OWNER'S MANUAL

SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 1155180
or
385. 1154180
or
385. 1011180

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 SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear CustomeP:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before us]rig your new Kenmore machine,

please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate

and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you

obtain the,best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

AdvTce on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.

Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention

the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial

number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.

Model No. 385. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future r'eference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE • Sew a Button ............................ 29

• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 30
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2 • Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ 30

Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3 • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 31

Identify the Accessories ........................ 3 Buttonholes ............................. 32_33

Sew in a Zipper .......................... 34_35
Smocking ................................ 36
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ......................... 4_6 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............. 7_8
Choose Your NeedLe and Thread ............... 9_10 What to Do When ......................... 37_38
Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 11_13
Prepare Your Top Thread .................... 14_15
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 16_17 SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Stitch Selector ............................. 18
Stitch Length Control ........................ 18 Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 39
Reverse Stitch Control ........................ t8 Cleaning the Machine ...................... 39_40
Starting To Sew ............................ 19 Oiling the Machine ........................ 41_42

PARTS LIST ........................................ 43

SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
INDEX ............................................ 44
Practical Stitch Chart ...................... 20_21
Straight Stitches .......................... 22_23
Darning ................................. 24
Straight Stretch ............................ 24
Zigzag Stitches ........................... 25_31
• Basic Zigzag ............................. 25
• Satin Stitch ............................. 26
• Applique ............................... 27
• Bar Tacking ............................. 27
• Monogramming .......................... 28
• Embroidery ............................. 28

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 _jA<Pbrtab le;Gase:o_r_._6ab!ne
t !fs :A vadab le_._:, _1
r_Lobate:and r!dentlfy _the_P_,ts:

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your

nearest Sears retail store or through our general

catalog.

Another option . , . buy a Carrying Case . . . then Take up Lever Stitch Selector
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- Bobbin W;nder Tension D_sc

where.
Up per Th read Guide

Top Thread Tension Control

Face Cover Plate

Needle Plate

Shuttle Cover

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 Top Cover

SpooE
Pins Accessory box

nt brush

Thread Guide

Bobbin
_nhofe opener

Clutch
Knob Presser Foot Lever

Hand Wheel
S _rge screw driver

Free Arm
_1 screw driver

Lcght and
Power Switch Nomenclature Plate

Needle set

Plug Connector

Foot Control

)_ Spool pin felt

Darning plate_
Thread Guide

Thread Guide

Straight
Need le Clarqp * But[onhole
stitch foo:
guide foot

Presser Foot

footSatin
stitch

* Model 11551 only 3

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 ._,_.-_ -_ _X__'_- _,_< _._._';'_
_ :,_;;._ o,_-_.-.',_
,.

Foot Control Use

. Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
f

Power supply plug

Power
switch _I-] .'; "- "" _-"
\\ supply

\
/
,°..°,,< Foot control

J
Machine The foot control regulates the speed at
socket
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light, which you sew.
Machine
To increase speed, gently press down with
plug
SAFETY FEATURE: the ball of your foot.
Your machine will not operate unless the To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your
light/power switch is turned on. If you are sure slightly,
machine, be sure the power switch is
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
OFF.
light/power switch to prevent injury to NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
children. will increase or decrease your
1, Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120
sewing speed immediately.
Volt AC outlet.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong regulate your sewing speed to
outlet, as shown. It wilt only fit one way. your taste and needs.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

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 Setting Spool Pins Adjust the Presser Foot Lever • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:

\ Spool pin felt

II L 0°°'0'n H=gh
position
\
Norrnal
position • ,

Presser foot _-_-_,';;'

To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing)
lever Normal up
High position
1, Grip the table with your index finger,and thumb, as shown.
pos[tiof_'_ k,
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.

J J To Attach :
Spool Pins are packed in accessory box. The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers
your presser foot.
Screw spool pins in place securely with a
screw d river. You can raise it about 1/4" higher than
normal up position for easy removal of the
Position sppo! pin felts as shown in illustra-
tion. presser foot or to help you place heavy
fabrics under the presser foot.

To Attach the Extension Table (for flat-bed sewing)

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

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 • Free-Arm Sewing (Continued)

Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.

This feature makes sewing easy for:

* bar tacking to reinforce pockets, * stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant * darning socks or mending knees, sewing buttons on sleeves, waist-
belt loops and waistline on ready- legs, or any circular garment area. elbows, or areas of wear in child bands, etc.
made or homemade garments to ren's clothes.
avoicl fabric bunching around the
needle.

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 z_'-_ _-_-_ % _'C_._ _-_ _,-"_- _ _ '_= _ ._"J-_'_ "_' ,;_z;_:_ ,_-_-_ ?T_." ,_ _ ._.

' _ _ ____4:=_:__;_z.Z; -_._2___ _o_.¢__, _._ ___ _ ":__:_'.-%-_ _- ' L_

The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively.

• Change the Presser Foot • Presser Foot Types

Zigzag Foot Straight Foot
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch
you wish to sew. Consult the practical
Stitch Chart on pages 20 _ 21 and the
detailed directions for sewing with the
various presser feet.
Ztgzag foot Straight sti%ch foot

Use this foot for both straight and zigzag Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
stitching. using center needle position only.

! Uses: Straight
Topstitching
stitching (see p. 2_22),
(see p. 23),
Uses: Stratight
Topstitching
stitching (see p. 22),
(see p. 23_),
Straight stretch (see p. 24), Stratight stretch (see p. 24)
Zigzag stitching (see p. 25),
Bar tacking (see p. 2j),
Button sewing (see p. 2__9_9),
Overcasting stitch (see p. 30),
Rick-Rack stretch (see p. 30),
To change the various presser feet, raise the Three-step zigzag [see p. 3__11),
presser bar to its highest position by lifting Smocking (see p. 3__66)
the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser
foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw
using the large screw driver to make certain
the foot is secure.

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 • Presser Foot Types (Continued)

Satin Stitch Foot Zipper Foot Buttonhole Guide Foot (Model 11551 only)
f 4-

Satin stitch foot Zipper foot Buttonhole guide fool

Use this foot for satin stitch and oultining This foot can be set to sew on each side of Use this foot for buttonholes. It is marked

applique and Buttonhole making. your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the to measure your buttonholes accurately.
zipper and keep the seam straight, Uses: Buttonhole making (see p. 3__2)
Uses: Satin stitch (see p. 26),
Applique (see p. 27), Uses: Zipper application (see p. 3#,) (Built-in method)
Monogramming (see p. 28)

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 • Check Your Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-like fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.

Yourchoice
ofneedle
andthread
depends
on the fabric you are sewing.

In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:

Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch fabrics

Orange (1 1 ) .......... for lightweight fabrics
Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics
Purple (16) .......... for medium-heavy weight and decorative
topstitching on these fabrics
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstitching thread.)
Green (18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-
stitching on these fabrics

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 To Change Your Needle

NEEDLE RECOMMENDED
FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH
COLOR SETTING

Lightweight:
Polyester Core/Cotton
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Wrap 12 stitches per
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, 11-ORANGE
Fine Mercerized Cotton inch
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Silk A
Organdy

Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends, 50 Mercerized Cotton
Percale, Gingham,
Polyester Core!Cotton 10 _ 12 stitches
Shantung, Pique, 14-RED
Wrap per inch
Seersucker, Satin, Knits, " L
Silk A
Vinyl Suitings, Linen, Needle clamp screw
Wool Crepe, Leather
.... f ;
Medium Heavy Weight: 50 Mercerized Cotton
Flat
Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Mercerized Heavy-Duty
14-RED 8 _ 10 stitches sfde
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Polyester Core/Cotton
or per inch away
Gabardine, Velvets, Wrap from
16-PURPLE
Leather Silk A
yoJ

Heavy Duty Mercerized

Heavy Weight:
Cotton
Coatings, Upholstery 8 stitches per
18-GREEN Polyester Core/Cotton
Cotton Duck, Heavy inch NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-
Wrap
Twills, Canvas
Sitk A tion by turning the hand wheel toward

16-PURPLE Buttonhole Twist

you.
Decorative top-stitching 6 _ 8 stitches per
on all types of fabric 18-GREEN (Use as top thread only) mch
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
Stretch Fabric: 11-BLUE toward you.
Polyester Double Knits, (STRETCH Polyester Core/Cotton
t0 -_ 12 stitches
Nylon Tricot, Jersey, FABRIC Wrap 2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.
per inch
Stretch Terry, Spandex, NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton
Cire Tricot with"QFOOT" 3. insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the

large screwdriver from your accessory box.

10

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 • To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine • Wind the Bobbin
r = f

Release clutch by turning clutch

knob toward you.

Remove the extension table from To remove bobbin case from shut-
the machine by pulling it to the tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
left. Open the shuttle cover by
Pull bobbin case straight out of
puIIing down the embossed part on shuttle.
the left side of the cover,

Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel toward you.

11

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 • Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
f

Draw thread from spool through bobbin Pull end of thread through hole in Place bobbin onto bobbin winder Wind thread until winder stops. Remove
winder tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown. spindle with end of thread coming from bobbin. Clip thread.
the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin
Tighten clutch knob.
winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding onto end of thread, start ma-
chine. When bobbin is slightly filled,
snip off end of thread.

12

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 • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pult thread under tension Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place
making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released.
wise and is coming from as shown above, latch.
bobbin as shown.

13

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 • Thread Your Needle

(!) The numbered steps below follow the numbers on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled
tight.

1. Draw thread through thread 2. While holding thread near 4. Draw thread up & through
guide, spool, draw thread into take-up _ever.
threading channel toward
you making sure the thread
is pulled firmly between the
tension discs.

Raise thread take-up lever to its highest position by turning

3. Draw thread down channel
hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever. Place spool
and around the spring wire
on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of
as shown.
the spool.

l&

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 Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold 2, Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the
needle thread loosely in ]eft hand top thread. back of the presser foot, leaving 3
® and rotate handwheel toward you to 4 inches of thread clear.
one complete turn.

If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:
J
5. Draw thread down and into 1. Is needle threaded from front to back?

thread guide. 2. Is thread tangled around needle?

6. Pull the thread to the left and slip 3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
it through the thread guide.
4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?
7. Thread then is slipped into needle
5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?
bar thread guide.
6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?
8. Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE: You may want to cut the

end of the thread with sharp
scissors for easier needle
th reading.

15

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 _- _t_ __ _:_f _."_ _-;_'_--_ _ -_:._ -:,

Choose the Correct Tension :

Top side of fabric The best tension will depend on;

\ Setting mark -- the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
-- the number of fabric layers
-- the type of stitch

Loose__
The top thread The top _hread
is too loose. is too tight
T_ghten

Top side _.._T_.,.._ Top side

of fabric
of fab__
For Straight Stitch

The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of The top thread The bobbin thread
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. appears on the appears on the
underside of the upper surface of the
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no fabric. fabric.
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.

J
Tension is too loose: Tension is too tight:

The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through
bottom of the fabric, The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of
of the stitch will feel bumpy. the stitch will feel bumpy.

16

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 For Zigzag Stitch

In the ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads wilt not show on top of the
fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the under side. See below
for the correct appearance. Adjust the top thread tension for the best
match in your sewing conditions.

Too Tight Too Loose Just Right

C. (?= _,."L Y-" _ %_;-,°-,'.-, ?J-7

:J"./',_o&
-:
.',._=
_z.'_'_'-
_m :-" % .',%
--L_

.L_.-:?&.-_o-, ;;.%: -'_" %."

r-_.\-#.-_3_-_- & v"z :_, h-

,,j
,I
Top Side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric

Too Tight" Too Loose: Just Right:

-- The points of the -- The top thread. -- Minimize the

zigzag will pull will toop through amount of top
together on top of the points on the thread visible on
the stitch. bottom of the the bottom side of
stitch and wdl be fabric without
pulled almost causing excessive
together. puckering or
causing the
bottom thread to
show on the top
side_ Results vary
with fabric, thread
and sewing condi-
tions_
17

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 t_
6 8 12240
I
i
I
!
I
Setting mark_ I

,.. J k.

The stitch selector control not only The stitch length control regulates the In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length To reverse stitch, hold down this con-
determines the stitch you select, but length of the stitch. Control should be in the detent posi- trol during sewing.
tion between S and L (vposition)for
also regulates the stitch width for Release to sew forward again.
The higher the number, the shorter the most materials. Depending upon the
regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitch. type of fabric used, you may need to
stitches. adjust this control to match forward
0 means no feed.
stitches of stretch sewing with reverse
The different types of stitches are motion stitches. To shorten stretch
designated by color. stitches, turn the control slightly to-
Straight, Zigzag and Three-Step Zigzag ward "'S". To lengthen, turn toward
"'C",
(Model 11551 only) are orange.

Straight Stretch [Models 11551 and

11541), Rick-Rack Stretch (Models
11551 and 11541) and Smocking
Stretch (Model 11551 only) are gold.

Buttonhole Settings (Model 11551

only) are blue.

NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric Smocking stretch

damage, be sure your needle
is up and out of fabric when
adjusting this control.

Rickrack stretch

18

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 Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:

1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be
afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural
fibers.

2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.

3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension
suitable to your fabric.

4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8"
seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.

5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew.

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

19

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 Other Thread Stitch
Stitch Selector
Stitch Foot , : _ ' Attach. ' , Needle : , Tension" Length " _ , . Uses Refer to Page

STRAIGHT Straight Darning Check 2 _ 6 6 _ 12 Regular seams, zippers, topstitching, darning, 22 _ 24

Zigzag plate Chart v-. , invisible zipper, cording, etc, 34 _ 35

.... | .
i ' " 36

ZIGZAG Zigzag Check 2 _ 5 6 ~ 24 Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, sewing 25 ~ 30

t " : ' Chart : , .... • t, bar tacks. . _ . : . • : - . :

i ,

SATIN STITCH Satin Check 1L4 0_'24 Use for applique work, also as decorative 26 _ 28
Chart finish for p]acemats, blankets, collars,
cuffs and pockets.

i I • • , i•

2O

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 St itch Stitch Other Thread Stitch
Selector Foot Attach. Needle Tension Length Uses Refer to Page

STRAIGHT
Ill Straight Check 2 _ 6 S • L Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good 24
STR ETCH III Chart for topstitching.
(Models 11551 and ill

11541) _ Z i gza9

RICK-RACK
Zigzag Check 1_4 S v L Decorate garments with One row or several 30
STRETCH Chart
(Models 11551 and

11541)

THREE-STEP
Z igza9 Check 1_4 Blue Zone Use for finishing seams. 31
ZIGZAG
Chart 24
(Model 11551 only)

SMOCKING
Zigzag Check 1_4 Use nn smocking or as a decorative stitch. 36
STITCH S • L
Chart
(Model 11551 only)

,,,j\
1%/

/\1

BUTTONHOLE ,iq Buttonhole Check 1_5 B lue Zone Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 32 _ 33
(Model 11551 only)
I Chart
2r"'i
1-11
i

21

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• Straight Stitch • Use the Seam Guides
f
Set the Machine

Stitch selector

Cornering Guide

Stitch length
control 6 to 12 The seam guides on the needle plate
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6 are there to help you measure seam
1. Raise the presser foot. - 7. At the end of the seam; you may
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with
2. Raise the needle to its highest want to reverse to lock the stitch. the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
position. 8. Raise the presser foot and remove
• Turn a Square Corner
the fabric.
3. Place the edge of the fabric next
to a stitching guide line on the 9. Cut the threads.
Zigzag foot
needle plate (5/8" is most
common).

I
4. Draw the threads towards the
back and lower the presser foot.
L 5. Press the foot control.

6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently

,. "" )
guide it along the guide line, so To turn a square corner 5/8" form the

that it feeds naturally. fabric edge:

Do not force the fabric or try to 1. Stop stitching and lower the
pull it tight. needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabric edge
facing you lines up with the
cornering guide, as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric to line the edge with
the 5/8" seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
stitching in the new direction.
22

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 • Use the Darning Plate Topstitching • Left Needle Position
f
Set the Machine

Stitch selector I !

Stitch length control

6to12
Stitch Selector
Top thread tension _L.
_ometimes when you sew, you want control 2 to 6 Here's How
o control the fabric youself.
1. Lower the presser foot.
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs
2. Keep the edge of the fabric next
so that they do not touch the fabric.
to the right edge of the presser
To .Put on the Darning Plate: foot.
Stratght foot Ztgzag foot
NOTE: The rectangular holes in the 3. Evenly guide the fabric along this
Darning
-holes
Plate
in the needle plate.
match the
In
edge to produce an even row of
©
topstitching 3/8" from the edge.
the darning plate, these NOTE: You can easily adjust your
holes are slightly to the left % .
needle from left to right for
of center. The Stitch and Its Uses Jse Left Needle Position for more
topstitching without moving
control while topstitching or edge
1. Position the darning plate with Topstitching emphasizes the lines of your fabric from under the
stitching difficult fabrics.
the pins on the bottom. your garment and keeps "seams and zigzag presser foot.
edges flat and crisp. NOTE: Use only zigzag presser
2. Fit the darning plate pins into the
foot for Left Needle
needle plate holes. The feed dogs Accent suits or blouses with one or
Sewing.
will show through the darning two rows of topstitching around the
plate holes. outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.

Use the darning plate in the following

ways: Darning (p. 24)
Embroidery (p. 28)
Button Sewing (p. 29)

23

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 Set the Machine Set the Machine
Stich selector Stitch selector
!

!L : ' . .... =. , =i ,1.-

Top thread tension Stitch length Stitch length

control 1 to 4 Any number Top thread tension
control 2 _o 6 !
(not necessary
to adlust)
t o %
Here's How

1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate

No presser (see p. 233).
foot
2. Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between Straight foo= Zigzag foot
Darning plate
embroidery hoops with hole centered.

3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the

Stretch stitching was developed
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
to be used on stretch fabrics and
one stitch at the spot where you wish to
knits. It can be used on other
start darning.
The Stitch and Its Uses fabrics as well. It works well on
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow curved seams and on any
This stitch is the stretch variation of
speed.
the straight stitch, especially develop- garments that will receive a great
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until ed for knits and stretch fabrics. deal of strain (ie. children's
you have covered the darning area. clothes).
T,his stitch can also be used for
6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew another topstitching on all fabrics. The stretch stitch does not
layer of stitching over the first layer. actually stretch as it is being
sewn, but is stitched in a
NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly
forward and back motion
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric
(sometimes called a "reverse-
under the hole to reinforce it.
action" stitch), so that it will
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning give when the fabric stretches
plate. instead of breaking.
24

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 • Basic Zigzag

Set the Machine

Stitch selector

@
Stitch length
Top thread tension 6 to 24
control 2 to 5

Here's How

There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.

Consult the specific variations for detailed directions,

Z;gzag foot Satin Stitch p. 26
Applique Work p. 27
Bar Tacking p. 27
Monogramming p. 28
Embroidery p. 28
Button Sewing p. 29
The Stitch and Its Uses Overcasting p. 30

The zigzag stitch is one of the most

common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. Itcan be a utility stitch
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-
ming, overcasting, mending and darn-
ing. It can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch.

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 • Satin Stitch Zigzag width :
Shtch
Set the Machine
length :
24
Stitch selector
I
!2

>
>
Stitch length
0 to 24
>

<,
Top thread tens;or,
control 1 to 4

Close to 0

Satin stitch foot

The Stitch and Its Uses Here's How

The Satin stitch is a versatile and often Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment
used decorative stitch, but it can also of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- weight fabrics.
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins).

The Satin stitch is especially attractive

in applique, bar tacking, monogram-
ming and embrodiery.

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 Bar Tacking

Set the Machine

Stitch selector Stitch selector

Stitch length Stitch length 1

0 to 24 0
Top thread tension Top thread tension
control 1 to 4 contro_ 1 to 4

Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric This stitch is similar to a very short
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. satin stitch and is used to reinforce
Stitch around the applique making points of strain such as corners or
sure the needle fails along the outer
\
pockets and straps on lingerie.
Satir, stitch foot Zigzag foot
edge of the applique,
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
or left.

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 + Monogramming • Embroidery
f
Set the Machine Set the Machine
Stitch selector Stitch selector

Top thread tension Stitch length

Stitch ength 6ontrol 1 to 4 Any number
0 to 24
Top thread tens_en
control 1 to 4 k, tO adjust)
Here's How
Here's How _. (not necessary
1. Put the darning plate on the needle
1. Set the same as satin stitch. plate (see p. 2__33).

2. Back the fabric with paper or foot

No presser O) 2. Remove presser foot.
Satin stitch foot interfacing. 3. Adjust the stitch width as desired
- Darning plate
!. 3. Draw the design on to the fabric (see p. 1__8).
with tailor's chalk.
4. Draw the design on to the fabric with
4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch tailor's chalk.
width as necessary to form each 5. Stretch the fabric between
pattern. embroidery hoops and place under
5. If using paper, carefully remove it the needle.
when you have finished sewing. 6. Lower the presser foot lever to
engage the top thread tension.

7. Holding the top thread in your left

hand, rotate the hand wheel toward
you one comp[ete turn.
Pull the top thread to draw the
bobbin thread through to the
surface of the fabric.

8. Using a medium speed, stitch along

the marked outline, guiding the
fabric carefu Ily by hand.
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 Sew a Button

Set the Machine

Stitch selector
!

'_-.%':'
._-:,b
.-_
"t:i_-_L:,: '":_-'"-_? -'''__::-"_" °71

Top thread tension Stitch tength

control 1 to 4
Any number
(not necessary
tO adjust}

Zigzag foot

O' Use the darning

I.

2.

3. Lower the
plate for button

Set the stitch selector

Align the both

hole of the button

foot
holes of the
just. below

and turn
sewing

at the far right

button

the stitch
(see p. 23)

of zigzag stitch

with the slot

the needle point.

selector
mark

of the foot

to zigzag until
" _".

and place the left

the needle point

To
threads

hole

Draw
strengthen

_he needle
leaving

in the
."d_ shank.

the
thread
button

thread
the shank,
a 20 cm (8")
down
and wind

to the wrong
cut
tail,
through
it around
the
Bring
the

side and
¢omes just above the right hole of the button.
knot.
4. Sew about five stitches and raise needle.

5. Set the stitch selector at the far right of zigzag stitch mark "!€_,_" again and
sew a few stitches to lock thread.

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 • Overcasting Stitch Rick-Rack Stretch (Models 11551 an= 11541)

Set the Machine Set the Machine

Stitch selector Stitch selector
I

l- lO
I

Stitch Iength
12 to 24 Stitch length
Top thread tension Top _hreacl tension
control 1 to 4 I

O"
centroI 1 to 4 i

Helpful Hints \ The Stitch and Its Uses

Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
raw corner of your seam. If you start you might use a zigzag stitch.
right at the edge, the fabric wilt bunch
Zigzag foot Zigzag foot This stitch can be used as a decorative
up and the stitches will become
top stitch as well.
tangled.

The Stitch and Its Uses

This zigzag variation is very useful in

garment construction and in finishing
raw edges of any sewing project.

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 • Three-Step Zigzag (Model 11551 only)

Set the Machine

St{tch selector

Stitch length
Blue Zone'=if'to 24
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4 _1_
Seam Finishing Mending

Place the fabric under the presser foot Position the tear under the needle so
so that the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides.
the right hand side of the presser foot.
Z_gzag foot
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.

The Stitch and Its Uses

The three-step zigzag is a combination
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch. It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step zigzag stitch is especial-
ly useful for:
-- mending
- sewing patches smoothly and
securely.
- repairing straight tears.
- finishing seams.
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 Set the Machine

Stitch selector

t,
i 2[_ 4

Stitch length
_ Blue Zone
2

• a. Carefully mark the buttonhole 2. a, Move the slider (A) toward you 3. a. Set the stitch selector at _E].
TOp thread tension /'?-/.._ e\_
length on your garment. so that the top mark (C) on the b. Sew forward until you reach the
slider meets the start mark (B),
b. Change to the buttonhole guide front marking of your button-
foot. b. Line up the markings on the hole.
foot with the top mark on your
c. Insert the garment under the c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
foot with the buttonhole mark- garment.

ing running toward you. c. Lower the presser foot.

hole guide foot
NOTE: The markings on the slider
are engraved in centimeters.
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference in buttonholes, you
may alter the buttonhole stitch
density within the blue buttonhole Coarse F ine
range on the stitch length dial.
for heavy for fight
1. For less density, turn the dial fabrics fabrics
stitches _ _ stitches
toward "24".
2. For more density, turn the dial
toward "0".

NOTE: Always make a practice but-

tonhole on a scrap fabric you
plan to use to find the more
suitable stitch length,
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 4. a.Setthestitchselector
at_. 5. a.Setthestitchserector
at [_3. 6. a. Set the stitch selector at =_. 7, Remove the fabric and cut the hole

b.Sew4 to6 stitches. b.Sewuntilyoureachthebackof b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. open with the buttonhole opener in

c. Stopsewingattherightstitch. thebuttonhole. your accessory box.

c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
c. Stopsewing attherightstitch.

33

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 Set the Machine
Zipper teeth
Stitch selector
1/8")
rend of opening

Zipper tape

Top side
of fabric

Stitch length
Top thread tension 12
control 3 to 6 Top edge of fabric
,/

Fabric Preparation: To Sew: 4, To sew the left side of the zipper,

Fold back the left seam allowance set the zipper foot on the left side
Put the top sides of the fabric to- 1.
of the needle.
gether and sew to the end of the zip- as shown.

per opening. Use the reverse to lock 2. 5. Lower the zipper foot on the top
Ztpper foo_ Turn under the right seam allow-
the stitches. ance to form a 1/8"' fold. side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
Sew the zipper opening with stitch 3. Place the zipper teeth next to the
and the zipper tape,
length at "6" and top thread tension 1/8" fold and pin in place.
at "3"'. 6. Sew through the fold and the zip-
per tape to the point where the
slider begins.

7. Lower the needle to hold the fab-

ric and raise the presser foot.

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 : i¸¸ ¸ ¸

8. Open thezipper. 10. Close the zipper and turn the 11. To sew the right side of the zip- 14. Stop about 2" from the top of the

9, Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric top side Up. per, set the zipper foot on the zipper.

the rest of the seam. right side of the needle.

15. Lower th.e needle into the fabric
12. Stitch across and below the bot- and raise the presser foot.
tom of the zipper.
16. Remove the basting stitches and
13. Turn the corner and continue to open the zipper.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING guide the foot along the zipper
t7. Lower the foot and stitch the rest
teeth, as shown.
_- INVISIBLE ZIPPER of the seam. Make sure the fold is
Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through Stitch through the fabric and
even.
the center hole of the foot and one groove of zipper tape.
the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as
shown, Follow the zipper manufacturer's inst-
ructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing seam by shifting foot to side position
sewing through side notch.

CORDING

Foot can also be used to make cording for slip-

covers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias
fabric and sew as shown.

NOTE:

Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT"

(6757) for "invisible zipper" and "'cording",
which can be obtained at any Sears retail store.
% ....

,35

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 Set the Machine

Stitch selector
I 1 cm (3/8")

Stitch length
Top thread tension 1
control 1 to 4

Zigzag foot

With the stitch length at "6", sew

straight stitching lines 3/8" (1 cm)
apart across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches.

NOTE: Loosen the top thread

tension to make gathering
easier.

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 PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
I mproper th reading. Rethread machine.
Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension.
Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin. Rewind bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Breaking Needle
Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle,
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.

Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
Bunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.

Incorrect thread tension(s). Reset thread tension(s).

Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Puckering Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft. Use underlay of tissue paper.

37

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 PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Certain knits and synthetics. Use "Q NEEDLE%.
Skipping Stitches Bent or blunt needle, Insert new needle.
Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension,

Starting to stitch too fast. Start to stitch at a medium speed.

Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension.
Breaking Upper Thread Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric•
Sharp eye in needle. Insert new needle•
Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Improper bobbin case threading. Check bobbin case threading•

Breaking Bobbin Thread Lint in bobbin case or shuttle. Clean bobbin case and shuttle,

Darning plate in place. Remove darning plate.

Stitch Length set at O. Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Fabric not Moving Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
Thread knotted under fabric.
to stitch,

Thread caught in shuttle. Disassemble and clean shuttle.

Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Lint in bobbin case or shuttle. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.

38

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 To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times.
The feed dogs and shuttle race areas can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread
is caught.
Check and clean those areas about every three months under normal use.
If you sew frequently, clean more often.

'!_-I
I
I
I
I 't',=',
I I

• Clean the Feed Dogs

• J
1. Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.

CAUTION! The light bulb will be

HOT. Protect your
fingers when you Follow these direction :
handle it.

1. Using a screw driver, remove 2. Use a tint brush and clean the feed 3. Replace needle plate into position.
2. Push the bulb up and turn the needle plate, dogs.
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
it.

3, Put the new bulb in by pushing it

up and turning it clockwise.

39

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 • Clean the Shuttle Race

This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area
about every three months.

Center pin of
the shuttle Shuttle driver

_'_,_ *'// -'_'£ Shuttle

Leve "_

S.u. ,o.oee
k po,nto7
case
Cover
F

To Clean the Shuttle Area: To Replace Shuttle Assembly:

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest 1, Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle
point and remove the bobbin case. driver is forming a half moon on the Ieft side of the
2. Push shuttle race levers aside. Lift machine.
shuttle race cover and take shuttle out. 2. Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as

3. Clean the shuttle race with a lint to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook
brush. will be on the bottom.

4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of 3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle
the shuttle and shuttle race. Do not assembly.
over-oil. 4. Snap the levers back into the original position. f

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 Oil the machine in all areas shown on the next two pages at }east once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you
use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it
before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric.

• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate • Oil under the Top Cover
F f

Open face cover plate and oil points in i}lustration. Remove top cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove cover plate,
Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil. loosen up two top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated.

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 i Oil the Underside
f.-

I
T
i

!
f

x .......

.............................
:.
_ <:_.....
"._._ _-_ :

Oil the underside at least once a year.

Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers. 0il points indicated on underside of machine.
To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B) and (C) as shown.

i
!

f
42
i

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 PARTS LIST All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or
service center.

1 2 3 5 6 WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING

INFORMATION :
1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCR IPTION
3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.

Ref. No. Part No. Description

7 8 9 11 1 47 Shuttle
10 12 13
2 6510 Bobbin case
3 *6862 Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
4 1939 Bobbin winder rubber ring
5 8286 Thread spool pin
6 102403202 Spool pin feJt
7 813404013 No. 1 1 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
6551 No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
6552 No. 14 Single needles (RED)
6553 No. 16 Single needles (PUn)
16 6554 No. 18 Single needles (GRN)
14 15 17 18 19 20
*6746 "Q NEEDLES"

S
8 36353 Needle clamp with screw
9 648801005 Buttonhole guide foot
10 650802003 Straight stitch foot
11 4039O Standard zigzag foot
12 6870 Satin stitch foot
13 593401008 Zipper foot
14 *6757 Zipper foot
15 *6864 Needle threader
16 6797 Light bu Ib
21 22 17 40164 Motor belt
33379 Motor belt
18 6830 Buttonhole opener
23 19 802424004 Lint brush
20 820832005 Large screw driver
21 41669 Small screw driver
22 *6889 Oil and lint brush
23 649802009 Darning plate
*These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per
instructions above.
43

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 INDEX

A I Shuttle cover .................... 2, 11

Shuttle race ...................... 40
Appliqueing ...................... 27 Invisible zipper .................... 35
Smocking ..................... 21,36
L Spool pin felt .................. 3, 5, 43
B
Spool pins .................... 3, 5, 43
Bar tacking ....... " ............. 20, 27 Light and power switch .............. 3, 4
Stitch length adjustment ............. 18
Base ............................ 2 Light bulb ................... 4, 39, 43
Stitch length control ................ 18
Basic zigzag .................... 20, 25 Lint brush ................... 3, 39, 43
Stitch selector .................... 18
Bobbin .................... !1, t3,43 Straight stitching ........ 20, 22, 24, 34_36
Bobbin case ............... 11, 13, 40, 43 M
Straight stitch foot ......... 3, 7, 20_24, 43
Bobbin thread .................. 15_16 Monogramming ................... 28
Straight stretch stitching ........... 21, 24
Bobbin winding ................. 11_12
Buttonhole ................. 21, 32_33 N T
Buttonhole guide foot .... 3, 8, 21, 32_33, 43 Needle ....................... 9_10
Thread guide ................. 3, I4_15
Buttonhole opener ............. 3, 33, 43 Needle clamp .................... 3, 43
Thread take-up lever ............... 2, 14
Button sewing .................. 20, 29 Needle plate .................... 2, 39 Thread tensions ................. 16"17
Needle, th read and fabric chart ......... 10
C Three-step zigzag ................ 21,31
Top cover ...................... 3, 41
Cabinet .......................... 2 0
Topstitching ................... 20, 23
Changing presser foot ................ 7 Oiling ........................ 41_42 Top thread .................... 14_17
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race .... 39_40 Overcasting stitch .................. 30 Top thread tension ............... 16_17
Clutch knob .................... 3, 11
Turning a square corner .............. 22
Cording ........................ 35 P
Cornering guide ................... 22 Parts list ........................ 43 Z
Performance problems ............. 37_38 Zigzag foot ..... 7, 20_25, 27, 29_31, 36, 43
D
Plug connector ................... 3_4 Zigzag stitching .............. 20, 25_31
Darning ...................... 20, 24 Portable case ...................... 2 Zigzag overcasting .................. 30
Darning plate ......... 3, 23_24, 28_29, 43 Power switch .................... 3_4 Zipper application ............... 34_35
Practical stitch chart . .............. 20_21 Zipper foot .............. 3, 8, 34_35, 43
E Presser foot .................... 3, 7_8
Embroidery ...................... 28 Presser foot lever .................. 3, 5
Extension table ................... 2, 5
R
F !
Replacing bobbin case ............. 11, 13
Fabric, needle, thread and Reverse stitch control ............. 18, 22 !
stitch length chart ............... 10 Rick rack stretch stitching .......... 21, 30 I
Face cover plate .................. 2, 41
Feed dogs ....................... 39 s
Foot control .................... 3_4 Satin stitch foot .......... 3, 20, 26_28, 43
Free arm sewing .................. 5_6 Satin stitching .................. 20, 26
Seam guides ...................... 22
H Sewing light ....................... 4
Hand wheel ..................... 3, 15 Shuttle ....................... 40, 43

44

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 Ill,

_) WARRANTY #

#
__&

FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD

For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear
in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, wiring, switch and
# speed control.

- FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

- For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.

,p
- WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES.
#

A) This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.

_1 SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 i,

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 SEWING MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.

WHEN ORDER ING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:

*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.

S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No. 649800030 (_

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