PDF CROCHET PATTERN

Gretta Sweater...
 First things first: just in case we haven’t met before, my name is Bianca and I
enjoy spending my afternoons at home surrounded by my family, yarns, knitting
needles and crochets! I consider myself a craftswoman in constant creation, the
dream that I can leave a message of love in this world by using my own hands
truly inspires me to continue this path... You can find me on my social networks
as @bianca_tejerypunto. This time I’ll teach you how to knit this beautiful Gretta
Sweater, which originally was created as a cardigan and was born from the
need of using the yarn remains that I had accumulated at home. In an attempt to
be more conscious regarding my yarn consumption, which might be sometimes a
little excessive, I discovered that I had many balls of yarn with similar
characteristics, so I decided to slightly modify this cardigan and create the
closed version (sweater version).

After this brief introduction, let's get down to business!

Don't forget....
To find a cozy place...

A notebook...

And to get yourself a cup of hot

tea or coffee...

Tejer y Punto! is a registered trademark. All rights reserved. This pattern cannot be altered,
reproduced or posted on any website without prior authorization. This pattern is for personal use
only.
Level: Intermediate

Size: One size (adjustable)

Materials: 600 grams of yarn /Yarn weight: N°3, light

Crochet N°3,5

On this occasion I used the Revesderecho cotton line, however you can use whatever yarn
you prefer. This sweater is very easy to adapt, later I will give you some instructions so
that you can easily adjust yours to your preference considering the looseness and length of
the garment.

Chain (ch)
Crochet Symbols

Slip stitch (sl st)

Single crochet (sc)

Double crochet (dc)

Front post tc (FPtc)

Front post dc (FPdc)

Back post dc (BPdc)

Popcorn (pop), 7 stitches into the same stitch

closed together
Puff st (puff)

** The information you see in parentheses represents the abbreviations you will find in the
instructions below.
 What does "one size, adjustable" mean?

It means that the instructions for this pattern are detailed round by
round for a sweater with the measurements presented below,
however, an indication is also given to add extra rounds so that the
garment can be smaller or larger in size.

Can I use any type of yarn?

Yes, you can use any type of yarn you like, you just have to carefully
check the measurements.
FAQ:

Can I crochet the sweater with more than one color ?

Yes you can! Just let your imagination fly. You can alternate the
colors in the granny squares, modify the colors of the sleeves,
crochet in blocks... there are no limits!

Remember that this pattern is a guide, no person crochets the same as

the other and our tastes are also different. If you consider that the
sweater is too short, make it longer, if you think it is too long, shorten it,
if you require longer sleeves, adapt them. Dare to create and personalize.
You can make this pattern adapt to you as the unique person you are.

Never forget that this pattern is for personal use only, by respecting this
policy you are valuing my work and I can continue creating content to
share with you. If you have any friend that might be interested in my
work, please recommend me so that they can also access this material
or another that is of interest to them.
m e a s u r e m e n t s :
Before starting, it is recommended to measure the bust
contour (above bust line) and add the desired looseness amount
according to your body. This will give you the total chest
measure of your sweater.
In my case, and as I wanted something very loose, I used a 19 cm
gap with respect to my bust contour, so whether you prefer
tight-fitting pieces or oversized ones, consider this looseness
and adjust it to your bust measurement.

70 cm.
50 cm.

31 cm.

54 cm.

Granny A & B
m.
30 c

30 cm.
 This sweater starts from two hexagon grannies which will be
identified as granny A and granny B.
You can recognize the corners with letters from A to F.
We will be using the granny stitch, which is done by knitting groups
of three double crochet, you can see the graph below in case you
S T E P
don't know it.
These grannies have an influence on the width of both the body and
the sleeves, you'll have to consider this information in case you need
any modifications. If you want your sweater to have a tighter or
looser fit than shown in the reference measurements, you can add
or remove rows to your granny.
In this case, my grannies are crocheted in 15 rows and each side is
about 30 cm long.
We will start all rows with three rising chains and we will end them
by joining them together with a slip stitch.

We will start by making a magic loop

Row N° 1:
B Y

3 turning ch, 2 dc, 2 ch

3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 2 h, join with 1 sl st

Row N° 2:
S T E P

3 turning ch (we will add 2 dc in the end* in order to make a group of 3)

3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc
3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc
3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc
3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc
3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc
3 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc*, join with 1 sl st
 Row N° 3:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 ch
S T E P :
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, join with 1 sl st

Row N° 4:
3 turning ch (we will add 2 dc at the end* in order to make a group of 3),
3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
B Y

3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch

3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 2 dc*, join with 1 sl st
S T E P

Row N° 5:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, join with 1 sl st
 Row N° 6:
3 turning ch (we will add 2 dc at the end* in order to make a group of 3),
S T E P :
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc*, join with 1 sl st

Row N° 7:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
B Y

3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch

3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, join with 1 sl st
S T E P

Row N° 8:
3 turning ch (we will add 2 dc at the end* in order to make a group of 3), 3
dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 dc*, join with 2 sl st
 Row N° 9:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
S T E P :
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, join with 1 sl st

Row N° 10:
3 turning ch (we will add 2 dc at the end* in order to make a group of 3), 3 dc, 3 dc,
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
B Y

3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc*, join with 1 sl st
S T E P

Row N° 11:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, join with 1 sl st
 Row N° 12:
3 turning ch (we will add 2 dc at the end* in order to make a group of 3),
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
S T E P :
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc*, join with 1 sl st

Row N° 13:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
B Y

3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, join with 1 sl st

Row N° 14:
S T E P

3 turning ch (we will add 2 dc at the end* in order to make a group of 3),
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
· 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 dc*, join with 1 sl st
 Row N° 15:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
S T E P :
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2 ch
3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, 3 dc, join with 1 sl st
B Y

The following graph shows the first five rows of the granny, for the next ten you
must follow the same pattern. I recommend to mark the corners with stitch
markers so that you can easily identify them.
S T E P
 Before continuing your sweater, you
must have two grannies (A and B) like
the one shown in the picture.
This one is 30 cm long per side. I give
S T E P :
you this information just as a
reference, if your yarn is thicker you
may have to crochet fewer rows,
and if the yarn is thinner you might
need more rows. The same applies in
case you need a larger or smaller
measure.

Let's continue....
B Y

A 1 B A 1 B
6

6
2

Granny A Granny B
C

C
F

F
S T E P

3
5

3
5

E D 4 E D 4

*Now that we've finished our grannies, we will recognize each side of them with a
number, in this case, from 1 to 6, and each corner with a letter, in this case from A
to F, as shown in the figure above.
*We have already identified the sides, now we are going to fold them (no, this is not
an origami tutorial :/ but it is a strictly necessary step!)
 How to fold?...
S T E P :

A-B A-B
1 2 -6 1
Gr
an n 2 -6 B
y
C-F 3-5 nn

E 3-5 -F
yA a
Gr

C
D-

D -
E

4 4
B Y

Once you have identified the corners you just need to to join corner "A" with "B",
corner "C" with "F" and corner "D" with "E". As you can perceive we will get a pair of
L-shaped figures.
You must ensure that they are folded on the right side of your work, do not forget
that grannies have a right and a wrong side.
So that you can better imagine it, remember that side "1" is where your arms will
S T E P

be and side "4" is where the waistband will be.

Side "1" is highlighted in this picture

S T E P : Let's shape all this origami....
SLEEVE WIDTH:
identify side N°2 from granny "A" and side N°6 from granny "B", we will start
crocheting on the wrong side of the work.
We will crochet on those sides to obtain the desired width of the sleeves,
remember that you can customize it to taste. This is the moment! just add or
subtract rows.
Rows N°1 to N°3:
47 dc (To achieve this amount of stitches you must crochet the 45 central ones plus
one on each corner i.e. where our chains are).
B Y

Row N°4:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 1 FPtc taken from the dc of round N ° 2, *3 dc, 1 FPtc taken from
the dc of round N ° 2* repeat sequence ** 9 times, 3 dc

Row N°5:
S T E P

3 turning ch, 2 dc. 1 pop, *3 dc, 1 op * repeat sequence ** 9 times, 3 dc

Identify side N°6 from granny "A" and side N°2 from granny "B", start
crocheting on the wrong side of the work.

Rows N°1 to N°3:

47 dc (To achieve this amount of stitches you must crochet the 45 central ones plus
one on each corner i.e. where our chains are).
 Row N°4:
3 turning ch, 2 dc. 1 FPtc taken from the dc of round N ° 2, *3 dc, 1 FPtc taken from
the dc of round N ° 2* repeat sequence** 9 times, 3 dc
S T E P :
Using a yarn needle, join side N ° 2 with side N ° 6 of granny "A", and side N ° 2 with
side N ° 6 of granny "B".
You already have the sleeve width, now let's focus on the lenght.

SLEEVE LENGHT:
IIdentify side N ° 1 of the grannies "A" and "B", We will crochet this part in the round
so make sure you are on the right side of your work.

Row N°1 to N°4:

B Y

3 turning ch, 2 dc (We will crochet using granny stitch, that is to say, groups of 3
dc). If you are following these very same instructions you should end with 21 groups
of 3 dc (63 dc stitches in total)
Finish each round by joining them with 1 sl st.
S T E P

Note: the work itself indicates where to crochet each group, this might be a little bit
difficult to do in the area where we add rows to achieve the desired width of the
sleeves. In that area you must do 6 groups of 3 dc. I provide this information as a
reference in case it is a bit hard for you to visualize it.

2 3 4 5 6
1
 Row N°5 to N°8:
S T E P : 3 turning ch, 62 dc, 1 sl st to join row

Row N°9 to N°11:

3 turning ch, *1 puff, 1 ch, repeat sequence 31 times, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st

Row N°12:
3 turning ch, *2 dc, 1 decrease dc*, Repeat sequence until completing the entire
row**, 1 sl st to join row

Chart rows N°9 to N°12

B Y

Row N°13 to N°16:

3 turning ch, complete entire row with dc

Row N°17:
3 turning ch, *1 dc, 1 decrease dc*, Repeat sequence until completing the entire
S T E P

row**, 1 sl st to join row.

Row N°18:
3 turning ch, 1 FPdc on decrease stitch done in previous row, 1 BPdc on dc done in
previous row. Repeat sequence until completing the entire row.

Row N°19 to N°22:

3 turning ch, crochet FPtc and Bpdc
 BODY WIDTH:
IIdentify sides N ° 3 and N ° 5 (these sides are now joined and form a single line) of
S T E P :
your right and left grannies, Attention! you must start from the right side of the
work.

Row N°1 to N°3 :

114 dc
If you want your sweater to be tight-fitting or a little bit oversized, just crochet
less or more rows, Remember that you can follow the measurements that I used
for me and verify if you need any modifications.
Note: In this picture you can see where to work the stitches in the shoulder area.
The stitches that you see between the "central arrow" are the ones that you must
add to start the length of your sweater, they are approximately 2 dc per additional
row (rows you added to obtain desired width).
B Y
S T E P

Granny A Corner Granny B Corner

Row N°4:
3 turning ch, 2 dc, 1 FPtc on dc done in row N°2, *3 dc, 1 FPtc on dc done in row N°2*
repeat sequence ** 26 times, 4 dc
 Row N°5:
3 turning ch, 2 dc 1 pop, *3 dc, 1 pop* repeat sequence ** 26 times, 4 dc, See graph
below.
S T E P :

Row N°6 to N°7:

114 dc

Row N°8 to N°11:

3 turning ch, *1 puff, 1 ch* repeat sequence 56 times, finish row with 1 dc

Repeat rounds N ° 1 to N ° 10 on both sides (granny A and granny B), and join both
sides as if you were joining a granny (if you prefer you can also use a yarn needle). I
B Y

joined the first 26 stitches together, this sewing determines our neckline, which
will be the same both in the front and in the back of our sweater.
In these 10 rows you can decide whether to add or subtract rows so as to adjust
the width to your preference.
S T E P

Front side neckline already sewed

 BODY LENGTH:
Surely at this point you can already see the real shape of this sweater that at first
S T E P :
looked like an origami work.
Now it's time to lengthen it, If you are more into a crop sweaters, that is to say, a
short model, it's up to you! give it the length you want!
We will work in the round, so make sure that your initial granny is on the right side
of the work.

Row N°1 to N°8:

3 turning ch, 2 dc *3 dc (granny stitch)*, repeat sequence 57 times, finish with 1 sl st

Row N°9 to N°14:

3 turning ch, 69 dc, *1 FPdc, 1 BPdc (stretch stitch)*, repeat sequence ** 8 times, 1
B Y

FPdc, 70 dc *1, FPdc, 1 BPdc , repeat sequence ** 8 times, 1 FPdc, Finish round by
joining with 1 sl st.
S T E P

Stretch Stitch Graph

If you want your sweater to be more puffy, you can make more stretch
stitches. This will also make a more close-fitting waistband.
 Row N°15 to N°18:
S T E P : 174 sl st, It is recommended to use a row counter so as not to lose track.

For the neckline you must crochet 10 rows of sl st in back loops only. Signalize the
central stitch with a marker, and when you are about to reach it (the marker)
make a decrease of three stitches, considering the stitch before the marker, the
central one and the one after the marker. If you want it larger, just crochet the
necessary amount to achieve your perfect measure.
BIND-OFF YOUR WORK AND IT'S READY TO USE!!

Note: In the following picture you can see where to position the stitches in the
central areas of both the front and back sides of your sweater.
B Y

Granny B Corner
Granny A Corner
S T E P

I TRULY HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE PROCESS. REMEMBER THERE ARE NO RULES, SO
STRETCH YOURSELF BEYOND ALL LIMITS. CREATE, EXPERIMENT AND CUSTOMIZE,
THE END
DISCOVER WITH YOUR OWN EYES WHAT YOUR HANDS ARE CAPABLE OF.

Tejer y Punto! is a registered trademark. All rights reserved. This pattern cannot be altered, reproduced or
posted on any website without prior authorization. This pattern is for personal use only.