Whitakeraudio 20W Stereo Amplifier
Whitakeraudio 20W Stereo Amplifier
20 W Stereo Amplifier
Copyright 2015 WhitakerAudio LLC, Morgan Hill, California, USA.
No part of this document may be reproduced without the express written consent of
WhitakerAudio.
Specifications subject to change without notice.
Any trademarks used in the manual are the property of their respective owners.
Note:
This document is intended to assist readers in building an audio product for personal use. See the
Warranty for service limits. Always use good engineering practices and appropriate safety
precautions.
Table of Contents
1 Circuit Description 8
1.1 20 W Stereo Amplifier Module 8
1.1.1 Amplifier Circuit 8
1.1.2 Power Supply 12
1.1.3 Preamplifier Power Supply Module 13
1.2 Power Management Module 15
1.2.1 Power Management Expansion Board 19
1.3 General Considerations 21
2 Parts List 24
3 PWB Design 34
3.1 20 W Stereo Amplifier Module 34
3.1.1Amplifier PWB #1 (right) 35
3.1.2Rectifier PWB 38
3.1.3Amplifier PWB #2 (left) 40
3.1.4 Speaker Terminal PWBs 43
3.2 Preamplifier Power Supply Module 45
3.3 Power Management Module 47
3.3.1 Power Management Expansion Board 49
4 Construction Techniques 52
5 Step-by-Step Instructions 54
5.1 Assembly of the 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #1 (Right Channel) 55
5.2 Assembly of the 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #2 (Left Channel) 65
5.3 Assembly of the Preamplifier Power Supply Module 74
5.4 Assembly of the Power Management Module 78
5.5 Assembly of the Power Management Expansion Board 83
5.6 Chassis and Final Assembly 87
5.6.1Front Panel Components 87
5.6.2 Back Panel Components 90
5.6.2.1 Back Panel Auxiliary Power Connector 92
5.6.3Cable Clamps and Related Hardware 94
5.6.4Install Printed Wiring Boards 97
5.6.5 Install Transformers 98
5.6.6Install Remaining Chassis Components 100
5.6.7Wire the Transformer Leads 100
5.6.7.1 Cable Organization 100
5.6.7.2 Right Channel Output Transformer Primary Leads 103
5.6.7.3 Left Channel Output Transformer Primary Leads 103
5.6.7.4 Power Transformer Leads 104
5.6.7.5 Choke Leads 106
5.6.8PWB Interconnections 107
5.6.9Primary Power Connections 110
5.6.10Chassis-Mounted Control 114
5.6.11 Headphone/Speaker Connections 115
5.6.11.1 Output Transformer Secondary Connections 116
5.6.11.2 Speaker PWB Assembly 117
5.6.11.3Speaker PWB Connections 120
5.6.11.4Headphone Jacks 121
5.6.12Power Management Module 123
5.6.13Power Management Expansion Board 127
5.6.14Feedback Circuit Cabling 130
5.6.15Audio Cabling 131
5.6.16Preamplifier Power Supply 133
5.7 Final Assembly Check 134
6 Initial Checkout 137
6.1 Power Management System Issues 145
6.1.1Troubleshooting Notes 147
6.2 Operational Tests 150
6.2.1 Auxiliary Power Connector Tests 151
6.2.2Feedback Trim Adjustment 152
6.2.3 Power Management Expansion Board Adjustments 153
7 Performance Measurement 155
7.1 Power Amplifier Performance Measurement 156
7.1.1 IMD Measurement 157
7.1.2 Hum Balance Adjustment 157
7.1.3Clipping Point 158
7.1.4 Crosstalk 159
7.1.5Square Wave Performance 160
7.1.6Bias Adjustment 160
7.2 Reference Measurements 164
7.3 Thermal Considerations 167
7.4 Final Touches 167
8 Troubleshooting Guidelines 169
9 Safety Considerations 170
10 Notes and Tube Data 171
10.1Tube Characteristics 171
10.1.16U8A Pentode/Triode Tube 171
10.1.26973 Beam Power Tube 173
10.1.36CA4 175
10.2Notes 176
Warranty 177
Notes and Disclosures 178
Cable Assembly Procedure 181
Addendum 185
User and Assembly Manual
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Beyond the great specs, the amplifier sounds very nice. Clean. Warm. Interesting. Like a tube
amp should sound.
The 20 W Stereo Amplifier is powerful enough to fill a room with great-sounding music, and
small enough to be practical for headphone listening. Aside from the obvious application of this
product in a home audio system, the 20 W Stereo Amplifier is ideal for use in computer sound
applications—for driving speakers or headphone listening (or both).
The amplifier generates little heat and (for a tube amplifier) consumes little power. Turn it on
and let it run. Put on some music and enjoy audio as it should be heard.
Operational Note: Unplug the headphones when not in use. If left connected, the headphones
could be damaged by playing the amplifier at high volume using the speakers. Headphones
typically are not rated for high power operation.
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1 Circuit Description
The 20 W Stereo Amplifier is built around two main modules—the power amplifier and power
management system. Each module is described in the following sections.
A high-gain pentode voltage amplifier is used as the input stage for the audio amplifier. The
output of this stage is direct-coupled to the control grid of a triode split-load type of phase
inverter. The use of direct coupling between these stages minimizes phase shift and,
consequently, increases the amount of inverse feedback that may be used without danger of low-
frequency instability.
A low-noise 6U8A tube (V1/ V4), which contains a high-gain pentode section and a medium-
µ triode section in one envelope, fulfills the active-component requirement for both the pentode
input stage and the triode phase inverter. Potentiometers R35 and R36 function the volume
controls for the amplifier.
The plate and cathode outputs of the phase inverter, which are equal in amplitude and opposite
in phase, are used to drive a pair of pentode 6973 beam power tubes in a class AB1 push-pull
output stage (V2/V5 and V3/V6). The 6973 tubes are biased for class AB1 operation by the fixed
negative voltage applied to the control grid circuit from the power supply. Fixed bias is used
because a class AB amplifier provides highest efficiency and least distortion for this bias method.
Transformer T1/T2 couples the audio amplifier output to the speaker. Taps are provided on
the primary windings for connection to the screen grid of each output tube. This mode of
operation reduces distortion of the amplifier, albeit with a small power output penalty. The taps
on the secondary of the transformer match the plate-to-plate impedance of the output stage to the
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Figure 1.1 The 20 W amplifier: (a) amplifier PWB #1—right channel, (b, next page) amplifier
PWB #2—left channel.
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Figure 1.1(b).
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speaker voice-coil impedance. Although the transformer specified provides output impedances of
4 Ω, 8 Ω, and 16 Ω, only the 8 Ω tap is provided at the back panel for connection to the
loudspeaker. Negative feedback of approximately 20 dB is coupled from the secondary of the
output transformer to the cathode of the input stage to reduce distortion and to improve circuit
stability. Use of taps other than 8 Ω can compromise the distortion performance of the amplifier
unless appropriate adjustments are made to the feedback circuit. For users requiring an output
impedance of something other than 8 Ω, a custom implementation can be provided.
For lowest distortion in a push-pull amplifier stage, it is important that the operating
parameters of the two output tubes are well matched. The first step in achieving high
performance, therefore, is the use of matched output tubes. These are readily available from a
number of vendors. The second step is to make certain that the components supporting the output
tubes are matched as well. To this end, resistors R6, R7, R9, R10, R11, and R12 for the right
channel and resistors R23, R24, R26, R27, R28, and R29 for the left channel are all 1% precision
devices. In addition, coupling capacitors C4 and C5 for the right channel and capacitors C10 and
C11 for the left channel are all 5% tolerance devices.
Two front-panel jacks are provided for connection of one or two headphones to the amplifier
for private listening. One jack is a conventional 1/4-inch stereo phone; the other is a miniature
(3.5 mm) stereo jack. For headphone listening, the speaker outputs would normally be turned off.
While this function could be accomplished with a simple switch, it would require bringing the
speaker output leads from the back of the chassis to the front panel and then back again to the rear
panel. To avoid the potential for feedback or noise that such an arrangement could set up, the
Speaker On/Off switch is fed from a +5 V dc source and used to control relays that are located
adjacent to the speaker terminals. For the condition where the speakers are switched off, an 8 Ω,
10 W load is placed across the output transformer secondary.
It should be noted that the front panel headphone jacks are wired across the output transformer
secondary windings. The headphones used must be wired for stereo operation. A mono plug will
short-circuit one of the output channels. Series resistors in the headphone circuit are provided to
prevent over-loading the transformer secondary winding if this happens. The performance of the
affected channel, however, will be compromised if a mono headphone phone plug is used.
Extended operation with one headphone channel shorted can result in component damage.
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The transformer-coupled ac input power is converted to dc operating power for the amplifier
stages by the 6CA4 (V51) full-wave rectifier tube, the output of which is delivered to choke L51
and then to the filter bank. Filter capacitors for the B+ supply are provided on both the right and
left channel amplifier boards.
The rated output voltage of the B+ power supply is 345 V dc. With the recommended bias
voltage on the grids of the push-pull output tubes (–30 V), the steady-state no-signal current draw
is 130 mA. When producing 10 W per channel (the rated output), peak current draw is 210 mA.
The maximum output of the power supply is 300 mA. The power transformer (T51) and choke
(L51) are conservatively rated for this application. The 6CA4 rectifier tube is rated for an average
output current of 180 mA; the rated peak current per plate is 500 mA.
Bias voltage has a significant impact on the steady-state current requirements of the amplifier
stages. An operating value of –30 V is strongly recommended. Lower (less negative) bias will
result in shorter tube life from the output devices and rectifier.
Fixed bias operation of the output stage requires that the power supply provide good voltage
regulation as the plate current of the 6973 tubes vary considerably with signal level. The
conventional choke-input type of power supply used provides the required stability. The fixed
bias for the output stage is obtained from a 50 V ac tap on the high voltage secondary winding of
power transformer T51. This voltage source is rectified by a silicon diode and filtered.
Potentiometer (R57) is provided for adjustment of bias within a range of approximately –20 V to
– 50 V. Never set the operating bias on the output tubes for less than (more positive than) –20 V
dc. Component damage may result.
Potentiometer R55, connected across the 6.3 V secondary winding of transformer T51,
provides a hum balance adjustment for the amplifier. The wiper arm of the potentiometer is
connected to the junction of a resistive voltage divider across the output of the power supply. The
resulting positive voltage applied to the tube heaters minimizes heater-to-cathode leakage and
substantially reduces hum. Zener diodes are provided in this circuit and the bias supply to prevent
excessive voltages due to component failure.
Power thermistor VR51 is included in the primary ac circuit to limit the inrush current when
power is first applied to the amplifier. When at room temperature, the resistance of VR51 is about
10 Ω but as it heats due to current through the device, the resistance drops to a fraction of an ohm.
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Relay RYL51 takes VR51 out of the circuit after the amplifier has warmed up, thereby
eliminating a source of voltage drop in the primary circuit (and heat). The time delay for this
action is determined by a 5 V dc supply on the left channel PWB.
Filter FL51 conditions the input ac to remove noise present on the line. In addition, metal
oxide varistor (MOV) devices VR53 and VR54 suppress transient disturbances that could degrade
reliability of the system.
A schematic diagram of the Preamplifier Power Supply PWB is shown in Figure 1.2. This board
provides filament and B+ voltages to the optional companion stereo preamplifier chassis. In
addition, 115 V ac is provided for the pilot lamp on the preamp front panel.
An auxiliary power connector is included on the back panel of the amplifier for connection to
the preamp. The pinout for the connector is detailed in Table 1.1.
Table 1.1 Preamplifier Power Connector Pinout
Pin No. Function Connects To Notes
1 Ground PIN-1 on the PWB Ground
2 Pilot lamp PIN-2 on the PWB 120 V ac
3 Pilot lamp PIN-3 on the PWB 120 V ac
4 Auxiliary B+ PIN-4 on the PWB Approximately +250 V dc
5 Filament PIN-5 on the PWB 6.3 V ac for heaters
6 Filament PIN-6 on the PWB 6.3 V ac for heaters
7 Interlock PIN-7 on the PWB Connected to Pin #8 at load
8 Interlock PIN-8 on the PWB Connected to Pin #7 at load
9 Ground PIN-9 on th PWB Chassis ground
As listed in Table 1.1, Pins #7 and 8 serve as an interlock. When the umbilical cable is
connected from the amplifier to the preamplifier, Pins #7 and 8 are shorted, which activates relay
RYL301. The relay energizes the filament supply and pilot lamp voltage. It also connects the B+
supply line to the connector. The benefit here is that no voltages (other than 24 V dc) are present
at the auxiliary power connector when the preamplifier is disconnected.
The nominal B+ supply voltage for the preamplifier is +250 V dc. Because the input voltage
to the preamp power supply PWB will vary depending on the amplifier type, R301 is used to set
the approximate operating voltage. Following R301, the B+ voltage is filtered and applied to SCR
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Q301. When RYL301 is energized, a voltage source from the 35 V dc input is applied to the gate
of the SCR, triggering it. The SCR (and therefore the B+ voltage) remains energized once
triggered until the amplifier is switched off. Zener diodes D301 and D302 are included to keep the
voltage at the SCR below 400 V, regardless of whether a load is connected. The SCR chosen for
Q301 is rated for operation at up to 600 V dc.
The low voltage supply to the preamp power supply PWB is taken from a switched source on
the power management PWB. The +35 V dc (approximate) source is activated when the B+
detection circuit determines the high voltage power supply has reached at least +300 V dc. In this
manner, the high voltage for the amplifier is allowed to stabilize before power is applied to the
separate preamplifier. The typical time delay is about 20 seconds following amplifier turn-on.
Filament transformer T301 is rated for 6.3 V ac at 7.6 A. The filament supply is fused at 6.3
A. The B+ supply line is fused at 0.1 A.
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operation could result in damage to one or more devices. This circuit monitors the plate
voltage supply at power-up and shuts down the amplifier if the B+ voltage is below
normal.
These protection mechanisms are in addition to the soft-start circuit and line voltage circuit
breaker already provided on the amplifier. The power management board also serves as a power
supply (+35 V dc) for the preamplifier power supply board through a switched output from
RYL205 in the high voltage detection circuit of Q204/Q205.
The power management PWB mounts inside the chassis near the rear panel. In keeping with
the 1960s era technologies of the 20 W Stereo Amplifier, the circuit design is based on discrete
transistor circuits.
Operation of the protection circuit is quite simple. If an out-of-tolerance condition is detected,
the amplifier will be shut off. To reapply power to the amplifier, push the front panel power
switch off and then on again.
For users who want the ability to defeat the auto-shutdown feature, a toggle switch is provided
on the front panel. This switch as two positions—Auto Off / Normal.
A schematic diagram of the power management system is given in Figure 1.3. Relay-based
logic is used to latch power to the amplifier on and integrate the various protection mechanisms
into the control loop. The protection architecture will keep the amplifier in the off state until the
input ac power is cycled by operating the front panel power switch (off and then on) or by
unplugging and then reconnecting the ac power cord.
Varistors are included across the 120 V ac relays to eliminate transient disturbances. Diodes
are used across the coils of the 24 V dc relays to snub transient energy when the coil is de-
energized.
The time delay circuit consists of Q201 through Q203 and associated components1. The basic
circuit gives a time delay from a few seconds to several hours. With the circuit components
chosen for this implementation, a range of about one hour +/– 15 minutes can be selected through
setting of R209 (Delay Adjust). Clockwise rotation of R209 increases the delay time. The timing
interval is initiated by applying power to the circuit. At the end of the timing interval, which is
1. The circuit description is adapted from: GE Transistor Manual, the General Electric Company, Syracuse, NY, 1964.
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determined by the value of R201+R209 and C201, Q201 (2N494C) triggers a controlled rectifier,
Q203.
Charging resistor R201+R209 must be small enough to supply the minimum trigger current of
Q201 plus the leakage current of the capacitor when the emitter of the unijunction is biased at its
peak point voltage. This would place a limit on practical time delays of only 6 or so seconds. As
shown in the figure, a relaxation oscillator (Q202, 2N491) is included to reduce the minimum
trigger current requirement more than 1000 times by pulsing the upper base of Q202 with a 0.75
V pulse. The negative pulse causes the peak point voltage to drop slightly and if the voltage level
at C201 is greater than this, the unijunction will trigger. R202 is optimized for best stabilization
over the required temperature range. The maximum time delay that can be achieved by this circuit
is mainly dependent upon the maximum values that can be obtained for R201+R209 and C201
consistent with the low leakage requirement. Without diode D201, R201+R209 is limited to 15
megohms for an accuracy of 0.5% at 25 degrees C, but with D201, R201+R209 can be increased
considerably beyond that.
Transistors Q204 and Q205 comprise the voltage sensing circuit. The values of R214 and
R215 are determined by the operating voltage being measured. As a general guideline, R214 +
R215 = 800 × voltage being measured. The voltage sensing circuit is designed to latch on after the
proper voltage has been detected. Using the values of R214 and R215 shown in the parts list (240
kΩ total), the circuit will latch on at about 300 V dc.
Because the sensing circuits require time to settle (and the B+ voltages require time to build
up to operating value), a time delay is needed prior to enabling the protection devices. This delay
is accomplished by R211 and C207, which triggers SCR Q206 through zener diode D208. Using
the component values given in the parts list, a delay of approximately 30–60 seconds is provided.
The schematic diagram of the 20 W Stereo Amplifier shown in Figure 1.1a illustrates the
power management system as a black box device with two input terminals and two output
terminals. The system is best thought of in this way. When all operating conditions are satisfied,
the power management PWB functions as a piece of wire connecting the ac input power to the
rest of the amplifier. When an out-of-tolerance condition is observed, or the time-out function is
initiated, the load is disconnected from the ac line input.
Strictly speaking, the power management system is not required for operation of the power
amplifier. The board can be wired-around for testing. A critical design requirement for any
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protective system is that it must be considerably more reliable than the circuits it is protecting.
Every effort has been made, through system design and component selection, to make certain this
is the case.
Note that because the power management PWB supplies V+ operating power to the
preamplifier power supply PWB, the unit cannot be operated without the board functioning
properly.
The power management expansion board adds additional functionality to the power management
system, specifically:
• The auto-off feature is modified to switch the amplifier off about one hour after no output
is detected at the speaker terminals. With the basic power management system, the auto-
off feature is initiated after a fixed time period, not based on whether audio is being
reproduced by the speakers. The expansion board changes that.
• The bias voltage is monitored to make certain it does not drop below –20 V dc. If the bias
voltage is too low, it can result in shortened tube life; in extreme cases, it can cause
component damage. The expansion board monitors the bias voltage and removes power
from the amplifier if the voltage is outside recommended operating limits.
• A chassis interlock is provided that will shut the amplifier down if the bottom plate is
removed. This feature can be defeated for servicing.
A schematic diagram of the power management expansion board is shown in Figure 1.4.
Samples of the right and left channel speaker terminals are taken from the speaker PWBs (at
the Head1 terminal). Each input is applied to a voltage divider with a trimmer potentiometer
feeding a two-stage buffer amplifier. The trimmer sets the sensitivity of the buffer stage. The
outputs of the right and left buffer amplifiers are rectified and applied to a voltage amplifier,
which drives relay RYL401. A filter capacitor is included in the base circuit of Q403 to average
the buffer amplifier outputs, and prevent rapid cycling of the relay. The normally-open relay
contacts are used to initiate a Timer Reset function on the power management PWB. In this way,
so long as audio is present at the speaker terminals, the Timer Reset contacts are held closed. This
prevents the auto-off system from timing out. However, once no output is detected at the speaker
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Figure 1.4 Power management expansion circuit for the 40 W Stereo Amplifier.
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terminals, the short-circuit is removed from the Timer Reset and the auto-off system will function
as intended.
The bias voltage detection circuit is a one-stage voltage amplifier used to drive relay RYL402,
which is a part of the interlock circuit of the power management PWB. Negative voltage to run
the circuit is derived from the –60 V dc bias output on the rectifier PWB. The voltage is filtered
and held at –25 V by D405. The sensitivity of the circuit is set by trimmer potentiometer R418.
Zener diode D408 sets the minimum voltage that will trip the relay and thus keep the amplifier
running. (If low bias, or no bias, is detected, the amplifier will shut down.) With the component
values chosen, the circuit will switch on at approximately –20 V with R418 set for mid-point.
Apart from improper setting of the Bias Adj. potentiometer, the primary value of the bias
voltage detection circuit is to shut down the amplifier if the bias supply were to fail. While such a
failure would be quite unusual, it could be a potentially damaging event since the output tubes
would them be operating with no bias. Under such a condition, circuit breaker CB51 would trip,
removing power from the amplifier. The benefit of the bias detection circuit is that it operates
faster than the circuit breaker, the goal of which is to prevent—or at least limit—damage to other
components.
The interface from the bias detection circuit to the power management PWB is the SW203
terminal pair on the power management PWB. To maintain high-temperature sensing
functionality, the terminals from SW203 are routed to the expansion board for inclusion in the
interlock loop, as shown in Figure 1.4.
The interlock switch (SW401) opens the control protection loop when the bottom chassis
plate is removed. This switch can be bypass for servicing when needed. Note that when operating,
the bypass posts have 120 V ac present on each terminal. Install the service jumper only when
power is removed from the amplifier. Note also that the interlock is active only after the
protection loop is enabled (about 30–60 seconds after power is applied to the amplifier). Do not
rely on the interlock to remove dangerous voltages from the amplifier. Disconnect the amplifier
from the power source prior to servicing.
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This amplifier is complex and includes a number of components and sub-systems. In order to
simplify construction and maintenance, the following component numbering scheme is used:
• 1 to 50 – power amplifier components
• 51 to 99 – power supply and related components
• 200 to 299 – power management components
• 300 to 399 – preamplifier power supply components
• 400 to 499 – power management expansion components
The 20 W Stereo Amplifier is somewhat heavy. The handles included on each side of the
chassis are for more than just appearance. They are quite useful for moving the unit. The amplifier
also generates heat from the seven tubes and plate transformer. Normal convention cooling is
adequate so long as airflow around the amplifier is not restricted by other devices, shelving, etc.
Because of the large number of interconnecting wires needed for this amplifier, expanded
sleeving is used where practical to organize the cabling. This tends to simplify cable routing and
provides for a cleaner appearance. Wherever possible, cables are dressed either tight to the
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0.13-in 0.13-in
chassis, or well above the chassis so as to stay as far as possible away from signal-carrying lines
and to rest against the bottom cover plate, which further improves shielding.
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2 Parts List
A complete parts list for the 20 W Stereo Amplifier is given in Table 2.1. The table includes
manufacturer part numbers and stock numbers from one of the major parts houses2. These parts
are, of course, available from a number of manufactures and suppliers. The details given here are
for the convenience of the user. Substitutions of certain components may be made based on
availability.
2. Allied Electronics, 7151 Jack Newell Blvd. S., Fort Worth, Texas, 76118, USA,. www.alliedelec.com.
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Consumables for the 20 W Stereo Amplifier are listed in Table 2.2. Note that for fasteners,
quantities have been rounded up to the nearest increment of ‘5’.
Table 2.2 Consumables for the 20 W Stereo Amplifier
Quantity Description
10 ft Hookup wire, #18 black, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #18 green, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #18 yellow, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #18 white, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #18 brown, stranded
20 ft Hookup wire, #22 black, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #22 green, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #22 yellow, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #22 red, stranded
10 ft Hookup wire, #22 blue, stranded
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3 PWB Design
The 20 W Stereo Amplifier is comprised of three major PWB groups, specifically:
• The amplifier module, which includes amplifier board #1 (right), amplifier board #2 (left),
the B+ rectifier board, and a pair of speaker terminal boards.
• The preamplifier power supply module.
• The power management module.
Each of these modules are described in the following sections.
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The Amplifier PWB #1 (right) includes 31 quick-disconnect terminal posts and two 4-terminal
Molex connectors. The wire connection codes for this board are given in Table 3.1. The overall
component layout of the board is shown in Figure 3.1.
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The amplifier PWBs are connected to the chassis through the mounting holes for the vacuum
tubes. Additional supporting posts are provided at each corner of the board.
The tube sockets are conventional chassis-mounted devices, with jumper leads extending
from the active pins to the PWB. The sockets are held away from the PWB using standoffs. This
approach permits the sockets to be firmly mounted on the chassis, rather than being physically
supported by the PWB. This approach also keeps heat above the chassis and away from the PWB,
which can degrade over time due to excessive heat.
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Figure 3.1 Component layout for the Amplifier PWB #1 (right) board.
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The rectifier PWB includes 15 quick-disconnect terminal posts, The wire connection codes for
this board are given in Table 3.2.
The overall component layout of the rectifier PWB is shown in Figure 3.2.
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The Amplifier PWB #2 (left) includes 25 quick-disconnect terminal posts and two 4-terminal
Molex connectors. The wire connection codes for this board are given in Table 3.3.
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The overall component layout of the Amplifier #2 PWB (left) is shown in Figure 3.3.
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Figure 3.3 Component layout for the Amplifier PWB #2 (left) board.
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A small PWB is used at each of the speaker terminals to facilitate connection of the output
transformer secondary leads and for the feedback circuit. The left and right channel boards are
identical, except for placement of certain components to accommodate attachment to the rear
panel speaker barrier strips. The connection terminals are listed in Table 3.4.
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(a)
(b)
Figure 3.4 Layout of the speaker terminal PWB: (a) right channel board, (b) left channel board.
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The component layout of the power management board is shown in Figure 3.6.
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The power management expansion board adds additional functionality to the power management
module. The board mounts on the chassis side near the right channel amplifier PWB. Connection
details are given in Table 3.7.
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The component layout of the power management expansion board is shown in Figure 3.7.
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4 Construction Techniques
Most of the construction work on this amplifier involves populating the PWBs, and then
connecting the chassis-mounted devices to the various circuit boards.
There is no mystery to populating a PWB. Having said that, some general guidelines are
worth noting:
• Proceed in a logical manner, usually beginning with the smallest components; these are
typically resistors. Begin at R1 and move through to Rx.
• As each component is installed, check it off the list before moving on.
• Confirm the value of each component before it is installed on the PWB. While rare,
incorrect packaging or labeling of components can occur. Therefore, verify the marked
resistor and capacitor values before installation. If you are a bit rusty on the resistor color
codes, check the resistors with an ohmmeter. Capacitors can be checked with a
capacitance measurement bridge. While this is perhaps overkill, it is instructive to see the
variation in component values, which measurement before installation will reveal. The
resistor color code is shown in Figure 4.1.
• Observe proper polarity of devices such as electrolytic capacitors and diodes. A distinctive
pad usually denotes the positive terminal, in the case of an electrolytic. The silk screen
legend may also provide guidance.
• For devices that may dissipate some amount of heat, such as 5 W resistors, allow extra
lead space between the device and the board so as to keep the device above the board. This
will minimize heat-caused damage to the PWB and provide for better cooling of the
device. For resistors in the 2–5 W range, 1/4-inch should be sufficient. For higher-power
devices, more clearance should be provided.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
• Use only the amount of heat and solder necessary to do the job. Once a PWB is damaged
by excessive heat it is very difficult to repair. Excessive solder flux on the board will tend
to attract dust, which—at high voltages—can lead to arc-over problems.
• Inspect each solder connection to be certain that the mounting pad or via has been filled.
• Mount large components last. These typically include barrier strips and high-voltage
electrolytic capacitors.
All audio cables of length greater than about 6 inches should use shielded cable. Generally
speaking, the shield should be connected to ground at the load end. Grounding both ends of a
shielded cable to the same ground plane is not recommended as it may lead to circulating currents
that will adversely impact the noise floor.
Efficiently making the socket connections to the PWB requires a bit of practice. The
recommended procedure is detailed in Section 5. Be certain to wear protective eye glasses during
this process, and at other steps in PWB assembly.
The chassis is painted and the transformers are shipped painted. To ensure that the case of
each transformer is grounded, a ground lug is attached to each transformer. This is important for
safety reasons. While quite rare, transformer failures can occur. One failure mode can be a
shorting of one of the windings to the transformer case. By grounding the case, such a failure
would open the circuit breaker and prevent dangerous voltages above the chassis in a fault mode.
Because nearly all of the components are mounted on the PWBs, construction of the amplifier
is relatively straightforward. A decorative acrylic shield is supplied and can be used over the tubes
and transformers if desired.
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5 Step-by-Step Instructions
The following steps are recommended for assembly of the 20 W Stereo Amplifier. As each step is
completed, check it off the list. The project is divided into four major elements—assembly of the
amplifier boards, assembly of the preamplifier power supply board, assembly of the power
management board, and assembly of the chassis. Builders are encouraged to follow the specific
instructions provided in the following sections.
An examination of the shipping box will show that the parts for each sub-assembly are
contained in separate boxes. It is recommended that only one set of components be opened at a
time as this will reduce the possibility of component mix-ups.
Each section heading that follows marks a logical start/stop point in construction of the
amplifier. Do not rush through the project; instead, consider setting modest goals for progress
over a period of some days. A more relaxed pace often results in a better end-product, and a more
enjoyable overall experience.
Organize a work space that provides ample room and light. The following tools are minimally
required for assembly:
• Common screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Wire cutters
• Pliers
• Long-noise pliers
• Solderless terminal crimp tool
• 25–35 W soldering iron
• Solder
• Heat-shrink gun is recommended, although not strictly required.
While there are certainly a number of approaches to building a vacuum tube product, the
following procedure has proven to be efficient and repeatable.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Install the “quick-disconnect” male tabs using the pads provided on the amplifier board.
There are 31 positions in all. Solder in place.
– Install the quick-disconnect male tabs using the pads provided on the rectifier board.
There are 15 positions in all. Solder in place.
Note that the mounting pins fit tight into the board. This is normal. Use a pair of pliers to hold
the tab while inserting the pins into the PWB. Make sure the PWB is resting on a soft flat surface
while the tabs are installed. It is most efficient to install all of the tabs and then turn the board over
and solder in place. Be careful to not damage the board while installing the tabs. While not strictly
necessary, it is recommended that the flat side of the tab be oriented in the same direction for all
posts.
The proper procedure is illustrated in Figure 5.1.
Clean the soldering iron tip before moving on to the following steps.
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(a) (b)
(c) (d)
Figure 5.1 Recommended procedure for mounting the quick-disconnect tabs on the PWB: (a)
insert the tap using pliers and carefully work it into the board, (b) position the tab so it is
perpendicular to the board, (c) check to make certain that the mounting pins extend outside the
foil side of the board, (d) solder in place.
Caution: leads may tend to fly toward the face when they are cut. Wear protective glasses. For
all steps that follow, excess lead length should be trimmed after the component is soldered in
place.
– Install R4 – 825 Ω, 0.5 W. Solder in place. Note that the form factor of this component is
typically larger than a common 1/2-watt resistor. It may be necessary, therefore, to mount
this component about 1/8-inch above the PWB in order to accommodate the leads.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Install R6, R7 – 15 kΩ, 2 W, 1%. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance
above the board.
– Install R8 – 3.9 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the
board.
– Install R37, R51, R61 – 220 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance
above the board. R61 is located on the rectifier PWB.
– Install R65 – 100 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the
board. R65 is located on the rectifier PWB.
– Install D51 – rectifier, 2 A, 1 kV. This diode goes on the rectifier board. Solder in place,
providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the board. Be certain to observe proper polarity.
Note that the banded end of the diode connects to the square pad on the PWB. This same
convention is used for all other diodes.
– Install VR51 – power thermistor, 10 Ω cold. Solder in place, providing about 1/2-inch
clearance above the board.
– Install C2, C4, and C5 – 0.22 µF, 400 V, 5%. Solder in place.
– Find C3 – 3.3 pF, 1000 V, ceramic or mica. Set aside for now.
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– Install C52, C65 – 82 µF, 500 V electrolytic. Solder in place. Be certain to observe proper
polarity. C65 is located on the rectifier PWB.
– Install C54 – 10 µF, 100 V electrolytic. Solder in place. Be certain to observe proper
polarity.
– Install C69 – 47 µF, 100 V electrolytic, radial. Solder in place. Be certain to observe
proper polarity. C69 is located on the rectifier PWB.
– Find tubes V1, V2, and V3. Set them aside in a safe place. The tubes will be installed
during the final checkout process.
– Mount the two 4 terminal Molex contact headers at the Conn1 and Conn2 positions.
Solder in place. It may be necessary to hold the header in place from the component side
of the board until the first terminal is soldered.
– Mount the ten standoffs on the foil side of the amplifier board using the 4-40 hardware
provided. Use a lockwasher on the screw head (component side) of the board. Standoffs
are positioned at the four corners of the PWB and on each side of each tube socket. For the
standoff on the corner of the board adjacent to the GND terminal, use a #4 ground lug in
place of the lockwasher.
– Mount the six standoffs on the foil side of the rectifier board using the 4-40 hardware
provided. Use a lockwasher on the screw head (component side) of the board. Standoffs
are positioned at the four corners of the PWB and on each side of the tube socket. For the
standoff on the corner of the board adjacent to the GND terminal, use a #4 ground lug in
place of the lockwasher.
In the following steps the tube sockets will be installed and connected. These steps will
require a considerable amount of time and patience. Successful completion is critical to proper
operation of the amplifier.
– Mount the three sockets on their respective standoffs on the amplifier PWB. Pin 1 of the
socket can be identified by a number stamped on the bottom side of the socket. Pin 1 on
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
the PWB is identified by a square pad. Place the socket in the proper orientation over the
PWB so it rests on the standoffs. The top of the socket (the side the tube plugs into) should
face outward. Loosely tighten the mounting screws. See Figure 5.2a.
– Install connecting wires from the PWB pads to the tube socket pins. Solder in place.
Materials for these steps can be found in the “Tube Socket Hookup” package. Note that
only the active pins need be connected at the socket. The heater connections are made
separately for the amplifier tubes. The recommended procedure for installing the
connecting wires is as follows:
1) Feed a bare wire from the component side through the pad and into the socket
soldering tab.
2) Crimp in place (see Figure 5.2b).
3) From the component side, pull the wire tight and solder in place.
4) Trim the excess lead length.
5) Solder the socket tab.
Table 5.1 shows the pins that should be connected to the PWB.
– Repeat the connection process for each PWB-to-socket connection, being careful to match
up the right pad on the board with the right connection on the socket. (See Figure 5.2c.)
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(d)
Figure 5.2 Installation of sockets on the PWB: (a) mount the socket on the standoffs, (b) insert
connecting wires from the PWB to the socket, (c) board-to-socket connections completed, (d)
finished job with heater wires installed.
This is best done by starting at pin 1 on one side of the socket, and on pin 9 on the other
side.
The final step in assembly of the amplifier PWB is to make the heater connections to the three
sockets on the board. The following procedure is recommended.
– Identify pins 4 and 5 on the tube sockets. These pins are used for the heater connections.
– Unscrew and remove the standoff adjacent to pins 4 and 5 on each socket. This will
facilitate access to the pins.
– Open the “Heater Circuit Wire” package; cut one 9-inch piece of #22 green wire and one
9-inch piece of #22 brown wire.
– Place one piece of heat-shrink tubing over one end of each wire.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Crimp the green wire on pin 4 of V1. Solder in place. When soldering, make sure the heat-
shrink tubing is pushed back on the wire so it is not near the soldering point. If the heat-
shrink tubing gets hot it will be very difficult to slide into position later.
– Crimp the brown wire on pin 5 of V1. Solder in place, keeping in mind the caution about
the heat-shrink tubing.
– Slide the heat-shrink tubing into position at the base of the socket. Apply a stream of hot
air to shrink the tubing over the pins. Be careful to not apply too much heat.
– Replace the standoff removed from the V1 socket. The screws should be finger-tight.
Remember to include the lockwasher on the component side of the board. The heater leads
should straddle the standoff.
– Twist the wires together and route to socket V2 (see Figure 5.2d for placement). The wires
should be placed at socket-level. In this way they will be resting against the chassis when
the board is inserted in the chassis. Do not dress the wires against the PWB as this may
increase hum in the output of the amplifier.
– Trim the wire lengths as needed to comfortably reach V2. As before, slip a piece of heat-
shrink tubing over each wire. Crimp the brown wire on pin 5, and then crimp the green on
pin 4. Do not solder.
– Cut one 9-inch piece of #22 green wire and one 9-inch piece of #22 brown wire. Slip the
brown wire through the heat-shrink tubing on the lead already connected to pin 5 of V2.
Route the wire to the pin and crimp in place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away
from the hot wires and the soldering iron. Slip the green wire through the heat-shrink
tubing on the lead already connected to pin 4 of V2. Route the wire to the pin and crimp in
place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away from the hot wires and the soldering
iron.
– Slide the heat-shrink tubing into position at the base of the socket. Apply a stream of hot
air to shrink the tubing over the pins. Be careful to not use too much heat.
– Replace the standoff removed from the V2 socket. The screws should be finger-tight.
Remember to include the lockwasher on the component side of the board. The heater leads
should straddle the standoff.
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– Twist the wires together and route to socket V3 (see Figure 5.2d for placement). The wires
should be placed at socket-level. Do not dress the wires against the PWB.
– Trim the wire lengths as needed to comfortably reach V3. As before, slip a piece of heat-
shrink tubing over each wire. Crimp the brown wire on pin 5, and then crimp the green on
pin 4. Do not solder.
– Cut one 9-inch piece of #22 green wire and one 9-inch piece of #22 brown wire. Slip the
brown wire through the heat-shrink tubing on the lead already connected to pin 5 of V3.
Route the wire to the pin and crimp in place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away
from the hot wires and the soldering iron. Slip the green wire through the heat-shrink
tubing on the lead already connected to pin 4 of V3. Route the wire to the pin and crimp in
place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away from the hot wires and the soldering
iron.
– Slide the heat-shrink tubing into position at the base of the socket. Apply a stream of hot
air to shrink the tubing over the pins. Be careful to not use too much heat.
– Replace the standoff removed from the V3 socket. The screws should be finger-tight.
Remember to include the lockwasher on the component side of the board. The heater leads
should straddle the standoff.
– Twist the wires together and route to the 6V heater pads on the PWB (see Figure 5.2d for
placement). The wires should be placed at socket-level. Do not dress the wires against the
PWB.
– Trim the wire lengths as needed to comfortably reach the pads on the foil side of the
board. Insert the green wire into the 6V heater pad adjacent to the 6VH1 post. Solder from
the component side of the board. Insert the brown wire into the 6V heater pad adjacent to
the 6VH2 post. Solder from the component side of the board.
– Mount relay RYL51 using the #4 hardware provided. Be careful to not over-tighten the
mounting nuts. The tabs on the relays are somewhat brittle and can break under excessive
pressure.
– Find tubes V1, V2, and V3. Set them aside in a safe place. The tubes will be installed
during the final checkout process. Be very careful when handing the tubes.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
The following components should be set aside for use in building the right channel speaker
terminal PWB:
• R13 – 8.2 kΩ, 0.5 W
• R14, R15 – 4 Ω, 10 W
• R16, R17 – 27 Ω, 2 W
• R47 – 5 kΩ, 0.75 W, potentiometer, trimmer
• R49 – 10 k Ω, 0.5 W
• R66 – 270 Ω, 2 W
• R67 – 150 Ω, 0.5 W
• C6 – 200 pF, 1000 V, ceramic or mica
• D1 – 1 A 600 V diode
• RYL1 – DPST 24 V dc relay with socket
• 5 quick-disconnect male terminals
• One 4-pin Molex housing/header, 0.1 pitch
• One 4-pin Molex housing/header, 0.156 pitch
• Speaker terminals PWB
If desired, a single light coat of acrylic conformal coating (MG Chemicals #419C-340G) may
be applied to the foil side of the amplifier and rectifier PWBs. Use masking tape to cover the face
of the tube sockets.
Assembly of the 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #1 (Right Channel) now been completed. The
finished board is shown in Figure 5.3. Check the PWB for proper installation of all components.
Look for bad solder connections or solder splash that might cause a short-circuit.
Set the amplifier and rectifier boards aside; they will be used later.
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(a)
(b)
(c) (d)
Figure 5.3 Completed 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #1 module: (a) amplifier component side, (b)
amplifier foil side, (c) rectifier component side, (d) rectifier foil side.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Install the “quick disconnect” male tabs using the pads provided on the board. There are
25 positions in all. Solder in place.
Note that the mounting pins fit tight into the board. This is normal. Use a pair of pliers to hold
the tab while inserting the pins into the PWB. Make sure the PWB is resting on a soft flat surface
while the tabs are installed. It is most efficient to install all of the tabs and then turn the board over
and solder in place. Be careful to not damage the board while installing the tabs. While not strictly
necessary, it is recommended that the flat side of the tab be oriented so as to face the same
direction for all posts.
The proper procedure is illustrated in Figure 5.1.
Clean the soldering iron tip before moving on to the following steps.
Caution: leads may tend to fly toward the face when they are cut. Wear protective glasses. For
all steps that follow, excess lead length should be trimmed after the component is soldered in
place.
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– Install R21 – 825 Ω, 0.5 W. Solder in place. Note that the form factor of this component is
typically larger than a common 1/2-watt resistor. It may be necessary, therefore, to mount
this component about 1/8-inch above the PWB in order to accommodate the leads.
– Install R23, R24 – 15 kΩ, 2 W, 1%. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance
above the board.
– Install R25, R58 – 3.9 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above
the board.
– Install R42, R52 – 220 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance
above the board.
– Install R53 – 270 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the
board.
– Install R54, R56 – 47 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above
the board.
– Install R59 – 270 Ω, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the
board.
– Install R60 – 3.9 Ω, 2 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the
board.
– Install C8, C10, C11 – 0.22 µF, 400 V, 5%. Solder in place.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Find C9 – 3.3 pF, 1000 V, ceramic or mica. Set aside for now.
– Install C18, C55, C57, C60, C62 – 0.01 µF disc, 1 kV. Solder in place.
– Install C56 – 82 µF, 500 V. electrolytic. Bend the pins to provide a good mechanical and
electrical connection. Solder in place. Be certain to observe proper polarity.
– Install C58, C59 – 10 µF, 100 V. electrolytic. Solder in place. Be certain to observe proper
polarity.
– Install C61 – 100 µF, 100 V. electrolytic. Solder in place. Be certain to observe proper
polarity.
– Install C63, C64 – 1000 µF, 25 V. electrolytic. Solder in place. Be certain to observe
proper polarity.
– Install D52 – rectifier, 2 A, 1 kV. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance
above the board. Be certain to observe proper polarity. Note that the banded end of the
diode connects to the square pad on the PWB
– Install D53 – zener, 60 V, 5 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above
the board. Be certain to observe proper polarity.
– Install D54 – zener, 56 V, 5 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above
the board. Be certain to observe proper polarity.
– Install CR51 – bridge rectifier, 100 V, 2 A. Solder in place, providing about 1/2-inch
clearance above the board. Be certain to observe proper polarity. The positive terminal
goes to the square pad.
– Find VR3 – varistor, 18 V dc. Set this component aside; it will be installed later.
– Mount the two 4 terminal Molex contact headers at the Conn3 and Conn4 positions.
Solder in place. It may be necessary to hold the header in place from the component side
of the board until the first terminal is soldered.
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– Mount the ten standoffs on the foil side of the board using 4-40 hardware provided. Use a
lockwasher on the screw head (component side) of the board. Standoffs are positioned at
the four corners of the PWB and on either side of each tube socket. The standoffs should
be finger-tight against the board. For the standoff in the corner of the PWB adjacent to the
B+Sense terminal, use a #4 ground lug in place of the lockwasher.
In the following steps the tube sockets will be installed and connected. These steps will
require a considerable amount of time and patience. Successful completion is critical to proper
operation of the amplifier.
– Mount the three sockets on their respective standoffs. Pin 1 of the socket can be identified
by a number stamped on the bottom side of the socket. Pin 1 on the PWB is identified by a
square pad. Place the socket in the proper orientation over the PWB so it rests on the
standoffs. The top of the socket (the side the tube plugs into) should face outward. Loosely
tighten the mounting screws. See Figure 5.2a.
– Install connecting wires from the PWB pads to the tube socket pins. Solder in place.
Materials for these steps can be found in the “Tube Socket Hookup” package. Note that
the PWB contains pads only for the active pins used on the socket. The heater connections
are made separately. The recommended procedure for installing the connecting wires is as
follows:
1) Feed a bare wire from the component side through the pad and into the socket
soldering tab.
2) Crimp in place (see Figure 5.2b).
3) From the component side, pull the wire tight and solder in place
4) Trim the excess lead length.
5) Solder the socket tab.
Table 5.2 shows the pins that should be connected to the PWB.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Repeat the connection process for each PWB-to-socket connection, being careful to match
up the right pad on the board with the right connection on the socket. (See Figure 5.2c.)
This is best done by starting at pin 1 on one side of the socket, and on pin 9 on the other
side.
The last task is to make the heater connections to the three sockets on the PWB. The following
procedure is recommended.
– Identify pins 4 and 5 on the tube sockets. These pins are used for the heater connections.
– Unscrew and remove the standoff adjacent to pins 4 and 5 on each socket. This will
facilitate access to the pins.
– Open the “Heater Circuit Wire” package; cut one 9-inch piece of #22 green wire and one
9-inch piece of #22 brown wire.
– Place one piece of heat-shrink tubing over one end of each wire.
– Crimp the green wire on pin 4 of V4. Solder in place. When soldering, make sure the heat-
shrink tubing is pushed back on the wire so it is not near the soldering point. If the heat-
shrink tubing gets hot it will be very difficult to slide into position later.
– Crimp the brown wire on pin 5 of V4. Solder in place, keeping in mind the caution about
the heat-shrink tubing.
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– Slide the heat-shrink tubing into position at the base of the socket. Apply a stream of hot
air to shrink the tubing over the pins. Be careful to not apply too much heat.
– Replace the standoff removed from the V4 socket. The screws should be finger-tight.
Remember to include the lockwasher on the component side of the board. The heater leads
should straddle the standoff.
– Twist the wires together and route to socket V5 (see Figure 5.2d for placement). The wires
should be placed at socket-level. In this way they will be resting against the chassis when
the board is inserted in the chassis. Do not dress the wires against the PWB as this may
increase hum in the output of the amplifier.
– Trim the wire lengths as needed to comfortably reach V5. As before, slip a piece of heat-
shrink tubing over each wire. Crimp the brown wire on pin 5, and then crimp the green on
pin 4. Do not solder.
– Cut one 9-inch piece of #22 green wire and one 9-inch piece of #22 brown wire. Slip the
brown wire through the heat-shrink tubing on the lead already connected to pin 5 of V5.
Route the wire to the pin and crimp in place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away
from the hot wires and the soldering iron. Slip the green wire through the heat-shrink
tubing on the lead already connected to pin 4 of V5. Route the wire to the pin and crimp in
place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away from the hot wires and the soldering
iron.
– Slide the heat-shrink tubing into position at the base of the socket. Apply a stream of hot
air to shrink the tubing over the pins. Be careful to not use too much heat.
– Replace the standoff removed from the V5 socket. The screws should be finger-tight.
Remember to include the lockwasher on the component side of the board. The heater leads
should straddle the standoff.
– Twist the wires together and route to socket V6 (see Figure 5.2d for placement). The wires
should be placed at socket-level. Do not dress the wires against the PWB.
– Trim the wire lengths as needed to comfortably reach V6. As before, slip a piece of heat-
shrink tubing over each wire. Crimp the brown wire on pin 5, and then crimp the green on
pin 4. Do not solder.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Cut one 9-inch piece of #22 green wire and one 9-inch piece of #22 brown wire. Slip the
brown wire through the heat-shrink tubing on the lead already connected to pin 5 of V6.
Route the wire to the pin and crimp in place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away
from the hot wires and the soldering iron. Slip the green wire through the heat-shrink
tubing on the lead already connected to pin 4 of V6. Route the wire to the pin and crimp in
place. Solder, keeping the heat-shrink tubing away from the hot wires and the soldering
iron.
– Slide the heat-shrink tubing into position at the base of the socket. Apply a stream of hot
air to shrink the tubing over the pins. Be careful to not use too much heat.
– Replace the standoff removed from the V6 socket. The screws should be finger-tight.
Remember to include the lockwasher on the component side of the board. The heater leads
should straddle the standoff.
– Twist the wires together and route to the 6V heater pads on the PWB (see Figure 5.2d for
placement). The wires should be placed at socket-level. Do not dress the wires against the
PWB.
– Trim the wire lengths as needed to comfortably reach the pads on the foil side of the
board. Insert the green wire into the 6V heater pad adjacent to the 6VH1 post. Solder from
the component side of the board. Insert the brown wire into the 6V heater pad adjacent to
the 6VH2 post. older from the component side of the board.
– Find tubes V4, V5, and V6. Set them aside in a safe place. The tubes will be installed
during the final checkout process.
The following components should be set aside for use in building the left channel speaker
terminal PWB:
• R30 – 8.2 kΩ, 0.5 W
• R31, R32 – 4 Ω, 10 W
• R33, R34 – 27 Ω, 2 W
• R48 – 5 kΩ, 0.75 W, potentiometer, trimmer
• R50 – 10 k Ω, 0.5 W
• R68 – 270 Ω, 2 W
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
(a)
(b)
Figure 5.4 Completed 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #2 (Left Channel): (a) component side, (b)
foil side.
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– Install the “quick disconnect” male tabs using the pads provided on the board. There are 5
positions in all. Solder in place.
Note that the mounting pins fit tight into the board. This is normal. Use a pair of pliers to hold
the tab while inserting the pins into the PWB. Make sure the PWB is resting on a soft flat surface
while the tabs are installed. It is most efficient to install all of the tabs and then turn the board over
and solder in place. Be careful to not damage the board while installing the tabs. While not strictly
necessary, it is recommended that the flat side of the tab be oriented so as to face the same
direction for all posts.
The proper procedure is illustrated in Figure 5.1.
Clean the soldering iron tip before moving on to the following steps.
– Install R301 – 5 kΩ, 10 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/2-inch clearance above the
board.
Caution: leads may tend to fly toward the face when they are cut. Wear protective glasses. For
all steps that follow, excess lead length should be trimmed after the component is soldered in
place.
– Install R302, R305 – 220 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/2-inch clearance
above the board.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
– Install R303 – 270 Ω, 2 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/2-inch clearance above the
board.
– Install C301 – 82 µF, 500 V electrolytic. Bend the pins to provide a good mechanical and
electrical connection. Solder in place, observing proper polarity. The positive terminal of
the device connects to the square pad on the PWB. This same convention is used for all
other electrolytic capacitors on the board.
– Install C306 – 1000 µF, 50 V electrolytic, radial. Solder in place, observing proper
polarity.
– Install D301, D302 – Zener, 200 V, 5 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/4-inch
clearance above the board. Observe proper polarity. Note that the cathode (banded) end
goes to the square pad on the PWB. This convention is used for all diodes on the
preamplifier board.
– Install D303 – Diode, 1 A, 600 V. Solder in place, leaving about 1/4-inch clearance above
the board. Observe proper polarity.
– Install Q301 – NTE5410 SCR. Install the push-on heatsink and then solder in place, being
careful to properly orient the device. Use the legend printed on the PWB and the legend
provided on the packaging as a guide.
– Install the socket for relay RYL301. Be certain to properly orient the socket. Solder in
place.
– Install the two fuse holders. Guide the connection pins through the PWB and solder.
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– Install the 0.1 A fuse (F301). Install in the socket for F301.
– Install the 6.3 A fuse (F302). Install in the socket for F302.
– Install connector Conn301. Note that the locking lip should line up with the heavy line on
the PWB legend. Solder in place.
– Mount the seven standoffs on the foil side of the board using 4-40 hardware provided. Use
a lockwasher on the screw head (component side) of the board. Standoffs are positioned at
the four corners and lower center of the PWB. For the standoff in the upper left portion of
the board, use a #4 ground lug in place of the lockwasher. Tighten.
– Find the auxiliary power connector hardware. Set this package aside; it will be used later
to build the preamplifier power supply cable (if used).
If desired, a single light coat of acrylic conformal coating (MG Chemicals #419C-340G) may
be applied to the foil side of the board. In addition, brush-applied acrylic conformal coating (MG
Chemicals #419C-55ML) may be applied the B+ terminal on the preamplifier power supply
PWB. Using the brush provided, apply a light coat at the base of the quick-disconnect terminal
post so that it covers the immediate vicinity of the PWB pad.
Assembly of the preamplifier power supply PWB has now been completed. Check the board
for proper installation of all components. Look for bad solder connections or solder splash that
might cause a short-circuit.The finished board are shown in Figure 5.5.
Set the preamplifier power supply board aside; it will be used later.
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(a)
(b)
Figure 5.5 Completed preamplifier power supply PWBs: (a) component side, (b) foil side.
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– Install the “quick disconnect” male tabs using the pads provided on the board. There are
13 positions in all. Solder in place.
Note that the mounting pins fit tight into the board. This is normal. Use a pair of pliers to hold
the tab while inserting the pins into the PWB. Make sure the PWB is resting on a soft flat surface
while the tabs are installed. It is most efficient to install all of the tabs and then turn the board over
and solder in place. Be careful to not damage the board while installing the tabs. While not strictly
necessary, it is recommended that the flat side of the tab be oriented in the same direction for all
posts.
Clean the soldering iron tip before moving on to the following steps.
Caution: leads may tend to fly toward the face when they are cut. Wear protective glasses. For
all steps that follow, excess lead length should be trimmed after the component is soldered in
place.
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– Install R209 – 2 mΩ, PC-mount potentiometer. Solder in place. Set the device for center
position.
– Install R210 – 150 Ω, 2 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/4-inch spacing above the
board.
– Install R216 – 10 Ω, 2 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/4-inch spacing above the board.
– Install C201 – 220 µF, 25 V electrolytic. Solder in place, observing proper polarity. Note
that the positive terminal is denoted by the square mounting pad.
– Install C204, C205 – 1,000 µF, 50 V, electrolytic. Solder in place, observing proper
polarity.
– Install C207 – 500 µF, 25 V electrolytic. Solder in place, observing proper polarity.
Note that D201 and the other semiconductors installed in the steps that follow are sensitive to
static discharge. Take appropriate measures to minimize the possibility of component damage due
to static electricity. Note that the electrostatic protection packaging may not be recyclable.
– Install D201 – 100 V switching diode. Solder in place, observing proper polarity. Note
that the anode terminal is denoted by the square mounting pad. This convention is used for
all diodes.
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– Install D202, D204, D205, D206 – Rectifier diode, 1 A, 600 V. Solder in place, observing
proper polarity
– D207 – Zener, 15 V, 5 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the
board. Be certain to observe proper polarity.
– D208 – Zener, 22 V, 1 W. Solder in place, providing about 1/4-inch clearance above the
board. Be certain to observe proper polarity.
– Install VR201, VR202, VR203, VR204 – Varistor, 130 V ac. Solder in place.
– Install the press-on heat sinks on Q203 and Q206. Note that one side of the heat sink is
split. Using a small screwdriver, spread the fins slightly while pushing the heat sink on to
the device.
– Install Q203, Q206 – C9F (NTE5408). Solder in place. Be certain to properly align the
leads of the device. Make certain the heat sink does not touch any other exposed
conductive components.
– Install Q204 – 2N406 (NTE102A). Solder in place. Be certain to properly align the leads
of the device.
– Install Q205 – 2N3053 (NTE128). Solder in place. Be certain to properly align the leads
of the device.
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– Find SW202 – SPST toggle switch. Set this device aside. It will be used later. This device
is installed on the front panel.
– Find SW203 – High temp thermostat. Set this device aside. It will be installed later.
– Install the sockets for the five plug-in relays. Solder in place.
– Install RYL201, RYL203, RYL205 – DPDT, 10A, 24 V dc. Make certain to install the 24
V dc relays in the proper sockets. Refer to the legends printed on the PWB.
– Install RYL202, RYL204 – DPDT, 10 A, 120 V ac, relay. Make certain to install the 120
V ac relays in the proper sockets. Refer to the legends printed on the PWB.
Important: If the 120 V ac relays and 24 V dc relays are not in their proper positions,
component damage will result.
Examine the fuse holder. Some devices have a small plastic pin protruding from the mounting
side. This pin must be clipped off or the holder will not mount flat against the PWB.
– Install the fuse holder using the #4 hardware provided. Use short bare connecting wires
from the terminals to the pads on the PWB. Solder in place. Tighten the set screw (do not
over-tighten).
A method that works well for the above step is to first mount the fuse block with the hardware
finger-tight. Then feed the bare wire up from the foil side of the board and affix it to the terminal.
Solder and then repeat for the other side of the component. Finally, tighten the mounting screw.
– Find the 2.5-inch long mounting standoffs. Set aside for now. They will be installed later.
If desired, a single light coat of acrylic conformal coating (MG Chemicals #419C-340G) may
be applied to the foil side of the board. In addition, brush-applied acrylic conformal coating (MG
Chemicals #419C-55ML) may be applied the B+Sense terminal on the preamplifier power supply
PWB. Using the brush provided, apply a light coat at the base of the quick-disconnect terminal
post so that it covers the immediate vicinity of the PWB pad.
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(a) (b)
Figure 5.6 Power management PWB: (a) component side, (b) foil side.
Assembly of the power management PWB has now been completed. Double-check your
work. The completed PWB is shown in Figure 5.6.
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– Install the “quick disconnect” male tabs using the pads provided on the board. There are 9
positions in all. Solder in place.
Note that the mounting pins fit tight into the board. This is normal. Use a pair of pliers to hold
the tab while inserting the pins into the PWB. Make sure the PWB is resting on a soft flat surface
while the tabs are installed. It is most efficient to install all of the tabs and then turn the board over
and solder in place. Be careful to not damage the board while installing the tabs. While not strictly
necessary, it is recommended that the flat side of the tab be oriented in the same direction for all
posts.
Clean the soldering iron tip before moving on to the following steps.
– Install R402, R408 — 5 kΩ, potentiometer, trimmer. Solder in place. Set for mid point.
– Install R404, R410, R413, R414, R419, R420, R423, R425 – 100 kΩ, 0.5 W. Solder in
place.
– Install R415, R416 – 1 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/4-inch spacing above the
board.
– Install R418 — 1 MΩ, potentiometer, trimmer. Solder in place. Set for fully clockwise.
– Install R421, R422 – 100 kΩ, 2 W. Solder in place, leaving about 1/4-inch spacing above
the board.
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– Install C401, C402, C409, C410 – 47 µF, 50 V electrolytic, radial. Solder in place,
observing proper polarity. Note that the positive terminal is denoted by the square
mounting pad.
– Install C403 – 250 µF, 25 V electrolytic. Solder in place, observing proper polarity.
– Install C404 – 1000 µF, 50 V electrolytic. Solder in place, observing proper polarity.
– Install C406 – 100 µF, 100 V electrolytic. Solder in place, observing proper polarity.
– Install D401, D402, D409 – 100 V switching diode. Solder in place, observing proper
polarity. Note that the anode terminal is denoted by the square mounting pad. This
convention is used for all diodes.
– Install D403, D406, D407 – Rectifier diode, 1 A, 600 V. Solder in place, observing
proper polarity.
– Install Q401, Q402, Q403, Q405, Q406 – 2N3053 (NTE128). Solder in place. Be certain
to properly align the leads of the device.
– Install Q404 – NTE129. Solder in place. Be certain to properly align the leads of the
device.
– Install RYL402 – DPDT, 10 A, 24 V dc, relay, socket mount. Solder the socket in place,
and then install the relay.
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– Mount the six standoffs on the foil side of the board using the 4-40 hardware provided.
Use a lockwasher on the screw head (component side) of the board. Standoffs are
positioned at the four corners and center of the PWB.For the standoff adjacent to SW401,
use a ground lug instead of a lockwasher.
– Install SW401 – Switch, roller, snap-action using the #4 hardware provided. The roller
should rest above the top edge of the board, facing the center portion of the PWB.
– Prepare a two 2-inch #22 yellow wire. Insert one end of the wire into an SW401
connection point on the board. Solder. Secure the other end of the wire to the arm terminal
on SW401. Solder. See the switch body for the connection legend.
– Prepare a two 2-inch #22 yellow wire. Insert one end of the wire into the remaining
SW401 connection point on the board. Solder. Secure the other end of the wire to the
normally open terminal on SW401. Solder. See the switch body for the connection legend.
If desired, a single light coat of acrylic conformal coating (MG Chemicals #419C-340G) may
be applied to the foil side of the board.
The completed power management expansion PWB is shown in Figure 5.7.
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(a)
(b)
Figure 5.7 Power management expansion PWB: (a) component side, (b) foil side.
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– Find the side chassis handles and install using the #8 hardware provided. Use the handles
during the following construction steps to ensure a good grip on the chassis.
– Find the chassis bottom plate and feet hardware. Install the feet at the four corners of the
bottom plate using the hardware provided. Note that four self-tapping #6 screws are
provided. Save these for the final step of assembly—mounting the bottom plate to the
chassis.
The estimated time for completion of the following steps is about 10 hours. The chassis and
final assembly process is divided into a number of sub-sections, allowing the builder to proceed at
a measured pace. A full-size image of the completed chassis (bottom view) is provided. Refer to
this image as you complete the steps that follow.
A few general comments on wiring are appropriate at this point. The chassis accommodates a
number of cable clamps to organize wiring within the amplifier. In general, the following
guidelines apply:
• Cable clamps are provided on each side of the chassis (2 each side) to accommodate audio
cabling for the right and left channel amplifiers. The cables are: 1) input, and 2) feedback.
• Cable clamps are provided in the center of the chassis to accommodate the interconnection
of the various circuit boards. In general, wiring follows a U-shape, beginning at the front
panel, looping near the rear portion of the chassis, and returning to the front panel.
• Wiring for transformers is typically direct—leads go directly from the transformer to the
connection terminal.
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– Install the front panel handles using the #8 hardware provided. Be careful to not scratch
the finish. Note that the front panel handles are decorative and should not be used to move
the amplifier after it has been completed.
– Find SW52, the Speaker On/Off switch. There are two nuts provided; only one will be
used. Place the lockwasher provided on the shaft. Note that one side of the mounting shaft
has a key; this key should face upward. Insert the switch into the chassis and then fit the
front panel onto the shaft. Use one of the nuts to secure the switch/chassis/panel assembly.
Do not tighten.
– Find SW202, the Auto-Off enable/disable switch. There are two nuts provided; only one
will be used. Place the lockwasher provided on the shaft. Note that one side of the
mounting shaft has a key; this key should face downward. Insert the switch into the
chassis and then fit the front panel onto the shaft. Use one of the nuts to secure the switch/
chassis/panel assembly. Do not tighten.
– Install R35, the right channel Volume control – 100 kΩ, potentiometer, panel mount.
Using a pair of long-nose pliers, bend the three terminals slightly toward the back of the
potentiometer. Note that there is a key tab at the base of the potentiometer. Using the
pliers, bend this tab down toward the face of the component so it is out of the way. Mount
R35 as follows. Place a lockwasher on the shaft and feed the component through the
chassis/front panel. Install a lockwasher and then a flat washer on the shaft. Secure with
the nut provided. Do not tighten. The terminals of the potentiometers should face
downward toward the chassis bottom plate.
– Install R36, the left channel Volume control – 100 kΩ, potentiometer, panel mount.
Using a pair of long-nose pliers, bend the three terminals slightly toward the back of the
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potentiometer. Note that there is a key tab at the base of the potentiometer. Using the
pliers, bend this tab down toward the face of the component so it is out of the way. Mount
R35 as follows. Mount R35 as follows. Place a lockwasher on the shaft and feed the
component through the chassis/front panel. Install a lockwasher and then a flat washer on
the shaft. Secure with the flat washer and nut provided. Do not tighten. The terminals of
the potentiometers should face downward toward the chassis bottom plate.
– Examine the 1/4-inch headphone jack. Note that one side is keyed at a 45-degree angle.
This edge denotes the common (ground) connection. The keyed edge should face toward
the bottom of the chassis. Mount the 1/4-inch headphone jack to the chassis/panel. Secure
using the nut provided. Do not tighten.
– Mount the power switch (SW51) to the front panel as follows. Unscrew the push-button
from the device. Remove the mounting nut from the shaft of the switch. Leave the fiber
washer and lockwasher in place. Mount the switch to the chassis/panel and secure using
the nut provided. Do not tighten. Note the connection terminals on the switch. The center
screw terminal should face toward the chassis bottom plate.
– Mount pilot lamp PL51 as follows. Thread the large mounting nut on the pilot lamp and
run down to the base of the threads. Place the lockwasher provided on the shaft. Mount the
pilot lamp to the chassis/panel and secure with the decorative nut provided. Run the
decorative nut down to be approximately flush with the mounting shaft. From the
underside of the chassis, spin the large mounting nut up toward the chassis and tighten.
– Using caution to not scratch the finish, tighten the front panel potentiometer mounting
nuts. Check to make sure the terminals of the potentiometers are facing downward toward
the chassis bottom plate. When tightening the nuts, do not use excessive force as this may
strip the threads and leave the component unusable.
– Using caution to not scratch the finish, tighten the headphone jack nut. It is often best to
tighten the jacks by holding the mounting nut steady and turning the body of the device
from the chassis side. This will reduce the possibility of scratching the font panel finish.
The keyed side of the 1/4-inch jack should face downward toward the bottom of the
chassis.
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– Using caution to not scratch the finish, tighten the power switch SW51. Do not over-
tighten, as the shaft is made of plastic. Reinstall the top push-button switch. Try the switch
to confirm proper operation.
– Tighten the Speaker on/off switch SW52 and Auto-Off enable/disable switch SW202. It is
often best to tighten the switch by holding the mounting nut steady and turning the body of
the device from the chassis side. This will reduce the possibility of scratching the font
panel finish.
– Install the 35 mm jack in the available Headphone opening on the front panel. Secure
using the hardware provided.
– Install knobs on the Volume potentiometers. Using a small common screwdriver, run the
set screw out so the knob will fit on the shaft. Set the potentiometer to the full
counterclockwise position. Place the knob on the shaft and set to the 7 o’clock position
(approximately). Tighten the set screw.
The front panel components have been installed. The completed front panel is shown in
Figure 5.8.
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(a) (b)
Figure 5.9 Installation of the ground lug terminal: (a) inside chassis, (b) outside chassis.
• AC power connector
• Auxiliary power connector
• Ground lug hardware
• Back panel decal
– Mount the two RCA input jacks using the #4 hardware provided. Orient the components
so the ground lug faces downward toward the chassis bottom plate.
– Mount the ground lug terminal. Place the four ground lugs on to the 3/4-inch long #6
screw provided. Using a pair of long-nose pliers, bend the ends of the lug upward (toward
the head of the screw). Insert the screw into the back panel hole so the screw protrudes out
of the back chassis. Install a lockwasher on the screw, and then the lock-tight nut. Spread
the ground lugs on the inside of the chassis so they can be used individually. Tighten the
lock-tight nut. Install two flat washers on the screw and then the wing nut. Tighten the
wing nut finger-tight. The finished installation is shown in Figure 5.9.
– Install circuit breaker CB51 using the hardware provided. Position the device so the
number rating is properly oriented when viewed from the rear. Run the decorative nut
down so it is flush with the mounting shaft. Use the chassis-side nut to tighten the
component in place.
– Mount the speaker output terminal strips, TG1 and TB2. Install the right channel terminal
strip and secure with the #4 hardware provided. Repeat for the left channel terminal strip.
Make sure that the mounting screws do not extend beyond the #4 nut. Trim the screw
length as needed.
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– Mount the AC power connector using the hardware provided. The socket mounting pad
rests against the outside of the back panel. The connector should be oriented so ground
connector is closest to the chassis bottom plate.
– Install the back panel decal. The top of the decal is aligned with the top of the chassis.
Find the auxiliary power female socket connectors in the Auxiliary Power Connector Hardware
package. Examine the pin numbers on the connector. As each wire is inserted in the following
steps, make sure it clicks in place; then check the pin number to make sure it has been inserted in
the correct hole. This is critically important. Equipment damage may result if the following
connections are not made correctly.
– Cut one 6-inch piece of medium expandable sleeving. Cut two pieces of medium heat-
shrink tubing, each about 3/4-inch long. In the following steps, nine wires will be prepared
and inserted into the auxiliary power connector. These wires should first be threaded
through the sleeving and tubing.
– Prepare a 10-inch long #22 black wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on one end
and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the expandable
sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #1 on the auxiliary power connector. Leave
the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare a 10.25-inch long #22 white wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on one
end and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the
expandable sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #2 on the auxiliary power
connector. Leave the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare a 10.5-inch long #22 white wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on one
end and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the
expandable sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #3 on the auxiliary power
connector. Leave the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare a 10.75-inch long #22 red 600 V wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on
one end and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the
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expandable sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #4 on the auxiliary power
connector. Leave the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare an 11-inch long #18 green wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on one end
and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the expandable
sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #5 on the auxiliary power connector. Leave
the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare an 11.25-inch long #18 green wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on one
end and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the
expandable sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #6 on the auxiliary power
connector. Leave the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare an 11.5-inch long #22 blue wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on one
end and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the
expandable sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #7 on the auxiliary power
connector. Leave the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare an 11.75-inch long #22 blue wire. Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) on one
end and a female socket connector on the other end. Thread the wire through the
expandable sleeving. Insert the female socket to position #8 on the auxiliary power
connector. Leave the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Prepare a 3-inch long #18 black wire. Attach a female socket connector on one end. Do
not thread the wire through the expandable sleeving. Insert the female socket to position
#9 on the auxiliary power connector. Leave the other end free; it will be connected later.
– Compress the expandable sleeving toward the power connector end. Loosely twist the two
#18 green wires along their length. Loosely twist the two #22 white wires along their
length.
– Stretch the expandable sleeving along the length of the cable bundle. Position the heat-
shrink tubing at each end of the sleeving and process (heat). Be careful to focus the heat on
the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving (which may melt if exposed to too much heat).
– Feed the wire bundle into the chassis from the rear panel.
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– Mount the external power supply connector using the #4 hardware provided. The socket
mounting pad rests against the outside of the back panel. Note the pin numbers printed on
the connector side of the socket. Orient the socket so the lettering is upright when viewed
from the rear panel. Set the companion plug and terminals aside. They will be installed
later.
– Collect the free end of the wiring harness. Insert the Molex terminals into the 8-pin Molex
housing as follows:
Some of the cable clamp mounting screws will not be accessible after the PWBs have been
installed. Therefore, they need to be installed first. Three of the screws that hold the cable clamps
also serve as mounting posts for the acrylic cover.
See the chassis layout drawing in Figure 5.11. Note the locations of the cable clamps. Note
also that three cable clamp positions are also identified as acrylic cover mounting posts.
– Find the cable clamp hardware package. There are ten sets in this package. Install the
cable clamps using the #6 hardware provided for the six single-purpose cable clamps
(those not designated as also a acrylic cover mounting post). Note that the flat washer
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should be positioned between the cable clamp and the lockwasher/nut. Orient the cable
clamps as shown in Figure 5.11.
– Find the three cable clamps that are also used to mount the acrylic trim piece. There are
three sets of hardware. Install using the hardware provided. Orient the cable clamps as
shown in Figure 5.11. The proper order of hardware is as follows (from bottom of chassis
to top): screw head (6-32 x 3/8) / flat washer / cable clamp / chassis / lockwasher / standoff
/ chrome spacer / flat washer / screw head (6-32 x 3/4). The acrylic cover will be installed
later.
– Examine FL51, the AC line filter. Note there are two chassis mounting tabs. One tab also
serves as a standoff for the acrylic cover. Note also one end of the device is marked “line.”
This end should face the rear panel.
– Secure the rear-facing end of FL51 using the #6 hardware provided. Include a ground lug
between the mounting tab and the nut on the Line side. Note that the mounting tab may be
notched to permit easier assembly. With a notch in the mounting tab, the screw / ground
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0.13-in 0.13-in
Neutrix NF2D
Neutrix NF2D
TE shell 17
Side view
Side view
Speaker PWB Speaker PWB
CB51
L51
R55
Hum Bal
Hammond 193L
0.2-in 0.2-in
0.5-in 0.5-in
0.5-in
Qualtek RFI Filter
0.2-in
FL51 Hammond 1620A Hammond 1620A
0.188-in
Hammond 378X
Cable clamp
Cable clamp
Cable clamp
Cable clamp
Also mounting
Also mounting Cable clamp
Cable clamp
point for Plexiglas
point for Plexiglas
cover
cover
Figure 5.11 Chassis layout (bottom view). It is difficult to read this drawing at this size. Refer to
the full-size copy provided in the chassis box. For simplicity, the power management PWB is not
shown in this diagram.
lug / nut can be started and then the device tab slid in place. Leave the nut finger-tight for
now.
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– Install the front-facing hardware for filter FL51, which should be oriented as follows:
screw head (6-32 x 3/8) / flat washer / FL51 mounting tab / chassis / lockwasher / standoff
/ flat washer / screw head (6-32 x 3/4). The acrylic cover will be installed later. As with
the other mounting tab, the front-facing tab may be notched for easier assembly. After
both mounting screws of FL51 have been installed, tighten both.
The following steps require patience. Do not force the boards and tube sockets into position, but
rather work them in carefully and slowly.
– Locate the Amplifier PWB #1 (right) assembly. Remove the screws that secure the sockets
to the standoffs, and remove the screws in the standoffs at the four corners of the PWB (if
present). Set these in a convenient place.
– Check the heater wiring on the foil side of the board. Position so the wiring will rest
against the chassis when secured in place.
– Carefully place the right channel amplifier PWB in position from the underside of the
chassis.
– Install the six 4-40 x 3/8-inch mounting screws from the top of the chassis to the socket
standoffs on the circuit board. Some adjustment may be needed for the sockets to achieve
proper alignment. After the sockets are in position, install the four screws for the four
standoffs at the corners of the PWB. Do not tighten the screws until all screws have been
threaded and the sockets properly extend through the chassis cutouts so they are flush with
the top of the chassis.
– Locate the Amplifier PWB #2 (left) assembly. Remove the screws that secure the sockets
to the standoffs, and remove the screws in the standoffs at the four corners of the PWB (if
present). Set these in a convenient place.
– Check the heater wiring on the foil side of the board. Position so the wiring will rest
against the chassis when secured in place.
– Carefully place the left channel amplifier PWB in position from the underside of the
chassis.
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– Install the six 4-40 x 3/8-inch mounting screws from the top of the chassis to the socket
standoffs on the circuit board. Some adjustment may be needed for the sockets to achieve
proper alignment. After the sockets are in position, install the four screws for the four
standoffs at the corners of the PWB. Do not tighten the screws until all screws have been
threaded and the sockets properly extend through the chassis cutouts so they are flush with
the top of the chassis.
– Locate the Rectifier PWB. Remove the screws that secure the socket to the standoffs, and
remove the screws in the standoffs at the four corners of the PWB (if present). Set these in
a convenient place.
– Carefully place the rectifier PWB in position from the underside of the chassis. Make sure
the board is properly oriented. See Figure 5.11 for guidance.
– Install the two 4-40 x 3/8-inch mounting screws from the top of the chassis to the socket
standoffs on the circuit board. Some adjustment may be needed to achieve proper
alignment. After the socket is in position, install the four screws for the four standoffs at
the corners of the PWB. Do not tighten the screws until all screws have been threaded and
the socket properly extends through the chassis cutouts so it is flush with the top of the
chassis.
– Once all PWBs have been installed, tighten by using two screwdrivers—one from the
bottom of the chassis and the other from the top. Turn in opposite directions. Be careful
not to over-tighten. Be careful to not scratch the top finish. Note that the preamplifier
power supply PWB will be installed later.
The chassis is shipped with the output transformers and power supply transformers packaged
separately. This is a precaution to avoid damage during shipping due to the weight of these
components. As the transformers are installed, the chassis will become quite heavy. Use the side
handles to move the chassis. It may be useful to have a second person assist during the following
steps.
In order to reach the PWB terminal posts, the lead length on the transformer wires is critical.
As typically supplied, the leads should reach their respective posts. To avoid the possible need to
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extend one or more of the leads, do not trim the wires from the transformers until they are to be
connected to the PWBs.
– Locate the chassis grommets. There are 5 for the 1/2-inch holes and 2 for the 3/4-inch
holes. Install the grommets.
– Examine the transformers (T1, T2, T51, and L51). A nameplate sticker can be found on
the bottom of each device. Carefully peal off the sticker and apply it to the under-side of
the chassis in the approximate location of the transformer. This will serve as a reference
for connections, and service at a later point if needed.
– Locate the power transformer, T51. Examine the mounting holes. Note that two additional
holes are provided within the confines of the base of the transformer. These holes are used
for the support standoffs for the power management PWB. Install 2.5-inch standoffs using
countersunk 3/8-inch long #6 screws. Include a lockwasher between the chassis and the
standoff. Tighten.
For transformer installation, the sequence of #6 mounting hardware is as follows (from top to
bottom): screw / flat washer / external tooth lockwasher / transformer mounting tab / chassis / nut
with captive lockwasher. For the mounting position that includes the ground lug, insert the lug
between the mounting tab and the chassis.
– Install power transformer T51 using the #6 hardware provided. Carefully guide the leads
through the holes in the chassis. Be sure to include the grounding lug wire. Route the
grounding wire through the chassis along with the transformer leads. The primary winding
leads (white, brown, blue, black, etc.) should face to the rear of the chassis.
– Install right channel output transformer T1 using the #6 hardware provided. Carefully
guide the leads through the holes in the chassis. Be sure to include the grounding lug wire.
Route the grounding wire through the chassis along with the transformer secondary leads.
The speaker leads (yellow, green, white, black) should face to the rear of the chassis.
– Install left channel output transformer T2 using the #6 hardware provided. Carefully guide
the leads through the holes in the chassis. Be sure to include the grounding lug wire. Route
the grounding wire through the chassis along with the transformer secondary leads. The
speaker leads (yellow, green, white, black) should face to the rear of the chassis.
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– Locate the power supply choke, L51. Examine the mounting holes. Note that two holes are
provided within the confines of the base of the choke. These holes are used for two of the
support standoffs for the power management PWB. Install the 2.5-inch standoff using
countersunk 3/8-inch long #6 screws. Include a lockwasher between the chassis and the
standoff. Tighten.
– Install the power supply choke using the #6 hardware provided, carefully guiding the leads
through the hole in the chassis. Be sure to include the grounding lug wire. Route the
grounding wire through the chassis along with the choke leads.
– Mount R55 – 100 Ω potentiometer – Hum Balance Control. Mount the device from the
top of the chassis and secure with the lockwasher and nut provided. Position the device so
that when at the center of travel, the white dot on the knob points toward the back of the
chassis.
– Carefully peal off the backing for the top chassis decal. Position it on top of the chassis,
behind tubes V5 and V6. Apply the decal.
Find the female “quick-disconnect” connectors. In the following steps, the transformer leads will
be connected to their respective terminals on the circuit boards using these connectors. The lead
lengths from the various transformers may need to be trimmed to remove excess length. Make
sure to keep sufficient lead length to permit organized cable routing.
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sufficient.) In addition, the preferred method of cutting the tubing is to use a so-called “heat
knife.” If such a tool is unavailable, scissors may be used. Note that two sizes of sleeving are
provided—a small size and a large size. Note also that two sizes of heat-shrink tubing are
provided—one small and one large.
– Cut two 6-inch pieces of small expandable sleeving. Cut four pieces of small heat-shrink
tubing, each about 3/4-inch long.
– Feed one 6-inch piece of small-sized sleeving onto the primary leads of the right channel
output transformer, T1. Position one end of the sleeving near the base of the transformer
(where the leads enter the chassis). Stretch the sleeving to its full length. Place one piece
of heat-shrink tubing on each end of the sleeving. Process with the heat gun. Be careful to
focus the heat on the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving (which may melt if exposed to
too much heat).
– Feed one 6-inch piece of small-sized sleeving onto the primary leads of the left channel
output transformer, T2. Position one end of the sleeving near the base of the transformer
(where the leads enter the chassis). Stretch the sleeving to its full length. Place one piece
of heat-shrink tubing on each end of the sleeving. Process with the heat gun. Be careful to
focus the heat on the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving.
– Cut two 4-inch pieces of large expandable sleeving. Cut four pieces of large heat-shrink
tubing, each about 3/4-inch long.
– Feed one 4-inch piece of large-sized sleeving onto the secondary leads of the right channel
output transformer, T1. Be sure to include the black ground wire from the transformer
case. Position one end of the sleeving near the base of the transformer (where the leads
enter the chassis). Stretch the sleeving to its full length. Place one piece of heat-shrink
tubing on each end of the sleeving. Process with the heat gun. Be careful to focus the heat
on the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving.
– Feed one 4-inch piece of large-sized sleeving onto the secondary leads of the left channel
output transformer, T2. Be sure to include the black ground wire from the transformer
case. Position one end of the sleeving near the base of the transformer (where the leads
enter the chassis). Stretch the sleeving to its full length. Place one piece of heat-shrink
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tubing on each end of the sleeving. Process with the heat gun. Be careful to focus the heat
on the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving.
– Cut one 3-inch piece of small expandable sleeving. Cut two pieces of small heat-shrink
tubing, each about 3/4-inch long.
– Feed the 3-inch piece of small-sized sleeving onto the leads of choke L51. Include the
black ground wire from the choke case. Position one end of the sleeving near the base of
the device (where the leads enter the chassis). Stretch the sleeving to its full length. Place
one piece of heat-shrink tubing on each end of the sleeving. Process with the heat gun. Be
careful to focus the heat on the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving.
– Feed the large-sized heat-shrink tubing onto the front set of leads of power supply
transformer T51. Position near the base of the transformer (where the leads enter the
chassis). Process with the heat gun. Be careful to focus the heat on the heat-shrink tubing,
not the leads. This cable bundle will connect to the rectifier PWB.
– Feed the large-sized heat-shrink tubing onto the rear set of leads of power supply
transformer T51. Position near the base of the transformer (where the leads enter the
chassis). Process with the heat gun. Be careful to focus the heat on the heat-shrink tubing,
not the leads. This cable bundle will connect to the right channel PWB.
– Cut one 5-inch piece of small expandable sleeving. Cut two pieces of small heat-shrink
tubing, each about 3/4-inch long.
– Feed the 5-inch piece of small-sized sleeving onto the primary (black) windings from
transformer T301 (the preamplifier power supply filament transformer). Place one piece
of heat-shrink tubing on each end of the sleeving. Process with the heat gun. Be careful to
focus the heat on the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving.
– Cut one 5-inch piece of small expandable sleeving. Cut two pieces of small heat-shrink
tubing, each about 3/4-inch long.
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– Feed the 5-inch piece of small-sized sleeving onto the secondary (green) windings from
transformer T301 (the preamplifier power supply filament transformer). Place one piece
of heat-shrink tubing on each end of the sleeving. Process with the heat gun. Be careful to
focus the heat on the heat-shrink tubing, not the sleeving.
In the following steps, trim the transformer lead lengths so the wires will comfortably reach their
respective terminals. Note that the sleeving containing the primary leads from T1 will rest against
the bottom chassis plate. After each terminal is attached to a lead, gently pull on the wire and
terminal to make sure a good crimp has been made.
– Connect PL1 – output transformer plate 1 connection. Find the blue wire from the right
channel output transformer (T1). Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the
PL1 post on the right channel PWB.
– Connect SC1 – output transformer screen 1 connection. Find the blue/yellow wire from
the right channel output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to
the SC1 post on the right channel PWB.
– Connect PL2 – output transformer plate 2 connection. Find the brown wire from the right
channel output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the PL2
post on the right channel PWB.
– Connect SC2 – output transformer screen 2 connection. Find the brown/yellow wire from
the right channel output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to
the SC2 post on the right channel PWB.
– Connect T1ct – output transformer center tap. Find the red wire from the right channel
output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the T1ct post on
the right channel PWB.
Double-check the connections from the right channel output transformer to the PWB.
In the following steps, trim the transformer lead lengths so the wires will comfortably reach their
respective terminals. Note that the sleeving containing the primary leads from T2 will rest against
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the bottom chassis plate. After each terminal is attached to a lead, gently pull on the wire and
terminal to make sure a good crimp has been made.
– Connect PL1 – output transformer plate 1 connection. Find the blue wire from the left
channel output transformer (T2). Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the
PL1 post on the left channel PWB.
– Connect SC1 – output transformer screen 1 connection. Find the blue/yellow wire from
the left channel output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the
SC1 post on the left channel PWB.
– Connect PL2 – output transformer plate 2 connection. Find the brown wire from the left
channel output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the PL2
post on the left channel PWB.
– Connect SC2 – output transformer screen 2 connection. Find the brown/yellow wire from
the left channel output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the
SC2 post on the left channel PWB.
– Connect T2ct – output transformer center tap. Find the red wire from the left channel
output transformer. Install a connector to the end of the wire. Attach to the T2ct post on
the left channel PWB.
Double-check the connections from the left channel output transformer to the PWB.
In the following steps, trim the transformer lead lengths so the wires will comfortably reach their
respective terminals. After each terminal is attached to a lead, gently pull on the wire and terminal
to make sure a good crimp has been made.
– Connect 400V – plate winding. Find one of the two red leads from the power transformer
(T51). Install a connector to the wire. Attach to one of the 400V posts on the rectifier
PWB.
– Connect 400V – plate winding. Find the other red lead from the power transformer. Install
a connector to the wire. Attach to the available 400V post on the rectifier PWB.
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– Connect 50V – plate winding bias tap. Find the violet lead from the power transformer.
Install a connector to the wire. Attach to the 50V post on the rectifier PWB.
– Connect T51CT – plate winding center tap. Find the red/yellow lead from the power
transformer. Install a connector to the wire. Attach to the T51ct post on the rectifier PWB.
– Connect 6VH1 – 6.3 V filament. Find one of the green leads from the power transformer.
Install a connector to the wire. Attach to the one of 6VH1 post on the rectifier PWB.
– Connect 6VH2 – 6.3 V filament. Find the remaining green lead from the power
transformer. Install a connector to the wire. Attach to one of the 6VH2 post on the rectifier
PWB.
– Connect 6VHct – 6.3 V filament center-tap. Find the green/yellow lead from the power
transformer. Install a connector to the wire. Attach to the 6VHct post on the rectifier
PWB.
It is unlikely that the 5 V heater leads (yellow, yellow, black/yellow center-tap) will reach
their respective terminal posts on the left channel PWB. These leads will therefore need to be
extended. Use the following procedure.
– Cut two 11-inch long pieces of #22 yellow wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one
end of each wire. Attach a male quick-disconnect terminal to the free end of each wire.
– Connect 5VHa – 5 V heater. Connect one of the yellow wires to the 5VHa post on the left
channel PWB.
– Connect 5VHb – 5 V heater. Connect the remaining yellow wire to the 5VHb post on the
left channel PWB.
– Twist the yellow wires together along their length and route to the rectifier PWB.
– Find one of the yellow lead from the power transformer. Install a quick-disconnect
terminal to the wire. Mate with one of the yellow wires from the left channel PWB.
– Find the remaining yellow lead from the power transformer. Install a quick-disconnect
terminal to the wire. Mate with the remaining yellow wire from the left channel PWB.
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• Find the black/yellow lead from the power transformer. Install a quick-disconnect
terminal to the wire. This wire is not connected. Secure with a tie-rap so it does not make
contact with any open circuits.
The following steps assume a line input voltage of 120 V ac.
– Connect N-2 – AC neutral to T51. Find the brown lead from the power transformer.
Install a connector to the wire. Attach to the N-2 post on the right channel PWB. Route the
wire below the cable to output transformer T1.
– Connect N-3 – AC neutral to T51. Find the white lead from the power transformer. Install
a connector to the wire. Attach to the N-3 post on the right channel PWB. Route the wire
below the cable to output transformer T1.
– Connect Hot-4 – AC hot to T51. Find the blue lead from the power transformer, T51.
Install a connector to the wire. Attach to the Hot-4 post on the right channel PWB.
– Connect Hot-5 – AC hot to T51. Find the black lead from the power transformer, T51.
Install a connector to the wire. Attach to the Hot-5 post on the right channel PWB.
– Connect the NC terminals – T51 primary windings not used for 120 V operation. Connect
the following wires to any of the available NC terminals on the right channel PWB:
• Blue/yellow
• Brown/yellow
• Black/red
• White/black
– Connect the ground wire from power transformer T51 to the available ground lug on the
rear corner of the left channel PWB. Do not solder.
Double-check the connections from the power transformer to the three PWB.
In the following steps, trim the lead lengths so the wires will comfortably reach their respective
terminals. After each terminal is attached to a lead, gently pull on the wire and terminal to make
sure a good crimp has been made.
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– Connect L51in – choke in. Find one of the black wires from the power supply choke
(L51). Check to see if the lead will comfortably reach the L51in terminal on the rectifier
PWB. If it will, install a connector to the wire and make the attachment. In the event that
the lead is not long enough to reach the L51in post, install a butt-splice connector to the
lead. Cut a section of #22 red 600 V hookup wire sufficient to reach the rectifier board.
Crimp both ends of the splice and cover with a 1.5-inch piece of small heat-shrink tubing.
Process (heat). Attach a quick-disconnect connector to the end of the red wire. Attach to
the L51in post on the rectifier PWB. Route the cable from the choke to the rectifier PWB
using the available cable clamp at the rear of the chassis.
– Connect L51out – choke out. Find the remaining black wire from the power supply
choke. As with the other lead from L51, check to see if the wire will reach the L51out
terminal on the rectifier PWB. If so, install a connector to the wire. If not, use the
procedure detailed previously to extend the wire. Attach to the L51out post on the left
channel PWB. Route the wire through the available cable clamp.
– Attach the black ground lead from the case of L51 to the ground lug at the rear of the left
channel PWB. Do not solder. Route the wire through the available cable clamp.
Double check the connections from the choke to the circuit boards.
In the following steps the necessary connections will be made between the right channel, left
channel, and rectifier PWBs.
– Prepare two hookup wires as follows: #18 green, 30 inches, and #18 brown, 30 inches.
This wire can be found in the Filament Wire package in the chassis box. Tightly twist the
two wires together along their length.
– Route the green/brown twisted pair to the rectifier PWB through the cable clamps at the
rear or the chassis.
– Install a quick-disconnect connector on the green #18 wires and attach to the 6VH1 post
on the right channel PWB.
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– Install a quick disconnect connector on the brown #18 wire and attach to the 6VH2 post
on the right channel PWB.
– Cut a 26-inch long #22 slate wire and a 4-inch long slate wire. Combine the wires and
attach a quick-disconnect terminal. Connect to the BIAS post on the right channel PWB.
– Feed the free end of the long slate wire to the left channel PWB through the cable clamps
at the rear of the chassis. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to the short slate wire. It will
be connected later.
Note that in the following step, hookup wire rated for operation at 600 V (or greater) is used
due to the B+ voltages used in the amplifier.
– Cut a 26-inch long #22 red 600 V wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Connect to the B+ post on the right channel PWB.
– Feed the free end of the red wire to the rectifier PWB through the cable clamps at the rear
of the chassis.
– Prepare a 27-inch long #18, black wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end.
Connect to the GND post on the right channel PWB.
– Feed the free end of the black wire to the rectifier PWB through the cable clamps at the
rear of the chassis.
– Prepare two hookup wires as follows: #18 green, 8 inches, and #18 brown, 8 inches. Twist
the wires together.
– Install a connector on the green #18 wire and attach to the 6VH1 post on the left channel
PWB.
– Install a connector on the brown #18 wire and attach to the 6VH2 post on the left channel
PWB.
– Route the green/brown twisted pair to the rectifier PWB. Combine the two green wires
and install a connector. Attach to the 6VH1 post on the rectifier PWB.
– Combine the two brown wires and install a connector. Attach to the 6VH2 post on the
rectifier PWB.
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– Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to the free end of the slate wire. Connect to the BIAS
post on the left channel PWB.
– Cut a 20-inch long #22 red 600 V wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to each end of
the wire. Attach one end to the B+Sense terminal on the left channel PWB. Route the free
end to the rear of the chassis using the available cable clamp. This wire will connect to the
power management board.
– Cut a 10-inch long #22 red 600 V wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Attach to the B+ post on the left channel PWB.
– Cut a 11-inch long #22 red 600 V wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Leave this end free; it will be connected to the preamplifier power supply board.
– Combine the red wire prepared in the previous step with the red wire from the B+ post on
the right channel PWB and the red wire from the B+ post on the left channel PWB. Slip
the three wires into a quick-disconnect terminal and crimp. Attach to the B+ terminal on
the rectifier PWB.
– Cut a 10-inch long #22 white wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of the
wire. Attach to the -60V post on the left channel PWB.
– Cut a 29-inch long #22 white wire. Combine one end of the wire with the 10-inch long #22
white wire in the previous step. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal (2 wires combined).
Attach to the -60V post on the rectifier PWB. Route the free end of the wire power
management expansion PWB using the two rear cable clamps. Attach a quick-disconnect
terminal to the wire. This wire will be connected when the power management expansion
PWB is installed.
– Prepare a 7-inch long #18 black wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of the
wire and connect to the GND post on the left channel PWB.
– Combine the 7-inch long black wire and the 27-inch long black wire from the right
channel PWB into a single quick-disconnect terminal. Attach the terminal to one of the
available GND positions on the rectifier PWB.
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– Cut an 11-inch long #22 black wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to each end of the
wire. Connect one end to the available GND terminal on the rectifier PWB. Leave the
other end free; it will be connected to the preamplifier power supply board.
– Prepare an 11-inch long #18 black wire. Secure one end to the ground lug on the corner of
the right channel PWB. Solder (2 wires).
– Route the free end of the 11-inch #18 black wire to one of the available the back panel
ground lugs. Do not solder. Route the wire through the cable clamp adjacent to the right
channel PWB.
– Prepare an 14-inch long #18 black wire. Secure one end to the ground lug on the corner of
the rectifier PWB. Solder (2 wires).
– Route the free end of the 14-inch #18 black wire to the back panel ground lug that contains
the black wire from the right channel PWB. Do not solder. Route the wire through the
cable clamp in the rear portion of the chassis.
– Prepare a 10-inch long #18 black wire. Secure one end to the ground lug on the corner of
the left channel PWB. Solder (2 wires).
– Route the free end of the 10-inch #18 black wire to the back panel ground lug that also
contains the ground wires from the right channel and rectifier PWBs. Solder (3 wires).
– Prepare a 14-inch #18 black wire. Connect one end to one of the available ground lugs on
the back panel main ground point. Do not solder. Route the free end of the wire to the area
where the preamplifier power supply PWB will be mounted.
Find the package “AC Power Connector Hardware.” In the following steps, the ac primary wiring
will be installed.
– Prepare an 11-inch piece of black #18 wire. Attach one end of the wire to the ground lug
on ac line filter FL51. Solder. Attach the other end of the wire to one of the available lugs
at the main ground point. Use the ground lug that already contains the ground wire from
the preamplifier power supply PWB. Do not solder.
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– Find varistor VR53. Place a 1-inch long piece of insulation on each lead. Use insulation
striped from a section of #18 black wire.
Metal oxide varistor (MOV) VR53 is used to prevent potentially damaging transient
disturbances on the ac line from entering the amplifier chassis. While the best location to do this is
directly across the ac input connector on the back panel, the possibility of failure of the MOV
must be considered. It is possible that following exposure to repeated high-energy surges, the
MOV could fail in a short circuit. For that reason, VR53 is connected after circuit breaker CB51.
In order to facilitate installation of this device with a minimum of lead length, it is necessary to
extend one of the leads of VR53 by a small amount, as detailed in the steps below.
– Cut a 1-inch long piece of #18 black wire. Using a soldering iron and small amount of
solder, tin one end of the #18 black wire, and tin one lead from VR53. Bring the two
tinned wires together and solder, forming a reliable solder bridge.
– Cut a 1-inch piece of small heat shrink tubing. Place over the splice point and process
(heat).
Observe the rear of the ac power connector. There are three terminals. The center terminal is
ground, as marked on the back of the device. One of the remaining terminals is the ac neutral
terminal (denoted by “N”) and the other is the ac hot line terminal (denoted by “L”).
– Using the primary ac wire included in the AC Power Connector Hardware package,
prepare a 4-inch piece of #16 green stranded wire. Attach a connector to each end of the
wire.
– Attach one end of the green wire to the ground terminal on ac input filter FL51. Connect
the other end of the wire to the ground terminal on ac power connector. It may be helpful
to use a pair of long-noise pliers to secure the connector.
– Using the primary ac wire included in the AC Power Connector Hardware package,
prepare a 4-inch piece of #16 white stranded wire. Attach a connector to one end of the
wire. On the other end of the wire, combine with the short lead from VR53 and attach a
connector (wire and lead in the same terminal).
– Attach the single-conductor end of the white wire to the neutral terminal on the ac input
filter FL51. Connect the other end (with the VR53 lead) to the neutral terminal on the ac
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power connector. The neutral input of the filter is the terminal post on the “Line” end
farthest away from the side of the chassis.
– Using the primary ac wire included in the AC Power Connector Hardware package,
prepare a 6-inch piece of #16 black stranded wire. Attach a connector to one end of the
wire. On the other end, combine with the free lead from VR53 and attach a connector
(wire and lead in the same terminal).
– Attach the single-conductor end of the black wire to the hot terminal on ac line filter
FL51. The hot terminal is the one on the “Line” end closest to the side of the chassis.
Attach the other end of the black wire (with the VR53 lead) to the terminal of circuit
breaker CB51 closest to the chassis deck.
– Using the primary ac wire included in the AC Power Connector Hardware package,
prepare a 4-inch piece of #16 black stranded wire. Attach a connector to each end of the
wire.
– Attach one end of the black wire to the line terminal on the ac power connector. Attach the
other end of the black wire to the available terminal of circuit breaker CB51.
Set the ac power cord aside for now. It will be connected only after all preliminary tests have
been completed. Note that while the connectors of the power cord receptacle are recessed, it is
nonetheless possible to make contact with hot connectors if the socket is probed. Never let
children play with the power cord.
– Prepare a 3-inch long #18 black stranded wire. Attach quick-disconnect terminals on each
end of the wire.
– Attach one end of the wire prepared in the previous step to the Hot-2 post on the right
channel PWB. Attach the other end of the wire to the RYL51 NO post. Note that the
terminal legend for the relay is given on the top side of the device. Insert the connector
straight down on the relay terminal. Do not bend the terminal as that may crack the
housing.
– Prepare a 3-inch long #18 black stranded wire. Attach quick-disconnect terminals on each
end of the wire.
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– Attach one end of the wire prepared in the previous step to the Hot-3 post on the right
channel PWB. Attach the other end of the wire to the RYL51 COM post. Note that the
terminal legend for the relay is given on the top side of the device. Insert the connector
straight down on the relay terminal. Do not bend the terminal as that may crack the
housing
– Prepare two 28-inch long #22 white wires, twisted. Install quick-disconnect terminals on
each wire at one end of the twisted pair. On the other end of the twisted pair, install the
miniature quick-disconnect connectors provided with the relay. Note that these two
connector types are not interchangeable.
– Attach the white twisted pair miniature connectors to the mating “coil” posts on RYL51.
Attach one of the standard-size connectors to the RYL51+ post on the left channel PWB.
Attach the other connector to the RYL51- post. Use the available cable clamps for
routing.
– Prepare one 21-inch long #22 white wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Attach to the N-4 (AC neutral to PL51) post on the right channel PWB. Route the
other end of the wire toward the front panel. It will be connected later.
– Prepare one 20-inch long #22 white wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Attach to the Hot-8 (AC hot to PL51) post on the right channel PWB. Route the
other end of the wire toward the front panel.
– The two #22 white wires will connect to the front panel pilot lamp. Position the wire ends
at the lamp and observe where their paths intersect. Twist the wires together along this
path. Route the wires to the front panel.
– Connect one white wire to each of the two terminals on the pilot lamp. Solder. A short
piece of small heat-shrink tubing may be used on each wire, if desired.
Note: It may be helpful to temporarily remove the front panel power switch in order to make
the connections to the pilot lamp.
– Find VR54, 130 V MOV. Place a 1-inch long piece of insulation on each lead (use
insulation stripped from a length of #18 black hookup wire). Attach a quick-disconnect
terminal to each lead. Connect one lead to N-6 on Amplifier PWB #1 (right channel).
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Connect the other lead to the Hot-6 post on Amplifier PWB #1. Orient the device so it is
horizontal.
– Prepare a 24-inch long #18 white wire. Install a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Attach to the N-5 post on the Amplifier PWB #1 (right channel) board.
– Prepare a 24-inch long #18 black wire. Install a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Attach to the Hot-7 post on the Amplifier PWB #1 (right channel) board.
– Twist the white and black wires just prepared along their length and route to the side of the
chassis that will hold the preamplifier power supply PWB using the available cable
clamps. The free ends of this cable will be connected later during installation of the
preamplifier power supply PWB.
The primary power connections have now been made. Recheck your work. The chassis at this
stage of assembly is shown in Figure 5.12.
In the following steps, the Hum Balance potentiometer will be connected. Terminal numbering
for the chassis-mounted potentiometer is shown in Figure 5.13.
– Prepare two 16-inch long #22 wires, one brown and one green. Twist along the length of
the wires, leaving about 2-inches free on each end. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to
each wire at one end.
– Connect the brown wire terminal to the R55a post on the left channel PWB.
– Connect the green wire terminal to the R55b post on the left channel PWB.
– Using the available cable clamp, route the green/brown twisted pair to Hum Balance
control R55, which is located at the rear of the chassis, adjacent to the back panel. Trim
the wire lengths if needed. Slip a short piece of small heat shrink tubing onto each wire.
Secure the brown wire to terminal #1 of R55. Solder in place. Secure the green wire to
terminal #3 of R55. Solder in place. Process (heat) the tubing.
– Prepare a 16-inch long #22 orange hookup wire. Install a quick-disconnect connector on
one end of the wire. Attach to the R55arm post on the left channel PWB. Route the other
end of the wire through the available cable clamp to R55 at the rear of the chassis. Trim
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Figure 5.12 Amplifier chassis at the mid point in assembly. (Note: In this particular photo,
transformer T301 is not installed.)
the length if needed. Slip a short piece of small heat shrink tubing onto the wire. Secure to
the wiper arm of Hum Balance control R55 (terminal 2). Solder in place. Process (heat)
the tubing.
In the following steps, the rear panel speaker terminals and the front panel headphone outputs will
be connected.
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Term 2
(arm)
Term 1 Term 3
(low side)
Figure 5.13 Terminal numbering for chassis-mounted potentiometers. (high side)
Potentiometer
– Prepare an 18-inch long #22 yellow wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end.
Attach to the 5Vdc post on the left channel PWB. Route the free end to the front panel
using one of the available cable clamps. Connect the wire to one of the terminals on the
Speaker On-Off switch, SW52. Do not solder.
– Prepare a 16-inch long #22 yellow wire. Connect one end of the wire to the available
terminal on the front panel Speaker On/Off switch, SW52. Do not solder.
– Install VR55 – 18 V varistor. Connect one lead to each terminal on the front panel Speaker
On.Off switch, SW52. Solder (2 wires per terminal.) It may be helpful to use a short piece
of spaghetti on each lead.
– Dress the wiring against the chassis. Route the free end of the yellow wire to the back
panel through the cable clamp adjacent to the right channel PWB. It will be connected
later.
– Prepare a 19-inch long #22 yellow wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end.
Attach to the GND post on the left channel PWB that is next to the 5Vdc post. Route the
free end to the back panel using one of the available cable clamps. The wire will be
connected later.
Examine the secondary leads from the two output transformers. There are four wires from each
device. Black is common and the other three leads provide for 4, 8, or 16 Ω outputs. In order to
optimize the amplifier feedback circuit, only the 8 Ω output is made available at the rear panel
terminals.
– Find the secondary leads from the right channel output transformer (T1). Trim the leads to
be about 3-inches beyond the expandable sleeving (approximately 8 inches total from the
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transformer base). Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) to the end of each lead. Insert the
wires into a 4-terminal 0.156 pitch Molex housing as follows:
– Find the secondary leads from the left channel output transformer (T2). Trim the leads to
be about 3-inches beyond the expandable sleeving (approximately 8 inches total from the
transformer base). Attach a Molex terminal (0.156 pitch) to the end of each lead. Insert the
wires into a 4-terminal 0.156 pitch Molex housing as follows:
Find the speaker terminal PWBs. Two are provided—one for the right channel and one for the left
channel. Each board mounts on the speaker terminals for the respective channel.
Temporarily fit each PWB on to the speaker terminals. The board should fit tightly over the
posts. Upon completion the boards will be soldered to the posts. Note that it may be necessary to
trim the end points of the posts in order to provide for a good fit with the boards.
Remove the boards from the chassis and perform the following steps.
– Using the technique shown in Figure 5.1, mount the 5 quick-disconnect posts on the right
channel speaker PWB. Solder.
– Using the technique shown in Figure 5.1, mount the 5 quick-disconnect posts on the left
channel speaker PWB. Solder.
– Install R13 – 8.2 kΩ, 0.5 W – on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Install R30 – 8.2 kΩ, 0.5 W – on the left channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
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– Install R47 – 5 kΩ, trimmer – on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder in place. Set for
center of travel (7 turns from either stop).
– Install R48 – 5 kΩ, trimmer – on the left channel speaker PWB. Solder in place. Set for
center of travel (7 turns from either stop).
– Install R49 – 10 kΩ, 0.5 W – on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Install R50 – 10 kΩ, 0.5 W – on the left channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
In the next few steps, the speaker load resistors will be installed. As shown in the schematic
diagram of Figure 1.1, when the speaker switch is in the Off position, the secondary of each
output transformer is switched by a relay to a load resistor. The specified value for the resistor is 8
Ω. This value can be difficult to find in stock components and so in this implementation, two 4 Ω
10 W resistors are connected in series to yield the correct value.
– Install R14 and R15 – 4 Ω 10 W – on the right channel speaker PWB. Mount so the
devices are about 1/2-inch above the PWB. Solder both devices in place.
– Install R31 and R32 – 4 Ω 10 W – on the left channel speaker PWB. Mount so the devices
are about 1/2-inch above the PWB. Solder both devices in place.
– Install R16 and R17 – 27 Ω 2 W – on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder.
– Install R33 and R34 – 27 Ω 2 W – on the left channel speaker PWB. Solder.
– Install R67 – 150 Ω 0.5 W – on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder.
– Install R69 – 150 Ω 0.5 W – on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder.
– Install C12 – 200 pF – on the left channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Install D1 – 1 A 600 V diode – on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Install D2 – 1 A 600 V diode – on the left channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Mount the relay RYL1 socket on the right channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
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(b)
(a)
Figure 5.14 Speaker terminal PWB: (a) component side, (b) foil side.
– Mount the relay RYL2 socket on the left channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Mount the 4-terminal Molex header (male, 0.1 pitch) at the Conn5 position on the right
channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Mount the 4-terminal Molex header (male, 0.1 pitch) at the Conn7 position on the left
channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Mount the 4-terminal Molex header (male, 0.156 pitch) at the Conn6 position on the right
channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Mount the 4-terminal Molex header (male, 0.156 pitch) at the Conn8 position on the left
channel speaker PWB. Solder in place.
– Place a self-adhesive vinyl pad on each of the four corners (approximately) of the two
speaker terminal PWBs (eight pieces in all). The pads are intended to make sure the
speaker PWBs do not make contact with the barrier strip mounting screws and to support
the board as connections are made.
If desired, a single light coat of acrylic conformal coating (MG Chemicals #419C-340G) may
be applied to the foil side of the speaker terminal PWBs.
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When making connections to the speaker terminal PWBs, support the board as needed to avoid
stressing the PWB.
– Using two tie-wraps, bundle the wires running along the back panel where the right
channel speaker PWB will be mounted. Position the wire bundle about 1/2-inch away
from the back panel.
– Insert the right channel speaker PWB over the right channel barrier strip posts. Orient the
board so the relay faces the center of the chassis.
– While holding the board in position, solder the two speaker barrier strip terminals to the
right channel speaker PWB.
– Insert the 4-pin Molex connector from output transformer T1 into the Conn6 post. The
black lead goes to pin #1.
– Using two tie-wraps, bundle the wires running along the back panel where the left channel
speaker PWB will be mounted. Position the wire bundle about 1/2-inch away from the
back panel.
– Insert the left channel speaker PWB over the left channel barrier strip posts. Orient the
board so the relay faces the center of the chassis.
– While holding the board in position, solder the two speaker barrier strip terminals to the
left channel speaker PWB.
– Insert the 4-pin Molex connector from output transformer T2 into the Conn8 post. The
black lead goes to pin #1.
– Prepare a 5-inch long #18 black wire. Connect one end to the available unused ground lug
on the back panel. Do not solder.
– Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to the free end of the 5-inch #18 black wire. Attach to
one of the GND posts on the right channel speaker PWB.
– Prepare a 5-inch long #18 black wire. Connect one end to the ground lug on the back panel
that also includes the ground wire from the right channel speaker PWB. Solder (2 wires).
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– Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to the free end of the 5-inch #18 black wire. Attach to
the GND post on the left channel speaker PWB.
– Prepare a 10-inch long #22 yellow wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire.
– Find the #22 yellow wire from the front panel Speaker On/Off switch. Combine the wire
with the #22 yellow wire in the previous step and attach a quick-disconnect terminal (two
wires crimped together). Connect to the RYL post on the right channel speaker PWB.
Connect the other terminal to the RYL post on the left channel speaker PWB.
On the headphone jacks, there are three terminals—commonly known as tip, ring, and sleeve.
Identify each of the terminals. This can be done by a visual inspection of the socket, or with an
ohmmeter. Note that:
• The sleeve is the common (ground) connection.
• The ring is the right channel connection.
• The tip is the left channel connection.
– Prepare a 19-inch long 2-conductor shielded cable. Remove 4-inches of insulation from
one end, and 2-inches of insulation from the other end. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal
to each of the wires (black, white, and shield drain) on the 4-inch side. Attach the
connectors as follows:
– Route the 2-conductor shielded cable to the front panel and the1/4-inch headphone jack
(J1). Make the following connections:
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– Prepare a 19-inch long 2-conductor shielded cable. Remove 4-inches of insulation from
one end, and 2-inches of insulation from the other end. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal
to each of the wires (black, white, and shield drain) on the 4-inch side. Attach the
connectors as follows:
– Route the 2-conductor shielded cable to the front panel and the3.5 mm headphone jack
(J2). Make the following connections:
– Using the available tie-wraps, organize the wiring through the cable clamps adjacent to the
right channel PWB and at the rear of the chassis.
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resistance shown on the ohmmeter will be quite low, in the neighborhood of 0.5 ohms.
This is normal.
• Move the headphone plug to the other front panel headphone jack. Touch the red lead of
the ohmmeter to the right channel 8 Ohm terminal and confirm that a click is heard in the
right channel headphone. Finally, touch the red lead of the ohmmeter to the left channel 8
Ohm terminal and confirm that a click is heard in the left channel headphone.
If the results detailed above are not observed, recheck the wiring of the headphone jacks and
the speaker PWBs. Do not move forward until these tests are successfully completed.
Find the power management PWB, completed previously. This board will be mounted with the
component side facing inward toward the chassis top plate; the foil side will face the chassis
bottom panel. It will be necessary, therefore, to make all connections to the PWB before it is
secured in place.
L-shaped brackets are provided to temporarily mount the power management PWB on its side
in order to make connections, and later for maintenance if needed. Attach the brackets to the front
mounting posts adjacent to the power transformer leads. Temporarily mount the PWB at a right
angle to the chassis deck using the #6 hardware provided. Important: the brackets should rest
against the component side of the board. If mounted with the brackets against the foil side of the
board, component damage may result. See Figure 6.1.
When making connections to the power management PWB, support the board from the foil
side to prevent cracking the PWB at the right angle attachment points.
– Prepare a 26-inch long #22 black wire. Attach a spade terminal to one end of the wire;
connect to the center terminal of the front panel power switch, SW51. It may be helpful to
turn the switch body slightly to improve access to the terminal. Orient the barrel of the
connector so it is out of the way. Place a short piece of heat shrink tubing over the
connection and process (heat).
– Prepare a 26-inch long #22 black wire. Attach a spade terminal to one end of the wire;
connect to one of the outside terminals on the front panel power switch, SW51. Place a
short piece of heat shrink tubing over the connection and process (heat).
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– Twist the two black wires together. Route to the rear of the chassis using the front cable
clamp along the left channel PWB. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to the ends of each
wire.
– Prepare a 26-inch long #22 blue wire. Attach one end of the wire to the center terminal of
the front panel Auto-Off switch, SW202. Solder.
– Prepare a 26-inch long #22 blue wire. Attach one end of the wire the remaining terminal
on the front panel Auto-Off switch, SW202. Solder.
– Twist the two blue wires together. Route to the rear of the chassis using the available cable
clamps along the left channel PWB.
– Find the 4-terminal Molex connector and pins. Attach a pin to each blue wire. Insert a
wire/pin into position #3. Insert the other wire/pin into position #4 on the connector.
– Prepare two 26-inch blue #22 twisted wires. Attach a Molex pin to each wire. Insert a
wire/pin into position #1 of the 4-terminal Molex connector. Insert the other wire/pin into
position #2 on the connector. Route the free end of the twisted pair to the power
management expansion PWB using the available rear cable clamp.
– Prepare a 25-inch long #22 violet wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to each end of
the wire. Connect to the V+HV post on the power management PWB. Route to the side of
the chassis using the cable clamp adjacent to the left channel PWB.The free end will be
connected later during installation of the preamplifier power supply PWB.
– Prepare a 23-inch long #22 violet wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to each end of
the wire. Connect to the V+ post on the power management PWB. Route the free end
toward the power management expansion PWB using the available cable clamp.The free
end will be connected later
– Prepare a 23-inch long #22 black wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to each end of
the wire. Connect to the GND post on the power management PWB. Route the free end
toward the power management expansion PWB using the available cable clamp.The free
end will be connected later.
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– Using the available tie-wraps, organize the wiring between the rectifier PWB and the left
channel PWB, and between the rectifier PWB and the right channel PWB.
– Examine SW203, the over-temperature sensor. Aside from the vacuum tubes, the
component that generates the most heat is the power transformer. SW203 will therefore be
mounted adjacent to power transformer T51. Loosen the rear-facing mounting screw on
T51 adjacent to relay RLY51. Do not remove the nut. Slide the open mounting tab of
SW203 under the nut and tighten. Position the free end of the mounting tab under the
transformer lead grommet. When tightening the nut, be careful to not crimp the wires that
run alongside the mounting screw.
– Prepare two 18-inch long #22 white wires. Attach quick disconnect terminals to one end
of each wire. Connect the free ends of the wires to the temperature sensor, SW203. If
desired, short pieces of heat-shrink tubing may be placed over the connection points.
Solder. Twist the wires together. Route toward the power management expansion PWB
using the available rear cable clamp. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to the free ends of
the wires. They will be connected later.
If desired, a single light coat of brush-applied acrylic conformal coating (MG Chemicals
#419C-55ML) may be applied the temperature sensor terminals.
– Prepare a 14-inch long #22 black wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to one end of
the wire. Attach to the GND post in the center of the power management PWB. The other
end of the wire will be connected later.
– Prepare a 17-inch long #18 stranded white wire. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to each
end of the wire. Connect one end to the neutral load terminal of filter FL51. Use a pair of
long-nose pliers to make the connection. Connect the other end of the wire to the
ACneutral post on the power management PWB. Route the wire through the nearby cable
clamp.
– Prepare a 18-inch long #18 stranded white wire. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to each
end of the wire. Connect between the N-1 post on the right channel PWB and the LoadN
post on the power management PWB. Route the wire through the nearby cable clamp.
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– Prepare an 18-inch long #18 stranded black wire. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to
each end of the wire. Connect between the hot terminal of filter FL51 and the AChot post
on the power management PWB. Use a pair of long-nose pliers to make the connection on
FL51. Route the wire through the nearby cable clamp.
Examine the filter connections. The black wires on the Line and Load terminals should be on
the same side of the device.
– Prepare a 19-inch long #18 stranded black wire. Attach quick-disconnect connectors to
each end of the wire. Connect the wire between the Hot-1 post on the right channel PWB
and the LoadH post on the power management PWB. Route the wire through the nearby
cable clamp
– Find the #22 black twisted pair wires from the front panel Power switch, SW51. Connect
to the Switch1 and Switch2 posts on the power management PWB.
– Prepare two 23-inch long #22 brown wires, twisted. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to
one end of each wire. Connect the twisted pair to the SW203 posts on the power
management PWB. Route the free end of the wires to the power management expansion
PWB, using the available rear cable clamps. Attach quick-disconnect terminals to the free
ends of the wires. They will be connected later.
– Insert the 4-terminal Molex connector on the CONN201 post on the power management
PWB. The blue wires go to terminals #3 and #4.
– Check the position of R209. It is typically set for center rotation, which provides an auto-
off delay of about two hours.
– Find the #22 red 600 V wire from the B+ terminal on the left channel PWB. Connect to
the B+sense post on the power management PWB.
– Using the available tie wraps, organize the cabling to the power management PWB, and to
the right channel PWB. Be certain to provide sufficient wire lengths to permit the power
management PWB to be moved into position on the four mounting posts.
– Remove the L-shaped brackets holding the power management PWB. Set aside for use
later if needed.
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– Move the power management PWB into position above the four 2.5-inch standoffs. Check
to make sure no wires are crimped or otherwise stressed.
– Install the #6 screws and lockwashers in the two front-facing mounting holes of the power
management PWB. Leave the screws loose for now.
– Install the #6 screws in the two rear-facing mounting holes of the power management
PWB. Use a lockwasher on one screw and a ground lug on the other. Tighten all four
mounting screws.
– Find the black #22 wire connected to the GND post on the power management PWB.
Connect to the available ground lug on the main ground point on the back panel. Do not
solder.
– Prepare a 3-inch black #18 wire. Connect one end to the available ground lug on the back
panel. Solder (4 wires). Connect the other end to the ground lug on the power management
PWB. Solder.
The power management PWB has now been completed. Check to be sure that the board
mounts flat on the standoffs. It may be necessary to reorient the cable bundle under the board to
achieve a proper fit.
Slide the power management expansion PWB into place. Secure with six 1/4-inch 4-40 screws.
Tighten the mounting screws after all screws have been threaded.
– Cut a 14-inch long #18 black wire. Attach one end to the ground lug on the upper rear
corner of the power management expansion board. Solder. Route the free end to the rear
panel ground point using the available cable clamp. Secure to one of the available ground
lugs and solder.
In the following steps, 4-pin Molex connectors (0.1 pitch) will be used. After stripping the
cable, place a short (approximately 3/4-inch long) piece of heat-shrink tubing on each end of the
audio cable. For the end of the cable inserted into the Molex connector, process (apply heat) after
the wires have been inserted into the connector but before the cable is installed in the amplifier.
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Hardware for the following steps can be found in the “Molex Housing and Terminals”
package.
Examine the Molex socket housing. The connector pins insert one way only. As each
connector pin is attached, check for a good crimp. Builders should note that the housing is held
against the PWB-mounted pins by the friction of the connector elements. In order to provide for a
good physical mating, it is recommended that any positions on the header that are not used for
wires be filled with a pin.
– Cut a 23-inch long piece of shielded audio cable. Remove 1-inch of jacket from each end.
Clip off the shield drain wire from one end. Attach Molex pins to the white wire on each
end, and to the remaining shield drain wire.
– Using the end of the audio cable with the shield removed, insert the white wire into
position #3 on a 4-pin Molex header. Insert the connector onto Conn5 on the right channel
speaker PWB. An additional cable will be installed later on the connector.
– Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each about 3/4-inch long. Place the
tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Cut a 23-inch long piece of shielded audio cable. Remove 1-inch of jacket from each end.
Clip off the shield drain wire from one end. Attach Molex pins to the white wire on each
end, and to the remaining shield drain wire.
– Using the end of the audio cable with the shield removed, insert the white wire into
position #3 on a 4-pin Molex header. Insert the connector onto Conn7 on the left channel
speaker PWB. An additional cable will be installed later on the connector.
– Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each about 3/4-inch long. Place the
tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Route the free ends of the cables toward the front panel using the cable clamps adjacent to
the right channel PWB.
– Collect the shielded audio cables from the speaker PWBs. Route the cables to CONN401
on the power management expansion PWB. Insert the wires into a 4-pin Molex header as
follows:
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– Find the blue twisted pair from the CONN201 connector on the power management PWB.
Trim the wires so they comfortably reach the CONN402 position on the power
management expansion PWB. Insert the pins in a 4-terminal Molex connector as follows:
• Pin #1 = blue
• Pin #2 = blue
• Pins #3 and #4 = filler pins
– Find the #22 violet wire from the V+ post on the power management PWB. Trim the lead
length as needed to comfortable reach the +35V post on the power management expansion
PWB. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal and install on the +35V post.
– Find the #22 black wire from the GND post on the power management PWB. Trim the
lead length as needed to comfortable reach one of the GND posts on the power
management expansion PWB. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal and install on the GND
post.
– Find the #22 white wire from the BIAS post on the rectifier PWB. Install on the –60V post
on the power management expansion PWB.
– Find the #22 white twisted pair wire from the chassis-mounted over-temperature sensor
(SW203). Trim the lead length as needed to comfortable reach the SW203 posts on the
power management expansion PWB. Attach quick-disconnect terminals and install on the
SW203 post.
– Find the #22 brown twisted pair wire from the SW203 posts on the power management
PWB. Trim the lead length as needed to comfortable reach the Loop1/Loop2 posts on the
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power management expansion PWB. Attach quick-disconnect terminals and install on the
Loop1/Loop2 post.
– Find the short #22 slate wire from the BIAS terminal on the right channel PWB. Connect
to the BiasSense post on the power management expansion PWB.
Cut a 2-inch long #22 black wire. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal to each end of the wire.
Attach to the Cabinet Interlock Bypass posts.
Find the shielded audio cable. There are two conductors: the drain (shield) and the white
conductor. In all cases, the white conductor will be the signal-carrying wire. In all cases the drain
wire will be ground.
– Prepare a 26-inch long audio cable. Attach connector pins to each of the two wires on one
end of the audio cable. Insert the connector pins into the socket housing as follows: shield
to position #1 and white to position #2.
– Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each about 3/4-inch long. Place the
tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Insert the Molex socket into the Conn1 connector on the right channel PWB. Note that the
drain wire goes to the first “GND” position.
– Route the cable to the rear of the chassis using the cable clamps along the side of the
chassis.
– Attach a connector pin to the white wire in the audio cable from Conn1 on the right
channel PWB. Clip off the shield as it is not used. Insert the pin into the socket housing on
Conn5 on the right channel speaker PWB as follows: white to position #2.
– Insert the 4-pin Molex socket for the right channel feedback connection on the Conn5
header on the right channel speaker PWB. Use the legend on the PWB as a guide.
– Prepare a 26-inch long audio cable. Attach connector pins to each of the two wires on one
end of the audio cable. Insert the connector pins into the socket housing as follows: shield
to position #1 and white to position #2.
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– Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each about 3/4-inch long. Place the
tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Insert the Molex socket into the Conn3 connector on the left channel PWB. Note that the
drain wire goes to the first “GND” position.
– Route the cable to the rear of the chassis using the cable clamp along the side of the
chassis.
– Attach a connector pin to the white wire in the audio cable from Conn3 on the left channel
PWB. Clip off the shield wire as it is not used. Insert the pin into the socket housing on
Conn7 on the left channel speaker PWB as follows: white to position #2.
– Insert the 4-pin Molex socket for the left channel feedback connection on the Conn7
header on the left channel speaker PWB. Use the legend on the PWB as a guide.
Hardware for the following steps can be found in the “Molex Housing and Terminals” package.
– Prepare a 5-inch long audio cable. Attach connector pins to each of the two wires on one
end of the audio cable. Insert the connector pins into the socket housing as follows: shield
to position #1 and white to position #2.
– Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each about 3/4-inch long. Place the
tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Insert the Molex socket into the Conn2 connector on the right channel PWB. Note that the
drain wire goes to the first “GND” position.
– Attach the shield wire of the audio cable to terminal #1 (low) on the right channel
Volume control. Do not solder.
– Attach the white wire of the audio cable to terminal #2 (arm) on the right channel Volume
control. Solder. Dress the cable against the chassis.
– Prepare a 5-inch long audio cable. Attach connector pins to each of the two wires on one
end of the audio cable. Insert the connector pins into the socket housing as follows: shield
to position #1 and white to position #2.
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– Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each about 3/4-inch long. Place the
tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Insert the Molex socket into the Conn4 connector on the left channel PWB. Note that the
drain wire goes to the first “GND” position.
– Attach the shield wire of the audio cable to terminal #1 (low) on the left channel Volume
control. Do not solder.
– Attach the white wire of the audio cable to terminal #2 (arm) on the left channel Volume
control. Solder.
– Prepare a 28-inch long audio cable. Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each
about 3/4-inch long. Place the tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Connect the audio cable just prepared to the Left Channel Input jack on the back panel.
The white wire goes to the center pin and the shield goes to the shell. Solder.
– Route the audio cable to the front panel using the cable clamps along side the preamplifier
power supply PWB.
– Connect the white wire of the 28-inch long audio cable to the high terminal (#3) of the left
channel Volume control. Solder. Connect the shield to the low terminal (#1) of the left
channel Volume control. Solder (2 wires).
– Prepare a 28-inch long audio cable. Cut two short pieces of small heat-shrink tubing, each
about 3/4-inch long. Place the tubing at each end of the audio cable. Process.
– Connect the audio cable just prepared to the Right Channel Input jack on the back panel.
The white wire goes to the center pin and the shield goes to the shell. Solder.
– Route the audio cable to the front panel using the cable clamps along side the right
channel PWB and the chassis side.
– Connect the white wire of the 28-inch long audio cable to the high terminal (#3) of the
right channel Volume control. Solder. Connect the shield to the low terminal (#1) of the
right channel Volume control. Solder (2 wires).
– Using the tie wraps provided, organize the audio cabling and other wiring in the amplifier.
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The audio input and control circuit connections have now been made. Double check your
work before moving on.
Locate the preamplifier power supply PWB. Because of the tight spacing of some of the
connection points, most of the wiring to the board will be completed before the board is inserted
in the chassis.
– Remove the mounting screws in the standoffs at the four corners of the PWB and the three
inner positions (if present). Set these in a convenient place.
– Find the #22 violet wire from the power management PWB. Connect to the 35Vdc post on
the preamplifier power supply PWB.
– Carefully place the preamplifier power supply board in position from the underside of the
chassis. Observe the match between the holes on the side of the chassis and the PWB
standoffs. All should align. If one or more standoffs do not properly align with the
mounting holes on the chassis, loosen and then re-tighten the standoff(s) and try again.
Note that some of the connection terminals on the preamplifier power supply PWB slide in-
between connection terminals on the left channel PWB. It may take a little work to properly place
the board into position. After the PWB has been mounted, check to make sure no wires are
pinched where the connectors of the two boards mesh. Install the seven 4-40 x 1/4-inch mounting
screws from the side of the chassis to the standoffs on the preamplifier power supply circuit
board. Do not tighten the screws until all screws have been threaded. The mounting screws should
be snug; do not over-tighten.
– Find the #18 black wire from the main ground point. Connect to the ground lug on the
preamplifier power supply PWB. Do not solder.
– Find the #18 black wire from the rear panel preamplifier connector, pin #9. Connect to the
ground lug on the preamplifier power supply PWB. Solder (2 wires).
– Find the white #18 wire from the right channel PWB. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal
and connect to the N-5 post on the preamplifier power supply PWB.
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– Find the black #18 wire from the right channel PWB. Attach a quick-disconnect terminal
and connect to the H-7 post on the preamplifier power supply PWB.
– Find the #22 black wire from the rectifier PWB GND post. Attach to the available GND
post on the preamplifier power supply PWB.
– Find the #22 600 V red wire from the rectifier PWB B+ terminal. Attach to the B+ post on
the preamplifier power supply PWB.
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(a)
(b) (c)
(d)
Figure 5.16 Detail views of the 20 W Stereo Amplifier: (a) preamplifier power supply PWB, (b)
power management PWB, (c) right channel and rectifier boards (d) close-up view of the front
panel.
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6 Initial Checkout
Before performing the following steps, review the safety precautions given in Section 9 of this
manual.
After the amplifier has been assembled, the following steps are recommended to confirm
proper construction:
1) Remove ac power from the amplifier (unplug the ac line cord).
2) Remove all tubes.
3) Connect the ac line cord to the chassis. Do not connect the amplifier to an ac outlet. Using
an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the ground terminal and either line terminals. A
reading of infinity should be found. If any resistance is measured from ground to either line
terminal, proceed no further. Recheck all primary connections.
4) Measure the resistance between the line terminals of the ac cord. It should be infinity with
the power switch off, and 4 kΩ with the power switch on.
5) Remove the ac power cord from the chassis.
6) Using an ohmmeter, confirm that the resistance values listed in Table 6.1 are observed. All
readings are with reference to ground. Readings within ±5 percent are considered normal.
For resistance measurements that are influenced by filter capacitors in the circuit, the value
given is the minimum typical reading. Check the right channel and then the left channel.
Table 6.1 Typical Ohmmeter Readings with Power Removed and Tubes Removed
Tube Pin No. Typical Reading Notes
V1, V4 1 ~200 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
6U8A 2 10 kΩ With gain set control R156/R157 fully ccw (100 kΩ fully
cw)
3 ~1.1 MΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
4 47 kΩ Heater
5 47 kΩ Heater
6 ~320 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
7 740 Ω
8 15 kΩ
9 ~320 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
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Table 6.1 Typical Ohmmeter Readings with Power Removed and Tubes Removed
V2, V5 1 ~100 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
6973 2 –
3 ~170 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
4 ~40 kΩ Heater
5 ~40 kΩ Heater
6 ~170 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
7 0Ω
8 ~100 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
9 ~100 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
V3, V6 1 ~100 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
6973 2 –
3 ~170 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
4 ~40 kΩ Heater
5 ~40 kΩ Heater
6 ~170 kΩ
7 0Ω
8 ~100 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
9 ~100 kΩ Varies due to filter capacitors in circuit
V51, 1 50 Ω
6CA4 2 – Not connected
3 ~100 kΩ Varies due to capacitors in circuit
4 ~40 kΩ Heater
5 ~40 KΩ Heater
6 – Not connected
7 50 Ω
8 – Not connected
9 – Not connected
7) If any deviations from the expected values listed in Table 6.1 are observed, recheck wiring
and components for correct installation. Do not advance to the next step until the resistance
measurements are within tolerance.
8) Check the resistance between the output speaker terminals. The measurement should be
approximately 0.5 Ω for each channel.
9) After the resistance checks have been successfully completed, powered measurements will
be taken. If available, it is recommended that power first be applied to the amplifier using a
variable voltage source, ideally one that incorporates an ammeter. This will permit the
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builder to bring up the ac line voltage slowly while monitoring the current for excessive
draw. In the steps that follow, do not install any tubes until instructed to do so.
Remember that dangerous voltages are present. Be extremely careful. As a safety measure, do
not work alone. Do not let the amplifier run unattended until all preliminary tests have been
successfully completed.
Set R418 (the bias sense potentiometer) on the power management expansion PWB fully
clockwise (of not already set there).
10) Insert the rectifier tube, V51 (6CA4). Attach the ac power connector to the back panel
receptacle. Insert the ac power supply cord in an outlet. Switch the power on. The pilot lamp
should light and the filaments on V51 should be visible. Let the amplifier run for several
minutes while observing for any unusual behavior. Be very careful as high voltages are
present in the circuit.
Important note: Run the amplifier in this condition (B+ present but no amplifier tubes
installed) only long enough to complete the checks specified here. Long-term operation with no
tubes present other than V51 can result in component damage.
For reference, the following series of events occurs at power-on, listed below in order:
• Power from the front panel On/Off switch (SW51) energizes relay RYL202 on the power
management PWB. This applies power to transformers T51 and T201.
• The start-up time-delay interval begins, determined by R211 and C207 on the power
management PWB. This interval is approximately 30–60 s.
• Rectifier V51 warms up and begins applying B+ power, which is sensed by the voltage-
monitoring circuit of Q204 and Q205 on the power management PWB. Within about 15 s,
the B+ voltage has built up to 400 V dc, which energizes relay RYL205.
• The bias voltage ramps up to about –30 V or so, which is sensed by the Q404 circuit on
the power management expansion PWB. This energizes RYL402, which is part of the
interlock loop that also includes SW401 (the cabinet cover switch). Note that SW401 is
bypassed during tests and measurements.
• After the start-up time-delay is reached, the auto-off and interlock loop (B+ sense,
temperature sense, and bias present sense) circuits are enabled by the combination of
RYL203 and RYL204.
A failure in any of the previous steps will remove power from the amplifier.
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11) Using extreme caution, measure the ac line voltage between ground and the load side of
filter FL51. A reading of 120 V ac should be measured on the terminal closest to the side of
the chassis, to which the black #16 wire is connected. A reading of 0 V ac (or very nearly
zero) should be measured on the other terminal—the one with the white wire. If improper
voltages are observed, proceed no further. Remove power from the amplifier. Double check
the primary wiring and correct the problem.
12) Using extreme caution, check for proper voltages at the tube connection points listed in
Table 6.2. All voltages are measured with respect to ground using a high impedance
voltmeter. Variations within ±10 percent are typical. These measurements can be taken from
the top of the chassis by probing into the socket connection points. Take measurements on
the right channel and then the left channel.
Table 6.2 Typical Voltmeter Readings with V1/V4, V2/V5, and V3/V6 Removed
and Power Applied
Tube Pin No. Typical Reading Notes
V1, V4 1 460 V
6U8A 2 0V
3 430 V
4 60 V Heater
5 60 V Heater
6 460 V
7 0V
8 0V
9 460 V
V2, V5 1 470 V
6973 2 –
3 –30 V With Bias Adj. control at mid point
4 60 V Heater
5 60 V Heater
6 –30 V
7 0V
8 470 V
9 470 V
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Table 6.2 Typical Voltmeter Readings with V1/V4, V2/V5, and V3/V6 Removed
and Power Applied
V3, V6 1 470 V
6973 2 –
3 –30 V With Bias Adj. control at approx. mid point
4 60 V Heater
5 60 V Heater
6 –30 V
7 0V
8 470 V
9 470 V
If significant variations in the expected voltage readings are found, remove all power from the
unit (unplug the ac line cord and confirm that the power supply has discharged to 0 V) and
recheck components and wiring. Do not advance to the next step unless the voltages check
correctly.
13) At this point, the voltage at the B+ terminal on the right channel PWB should be
approximately 470 V dc; the same voltage should be measured at the B+ terminal on the left
channel PWB. Typical ac current draw from the ac line is 200 mA. The voltage at the BIAS
terminal on the right channel PWB should be approximately –30 V; the same voltage should
be measured at the BIAS terminal on the left channel PWB. Adjust the Bias potentiometer as
needed.
14) Check operation of the Bias Adjust potentiometer (R57). Measure the voltage at one of the
output tube control grids (as detailed in Table 6.2) and vary the position of the Bias Adjust
control. A voltage range of approximately –20 V dc to –50 V dc should be observed. Set the
bias voltage for –30 V dc. Note that the bias sense circuit on the power management
expansion board may remove power from the amplifier when the Bias Adjust potentiometer
is at the extreme low end of its range (less than –20 V or so).
Proper operation of the bias power supply is critical to proper operation of the amplifier. Do
not proceed further in the initial checkout unless the bias circuit is functioning correctly.
15) Check the 5Vdc connection post on the right channel PWB. A reading of approximately
+5.6 V dc should be observed. This voltage will drop to about 4 V dc when the front panel
Speaker switch is placed in the Speaker Off position.
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16) Check the voltage between the 35Vdc terminal on the preamplifier power supply PWB and
ground. A reading of approximately +35 V dc should be measured.
17) Remove ac power from the unit.
18) Set the Hum Balance control for center rotation.
19) Install tubes for the right channel amplifier. V1 may be a 6U8A or 6GH8A.
20) Set the volume control to the minimum (counterclockwise) position. Place the front panel
Speaker switch in the On position.
21) Connect a loudspeaker to the right channel output terminals. Set the front panel Speaker
switch to On.
22) Connect the ac line cord and switch the power on. Observe the tubes for any signs of
overheating or other unexpected behavior. The filaments should be lit. Remove power if any
problems are detected, or if noticeable hum can be heard from the speaker. Recheck wiring
and components as needed.
23) If oscillation or motorboating is observed, immediately remove power from the unit. It is
important that an oscilloscope be connected to the output terminals, in addition to a speaker
and perhaps other test equipment, when the amplifier is first powered up. It is possible that
high-frequency oscillation can occur that cannot be reproduced by the loudspeaker, or heard
by the builder. Monitoring with an oscilloscope is the only certain way of determining
whether any high-frequency oscillations are occurring (or very low frequency oscillations
for that matter). When connecting test equipment to the output terminals, remember that one
side of the output transformer is connected to ground. Incorrect placement of test leads can
short-circuit the output. Oscillation may also be indicated if differing bias voltage
measurements are observed on the grids of the push-pull output tubes (with no input
applied).
If oscillation or motorboating is observed, remove power from the amplifier and check the
following items:
• The output transformer primary connections to the amplifier PWB. Confirm that the leads
go to the correct positions.
• The output transformer secondary connections to the speaker PWB. Confirm that the leads
go to the correct positions.
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• The input and feedback connections to the amplifier PWB. If the 4-pin Molex connectors
are swapped (RCA input jack to Conn1 and the feedback signal from the speaker PWB to
Conn2), the amplifier will oscillate.
If oscillations persist and the above checks have been made, install C3 (3.3 pF, 1000 V
ceramic) on the right channel PWB. This component may be used to suppress high frequency
oscillations, if needed. The device is typically not required. There is a small impact on high
frequency response with C3 installed, slightly lowering the –1 dB point on the high end.
24) Switch the amplifier off.
25) Install the left channel amplifier tubes. V4 may be a 6U8A or 6GH8A. Connect another
speaker to the left channel output terminals and apply power to the unit. Observe for any
unexpected behavior as detailed previously for the right channel.If oscillations persist, install
C9 (3.3 pF, 1000 V ceramic) on the left channel PWB. The device is typically not required.
(See the cautions above for the right channel equivalent, C3.)
26) If problems are experienced, disconnect power and recheck the installation of all
components, particularly the input stage (V1) of the amplifiers. With no audio input, the
amplifier should draw about 800 mA from the ac line.
27) Remove all power from the amplifier. Turn the chassis over to provide access to the PWBs.
Note: The following step is optional and intended only for experienced technicians.
Dangerous voltages exist.
28) Confirm that a speaker (or a resistive 8 Ω load of 25 W or more) is connected to each
speaker output. Apply power and check the operating voltages detailed in Table 6.3. Check
the right channel amplifier and then check the left channel amplifier. It is normal to observe
small differences between readings for each amplifier. Any large deviations should be
investigated further.
Note that the input line voltage will have a significant impact on the voltages measured. An
ac input of 120 V ac is assumed. Note also that the bias setting will have an impact on the voltages
as well. Set the bias as follows:
• While monitoring the BIAS post on the left channel PWB, set the Bias Adj. potentiometer
(R57) for –30 V.
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With an ac input voltage of 120 V ac, the amplifier should draw approximately 800 m with no
audio input and with the bias set for –30 V dc. The typical observable surge current at turn-on is
less than 2 A.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
Note that typical operating voltages are shown in Table 6.3 and Figure 1.1 with a bias setting
of –30 V dc. These operating voltages will vary somewhat depending on tube characteristics and
variations in the ac line voltage.
29) Switch the amplifier off. Remove the power cord from the ac outlet.
30) Using a voltmeter, check the B+ supply voltage to confirm that the voltage at the B+
terminal on the left channel PWB has decreased to zero. Carefully check for component
heating under the chassis. Some components may be warm, but (other than the vacuum
tubes) they should not run hot.
31) After the tubes have cooled, install the shields on V1 and V4.
32 After the preliminary tests have been successfully completed, measurements should be taken
on the amplifier as detailed in the next section.
Note: The amplifier should be operated only with its rated load applied. Operation into an
open-circuit or short-circuit load can result in damage to components.
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Figure 6.1 The power management PWB mounted in the service position.
schematic diagram and component layouts are helpful for this. If a relay is suspected of being
inoperative, remove power, replace the device, and check again.
If more detailed troubleshooting is necessary, the power management PWB can be mounted at
a right-angle to the chassis using the L-angle brackets used during interconnection of the power
management board to the rest of the amplifier. Use the following procedure:
• Remove all power from the amplifier. Disconnect the ac line plug and check that the B+
voltage has decreased to zero.
• Remove the four screws from the power management PWB. Using the L-angle brackets,
mount the board at a right angle to the chassis deck using the available #6 hardware. Be
careful to not stress the board while mounted in this way, as it could crack the edge of the
PWB. Important: the brackets should rest against the component side of the board. If
mounted with the brackets against the foil side of the board, component damage may
result. See Figure 6.1.
– Connect the amplifier to an ac power source and turn the amplifier on. Note that RYL202
will close immediately (the state of the unit is shown on the top cover). After about 30–60
seconds, RYL204 will close. Both relays should stay closed. If RYL202 drops out after
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
RYL204 closes, then there is a problem with the protection loop. The protection loop
consists of the following elements:
– Carefully measure the V+ voltage on the board; this can be done at the anode of D203. A
reading of +25 V dc should be observed.
– Carefully measure the ac voltage at the ACneutral post on the PWB. A reading of
approximately 0 V ac (referenced to ground) should be observed.
– With a high-impedance voltmeter, measure the voltage at the junction of positive terminal
of C201. When the amplifier is first tuned on, the value will be in the neighborhood of
+1.5 V dc. Over time it will climb higher until if finally causes unijunction transistor Q201
to fire SCR Q203. This will end the auto-off time period and shut down the amplifier.
– Set the Delay Adj trimmer potentiometer for center of travel. This should result in a time-
out period of about one hour, which is a good starting point. Position the Auto-Off switch
to the On position.
– Switch the amplifier off and remove the power cord from the ac outlet. After confirming
that the B+ supply has discharged to zero, mount the power management PWB on the four
standoffs with the foil side facing the bottom plate and re-test the system. Retain the L-
angle brackets for future use.
Troubleshooting the power management PWB can present certain challenges. With this in mind,
the following tips are provided. Be certain to turn off the amplifier and remove the ac power
connector from the rear panel before doing any work underneath the chassis.
The first step is to narrow the focus of the troubleshooting work by observing the state of the
relays, as noted in the previous section. Each relay provides a visual indication of the operating
state when viewed from the component side. Use these indicators to guide your efforts.
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The time-delay circuit of Q201 through Q203 can be divided generally into two elements—
the voltage ramp/trigger circuit (Q201 and Q202), and the output driver circuit (Q203). Several
tests can be accomplished without removing the PWB, as detailed below:
• Check Q203, RYL201, and the front panel Auto-Off switch and associated wiring.
Connect a test lead to the +25 V dc power supply source on the power management PWB.
Use the schematic diagram to identify a convenient source. Attach a 1 kΩ 0.5 W resistor
to the end of the test lead. Confirm that the front panel Auto-Off switch is enabled. Touch
the end of the resistor to the gate connection of Q203 from the foil side of the board. If the
output circuit is working correctly, RYL201 should trip and shut down the amplifier.
• If RYL201 trips but the amplifier does not shut down, then RYL203 has failed to close.
More about that later.
• Assuming the Q203 output circuit performs correctly, efforts can be focused on the ramp/
trigger circuits of Q201 and Q202. Refer to the schematic diagram and check for typical
operating voltages. This can be accomplished with the power management PWB in place.
• One of the challenges in checking the operation of the auto-off circuit is the long time
delay needed to determine if the problem has been fixed (about one hour). For testing
purposes, the negative lead of C201 can be unsoldered from the PWB while still in place,
and a small value capacitor (e.g., 5 μF at 25 V) can be tack-soldered in place from the foil
side of the board. This will greatly shorten the time needed to check operation of the auto-
off system. Be sure to observe proper polarity. When troubleshooting the auto-off circuit,
remove CONN402 on the power management expansion PWB. This will allow the auto-
off circuit to run without being reset by audio present at the speaker terminals.
The function of RYL203 is to enable the protection chain (auto-off, high-voltage status, bias
voltage status, and high-temperature sensor). If the relay fails to close, the amplifier will operate
but the protection systems will be bypassed. RYL203 is triggered by SCR Q206. At power-up, the
voltage on the anode of D208 slowly increases owning to the RC time constant set up by R211
and C207. Once the voltage has built up to the break-over point of the zener diode, current is
supplied to the gate of Q206 to trip the relay. Note that this time delay needs to be at least a few
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
seconds longer than the B+ voltage buildup time (as sensed by the RLY205 circuit3). With the
component values specified, the RYL203 time delay is about 30–60 seconds.
For any SCR, typical gate trigger current/voltage parameters are specified by the
manufacturer. Within a given production run, some variations about the typical values may be
observed. If Q206 fails to close after 60 seconds, consider the following troubleshooting steps.
• With power removed, connect a high-impedance voltmeter (1 mΩ or greater) between
ground and the junction of R211/C207/D208. Switch the power on. The voltage will ramp
up from zero to +22 V within about 30 seconds. It should stay at +22 V.
• If the previous test is successfully passed, switch the power off and move the voltmeter
probe to the gate terminal of Q206. Switch the amplifier on and monitor the voltage,
which should rapidly climb to about +0.7 V, and about 30–60 seconds later (when the
junction of R211/C207/D208 has reached +22 V) the voltage should slowly increase to
+1.5 V, at which point the SCR will fire.
It is possible that, depending on the gate trigger current tolerance, the SCR will not fire after
the voltage at the junction of R211/C207/D208 has reached + 22 V. In this condition, the voltage
at the gate of Q206 may not increase to much more than +1 V. The simplest solution to this
problem is to add a high value resistor in parallel to R217. This can be done from the foil side of
the board without removing the PWB. A range of resistor values (1 mΩ to 200 kΩ, 0.5 W) may be
tried. Use the highest value device that will result in proper operation of the circuit. A decade
resistance substitution box is useful for this test, if available. Do not apply a value of less than 200
kΩ.
Note that the triggering circuit is somewhat temperature-dependent. The SCR will tend to take
more time to fire when cold than when warm. Since the exact time delay is not critical, this is not
an operational issue.
Because of the interaction of the power management expansion board with the power
management board, it may be useful to eliminate the expansion board from the system for test
purposes. General guidelines are given below:
• If the auto-off circuit will not shut the amplifier down after an hour of no-signal
conditions, try removing the connector from CONN402 on the power management
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expansion PWB. This should allow the auto off circuit to shut down based solely on the
circuit time delay, which is nominally one hour, depending on the setting of R209.
• If the amplifier trips off when RYL203 closes, the bias protection circuit, cabinet switch,
and high-temperature sensor can be eliminated from the circuit for testing. Switch the
amplifier off and remove the white wire connected to the SW203 post on the expansion
board that is adjacent to the Loop1 post. Move the brown wire from the Loop2 post to the
now-vacant SW203 post. This will close the interlock loop to the power management
board, and eliminate the bias protection circuit, SW401, and SW203 from the system.
Once troubleshooting has been completed, return the connectors to their proper positions.
– Connect speakers to the right and left channel outputs. Remove any input source from the
line input jacks on the back panel. Apply power to the amplifier
– Using extreme caution, measure the following voltages (+/–10 percent is typical). These
measurements should be taken after the amplifier has warmed up (about 1 minute or
more):
• B+ post on the left channel PWB = +340 V dc. This is the B+ supply voltage for the power
output stages.
• BIAS post on the left channel PWB = –30 V dc. This is the bias supply voltage for the
power output stages.
• Terminal 35Vdc on the preamplifier power supply PWB = +35 V dc. This is the V+ power
supply for the preamplifier power supply board. Note that this voltage should appear about
20 seconds after power is applied to the amplifier (after the high voltage supply has
stabilized).
• Terminal 35Vdc on the power management expansion PWB = +35 V dc. This is the V+
power management for the expansion board.
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• If an audio source is available, connect it to the right and left channel inputs. A music
source is preferable, since music usually reveals fundamental operational issues. Run the
amplifier with the signal source applied for a period of time and monitor the results.
The purpose of the following tests is to confirm that the preamplifier power supply circuits are
working as expected.
– With the amplifier off, measure the resistance between pin #1 and ground. The reading
should be zero ohms.
– Measure the resistance between pin #9 and ground. The reading should be zero ohms.
– Connect a short (approximately 2-inch) #18 wire between pins #7 and #8 on the auxiliary
power connector. This can be accomplished by simply inserting the wire into the socket.
– After about a minute, carefully measure the dc voltage between pin #4 and ground. It
should be approximately +400 V dc.
– Measure the ac voltage between pins #5 and #6. It should be 6.3 V ac.
– Measure the ac voltage between pins #2 and #3. It should be 115 V ac.
Preliminary tests have now been completed. Next, detailed performance measurements should
be made.
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Note that when the optional companion preamplifier is connected to the Auxiliary Power
Connector, the B+ voltage will be approximately +250 V dc. The total current draw of the
amplifier with the preamplifier connected will be just over 1 A.
Resistors R47 and R48 provide for fine adjustments of the negative feedback level to the input
stage of the amplifier (V1 and V4). The Feedback Trim potentiometers are 15-turn devices. At
one extreme, the overall feedback is approximately 24 dB; at the other extreme it is 27 dB.
Greater negative feedback results in lower (improved) distortion levels, but also reduced input
sensitivity.
The Feedback Trim potentiometers are used to maximize the negative feedback of the
amplifier for the desired input sensitivity, which is 1.0 V rms for full rated output (10 W). The
setup procedure is as follows:
• Connect a 10 W or greater non-inductive load to each channel of the amplifier. Apply
power.
• Connect an audio voltmeter to the right channel output terminals. Connect a 1 kHz audio
source to the right channel input RCA jack. Set the Volume control fully clockwise.
• Adjust the 1 kHz audio source for a voltage of 1.0 V rms at the RCA jack. Adjust R47 to
produce an output voltage of 8.9 V rms at the speaker terminals. Turn the trimmer
clockwise to increase feedback (and decrease sensitivity).
• Disconnect the test equipment from the right channel and connect it to the left channel.
• Adjust the 1 kHz audio source for a voltage of 1.0 V rms at the RCA jack. Adjust R48 to
produce an output voltage of 8.9 V rms at the speaker terminals. Turn the trimmer
counter-clockwise to increase feedback (and decrease sensitivity).
• Switch the amplifier off and remove the test equipment connections.
In addition to maximizing the amount of negative feedback, the Feedback Trim
potentiometers also compensate for minor gain variations between channels. Such sensitivity
differences are usually small, caused primarily by different performance characteristics of the
pentode input tubes.
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The power management expansion PWB works with the power management board to provide
additional functionality for the system, specifically: 1) auto-off based on an absence of output at
the speaker terminals, and 2) bias voltage monitoring. The following adjustments should be made.
– Set R402 and R408 for center of travel. Apply power to the amplifier. Connect a voltmeter
between ground and pin #2 of CONN402. Leave CONN402 connected; voltmeter probe
access can be made via the socket pin.
– Connect an audio source to the right and left channels. Program material is recommended,
rather than a tone generator.
– Turn both volume controls fully counterclockwise. Monitor the voltage on pin #2 of
CONN402. The voltage will slowly build up from 0.1 V. Turn the right channel volume
control clockwise so the program material is at a listenable level. The voltage on pin #2
should decrease to 0 V. Note that some delay is normal (about 30 seconds).
– Turn the right channel volume control fully counterclockwise. Note that after a short
delay, the voltage on pin #2 will begin increasing. Turn the left channel volume control
clockwise to a a listenable level. The voltage at pin #2 should decrease to zero.
– R402 and R408 can be adjusted for sensitivity on the right and left channels, respectively,
if desired. A center position is usually a good starting point, however.
– Run the amplifier with no input to check the auto-off circuit. The amplifier should shut
down approximately one hour after program material is removed. If the amplifier does not
shut down as it should, set R402 and R408 back (counterclockwise) 1/4-turn.
It may be noticed during use of the amplifier that with certain inputs, the auto-off circuit will
not shut the amplifier down. This is typically caused by residual noise from the input source.
Turntable sources are sometimes challenging since the noise floor for a turntable may be
considerably higher than for other inputs, such as a tuner or personal entertainment device. The
susceptibility of the silence detector circuit to noise can be determined as follows:
• Set R402 and R408 as described previously. Leave the Volume controls for each channel
in the position identified as a listenable level.
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• Disconnect the audio (program) source and wait about 30 seconds for RYL401 to open, as
indicated by a rising voltage on pin #2 of CONN402.
• Connect an audio signal generator to the right channel input. Set the output of the
generator to produce 1 kHz. Set the generator level for zero output.
• Slowly increase the generator output until the voltage at pin #2 of CONN402 goes to zero.
A value of 0.03 V rms is typical.
• Reduce the generator output by 2 dB. After about 30 seconds, the voltage on pin #2 of
CONN402 should begin to increase.
This test confirms the threshold sensitivity of the silence detection circuit, typically achieved
with the sensitivity controls (R402 and R408) set at mid-point.
– Potentiometer R418 sets the trip point for the bias sense circuit. With the amplifier
operating normally at a bias voltage of –30 V, slowly turn R418 counterclockwise until
the amplifier shuts down. Be very careful while performing this adjustment as high
voltages are present on the power management PWB and elsewhere.
– After the trip point has been identified, turn R418 1/4-turn clockwise. Reapply power and
check for proper operation. If the amplifier unexpectedly trips off, turn R418 further
clockwise.
– If a variable ac voltage supply is available, slowly lower the input ac voltage to the
amplifier from the nominal 120 V ac to 110 V ac, and then to 100 V ac. The amplifier
should continue operate normally down to about 100 V ac (maximum output power will,
of course, be considerably lower at low ac input levels).
Preliminary tests have now been completed. Next, detailed performance measurements should
be made.
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7 Performance Measurement
For performance measurements, the builder has three basic options:
• Run no further tests on the amplifier under the assumption that if built correctly it will
perform correctly. This may be a valid approach for an assembly line product where the
assembly process is well refined, but in the case of a custom-built audio device it is not
recommended.
• Perform tests at the maximum rated output of each channel (10 W). This is a reasonable
approach and should yield valid results under the assumption that if the amplifier can meet
specifications at high power, then it can very likely meet specifications at other operating
points.
• Perform comprehensive tests across a range of operating levels. This is the approach
detailed in the following section.
It is tempting, and quite acceptable, to put the 20 W Stereo Amplifier into service upon
completion of the previous assembly steps. However, if the test equipment is available, it is
recommended that measurements be taken at various power output levels (e.g., 1 W, 5 W, and 10
W, the rated output power of each channel).
It is important to note that each channel of the amplifier is capable of producing more than 10
W output into an 8 Ω load. Because the performance of any amplifier, when measured at or near
its operating limit, is not always repeatable over time, this amplifier is described as being capable
of producing “10 W per channel.” In point of fact, it is capable of producing more power than that
at low distortion levels, but it is difficult to guarantee such performance over time as the tubes
age.
Users may hear shortly after the amplifier is powered on a slight buzzing noise from the
chassis (not from the speakers) for a few seconds. This is normal. As the amplifier warms up, the
surge-limiting power thermistor bypass circuit of VR52 and C64 ramps up the voltage to relay
RYL51. During a brief portion of this ramp, the relay may vibrate slightly; however, within a few
seconds the relay will close. The speed of this action is a function of the ambient temperature.
Check the Speaker On/Off function as follows. Connect speakers to the amplifier. Feed a tone
or program material into both channels. Operate the Speaker On/Off switch and confirm proper
operation.
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The performance targets listed in Table 7.1 are just that—targets. Any given amplifier may
perform better than the target or worse than the target. It is not uncommon for one channel to
perform slightly better than the other with regard to THD and/or IMD. The most likely
explanation is differences in tube performance, although other items may factor in as well. In any
event, the amplifier should be able to come close to the numbers listed in most cases without the
need to tweak the bias operating point beyond the default value of –30 V.
With no audio input applied, the amplifier draws about 800 mA from the ac line at 120 V ac.
With typical program material applied to both channels, peak current of about 1 A is typical.
When measuring intermodulation distortion (IMD) it is important to remember that the two-tone
signal used alters the generally accepted relationship between the rms, average, and peak values,
which only hold true for single sine waves. In the case of a single-frequency signal, the meter will
indicate the rms value, while responding to the average value of the signal. In the case of the
complex waveform of a two-tone signal, the meter will respond to the average value of that
signal, but the altered relationship between the average and rms values will cause a discrepancy in
the indication. Such discrepancies are generally not large; however, the difference in peak value
of single and two-tone signals that give equal meter indications may be substantial. A correction
factor, therefore, is often applied; e.g., 81.5%.
For example, since E = P×R (where P = power in Watts and R = load resistance in Ohms),
for an IMD measurement at 10 W power output, the input signal would be adjusted to yield a
measured value at the speaker terminals on an rms-reading audio voltmeter of 7.2 V rms (8.9 V
times 0.815). The speaker terminal voltages for the IMD measurements at various power levels
are shown in Table 7.1.
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• Read the value displayed on the ac voltmeter. Determine the power as follows: P = E2/R,
where E = the voltage measured by the audio voltmeter and R = 8 (the load resistance).
For this amplifier, the voltage measured is typically 10 V, which translates to 12.5 W. This
is the maximum operating point of the amplifier.
Check one channel, and then the other. Note that the peak power available from the amplifier
will tend to decrease as the output tubes age. The input line voltage will also impact the output
power. All measurements described in this User/Assembly Manual are with an input line voltage
of 120 V ac.
7.1.4 Crosstalk
Crosstalk is a parameter that identifies the amount of signal applied to one channel that may
appear in the other channel. This parameter is not specified in Table 7.1 since nearly all stereo
material has a high correlation between channels. In any event, it may be measured as follows:
• Connect a suitable resistive load to each channel. Set the Volume control fully clockwise.
• Apply a 1 kHz signal at 1.0 V rms to the right channel input. (This will result in about 10
W output.) Connect an audio voltmeter to the right channel output. Adjust the meter to
read 0 dB on a suitable scale.
• Move the 1 kHz signal to the left channel input. Place a shorting plug in the right channel
input jack.
• Using the audio voltmeter, measure the residual signal, which will be a combination of
noise and crosstalk from the left channel into the right channel. A reading of
approximately –85 dB is typical for this amplifier.
• Return the audio voltmeter sensitivity switch to the previous setting (10 W). Connect the
voltmeter to the left channel output. Adjust the meter to read 0 dB.
• Move the 1 kHz signal to the right channel input. Place a shorting plug in the left channel
input jack.
• Using the audio voltmeter, measure the residual signal, which will be a combination of
noise and crosstalk from the right channel into the left channel. A reading of –85 dB is
typical for this amplifier.
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The square wave response of the amplifier can be measured if desired.Typical square wave
performance of the amplifier is documented in Figure 7.1 for input frequencies of 100 Hz, 1 kHz,
and 10 kHz at power output levels of approximately 5 W (average listening level) and 10 W (rated
output level). Measurements of the right channel and left channel should be essentially identical.
The following procedure is recommended:
• Set the volume controls at mid point.
• Apply a 100 Hz square wave signal to the input and adjust the generator to produce 5.1 V
rms output at the speaker terminals with an appropriate load. Adjust the audio generator to
produce 100 Hz, 1 kHz, and 10 kHz. Observe the results and compare with Figure 7.1.
• Adjust the generator to produce 7.2 V rms output at the speaker terminals with an
appropriate load. Adjust the audio generator to produce 100 Hz, 1 kHz, and 10 kHz.
The following observations can be made regarding typical square wave performance at
various power levels and frequencies:
• At 5 W power output – a) A fair amount of low frequency tilt is observed at low
frequencies (100 Hz and below). b) The response at 1 kHz looks quite good. c) The
response at 10 kHz is respectable, with no signs of instability.
• At 10 W power output – d) Considerable low frequency tilt is observed at low
frequencies (100 Hz and below). e) The trace at 1 kHz looks good, with slight ringing on
the leading edge. f) At 10 kHz the trace shows significant ripple, which is not entirely
unexpected at the operating limit.
Restating the obvious, operation of this amplifier (or any other amplifier) at its maximum
operating point has performance penalties. However, for listening at modest levels, the amplifier
performs quite well.
The bias setting for the amplifier is critical to proper operation and long-term reliability. The
recommended bias setting of –30 V has been found to be a good operating point for this amplifier
and to provide for long tube life. If desired, however, the bias may be tweaked as follows:
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
a d
b e
c f
Figure 7.1 Square wave response of the amplifier: (a) 100 Hz at 1 W, (b) 1 kHz at 1 W, (c) 10
kHz at 1 W, (d) 100 Hz at 10 W, (e) 1 kHz at 10 W, (f) 10 kHz at 10 W.
• Connect 10 W (or greater) non-inductive loads to both channels of the amplifier. Connect
appropriate test equipment to the right channel speaker output (at minimum, a distortion
analyzer and oscilloscope).
• Apply power to the amplifier.
• With no audio input applied, adjust the Bias supply for approximately –30V.
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• Connect an audio signal generator to the right channel input. Adjust the Volume control
fully clockwise. Set the signal generator to 1 kHz and adjust the input signal to provide
peak output from the amplifier (just below observable clipping); this is approximately 1.1
V rms.
• With an input signal of 20 kHz, measure THD and adjust the bias control for minimum
distortion reading. Power output should not change significantly within the bias range of –
25 V to –35 V dc.
• Change the input signal to 30 Hz and measure THD. Adjust the bias control again for
minimum distortion. The optimal setting should roughly coincide for each frequency
extreme. In the event that the optimal settings for 30 Hz and 20 kHz do not coincide, split
the difference between the two settings.
• Repeat the process for the left channel. The optimal points between channels should
roughly coincide. Note that some compromises may be necessary to provide for the best
relative performance from the right and left channels of the amplifier.
For a typical implementation, the lowest distortion point is usually found to be at a bias of
about –25 V dc. While varying the bias, it may be observed that distortion on either side of this
point increases, albeit only slightly. Be careful when adjusting bias since lower settings (less
negative) will increase the idling current. For test purposes, setting the bias for best performance
is reasonable. For long-term operation, however, it is advisable to find the ideal operating point
and then back off somewhat; e.g., if –25 V is found to be the optimal setting, increase bias to –30
V for long-term operation. Experience and performance should be the guide here. Keep in mind
that the bias may need to be adjusted over time as the tubes age. When replacing tubes, it may be
worthwhile to repeat the bias setting adjustment.
Note that the output transformer used in this circuit (Hammond 1620) is rated for operation
down to 30 Hz. The characteristics at 20 Hz are not documented and as such it is not advisable to
force the amplifier (through low bias) to make the target distortion numbers at 20 Hz. For this
reason, distortion measurement is specified at 30 Hz on the low end. This issue is more critical at
high power levels than at low levels.
With this circuit as configured, the difference in distortion performance with bias set at the
optimal level and distortion with bias set to a higher (more negative) level is relatively small, as
documented in the example given in Table 7.2. It can be seen that the increase in distortion is
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typically modest at normal listening levels, and generally an acceptable trade-off for reduced
power consumption and longer tube life. Excessive idling current can result in short operational
life of the output tubes and/or tube failure.
The difference in idling current with a various bias settings can be substantial, as documented
below:
• At a bias of –30 V, the no-signal B+ idling current = 60 mA per channel
• At a bias of –25 V, the no-signal B+ idling current = 105 mA per channel
Important note: The amplifier should never be operated with a bias setting of less than (more
positive than) –20 V. Component damage may result.
It is important to remember that high distortion readings on a given channel can be caused by
a variety of issues in addition to the operating bias point. If high distortion figures are
encountered, first try replacing the output tubes and see if that solves the problem. Next, try
replacing the input pentode. Check also for any signs of abnormal component conditions on the
circuit board, or overloading at the speaker terminals. Adjust the bias point as a last resort.
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Charts are provided with each amplifier of the measured performance of the unit over a wide
range of operating points. Figures 7.2 through 7.5 show typical performance of a representative
amplifier. The charts were produced with both channels driven.
Note that THD measurements (Figures 7.3 and 7.5) are taken from 30 Hz to 20 kHz, with a
measurement bandwidth of 22 Hz to 80 kHz. The lowest measured frequency (30 Hz) is the low
frequency operating point specified by the output transformer manufacturer (Hammond).
Figure 7.5 graphically demonstrates the high level of reserve power available from the
amplifier. The power bandwidth curves are produced by driving the input signal to each channel
at an increasing level until a specified distortion point is reached; in this case 1.5%, over a
frequency range of 30 Hz to 20 kHz. Note that for most mid-band frequencies, the amplifier can
deliver in excess of 15 W per channel.
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+0.4
+0.35
+0.3
+0.25
+0.2
+0.15
+0.1
+0.05
d
B +0
r
-0.05
-0.1
-0.15
-0.2
-0.25
-0.3
-0.35
-0.4
20 50 100 200 500 1k 2k 5k 10k 20k
Hz
Figure 7.2 Frequency response over the range of 20 Hz to 20 kHz for both channels at rated
power (10 W per channel).
0.95
0.9
0.85
0.8
0.75
0.7
0.65
0.6
0.55
% 0.5
0.45
0.4
0.35
0.3
0.25
0.2
0.15
0.1
0.05
Figure 7.3 THD plus noise over the range of 30 Hz to 20 kHz for both channels at rated power
(10 W per channel).
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1.2
1.1
0.9
0.8
0.7
% 0.6
0.5
0.4
0.3
0.2
0.1
-0
100m 280m 460m 640m 820m 1
Vrms
Figure 7.4 Intermodulation distortion as a function of drive level for both channels. The extreme
right end of the chart (1 V rms) represents the rated output of the amplifier (10 W per channel).
18
17.5
17
16.5
16
15.5
15
14.5
W 14
13.5
13
12.5
12
11.5
11
10.5
10
30 50 100 200 500 1k 2k 5k 10k 20k
Hz
Figure 7.5 Amplifier power bandwidth for both channels over the range of 30 Hz to 20 kHz.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
The differences in performance from one channel to the other are small, typically the result of
output tube matching and power output capabilities.
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Make sure to thread all screws before tightening. Use of the cover is recommended as it serves to
protect the tubes from users (and users from the tubes). It also aids cooling somewhat by creating
a “chimney effect” that collects cool air from the edges of the chassis and exhausts heated air
from around the tubes and transformers. Do not over-tighten the mounting screws.
If the bottom chassis plate has not already been screwed on, do so now.
The finished 20 W Stereo Integrated Amplifier is shown in Figure 7.6. The bottom view is
shown in Figure 7.7.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
8 Troubleshooting Guidelines
Even an audio device that has been carefully built can experience problems. When presented with
a problem, proceed in an orderly manner to trace it down. Many failures are simple to repair if
you stop and think about what’s happening. Looking over the schematic diagram for 10 to 15
minutes to consider the possible causes can save hours of trial-and-error troubleshooting. Never
rush through a troubleshooting job.
Stereo audio products offer the technician an added benefit in that the same problem rarely
manifests itself in both channels. As such, the technician has a “known good” circuit as a
reference.
When checking inside the unit, look for changes in the physical appearance of components.
An overheated resistor or leaky electrolytic capacitor may be the cause of the problem, or point to
the cause. Devices never fail without a reason. Try and piece together the sequence of events that
led to the problem. Then, the cause of the failure—not just the more obvious symptoms—will be
corrected. In high voltage power supplies, look for signs of loose connections and overheating.
Do not overlook the possibility of tube failure. Tubes can fail in unpredictable ways, and
substitution may be the only practical test.
Troubleshooting through the process of elimination can also be useful. This technique
involves isolating various portions of the circuit—one section at a time—until the defective
component is found.
Never touch anything inside the unit without first removing all ac power and discharging all
filter capacitors with a test lead to ground. Most plate power supplies include bleeder resistors to
drain-off the charge on the capacitor(s) in the circuit. However, some designs do not include this
safety feature. Be careful.
Analyze each planned test before it is conducted. Every test in the troubleshooting process
requires time, and so steps should be arranged to provide the greatest amount of information about
the problem.
See Section 6 and Section 7 of this manual for troubleshooting guidance specific to this
amplifier.
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9 Safety Considerations
Electrical safety is important when working with any type of electronic hardware. Because
vacuum tubes operate at high voltages and currents, safety is doubly important. The primary areas
of concern, from a safety standpoint, include electric shock and hot surfaces of vacuum tube
devices. Table 9.1 lists required precautions for persons working around high voltages.
Table 9.1 Safety Practices for Working Around High Voltage Equipment
Remove all ac power from the equipment. Do not rely on internal switches to remove dangerous ac.
Discharge all capacitors using a grounded probe.
Do not remove, short-circuit, or tamper with interlock switches on access covers, doors, or enclosures.
Keep away from live circuits.
Allow any component to completely cool-down before attempting to replace it.
If a leak or bulge is found on the case of an electrolytic capacitor, do not attempt to service the part until it
has completely cooled.
Avoid contact with hot surfaces within the system.
Know your equipment and do not take chances
All persons working around high-voltage equipment should be familiar with first aid
treatment for electric shock and burns. Always keep a first aid kit on hand. Obtain detailed
information from the local heart association or Red Cross chapter. Personalized instruction on
first aid usually is available locally.
It is advisable to wear glasses or other protective eye wear when building or working on
electronic equipment. Injuries can result from solder splashes, cleaning chemicals, and other
unexpected events. When trimming the leads of a component, be careful to hold the excess length
so that when cut the lead does not fly towards the face.
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The 6U8A is a medium-mu triode and sharp-cutoff pentode tube well suited to use in high-fidelity
audio equipment, particularly in phase splitter and high-voltage gain applications. The 9-contact
pinout is given in Figure 10.1. In phase-splitter circuits, the pentode unit should drive the triode
unit. The 6GH8A is an acceptable substitute.
H Legend:
Figure 10.1 Terminal pinout of the 6U8A. H
4
5
6
Pp H = heater
K = cathode, pentode (p) or triode (t)
G2p
Kp, G3p
, G = grid (1, 2, 3), pentode (p) or triode (t)
3 7 P = plate, pentode (p) or triode (t)
G1p 2 8 K
t
1 9
Pt Gt
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For certain voltage amplifier types, this device included, the maximum permissible screen
grid input varies with the screen grid voltage, as shown in Figure 10.2. Full rated screen grid input
is permissible at screen grid voltages up to 50 percent of the maximum rated screen grid supply
voltage. From the 50 percent point to the full rated value of supply voltage, the screen grid input
must be decreased. The decrease in allowable screen grid input follows a curve of the parabolic
form. The rating chart is useful for applications utilizing either a fixed screen grid voltage or a
series screen grid voltage-dropping resistor; specifically:
• When a fixed voltage is used, it is necessary only to determine that the screen grid input is
within the boundary of the operating area on the chart at the selected value of screen grid volt-
age to be used.
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100
80
Figure 10.2 Grid #2 (screen grid) input rating curve.
50
Area of
permissible operation
40
20
0 20 40 60 80 100 120
Grid #2 voltage expressed as a percentage of maximum
grid #2 supply voltage rating
· When a voltage dropping resistor is used, the minimum value of resistor that will assure tube
operation within the boundary of the curve can be determined by the relation
Ec 2 ( Ecc 2 − Ec 2 )
Rg 2 ≥
Pc 2
Where:
Rg2 = minimum value for the voltage-dropping resistor in ohms
Ec2 = selected screen grid voltage in volts
Ecc2 = screen grid supply voltage in volts
Pc3 = screen grid input in watts corresponding to Ec2
The 6973 is a 9-pin compact beam power tube used in high-fidelity audio equipment. The device
pinout is given in Figure 10.3. Operating characteristics are charted in Figure 10.4.
H Legend:
H 5 G1
4 6 H = heater
G1 K, G3 K = cathode
Figure 10.3 Terminal pinout of the 6973. 3 7 G = grid #1, 2, 3
G2 P = plate
2 8
NC
1 9
G2 P
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175 175
Type 6973 Type 6973 grid #2 = 250 V with Ec1 variable
Plate milliamperes
125
100 100
75 75
50 50
25 25
Figure 10.4 Characteristic curves of the 6973: (a) with the voltage on grid no. 2 variable, (b) with
the voltage on grid #1 variable.
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10.1.3 6CA4
The 6CA4 is a 9-pin rectifier tube used in power supplies for a variety of products having
moderate dc requirements. The pin layout is shown in Figure 10.5. This tube, like other power-
handling devices, should be adequately ventilated. Typical rating chart is shown in Figure 10.6.
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10.2 Notes
4. Data relating to operation with a choke-input filter from JJ Electronic data sheet, Cadca, Slovak Republic.
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Warranty
This product carries a lifetime warranty from WhitakerAudio, “lifetime” being defined as the
lifetime of J. C. Whitaker, the builder of this product. As long as he around and mentally
functional (hopefully a very long time), the product will be repaired if it fails under normal use.
The warranty covers all parts and labor.
There are a few limitations, which are detailed below:
1) Because vacuum tubes have a limited lifetime, the warranty covers tubes for the first 2 years
following shipment.
2) WhitakerAudio will pay shipping, if needed, for covered repair for the first year of
ownership. Thereafter, the owner pays shipping both ways if needed for repair.
3) The warranty is void if unauthorized repairs are made on the product, if the product is used
in a manner not prescribed by WhitakerAudio, or is subjected to physical abuse.
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20 W Stereo Audio Amplifier
20 W Stereo Amplifier
Cable Assembly Procedure
1 Procedure
Expandable flexible sleeving is used to bundle the wires of the cable assembly. To properly
perform the following steps, it will be necessary to have a heat gun on hand. (A common hair
dryer may be sufficient.) In addition, the preferred method of cutting the tubing is to use a so-
called “heat knife.” If such a tool is unavailable, scissors may be used.
Examine the connector body. The pin numbers are stamped on both sides of the device. Be
certain to place each pin in the correct position.
The following procedure is recommended for assembling the connecting cable.
– Prepare two 3-ft pieces of #16 black stranded wire. Attach male connectors on one end
and female connectors on the other end.
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– Prepare a 3-ft piece of #16 red stranded wire. Attach a male connector on one end and a
female connector on the other end.
– Prepare two 3-ft pieces of #16 white stranded wire. Attach male connectors on one end
and female connectors on the other end.
– Prepare two 3-ft pieces of #16 green stranded wire. Attach male connectors on one end
and female connectors on the other end.
– Prepare two 3-ft pieces of #22 blue hookup wire. Attach male connectors on one end and
female connectors on the other end.
– Cut a 3-ft length of expandable sleeving and place over the cable bundle. Cut two 3/4-inch
long pieces of heat-shrink tubing and place on each end of the sleeving. Process (heat) the
tubing closest to the connector socket. Caution: do not use too much heat as it can melt the
sleeving.
– Assemble the connector by screwing the housing onto the connector body. Install and
secure the cable clamp.
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Cable Assembly Procedure
– Slide the housing for the female connector on to the cable. Be sure to properly orient the
housing with respect to the connector.
Using an ohmmeter, identify the black wire inserted in the pin #1 position on the male
connector. This wire should be connected to pin #1 on the female connector. For the white wire
pair, the green wire pair, and the blue wire pare, an exact match between the connectors is not
necessary.
– Process (heat) the tubing closest to the connector socket. Caution: do not use too much
heat as it can melt the sleeving.
– Assemble the connector by screwing the housing onto the connector body. Install and
secure the cable clamp.
The connecting cable has been completed and is ready for use. The finished cable is shown in
Figure 1.1.
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Addendum
The 20 W Stereo Amplifier User and Assembly Manual is written with the assumption that the
user has purchased the product from WhitakerAudio as a ready-to-assemble package. For builders
that have acquired the components on their own and are using the manual as an assembly guide, it
is recommended that the parts be divided into the packaging referred to in the manual.
In the process of acquiring parts for this amplifier, a number of vendors will be used. As such,
parts will arrive lumped together and will also arrive at various points in time. The process used
by WhitakerAudio involves organizing the components into five major groups:
• 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #1 (Right Channel) components
• 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #2 (Left Channel) components
• Preamplifier Power Supply Module components
• Power Management Module components
• Power Management Expansion components
• Chassis components
Parts are organized by component number and device type. For example, all 1 kΩ 1/2-watt
resistors for the right channel amplifier PWB are packaged together. Each group of parts is placed
in a resealable (clasp-type) envelope with a self-adhesive label applied. Labels such as Avery
#5260 are useful for this purpose. Recommended envelopes include the following:
• 2.25-inch by 3.5-inch envelope (Staples no. 1 coin envelope)
• 3-3/8-inch by 6-inch envelope (Staples no. 6 coin envelope)
• 6-inch by 9-inch clasp envelope (Staples)
While this sorting requires some up-front organizational time, it serves as a check that all parts
are accounted for and speeds assembly of the PWBs and chassis components.
The following tables list the labels used for the six component groups.
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Table 1 The 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #1 (Right Channel) Component Package Labels
C1 R1 V1
47 μF, 450 V electrolytic, 1 mΩ, 0.5 W, 6U8A tube,
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
C2, C4, C5 R2, R49 V2, V3
0.22 μF, 400 V, 5% 10 kΩ, 0.5 W, 6973 tube,
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
C3 R3 V51
3.3 pF, 1000 V, ceramic or mica, 820 kΩ, 0.5 W, 6CA4 tube
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
C6 R4 9-pin tube sockets
200 pF, 1000 V, ceramic/mica, 825 Ω, 0.5 W, (quantity = 4)
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
C13 R5 4-term Molex header/housing
20 pF, 1000 V, ceramic, 220 kΩ, 0.5 W, (quantity = 3),
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
RYL1, RYL51
C16, C51, C53 R6, R7
5 V dc relay, contacts 240 V ac,
0.01 μF disc, 1 kV, 15 kΩ, 2 W, 1%
30 A, SPDT
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
C52, C65 R8 Tube socket hookup
82 μF, 500 V, electrolytic, 3.9 kΩ, 2 W, bare wire, heat shrink, tie wrap
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
C54 R9, R10 ¾-inch threaded #4 standoff
10 μF, 100 V, electrolytic, 100 kΩ, 0.5 W, 1% (quantity = 16),
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
C69 R11, R12 Quick disconnect terminal posts
47 μF, 100 V, electrolytic, radial 1 kΩ, 0.5 W, 1% (quantity = 50)
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
D51 R13 Heater circuit wire
Rectifier, 2 A, 1 kV, 8.2 kΩ, 0.5 W, 5 ft., #22, green/brown, solid,
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
Printed Wiring Board R14, R15 VR51
Speaker Terminals PWB 4 Ω,10W, Power thermistor, 10 Ω cold,
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
Printed Wiring Board R16, R17 R65
Rectifier PWB 27 Ω, 2 W, 100 kΩ, 2 W
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
Printed Wiring Board R37, R51, R61 R47
Main PWB 220 kΩ, 2 W 5 kΩ, 0.75 W, trimmer
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
Conn6 R66 R67
4-terminal Molex connector pkg. 270 Ω, 2 W, 150 Ω, 0.5 W,
Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right) Amplifier PWB #1 (right)
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Table 1 The 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #1 (Right Channel) Component Package Labels
D1 RYL1
DPDT, 10A, 24 V dc relay with
1 A 600 V diode
socket
Amplifier PWB#1 (right) Amplifier PWB#1 (right)
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Table 2 The 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #2 (Left Channel) Component Package Labels
C7 R18 V4
47 μF, 450 V electrolytic, 1 mΩ, 0.5 W, 6U8A tube,
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C8. C10, C11 R19, R50 V5, V6
0.22 μF, 400 V, 5% 10 kΩ, 0.5 W, 6973 tube,
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C9 R20 9-pin tube sockets
3.3 pF, 1000 V, ceramic or mica, 820 kΩ, 0.5 W, (quantity = 3)
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C12 R21 Tube socket hookup
200 pF, 1000 V, ceramic/mica, 825 Ω, 0.5 W, bare wire, heat shrink, tie wrap
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C14 R22 Heater circuit wire
20 pF, 1000 V, ceramic 220 kΩ, 0.5 W, 5 ft., #22, green/brown, solid,
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C18, C55, C57, C60, C62 R23, R24 4-term Molex header/housing
0.01 μF disc, 1 kV, 15 kΩ, 2 W, 1% (quantity = 3)
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C56 R25, R58 ¾-inch threaded #4 standoff
82 μF, 500 V, electrolytic, 3.9 kΩ, 2 W, (quantity = 10),
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C58, C59 R26, R27 RYL2
10 μF, 100 V, electrolytic, 100 kΩ, 0.5 W, 1% 5 V dc relay, SPDT
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C61 R28, R29 Quick disconnect terminal posts
100 μF, 100 V electrolytic, 1 kΩ, 0.5 W, 1% (quantity = 26)
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
C63, C64 R30 CR51
1,000 μF, 25 V, electrolytic, 8.2 kΩ, 0.5W, Bridge rectifier, 100 V, 2 A
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
D52 R31, R32 VR52
Rectifier, 2 A, 1 kV 4 Ω, 10 W, Thermistor, 20 Ω cold
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
D53 R33, R34 VR53
Zener, 60 V, 5 W 27 Ω, 2 W, Varistor, 18 V dc
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
D54 R42 R52 Printed Wiring Board
Zener, 56 V, 5 W 220 kΩ, 2 W Speaker Terminals PWB
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
R59 R53
Printed Wiring Board
270 Ω, 2 W 270 kΩ, 2 W
Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
R60 R54, R56 R48
3.9 Ω, 2 W 47 kΩ, 2 W 5 kΩ, 0.75 W, trimmer
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
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Table 2 The 20 W Stereo Amplifier PWB #2 (Left Channel) Component Package Labels
D2 R57 R69
1 A 600 V diode 5 kΩ, 2 W, potentiometer, 150 Ω, 0.5 W,
Amplifier PWB#2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
RYL2
Conn8 R68
DPDT, 10A, 24 V dc relay with
4-terminal Molex connector pkg. 270 Ω, 2 W,
socket
Amplifier PWB #2 (left) Amplifier PWB #2 (left)
Amplifier PWB#2 (left)
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