turned up loud, this club
Sa

outstanding music that ranges attracts a mixture of performers,

from rock, to bluegrass, to from hard rock acts to alternative
country, and folk. One Sunday a bands. Come early as the place
month features a Gospel Brunch fills up quickly at weekends and
with buffet and gospel music. when a national act is on stage.
d Map F4 • 1719 Blanco Rd • 210-732- d Map G4 • 2410 N St. Mary’s St • 210-
3511 • Open Tue–Sat 737-2221 • Open Thu–Sat

@ Kingston Tycoon Flats

Live entertainment five ^ The Landing
Presenting live classical jazz,
nights a week, with the sounds this renowned club on the River
of jazz, the beat of reggae, or Walk is where the famed Jim
lively guitar and drum wars. The Cullum Band improvise in the style
food is good, the atmosphere is reminiscent of pre-WWII jazz
fun, and there is also a full bar. ensembles. The evening air is filled
d Map G4 • 2926 N St. Mary’s St • 210- with the sounds of period
731-9838 • Open Tue–Sat instruments playing jazz (see p8).

£ Gruene Hall
Since 1868 this dance hall
has vibrated with the sounds of
the great names in country and
Western music. This is the place
to visit for good music and beer
in an old-time atmosphere.
Gospel music and a buffet is
held on the second Sunday of
the month (see p81). Old-world charm of Gruene Hall

58 U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated,
stated
t t d all
ll clubs
l b open daily
d il att about
b t 8pm
8 and
d
close at about 2am on weekends
weekends,, and at midnight
g during g the week
week.
 Top 10 Bars
! Atomar Bar & Lounge
Chic bar scene with a DJ
spinning international music
on weekends d Map G5 5 • 146

San Antonio
Sa
E Houston St • 210-222-2362

Sign, Mad Dogs British Pub @ Azúca

Latin cocktails and live
weekend entertainment, from
& Mad Dogs British Pub tangos to Latin bands (see p56).

o o & Austin’s
Fun rules at this pub with
Hong Kong origins. There is live
entertainment, with Monday night
£ Blue Star Brewing
Company
This pub serves award-winning
football and an occasional karaoke lagers and organic steak.
night thrown in. The staff wear d Map G55 • 1414 S Alamo St
kilts and the food is good. d Map • 210-212-5506 • Open 11–12am

us
N4 • 123-19 Losoya St • 210-222-0220 Mon–Thu, 11–1am Fri–Sat

* Polly Esther’s $ Cadillac Bar &

Restaurant

s Top
Music from the 1970s through Attracts lawyers on weekdays
the 1990s plays at this popular but on weekends singles liven

op 10
club. Disco fans celebrate the the atmosphere. d Map L4
sounds of Tony Manero. The • 212 S Flores St • 210-223-5533
Culture Club has 80s music, and
the “Purple Rain”dance floor is a % Durty Nellie’s Irish Pub
This pub is a popular River 0
must-try. At sleek, pulsating Club Walk gathering place. d Map
Expo the sounds run from rap to N4 • 200 S Alamo at the Hilton
hip-hop to salsa. d Map N4 • 212 Palacio del Rio • 210-222-1400
College St • 210-220-1972
^ Howl at the Moon
Famous for the piano sing-

( Rivercenter Comedy Club

Laughter prevails at this live
along. d Map N4 • 111 W
Crockett St • 210-212-4695
comedy club. Big-name stand-up
acts are frequent, such as Chris & Liberty Bar
A friendly restaurant and
Rock and Dennis Miller. The local bar serving Texan and Mexican
Oxymorons Improvisational Troupe food. d Map G5 • 328 E
is hilarious, and the late Saturday Josephine St • 210-227-1187
night show is targeted at adults.
d Map P4 • 849 E Commerce St, River- * The Menger Bar
Historic bar where Teddy
center Mall • 210-229-1420 • Shows Roosevelt recruited men for
8:30pm Sun–Thu; 8:30 & 10:45pm Fri; the Rough Riders (see p38).
7:30, 9:45pm, & midnight (adults only)
( Swig
Sophisticated spot serving
) This club is a favorite, and the
Salute fantastic martinis and wine.
d Map N4 • 111 W Crockett St
bands play everything from blues, • 210-476-0005
and tejano, to conjunto and jazz
with a Latin flair. The clientele is ) Zinc Champagne &
Wine Bar
as eclectic as the music, and The wine list here is extensive
Thursday nights are popular. and menu creative. d Map N4
d Map G4 • 2801 N St. Mary’s St • 210- • 209 N Presa St • 210-224-2900
732-5307 • Open 8pm–2am Wed–Sat

59
 0
op 10

Left Golfing greens Right Barton Springs, one of the many swimming pools in the area

Outdoor Activities
s Top

! Cycling
o o & Austin’s

The best biking routes are

along the river on the Missions
Trail (see p15), and in urban
us

parks such as Brackenridge Park

(see pp32–33). The San Antonio
Wheelmen offers weekend rides
into the Texan Hill Country.
San Antonio

d www.sawheelmen.com

@ Golfing
Most of the three-dozen golf Cycling in San Antonio
courses in San Antonio are
open to the public. Choices
include Brackenridge and the $ Swimming
Most hotels have pools, but
Sa

Quarry Golf Club, with shots you can also go to the Parks and
across limestone chasms. Recreation Department pools in
Contact the city’s Visitors Center summer. For year-round swimming
for information. d 800-447-3372 there is the Palo Alto College
• www.sanantoniovisit.com Natatorium. d Prks & Recreation Dept:
Map G4; 210-207-7275 • Palo Alto College

# Fishing spots are near the

Fishing Natatorium: Map A2; 210-921-5234

city, such as Calaveras Lake

southeast of town, Canyon Lake % River Sports
Tubing on a Hill Country river
north of New Braunfels, and on a summer’s day is a great
Medina Lake south of Bandera. pastime. From Guadalupe River
For surf-fishing, head to Padre State Park, go down the river as
Island National Seashore (see it winds under limestone bluffs,
p47). Fishing licenses are or head to Garner State Park and
required for all non-residents. tube beneath the cypress trees
d www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fishboat/fish bordering the River Frio. d Guada-
lupe River S Park: Map A2; 830-438-2656
• Garner S Park: Map A2; 830-232-6132

^ Hiking
Hiking is a favorite pastime
in the hills northwest of the city.
Friedrich Wilderness Park is close
to town, while the hike to the
granite rock at the Enchanted
Rock State Natural Area offers
Surf-fishing, South Padre Island Beach panoramic views (see p82).

60 Th ffree Texas
The T State
St t Park
P kGGuide
id iis available
il bl online
li att www.tpwd.
www ttpwd
d
state.tx.us/parkguide
state
e tx us/parkguide
p g e
& Tennis
One of the best public
Top 10 Spectator
Sports
tennis facilities in the US,
McFarlin Tennis Center, is in San
Pedro Park. Reservations are
! Auto Racing
October through March at

San Antonio
Sa
the San Antonio Speedway.
required. The Parks and Recrea- d Map A3 • 210-628-1499
tion Department also manages
140 courts throughout the city.
d Map G5 • McFarlin Tennis Center, 1503
@ Baseball
Minor league San Antonio
San Pedro Avenue • 210-732-1223 Missions play from April to
September. d Map E5 • Nelson

o o & Austin’s
Wolff Stadium: • 210-675-7275
* Hockey
The official practice facility
£ Basketball
for the Rampage, San Antonio’s The San Antonio Spurs
American Hockey League play at the AT&T Center,
October through May. d Map
team, is open to the public.

us
Q5 • 210-444-5819
Northwoods Ice Center has two
ice-sheets, a pro-shop, and
restaurant. d Map G2 • Northwoods
$ Collegiate Sports
Four colleges have
championship teams such as

s Top
Ice Center • www.northwoodsice.net
soccer, baseball, and tennis.

op 10
% Golf Tournaments
The Valero Texas Open at La
Cantera and the SBC Champ-
ionship at Oak Hills. d La
Cantera Golf Club: Map E3; 201- 0
345-3818 • Oak Hills Country
Club: Map E3; 210-698-3582

^ Greyhound Racing
Live dog races are held at
the Corpus Christi Race Track.
Bird-watching d Map C4 • 361- 289-9333

( Bird-Watching
The San Antonio Audubon
& Horse Racing
Live horse racing at
Retama Park from late April
Society lists 25 birding spots on
through early November.
their website, including Friedrich d Map J2 • 210-651-7000
Wilderness Park and Bracken-
ridge Park. The Texas Coastal
Birding Trail was the nation’s
* Ice Hockey
The San Antonio Rampage
first, and tour maps link over 300 plays at the AT&T Center from
October to April.
birding sites. d www.tpwd.state.tx.
us/huntwild/wild/wildlife_trails/coastal
( Rodeo
The San Antonio Stock

) Water Parks
San Antonians love to get
Show & Rodeo (see p64)
is a highlight, and rodeos are
held near Bandera throughout
wet, and with four huge water the year (see p81).
parks nearby, this is easy. At
SeaWorld, whales drench you
with a flick of a tail, while Six
) Running/Marathons
Each fall, runners from
Flags Fiesta offers a Texas shaped around the world attend the
YMCA sponsored marathon.
pool. Splashtown and Schlitterbahn d www.samarathon.org
have many exhilarating slides.

61
 0
op 10

Left Main lodge at Y.O. Ranch Center Institute of Texan Cultures Right Festive Market Square

Cultural Experiences
s Top

! Y.ThisO.working
Ranch
$ Market Square
o o & Austin’s

ranch in El Mercado is a great

the charming Hill Country place to experience the
with cowboys, longhorn joyful and romantic Hispanic
us

cattle, and exotic animals culture. Serenading

offers a variety of activities. mariachis, folk dancing,
Take a horseback ride across and the bold hues of
the range or go on a guided Mexican goods create a
San Antonio

tour of some exotic animals. vely festive atmosphere.

There is also a traditional ample some of the 50
chuck wagon dinner with rieties of Mexican baked
cowboys, and a three-day ca oods at Mi Terra Café &
drive. d Map A1 • Y. O. Ranch, kery (see p55), or stop in
Mountain Home, NW of Kerrville and see the latest exhibit at the
• 830-640-3222 • Reservations Cowboy Smithsonian affiliated Museo
Sa

required • www.yoranch.com Americano (see p40).

@ Gruene Hall
The oldest operating dance % Mariachi
San José
Mass at Mission

hall in Texas remains a popular This uplifting Catholic Mass is

cultural venue, as it was in the led by the Franciscan priests of
1880s, when the German settlers Mission San José. Long lines of
came here for entertainment. visitors join the local congre-
Singing legends George Strait, Lyle gation, many of whose families
Lovett, and Jerry Jeff Walker helped build the church, at the
began their careers at Gruene Hall. noon Mass every Sunday. This
Other country and Western stars beautiful service is in English
who have played here include The with an excellent Spanish choir
Dixie Chicks, Garth Brooks, and and is accompanied by a fun
Jerry Lee Lewis (see p81). mariachi band. Come early as
seating is limited (see p14–17).

£ Rodeo
Rodeos recreate the Wild
West, with cowboys riding horses
and bulls, calf-roping, bull-riding,
and fancy rope work. Bandera,
“The Cowboy Capital of the
World,” has cowboys that ride in
rodeos twice a week from late
May to Labor Day weekend. The
annual rodeo draws national-level
competitors and spectators every
February (see p81). Annual Stock Show & Rodeo event

62 S A
San Antonio
t i MMuseum off A
Art
Art’st’s ((see p40)
40) L
Latin
ti AAmerican
i wing
i
p
presents Spanish
p Colonial,, folk
Colonial folk,, and modern artart.
 d Map A1 • Ausländer Restaurant and
Biergarten: 323 E Main, Fredericksburg
• 830-997-7714 • www.theauslander.com

( Naegelin’s Bakery

San Antonio
Sa
The oldest operating bakery
in Texas sells fabulous German and
Czech baked goods such as bear
Live entertainment, Six Flags Fiesta claws, cream puffs, and kolaches
filled with cheese, fruit, or poppy

o o & Austin’s
^ Six Flags Fiesta Texas
This water park has many
seeds. d Map B2 • 29 S Sequin Ave,
New Braunfels • 830-625-5722
cultural aspects. Themed areas
include a German town, a Hispanic
village, and a Western town. ) Institute of Texan Cultures
This museum offers a
Several times a day the gala show, fascinating presentation of the

us
Teatro Fiesta, presents perform- 26 ethnic groups that form Texas
ances with costumed dancers and through historic exhibits and arti-
joyful mariachi music. And best of facts. Discover the unique Tejano

s Top
all is the Lone Star Spectacular, culture formed by generations of
the laser and fireworks extrava- Mexican and Spanish descendants

op 10
ganza named the Best Outdoor living in Texas (see p40).
Night Show by Amusement Today
magazine (see p76).
0
& Museum
Kerrville
of Western Art

Rotating exhibits present the

cowboys, Native Americans,
settlers, and mountain men who
created the legends of the exciting
era when the West was tamed. Texas flag, Institute of Texan Cultures
The adventures of the
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* Biergarten
Fredericksburg
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with some Hill Country
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indulge in German and /D9HUQLD
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63
 0
op 10

Left Scenes from Dyeing O’ The River Green Right Fiesta San Antonio

Festivals and Events

s Top

multicultural heritage. Over 100

o o & Austin’s

events are held including the

historic Battle of Flowers Pageant,
and the Fiesta Flambeau, one of
us

the country’s largest night parades.

d www.fiesta-sa.org

$ Tejano Conjunto Festival

San Antonio

Live performances at
Rosedale Park feature bands
San Antonio Rodeo playing conjunto, the unique
Texan style of music combining

! San Antonio Stock

Show & Rodeo
German accordion with Mexican
rhythms. Held annually in May,
More than a thousand cowboys performers have included Flaco
Sa

and cowgirls entertain crowds Jimenez, Esteban Jordan, and

for 16 days each February, at one the Garcia Brothers. d Map F5
of the largest indoor rodeos in
the US. Professionals compete in
bronc and bull-riding, calf-roping, % Return of the Chili Queens
In May, Market Square steps
and steer-wrestling events. back in time to the days when
d www.sarodeo.com young women arrived in Military
Plaza (see p38)) to sell chili bowls

@ Dyeing O’ The River Green

The river runs green with
to passers-by. Every Memorial Day
weekend there is mariachi music,
dye and is renamed the River and a chili cook-off (see p70).
Shannon during the annual
St. Patrick’s day festi-
vities along the River ^ Kerrville Folk Festival
Held between late May
Walk in March. Two and early June, this folk
parades, one through music festival gathers
the downtown hundreds of bands and
streets, and the songwriters for an 18-
other floating on the day extravaganza.
river, feature Irish Notables such as
music (see pp8–9). Guy Clark and the
Limeliters have

£ Fiesta San Antonio

San Antonio’s oldest and
performed here.
d Map A2 • Quiet
largest festival held each Valley Ranch, 9 miles S
April, honors the memory of of Kerrville on Hwy 16
the heroes of the Alamo, and • 830-257-3600 • www.
celebrates the city’s Local in festive attire kerrville-music.com

64 O
Over 80 vendors
d from
f across the
th country
t sell
ll hand
h
hand-made
d made
d arts
t and
d
crafts at the Kerrville Folk Festival
Festival.
 Top 10 Christmas
Events
! Ford Holiday River
Parade and Lighting
Ceremony

San Antonio
Sa
Thousands of colored lights
hang over the River Walk.
d Map M4 • 210-227-4262
Dance and music celebrations
@ Fiestas Navideñas

o o & Austin’s
The annual Blessing of the
& A fabulous four-day fiesta of
Texas Folklife Festival
Animals by a San José priest,
at Market Square. d Map K4
music, dance, and food from
more than 40 ethnic groups is
held at the Institute of Texan
£ Las Posadas
Actors playing Mary and
Joseph search for shelter in a
Cultures during the second

us
procession from Milam Park
weekend of June. Performances to the Cathedral. d Map K3
range from story-telling and hula,
Czech, and Mexican dances, to
$ Fiesta de Las
Luminarias

s Top
the Cowboy Sunset Serenade
For nine nights in December
with poetry and stories. d Map P5
7,000 luminarias light up the

op 10
• www.texasfolklifefestival.com River Walk in a 40-year-old
Mexican tradition. d Map M4

* Oktoberfest
A three-day celebration of % Holiday Boat Caroling
Evenings along the River 0
Texan-German heritage with lots
Walk are filled with the
of music and fast-paced polka sounds of carols. d Map M4
and waltz contests. Delicious
German and Tex-Mex foods are
available, with local wines as
^ Holiday River of Lights
A drive to see amazing
light displays through Cypress
well as 30 varieties of domestic
Bend Park. d Map B2 • Cypress
and imported beer. d Map A1 Bend Park, New Braunfels
• Marktplatz, Fredericksburg • 830-997-
4810 • Adm • www.oktoberfestinfbg.com
& Special Events
Museums and theaters
host special Christmas events.
( Cine Festival
The largest and oldest Latino
film festival in the US, showing * Texas Hill Country
Regional Christmas
cutting-edge films by Latinos.The Lighting Trail
Latino experience is held at the Spectacular lighting displays in
Hill Country communities,
Guadalupe Cultural Arts Center
including New Braunfels.
in November (see p50).

( Christmas Along the

) More than 50,000 lbs (22,000
Wurstfest Corridor
The annual Pony Express Ride
along the river to deliver a
kg) of sausages are consumed to
Christmas message.
celebrate German heritage in
November. Events include an Old
Time Melodrama and Wurstfest ) Los Pastores
The Mexican folk play at
Regatta on Canyon Lake. d Map Mission San José shows the
shepherds’ journey to find the
B2 • Wurstfest Grounds in Landa Park,
Christ Child. d Map G6
New Braunfels • www.wurstfest.com

Th
There iis an admission
d i i charge
h ffor some off the
th events,
events
t while
hil others
th 65
are free
free.
 AROUND
A ROUND
TOWN
Downtown
D ownto
own San
San Antonio
Antonio
o
68–73
68–73

SAN ANTONIO & AUSTIN’S TOP 10

Beyond
B eyond Downtown
Downtown
SSan
an A
Antonio
ntonio
o
74–79
74–79
Hill
H ill Country
Countryy
80–87
80–87
Austin
Austin
n
90–95
9 0–95
SSouth
outh of
of San
San Antonio
Antonio
o
96–10
96–101
01
Around Town – Downtown San Antonio

Left River cruise at the River Walk Right Gallery, San Antonio Museum of Art

Downtown San Antonio

T HE HEART AND SOUL OF SAN ANTONIO is centered in the historic
downtown area. The city began with the building of the first Spanish
mission on the banks of the San Antonio River. That mission, now known as
the Alamo, stands today as a legendary memorial to liberty. The modern
downtown area is encircled by freeways, and within this boundary lies the
crown jewel of San Antonio, El Paseo del Rio, the River Walk. This festive,
bustling walkway along the river boasts many of the city’s finest restaurants,
cafés, clubs, and hotels. Surrounding the Alamo and the River Walk is a
vibrant, multicultural city with a fascinating history and abundant historic
sites. Market Square, the exquisite
Governor’s Palace, and San
Fernando Cathedral date from the
Spanish era. The King William
Historic District and St. Joseph’s
Church are reminders of the waves
of German and European settlers who
arrived in the 1800s. And then there
are the legends of cattle drives and
cowboys, found at the Buckhorn
Skyline, San Antonio Saloon and Menger Hotel.
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68 Previous
P i pages: A street
t t view,
view
i Bandera
B d
 £ LaHistoric
Villita National
District
The Little Village, La Villita, sits
above the San Antonio River and
became a popular place to live

Around
following the flood of 1819, which

ou d Town
destroyed many homes in the low-
lying land near the plaza. By 1880,
German and French immigrants
had converted this former military
area into a village whose cultural

o
mix is reflected in the variety of
Chapel façade, the Alamo architectural styles found here.
Today, this village offers brightly

! The

– Downtown
Alamo colored craft shops, art galleries,
The Alamo is the most and some of the best dining in San
visited historic site in Texas, Antonio (see pp22–23).

o
maintained as the Shrine of Texas
Liberty in honor of the men who
fought here against incredible $ HemisFair Park
HemisFair Park is an urban

o
odds during the 1836 Texas oasis with fountains, shady
Revolution. Although millions visit walkways, and a children’s
each year, the Alamo has a quiet, playground. The Institute of Texan

San
Sa Antonio
chapel-like atmosphere. The Cultures (see p40) presents the
chapel was built in 1744, part of fascinating peoples and cultures of
the mission established by the Texas in 26 exhibits, one for each
Spanish along the San Antonio of the ethnic groups that settled in
River in 1718. By the mid-1700s, Texas. A special exhibit, Footprints
o o

the mission had become a and Imprints, showcases famous

thriving community with Texans by displaying a pair of their
farmlands, a cattle ranch, and a boots. d Map N5 • Bounded by Alamo,
granary (see pp10–13). Bowie, Market, and Durango Streets
• 210-223-3101

@ River Walk
The fascinating River Walk
attracts far more visitors each year
than any other place in San
Antonio. The atmosphere here is
strikingly different from the rest of
the downtown area. A popular way
to experience the River Walk is by
dining at the waters’ edge and
listening to the sounds of jazz and
mariachi music at night. The most
informative is to take a river cruise
to see attractions that include the
tall Torch of Friendship and the
Tower of the Americas. A lovely
walk takes in the length of the
pathway, through the vibrant
restaurant area and the quiet
green spaces (see pp8–9). Tower of the Americas, HemisFair Park

69
Around Town – Downtown San Antonio

Pottery shop at El Mercado, Market Square

& Market Square

Until the early 1900s, the
festive open-air market where San
Antonio housewives bought their

% San Fernando Cathedral

The magnificent San Fernando
bread and meat was held at
Military Plaza. When plans for the
Cathedral is the oldest Roman new City Hall were finalized, the
Catholic cathedral sanctuary in the market moved to El Mercado in
US. This is where James Bowie Market Square. Some of San
was married in 1831, and where Antonio’s most popular Mexican
General Santa Anna flew the red restaurants are located here.
flag of no mercy in 1836. Streams Vibrant festivals, mariachi music,
of visitors come to savor the and lively folk dancing occur
cathedral’s spiritual serenity, view most weekends and evenings.
the incredible retabloss and The new Museo Americano is
religious artifacts, and see the located at the entrance to
sarcophagus, that reputedly holds Market Square d Map K4 • 514 W
the remains of the defenders of Commerce • 210-207-8600 • Open
the Alamo (see pp20–21). summer: 10am–8pm; winter: 10am–6pm
• www.marketsquaresa.com

^ Spanish Governor’s Palace

This restored home of the
* San Antonio Museum
Spanish officials who resided in of Art
San Antonio in the 1700s, is This ultra-modern museum
today furnished with 18th- presents art through the
century antiques, and is centuries from ancient
the only early Egypt, Greece, Rome,
aristocratic Spanish China, Europe, and Latin
home remaining in Texas. The America. Its folk art
original doors are carved gallery displays a rich mix
with seashells, dragons, of art in every medium
and flowers, symbols of imaginable. The new Asian
Spanish exploration in the wing includes Chinese
New World. Of particular bronzes, jade, Japanese
interest are an early armor, and the only intact
map of the Villa de San Tibetan sand mandala in
Fernando in the main the US. d Map P1 • 200 W
room, an 18th-century Jones Ave • 210-978-8100
table, and a hand-carved • Open 1–8pm Tue, 10am–5pm
chest made in Madrid Wed, noon–6pm Sun
c.1720 (see p38). Detail, San Fernando Cathedral • www.samuseum.org

70
 A River Walk to La
Villita and the Alamo
Early Morning
Start at the Torch of

Around
Friendship, and walk down
the stairs on to the River

ou d Town
Walk (see pp8–9). Head
south to the Arneson River
Theatre. The arched bridge
ahead links the theater’s
stage on the opposite bank

o
to the audience seating on
this side. It is named
Rosita’s Bridge for singer
Lobby detail, Aztec Theater Rosita Fernandez. The next

– Downtown
section of the River Walk is

( Majestic Theatre
One of the finest examples
Bowens Island with the
Tower Life Building (see

o
p42). Follow the river to the
of the lavish theaters built in the
left (south) at the inter-
1920s to house vaudeville shows section along the west of
and the emerging silent movies, the King William Historic

o
the Majestic is stylishly elegant. District (see pp24–25). At
Moorish-Baroque styles Johnson St, cross the
bridge, and go south along
predominate, with ornate
the river to the Guenther

San
Sa Antonio
decorations, plaster sculpture, House Restaurant (see p24),
and faux woodwork. It seats next to the Pioneer Flour
2,400 under a simulated night Tower. Enjoy breakfast at
sky. Restored in the early 1990s, this historic home and visit
the small museum
it is the home of the San Antonio
upstairs.
o o

Symphony, which presents a full

season of popular and classical Late Morning
concerts here (see p50). Exit the restaurant and
turn right on Guenther St.

) Aztec On The River

Abandoned for years, this
Turn left on to King William
St (see p24). At 509, Steves
Homestead, take the
once magnificent 1926 silent-
docent-led tour. Go along
movie palace has undergone this historic street, pass by
a phenomenal restoration and King William Park and the
opened in 2006. Meticulously San Antonio Art League
restored to its former grandeur Museum. Turn left on to St.
using its original paint colors, Aztec Mary’s St, then right on to
Durango and another left on
and Mayan culture is featured Alamo St. HemisFair Park
throughout, with huge Aztec-mask (see p69)) is right across the
wall sconces, plaster sculptures, street. Ahead on your left is
giant urns, massive columns, and the La Villita National
colorful murals. The theater area Historic District (see pp22–
23). Stop to see the historic
offers a big screen movie experi- district, or pause for some
ence that begins with a 10-minute shopping. Continue on
presentation of Aztec history Alamo St to the Alamo (see
accompanied by music played on a pp10–13)) and see the film in
Wurlitzer organ. A free animatron- the Long Barrack Museum.
Then head over to the River
ics sound and light show is offered Walk for a relaxing lunch.
in the main lobby (see p8).

71
Around Town – Downtown San Antonio

Left Colorful hand-made pottery Center SW School of Art & Craft Right Teapot, Mexico Lindo

Places to Shop
! Market Square
Many shops offer colorful & ElAuthentic
Sol Studios
high-quality
Mexican goods, from jewelry and Mexican folk art and Latin
fabrics to sombreros and bright American antiques are sold here,
tin and paper items (see p70). including a large selection of Day
of the Dead artifacts. d Map M6

@ LaTheVillita
Village Gallery specializes
• 936 S Alamo St • 210-226-9700

in hand-made pottery, while

Artistic Endeavors features * Menger Hotel Shops
Shops here offer clothing and
Southwest artists. d The Village collectibles. J. Adelman sells art,
Gallery: Map N5; 210-226-0404 • Artistic antique, and estate jewelry, while
Endeavors: Map N5; 210-222-2497 Kings X has a fantastic range of
toy-soldiers. d Map N4

£ Blue Star Arts Complex

This group of former
( Chamade Jewelers
warehouses with shops such as This shop offers fine jewelry
the San Angel Folk Art offers inter- by international artists, with
national folk and modern art. dazzling diamonds from Europe
d Map G5 • 116 Blue Star • 210-227-6960 and brilliant turquoise from Hopi,
Navajo, and Zuni reservations.

$ Southwest
and Craft
School of Art d Map N5 • 504 Villita St • 210-224-7753

An exceptional shop with arts and

crafts in various media by interna- ) Mexico Lindo
Wall-hangings from Huichol,
tional professionals. d Map M2 woodcarvings from Olinalá, and
• Ursuline Campus, 300 Augusta St • 210- jewelry with preserved miniature
224-1848 • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat flowers mounted with pewter, fill
this shop. d Map N3 • 110 Broadway

% Rivercenter Mall
Foley’s and Dillard’s
St 100 • 210-225-3463
7
67 5 ( (

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department stores are the anchor 

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stores of downtown’s largest and

( / 0 67
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most convenient mall (see p48). : + 28

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^ This cutting-edge gallery

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Wed–Sun, noon–8pm Thu

72 M t shops
Most h open att 10
10am and
d close
l att 9
9pm M
Mon
Mon–Fri.
Mon–Fri
F
Fri.
i Ti
Timings
i on
weekends vary
vary.
y
 Around
Outside dining at Boudro’s

ou d Town
Places to Eat
! Biga
Banks
on the de mole, and tasty pork tips in chili
sauce. d Map M6 • 910 S Alamo St,

o
This award-winning King William • 210-223-1806 • $
restaurant serves
some of the River
& King Willie’s Barbeque

– Downtown
Walk’s best food. This popular barbeque spot in
Entrées include Biga sign Southtown offers pecan and oak-
sesame tempura- smoked brisket with Texas Red

o
crusted swordfish. d Map M4 • 203 Neck sauce. d Map M6 • 943 S Alamo
S St. Mary’s St • 210-225-0722 • $$$$ St, King William • 210-277-1689 • $

o
@ Pesca on the River
The finest wild fish is flown in * Republic of Texas
Popular Texan and Tex-Mex
from around the world, and an dishes are served along the River

San
Sa Antonio
exceptional selection of vintage Walk. d Map N4 • 526 River Walk St
wines is served. d Map M4 • 212 W • 210-226-6256 • $$
Crockett St • 210-396-5817 • $$$$$

£ A local favorite for New

Boudro’s ( LaRestaurant
Margarita Mexican
and Oyster Bar
o o

The special fajitas at this New

American cuisine made from fresh Orleans-style restaurant are served
Texan beef, Gulf seafood, and Hill with a super-hot pico de gallo
Country produce. d Map N4 • 421 E sauce. d Map L4 • 120 Produce Row,
Commerce St • 210-224-8484 • $$$ Market Square • 210-227-7140 • $$

$ Paesano’s Riverwalk
Classic Mediterranean and ) Lone Star Café
This popular River Walk café
Italian cuisine, and fine wines are serves old-fashioned Texan country
the trademark here. The shrimp cooking and Tex-Mex dishes. d Map
Paesano is legendary. d Map N4 N4 • 237 Losoya • 210-223-9374 • $$
• 111 W Crockett • 210-227-2782 • $$$$
7
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: + 2 8 672 1
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The menu features filet mignon,  ' 2 /2 5

rack of lamb, and lobster. d Map 67

6 $ 67

N4 • 515 Villita • 210-224-1976 • $$$

((
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U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated,
stated
t t d all
ll restaurants
t t are open daily,
d
daily
il acceptt 73
credit cards
cards,, and serve vegetarian
g dishes
dishes.
 San Antonio
o o

Left Sculpture at the McNay Art Museum Right Sunset Station

Beyond Downtown San Antonio

T HE SAN ANTONIO RIVER ORIGINATES FROM DOZENS OF SPRINGS located in

and near Brackenridge Park four miles (six km) north of the Alamo. For over
Sa

11,000 years people have visited and lived in this area, drawn by the river’s fresh
water. The Spanish built their missions to the south of the Alamo, diverting water
eyo d Downtown

from the river to their fields. The Quadrangle at Fort Sam Houston was built
o

northeast of downtown in 1876, and this army base has grown exponentially
over the years. In the 1890s, the area that now
includes Brackenridge Park, the Witte Museum, and
o

San Antonio Botanical Garden, began to develop into

one of the city’s finest neighborhoods. Broadway is a
– Beyond

major street here, lined by fine restaurants and shops.

ou d Town
Around o

Clock tower, Fort Sam

San Antonio Botanical Garden

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74
! National
San Antonio Missions
Historical Park
By the 1750s, hundreds of Native
American converts lived and
worked in the Spanish missions.

Around
Each was a complete agricultural

ou d Town
community with irrigation systems
and extensive land holdings. Today,
the National Park Service presents Hixon Bird House, San Antonio Zoo
different aspects of mission life
here, making a visit to each setting, presenting a spectrum of

o
mission unique (see pp14–17). African animals by habitat, from
river-bound hippos to animals of

@ SeaWorld San Antonio the dry savannah (see pp34–35).

– Beyond
Located 16 miles (26 km)
northwest of downtown, the
world’s largest marine-life $ Fort Sam Houston
The birthplace of military

eyo d Downtown
park offers rides, non-stop aviation, this active military
entertainment, and educational installation is also the headquarters
opportunities. The killer whale of the Fifth Army, and home to
show Believe! is a must-see, and both the Army Medical Command
at Coral Reef, thousands of Indian and the Brookes Army Medical

o
and Pacific Ocean fish create a Center. Generals John J.
stunning display of colors in the “Blackjack” Pershing and Dwight
300,000-gallon tank (see pp26–27). Eisenhower served here. The o
famous Native American,

£ San Antonio Zoo

Over 750 species from five
Geronimo, was imprisoned in the
Quadrangle in 1886. The US Army
continents thrive in one of the Medical Department Museum, is
Sa
San Antonio

nation’s foremost zoos. Set within situated here and features an

the dramatic limestone cliffs and impressive medical collection.
outcroppings of an old quarry, the d Map G5 • Fort Sam Houston Museum:
landscaping varies from desert-like 210-221-1886; open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun
regions to wetlands along the San • Quadrangle: open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri
o o

Antonio River. The Africa Live! • US Army Medical Dept Museum: 210-
exhibit takes advantage of this 221-6277; open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat

A ride at SeaWorld San Antonio

75
Around Town – Beyond Downtown San Antonio

Entrance to the Witte Museum

feature experiments that place

% This superb museum features

The McNay Art Museum objects in streams of moving air,
and there is also an Archimedes
paintings and sculpture by artists screw and waterwheels. The Witte
such as O’Keeffe and Rivera. The houses the famous Hertzberg
collection of prints and drawings Circus Collection, and displays
includes works by artists such as portions of it in the exhibits area.
Goya, Toulouse-Lautrec, and d Map G4 • 3801 Broadway • 210-357-
Martin. The Tobin Collection of 1900 • Open 10am–5pm Mon, Wed–Sat;
Theatre Arts takes a unique look at 10am–8pm Tue; noon–5pm Sun • Adm
theater through an extensive • www.wittemuseum.org
collection of costume design and
stage art (see pp18–19).
* Six Flags Fiesta Texas
This 200-acre theme park

^ San Antonio Botanical

Garden
nestled within an old quarry adds
thrilling new rides every year.
A short distance northeast of Centrifugal force keeps two-
downtown, flora and fauna from person tubes whirling around the
around the world fill every corner sides of the 40 ft (12 m) diameter
of this stunning paradise. The Whirlpool, before the final 50 ft
Lucile Halsell Conservatory houses (15 m) splashdown. Xcelleration
radically different collections, combines BMX bikes, bungee
including an Alpine terrain of edel- artists, and acrobats into a visually
weiss and lewisias, and the
Exhibition Room with orchids and
bromeliads (see pp30–31).

& Witte Museum

This excellent museum has
many special exhibits such as
Texas Wild, featuring the ecology
of Texas, and Ancient Texans,
presenting the life of Natives along
the Pecos River over 4,000 years
ago. Popular with children is the
HEB Science Treehouse, with its
outstanding science exhibits. Air
Power and Bernouli’s Bench Snake ride at Six Flags Fiesta Texas

76
 A Drive to the Sights
Along Broadway
Morning
Start your day at the San

Around
Antonio Zoo at 9am when
the animals are active, and

ou d Town
before the crowds arrive.
After about two hours, leave
The grand staircase, Sunset Station the zoo and get on to N St.
Mary’s. Turn left on E
explosive performance. d Map E2 Mulberry to Broadway and

o
• 17000 I-10 W at Loop 1604 • 210-697- turn left again. Turn right
on Funston and turn left
5050 • Open late May–mid-Aug 10am
into the San Antonio
daily, Mar–Mayy & mid-Aug–Octt Sat & Sun Botanical Garden. Enjoy

– Beyond
only, closed Nov–Feb • Adm • www. the beautiful flower gardens
sixflags.com and stunning conservatory
for an hour or two, and then

eyo d Downtown
have a relaxed lunch at the
( Splashtown
This 20-acre waterpark offers
fabulous Carriage House
Kitchen (see p57).
more than 50 attractions for all age
groups as well as the area’s largest After Lunch
wave pool. The rides vary from Turn right out of the

o
parking lot and drive to
white-knuckled tube rides to lazy
Broadway and turn right.
river spills. The seven-story Lone Drive north on Broadway
Star Lunge leaves you screaming to the Witte Museum, o
down the length of two football turn left and park. Take an
fields. There are also Sunday hour to see the HEB
Science Treehouse and the
concerts and Dive-In Movies on
interesting exhibits here.
Friday evenings. d Map H5 • 210-227-
Sa
San Antonio

Next door is the Texas

1400 • Open mid Apr–early Sep & late Pioneers, Trail Drivers
May–mid Aug daily, open at 11am closing and Rangers Museum
times vary • Adm (see p33). Continue
heading north along
Broadway and branch off
) Sunset Station
o o

to the right at Austin Hwy,

Built in 1902, and housed in then turn left on to New
the former Southern Pacific Depot, Braunfels and immediately
this complex has indoor and turn right into the parking
lot of the McNay Art
outdoor music venues and
Museum (see p18). Enjoy
restaurants. Restored in 1999, the the museum exhibits, relax
station’s fabulous 19th-century in the courtyard, and see
architecture includes a huge rose the sculpture in the
window, wood dance floor, and grounds. Return to
Broadway and continue
grand staircase. The surrounding
north to E Basse and turn
area was a thriving African- left, driving past the
American community in the first popular Quarry Golf Club.
half of the 1900s, and famous Turn right into the Alamo
entertainers including Ella Quarry Market (see p78)
to browse and shop.
Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong
Canyon Café (see p79)
have performed here. During serves Southwest-style
World War II, the depot was a hub food and is a great place
for military personnel. d Map Q5 for a snack or dinner.
• 210-474-7640 • www.sunset-station.com

Pi k up
Pick p the
th Sunset
S t St
Station
ti Historic
Hi t i Walking
W lki g Tour
T brochure
b h from
f the
th 77
kioskk on th
ki the plaza.
plaza
l
 San Antonio
o o

Left Sheplers Western Wear Center Merchandise at Artisans Alley Right Tanger Outlet Center

Places to Shop
! Bussey’s Flea Market
This sprawling flea market % North Star Mall
This high-fashion mall offers
has about 500 vendors selling shoppers about 200 specialty
Sa

antiques, crafts, jewelry, and stores under one roof. d Map F3

local produce. Open Saturday • 7400 San Pedro • 210-342-2325
eyo d Downtown

and Sunday. d Map B2 • 18738

^ Crossroads of San Antonio

o

I-35 N, New Braunfels • 210-651-6830

This indoor mall has a movie

@ Alamo Quarry Market

Housed in a former quarry,
theater and 60 stores, including
Super Target, Burlington Coat
o

these trendy stores include the Factory, Stein Mart, and Hobby
Whole Earth Provision Company Lobby. d Map F4 • 4522 Fredericksburg
– Beyond

and the fabulous Lucchese Boot Rd • 210-735-9137

Company for Western wear. d Map
G4 • 255 E Basse Rd • 210-824-8885
& Center for Antiques
Over 100 antique dealers

£ Artisans Alley
An array of exclusive shops
display knick-knacks, fine art,
furniture, kitchenware, clocks,
and boutiques offers a selection and china. d Map G3 • 8505 Broadway
ou d Town

of fine jewelry, clothing, art, and • 210-804-6300

home decor items. Stop by the
o

Hacienda Gallery for turquoise

and silver jewelry. d Map F2 * Los Patios
An eclectic selection of
Around

• Hacienda Gallery • 210-404-1470 casual and elegant clothing, fine

jewelry, leather, and garden art

$ The Shops at La Cantera

San Antonio’s newest mall
is found here. d Map G4 • 2015 NE
Loop 410 • 210-655-6171
offers 150 stores in a village-like
setting. Major retailers include
Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, and ( Prime Outlets and Tanger
Outlet Center
Dillard’s. d Map E2 • 15900 La Cantera Look for leading stores such as
Pkwy • 210-582-6255 Neiman Marcus Last Call
Clearance Center or Salvatore
Ferragamo Company Store at
these two giant factory outlet
malls in San Marcos. d Map B2

) Sheplers Western Wear

The best place to find a huge
selection of Western wear, from
boots and hats to housewares.
d Map E4 • 6201 NW Loop 410
Prime Outlet mall, San Marcos • 210-681-8230

78 M t shops
Most h open att 10am
10 and
d close
l att 9pm
9 Mon–Fri.
M
Mon
Mon–Fri
F
Fri.
i Timings
Ti i
vary
y on the weekends
weekends.
 Around
Interior of Massimo restaurant

ou d Town
Places to Eat
! Massimo
The gnocchi and risotto are
popular blackened fish tacos.
d Map G4 • Alamo Quarry Shopping

o
very popular dishes at this top- Center • 210-821-3738 • $$$
rated Italian restaurant, which
also offers an impressive Italian
& L’Etoile

– Beyond
wine list. d Map G4 • 1896 This fine restaurant serves
Nacogdoches Rd • 210-342-8556 • $$$$ contemporary French cuisine in a
casual atmosphere. The rack of

eyo d Downtown
@ Joseph’s Storehouse
This delightful eatery serves
lamb, escargot, and Norwegian
salmon are all excellent. d Map G4
fresh food and bakery items, • 6106 Broadway • 210-826-4551 • $$$$
made from whole-grain and
natural ingredients (see p57).
* Stockyards Café

o
The oldest continuously

£ Demo’s
The souvlakii and spanakopita
operating café in Texas offers
hearty fare, including steaks, o
are highly recommended. There ribs, and fried catfish. d Map B2
is dancing on the first Saturday • 1716 S San Marcos • 210-271-9471 • $$
of the month when a Greek band
plays. d Map G5 • 2501 N St. Mary’s St
( Picante Grill
Sa
San Antonio

• 210-732-7777 • $$ This popular place serves old

Mexican favorites, as well as

$ One of San Antonio’s finest

Bolo’s Rotisserie Grill Tex-Mex, Latin American, and
Caribbean cuisine. d Map G4
restaurants, Bolo’s serves • 3810 Broadway • 210-822-3797 • $$
o o

acclaimed Hill Country cuisine

with French touches. Select from
over 20 fine wines available by the ) Frederick’s
A delightful combination of
glass. d Map F4 • 9821 Colonnade Blvd French and Asian cuisine is on
• 210-691-8888 • $$$$ offer, including delicious baked
bass and crab salad. d Map G4

% Fire Bowl Café

Fresh soups, salads, savory
• 7701 Broadway • 210-828-9050 • $$$$

noodle bowls, and stir-fry

entrées are the big draw here.
d Map G4 • 255 E Basse Rd, Alamo
Quarry Market • 210-829-0887 • $$

^ Canyon Café
Housed in an attractively
remodeled old quarry building,
this café serves creative salads
and Tex-Mex entrées. Try the L’Etoile restaurant

U l
Unless otherwise
h i stated,
stated
d all
ll restaurants are open
p daily,
d
daily
ily accept
p 79
credit
dit cards,
cards
d andd serve vegetarian
t i didishes.
dishes
h
 – Hill Country
Cou y

Left Historic Gruene Hall Right Vintage car collection, LBJ Ranch

Hill Country
T EXAS HILL COUNTRY IS RENOWNED for its scenic beauty, charming small
towns, and the springtime profusion of wildflowers. The rock-strewn hills
are high enough to offer relief from the hot Texan summers, and the
sparkling clear rivers make tubing down a cool stream a favorite activity. In
April, bluebonnets and other wildflowers blanket the fields in shades of blue,
ou d Town

red, and gold. Many of the small towns retain and celebrate their early
o

heritage: New Braunfels, Fredericksburg, and Boerne were settled by German

immigrants, Castroville pioneers came from Alsace in France, and Bandera is
Around

the center of ranch and cowboy lore. Hill Country is a favorite Texan getaway
spot, offering dude ranches,
quaint inns, B&Bs in
picturesque towns, and
large secluded resorts with
comfortable amenities.
Scenic roads curve around
hills and cross streams as
they lead to fine wineries,
underground caverns, and
state parks. Bluebonnets in full bloom

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80 Th S
The Sauer-Beckmann
Sauer BBeckmann
k Living
Li i History
Hi t Farm
F att th
the LBJ St
State
t Hi
Historic
t i
Park depicts
p life on a German Hill Country
y farm
farm.
! National Museum of the
Pacific War
Housed in the historic Nimitz
Hotel, this museum traces US
military activities in the South

Around
Pacific during World War II. Major

ou d Town
exhibits include the hangar deck
of an American aircraft carrier
and a PT boat base. The
Japanese Garden of Peace and
the Memorial Wall honor

o
individuals and military units of Street scene, Bandera
the Pacific Theater. d Map A1
• 340 E Main St, Fredericksburg • 830- bustling when visitors come to raft

– Hill Country
997-4379 • Open 9am–5pm daily • Adm or tube down the river, shop for
• www.nimitz-museum.org antiques, or sample great Texan
wines at The Grapevine (see p86).

@ Bandera The town is on the National

Cou y
The self-proclaimed Register of Historic Places.
“Cowboy Capital of the World” d Map B2 • 830-629-5077 • www.
offers ranches for overnight stays gruenetexas.com
with meals, tours, and horseback
riding. Rodeos are held several
times a week in the summer, $ Gruene Hall
The legendary launchpad
and there are plenty of for notable musicians such as
opportunities to dance the Texas George Strait and Lyle Lovett,
two-step in historic dance halls. Gruene Hall is the oldest
It’s a good place to shop for continually operating dance hall
cowboy clothes and saddles. in Texas. Reputed Texan and
d Map A2 • Bandera Texas Convention national performers continue to
and Visitors Bureau • 800-364-3833 grace the stage of this rustic
• www.banderacowboycapital.com dance hall. Baseball great
Nolan Ryan celebrated his

£ Historic Gruene
Buildings from the late
50th birthday here, and the
dance scene from the 1996
1800s, when cotton was king, film Michael, starring John
have been restored to house Travolta, was filmed here.
charming specialty shops and d Map B2 • 1281 Gruene Rd, New
restaurants. Weekends are Braunfels • 830-606-1281

Souvenir shop, Gruene

81
 buried here in the Johnson
Family Cemetery in 1973. d Map
A1 • Stonewall, LBJ National Historic
Parks at LBJ Ranch • 830-644-2252 • Bus
tours 10am–4pm, self-guided tour 5pm-
– Hill Country
Cou y

dusk • Adm • www.nps.gov/lyjo

& Enchanted Rock State

Natural Area
This rounded dome of pink
granite rock is one of the nation’s
largest batholiths. The giant
cracks on its surface have been
created by the continuous
heating and cooling of the rock,
ou d Town

which continues today. It is

believed that the eerie noises
o

heard from the rock on dark cool

nights are the result of the
Around

cooling process. d Map A1 • 18

miles (29 km) N of Fredericksburg • 915-
247-3903 • Adm • www.tpwd.state.tx.us

* Castroville
One of the most culturally
Museum at the LBJ Ranch fascinating towns in Texas,
Castroville was settled in 1844.

% Schlitterbahn Water Park

This popular waterpark has
Frenchman Henri Castro was
contracted by the Republic of
wet and wild rides for every age Texas to bring European settlers
group. There are three uphill into Texas, and brought in
water coasters, nine tube chutes, pioneers from Alsace in France.
and 17 water slides, as well as The historic town still has more
the Boogie Bahn body-boarding than 50 original Alsatian-style
ride. The six-story Master Blaster buildings housing antique shops,
uphill water coaster ride has bakeries, and restaurants. The
often been voted America’s Best historic Landmark Inn, with its
Waterpark Ride. d Map B2 • 381 E
Austin St, New Braunfels • 830-625-2351
• Open May–mid Sep (call for timings)
• Adm • www.schlitterbahn.com

^ LBJ State and National

Historic Parks
The 36th president, Lyndon
Baines Johnson, was born here
in 1908 and his former residence
and ranch are now a National
Historical Park. There are daily
bus tours of the Texas White
House, that provide an in-depth
look at the ranch. LBJ was Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

82 For details
F d t il on Texas
T Hill Country
C t Wineries,
Wineries
Wi i call
ll 866-621-9463.
866-621-9463
866 621 9463.
9463
 A Walk Down Main
Street Fredericksburg
Morning
Start at historic Nimitz

Around
Hotel (328 E Main St)
which hosted stagecoach

ou d Town
travelers in the 1860s.
Head west along the wide
Art display, Museum of Western Art Main Street. The small
building at 242 E Main St,
small museum, is a good place originally the White

o
to begin exploring the town. Elephant Saloon, was a
“gentleman’s resort” in
d Map A22 • 802 London Stt • 830-538-
1888. Today, it’s one of the
3142 • www.castroville.com • Landmark many shops and historical

– Hill Country
Inn State Historic Site: 830-931-2133 buildings that line the
street. At 115 W Main St,
explore the majestic Old
( Museum of Western Art
Originally featuring only the Gillespie County
Courthouse, built in 1882.

Cou y
works of contemporary Cowboy Across the street is the
Artists of America, the museum Marktplatz, the venue for
has expanded to include a wide the Oktoberfest (see p65)
variety of 20th-century Western celebrations. Explore the
exhibits in the octagonal-
art. Rotating exhibits focus
shaped Vereins Kirche
on the legends, romance, and (see p87), one of the first
reality of historic and present-day public buildings built in this
cowboys, settlers, and Native German town. The west
Americans. The museum also end of Main Street offers a
selection of shops and
maintains a Western art and
boutiques for browsing.
history library. A children’s gallery Stop at one of the
features an interactive Journey bakeries, or grab a lunch at
West with hands-on activities Bejas Grill (209 E Main St)
and even a Go West wagon to which serves salads and
Southwestern entrées.
ride in (see p41).
Afternoon
) Captain Charles Scheiner
Hill Country Museum Two of the most historic
buildings in Fredericksburg,
lived in this mansion built the Rudolph Itz Saloon and
between 1879 and 1896. Home, are located at 320
W Main St. Spend at least
Scheiner, a Texas Ranger at 16, an hour at the Pioneer
later became a banker and Museum, (309 W Main St)
philanthropist. The two-story with its fine collection of
intricately carved exterior has old homes, stores, and
graceful arches, curved porches, galleries. Of special
interest is The Weber
and twin towers. The house also House, built in 1904, an
has a parquet floor made of 10 excellent example of the
different hardwoods, and original “Sunday houses” built as
pocket doors, a replica of those at weekend townhouses by
Thomas Jefferson’s home in rural German settlers.
Nearby, is Cuvee Wine
Virginia. d Map A2 • 226 Earl Garrett St, Market & Bistro (see p85),
Kerrville • 830-896-8633 • Open 10am– a delightful place for a glass
4:30 pm Mon–Sat • Adm • www. of wine, snack, or full meal.
kerrdowntown.com/hillcountrymuseum/

83
 – Hill Country
Cou y

Left Wildseed Farms Center LBJ National Park Right Wildflowers, San Antonio Botanical Garden

Places to See Wildflowers

! Wildseed Farms
Springtime visitors are more ^ Willow City Loop
Located between
than likely to see Texas blue- Fredericksburg and Llano off
bonnets, red corn poppies, Hwy 16, this 16-mile (26-km)
phlox, and a gorgeous array of loop drive through unfenced
other flowers at the USA’s ranch land offers spectacular
ou d Town

largest working wildflower farm. spring wildflowers, canyon

d Map A1 • 100 Legacy Dr • 800-848- views, and wildlife. d Map A1
o

0078 • Open 9:30am–6pm daily

& Devils Backbone,

Around

@ Lady Bird Johnson

Wildflower Center
Wimberley to Blanco
One of the most scenic drives in
The best year-round place to spot Texas winds for 24 miles (39 km)
and gather information about along Hwy 32 offering stunning
wildflowers. The spring Hill Country vistas and fields of
wildflower displays present a bluebonnets in April. d Map B1
rainbow of colors (see p92).

£ San Antonio Botanical * Riverside Nature Center

A lovely old farm along the
Garden sparkling Guadalupe River has
Walk through fields of spring been transformed into an urban
blooms in the Hill Country wildflower and native plant
section of the Texas Native area. sanctuary. Walking trails meander
Fall colors are some of the best through fields of vividly-hued
in the state (see pp30–31). wildflowers and local flora and
fauna. d Map A2 • 150 Francisco

$ Fredericksburg
Enchanted Rock
to Lemos, Kerrville • 830-257-4837

This breathtaking route is a joy

all year round, with masses of ( LBJ National Park at
LBJ Ranch
wildflowers in spring and great An incredible profusion of
views the rest of the year. The colorful flowers fills the park
hour-long drive follows Hwy 965 in spring (see p82).
from Fredericksburg past
Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
(see p82) to Hwy 16. d Map A1 ) Boerne Walk
Cibolo Wilderness Trail in
Boerne City Park offers walking

% This 85-mile (137-km) loop

Bandera Scenic Drive trails that wind through natural
habitats, including prairie and
offers majestic vistas as the road marshlands. The trails lead past
twists up and around the hills, native plants and wildflowers of
crossing the Medina and Sabinal the Hill Country. d Map A2 • Boerne
Rivers many times. d Map A2 Chamber • 830-249-8000

84 Wild Ab
Aboutt T
Texas Wildfl
Wildflowers offers
ff online
li iinformation
f ti on
wildflower sightings
sightings.
g g Log g on to http://lnstar
http://lnstar.com/wildflowers
p com/wildflowers
e
 Around
Interior, Huisache Grill

ou d Town
Places to Eat
! The Limestone Grill
Located in the historic Ye ^ Cuvee
Bistro
Wine Market and

o
Kendall Inn, this fine dining This award-winning restaurant
restaurant serves New American serves up contemporary
cuisine with Southwestern, American cuisine made from

– Hill Country
Cajun, and European influences. fresh local ingredients. d Map A1
The wine list includes rare wines • 342 W Main St, Fredericksburg • 830-
and vintages. d Map A2 • 128 W 990-1600 • Closed Mon • $$$$
Blanco Rd, Boerne • 830-249-2138 • $$$

& Altdorf

Cou y
Biergarten

@ Enjoy good Texan and Tex-

OST Restaurant Housed in a historic lime-
stone building on Main Street,
Mex country cooking at this the Altdorf’s menu ranges from
restaurant named after the Old sausage and schnitzell to Tex-Mex
Spanish Trail. The decor honors and burgers. A large selection of
Western movie stars. d Map A2 beers is available. d Map A1
• Bandera • 830-796-3836 • $ • Fredericksburg • 830-997-7865 • $$

£ Rails – Café at the Depot

One of Hill Country’s finest * New Braunfels
Smokehouse
restaurants serves light lunches This bustling restaurant offers a
and dinners with daily entrée variety of hickory-smoked meats.
specials. Accompaniments They serve breakfast, lunch, and
include delectable desserts. dinner with Shiner beer on tap.
d Map A2 • 615 Schreiner St, Kerrville d Map B2 • 140 Hwy 46 S, New
• 830-257-3877 • Closed Sun • $$ Braunfels • 830-625-2416 • $$

$ Francisco’s
This cozy restaurant is a ( Huisache Grill
Classic and upscale
very popular lunch spot. Dinner American cuisine with a choice
is served only on weekends. of affordable wine and beer is on
d Map A2 • 201 Earl Garrett St, Kerrville offer at this modern restaurant.
• 830-257-2995 • Closed Sun • $$ d Map B2 • 303 W San Antonio St, New
Braunfels • 830-620-9001 • $$$

% Friedhelm’s Bavarian Inn

Best known for its platters
) Centerpoint Station
of sauerbraten and schnitzel This Texan hamburger eatery
served with dumplings, is tucked away in an antique
gingersnap gravy, and shop. Soups, salads, baked
sauerkraut. The beer list includes potatoes, and sandwiches, along
German imports. d Map A1 with great ice cream shakes are
• 905 W Main St, Fredericksburg • 830- also available here. d Map B2
997-6300 • Closed Mon • $$ • 3946 IH-35 S • 512-392-1103 • $

U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated,
stated
t t d all
ll restaurants
t t are open daily,
d
daily
il acceptt 85
credit cards
cards,, and serve vegetarian
g dishes
dishes.
 – Hill Country
Cou y

Period items at Forke’s Store, Conservation Plaza

New Braunfels
! Sophienburg
and Archives
Museum
^ Schlitterbahn Water Park
Located on the beautiful
An excellent place to learn about Comal River, this seasonal
the history of New Braunfels and waterpark features 40 fun-filled
its early German settlers. and action-packed rides (see p82).
d Map B2 • 401 W Coll St • 830-629-
ou d Town

1572 • Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat

& Texas Ski Ranch
Water skiing, wake boarding,
o

@ Museum of Texas
Handmade Furniture
motocross, and skate boarding
facilities are on offer here.
Around

This 1859 home has a unique d Map B2 • 6700 I-35 N • 830-627-2843

collection of furniture hand-crafted • Open 10am– 8pm Tue–Thu, 10am–9pm
by early German settlers. d Map B2 Fri–Sat, 10am–6pm Sun
• 1370 Church Hill Dr • 830-629-6504
• Open early Feb–late Nov 1–4pm
* Gruene Hall
One of the best known

£ Conservation Plaza
A village of nine restored mid-
performance halls, local singers
and touring acts stage live
1800s buildings includes a school, shows here (see p81).
barn, and garden with 50 varieties
of antique roses. d Map B2 • 1300
Church Hill Dr • 830-629-2943 • Open ( Snake Farm & Exotic
Animal Park
10am–2:30 pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat & Sun A unique park to see and learn
about native venomous snakes,

$ Lindheimer Home
One of the oldest houses
crocodiles, and other reptiles.
d Map B2 • 5640 Interstate Hwy 35 S
in New Braunfels belonged to New Braunfels • 830-608-9270 • Open
renowned botanist Ferdinand J. 10am–6pm Memorial Day to Labour Day
Lindheimer. It contains memo- • www.txsnakefarm.com
rabilia and a garden filled with
his plant discoveries.
d Map B2 • 491 Comal Ave
5,
9 ) The Grapevine
This charming
(5
52

• 830-629-2943 wine-tasting room is

$

'RUEN
RU NE
'

7
5( (

the perfect place to

67

&

% Landa
52
Park enjoy a glass of wine
1

2
0
0

A recreation park and a plate of cheese

that includes a spring- after shopping.
fed pool, a miniature d Map B2 • 1612 Hunter
train, paddle-boats, Rd, Gruene Historic District
and tubing down the • 830-606-0093 • Open
:$
/1

87
river. d Map B2 $9
( 10am–7pm; summer 10am–
7.
67

/,2
• 110 Golf Course Rd 6( 9pm Mon–Sat • www.
85
63

• 830-608-2160 grapevineingruene.com

86 N
New Braunfels
B f l Historic
Hi t i WWalking
lki Tour
T Brochure
B h is
i available
il bl att the
th
Chamber of Commerce
Commerce,, 390 S Seguin
g Ave
Ave,, 830
830-625-2385
830-625-2385.
625 2385
 Around
Left National Museum of the Pacific War Center Pioneer Museum Right Eatery at Fredericksburg

ou d Town
Fredericksburg
! National Museum of the
Pacific War ^ LBJ State and National
Historical Parks

o
The museum boasts an impressive Bus tours offer insights into
display of Allied and Japanese air- President Johnson’s working ranch
craft, tanks, and artifacts in use and Texas White House (see p82).

– Hill Country
during the Pacific War (see p81).

@ More than 100 specialty

Main Street & Old Tunnel Wildlife
Management Area
Over a million Mexican free-

Cou y
shops, bakeries, and restaurants tailed bats emerge from an old
are housed in historic buildings. abandoned railroad tunnel, spiral
Attractions include the historic upward, soaring over the Hill
Pioneer Museum. d Map A1 Country to feed on insects.
Rangers offer nightly educational

£ Vereins Kirche Museum

This octagonal structure is a
programs about the bats.
d Map A1 • South of Fredericksburg, Old
replica of the 1847 Society Hall Santonio Rd • 866-978-2287 • Open year-
used as a church, for se to sunset; bat viewing
school. Exhibits tell t www.tpwd.state.tx.us
of the German settle
d Map A1 • Center of
Markplatz, 100 W Main St * Wildseed
Farms
• 830-997-7832 • Open A chance to walk
10am–4pm Mon–Sat, through wildflower
1–4pm Sun fields and browse
over 90 types of

$ Pioneer
Museum Complex
Vereins Kirche Museum seed (see p84).

This complex of historic buildings

includes the 1849 eight-room, ( Wineries
Nearby wineries offer a broad
furnished Henry Kammlah home selection of Texan wines. d Map A1
and an old Methodist Church. • www.texaswinetrail.com
d Map A1 • 309 W Main St • 830-990-
8441 • Open 10am– 5pm Mon–Sat,
1–5pm Sun ) Fredericksburg Herb Farm
Stroll through the
well-tended herb gardens filled

% One of the first frontier army

Fort Martin Scott with flowering, culinary, and
ornamental herbs. The gift shop
posts in Texas. Historical displays offers herbal products. d Map A1
reveal fascinating details about • 407 Whitney • 830-997-8615 • Open
various aspects of the Wild West. 9:30am–5pm Mon–Thu, 9am–9pm Fri
d Map A1 •1606 E Main St • 830-997- & Sat, noon–4pm Sun • www.
9895 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun fredericksburgherbfarm.com

F d i k b
Fredericksburg Historic
Hi t i Walking
W lki Tour
T Brochure
B h is
i available
il bl att the
th
Visitor Information Center
Center,, 302 E Austin,
Austin, 830-997-6523.
830-997-6523
830 997 6523
Around Town – Austin

Left Bullock Texas State History Museum Right Horse and carriage on East 6th Street

Austin

G LEAMING MODERN GLASS AND STEEL SKYSCRAPERS and the stately red
granite dome of the largest state capitol building in the US dominate the
skyline of downtown Austin. Vibrant and cosmopolitan, the city is best known
for the diverse live music scene found along 6th Street and in the Warehouse
District. Austin is also well-known for its high-tech industry and the sprawling
University of Texas, with the fabulous Blanton Art Museum and LBJ Library.
The city is laid-back, unpretentious, and, at times, even quirky. An active
young population inhabits Austin – you will find
them biking and jogging in the parks and green
spaces along the river and the creek downtown.

Downtown Austin Austin skyline and Town Lake

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90 Previous
P i pages: T
Texas St
State
t CCapitol
it l b
building
building,
ildi A
Austin
ti
 features, a special
effects show, and
Austin’s only IMAX
theater, reveal the
history of Texas.

Around
Visitors are greeted

ou d Town
by a gigantic 35-ft
(10.7-m) bronze Lone
Star sculpture at the
entrance and the floor
of the rotunda features

o
an intricate depiction
Dome interior, Texas State Capitol of a campfire scene.
d Map T2 • 1800 N Congress Ave

– Austin
State Capitol • 512-936-8746 • Open 9am–6pm
The grandeur of the Capitol Mon–Sat; noon–6pm Sun • Adm • www.
makes it widely recognized as thestoryoftexas.com

us
one of the country’s finest
capitol buildings. Views of its red
granite dome, visible throughout $Governor’s Mansion
This majestic brick mansion,
much of the city, are protected which has served as the official
from future obstruction by state state residence of Texas gover-
law. Built in 1888, the building nors since 1856, is considered
was enlarged in 1993 by a huge the most historic home in Texas.
underground Capitol Extension, It is also the oldest continuously
followed by a comprehensive occupied executive mansion
restoration of the original west of the Mississippi River.
building in 1995. d Map T2 • 11th The Sam Houston Bedroom,
& Congress St • 512-463-0063 • Open named after its former occupant,
7am–10pm Mon–Fri; 9am–8pm Sat & Sun displays a beautiful four-poster
• www.tspb.state.tx.us mahogany bed and other
memorabilia from his life.

@ Capitol Complex
Visitors Center
d Map T2 • 1010 Colorado St • 512-463-
5516 • Open 10am–noon Mon–Thu
The oldest state office building in • Reservations mandatory; must be made
Texas, built in 1857, was once the at least one business day in advance
headquarters of the General Land • www.governor.state.tx.us/mansion
Office. Today, its exhibits tell
stories of Texas, the Capitol, and
the Land Office. Short-story
author, William Sydney Porter (see
p39), worked here and the spiral
staircase that appears in Murder
at the Land Office e can be seen
here. d Map T2 • 112 E 11th St • 512-
305-8400 • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat;
noon–5pm Sun • www.tspb.state.tx.us

£ Bob Bullock Texas State

History Museum
Three floors of exhibits, including
dramatic murals, interactive

F
Free guided
id d walking
lki ttours off Austin
A ti are available
il bl M
Mar
Mar–Nov.
Mar–Nov
N
Nov. C
Call
ll 91
512-478-0098
512 478 0098 or log
g on to www
www.austintexas.org
austintexas
e org
g
 of LBJ, who founded it in 1982
with actress Helen Hayes. Though
open year-round, spring is the
peak season, when most of the
500 species of plants are in
Around Town – Austin

bloom. Over the years, the center

has become one of the leading
research institutions in the
country. d Map B1 • 4801 La Crosse
Ave • 512-292-4100 • Open 9am–5:30pm
Tue–Sat;; noon–5:30pm Sun; mid-Mar–Apr
9am–5.30pm daily • www.wildflower.org

& East 6th Street

Once known as Pecan
Street, East 6th Street is the
center of Austin’s celebrated live
music scene. On weekends the
street closes to traffic, creating
Signage along East 6th Street an outdoor pedestrian mall that
includes more than 70 nightclubs

% LBJ Library and Museum

This museum and library
offering a dazzling array of live
entertainment from jazz and rock
offers insights into the turbulent to rhythm and blues. Some of
life and political career of the the legendary venues include
36th president, Lyndon Baines Maggie Mae’s, Emo’s (see p94),
Johnson. Exhibits ranging from and Esther’s Follies comedy club
his youth to his inauguration (see p94). d Map U3
as president following the
assassination of President John
F. Kennedy, to his Great Society * Blanton Museum of Art
The Blanton’s collection of
program and his retirement at over 17,000 works spans the art
his ranch (see p82) are displayed history of Western civilization.
here. Do not miss the 7/8 scale Among the distinguished exhibits
replica of his Oval Office, his on view are the Latin American
1968 presidential limousine, and Art section, the Suida-Manning
a life-size animatronic version of Collection of French and Italian
LBJ telling some of his favorite Renaissance and Baroque art,
stories. d Map T1 • 23 porary American
St • 512-721-0200 • Open ng the
• www.lbjlib.utexas.edu al Mari and
s Michener

^ Lady Bird
Johnson
llection. d Map T1
Congress Ave &
Wildflower Center rtin Luther King Blvd,
Dedicated to the versity of Texas at
preservation of Nort stin • 512-471-7324
America’s native • Open 10am–5pm
plants and wild- Tue, Wed, Fri, &
flowers, this Sat; 10am–8pm Thu;
center was the vision of Sculpture at Blanton 1–5pm Sun • www.
Lady Bird Johnson, wife Museum of Art blantonmuseum.org

92 Pi k up a copy off the

Pick th weekly
kl AAustin i l or the
ti Chronicle
Ch th Austin
A ti
American
e Statesman
Statesman’s
e e for live music options.
s Xlent options
p
( Zilker Park Barton Springs
Pool and Botanical
A Walk Down
Congress Street
Gardens
A variety of recreational facilities Morning
such as a golf course, athletic Start at the Blanton

Around
fields, hiking trails, the spring-fed Museum of Art and enjoy
the exhibits before walking

ou d Town
Barton Springs Pool, and the
south down Congress St
enchanting Zilker Botanical
to the Bob Bullock Texas
Garden, make this Austin’s most State History Museum
loved park. Also, from April (see p91). The Story of
through August the park’s Texas café on the second

o
amphitheater hosts concerts floor is great for soups
and sandwiches.
including performances by the
Austin Symphony, Austin Civic Afternoon

– Austin
Orchestra, and Shakespeare in Continue down Congress
the Park. d Map R2 • 2100 Barton St to the State Capitol
(see p91) and take the 45-
Springs Rd • 512-472-4914

us
minute guided tour. Then
• www.ci.austin.tx.us/zilker continue south to 11th St
and turn left to explore the
Capitol Complex Visitors
Center (see p91). Return
to Congress St and go
farther south. The brick
and limestone Old Bakery
and Emporium (at 1006
Congress), built in 1876,
now houses a gift shop
and lunch-time sandwich
shop. The Jacob Larmour
Block (906–920 Congress)
Bat Sculpture, Congress Avenue Bridge was built in 1876 in the
Bat Colony Italianate style. Little City,
(116 Congress), is a
favorite coffeehouse. At
) Congress Avenue Bridge
Bat Colony
the intersection of
Congress and 9th St, look
Crowds gather at sunset from west (right) to see one of
April through October to watch the Moonlight Towers
the world’s largest urban bat (see p91). At 823
Congress is the
colony soar over Austin skies, contemporary Austin
as they emerge from the bridge Museum of Art. The
each night to feed on airborne Paramount Theater, (713
insects. These Mexican free- Congress), is a movie and
tailed bats first took up resi- performing arts venue. The
Arthouse at Jones Center,
dence under Congress Avenue (700 Congress), is a
Bridge when it was recon- cutting-edge performing
structed in 1980 and return every arts venue. Turn left on to
spring to nest. Favorite viewing East 6th St, and Austin’s
spots include the Town Lake, live music and historic
district begins at Brazos
which even offers bat-watching St. Walk through the lobby
cruises, and the Austin of the legendary Driskill
American-Stateman’s bat obser- Hotel (see p119) on the
vation area at 305 S Congress corner of 6th and Brazos.
Avenue. d Map T3 • Austin American- Enjoy a meal at the hotel’s
café and bakery.
Stateman’s Bat Hot Line: 512-416-5700

Dill a ffree b
Dillo,
Dillo bus andd trolley
ll y system
system,
y iis available
il bl ffor getting
g i g around
d 93
the central
th t l city
it . Check
Ch k www.capmetro.org
www capmetro t org
Around Town – Austin

Left Maggie Mae’s Center Bourbon Rocks Right 311 Club

Live Music Venues

! Antone’s
Home of the blues for more & LaAn Zona Rosa
eclectic venue that plays
than a quarter of a century, everything from blues and jazz to
Antone’s is the place to hear rock and Latin music. Recent
established musicians as well as shows included Joss Stone and
newcomers. d Map T2 • 213 W 5th Patti Smith. d Map S2 • 612 W 4th St
St • 512-320-8424 • Adm • 512-472-2293 • Adm

@ Bourbon Rocks
Reminiscent of Bourbon * Maggie Mae’s
For over two decades
Street in New Orleans, this Maggie Mae’s has hosted
warehouse-style club brings a original music artistes in Austin.
new element to 6th Street. This is the place to hear the latest
d Map T2 • 508 E 6th St • 512-236-1707 rock ‘n’ roll. d Map T2 • 512 Trinity St
• 512-478-8541 • Adm

£ This famous Texan honky-

Broken Spoke

( Saxon Pub
tonk got its start in 1964 when One of Austin’s favorite
Bob Wills and the Texas Playboys listening rooms features the
graced its stage. Traditional best singer-songwriters in town.
country music is still the main Famous musicians are known to
draw here. d Map R3 • 3201 S Lamar drop by when in the city.
Blvd • 512-442-6189 • Adm d Map S3 • 1320 S Lamar Blvd • 512-
448-2552 • Adm

$ A 1950s-style Austin classic, ) 311 Club

Continental Club

that features some of the best With live blues seven nights
rockabilly, country, and swing a week, this revered bar still
music. d Map T3 • 1315 S Congress brings in some of the greatest
Ave • 512-441-2444 • Adm names on the rhythm and blues
circuit. d Map T2 • 311 E 6th St

% Elephant Room
Traditional jazz music
• 512-477-1630 • Adm

performed by local musicians as 

6
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67 5 (

( 
02

7+
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+6
7

^ Emo’s
67
( 7
+ 67
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67 5
8(

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67 5

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/( <

67
8/'

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6 
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• 603 Red River St • 512-477-3667

94 E th ’s Follies
Esther’s
Esther F lli on 525 E 6th St (512
(512-320-055)
320 055) has
h entertained
t t i d for
f
more than 20 yyears with comedy
comedy,
y, p
parodies
parodies,, and magic
g acts
acts.
 Around
Shoreline Grill

ou d Town
Places to Eat
! Driskill Grill
Inside opulent Driskill Hotel, ^ Iron Cactus Grill
Mexican-inspired menu

o
this elegant restaurant offers including steak, pork, and
New American fusion-style seafood. The bar is noted for its
cuisine and a fine wine list. margaritas and tequila. d Map T2

– Austin
d Map T2 • 604 Brazos St • 512-391-7162 • 512-472-9240 • Closed Sun • $$
• Closed Sun & Mon • $$$$

& Katz’s

us
@ A trendy garden café with a
Castle Hill Café A 24-hour New York-style
deli serving great food. Popular
creative New American menu with late night revelers. d Map S2
featuring innovative dishes such • 618 W 6th St • 512-472-2037 • $
as shrimp enchiladas in a
tomatillo-poblano verde sauce.
d Map S2 • 1101 West 5th St • 512-476- * Manuel’s
Sizzling fajitas and grilled
0728 • Closed Sun • $$$ pork tenderloins are among the
Mexican favorites. Jazz brunch

£ Shoreline Grill
Trademark entrées such as
on Sundays. d Map T2 • 310
Congress Ave • 512-472-7555 • $
prime rib and crab cakes, and
award-winning bread pudding
make this a popular lunch and ( Boiling Pot
Spicy Cajun-style boiled
dinner spot. d Map T3 • 98 San seafood served in a casual,
Jacinto Blvd • 512-477-3300 • $$$ family atmosphere. d Map T2
• 700 E 6th St • 512-472-0985 • $

$ Threadgill’s World
Headquarters
) Chuy’s
Enjoy home-style Texan cooking A hip Austin favorite filled
along with a splendid collection with Elvis tributes. Try one of
of Austin music memorabilia at Chuy’s special smoked chicken
this restaurant near the site of enchiladas. d Map S2 • 1728 Barton
the legendary Armadillo World Springs Rd • 512-474-4452 • $
Headquarters. d Map T3 • 301
Riverside Dr • 512-451-9305 • $$ (1
$<

) 
6:

/87 +
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prepared with the freshest

seasonal ingredients. Delectable
entrées include Alaskan halibut 1 '
5 $%

67 5
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67
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An extensive wine list. d Map R1

8/'

*5(

&+,
.,1


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• 1204 W Lynn • 512-477-5584 • $$$

U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated,
stated
t t d all
ll restaurants
t t are open daily,
d
daily
il acceptt
credit cards
cards,, and serve vegetarian
g dishes
dishes.
Around Town – South of San Antonio

Left Corpus Christi Museum of Science & History Right Padre Island National Seashore

South of San Antonio

T HE MODERN CITY OF CORPUS CHRISTI, with its gleaming skyscrapers,
resort hotels, and lovely vistas across the bay, is an ideal getaway for the
entire family. The Texas State Aquarium is one of the best in the country,
while touring the USS Lexington offers a fascinating look at the US Navy’s
famous aircraft carrier. Other sights include the Museum of Science and
History, which displays recreations of the Spanish ships that brought
Christopher Columbus to the New
World, and the Botanical Gardens. The
natural wonders of the Texas Gulf
coast and the barrier islands draw
people all year round. The area is a
birders’ paradise with more than 500
species and some of the country’s best
birding spots. Above all, the subtropical
climate, sandy beaches, sunshine-filled
days, and cooling breezes make this a
perfect outdoor destination for fishing,
World War II aircraft carrier, USS Lexington cruising, and wind-surfing.
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96
 Around
ou d Town
Saddle shop, King Ranch Museum

o
! King Ranch, King Ranch
Visitor Center £ Aransas National
Wildlife Refuge
Rio Grande riverboat captain, Best known for its famous winter

– Sou
Richard King, purchased land in resident, the majestic whooping
1853 to set up a ranch here. crane, this coastal wildlife refuge

South of
More land was acquired over the lies along a major bird-migration
years and today this working route. More than 350 species
ranch is one of the nation’s arrive here every winter, making
largest. It has 2,000 miles (3,219 this a paradise for bird-watchers

o Sa
km) of fences, 60,000 head of and naturalists (see p47).
cattle, cowboys that ride pick-up

San Antonio
trucks as well as horses, and
also offers several fascinating $ Texas Maritime Museum
The Gulf coast is showcased
tours. d Map B4 • Hwy 141 West, through interesting exhibits in this
Kingsville • 361-592-8055 • Open 9am– two-story museum with a
4pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun • www. lighthouse observation deck.
o o
king-ranch.com Salvage from shipwrecks along
the coast include coins from a

@ King Ranch Museum and

Saddle Shop
1535 Spanish treasure ship and
navigation tools from the 1686
This museum showcases the French ship, La Belle. Other
history of King Ranch. A highlight exhibits focus on sports fishing,
is an excellent series of coastal settlements, and off-
photographs of life on the ranch shore oil exploration. d Map C4
by award-winning photographer • 1202 Navigation Circle, Rockport
Toni Frissell. Other exhibits • 361-729-6644 • Open 10am–4pm
include saddles from around the Tue–Sat, 1–4pm Sun • Adm • www.
world, vintage cars, and antique texasmaritimemuseum.org
carriages. Also visit the nearby
King Ranch Saddle Shop,
established in the mid-1800s, for
top-notch leather goods. Though
the shop has expanded over the
years, it still produces saddles
that are functional and elegant.
d Map B4 • King Ranch Museum: 405 M
6th St, Kingsville; 361-595-1881; open
10am–4pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun • King
Ranch Saddle Shop: 201 E Kleberg Ave,
Kingsville; 800-282-5464; open 10am–6pm
Mon–Sat; www.krsaddleshop.com Whooping crane, Aransas Wildlife Refuge

F more iinformation
For f ti on ttours and d admission
d i i charges,
charges
h call
ll Ki
King 97
Ranch,, King
Ranch g Ranch Visitor Center
Center.
 ^ USS Lexington
Now a floating naval
museum, this World
War II aircraft carrier,
called “The Blue Ghost”
Around Town – South of San Antonio

by the Japanese,
participated in major
Pacific operations.
Special museum
exhibits display artifacts
from each era of the
Corpus Christi Museum of Science and History carrier’s eventful 40-
year history (see p41).

% Texas State Aquarium

Corpus Christi
& Corpus Christi Museum of
One of the nation’s top-rated Science and History
aquariums reveals the amazing This museum presents the
underwater world of the Gulf history of the Gulf Coast through
of Mexico and the Caribbean. exhibits on the region’s marine,
Fascinating exhibits and human, and natural history. On
touch pools display more than view are treasures from a convoy
4,000 marine animals. Exhibits of Spanish ships wrecked in 1554,
offer touch tanks, views of the Western Hemisphere’s oldest
schooling fish, sea turtles, and scientifically excavated shipwreck.
intriguing creatures such as the Reproductions of Columbus’ ships,
porcupine fish with human-size built by the Spanish government to
eyes that live at more than commemorate the 500th
seven fathoms deep. The huge anniversary of the discovery of the
Island of Steel exhibit recreates New World, can be toured daily.
the Gulf of Mexico reef habitat d Map T4 • 1900 N Chaparral St, Corpus
found around a steel oil rig. Christi • 361-826-4650 • Open 10am–5pm
d Map U4 • 2710 N Shoreline Blvd Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun • Adm • www.
• 361-881-1200 • Open 9am–5pm; ccmuseum. com
summer: 9am–6pm • Adm • www.
texasstateaquarium.org
* Padre Island National
Seashore
This stunning natural preserve
and Gulf-side playground is a
beach lover’s dream. Saltwater
fishing is popular year-round,
with surf-casting for red drum,

Fishing, Padre Island National Seashore

98 For more information

F i f ti on bird-watching
bi
bird
d watching
t hi and
d birding
bi di trails
t il see p61.
p61
61
 A Driving Tour of the
Padre Island National
Seashore
Morning:

Around
Start early at Padre Island.

ou d Town
Sign of South Padre Island See the exhibits at the
Visitor Center, then walk
black drum, and sea trout from along Malaquite Beach.
Back on the highway, drive
the sandy shore, or boat-fishing northeast on the Texas
in shallow Laguna Madre for Coastal Birding Trail, TX-

o
flounder. Camping is permitted P22, which becomes Park
along this entire stretch of beach Rd 22/JFK Memorial
(see p47). Causeway. Turn right on
TX-361 and drive north

– Sou
toward Port Aransas for 17

( South Padre Island

South of
miles (28 km). The drive
One of the most popular along Mustang Island,
Texan beach resorts is located at named for wild horses
the southern tip of South Padre brought by the Spanish,
offers splendid views of
Island. Five miles (8 km) of Corpus Christi Bay. Explore

o Sa
beautifully groomed beaches and the Mustang Island State
29 miles (47 km) of wild Gulf Park (see p100). Continue

San Antonio
coast sand beaches offer into town on S Alister St to
spectacular sunsets, excellent Pelican’s Landing (see
p101) for lunch.
sports fishing, wind-surfing, and
exceptional birding. Fall brings Afternoon:
world-class fishing, while winter Continue along N Alister St
o o
attracts bird-watchers. d Map C6 and turn left on W Cotter
• 800-767-2373 • www.sopadre.com Ave. Stop at the Visitors’
Information Center at
421 for information on the
) Museums of Port Isabel
Three museums jointly tell
hot birding spots nearby.
Continue to the ferry
the history of this quaint seaside terminal and cross to the
town. The Point Isabel Light- mainland. Stay on Hwy 361
into Aransas Pass and try a
house and Lighthouse Keepers piece of home-made pie at
Cottage date from 1852 when the the Bakery Café (see p101).
lighthouse was built to guide ships Continue on Hwy 361 to
through the barrier islands. Today, the intersection with Hwy
it’s the only one open to visitors in 181 and turn left toward
Corpus Christi. Just after
Texas. The Treasures of the Gulf you cross the long bridge,
Museum showcases three 1554 exit at Burelson St and turn
Spanish shipwrecks through left under the overpass,
murals, artifacts, and displays. right on Surfside and follow
The Port Isabel Historic Museum the signs to the Texas
State Aquarium. Take an
is housed in the 1899 Champion hour to see the exhibits,
Building and offers two floors of and then drive north on
exhibits, including a collection of Shoreline for two blocks to
Mexican artifacts from the relive World War II Pacific
Mexican War of 1846–48. d Map C6 War history aboard the USS
Lexington. Dine at Landry’s
• 317 E Railroad Ave • 956-943-7602 Seafood (see p101) in
• Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat • Adm Corpus Christi.
• www.portisabelmuseums.com

AT
Texas fi
fishing
hi lilicense can be
b purchased
h d att th
the M
Malaquite
l it Vi
Visitor
it
Center. For details visit www
Center www.nps.gov/pais
nps
p ggov/pais
p or call 361
361-949-8068.
361-949-8068
949 8068
Around Town – South of San Antonio

Left USS Lexington Center Texas State Aquarium Right Gugenheim House, Heritage Park

Corpus Christi
! Texas State Aquarium
Fascinating, interactive
hibiscus, roses, and tropical
plumeria nearly all year. d Map C4
exhibits of marine life found in • 8545 S Staples • 361-852-2100 • Open
the Gulf of Mexico and the 9am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.
Caribbean (see p98). ccbotanicalgardens.org

@ USS Lexington
This famous World War II & Downtown Waterfront
and Waterfront Cruise
aircraft carrier is docked perma- Green spaces and a two-mile
nently on the southern tip of (3-km) waterfront walkway open
Corpus Christi Beach (see p41). the city to the bay. The adjacent
marina is the departure point for

£ Corpus Christi Museum of

Science and History
fishing and cruise boats. d Map U5

The marine and natural history

exhibits here include artifacts * Art Museum of South
Texas
from the 1554 Spanish galleons Diverse and frequently changing
and reproductions of Columbus’ works by Texan artists. d Map U4
fleet (see p98). • 1902 Shoreline Blvd • 361-825-3500
• Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; 1–5pm Sun

$ Padre Island National

Seashore
• Adm • www.stia.org

The world’s longest barrier island

extends for 113 miles (182 km) ( Centennial House
Built in 1849, this house-
along the magnificent Texas Gulf museum depicts the life of a
Coast (see p47). wealthy Corpus Christi family in
the 1850s. d Map T6 • 411 Upper

% Mustang Island
Exceptional bird-watching and
Broadway • 361-882-8691 • Open 10am–
2pm Thu • www.ccahs.com
fishing draw visitors
to Port Aransas and
the beautiful beaches
% 5 ($ . : $7(5$9(


) Heritage
The ten
Park

of this island. d Map beautifully restored

C4 • 361-749-5919 • www. $PSQVT
$ISJTUJ Victorian houses
#BZ
portaransas.org   (  3 2 5 7  $ 9 (
nestled in this park

 7( 5  67
%5(:6 are an excellent
1 6+25

67

^ Corpus
5 (6 $ & $
Christi   
:
%5 introduction to the
( /, 1

2$
':
Botanical city’s architectural
( % /9 '

$<
67
1 & + $ 3$ 5 5 $ / 6 7

Gardens  : , 1 1( % $ * 267
history. d Map T5
1 8 3 3 ( 5 % 5 2 $ ' : $< 6 7

These gardens, also a / ( 2 3$ 5 ' 6 7

• 1581 N Chaparral • 361-
1 :$

nature preserve, / , 3$ 1 6 7
883-0639 • Docent tours:
7(

bloom with exotic

5 67 5

10:30am Mon, Thu, & Fri

(7 (

orchids, brilliant • Adm

1000
 Around
Water Street Oyster Bar

ou d Town
Places to Eat
! Catfish Charlie’s
A bayou-style seafood place & Bakery Café
Stop by for home-made

o
with Southern favorites such as baked goods and the legendary
fried Mississippi catfish. d Map C4 banana cream pie, or opt for the
• 5830 McArdle Rd • 361-993-0363 • $ hearty daily specials. d Map C4

– Sou
• 434 S Commercial & Port Aransas Hwy,

@ Republic of Texas Aransas Pass • 361-758-3511 • $

South of
Bar & Grill
Fine dining on the 20th floor of
Bayfront Tower. An extensive * Pelican’s Landing
Try your hand at catching
wine list. d Map U5 • 900 N Shoreline some seafood and have it pre-

o Sa
Blvd, Omni Corpus Christi pared the way you like it. d Map
• 361-886-3515 • $$$$ C4 • 337 N Alister St, Port

San Antonio
ransas • 361-749-6405 • $$

£ Landry’s
Seafood
( Sea Ranch
Enjoy superbly One of the best
prepared seafood on places for spect-
o o
a floating waterside acular sunsets and
houseboat. d Map U5 pan-grilled red
• 600 N Shoreline Blvd Sign for Snoopy’s Pier snapper, the house
• 361-882-6666 • $$ specialty. d Map C6 • 1
Padre Blvd, Sea Ranch Marina, S Padre

$ A popular local choice for its

Snoopy’s Pier Island • 956-761-1314 • $$

rustic decor, casual patio dining,

and delicious fried shrimp. d Map ) Amberjack’s
and Grill
Bayside Bar

C4 • 13313 S Padre Island Dr • 361-949- Extensive menu which includes

8815 • $$ • No credit cards fresh, seasoned seafood, steaks,
and pasta. d Map C6 • 209 W Amber-

% Water Street Seafood

Company & Oyster Bar
jack, S Padre Island • 956-761-6500 • $$

This is a downtown favorite for

seafood and oysters served with
original in-house sauces. d Map
C4 • 309 N Water St • 361-882-8683 • $$

^ Trout Street Bar & Grill

Upscale yet casual dining
on the Port Aransas boardwalk.
Specials include fresh seafood
and steaks. d Map C4 • 104 W Cotter,
Port Aransas • 361-749-7800 • $$ Water Street Seafood Company

U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated,
stated
t t d all
ll restaurants
t t are open daily,
d
daily
il acceptt 1011
credit cards
cards,, and serve vegetarian
g dishes
dishes.
STREETSMART
STREETSMA RT
Planning
P laannin
ng Your
Your Trip
Trip
p
10
104
04
Getting
G ettin
ng to
to

SAN ANTONIO & AUSTIN’S TOP 10

SSan
an Antonio
Antonio
o & Austin
Austin n
10
105
05
Getting
G ettin
ng Around
Aro
ound
10
106
06
TThings
hin
ngs to
to Avoid
Avoid
d
10
107
07
Budget
B udget Tips
Tip
ps
10
108
08
SSpecial
peciaal Needs
Needs Tips
Tip
ps
10
109
09
SSecurity
ecuritty and
and Health
Healtth
11
110
10
Banking
B ankin
ng and
and
Communications
C ommuniccatio
ons
11
111
11
SShopping
hoppin
ng Tips
Tip
ps
11
112
12
EEating
atin
ng and
and
Accommodations
A ccommodatio
ons Tips
Tip
ps
11
113
13
Places
P laaces to
o Stay
Stay
114
114–119
4–11
19
 Streetsmart

Left Visitors at SeaWorld San Antonio Right Colorful Fiesta San Antonio
S ee s a

Planning Your Trip

! Tourist Offices
Before arriving,
many stores or at the
Auto Club office.
pleasant during the day.
Rain may be expected at
contact the San Antonio any time of the year.
Convention and Visitors
% Visas and
Identification
Bureau for an information
pack. The Texas For visa information, all ( How Long to Stay
San Antonio’s sights
Department of Tourism international travelers can be seen in four days
also sends out valuable should check with their or less. The River Walk
information, including a embassy or the US is best enjoyed with
state map and the Texas Department of State several short visits, while
State Travel Guide. Stop website well ahead of outings to SeaWorld and
by the Visitor Information their arrival date. the San Antonio Missions
Center for maps, lists of National Historical Park
current events, and
discount coupons. ^ Insurance
Obtain travel and
tend to take all day.
Allow a few days to
medical insurance before explore Hill Country,
@ Media
The San Antonio
arriving in the US as
medical care is very
Austin, or the Gulf Coast.

Express-News is the only

daily newspaper. Several
expensive. When renting
a car, make sure that ) Traveling
Children
with

free monthly publications adequate insurance Most attractions in San

are also available – the coverage for accident Antonio are suitable for
Rio for events along the and theft is included. children. Some of the
River Walk, the Fiesta large resorts and sights
and Qué Pasa for articles,
event calendars, and & When to Go
San Antonio is a year-
offer special children’s
programs. A San Antonio
coupons. Current, a free round destination. Kids Directoryy is available
weekly, is the best Summer is the busiest at the San Antonio Visitor
source for what’s playing season, when attractions Information Center.
at clubs and nightspots. such as SeaWorld and
Six Flags Fiesta Texas are
Internet
£ open with extended
Websites offer helpful hours daily. Spring and
information and tips about fall are when most of the
vacations, festivals, city major festivals are
services, transport, scheduled. Christmas
hotels, and restaurants. time is popular, when
visitors come to see the
Maps
$ A free map that
brilliantly decorated River
Walk. January, February,
highlights all major and early March are the
freeways and attractions slowest months.
is available from the
What to Take
San Antonio Convention
and Visitors Bureau. *Casual dress is the
The San Antonio best option. Summers
Illustrated Souvenir Map are hot and humid, while
is excellent for navigating spring and fall have warm
downtown and the days and cool nights.
River Walk. You can find January and February can
detailed street maps in turn cold, but are often

1004 Previous
P i pages: C
Casa Rio
Ri restaurant
t t along
l the
th River
Ri Walk
W lk
 S ee s a
Left Entrance to San Antonio International Airport Right Greyhound bus

Getting to San Antonio & Austin

! By Air
San Antonio
check the boards inside
the baggage claim areas. ( Greyhound Buses
Greyhound buses
International Airport is SATRANS provides operate 24 hours daily,
located 8 miles (13 km) shared-ride shuttle and cover most of the
north of downtown. services, with departures US and Canada. The
Many major domestic to downtown hotels North America Discovery
carriers have flights to approximately every 15 Pass offers unlimited
San Antonio, but the only minutes. Call ahead to travel at a low price.
non-stop international reserve.
flights fly to and from
Taxis ) Car
Mexico. Austin-Bergstrom
International Airport is % Taxis are available at San Antonio is
centrally located along
located on the site of the the airports. Up to four I-10, with Tucson,
former Bergstrom Air people may share a taxi. Phoenix, and Los
Force Base, in southeast Charges will be as per Angeles to the west. To
Austin on Texas Hwy 71. the metered distance. the east, I-10 leads to
It is 8 miles (13 km) Houston, Baton Rouge,
southeast of downtown.
^ Limo Services
San Antonio offers
and Jacksonville. The I-35
connects to Austin,
@ Customs
People 21 years or
more than two dozen
suppliers of limousine
which is 64 miles (103
km) to the north of San
over, are allowed to bring services to choose from. Antonio, and I-37 leads
one liter (0.26 gallons) of Options available range south to Corpus Christi.
beer, wine, or liquor and from airport pick-ups to
200 cigarettes. Meats, personal chauffeurs. Call
fresh produce, and plants ahead to schedule a
are prohibited. US suitable pick-up.
citizens may bring in
$400 worth of gifts, non-
citizens only $100 worth. & Bus
The most economical
Cash exceeding $10,000 ($0.80) way to get to
must be declared. Medi- downtown San Antonio
cation containing habit- from the airport is to take
drugs must be identified the VIA Metropolitan
and accompanied by Transit Route 2 bus at
a prescription. Terminal 2. To get around
Austin, the Capital Metro
£ Getting into Town
Information on how
buses are easily available.

to get around is available

at booths in front of the * Amtrak Trains
The Texas Eagle
airports. Options include travels daily between San
car rentals, taxis, share- Antonio and Chicago via
ride shuttles, limousines, Austin, Fort Worth, Little
public transport, and Rock, and St. Louis. The
courtesy vehicles. Sunset Ltd. heads east
to Orlando via Houston,
$ Shuttles and
Courtesy Vehicles
Lafayette, and New
Orleans. It also travels
For hotels nearby that west to Los Angeles via
offer courtesy shuttles, El Paso and Tucson.

F d
For details
t il on th
the N
North
th A
America
i DiDiscovery Pass
P check
h k 1055
www.discoverypass.com
www discoverypass
e yp com
 Streetsmart

Left Rio River Taxi Right Walking along the River Walk
S ee s a

Getting Around
! VIA Streetcar
Brightly colored VIA
walking distance of each
other. Also, the streetcar
numerous parking lots.
The most convenient,
Streetcars – trolleys that system is excellent and although the most
travel along four down- inexpensive while parking expensive, is the parking
town routes – make it is a challenge. Beyond garage at Rivercenter
easy to get to the major downtown, however, a Mall. There are cheaper
attractions. They run from car is most practical. The parking garages between
early morning till late in major national car rental Commerce and Market
the evening, cost $80 a firms have counters at Streets. The parking lots
ride, and come by the airport and offices just north of the Alamo
frequently. Find out throughout the city. charge $5 a day, but
more at any VIA keep exact change. Get a
Information Center.
^ Bicycle
San Antonio has very
map of parking lots and
garages from the VIA
@ VIA Buses
San Antonio has an
few bike lanes. Though
traffic is generally consid-
Information Center.

extensive and affordable

VIA bus system. Route 7,
erate of cyclists, it is
safest to avoid busy ) Tripper Pass
The VIA Day Tripper
the Sightseer Special, streets. Mission Trail Pass costs $3 and offers
travels between down- (see pp14–15), however, unlimited rides on all
town and the major is an exception, as it is streetcars and buses,
attractions to the north, well-marked and very except the express buses.
such as San Antonio Zoo, bicycle friendly. Buy the pass at any VIA
Witte Museum, and the Information Center.
Botanical Garden, while
Route 2 travels between & Walking
Walking is an
the airport, North Star excellent way to explore
Mall, and downtown. downtown San Antonio.
Popular sights such as
£ River Cruise
A cruise is an
the Alamo, La Villita, King
William, San Fernando
exceptional way to get Cathedral, and the
an overview of the River Market Square, are
Walk. The River Cruise clustered around the
barges offer a narrated River Walk area.
tour of the downtown
area (see pp8-9).
* Tours
See the highlights of
$ Rio River Taxi
The River Taxi offers
San Antonio on a guided
bus or trolley tour. Join a
a convenient way to get walking or Segway tour
from one part of the of the downtown area.
River Walk to another. Take a self-paced cell-
Tickets are available phone tour or an evening
onboard the taxi, or at walking tour featuring
the Rio ticket locations. ghosts and legends.

% Car
A car is unnecessary ( Parking
In downtown San
downtown since the Antonio it is easiest
attractions are within to park in one of the

1006 F more on tours,

For tours
t contact
t t SegCity
S Cit Tours
T it com or
www segcity
www.segcity.com
call 210
210-224-0773.
210-224-0773
224 0773
 S ee s a
Streetsmart
Left Theft warning Center Prickly Pear cactus Right Handgun warning

Things to Avoid
! Driving
Downtown
wise to observe a few
guidelines to minimize
areas may flood. Check
with the rangers at the
One-way streets, heavy the risk of crime. Don’t National Park about road
traffic, and hordes of walk around at night, and conditions. Avoid driving
pedestrians in the never carry large on unfamiliar country
downtown area make it amounts of cash, wear roads during heavy rains.
difficult to navigate by expensive jewelry, or
car, especially during
rush hour. It is much
keep your wallet in your
back pocket. Sling hand- ( Scratches
Cactus and sharp
easier and safer to park bags and cameras over scrubby plants are
the car and then walk or one shoulder with the common in the Texas
take a streetcar. strap across your body. countryside. The thorns
Keep your passport may scratch or get
Driving at
@ Rush Hour
separate from your cash
and traveler’s checks, and
caught in your clothes
if you walk too close.
The Loop 410 freeway store valuables in hotel Wear long sturdy pants
can be very frustrating safes when available. and high boots for pro-
during the morning or tection while hiking.
afternoon rush hour.
% Sun
Consult a map before
driving any distance
The sun is very
intense in this sub- ) Bites
Of all common insect
as some of the major tropical climate. Apply bites, a fire ant’s bite is
freeways, including sunscreen liberally when the most painful. They can
Interstates 10 and 35, outdoors, and wear a be encountered in the city
change direction in the wide-brimmed hat for as well as in the country,
downtown area. added protection. Wear so be very careful when
sunglasses to protect walking in grassy areas
£ Speed Limits
The highway speed
your eyes from the glare. and parks, such as the
San Antonio Missions
Temperature
limits in the San Antonio
area are very generous, ^ Change National Historical Park. In
the country watch out for
and Texans drive fast. Temperatures can change snakes and scorpions.
Speed limits are often rapidly here and it is Rattlesnakes have
lower at night, and can common for the nights to diamond-shaped markings
change suddenly near be cold and the days hot and their bite is poisonous
small towns. Speed traps in spring, fall, and winter. enough to be life
are common in the small threatening. They may be
towns surrounding San
Antonio as well as in the & Violent Weather
Though infrequent,
encountered in the
morning and evening
Hill Country. thunderstorms, tornados, when they seek a warm
and hailstorms are part of and sunny ledge or path.
Crime
$ San Antonio is a the Texas weather
pattern. Check weather
Rattlesnakes generally do
not strike unless
friendly city and most reports daily for early threatened, so give them
crime is limited to theft storm warnings. a wide berth. Scorpion
and car break-ins. The stings can also be very
River Walk area is heavily
patrolled by city police, * Flash Floods
The area along the
serious, especially for
children. If bitten or stung
but the poorer areas San Antonio River is low by rattlesnakes or
south and west of lying, and when heavy scorpions, seek medical
downtown are not. It is rainstorms occur, some help immediately.

F currentt iinformation
For f ti on th
the weather
weather,
th check
h k www.srh.noaa.gov/
www srh
h noaa gov// 1077
ewx or call 830
ewx 830-606-3617.
830-606-3617
606 3617
 Streetsmart

Left Airline counters Center Visitor Information Center sign Right Musicians at River Walk
S ee s a

Budget Tips
! Airline Deals
The best deals are
Entertainment
% and Attractions ( Package Deals
Travel websites often
usually found on an Most of San Antonio’s offer package deals that
airline’s own website. Top Ten attractions, such include airfare, hotel, and
Always compare prices as the Alamo and San a rental car. The San
for various airlines on Antonio Missions Antonio Convention and
travel websites before National Historical Park, Visitors Bureau website
choosing a flight. are free. Visit Market has a Savings section
Square for free entertain- with deals on SeaWorld
@ Hotel Discounts
Room rates fluctuate
ment or enjoy live music
along the River Walk.
San Antonio, golf, spa
visits, and many more.
widely depending on the When making hotel
time of year and whether
festivals or conventions ^ Parking
Parking is most
reservations ask about
special deals.
are being held or not. expensive downtown.
Check any of the hotels’
own websites, or speak
Arrive early in the
morning, before rush ) Day Passes
SeaWorld and Six
with their reservations hour, to park in one of Flags Fiesta Texas offer
departments for details on the self-pay lots north of two-day passes that are
the best deals. the Alamo near the Post heavily discounted for
Office. During fiestas or the second day.
£ Free Museums
Two of the best
other major events check
with VIA for park and ride
museums in San Antonio, bus options (see p106).
The McNay Art Museum
and the Fort Sam
Houston US Army & Travel Passes
Take advantage of
Medical Department unlimited rides on the
Museum, are always streetcars and all buses,
free. Also free on except the express bus,
Tuesday afternoons and with the one-day VIA
evenings are the San Tripper Pass. Purchase
Antonio Museum of Art online or at any VIA
from 4–9pm and the Center (see p106).
Witte from 3–8pm.
* Off-Season Travel
$ Coupons
The San Antonio
April through October
is the busiest time of the
Visitor Information Center year and hotel rates will
(see p104) is a great be high. Late August and
source for discount early September are less
coupons for restaurants, busy than other warm
hotels, and attractions. weather months while
Free monthly magazines January and February are
such as Fiesta and Qué the slowest months of
Pasa (see p104) also the year. During the rest
have coupons. Check the of the year you can
San Antonio Convention obtain lower hotel rates
and Visitors Bureau by calling ahead to avoid
website for eCoupons major festivals, holidays,
and SAVE coupons. and large conventions.

1008
 S ee s a
Left Handicapped parking sign Center Yellow cab Right City visitor information agent

Special Needs Tips

! Disabled Parking
Reserved parking % Bus Service
Most VIA buses are
specializes in world-
wide travel for people
spaces are marked by equipped with accessibility with disabilities.
a blue and white features and extra aid,
wheelchair logo on the
pavement and by a sign.
including lift or ramp
activation, as well as ( Travelers
Assistance
A special disabled securing wheelchairs, The Access-Able Travel
placard must be is provided (see p106). Source and the Society
displayed in the car Check the Disability for Accessible Travel and
at all times. Access Office website Hospitality are two
for wheelchair size national organizations
@ Hotels and
Restaurants
and weight limits. A
few of the downtown
which offer travel advice
to those with disabilities.
Major hotels will have streetcars are also Advice ranges from how
accessible acommo- wheelchair accessible. to rent specially adapted
dation. Always call in cars to qualifying for
Taxis and Airport
advance to reserve an
ADAs compliant room, ^ Shuttle parking permits.

and discuss specific

needs. When making
Yellow Checker Cab
offers a wheelchair ) Make
Reservations
restaurant reservations, accessible taxi service and Ask
specify that you require when requested by Always call ahead to
access, and clarify the phone. Prior arrange- specify personal require-
accessibility available. ments can also be made ments. Many attractions
with SATRANS for ADA have alternate entrances
£ River Walk
The River Walk is
compliant airport shuttle
vehicles (see p105).
with ramps, or will
provide special assis-
wheelchair accessible, tance when asked. In
with a limited number of
elevators, ramps, and & San Antonio
Disability Access
general, people will go
out of their way to help.
restrooms. These are Office
indicated in San Antonio’s San Antonio strives to
Accessible River Walk provide excellent
which is available on the accessibility and much
Disability Access Office progress has been
website. The free Rio made throughout the
magazine also has a map city to comply with the
that indicates the level of intent of the law.
ADA compliance for
restaurants, attractions,
and services that are on * Travel Agencies
Numerous travel
and near the River Walk. agencies offer packages
and itineraries suitable
River Cruise
$ and Taxi
for travelers with
disabilities. The Society
All the River Cruise for Accessible Travel
and River Taxi barges and Hospitality maintains
are equipped to carry a list of agencies that
passengers in wheel- support a broad range
chairs and have the of special needs.
required ramps. Flying Wheels Travel

C t t 800
Contact 800-514-0301
514 0301 for
f information
i f ti on the
th American
A i Disabilities
Di biliti 1099
Act (ADA)
( ) or visit www
www.ada.gov
ada g gov
Streetsmart

Left Police officers Center Restroom sign Right Walk-in medical clinic
S ee s a

Security and Health

! Embassies
Consulates
& in occupational medicine
and treat all minor
as do gas stations and
restaurants. Shopping
International visitors who medical needs and centers, public buildings,
lose a passport, or have emergencies. Service is libraries, and large hotels
an emergency, should prompt and the costs are other places to try.
contact their embassy are comparatively lesser
or consulate. All
embassies are located in
than at a hospital
emergency room. ) Safety
Most areas of the
Washington, DC but city are reasonably safe,
some countries have
their consulates in other ^ Pharmacies
Pharmacies are
with a very strong police
presence downtown,
cities too. Check the located throughout the particularly near the
Washington, DC area, many of which have River Walk. Minimize
Embassy Directory evening hours, but if you risk by walking in well-
Assistance to locate the require one late at night, lit areas and traveling on
consulate closest to you. there are several 24-hour heavily used streets.
CVS and Walgreen’s Best avoid areas south
Keeping
@ Documents Safe
pharmacies. and west of downtown
where crime rates
Before leaving home,
make photocopies of all & Car Accident
Call 911 if anyone is
are higher.

important documents, injured. Drivers must

such as your passport exchange driver’s license
and visa, as well as serial information and all
numbers of traveler’s vehicle insurance details.
checks and credit cards, If you are in a rental car,
in the event they are report all accidents to the
stolen or lost (see p111). agency immediately.
Contact the police if the
£ Emergencies
Dial 911 for all
property damage appears
to be over $500, or if you
medical, police, and fire require a police report.
emergencies. Provide the
details of your location.
Calling 911 is free from * Seatbelts
Texas law requires
any phone. the driver and all front-
seat passengers to wear
$ Hospitals
San Antonio has very
seatbelts. All backseat
passengers under 16
good hospitals with must wear seatbelts.
emergency rooms. It’s a Children under four
good idea to call your or under 36 inches
insurance provider for a (91.4 cm) in height must
referral to a local clinic or be secured in a car
medical doctor. safety seat. If renting a
car, request a child safety
% Walk-in Clinics
Texas MedClinics are
seat in advance.

privately owned walk-in

clinics, located all over ( Public Restrooms
All major attractions
the area. They specialize have public restrooms,

110 E
Emergency care is
i offered
ff d byb severall local
l l providers.
providers
id Consult
C lt the
th
y
yellow pages
p g of the telephone
p book for details
details.
 S ee s a
Streetsmart
Left Public pay-phone Center Mail boxes Right Wells Fargo Bank ATM

Banking and Communications

! Exchange Telephone Shipping
It is best to exchange % Before using a phone ( A UPS franchise is
your money before you at a hotel, ask about the best option for
arrive in the US. Though specific charges for local boxes, packing materials,
banks provide the best and long-distance calls. and tape to prepare
exchange rates, not all Coin-operated pay items for shipping
exchange money, or will phones can be found at domestically. PacMail is a
exchange only certain hotels, and at some full-service agent for
currencies. For daily restaurants and gas FedEx and DHL domestic
expenses, use credit stations, but very few of and international courier
cards, traveler’s checks in them take incoming calls. and shipping services.
US dollars, and ATMs for They pack or ship even
cash withdrawals.
^ Phone Cards
Pre-paid telephone
large and bulky items.

@ ATMs
There are many
cards are easily available.
Read the fine print before ) Courier Services
International and
24-hour ATMs in San buying one. Be aware of domestic packages can
Antonio and the sur- the minimum calling be shipped from either
rounding area. Look on charge, especially for DHL or FedEx offices
the back of your ATM or international calls. located in San Antonio.
credit card to clarify Packages can also be
which banking network
it is associated with. & Internet
Most hotel rooms are
sent through the post
office or an independent
ATMs inside conven- wired for Internet access, UPS franchise, usually at
ience stores or malls but check to see if the a lower cost but with a
charge you for the service is dial-up or not. longer delivery time.
convenience, as does Many of the larger hotels
your own bank if you go have business centers
outside its network. with Internet access.
Many coffee shops offer
£ Banks
Many major banks
wireless Internet access,
but you will need to have
can be found in the a laptop with you.
greater San Antonio
area. Banking hours are
generally 9am to 5pm, * Post Offices
Normal post office
Monday through Friday. hours are from 8am to
Most banks are open 5pm, Monday through
Saturday mornings and Friday. Some branches
those in malls are open open on Saturday morn-
on Sundays as well. ings until noon. Stamps
are either available from
$ Traveler’s Checks
By far the safest form
machines in the post
office lobby, which have
of money, traveler’s signs that indicate the
checks in US currency are cost of postage for
accepted almost every- domestic and international
where in the city. Change locations, or from the
is given in cash. Lost or clerks behind the
stolen traveler’s checks counter. Hotels will often
are easily replaced. post letters for you.

1111
Streetsmart

Left Hats on sale Center Shop, Market Square Right River Art Gallery
S ee s a

Shopping Tips
! Shopping Hours
Hours for shops, $ Shopping Malls
Glitzy shopping malls
Hatters: Map N3; 119
Broadway; 210-223-3453;
specialty stores, and in San Antonio, such as www.parishatters.com
boutiques may vary, but the Rivercenter Mall,
they are generally open
from 9 or 10am to 5:30
North Star Mall, and
Shops at La Cantera, & Museum Stores
San Antonio’s
or 6pm Monday through offer an incredible museums (see pp40–41)
Saturday. Some are selection of merchandise. offer some of the most
either closed on Sunday Visitors from Mexico, unique shops in the city.
or open for shorter Texas, and the South- The merchandise reflects
hours. Most of the west come here to shop the museums’ collec-
shopping malls are open for everything from tions, so selections vary
from 10am–9pm Monday clothing and electronics from Western kitsch at
to Saturday and from to high fashion and the Buckhorn (see p40)
noon–6pm on Sunday. luxury items. to Asian imports at the
San Antonio Museum of
@ 24-Hour Stores
Several major chains % Outlet Centers
San Antonio’s out-of-
Art (see p70).

have 24-hour stores in

San Antonio, such as
town outlet malls are
huge and offer a dazzling * Senior Discounts
Senior discounts are
CVS, Walgreen’s, HEB array of items. Many offered at some movie
Grocery Stores, and Wal- of them are of high halls, attractions, hotels,
Mart Supercenter. All of quality and have standard restaurants, and shops.
these stores offer a large pricing, but you can The age at which senior
selection of items as find great bargains on status begins may vary
well as convenience. Wal- last year’s merchandise. from 55 to 65. Some
Mart offers some of the The factory clearance retail outlets offer
lowest cost merchandise stores have tempting discount days. Have an
in the city. You can find offers for the bargain- AARP card or ID ready.
practical clothing for hunter. The outlet malls
the entire family as well
as sunglasses, carryalls,
in San Marcos are
among the largest in ( Souvenirs
Mexican souvenirs
and even souvenirs, the country. are extremely popular,
though they will be and most visitors head
Texan Wear
more often than not
made in China. d HEB: ^ Hats and boots are to Market Square
where the selection is
Map F3; 9900 Wurzbach the two critical com- extensive. Be aware
Road; 210-696-0794 • Wal- ponents for dressing that the quality varies,
Mart Supercenter: Map Texan. These can be and definitely check
G6; 1200 SE Military Dr; purchased readymade or where the merchandise
210-921-0800; www. custom-ordered. Belts, was actually made.
walmart.com. shirts, accessories, and
jeans complete the look.
) Returns
£ Sales Tax
The current sales tax
It is fun to browse and
shop at the specialty
Most stores accept
returns in like-new
rate in San Antonio is stores where the condition, unless the
8.125 percent. Food selection is huge, and item was purchased
items at grocery stores the variety of colors and on sale. Enquire about
are not taxed, but non- styles is dazzling. d Boot the return policy, and
food items, prepared Hill: Map N4; Rivercenter whether the refund is in
food, and drinks are. Mall; 210-223-6634 • Paris cash or store-credit.

112 F information
For i f ti on th the AARP – A
American
i A
Association
i ti off R
Retired
ti d
Persons – call 1-888-687-227.
1-888-687-227
1 888 687 227
 S ee s a
Left Camping at Enchanted Rock State Recreation Area Right Busy downtown deli

Eating and Accommodations Tips

! Early Bird Specials
Dining at restaurants
Broadway, north of
downtown, for lower
Guide, which is sent out
with requests for Texas
that offer early-bird cost dining options. travel information.
specials, between 4:30
and 6:30pm, can prove
to be cost-effective. The % Tipping
Tips help ensure ( Extended Stay
Some hotels and
menu is often limited to prompt and courteous motels offer kitchenettes
a few entrées but the service. In restaurants, and suites that can
quality and service are bars, and nightclubs, tip be an economical
the same. waitstaff 15–20 percent alternative to eating out.
of the check, and bar- The kitchen may either
@ Lunches
Entrées on lunch
tenders 10–15 percent. In
hotels, bellhops receive
be minimal, with just a
microwave and
menus are often less $1 or more per bag, refrigerator, or full-size.
expensive than in the room cleaning $1–2 daily, Many also offer guest
evening, and many valet parking $1 each laundry facilities. Always
restaurants offer daily time. The concierge or ask what amenities are
lunch specials. Budget- doorman are tipped only included.
watchers who enjoy fine when they perform a
dining can lunch at
upscale restaurants and
special service.
) Camping
There are many
save money.
^ Taxes
Hotel rooms in San
camping choices available
near San Antonio. Large
£ Alcohol Age Limit
The legal drinking age
Antonio have a 16.75
percent tax rate, while
RV resorts with full
hookups, swimming
in Texas is 21. Under-age the sales tax on pools, and playgrounds
drinking is allowed if the restaurant meals is are found near SeaWorld.
person is with a legal-age lower, at 8.125 percent. Outside of San Antonio,
parent or spouse, with in the Hill Country, Texas
documentation proving
the relationship. Open & Motel Chains
Motel chains offer
State Parks offer tent
camping with limited
containers in public or in standardized accommo- hookups for RVs, while
vehicles are prohibited. dations. They can be private RV resorts offer
found throughout San full-hookups.
$ Cheap Eats
Barbeque and Tex-
Antonio, but the lowest
priced ones are usually
Mex restaurants are the near the major freeways
most economical dining or the airport. Those near
option. For budget meals the River Walk are more
in the downtown area, expensive.
try the many cafés (see
p57) or the food court at
the Rivercenter Mall, * Accommodations
Guide
where good options One of the best ways
include salads, entrées, to find accommodations
and fast food. River Walk to fit a specific personal
restaurants are some of requirement, such as
the most expensive in a pet-friendly hotel or
the city. Many locals an exercise-room onsite,
also like to choose from is to check the free
the restaurants along Texas Accommodations

1133
Streetsmart

Left Watermark Hotel & Spa Center Westin Riverwalk Inn Right La Mansión del Rió
S ee s a

Luxury Hotels
! Hotel Valencia
Riverwalk
inviting ambience.
The rooftop pool offers * Hotel Contessa
The hotel’s stunning
Located on a popular sweeping views of the five-story atrium lobby
stretch of the River city. d Map M4 • 212 W looks out on the San
Walk, near the Majestic Crockett St • 210-396-5800 Antonio River. The all-
Theatre, the Valencia • www.watermarkhotel. suites guest rooms are
offers chic, contemporary com • $$$$$ contemporary and
amenities. d Map M3 spacious, and have
• 50 E Houston St • 210-
227-9700 • www. % Westin
Inn
Riverwalk floor-to-ceiling windows
with views of the city
hotelvalencia.com • $$$$$ A heady mix of Westin’s or the river. Adding to
signature opulence, with the hotel’s allure is its
@ Marriott
Rivercenter
a Spanish Colonial
theme. A classical
location, just minutes
from the restaurants and
This gleaming high-rise guitarist plays Latin clubs along the River
hotel is a favorite with ballads on Fridays and Walk. d Map N4 • 306 W
conventioneers, business Saturdays, and “La Market St • 210-229-9222
travelers, and shoppers Merienda”, a Latin version • www.thehotelcontessa.
for its luxurious rooms in of high tea is also on com • $$$$
traditional decor and offer, Tuesday through
relaxing color schemes.
d Map P4 • 101 Bowie St
Saturday. d Map M4 • 420
W Market St • 210-224- ( Omni San Antonio
Sophisticated comfort
• 210-223-1000 • www. 6500 • www.westin.com/ and service are the
marriott.com/satrc • $$$$$ riverwalk • $$$$$ hallmark of this hotel
conveniently located near
£ Hyatt Regency
San Antonio
La Mansión
^ del Rió
SeaWorld and Six Flags
Fiesta Texas. Families will
The most talked-about A Spanish hacienda-style appreciate the Omni Kids
hotel in San Antonio hotel with a beautiful program. d Map F3
has a dramatic 16-story interior courtyard. Some • 9821 Colonnade Blvd
atrium lobby with a rooms have balconies • 210-691-8888 • www.
bit of the San Antonio overlooking either the omnihotels.com • $$$
River running through river or the courtyard.
it. Rooms are luxurious
yet Texas-casual. The
Guests may also use the
spa at the Watermark ) Hilton
Del Rio
Palacio

Hyatt is also home to the Hotel across the river. Built for the 1967
legendary jazz venue,The d Map M4 • 112 College St HemisFair, each of the
Landing. d Map N4 • 123 • 210-518-1000 • www. Hilton’s guest rooms
Losoya St • 210-222-1234 lamansion.com • $$$$$ have Spanish decor and
• www.sanantonioregency. private balconies with
hyatt.com • $$$$
& Marriott Riverwalk
Located on the River
eye-catching downtown
or River Walk views. Its
Watermark Hotel
$ & Spa
Walk, this first-class hotel
offers great service and
expansive lobby is
flooded with soft light
Reputed to have some of comfortable rooms with from the river, enhancing
the finest rooms in all of balconies, luxurious the beauty of the brass
San Antonio as well as a bedding, and high-speed and onyx details.
superb spa. The hotel’s Internet access. d Map d Map N4 • 200 S Alamo
Southwest Texas-style M4 • 711 E Riverwalk St • 210-222-1400 • www.
decor with contemporary • 210-224-4555 • www. palaciodelrio.hilton.com
touches creates an marriott.com/satdt • $$$$$ • $$$

114 U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated
stated,
t t d all
ll h
hotels
t l and
d iinns acceptt credit
dit cards
cards,
d
have p
private bathrooms
bathrooms,, and air conditioning
conditioning.
g
 S ee s a
Streetsmart
Menger Hotel atrium

Historic Hotels, Inns, and B&Bs

! Menger Hotel
Located next to the
The hotel is elegant and
sophisticated. d Map N5
made breakfast served in
the dining room, with
Alamo, this Victorian- • 555 S Alamo St • 210- afternoon refreshments
style hotel was built in 229-1000 • www.plazasa. of fruits and desserts,
1859 and has hosted com • $$$ and an evening sherry in
many famous people the parlor. d Map M6
throughout its long
history. The Menger Bar % Riverwalk Vista
A charming boutique
• 107 Madison St • 210-
225-4045 • www.nobleinns.
is also a legendary San hotel housed in the com • $$$
Antonio tavern. d Map historic 1883 brick Dullnig
N4 • 204 Alamo Plaza
• 210-223-4361 • www.
building downtown. The
contemporary restoration * Fairmont Hotel
This historic hotel
mengerhotel.com • $$$$$ combines high ceilings, built in 1906 entered
polished pine floors, and the Guiness Book of
@ Ogé House
A spectacular
large windows with
antiques, and whimsical
World Records as the
largest structure ever
antebellum mansion touches such as a teddy moved on wheels, when
located in the King bear on the bed. d Map it was shifted along
William Historic District. N4 • 262 Losoya at the the river to its present
Classically decorated River Walk • 210-223-3200 location in 1985. d Map
with period antiques, it • www.sanantonio.com/ N4 • 401 S Alamo St
is known for its majestic riverwalkvista • $$$ • 210-224-8800 • www.
verandas where one can thefairmounthotel-
enjoy breakfast.
d Map M6 • 209 ^ St. Anthony Hotel
Now one of the
sanantonio.com • $$$$$

Washington St • 210-223-
2353 • No dis. access
Wyndham Historic
Hotels, the St. Anthony, ( Brackenridge
House
• www.ogeinn.com • $$$ the world’s first air- The rooms at this cosy
conditioned hotel, B&B are a mix of modern
£ Emily Morgan
Once the Medical
provides European-style
elegance with its lavish
and antique – with
clawfoot tubs, wireless
Arts building, this luxury carpets and French Internet, microwave, and
hotel combines chic Empire antiques. The small refrigerator.
elegance with cozy guest rooms are formal d Map M6 • 230 Madison
touches. Exceptional yet comfortable with • 210-271-3442 • No dis.
service and proximity modern amenities and access • www.bracken
to the River Walk and high-speed Internet ridgehouse.com • $$$
downtown attractions access. d Map N3 • 300
make it a very popular
choice. d Map N3 • 705 E
East Travis • 210-227-4392
• st-anthony.wyndham- ) The Columns
on Alamo
Houston St • 210-225-8486 hotels.com • $$$ Victorian charm fills this
• www.emilymorganhotel. 1892 Greek Revival
Noble Inns –
com • $$$
& Jackson House
home. Some rooms have
fireplaces or jacuzzi tubs
$ Marriott Plaza
San Antonio
This traditional B&B,
housed in the historic
for two. The friendly inn-
keepers will also help
Beautifully landscaped home built for Moses plan your day. d Map M6
grounds with strolling Jackson in 1894, offers • 1037 S Alamo St • 210-
peacocks and historic an elegant Victorian 271-3245 • No dis. access
buildings create an oasis experience, complete • www.columnssanantonio.
of comfort near La Villita. with a library, home- com • $$$

1155
Streetsmart

Left Mayan Dude Ranch Center Riding, Dixie Dude Ranch Right Silver Spur Guest Ranch
S ee s a

Resorts and Ranches

! Hyatt Regency Hill
Country Resort $ Dixie Dude Ranch
Guests are treated
safaris, and hunting are
all extra. d Map A2 • Y O
This bright, spacious like old friends at this Ranch, Mountain Home,
country-style resort laid-back working ranch. NW of Kerrville • 830-640-
offers family activities Campfire sing-alongs and 3222 • No vegetarian food
including golf, spa dancing are part of the • No dis. access • www.
facilities, fitness, and fun at the ranch. yoranch.net • $$$$$
tubing on the river. They d Map A2 • Bandera • 830-
Guadalupe River
also offer supervised kids
programs in the summer.
796-4481• No vegetarian
food • No dis. access * Ranch Resort
d Map D4 • 9800 Hyatt • www.dixieduderanch.com & Spa
Resort Drive • 210-647-1234 • $$$$$ Once the Texas home of
• www.hillcountry.hyatt. Academy Award-winning
com • $$$$$
% Mayan
Ranch
Dude actress Olivia de
Havilland, best known for
@ Westin La Cantera
An elegant hilltop
This Hill Country ranch
has been in operation
her role as Melanie in
Gone With the Wind,
resort, set in a former for 50 years. Efficiently today this rustic ranch is
limestone quarry, this run by the Hicks family, a favorite for family
hotel has two award- meals include many reunions and vacations.
winning golf courses, a Texan favorites and there Spa treatments and
spa, and health club. The are plenty of activities on tubing on the Guadalupe
architecture reflects the offer. d Map A2 • Bandera River are extras here.
ethnic diversity of Texan • 830-796-3312 • No d Map A2 • PO Box 877,
culture, embracing vegetarian food • No dis. Boerne • 800-460-2005
Spanish, European, and access • www.mayanranch. • www.guadaluperiverranch.
Texan details. The library, com • $$$$$ com • $$$$
restaurant, and meeting
rooms are named in
honor of Texan legends. ^ Silver Spur
Guest Ranch ( Lake Austin
Spa Resort
d Map E2 • 16641 La Recently remodeled and An oasis of tranquility
Cantera Pkwy • 210-558- under new management, and luxury, this world-
6500 • www. the Silver Spur has large class spa and fitness
westinlacantera.com modern rooms, meals at resort sits on a beautiful
• $$$$$ the lodge, horseback lake in the Hill Country.
rides, and more. d Map d Map B1 • 1705 S Quinlan
£ Radisson Hill
Country Resort
A2 • 9266 Bandera Creek
Road, Bandera • 830-796-
Park Rd, Austin • 512-372-
7300 • www.lakeaustin.
& Spa 3037 • No vegetarian food com • $$$$$
This family-friendly hotel • No dis. access • www.
has an excellent spa and
swimming pool. Located
ssranch.com • $$$$$
) Barton Creek
Resort and Spa
Y.O. Ranch
close to SeaWorld and
several golf courses, the & The rustic cabins at A grand Texan-style
resort in the Hill Country,
Radisson offers packages this game ranch have with four championship
that include two-day pine walls decorated with golf courses, a spa, and
passes and transportation antlers, and rocking plenty of places to find
to SeaWorld. d Map D4 chairs on the porch. solitude. d Map B1 • 8212
• 9800 Westover Hills Meals are inclusive, but Barton Club Dr, Austin
• 210-509-9800 • www. the horseback riding, • 512-329-4000 • www.
radisson.com • $$$$$ game ranch tours, photo bartoncreek.com • $$$$$

116 U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated
stated,
t t d all
ll h
hotels
t l and
d iinns acceptt credit
dit cards
cards,
d
have p
private bathrooms
bathrooms,, and air conditioning
conditioning.
g
 S ee s a
Streetsmart
Amerisuites Riverwalk

Mid-Range Hotels
! Drury Inn & Suites
San Antonio
rooms are reminiscent
of a European hotel in
guests. d Map M4
• 110 Lexington Ave
Riverwalk Havana, India, or Africa • 210-223-9461 • www.
Housed in the beautifully in the 1920s. d Map M2 eltropicanohotel.com • $$
restored Petroleum • 1015 Navarro St • 210-
Commerce Building, this
inn has lots of extras –
222-2008 • www.
havanariverwalkinn.com * Beckmann Inn and
Carriage House
free hot breakfasts, free • $$$ This 1886 home in the
drinks and snacks in the King William Historic
Homewood Suites District was built by
evening, and 60 minutes
of free long-distance % by Hilton Albert Beckmann as a
calls. d Map M4 • 201 N This all-suites hotel offers wedding gift for his bride.
St. Mary’s St • 210-212- large one and two- Beautifully landscaped
5200 • www.druryhotels. bedroom suites with grounds, a wraparound
com • $$$ full kitchens. Other porch, and sunroom are
conveniences include highlights of the house.
Amerisuites d Map F5 • 222 E
@ Riverwalk an on-site laundry,
fitness center, business Guenther St • 210-229-1449
Close to all the down- center, and a store that • No dis. access • www.
town attractions, rooms sells microwave dinners beckmanninn.com • $$$
here have high-speed and snacks. d Map M4
Internet access,
microwaves, and
• 432 W Market St • 210-
222-1515 • www.home ( The Inn at
Craig Place
refrigerators. There is woodsuitesriverwalk.com Designed by Alfred Giles
also a 24-hour fitness • $$$$ in 1891, this inn has
center, breakfast buffet, sparkling wood floors,
and parking. d Map M5
• 601 S St. Mary’s St • 210- ^ O’Brien
Hotel
Historic a library, parlor, and
sunporch. Luxury and
227-6854 • www. This charming boutique exceptional service are
amerisuites.com • $$$ hotel recently upgraded reflected in its rooms and
its guest rooms and the three-course gourmet
£ Crockett Hotel
Built in 1909, this
offers luxurious beds and
linens. Some rooms have
breakfast. d Map G4
• 117 W Craig Place • 210-
hotel is located near the a shared balcony and 736-1017 • No dis. access
Alamo on part of the there is an on-site • www.craigplace.com
1836 battlefield. Guest business center. d Map • $$$
rooms are decorated M5 • 116 Navarro St • 210-
with pine furnishings and
the outdoor pool and hot-
527-6058 • www.
obrienhotel.com • $$ ) Doubletree
San Antonio
Hotel

tub are surrounded by Airport

beautiful landscaping.
d Map G5 • 320 Bonhan St & ElEl Tropicano
Tropicano
was the
This Spanish Colonial
hotel wraps around a
• 210-225-6500 • www. first hotel built along the landscaped courtyard
crocketthotel.com • $$ River Walk in 1962. Its with fountains and a
bold design and bright swimming pool. Rooms
$ Havana
Inn
Riverwalk tropical colors set it apart
from the rest of the
have high-speed Internet
access and dual phone
This unique boutique accommodations here. It lines. d Map F3 • 37 NE
hotel is filled with objects also has lively Latin Loop 410 • 210-366-2424
d’artt from around the entertainment and offers • www.doubletree.com
world. The hotel’s 27 salsa dance lessons to its • $$$

1177
Streetsmart

Left La Quinta Inn & Suites Airport Right Comfort Suites Central
S ee s a

Budget Hotels
! Best Western
Sunset Suites
The VIA streetcar and
bus, and tour buses stop * Comfort
Central
Suites

An all-suites hotel in a in front of the hotel. A favorite with those

beautifully converted d Map G5 • 405 Broadway requiring extended stays,
turn-of-the-19th century • 210-222-1000 • www. this all-suites hotel chain
building located close to travelodge.com • $ offers comfortable and
the River Walk. Lots of attractive guest rooms
extras, including free
parking, buffet breakfast, % La Quinta Inn &
Suites Airport
with a separate living
area, microwave, and
fitness center, and This inn offers a free refrigerator. Additional
Internet access. d Map airport shuttle service. facilities include an
Q5 • 1103 E Commerce St Spacious rooms have outdoor pool, hot tub,
• 210-223-4400 • www. quality linen, micro- guest laundry, and a free
bestwesternsunsetsuites. waves, and refrigerators. Continental breakfast.
com • $$ Guests also enjoy access d Map F4 • 6901 I-10 W
to the fitness room, pool, • 210-738-1100 • www.
@ Bonner
B&B
Garden and a free breakfast.
d Map G3 • 850 Halm Blvd
choicehotels.com • $$

This lovely two-story

Italian villa surrounded by
• 210-342-3738 • www.lq.
com • $$ ( Courtyard by
Marriott-Airport
gardens was built in 1910 Spacious rooms with a
by noted architect Atlee
B. Ayers. The furnishings ^ Red Roof Inn
Downtown
contemporary sitting
area, large work space,
are a mix of antiques and Great downtown location and deluxe bedding make
modern comfort. d Map and exceptional value this a popular chain
G4 • 145 E Argarita Ave for money. Guest rooms hotel. The outdoor pool
• 210-733-4222 • No dis. are comfortable, children and whirlpool are set
access • www. under 18 stay for free in a nicely landscaped
bonnergarden.com • $$ and some rooms offer courtyard with deck
a microwave and small chairs. There is also a
£ Bullis House Inn
Decorated in
refrigerator for an
additional charge. d Map
complimentary airport
shuttle, breakfast buffet,
southern Texas-style, P4 • 1011 E Houston • 210- and parking. d Map G3
the rooms in this Neo- 229-9975 • www.redroof. • 8615 Broadway Street
Classical mansion are com • $ • 210-828-7200 • www.
furnished with antique courtyard.com/satca • $$
reproductions in rich
& Microtel
Suites
Inn &
shades of burgundy,
green, gold, and blue. Microtel is one of the ) Quality Inn Airport
This inn is known for
Some rooms have shared most respected chain its clean rooms and
bathrooms. d Map G5 hotels. It offers a free friendly service. The
• 621 Pierce St • 210-223- Continental breakfast guest rooms are spacious
9426 • No dis. access with waffles, an exercise with comfortable beds,
• www.bullishouseinn. room, outdoor pool, above average room
com • $ guest laundry, and decor, and high-speed
a shady picnic area with Internet access. There is
$ Alamo Travelodge
Located just five
BBQ grill. All rooms have
free high-speed Internet.
on-site parking and a
complimentary airport
blocks north of the Alamo d Map H5 • 3911 I-35 N shuttle service. d Map G3
with free parking and an • 210-231-0123 • www. • 542 NE Loop 410 • 210-
outdoor swimming pool. microtelinn.com • $ 930-3300 • $

118 U l
Unless otherwise
th i stated
stated,
t t d all
ll hotels
h t l and
d inns
i acceptt credit
dit cards
cards,
d
have p
private bathrooms
bathrooms,, and air conditioning
conditioning.
g
 S ee s a
Streetsmart
Runnymede B&B

Staying Outside San Antonio

! Radisson Resort
South Padre
its 1930s ambience. Each
floor is decorated with a
Internet access, a
microwave, and a
Island different color theme. refrigerator. d Map C4
The inviting beachside The rooms are small, • 15202 Windward Dr,
location on South Padre but furnished with North Padre Island, Corpus
Island is the highlight of antiques. d Map B2 • 240 Christi • 361-949-8041
this resort. Enjoy the S Seguin Ave, New • www.sunspreeresorts.
outdoor pools, beach Braunfels • 830-625-7791 com • $$$
access, sundeck, and lit • No dis. access • www.
tennis courts. d Map C6
• 500 Padre Blvd, South
fausthotel.com • $$
* The Driskill
The magnificent lobby
Gruene
Padre Island • 956-761-6511
• www.radisson.com/ % Homestead Inn
with marble floors, three-
story columns, and
southpadretx • $$$$$ This charming inn offers stained-glass dome
a broad selection of ceiling exudes opulence.
@ Camp David Bed
& Breakfast
room sizes, styles, and
amenities. Choose from
The Driskill’s finely
appointed rooms include
Nestled in landscaped rooms with country terry robes and luxury
grounds with large pecan decor, antiques and lace, bedding. d Map T2 • 604
trees, these five private or a cozy attic room. Brazos St, Austin • 512-474-
cottages have king-size d Map B2 • 832 Gruene 5911 • www.driskillhotel.
beds, full kitchens, and Road, New Braunfels com • $$$$$
gas fireplaces. The • 830-606-0216 • No dis.
Hyatt Regency
breakfast is served in
the courtyard or at the
access • www.gruene
homesteadinn.com • $$$ ( Austin on Town
cottage. d Map A1 • 708 Lake
W Main, Fredericksburg
• 830-997-7797 • No dis. ^ Omni
Hotel
Bayfront The signature atrium
lobby is impressive, but
access • www.camp Rooms at this high-rise the real attraction is the
davidbb.com • $$ bay-front hotel have proximity to Town Lake.
cherry wood furnishings Guests can rent paddle
£ Runnymede
B&B
and attractive artwork.
Some have balconies and
boats, canoes, and bikes.
d Map T3 • 208 Barton
Surrounded by the bay views. There is a Springs Road, Austin • 512-
beautiful Hill Country, health club with sauna 477-1234 • www.austin.
this English-style and whirlpool. d Map U5 hyatt.com • $$$
country inn offers • 900 N Shoreline Blvd,
guests the choice of
either private cottages
Corpus Christi • 361-887-
1600 • www.omnihotels. ) Mansion at
Judges Hill
or attractive guest rooms com • $$$ Classic, romantic charm
at the inn. d Map A1 is the highlight here. The
Holiday Inn
• 184 Fullbrook Lane,
Fredericksburg • 830-997- & Sunspree North
columned mansion at the
hotel’s heart was built in
5612 • No dis. access Gulf Beach Resort 1900. The rooms are
• www.runnymede A beachfront hotel with modern yet gracious,
countryinn.com • $$ an outdoor pool and with brocade fabrics and
bar service, tennis solid furnishings. d Map
$ Faust Hotel
Built in 1929 but now
courts, and a fitness
room. The lobby features
T2 • 1900 Rio Grande,
Austin • 512-495-1800
completely renovated, huge freshwater • www.mansionatjudgeshill.
the Faust prides itself on aquariums. Rooms have com • $$$$$

1199
 General Index
A Austin 90–95 Brackenridge House 115
Acenar 56 music venues 94 Brackenridge Park 7, 22,
acequia 11, 15, 16 places to eat 95 32–3, 60, 61, 74
7
air travel 105 Austin Museum of Art Brackenridge golf course
Index
de

Alamo, The 6, 8, 10–11, 93 32, 33

12, 13, 15, 20, 21, 23, Ayres, Robert Moss 42 Sunken Garden Theater
36, 37, 38, 41, 51, 64, Aztec On The River 8, 68, 32, 51
7 , 77,
68, 69, 70, 71, 74 71 Broken Spoke 94
106, 108, 115, 117, 118 Azúca 56, 59 Buckhorn Saloon and
battle of the Alamo 10, Museum 40
12–13, 23 B Buckhorn Saloon 40,
defenders of the Alamo Bakery Café 99, 101 57, 68
13, 20, 36 Bandera 41, 58, 60, 61, budget tips 108
Alamodome 42, 43 62, 68, 80, 81, 84, Bullis House Inn 118
Alamo Plaza 10, 11, 38 85, 116 buses
Alamo Quarry Market 49, bandstand 24 Greyhound 61, 105
77, 78, 79 banking 111 Tripper pass 106, 108
Lucchese Boot barbeque 55, 58, 73 VIA buses 106
Company 78 bars 59 Bussey’s Flea Market 78
Whole Earth Provision Barton Creek Resort and
Company 78 Spa 116 C
Alamo Travelodge 118 Beckmann, Albert Felix 24 Cadillac Bar & Restaurant
Aldaco’s 55 Beckmann Inn and 59
Almeida, Leopoldo de 9 Carriage House 117 cafés 6, 8, 9, 57, 68, 113
Altdorf Biergarten 85 Bejas Grill 83 Camp David Bed &
Ambasz, Emilio 43 Best Western Sunset Breakfast 119
Amberjack’s Bayside Bar Suites 118 Cameron, Ralph 42
and Grill 101 Beyond Downtown San camping 99, 113
Amerisuites Riverwalk Antonio 74 7 –9 Canyon Café 77, 79
117 places to eat 79 Carriage House Kitchen
Anna, Santa 6, 11, 12, 13, places to shop 78 30, 57, 77
20, 23, 36, 37, 38, 70 Biergarten 63, 85 Carver Community
Antone’s 94 Biga on the Banks 73 Cultural Center 50
Aransas National Wildlife Bill Miller Bar-B-Q 14, 55 Casa Navarro State
Refuge 47, 96, 97 bird-watching 61 Historic Site 39
architecture 42–3 Bistro Vatel 56 Casa Rio 8, 9, 55
Arneson River Theatre 8, Blanton Museum of Art Casbeer’s 58
22, 50 92, 93 Cascade Caverns 47
Art Galleries Blue Star Brewing Cassatt 19
Art Museum of South Company 59 Castle Hill Café 95
Texas 100 boat cruise 8 Castroville 80, 82
The McNay Art Museum Bob Bullock Texas State Catfish Charlie’s 101
7 , 76,
6, 18–19, 40, 74 History Museum 90, Cave Without a Name 47
77, 108 91, 93 Centennial House 100
Monte Wade Fine Arts Bohanan’s 55 Centerpoint Station 85
Gallery 23 Boiling Pot 95 Cézanne 6, 18, 40
Starving Artist Art Bolivar Café 22 Chamade Jewelers 48, 72
Gallery 23 Bolo’s Rotisserie Grill 79 Charline McCombs
Artisans Alley 48, 78 Bonner Garden B&B 118 Empire Theatre 50
Hacienda Gallery 78 Boudro’s 73 children’s attractions
Art Museum of South Bourbon Rocks 94 52–53
Texas 100 Bowen, John 23 Kiddie Park 32, 33, 53
ArtPace 72 Bowen/Kirchner House Magik Children’s Theatre
AT&T Center 61 22, 23 53
ATMs 111 Bowie, James 10, 12, 13 Natural Bridge Caverns
Atomar Bar & Lounge 59 Brackenridge, George 33 46, 52

120
children’s attractions (cont.) credit cards 111 Fig Tree 73
Natural Bridge Wildlife Crockett, Davy 10, 12, 13 Fire Bowl Café 79
Ranch 46, 52 Crockett Hotel 117 fishing 60
Quadrangle at Fort Sam Cullum, Jim 9 Floore Country Store
Houston 53 cultural centers 62–3 58
San Antonio Zoo 7, Customs 105 Florian House 22, 23

Index
7 , 75,
32, 34–35, 53, 74 Cuvee Wine Market and food 54, 55
77, 106 Bistro 85 chili con carne 54
Schlitterbahn Water Park enchilada 54
52, 61, 80, 82, 86 D entrées 56, 57, 79, 83,
SeaWorld San Antonio delis 57 95, 113
7 , 75, 104
7, 26–7, 52, 74 Demo’s 79 fajitas 54
Six Flags Fiesta Texas diners 57 guacamole 54
7 , 76, 104,
52, 61, 63, 74 disabled visitors 109 pico de galloo 54
108, 114 Dixie Dude Ranch 116 sauerkraut 55, 85
Witte Museum 32, Doubletree Hotel San tacos 22, 54, 55, 79
7 , 76,
33, 41, 53, 74 Antonio Airport 117 tamale 54
77, 106 Dove, Arthur 19 Texan cuisine 54, 55
Chili Queens 38, 54, 64 Downtown San Antonio Tex-Mex 32, 54, 55, 56,
Churches 68–73 57, 65, 73, 79, 85, 113
Mission Concepción places to eat 73 tortillas 54
Church 14 places to shop 72 Ford, O’Neil 43
Mission Espada Church Driskill, The 119 Fort Sam Houston 41, 53,
14, 15 Driskill hotel 93, 95 7 , 75, 76, 108
74
Mission San José 14, Driskill Grill 95 Francesca’s at Sunset
16–17, 38, 39, 42, 43, Drury Inn & Suites San 57
62, 65 Antonio Riverwalk 117 Francisco’s 85
San Fernando Cathedral Durty Nellie’s Irish Pub Frederick’s 79
6, 20–21, 38, 42, 68, 59 Fredericksburg 87
70, 106 Dyeing O’ The River Green Fredericksburg Herb Farm
St. Joseph’s Downtown 64 87
Church 39 Friedhelm’s Bavarian Inn
The Little Church 22, E 85
23 Earl Abel’s 57 Friedrich Wilderness Park
Chuy’s 95 Eberson, John 42 46, 60, 61
Ciao Lavanderia 57 Edward Steves, Jr. House
City Centre Café 20 25 G
Clara Driscoll Theater 10 El Cristo Negro 20, 21 gallery 7, 19, 25, 72, 83
Club 311 94 Elephant Room 94 Gauguin 6, 18, 40
The Columns on Alamo El Paseo del Rio 6, 8, 68 General Cós, Perfecto de
115 El Sol Studios 72 10, 12, 23, 36
Comfort Suites Central El Tropicano 117 Giles, Alfred 24
118 embassies 110 Giraud Françios 20
communication 111 emergency numbers 110 golfing 60
Congress Avenue Bridge Emily Morgan 42, 115 Governor’s Mansion 90,
Bat Colony 90, 93 Emo’s 92, 94 91
Continental Club 94 Enchanted Rock State Gordon, James Riley
Corpus Christi 100 Natural Area 47, 60, 80, 25
Corpus Christi Botanical 82, 84 Goya 76
Gardens 100 Grapevine, The 81, 86
Corpus Christi Museum of F Gruene Hall 58, 62, 80,
Science and History 96, Fairmont Hotel 115 81, 86
98, 100 Father Margil 17 Gruene Homestead Inn
Cós House, The 22 Faville D. Franklin 23 119
coupons 108 Faville House 22, 23 Guadalupe Cultural Arts
courier 111 Fernandez, Rosita 71 Center 50, 65
Courtyard by Marriott- festivals 64–5 Guadalupe River Ranch
Airport 118 Christmas events 65 Resort & Spa 116

1211
 Guenther, Carl Hilmar 24 I Las Posadas 20, 65
Guenther House 24, 57, IMAX theater 9, 91 La Villita National Historic
71 The Inn at Craig Place District 7, 8, 22–3, 48,
Gunter Bakery 57 117 50, 68, 69, 71, 72, 106,
Institute of Texan Cultures 115
H 40, 62, 63, 65, 69 La Zona Rosa 94
Index
de

H.B. González Convention insurance 104 LBJ Library 90, 92

Center 8 internet 104, 111, 114, LBJ National Park at LBJ
Havana Riverwalk Inn 115, 117, 118, 119 Ranch 84
117 Iron Cactus Grill 95 LBJ State and National
HEB Science Treehouse Historic Parks 80, 82,
33, 41, 53, 76, 77 J 87
HemisFair Park 8, 43, 46, Japanese Tea Garden 32 Le Rêve 56
53, 68, 69, 71 Jeffrey’s 95 Liberty Bar 59
Heritage Park 100 Joseph’s Storehouse 57, Lila Cockrell Theatre 50
hiking 60 79 Limestone Grill, The 85
Hill Country 80–87 Joseph’s Storehouse & Little Rhein Steakhouse
Fredericksburg 87 Bakery 57 23, 55
New Braunfels 86 Lone Star Café 10, 73
places to eat 85 K Lone Star Mercantile 23
places to see Kalteyer House 24, 25 Long Barrack Museum
wildflowers 84 Katz’s 95 10, 71
Hilton Palacio Del Rio Kerrville Folk Festival 64 Losana Mariano 23
114 Kiddie Park 32, 33, 53 Losana House 22, 23
history 36–7 King Ranch 96, 97 Los Patios 78
historical figures 37 visitor center 96, 97, 99 Lucile Halsell
historic sites 38 King Ranch Museum and Conservatory 7, 30–31,
hockey 61 Saddle Shop 96, 97 43, 76
Holiday Inn Sunspree Kingston Tycoon Flats 58
North Gulf Beach Resort King William Historic M
119 District 7, 24–5, 25, 68, Mad Dogs British Pub 59
Homewood Suites by 71, 73, 106, 115, 117 Madhatters 57
Hilton 117 King Willie’s Barbeque 73 Maggie Mae’s 92, 94
Hopper 6, 19, 40 Kirchner, Auguste 23 Magik Children’s Theatre
hospitals 110 Koogler, Marion 18 53
Hotel Contessa 114 Kumamoto En (Japanese Majestic Theatre 42, 50,
hotels Garden) 30, 31 68, 71, 114
beyond San Antonio malls
119 L Crossroads of San
budget hotels 118 L’Etoile 18, 79 Antonio 78
historic hotels, inns, and Lady Bird Johnson La Cantera 49, 57, 61,
B&Bs 115 Wildflower Center 84, 78, 112, 116
luxury hotels 114 90, 92 North Star Mall 49, 78,
mid-range hotels 117 La Fonda on Main 57 106, 112
resorts and ranches Lake Austin Spa Resort Prime Outlets 49, 78
116 116 Tanger Outlet Center
Hotel Valencia Riverwalk La Mansión del Rió 114 78
114 La Margarita Mexican Mansion at Judges Hill
Houston, Sam 13, 37, 38, Restaurant and Oyster 119
7 , 75, 76, 91
41, 53, 74 Bar 73 Manuel’s 95
Howl at the Moon 59 Landa Park 65, 86 maps 104
Huisache Grill 85 Landing, The 8, 9, 58, margaritas 56, 95
Hyatt Regency Austin on 114 mariachi 8, 14, 62, 63, 64,
Town Lake 119 Landry’s Seafood 99, 101 69, 70
Hyatt Regency Hill La Quinta Inn & Suites Marin, John 19
Country Resort 116 Airport 118 Market Square 48, 62,
Hyatt Regency San Las Canarias Restaurant 64, 65, 68, 70, 72, 73,
Antonio 114 56 106, 108, 112

122
Marriott Plaza San Antonio Museums 40–41 Mustang Greys 22
115 Blanton Museum of Art Mustang Island 99, 100
Marriott Rivercenter 114 92, 93 Mustang Island State
Marriott Riverwalk 114 Bob Bullock Texas State Park 99
Martin 37, 76, 87, 92 History Museum 90,
Massimo 79 91, 93 N

Index
Matisse 6, 18 Buckhorn Saloon and Navarro, José Antonio
Mayan Dude Ranch 116 Museum 40 39
McAlister Samuel 23 Centennial House 100 Naegelin’s Bakery 63
McAlister House 22 Corpus Christi Museum National Museum of the
McAllister Auditorium 51 of Science and History Pacific War 41, 80, 81,
McFarlin Tennis Center 61 96, 98, 100 87
McNay Art Museum, The Fort Sam Houston 41, Natural Bridge Caverns
18–19, 40, 747 , 76 7 , 75, 76, 108
53, 74 46, 52
Menger, William 38 Gift Museum 10, 11 Natural Bridge Wildlife
Menger Hotel 38, 68, 72, Hill Country Museum Ranch 46, 52
115 83 Nelson A. Rockefeller
bar 59, 115 Institute of Texan Center for Latin
shops 72 Cultures 40, 62, 63, American Art 40
Mexico Lindo 72 65, 69 New Braunfels 86
Microtel Inn & Suites King Ranch Museum New Braunfels
118 96, 97 Smokehouse 85
Milam, Ben 10, 12, 13, LBJ Library and nightlife 58–9
36, 37 Museum 90, 92 Nimitz, Chester 41
Military Plaza 38, 54, 64, McNay Art Museum, Nimitz Hotel 81, 83
70 The 6, 18–19, 40, 74 7, Noble Inns-Jackson House
Mission Espada 14, 15 76, 77, 108 115
missions Museo Americano Norton/Polk/Mathis House
Mission Concepción Smithsonian 40 25
Church 14 Museum and Soldiers’ Norton, Russell 25
Mission Espada Church Quarters 16
14, 15 Museum of Texas O
Mission San José 14, Handmade Furniture O’Brien Historic Hotel
16–17, 38, 39, 42, 43, 86 117
62, 65 Museum of Western Art O’Keeffe 6, 19, 40, 76
Mission San Juan 14, 41, 63, 80, 83 O. Henry House 39
15 Museums of Port Isabel Oaks Café and Grill 26
Mission San Antonio de 96, 99 Ogé House 115
Valero 11, 25, 36 National Museum of the Oktoberfest 65, 83
Mission Trail 15, 106 Pacific War 41, 80, 81, Old Tunnel Wildlife
Mi Tierra Café & Bakery 87 Management Area 87
55, 62 San Antonio Museum of Omni Bayfront Hotel 119
Mok, Marmon 43 Art 40, 70 Omni San Antonio 114
Molina, Mario 40 Sophienburg Museum Oppenheimer, Frederic 19
Monte Wade Fine Arts and Archives 86 OST Restaurant 85
Gallery 23 Spanish Governor’s Otto Bombach House 22,
Moonlight Towers 91, 93 Palace 38 23
Municipal Auditorium 50, Steves Homestead 7, outdoor activities 60–61
51 24, 71
Museo Americano US Army Medical P
Smithsonian 40, 62, 70 Department Museum Padre Island National
Museum of Texas 41, 75, 108 Seashore 46, 47, 60,
Handmade Furniture USS Lexington 41, 96, 96, 98, 99, 100
86 98, 99, 100 Paesano’s Riverwalk 73
Museum of Western Art Vereins Kirche Museum Panchito’s 55
41, 63, 80, 83 87 parks
Museum of Western Art Witte Museum 32, 33, Brackenridge Park 7,
Kerrville 63 7 , 76, 77, 106
41, 53, 74 22, 32–3, 60, 74
7

1233
 parks (cont.) R Rudy’s Country Store and
HemisFair Park 8, 43, Radisson Hill Country Bar-B-Q 55
46, 53, 68, 69, 71 Resort & Spa 116 Runnymede B&B 119
Heritage Park 100 Radisson Resort South
Kiddie Park 32, 33, Padre Island 119 S
53 Rails – Café at the Depot Salute 59
Index
de

Landa Park 65, 86 85 San Antonio Art League

LBJ State and National Ramada Emily Morgan Museum 24, 25, 71
Historic Parks 80, 42 San Antonio Botanical
82 Recendiz, Leonardo Soto Garden 7, 30, 43, 46,
San Antonio Missions 21 7 , 76, 77, 84
74
National Historical Red Roof Inn Downtown San Antonio Botanical
Park 6, 14–15, 747 , 75, 118 Garden & Lucile Halsell
104 Renoir 6, 18, 40 Conservatory 30–31
Schlitterbahn Water Park Republic of Texas 10, 11, San Antonio Central
52, 80, 82, 86 37, 73, 82, 101 Library 43
Snake Farm & Exotic Republic of Texas Bar & San Antonio Conservation
Animal Park 86 Grill 101 Society 24
parks and gardens 46–7 restaurants 56–7 San Antonio Express-
Parra, Agustin 21 Austin 95 Newss 104
Pelican’s Landing 99, 101 Beyond Downtown San San Antonio International
performing art venues Antonio 79 Airport 105
50–51 Downtown San Antonio San Antonio Missions
Arneson River Theatre 73 National Historical Park
8, 22, 50 Hill Country 85 7 , 75, 107,
6, 14–15, 74
Carver Community South of San Antonio 108
Cultural Center 50 101 San Antonio Museum of
Charline McCombs Texan restaurants 55 Art 40, 70
Empire Theatre 50 restrooms 110 San Antonio River 6, 7,
Guadalupe Cultural Arts retabloss 19, 21, 70 10, 15, 21, 22, 23, 33,
Center 50, 65 return of the Chili Queens 7 , 75,
50, 51, 68, 69, 74
Lila Cockrell Theatre 64 114
50 Rivera 19, 76 San Antonio Stock Show
Majestic Theatre 42, 50, River Art Group 23 64
68, 71, 114 Rivercenter Comedy Club San Antonio Zoo 7, 32,
McAllister Auditorium 58, 59 7 , 75, 77,
34–35, 53, 74
51 Rivercenter Mall 8, 9, 106
Municipal Auditorium 39, 48, 72, 106, 112, San Fernando Cathedral
50, 51 113 6, 20–21, 38, 42, 68, 70,
San Pedro Playhouse river cruise 106, 109 106
51 river sports 60 San Pedro Playhouse 51
Verizon Wireless River Walk 6, 7, 8–9, 22, santoss 18, 19
Amphitheater 51 24, 25, 36, 37, 50, 51, Sauerkraut Bend 25
Pesca on the River 73 56, 58, 59, 64, 65, 68, Saxon Pub 94
phone cards 111 69, 71, 73, 104, 106, Schilo’s 55, 57
Picante Grill 32, 79 107, 108, 109, 110, 113, Schlitterbahn Water Park
Picasso 6, 18, 19 114, 115, 117, 118 52, 61, 80, 82, 86
Pioneer Museum 83, 87 Riverwalk, Live from the Sea Ranch 101
Polk, Edward 25 Landing 9 SeaWorld San Antonio 7,
Polly Esther’s 59 Riverwalk Vista 115 7 , 75, 104
26–7, 52, 74
Porter, William Sydney 39, rodeo 61, 62, 64 security and health 110
91 Rodin 6, 19, 40 Segway tour 106
post offices 111 Roosevelt, Franklin D. senior discounts 112
47 Sheplers Western Wear
Q Roosevelt, Theodore 36, 78
Quality Inn Airport 118 37 shopping
Quadrangle at Fort Sam Rosario’s Mexican Café y 24-hour stores 112
Houston 53 Cantina 73 areas 48–9

124
shopping (cont.) Teatro Fiesta 63 traveler’s checks 107, 110,
Texan wear 112 Tejano Conjunto Festival 111
tips 112 50, 64 Travis, William Barret 10,
Shoreline Grill 95 telephones 111 13
shuttles 105 tennis 61 Trout Street Bar & Grill
SATRANS 105, 109 Texan Revolution 37 101

Index
Silo 56, 57 Texas Declaration of Twin Sisters 57
Silver Spur Guest Ranch Independence 11,
116 12, 39 U
Sip Coffee & Expresso Bar Texas folklife festival University of Texas 90,
57 65 92
Six Flags Fiesta Texas 52, Texas Land & Cattle US Army Medical
61, 63, 747 , 76, 104, 108, Steakhouse 55 Department Museum
114 Texas Maritime Museum 41, 75, 108
Snake Farm & Exotic 96, 97 USS Lexington 41, 96,
Animal Park 86 Texas native trail 30, 31 98, 99, 100
Snoopy’s Pier 101 Texas Pioneers, Trail
Sophienburg Museum and Drivers and Rangers V
Archives 86 Museum 32, 33, 77 Van Gogh 18, 40
South of San Antonio 96– Texas Ski Ranch 86 Vereins Kirche 83, 87
101 Texas State Aquarium 96, Verizon Wireless
Corpus Christi 100 98, 99, 100 Amphitheater 51
Great Texas Coastal theaters VIA Streetcar 106
Birding Trail 98 Arneson River Theatre Villita Stained Glass 23
Places to Eat 101 8, 22, 50 visas 104
South Padre Island 60, Charline McCombs
96, 99, 119 Empire Theatre 50 W
Southwest School of Art Lila Cockrell Theatre Wahrenberger, James
and Craft 72 50 25
Spanish Governor’s Palace Magik Children’s Theatre walking trails 33, 84
38, 42, 68, 70 53 Watermark Hotel & Spa
special needs tips 109 Majestic Theatre 42, 50, 114
spectator sports 61 68, 71, 114 water parks 52, 80, 82,
speed limits 107 Sunken Garden Theater 86
Splashtown 61, 74 7 , 77 32 Water Street Seafood
St. Anthony Hotel 51, Texas Eagle 105 Company & Oyster Bar
115 Threadgill’s World 101
St. Joseph’s Downtown Headquarters 95 Westin La Cantera 116
Church 39 Tobin Collection 18, 76 Westin Riverwalk Inn 114
St. Phillip’s College 22, Torch of Friendship 69, White Rabbit 58
23 70, 71 Wildseed Farms 46, 84,
State Capitol 90, 91, 93 Toulouse-Lautrec 76 87
visitors center 60, 90, tourist offices wine 82
91, 93, 104 San Antonio Convention Witte Museum, The 32,
Steves Homestead 7, 24, and Visitors Bureau 7 , 76, 77,
33, 41, 53, 74
71 104, 108 106
Stockyards Café 79 Texas Department of Wurstfest 65
Sullivan Carriage House Tourism 104
30 VIA Information Center Y
Sunset Hills 18, 19 106 Y. O. Ranch 62, 116
Sunset Station 74 7 , 77 Visitor Information
Swig 59 Center 87, 104, 108 Z
swimming 60 tours 106 Zilker Park Barton Springs
Tower of the Americas 8, Pool and Botanical
T 43, 46, 69 Gardens 90, 93
taxis 105, 109 trains Zinc Champagne & Wine
rental cars 106 Amtrak 105 Bar 59
Rio River taxi 106 Texas Eagle 105 Zuni Grill 56

1255
 Acknowledgements
The Author Picture Credits
Nancy Mikula’s passion has been t-top; tl-top left; tlc-top left center; tc-
to explore America and discover top center; tr-top right; cla-center left
c o edge e s
Acknowledgements

its little-known attractions. Her above; ca-center above; cra-center

articles on travel and history have right above; cl-center left; c-center;
appeared in numerous cr-center right; clb-center left below;
publications in the USA and cb-center below; crb-center right
Canada. She has authored below; bl-bottom left; b-bottom; bc-
Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness bottom center; bcl-bottom center
Top 10 guide to Santa Fe as well left; br-bottom right; d-detail.
as collaborated on guides to
Arizona, Southwest USA, and the Every effort has been made to trace
Grand Canyon. the copyright holders of images, and
we apologize in advance for any
Main Photographer Paul Franklin unintentional omissions. We would
be pleased to insert the appropriate
Additional Photography acknowledgements in any
Nigel Hicks subsequent edition of this publication.

Fact Checker Geoff Groesbeck The publishers would also like to

thank the following for their
At DK INDIA: assistance and kind permission to
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose photograph at their establishments:
Project Editors Arundhti Bhanot,
Artisans Alley; Blanton Museum of
Shikha Kulkarni, Shonali Yadav
Art; Bourbon Rocks; Buckhorn Saloon
Project Designer Shruti Singhi
Museum; 311 Club; Deli; El Mercado;
Assistant Designer Neha Beniwal
Faville House; Florian House; Forker’s
Senior Cartographer Suresh Kumar
Store, Conservation Plaza; Guenther
Cartographer Kunal Singh
House; Huisache Grill; Institute of
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba
Texan Culture; King Ranch Museum;
Khatoon
LBJ State and National Historic
Picture Research Assistance
Parks; Massimo Restaurant; Menger
Sumita Khatwani Hotel Atrium; Mission San José;
Indexer & Proofreader Pooja Museum of Science and History;
Kumari Museum of Western Art; National
DTP Co-ordinator Shailesh Sharma Museum Of Pacific War; River Art
DTP Designer Vinod Harish Gallery; Runny Meade B&B; San
Antonio Botanical Garden; San
At DK LONDON: Antonio Museum of Art; San Antonio
Publisher Douglas Amrine Zoo; San Fernando Cathedral;
Publishing Manager Lucinda SeaWorld San Antonio; Silver Spur
Cooke, Sadie Smith Guest Ranch; Spanish Governor’s
Design Manager Mabel Chan, Palace; St. Joseph’s Downtown
Sunita Gahir Church; The Landing; The Lodge at Y.
Senior Cartographic Editor Casper O. Ranch; The Marion Koogler McNay
Morris Art Museum; Water Street Seafood
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little Company and Oyster Bar.
DK Picture Library Romaine
Werblow, Myriam Meghrabi The works of art have been
Production Inderjit Bhullar reproduced with permission of the

126
following copyright holders: Moore 83tr; Michael Murphy 63tl; Al
Pablo Picasso © Succession Picasso/ Rendon 8-9c, 61tr, 62tr, 74tl, 76tl; Six
DACS London 2007, 19cra; George Flags Fiesta 76br; Craig Stafford 68tl;

Acknowledgements
Rickey © DACS, London/VAGA, New Tim Thompson 31cra, 60tl; Doug
York 2007, 19bl. Wilson 14–15c.

The publishers would like to thank THE GRANGER COLLECTON, NEW

the following individuals, companies YORK: 36tl.
and picture libraries for their kind
permission to reproduce their THE MARION KOOGLER McNAY
photographs. ART MUSEUM: 18cra; Paul Gauguin,
Portrait of the Artist with the Idol,l ca.
ALAMY: Ian Leonard 7crb. 1893, Oil on canvas, 17 x 12 7/8 in.,
Collection of the McNay Art Museum,
ARDEA LONDON LIMITED: Tom & Bequest of Marion Koogler McNay
Pat Leeson 97br. 18bc; Edward Hopper, Corn Hill
(Truro, Cape Cod), 1930, Oil on
CLEMENZ PHOTOGRAPHICS, INC.: canvas, 28 x 42 in., Collection of the
Bob and Suzanne Clemenz 1c. McNay Art Museum, Mary and
Sylvan Lang Collection 19tl; Pablo
CORBIS: Bettmann 37tr; Paul Picasso, Portrait of Sylvette, 1954, Oil
Colangelo 91tl; Richard Cummins on canvas, 39 x 32 in., Collection of
6cla, 80cr, 90cl, 90cr; Wolfgang the McNay Art Museum, Gift of the
Kaehler 3br; Pacha 51tr; Joseph Estate of Tom Slick 19cra; George
Sohm, Visions of America 88–9. Rickey, Horizontal Column of Five
Squares Excentric II, 1994, Stainless
LONELY PLANET PICTURE steel, 71 x 134 in. maximum possible,
LIBRARY: Richard Cummins 3tc Collection of the McNay Art Museum,
Museum purchase with the Russell
MASTERFILE: Jeremy Woodhouse Hill Rogers Fund for the Arts 19bl.
4–5.
FRONT FLAP: CORBIS: Kelly-
PHOTOLIBRARY: Chris Roger/ Mooney Photography tl; LONELY
Indexstock Imagery 92tl. PLANET PICTURE LIBRARY: Richard
Cummins br.
SAN ANTONIO CONVENTION AND
VISITORS BUREAU: Tom Becker All other images are © Dorling
15cra; Morris Goen 71br; Dave G. Kindersley. For further information
Houser 20cla, 57br, 71tr; Steve see www.dkimages.com.

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1277
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& ausTin

Whether you are traveling first class or on a limited

budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight
to the very best San Antonio and Austin have to offer.

Dozens of Top 10 lists – from the Top 10 historic sights,

including the Alamo, to the Top 10 museums, shopping
areas, and restaurants – provide the insider knowledge
every visitor needs. And to save you time and money,
there’s even a list of the Top 10 Things to Avoid.

Visit travel.dk.com to build your own travel guide

and receive exclusive offers.

$12.00 USA

Discover more at $15.00 CANADA

www.dk.com Printed in China

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING