Growing lemons in Australia- a production manual - Readers’ Note
This document is part of a larger publication. The remaining parts and full
version of the publication can be found at:
http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/citrus/lemon-manual
Updated versions of this document can also be found at the above web
address.
This document is subject to the disclaimers and copyright of the full version
from which it is extracted. These disclaimers and copyright statements are
available in the appropriate document at the above web address.
Canopy Management
LEMON TREE GROWTH AND STRUCTURE
Lemon trees tend to have a more
willowy or weeping tree
structure than that of most
orange and mandarin varieties.
The branches and limbs tend to
be more easily broken in strong
winds and when the crop load is
heavy. Overall lemon tree
branches tend to be longer,
thinner and more flexible than
those of orange trees. Pruning
should aim to shorten these
branches. Structural pruning of young trees
In some varieties, such as Eureka and Meyer, the fruit tend to be borne in
clusters at the ends of branches, which then bend downwards under the weight
of the fruit. When the fruit are removed the branch normally springs back into
position. Sometimes the crop load is so heavy that these long willowy branches
can break. Fruit produced on the outside of trees and in clusters on the ends of
branches are more prone to wind damage. Pruning should aim to encourage
fruit on the insides of trees where it is more protected from wind.
Lemons also have a tendency to produce strong, vigorous upright water shoots
that are usually thorny. These are normally unproductive and should be
removed as early as possible. Sometimes these water shoots can be used quite
effectively to replace old unproductive structural limbs when rejuvenating
trees.
In some areas lemons grow almost continuously throughout the year producing
multiple leaf flushes and crops. The new leaf flush in lemons tends to be a
reddish purple colour which changes to green as the leaves mature.
PRUNING STAGES
Young tree formation
Pruning normally starts when the trees are 18 months to 2 years old. At this
stage pruning is used to develop the trees structural framework. The aim is to
have 3-5 main limbs, with the lowest branch starting at least 65cm above the
ground.
Maintenance pruning of bearing trees
A more regular program of pruning starts
when the trees start to regularly crop. The
aims of pruning now are more diverse.
Pruning is undertaken to:
• remove diseased, dead, weak or old
growth;
• remove crossed over branches or
branches in the wrong place; Vigorous new upright growth after
pruning. Followup pruning to thin
• thin out and open up the tree canopy out the new growth should be
to improve light and air penetration; undertaken about 8-12 weeks later.
Growing Lemons in Australia - a production manual© 10 — 3
Canopy Management
• reduce or manipulate flowering or crop load;
• reduce tree height or width;
• improve spray coverage.
Rejuvenation pruning of old trees
This type of pruning is normally undertaken on old trees which are still healthy
with the aim of reinvigorating the tree to improve cropping potential. With this
type of pruning major limbs are normally removed (skeletonizing) to encourage
replacement with new young branches. This type of pruning should be
undertaken over a number of years. Typically trees are pruned initially on one
side so that some crop yield is retained, the other side is then pruned 1-2 years
later.
OTHER PRUNING TECHNIQUES
Hedging is normally undertaken by
mechanical hedging machines.
Hedging removes the outer canopy
shell of trees and is normally
undertaken after fruit set to remove
crop load or after harvest if crop load
is adequate. It is also used to reduce
the tree canopy in the plant row to
improve movement of equipment and
reduce damage to fruit caused by A hedging machine
passing equipment.
Light hedging removes about 30% of the bearing canopy and takes wood up to
8-12mm in diameter. The cutting angle is about 15-20o. Heavy hedging is used
when you are rejuvenating trees. Branches up to 40mm in diameter are
removed.
If trees are hedged at the same point each time the trees will develop a
''thatched'' or ''witches broom'' effect at the cutting site. This makes fruit more
difficult to pick and the site holds dead leaves and small twigs which in turn
harbour pests and disease and reduces light penetration. Therefore the hedging
site on trees should be varied each time.
''Witches broom'' effect from hedging at the same site.
Topping is done mechanically to reduce tree height. Topping is normally
undertaken after harvest. If done in late spring or summer topping can result in
unwanted vigorous upright growth. It is best to top trees in winter. Topping is
the most invigorating form of pruning. Heavy topping if done at the wrong time
Growing Lemons in Australia - a production manual© 10 — 4
Canopy Management
can result in excessive upright vegetative growth which causes shading and
uses the tree’s water and nutrient reserves. Topping, like hedging, if done at the
same height each time will cause trees to develop a ''witches broom'' effect.
Therefore the height at which topping is done needs to be varied. The tops of
trees should be cone shaped at an angle of 30o - 40o. If trees are topped flat they
are difficult to harvest and tend to cause excessive vegetative regrowth which is
non-productive.
If hedging is used for the first time on
very old trees a lot of dead wood can
be left behind, which can be a source
of disease.
Photo by Greg Moulds
A block of hedged trees
Skirting is the removal of the lower tree branches up to a height of between
0.5-1m from the ground. Skirting trees improves undertree access for irrigation,
weeding and fertilising practices. It also reduces the impact and access of
certain pest and disease organisms.
PRUNING TIPS
; Pruning should be a regular part of tree management.
; When hand pruning sterilise your pruning equipment after each tree to
reduce the spread of disease. When using mechanical pruning machinery,
the blades should be sterilised after each block or variety. (A sterilising
solution of 3% sodium hypochloride can be used.)
: Heavy pruning should not be carried out in hot weather as sunburn of
branches or fruit may occur.
: In areas where there is the potential for frost, pruning should not be
done at a time when the resulting young flush growth will be susceptible
to frost damage.
! Heavy pruning at the wrong time can result in excessive vegetative
growth.
! Pruning during budbreak or flowering will impact on crop load.
! The heavier you prune the longer it takes for the tree to recover and
therefore crop.
Growing Lemons in Australia - a production manual© 10 — 5
Canopy Management
Key References
• Canopy Management for Bigger and Cleaner Fruit. Module 3
Certificate III in Citrus Production. NSW Agriculture 2001.
• Krajewski, A. Pruning for Improving Quality in Citrus. Fruit Doctors.
2002.
Growing Lemons in Australia - a production manual© 10 — 6
