FASTENERS

There are many types of fastening available. Some

of them are purely functional while others are
more decorative as well as practical. A great
many fastenings are hand stitched in place.
284 FASTENERS

zrPS
T/rn trq i! 1or"lrolrly tl.e mott utn/ofi ol/ f.tn"in7t rhereareasreatmanytypesavaitabie
:- a variety of lengths, coiours, and materials, but they all iaii into one of f,ve categories: skirt or trouser zip:

:.etal or jeans zips, concealed zips, open-ended zips, and decoratrve zips. Before attaching any zip,apply 2c::
:,nr-wide strips of fusible interfacing to the zip seam allowances on the wrong srde of the fabrlc.

DIRECTORY OF ZIPS

IAPPED ZIP (p.286) CENTRES zlP (p.?Bi)

FAeE0 FIY'FRONT IIP ipp.?88*?&f) CONCEALED OR lNVlsiBLE ZlP (p.294) ZIP PTACKET ip.29l i

OPEN-ENDED ZIP (p.292) DECORATIVE ZIP (p.?93)

UEASURING I00LS AND MARKING AIDS pp.l8-19 IA(KING SIII(HtS p.89 SIIT(HES MADE WIIH A MA(HINE pp.92-93 H0W I0 MAKE A PLAIN SEAM p.94
 285

HOW TO SHORTEN A ZIP Odlr,Q /,*l Sgggf}

Zips do not always come in the length that you need, but it is easy to shorten them' Skirt
.. tror.", zips and concealed zips are aii shortenedby stitching across the teeth or coils,
.,,..hereas an open-ended zip is shortened at the top and not at the bottom.

A SKIRT/TROUSER OR CONCEALED ZIP SHoRTENING AN OPEN-ENDED ZIP

> sHoRTENING }}

' Ustng a ztgzag Markmth

rr.. strtch, wrdth 5.0
a marker
and length 0.5, pen the place
machine across the where the zip is
teeth ofthe zip. to be shortened

. Cut off the ' Open the

surplus zip zip past
below the stitching thrs point.

MARKING FOR ZIP PLACEMENT 2gfiu,ly L*, 88888-

: x a zip to sit accurately in the seam, the seam allowances where the zip will be inserted
:eed to be marked. The upper seam allowance at the top of the zip also needs marking to
:lsure the zip pu1l sits just fractionally below the stitching line'

' Place a row oftacks

along the stitching line
lhrough the opening.

. Strtch the seam,

,. leaving a gap lor
lhe zip.

lnterfocing --

ir
I
4. Secure the end a
s.
'l of the strtching t'a.:.

::

l
'i,,
286 FASTENERS

LAPPED ZIP 24t-"E L,/ 88s8,

a centred
A zip in a skirt or a dress is usually put in by means of a lapped technique or
zip iechnique (see opposite page). For both of these techniques you will require the zip
foot on the sewing machine. A iapped zip features one side of the seam - the left-hand
slde - covering the teeth of the zip to conceal them'

I leanng enough .t
of the seam open to '.,'
lnterfocing
.t lnsert the rieht-hand side
accommodate the zip
5 of the zip fir"st. Pold back
ji
- the right-ha;d seam allowance
by 1.3cm (7zin). This folded edge I'
;
is not ln line with the seam. . il
--,--_--_.-_,.j ,

.i'
,'|.\
1t

a't Secure the end .'

4:&'i#1","1i1
r {tl ',

Z of the stitching
zipteeth.Tack. --,-'.

RIGHT SIDE
WRONG SIDE OF FABRiC
Of FABRIC

,!

,1
I.

fi 5 H'ji1$1n"I"",
the tack line to
I
secure the zip taPe
il, to the fabric. Stitch
I from the bottom of
tt the zip to the top.
I
t,
lir
A

.,;-,

f Foldback
-.-- O,h" ]"ft-hrrtd
seam allowance
by 1.scm (%in).
Place the folded
1. 7 Starting at the bortom of rhe zip,
edge over the
i ^/ sritch across fiom the cenrre
machine line of seamline and then uP the side of
the other side. Pin the zip. The finished ziP should
and then tack. have the teeth covered by the fabric

SEWING-MA(HINE A((ESSORIES p.33 ' IA(KING SIIICHES p'89

II

7)3 287

CENTRED ZIP 2$l*,,/ty Lun/ s*g$

'' -:rh a centred zip, the two folded edges of the seam allowances
:.eet over the centre of the teeth, to conceal the zip completely'

.3= seam,leaving lnlerfocing

a gap for the zip.

-
': lzck tne rest oI tne
i r"u- allowance. --
g$ Centre the zip
**behind the tacked
palt of the seam. Pin
and then tack in place
along both sides.

.= Press the
.i ,"u- op"r,
iightly. WRONG SIDE
OF FABRIC

1{
:'= On the wrong
.] side, lift the seam :l'
allowance and the zip
rape away from the
main fabric. Pin.
i',,
1

L
j=* Machine the zrp
.'=.*".
tape to the seam
allowance. Make sure
both sides of the zip
tape are secured to
the seam allowances.
Stitch through to the
end of the zip tape. -.

ie Working from the

.i* right side of the
work, stitch down
t1
one side, across the
bottom, and uP the
other side of the zip. ,
ir
'L,]
I

{_} Remove the

{} tacks. RIGHT SIDE
{a The finished zip
OF FABRIC S from the right side

sTlI(HtS MADI WIIH Ali4A(HINE pp.92-93 H0W T0 MAKE A PLr' !:1v P 9r

"
\
 288 FASTENERS

FACED FLY.FRONT ZIP 2$fii,.lty L,n/ 8888-

Whether it be for a classic pair of trousers or a pair of jeans, a fly front is the most common technique
for inserting a trouser zip. The zip usualiy has a facing behind it to prevent the zip teeth from catching.
)
9
z Stitch the seam, leaving
L a gap for the zip.
I
F
J left-hand front
U1 (asworn) of the
(- ,o: Using tailor's opening straight, tc
measure 1.5cm (li:
,lii. tacks, mark the
from the centre line
centre front lines.

Neaten the edg:.

,
i; on both sides.

WRONG SIDE OF
I,EFT.HAND FRONT

Fold back .t'- Place the fold \'lachine along

1.3cm 'l.ll a6rr."n,,o ,n" :he iold using I

.:/-in) on zip teeth and pin :re zr: foot. Extend I

.!i
:he left rn place. The zip :he nachining !
hand lront. RIGHT SIDE OF may be too long :asi:he seam J RIGHT SIDE OF
LEFT-HAND FRONT
LEFT.HAND FRONT and will extend s'rlclrng 1ine.
beyond the top
of the fabric.

ffi Fold the right-hand front along the

fa,ll centre front. Place the fold over the
zip and pin the fold to the machine
st-rtchi' g o" the left-.a.d side. fi.1 on lhe wrong side,
I *r p1n the zrp tape to
the fabric extension.

Ji Fobric extension
1

I
i.
. * Ff5 Machine
-/ i, ^
(J trre zip
t,1 tape to the fabnc
.J
along the centre
I
ofthe tape.

RIGHT SIDE OF RIGHT SIDE OF

RIGHT.HAND FRONI t,
tEFT.HAND FRONI

SEWING-MA(HINE ACCESSORIES p.33 PAITERN MARKING pp.82-83 IA(KING SIII(HES p.89 AIIA(HING A SIRAIGHI WAISIBAND pp.l92-193
-
7>a 289

NT--_:-:
.' On the
. . .ight.id", of the i--. -::,:. :-. .:
top-stitch around the 1ear.,rng the :oD :tr: : ..i

zip. Start stitching at

the centre front. Stitch
a smooth culve.

\ .r

RIGHT SIDE OF
RIGHT.HAND FRONI

On the wrong
srde, pin the
facing to the seam
allowance on the
left-hand side. Ensure
that the facing covers
the zip ful1y

Machine to the
seam a lLowance
on the lefl-hand srde.

WRONG SIDE OF
LEFT-HAND FRONT
l(t*
Secure the lower edge of the The waistband goes over :..:
Atlach the
facing on the right-hand side zip and acts as the ziP sio;.
waistband over
to the dght hand seam allowance.
q ac1d rou,er"oo*a de-..
the zrp and the facings
Tnm facing and ziP.

In
290 FASTENERS

CONCEALED OR INVISIBLE ZIP O$rti,,!tyl,/W

. a:s ir,1:e of zip iooks different from other zips because the teeth are o: :ie r.everse and

:.t:ning except the puil is seen on the front. The zip is inserted before tie sean is stitched
,-- special concealed zip foot is required.

\l;rk he On -he 1e[L- Undo the zip. Using :-- -:: -l:' ?1aCe Open lhe zip again. Using
seam , handback the concealed zip - - : =: '-::::: Of rhe concealed zip foot,
_ _:..- ,;lan stitch do\un the other side
.-.-:-:.'ance place the centre foot, stitch from the top
,. . .:- :acking of the zip down as far as
-:--: .':-: edge. of the zrp to attach to the
of the zip over the
:-, :jres. tack 1ine, right possrbie. Stitch under the . , :- -1 ,::;e Ci:he nght-hand side. Remor.re
side of ziP to right teeth. Stop when the foot any tacklng stitches.
srde of fabric. Pin hits the zip pul1.
rn place.

!
!
Free end
of zip tope

. Close the zip. On the wrong Sil-c' he seam oo'o,v he ,:l re last 3cm (1%rn) on the right side, the zip is
.' side at the bottom ofthe zip. Use the nonnal machine ,1: zip tape io just the completely concealed, wtth
.t:. :ne two rows of stitching foot for this. There will be a .- -:'.,.'ances. This wrll just the
pu11 visible at the top.

,:.a: hold in the zip should sma11 gap of about 3mm (%in) r= zip puiling loose. Apply waistband or facing.
-::rsh at the same place. between the stitching line for
the zip and that for the seam.

SE\{lNG-MACHINE A((tSS0RlES p.33 PATTERN MARKING pp.82-83 IA(KING SIII(HE5 p.89

I

l:: 291

ZIP PLACKET O$/i,,/ty L,n/ 8WB

.. z-p placket , or zip guard, can be piaced behind any of the zips that are covered in
': .napter. This type of placket sits behind the zip on the inside of the garment, and
=',':nts the zip f.rorn catching on you or on your clothes.

Place the
two pLacket
pieces wrong side
lo wrong side.
Make a paper pattem
for the placket in the
shape shown. It should
be 5cm (2in) wide and
the same length as your
zip tape.

Fold a piece of
fabnc wrong side
to wrong side. Pin the
pattem to the fabnc
and cut around it to
give lwo pieces.

Rg
Fold
IIGHT SIDE
OF FABRIC

Once the zip has been rnsefted into the

On the nght srde, the
gament, use the zip loot lo attach the placket is only usible
straight srde of the placket to the seam
when the zip is open.
allowance on the nght hand back (as wom)

Attach the
curve of the
placket to the zip
tape at the bottom
and secure using
a double stitch.

-"d
Secrm ollowonce
of righi-hond
WRONG SIDE WRONG SIDE i:ock piece
OF RIGHl-HAND OF LEFT.HAND RIGHT SIDE
BACK PIECE BACK PIECE OF FABRIC

SIII(HES MADE WIIH A MA(Hl.'E pp.92-e3

 292 FASTENERS

OPEN.ENDED ZIP 2$fii,,/ty L,n/ 88@

Tre open-ended zip is used on garments where the two haives need to be ful1y opened
:l order to put the garment on - for example, on a jacket or cardigan.
)
u WRONG SIDE ,", On both pieces of RIGHT SIDE
'.. Place the folded edge
OF FABRIC OF FAERIC .,-J of the centre front
E fabric, tum under
,.;'.-
i
the seam allowance about 3mm (%in) from the
! I
zip teeth to allow lor the
at the centre front
and tack. puller to move up and
I down. Pin in place.

i
!
I

I ,'""i Tum up the hem .{ Place the bottom

i

,ll. ': :i1' of the zip at the

allowance and
tack in place. hem edge.

"1. the other side of

RiGHT SIDE i" Using the zip foot,
''
P1n
OF FABRIC machrne the zip in
.,".i' the zip in place on the
place. Start with the zip other piece of fabric. Make
open. Strtch 5cm (2in), sure the fabdc lines up
then place the machine top and bottom.
needle in the work,
raise the zip foot,
and close the zip.

j)
i1j., Undo the ziP
r+" Stitch to the end
lr t*r'l and, using the
lt of the zip tape zip foot, machine in
and secure. Remove place as you did on
the tacks. the flrst side.

r'X Once the zip is

)# machined rn place,
check that the hems "| .i\ The ziP
hne up. If they do not, .i. i..I should
you wrll have to unpick il
open completely
il
and start again. !i
li
lj
it
iit:
iii
i:!

MARKTNG AIDS p.l9 SEWING-MA(HINE A(CESSORltS p.33 0RGANZA p.49 TACKING STII(HES p.89
 zlPS 293

o$lr4 L,/ qgE)

EXPOSED ZIP
::me zips are meant to be seen - they may have crystals in the teeth, or they may have decorative
using this technique'
:oioured teeth. Metal zips can become design features when exposed

Place a piece of
.. sllkorganzaon
the right side of the
work, positioning
it where the ziP
wi]lbe.

,i1 Mark a
i.:* rectangle on
the organza the
length and width
ofthe zip.

ii
il I
.--:i

Stilch around
the rectangle
(

RIGHT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC
OF FABRIC

Prn rn place r . Using the ziP

along the .
I foot, stitch
other side. along both sides of
' Pull the the zip to secure it.
t.-. organza
through to the
wrong side and
RIGHT SIDE RIGHT SIDE
press. OF FABRIC
OF FABRIC

""rir Place the zip

;' behind the
opening. Pin
in place along
one side.

WRONG SIDE
OF FAERIC

pp.92-93 STIT(HING (0RNERS AND (UR; E! pp.l 02-1 03

SIIT(HES MADE WITH A MA(HINE
3 O4 :ASTENERS

BUTTONHOLES
O [uUorl"ln u ellentC rf a button is to be tr.,-', : -: : --cnal, although for many overslzed

- --,:t-s a snap fastener on the reverse is a better option. le:a -se :he buttonhole would be just too

,= 1r-l could cause the garment to stretch.

DIRECTORY OF BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON LOOPS

ililililil!ilil!ilmllllllllllllllllllllll llll lll I t l! ll ! I lll Mll M I I I I I I I I I I I I Mltb lllrr !!r!r !!rrrrrrrr!r!r !tMMttItt\\l!72
lllururrrrrrumr!!nunnunnlutlll lllttt trttt r ttt ! !!III r r I I I M I I t. I I I I I t Itts III| tttIttttttttII l. t M ItI M IM t,/4|11r-
BASIC BUTTONHOTE ROUND.END BUTTONHOI.E KEYHOTE BUTTONHOTE
(p.ll3) (p.3o6) (p.306)

MACHINE-CORDED BUTTONHOTI
(p.306)
PIPED BUTTONHOLE
(P.307)

I I

()
.Y
PATCH METHOD BOUND BUTTONHOTE TRIANGUTAR BOUND BUTTONHOLE
(pp.3o8-309) (P.31 o)
V

I
IN-5EAM BUTTONHOTE
(P.3o8)

&
ROUTEAU I.OOP
(p.31 6)

CORDED TOOP FROG FASTENING

BUTTON PTACKET
(p.31 6) (p.3 I 7)
(p.31 I )

MEASURTNG I00LS p.l8 SEWING MA(HINE A((tSS0RlES pp.32-33 IA(KlN0 SIIT(HES p.89 SIIT(HES MADE WIIH A MAIHINE pp.92-93
 BUTTONHOT:S 305

STAGES OF A BUTTONHOLE can be slightly

:ewing machine stitches a buttonhole in four stages' The stitch
,--
the stitches need to be
'.=-ied in width and 1"";; to-sJtn" fabric or item' but
--=..t and ciose together'

*\ Machine the second

c.B Stitch a bar tack
; Machine the first side -* side below the f,rst'
,*{,, at one end.
: ofthebuttonhole.

L,/ 8D
POSITIONING BUTTONHOLES "41*4
'l.esizeandpositionofthebuttonho]eisdeterminedbythebuttonsizeandneeds
being made'
of buttonhole
:: ,e worked out pdor to any type
-; On the right-hand ' ..:, Work a second
the gament, ...ii row of tacks
='*- side of
to the diameter of the
fadse and utt U1" 5l;ler work a row of tacking
* t ne burlo"l > diame 'er' stitches along the button awaY.
"*].rt" centre front line

VERTICAL oR HoRIZoNTAL? 1,-.- !L^ into

.-.Sageneralrule,buttonholesareon]yverticalonagarmentwhenthereisaplacketoraStnp
horizontal' Any strain on the buttonhole
.,.,:rich the buttonhole nir. a1 other buttont otes siroita be
undone'
';.
-iI then pull to il,e e"j tiop
and prevent the button from coming

) vrnrtcll" BUTToNHoIES
) xonlzoHTAL BUTToNHoLES
'I'heseare:::--::-::

**J These are Positioned

with the end stoP on
the tacked centre line
r,vith -'.
tne': *,--::-:
centrec o:: ::-: '= -,:. -
Centfe ,-:::

\
I
I

Gffiffitr

p'363
REPAIRING A I)AMAGED BUTTOliH0t:
306 FASTENERS

MACH I NE.MADE BUTTON HOLES O$fi,./tyL,n/ 8@

l.icdern sewing machines can stitch various types of buttonhole, suitable for all kinds of garments.
3i many machines the button fits into a special foot, and a sensor on the machine determines the correct
s:ze of buttonhoie. The width and length of the stitch can be altered to suit the fabric' Once
the buttonhole
::as been stitched, always slash through with a buttonhole chisei, to ensure fiat the cut is clean.

) easrc BUTToNHoLE ) nouuo-eND BUTToNHoLE ) rrvnolr BUTToNHoLE

A buttonhole featuring ::,= This is also called a tallor's buttonhole

The most popular shaPe for a
::ttonhole is square on both ends ,ounded end and or--- : : -:': :i - It has a square end and a keYhole end,
is useo on lightwe-8i.- , : :-.. and is used on jackets and coals.

MACH INE-CORDED BUTTONHOLE O$fi,./ty L,n/888@

-his buttonhole has a cord of heavier sewing thread running through it. You may have
:o consult your sewing machine manuai for the positioning of the cord.

l-::: :re cord into the buttonhole foot

:: ::r-.e:teo by your machine manual.

- '.'.'::-<
:he buttonhole on the
€:.- ::-aa::ne - the machine will
: r::l^- -,:e b.itionhole over the cord

o::: Gentlv Du1l on the ends of the

*.: ccrc to eliminate the 1ooP.

,1 lhread the ends ofthe

€ cord into a large needle

-+<+_-_

f, Take the cord to the back

=J of the fabric. Secure with
a nand slitch.

(UITING T00tS p.l5 StWING-lilA(HINE A(CE550RltS pp.32-33

II

O$l*,ly Lun/
qEE.E5,'
PIPED BUTTONHOLE
.- buttonhoie can also be made using piping cord. This is a type of buttonhoie
that is worked
:ar1y in the construction of the garment. Very narrow piping cord needs to be used, other'wise
::e buttonhole will be too bulkY.

Cover very narow PiPrng cord

, with a bias strip folded wrong
side to wrong side.

"rl-,*

Stitch close to the cord

using the zrP foot. Make
two pieces.

On the wrong side, sr::::,

Slash the
fabnc between the end ofthe slash l,nes
ihe two cords. io the ends of the cord.

Slash rnto
the comers.
JG -/
^--*-t':?--'
' Tum the cord
through to the
wrong side. Pull Tnm away surplus
the ends of the cord to 1cm ('lin).
cord through.

PiPing cord
_-_/-

The finisheo p:; =

buttonhole.

RIGHT SIDE
OF FABRIC

STlItHtS MADE WIIH A MA(HINE pp.92-93 H0W 10 (Ur 5 1:

3O 8 :ASTENERS

IN.SEAM BUTTONHOLE O$fii",lty 1r,r1ffiWB

- . . . -s a buttonhoie formed in a seam allowance. It is found down de: :
,:-. -. :lat feature seam detailing. It is a very discreet buttonhole.

I t-ce
:ar:
.lhle

Tack the
opening
closed.

Remove ihe tacking stitches

:o fom the brrltonhole

PATCH METHOD BOUND BUTTONHOLE O$l*"/ty /,,"1SlIffiT]

-.:-.':rer method of creating a buttonhole is to use a patch of fabric s:.
:.-:r-:. The technique is ideai forjackets and coats. A contrast fabric c"
.:::'::t:ve detaii. This is known as a bound buttonhole.

. ...cei iabdc, draw that is as wide as

a rectangle
-:e .acking stitches to mark Buttonhole
: : ;- :n. The depth of the rectangle represents
:e placement lines for the piocement ines
. -:1]1cle. These trvo edges are knorvn as lips.
::rholes (see p.305).
Butlon u ldth Li ps

,l

-f 1.
i
;T
i
i,
I i ,,in)
.5mm
li 5mm ( rin)

B!lionlro e
:lioneler
i

Overlap the stitching on

one of the long sides.

Place lhe
:atch with
.re bultonhole
::ar<ings on
: -re fabric.
---rgr the
::ttonhole
srape wrth
re markings. ?
: r in place.

H0\V T0 APPLY A FUSIBLI INIERFA(lNG p.54 HAND SIIT(HES pp.90-91 SIII(HES MADt ,',lTl : r,1A(HINE pp.92-93 SIIICHING (0RNERS AND (URVES pp.l02-103
I
BUTTONHOLES 309

' Pu11 the patch

through to the
. ',:-a!fr1
wrong side. The
patch should make
a rectangular hole
in th-^ fabnc.

Slash through Slash into

the centre of the comers
the buttonhole.

Press down the

hp on one srde oI
the buttonhole, then
\--ry press the patch back
over the lip.

Repeat on the
other srde of
the buttonhole. The
patch will fold over
the lips to meet
in the centre.

Tum to the
nght side
and press.

-3--*i,w!s

.&... -* .#'

Hand strtch in the Pr:c< -; tr ;- :: : :

Whip slitch the
folded edges of ritch along the long f.]:i!ar:ore -::l :
:he buttonhole together edges c- :he buttonhole. the u,hip s-i::1:es.

I NTERFA( I rl G5 pp.32r-3 2 5
3I O FASTENERS

TRIANGULAR BUTTONHOLE O$fii,uly Lun/ 88fl88l

jackets, waistcoats, or even
-\ :iangular buttonhole makes a nice feature on coats,
w-here you are using a large button. The method must be adapted
from the
bags,
buttonhole method to suit the triangle shape'
=cund

r'l \i !* Strtch around the

Button .. :
ADDlvrnterfacinsto
J- the wrong slde ot Your
3 shape, starting on
diometel a side not a comer to
garment or main fabric.
make it easier to Pivot.

Q On a patch ofinterfaced
L fabnc, draw your triangle
shape. The perPendicuiar of
* the tnangle must match the f Slashthroushboth

r',
-\s.-
t., diameter ofYour button as the Bose ol O lry.r, of fabic inside
a
buttonhole will oPen through lriongle the shape as shown, going
Perpendiculor "i the centre. right into the comers.
ol nr:,ngle --'/' :..;..t .t
,;
ai Mark the centre frorl line
5 on the right side ofthe
gan'nent with tacking stitches. -? At the sharP Point
/ ofthetriangle,sniP
the outer Patch fabric
/4 Place the patch right side to the stitch 1ine. This
of down, aligning one Point wil1he1p it tum.
of the tnangle with the centre
{t front hne. Pin in Place. IrGHI SrDf
IIGHT SIDE of f^lnc
oF f^cRrc
\

f) Push the buttonhole

ft Fold one half of the
Y buttonhole fabric
- t5 fabric through the
toward the cente. Pin
hole to the wrong side.
in place

vvIONG SIDE
WRONG SIDE oF FAlllc
OF FABRIC

il
/t la Fold the other
Sloshed fobric
ti
ii ILI nrrortn" r! rl On the right side,
is beneoth li b+ttonhole fabric to the IJ whip stitih the
centre line to meet the
I folded edges of the
first fold. Pin in Place
buttonhole together'
zf *t On the right side,
& -L check that the rE ,r4 Hand stitch in
buttonhole oPening is J-*l[ ttre drtch along
straight and equal on all sides of the shaPe
both sides. RePosltion using a prick stitch.
if necessary This holds the
-/-:-- buttonhole flat.
r'l fl Tumupthepatch
LAr*.n atthebase
-- ofthe triangle and stitch
across the slashed fabric
undemeath to joln it to t5lii5*"
the patch. Don't stitch buttonhole. Remove
through to the dght side IIGHI SIDE the whip stitches.
WRONO SIDE OF FAINC
OF F,ABRIC
of the main fabric.

HOII T0 APPLY A tUSlBtE INTERFAIING p.54 PATIERN MARKING pp.82-83 TACKING SIII(HE5 p'89