632 Cosmetics Additives

REWO: REWOTERIC Amphoteric Surfactants:

Overview of REWO Amphoterics:
Product:
Glycine Derivatives:
REWOTERIC AM 2L:
N-lauric acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethylglycinate
REWOTERIC AM 2C NM:
N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxy-ethylglycinate
Salt-free amphoteric tensides:
REWOTERIC AM KSF4O:
N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxy-ethylaminoprop-
ionate
Anionic mixtures:
REWOTERIC AM CA:
Mixture of N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethyl
glycinate and sodium lauryl ether sulphate
REWOTERIC AM G30:
Mixture of N-lauric fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethyl-
glycinate and sodium lauryl sulphate
Betaine :
REWOTERIC AM DML:
N-lauryl-N,N-dimethyl-N-carboxymethyl ammonium betaine
REWOTERIC AM B13:
N-Coconut fatty acid amidopropyl-N,N-dimethyl-N-carboxymethyl
ammonium betaine
REWOTERIC AM R40:
N-ricinoleic fatty acid amido-propyl-N,N-dimethyl-N-carboxy-
methyl ammonium betaine
REWOTERIC AM TEG:
N-alkyl-N,N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-carboxymethyl-ammonium
betaine

Sulphobetaines:
REWOTERIC AM CAS:
N(N-coconut fatty acid amidopropyl)N,N-dimethyl-ammonium-
N-(2-hydroxy-propyl) sulphonate
 Rewo 633

REWO: REWOTERIC Amphoteric Surfactants(C0ntinued):

- -
Product:
REWOTERIC AM 2L:
Appearance: low-viscosity liquid
concentration % : 50
Minimum active content %: 3 9
Gardner colour: max. 5
pH value: 8 . 0 - 8 . 5
NaCl content %: 9 - 1 0

REWOTERIC AM 2C NM:
Appearance: low viscosity liquid
concentration %: 50
Minimum active content %: 3 9
Gardner colour: max. 5
pH value: 8.0-8.6
NaCl content %: 9 - 1 0

REWOTERIC AM KSF 4 0 :
Appearance: clear liquid
concentration %: 4 0
Minimum active content %: 40
Gardner colour: max. 5
pH value: 9 - 1 0
NaCl Content %: max. 0,05

REWOTERIC AM CA:
Appearance: viscous liquid
concentration % : 3 0
Minimum active content %: 2 5
Gardner color: max. 3
pH value: 8.0-8.5
NaCl content %: max. 4

REWOTERIC AM G30:
Appearance: clear liquid
concentration %: min. 4 7
Minimum active content %: ca. 38
Gardner colour: ca. 4
pH value: 7.5-8.5
NaCl content %: 6 . 5 - 7 . 4
REWOTERIC AM DML:
Appearance: clear liquid
concentration %: 4 0
Minimum active content %: 31
Gardner color: max. 1
pH value: 7-8
NaCl content %: max. 8
634 Cosmetics Additives

REWO: REWOTERIC Amphoteric Surfactants(Continued):

Product:
REWOTERIC AM B 13:
Appearance: viscous liquid
concentration %: 35
Minimum active content %: 30
Gardner colour: ca. 2
pH value: 5-6
NaCl content %: ca. 5

REWOTERIC AM R40:
Appearance: viscous liquid
concentration %: 40
Minimum active content %: 34
Gardner colour: max. 3
pH value: 5 . 5 - 6 . 0
NaCl Content %: ca. 5

REWOTERIC AM TEG:
Appearance: viscous liquid
concentration %: 40
Minimum active content %: 3 5
Gardner colour: max. 6
pH value: 4.5-5.5
NaCl content %: ca. 5

REWOTERIC AM CAS:
Appearance: clear liquid
concentration %: 50
Minimum active content %: 43
Gardner colour: max. 4
pH value: 7-8
NaCl content %: ca. 7
 Rheox, Inc. 635

RHEOX, INC.: BENTONE Organophilic Clay Rheological Additives:

Outstanding rheological properties can be developed in solvent
or oil based systems by using BENTONE organoclay rheological
additives. BENTONE additives are the reaction products of an
organic quaternary amine with either hectorite or bentonite
clay. This treatment makes them capable of swelling and gelling
organic systems. Chemically, BENTONE rheological additives are
inert and do not interact with most organic systems. BENTONE
additives can be used to gel various hydrocarbon and natural
oils, solvents and synthetic liquids.

Advantages:
- Produces reproducible thixotropic viscosity
- Suspends pigments, pearl essence and active ingredients
- Controls application, reduces dripping and running
- Imparts good leveling
- Reduces syneresis
- Imparts heat stability, reducing high temperature running
and dripping
- Improves emulsion stability

BENTONE 2 7 Rheological Additive:

CTFA: Stearalkonium Hectorite
Application: Intermediate to high polarity organic systems
such as esters and triglycerides. For nail lacquers, anti-
perspirants and lip products.
Characteristics: Low iron content
Light in color

BENTONE 38 Rheological Additive:

CTFA: Quaternium-18 Hectorite
Application: Low to intermediate polarity organic systems
such as silicones and mineral oil. For antiperspirants, creams,
lotions, eye products and suntan products.
Characteristics: Low iron content
Light in color

BENTONE 34 Rheological Additive:

CTFA: Quaternium-18 Bentonite
Application: Low to intermediate polarity organic systems
such as silicones and mineral o i l . For antiperspirants, creams
and lotions.
Characteristics: Higher iron
Darker in color
636 Cosmetics Additives

RHEOX, INC.: BENTONE GEL Rheological Additives:

Fully dispersed and activated BENTONE organophilic clays
are available in the form of smooth, homogeneous mastergels
in common oils and organic solvents.
Advantages:
- the correct BENTONE additive is chosen for the solvent
- the optimum level of the correct polar activator is
incorporated
- the highest yield is obtained, due to the full development
of the rheological properties
BENTONE GEL MI0 rheological additive:
CTFA: Mineral Oil & Quaternium-18 Hectorite & Propylene
Carbonate
Applications: Hair grooming preparations, creams, lotions,
lip products, suntan products
BENTONE GEL M I 0 A-40 rheological additive:
CTFA: Mineral Oil & Quaternium-18 Hectorite & SDA 40
Applications: Creams, lotions, hair grooming products
BENTONE GEL I P M rheological additive:
CTFA: Isopropyl Myristate & Stearallconium Hectorite &
Propylene Carbonate
Applications: Antiperspirants, creams, lotions
BENTONE GEL CAO rheological additive:
CTFA: Castor Oil & Stearalkonium Hectorite & Propylene
Carbonate
Applications: Lip products
BENTONE GEL LO1 rheological additive:
CTFA: Lanolin Oil & Isopropyl Palmitate & Stearalkonium
Hectorite & Propylene Carbonate & Propyl Paraben
Applications: Lip products, creams, lotions
BENTONE GEL SS71 rheological additive:
CTFA: Petroleum Distillate & Quaternium-18 Hectorite &
Propylene Carbonate
Applications: Eye products
BENTONE GEL VS-5 rheological additive:
CTFA: Cyclomethicone & Quaternium-18 Hectorite & SDA 40
Applications: Antiperspirants, eye products, creams,
lotions
Special BENTONE mastergels can be made to meet a formulator's
or manufacturer's individual requirements.
 Rheox, lnc. 637

RHEOX, INC.: Hydrophilic Clay Rheological Additives:

NL's thickeners for water based products are three purified
hectorite clays: BENTONE EW, BENTONE LT and MACALOID. In a wide
variety of water based creams, lotions, shampoos, makeup and
other cosmetics, the hydrophilic clays efficiently provide
thixotropic viscosity and pigment suspension. They contribute
to emulsion stability and smooth product application.
Hectorite thickeners are preferred over bentonites for their
higher efficiency, whiter color and lower iron content. They
impart an excellent texture, without the gummy or stringy
consistency often obtained with organic gums.
Advantages:
- High efficiency
- Thixotropic
- Suspend pigments and active ingredients
- Effective over wide pH range
- Improve oil-in-water emulsion stability
- Synergistic viscosity build with organic gums
- Do not require neutralization
- White color
- Low iron content
- No quartz or cristobalite
BENTONE EW rheological additive:
CTFA: Hectorite
Applications: Creams & lotions, antidandruff shampoo,
suntan products, shaving preparations, and hair conditioners
Characteristics: A highly beneficiated hectorite clay.
Gives high viscosity. Works in a broad pH range: 5 - 1 1 .

BENTONE LT rheological additive:

CTFA: Hectorite & Hydroxyethylcellulose
Application: Eye products, creams & lotions, powdered
hair bleach, makeup
Characteristics: A modified hectorite clay. Gives the
highest viscosity. Effective in a pH range: 6-10

MACALOID rheological additive:

CTFA: Hectorite
Application: Antidandruff shampoo, lotions, shaving cream,
peroxide cream, antiperspirants
Characteristics: A beneficiated hectorite clay. Gives
excellent suspension at moderate viscosities. Efficient in the
broadest pH range: 4.5-12
638 Cosmetics Additives

RHEOX, INC.: THIXCIN R Rheological Additive:

When the highest degree of thixotropic flow in aliphatic
systems is desired, THIXCIN R is the rheological additive to
choose. In addition to the usual rheological control functions,
it gives water repellancy, acts as a stiffening agent for
lipsticks and ointments and helps stabilize emulsions. If
high temperature resistance is needed, BENTONE additives are
preferred.
THIXCIN R is a castor oil derivative. It requires heat
(95-130F/35-55C) and high shear for activation.
Advantages:
- Very efficient viscosity build
- Greatest thixotropic body
- Superior film build at moderate temperatures
- Excellent leveling
- Imparts water repellency
- Controls liquid penetration
- Adds stiffening to stick products
- Controls suspension of pigments
THIXCIN R rheological additive:
CTFA: Trihydroxystearin
Application: Aliphatic solvent systems such as mineral
oils and waxes, i.e., lipsticks, ointments, creams and
lotions
Not suitable for aromatic and oxygenated solvents.
Characteristics: Highest thixotropy, superior leveling
and film build, waterproofs
 Rhone Poulenc 639

RHONE POULENC: ALIPAL CO HF series anionics:

Sodium or ammonium salts of sulfated alkylphenoxypoly
(ethyleneoxy) ethanol.
M = NH4+ or Na+
CTFA name: Ammonium Nonoxynol-4 Sulfate
Physical form and description:
Clear, viscous liquids differing primarily in their degree
of ethoxylation and activity. (ALIPAL CO-436 contains 12-16%
ethanol).
Neutral pH.
Mild aromatic or alcohol odor.
HF-433 is a non-alcohol version of CO-436.
Properties:
High foaming detergents with excellent wetting, dispersing
and emulsifying properties.
Readily soluble in cold or hot water, mildly acid or strongly
alkaline solutions.
Stable to hard water, alkali and most metal ions.
Foaming properties retained in presence of substantial levels
of emollients.
Mild, non-irritating to skin, particularly HF-433. Good lime-
soap dispersion.
Uses :
Detergents in:
hand and face cleansing creams
liquid emulsion germicidal skin cleaners
mild shampoos and bubble baths (HF-433)
scrub soaps.
640 Cosmetics Additives

RHONE POULENC: EMULPHOR EL, ON series nonionics:

Polyoxyethylated vegetable oils and fatty alcohols
EMULPHOR EL-620:
CTFA name: PEG-30 Castor Oil
EL-719:
CTFA name: PEG-40 Castor Oil
ON-870:
CTFA name: Oleth-20
Physical form and description:
Vary from viscous liquids to waxes, depending on the n rat 0
and the oil or alcohol base.
Generally 100% active (EMULPHOR ON-877 is 70% aqueous sol-
ution).
Pronerties:
Predominantly hydrophilic, water soluble emulsifiers, dis-
persants and solubilizers. Also soluble in a number of organic
solvents. Stable to acids, alkalis and hard water.
Low oral toxicity, non-irritant to human skin.
Uses :
Excellent emulsifiers for oils and waxes in the preparation
of creams, lotions, hair grooming aids, etc. (ON-870/EL-719).
Solubilizers for essential oils and perfumes (ON-870).
Non-greasy emollients for men's hair grooming aids (ON-8701
EL-71 9).
Pigment dispersants for lipstick, makeup. Emollients for
creams/lotions, hair grooming aids.
 Rhone Poulenc 641

RHONE POULENC: GAFAC series anionics:

Complex phosphate esters of nonionic surfactants of the
ethylene oxide adduct type.
Various CTFA names.
Physical form and description:
Comprehensive range of viscous liquid products, mostly in
the free acid form# and of 100% activity.
They vary in the hydrophobic base used (aliphatic or
aromatic) and the n ratio.
Colorless and odorless.
#GAFAC MC-470 Surfactant is the partial sodium salt.
Properties:
Excellent cosmetic emulsifiers and solubilizers, with good
emulsion spontaneity, stability and redispersibility in hard
water.
Emulsifying properties maintained over broad pH range.
Medium to high foaming, with no cloud point.
Broad compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, e.g.
amphoterics, cationic resins, etc.
Antistatic properties.
Low skin and eye irritation.
Contributes to improved wet-combability, softness and shine
(MC-470).
Uses :
Emulsifiers for cosmetic oil, creams and lotions (RM-510/
710, RE-870 + RD-510).
Components of conditioning shampoos (in combination with
amphoterics); especially MC-470.
642 Cosmetics Additives

RHONE POULENC: GAFAMIDE CDD 518 superamide:

Fatty acid dialkanolamide
CTFA name: Cocamide DEA
Physical form and description:
Viscous oily liquid
Very high amide content (typically at least 90%)
Low in free amine and free fatty acid (below 1 % )
Neutral or faint fatty odor.
Properties:
Highly purified, predominately nonionic detergent, offering
excellent wetting, emulsifiying and soil-suspending properties.
Pronounced synergistic foam boosting and stabilization when
added to nonionic/anionic surfactant systems.
Thickening effect makes it an excellent viscosity builder.
Super-fatting characteristics, preventing excessive de-
greasing of the skin.
Fully biodegradable.
Uses :
Foam booster, stabilizer and viscosity modifier in:
Shampoos.
Bubble baths.
Waterless hand cleaners.
Skin protective agent in:
Hand cleaner pastes and gels.
Liquid dishwashing compounds.
Laundry detergents.
Toilet soaps.
 Rhone Poulenc 643

RHONE POULENC: IGEPAL CO, CAI DM series nonionics:

Ethoxylated alkylphenols
IGEPAL CO's:
CTFA name: Nonoxynol Series
IGEPAL CA's:
CTFA name: Octoxynol Series
IGEPAL DM's:
CTFA name: Nonyl Nonoxynol Series
Physical form and description:
Vary from slightly viscous oils (n=1.5 to 1 5 ) to low melting
waxes (n=20 to 100).
All the products are anhydrous (100% active) and cover the
range of HLB values from 4.8 to 19.0. Many of the waxes are also
available as 70% active aqueous solutions.
Properties:
Oil and/or water soluble detergents, emulsifiers and dispers-
ants.
Nonionic and non-electrolytic, stable to hydrolysis by acids
or alkalis. Compatible with anionic or cationic agents, and with
positively or negatively charged colloids.
Properties range from low foaming (n=4 to 8) to high foaming
(n=10 or 30).
Excellent lime-soap dispersants (n=9 to 100).
Uses:
Color dispersants in hair dyes (IGEPAL CO-430/630).
Emulsifiers for mineral oils, chlorinated hydrocarbons
(CO-430 to CO-530).
Water-soluble emulsifiers for vegetable and essential oils
and other fatty compounds (CO-710 to CO-880).
Components of soap-syndet toilet bars for hard water (DM-970).
644 Cosmetics Additives

RHONE POULENC: IGEPON A , T series anionics:

Sulfoalkyl amides (I) and esters (11).
IGEPON AC-78:
CTFA names: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
IGEPON T's:
CTFA names: Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate
IGEPON TC-42:
CTFA names: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Physical form and description:
White powder (high activity) or paste (low activity).
Very low salt content.
Neutral pH range.
Neutral or mild fatty odor.
Properties:
Outstanding detergency and wetting properties, coupled with
dispersing and suspending action.
High, stable foam.
Effective in hard water and concentrated electrolyte solutions
Resistant to hydrolysis.
Excellent lime-soap dispersancy.
Soap-like mildness, softening and lubricating effect on skin
and hair.
Readily biodegradable.
Uses :
Ideal base for detergent bars (IGEPON AC-78 Surfactant).
High-foaming shampoos with conditioning properties (AC-78/
TC-42).
Salt-free detergent in dentifrices (AC-78).
Mild detergent for bubble baths and liquid skin cleansers.
Dry powder shampoos (AC-78).
Deodorant soaps (AC-78)
Pet products (AC-78)
Fragrance bars (AC-78)
Skin treatment cleaning bars (AC-78)
Medicated bars (AC-78)
 Roche Chemical Division 645

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: Biotin:

Biotin is a member of the water-soluble, B-Complex vitamin
group. The term, water soluble is somewhat misleading, for its
solubility in water is very low (0.02%).
Physical-Chemical Properties:
Empirical Formula: C1 OH1 6N203S
Molecular Weight: 244.31
Melting Range: 229-232C
Specific Rotation @ 25C: +89 to +93
Assay: 97.5% (as is)
Heavy Metals: Max 0.001% (10 ppm)
Solubility:
- One gram dissolves in about 5000 ml. of water and about
1300 ml of ethyl alcohol (at 25C).
- Its solubility is greater in hot water and in dilute alkali.
- Biotin is insoluble in other common organic solvents.
Stability:
- Biotin, when pure, is stable to air and heat.
- Aqueous solutions of Biotin are quite stable in the pH
range of 5 to 8 at room temperature.
- Stability decreases outside of the 5-8 pH range, esp-
ecially if solutions are hot.
- Aqueous solutions are susceptible to mold growth.
Potential Uses in Cosmetics & Toiletries:
Biotin has been incorporated in a number of hair care and
skin products. Although Biotin deficiency symptoms are rarely
seen, because of the observed effects on the skin, it has
been referred to as a "skin factor".
It has also been postulated that Biotin might be involved
in blocking androgen receptor sites and thereby prevent the
alleged activity of d-hydrotestosterone causing alopecia
(baldness). However, no data is available showing that Biotin
can reverse alopecia or prevent its occurrence in humans,
either topically or systemically.
ROCHE Biotin Product Available for Topical Formulations:
Biotin:
CTFA Designation: Biotin
646 Cosmetics Additives

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: Citric Acid, USP, FCC:

Citric acid is a white, practically odorless, crystalline
product that has a strong acidic taste. It is found widely in
nature and occurs in numerous plants and fruits and in milk.
Relatively large amounts are found in lemons (3.6% of the juice)
and in rosehips ( 1 . 4 % ) .
Physical-Chemical Properties:
Empirical Formula: C8H807
Molecular Weight: 192.1 3
Assay: 99.5-100.5%
Water (Karl Fischer): 0.5% minimum
Residue on ignition: 0.05% maximum
Readily Carbonizable Substances: Meets USP/FCC Test
Oxalate: Meets USP/FCC Test
Heavy Metals: 10 ppm maximum
Sulfate: Meets USP Test
Arsenic: 3.0 ppm maximum
Solubility:
- Very soluble in water ( 1 gm dissolves in about 0 . 5 ml
water).
- Freely soluble in alcohol ( 1 gm dissolves in about 2
ml alcohol).
- Sparingly soluble in ether ( 1 gm dissolves in about
30 ml of ether).
Stability:
Citric acid anhydrous is slightly hydroscopic. Avoid
excessive exposure to heat and humidity to prevent caking.
FDA Status:
Citric acid is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for
multipurpose food uses and as a sequestrant.
Cosmetic Use:
- Adjustment of pH in hair, skin care and other cosmetic
products.
- Citric acid in combination with its salts acts as a
buffer.
- Citric acid and citrates can complex metal ions and
thus stabilize cosmetics.
ROCHE Citric Acid Products Available:
Citric Acid, USP, FCC:
Anhydrous, Fine Granular
CTFA Designatuion: Citric Acid
Citric Acid, USP, FCC:
Anhydrous, Granular
CTFA Designation: Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate, USP, FCC:
Dihydrate, Fine Granular
CTFA Designation: Sodium Citrate
 Roche Chemical Division 647

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: Panthenol (Provitamin B5):

Panthenol is the alcohol analog of the vitamin pantothenic
acid. It is a stable, biologically active form of this B-Complex
vitamin. Two forms are available for topical formulations:
a liquid, d-Panthenol, and a crystalline powder, dl-Panthenol.
Physical-Chemical Properties:
A. Dexpanthenol (USP Grade)
Empirical Formula: C9H19N04
Molecular Weight: 205.25
Appearance: Viscous liquid
Color: Maximum APHA 60
Solution i n Water: Clear and complete at 5%
Specific Rotation at 25C:t29.0 to +31.5 (dry basis)
Refractive Index at 20C: 1.4950 to 1.5020
Water Content: Maximum 1.0%
Residue on Ignition: Maximum 0.1%
Heavy Metals: Maximum 1 0 ppm
Aminopropanol: Maximum 0.6%
Assay: Minimum 98.0% (dry basis)
B. dl-Panthenol (Cosmetic Grade)
Empirical Formula: C9H19N04
Mclecular Weight: 205.25
Appearance: White to creamy white, crystalline powder
Odor : Characteris tic
Solution in water: Clear and complete at 10%; maximum APHA
200
Melting range: 64.5-69.OC (within 3 )
Residue on ignition: Maximum 0.1%
Heavy metals: Maximum 20 ppm
Aminopropanol: Maximum 0.2%
Assay: Minimum 98.5% (dry basis)
Solubility:
d-panthenol:
- Soluble in water and alcohol.
- Insoluble in fats and oils.
dl-Panthenol:
- Freely soluble in water, alcohol and propylene glycol.
- Soluble in chloroform and ether.
- Slightly soluble in glycerin.
- Insoluble in fats and oils.
Stability:
d-panthenol:
- Slightly hygroscopic.
- Stable to heat, but will racemize on prolonged heating.
- Aqueous topical formulations are stable in the pH range
of 4.0-7.0 (optimum pH is 6.0)
- Hydrolysis occurs at an increasing rate as the pH varies
from the optimum
dl-panthenol:
- Stable, but should be protected from extended exposure
to moisture.
- Its stability characteristics are similar to those of
d-panthenol
648 Cosmetics Additives

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: Panthenol (Provitamin B5)(Continued):

Role in Hair-Care Products:
- Provitamin B5 converts to Pantothenic Acid in hair and skin.
- Deep penetration into the hair shaft (Cortex).
- Long-Lasting moisture control, independent of the atmospher-
ic conditions.
- Prevention of over-drying of hair and scalp caused by blow-
dryers.
-
Reduces considerably (30-40%) the formation of split ends,
due to combing and brushing.
- Reduction of hair tangling by smoothing of the cuticle.
- Clean conditioning without build-up.
- Repairs damage caused by chemical and mechanical treatment
(perming, overprocessinq, combing, brushing and coloring).
- Slows doen the "aging process" (wear and tear of hair)
caused by over-shampooing, brushing, and combing (cuticle
damage, cortex weakening).
- Increases the tensile strength of hair (especially bene-
ficial to bleached hair).
- Imparts sheen and luster.
- Cumulative benefits--Pantheno1 absoprtion increases with
repeated use.
- Deposition in hair is dependent on hair types: higher
deposition in tinted and bleached hair, lower on virgin
hair.
Role in Skin Care Products:
- Quick, deep penetrating moisturizer (from within).
- Stimulates cellurar proliferation, and possibly aids in
tissue repair (exact mechanism is unknown).
- Promotes normal Keratinization.
- Recommended levels of panthenol in topical products: 1 - 5 %
- In experimental therapeutics:
- Claimed to promote wound healing in surgical, traumatic,
or thermally induced wounds.
- Used in treating atopic dermatitis, chronic contact
dermatitis, diaper rashes and certain types of itching.
- Claimed to act as an anti-inflammatory agent.
- Used in treating acute sunburns, and in promoting
pigment formation following tanning exposure.
ROCHE Panthenol Product Available for Topical Formulations:
d-Panthenol, liquid:
Regular Type
CTFA Designation: Panthenol
dl-Panthenol:
Cosmetic Grade, powder
CTFA Designation: Panthenol
dl-Panthenol, liquid(75%):
Cosmetic Grade
CTFA Designation: Panthenol
 Roche Chemical Division 649

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: ROCHE Vitamin A and Vitamin A with

Vitamin D3 Products Available for Topical Formulations:
Vitamin A Palmitate Type PIMOfBH:
Contains 1,000,000 I.U./gm with 5 mg each of BHA and BHT
per 1,000,000 units as an antixoidant.
CTFA Designation: Retinyl Palmitate and) corn oil (and)
BHA (and) BHT.

Vitamin A Palmitate:
Type PI.8 contains 1,650,000 to 1,800,000 I.U./gm
No antioxidants added.
CTFA Designation: Retinyl Palmitate (and) corn oil

Vitamin A Palmitate:
Type P1.8fBH
1,650,000 to 1,800,000 I.U./gm.
Stabilized with BHA/BHT
CTFA Designation: Retinyl Palmitate (and) corn oil (and)
BHA (and) BHT.

AQUAPALM (Vitamin A Palmitate Isomerized):

Contains 1,500,000 I.U. of Vitamin A per gram plus 5 mg
each of BHA and BHT per 1,000,000 units as antioxidants.
CTFA Designation: Retiny1 Palmitate (and) corn oil (and)
BHA (and) BHT.

Vitamin A Palmitate with Vitamin D3 in Vegetable Oil:

Available as 5 to 1 ratio, 1,000,000 I.U. of Vitamin A
and 200,000 I.U. of Vitamin D3 per gm.
CTFA Designation: Retinyl Palmitate (and) Cholecalciferol
(and) corn oil

Vitamin A Alcohol Blend:

Vitamin A Alcohol blended with Tween 20, 1,500,000 I.U./gm
CTFA Designation: Retinol (and) Polysorbate 20
650 Cosmetics Additives

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: Vitamin A:

Vitamin A , according to the U.S.P. official monograph,
contains a suitable from of retinol (vitamin A alcohol)
or its esters formed from edible fatty acids, principally
acetic and palmitic acids.
Physical-Chemical Properties of Retinyl Palmitate:
Empirical formula: C36H6002
Molecular Weight: 524.9
Specific gravity: 0.90-0.95 @ 25C
Appearance: Clear, light yellow to amber liquid with a
slight characteristic odor.
Solubility:
- Insoluble in water and glycerin.
- Very soluble in chloroform and ether.
- Soluble in vegetable oils.
- Clear aqueous dispersions can be prepared with polysorbate
80.

S tabi1ity
- Vitamin A is sensitive to oxidation.
- Retinol is more sensitive than fatty acid esters of
vitamin A.
- Oxidation is catalyzed by trace metals, notably iron and
copper.
- Sensitive to UV light.
- Isomerized by acids.
- Sensitive to heat.
Physiological Function:
- Essential for vision.
- Regulates the growth and activity of epithelial cells.
- Essential for growth and maintenance of bones, glands,
teeth, nails, and hair.
- Its effect is dosage dependent:
-
High levels have keratolytic action (detergent-like)
- Low levels are anti-keratinizing.
Potential Topical Benefits:
- Absorbed by the skin.
- Skin "Normalizer", maintaining skin soft and plump.
- Anti-keratinizing.
- Improves the water barrier properties of skin.
- Possible use in after-sun tan products because of its
"Normalizing" properties.
- Recommeneded levels for skin care products are 5,000-
1 0 , 0 0 0 I.U./gm.
 Roche Chemical Division 651

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: Vitamin C (As Ascorbyl Palmitate):

Ascorbyl Palmitate is white or yellowish white crystalline
powder having a slight odor. It exhibits the full biological
activity of Vitamin C.
Physical-Chemical Properties:
Empirical Formula: C22H3807
Molecular Weight: 414.54
Identity Test: Positive
Melting Range: 107C-117C
Specific Rotation: +21 to t24
Loss on Drying: Maximum 2.0%
Residue on Ignition: Maximum 0.1%
Heavy Metals: maximum 0.001% (IO ppm)
Arsenic: Maximum 0.0003% (3 ppm)
Assay (dry basis): 95.0-100.5%
Solubility:
- Very slightly soluble in water (0.00018 gm/100 water at
room temperature.
- Soluble in alcohol (1.0 gm/4.5 ml alcohol)
- Solubility in oily substances is low and varies with the
nature of the oil or solvent
Stability:
Ascorbyl Palmitate is fairly stable to air if protected
from humidity, but somewhat sensitive to light and heat. The
bulk product should be stored between 46 and 59F.
Potential Uses in Cosmetics & Toiletries:
Objectionable odors and flavors can develop in products
containing vegetable and animal fats and oils due to oxid-
ative rancidity and enzymatic rancidity. Enzymes usually
can be controlled by destruction via heat, whereas oxida-
tion rancidity calls for antioxidants, synergists and other
means.
Since substrates which are susceptible to such oxidative
breakdown are usually oil soluble and not water soluble,
oil soluble antioxidants are called for. Ascorbyl Palmitate
is especially useful in this regard, owing to its ability
to scavenge oxygen, whether the oxygen be dissolved in the
product, or in the head space above the product.
Ascorbyl palmitate has long been used as an antioxidant
in vegetable oils, where it has been found to be more
effective than either BHA or BHT. In animal fats, ascorbyl
palmitate acts synergistically with other antioxidants,
such as dl-alpha-tocopherol.
Although the air-oxidation of unsaturated compounds such
as vegetable oils may be very slow at room temperature, once
hydroperoxides are formed, their subsequent breakdown to
free-radicals leads to a very rapid decomposition of the
substrate.
Concentrations of ascorbyl palmitate in the range of 1 0 0 -
500 ppm usually suffice.
652 Cosmetics Additives

ROCHE CHEMICAL DIVISION: Vitamin E:

In nature, vitamin E appears as tocopherols. Of the several
tocopherols, the d-alpha form has the highest biological
potency.
Physical-Chemical Properties:
A. dl-alpha Tocopherol (USP Grade)
Empirical Formula: C29H5002
Molecular Weight: 430.7
Biological Activity: 1 mg=l.l International Units
Vitamin E (dl-alpha Tocopherol) meets all requirements of
the USP and FCC when tested according to those compendia.
Identity Tests: Positive
Acidity: Satisfactory
Heavy Metals: Maximum 0.001% (IO ppm)
Assay (USP, GLC Method): 96.0-102.0%
B. dl-alpha Tocopherol Acetate (USP and Cosmetic Grade)
Empirical Formula: C31H5203
Molecular Weight: 472.76
Biological Activity: 1 mg=l International Unit
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol acetate) meets all require-
ments of the USP and FCC when tested according to those
compendia.
Identity Tests: Positive
Acidity: Satisfactory
Heavy Metals: Maximum 0.001% (IO ppm)
Assay (U.S.P. Grade): 96.0-102.0%
(USP, GLC Method)
Cosmetic Grade: 91.0-95.0%
Solubility:
dl-alpha Tocopherol:
- Insoluble in water.
-
Freely soluble in alcohol.
-
Miscible in ether, chloroform, acetone, vegetable oils,
isopropryl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and other cosmetic
oils.
dl-alpha Tocopheryl Acetate:
- Insoluble in water.
- Freely soluble in alcohol. ,
- Miscible with ether, chloroform, acetone, vegetable oils,
isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and other
cosmetic oils.
Stability:
dl-alpha Tocopherol:
- Unstable to heat in the presence of oxygen.
- Relatively stable to acids and alkalies in the absence of
oxygen
- Oxidizes and darkens on exposure to light and air.
- Ferric or silver salts and rancid fats accelerate
degradation.
 Rohm and Haas 653

ROAM AND HAAS: KATHON CG Microbiocide:

The active ingredients of KATHON CG biocide are two isothia-

zolones identified by the IUPAC system of nomenclature as: 5-
chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-oneand 2-methyl-4-isothiaz-
olin-3-one.
The CTFA-adopted names for these active substances are:
Methyl Chloro isothiazoline-CAS number 26172-55-4
Methyl isothiazolinone-CAS number 2682-20-4
Typical Physical and Chemical Properties:
Active Ingredients:
5-Chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one: 1.15%
2-Methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one 0.35%
Inert Ingredients:
Magnesium salts (chloride and nitrate) 23.0%
Water 75.5%
Appearance: Clear liquid
Color: Light amber
Odor: Mild
Specific Gravity @ 20C: 1 . 2 1
pH (as manufactured): 3.5-5.0
Suggested Applications:
KATHON CG biocide is suggested as a preservative for:
- shampoos and hair conditioners
- hair and body gels
- bubble baths
- surfactants and raw materials for cosmetics
Microbiostatic Properties:
KATHON CG biocide exhibits outstanding antimicrobial activity
against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, fungi and
yeasts.
Efficacy in Cosmetics:
The antimicrobial performance of KATHON CG biocide in most
cosmetics is excellent. Long-term micro-biological protection
is obtained employing use levels up to 15 ppm A.I.