Hammagazine 12 2009
Hammagazine 12 2009
December 2009
ANTENNAS FOR
LIMITED SPACE
A n te n n a fo r High Voltage
l i m i te d s p a c e Breakdown Tester
A n te n n a s fo r
L i m i te d s p a c e
Highvoltage breakdown
Tester 13
[ ANT E NNA ]
A n t e n n a f o r l i mi t e d
space 4
NO FUTURE ?
HAMMAG is one year old. We have now more than 7,500 subscribers all
over the wolrd and many more readers thanks to the Web. Actually this is
not a great succes. We have sent many Emails to retailers without any
answer. No retailers want to collaborate to HAMMAG. Another danger is
the articles... We have not any articles left for the next issue !
To live this magazine needs ads and articles.
If we don't find any retailer who trust in this magazine and if we don't
receive informations and articles this issue could be the last.
HA M
MAG
The last way shall be to sell the issue but this is not our philosophy and it
will be against the Ham spirit.
You must know that I make this magazine during my pastime, this is not
my real job, and there are only 24 hours in a day and I have not enough
time to find and to make articles.
I send to you and yours all my best wishes for Xmas and a very happy new year 2010.
Take care.
Yours faithfully,
Vincent Faucheux F5SLD
Chief Editor
**********************************************************************************************************************
Hola, Amigos:
The FBI says there is no basis of a “Federal Crime” being committed (for the forgeries of USA
callsigns), so my BIG JOB now is to hopefully MAKE it a “FEDERAL CRIME” via amendment of the
FCC Rules.
See download at:
http://www.k6vva.com/fccpfr
Introduction
Many amateurs are faced with the situation whereby they cannot putup full sized HF antennae. Some
of the reasons for this can include: small block size, neighborhood esthetics and/or living in a
unit/village environment (with or without body corporate restrictions). So this short article isn’t meant to
be a suggestion that you should go home and pull down your triband beam, or even your G5RV wire
antenna. Rather, it is meant to offer some practical suggestions about getting on air from a “difficult”
location.
Background
Up until about four years ago, my XYL, Val and I lived on a goodsized block at Ulladulla on the New
South Wales South coast. It was a very good radio site, antennae presented no problems and there
was a lear takeoff in all directions. However, I am no spring chicken and, like many in our situation, we
decided the time had come for us to move to a selfcare retirement village. The reason for this is simply
the prospect of no more home maintenance, mowing lawns and gardening! We looked at about 20
retirement villages and units, both city and country. The final decision was for Kiama Council’s Blue
Haven village.
So, how do we go about finding a suitable HF antenna, especially one that is unobtrusive, even
clandestine? Look at the building features and think about using guttering, downpipes and balcony
railings matched to your transceiver with a good antenna tuner.
Try various ideas out. Be innovative. Don’t be disheartened and give up if an idea doesn’t work. There
is almost always something around you that you can use for an antenna.
In my early experiments, one of my best was the aluminium railing along the front of my balcony: all
VK states and ZL14, plus A35 and FK8 on six!
Unfortunately in a village and unit environment you will be plagued by RF noise emanating from plasma
TVs, computers and other household appliances that are in close proximity. This initially led me to look
at loop antennae that provide some noise advantages over dipoles and, because of its relatively small
size, I started to consider using a magnetic loop antenna?
A magnetic loop needs a good widespaced tuning capacitor or vacuum variable to resonate the loop.
This capacitor is the critical part of building a magnetic loop and can be made up using a combination of
fixed and variable capacitors to obtain the necessary capacitance. However, both the fixed and
variable must be capable of withstanding several kV and be suitable for high RF currents.
My main interests are on 7 MHz and above; however, I have started to think about a loop for 80m.
If you are one of the many amateurs who cannot get on HF or who have had to give up HF because of
antenna restrictions, I hope this short article will give you some ideas and encouragement to get back
onto HF.
Photograph 2
73 de Stan VK2EL
SOME REFERENCES
http://vk5bar.qsl.net/vk5bar/
http://www.standpipe.com/w2bri/build.htm
http://www.kr1st.com/magloop.htm
http://qsl.net/mnqrp/Loop/Mag_Loops.htm
[ HAMMAG N.11
N°35 December
15 octobre2009
2009] ]
LEARNING AND USING CW
By KA6KBC, Bill
Learning and Using CW:
For me my first Rig was a Homebrew 6L6 Transmitter that my Dad (WB6CGN SK) and I built. It was
crystal controlled. I put out a blistering 10 watts. As a Novice none of us really knew what we were
doing, but it was lots of fun. It took me weeks to make my first CW contact. Back then you got really
good at sending "CQ CQ CQ DE CALLSign" over and over again. I started making a few contacts then
receiving QSL cards, which was a rush. These were the most thrilling days of Ham Radio for me. I
still remember how my heart pumped and my hands trembled. For a my first few QSO’s I forgot how to
copy Morse Code, but with time I improved my skills. These days the hobby has changed. Morse
Code is not required in the US anymore, but I would encourage all Hams to at least give it a fair try.
There are some great resources on the Web to help you learn so you are prepare to go live on the Air.
CONSTRUCTION:
You need to be able to solder and trouble shoot a little, but it’s worth the time. Also you need to know a
little about reading a schematic as some of the instructions could be clearer.
You will need a low wattage soldering iron with a small tip, some rosin core solder, solder wick (for
removing parts), small wire cutters, needle nose pliers. Use Eye Protection, while cutting leads.
All the components, except for U1 the LM386, are mounted vertically. I’d recommend to start at one end
of the board and work to the other. There are no coils to wind, no alignment either. Once you apply
power you should be able to hear the oscillator start up by listening on a near by receiver. Then check
for audio at the headphones. If you run into noise/oscillation check the power. Use a new alkaline
battery.
Parts kits for the Pixie 2 are available from:
HSC Electronics, 3500 Ryder St., Santa Clara, CA 95051. The cost is $9.95 + $2.00 shipping and
handling for the PC board and all board mounted components except the crystal. Chokes will be
provided for both 40 and 80 meters. Phone 18004HALTED. http://www.halted.com/
You will need the following additional items (not supplied in the kit): 2RCA jacks, or 3.5mm jacks for
key and antenna 13.5 mm mono or stereo jack, depending upon your headphones 1short piece of RG
174 for antenna connection 1crystal socket or pair of minialligator clips
http://www.amqrp.org/kits/crystals/index.html
Also there are a lot of good resources on the Web:
http://www.al7fs.us/AL7FS2.html
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lapthorn/pixie.htm
1. INTRODUCTION
This article describes how to build a relatively small loop antenna which can be placed for instance at
the balcony. My design is made for modest conditions, e.g. an antenna mounted on a balcony in a block
house. It is especially suitable for a two band antenna covering two adjacent amateur radio bands
(10/14 MHz, 14/18, etc.).
The antenna was practically tested on 10 MHz band.
The design was inspired by an article by DJ3RW about an unusual design of magnetic loop antenna for
50 MHz band, printed in Funkamateur 10/97.
2. DESIGN HILIGHTS
The magloop antenna described here has a different feeding than the usual kind with a coupling loop.
Also the tuning capacitor is not mounted at the "top" as usually, it is placed at the "bottom", fed part of
the loop.
The loop is tuned by a symmetric, twosection variable capacitor with the common rotor connected to
the coax cable shielding.
This antenna is "sidefed" directly from the coax center wire through a (variable) capacitor to one of the
two "hot" ends of the tuning capacitor.
4. MATERIAL
Any data in the following list printed in underlined italic indicate measures or values I have tested on my
10/14 MHz loop.
Two wooden pales, about 1 meter long, or similar stuff to hold the loop.
A piece (about 3 meters) of loudspeaker wicker cable. The thicker the better. You might perhaps use a
copper tube, too. This is because of the high current in the loop (DJ3RW says 60 A at 100 W output!).
A twosection symmetric variable capacitor (I used 4x12.5 pF)
A variable capacitor for coupling; or two fixed capacitors plus a switch (see below). I used 25 pF fixed
capacitor for 10 MHz.
5. CONSTRUCTION
First, make a symmetric cross of the two pales. The binding is up to you. I used nails.
Take the wicker cable and make two turns on the cross. Leave 5 cm (2 inch) space between the turns
and leave a piece of free cable hanging at the end. See also picture:
Take the GDO and test resonant frequency of an open loop. The frequency should be slightly higher
than the highest frequency you want to use.
The resonant frequency of your loop will decrease after you add the tuning capacitor and connect the
feed!
Mount the tuning capacitor and connect both ends of the loop to its stators. Fix the coax feed and
solder its shield to the rotor of the tuning capacitor.
If you test the loop now, it should resonate slightly above the desired operating frequency. When I was
testing my 10/14 MHz antenna at this point, it resonated between 11 and 16 MHz.
Mount the coupling capacitor. Connect one end the coax feed core and the other one to either end of
the loop.
6. SETUP
When the antenna is mounted, connect it and test its resonant frequency on your receiver. Loaded
antenna will "drop" slightly mine changed its resonant range from 1116 MHz to approximately 1015
MHz over the full variation of the tuning capacitor.
When tuning the antenna, first find the best position of the tuning capacitor by listening. After you have
tuned a relatively sharp peak, tune the coupling capacitor (if you have a variable one) for best possible
SWR. My antenna has 1:1 SWR on 10 MHz band without an additional ATU. (In fact the loop itself with
all the tuning and coupling circuits is an excellent ATU).
7. BANDWIDTH
My antenna has SWR 1:1 almost all over 10 MHz band. The SWR is getting slightly worse near band
boundaries, but it is just enough to see the meter taking a very moderate move.
I didn't test 14 MHz because of a missing 2nd coupling capacitor. If it worked on 14 MHz the same way,
you should be able to cover the whole CW subband with SWR 1:1 and most of the band with SWR
better than 1:2 if not 1:1.5
I have received some questions regarding calculation, modification for lower bands, radiation pattern,
etc. I am convinced that you can get the best answers from competent people who maintain the above
mentioned pages. I actually work in a bank and have no measuring equipment at work or at home :) In
fact, the above design was a very lucky experiment.
9. Feedback
Please let me know if you try to build this antenna, if you want to make any comments. I am very
interested what you think about this article.
In fact, writing this article took me at least three times longer than the time to build the flyswat. So at
least three of you should make some use of it, don't you think so?
73 de Jindra, OK1FOU
http://www.qsl.net/ok1fou/e_main.htm
Introduction
Always test newly acquired tubes and high voltage components with a tester before use. A simple
Ohmmeter test is not enough.
The basic idea of a breakdown voltage tester is to apply current limited high voltage to an insulator, and
raise the voltage until the desired voltage test level is reached, or until a small amount (1 to 2 micro
Amps) of leakage current flows. If the insulation does break down, the test instrument limits the current
flow, and the process can be stopped without destroying the item under test.
Some commercial test units have an automatic circuit that will cease application of the high voltage
when a selected leakage current occurs. In a GoNo Go production test environment, this helps
relatively untrained operators decide if a component is good or bad. Typically a relay circuit will trip, a
loud buzzer will sound, and the test is stopped. A front panel reset button starts everything over.
Some commercial units have a "burn" mode. This allows a current limited arc to continue. This is helpful
to physically determine where a fault is located. For amateur use, the automatic trip circuitry may be
eliminated. Instead, the test equipment operator will observe the leakage measurement and then turn
the voltage down and stop the test if breakdown happens. Also, a manual "burn" mode is possible by
simply allowing the current limited arc to continue while checking for the location of the fault.
Circuit Description
A voltage level of about 8 to 10kV is useful for testing many amateur radio components. The circuit
schematic shows two alternative methods to get a variable high voltage source. One method uses a
common fuel oil furnace ignition transformer. This transformer has a 120 Volt AC primary, and a 10kV
secondary, with the case being the transformer secondary center tap. This means that the transformer
case is electrified with 5kV AC, and must be insulated from the mounting base. Also, take care to not
come into contact with this case during operation of this instrument. A simple Plexiglas shield will keep
you at a safe distance. The high voltage tester I have uses one of these transformers. It was originally a
flea market find at a bargain price. Sure, it was rusty, and needed some paint, but the internal voltage
windings were intact. The fuel oil ignition type transformer will generate 10kV DC at the tester output
electrode. A common neon sign transformer will also work.
A small adjustable AC primary transformer called a variac is used to vary the input voltage to the high
voltage transformer. I used a small panel mounted type of variac on my tester. Since these are
expensive if purchased new, you may not want to dedicate an individual variac to this test instrument. In
this case, consider using an external variac you may already have in your workshop as a variable
voltage control.
The other method of generating the variable high voltage source uses a microwave oven transformer.
This transformer was obtained from a bad microwave oven. The output of this transformer is about
2100Volts AC, with a 120Volt AC primary. Nearly any microwave oven transformer will do, even the
ones from the relatively small ovens are satisfactory. Old ovens may have a useful diode too. A voltage
quadrupler shown in the circuit diagram boosts the voltage up to about the 8kV range.
Note that when using the microwave oven transformer circuit, the light bulb may glow much more
brightly as the primary voltage approaches 120Volts AC. This varies with each transformer, and is
caused by a relatively high saturating current. This is typical of the microwave oven transformer.2 If you
are using this type of transformer, and your measured high voltage output is reduced to less than 8 kV
by the limiting action of the light bulb, just increase the light bulb wattage to about 150 to 200 Watts.
Otherwise, a light bulb rating of about 125Watts in the fuel oil ignition transformer circuit works well.
Smaller wattage light bulbs will reduce the maximum high voltage output of this tester. Do not eliminate
the light bulb from the circuit. It doesn't cost much and is an important circuit protector.
Since the panel meters are in contact with high voltage, make sure to use an insulating front panel
material. I chose common Plexiglas since it was available at a local hardware store, and they would
also cut it to size for me. I used a 6inch by 12inch piece for the front panel. Plexiglas is also available
in various colors, but I chose the basic clear variety since I can see through it to locate any evidence of
corona points. The base plate for this tester is also recommended to be an insulator. A good choice
here is wood. My tester has a 12inch by 16inch painted plywood base 1/2inch thick. The paint would
conduct slightly and give leakage current indications until it became very dry.
Components on the Plexiglas front panel include the small variac, two 50microAmp panel meters, and
two phone plug jacks for the electrodes. Two right angle metal braces mounted on the base plate
support the Plexiglas front panel. The high voltage transformer, light bulb current limiter, and a small
circuit board occupy the main plywood base support. The circuit board is a small piece of plain
perforated fiberglass material, and is supported by four 1/2inch tall ceramic standoff insulators. The
various components on the circuit board are simply wired in breadboard point to point style.
An insulating clear Plexiglas cover that surrounds the tester is used to protect the operator from
accidental contact with internal circuitry. The dielectric strength of Plexiglas is 30 kV/mm. A 1/8inch
thickness will then have a dielectric strength of about 95kV. With the voltages used in this circuit, this
gives an insulating safety factor of about ten. The external Plexiglas shroud is assembled with 1/2inch
aluminum angle obtained from a hardware store. Since the front panel meters may not provide
adequate insulation, a single clear Plexiglas sheet is mounted in front of both meters. This protects
against meter failure and possible accidental voltage contact. The meters used in this tester required a
3.5inch by 5inch protective front sheet held to the front panel by two 1/2inch standoffs.
Two high value high voltage resistors are required for this circuit; 50 MegOhm and 200 MegOhm.
Sometimes these can be found at surplus outlets or on Ebay.
Since high voltages are involved, it's necessary to build this tester with plenty of open space between
components and wiring. Try for at least a halfinch spacing. The use of test prod or high voltage wire
rated to at least 10 kV is recommended. Also, the solder joints need to be as smooth as you can get
without sharp points. Breakdown voltage is also a function of geometry. These points will encourage
corona and will cause slight leakage current indications with no component hooked up for testing.1 With
no component hooked up, just turn the voltage up until you start to get a leakage current indication.
Then turn the room lights off. In the darkened room, CAREFULLY look and listen for the small telltale
blue corona points in your wiring. Isolate the trouble spots and then correct the wiring connections as
necessary.
It may be impossible to remove all stray leakage current indications. To compensate for this, just turn
the voltage up to a desired test voltage value, and then note the leakage current indication on the panel
meter. This number will become your background leakage current. This number will be subtracted from
a leakage current reading taken with an actual component under test. For example, if you have a
background of 10 micro Amps, and a component measures 35 micro Amps, your real leakage is 25
micro Amps. Stray leakage current readings become more of a problem as the test voltage is increased.
Testing Components
Before you start testing, remind yourself what you're doing. THINK and LOOK before you touch any
part of this tester. All components should be tested on an insulated table. Hook up the component, plug
the tester in, increase the voltage to make your test, drop the voltage to zero, and then unplug the
tester. Allow plenty of time for the filter capacitors to discharge before removing the component under
test. While the current of this tester is limited to about 200microAmps, a 10kV jolt is decidedly
unpleasant. It helps to use relatively small filter capacitors in this test instrument. The .001 uF
capacitors will discharge quickly in a few seconds when the voltage is turned off. If you use relatively
large capacitors, like .1 uF or so, the discharge time is much longer. This means that even though the
instrument is turned off, touching the output electrode may still shock you. Use the output voltage meter
as a guide for how long the filter capacitors have a charge remaining. Remember, the output meter can
also fail, so don't depend on it entirely! If in doubt, use a shorting connection across the output
electrodes to safely discharge any remaining voltage stored in the filter capacitors.
Diodes: to test PIV values for high voltage diodes apply reverse bias voltage (hook positive terminal to
diode cathode, negative terminal to diode anode) until a small leakage current of one to two micro
Amps is detected, then stop the test. The point at which current just starts to flow is the PIV value of the
diode. Continuing beyond this point may damage the component. It is also possible to test relatively low
voltage diodes in the range of 0 to 800 Volts or so. Since the front panel voltage meter has limited
resolution, you may carefully use your digital multimeter as a voltage indicator. Many low cost meters
have a maximum voltage rating of 1 kV or less. It is easy to exceed this value with the tester front panel
control. The voice of experience says that if you apply excessive voltage to a multimeter and then hear
a small "snap" sound from inside the meter case, your meter will probably require repair. Be careful.
Adjust the high voltage until leakage current just starts, and then stop the test. These test methods will
also apply to PNP transistors by changing polarities.
Air dielectric capacitors: this type of capacitor is easy to test. Just hook up the voltage terminals from
the tester to the capacitor under test. Slowly bring the voltage up until your test voltage occurs or until
you hear a slight snap or crack, or see a small blue arc appear. Note the voltage, and immediately drop
the voltage back to lower levels. Other components with air dielectric may be tested in this same
manner. If you can't see or hear an arc, just watch the output leakage current meter on the high voltage
tester. A rapid rise in leakage current is a sure sign of voltage breakdown on the component under test.
Vacuum capacitors: these types of capacitors test in a similar manner to the air dielectric types.
However, when these components arc across inside, you will hear a small metallic "clink" sound. Just
adjust the voltage until you are at your desired voltage range or until you hear a "clink" (whichever
happens first), then back the test voltage off.
Test vacuum capacitors with the concentric plates fully meshed. I have purchased ham fest vacuum
variables that tested fine with the plates partially out, but that failed with the plates more completely
meshed. If you are looking for high voltage components, consider taking this tester along with you to
the flea market, but leave it in your vehicle. If you find some interesting capacitors, retrieve your tester
and perform the tests. Using this tester in this way will pay for itself very quickly by eliminating the
purchase of defective components. Vacuum capacitors tend to be expensive. Why pay for a dud? This
tester will also identify and sort out bad parts that you are going to sell.
Vacuum relays: test between normally open terminals until your test voltage is reached, the audible
"clink" is heard, or a rise in leakage current is indicated.
High voltage bypass and coupling capacitors: these test by advancing voltage to the point where
current starts to flow, note the test voltage, and then reduce voltage.
Vacuum tubes: Vacuum tubes are checked out of circuit. Hook up the tester electrodes to the two
terminals you want to test on the tube. On triode vacuum tubes, I typically test the anode to grid
breakdown voltage. I usually apply twice the tube's rated DC plate voltage and observe the leakage
current reading. Comparing values from known good tubes is very helpful. On tetrodes or other tubes
with more elements, just make several tests using the various tube terminals.
Russian GS35B, GS31B Anode to grid leakage current at about 4 kV = 6 micro Amps
Other tube types (4CX250B, 4CX800A) show similar numbers.
Significantly higher leakage current indicates a shorted tube. One high voltage short was only noticed
when the tube was warm. This tube checked well when cold, but failed short after applying filament
power for several minutes. When hooking up tubes outside of the normal amplifier, don't forget to
provide adequate tube cooling air when running filament voltage only.
To test an AC rated component with this tester, just use this formula: AC voltage times 1.414 to get the
effective DC voltage rating. For example, a 2 kV AC capacitor would require 2.8 kV DC to test.
73's K8CU
Notes
1. "Dielectric Breakdown and Arcing", ARRL Handbook, 1995, pg 10.14
2. Randy Henderson, WI5W,"Build a HighVoltage Power Supply at Low Cost" QEX, Jan/Feb 1998 Pg.
4751.
3. Texas Instruments, Inc. "The Power Semiconductor Data Book for Design Engineers", First Edition.
pg 130
4.Visit Richard Measures, AG6K's technical web site for additional design data on HV testers.
What have Tom, Dick and Harry, evening meals, toothpicks, breadcrumbs, ‘wigglewobble’, chimneys, a
‘twohand dance’, a ‘perfect storm’, ‘scavenger hunting’, moaning and even beauty contests to do with
an amateurbuilt radio receiver, a ‘WOW’ factor and a ‘crazy old coot’ called ‘Cros’? – the answer can
be found by reading Recollections of a Radio Receiver… by Jay Helms, W6HHT. The book covers
(almost) everything you would ever want to know about the ‘HBR’ series of amateur band receivers first
conceived by Ted Crosby, W6TC (SK) in the mid1950’s.
The book is divided into three parts: the first contains the major text, the second a series of HBR
specific references (reproduced in the book) and the third containing more general technical references
pertaining to receiver design. Part 1 is preceded by notes on using the ebook format and a Prologue
that provides a brief introduction to the book’s subject, a lexicon of terminology and index of QST
articles on the HBR. Chapter 1 opens the story with an introduction to the men who made the ‘HBR
adventure’ happen, the reasons why it did, and the design concept of the receiver. Chapter 2 picks up
on this concept, defining the design objective in four ‘rules’ and then moving onto the set’s
specifications and the expectations of
those constructing the receiver. An
interesting reference presented here is
part of an RSGB booklet on the
contemporaneous GRB Thornley
(G2DAF) homebrew receiver design
originating in the UK, together with
comments on the different
methodologies of the two designers.
Chapter 3 is the start of the real
technical ‘meat’ – here each of the
HBR models is described in a series of
‘thumbnails’ along with the associated
schematics and comments on
differences between them, as well as
details of some additional circuitry,
such as slot and notch filters.
However, the real indepth discussion on the HBR circuitry and its evolutionary path from 1956 through
to 1969 is dealt with in Chapter 4. Here, the regenerative frontend is highlighted, followed by the
various circuit elements – mixer stages, IF stages, marker oscillators, AGC, filters, detectors, audio and
power supply, concluding in a ‘things not to do’ section. The allimportant plugin coils are given the
entirety of Chapter 5 (over 70 pages), which is illustrated by photographs and diagrams. Achieving
receiver stability (‘staying put’ in 1950’s radio jargon) was one of the holy grails of receiver construction
in a world without lowcost synthesisers and digital electronics, and Chapter 6 is devoted entirely to this
subject. Here you will find discussion on various factors that may affect receiver stability, from power
supply issues through mechanical stability, circuit design, components, and thermal effects, including
some very good discussion on the use of temperature compensation capacitors, and methods for
testing receiver stability. For anyone constructing a receiver from scratch, alignment is one of those
things that can be a daunting prospect.
Part 2 includes a chapter on Builders Notes for the HBR14, HBR16, HBR11 and HBR13C, plus many
other technical tidbits, notes on the author’s ‘HBRXX’ receiver and details of the popular Eddystone 898
dial mechanism. Part 3 comprises a compendium of ARRL Handbook extracts, information on
inductors, including the Meissner ‘Radio Coils and Circuit Applications’ instruction manual, and even
cover and spine inserts if you decide to print the book (or sections of).
My only suggestion as to how this book could have been improved would be that although the text is
extremely detailed, there are many times when a diagram or photo would have helped enormously in
visualizing what is being described – especially if you do not happen to have an HBR sitting beside you.
However, although this addition would enhance the readability of certain parts of the text, their absence
does not detract from the overall value of the material presented.
JD1/O, OGASAWARA
OPDX was informed by Harry/JG7PSJ that Makoto/JI5RPT and he will once again be active from
Chichijima Island (AS031) between Sunday, December 27th, and Friday, January 1st (2010). Their
callsigns will be JD1BLY (JI5RPT) and JD1BMH(JG7PSJ). Activity will be on all bands 16010 meters
using CW, SSB and RTTY. QSL via the Bureau to the JD1 callsigns or direct to their home callsigns.
Web pages at: http://www.ji5rpt.com/jd1 http://sapphire.es.tohoku.ac.jp/jd1bmh
ST26, SUDAN
Look for the special callsign ST26ASC to be used between January 2228th (2010). This activity
coincides with the 26th Arab Scouts Conference from Khartoum, Sudan. QSL Manager will be ST2M.
TJ, CAMEROON
Lionel, F5PSA, currently active as TJ3SL, will be here until around December 15th. His activity has
been sporadic, but he is trying to be active daily, propagation permitting. Operations have been mainly
20 and 17 meters usually between 09301700z. QSL via F5PSA.
V3, BELIZE
Wil, PA0WWV, will be active as V31WV from Sarteneja (northern Belize) between now and December
20th. Activity will be on CW and SSB. QSL direct only with 2 USDs plus SAE (NO IRCs).
VP2M, MONTSERRAT
Mike, W1USN, will once again be active as VP2MPR between February 28th and March 13th (2010).
Mike will work mainly SSB and PSK31. Bob, AA1M, will also return to Montserrat and will operate
mostly CW as VP2MPL between March 611th. QSL both operators via their home callsigns.
IOTAfrequencies
CW: 28040, 24920, 21040, 18098, 14040, 10115, 7030 and 3530.
SSB: 28560, 28460, 24950, 21260, 18128, 14260,
7055 and 3755.
The frequencies are NOT exclusive to IOTA!
IOTA net Saturdays at 1300z on 14260 and
Sundays at 1300z on 21260!
The duplex
Introduction
radiotelephone set
(a) Other Duplex systems
up ready for use
The great problem of duplex radiotelephony is to prevent the sensitive receiver from being swamped by the local
transmitter. Apart from the obvious methods of spacing the receiving apparatus and the transmitting apparatus as
far apart as possible, and of using very different wavelengths for the two directions of communication, it appears
that two solutions have been put forward. The first is attributed to C. E. Franklin.1 In this method the local
transmitter is made to act as the oscillator of a superheterodyne receiver, the supersonic beat frequency between
this local oscillation and the received signal being then amplified and detected in the usual way. In the second
method each apparatus is made alternately transmitter and receiver at a supersonic frequency. The receiver may
then employ this interrupted oscillation for obtaining superregenerative amplification. This principle is adopted in
the system to be described.
The idea of using a superregenerative receiver for simultaneous transmission and reception seems to have been
put forward first in May, 1928, by G. A. Beauvais.2 Later in the same year a patent was taken out by Lorenz
A.G.,3 and in 1931 a similar system was patented by the Marconi Company.4 These early systems appear not to
have been ideal. In the Lorenz system there seems to have been difficulty in maintaining synchronism between the
quench oscillators at the two sets. From our experiments we expect the Marconi system was found to be liable to
distortion and background noise.
The apparatus consists essentially of a superregenerative receiver employing a relatively powerful radio
frequency oscillator quenched at a supersonic frequency by a separate oscillator. The two sets in communication
are exactly similar, and the quench frequencies are synchronised. With a suitable circuit it is found that the two
quench frequencies lock to one another in a remarkably stable manner. For example, a signal produced by
radiating a quenched oscillation of ⅛ watt average power on 3 metres wavelength from a λ/2 aerial is sufficiently
strong when received on a λ/2 aerial at a distance of 25 miles, to lock the quench frequency of a similar oscillator
with sufficient stability for practical purposes.
When the relative phase of the two synchronised quench oscillations is suitably adjusted, telephonic
communication may be established by a very slight modulation of the quench oscillator.
Before discussing the detailed working of this system, it seems advisable to review briefly the theory of the super
regenerative receiver, 5, 6, 7, as no very satisfactory account appears to have been published yet in English.
The Theory of the SuperRegenerative Receiver
The superregenerative receiver consists essentially of a radiofrequency oscillator, the oscillation of which is
periodically interrupted or quenched at some highaudible or supersonic frequency. The oscillation is then
allowed to build up again, and it is in this buildingup process that the amplification occurs.
Fig. 1. —Diagram
to illustrate the
theory of the
Super
regenerative
receiver.
In one cycle of this quenching process three consecutive states may be recognised, which may conveniently be
termed the “quenched," "negatively damped" (or sensitive), and "oscillating" phases. In the "quenched" phase the
oscillation dies to zero or more strictly to a residual E.M.F. in the circuit which is only that due to thermal
agitation, shot effect, etc., and the received signal. This quenched phase is followed by the relatively short
"sensitive" phase, in which an oscillation builds up increasing exponentially with time, and the amplitude may
therefore be written as A0ekt. A0 therefore comprises the random agitation E.M.F. together with the E.M.F.
produced by the received signal. When in course of time ekt has reached the value 10 or 100, the received signal is
such a small part of the oscillation that any modulation of the received signal would be practically without effect
on the increasing oscillation, so we may say that we have passed out of the sensitive phase into the oscillating
phase. But it is important to note that the oscillation amplitude is still at any time proportional to A0, the small
received signal and agitation E.M.F. A limit is however reached when A0ekt is the maximum oscillation which the
valve will maintain, Amax say. Clearly the greater A0 the sooner this limit is reached and hence the oscillation
persists at the maximum for a longer time, assuming that it is cut off at a definite phase of the quench cycle
corresponding to the onset of the quenched phase. This is illustrated in Fig. 1. It should be noted that, if the
function A0ekt is plotted against time for different values of A0, all the curves appear of the same shape but
displaced on the time scale. The same proportional change of A0 produces the same displacement on the timescale
whatever the absolute value of A0.
The Circuit
The circuit of the most successful apparatus used is shown in Fig. 3. The essentials are:
(1) An ultrashortwave oscillator quenched at a supersonic frequency. This in addition to providing the
transmitted oscillation also acts as a superregenerative receiver. It therefore has a telephone transformer in the
anode circuit and, also, in order to obtain a reasonably loud audiofrequency output, the grid circuit includes a
resistance of about 50,000 ohms. The automatic volume control action characteristic of this type of receiver makes
any additional volume control practically unnecessary.
(2) A speechmodulated supersonic quench oscillator. If the quench oscillation is fed to the grid circuit of the radio
frequency oscillator, the quench oscillator may be of lower power.
Performance
The performance of the actual sets may be summarised as follows. Duplex telephony with firstclass quality and
silent background is obtainable with quite simple tuning adjustments up to a distance of about ¼ mile over
reasonably open flat ground. Up to this distance a quench frequency of 50 to 60 kc/s. may be used, and
communication may be maintained with one set on a moving car without any necessity for altering the
adjustment.
At greater distances the quench tuning adjustment depends on the distance between the sets; and as the signal
strength falls off quality becomes marred by increasing background hiss. This is, however, no worse than is
observed with an ordinarily modulated transmitter of the same power. At the extreme limit of range, where it
might be just possible to catch familiar phrases using a straight transmitter, it is found with the modulated quench
system that the quench locking becomes difficult to maintainThe range obtainable with these sets depends very
markedly on the sites chosen
Conclusion
We have been mainly concerned with the practical aspects of communication on ultrashortwaves with portable
sets. Nevertheless, it is hoped that this account may be of interest to those concerned with other aspects, for
example the synchronisation of frequencies by radio, and the attainment of true duplex radiotelephony. It may be
that the simplicity of the system for working over a fixed range is of more account than its portability. In common
with other portable ultrashortwave apparatus, it is at its best when used for temporary communication in
mountainous districts. It seems probable that it will be many years before mutual interference on ultrashortwaves
becomes a practical problem in the remoter districts.
http://www.holmea.demon.co.uk/Duplex/Duplex.htm