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Tatler Dining MY The Best Restaurants Guide 2024

This document provides an overview of Tatler Dining Malaysia, a food and dining guide. It highlights some of the restaurants, stories, and topics featured in the guide, including Sri Lankan crabs, Sarawakian heirloom rice, a 92-year-old tea dynasty, and cutting-edge chefs. It contains summaries of the Malaysian dining scene, profiles of alcohol brands from Asia, and insights from the guide's team of panellists. The editor's introduction discusses their passion for food and exploring different cultures through cuisine.

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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
714 views132 pages

Tatler Dining MY The Best Restaurants Guide 2024

This document provides an overview of Tatler Dining Malaysia, a food and dining guide. It highlights some of the restaurants, stories, and topics featured in the guide, including Sri Lankan crabs, Sarawakian heirloom rice, a 92-year-old tea dynasty, and cutting-edge chefs. It contains summaries of the Malaysian dining scene, profiles of alcohol brands from Asia, and insights from the guide's team of panellists. The editor's introduction discusses their passion for food and exploring different cultures through cuisine.

Uploaded by

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Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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THE BEST

RESTAURANTS
GUIDESri Lankan crabs,
Sarawakian heirloom rice,
a 92-year-old tea dynasty, I S S N 2 6 0 0 - 8 1 9 X
and more delectable
RM 2 0.0 0

stories to savour
P P 8 0 6 3/0 6/2 0 13 (0 3 2 2 5 3)
28

52

14

WELCOME 10 Best of the Year 20 Art of Tempura On the Cover


Awards Find out how Kenichi
5 Welcome to the Guide Our special awards go to… Ishikawa brings edomae-
A note from Tatler Dining style tempura to Tenshin
Malaysia’s Senior Writer 14 Cutting Edge
What makes a good chef ’s TO SAVOUR
knife, according to Masaru
TO START Knives’ Wayne Wong 24 Rice of Life
Discover how Langit
6 Tatler Best 18 Farm to Table Collective’s founders fell
Restaurants Discover how Secai Marche in love with Sarawakian
Twenty of the year’s most connects passionate heirloom rice and set out
interesting, impactful, and producers with talented to empower the hands
inspiring restaurants chefs behind the produce
The Lankan Crabs
Photography Billy Simon
Creative Direction and
Styling Trisha Toh
2
20

42

128

28 Of Crabs and Curries 46 Drink East 52 Restaurant


Savour the rich culinary Alcohol brands from and Summaries
history of Sri Lanka with inspired by Asia A snapshot of the Malaysian
The Lankan Crabs, Bangsar dining scene
LISTINGS
36 Whispers of Luxury 128 The Last Bite 46
Delve into the world of 50 Panellists and The secret to the best fried
bespoke tableware created User Guide chicken, according to
for top restaurants across Get to know our team of Hot Bird, Table & Apron,
the globe panellists who played a BHC Malaysia, and The
pivotal part in putting Chicken Club
TO SIP this guide together as
well as a quick reference
42 Source to Sip to understanding our
Beca Tea boasts traditional reviewing process
tea for the contemporary
palate
Managing Director GERALDINE BEH

EDITORIAL

[email protected]

Editor-in-Chief LYNETTE OW
Digital Editor SIM WIE BOON
Senior Writer, Tatler Dining KATELYN TAN
Writer, Tatler Dining CHELSEA ROZARIO
Contributors AARON PEREIRA, JENNIFER CHOO ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY
[email protected]

ADVERTISING Regional Creative Director MIGUEL MARI


[email protected]
Art Director LIEW CHIAW CHING
Head of Commercial SURAYA RAHMAT Senior Photographer FADY YOUNIS
Head of Branded Content EKE SUMBER OMARDIN Senior Videographer GOH KWEE JIN
Account Director NICOLE ANDRES ABDULLAH Video Producer IZRUL IZELAN
Account Director, Homes MAWAR PROEHOEMAN Assistant Video Editor EMRAN SHAQIF
Account Manager CHERYLL LIM
Account Manager NIGEL SEBASTIAN TATLER ASIA
[email protected]
Senior Account Executive YAP HUAY SHAN
Chairman and CEO MICHEL LAMUNIÈRE
FINANCE Chief Experience Officer SEAN FITZPATRICK
[email protected]
Chief Technology Officer JET CHOY
Finance Director SURIA PERABA Chief of Staff and Group Controller MANDY LAU
Accounting Manager FELICIA LEONG Chief People Officer MAGGIE SHEN
Accounts Executive JAYABARATHI RAMACHANDRAN
Managing Director and Editorial Director, Tatler China PACO TANG

Managing Director, Tatler Taiwan APRIL HSU


EVENTS AND CIRCULATION
Managing Director, Tatler Philippines IRENE MARTEL FRANCISCO
[email protected]
Managing Director, Tatler Singapore STEPHANIE TAY
Head of Events SHIDA MAHADI Managing Director, Tatler Thailand APINYA DOLAN
Events Executive YAOSHAN CHUNG
Assistant Circulation Manager PUNITHA NALARAJAH

PRODUCTION
[email protected]

Production Manager SHAHRUL HILAL

Tatler Dining Malaysia is published by Tatler Asia (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd Registration No: 199101019770 (230081-U)
Lot 1-01, Level 1, Block B, Plaza Zurich, No. 12 Jalan Gelenggang, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur Tel +603 2780 8833 Email [email protected]
Printed by Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd (194695-W), Bangunan Times Publishing, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan.
Tel +603-5628 6888. Tatler Malaysia is a registered trademark of Tatler Asia Limited and is used by Tatler Asia (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd under licence from the trademark owner.
Copyright 2024 by Tatler Asia Limited. All materials published remain the property of Tatler Asia (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd. Materials submitted for publication are sent at the owner’s
own risk and while every care is taken, neither Tatler Malaysia nor its agents accepts any liability for loss or damage.
WELCOME TO THE GUIDE

Behind the
scenes of the
cover story
(p.28)

A Labour of Love
Food has always excited me. A limitless medium to explore, 92-year-old tea dynasty (p.42), these are just a few stories
create, succeed and fail—the possibilities are endless. It that have intrigued, excited, and inspired me over the
is a means of connecting with others, the easiest way to past year.
experience and appreciate another culture, proof that So flip through the pages slowly, and take your time
you care enough about someone to labour in the kitchen. to savour, absorb, appreciate. I hope you will discover
I find it also forms the foundation of the majority of my a new gem of knowledge, whether a restaurant you will
memories, from making terrible meals that family and frequent or a tale that interests you.
friends smiled and swallowed, to exploring recipes with
my father when the world shut down during the pandemic,
and the joy when an ambitious dish proved successful.
Looking back over the year that has passed, there has
never been a more exciting time for the Malaysian dining
landscape. Serving as a compass through the complex
and growing industry, the Tatler Dining guide is a show
of support and celebration for our incredible local talent.
Putting the book together was nothing short of a labour of
love. From splashing curries for our cover story styled by
the talented Trisha Toh (p.28) and seeing artisans at work
at a porcelain factory crafting bespoke tableware (p.36)
to meeting the growers behind the produce at a farm-
direct luncheon (p.18) and speaking to the tea wizards of a – Katelyn Tan, Senior Writer 5
TO START | TOP 20 RESTAURANTS
ATELIER BINCHOTAN
Modern barbecue restaurant Atelier
Binchotan is often considered the best
grill house in town. There is a strong
clarity of concept with chef-owner
Lau KaHong imparting a signature
smokiness and char on his dishes that
is hard to find anywhere else.

AKAR DINING
Akar Dining is a contemporary
Malaysian restaurant that brilliantly
and innovatively celebrates local
flavours. Chef-owner Aidan Low uses
his expertise and creativity to present
memorable dishes that bring out the
best of seasonal produce.

BETA KL
Diners are taken on a culinary tour
around Malaysia with dishes inspired
by different regions with Beta KL’s
tasting menu. Chef Raymond Tham
showcases his creative ingenuity
The Top 20 Restaurants in 2024

with eclectic use of local flavours,


presenting a contemporary spin on
Malaysian cuisine.

ALIYAA
Authentic and consistent, Aliyaa
always delivers when it comes to
hearty Sri Lankan cuisine. Dishes are
beautifully presented and expertly
executed, making use of premium
ingredients.
By Katelyn Tan

7
TO START | TOP 20 RESTAURANTS

GENᵮ
Genᵮ’s take on showcasing
Malaysian food makes for a
memorable dining experience. The
restaurant pushes the envelope
for Penang’s fine dining scene
while allowing guests to rediscover
Malaysian Chinese flavours like
never before.

CHIPTA 11A
Chipta 11a takes Japanese
fusion to the next level with an
unconventional, adventurous menu.
The team’s expert knowledge of
Japanese cuisine combined with
respect for local ingredients results
in an inspiring, creative experience.

DEWAKAN HIDE KL
Dewakan is the crown jewel of With meticulous attention to
Malaysian fine dining, introducing detail, Hide KL is known for
guests to indigenous ingredients with its sophisticated and inventive
its beautiful plates while pushing contemporary dishes. Chef-owner
boundaries and advancing our Shaun Ng’s identity is present
culinary scene. on every plate, and his young yet
well-trained team are personable and
energetic.

CILANTRO RESTAURANT &


WINE BAR
French Japanese restaurant Cilantro
Restaurant & Wine Bar is a legacy
establishment, executing its cuisine
consistently well. Patrons can be
assured of delectable French cuisine
with use of seasonal Japanese
ingredients.

JWALA
Visit Jwala for elevated, authentic
Northern Indian cuisine. Each dish
ENTIER has incredible depth of flavour, while
Known for French fare that uses the use of spice at the restaurant is
quality seasonal produce, Entier nuanced and well-balanced.
effortlessly impresses with its creative
dishes that are executed to perfection.
DC RESTAURANT
DC Restaurant presents classic
French cuisine with a strong overlay
of Japanese influences with clean
execution. The restaurant impresses
year after year, and its phenomenal
attention to detail and consistency
8 deserves applause.
SUSHI MASA
Visit Sushi Masa for refined and
authentic sushi in Kuala Lumpur.
With exceptional seasonal
produce, a sublime balance of hot
and cold dishes, and course by
course progression, the restaurant
showcases why sushi is such an art.

KAYRA
For punchy and delicious sharing
plates, visit South Indian restaurant
Kayra, loved for its innovative and
honest approach to authentic Kerala
cuisine.

RESTAURANT AU JARDIN
Restaurant au Jardin boasts terroir- SUSHI TAKA
driven cuisine with a fantastic Sushi Taka gives guests an authentic
fusion of local ingredients. The edomae-style sushi omakase
team is warm, personable, and experience that is one of the best
knowledgeable, and their focus on in Kuala Lumpur. Every dish is
every detail is evident in the dining meticulously thought out and
experience. executed, and service is always
top-notch, as expected of such an
establishment.

NADODI
With its innovative stance towards
Indian fine dining, Nadodi is
an important restaurant within
Malaysia’s culinary scene. Every
course is rich in narrative, balanced,
and leaves a lasting impression.

TABLE & APRON


Table & Apron boasts excellent
hospitality, and paired with its honest
cooking inspired by the joys of comfort
STUDIO RESTAURANT food, the restaurant is always a hit.
With timeless and matured cooking,
there is no restaurant like Studio
Restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. Few
can execute dishes as seasoned chef-
POTAGER owner Christian Recomio does, while
Potager is truly a one-of-a-kind co-owner Jenifer Kuah runs the floor
restaurant, conceptualised to gracefully.
represent a convergence of
gastronomy and the arts. Attention to
detail, from the ambience and plating
to hospitality, is unbeatable. 9
RISING STAR
Aidan Low of Akar Dining
Aidan Low has impressed
with his contributions to
the industry in the past
year, working on exciting
collaborations and pushing
the envelope with new menus
featuring groundbreaking
dishes. However, through all
the changes, progress, and
innovation, Low never fails to
lose sight of what Akar Dining
does best—champion local
ingredients and present them
recognised for excellence in their respective categories, collectively elevating the

in tasteful ways.
Voted by Tatler’s panel of industry leaders and tastemakers, these winners are

local dining scene and helping to put Malaysia on the map

BEST NEW RESTAURANT


Potager
It goes without saying the From the moment you first step foot
opening of Potager was one into the establishment, the attention
of the most highly anticipated to detail is apparent in every aspect,
in recent years, and it has from dish execution and plating to
certainly lived up to the hype. service and ambience.
By Katelyn Tan
TO START | BEST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

BEST INTERIOR
Kikyo
Nestled at the foot of Lord Norman
Foster’s Gotham-esque Troika
skyscraper, Kikyo’s sophisticated
setting does its location’s pedigree
justice. This Japanese restaurant
sets to stun from the first impression
with a metallic fractal light sculpture
that dominates its double-height
atrium. While the blazing fire from
the open kitchen fuelled by straw
is a scene-stealer, Kikyo’s interiors
feel infused with warmth courtesy
of the glinting gold screens against a
backdrop of glossy subway tiles.

BEST PASTRY CHEF


Viyern Ooi of Ignis KL
Viyern Ooi stuns with
BEST SOMMELIER technical skill as well
Hafiz of DC Restaurant as innovation in the pastry
Hafiz not only knows his wine, but world. She currently
elevates the dining experience at impresses guests with
DC Restaurant with his curations delightful desserts at
and recommendations. Ignis KL. 11
BEST SERVICE
A Little Farm On The Hill
Dining at A Little Farm On The
Hill is a refreshingly informal
contrast to Kuala Lumpur’s urban
fine dining scene, with its natural,
breezy surroundings. With
seasonal menus that can be tailored
to guest preferences and a farm
tour succeeding a meal here, the
restaurant goes above and beyond
to create a memorable dining
experience.

CHEF OF THE YEAR


Masashi Horiuchi of
Entier and Potager
With the opening of Potager and
his success with Entier, Masashi
Horiuchi has undoubtedly made
a significant impact on our local
dining scene with his culinary
vision. He uplifts local farmers and
producers, expertly combining
classic French techniques with
Japanese artistry and Malaysian
12 ingredients.
IMPACT AWARD
Darren Teoh of Dewakan
A firm believer in a brighter
culinary landscape, Darren
Teoh champions indigenous
and endemic ingredients as
the chef-patron of Dewakan.
The co-founder of Kita Food
Festival has undoubtedly made
his mark on Malaysia’s dining
scene, and is committed to his
talented team, allowing them
to grow outside the kitchen.

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR


Restaurant au Jardin
This award recognises the highest
ranking restaurant, as voted on by
our panel of industry leaders and
tastemakers, and with everything
Su Kim Hock and his team have
achieved, Restaurant au Jardin is
deservedly Restaurant of the Year.
The inimitable cuisine produced
at the hands of the establishment’s
talented team is revered across the
country and internationally. 13
TO START | FEATURE
|

What makes a good chef’s knife,


according to Masaru Knives’ Wayne Wong
By Katelyn Tan. Photography by Daniel Adams

“Every chef needs a knife,” says Wayne Wong. It may chance and delve into entrepreneurship.” While he
sound obvious, but the sentence is why Wong started now spends most of his free time running Masaru Knives,
Masaru Knives, which imports premium Japanese it is not Wong’s main job—he works as the sous chef at
knives and matches them with consumers. Trained in Dewakan.
the culinary arts, Wong began his career in Malaysia and Since he was young, Wong has always been skilled in
faced a dilemma when purchasing his first knife. handicrafts and sensory subjects, from arts to music. “I
“Other than American and Japanese websites, there pursued a culinary course at Taylor’s Culinary School and
weren’t any physical stores or platforms I could consult,” furthered my studies in Toulouse, in the south of France,”
he recalls. “I bought my first knife online and ended up he smiles. Having trained in French techniques and while
spending a large sum picking something that did not Wong toyed with the idea of remaining in Europe, he
suit me.” realised he knew next to nothing about Malaysian heritage
Wong found himself having purchased a knife that was food. “It struck me that I was learning to cook based on
too long for tasks he needed: “There was no interaction other cultures without even being familiar with my own
or consultation, let alone being able to hold or have a roots,” he tells me.
feel of the tool.” As such, he was inspired to close the gap Upon returning to Kuala Lumpur, it was only fitting
between knife producers and buyers, preventing others that Wong decided to begin his career at Dewakan, known
from making the same mistake he did. for championing local produce and cuisine. “It was my
Wong began Masaru Knives during the pandemic, a first job, and I have been there ever since,” he chuckles.
time when Japanese blacksmiths were also on the hunt for When asked about balancing his chef role and knife
new partners: “The restaurant business was slow at the business, Wong admits that juggling the two proves
14 time, so with free time on my hands, I decided to take a difficult and requires sacrifice. “When my colleagues are
“A sharp knife
resting or out having fun, I’m at home wrapping knives,”
smoothens any
he says. “After I get home from my job, which is usually
past midnight, I start organising orders, packaging the
product, and ensuring the knives are ready for shipment
task, making
the following day.”
While hours are extensive, Wong is proud to be able
to advise customers on purchasing premium Japanese
execution easier
knives. “Masaru means superior in Japanese,” he explains.
“We began with this name, as our products are not typical
kitchen knives—we want to be the brand to go to when one
and allowing
is looking for quality.”
He further expands on what makes a good knife:
“Japanese knives are considered premium as most, or
for a higher
traditional ones at least, are hand-forged.” Typically,
knives made in Europe or America are not heat-treated.
Instead, machines are used to stamp out knife outlines
standard”
from a plate of metal before being sharpened. In slicing for chives or onions. “It also prevents the bruising
comparison, traditional Japanese knives are made by of ingredients such as fish or meat, while cleaner cuts
heating a piece of metal to a specific temperature before it reduce moisture release.”
is hammered into a knife shape. The first decision to be made when deciding on a knife
“The heating and hammering process not only softens is the type of steel. “Two major types are stainless or high
the metal, allowing it to be moulded but also strengthens carbon steel,” Wong explains. “A characteristic of steel
it,” explains Wong. “Impurities are released, so what is left is its sharpness and edge retention, and any knife can be
is steel in its purest form, referred to as blue or white steel, very sharp if one knows how to sharpen it.”
which can go up to a higher hardness.” This also means the However, how long this sharpness lasts depends on
knife will be sharper and longer lasting. the type of steel and craftsmanship. “Carbon steel will
When it comes to quality, the most prominent aspect retain its edge longer than stainless steel due to a higher
to look for is sharpness. “A sharp knife smoothens any hardness,” he says. When it comes to craftsmanship,
task, making execution easier and allowing for a higher Masaru Knives does not skimp on quality: “We are
standard,” Wong elaborates. He uses the example of fine working with two blacksmiths in Japan, one for our

From left: Masaru


Knives’ Wayne Wong;
a selection of stainless
steel knives from
Masaru Knives 15
16
stainless steel line and the other for our carbon steel line.” From top: Wayne Wong is also the sous chef at
Dewakan; Masaru means superior in Japanese
For users who don’t have time on their hands to Opposite page, clockwise from top: The handles
practise proper knife-caring techniques, Wong typically are made from local wood burl; the Rainbow
Damascus, made by master Takeshi Saji; Wong
recommends stainless steel as it does not rust. However, melts glue with a torch, producing smoke, to attach
to those who are looking for higher performance or more a custom-made handle to a blade
characteristics, he recommends carbon steel, which
requires regular oiling.
Wong makes it a point to interact with all his customers
who express interest in purchasing a knife through a
consultation. “I always try to understand what one is using
it for, whether home or professional use, to ensure the
knife is suitable,” he says. His culinary background allows
him to better match users with knives in terms of length
and steel: “Often, customers might not even know what
they need until after we have spoken.”
Talking through the different kinds of Japanese knives
he stocks, from the multi-purpose Santoku to the flat-
tipped Nakiri and Sujihiki slicer, it is clear Wong is an
expert in the field. While the knives come with an original
Japanese handle, customisation options that Masaru
Knives offers include changing the grip to one made with
Malaysian wood.
“For customised handles, we work closely with a wood
maker who uses local wood burl sourced from the Orang
Asli community,” Wong beams. “We are proud to be able
to give back and support local artisans in what we do.”
While Masaru Knives does not currently have a
physical store (consultations occur in customer’s homes
or at Wong’s personal residence), customers can browse
through a selection at the knife display counter in Tsutaya
Books. Wong expresses his hopes for the future: “I
want to be able to further spread the culture of Japanese
craftsmanship while equipping people with the skills to
maintain premium knives.” 17
TO START | FEATURE

Farm to Table
Secai Marche connects passionate
producers with talented chefs By Katelyn Tan

S
ecai Marche is a farm- farmers in Southeast
direct platform that Asia, co-founding Secai
aims to bridge the gap Marche in 2018. Now,
between farmers and the platform supplies
chefs. “10 years ago, I found over 800 restaurateurs
there was a disconnect in with premium produce
the market between the from nearly 400 local and
supply of ingredients and Japanese producers.
demand from consumers,” In appreciation of its
explained Ami Sugiyama, supporting chefs and
the CEO and co-founder intending to showcase the
of Secai Marche. “There talented farmers behind its
was no proper supply ingredients, Secai Marche
chain for perishable hosted its very first Farmer
items, resulting in limited Luncheon at Entier in
access to produce, a lack September 2023.
of transparency, and high In the centre of the
consumer cost.” restaurant was a beautiful
Sugiyama passionately centrepiece showcasing
set out with a mission an abundance of Secai
to establish proper Marche produce, from
18 infrastructure for sweet-sour tangerines
Clockwise, from top left: Khairill Anwar of pineapple
farm Noneh Cekgu; The event was a chance for
chefs to meet the people behind Secai Marche’s
produce; Amuse-bouche curated by the team at
Entier, showcasing Secai Marche produce; a dish of
egg, caviar, and eel, showcasing eggs from Liang Kee
and caviar from Miras Caviar; Dessert featured sweet
Achigold melon. Opposite page, from top: Masashi
Horiuchi and Ami Sugiyama; Secai Marche hosted its
inaugural Farmer Luncheon at Entier; Ignis KL’s Lroy
Lim is served a dessert of pineapple mille-feuille

courtesy of Sindiyan Farm farm’s free-range eggs.


in Cameron Highlands to The unique approach in
Achigold melon from Johor which the Kampar Perak
Bahru. Khairill Anwar of hatchery creates the ideal
Melaka-based pineapple egg-laying ambience
farm Noneh Cekgu sliced includes serenading hens
and juiced fresh pineapple with calming, classical
before lunch began. music.
The menu for the Paired with the fresh
afternoon was curated eggs was beluga caviar
for the event by the from Miras Caviar,
experienced team at Entier, based in Gilan, Iran, and
most notably executive managed by founders
chef Masashi Horiuchi and Steffen Maximilian and
head chef Romain Fabre, Brandon Gan.
and was testimony to the Next came the proteins,
ability of fresh produce to highlighting Madai from
inspire restaurant menus. Iyosui and duck from
Each course highlighted Yummykai in Penang.
a premium Secai Marche- Paired alongside was
supplied ingredient, and rocket salad from Fresh
as the dishes were served, Studio in Cameron
farmers and producers Highlands. To finish a
explained the story behind hearty meal were desserts
the star produce. in the form of succulent
The first course was melon cubes from
a medley of small bites Achigold and a pineapple
featuring white sweet corn mille-feuille made with
from Cameron Highlands- fruit from Noneh Cengku.
based Tai Chong, tender Riding on the success of
baby french beans from Secai Marche’s inaugural
Uncle Chow’s farm in Bukit Farmer Luncheon,
Tinggi, Secai Selected founder Sugiyama hopes
Hokkaido scallops, and to hold the event again,
shima-aji courtesy of Iyosui, allowing enthusiastic chefs
an Uwajima-based fish to experience the best
farm that offers complete produce from the hearts of
traceability. Uni was paired farmers. “We hope we can
with aromatic eggplant, the build awareness of farm-
latter of which was sourced direct value in the market,
from Leong Wai Kong’s creating more options
Cameron Highlands farm. for local restaurants,” she
Chefs gained insight smiles. “Chefs deserve
into the process of how better choices, quality, and
each ingredient ended up prices, which also brings
on the plate, for instance, greater creative potential
in the case of Liang Kee’s for developing dishes.” 19
Clockwise, from top
left: Head tempura chef
Kenichi Ishikawa leads the
team at Tenshin; Tencha,
kakiage with green tea and
bonito stock; Satsumaimo,
Japanese sweet potato;
Ingredients at Tenshin are
imported from Japan

Art of Tempura
With more than 20 years of experience,
Kenichi Ishikawa brings edomae-style
tempura to The St Regis Kuala Lumpur
By Katelyn Tan

While Tenshin’s head tempura chef Kenichi Ishikawa


hails from Tokyo, Japan, he is no stranger to Malaysia.
In fact, he helmed The St Regis Kuala Lumpur’s former
Ginza Tenkuni in 2016 for three years, which has just
reopened in 2023, under a new name—Tenshin.
“Before coming to Kuala Lumpur, I worked at one
of the oldest tempura restaurants at Imperial Hotel in
Tokyo for 17 years,” recalls the well-natured chef. “I was
assigned to the tempura section and have been doing
that ever since.”
Datuk Sai Men Chua, executive director of One
IFC Hotel Sdn Bhd, the company that operates the
restaurant, sits with us at Tenshin’s new space. “When
we first licensed Ginza Tenkuni (a Tokyo-based tempura
restaurant in operation since 1885) in 2016, the company
went looking for a top chef that matched its branding
20 and standards,” he explains. Ishikawa was chosen for his
TO START | FEATURE

skillset and trained for a year at Ginza Tenkuni in Tokyo the thin sheets of paper that top each serving plate, no
before moving to Kuala Lumpur. visible oil drippings appear below.
At the time, however, the restaurant was not received “This is due to the quality of oil used, which also
as well as Chua had hoped, so he decided to wait for prevents the tempura from tasting oily,” Chua elaborates.
a better opportunity. The restaurant shut its doors “Furthermore, a new tin of oil is used for each batch of
after three years in 2019, and Ishikawa returned to his tempura before being discarded.”
homeland to open his own restaurant. However, upon While many associate frying with indulgence,
hearing about Tenshin’s opening, Ishikawa jumped at Tenshin’s tempura is only lightly battered and fragrant,
the opportunity to return to Kuala Lumpur. attributed to the fresh oil. “A special blend of oils are
“In 2016, we were the first to serve edomae-style used, which are heated to a specific temperature,”
tempura, which keeps things simple and puts the Ishikawa explains. The seasoned chef is recognised for
focus on the quality of ingredients,” Chua enthuses. his talent in controlling the temperature of the oil, which
As Ishikawa places the morsels of delicate tempura on is vital to achieving a crisp coating.

Clockwise, from top left:


The flour used is imported
from Japan; The batter is
made from flour, water, and
egg yolks; The oil is changed
every two hours; A special
blend of oil is used
IMAGES ONE IFC GROUP

21
From top: Kenichi
Ishikawa has over 20 years
of experience; Ishikawa’s
blend of tentsuyu is rich
and salty

Sitting down for a meal at Tenshin, guests begin


by selecting from three sets, with only the two larger
sets available for dinner. “The meal is a journey from
start to end,” Ishikawa quips. “It begins with prawns,
which are light on the palate, then we alternate between
lighter vegetable courses and heavier seafood courses to
balance the meal.”
While ingredients may change seasonally, the
experience always ends with anago, satsumaimo, and a
rice bowl topped with kakiage, a light and crispy fritter
which, at Tenshin, is made with chopped prawns.
“Kakiage is another item that is incredibly difficult to
make,” Chua says. While typically flat, Ishikawa explains
the importance of making it into a curved, bowl-like
shape, which lends the fritter airiness and lightness.
Inviting me behind the counter, he demonstrates
how he creates the unusual shape, using a sieve and
chopsticks to mould the sides of the batter into an ideal
form. Served on a bed of rice with a choice of tendon
(sweet sauce) or tencha (green tea and bonito stock),
Temperature also plays an important role when Chua tells me that it is often considered the most
it comes to the batter. “Cold water is mixed with the important course within a tempura omakase, leaving
flour alongside egg yolks to achieve an ideal batter,” he patrons full and satisfied.
continues. Before the water is added, the flour is also While Tenshin’s initial introduction in 2016 may
strained to remove any larger lumps, ensuring a smooth have been premature, Chua is confident in this venture.
mixture. “There are so many sushi restaurants in Kuala Lumpur
The thickness of the batter also has to be controlled, now, and the knowledge of quality ingredients has
which differs according to the ingredients. “Prawns and improved,” he smiles. “With tempura, we are introducing
vegetables are coated with a thinner layer of batter which another culture of Japan at the highest possible level for
has more water, while more substantial ingredients guests to experience and appreciate.”
such as anago (salt-water eel) and satsumaimo (Japanese
sweet potato) require a thicker coating of batter.”
The aforementioned satsumaimo was a dish served
at the previous Ginza Tenkuni, and is one of Ishikawa’s
signature dishes. The root vegetable is first flash
fried, then kept in the oil to cook at an incredibly low,
controlled temperature for one to two hours. Biting into
the sweet potato, the interior is tender and bursts with
sweetness, while the exterior is perfectly crisp.
With such effort put into the ingredients, batter, and
oil, the tempura requires minimal accompaniments.
“There are only two ways of consuming tempura—either
with salt and lime, or with tentsuyu (dipping sauce with
grated radish),” says Chua.
Ishikawa points towards the bowl of salt that sits
beside one filled with lime juice: “We use a special rock
salt from Germany that pairs well with the tempura, as it
does not overpower the delicate ingredients.”
Moving on to the second way of enjoying the tempura,
Chua chips in: “Every chef has a special blend of
tentsuyu—Ishikawa’s recipe is umami-heavy, very rich
and salty.” As such, a large sphere of radish is added to
22 the dipping sauce to balance its flavours.
Punch of Flavour
As the restaurant’s tagline goes, Eat Chino,
Live Latino! By Katelyn Tan

helpful staff. For a truly remarkable


feast, indulge in showstopping
mains, including the Lamb Ribs
and the Prime Rib, sure to impress
even the most seasoned diner. While
dining, enjoy upbeat Latino rhythms
as you unwind in the stunning space.
Save space for desserts like the
Black Sesame Churros with fresh
avocado cream and the decadent
Banana Burrito, a deep-fried banana
wrapped in a pancake and served
with tonka bean ice cream.
Drinks can and should be ordered
with the meal, each bringing a
unique marriage of Asian and Latino
flavours. Try the Chew’s Daiquiri,
Pablo’s Dynasty, and the Emperor’s
Lady—one is never sufficient. For
those who prefer wines, the selection
also complements the punchy
fare served at Mr Chew’s Chino
Latino Bar.

Mr. Chew’s Chino Latino Bar


Level 23A Tower B, The Troika,

C
onceived by the same people
behind Fuego, Strato, and 19, Persiaran KLCC, 50450
the newly opened Fritz is Mr Kuala Lumpur Tel:+603 2162 0886
Chew’s Chino Latino Bar,
situated impressively within The
Troika. Inspired by founder Eddie Clockwise from top left:
Chew’s family recipes and travels House-made pickles; Baos
around Asia, the menu showcases an ranging from Barbacoa
to Korean Duck; the
inventive fusion of Asian and South restaurant’s family Yee
American flavours. Sang makes an annual
appearance; the restaurant
A meal here is fun and engaging, occupies a cosy corner
making it perfect to be shared
with good company. Begin with
its signature nori tacos filled with
salmon, unagi, or vegetarian mango
options before moving on to heartier
fare. Not to be missed are the water
chestnut and curry dumplings, Mr
Chew’s “Almost-famous” Chicken
Wings, and the tender yet crisp
Korean Duck Fajitas. Don’t forget
to ask about the monthly specials,
expertly recommended by the
OF

Langit Collective’s founders fell in love with


Sarawakian heirloom rice and set out to
empower the hands behind the produce
By Katelyn Tan
TO SAVOUR | FEATURE

From top: Long


Semadoh valley in
Sarawak; paddy seeds.
Opposite page: A
dish at Beta KL that
uses Long Semadoh
heirloom rice

R
ice was not always on the months—in a way, it goes through
cards for Melisa Lim, natural selection to be the best of
Lilian Chen, and Chan Zi every season.”
Xiang. In fact, the three Long Semadoh’s pristine
founders of Langit Collective were location in the heart of nature also
colleagues at a non-profit, building contributes to the high quality
water systems for the community grains. “The area is surrounded by
in Long Semadoh, Sarawak, mountains and clean, spring water,”
when they were astounded by the Lim explains. “Rice is planted and
heirloom rice the village grew. harvested by hand, and buffalos are
“We realised our knowledge of still used to fertilise the fields.” These
rice was limited to white, brown, and conditions combined—the seeds, the
imported rice, since we came from natural surroundings, and the care
IMAGES LANGIT COLLECTIVE; BETA KL; POTAGER; SHHHBUUULEE; DEWAKAN; GEN

urban areas,” Lim recalls. “When we from farmers–all translate into the
discovered the wide variety of rice final outcome.
in Long Semadoh, we were blown As cliche as it sounds, the rest
away as we never knew rice could was history. “It was a little love affair
taste so good.” with rice,” she laughs. Getting to
Much of this can be attributed know the community that grew the
to the origin of the rice. “The rice, the trio realised that while the
community has been using the grains were often in excess, farmers
same seeds since their ancestors were unable to monetise the crop
began farming, which is at least due to a lack of infrastructure—Long
three generations old,” she explains. Semadoh is in the highlands, far
The word heirloom refers to an from towns, and the surrounding
indigenous crop that has been passed communities could only support
down through families or groups. them to an extent. Furthermore,
“Rice in Long Semadoh is grown price fluctuations were often
once a year, which means the seeds unfavourable to farmers. “It began
are selected and replanted every 12 with the simple idea of helping 25
“It began with the simple idea
of helping farmers match their
incredible produce in remote
places with the wider market”
From top: At Potager, guests
chose from four types of farmers match their incredible
Langit Collective rice as a produce in remote places with the
highlight on the tasting menu;
Shhhbuuulee’s dish of Beras wider market,” she explains.
Adan cooked in a broth of Currently, Langit Collective has
kaffir lime and mushrooms,
kulim oil, sautéed maitake, five core rice varieties, two of them
and a lightly cured egg yolk white (Beras Adan and Beras Salleh),
one red (Beras Sia), and two black
or purple (Beras Keladi and Beras
Rumie). “While size and colour set
them apart visually, each variety
has its own unique taste, flavour,
and texture, which really brings
the consumer on a journey,” Lim
enthuses. “Beras Adan is remarkable
as a white rice, as it is incredibly
fragrant, soft, and results in the best
porridge one can possibly make.”
On the other end of the spectrum
lies Beras Rumie, which when
cooked, turns a deep purple. “It
smells akin to glutinous rice, and has
a lot of elements of surprise,” she says.
Like Beras Adan, Beras Rumi lends
itself to porridge well.
“Chefs often use Beras Sia, our
red rice, which is slightly nutty
while gentler in terms of mouthfeel
compared to brown rice,” Lim
explains. “Beras Keladi, the other
purple rice, has a pandan and nutty
fragrance.” Each variety brings
its own, unique character, so it
is unsurprising that chefs across
Malaysia have fallen in love with
the grains.
“One of our earliest supporters
was chef Darren Teoh of Dewakan,”
she recalls. “We always felt rice was
a staple, but working with him and
seeing him translate it into exciting
dishes blew our minds.” Langit
26 Collective also works closely with
Lim Heng Kit of Li Restaurant, Clockwise, from top
left: A dish at Dewakan
who uses the rice in the eatery’s featuring Beras Rumie rice
comforting rice bowls. Beta KL's puffs; a dish at Gēn that
uses Beras Adan in the
Raymond Tham and Chocha form of a pomfret porridge;
Foodstore’s Mui Kai Quan were also planting season
some of the earlier adopters of their
heirloom rice. “It is a wonderful
time and space in the local dining
industry to see how chefs utilise local
ingredients and manipulate them
into impressive dishes,” Lim says
excitedly.
While Langit Collective delivers
in terms of quality and taste, it also
offers traceability. “We purchase
directly from individual farmers,
and [Chan], one of our co-founders,
spends three quarters of his time at
Long Semadoh, doing farm audits
and procurements,” Lim says. As
such, customers can rest assured
knowing exactly where their grains
come from.
While Langit Collective began
with rice, its reach has expanded to
different farming communities, such
as spices, to match more producers
with consumers. “With eight years of
experience, we have started sharing
our knowledge through training in
rural areas to equip more people with
the skills to bring their own products
to market,” she says. “When we first
began, it was a naive idea, but our
supporters were courageous enough
to give us a chance to discover
diverse Malaysian ingredients and
share them with the world.”
TO SAVOUR | COVER STORY

A selection of The Lankan


Crabs’ bestselling crab dishes
OF
AND

The Lankan Crabs, Bangsar brings one on


a journey through the rich culinary history
of Sri Lanka By Katelyn Tan. Photography by Billy Simon
Creative Direction and Styling by Trisha Toh
he Lankan Crabs, Bangsar was founded in for those who are prepared to brave the heat. Bold
March 2020 with one intent—to introduce and robust, the curry brings rich depth, contrasted
rich and authentic flavours from the with the tamarind juice it is topped with. While
shores of Sri Lanka to the culinary trove of traditionally a Sri Lankan dish, the Black Pepper
Malaysia. Specialising in seafood, the cosy Crabs is a testament to the restaurant’s ethos of
crab house sits along the bustling streets of embracing locally sourced ingredients—the dish is
Bangsar’s Jalan Kemuja, patterned with colourful tiles steeped in rich olive oil and butter, and aromatised
and rustic fittings. with hand-crushed Sarawak black pepper.
While Kuala Lumpur is undoubtedly home to a While crabs are the star of the show at the seafood
wealth of seafood-forward eateries, what sets The restaurant, a meal is incomplete without trying the
Lankan Crabs apart is its commitment to the culinary selection of complementary dishes. For instance,
traditions of Sri Lanka. The island boasts a range of the Mutton Bone Gearbox Fried Rice is a nod to
regional specialities, and the Bangsar-based restaurant comforting Malaysian soups of marrow-rich leg
navigates this culinary culture through its dishes, bones, made by simmering flavourful mutton bones
bringing a taste of home to Sri Lankans and a novel until tender before being combined with fragrant
experience to local food enthusiasts. basmati rice and rich spices.
Sri Lankan cuisine is rooted in the history of the For those looking for a plant-based alternative,
region’s spice trade, resulting in bold and aromatic the Vegan Moringa Drumstick Fried Rice is made
dishes featuring spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, with Moringa oleifera, commonly known as the
cloves, and black pepper. The use of coconut in all its drumstick tree due to its slender pods. Moringa
forms, from coconut milk to its freshly grated flesh, is sticks are imported from India and aromatise the
also prominent, presenting itself in rich and creamy rice dish alongside spices and fragrant basmati rice,
textures. accentuated with a sprinkling of fresh teardrop-
As per its namesake, a feast at The Lankan Crabs shaped Moringa leaves and an array of spices.
centres around the pincered crustacean. Live mud The Lankan Crabs’ Malaysian head chef Mohamad
crabs are flown in from Indonesia daily, and star in the Juhairi bin Radzali, and sous chef Abd Rasol bin
restaurant’s signature dishes alongside Sri Lankan Jalil have mastered the art of traversing Sri Lankan
spices and premium local ingredients. flavours and adapting them for the Malaysian palate.
The Negombo Crab Curry is a Singhalese classic, While the restaurant stays true to its Sri Lankan roots
paying homage to the island’s culinary heritage with through its diverse repertoire of dishes, Malaysian
spices from the west coast of Sri Lanka. Creamy, touches are present in the use of local ingredients
sumptuous, and mildly spiced, the curry coats the and the hospitable team, bridging the two cultures
glistening, sweet crab meat. Hailing from the Tamil through a unique experience that celebrates
heritage of Sri Lanka is the Jaffna Crab Curry, ideal traditions.

30
Fish Head Curry
Negombo, Jaffna, and
Garlic Butter Udang Gajah
Mutton Bone Gearbox
Fried Rice and Vegan
Moringa Drumstick
Fried Rice
Watalappam,
Sri Lankan Milk Tea,
and Mango Lassi

35
A selection of
Legle Porcelain
collections.
Opposite page:
Kevin Chang

36
TO SAVOUR | FEATURE

Inhesion Asia’s managing


partner Kevin Chang and
sales director Anthony Tan
shed light on the bespoke
tableware they create for top
restaurants across the globe
By Katelyn Tan. Photography by Daniel Adams

It’s all in the details when it comes to


a dish, and this includes the vessel
it’s served on. “Gastronomy is an art,
and we contribute to completing
this experience, bringing everything
together to create a lasting
impression,” Kevin Chang, Inhesion
Asia’s managing partner says.
Chang, and sales director Anthony
Tan sit opposite me in a display
room holding various tableware
collections in an array of shapes
and sizes within the company’s
manufacturing plant in Klang.
“Take a simple porcelain plate as an
example,” he continues, pointing to
a delicate white plate to my right.
“What we strive for is finesse, from
thickness and gloss to evenness of
shape, giving chefs a worthy canvas
to present their art.”
Inhesion Asia was founded 45
years ago by Chang’s father, and is
now managed by the younger Chang
and his two brothers. An avid lover
of gastronomy and wine, the older
Chang would often bring his family
on his travels to dine in restaurants
around the world, passing this
passion down to his sons. “Aric,
the eldest, is the company’s COO
and Desmond, my second brother,
is the CEO,” Chang explains. “We
took over from our father in 1993
and slowly shifted our focus to the
HoReCa (hotel, restaurant and café)
sector over time.”
While Inhesion Asia was always a
ceramics manufacturer, the brothers
decided to take a stake in Legle
Porcelain in 2009. At the time, the
120-year old family-run porcelain
heritage and practices within
cultures to technical considerations
such as the size and temperature of
dishes,” he says. For instance, Legle
Porcelain once developed a pasta
plate with increased thickness for
a lobster pasta dish, allowing it to
retain its heat even when customers
take time to photograph the dish. “It
is cooked to a certain temperature,
presented, and once guests are
ready to eat it, it should still be at the
perfect doneness,” Tan smiles.
Chang chips in: “One of our assets
is that we understand the worlds
of gastronomy, manufacturing,
and design, allowing us to produce
bespoke sets tailored specifically
to a chef ’s dishes.” After a complete
picture is formed, the team curates
a brief that is passed to Legle
Porcelain’s London-based design
house. “This is what we are valued

“We need to understand all aspects


of the experience, from heritage
and practices within cultures to
technical considerations such as the
size and temperature of dishes”
— ANTHONY TAN
business focused on bespoke techniques and luxury standards
curations for prestigious customers, while catering to Asia’s hotel and
from private jets to royal families. restaurant sector. “At the time,
“It was a small company with great most restaurants and hotels used
heritage, and we resonated with its European tableware brands that
values,” Chang expands. “There are did not have the ability to work with
few brands in the world that come chefs to evaluate custom needs,
with such prestige, and we wanted to whereas we were able to offer this
bring that to Asia.” service.”
As such, for the past 14 years, a Tan talks me through the
shift was made to bespoke services, process of curating and designing a
maintaining Legle Porcelain’s collection. “We need to understand
38 traditional manufacturing all aspects of the experience, from
for—our ability to pick a chef ’s
brain, speak in their language, and
materialise exactly what they want in
its physical form.”
While on paper, the process may
sound streamlined, it is anything
but. “Working with artists, one
needs to be flexible, patient, and
understanding,” Chang continues.
“We only cater to the best, who want
a luxury experience for all guests.”
Legle Porcelain also caters to hotels,
from Rosewood and Mandarin
Oriental to The Peninsula, who
also need to consider the overall
image around the world while
catering to operational functionality.
“Balancing all these needs and
elements, we design collections that
have finesse but are durable enough
to be handled by thousands across
the world,” he adds.
Take Mandarin Oriental,
Kuala Lumpur for example. “The
colour scheme of black and gold is
consistent throughout the hotel,
from elevators to suites,” Tan
comments. He notes the beautiful
set of black and gold plates and
teacups laid out in front of us is
identical to that in the Mandarin

From top: A jigger


moulds the porcelain;
an artisan spraying a
bowl. Opposite page,
clockwise from top
left: Anthony Tan;
an artisan paints the
gold rim on a plate; an
artisan placing decal
on a bowl
Clockwise from top left:
Handles are removed
from a mould; plates on
a conveyor belt are being
heated; an artisan paints
the gold handle on a cup

Oriental’s Royal Suite, utilised


specifically by the Yang di-Pertuan
Agong of Malaysia.
In 2017, Legle Porcelain created
the Espace 1.0 collection for Julien
Royer, the chef-owner of Odette,
Louise, and Claudine. “My brother
Desmond, the brain behind the
design and concept, worked
closely with [Royer],” Chang says.
Translating into space in French,
the Espace collection represents
an arena to elevate and showcase to uplift the enjoyment of a dining of a selection of teapots,” Chang
Royer’s creations. “What we have experience to a new level. says. Since tea is best brewed at a
is just simple, white plates, but the Legle Porcelain’s understanding particular temperature, the teapots
attention to detail is immaculate,” of the culinary sector has positioned are filled with warm water up to a
adds Tan. For instance, one of the them as a valuable asset, winning marker, before being topped with
dinnerware vessels is notched, the hearts of chefs and hotels boiling water to achieve a precise
allowing diners to easily grasp a across Asia. “We are working with temperature. The walls of the
dish of pigeon lightly perched on 76 Michelin stars in China, 46 teapots also differ depending on the
the indent. stars in Hong Kong, and 17 stars variety of tea, as some teas are suited
“Just last year, [Royer] decided in Singapore, just in Asia itself,” to hotter water (such as pu’er tea)
he wanted a new collection that Chang says of the restaurants they and some suited to cooler water (for
was even finer, but not deviating have created collections for. Closer instance, green tea).
away from the original spirit, so we to home, you may notice Legle While Legle Porcelain may cater to
developed Espace 2.0,” Chang says. Porcelain’s collections in restaurants restaurants all across Asia, 85 per cent
Compared to its original counterpart from the likes of DC Restaurant and of manufacturing occurs within plants
with sharper edges, Espace 2.0 Restaurant au Jardin to Dewakan in Malaysia, such as the one we sit in.
features smoother surfaces. and Potager. Tan takes me through the factory, and
I nod in agreement as Chang In the last four years, the team I am blown away by the craftsmanship
adds: “If the collections were also developed Ruyi Gastronomy, that goes into each individual vessel.
placed in a museum, they would an evolutionary sub-brand that Each process, from the making
be mistaken for a piece of art.” And focuses on the cultural aspects of of moulds, shaping of porcelain,
that is exactly what Legle Porcelain tableware, especially within Eastern production of decal (a transfer system
wants to achieve—tableware that culture. “The first collection was that applies a pre-printed design to
is admired, appreciated, and able Aroma back in 2018, which consisted tableware), and hand-painting of gold
rims, is done by skilled artisans, some
of whom are third-generation experts.
Quality control is also immaculate; as I
look through a pile of rejects, faults are
hardly visible to the untrained eye.
Touching on the future, Chang
hopes to create more value for the
industry, constantly learning from
every individual partnership. “The
artists will never get enough from
us and we will never get enough
from the artists,” he smiles. “We
are partners, hand in hand with the
creators, gaining new knowledge
as our services are utilised to bring
groundbreaking creations to the
40 next level.”
menu. Guests keen on tasting the
chef ’s specialities can begin with
the Japanese Style Hors d’Oeuvre,
a unique selection of five bite-sized
appetisers designed to whet the
appetite and showcase the chef ’s
favourite Japanese flavours. On
chilly nights, Zipangu’s Australia
Wagyu Sukiyaki is a crowd
favourite, a perfect hearty mix of
beef and broth to nourish the body,
going exceptionally well with a bowl
From top: Chef Kazuo
Takizawa serves fine Japanese of Japanese rice.
cuisine amassed from three There’s a selection of premium
decades of experience;
Australian Wagyu Beef proteins and vegetables cooked
Sukiyaki Style Hot Pot; Zeitaku at the teppan should you desire
Zanmai Course
something from the grill, or
a selection of tempura is also
available.

Hitting the Mark


Zipangu by Nadaman at Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur
Sake lovers should also know that
Zipangu serves premium sake and
shochu.

Zipangu
offers Tokyo-style gastronomy in the heart of the city Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur,
11, Jalan Sultan Ismail,
Few understand the legendary for a daimyo, the restaurant serves 50250 Kuala Lumpur
Japanese dedication to excellence a nine-course meal with all the Tel: +603 2074 3900 / +603 2786 2378
in gastronomy and hospitality finishings—pan-fried wagyu with
like Nadaman, a longstanding kohmi, assorted sashimi and sushi,
restaurant group with roots dating prawn chawanmushi, grilled miso
back to 1830 Osaka. In modern marinated gindara fish, and much
times, the Nadaman group more.
maintains numerous restaurants Those looking to savour the
overseas, with Zipangu at the iconic refined elements of kaiseki cuisine
Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur being can also do so at Zipangu. This
one of five Japanese restaurants special omakase dinner requires
outside Japan. at least a booking of seven days in
Leading this Tokyo-style advance for the chef to make the
restaurant is chef Kazuo Takizawa, necessary preparations and source
who boasts over 30 years of culinary the finest ingredients.
expertise cooking in Japan and Diners can also instead select
around the world. The chef comes their favourites from the à la carte
from a family of culinary artisans
and was inspired by his father
to join the pursuit of excellence.
Highly skilled in his craft, Takizawa
specialises in seamlessly blending
the old with the new.
Chef Takizawa’s wealth of
experience has allowed him to
create a varied menu showcasing
WORDS TIEN CHEW

the finest elements of Japanese


cooking. Opt for the Chef ’s Special
Shokado Bento Box for a genuinely
indulgent lunch. In this bento set fit 41
Source to Sip
“We are neither a tea bar nor
a trend,” smiles PC Koh, the
fourth generation of one of the
oldest tea purveyor families in
Malaysia. “We are tea people.”
Beca Tea boasts traditional tea for the contemporary palate For 92 years, the Koh family has
By Katelyn Tan been in the tea business; PC’s great
grandfather was a tea farmer from a
tea village in Fujian, China, the only
trade the village knew. “As such, his
son, who was my grandfather, was
also educated in tea production, and
was tasked to carry the tea to nearby
towns to sell or trade,” explains PC.
Eventually, the family
emigrated to Malaysia, and PC’s
grandfather continued to do
what he knew best—blending
and selling teas, and together,
the family grew the business.
“Five generations later, tea
remains at the heart of the family.
“We eat, breathe, and live for tea,”
chuckles PC. “Some of my friends
IMAGES BECA TEA

used to joke that I had tea running in


my veins.” It was a family secret how
the first generation Koh processed
42 teas, a skill he passed down to the
TO SIP | FEATURE

From top: The five signature purist


blends; one of many buying trips
to Fujian, China, where the Koh
family is from; Beca Tea’s Umami
Tarik. Opposite page, from top:
The fourth and fifth generations
of the Koh family; the family tea
business was established 92 years
ago along Jalan Tun HS Lee

younger generation in the family.


Many of PC’s earliest memories
revolve around tea, including
morning sessions he would
share with his father tasting
teas. “My father was typically
an impatient man, but when it
came to tea and inducting me into
the trade, he was surprisingly
forgiving,” he reminisces.
As a child, PC and his extended
family used to live on a one-acre
piece of land in the heart of Kuala
Lumpur, where family life and
tea-production commingled. At
the time, teas from China arrived
semi-finished and required
roasting at a constant temperature.
“I have vivid memories of stoking
the embers of the charcoal fires
that were kept alive twenty four-
seven to roast tea,” he says.
Fifth-generation Joshua Ong,
PC’s nephew, who sits with us
in Beca Tea alongside PC’s wife,
Wong Rin Rin, also shares similar
tea-centric experiences. “There
was always a large, communal
pot of tea in the house, filled with
oolong or tieguanyin, that everyone grandfather started pedalling a beca (trishaw),” PC says, referring
would drink from,” he smiles. tea out of a tin trunk in the 1930s to the namesake of Beca Tea.
Tea remained at the centre of across Kuala Lumpur, pulling it on “As a family that grew up
the family, but over generations, understanding tea, we wanted
perspectives shifted as times to show people what tea could
changed. The fourth and fifth be,” Wong explains. As such, the
generations of the Koh family brand was born with the hope to
felt that in the current climate, educate on the purity and beauty
available tea offerings were at two of the drink, a product of nine
extreme ends—a more expensive, decades of knowledge and expertise
inaccessible set up that takes passed down five generations.
time, and at the other end, fast- From the very beginning, the
moving boba joints with syrup- family shied away from sugars,
laden offerings that overpower syrups, preservatives, and
the natural flavour of teas. colourings, making use of real
While for the past 92 years, botanicals and fruit infusions.
the family has been selling its “Living in Malaysia, a land
teas directly to businesses, Beca where locals love their sugar,
Tea is the first customer-facing we might be foolhardy,” laughs
initiative from the family. “My Ong, who played a key role in the 43
Clockwise, from top right:
Joshua Ong, fifth generation;
while it brands itself as a
grab-and-go, the Beca Tea
store is much more; Squash
Supreme drink

profile, stevia, a natural sugar and-go store, the beautifully


substitute, is incorporated. designed, minimalistic space also
At the core of all the drinks, offers customers a chance to sip
however, lies tea. Five bases of tea and share behind tea-dyed fabric
form the foundation of all drinks: installations, learn about the craft
white, green, oolong, pu’er, and through musings on the walls, or
black cold brew. “The next step sample tea while waiting in line.
was to find ingredients that make “We’re a modern tea shop
our teas sing, so we worked with alternative, offering healthy,
mixologists to refine our drinks,” crafted beverages you’ve never
Wong says. “The collaborations were tasted,” PC says. “While sharing
often creative and spontaneous, the art of tea is a serious mission,
sometimes our consultants took we are fun-loving people that
the lead on crafting certain drinks, want to share the secretive and
and other times we let them conservative trade of tea.”
fine-tune our own creations.” The family love exploring tastes,
The Squash Supreme reflects this cultures, and history of food,
collaborative process: “We wanted and want to give customers the
to see how the naturally sweet fruit chance to journey together with
paired with oat milk,” Ong shares, as them. A tea bar is set up next to
he places down a cup of the signature the counter with rotating flavours
drink in front of me. “One of our each month, showcasing different
mixologists felt it needed some bite, teas from around the world.
so we added grass jelly, and topped During my visit, on pour is pink
the drink with balsamic vinegar to Kashmiri tea from Pakistan, served
cut through the rich milk foam.” with a sprinkling of green pistachios.
The outcome is a wholesome “While tea originated from China, tea
drink filled with textures from shoots were brought to countries such
the grass jelly and squash and as India, Kenya, and Indonesia during
fragrance from the tea, but colonial times,” PC explains. Much
without the cloying decadence of like in the case of wine, tea takes on
commercial milk tea. “We alternate different characteristics depending
recipe development process. between roasting and steaming on where it is grown due to the terroir.
While most fruit teas contain the squash at our production “We have an audacious mission to
fruit-flavoured syrups rather facility,” he adds, as I compliment take a bit of narrative away from the
than real fruit, Beca Tea tries the mouthfeel of the fruit. coffee world, to satisfy the sheepish
to let fresh fruit and vegetables It took a year of research and boba junkie, and to give quiet tea
speak for themselves. At times, development before the drinks were drinkers the space they need,” Wong
the essence of herbs are extracted, launched at the brand’s flagship smiles. An admitted coffee aficionado,
and when sweetness is needed store at Damansara Uptown. I find myself excited, for the first
44 to achieve a certain flavour While it is, at its very core, a grab- time in a long time, about tea.
Clockwise from left:
Experience cooking your
preferred cut of Wagyu
on a sizzling slab of Mt
Fuji lava stone tableside;
Kingyu only uses
premium halal Wagyu
from Japan; indulge in a
variety of Wagyu sushi;
Wagyu enthusiasts can
get in close in the action
at Kingyu’s six-seater
counter

Grilling in Private
Experience Tokyo-style aesthetics and Wagyu delicacies
in a hidden dining setting at Kingyu By Tien Chew
Those longing to fly to Tokyo its Wagyu tableside to allow 10 types of Wagyu sushi, and
to experience the metropolis’ diners to observe the quality carpaccio. Kingyu’s Wagyu pot
many culinary gems can satiate and marbling of its beef before rice, which uses prime meat
their gastronomical wanderlust it is cut, weighed, and grilled marinated in a secret sauce and
at Kingyu, a Wagyu-focused on a sizzling slab of lava stone cooked with rice, is another
Japanese restaurant in Desa Sri from Mt Fuji. Kingyu offers a must-try.
Hartamas. Inside bears an inviting variety of 15 salts and sauces to
interior designed by a Tokyo-based give diners the freedom to enjoy Kingyu
firm that emphasises privacy, as Wagyu however they prefer. 1st Floor, 8, Jalan 24/70a, Desa Sri
reflected in Kingyu’s 22 private Other notable signatures Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
dining rooms, each inspired by include the Wagyu tartare, over Tel: +603 6206 3515
traditional shoji screens contrasted
by bright, stylised patterns.
Wagyu enthusiasts can
experience prized beef via
numerous Japanese cooking
techniques and styles with the
restaurant’s Premium Wagyu
Omakase, which features ten
signature dishes. Highlights include
Wagyu tempura hand-rolled sushi,
four kinds of premium steak cuts,
roasted sirloin sushi, and grilled
Wagyu pot rice.
The restaurant presents 45
From top: L’Or de
Jean Martell Zodiac
Edition – Assemblage
du Dragon; Hennessy
Paradis. Opposite
page, from top: Roku
Gin; Glenfiddich Grand
Yozakura;JohnnieWalker
BlueLabelElusiveUmami

With Asian markets driving a huge volume of alcohol sales, we take a look
at some drink offerings inspired by Eastern elements By Aaron Pereira

MARTELL of the luxurious decanter is the limited edition collection for the
Martell introduces the exquisite intricate crystal dragon head. Hennessy VSOP, XO, and Paradis
L’Or de Jean Martell Zodiac (pictured below) in honour of the
Edition – Assemblage du Dragon HENNESSY dragon. Yang combined traditional
for the Year of the Dragon. Maison Hennessy engaged Chinese drawings with striking digital
Following the releases of the artist Yang Yongliang to design art, which literally breathes life,
previous two iterations, for the this Lunar New Year’s striking movement, energy, and fire into
zodiac year of the tiger and rabbit,
this rare and exclusive cognac
comprises a careful selection of
liquids drawn from different Years
of the Dragon—meaning only old
eaux-de-vie from years like 2012,
2000, 1988 and so on are used for
the bottling. As such, less than
750 bottles of the rare liquid are
available globally. It is said that the
cognac evolved to include notes
of Chinese cinnamon, Sichuan
pepper, cedar and sandalwood,
among others. Working with
Baccarat—a French luxury house
and manufacturer of fine crystal,
46 the show-stopper (pun intended)
TO SIP | FEATURE

a collective of metallic dragons


dancing in and out of waves. The
unique artwork has incredible
attention to detail, with a three-
dimensional element which brings
out even the texture of the dragon’s
skin and teeth. Each bottle features
a colour embodying the new year’s
aspirations—red for joy and luck
and gold for prosperity.

JOHNNIE WALKER
BLUE LABEL
Capturing Asian taste buds, the
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive
Umami is a limited edition release
collaboratively crafted by Emma
Walker, a master blender of Johnnie
Walker and renowned Japanese chef spirits, such as whisky, vodka, and in the traditional gin taste as the
Kei Kobayashi—founder of three gin, that are inspired by Japanese base, which is then amplified by
Michelin star restaurant Kei, in nature and masterfully crafted characteristic Japanese botanical
Paris. The result is a blended whisky using Japanese methods. Among elements with yuzu being the
of sweet and savoury flavours, its many offerings is Roku Gin, top note. Thus giving Roku Gin
bearing notes of blood oranges and which incorporates six Japanese its complex, multi-layered, yet
red berries with sweet wood spice, a botanicals into the mix. This results harmonious flavour.
touch of smoked meat, and a hint of
salt and pepper with a long, sweet,
fruity finish.

GLENFIDDICH
Finished in rare Japanese ex-
Awamori casks, the Grand Yozakura
is Glenfiddich’s latest addition to
its luxurious Grand Series. The
limited-edition 29 year old whisky is
matured at the Glenfiddich distillery
in Dufftown, then finished in oak
casks that previously matured the
oldest alcoholic spirit in Japan,
known as Awamori—a distilled
liquor made from long grain indica
rice. Meanwhile, the term ‘Yozakura’
refers to the sight of cherry blossom
trees at night. Tasting notes for
the whisky suggest a surge of ripe
fruits and caramelised onions on the
nose, followed by an indulgent layer
of toasted oak and creamy vanilla
mingling with spice and sherbet,
before an oaky finish.

ROKU GIN
One can’t talk about Asian spirits
without mentioning the House of
Suntory. Hailing from Japan itself,
the distillery crafts world-class
A SHORT HISTORY HOW WE DO IT for the Best of the Year Awards.
The Tatler Dining guide was first This year, the Tatler Dining guide Experiences from our panel
published in 1993 and has been has taken on a whole new format, contributed towards the content of
revered by generations of gourmands including more restaurants and more the restaurants listed in the guide
since. Tatler Dining is committed to input from our panellists. Rather resulting in expanding the breadth
providing an unranked round up of than sending individual reviewers and diversity of establishments
recommended dining experiences. to restaurants for physical reviews, featured. More importantly, it has
From ritzy kaiseki to no-frills our panel of industry leaders and allowed us to expand our scope
bistronomy, we believe that fine tastemakers were responsible for to cover many new countries
dining and casual eats must coexist, nominating and voting to help us across the region as we introduce
and we are delighted to continue arrive at this year’s Best Restaurants Tatler Best Restaurants Asia,
our annual tradition of identifying list, a collection of the year’s most our definitive list of the 100 top
and celebrating Malaysia’s premier interesting, impactful, and inspiring restaurants to visit, and the movers
chefs and restaurateurs who pave restaurants. The same panel also and shakers making a difference
the region’s culinary landscape. helped us determine the awardees in dining culture writ large.

IMAGE SKILLET
THE TATLER DINING PANELLISTS
Tatler Dining Malaysia’s in-house team, including
Katelyn Tan and Jennifer Choo are joined by:

AJA NG ELLIOT LAU ONG NING GENG TIEN CHEW


Ng has seen multiple Lau is a cook, chef, and Ong is a chocolate maker, Chew is an independent
aspects of the F&B admirer of all things food. farmer, and a flavour fanatic food writer with over
industry, from being a chef who got his start by roasting a decade’s experience
on a private luxury yacht, to KENT CHUA cocoa beans in his home writing for several luxury
part of a café service crew, An auditor turned kitchen. lifestyle publications. A
and being on the opening multi-award winning B2B marketer by day, he
team for The Big Group and F&B entrepreneur, Chua REBEKAH YEOH currently contributes to the
Ben’s Independent Grocer. now oversees Rhombus Yeoh is a business growing local food scene
She has also created food Connexion’s 10 brands, professional who is an avid via his website, Chew On
content and written scripts which include Dancing traveller and dedicated This.
for Asian Food Network, Fish, Tap Room, The foodie who follows her
and managed events such Rabbit Hole, Suzie Wong, stomach more than her TOMMY OOI
as the Kita Food Festival. The Beer Factory and heart. She feels most like Ooi is an avid traveller who
Besides running a boutique Rama V, with 38 outlets and herself when she can is on a culinary journey
communications agency, counting across Asia. explore different cultures covering 48 countries to
she also contributes and expressions of love on date. Nothing will dampen
food and travel articles KOH YUNG SHEN a plate. the destination blogger’s
to regional lifestyle Winner of The Bar sense of adventure,
publications. Awards Bartender of the RENYI LIM especially when it comes to
Year Penang 2019 and the With a proclivity for eating food and drinks.
DARREN TEOH Giffard West Cup Asia well and often, while
Teoh is the chef of 2022, Koh is a self-taught incorporating as much TRISHA TOH
Dewakan and co-founder of bartender and owner of variety as possible, Lim–a Toh is an art director
the KITA Food Festival. Backdoor Bodega, one Malaysian journalist with and stylist. A versatile
of Penang’s pioneering 13 years of experience–is visual storyteller, she has
DATUK CHUA SAI MEN speakeasy cocktail bars. It always curious about her produced a portfolio with
Chua is a director of was the first ever Penang next meal. She is currently an eclectic range of styles
The One IFC Group of bar to be listed among 100 working up the courage for brands in, but not
restaurants, which is the of Asia’s best bars by Asia’s to cook cacio e pepe and limited to, the food and
operator of Sushi Taka, 50 Best Bars in 2022. searching for a whisky that beverage industry. Her love
Ushi, and Tenshin. He is will rival the magnificence of food and design informs
always on the hunt for good LOH YI JUN of her all-time favourite, the her creative approach and
food and plans every trip Loh is a food writer, recipe Lagavulin 16 Year Old. fuels a constant search
around this. developer, and content for the unexpected and
creator. A 50 Next alumni THERI BURHAN inspiring. When not on set,
DINESH RAO who cut his chops in Paris, Burhan is a food writer, Toh is usually found with
Dinesh has been in the New York, and Malaysia, F&B strategist, and the a glass of wine in one hand
F&B industry for the past he is obsessed with funky founder of Set the Tables, and her cat, Geisha, in the
11 years. He currently runs flavour experiments (even an independent food and other.
a home catering business when they don’t work) and drinks media platform
focusing primarily on easily geeks out over food that aims to inspire the HSIAO TUNGWEI
Nyonya kuihs and cakes. culture and stories. hospitality community in Live to eat and not eat to
He believes that our local Southeast Asia. When she’s live summarises Hsiao.
kuihs are truly an art form, NICHOLAS NG not on the hunt for the best When he travels, he always
which we should learn to Ng is a food and drink fried chicken, she enjoys books restaurants first,
appreciate and preserve. journalist and marketing rock climbing. then hotels, then only
consultant who writes for flights. Sushi and a bottle of
Gourmet Traveller and natural wine is his ultimate
regularly judges cocktail weakness.
competitions.

50 Disclaimer: Panellists were not able to cast votes for restaurants with an existing conflict of interest.
USING THE GUIDE
THE REVIEWS

ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Cuisine

Aposto ON THE PASS


Modern Italian fare with house-made pasta is the name of the game at Aposto, and it is a
game that the restaurant plays well. It is hard to go wrong with any of its pasta dishes, as
Summary of they are made in-house—each evening, the team meticulously handcrafts and cuts fresh
the restaurant pasta before service begins. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, always happy to help with Chef
recommendations, and the dining room is lively and energetic. The welcoming selection of feature
both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages means there is something for everyone. or an
interesting
fact

Driven by a devotion to
flavours and detail, chef
patron Chu Wei Sin uses fresh
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES and premium ingredients in his
cooking, infusing tradition with
Feel free to ask Aposto’s 1. Saba On Toast modern culinary techniques.
staff for wine pairing 2. Duck & Foie He believes that food is a
bridge to unite strangers,
suggestions as a selection is 3. Tiramisu transforming friends into
put together to complement lovers (of food!).
the restaurant’s starters,
main courses, and desserts.

RM200/Per Person
Yes No Yes

38, Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6010 282 4990
54 aposto.my Tue-Sun | 5:30pm-11pm

Opening
hours
Price per guest
Availability of vegetarian options

Availability of private rooms

Availability of alcohol

Contact details
51
THE REVIEWS

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

A Little Farm On The Hill IN THE KNOW


Established in 2016, A Little Farm On The Hill boasts gourmet farm-to-table cooking in
a natural setting. Staff are friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable, and the experience is
unpretentious. Dining at the farm provides a refreshingly informal contrast to the city’s
urban fine dining scene, focusing on high-quality, honest, farm-grown ingredients. While
the menu is seasonal, signature dishes include the 12 leaf and herb salad made of cultivated
and foraged leaves tossed in a light, piquant dressing, culminating in a delightful mix of
flavours and textures. The six-hour wood-smoked beef short ribs are smoked with rambutan
wood in the farm’s brick smoker and served with farm-made pickles and spicy salsa. If
available, finish the meal with the banana and coconut milk-soaked sponge cake, which is
soaked with three different kinds of milk, the perfect end to the farm-to-table feast.
The team is currently working
on an arts programme that
includes performances at the
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES farm and an artist residency
for musicians and filmmakers.
Take the time to tour 1. Six-hour wood-smoked
the farm after your beef short ribs
meal, as the breezy, 2. Twelve leaf and herb
beautiful surroundings salad
are hard to beat. 3. Banana and coconut
milk-soaked sponge cake

RM300-RM500/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Lot 161 Tanarimba Janda Baik, Persiaran Enderong, Bukit Tinggi, Bentong 28750, Pahang
Tel: +609 233 0194 Thurs-Sun
52 alittlefarmonthehill.com Lunch by reservation only
SRI LANKAN

Aliyaa ON THE PASS


Always reliable and true to its essence, Aliyaa always delivers when it comes to hearty Sri
Lankan cuisine. Dishes are beautifully presented and expertly executed, making use of
premium ingredients. Since the restaurant’s opening, food has remained consistent, and
staff are hospitable and well-trained. The Aliyaa Experience set is ideal for those new to the
restaurant and allows guests to try a range of signature dishes. Crab lovers will enjoy the
Jaffna-style crab curry, a classic Northern Sri Lankan dish with whole crabs in a fragrant and
flavourful curry.

Chef Sivaraja Suppaiya is


dedicated to preserving the
authenticity of Sri Lankan
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES flavours and is known for his
Jaffna Style Crab Curry.
The helpful team is 1. The Aliyaa Experience
always ready to guide 2. Jaffna Style Crab Curry
guests through selecting 3. Tiger Prawns Varuval
dishes and has expertise
in explaining details
that define each dish.

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

No 48 G&M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Mon-Sun | 12pm-3pm
Tel: +6017 883 3738 DINNER
aliyaa.com Mon-Sun | 6pm-11pm 53
THE REVIEWS

ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Aposto ON THE PASS


Modern Italian fare with house-made pasta is the name of the game at Aposto, and it is a
game that the restaurant plays well. It is hard to go wrong with any of its pasta dishes, as
they are made in-house—each evening, the team meticulously handcrafts and cuts fresh
pasta before service begins. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, always happy to help with
recommendations, and the dining room is lively and energetic. The welcoming selection of
both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages means there is something for everyone.

Driven by a devotion to
flavours and detail, chef
patron Chu Wei Sin uses fresh
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES and premium ingredients in his
cooking, infusing tradition with
Feel free to ask Aposto’s 1. Saba On Toast modern culinary techniques.
staff for wine pairing 2. Duck & Foie He believes that food is a
bridge to unite strangers,
suggestions as a selection is 3. Tiramisu transforming friends into
put together to complement lovers (of food!).
the restaurant’s starters,
main courses, and desserts.

RM200/Per Person
Yes No Yes

38, Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6010 282 4990
54 aposto.my Tue-Sun | 5:30pm-11pm
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

Asumo ON THE PASS


Asumo offers a modern, Tokyo-style rendition of charcoal-grilled Japanese Wagyu,
importing whole Wagyu cattle from the Miyazaki and Tokushima prefectures in Japan. Try
the Japanese Wagyu Yakiniku Omakase, a selection of the day’s best cuts presented in a
wooden boat, cooked at the table, and served with the restaurant’s signature sauces and salts.
A selection of Japanese beers, whiskies, sakes, and non-alcoholic beverages complements
the dishes.

The taste and texture of


Wagyu for yakiniku differ
based on the direction, type,
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES and thickness of the cut. With
over 10 years of experience,
Asumo has 40 private 1. Diamond Cut Thick chef Hiroki Eguchi can impart
rooms, accommodating Tongue his extensive knowledge and
skill at Asumo.
groups of various sizes. 2. Japanese Wagyu
Yakiniku Omakase
3. Fifteen Second Ribloin

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

49 & 51, Jalan SS 15/5a, SS15, 47500 Subang Jaya LUNCH


Mon-Sun | 11:30pm-3pm
Tel: +603 5611 5733 DINNER
asumomy.com Mon-Sun | 5pm-11pm 55
THE REVIEWS

MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

Beta KL ON THE PASS


Diners are taken on a captivating culinary journey through Malaysia with Beta KL’s
thoughtfully curated tasting menu with an engaging narrative. Chef Raymond Tham
showcases his personal style and creative ingenuity with an eclectic use of local flavours,
presenting a contemporary spin on Malaysian cuisine. Courses are both meticulously
crafted and create a lasting impression. Attentive and effective service remains a vital feature
of the experience here, and the team looks to ensure guests are engaged throughout.

Chef Raymond Tham has over


two decades of professional
experience in the industry and
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES cut his teeth in the kitchens
of private clubs and hotels
Pair the Tour of Malaysia 1. Childhood Weekend worldwide.
menu with the restaurant’s 2. Cornfed Chicken
selection of cocktails, which 3. Loyang Vol 4
feature local ingredients.

RM300-RM500/Per Person
Yes No Yes

Lot 163, 10, Jalan Perak, 50450 Kuala Lumpur


DINNER
Tel: +6019 212 1094 Tues-Thurs, Sun | 6pm-10pm
56 betakl.com Fri & Sat | 6pm-11pm
MEDITERRANEAN

Bocado ON THE PASS


Bocado showcases Latin and Spanish cuisine in a vibrant, elegant space inspired by
Santorini. Order a selection of tapas and mains to share, paired with Spanish wines, sangria,
or cocktails. Try the Arroz Negro, squid ink paella topped with octopus leg and burrata
mousse, as well as the 16-hour slow-cooked Spanish suckling lamb shoulder.

Head chef Juan López


Pérez developed his love for
Mediterranean cuisine while
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES growing up in Barcelona.

The restaurant’s 1. Croquetas


extensive Spanish wine 2. Arroz Negro
collection features 3. Paletillia De Cabrito
lesser-known bottles
from different regions
across Spain, providing
a unique experience.

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Ground Floor, Bangunan ECM Libra, 8, Jalan Damansara Endah,


Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6012 923 3206
bocadokl.com Mon-Sun | 12pm-12am 57
THE REVIEWS

ASIAN/CONTEMPORARY ASIAN

Bol ON THE PASS


Step into Bol and immerse yourself in the restaurant’s design, a beautiful, modern
interpretation of a traditional Peranakan house. The menu also mirrors the restaurant’s
interior, with familiar yet intriguing modern Asian creations with Nyonya influence. Pair a
meal here with a selection of cocktails that complement the experience.

Executive chef Kian Liew is


a London-trained interior
architect who left a 15-year
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES corporate career to pursue
his aspirations to open a
Book the airy glasshouse Seasonal degustation menu restaurant.
on the top floor, inspired by
Victorian conservatories,
for private dinners or
special occasions.

RM200-RM400/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

15, Jalan Sin Chew Kee, Bukit Bintang, 50150 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Sat-Sun | 12pm-3pm
Tel: +6010 283 8869 DINNER
58 instagram.com/bol_in_kl Tue-Sun | 6pm-10.30pm
GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

Brasa ON THE PASS


Brasa specialises in charcoal grilled delights, including steaks, vegetables, and seafood,
paired with exquisite wines. Begin with the starter of squid ink sago crackers topped
with cured salmon, followed by charred Wagyu bone marrow with onion marmalade and
sourdough. Don’t miss the Wagyu striploin, served with truffle mash and rocket salad.

Chef Diego Reali has over


twenty years of grilling
expertise and is committed to
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES upholding high standards at
Brasa.
With over 200 wine labels, 1. Crispy Sago
Brasa caters to all guest 2. Charred Wagyu Bone
preferences. Diners can also Marrow
purchase bottles to enjoy at 3. Wagyu Striploin
home, as the establishment
is also a wine retailer.

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

50-G, Plaza Damansara, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6011 5110 2857
brasakl.com Mon-Sun | 5.30pm-10.30pm 59
THE REVIEWS

GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

Chambers Grill ON THE PASS


Chambers Grill offers premium imported dry-aged meats in a custom-designed Himalayan
salt tile cabinet, resulting in tender, flavourful dishes. The restaurant is a meat-lovers
haven, serving dishes from Australian lamb to Wagyu beef. For a special occasion, order the
indulgent Wagyu Tomahawk MBS6 and the buttery pan-seared foie gras. Dishes here are
best paired with the diverse selection of wine, curated to pair with the rich cuts of meat.

Helming the restaurant and


ensuring every cut of meat is
prepared impeccably is chef
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES Steven Wong, who has been
with Chambers Grill since
Keep an eye out for 1. Wagyu Tomahawk MBS6 2014.
changing specials, which 2.Black Angus Rib Eye
allow guests to try the 3. Pan Sear Foie Gras
best seasonal produce.

RM300/Per Person
Yes No Yes

Hilton Kuala Lumpur, Lobby Level 3, 3, Jalan Stesen Sentral,


Kuala Lumpur Sentral, 50470 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 2264 2264 DINNER
60 eatdrinkhilton.com/chambers-grill Mon-Sun | 6:30pm-10:30pm
FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

Chateau Dionne ON THE PASS


Sit at Chateau Dionne’s counter and enjoy watching the team of chefs at work, plating
up contemporary French dishes. The menu changes seasonally but is rooted in French
techniques. The restaurant’s ambience is elegant yet cosy, and the service is smooth. A wine
pairing and a mocktail selection are available for those looking for non-alcoholic options.
Don’t leave without trying the soufflé, which is a favourite that guests return for.

Chef-patron Andy Choy


brings more than 15 years of
experience working overseas,
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES having returned to Malaysia to
bring his expertise in French
The restaurant keeps a tally 1. Cold Capellini cuisine home.
of how many soufflés they 2. Foie Gras
have served since opening, 3. Soufflé
and at the time of writing,
the number is 13,000.

RM400/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

24G, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Mon-Sun | 12pm-3pm
Tel: +6018 318 8199 DINNER
chateaudionne.com Mon-Sun | 6pm-11pm 61
THE REVIEWS

CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

Chynna ON THE PASS


Chynna is an easy choice for modern Cantonese and Shanghainese cuisine. The restaurant
is ideal for large parties, with private dining areas and set menus that can be tailored to
each group’s preferences. While Chynna is known for Chinese classics, ask your server for
specials highlighting the season’s best flavours. A selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic
beverages is available, and the assortment of teas is also recommended.

Prior to helming Chynna,


chef Lam Hock Hin worked
overseas in Singapore and
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES Beijing.

For the full experience, 1. Buttermilk Prawns


indulge in the curated set 2. Smoked Australian
menu which showcases Wagyu Roll
the best of what 3. Braised Cauliflower Soup
Chynna has to offer.

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Hilton Kuala Lumpur, Level 5, 3, Jalan Stesen Sentral, Kuala Lumpur Sentral, LUNCH
50470 Kuala Lumpur Mon-Fri | 12pm-2:30pm
Sat & Sun | 11am-2:30pm
Tel: +603 2264 2264 DINNER
62 eatdrinkhilton.com/chynna Mon-Sun | 6:30pm-10:30pm
FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

Fritz IN THE KNOW


The all-new Fritz opened in October 2023, offering classic French cuisine with global
influences in a relaxing setting. The team makes nearly everything from scratch, from
cultured butter and homemade bread to sausages and cured meats. Enjoy table service from
the experienced team, who carve items such as the beef Wellington and duck tableside, and
serve the cheese selection on a cheese trolley imported from Milan. Dishes are best paired
with a selection of extensive wines and cocktails. Bird’s-eye views of the city centre complete
the Fritz experience.

The restaurant features a


stunning pewter bar top from
Royal Selangor.
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES
On the last Sunday of 1.Hokkaido Scallops
every month, Fritz hosts 2.Rainbow Trout
an enjoyable Sunday lunch 3. Steak Flambé au Poivre Vert
ideal for leisurely dining
with friends and family.

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Troika Sky Dining, Level 23a, Tower B, The Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC,
50450 Kuala Lumpur
Mon-Sun | 6pm-12am
Tel: +603 2162 0886 Last Sunday of the month |
fritzdining.com 12pm-3pm, 6pm-12am 63
THE REVIEWS

GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

Firewood Restaurant Penang ON THE PASS


Housed in a historic building within George Town’s Unesco area, Firewood Restaurant
Penang has an open kitchen concept and is focused on grilling, with more than half of its
menu cooked on charcoal embers. Try the aged duck breast with charred grapes and the
beef Wellington paired with a foie gras sauce.

Head chef and owner Ker


Yang Hao lived in Singapore
for seven years before
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES returning to Malaysia during
the pandemic. He started his
The restaurant highly 1. Japan A5 Miyazaki own online cake shop before
recommends the Wagyu Sirloin opening Firewood Restaurant
Penang in 2022.
dry-aged steaks. 2. Firewood Aged Duck
Breast
3. Firewood Beef
Wellington

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Tue-Sun
15, Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling, 10200 George Town LUNCH
12pm-2:30pm
Tel: +6017 989 9246 DINNER
64 instagram.com/firewood_penang 5:30pm-10pm
From top: Firewood
Restaurant Penang
prides itself on being the
first open-flame dining
restaurant in Malaysia;
the menu features a
focused selection of
steaks, comfort foods,
and speciality dishes;
Ker Yang Hao started
Firewood with a desire to
connect people through
food and flame

Like a Moth
to a Flame
Firewood Restaurant Penang’s open flame dining concept
gives proteins the treatment it deserves
Fire or heat is crucial to cooking, starters get the flame-kissed
yet its importance often gets treatment, such as Charcoal Burnt
overlooked by both the cook and Caesar, Miso Eggplant, Charred
the customer. Firewood in Penang, Cabbage with Garlic Shrimp, and
which prides itself on being the Charred White Corn. Stored in its
first open-flame dining restaurant dry-aged chiller to enhance each
in Malaysia, seeks to dispel this by cut’s natural flavour, Firewood
positioning the open flame as its offers premium Wagyu tomahawk,
central focus. Sher Wagyu prime rib, and bone-in
Firewood uses a mix of bakau sirloin. The Firewood Risotto and
wood and metals to create a the Homemade 6oz Wagyu Burger
semi-industrial dining space that are also hits.
offers approachability and comfort. Restaurant regulars, however,
The restaurant is headed by Ker visit the restaurant for either one
Yang Hao, who earned his stripes of its signature dishes–Miyazaki
cooking in Singapore for respected Wagyu Sirloin, Aged Duck Breast
establishments like St Regis and and Beef Wellington. Firewood
Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street imports its Japanese wagyu every
Kitchen in Marina Bay Sands week, cooking it on charcoal embers
before returning to Malaysia. He to ensure a perfect crust on the
started Firewood with a desire outside and an incredibly soft and
to enrich the open-fire dining juicy texture once you dig in. Using
experience and connect people local duck from Ipoh, the restaurant
WORDS TIEN CHEW

through food and flame. marinates and ages its duck for kitchen serves its duck with charred
The menu features a focused seven days to create a flavourful grapes to provide a little sweetness
selection of steaks, comfort foods, duck breast and ensure a crisp duck and acidity to balance the duck’s oily
and speciality dishes. Even salad skin every time it’s served. The mouth feel. 65
THE REVIEWS

INDIAN

Frangipaani IN THE KNOW


With a team hailing from different regions of India, it is no wonder that Frangipaani is
home to a wealth of traditional recipes. The menu is designed to offer a range of tastes and
experiences, from mild to spicy vegetarian and meat dishes. Also available is a range of
alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages to pair with the meal.

The restaurant offers a variety


of plant-based and vegetarian
menu items to reduce the
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES environmental impact of meat
production.
Don’t hesitate to ask 1. Lamb Rack
the friendly staff for 2. Prawn Balchao
recommendations or 3. Crab Meat Xec-Xec
dish descriptions, as
there is something for
everyone on the menu.

RM100/Per Person
Yes No Yes

The Republik, Lot No.M.03, Mezzanine Floor, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Mon-Sun
Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
11:30am-3pm
Tel: +603 2011 0030 DINNER
66 instagram.com/frangipaani.kl 6pm-11pm
An Oasis of Flavours
Frangipaani’s greatest strength is its diverse offering
of beloved dishes throughout India

Two sides that appear


on each table are the crab
rasam and cucumber
mint raita. The former is
popular thanks to a rich
broth of flower crab, curry
leaves, and homemade
rasam powder that’s big
on flavour, and the latter
actively works to cool the
palate.
Order any grills from
the clay oven, and you’ll
be privy to experiencing
Frangipaani’s mastery of

M
any dine at Frangipaani in From top: Kerala the tandoor. Tandoori Chicken is a
Meen Polli Chathu;
search of flavours unique Fish Cutlets; Taco classic for a reason, but that does not
to Indian cooking and mean that one shouldn’t discount
discover a new reason to the Lamb Rack that’s been seasoned
return after each visit. The secret? with yoghurt, Kashmiri chillies,
The restaurant has amassed a team and spices.
from several regions across India, However, it isn’t all seafood,
bringing with them a breadth of game, and poultry, for the restaurant
culinary know-how and nuances of takes pride in its commitment to
traditional and speciality dishes. sustainability by offering a variety of
The restaurant proudly embraces vegetarian menu items. The Grilled
the age-old aesthetics of the British Vegetable Platter, served piping hot
colonial era, featuring a fusion of off the tandoor oven, is also quite
classic British elements such as popular, going perfectly alongside
mahogany and brass with natural, Daal Khichdi, a fragrant lentil and
tropical touches like potted palm basmati rice, or a breadbasket with
trees. all the best hits.
At its core, Frangipaani is Another popular combo pairs
deeply committed preserving Frangipaani’s Crab Xec Xec, a
the authenticity of its traditional reddish curry featuring crab
recipes and cooking techniques but meat, coconut, coriander, and red
isn’t afraid to interpret them into chillies, with Jeera Saffron Rice
contemporary Indian fare. Dishes flavoured with cumin seeds. The
are designed to be shared; northern rice’s aroma and perfectly cooked
WORDS TIEN CHEW

classics like Butter Chicken are grains complement the crab’s more
fine-tuned to complement the robust flavours and acts as the ideal
flavours of the south with dishes carbohydrate to soak up all that
like Prawn Moilee. delicious curry. 67
THE REVIEWS

LATIN AMERICAN

Fuego ON THE PASS


Fun, colourful, and relaxed, Fuego is known for South American fare with a great view.
Ingredients are fresh and uncomplicated, resulting in exciting and flavourful tapas and a
good selection of charcoal-grilled meats and vegetables. The selection of guacamole is hard
to beat, and the menu is perfect for sharing, with plenty to choose from and something for
everyone. Cocktails should definitely be ordered to complement the meal, as should dessert.

Chef de cuisine Gan Jie Hen


grew up in Klang and has
always been passionate about
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES cooking.

The restaurant also caters 1. Fuego Ceviche


to plant-based diners with 2. Grilled Watermelon
vegan-friendly options. 3. Seafood Moqueca

RM200/Per Person
Yes No Yes

Level 23A Tower B, The Troika, 19, Persiaran KLCC, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 2162 0886 Mon-Sun
68 troikaskydining.com 6pm-11.30pm
GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

Horizon Grill ON THE PASS


There are few views of the city skyline better than that from Horizon Grill, located on the
58th floor of Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur. The restaurant is known for fresh seafood and
premium steaks, from marbled Miyazaki Wagyu served with creamy potato and black truffle
to buttery hamachi torched and served with papaya and mango.

Chef Francesco Fedrighi


uses European recipes and
techniques with a touch of
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES Asian influence in the food he
presents.
Arrive before 7pm to enjoy 1. Miyazaki Wagyu Tenderloin
the beautiful sunset view. 2. Bone Marrow
3. Hamachi

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Level 58, Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur, No. 2, Jalan Conlay, 50450 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Mon-Sun | 12pm-2.30pm
Tel: +603 2113 1821 DINNER
banyantree.com/malaysia/kuala-lumpur/dining /horizon-grill Mon-Sun | 6pm-10pm 69
THE REVIEWS

BRITISH

Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill IN THE KNOW


For standout British fare that always impresses, Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill is an easy
choice. The restaurant is ideal for a special occasion and consistently delivers stellar service,
well-executed steaks, and a stunning interior. Don’t miss the classic beef Wellington, which
is served tableside.

The private dining room offers


front row seats to kitchen
theatrics.
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES
On Sundays, the restaurant 1. Beef Wellington
serves a traditional 2. Sunday Roast
British Sunday Roast 3. Arnold Bennett
with all the trimmings. Twice-baked Soufflé

RM300/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Lobby Level, Sunway Resort Hotel, Persiaran Lagoon, Bandar Sunway,


47500 Petaling Jaya
Tel: +603 7492 8000
70 sunwayhotels.com/sunway-resort/dining /gordon-ramsay-bar-and-grill Mon-Sun, 11am-11pm
Classic British Fare
Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill boasts fine food, beautiful
interiors, and luxurious private spaces

Clockwise from top:


Gordon Ramsay with
the Gordon Ramsay
Bar & Grill team; beef
Wellington; dessert at
the establishment should
not be missed

With showstopping dishes, a traditional British Sunday drinks inspired by local culture
Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill Roast with Yorkshire puddings, to premium wines and spirits.
gives diners an unforgettable crispy roast potatoes, and fresh The 360-degree glass wine cellar
experience that showcases British vegetables. Other notable dishes has a global wine list, ideal to pair
heritage. Set within Sunway to savour include the Spiced Beef with any meal. Joining the other
Resort Hotel, the lavish interior Tartare with Egg Yolk Confit. locations of the establishment, the
has polished brass finishes, floor- Sip on cocktails at the bar and restaurant undoubtedly lives up to
to-ceiling windows, and grand choose from classic favourites and the grandeur of the group.
chandeliers. Three private rooms,
named after some of London’s
most prestigious addresses, are
suitable for celebrations and
functions.
Executive chef Giles Langford
leads a young but talented
Malaysian culinary team.
Langford, trained by Gordon
Ramsay himself, presents
dishes without fault, such as the
signature Beef Wellington, which
comes wrapped in puff pastry
and served tableside to diners.
Indulgent and decadent, the
Arnold Bennett Twice-Baked
Soufflé is a delicate soufflé
WORDS KATELYN TAN

with smoked haddock and aged


cheddar sauce that celebrates
British writer Arnold Bennett.
Visit on Sundays and enjoy
THE REVIEWS

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

Ignis KL IN THE KNOW


Ignis means fire in Latin, and the restaurant stays true to its name with well-executed plates
touched with a lick of the flame. For grill-focused dining, Ignis KL is one of the best in town,
as the team manages to achieve char and smoke in each dish, made with quality produce
often sourced from Malaysian farms. The space is comfortable yet elegant, without pretence,
and dishes are best paired with some of the restaurant’s handcrafted cocktails. Don’t leave
without trying the smores, which are outstanding.

The restaurant hosts At the


Table, a six-course changing
tasting menu, once a month.
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES Each course focuses on
a single ingredient and
Sit by the chef ’s counter to 1. Slipper Lobster, pucuk amplifies exceptional produce
watch the action unfold. manis, laksa sauce to its best.
2. Sweet corn, shio kombu,
citrus sauce
3. Smores

RM200/Per Person
Yes No Yes

G-02A, Ground Level, The Sphere, No. 1, Avenue 1, Bangsar South City,
8, Jalan Kerinchi, 59200 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Mon-Sun | 11:30am-3pm
Tel: +6012 343 9566 DINNER
72 igniskl.com Mon-Sun | 6pm-10pm
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

Jade Pavilion ON THE PASS


Jade Pavilion showcases the best of Cantonese cooking and dim sum specialities. With
private dining rooms that seat up to 20 diners, the restaurant is ideal for intimate gatherings
with friends and family. Made with premium ingredients, dishes here are refined, from the
traditional Beijing duck to the wok-fried beef tenderloin served with assorted mushrooms.

Chinese masterchef Kenny


Lee believes in preserving the
natural flavours of ingredients.
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES
Don’t hesitate to ask the 1. Traditional Beijing duck
restaurant’s friendly staff 2. Slow braised South
for recommendations. Africa abalone wrapped in
butter puff
3. Wok fried cubed beef
tenderloin

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Level 8, Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur Managed by Banyan Tree,


170, Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Mon-Sun | 12pm-2:30pm
Tel: +603 2117 2823 DINNER
banyantree.com/malaysia/pavilion-hotel/dining /jade-pavilion Mon-Sun | 6pm-10pm 73
THE REVIEWS

FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

Jeff’s Cellar ON THE PASS


Located within a 260 million-year-old cave, Jeff ’s Cellar is easily one of the most beautiful
restaurants in Malaysia. The stunning dining space and well-executed dishes make the
experience impressive and memorable. Don’t miss the selection of wines, which are also
exceptional.

Ipoh native chef Lee Choon


Boon has been head chef
at The Banjaran Hotsprings
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES Retreat since 2016.

Ask for a tour of the Degustation menu


restaurant’s impressive
wine cellar.

RM700/Per Person
Yes No Yes

1, Persiaran Lagoon, Sunway 3, Sunway City, 31150 Ipoh


+605 210 7777
74 thebanjaran.com DINNER Mon-Sun | 6pm-11pm
Clockwise from top: The
interior of Jeff’s Cellar;
chef Lee Choon Boon; the
restaurant is housed within
a 260 million-year-old
limestone cave

Stunning Surroundings
Explore chef Lee Choon Boon’s innovative offerings
at The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat

N
estled within an enchanting
260 million-year-old
limestone cave is one
of Ipoh’s finest dining
establishments, Jeff ’s Cellar.
Housed within The Banjaran
Hotsprings Retreat, the award-
winning fine dining cave restaurant
and bar is a natural wonder.
Stalactites looming dramatically
from above replace chandeliers
while rippling water features weave
along the footpath approaching the
dining room.

Ipoh native chef Lee Choon which offers handcrafted drinks


Boon has over 15 years of culinary infused with wild and sustainable
experience and masterfully brings ingredients, from Ipoh pomelos
guests on a sensory journey that and Penang nutmeg to turmeric
features fresh flavours and unique and ginger. Constantly innovating,
WORDS KATELYN TAN

culinary combinations. The Jeff ’s Cellar is looking forward to


immersive experience is like no other presenting a new Malaysian fusion
and should be savoured. Visit Jeff ’s and French-inspired 10-course
Cellar Bar after a delightful meal, degustation menu in 2024. 75
THE REVIEWS

INDIAN

Kayra IN THE KNOW


For punchy and delicious sharing plates, visit South Indian restaurant Kayra, which is
loved for its innovative and honest approach to authentic Kerala cuisine. The eatery boasts
consistent food and friendly service in a casual, fun atmosphere. Its colourful dishes
are some of the most vibrant in town, visually and in terms of taste. A must-order is the
signature Fish Moilee Biryani, a decadent masterpiece that features a grilled whole sea
bass or snapper on a bed of basmati rice.

You may remember that Kayra


was the cover of the Tatler
Dining Guide 2023.
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES
For the full experience, 1. Pineapple Pachidi Tart
order the dishes to share 2. Crab Chamandhi Pera
and embrace the communal 3. Curd Sago with Prawn
dining spirit reminiscent of Pickle
typical mealtimes in Kerala.

RM100/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

F-8, Bangsar Village 1, Jalan Telawi 1, Bangsar Baru, 59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6017 215 7382 Mon-Sun
76 kayra.com.my 11:30am-10pm
Bold and Beautiful
Experience delicious modern Keralan dishes in the bustling
Bangsar neighbourhood at Kayra

K
uala Lumpur is blessed with
numerous South Indian
restaurants, but few marries
culinary authenticity and
contemporary touches with such
aplomb as Kayra.
Located on the first floor
of Bangsar Village 1, Kayra’s
thoughtfully designed space extends
from its indoor seating, which
cleverly uses wood furnishings and
potted plants, to an al fresco dining
area overlooking the busy Telawi
streets.
To foster a communal dining
culture, the restaurant designs
its menus around sharing plates.
A fan favourite is the Fish Moilee
Biryani, which combines two
classic South Indian creations into
one delectable dish. The biryani
From top: Sal Sabeel
can feed up to three and features and Meriam Sophia
a whole seabass marinated with a Alfonso; Avocado
Chaat; Mysore Maami
blended shallot masala base and
grilled to perfection before being
topped with a rich coconut milk
turmeric sauce and served on a bed option for those who may not be
of aromatic basmati rice. able to tolerate the heat of chillies so
Other modern takes on well. For a heartier main, opt for the
traditional Keralan food include the Mutton Stew based on the founder’s
Pineapple Pachidi Tart, a vegetarian mum’s signature recipe or the
appetiser that uses pineapple, Vartharacha Duck Curry, a mainstay
mustard and curd to whet one’s of Keralan cooking featuring duck
palate. There’s also the palatable cooked in a roasted coconut gravy.
Dosa Tacos, a Mexican-inspired, Complete your dining experience
Indian-flavoured creation filled with with a selection of sweet treats from
tomatoes, capsicum, potato masala, the restaurant’s extensive dessert
and homemade curd dressing that menu, which impressively ranges
can be enjoyed as is or with chicken. from plated desserts and cakes
Mains span the gamut from to modern classics, tarts and ice
seafood, meats, poultry and cream. A popular pick is the Mysore
vegetables. Kayra’s okra and mango Maami, which uses almond, white
WORDS TIEN CHEW

curry, which skilfully balances chocolate, coconut and mysore pak


okra simmered in turmeric and (an Indian sweet prepared in ghee)
coconut milk with the sweetness and a buckwheat base to create a
of ripened mangoes, is a fantastic bold yet refreshing dessert. 77
THE REVIEWS

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

Kyomo IN THE KNOW


Open since 2015, Kyomo is known for modern Tokyo-style Japanese Wagyu yakiniku cuts
cooked over coals. Food is consistent, high-quality, and good value for money. Side dishes,
such as stews and salads, also complement the beef well. An extensive collection of non-
alcoholic beverages and Japanese sake, beers, and cocktails, are also available. Order the
Japanese Wagyu yakiniku omakase, featuring a variety of modern and traditional cuts, ideal
for sharing with friends and family.

In 2021, in response to the


pandemic, the restaurant was
renovated to include more
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES private rooms, providing safer
spaces to dine in.
The restaurant also offers 1. Japanese Wagyu Yakiniku
free valet service. Omakase
2. Signature Kyomo Tongue
3. Kale Salad

RM150/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

26, Jalan 24/70a, Desa Sri Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur


Tel: +603 2856 7350 Mon-Fri | 5pm-11pm
78 kyomomy.com Sat-Sun | 12pm-11pm
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

Lai Po Heen ON THE PASS


Located in the heart of the city, Lai Po Heen boasts classic Cantonese cuisine, from
traditional fare to assorted handmade dim sum. While it may be known for savoury dishes,
not to be missed is the signature dessert, durian pancakes. Fresh musang king flesh forms
the filling, which is wrapped in a soft crêpe and topped with whipped cream.

Hailing from Ipoh, chef


Michael Wong is a master of
Chinese cuisine, having learnt
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES from some of the best chefs
in Hong Kong, Guangzhou and
The restaurant’s interior 1. Wok-fried cubed Shenzhen.
is inspired by the great tenderloin
ancestral homes of 19th 2. Steamed shrimps siew
century Chinese tycoons. mai with fish roe
3. Durian pancakes

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, LUNCH


50088 Kuala Lumpur Mon-Fri | 12pm-2.30pm,
Sat-Sun | 10.30am-2.30pm
Tel: +603 2380 8888 DINNER
mandarinoriental.com/en/kuala-lumpur/petronas-towers/dine/lai-po-heen Mon-Sun | 6pm-10.30pm 79
THE REVIEWS

CONTINENTAL/INTERNATIONAL

Luca IN THE KNOW


Step inside Luca and be transported to a world where two distinct cultures come
together in harmony. Luca is a culinary treasure blending Indian and European
cuisine. The restaurant itself is a reflection of this unique marriage, with its decor
seamlessly combining elements from both cultures. From the vibrant colours to the
tantalising aromas, Luca is a feast for all senses.

Luca maintains close


relationships with local
farmers and suppliers
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES to source the freshest
ingredients available. This
A warm and inviting 1. Crab Bisque ensures that the dishes
atmosphere welcomes 2. Luca’s Butter Chicken not only taste good but
also adhere to sustainable
guests, creating the perfect 3. Crêpes Suzette practices.
setting for any occasion.

RM200/Per Person
Yes No No outside bottles allowed

Lot G9, Ground Floor, Bangsar Shopping Centre, 285, Jalan Maarof, 59000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 2011 1399 Mon-Sun
80 instagram.com/luca.bsckl 11:30am-11:30pm
A Passionate
Duet Luca at Bangsar Shopping
Centre dances a fine line
between Indian and European
cuisines to sweet success

It takes a thorough mastery of restaurant does its best to work


Indian cuisine to know which levers with local farmers and suppliers
to pull and what buttons to press who share the same sustainable
when using it as a base to mix in practices.
influences from other cuisines and For the most authentic dining
create something new. Such is the experience at Luca, the restaurant
premise at Luca, a restaurant that team recommends diners savour
fuses elements from Indian and their signature dishes that blend
European cuisine to create new Indian and European flavours on
dishes brimming with character. the plate. Get the Papad Chutney
Fazil Shahreen, Luca’s head Basket for an addictive combination
chef, pulls this off by harnessing of three papadum varieties with
years of working as a chef around mango murabba and mint chutney.
Malaysia and assembling a team Crab Bisque is another signature, a
of chefs with expertise in both robust soup that infuses an already arugula, pickled mustard seeds, and
cuisines. Chef Fazil’s passion lies in flavourful crab broth with chunks of wine jelly on one hand and spiced
creating a dining experience that tiger prawns, crab meat and roe for a minced lamb cutlets served with
can harmonise the diverse culinary decadent and warming appetiser. mint chutney on the other. Seafood
traditions of two cuisines to craft Gourmets may be surprised lovers should choose the smoked
inventive dishes that capture the to hear that Luca’s Pâté goes octopus leg served with smoked
essence of both worlds. So strong is surprisingly well with spiced meats, beetroot hummus, spicy pimiento
Chef Fazil and his team’s dedication rotis and chutneys. It’s a fascinating chutney and sago crackers.
to ensuring its customers taste flavour mash-up–pate made with Surprisingly, European comfort
only the freshest flavours that the chicken liver mousse, truffle onion, foods like pizzas and pastas go so
well alongside Indian comfort foods
like curry and biryani. Have a glass
of wine and share a margherita
pizza with the table, or swap out the
pizza for Chicken Chettinad and
Tandoori Roti for a heartier sharing
plate. The flavour combinations
diners can create at Luca is its main
draw. Where else can one enjoy a
rich beef rib ragu pasta alongside
Luca’s Butter Chicken, a signature
dish of charcoal chicken tikka and
burrata in makhani sauce?
If you’re feeling cheeky, order
Luca’s Crêpe Suzette, which flambés
Malaysian crêpes in a spiked
concoction of Timah whisky, orange
WORDS TIEN CHEW

butter, caramelised sugar, and


vanilla ice cream. It’s the perfect
nightcap-cum-dessert to bookend a
Clockwise from top right: Duck; Crêpes Suzette; Jharkand Aubergine flavourful meal at the restaurant. 81
THE REVIEWS

GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

Mandarin Grill IN THE KNOW


Mandarin Grill is a prestigious dining destination, known for its exquisite selection of steaks
and prime cuts of meat. With a breathtaking view of the adjacent park, it offers a luxurious
dining experience that will surely impress. Indulge in its renowned Devesa Argentinian Beef
Wellington, wrapped in flaky pastry and finished with a rich and savoury mushroom porcini
sauce. For an even more lavish option, try the Australian Beef Tomahawk, expertly cooked
and served with all the trimmings.

Mandarin Grill is excited


to welcome a new chef de
cuisine in 2024.
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES
If you have any space left 1. Devesa Argentinian Beef
for a sweet treat, finish Wellington
off your meal with its 2. Australian Sher Wagyu
luxurious tiramisu. Black Label Tomahawk
3. Classic Tiramisu

RM350/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur City Centre,


50088 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Mon-Sun | 12pm-2pm
Tel: +603 2380 8888 DINNER
82 mandarinoriental.com/en/kuala-lumpur/petronas-towers/dine/mandarin-grill Mon-Sun | 6pm-10.30pm
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

Ming Ren Xuan IN THE KNOW


Ming Ren Xuan is renowned for its exquisitely crafted Cantonese dishes, but its dim sum
is equally impressive. For a truly indulgent dining experience, be sure to order the steamed
water prawn with Chinese rice wine, delicately wrapped in egg white and served with a
bed of tender noodles. And for meat lovers, the grilled Australian lamb rack is a must-try,
seasoned with bold flavours of spicy cumin and garlic that will leave your tastebuds dancing.

Sourced from Sarawak, the


restaurant’s Empurau fish
is loved for its buttery flesh,
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES paired with aged tangerine
peels, shredded ginger, and
For an intimate occasion, 1. Steamed Wild Empurau premium soy sauce.
book one of the restaurant’s Fish
beautiful private rooms. 2. Steamed Water Prawn
with Chinese Rice Wine in
Egg White
3. Grilled Australian Lamb
Rack with Spicy Cumin and
Garlic

RM100-RM300/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

LUNCH
L3-5, Level 3, Avenue K, 156, Jalan Ampang, 50450, Kuala Lumpur Mon-Fri | 11:30am-2pm
Sat-Sun | 10:30am-2pm
Tel: +6013 288 1199 DINNER
instagram.com/mingrenxuan Mon-Sun | 6pm-10pm 83
THE REVIEWS

INDIAN

Nadodi IN THE KNOW


With its innovative stance towards Indian fine dining, Nadodi is an important restaurant
within Malaysia’s culinary scene. The many minds and hands that go into the menu are
impressive, and every course is rich in narrative, balanced, and leaves a lasting impression.
Featured is also a wide selection of wines, spirits, and cocktails, the latter of which are
delicious interpretations of classic Indian flavours in liquid form.

Nadodi’s dishes take culinary


influence from Kerala, Tamil
Nadu, and Northern Sri
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES Lanka, honouring tradition
while showcasing modern
For the full experience, Degustation menu sophistication.
immerse yourself in
the cultural journey
presented through the
degustation menus.

RM800/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Level 7A, Four Seasons Hotel, Jalan Ampang, City Centre, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6017 296 9520 DINNER
84 nadodikl.com Mon-Sat | 6pm-10pm
ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Natalina Italian Kitchen ON THE PASS


Visit Natalina Italian Kitchen for modern Roman cuisine that is rich, flavourful, and
consistent. Ideal for special occasions, the setting is cosy and comfortable, and the restaurant
always delivers when it comes to Italian fare, from pasta and pizza to Josper-grilled meats
and steaks. Not to be missed are the cannelloni stuffed with mushroom and truffle, the
eggplant parmigiana, and the Black Angus tenderloin.

Head chef Stefano Maria La


Penna moved to Malaysia from
Monte Carlo, Monaco, but has
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES previously spent time in Italy,
France, and San Salvador
The restaurant regularly 1. Cannelloni ai Porcini e Island in the Bahamas.
features off-menu specials Tartufo
such as bone marrow 2. Eggplant Parmigiana
risotto and lobsters. 3. Filetto di Manzo

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Avenue K, Lot 06, Level 03, 156, Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6012 673 3860
natalinakl.com Mon-Sun | 12pm-10pm 85
THE REVIEWS

ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Nero Nero ON THE PASS


Influenced by the rich food culture and traditions of Southern Italy, specifically Puglia, Nero
Nero impresses with consistent food and attentive service. With the fountain centrepiece
and chequerboard flooring, the restaurant’s ambience is relaxing and elegant. Try the prawn
risotto, topped with calamari and prawns, or the homemade tortellini stuffed with slow-
cooked Wagyu beef cheeks.

Chef Diego Reali ensures all


the dishes at Nero Nero are an
authentic reflection of Italy’s
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES rich culinary heritage.

The beverage programme 1. Jumbo Prawn Risotto


is designed to pair well 2. Tortellini alla Guancia
with Italian dishes, from 3. Filletto di Manzo
wines to quintessential
Italian cocktails. Also
available are non-
alcoholic drinks inspired
by Italy’s café culture.

RM200-300/Per Person
Yes No Yes

L3-02, Jalan Damanlela, Damansara City Mall, Pusat Bandar Damansara,


50490 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6019 667 4546
86 neronerokl.com Mon-Sun | 12pm-10.30pm
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

Restaurant Kioku ON THE PASS


Restaurant Kioku serves innovative dishes rooted in French cuisine but modernised with
ingredients from around the globe, as well as founder Shawn Shum’s creativity. Elegantly
plated, courses are engaging and memorable, served from the open kitchen paired with
friendly and attentive service. Kioku means memory in Japan, as the team hopes to stimulate
the senses, creating an unforgettable experience.

Founder Shawn Shum is a


self-taught chef, as well as
the interior designer of the
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES restaurant. He spent 15 years
honing his skills in numerous
While the Pebbles menu is 1. Pebbles menu kitchens across Malaysia and
a fixed menu, the Meteorite 2. Meteorite menu Singapore.
menu requires a three
day advance booking
and allows the team to
showcase their creativity
in unexpected ways.

RM300-RM800/Per Person
No No Yes

1-21, Citrine Hab, Sunway Iskandar, 79250 Iskandar Puteri, Johor


Tel: +6011 5502 6828
restaurantkioku.com Wed-Sun | 6.30pm-10pm 87
THE REVIEWS

THAI

Nok Yung Thai Cuisine ON THE PASS


With a punch of bold flavours, Nok Yung Thai Cuisine never disappoints those searching
for an authentic dining experience. The dishes are vibrant and complex, enhanced by the
soothing tropical atmosphere created by surrounding plants, trees, and water features.
To top it off, the refreshing selection of beverages ranges from traditional Thai teas to
rejuvenating coconut water, perfect for enjoying while dining outside.

The culinary team is led by


chef Ponsit Inpang who comes
from Thailand and has over a
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES decade of culinary experience.

Take the time after 1. Tom Yum Seafood


your meal to explore 2. Steamed Red Snapper
the lush greenery of 3. Crispy Thai Pandan
Bamboo Hills, from the Chicken
surrounding waterfalls
to the nearby bridge.

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

P02-01, Bamboo Hills, Off Lebuhraya Duta-Ulu Kelang, Taman Bamboo,


51200 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6017 994 7686 LUNCH Mon-Sun, 12pm-3pm
88 nokyung.com.my DINNER Mon-Sun, 6pm-10pm
Taste of Thailand
Amidst Bamboo Hills’ tropical greenery, Nok Yung Thai Cuisine
offers authentic Thai fare
Nestled in the heart of Bamboo a generous squeeze of lime, the Clockwise from top
Hills is Nok Yung Thai Cuisine, warming soup is best served with left: A selection of
signature dishes;
known for delightful Thai dishes. fragrant rice. Datin Jean Liew; the
“The restaurant’s name translates The Crispy Thai Pandan breezy exterior
into peacock and combines elegance Chicken sees delicate parcels
with authentic Thai flavours,” of marinated boneless chicken
enthuses Datin Jean Liew, executive enveloped within fragrant pandan
director of The One Dining, the leaves, fried to perfection, and
group that runs Nok Yung. served with a dipping sauce.
From classic favourites to punchy Moving on to larger plates, the
regional specialities, all of the dishes Steamed Red Snapper is cooked
here are made with premium, fresh on a bed of aromatics before being
WORDS KATELYN TAN PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL ADAMS (DATIN JEAN LIEW)

ingredients. Led by Thai chef Ponsit finished with a tangy chilli and
Inpang, who brings with him over a lime sauce.
decade of culinary experience, the A meal here is incomplete
seasoned team whips up show- without desserts, of which the Red
stopping dishes that give diners a Ruby and Thai Mango Sticky Rice
true taste of Thailand. are popular amongst regulars.
“Must-try dishes include the Savour the dishes while sipping on
Tom Yum Seafood, Steamed Red refreshing beverages, including
Snapper, and the Crispy Thai Thai teas, coolers, and even natural
Pandan Chicken,” she lists. The coconut water.
aforementioned tom yum boasts “I hope to see Nok Yung thrive
an array of fresh seafood, including as a culinary destination within
large tiger prawns, aromatised Bamboo Hills, bringing the best
with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, of sophisticated Thai flavours to
galangal, and more. Finished with diners in Malaysia,” Liew ends.
THE REVIEWS

GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

Sea.Fire.Salt. IN THE KNOW


Nestled on the coastline, Anantara Desaru Coast’s signature grill, Sea.Fire.Salt. offers a
panoramic view of the sea. The tranquil ambience invites diners to unwind and savour
each bite. Its menu boasts an array of freshly caught seafood and succulent premium
meats, catering to every palate. Must-try dishes include the savoury tomahawk steaks,
overflowing seafood platter, and tender beef Wellington, all perfectly complemented by
a selection from their impressive wine cellar. The gentle breeze from the nearby ocean
enhances the experience with a touch of coastal charm.

Sea.Fire.Salt. has five types


of salt; each is used to flavour
different types of meat and
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES seafood.

Be sure to arrive early if 1. Seafood Platter


you want to enjoy some 2. Beef Wellington
cocktails and witness the
shifting colours of the
surrounding scenery.

RM300/Per Person
Yes No Yes

Anantara Desaru Coast Resort & Villas, 90, Desaru, 82200 Bandar Penawar, Johor
Tel: +607 828 0888
90 anantara.com/en/desaru-coast/restaurants/sea-fire-salt Mon-Sun | 12pm-10:30pm
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

Shang Palace ON THE PASS


Shang Palace is a favourite for authentic Cantonese cuisine in an elegant and comfortable
setting. A must-order is the Peking Duck, which is carved tableside, served with pancakes,
scallions, and hoisin sauce. Dim sum is well crafted, and the vast selection will spoil diners
for choice. Dishes are great for sharing with a group of friends or family.

Executive Chinese chef


Terence Foong brings with
him 38 years of culinary
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES experience, and believes in
the importance of sourcing
Order the Peking Duck, 1. Traditional Peking Duck the finest ingredients to craft
prepared using an ancient 2. Dim Sum authentic and creative dishes.
recipe and cooked 3. Shang Palace Classic
over jujube wood. Trio Combination Platter

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes
LUNCH
Mon-Sat | 11:30am-2:30pm
Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, 11, Jalan Sultan Ismail, 50250 Kuala Lumpur Sun & Public Holidays |
10:30am-2:30pm
Tel: +603 2032 2388 DINNER
shangri-la.com/kualalumpur/shangrila/dining /restaurants/shang-palace Mon-Sun | 6:30pm-10:30pm 91
THE REVIEWS

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

Skillet KL IN THE KNOW


Skillet KL is known for high-quality modern European food that incorporates seasonal
ingredients while remaining accessible in price. Signature dishes to look forward to include
the Aged Cherry Valley Duck which is dry-aged for five days, served alongside a beetroot
and red cabbage chutney. Trimmings from the duck are turned into duck floss to avoid
waste. The Texture of Chocolate dessert has been a signature from the start, and features a
chocolate sphere and cocoa soil.

Chef Raymond Tham aspires


for Malaysia to not only be
recognised for its street food,
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES but also the tremendous talent
present in restaurant kitchens.
For the full dining 1. Aged Cherry Valley Duck
experience, opt for the 2. Chicken Paupiette
Degustation Menu 3. Texture of Chocolate
with a wine pairing.

RM300-RM500/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Unit 1, Ground Floor, Cormar Suites, 10, Jalan Perak, 50450 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Thurs-Sun | 12pm-3pm
Tel: +6019 212 1240 DINNER
92 skilletkl.com Tue-Sun | 6pm-10pm
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

Studio Restaurant ON THE PASS


With timeless and matured cooking, there is no restaurant like Studio Restaurant in Kuala
Lumpur. Few can execute dishes as seasoned chef-owner Christian Recomio does, while
co-owner Jenifer Kuah runs the floor gracefully. The menu sees modern European fare
created with thought and ingenuity, showing that local gourmands need not travel far to
find delectable global cuisine. The restaurant’s small but intimate interior makes it ideal
for date night and small soirées, with a variety of course menus suited to how hungry one is
that night. However, the decadent bread course is a staple on the menu, with crème fraîche
parker house rolls served with cultured butter and a side of jus gras with crispy potatoes and
rosemary mascarpone. The team is also ready to provide pairing suggestions from a focused
selection of interesting wines.
Before moving to Kuala
Lumpur, chef-owner Christian
Recomio cooked in Oslo,
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES Copenhagen, and Barcelona,
and has owned and operated
While the restaurant Bread service Moonfish Cafe in Aberdeen for
may only officially 20 years.
open on Fridays and
Saturdays, it is available
for private bookings for
lunch and dinner during
the rest of the week.

RM300-RM700/Per Person
Yes No Yes

38-1, Jalan Kemuja, Bangsar, 59000 Kuala Lumpur


Tel: +6016 425 0773 DINNER
studiorestaurant.co Fri-Sat | 7pm till late 93
THE REVIEWS

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

Sushi Hara ON THE PASS


Indulge in an exceptional omakase dining experience at Sushi Hara, located in The Linc KL.
The menu rotates throughout the year, but one must-try dish is the Engawa Sushi, delicately
sliced and lightly seared for maximum flavour. Another standout option is the Ebi Uniyaki,
featuring plump grilled tiger prawns served with a decadent sea urchin roe sauce.

Executive chef Hiroyuki


Murakami comes from Japan
and brings with him 37 years
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES of industry experience.

Fresh fish is flown in from 1. Sashimi


Japan to the restaurant 2. Engawa Sushi
five times a week, 3. Ebi Uniyaki
ensuring every dish is
of the highest quality.

RM500/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Level 2 , 12 & 13, The Linc, 360, Jalan Tun Razak, 50400, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6017 821 5556 LUNCH Mon-Sun, 12pm-2.30pm
94 sushihara.com.my DINNER Mon-Sun, 6pm-10pm
Japanese Artistry
Expect a phenomenal omakase experience at Sushi Hara,
led by two experienced sushi masters

Anti- and craft phenomenal dishes. Only


clockwise
from top
the freshest, seasonal produce is
left: Hiroyuki sourced, air-flown from Japan five
Murakami; times a week, complemented by the
Hidekazu
Tanaka; restaurant’s range of premium sakes
each course and liquors.
from the
experience Guests are encouraged to
at Sushi Hara engage with the chefs, sharing
is exquisitely
crafted their preferences and allergies
or asking questions about dishes
served. Each experience is tailored
to guest-specific tastes, infused
with the talent and creativity of the
master sushi chefs. In every session,
attention to detail is immaculate; to
enhance the experience, dishes are
served on tableware imported from
Japan. The restaurant’s interior is
minimalist yet elegant, allowing
the dishes to take centre stage and
setting the tone for the culinary
journey ahead.

L
ocated within The Linc KL, belief that omakase is an art form,
Sushi Hara brings Japanese with guests entrusting the chefs
omakase to the heart of Kuala to handpick the finest ingredients
Lumpur, with an experience
that is left up to the restaurant’s
talented executive chefs. Veteran
sushi masters Hiroyuki Murakami
and Hidekazu Tanaka each bring
decades of experience with them.
With over 37 years of culinary
training under his belt, Tanaka
was born in Sendai City, Japan,
and proudly believes in constantly
learning and experimenting to
perfect his craft. Meanwhile,
hailing from the Miyagi Prefecture,
WORDS KATELYN TAN

Murakami has over 26 years of


industry experience and dreams of
spreading sushi culture globally.
The team at Sushi Hara carry the
THE REVIEWS

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

Sushi Shinjiru๗ ON THE PASS


Opened in 2022, Sushi Shinjiru๗ is a relatively new addition to the sushi scene in Kuala
Lumpur, but holds its ground with elegant interiors, an impressive sushi counter, and a
friendly team. While the menu changes seasonally, a signature dish is the Maguro Nigiri,
which features charcoal vinegar-infused rice. The Caviar Ice Cream is also an indulgent end
to a satisfying meal.

Executive chef Patrick Lim


comes from a line of chefs,
growing up within a family
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES that owned a restaurant in
Petaling Jaya.
With advanced booking, 1. Golden Otoro Sushi
the restaurant can also 2. Gindara Saikyo Yaki
prepare special menus that 3. Caviar Ice Cream
are vegetarian, fully cooked,
or suited to children.

RM300-RM1300/Per Person
Yes No Yes

21, Pusat Perdagangan Salak II Jalan 2/125, Taman Desa Petaling, Desa Petaling,
57100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6011 2307 4822 LUNCH Tue-Sun, 12pm-3pm
96 instagram.com/sushishinjiru DINNER Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm
Top
of Their
Craft
Sushi Shinjiru๗’s head
chef and sous chef shed
light on what it takes to
master the art of sushi

Greeting guests as they walk into Japanese fare. Lim cut his chops at season,” he explains. To Chan, the
Sushi Shinjiru๗are Patrick Lim, establishments such as Sushi Ori most rewarding part of his line of
executive chef of Dream Group and and Sushi Soul before joining the work is being able to help guests
head chef of the restaurant, and team at Sushi Shinjiru๗. understand the nuances of each
sous chef Chan Kok Chong. At just Chan, on the other hand, fell dish, deepening their appreciation
26 and 25 years of age, respectively, in love with the ever-changing for Japanese cuisine.
the young chefs have achieved more array of seasonal seafood that came “The path of a chef often means
than many at their stage. However, with the art of sushi. Starting with sacrificing work-life balance,
this does not come without sacrifice. little knowledge, he recalls the especially during festive seasons
“A sushi chef ’s journey is one practice and time it took to master when we’re crafting memorable
of relentless perseverance and fish preparation, knife skills, and experiences for others,” Lim says
passion,” smiles the amicable Lim, sushi crafting. “Being a sushi chef when asked about his challenges.
who comes from a family of cooks. requires a deep understanding
While Chinese food may have come of operational flow, timing for
naturally to him, he fell in love with preparing ingredients, and the
the intricate flavours that came with tasks that come with changes in

However, this is a sacrifice he is


willing to commit to: “Sushi is an
unwavering commitment to the
craft.”
Both chefs hope they are able
WORDS KATELYN TAN

Clockwise from top:


The restaurant’s luxurious to blend tradition with innovation,
interior; shavings of making use of the freshest
truffle; Executive chef
Patrick Lim; Sous chef ingredients paired with exceptional
Chan Kok Chong service. 97
THE REVIEWS

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

TBC ON THE PASS


Casual fine-dining restaurant TBC is known for contemporary European fare with
international influences. The open kitchen provides a warm and engaging environment,
and signature dishes include the Warm Uni Capellini which is mixed in a velvety abalone
sauce and topped with sea urchin and caviar. Try also the Textures of Cauliflower, which
has tempura cauliflower florets, pickled cauliflower slices, and a cauliflower velouté. End
a meal here with the simple yet decadent chocolate tart, which is finished with a scoop of
vanilla ice cream.

Head chef Patrick Lim worked


in restaurants in Sydney and
Brisbane before moving back
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES to Kuala Lumpur.

The restaurant is able to 1. Warm Uni Capellini


provide a special chef ’s set 2. Textures of Cauliflower
menu upon early request. 3. TBC’s Chocolate Tart

RM250/Per Person
Yes No Yes

125, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +6017 304 7851 DINNER
98 tbc.restaurant Tue-Sun | 6pm-10.30pm
SRI LANKAN

The Lankan Crabs IN THE KNOW


Since 2020, The Lankan Crabs has been known for Sri Lankan dishes with a focus on crabs.
While the restaurant stays true to authentic and traditional recipes, a touch of Malaysian
culinary influence is sometimes present to tailor to the local palate. Signature dishes, which
include the Negombo Crab Curry, Jaffna Crab Curry, and Black Pepper Crabs, are best
savoured and shared with a group. Pair the food with the restaurant’s selection of alcoholic
and non-alcoholic beverages, which include beers, teas, and other refreshing drinks.

The design of the restaurant


is influenced by the rustic
architectural styles of old
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES colonial buildings in Sri Lanka.

The restaurant’s friendly 1. Negombo Crab Curry


staff are more than happy 2. Jaffna Crab Curry
to assist when it comes to 3. Black Pepper Crabs
cracking crab shells and
peeling the crab meat.

RM100/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

4, Jalan Kemuja, Bangsar, 59000 Kuala Lumpur


Tel: +603 2201 0128 Sun-Thurs | 11am-10pm
thelankancrabs.menu Fri & Sat | 11am-12am 99
THE REVIEWS

CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

The Regent Chinese Cuisine IN THE KNOW


The standard of cooking at The Regent Chinese Cuisine is reliably excellent, making it the
ideal choice for lunch or dinner, where food needs to be infallible, be it a family reunion
or a business lunch. Ingredients are fresh, resulting in exquisite cooking, from nourishing
double-boiled soups and steamed live fish to braised noodles. The dining room is
comfortable, and the staff are always courteous.

The best way to end your


meal is with The Regent
Chinese Cuisine’s refreshing
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES and light desserts.

Staff are helpful, 1. Salt & Pepper Boston


particularly when reserving Lobster
a table in advance; the 2. Stir Fried Australia
experienced team is Angus Beef with Black
happy to recommend a Pepper
line-up of dishes or help 3. Wild River Prawn
tweak a menu to each Noodle
customer’s preference.

RM200/Per Person
Yes Yes No

Lot A-OG-01, Block A, No.2 Jalan Kiara Plaza, 50480 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Mon-Sun | 12pm- 2:30pm
Tel: +6011 2881 3888 DINNER
100 theregent.my Mon-Sun | 6pm-10:30 pm
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

Yen ON THE PASS


Cantonese restaurant Yen aims to redefine Chinese classics with innovative, fusion twists.
The four private rooms are suited to large parties and are ideal for intimate functions.
Like the rooms, the rest of the restaurant is also tastefully and elegantly decorated
with delicate antique elements. Don’t miss the Golden Duck which is Yen’s take on the
traditional Peking Duck.

Executive Chinese chef Tan


Kim Weng leads the team at
Yen and enjoys incorporating
TATLER TIP SIGNATURE DISHES ingredients such as
mushrooms, curry leaves, and
Try the Dim Sum 1. Yen Golden Duck seasonal vegetables into his
Brunch, which is 2. Soft Shell Crab Salad, dishes.
available on weekends. Ice Lettuce, Fish Skin,
Truffle Sauce
3. Cantonese Fried Sea
Prawn, Crispy Oats, Curry
Leaves

RM150/Per Person
Yes Yes Yes

Level 11, W Kuala Lumpur, 121, Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur LUNCH
Tue-Sun | 12pm-2.30pm
Tel: +6012 347 9088 DINNER
marriottbonvoyasia.com/restaurants-bars/w-kuala-lumpur-yen Tue-Sun | 6pm-10pm 101
THE REVIEWS

A
MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

AKAR DINING ALTA CAFE ALTA PIZZA


109, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, 59-1, Jalan Bangkung, Bangsar, 38, Jalan Kemuja, Bangsar,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 59100 Kuala Lumpur 59000 Kuala Lumpur
60000 Kuala Lumpur +6014 968 8949 +6010 260 3832
+6018 277 0597 altacafe.com altapizza.co
akardining.com
Alta Cafe is a go-to for creative, Hearty pizzas and a wide selection of
Akar Dining is a contemporary artisanal, and unfussy dishes in snacks and small plates make for an
Malaysian restaurant that an intimte setting that feels just easy choice for date night or casual
innovatively celebrates local right. In the evening, sharing plates dining with friends. Blue and white,
flavours, making use of indigenous are served, best paired with the the clean and inviting space sets
ingredients. Chef-owner Aidan restaurant’s reputable selection of the backdrop for impressive food
Low uses his expertise and wines. While the menu changes paired with warm service. A focused
creativity to present memorable seasonally, a crowd favourite is selection of refreshing cocktails and
dishes that bring out the best of the Alta Burger, which is perfectly a healthy wine list are also available
local and seasonal produce. The indulgent. for those inclined to pair their pizzas
team is passionate, hospitable and with a drink.
knowledgeable. With the quality
of execution, the seasonal menu is
GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD
good value for money, served in an
intimate and inviting space. ATELIER BINCHOTAN
28, Jalan 2/109E, Desa Business Park, 58100 Kuala Lumpur
+6017 788 9096
atelierbinchotan.com

Modern barbecue restaurant Atelier Binchotan is often considered the best


grill house in town. There is a strong clarity of concept with chef-owner Lau
KaHong imparting a signature smokiness and char on his dishes that is hard
to find anywhere else. The Foie Gras and Kaya Toast is a decadent dish that
features a generous amount of foie gras terrine shaved on brioche spread with
kaya. The simple, private setting allows there to be even more focus on the
food itself, which is executed precisely and completely deserving of attention.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

APOLLO DINING
28, Jalan Kemuja, Bangsar,
59000 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2201 7565
apollodining.com

Apollo Dining serves fusion dishes


in a contemporary space. Order the
signature dishes of seared scallops
with taro fritters, deep-fried
cempedak fritters stuffed with nian
gao, and laksa crab with squid ink
102 linguine.
B
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

BASIC WINE STORE


Lot 13A, Ground Floor, Arcoris, Mont Kiara, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/basicwinestore

For delectable European comfort fare paired with good wines in a relaxing
space, visit Basic Wine Store. While the focus is on a curation of artisanal
wines, these pours are best complemented with the ever-evolving menu
of thoughtfully constructed sharing plates. Daily specials might include
a tempting selection of pasta, meats, and cold cuts. Service is warm and
welcoming, and beverage recommendations are well-informed, with staff
able to offer genuine personal insights into the profiles of various wines.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

BACK ALLEY PASTA


8, Jalan 1/67b, Off Jalan Mengkudu,
55000 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2856 3065
instagram.com/backalleypasta

Inventive modern pasta and bold


flavour combinations in a casual
setting are always a winning recipe.
Back Alley Pasta has a focused
selection of dishes, wines, and beers,
which displays the restaurant’s
emphasis on quality. Dishes are
not constrained by tradition, and
highlights include the flank steak
and peppercorn pappardelle, served
in a red wine reduction sauce with
bacon and pearl onions. Also not
to be missed is the Kurobuta pork
collar with nori butter pasta and
the charred cauliflower florets with
pesto diavola.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

BLOOM BIJAN BAR & RESTAURANT BINCHOTAN JB


RG1 The Troika, Persiaran KLCC, 3, Jalan Ceylon, Bukit Ceylon, 15, Jalan Kuning 2, Taman Pelangi,
50450 Kuala Lumpur 50200 Kuala Lumpur 80400 Johor Bahru
+6019 817 0032 +603 2031 3575 +6012 588 1918
facebook.com/bloom.troika bijanrestaurant.com binchotanjb.com

Airy and bright, Bloom is the perfect For authentic, fine Malay cuisine, Visit Binchotan JB for a decadent
space to kick off the day. Its menu look no further than Bijan Bar & dining experience from start to
consists of both Asian and Western Restaurant. On the menu are local finish. Impeccable ingredients are
comfort food, from grilled chicken dishes such as Opor Rusuk, beef showcased throughout the meal,
with black pepper mushroom ribs slow-cooked in an aromatic through dishes such as the Foie Gras
sauce and linguine with tuna and gravy, and Sotong Hitam Manis, Pastella, Amadai Crispy Scales, and
artichoke hearts to a light and squid cooked with chilli paste and Sliced Beef Sukiyaki. Service is
creamy smoked duck carbonara. lemongrass. discrete yet attentive. 103
THE REVIEWS

B-C
FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

BREF BY DARREN CHIN CHIPTA 11A


26, Lorong Datuk Sulaiman 1, 11a, Jalan 20/16, Sea Park,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 46300 Petaling Jaya
60000 Kuala Lumpur +6011 2899 6296
+603 7731 5032 chipta11a.com
bref-kl.com
Chipta 11a takes Japanese
Bref by Darren Chin is the perfect fusion to the next level with an
restaurant for an intimate night out, unconventional, adventurous menu.
with its approachable yet exquisite The team’s expert knowledge of
dishes executed to a high standard. Japanese cuisine combined with
There is a good range of beautifully respect for local ingredients results
presented dishes to choose from, in an inspiring, creative experience.
from starters and pastas to larger Unexpected combinations of unique
mains. The Cold Capellini is a must- ingredients result in a culinary
order, topped with premium seafood adventure upon every visit, and
and coated in a creamy abalone since the menu is based around
dressing. Another favourite is the seasonal ingredients, dishes change
Wild Caught Kurau, dry aged for often, giving regulars a reason to
two days and served with soy-glazed revisit. Everything on the menu is
cabbage and a smoky mackerel fresh, prepared with loving attention
emulsion. to detail, and crafted to perfection.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION
There is also a respectable sake list
CAFE-BISTROT DAVID to pair with the experience. The
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION
135, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, team is warm, knowledgeable, and
CANVASS BISTRO & Taman Tun Dr Ismail, thoughtful, and explains ingredients
COCKTAIL BAR 60000 Kuala Lumpur and dishes without fault.
38, Jalan Bedara, Ground floor, +603 7732 0332
50200 Kuala Lumpur cafebistrotdavid.com
+6012 329 2820
canvasskl.com Consistency and high-quality
ingredients are key at Cafe-
Nordic-inspired restaurant Canvass Bistrot David, known for modern
Bistro & Cocktail Bar aims to take European dishes with an Asian
a sustainable approach to cuisine influence, served in a casual bistro
where possible, making use of bio- environment. Classic dishes, such
diverse ingredients. Try the braised as the handmade gourmet pies or
free-range Hereford beef cheek, The CBD Wagyu Burger, are always
Nordic pan-fried fish cakes, or the done right, and there is something
cured local snapper. for everyone. One is always assured
of a satisfying dining experience
paired with good food.

FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

CASSIS
1st Floor, 32A, Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 2, Taman Tun Dr Ismail,
60000 Kuala Lumpur
+6011 2437 8671
instagram.com/cassis_kl

Modern French restaurant Cassis serves a changing, seasonal degustation


menu in an elegant ambience. The atmosphere is the perfect setting for any
104 special occasion.
C-D
MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

CHOCHA FOODSTORE CILANTRO RESTAURANT &


156, Jalan Petaling, City Centre, WINE BAR
50000 Kuala Lumpur 368B, Jalan Tun Razak, Taman U
+603 2022 1100 Thant, 50400 Kuala Lumpur
chochafoodstore.com +603 2179 8082
cilantrokl.com
Visit modern Malaysian eatery
Chocha Foodstore for well- French Japanese restaurant Cilantro
executed food that showcases local Restaurant & Wine Bar is a legacy
ingredients with balanced, nuanced establishment, executing its cuisine
flavours. Its ambience is rustic and consistently well. Patrons can be
unique, a great place for meeting assured of delectable French cuisine ASIAN/CONTEMPORARY ASIAN

friends. Try the ambuyat, made out with use of seasonal Japanese COMMUNAL TABLE BY
of sago palm tree starch, and served ingredients. Warm service and GENሂ
three different ways. Make sure to premium quality are the reasons 68, Lebuh Presgrave, 10300,
order the ulam lemang, wrapped in why the restaurant continues to George Town
fragrant sweet potato leaves, and the be one of the best in town. The +6012 578 3323
lemongrass-smoked chicken. ambience provides privacy, while gencommunaltable.com
the wine list is also extensive. Don’t
miss the cold capellini coated with Communal Table by Genሂ
a sauce made from truffle oil paired showcases Malaysian food culture
with sea urchin from Hokkaido. and produce through strong, funky,
zesty flavours. It executes its fine-
casual food well, and is good value
for money. Must-try dishes include
the pork collar skewer, crudités,
and Bidor duck. The restaurant
has a great team atmosphere with
an open kitchen, while staff are
knowledgeable and hospitable.

MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

DANCING FISH
Lot T120-T122, 3rd Floor, Bangsar
Shopping Centre, 285 Jalan Maarof,
Bukit Bandaraya,
59000 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2011 2743
dancingfish.asia

Dancing Fish champions spice-


laden Malay-Indo flavours and does
not skimp on quality and quantity.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION
The restaurant has lasted the test of
CURIOS-CITY time due to consistency and dishes
164A, Victoria St, 10300 George Town that pack a punch. It is perfect for
+6014 210 5236 gatherings and has something for
instagram.com/curioscity.pg everyone—the signature Dancing
Fish with Curry Keluak and Baby
Modern and sleek in design, Curios-City provides a relaxed gastronomic Octopus is a must-order. Service
experience in a beautiful setting. The restaurant’s name captures the same is also an absolute treat, with staff
inquisitive spirit that underpins the dishes served, which are memorable and carrying buckets of rice, ready to top
exquisitely executed. up where needed. 105
THE REVIEWS

D-E
FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

DC RESTAURANT DEWAKAN EAT AND COOK


44, Persiaran Zaaba, Taman Tun Dr. Level 48, Naza Tower, Platinum H-6-1, Pusat Perdagangan Bandar,
Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur Park, No 10, Persiaran KLCC, Persiaran Jalil 1, Bukit Jalil,
+603 7731 0502 50088 Kuala Lumpur 57000 Kuala Lumpur
restaurant-dc.com +6012 789 6720 +603 9765 6898
dewakan.my eatandcook.asia
DC Restaurant presents classic
French cuisine with a strong Dewakan is the crown jewel of Eat and Cook presents an
overlay of Japanese influences with Malaysian fine dining, introducing innovative, experimental Malaysian
clean execution and the highest guests to indigenous ingredients tasting menu. The creative dishes
quality ingredients. The restaurant with its beautiful plates while often have a backstory and evoke
impresses year after year, and its pushing boundaries and advancing nostalgia, using local ingredients
phenomenal attention to detail and our culinary scene. No one else in clever ways. What stands out is
consistency deserves applause. A does justice to local produce quite the passion and sincere hospitality
favourite dish many return for is like Darren Teoh, and Dewakan’s from the team who look to place
the Echo of the Sea, cold angel hair dishes have an educational aspect Malaysian produce on the map.
pasta in a signature truffle sauce to them, using lesser-known local While the menu constantly changes,
with Bafun uni, blue shrimp, and produce in a daring, experimental portions are always generous and
local mud crab. manner. There is attention to detail satisfying. The intimate setting is
in the experience, and the team refined while being engaging.
impresses with in-depth knowledge
of ingredients.

CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

EE CHINESE CUISINE
Level 1, Eastin Hotel Kuala Lumpur, 13 Jalan 16/11 Seksyen 16,
46350 Petaling Jaya
+6016 262 2059
kualalumpur.eastin.com/dining /ee-chinese-cuisine

Ee Chinese Cuisine is known for classic Chinese dishes. Signatures include


the Roasted Crispy Irish Silver Hill Duck with golden-brown skin, the
Smoked Village Chicken with Agarwood Tea, and the Australian Beef
Tenderloin fried in Szechuan spices.
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

ED.JU OMAKASE
G-19, Ground Floor,
Damansara City Mall, 6,
Jalan Damanlela, Damansara City,
50490 Kuala Lumpur
+6012 301 3060
edjuomakase.com

While dishes at Ed.Ju Omakase are


Japanese in nature, techniques and
flavours come from executive chef
and co-owner Eddie Ng’s diverse
experiences. His dedication and
passion for Japanese flavours shine
through his food, which is creative
yet consistent. The restaurant
uniquely serves aged sushi, as well
106 as uses black vinegar in its sushi rice.
E-F
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

ELEGANT INN HONG KONG


CUISINE
2.01, Podium Block, Menara Hap
Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee,
50450 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2070 9399
instagram.com/elegant.inn

With attention to detail down to


personally selected ingredients,
Elegant Inn Hong Kong Cuisine
boasts consistent and refined
Cantonese cuisine. The menu is a
delightful fusion of traditional fare
and innovative culinary techniques.
ASIAN/CONTEMPORARY ASIAN
Dim sum is delicately executed,
and service is commendable, EMBER
with staff ready to swoop in with 20, Jalan Wan Kadir 1, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
recommendations based on +6018 323 2786
individual preferences. emberkl.com

Local ingredients and sustainability are at the forefront of Ember’s


operations. Dishes are consistent, and signatures include the smoked beef
tartare, the two-week-dry aged duck breast with seasonal vegetables, and the
coconut kerisik ice cream with kuih and bunga kantan.

FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

ENTIER FIFTY TALES


Level 41, Alila Bangsar, No.58, Jalan 19, Jalan 21/11b, Sea Park, 46300
Ang Seng, 50470 Kuala Lumpur Petaling Jaya, Selangor
+603 2268 3819 +6012 249 2697
entierfrenchdining.com fiftytales.com

Known for French fare that uses Known for its handmade egg
ASIAN/CONTEMPORARY ASIAN
quality seasonal produce, Entier noodles, Fifty Tales boasts delicious,
EMBER BEACH CLUB effortlessly impresses with its no-frills comfort food that is good
One&Only Desaru Coast, Malaysia, creative dishes that are executed for all occasions. Try the OG Style
Persiaran Damai, Desaru Coast, to perfection. The dining space Noodle Bowl which sees its alkaline-
81930 Bandar Penawar, is tasteful and comfortable, and free noodles tossed with pork lard,
Johor service is top notch. Seasonal tasting soy sauce and aromatics, paired
+607 878 3400 menu and a la carte options are with pork belly braised in beer and
oneandonlyresorts.com/desaru-coast/ available, and signature dishes to an egg marinated in Chinese wine.
dining /ember order include the foie gras-stuffed The simple bowl was the first-ever
whole quail as well as the red noodle bowl the restaurant put out,
Ember Beach Club is known for its berries-marinated rhubarb with and still remains on its menu to this
Asian-inspired barbecue offerings. chocolate mousse and strawberry day. Other must-try dishes include
Signature dishes include the cured sorbet. Whether you are hosting the signature roasted chicken,
hamachi with coconut ash, the a business lunch or visiting for a which takes four days to make, as
torched cassava cake with kaya special occasion, guests are assured well as the duck egg kaya mochi.
ice cream and wax apple, and the of a good time that is also of good Attentive staff, excellent service,
signature confit chicken, the latter value. and interesting menu additions
of which is accompanied with sago, keep patrons coming back for new
kailan, and rich percik-style sauce. experiences. 107
THE REVIEWS

F-G
INDIAN JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE THAI

FLOUR GEKKO DINING GAI BY DARREN CHIN


12, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, 120A, Jalan Kasah, Medan 26A, Lorong Datuk Sulaiman 1,
55100 Kuala Lumpur Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur Taman Tun Dr. Ismail,
+6012 960 0053 +6010 275 1800 60000 Kuala Lumpur
flourrestaurant.com.my instagram.com/gekko.dining +603 7732 4406
gai-kl.com
Flour seeks to challenge With a detail-oriented chef and
preconceived notions that may a team with high appreciation For a rare taste of Lanna-style
exist about Indian cuisine with its for quality, Gekko Dining serves cuisine, visit Gai by Darren Chin.
bold and modern creations. Dishes excellent and consistent dishes, be The focus on Northern Thai cuisine
are well-researched and expressed it Japanese-inspired small plates distinguishes it from other similar
in a contemporary fashion. The or an omakase experience. Service eateries, and there is plenty of soul
restaurant’s location and elegant is personal and genuine, and the and care that goes into the fare.
ambience make it ideal for an restaurant is able to adapt to dietary Its charming interior, with woven
intimate celebration with friends. needs. rattan installations, refined wood
panelling, and elegant chairs,
makes it ideal for leisurely meals in
MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN
larger groups. Try Lady Boss Nana
GEN ሂ Signature Tom Yum Seafood, Jay
Unit 6, 8 Gat Lebuh Gereja, 10300 George Town Fai’s Crab Omelette, and the Super
+6012 511 3323 Premium Crab Ball.
genpenang.com

Genሂ’s take on showcasing Malaysian food makes for a memorable dining


experience. Creative, imaginative dishes such as the Buah Kulim, Oyster,
and White Corn highlight local ingredients through skilful techniques and
meticulous cooking. The restaurant’s clean and modern setting, along with
its central location, creates an inviting arena. Paired with impeccable service,
the restaurant pushes the envelope for Penang’s fine dining scene while
allowing guests to rediscover Malaysian Chinese flavours like never before.

ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

GOODDAM
B-G-07, The HUB SS2,
Jalan Harapan, Seksyen 19,
46300 Petaling Jaya
gooddam.com

With a seasonal menu that changes


quarterly, modern Italian restaurant
Gooddam goes beyond pizza and
pasta, drawing inspiration from
regional Italian cuisine. Try the
tajarin, a traditional pasta from
Piemonte, which is typically
featured in the menu at the end of
the year during the festive season.
Another dish not to be missed is
the aged duck, which is served with
108 ‘nduja caramel.
H-J
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

HAI YAN JAPAS KUALA LUMPUR


The Ritz-Carlton, Langkawi, 199, 11th Floor, WORK@Clearwater,
Jalan Pantai Kok, Teluk Nibong, Changkat Semantan, Damansara
07000 Langkawi Heights, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
+604 952 4888 +6013 209 1330
marriottbonvoyasia.com/restaurants- japas.com.my
bars/The-Ritz-Carlton-Langkawi-
Hai-Yan Playful and fun, Japas Kuala
Lumpur stays true to its name,
Hai Yan serves a good selection of which is a combination of the words
Chinese cuisine alongside great Japanese and tapas. Overlooking
views. Try the braised abalone a stunning view, the restaurant
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
with rich oyster sauce and morel has a great selection of sharing
mushrooms, the succulent wok- plates. Begin with the Smoked HOSHI
fried Wagyu beef, and the baked cod Ikura Tartelette before moving on One&Only Desaru Coast, Malaysia,
fish with honey pepper sauce. to larger plates—the Grilled Pulpo Persiaran Damai, Desaru Coast,
and Truffle Tatsuta Chicken are 81930 Bandar Penawar,
flavourful and enjoyable. Johor
+607 878 3400
oneandonlyresorts.com/desaru-coast/
dining /hoshi

Hoshi combines traditional


Japanese ingredients with modern
techniques. Signature dishes,
which include the scallop with foie
gras torchon and the amadai, are
executed well. The service and
ambience are also excellent.

MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

JAWI HOUSE
85, Lebuh Armenian,
10200 George Town
+604 261 3680
jawihouse.com

For a taste of authentic Jawi


CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION
Peranakan heritage cuisine in the
HIDE KL heart of George Town, visit Jawi
Concourse, Ritz-Carlton Residences, 105, Jalan Ampang, House. Chef-owner Nurilkarim
50450 Kuala Lumpur Razha knows his way around local
+6013 203 3627 herbs and is always generous with
hidekl.com his knowledge of such ingredients.
The restaurant’s unpretentious,
With meticulous attention to detail, Hide KL is known for its sophisticated hearty dishes are a journey of
and inventive contemporary dishes. Chef-owner Shaun Ng’s identity is discovery, and are reasonably
present on every plate, and his young yet well-trained team are personable priced. Try the Nasi Lemuni, a rice
and energetic. Raising the fine-dining scene to greater heights, it has dish traditionally consumed for
remained one of the city’s most elegant restaurants with its minimalist health benefits by mothers during
interior dominated by a single, marble counter. The progressive restaurant, confinement, or the Serabai, a
one of the best in town, is ideal for impressing on special occasions and light and airy fermented rice
ensures a memorable experience. crumpet. 109
THE REVIEWS

J
AFRO-CARIBBEAN CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION MEDITERRANEAN

JOLOKO JOON DINING JUJU RESTAURANT LOUNGE


43, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit, Lot 1, B Land, 2 Jalan 51a/225, 19, Lorong Stewart,
50300 Kuala Lumpur Seksyen 51a, 46100, Petaling Jaya 10200 George Town
+6011 6426 2645 +6016 848 4257 +6016 404 0195
bar-joloko.com joondining.com instagram.com/jujuloungepg

For great music, great food, and Joon Dining’s sharing plates are Juju Restaurant Lounge serves a
a great time, visit Joloko. With a rooted in French techniques but unique Mediterranean-inspired
menu like no other in Malaysia, often have an Asian influence. Try 10-course menu based around
every dish is fulfilling and unique. the dry-aged chicken with sake seafood. Signature dishes include
Try the tiger prawns in guava sauce, cream, the spaghetti vongole, which the catch of the day that highlights
the chicken leg in jerk spices, and uses kombu and clam jus butter, and the best wild-caught fish, the chilled
the Argentinian Angus sirloin with the dry-aged izumidai (tilapia) with wild-caught mud crab, and the
fire-roasted salsa. The beautiful ulam raja espuma. Alentejo-inspired pork and clams.
interior and cocktail bar also add to
the charm.

GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

JUS RESTO BAR


B-04, 29, Jalan Riong, APW
Bangsar, 59100 Bangsar,
Kuala Lumpur
+6014 963 3638
instagram.com/jus_apw

From the team behind Atelier


Binchotan comes Jus Resto Bar,
plating up charcoal-grilled dishes
paired with a solid list of well-
crafted cocktails. Flavours are
robust, and favourites include the
Burnt Cauliflower, Lamb Rib Tacos,
and Iberico Pork Ribs.

INDIAN

JWALA
E-2–1, Level 2, Block E, The Five, Kompleks Pejabat Damansara,
49, Jalan Dungun, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
+6012 947 9100
jwalakl.com

Visit Jwala for elevated, authentic Northern Indian cuisine. The restaurant
has an elegant ambience, while a piece of glass separates the kitchen from
the dining space, allowing guests to watch as dishes are cooked in impressive
tandoor ovens. Try the Hamachi Collar, as well as the croissant-inspired
naan which is innovative in concept, and the meal is incomplete without the
biryani. Each dish has incredible depth of flavour, while the use of spice at the
110 restaurant is nuanced and well-balanced.
K
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

KAMII SUSHI OMAKASE ECO KAZU KL


PALLADIUM Jalan Gelenggang, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
02-17, Block A, Pusat Perdagangan +6011 1687 3598
Ekoflora, Jalan Ekoflora 7/3, kazu.my
Taman Ekoflora, 81100 Johor Bahru
+6018 461 1132 Kazu KL’s move from Jalan Batai to a bigger, more distinctly architectural
kamiisushi.my space has resulted in the restaurant stretching its wings and offering two
dining experiences—chef Norikazu Shibata’s much sought-after sushi
An elegant, intimate sushi counter omakase and kappo dining by chef Ricky Kamiishi. As expected of such a
awaits at Kamii Sushi Omakase Eco specialised dining experience, service is just as attentive and focused as the
Palladium. With its delicate dishes, chefs behind the counter remain unobtrusive, well-judged, and discrete
there is no expense spared in the when necessary. A drink at the adjoining Ba by 61M, stocked with a wealth of
experience, which is outstanding in international whiskies, is a must.
every aspect, from the menu to the
crockery used.

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

KIKYO
Lot G-3, The Troika, 19, Persiaran
KLCC, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
+6012 799 7751
kikyo.com.my

Kikyo, a fiery entrant to the local


dining landscape, is the first
premium warayaki (straw-fire
cooking) dining experience in
Malaysia. The restaurant also
prides itself on its expertise in other
traditional Japanese techniques,
resulting in artful and authentic
dishes. Signatures include the
Miyabi A5 Wagyu Rump, the
Sautéed Lobster Tail in White
Vinegar Sauce, and the Aged A5
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
Wagyu Brioche.
KEN’S KITCHEN KINTSUGI
49, Block D1 Saradise, 3F, The Table, Isetan, The Gardens
93250 Kuching Mall, Lingkaran Syed Putra, Mid
+6012 369 3967 Valley City, 59200 Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/kenskitchenkch +6010 381 1330
kintsugirestaurant.com
Ken’s Kitchen boasts European-
Asian fusion fare, such as the For a modern kaiseki dining
pan-seared rainbow trout with experience not typically found in
wasabi mash and sweet sauce. Try other restaurants, visit Kintsugi,
also the chicken confit with local which serves unique and well-
sweet potato mash, as well as the executed food in a beautiful
beef bourguignon with herb oil and environment. The seasonal menus
crispy bresaola. offer an engaging experience that
does not break the bank and are
best paired with the selection of
premium sake available. 111
THE REVIEWS

K-L
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE THAI

KISHO KOMPASSION
59, Jalan Perang, Taman Pelangi, 5, Jalan SS 20/11, Damansara Kim,
80400 Johor Bahru 47400 Petaling Jaya
+607 335 2312 +6018 289 6953
kishojb.com kompassion-thai-fusion-food.business.
site
Kisho feels like a slice of Japan in
Johor Bahru, with dishes that are Contemporary Thai restaurant
authentic and exquisite to eat. These Kompassion is helmed by Nikom
are further elevated with elegant Uatthong and is loved for its hearty,
plating and beautiful tableware and comforting offerings that suit the local
crystalware. palate. Since 2013, the restaurant’s
pork dishes have been popular, such
as the Smellylicious Pork Belly which
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE
incorporates an abundance of herbs.
LAMMEEYA The food is colourful, appealing, and
100-G21, The School Jaya One, 72A, ideal for sharing.
Jalan Profesor Diraja Ungku Aziz,
46200 Petaling Jaya
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE
+603 7496 0670
instagram.com/lammeeya LE SENSE
8, Jalan SS 20/10, Damansara Kim, 47400 Petaling Jaya
While it is an experience that is +6018 969 1336
not common, Lammeeya serves a le-sense-modern-chinese.business.site
one-of-a-kind Chinese omakase.
The team produces some of the Those in search of a private dining venue for a special occasion should
best dishes in town, with careful turn to Le Sense, safe in the knowledge that service is efficient and dishes
selection of ingredients at the peak are consistent. Menus, which often include dim sum, are composed of
of their season. the freshest ingredients the restaurant can acquire, and never fail to be
phenomenally well-executed.
THAI

LA MOON
Level 2-1, Greens Terrace, Jalan
Wan Kadir 3, Taman Tun Dr Ismail,
60000 Kuala Lumpur
+6012 289 5575
instagram.com/la_moonttdi

Unpretentious and homey, La Moon


serves no-frills, classic Thai dishes
executed exceptionally well. Staff
are friendly and efficient, and always
ready to recommend daily specials.
Memorable dishes include the Thai-
style crispy omelette with crab meat,
the selection of curries, and the Thai
pomelo salad with herbs, crunchy
nuts, and grated coconut.

112
L-M
SYRIAN MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

LEENS MIDDLE EAST LEPAU RESTAURANT LI YEN


KITCHEN 99, Ban Hock Road, 93100, Kuching The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur,
136, Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi, +6019 880 5383 168, Jalan Imbi, Bukit Bintang,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail lepau-restaurant.business.site 55100 Kuala Lumpur
60000 Kuala Lumpur +6018 646 8033
+6011 7020 7551 For an authentic taste of Sarawak liyenkl.com
instagram.com/leens.kl cuisine, visit Lepau Restaurant,
founded with a hope to preserve the From dim sum to larger sharing
Known for flavourful Syrian fusion state’s heritage and culture. Order dishes, Li Yen has remained
fare, Leens Middle East Kitchen is the Sarawak Pansuh Chicken, a consistent in terms of quality and
led by Ameer Alzalek. Innovative traditional and earthy dish featuring flavours throughout the years. The
dishes include the smoked hummus chicken marinated in local jungle ambience and location are excellent,
infused with charcoal oil served herbs and cooked in bamboo over and staff are friendly, making the
with hot Arabic bread, the crispy a charcoal fire. Not to be missed is restaurant ideal for meals with
Syrian rice with chicken thighs, and also the Melanau Fish Umai which is family and friends.
the Australian lamb rack served with marinated in a dressing of lime juice,
muhammara and pistachios. ginger, onions, and shallots.
GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

MAILLARD GRILL
G05, Ground Floor, Republik, Jalan
Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara,
50490 Kuala Lumpur
+603 7622 8770
maillardgrill.asia

Maillard Grill intriguingly uses


Sabah Coral Grass, a unique
seaweed variety from East
Malaysian seas, to age its steaks,
which go incredibly well with the
restaurant’s triple-cooked fries that
are fluffy on the inside and crisp on
the outside. Other than the aged
steaks, it also produces an extremely
satisfying and generously portioned
beef Wellington. There is a good
selection of wines available, which
pair well with the dishes.

MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

LI RESTAURANT
47, Jalan SS22/23, 47400 Petaling Jaya
+6011 2366 5358
lidamansarajaya.com

Unpretentious modern Malaysian fare at an accessible price is always a


winning combination. The team at Li Restaurant excels at taking familiar
favourites, adding a touch or two of modern influences, and executing dishes
in a strong fashion. Some of these delectable plates include the smoked fish
kerabu, pork toast with chilli mayo, and house-made spam katsu burger.
The inviting atmosphere and warm staff make the restaurant the ideal
recommendation for those new to contemporary local fare. 113
THE REVIEWS

M-N
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

MAKOTO UNAGI
RESTAURANT
54, Jalan 27/70A, Desa Sri
Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
+603 6211 1409
instagram.com/makoto.hartamas

As per its name, Makoto Unagi


Restaurant is known for its unagi. Its
eels are imported live from Japan,
slaughtered, grilled, and steamed
before being served with the
restaurant’s in-house unagi sauce.

LATIN AMERICAN

MANO RESTAURANT
E-1-03, The Five, Kompleks Pejabat
Damansara, Bukit Damansara,
GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD
50490 Kuala Lumpur
+6017 277 6266 MARBLE 8
manorestaurant.my Level 56, Petronas Tower 3, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre,
50088 Kuala Lumpur
If bold, punchy flavours in a fun +603 2386 6030
setting are what you’re after, marinisgroup.com/marble-8/best-steakhouse-kl
Mano is the place to go. With a
great ambience and playlist, the Marble 8 offers classic steaks in a luxurious setting. The tomahawk steak
restaurant is ideal for a night out is tender and buttery, best shared between four to six people, while the
with friends. The team bravely tenderloin on the bone is grilled to perfection. For those looking for
introduces dishes that excite people, an alternative to beef, the angel hair pasta is executed well, tossed in a
such as beef tartare with housemade housemade chilli paste and served with Maine lobster tail and bottarga.
popcorn. Don’t leave without
trying the incredible desserts that
ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN THAI
thoughtfully weave texture, flavour,
and ideas—every single one is a hit. MARINI’S ON 57 NAPA THAI CUISINE
Level 57, Petronas Tower 3, 27, 29, Jalan Sri Hartamas 7, Taman
Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur Sri Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
City Centre, 50088 Kuala Lumpur +6017 655 6170
+603 2386 6030 instagram.com/napathai.cuisine
marinisgroup.com/marinis-on-57/
rooftop-restaurant-kl Creative takes on familiar Thai
staples make Napa Thai a wonderful
For modern Italian dishes with a addition to the local dining scene.
stunning view, look no further than Dishes, such as fried fish, grilled
Marini’s on 57. Start with the roasted tiger prawn in curry, and slow-
green asparagus, which is served cooked beef short rib, have a great
with a poached egg, cacio e pepe depth of flavour and balance.
cream, and shavings of black truffle. Service is also attentive and
Don’t miss the dry-aged tenderloin quick, even when the restaurant is
that is grilled and served with truffle operating at full capacity.
mashed potatoes and red wine
sauce. Seafood lovers will enjoy the
lobster calamarata, ideal for sharing
114 between two.
N-O
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

NOBU KUALA LUMPUR OITOM OKAJU JAPANESE GRILL


L4A-05, Level 4A, Shoppes at Four B-1-12, Block B, 1st Floor, Sutera G30-G31, Ground Floor, Starhill
Seasons Place, 145, Jalan Ampang, Avenue, Lorong Lebuh Sutera, Off Gallery, 181, Jalan Bukit Bintang,
50450 Kuala Lumpur Jalan Coastal, 88100 Kota Kinabalu Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2380 0028 +6014 329 9375 +6012 419 3090
noburestaurants.com/kuala-lumpur/ oitomkk.com okajurestaurant.com
home
Oitom celebrates Sabah’s rich For modern Japanese fusion fare,
Visit Nobu Kuala Lumpur for culinary heritage, showcasing visit Okaju Japanese Grill. Try
contemporary Japanese-Peruvian local produce through modern the grilled Scottish scallop with
fare in a beautiful setting, techniques. Working with small homemade yuzu kosho butter,
overlooking great views. Signature scale farmers and producers, the topped with wasabi oil, and the
dishes include the rich Black flavours of Sabah are highlighted Canadian lobster with lobster
Cod Miso, the New Style Salmon through a seasonal menu. infused miso butter. A meal here is
Sashimi, and the Beef Toban Yaki, best finished with the sake soufflé
flamed with sake and served over and homemade pear gelato.
onions, asparagus, and mushrooms.

MEDITERRANEAN

OLEA
Ground Floor, No.32, Jalan Doraisamy, 50300 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2202 7858
instagram.com/oleadining

Having recently opened in 2022, Olea is known for its Mediterranean


sharing plates. Its comforting seafood orzo is a favourite, packed with natural
sweetness from the prawns and finished with dollops of crème fraîche. Not
to be missed is also the grilled aubergine, topped with tahini, feta cheese,
pomegranate, and toasted pine nuts.

MEDITERRANEAN

OLIVIA DELI
APW, 29, Jalan Riong, Bangsar Lot
B03, Bangsar, 59100, Kuala Lumpur
+6012 911 2537
instagram.com/oliviadeli.bangsar

For well-executed, wholesome


Portuguese and Mediterranean
dishes in a lively environment,
visit Olivia Deli. The restaurant is
great for groups as it serves various
sharing plates. Favourites include
the paella, available during the
weekends, and the pan-fried prawns
with garlic and the Portuguese
clams with white wine, garlic, and
coriander. 115
THE REVIEWS

O-P
ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD

OSTERIA GAMBERONI PARK GRILL


17, Jalan Yap Ah Shak, Chow Kit, Unit 1.02, Ground Floor, Naza
50300 Kuala Lumpur Tower, Platinum Park,
+603 2602 9727 Persiaran KLCC,
gamberoni.co 50088 Kuala Lumpur
+6018 288 0060
Fresh pasta and thin-crust pizza parkgrill.com.my
are the stars of the show at Osteria
Gamberoni, which is located in Park Grill is a steakhouse worth
the heart of the city. Food is always splurging on, with memorable
consistent, featuring high-quality dishes in an intimate setting ideal
produce, and service is helpful. for special occasions. Dishes
come out with a good char, such
as the tomahawk, accompanied
ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
by a choice of two sauces and two
PIZZERIA DIHYANG sides. The restaurant’s signature
14G, Jalan Yap Ah Shak, Chow Kit, beef Wellington sees sous vide
50300 Kuala Lumpur tenderloin wrapped in puff pastry
+6010 211 1398 with truffle duxelles and foie gras,
pizzeriadihyang.com baked until golden brown.

While there are strict rules barring


the slicing of pizzas and the addition CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

of chilli flakes here, Pizzeria Dihyang PLAYTE


indisputably serves faultless 9-4, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, 50490, Kuala Lumpur
Neapolitan pizzas. The dough has +6011 2698 5562
bite and chew, toppings are imported playte.my
straight from Italy, and the final
result is unforgettable. Keep some With its open kitchen concept, Playte serves modern European fare with an
space for non-pizza items, which are Asian spin. The signature dish of duck is aged for a minimum of seven days
also executed to perfection. before being grilled over charcoal and is served with duck jus, salt-baked
beet, and concentrated beetroot. Not to be missed is also the Spanish octopus
with barley, pucuk paku, and dried squid sauce, as well as the cold capellini.
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

PALILLOS YAKITORI BAR


23, Jalan Mesui, Bukit Bintang,
50200 Kuala Lumpur
+6016 472 3635
instagram.com/palilloskl

Even on weeknights, getting a


counter seat at the last minute can
prove challenging at this ever-
popular yakitori joint along Jalan
Mesui. The reason? Lightning-
quick service, a lively ambience,
and outstanding modern Spanish-
Japanese yakitori. It is easy to
amass an ever-growing collection
of yakitori sticks here, but don’t just
focus on the chicken—the butter-
smothered grilled onigiri, Spanish
octopus, and croquetas should be on
116 everyone’s list of orders as well.
P-R
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

POTAGER RARE THE FOOD CO


P11, Bamboo Hills, Taman Bamboo, Segambut, 51200 Kuala Lumpur 2nd Floor, The Club at Empire
+6012 623 3152 Residence, Jalan PJU 8/1,
potagerkl.com Damansara Perdana,
47820 Petaling Jaya
Potager is truly a one-of-a-kind restaurant, conceptualised to represent a +6016 670 4257
convergence of gastronomy and the arts. Executive chef Masashi Horiuchi rarethefoodco.store
and head chef De Wet Visser apply French techniques to ingredients from
the very best purveyors, creating a contemporary tasting menu with French Rare the Food Co is known for
finesse. Attention to detail, from the ambience and plating to hospitality, experimental and modern Japanese
is unbeatable. Not too much is disclosed about the dining experience to fare. Try the Igamono Smoked Eel
preserve customer experience, but highlights on the current tasting menu are Rice, which uses eel from Holland
the Corn, Guinea Fowl, and Chocolate. Potager also features a wine lounge, to create a textural dish that is sweet,
test kitchen, and private dining rooms. salty, and smoky. Not to be missed
is also the Hay-smoked Hanwoo
Beef served with the restaurant’s
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION
signature peanut sauce.
RESTAURANT BLANC
228 Jalan Macalister, Macalister Mansion, 10400 George Town
+6019 239 9818
restaurantblanc.com.my

Located in the boutique hotel Macalister Mansion, Restaurant Blanc


combines French techniques with seasonal and local ingredients. Highlights
on the current menu include the Tsarskaya Oyster Tartare with Thai
Coriander, the Blanc Forest Log inspired by the Malaysian rainforest, and the
Pork Lard Poached Lobster.

FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

RESTAURANT AU JARDIN RAW KITCHEN HALL


Hin Bus Depot, The Warehouse, Else Hotel, 145, Jalan Tun H S Lee, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur
125, Jalan Timah, 10150 George Town +6018 211 1356
+6012 428 9594 instagram.com/rawkitchenhall
restaurant-aujardin.com
Drawing inspiration from Latin and Asian flavours, Raw Kitchen Hall serves
Restaurant au Jardin boasts terroir- comfort food that is both refined and innovative. High-quality and fresh
driven cuisine with a fantastic ingredients are treated with respect and plated beautifully. Start with the
fusion of local ingredients. The prawn toasties, which are topped with tobiko, as well as the tuna tartare, served
team is warm, personable, and with crisps. A favourite is the Black Mamba, a squid ink fried rice dish served
knowledgeable, and attention to with prawns and finished with homemade fermented chilli sambal.
detail is apparent in every aspect
of the dining experience, from
the wine pairing to the music and
ambience. Regarding flavours,
ingredients, and presentation, chef-
proprietor Su Kim Hock’s dishes
always deliver. A highlight is the
signature hay-aged Penang-bred
duck, which is roasted to perfection.
Guests can also take home duck
legs to savour at home the following
day, a thoughtful end to an exquisite
meal. 117
THE REVIEWS

R-S
FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE

RESTAURANT DOMINIC SACHI DINING SHANGHAI RESTAURANT


54G & 56G, Jalan Doraisamy, Chow 14, Lorong Datuk Sulaiman 1, JW Marriott Kuala Lumpur,
Kit, 50300 Kuala Lumpur Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang,
+6012 484 5654 60000 Kuala Lumpur 55100 Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/restaurantdominic +6011 2374 3521 +6018 591 8537
sachi-dining.com shanghairestaurant.com.my
For contemporary French plates,
Restaurant Dominic along Jalan Sachi Dining is the ideal spot for For consistent and authentic
Doraisamy never disappoints. Order consistent, high-quality food Chinese cuisine, visit Shanghai
the duck confit with summer squash presented in beautiful ceramics and Restaurant. Service is great, and the
and the decadent Wagyu burger tableware. xiao long bao is one of the best in
with aged cheese and foie gras aioli. town.

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

SKY35 KL
Level 35-01, Tower B, Pavilion Embassy, 200, Jalan Ampang, Kampung
Datuk Keramat, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
+6018 395 1918
sky35kl.com

With a view that overlooks the city, Sky35 KL serves both an ala carte and
omakase menu. Signature dishes include the Carabineros prawn with squid
ink risotto, the slow-cooked kuro awabi (Japanese abalone), and the Japanese
A5 Wagyu beef tartare with Hokkaido Bafun uni.

ASIAN/CONTEMPORARY ASIAN

SHHHBUUULEEE
80, Jalan Sultan, City Centre,
50000 Kuala Lumpur
+6012 612 0786
instagram.com/shhhbuuuleee

Head chef and co-founder Mui Kai


Quan helms fun and unique modern
East-Asian izakaya Shhhbuuuleee.
With a relaxed ambience and great,
progressive sharing dishes, the
restaurant also has a good range of
sake, highballs, and wines. Try the
duck breasts brined in a Chinese
herbal tea and the oolong ice cream
served with winter melon cooked in
118 a tea broth.
S
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

SMALL SHIFTING SPACE STOKED RESTAURANT & BAR SUMIKA


141, Jalan Petaling, City Centre, 120, Jalan Kasah, Medan 9, Jalan SS 15/4, SS 15,
50000 Kuala Lumpur Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur 47500 Subang Jaya
+6017 440 5591 +603 2096 1645 +6012 301 6268
smallshifting.space instagram.com/stoked_kl instagram.com/sumika_yakitori_
malaysia
Casual wine bar and eatery Small While Stoked Restaurant & Bar
Shifting Space sits along Petaling serves fantastic grilled meats and Authentic, no-nonsense yakitori is
Street and serves a selection of fresh poultry, many return for the what Sumika does best. The food is
delicious sharing plates, best paired starters, especially the cold capellini authentic, consistent, and of great
with its selection of wines. While the pasta with truffle ponzu sauce. value. Don’t miss the sweet potato,
menu changes seasonally, it is always Dishes are always executed well, which is life-changing.
exciting and creative. A current from steaks to pork ribs.
highlight is the delightful selection
of handrolls.

ITALIAN/CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

STRATO
Level 23A Tower B, The Troika, 19,
Persiaran KLCC,
50450 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2162 0886
troikaskydining.com

Ideal for date night or even dinner


with friends or family, a meal
at Strato is always a good time.
The restaurant boasts a range of
delicious handmade pasta and pizza,
such as the bigoli carbonara with
smoked duck bacon and cured duck
yolk. The braised beef cheek and
prawn arancini should also not be
missed.

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

SUSHI AZABU
4F, Lot 10 Shopping Centre, 50, Jalan Sultan Ismail, 50250 Kuala Lumpur
+6012 789 8632
isetankl.com.my/sushi-azabu

Sushi Azabu offers edomae sushi at a fair and accessible price point. The
Azabu course is the basic menu, while the Omakase Kaiseki course is more
extensive and includes a uni tasting. The menu can also be modified to suit
preferences and budgets. 119
THE REVIEWS

S
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

SUSHI HIBIKI
G7(A), Ground Floor,
Four Seasons Place,
Jalan Ampang,
50450 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2383 0272
hibiki4s.me

Executive chef and owner Makoto


Saito Sam’s personality and
excellent craftsmanship shine
through during a meal at Sushi
Hibiki, which is executed to the
highest standard. The sushi counter
is intimate, and the caring team is
detail-oriented and can adapt to
dietary needs. Dishes are served
on beautiful plateware, further
elevating the meal.

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

SUSHI ORIBE SUSHI MASA


Vipod Residences, Ground Floor Lot 1-03, First Floor, Menara Hap Seng 3, Jalan P. Ramlee,
Block C-1, No 6, Jalan Kia Peng, 50250 Kuala Lumpur
50450 Kuala Lumpur +6011 1466 9374
+6016 299 4417 sushimasa.com.my
oribe-sushi.com.my
Visit Sushi Masa in Kuala Lumpur for refined and authentic edomae-style
Specialising in traditional edomae sushi. With exceptional seasonal produce, a sublime balance of hot and
sushi, Sushi Oribe has been cold dishes, and course-by-course progression, the restaurant showcases
operating since 2014 and is known why sushi is such an art. The way it structures its menu is thoughtful, with
for simple yet exquisite fare that is simple flavours when needed, resulting in a stellar experience. Chef Hisaki
always of the highest standard. Yoshinaga’s identity is present throughout the meal, with his respectful
approach to tradition, high appreciation for quality, and attention to detail.
A highlight on the menu is the botan ebi with egg yolk sauce and caviar. The
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
team is friendly, attentive, and able to adapt to dietary needs.
SUSHI ORI
Menara Keck Seng, 203,
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
Jalan Bukit Bintang, Bukit Bintang,
55100 Kuala Lumpur SUSHI RYU
+603 2110 0068 Unit 3.3, Level 2, Tower 1, Platinum
sushi-ori.com Park, 11, Persiaran KLCC, 50088
Kuala Lumpur
Chef Ori-san is the original king +6013 203 3775
of sushi in Kuala Lumpur and ryu-sushi.com
deserves recognition for his clean,
clear approach and high skill. His Located within Platinum Park,
personality shines through when Sushi Ryu offers fine Japanese
engaging with guests, who often cuisine. Try the kanpachi carpaccio
return for a personal, authentic with truffle oil and the A5 Wagyu
experience. beef sando. The capellini pasta with
sweet king crab meat and truffle
120 sauce is not to be missed.
S-T
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

SUSHI SHIN JB SUSHI SORA


55, Jalan Keris 1, Taman Sri Tebrau, Unit 2-48, Level 48, Naza Tower, 10, Persiaran KLCC, 50088 Kuala Lumpur
80050 Johor Bahru +6013 203 3824
+6011 2675 6181 sora-sushi.com
sushishinjb.com
Located at the top of Naza Tower, Sushi Sora is an exclusive eight-seater sushi
For fusion Japanese fare done counter that serves edomae-style sushi. The dining experience is serene and
right, visit Sushi Shin JB. Eating exclusive, using seasonal, premium produce.
here is calming and zen, and dishes
consist of high-quality ingredients
that are well treated. Look forward
to delectable courses such as the
Carabineros Prawn Nigiri with
Oscietra Caviar, Spicy Citrus
Toro topped with Ikura and the
Amadai Fugu Dashi with Matsutake
Mushroom.

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

SUSHI TAKUMI
81, Jalan SS20/11, Damansara Kim,
47400 Petaling Jaya
+6018 356 6725
instagram.com/sushitakumi.kl

With its friendly team, Sushi


Takumi is ideal for those looking
for an approachable, fine Japanese
meal. Dishes are creative and
playful, with contemporary JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

elements that are enjoyably SUSHI TAKA TABLE & APRON


surprising. Level 3A, The St Regis Kuala 23, Jalan SS 20/11, Damansara Kim,
Lumpur, 6 Jalan Stesen Sentral 2, 47400 Petaling Jaya
50470 Kuala Lumpur +603 7733 4000
+6012 330 3600 tableandapron.my
taka-ushi.com/taka
Table & Apron boasts top-notch
Sushi Taka gives guests an authentic hospitality, and paired with its
edomae-style sushi omakase honest cooking inspired by the
experience that is one of the best joys of comfort food, the restaurant
in Kuala Lumpur. Every dish is is always a hit. Fan favourites are
meticulously thought out and always cooked to perfection–the
executed, and service is always Buckwheat Fried Chicken is the
top-notch, as expected of such an restaurant’s golden glory and has
establishment. From importing been a constant for the past nine
its own seafood to its elegant 300- years. The drumsticks and thighs are
year old hinoki wood counter, the soaked in a lemongrass brine before
restaurant does not cut corners. The they are coated in buckwheat batter
tamago yaki (Japanese omelette) and expertly fried. No matter how
served towards the end of the meal many times you have visited, the
is decadent and luscious and is the friendly team and consistent food
perfect representation of the attention that highlights local produce will
to detail present at Sushi Taka. keep you coming back for more. 121
THE REVIEWS

T
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

TENMASA TENSHIN
Unit 3.3 Annexe, Level 2, Tower 1, Level 3A, The St Regis Kuala
Platinum Park, 11, Persiaran KLCC, Lumpur, 6 Jalan Stesen Sentral 2,
50088 Kuala Lumpur 50470 Kuala Lumpur
+6013 203 3708 +6012 330 3600
instagram.com/tenmasa.kl taka-ushi.com
Tenmasa delivers perfectly fried,
delectable morsels of tempura With more than 20 years of
that are light on the palate. A experience, Tenshin’s head
combination of fresh, seasonal tempura chef, Kenichi Ishikawa,
produce and high-quality brings edomae-style tempura
ingredients results in a memorable to The St Regis Kuala Lumpur.
meal. The restaurant’s lunch He is recognised for his talent in
courses are good value for money, controlling the temperature of oil,
and service is attentive and friendly. which is vital to achieving a crisp
coating when it comes to tempura.
The satsumaimo (Japanese sweet
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
potato) is one of his signature dishes,
TENRYU soft and tender inside yet perfectly
Lot 101 & 119, 1st Floor, Wisma Lim crisp on the outside.
Foo Yong, 86, Jalan Raja Chulan,
50200 Kuala Lumpur
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION
+6018 396 1888
tenryu-kl.com THE BRASSERIE
The St Regis Kuala Lumpur, 6 Jalan Stesen Sentral 2, 50470 Kuala Lumpur
Tenryu serves a seasonal, kappo +603 2727 6666
style menu that feels refined but thebrasseriekl.com
not forced. Service is attentive yet
unintrusive, and executive chef Executive chef Keith Hooker leads the team at The Brasserie, presenting
Shinsuke Otomo interacts with well-executed plates that blend Asian and European influences. Begin with
guests personally while presenting the Highland Beetroot, a dish of salt-baked red beetroots, slow-cooked yellow
his dishes with skill. beetroots, and beetroot hummus, finished with a blackberry vinaigrette.
The Cod & Abalone is Hooker’s favourite dish due to its harmonious blend of
flavours, while the Free Range Australian Lamb features both lamb rack and
GRILL/STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD
lamb shoulder paired with carrots.
THE BEATO STEAKHOUSE
24-1, Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar,
59100 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2202 2405
beato.com.my

For consistent, well-executed


steaks, visit The Beato Steakhouse.
The restaurant is known for its
dry-aged steaks, which are rich
in flavour and tender in texture.
Not to be missed is also the Wagyu
tenderloin. Pair the meats with the
Caesar salad, which is generous in
portion.

122
T
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION

THE DINING ROOM


Jalan Teluk Datai, 07000 Langkawi
+604 950 0500
thedatai.com/dining /the-dining-room

Helmed by senior chef de cuisine


Chai Chun Boon, The Dining Room
offers a range of degustation and
set menus that make use of diverse,
seasonal ingredients. Working with
fresh ingredients from responsible
producers, the restaurant promises a
relaxing experience with meticulous
attention to detail. The service team
is attentive and professional, and
able to accommodate any whim.

MALAYSIAN/CONTEMPORARY MALAYSIAN

THE GULAI HOUSE


Jalan Teluk Datai, 07000 Langkawi
+604 950 0500
thedatai.com/dining /the-gulai-house

With its idyllic rainforest setting, The Gulai House marries cherished local
specialities with exceptional service. The restaurant does justice to the
richness of our local cuisine and is a hit with both tourists and locals, with
its multicourse dinners, flavourful signatures, and a hearty selection of
beverages. Try the signature rendang, which features slow-braised dried beef
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE
short ribs with fresh coconut milk, chilli turmeric root, and lemongrass.
THE MING ROOM
285, Jalan Maarof, 3rd Floor,
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
Bangsar Shopping Center, Bangsar,
59000 Kuala Lumpur TONO IZAKAYA TORITAMA
+603 2284 8822 Multiple locations Publika Dutamas, D3-G3, 1, Jalan
orientalrestaurants.com.my/the-ming- instagram.com/tonoizakaya Dutamas 1, Solaris Dutamas, 50480
room Kuala Lumpur
This casual Japanese izakaya is the +603 6211 0306
With its clean execution and ideal restaurant for a fun night out instagram.com/toritamamy
approach to Chinese ingredients, with friends. It boasts a variety of
The Ming Room is known for modern Japanese dishes that make For consistent, casual Japanese
traditional Cantonese flavours with use of high-quality ingredients yakitori, Toritama comes to mind.
a touch of innovation. The ambience in a cosy setting. Order the pearl Its location is convenient, and the
is pleasant and ideal for lunch or corn with crab drizzled with a miso ambience is classy and comfortable.
dinner with friends or family. dressing as well as the foie gras sando. 123
THE REVIEWS

U-W
FRENCH/CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

ULTIME MALAYSIA
Level 3A, Menara Noble Land, 2,
Jalan Changkat, Jalan Ceylon,
50200 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2704 0988
ultime.com.my

French restaurant Ultime Malaysia


is loved for its generous selection of
bread. The menu changes seasonally
but signature dishes include the
Egg Mollet, a soft-cooked sous vide
egg with champignon and truffle
mushroom soup, and the Caviar de
Ultime, featuring Canadian lobster,
gold leaves, and caviar.
ASIAN/CONTEMPORARY ASIAN
SPANISH
UNWINED PLUS
UN POCO LOCO 7, Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar, 59100 Kuala Lumpur
City Junction, Level 3 Atrium B, +6012 209 0226
2-3-6, Lot A, Persiaran Lengkuas 2, instagram.com/unwinedplus
10470 Tanjung Tokong
+6016 214 7591 Unwined Plus may be known for its extensive selection of natural wines, but
pocoloco.pg these are best sipped alongside its menu of inventive Asian-inspired sharing
plates. A staple on the menu is the Crispy Pot of Rice, a textural dish of grilled
Modern tapas joint Un Poco Loco snapper smashed onto a comforting bed of kimchi rice, topped with ikura and
is another gem by Restaurant pickles. Another favourite is the Mala Oil Dumplings, which sees chicken and
au Jardin’s Su Kim Hock. The prawns encased in hand-pleated dumpling skin, finished with black vinegar
neighbourhood joint is a pleasure to and mala oil.
dine at, with an ambience that makes
you forget you’re in the hustle and
JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
bustle of Penang’s Tanjung Tokong.
The selection of tapas is superb, WAGYU KAPPO YOSHIDA
while the service and hospitality Unit 3-48, Level 48, Naza Tower,
are amazing. Order the chargrilled Platinum Park, 10 Persiaran
mackerel with crispy skin as well as KLCC, 50088 Kuala Lumpur
the squid ink paella with saffron. +6011 1466 9375
wagyu-kappoyoshida.com

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE The team at Wagyu Kappo Yoshida


USHI displays a deep understanding
Level 3A, The St Regis Kuala of Wagyu and how it can be used
Lumpur, 6 Jalan Stesen Sentral 2, in a way that complements a
50470 Kuala Lumpur variety of Japanese dishes and
+6012 330 3600 still remains the star of the show.
taka-ushi.com The caring, detail-oriented team
can adapt to dietary needs, while
Ushi serves a traditional the setup exudes an air of luxury.
multicourse menu that highlights Furthermore, the restaurant
Ozaki beef prepared in a multitude commands a respectable list of
of ways. Its detail-oriented team has sake, catering to various tastes.
a high appreciation for quality, and Many return for the beef curry,
124 the dishes served are excellent. which is absolutely delicious.
W-Y
CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

WAIG BY CHIPTA 11A WILLOW KL


C-02, APW, 29, Jalan Riong, Bangsar, 59100 Kuala Lumpur 8th Floor, W Kuala Lumpur, 121,
+6011 3992 7269 Jalan Ampang,
instagram.com/waigbychipta11a 50450 Kuala Lumpur
+6013 235 0542
For Japanese cuisine with a Malaysian twist, visit Waig by Chipta 11a. The willowkl.com
passionate team, led by head chef Michael Yee, is creative yet professional.
Contemporary dishes, such as the grilled beef tongue with banana leaf glazed Located within W Kuala Lumpur,
with char siew sauce, are innovative and work incredibly well. There is great Willow KL offers a refined and
care and attention when it comes to the interior, creating a comfortable and approachable dining experience
engaging atmosphere. with great service. Balancing
inspiration from both local and
international cuisines, each course
brings an element of pleasant
surprise to the palate.

JAPANESE/CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE

YAKINIKU GREAT
Multiple locations
+603 2098 6666
yakinikugreat.com.my

For superior beef cuts and a one-


of-a-kind yakiniku experience, one
can always count on Yakiniku Great.
Service is superb, and every meal
here is without fault.

CHINESE/CONTEMPORARY CHINESE
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN/FUSION
YUN HOUSE
YELLOW FIN HORSE Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur,
Level 4, Else Hotel, Jalan Tun H S 145, Jalan Ampang,
Lee, City Centre, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
50000 Kuala Lumpur +603 2382 8640
+6018 211 0313 fourseasons.com/kualalumpur/
elseretreats.com/yellow-fin-horse dining /restaurants/yun-house

With a focus on open fire and a For beautifully presented,


made-from-scratch approach, exquisite Cantonese dishes, visit
Yellow Fin Horse impresses with Yun House. Order the signature
its selection of sharing plates dish of braised European lobster,
crafted with the utmost respect the crispy roast duck finished with
for ingredients. The Potayytoe shavings of black truffle, and the
Potahhtoh shines the spotlight on deep-fried lemongrass-infused
the humble potato with homemade shrimp dumplings with lobster
potato chips complemented with a broth.
smoked, whipped potato dip. Try
also the Smoked Petuna Trout and
the Charred Caramelised Miyazaki
Short Rib, the latter of which
pairs well with the restaurant’s
housemade “chicken rice chilli”. 125
by Cuisine
Afro-Caribbean
Joloko 110

Asian/Contemporary Asian
Bol 58
Communal Table
by Genᵮ 108
Ember 107
Ember Beach Club 107
Shhhbuuuleee 118
Unwined Plus 124

British
Gordon Ramsay
Bar & Grill 70

Chinese/
Contemporary Chinese
Chynna 62
Ee Chinese Cuisine 106
Elegant Inn Hong
Kong Cuisine 107
Hai Yan 109
Jade Pavilion 73
Lai Po Heen 79
Lammeeya 112
Le Sense 112
Li Yen 113
Ming Ren Xuan 83
Shanghai Restaurant 118
Shang Palace 91
The Ming Room 123
The Regent Chinese
Cuisine 100
Yen 101
Yun House 125

Contemporary
European/Fusion
IMAGE STUDIO RESTAURANT

A Little Farm On
The Hill 52
Alta Cafe 102
Alta Pizza 102
Apollo Dining 102
Back Alley Pasta 103
Basic Wine Store 103 Grill/Steakhouse/Seafood Kikyo 111 Dancing Fish 105
Bloom 103 Atelier Binchotan 102 Kintsugi 111 Dewakan 106
Cafe-Bistrot David 104 Brasa 59 Kisho 112 Eat and Cook 106
Canvass Bistro & Chambers Grill 60 Kyomo 78 Fifty Tales 107
Cocktail Bar 104 Firewood Restaurant Makoto Unagi Genᵮ 108
Cilantro Restaurant & Penang 64 Restaurant 114 Jawi House 109
Wine Bar 105 Horizon Grill 69 Nobu Kuala Lumpur 115 Lepau Restaurant 113
Curios-City 105 Jus Resto Bar 110 Okaju Japanese Grill 115 Li Restaurant 113
Hide KL 109 Mandarin Grill 82 Palillos Yakitori Bar 116 Oitom 115
Ignis KL 72 Maillard Grill 113 Rare the Food Co 117 Table & Apron 121
Joon Dining 110 Marble 8 114 Sachi Dining 118 The Gulai House 123
Ken’s Kitchen 111 Park Grill 116 Sky35 KL 118
Playte 116 The Beato Steakhouse 122 Sumika 119 Mediterranean
Potager 117 Sea.Fire.Salt. 90 Sushi Azabu 119 Bocado 57
Raw Kitchen Hall 117 Sushi Hara 94 Juju Restaurant Lounge 110
Restaurant Blanc 117 Indian Sushi Hibiki 120 Olea 115
Restaurant Kioku 87 Flour 108 Sushi Masa 120 Olivia Deli 115
Skillet KL 92 Frangipaani 66 Sushi Ori 120
Small Shifting Space 119 Jwala 110 Sushi Oribe 120 Spanish
Stoked Restaurant Kayra 76 Sushi Ryu 120 Un Poco Loco 124
& Bar 119 Nadodi 84 Sushi Shin JB 121
Studio Restaurant 93 Sushi Shinjiru๗ 96 Sri Lankan
TBC 98 Italian/ Sushi Sora 121 Aliyaa 53
The Brasserie 122 Contemporary Italian Sushi Taka 121 The Lankan Crabs 99
The Dining Room 123 Aposto 54 Sushi Takumi 121
Willow KL 125 Gooddam 108 Tenmasa 122 Syrian
Yellow Fin Horse 125 Marini’s on 57 114 Tenryu 122 Leens Middle East
Natalina Italian Kitchen 85 Tenshin 122 Kitchen 113
Continental/International Nero Nero 86 Tono Izakaya 123
Luca 80 Osteria Gamberoni 116 Toritama 123 Thai
Pizzeria Dihyang 116 Ushi 124 Gai by Darren Chin 108
French/ Strato 119 Wagyu Kappo Yoshida 124 Kompassion 112
Contemporary French Waig by Chipta11a 125 La Moon 112
Bref by Darren Chin 104 Japanese/ Yakiniku Great 125 Napa Thai Cuisine 114
Cassis 104 Contemporary Japanese Nok Yung Thai Cuisine 88
Chateau Dionne 61 Asumo 55 Latin American
DC Restaurant 106 Binchotan JB 103 Fuego 68
Entier 107 Chipta 11a 104 Mano Restaurant 114
Fritz 63 Ed.Ju Omakase 106
Jeff’s Cellar 74 Gekko Dining 108 Malaysian/
Restaurant au Jardin 117 Hoshi 109 Contemporary Malaysian
Restaurant Dominic 118 Japas 109 Akar Dining 102
Ultime Malaysia 124 Kamii Sushi Omakase Beta KL 56
Eco Palladium 111 Bijan Bar & Restaurant 103
Kazu KL 111 Chocha Foodstore 105
THE LAST BITE
The secret to the best fried chicken, according to Hot Bird,
Table & Apron, BHC Malaysia, and The Chicken Club
By Katelyn Tan

TABLE & APRON’S


BUCKWHEAT FRIED CHICKEN
Neighbourhood restaurant Table &
Apron’s signature buckwheat fried
chicken is a staple on the menu and
is a dish loved by many. “Our fried
chicken is rooted in Thomas Keller’s
fried chicken recipe, alongside an
inspiring dining experience in udon
shop Koya, London, about a decade
ago,” owner Marcus Low says. “First,
the best bird you can find out there
dictates how good the end product
is.” He recommends seasoning the
chicken and keeping the frying oil
From top: BHC hot. “Have everything ready to be
Malaysia’s fried
chicken, Hot Bird’s
able to dredge, coat, and fry without
fried chicken waiting time (moisture is flour’s
worst enemy) and eat that chicken
fresh off the fryer!” he enthuses.
BHC MALAYSIA’S KOREAN making Nashville fried chicken He also sheds light on some things
FRIED CHICKEN at home. “What sets this specific to avoid: “an oil temperature below
The founders of BHC Malaysia first type of fried chicken apart are the 170 degrees Celsius will result in
had their taste of BHC’s Korean southern spices in the flour, the the fried chicken soaking up oil, so
fried chicken in Korea in 2017 and lathering of flavourful Nashville watch your oil temperature.”
fell in love with its punchy flavours. hot oil, and finishing with a dash
The team shares their insights of various pepper powders,” THE CHICKEN CLUB’S
for the best fried chicken. First, says Wong. The duo share their FRIED CHICKEN
fresh chicken should be selected tips for the ideal Nashville fried Brought to you by the brains behind
over its frozen counterparts, as chicken: “First, have a timer set modern Asian restaurant Ember,
this alters cooking time and taste and temperature probe on hand The Chicken Club was founded
drastically. “One needs to also for better control,” says Yin. Their with the goal of serving fuss-free
understand cooking times and second tip is that patience is key— fast food without compromising
temperature, which depends on the the oil has to reach the sweet spot on quality. When it comes to
size of chicken and type of batter,” between 165 to 190 degrees Celsius fried chicken, owner Gary Anwar
BHC’s team says. “It is important before the chicken should be fried. believes that good quality chicken,
to maintain a consistent cooking consistent seasoning, accurate
temperature, as fluctuations affect frying temperature, and clean oil
the overall quality and taste.” are the main considerations. “Invest
Thirdly, a light batter is key to in a good thermometer to check oil
achieving a crispy outer layer and temperature and the doneness of the
seasoning every step of the way chicken,” he says. He recommends
results in flavours in every bite. brining instead of seasoning for a
well-rounded and seasoned chicken
HOT BIRD’S NASHVILLE and a juicier end product after frying.
FRIED CHICKEN “Make sure the batter, dry or wet, is
Hot Bird began during the MCO coated properly to ensure all-round
when husband-and-wife duo, Kelvin crispiness and that you have enough
128 Wong and Yin Ee Wen, started oil when frying,” he adds.

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