Polish Michal Korkosz
Polish Michal Korkosz
Cover
Dedication
Introduction
How to Use This Book
A Global Pantry in My Polish Kitchen
Raw
Smashed Cucumber with Smoked Tofu Walnut Sauce, Crispy
Shallots, and Chile
Zucchini Carpaccio with Fried Capers, Mint, and Parmesan
Cabbage Salad with Green Sauce, Olives, and Bryndza Cheese
Tomatoes and Golden Berries with Fermented Caesar Dressing
and Parmesan
All the Leaves with V inaigrette, Blackberries, and So Many
Herbs
Beet-Kohlrabi Surówki with Pistachios, Cilantro, and
Horseradish
Romaine Lettuce and Radish with Sunflower Cream and
Scallions
Crunchy Broccoli and Hazelnuts with Grapes, Apples, and
Spicy Honey Dressing
Stovetop
Charred Corn Risotto with Cherry Tomatoes and Hazelnuts
Goat Cheese Pierogi with Honey and Marjoram
Potato and Smoked Twaróg Pierogi with Roasted Celeriac and
Dill Oil
Pearl Barley Salad with Pickled Red Onion, Fennel, and Szafir
Cheese
Creamy Lentil Soup with Beet Greens, Crispy Chickpeas, and
Dill
Miso Red Cabbage Stew
A Way to Gulasz
Autumn Sauerkraut Bigos with Butternut Squash, Porcini, and
Grapes
Freakishly Good Kopytka with Umami Sauce, Spinach, and
Poppy Furikake
Dreamy White Beans with Smoky Mayo
Baby Potatoes and Asparagus with Cracked Black Pepper–
V odka Sauce
Beet Greens Gołąbki with Millet, Chanterelles, and Cherry
Tomatoes
Steamed
Steamed Corn with Lavender-Thyme Butter
Steamed Eggplant Lettuce Tacos with Umami Bomb Sauce
and Sesame Seeds
Parowańce (Steamed Buns) with Fava Beans, Oyster
Mushrooms, and Lemony Tahini Sauce
Steamed Rainbow V eggies with Herby Broth and Carrot-Green
Pesto
Spiced Millet and Butternut Squash with Bay Leaf, Cinnamon,
and Allspice
Steamed Leeks with Sour Cream, Panko-Coated Egg, and
Green Crisps
Smashed & Blended
Luxurious Walnut-Mushroom Pasztet (Polish Pâté)
Smoked Tofu Spread with Chanterelles, Cucumber, and
Nigella Seeds
Chickpea Spread with Caramelized Onions and Parsley
Roasted Eggplant and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip with Polish
Dukkah
Nettle Pesto Pasta with Radishes and Asparagus
White Bean, Roasted Garlic, and Mushroom Spread with
Horseradish and Dill
Buckwheat Porridge with Homemade Chocolate Hazelnut
Spread and Raspberries
Baby Potatoes and Whipped Twaróg with Brown Butter and
Dill Flowers
Confit
Cherry Tomato Confit
Creamy Confit Tomato Soup
Sour Cream Labneh with Cherry Tomato Confit, Fried
Buckwheat, and Sunflower Seeds
Buttery Mushroom and Rosemary Confit
Not-Your-Average Kanapka with Twarożek and Buttery
Mushroom and Rosemary Confit
Garlic Confit
Sauerkraut Ł azanki with Oyster Mushrooms, Zucchini, and
Garlic Confit
Baked & Roasted
Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Soup with Panfried Olives
and Pistachios
The Big Flavor Roasted Tomato Broth with Homemade Fun-
to-Make Noodles
Roasted Cauliflower with Chanterelle Sauce, Rye Croutons,
and Chives
Croque Madame with Goat Cheese, Eggplant, and Cheesy
Mornay Sauce
Roasted Eggplant with Crispy Buckwheat, Mint, and Sour
Cream
Roasted Mushrooms to Die For
Baked Zucchini with Plums, Ginger, and Walnuts
Kakory (Potato Hand Pies) with Lentils and Smoked Twaróg
Roasted Parsley Root with Red Onion and Whiskey J am,
Smoked Twaróg, and Mint
Caramelized Squash with Garlic Pumpkin Seeds and Lemony
Yogurt
Roasted Green Beans with Smoked Tofu, Parsley, and Lemon
Sheet-Pan Kopytka with White Beans, Brussels Sprouts, and
Polish Za’atar
Charred, Grilled & Pan-Roasted
Charred Broccoli with “ Fifth Flavor Sauce,” Lemony Mayo,
and Poppy Seeds
Grilled Red Peppers with Millet, Turmeric Yogurt, and
Caramelized Lemon
Charred Corn Soup with Buttermilk, Coriander, and Chile Oil
Pan-Roasted Cabbage with Brown Harissa, Sour Cream, and
Turmeric Oil
Grilled Leeks with Blue Cheese Sauce and Candied Walnuts
Grilled Apricots with Tomatoes, Shallots, Dill Flowers, and
Chile-Turmeric Oil
Caramelized Baby Carrots with Coriander, Golden Berries, and
Crushed Pistachios
Panfried
Crispy Leniwe with Asparagus, Mustard Seeds, and Lemon
Crunchy Kopytka with Mushrooms, Leeks, and Lovage
Stir-Fried Whatever
Forever Green Lentil Cutlet
Crispy Brussels Sprouts with Miso Bagna Cauda, Lemony
Parsley, and Panko
Caramelized Red Onion Pasta with Sun-Dried Tomatoes,
Smoked Twaróg, and Lemony Parsley
Chanterelle Challah Toast with Roasted Garlic Butter, Soaked
in Rosemary Wine Sauce
Crispy Smoked Tofu with Black Polish Sauce
Deep-Fried
Better-Than-Schabowy Parasol Mushroom Schnitzel
Fried Radishes with Lemony Mayo
White Bean Fritters with Romesco Sauce
Cauliflower-Potato Harissa Krokiety with Grapefruit Sour
Cream
Celeriac Schnitzel with Zucchini-Leek Surówka and
Horseradish Sauce
Infused & Browned
Mashed Potatoes with Bay Leaves and Kefir
Kluski Śląskie (Silesian Dumplings) with Cauliflower-Orange
Cream, Sauerkraut, and Fried Buckwheat
Roasted French Fries with Dill Pickles, Szafir Cheese, and Bay
Leaf– Allspice Mayo
Chilled Tomato-Strawberry Chłodnik
Tomatoes and Peaches with Goat Cheese, Crispy Sage, and
Superior Brown Butter Sauce
Creamy Pasta with Porcini and Mustard Seed Sauce
Fermented & Preserved
Fermented Cherry Tomatoes with Red Chile and Lots of
Spices
Fermented Cherry Tomato Salad with Pomegranate, Chives,
and Pecorino Romano
Fermented Radishes with Ginger and Bay Leaves
Pasta and Fermented Radishes with Walnut Cream and Mint
Ogórkowa (Dill Pickle Soup) with Celeriac, Turmeric, and
Walnut Cream
Miso Żurek with Mashed Potatoes, Roasted Mushrooms, and
Chives
Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles
Out-Of-This-World Snacking Pickles with Sour Cream, Honey,
and Bee Pollen
Baby Potatoes and Radishes with Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill
Pickles, Onions, and Green Sauce
Chilled Half-Sour Cucumber-Melon Soup with Goat Cheese,
Apple, and Mint
Pickled Chanterelles with Rosemary and Caraway Seeds
No-Meat Meatballs with Crispy Brussels Sprouts, Pickled
Chanterelles, and Tahini Sauce
Sweet
Tomato Gingerbread Layer Cake with Prune J am
Caramelized Twaróg Basque Cheesecake
Drożdżówki with Black Currant and Brown Butter Streusel
Kremówka with V anilla Cream and Raspberries
Caramel Plums with Cinnamon, Sour Cream, and Candied
Hazelnuts
Hazelnut Cookies with Dark Chocolate and Kłodawska Salt
Zero-Waste Bajaderki (Truffle Rum Balls)
Lavender and V anilla Sablé Cookies
Salted Szarlotka (Apple Pie) with No-Churn Brown Butter Ice
Cream
Walnut Cake with Plums and Thyme
Acknowledgments
Index
Copyright
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on:
Introduction
H ow to Use This Book
A G lobal Pantry in My Polish Kitchen
RAW
Smashed Cucumber with Smoked Tofu Walnut Sauce, Crispy Shallots,
and Chile
Zucchini Carpaccio with Fried Capers, Mint, and Parmesan
Cabbage Salad with Green Sauce, Olives, and Bryndza Cheese
Tomatoes and Golden Berries with Fermented Caesar Dressing and
Parmesan
All the Leaves with V inaigrette, Blackberries, and So Many Herbs
Beet-Kohlrabi Surówki with Pistachios, Cilantro, and Horseradish
Romaine Lettuce and Radish with Sunflower Cream and Scallions
Crunchy Broccoli and Hazelnuts with Grapes, Apples, and Spicy Honey
Dressing
STOVETOP
Charred Corn Risotto with Cherry Tomatoes and Hazelnuts
Goat Cheese Pierogi with Honey and Marjoram
Potato and Smoked Twaróg Pierogi with Roasted Celeriac and Dill Oil
Pearl Barley Salad with Pickled Red Onion, Fennel, and Szafir Cheese
Creamy Lentil Soup with Beet Greens, Crispy Chickpeas, and Dill
Miso Red Cabbage Stew
A Way to Gulasz
Autumn Sauerkraut Bigos with Butternut Squash, Porcini, and Grapes
Freakishly Good Kopytka with Umami Sauce, Spinach, and Poppy
Furikake
Dreamy White Beans with Smoky Mayo
Baby Potatoes and Asparagus with Cracked Black Pepper– V odka Sauce
Beet Greens Gołąbki with Millet, Chanterelles, and Cherry Tomatoes
STEAMED
Steamed Corn with Lavender-Thyme Butter
Steamed Eggplant Lettuce Tacos with Umami Bomb Sauce and Sesame
Seeds
Parowańce (Steamed Buns) with Fava Beans, Oyster Mushrooms, and
Lemony Tahini Sauce
Steamed Rainbow V eggies with Herby Broth and Carrot-Green Pesto
Spiced Millet and Butternut Squash with Bay Leaf, Cinnamon, and
Allspice
Steamed Leeks with Sour Cream, Panko-Coated Egg, and Green Crisps
SMASHED & BLENDED
Luxurious Walnut-Mushroom Pasztet (Polish Pâté)
Smoked Tofu Spread with Chanterelles, Cucumber, and Nigella Seeds
Chickpea Spread with Caramelized Onions and Parsley
Roasted Eggplant and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip with Polish Dukkah
Nettle Pesto Pasta with Radishes and Asparagus
White Bean, Roasted Garlic, and Mushroom Spread with Horseradish
and Dill
Buckwheat Porridge with Homemade Chocolate Hazelnut Spread and
Raspberries
Baby Potatoes and Whipped Twaróg with Brown Butter and Dill Flowers
CONFIT
Cherry Tomato Confit
Creamy Confit Tomato Soup
Sour Cream Labneh with Cherry Tomato Confit, Fried Buckwheat, and
Sunflower Seeds
Buttery Mushroom and Rosemary Confit
Not-Your-Average Kanapka with Twarożek and Buttery Mushroom and
Rosemary Confit
Garlic Confit
Sauerkraut Ł azanki with Oyster Mushrooms, Zucchini, and Garlic Confit
BAKED & ROASTED
Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Soup with Panfried Olives and
Pistachios
The Big Flavor Roasted Tomato Broth with Homemade Fun-to-Make
Noodles
Roasted Cauliflower with Chanterelle Sauce, Rye Croutons, and Chives
Croque Madame with Goat Cheese, Eggplant, and Cheesy Mornay Sauce
Roasted Eggplant with Crispy Buckwheat, Mint, and Sour Cream
Roasted Mushrooms to Die For
Baked Zucchini with Plums, Ginger, and Walnuts
Kakory (Potato Hand Pies) with Lentils and Smoked Twaróg
Roasted Parsley Root with Red Onion and Whiskey J am, Smoked
Twaróg, and Mint
Caramelized Squash with Garlic Pumpkin Seeds and Lemony Yogurt
Roasted Green Beans with Smoked Tofu, Parsley, and Lemon
Sheet-Pan Kopytka with White Beans, Brussels Sprouts, and Polish
Za’atar
CHARRED, GRILLED & PAN-ROASTED
Charred Broccoli with “ Fifth Flavor Sauce,” Lemony Mayo, and Poppy
Seeds
Grilled Red Peppers with Millet, Turmeric Yogurt, and Caramelized
Lemon
Charred Corn Soup with Buttermilk, Coriander, and Chile Oil
Pan-Roasted Cabbage with Brown Harissa, Sour Cream, and Turmeric
Oil
Grilled Leeks with Blue Cheese Sauce and Candied Walnuts
Grilled Apricots with Tomatoes, Shallots, Dill Flowers, and Chile-
Turmeric Oil
Caramelized Baby Carrots with Coriander, Golden Berries, and Crushed
Pistachios
PANFRIED
Crispy Leniwe with Asparagus, Mustard Seeds, and Lemon
Crunchy Kopytka with Mushrooms, Leeks, and Lovage
Stir-Fried Whatever
Forever Green Lentil Cutlet
Crispy Brussels Sprouts with Miso Bagna Cauda, Lemony Parsley, and
Panko
Caramelized Red Onion Pasta with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Smoked
Twaróg, and Lemony Parsley
Chanterelle Challah Toast with Roasted Garlic Butter, Soaked in
Rosemary Wine Sauce
Crispy Smoked Tofu with Black Polish Sauce
DEEP-FRIED
Better-Than-Schabowy Parasol Mushroom Schnitzel
Fried Radishes with Lemony Mayo
White Bean Fritters with Romesco Sauce
Cauliflower-Potato Harissa Krokiety with Grapefruit Sour Cream
Celeriac Schnitzel with Zucchini-Leek Surówka and Horseradish Sauce
INFUSED & BROWNED
Mashed Potatoes with Bay Leaves and Kefir
Kluski Śląskie (Silesian Dumplings) with Cauliflower-Orange Cream,
Sauerkraut, and Fried Buckwheat
Roasted French Fries with Dill Pickles, Szafir Cheese, and Bay Leaf–
Allspice Mayo
Chilled Tomato-Strawberry Chłodnik
Tomatoes and Peaches with Goat Cheese, Crispy Sage, and Superior
Brown Butter Sauce
Creamy Pasta with Porcini and Mustard Seed Sauce
FERMENTED & PRESERVED
Fermented Cherry Tomatoes with Red Chile and Lots of Spices
Fermented Cherry Tomato Salad with Pomegranate, Chives, and
Pecorino Romano
Fermented Radishes with Ginger and Bay Leaves
Pasta and Fermented Radishes with Walnut Cream and Mint
Ogórkowa (Dill Pickle Soup) with Celeriac, Turmeric, and Walnut
Cream
Miso Żurek with Mashed Potatoes, Roasted Mushrooms, and Chives
Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles
Out-Of-This-World Snacking Pickles with Sour Cream, Honey, and Bee
Pollen
Baby Potatoes and Radishes with Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles,
Onions, and Green Sauce
Chilled Half-Sour Cucumber-Melon Soup with Goat Cheese, Apple, and
Mint
Pickled Chanterelles with Rosemary and Caraway Seeds
No-Meat Meatballs with Crispy Brussels Sprouts, Pickled Chanterelles,
and Tahini Sauce
SWEET
Tomato Gingerbread Layer Cake with Prune J am
Caramelized Twaróg Basque Cheesecake
Drożdżówki with Black Currant and Brown Butter Streusel
Kremówka with V anilla Cream and Raspberries
Caramel Plums with Cinnamon, Sour Cream, and Candied Hazelnuts
Hazelnut Cookies with Dark Chocolate and Kłodawska Salt
Zero-Waste Bajaderki (Truffle Rum Balls)
Lavender and V anilla Sablé Cookies
Salted Szarlotka (Apple Pie) with No-Churn Brown Butter Ice Cream
Walnut Cake with Plums and Thyme
Acknowledgments
Index
Introduction
Prayer was a part of every meal at the Catholic elementary school I
attended. When I graduated, I wanted to attend a “ normal” (or so I
thought of it at the time) middle school. I imagined such a school would
be a more liberal place, where I would find more people like me. But the
opposite happened: Soon enough, bullies were pushing me into hallway
corners and calling me all kinds of cruel names. My appearance became
the object of particular ridicule; my chubby face revealed that I loved to
eat.
I sought refuge in the kitchen, where I began to spend all my free
time—to hide myself, in search of comfort and an escape from my
troubles. It was my sanctuary; cooking felt like a prayer. I discovered
that the kitchen is a place where you can have full agency and control.
And that cooking is a process that very quickly returns the results of your
efforts.
I began to cook anything but Polish food. Some of what I cooked was
healthier food, as a way to deal with how I felt about my body. I
experimented with techniques like steaming, and I became a big fan of
steamed broccoli with tahini sauce seasoned with red pepper flakes. And,
of roasting and baking, I loved the gentle crunch of roasted zucchini
slices covered in finely grated Parmesan and thyme. At the same time, I
became passionate about browsing through cookbooks, including those
of Yotam Ottolenghi, and reading food blogs and magazines like Saveur
in search of flavors beyond those from the Polish kitchen in which I was
raised. I wanted to break away from stereotypical Polish dishes—such as
bigos with kiełbasa, golden-fried pierogi, or żurek so sour its acidity
shocks your taste buds—which I grew up mainly eating. I started to
painfully associate these dishes with those school bullies, who called
themselves “ nationalists.” They represented the xenophobic idea of
defending the nation from immigrants who, in their minds, wanted to
destroy Polish culture. They would ostentatiously praise anything that
would speak to their belief of “ pure Polishness,” including, but not
limited to, the food of our culture.
For a long time, I denied my “ Polishness.” I treated it as something to
be ashamed of. I was developing into a good cook—but not of my native
Polish food and its traditional flavors. I could work for months on a
recipe for the perfect pad thai and take weeks to craft the cheesecake of
my dreams. But I made a point to make my cheesecake with Philadelphia
Cream Cheese, ricotta, or mascarpone, because the sharp, bitter taste of
Twaróg, or farmer cheese, became unappetizing to me, as it reminded me
of the foods those bullies would praise.
I can’t pinpoint exactly when things changed, but when I got the
chance to write my first cookbook, I immediately knew what it should be
about: I wanted to showcase to the world that Polish cuisine doesn’t have
to be as meat-heavy as stereotypes have it—and that it’s traditionally rich
in a wide range of vegetarian specialties. Writing Fresh from Poland was
a healing process; it liberated my culinary DNA. I returned to childhood
memories—to the flavors that I used to love so much. I spent hours
watching my grandma cook, talking to her about recipes. I translated
what her instructions (like “ more or less” or “ make the dough look nice” )
meant specifically, so that I could share those recipes with readers, and
so the dishes would turn out as perfectly as when she and I made them. I
improved traditional recipes and added twists like lemon zest to leniwe
(“ lazy” ) cheese dumplings, which became as light as a cloud. At the
time, I didn’t go beyond “ the canon” ; I kept strictly to recipes that I
understood to be “ Polish” —historical dishes, local ingredients, and
traditional flavors.
Now, I think I was wrong.
What I failed to see at the time is that Polish cooking has always been
multicultural. And it continues to be.
Many chefs, food critics, and historians in Poland argue that “ native”
Polish cuisine doesn’t really exist, because it’s a patchwork of regional
recipes. What we consider national dishes are almost always derived
from or inspired by other food cultures. Kotlet schabowy, the pork
schnitzel beloved by many Poles, is a descendant of wiener schnitzel,
which Austrians first served in Poland during the nineteenth-century
partitions. The beloved national dish pierogi originates from Red
Ruthenia, the territory of Ukraine that was part of Poland many years
ago. Before the period of historical turmoil that led to its disappearance
from the map of Europe, which lasted 123 years, Poland was a mosaic of
nations. As a result, Eastern, Turkish, Ruthenian, German, French,
Italian, and J ewish culinary influences, among others, are strong in
Polish culture.
The world of gastronomy is no different. You’d be hard-pressed to
find worth-trying restaurants serving what’s considered native Polish
food. Compared to other European capitals such as Paris, Madrid, or
Rome, Warsaw is a cultural melting pot where you can taste flavors from
all over. Despite a declared love for national dishes, Poles adore
discovering new flavors. And we’re sensitive to the challenges posed by
the modern world, such as climate change. Traveling around the globe,
I’ve yet to visit another city where vegetarian cuisine is as strongly
emphasized as it is in Warsaw. Happy Cow, an online hub that lists
sources of vegan, vegetarian, and healthy food, has even named Warsaw
as one of the most vegan-friendly cities in the world. We Poles are very
aware of climate change, animal rights, and our overall health, so we’ve
begun to opt for vegetables and grains over meat. These preferences have
inspired changes in the way we cook and eat today.
I was focused on tradition in Fresh from Poland, but here, I’m going
a step further to present to you what Polish cooking looks like today and,
in fact, how it has always looked. On one hand, these recipes are a
modern, vegetarian take on long-established Polish recipes, but on the
other, they’re infused with flavors and ingredients brought to Poland by
immigration and globalization throughout history. Some people may call
this fusion, but I’d rather think of it as the natural integration of global
flavors and ingredients into Polish cuisine that has come to pass over
time. You’ll find kopytka, Polish potato dumplings, seasoned with poppy
furikake, a J apanese spice blend with a Polish twist, thanks to poppy
seeds (see page 44). Or parowańce, steamed buns, which I stuff with
fried oyster mushrooms and fava beans and drizzle with a sauce based on
tahini, a Middle Eastern staple (see page 58). You’ll also discover many
recipes that feel like home to me, such as Lavender and V anilla Sablé
Cookies (page 234), which are reminiscent of those my grandmother
used to make.
And I’m not alone in this. When I ask my friends what kinds of meals
they’ve prepared recently, they mention a wide variety: from roasted
vegetables and numerous soups and stews to pasta and dumplings of all
types. They experiment with flavors and ingredients from around the
world, including those from Italian, Arabic, and Asian cuisines. They
don’t often mention dishes that are entirely devoid of global influences.
At the same time, their cooking incorporates many Polish flavors, spices,
and elements that they associate with home. Twaróg, or farmer cheese, is
used wherever possible, and dishes are generously seasoned with spices
and blends, like dukkah or za’atar, re-created with herbs and spices such
as marjoram and black cumin, which are local to Poland. As we continue
to incorporate these flavors and ingredients from cultures outside Poland
into our own cooking, we contribute to the multicultural nature that
defines our country’s cuisine.
At the end of the day, cooking is an invitation to fantasize—to push
boundaries—and is only limited by your imagination. I believe
imagination is the driving force for change—my own, but also within
cooking more broadly. I no longer run away from who I am. In this
cookbook, I celebrate my Polishness, and my goal is to honor my
heritage in the best way I know how—through food. The recipes and
flavors in this book define me as a young Pole, and through them, I share
with you what modern Polish cooking means to me, based on the
techniques, flavors, and ingredients from my native Poland and beyond.
How to Use This Book
As far as I can tell, cookbooks aren’t usually treated like other books.
Most of us don’t read every word from beginning to end, like we would
a novel. Typically, we flip through until our eyes fix on a picture that
looks appetizing, then we follow the recipe step by step to create the
delicious dish in our own home.
What we may not realize is that most cookbooks (at least those in my
collection) are filled with stories from the author’s life, experience, and
knowledge between the lines of each recipe and its headnote. The
outstanding Salt Fat Acid H eat by Samin Nosrat and The Food Lab by J .
Kenji López-Alt are, in my opinion, examples of the perfect cookbook—
they are personal and filled with delicious recipes, yet they impart
knowledge at the same time. After reading books like these, we become
better cooks. My goal in writing this book is to offer you fresh and tasty
recipes for your daily repertoire—but also a deeper understanding of
cooking methods, the freedom to experiment with different ways to
prepare vegetables, and the demonstration of a general sense of lightness
in vegetarian cuisine.
Instead of dividing the book traditionally into chapters on meals,
seasons, or certain veggies, I chose to focus on the cooking methods that,
in my opinion, make a recipe unique:
RAW
STOVETOP
STEAMED
SMASHED & BLENDED
CONFIT
BAKED & ROASTED
CHARRED, GRILLED & PAN-ROASTED
PANFRIED
DEEP-FRIED
INFUSED & BROWNED
FERMENTED & PRESERVED
SWEET
These are methods of food preparation that, I think, everyone who loves
to eat should know well. On the one hand, we’ll discuss basic techniques
for preparing food raw, on the stovetop, and by panfrying. For beginners,
these might be treasure troves of information and an invitation to tango
in the kitchen, and even the more experienced cooks may discover
something new, too. I’ve included a handful of tips and tricks, such as
how to quickly revive wrinkled carrots and how to fry food so that it
isn’t greasy. On the other hand, I’ve dedicated some chapters to more
elevated, restaurant-level methods that make everyday cooking feel even
more special. We’ll look closely at making extravagant (and obscenely
delicious) confits using olive oil and butter; charring, a must in
vegetarian cooking; and infusing and browning, which you can think of
as a chapter dedicated to sauces. As this book focuses on Polish cooking,
fermented and pickled food could not be left out. Every pickle recipe is
paired with a few ways to use the pickles in a larger dish, though it’s
likely you’ll snack on the pickles straight from the jar before you even
get a chance to use them—they’re that delicious. And for the last bite, I
wrap up with something special: Sweet is a chapter on the “ technique” of
making life more delightful—full of my favorite desserts, cakes, and
cookies.
Of course, you’ll see that, in many of these recipes, I don’t stick to a
single technique. Instead, I use a variety of culinary methods to create
layers of flavor and texture. That is what cooking is all about. I like to
think of the recipes in this book as a mosaic of different flavors that
beautifully complement each other, and I adore serving them at the same
time, encouraging guests to mix all the elements from different plates at
the table. Although, in Poland, dishes are traditionally served à la russe,
or sequentially. This is how the chapters are arranged. We start with raw
preparation of vegetables—ideal for starters. Then we go through more
“ concrete” forms, such as smashing and blending (think soups and
spreads), baking, roasting, panfrying, and deep-frying, which all
correspond to the first and second courses. Then you’ll find the chapters
on sauces and fermented foods, which are a great addition to any meal.
And last but not least, we close with sweet treats.
This is not a science-based food encyclopedia, so you shouldn’t
expect lessons you’d find in culinary school. This book is rather a
conversation with a friend who loves to cook vegetables and passionately
shares with you all that he knows. I begin each chapter with a few words
outlining the secrets of the technique, which I hope will make you cook
more deliberately and consciously. Soon, you will have the skills to
create your own recipes, becoming this kind of friend yourself.
Please don’t treat my recipes like the final word. Liberate yourself
with creativity and improvise as much as you’d like—switch the herbs
for your favorite ones, swap out ingredients that aren’t to your taste for
the ones you’re obsessed with right now. This cookbook contains recipes
that are a product of my freestyle cooking. Don’t think you’ll spoil the
“ authenticity” of these recipes—there’s no such thing. I encourage you to
judge what good food looks like on your own.
Cooking is not a test with right and wrong answers, it’s a playground.
A Global Pantry in My Polish
Kitchen
You may be surprised to hear that I don’t have a large kitchen with many
cupboards where I can store food (my goal is to have an extra pantry
room . . . though it may be more of a fantasy). To open drawers,
sometimes, I have to aggressively yank them open because they are
blocked by too many spoons and knives. When I open the cupboard
under the oven, something almost always falls out. Some products you
just need to have on hand for frustration-free cooking. However, this
won’t be a section where I’ll mention every type of flour or oil I use, but
rather the more unusual ingredients that may require a trip to your local
specialty grocery store, Polish deli, or an order placed online.
Flipping through this book, you’ll see several instances of Szafir cheese.
It is a Polish, long-ripened cheese similar to Italian Parmesan. The
difference is that in the production of Szafir cheese, animal rennet is not
used, so it is fully vegetarian (Parmesan is not). Another great vegetarian
substitution is Lithuanian Dziugas cheese, which is very popular in
Poland as well. Buy these in Polish delis or Eastern European food
stores. Nevertheless, if you are not a strict vegetarian, you can easily use
Parmesan in their place.
Twaróg is Polish white gold. When I moved to Madrid some years ago,
of all my native products, I missed Polish farmer cheese the most. There
is something tantalizing about its crisp acidity that melts in the mouth
with every bite. I always buy full-fat Twaróg (definitely the most
flavorful), and lately, quite often I’ve been using smoked Twaróg, which
I love to sprinkle over roasted vegetables and stuffed pierogi. You can
buy these cheeses (sometimes just called “ farmer cheese” ) in well-
stocked supermarkets and Polish delis.
Umami! I will repeat this word many times in this book, because very
often vegetarian dishes lack the fifth flavor, so I try to incorporate it as
much as possible into my cooking. J apanese miso paste and soy sauce
are two umami staples, so I use them a lot to add more depth. In stores,
you can find red (aka), yellow (shinshu), and white (shiro) miso paste.
White is the mildest; it’s slightly sweet and mellow. I tend to use yellow
and white, as they’re the most versatile. When it comes to soy sauce,
there are also several types—mainly light and dark. Dark soy sauce has a
richer, slightly sweeter, and less salty flavor. I almost exclusively use
naturally brewed Kikkoman, which is a dark soy sauce.
HARISSA PASTE
VARIETAL HONEY
Poland loves its honey. Go to any store and you’ll find various flavors to
choose from, such as buckwheat, rapeseed, raspberry, or honeydew. I
always like to have a few kinds on hand to spread on toast with butter
and salt, but also to sweeten my cooking if needed. Look for flavored
honey at your local grocery, Polish deli, or health food store. In this
book, the recipes call for regular honey for the sake of accessibility, but
feel free to play with different kinds of varietal honey to create an even
more exciting taste.
FRUIT VINEGARS
NIGELLA SEEDS
SMOKED TOFU
If you’re not a fan of regular tofu, you must try the smoked version. J ust
as natural tofu is a blank canvas, a sponge that soaks up anything you
pair it with, smoked tofu is a tool for setting a more distinctive tone in
dishes. My experience has taught me that carnivores like it very much,
because they associate it with the taste of smoked fish or meat. You can
find it in well-stocked supermarkets and specialty stores.
PANKO
Italians have extra virgin olive oil; Poles have cold-pressed rapeseed oil.
It’s a unique product that has an enticing, nutty fragrance and tastes very
herby, almost like freshly cut grass. You can’t use too much, because it
will absolutely dominate the dish, but a few drops will turn the most
ordinary meal into something truly magical.
Raw
CRUNCHY / FRESH / V IBRANT
If you think raw vegetables don’t require any technique, you’re wrong.
Raw vegetables require more skill than vegetables in any other form, as
the taste cannot be masked by the heat of a skillet. When purchasing raw
vegetables, quality matters; they shouldn’t be wilted, because this will
downgrade the appearance and overall taste of the dish. But nobody’s
perfect. How often have you discovered wilted vegetables at the back of
your refrigerator? It happens to all of us. But don’t throw them away!
Blanch them in ice water and watch as they rise from the dead, like
instant Botox for veggies. (Note that hazardous bacteria will multiply if
veggies are left in water for longer than six hours, so act quickly.)
Now that your fresh vegetables are ready to go, let’s get started. Some
vegetables require maceration, soaking in liquid to soften and/or flavor
them, before consuming. Compare raw onion slices with those that have
been soaked in ice water—the latter are much milder in flavor but are
still juicy. This is how I prepare the shallots for Crunchy Broccoli and
Hazelnuts with Grapes, Apples, and Spicy Honey Dressing (page 25).
We may also want to soak nuts or grains to soften them and create a
creamier texture, such as the sunflower seeds I prepare for Romaine
Lettuce and Radish with Sunflower Cream and Scallions (page 22).
Cutting techniques are crucial when preparing raw veggies.
V egetables with a strong flavor, like cabbage, zucchini, and broccoli,
tend to be more “ grassy” or “ earthy” than other vegetables. But when cut
carefully, they taste amazing. Take, for example, cabbage in little
morsels (see page 14), broccoli in bite-size florets (see page 25), and
zucchini in parchment-thin slices (see page 13)! Let’s examine the most
popular techniques.
JULIENNE: It’s likely you’re familiar with this French cut—long, thin
strips resembling matchsticks. This technique works for many vegetables
but is best for carrots, cucumbers, peppers, celery, zucchini, and potatoes
for french fries. This is also the most convenient option for snacking.
BRUNOISE: A very fine dice, derivative of julienne. The vegetable is
crosscut, then sliced across the sticks to create fine cubes. This technique
is best for onions, shallots, and garlic (when making sauces that won’t be
blended).
CARRÉ, PARMENTIER, MACÉDOINE: Large, medium, and small cubes are
the ideal size for salads, but are used for soups and stews, as well. The
harder the vegetable, the smaller the cube should be. If you are cooking
or roasting the vegetable, you can cut it into larger cubes, since the
vegetable will soften as it cooks.
SLICING : Thin slices that are relatively wide compared to the thickness.
This method is best for soft, juicy vegetables often used for carpaccio,
such as zucchini.
CHIFFONADE: The easiest way to cut greens like cabbage and spinach,
and herbs. Roll the leaves into a tube, then cut into strips.
MINCING: Many of us own garlic presses, but it’s still good to know how
best to cut garlic. Cut into very small cubes (brunoise), sprinkle with salt,
then crush it with the flat side of a knife.
SMASHING: A far more rough and ready method than the others, this
technique doesn’t even require a knife—any reusable bag and a hammer
or mallet will do. Place the vegetables in the bag, seal it, and hammer
away. This technique works well with vegetables that have a high water
content, such as cucumbers or not-yet-ripened tomatoes. Talk about
texture!
SMASHED CUCUMBER
with smoked tofu walnut sauce, crispy shallots, and chile
I have to admit, smashing cucumbers is quite satisfying. Sure, this technique creates various
textures (both hard and soft) in one dish, but pounding cucumbers with a rolling pin and seeing
them explode into smaller pieces is the most exciting part (and the taste is just as thrilling). You
won’t be bored by the taste either. These cucumbers are accompanied by a fiery touch of chile,
crispy shallots, and a sauce of walnuts and smoked tofu. It’s a very simple thing that splendidly
complements all the ingredients—especially the cucumber.
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon honey
1 garlic clove
1 Heat ¼ cup (60 ml) of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
Combine the shallots with the honey and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Stir
frequently and cook until golden brown and partly crispy, about 5
minutes. Remove from the heat and drain on a paper or kitchen towel.
Season with salt. Allow to cool (the shallots become crispier as they
cool).
2 Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Place the walnuts in a bowl and
pour the boiling water over them. Let sit until the walnuts are soft,
about 15 minutes. Drain and combine the walnuts with the cold water,
tofu, vinegar, garlic, and the remaining salt in a food processor. Blend
until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Mixing constantly, add the remaining oil.
(The mixture will be thick and saucy, but if you prefer dip consistency,
let sit for a few hours in the fridge.) Season with salt and pepper.
3 Place the cucumbers in a large resealable bag and season with salt.
Using a rolling pin or mallet, smash the cucumbers until they explode
and begin to release their juices. Let sit to release their water, about 15
minutes.
4 Drain the cucumber chunks and discard the liquid. In a medium bowl,
combine the cucumbers with the chile and basil. Season with salt and
pepper.
5 Spread the tofu walnut sauce on the bottom of a medium bowl. Place
the cucumber mixture on top and sprinkle the fried shallots over it.
Spread the tofu walnut sauce on your morning toast. It tastes just as good.
ZUCCHINI CARPACCIO
with fried capers, mint, and parmesan
Z ucchini has a bad reputation because it’s mostly water, which means that often Lady Courgette
doesn’t have much taste (especially overgrown ones) and is impossible to make crispy. So look for
baby zucchini—it has more flavor, with sweet, grassy notes, and is available during the summer
months. H ere, it’s raw and finely sliced, tossed with the zing of lemon and topped with the deep
umami of Parmesan cheese. The salty, crispy fried capers are the “it” factor, making this
zucchini so delightful.
SERVES 4
Sea salt
1 Drain the capers and dry them with a paper or kitchen towel.
2 Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Fry
the capers until golden and crispy, about 3 minutes. Remove from the
heat, place the capers on a paper or kitchen towel, and allow to cool.
3 Toss the zucchini with the lemon juice, soy sauce, mint, and the
remaining oil. Season with salt and pepper.
4 Place the zucchini on a large serving plate. Sprinkle with the
Parmesan, fried capers, and more mint. Serve immediately.
This dish is perfect in the summer. In the winter, zucchini tastes best when fried or baked.
CABBAGE SALAD
with green sauce, olives, and bryndza cheese
I eagerly await sweetheart cabbage season because it heralds spring. Its leaves are more open
than those of a green cabbage, with a tender texture and a sweeter flavor—perfect for salads and
grilling. Cabbage may have the worst PR of the whole vegetable pantheon but connoisseurs know
that it can be quite vibrant and sexy dressed in a scrumptious sauce. H ere, the sweet and
tempting young spring cabbage is chopped and dipped in a sauce so green that it could be a
cure-all.
SERVES 4
GREEN SAUCE
CABBAGE SALAD
1 To make the green sauce, place the parsley, lemon juice and zest, oil,
garlic, shallot, Pecorino Romano, hazelnuts, and salt in a blender or
food processor. Blend until smooth. Season with more salt, if needed.
2 To make the salad, in a large bowl, toss the cabbage, cucumber, olives,
and the green sauce until fully combined. You can chill it in the
refrigerator or serve immediately; it’s delicious both ways. Serve with
the bryndza cheese.
Before adding the cheese, you can store the salad for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
TOMATOES AND GOLDEN BERRIES
with fermented caesar dressing and parmesan
For a long time, I thought every Caesar dressing needed anchovies for their deep umami flavor.
H owever, after overlooking a jar of ogórki kiszone, fermented pickles, in my fridge a million
times, I was finally inspired to create a Caesar dressing with the fermented salt-brine from the
pickle jar. The result was magic. Tomatoes are the perfect vessel for this Caesar dressing, topped
with golden berries (also known as Polish gems). If you can’t find golden berries at your local
grocery store, replace them with dried cranberries and drizzle the dish with lemon juice.
SERVES 4
1 garlic clove
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan, Dziugas, or Szafir cheese, plus more for serving
1 Place the egg yolk, garlic, pickle brine, mayonnaise, mustard, and
cheese in a food processor. Blend until smooth, about 2 minutes.
2 Pour the oil into a measuring cup with a spout. Blending constantly,
add the oil in a thin stream until the dressing becomes creamy and
thick. Season with salt and pepper.
3 Spread 2 to 3 dollops of the dressing on a large serving plate. Arrange
the tomatoes over the dressing and season with salt. Drizzle with more
dressing and garnish with the dried golden berries, grated cheese, and
thyme.
This Caesar dressing is a great addition to any vegetable. Replace the tomatoes with cucumbers,
panfried Brussels sprouts, or blanched asparagus.
SERVES 4
10.5 ounces (300 g) mixed greens, such as romaine, iceberg, butter lettuce, or baby red leaf
1 cup (30 g) mixed herbs, such as cilantro, parsley, chives, mint, dill, or tarragon
1 Heat the oil in a small saucepan. Add the shallot and the salt. Cook
until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour the
mixture into a dish. Allow to cool.
2 In a jar, combine the mustard, lemon juice, and the shallot mixture.
Close tightly and shake to combine. Season with pepper.
3 Place the greens and herbs in a large bowl, and dress with enough
vinaigrette for the salad to be fully coated but not soggy. Add the
blackberries and drizzle with lemon juice.
This vinaigrette makes the salad tasty on its own, but I recommend adding fruits like
blackberries, raspberries, Granny Smith apples, pears, strawberries, or even cherry tomatoes.
BEET-KOHLRABI SURÓWKI
with pistachios, cilantro, and horseradish
For my sociology master’s thesis, I interviewed a few Polish members of Parliament. I asked
them what they consider to be a distinguishing feature of Polish cuisine. One of them, without
hesitation, said “surówki”: salads made with fresh, grated vegetables, most often apples, carrots,
and sweetheart cabbage. During the summer, I like to prepare surówki with baby beetroots and
kohlrabi, enhancing their flavor with refreshing lime juice, pistachios, and horseradish.
SERVES 4
1 cup (18 g) loosely packed cilantro, chopped, plus more for garnish
1 Grate the beets and kohlrabi on the large holes of a box grater or shred
in a food processor. (I use a food processor so I don’t stain my hands.)
2 Place the beets and kohlrabi in a large bowl. Add the horseradish, lime
juice, oil, salt, most of the cilantro, and the pistachios. Season with
pepper. Toss the salad until combined and let sit for about 15 minutes.
Season with more salt or lime juice to taste (the surówka should be
zingy, sweet, and crunchy). Garnish with the horseradish and the
remaining cilantro.
If you are among the 4 to 20 percent of people who find that cilantro has a soap-like flavor, you
can replace it with parsley. (Using parsley gives this dish even more Polish flair.)
This surówki tastes even better after a night in the fridge, although it will lose a bit of its crunchy
texture.
ROMAINE LETTUCE AND RADISH
with sunflower cream and scallions
My grandmother would often serve us sour cream– coated lettuce with a cooked egg and spring
vegetables for lunch. Times have changed, and so have our preferences. My contemporary
version doesn’t look like the original but does the job with flying colors and pairs well with
almost anything. I have replaced the soft butter lettuce with romaine, which has a more pleasant
crunchy mouthfeel, and the dairy dressing with sunflower seed cream, which has a divine, earthy
flavor.
SERVES 2 TO 4
¼ cup (35 g) lightly toasted sunflower seeds, plus 3 tablespoons for serving
2 medium heads romaine lettuce, leaves separated, washed, and lightly torn
1 In a small pot, bring ½ cup (120 ml) water to a boil. Place ¼ cup (35
g) of the sunflower seeds in a medium bowl and cover with the boiling
water. Let the sunflower seeds soak until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain
and place in a food processor with the cold water, oil, vinegar, and
salt, and season with pepper. Process until smooth, about 3 minutes.
Season with more salt, pepper, vinegar, or water, if desired.
2 Toss the romaine lettuce in the sunflower cream. Top with the
radishes, scallions, mint, and remaining sunflower seeds.
Sunflower cream can be made one week in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.
CRUNCHY BROCCOLI AND HAZELNUTS
with grapes, apples, and spicy honey dressing
I was nineteen years old when I learned that broccoli can be eaten raw. It’s the total opposite of
the watery, overcooked, faded green broccoli of the school cafeteria. And it is most nutritious
when eaten raw. For the best taste and texture, it’s crucial to chop it into bite-size pieces and
combine it with complementary tastes and textures, such as apple, grapes, and hazelnuts. A honey
dressing with red pepper flakes binds everything together.
SERVES 4
1 teaspoon honey
1 cup (150 g) seedless purple grapes, halved (green are fine, too)
1 Place the shallots in a small bowl. Cover with ice water and let sit for
5 to 10 minutes while you chop the ingredients for the salad. Drain the
shallots well.
2 In a small jar, mix the honey, vinegar, salt, red pepper flakes, and
mustard. Stir in the oil. Close the jar tightly and shake. Adjust the
seasoning.
3 In a medium bowl, toss the broccoli, apple, hazelnuts, and grapes with
the shallots and the dressing. Season with pepper.
This salad can be made one day in advance (it’s great for a work lunch!). Store in the fridge and
bring to room temperature before serving.
Stovetop
TENDER / J UICY / GENTLE
Boiling and simmering are the epitome of maternal care. Made with
love, the meal bubbles in a large pot over the stovetop, ready to feed the
whole family. While I’m usually cooking for one, I’ll either have enough
for myself tomorrow or for a surprise visit from a friend. A stovetop
meal is usually simple, nutritious, and comforting when placed in a bowl
swirling with steam. It is a perfect dish to eat from your favorite cozy
chair or sofa.
Autumn Sauerkraut Bigos with Butternut Squash, Porcini, and Grapes
(page 43) is a dish that tastes even better the next day, when its sweet and
sour flavors marinate overnight, creating the perfect melody. I scoop up a
heaping ladleful of Creamy Lentil Soup with Beet Greens, Crispy
Chickpeas, and Dill (page 37), because I know its warmth will embrace
me after a long day. Stews like Miso Red Cabbage Stew (page 38)
remind me that comforting and bold flavors can go hand in hand.
Boiling and simmering can also be intermediate steps within the
recipe preparation: boiling pearl barley before tossing it with pickled red
onion, fried fennel, and Parmesan (see page 34), or simmering potatoes
before blending them with roasted celeriac to fill pierogi served with a
dollop of sour cream and a drizzle of dill oil (see page 33). It can take on
yet another dimension, cooking grains in a small amount of liquid,
stirring often and feeding them with broth until they swell grandly. No
matter where they fall in the cooking process, boiling and simmering are
very forgiving techniques that rely on intuition.
The rules are simple: When you cook vegetables or dumplings, fill a
large pot with generously salted water. Don’t worry, vegetables or
dumplings will only absorb a small portion of the salt. Most of it will be
drained after the food has finished cooking. In addition, green vegetables
cooked in heavily salted water are pleasantly firm and maintain their
bright color.
The biggest mistake you can make is rushing. Once everything is in
the pot, turn the heat down to medium or low, so that the water maintains
a gentle boil.
A FEW TIPS
SERVES 4
If you can’t find marjoram, use fresh oregano. It has a slightly similar taste (peppery, earthy, and
herbaceous).
It is best to use homemade vegetable broth, but if you don’t have this on hand, just cook the
risotto in lightly salted water or with a dash of soy sauce.
SERVES 4
DOUGH
3½ cups (450 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and handling
¼ cup (60 ml) cold-pressed rapeseed oil or extra virgin olive oil
FILLING
1 tablespoon honey
1 To make the pierogi dough, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl.
In a separate bowl, combine the warm water and oil. Slowly add the
liquid mixture to the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until
the dough is well combined. Turn the dough out onto a clean, lightly
floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes, until it is smooth and
supple. Invert a bowl over the dough and let it rest at room
temperature for 15 minutes, to allow the gluten to develop.
2 Divide the dough into three equal pieces. Place one piece on a lightly
floured surface. Cover the remaining dough with a clean kitchen towel
to keep it from drying out. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to a
thickness of just less than 1/8 inch (3 mm), lifting up the dough to dust
the surface with flour to prevent sticking, if needed.
3 Using a pastry cutter or inverted glass, cut out 2½-inch (6 cm) circles
of dough. Roll out the circles to 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide. Gather the
dough scraps into a ball and set aside. Continue making circles with
the two remaining pieces of dough and with the remaining combined
scraps, until there are 30 to 50 circles.
4 To make the filling, in a medium bowl, combine the goat cheese,
honey, marjoram, and salt. Season with pepper.
5 Put 1 tablespoon of the filling in the center of each round, leaving a ¾-
inch (2 cm) border. Lift the edge of the dough over the filling to form
it into a semicircle. Press down along the border and pinch the dough
to seal the edges completely. If the edges don’t adhere, brush them
lightly with water and press again. If there are any gaps, the pierogi
may open during cooking.
6 Transfer the finished pierogi to a lightly floured kitchen towel and
cover with another towel to prevent drying. Continue until all the
pierogi are formed.
7 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Use a slotted spoon to
gently lower 10 to 15 pierogi at a time into the pot. When the pierogi
rise to the surface, continue to cook them for 1 to 2 minutes, then
transfer them with a spoon to a colander to drain.
8 Cook the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat until it turns
golden brown and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat.
9 To serve, divide the pierogi among plates. Drizzle with the brown
butter and top with the marjoram and a dollop of sour cream.
Uncooked pierogi can be stored for up to 2 months. Freeze on baking sheets for about 1 hour,
then transfer to a resealable plastic bag. Boil them straight from the freezer, adding 2 minutes to
the overall cooking time.
POTATO AND SMOKED TWARÓG PIEROGI
with roasted celeriac and dill oil
Nothing can dethrone the Polish national dish, pierogi ruskie, but after the R ussian army invaded
Ukraine, many Polish restaurants renamed the dish from ruskie (R uthenian) to Ukraińskie
(Ukrainian), even though the dish has nothing to do with R ussia. The name actually refers to R ed
R uthenia, a historical region on the border between Poland and Ukraine. Along with the
traditional potato filling, I’ve incorporated roasted celeriac, which has an umami, almost meaty
flavor. Served with brown butter, the dumplings are good, but if they’re served with bright-green
dill oil, everyone will be too stunned to speak.
SERVES 4
DILL OIL
FILLING
1 To make the dill oil, bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the
dill and blanch for 30 seconds, to slightly soften and brighten the herb.
Remove and immediately place the dill in an ice bath or rinse in cold
water. Drain the dill and pat dry with a paper or kitchen towel. Place
the dill in a blender and add the oil and salt. Process until smooth,
about 3 minutes. If the mixture feels too thick, add a little more oil.
2 Line a sieve with three layers of cheesecloth or a coffee filter. Pour the
oil mixture into the sieve and let drain for a few hours, stirring
occasionally until you get beautifully green oil. Do not press the oil
mixture through the sieve.
3 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
4 To make the filling, poke about 30 holes into each celeriac with a
sharp knife. Place in a shallow medium baking dish. Add the oil and
salt, massaging the oil into the celeriac. Roast in the oven for about 2
hours, depending on the celeriac sizes, basting every 20 minutes, until
they are deeply browned and soft. Remove from the oven and allow to
cool for 15 minutes, then chop into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces.
5 Bring a medium pot of generously salted water to a boil. Put the
potatoes in and cook until soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and return
them to the pot. Mash the potatoes, add the Twaróg and Parmesan, and
mash them again. Mix in the roasted celeriac and the caraway seeds.
Season with salt and pepper.
6 To make the pierogi dough, follow the instructions on page 30; fill,
cook, and drain the pierogi.
7 To serve, divide the pierogi among plates. Top with a dollop of sour
cream, drizzle with the dill oil, and sprinkle over the caraway seeds.
If the recipe looks too time-consuming, you can divide the work over several days. This is a
project with a delightful reward! The dill oil can be made a week in advance, transferred to a
bottle, and stored in the refrigerator. You can also roast the celeriac 3 days ahead.
¼ cup (60 ml) apple cider vinegar, or white or red wine vinegar
SERVES 4 TO 6
SOUP
2 shallots, chopped
CRISPY CHICKPEAS
1 To make the soup, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add
the shallots, garlic, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Cook until the shallots
are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook until the
mixture starts getting darker around the sides, about 3 minutes. Add
the horseradish, smoked paprika, and marjoram, and stir.
2 Add the lentils, tomatoes, coconut milk, soy sauce, the remaining salt,
and 3 cups (720 ml) water to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a
simmer. Cook until the lentils are tender and the soup thickens, about
25 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the beet greens.
3 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a baking sheet with
parchment paper.
4 Dry the chickpeas very well with paper or kitchen towel to prevent
them from exploding in the oven if any water remains. When the
chickpeas are very dry, put them on the baking sheet. Add the smoked
paprika, salt, and oil to the chickpeas and toss to combine. Roast in the
oven until crispy, about 25 minutes.
5 To serve, divide the soup among bowls. Top with the chickpeas, the
horseradish, and the dill.
Crispy chickpeas may quickly become soggy in the soup. To prevent this, don’t add the topping
to your bowl all at once. Instead, keep it on the table and add more to your bowl when you want
it.
SERVES 4
¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil
One 15-ounce (425 g) can white beans, such as cannellini, drained and rinsed
1 Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms
and cook until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Don’t stir for the first 2
minutes, otherwise the mushrooms will release too much liquid.
Remove from the heat. Place a paper or kitchen towel over a plate and
with a slotted spoon, transfer the mushrooms to the plate to drain.
Season with salt.
2 Place the same pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic, and
salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it is soft but has not taken on
any color, about 5 minutes. Add the cumin and smoked paprika, and
cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato paste and
cook until dark in color, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the beans and cook,
stirring occasionally, until they are warm and covered in spices, 2 to 3
minutes. Measure out 1 cup (about 170 g) of the mixture and save for
serving.
3 Add the cabbage and vegetable broth. Bring to a boil, and cook,
covered, over low heat until the cabbage has softened, 10 to 15
minutes. Add the miso paste and stir to dissolve. Season with pepper.
4 Heat a small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Place the lemon
wedges in it, cut side down. Caramelize them on both sides until
slightly charred, about 5 minutes. Season the stew with the juice of
half a charred lemon.
5 Divide the stew among bowls. Top with the reserved beans and the
dill. Serve with the remaining charred lemon.
You can make this stew with savoy, green, or baby cabbage instead. Chickpeas can replace the
white beans.
A WAY TO GULASZ
This is not a recipe but a formula to follow to feed yourself and your
loved ones with a gulasz, or stew, that will satisfy even the most
demanding folks.
AUTUMN SAUERKRAUT BIGOS
with butternut squash, porcini, and grapes
Warming stews are essential on chilly autumn nights. Bigos is Polish stew typically made with
cabbage, sauerkraut, and sausage. Anyone who has tried the vegetarian version can attest that it
has a complex flavor. I take advantage of the best ingredients that fall has to offer: butternut
squash, porcini mushrooms, and red grapes. This sweet addition may seem strange to some, but
Poles have been adding gooseberry jam to this dish since the eighteenth century. Its sweet touch
nicely contrasts the stew’s acidity.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 teaspoon cumin
6 bay leaves
6 allspice berries
6 cloves
Bigos is one of those special dishes that tastes better with each passing day, so make a big batch
and enjoy!
SERVES 2
1 To make the umami sauce, place the mushrooms, soy sauce, and 6
cups (1.4 L) water in a medium pot. Bring to a boil and cook over
medium-high heat until the liquid is reduced by half, about 15
minutes. Remove the mushrooms and save them for another use.
2 Add the kopytka to the umami sauce and cook according to the
package directions. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the dumplings to a
plate. Reserve 1 cup (240 ml) of the umami sauce used to cook the
kopytka.
3 Pour ½ cup (120 ml) of the umami sauce in a pot and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to medium-low. Whisk in the butter 1 tablespoon at a
time until melted and the sauce is creamy and emulsified, gradually
adding more umami sauce if necessary. Add the sesame oil and miso
paste, and whisk until combined.
4 Add the remaining umami sauce, cooked kopytka, and the spinach.
Cook until the spinach is wilted, about 1 minute.
5 Divide the kopytka among plates. Serve topped with the hazelnuts and
Poppy Furikake (see below).
POPPY FURIKAKE
2 sheets nori
1 teaspoon sugar
1 Toast the poppy and sesame seeds in a medium skillet over medium
heat stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Place on a
plate and cool completely. Put the seeds and the bonito flakes, nori,
sugar, and salt in a food processor. Using the pulse mode, mix until
powdery.
2 Store in a tightly closed jar in a cool, dry place, for up to a month.
(You will probably use it much sooner.)
If you cannot find bonito flakes, swap these for dulse (red seaweed) and use 3 sheets of nori.
DREAMY WHITE BEANS
with smoky mayo
It amazes me how people treat beans differently depending on how they are served. When beans
swim in a soup or stew, they are often considered boring. But when beans are bathed in olive oil
and various spices, and served alongside a glass of natural wine, they suddenly become the
coolest. These are such beans. The trick is to cook them in an aromatic broth instead of water.
You’ll want to serve them as a snack at all your parties.
SERVES 4
½ red onion
SMOKY MAYO
3 tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil or olive oil, plus more for serving
1 Place the beans in a large pot and cover with 4 cups (960 ml) water.
Let soak overnight or for at least 12 hours. (The beans will cook faster
and be more digestible the next day.)
2 Drain the beans and place them back in the large pot. Add the leek, red
onion, garlic head, and mixed herbs. Cover with enough water to
submerge the beans. Add the salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat, then reduce to medium-low. Remove the leek, red onion, garlic,
and mixed herbs, and save them for another use. Simmer the beans,
uncovered, until they are tender and creamy, 80 to 90 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, make the smoky mayo. Whisk the egg yolks, lemon juice,
garlic clove, and salt in a deep, medium bowl. Combine the vegetable
oil and rapeseed oil in a measuring cup with a spout. In a slow, steady
stream, add the oil mixture to the egg mixture, about 1 tablespoon at a
time, whisking constantly. To make this process easier, place a damp
kitchen towel under the bowl to stabilize it while whisking, as you’ll
be using both hands. Make sure each addition is completely
incorporated before stirring in more. It will be a saucy mayo; if you
prefer it thicker, add more oil. Mix in the smoked paprika.
4 Serve the beans on a small plate. Top with a scoop of the mayo, drizzle
with lemon juice and rapeseed oil, and sprinkle with smoked paprika
and a bit of salt.
If you don’t plan on using all of the beans at once, refrigerate them in the broth.
BABY POTATOES AND ASPARAGUS
with cracked black pepper–vodka sauce
I’m obsessed with baby potatoes. As soon as they show up at the farmers market with the first
signs of summer, my diet becomes monothematic. I like them most when covered in a lavish
amount of butter and dill and served with a glass of chilled buttermilk. H owever, I like innovation
and experimentation, too. This recipe is slightly inspired by Italian cacio e pepe; I coat the
potatoes in a divine sauce of cracked black pepper and bison grass vodka. They’re also tossed
with blanched green asparagus and sprinkled with aged cheese. After the first bite, you’ll want to
eat these peppery potatoes every day.
1 pound (450 g) baby or other small waxy potatoes, such as fingerling, halved if large
1 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook
until completely tender, 20 to 25 minutes, depending on their size.
One minute before they’re ready, add the asparagus. Drain the
vegetables.
2 Coarsely crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle or place in a
resealable plastic bag and crush with a small saucepan. They should be
a lot coarser than ground pepper.
3 Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot,
garlic, and the cracked peppercorns, and cook, swirling the pan, until
the shallot is translucent, about 5 minutes.
4 Add the vodka and cook until it evaporates, about 1 minute. Remove
from the heat and stir in the heavy cream. Add the cooked potatoes
and asparagus. Cook until the veggies are nicely coated with the black
pepper sauce, about 1 minute.
5 Transfer to a plate and top with the Pecorino Romano. Season with salt
and serve.
SERVES 4
When I share that I’ve steamed something, I’m often asked if I’ve gone
on a diet. Steaming may not seem like the most appetizing method, but
this is because it was once promoted as the only “ right,” or healthy,
method for cooking, as it is the technique that achieves a moist
consistency without losing flavor, as long as you season the food so the
meal doesn’t taste bland.
There are some vegetables that I always steam. Broccoli, for instance,
becomes watery when boiled, but when steamed, it softens and becomes
sweet. Leek tastes equally delightful: subtle and delicate. Corn is also
great; its sweetness is emphasized and the kernels become divinely juicy.
It just begs to be smeared with lavender-thyme butter (see page 54). But
steaming isn’t limited only to vegetables. Using steam, you can prepare
grains, like rice or millet, or yeasted steamed buns, like parowańce (see
page 58). Steaming produces grains and buns as fluffy as cotton candy.
EQUIPMENT
You can use a pot with a steaming insert (you can buy the insert
separately; it doesn’t need to be a special pot), a bamboo steamer, or an
oven with a steam setting, though the latter is far more expensive than
the first two. If you’re new to steaming, I would advise a bamboo
steamer with two levels and a large diameter.
HOW TO
Contrary to popular belief, steam doesn’t need much time to soften the
structure of a vegetable. It’s important to fill the pot with enough water
so that it doesn’t evaporate completely. However, it can’t touch the
steamer. One more thing: Don’t lift the lid of the steamer many times
throughout cooking to check on your vegetables or buns. If done too
many times, your food will never cook!
TO SERVE
Since steaming is fat-free, it’s important to season your food well. It’s
best to do this after the steaming process, so that the spices or oil do not
run off the veggies. Salt and a dash of olive oil or other cold-pressed oil
are obligatory here. These are the two most powerful flavor carriers!
Sauces like Umami Bomb Sauce (page 57) are also a great fit here. Don’t
skip the seasoning step.
STEAMED CORN
with lavender-thyme butter
There are a few ways to make corn, but steaming is the quickest, sweetest, and most versatile.
Corn is a blank canvas. Corn season is in full swing at the same time as fresh lavender, which is
a happy coincidence. When you mash fresh lavender and thyme into soft butter and slather it
generously on the ears of corn, you get a taste of heaven.
SERVES 4
4 corn ears
½ cup (1 stick/113 g) butter, at room temperature
I find it easier to cut the corn in three pieces, to avoid dripping butter all over.
Didn’t use all of the lavender butter? Spread it on your morning challah toast.
STEAMED EGGPLANT LETTUCE TACOS
with umami bomb sauce and sesame seeds
I adore eggplant—but baking or panfrying it requires a lot of oil, and eggplant soaks it up like a
sponge. I’ve accepted the challenge of preparing eggplant in a different, healthier way: steaming.
The secret to flavorful steamed eggplant is this Umami Bomb Sauce. It’s so delicious, you’ll want
to eat it with everything. Flour tortillas are difficult to get in Poland, so romaine lettuce is a great
alternative. It holds the eggplant filling well and is crisp, fresh, and flavorful.
SERVES 4
½ teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon coriander
You can serve the prepared ingredients on a big plate, so your guests can make their own tacos.
It’s so much fun!
STEAMED BUNS
1 teaspoon sugar
1 large egg
1 egg yolk
1 To make the buns, combine the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt in the bowl
of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the milk, egg, egg
yolk, and oil. Knead on medium speed until the dough is soft, 8 to 10
minutes.
2 Drizzle with oil and cover the bowl with a kitchen towel. Let sit in a
warm place until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.
3 Turn out the dough onto a floured surface and divide into six equal
pieces. Shape each piece into a round bun, with the seam on the
bottom. Cover with a kitchen towel and let sit for 20 minutes, until
risen and puffy.
4 Bring a large saucepan or small pot of water to a boil. Place a metal or
bamboo steamer inside so it sits above the water. Place 2 to 3 buns in
the basket, leaving plenty of room between them. Cover and steam
until the buns are well risen and fully cooked, about 15 minutes.
Remove the buns, set aside, and repeat with the remaining dough.
5 To make the filling and sauce, combine the tahini and soy sauce in a
medium bowl. Stir in ½ cup (120 ml) water, 1 tablespoon at a time,
until the sauce becomes thin. Add the lemon juice and garlic, and
season with salt and pepper.
6 Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fava beans and cook until
tender, 8 to 15 minutes (fava beans cook quicker at the beginning of
the season). Transfer to a colander and rinse with very cold running
water. Let sit until cool and then remove the skins.
7 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat (make sure the
skillet is hot or the mushrooms will be soggy). Cook the mushrooms
without stirring for the first 2 to 3 minutes, then continue until golden
and crispy, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the
mushrooms from the skillet and place on a paper or kitchen towel.
Season with salt and pepper and combine with the fava beans.
8 To serve, slit the buns on top, hot dog style. Slather with the tahini
sauce and stuff with the mushrooms and fava beans. Drizzle with more
sauce and top with mint.
You can make everything one day ahead, but the mushrooms taste best straight from the pan.
Reheat the buns by steaming for 3 minutes.
STEAMED RAINBOW VEGGIES
with herby broth and carrot-green pesto
Traditional food culture often teaches us to use the main part of vegetables, but veggie peels and
greens are full of flavor, too! Meat lovers say, “nose to tail”—I say, “stem to leaf.” I once had a
cooking session with Polish chef Przemek Błaszczyk, during which we discussed how to cook with
less waste without compromising flavor. H e showed me these steamed rainbow veggies, cooked
with their peels, served in herby broth, and topped with carrot-green pesto. This dish is a
delicious definition of the “stem to leaf” philosophy.
SERVES 4
1½ cup (90 g) mixed herbs, such as thyme, lovage, sage, parsley, with tender leaves and
stems
1 onion, halved
1 Cut the greens from the carrots and reserve. Thoroughly wash and peel
the carrots and the beets, and place the peels in a large pot. Add 1 cup
(54 g) of the mixed herbs and the onion and peppercorns. Cover with 6
cups (1.4 L) water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let simmer,
uncovered, until the broth is richly flavored, about 40 minutes. Season
with about 1 teaspoon of the salt.
2 Let the broth cool slightly, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a
large bowl.
3 Halve the carrots and cut the beets into eighths.
4 Bring a large saucepan or small pot of water to a boil. Place a metal or
bamboo steamer inside so it sits above the water. Arrange the carrots,
beets, and potatoes in the steamer, cover, and steam until fork-tender,
about 35 minutes.
5 To make the pesto, place 1 cup (54 g) of the carrot greens in a blender
or food processor. Add the remaining mixed herbs, the sunflower
seeds, oil, lemon juice, and the remaining salt. Blend until smooth, but
slightly chunky. Season with salt and pepper.
6 Serve the steamed veggies with the broth. You can use it as a sauce,
pour it over the veggies, or divide it among bowls as soup. Top with
the Twaróg mixed with the pesto.
Any kind of potato will work for this recipe, but violet potatoes add a vibrant color to the dish.
You probably won’t use all the broth for this recipe, so store the extra for future use. It will keep
for 3 days in the refrigerator, or it can be frozen.
This recipe is a true no-recipe recipe. Use whichever vegetables, herbs, and seeds/nuts you have.
• Arugula
• Carrot leaves
• Parsley leaves
• Radish leaves
• Dill
• Lovage
VEGGIES YOU CAN STEAM AND USE THEIR PEELS FOR BROTH:
• Parsley root
• Parsnip
• Celeriac
SPICED MILLET AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH
with bay leaf, cinnamon, and allspice
Millet is one of the healthiest grains. H owever, it can be difficult to prepare properly—it should
be fluffy and without a bitter taste. One of the techniques that’s particularly effective when
making enough for a large crowd is steaming it in the oven, with a tight cover of aluminum foil.
Once cooked, mix the millet with a splash of brown butter—it’s so good like this, I could eat it
without any additions.
SERVES 4
2 cinnamon sticks
½ small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped into large pieces
You can select which spices you would like to use, but be sure to use whole leaves and grains—
not ground spices. Whole spices impart their flavor more slowly and are best for long-simmered
recipes like this one.
This spiced millet can be served with the butternut squash to make a meal, or on its own as a side
dish.
STEAMED LEEKS
with sour cream, panko-coated egg, and green crisps
This dish has an almost exclusively unconventional approach. A zero-waste treatment of leeks:
The green parts, which are typically thrown in the trash, are transformed when fried in a bath of
oil. The whites are steamed rather than boiled or panfried, in order to keep their taste pristine.
The dish is topped with panko-coated eggs with runny yolks. This is the type of dish that will
make your friends say, “Wow, you made this yourself? ”
Feel free to skip either the crispy green tops or the panko-coated eggs, if you only want one of
them to be the star “ crunch.”
Smashed & Blended
V ELV ETY / CREAMY / COMFY
There are a few ways to smash and blend. You can choose your own.
1. COUNTERTOP BLENDER: Its shape and blade are predisposed for
blending soups and smoothies, but it can also handle dips. I typically use
it to make my post-workout protein smoothie.
2. FOOD PROCESSOR: A fan favorite that can turn any ingredient into a
velvety cream or smooth flour and can make quick mayonnaise, as well.
It’s my go-to device.
3. IMMERSION BLENDER: A tool many of us are likely to have in our
kitchens, it blends everything from soups to spreads and dips. It’s quick
and easy to use, as you can bring the tool right to your pot or bowl. (No
need to transfer to another device, like a food processor.)
4. POTATO RICER:My favorite gadget in the kitchen, this turns potatoes
into heavenly mash that melts in the mouth. Do yourself a favor and get
one!
5. FORK: Sometimes, just a fork is more than enough. You can use it when
you don’t need to achieve a perfectly creamy texture and don’t want to
wash the extra dishes. Think of smashing avocado on your morning
toast. Try it with canned chickpeas, then add a splash of olive oil and a
dash of marjoram.
MAKES 10 TO 15 SLICES
3 bay leaves
1 Heat a large dry skillet over medium-high heat. Add the walnuts and
toast, tossing frequently, until tiny black spots appear. Remove from
the heat immediately and set the walnuts aside in a small bowl to cool.
2 Heat the oil in the same skillet over medium heat. Add the onion,
garlic, bay leaves, and salt, and cook until soft, about 8 minutes. Add
the thyme and smoked paprika, and cook until intensely fragrant,
about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and cook until tender, 5 to 6
minutes.
3 Increase the heat to high, add the wine, and let it evaporate completely.
Remove the bay leaves and discard. Transfer the mixture to a food
processor and add the walnuts, the Parmesan, soy sauce, potato flour,
and 1 cup (240 ml) water. Blend until smooth (the mixture will be
thin).
4 Return the mixture to the skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring with
a silicone spatula, until it thickens slightly and the fat begins to
separate. Transfer to a 16-ounce (475 ml) silicone or aluminum loaf
pan.
5 Allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate, covered with foil,
until firm, 2 to 3 hours. Serve as an appetizer or in the morning, with
bread, for breakfast.
Other types of mushrooms, like button mushrooms, would work well, too. Use whatever you
have!
SMOKED TOFU SPREAD
with chanterelles, cucumber, and nigella seeds
Smoked tofu is a recent Polish phenomenon. It is even easier to find in Polish grocery stores than
traditional tofu. Am I surprised? No. Smoked tofu has a divine, smoldering flavor that is similar
to meat. For those who want to eat less meat, smoked tofu is the perfect solution. I always have a
block or two in my fridge. I like to make it into a dip and serve it with mushrooms and other
vegetables or salty crackers. It can even be the main course for dinner. And if you have leftovers,
it tastes stunning smeared on morning toast.
SERVES 2 TO 4
SPREAD
1 garlic clove
Juice of ½ lemon
TOPPING
2 tablespoons butter
1 Place the cold water, tofu, oil, hazelnut butter, garlic, and lemon juice
in a food processor. Process until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes.
2 To clean the chanterelles, place them in a large bowl. Coat them in the
flour and cover with the cold water. Using a slotted spoon, remove the
chanterelles from the water and wash them in a fine-mesh sieve. Place
them on a paper or kitchen towel and pat dry.
3 Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook the
chanterelles until soft, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
4 Transfer the smoked tofu spread to a serving bowl and top with the
chanterelles and the cucumber. Garnish with the nigella seeds.
Nigella seeds, also called black cumin seeds, are a South Asian ingredient with a beautiful aroma.
Check your local or specialty grocery store for them. I also highly recommend sprinkling them
over buns, bread, or focaccia. In case you can’t get them, use regular cumin seeds.
CHICKPEA SPREAD
with caramelized onions and parsley
Caramelized onions are one of the best things in the world. One of my favorite ways to enjoy this
spread is on my sandwich in the morning. When my day starts with something so delicious, the
rest of day can only be better for it.
SERVES 4 TO 6
3 bay leaves
1 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, bay
leaves, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the brown sugar. Cook over low
heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and caramelized, about
25 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and discard.
2 Place the chickpeas in a food processor with the cold water and the
remaining salt. Blend until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the
caramelized onions (save some for the garnish) and the lemon juice
and parsley. Pulse once or twice to combine. Season with pepper.
3 Transfer to a serving bowl. Top with the remaining caramelized onions
and season with more pepper. Serve with your favorite bread and dill
pickles.
You can replace chickpeas with white beans, and white onion can be replaced with shallots or red
onion.
ROASTED EGGPLANT AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO DIP
with polish dukkah
Eggplant can sometimes seem a bit bland, but it’s so easy to enhance its natural taste. Baba
ganoush, a Middle Eastern eggplant dip, is made with tahini and eggplant that has been charred
on the stove to create a smoky flavor. But if you like to skip steps to make your life easier like me,
you can cheat a bit. I roast the eggplants in the oven for a very long time, until they are just
starting to burn ever so slightly. I scoop out the flesh and combine it with smoked paprika, tomato
paste, and sun-dried tomatoes for meatiness. A crunchy garnish is the perfect finish. I combine
nigella (aka black cumin) and sunflower seeds into a Polish version of Egyptian dukkah. Prepare
a double serving of this dukkah; you’ll want to have it on hand to sprinkle on everything!
SERVES 4
DIP
¾ cup (105 g) sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil (preferably herb-flavored), chopped, plus 3
tablespoons sun-dried tomato oil
POLISH DUKKAH
1½ tablespoons walnuts
SERVES 2
¼ cup (20 g) finely grated Pecorino Romano, Szafir, or Dziugas cheese, plus more for
serving
2 tablespoons butter
1 To make the nettle pesto, bring a small pot of water to a boil. Place the
nettle leaves in a big colander, blanch them by pouring the boiling
water over them, then pour ice water on them to stop the cooking.
Squeeze out as much water as you can (you can use your hands, but be
sure the leaves have thoroughly cooled).
2 Place the nettle leaves in a food processor with the oil, lemon juice,
two of the garlic cloves, and the shallot, Pecorino Romano, walnuts,
and salt. Blend roughly, until just combined but with a chunky texture.
3 Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and
cook according to the package instructions, stirring occasionally, until
it is al dente (the pasta will finish cooking in the sauce). Reserve 1½
cups (360 ml) of the pasta water and then drain the pasta.
4 Place the butter and the remaining garlic clove in a medium skillet.
Cook over low heat until the butter begins to brown, about 5 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the garlic and save it for another use.
Add the radishes, asparagus, and a pinch of salt. Cook over medium
heat until the vegetables are tender, about 3 minutes.
5 Add the nettle pesto to the skillet with 1 cup (240 ml) of the reserved
pasta water. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pasta to the skillet with
the pesto and vegetables (it’s okay if a little pasta water comes along
with it). Cook until everything is combined, about 1 minute.
6 Divide the pasta and vegetables among two bowls. Season with
pepper. Drizzle with oil and serve with extra Pecorino Romano.
Radishes that have lost their crunchiness are perfect for this recipe.
I use bucatini in this recipe, but any pasta shape will do.
Although this recipe is all about nettles, if you have trouble finding them, using fresh spinach and
mint is a great alternative.
WHITE BEAN, ROASTED GARLIC, AND MUSHROOM
SPREAD
with horseradish and dill
It may not be the prettiest spread ever—it’s a bit muddy in hue—but Q ueen Nigella Lawson once
stated that sometimes brown food just tastes the finest. You can never have too many mushrooms,
so I top this spread with mushrooms that are panfried until golden. Don’t skip the dill; it adds a
well-needed fresh touch.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2 garlic heads
1 pound (450 g) mushrooms (any variety, such as button, oyster, porcini, or milk cap),
halved if large
One 15-ounce can (425 g) white beans, such as cannellini, drained and rinsed
BUCKWHEAT PORRIDGE
with homemade chocolate hazelnut spread and raspberries
When I was younger, the chocolate hazelnut spread, Nutella, was my favorite. I ate it almost
every day, spread on waffles, toast, and even straight from the jar. Now, I make a homemade
version that is not as sweet and consists of healthier ingredients, so I can enjoy it guilt-free for
breakfast with warm buckwheat porridge.
SERVES 2
Milk or semisweet chocolate? Although I like to use semisweet chocolate to make Homemade
Chocolate Hazelnut Spread for its robust flavor, I also enjoy milk chocolate, because it makes the
spread just as sweet as the original.
BABY POTATOES AND WHIPPED TWARÓG
with brown butter and dill flowers
One of my most vivid childhood food memories is of freshly cooked potatoes smeared with
Twaróg and a glistening, gold pat of cold butter, in which I could see my own reflection. My
grandmother would feed me this simple dish between meals, for “a little hunger.” I did not
object. This recipe is a modern tribute to this snack. The whipped sauce is made from Twaróg and
brown butter, topped with refreshing dill flowers. You’ll want to make this dish over and over, just
as I do.
3 tablespoons butter
1 Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil, add the potatoes,
and cook until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2 Melt the butter in a small pot over medium heat until it begins to foam
and brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with salt.
3 Add the Twaróg and sour cream to a food processor and blend until
smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
4 Transfer the whipped Twaróg to a large plate and top with the cooked
potatoes and the hazelnuts. Drizzle with the brown butter and garnish
with a few sprigs of dill flowers.
Whipped Twaróg is a great dip for any vegetable. It pairs perfectly with crudités, the French word
for raw vegetables.
Confit
RICH / CONCENTRATED / SOFT
3 to 4 basil leaves
Enjoy these confit tomatoes in Creamy Confit Tomato Soup (page 89), in a pasta sauce, with
cooked buckwheat and bryndza, or on a tartine with Twaróg or farmer cheese.
CREAMY CONFIT TOMATO SOUP
It may not include cream or summer-fresh tomatoes, but this will be one of the best tomato soups
you’ve ever eaten.
SERVES 4
⅓ cup (80 ml) olive oil from Cherry Tomato Confit (page 86), plus more for serving
1 medium white onion, chopped
1 teaspoon dried marjoram heads, or 1 tablespoon regular dried marjoram, plus more for
serving
1 Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a medium pan over low heat. Add the
onion and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are
translucent, about 10 minutes.
2 Add the marjoram and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the
chopped tomatoes, ½ cup (100 g) of the confit cherry tomatoes, the
garlic cloves, and vegetable broth. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld together, about
10 minutes.
3 Remove from the heat and use an immersion blender or a blender to
puree the mixture until smooth. Blending constantly, add in the
remaining oil. Season with salt and pepper.
4 To serve, divide the soup among four bowls. Top with the remaining
confit cherry tomatoes and dried marjoram.
It’s worth trying out different brands of canned tomatoes for flavor. Using the best makes a
difference!
SOUR CREAM LABNEH
with cherry tomato confit, fried buckwheat, and sunflower seeds
You may have eaten this Middle Eastern delicacy, labneh, with roasted cherry tomatoes. I adore
the combination of cold yogurt and sizzling, hot tomatoes. But if I didn’t add a Polish twist, I
wouldn’t be myself. I make labneh with sour cream in place of yogurt, because it has a creamier
consistency. I confit cherry tomatoes until they are sweet, rather than roasting them. For crunch:
a topping of fried buckwheat and sunflower seeds that I bet you’ll love as much as I do.
SERVES 4
1 Set a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl. Transfer the sour cream to the
strainer and let drain for at least 8 hours, or overnight in the
refrigerator.
2 In a medium bowl, combine the drained sour cream with the lemon
juice and salt.
3 Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
buckwheat and sunflower seeds, and season with salt. Panfry until
golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes.
4 To serve, spread the sour cream labneh on a serving plate. Top with the
cherry tomato confit and the fried buckwheat and sunflower seeds.
Drizzle with the Cherry Tomato Confit oil. Season with pepper.
4 to 6 rosemary sprigs
1 pound (450 g) mushrooms (any variety, such as button, oyster, porcini, or milk cap),
halved if large
Juice of ½ lemon
1 Place the butter, rosemary, garlic, and salt in a Dutch oven or large pot.
Cook on medium-low heat until the butter melts. Add the mushrooms
and reduce the heat to low. Cook, uncovered, until the mushrooms are
creamy and have absorbed the butter, 30 to 40 minutes. (Don’t allow
the mushrooms to fry.) Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Add
the lemon juice.
2 Pack into jars or storage containers, along with any leftover liquid
(you can also use it in place of regular butter in savory dishes). Reheat
on low for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
NOT-YOUR-AVERAGE KANAPKA
with twarożek and buttery mushroom and rosemary confit
Kanapka, an open-faced sandwich, is a reliable go-to dish—it has saved me from hunger more
than once. The standard is twarożek, a traditional Polish breakfast combination of Twaróg, or
farmer cheese, and sour cream, which makes it slightly milder. But the topping here shines the
most. Silky, buttery mushroom confit pairs beautifully with the acidity of the cheese and punch of
horseradish. Now that’s a sandwich!
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons butter from Buttery Mushroom and Rosemary Confit (page 92), plus 1 cup
(160 g) Buttery Mushroom and Rosemary Confit
1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Place the bread on a baking sheet.
Drizzle it with the confit butter and toast in the oven for about 5
minutes, until crispy and golden brown. Rub one side of each bread
slice with the garlic.
2 To make the twarożek, combine the Twaróg and sour cream in a
medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
3 Top each bread slice with the twarożek and the mushroom confit.
Sprinkle with the horseradish and serve.
Cherry Tomato Confit (page 86) works equally well in this sandwich.
GARLIC CONFIT
“Your lips taste sweet, kind of like garlic,” said my date, whom I kissed passionately as we said
goodbye. Before, I’d eaten toast with smashed garlic confit cooked in an olive oil bath—sweet,
creamy, and caramel-like. This is the highest form that garlic can reach. I’m a garlic bread boy,
so that’s a serious statement. And in case you’re wondering, we went on another date—garlic is a
love charm.
3 garlic heads
• Blend with white beans or chickpeas for a very good spread or dip.
SERVES 2 TO 3
If you don’t have time to confit the garlic, you can roast it using the instructions on page 79.
I tend to prefer square shaped pasta in this recipe, like Polish łazanki or Italian quadretti, but if
you have trouble finding either of these in your local grocery store, any shape of pasta will do the
trick here!
Baked & Roasted
BROWNED / FULL / V IGOROUS
A FEW TIPS
• Don’t overfill a tray when roasting potatoes for french fries or other
diced vegetables, because there won’t be enough room for the steam to
escape. This leads to water seeping in and further cooking the veggies
when they’re supposed to be roasting.
• Rather than swapping the baking sheets while baking or roasting
multiple foods simultaneously on different racks, switch on the fan
circulation; this will help everything cook evenly. The fan circulation
evenly distributes the heat through air movement and heat dissipation,
whereas on the usual setting heat is only released vertically or from
the sides. There is a temperature difference between these two
settings, as well. This means that 350°F (180°C) in a regular
circulation corresponds to 325°F (160°C) in a fan circulation. As a
result, convection allows for quicker, more consistent cooking. But be
careful, there is also a chance of overdrying the food when the fan
circulation is turned on. To prevent this, keep an eye on the food as it
cooks.
• Roasting is particularly beneficial for vegetables with a high sugar
content, such as carrots, beets, squash, and celeriac. The high
temperature concentrates their sugars, resulting in a crunchy skin and
fluffy, honey-sweet flesh.
ROASTED RED PEPPER AND TOMATO SOUP
with panfried olives and pistachios
This soup is a shining example of how roasting vegetables lifts their flavors to new heights. The
red pepper becomes divinely sweet, as do the tomatoes, and the garlic is delightfully caramelized.
No cream or broth is required. The roasting juices make this soup velvety and flavorful. Olives
are delicious raw, and when lightly panfried, they become crunchy and pair with the pistachios
for an outstanding topping. You’ll see after your first spoonful.
SERVES 2 TO 4
2 rosemary sprigs
⅓ cup (60 g) pitted green olives, drained, patted dry, and smashed
To make this soup extra flavorful, use very ripe, sweet tomatoes. They’ll release more juices
while roasting, which, when combined with the oil, will make a fantastically flavorful stock for
the soup.
BROTH
3 bay leaves
4 cloves
2 eggs
1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper. Place the tomatoes on the baking sheet, cut side up.
Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with ¼ cup (60 ml) of the oil and
roast in the oven until soft and caramelized around the edges, 20 to 25
minutes. Divide the tomatoes between two bowls and set them aside.
Pour the liquid from the baking sheet into a medium bowl.
2 Heat a large, cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Char the onion
and leek, cut side down, until browned and caramelized, about 2
minutes. Using tongs or a spatula, remove them from the pan and set
aside.
3 Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add the remaining oil and the bay
leaves, cloves, peppercorns, and allspice. Cook until fragrant, about 1
minute. Add the celeriac, carrots, parsley roots, garlic, mixed herbs,
half of the roasted tomatoes, and the charred onion and leek. Stir in 6
cups (1.4 L) water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer,
uncovered, until the vegetables are fully tender (nearly falling apart),
about 2 hours. Season with salt.
4 Let the broth cool slightly, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a
large bowl. Press the cooked vegetables to release as much liquid as
possible.
5 To make the noodles, whisk together the eggs, sour cream, and salt in
a medium bowl. Whisk in the flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the
mixture resembles a sticky dough. Pour into a measuring cup with a
spout.
6 Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. In a steady stream,
stir in the dough mixture, creating short strands over the entire surface
of the water (stir to ensure the noodles don’t clump together). All of
them will be different and wiggly, but that’s the charm. Boil the
noodles until they rise to the top of the water, about 1 minute. Using a
slotted spoon or small sieve, transfer the noodles to a plate.
7 To serve, divide the remaining roasted tomatoes among 4 bowls and
top with the noodles and the broth.
Making the egg drop noodles yourself may seem like a hassle, but trust me, it’s so much fun and
completely worth it. Store-bought egg noodles also work just as well.
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
with chanterelle sauce, rye croutons, and chives
R oasted cauliflower is the new Sunday roast. It looks spectacular and tastes divine. I enjoy
steamed cauliflower from time to time, but roasted cauliflower tastes even better, with its flavors
concentrated from baking in the oven. I blanket the roasted cauliflower with a chanterelle sauce,
which evokes the coziness of autumn, and rye croutons, to give it a good crunch. A contrast of
textures is the key to a successful dish.
SERVES 4
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
This dish tastes great served hot or at room temperature, so it’s a dinner party keeper. You can
also make the cauliflower and croutons 3 to 4 hours ahead, then serve with freshly made
chanterelle sauce.
CROQUE MADAME
with goat cheese, eggplant, and cheesy mornay sauce
Elegant French cuisine is not very popular in Poland, but we love lavish breakfasts, so a Parisian
brunch in Warsaw often consists of a large, cheesy croque madame, which is also the best cure
for a late night out. Warsaw Parisians (me) tend to replace the ham or other meat that often
comes in this gooey French sandwich with zucchini or eggplant. The second variation is my
favorite, especially when it’s served with goat cheese and thyme.
SERVES 2
2 small eggplants (600 g), cut widthwise into ½-inch (1.25 cm) slices
1 teaspoon butter
2 medium eggs
1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
2 Place the eggplant on the prepared baking sheet. Toss with the thyme
and oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast until golden and soft, about
30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C).
3 To make the Mornay sauce, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over
medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking occasionally,
until fragrant, about 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in the milk and increase
the heat to medium-high. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking
occasionally, until the béchamel thickens, about 4 minutes. Reduce the
heat to medium-low and cook, whisking occasionally, until smooth
and velvety, about 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the
cheddar and Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper.
4 To assemble, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Place
the bread on the prepared baking sheet. Spread the goat cheese over
two of the bread slices and top with the roasted eggplant. Place the
remaining bread slices on top and evenly spread the top of each
sandwich with the Mornay sauce. Roast in the oven until the cheeses
are melted and the top of each sandwich is golden, about 15 minutes.
5 Heat a splash of oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Crack
the eggs into the skillet and fry until the whites are set, about 3
minutes. Season with salt and pepper and top each sandwich with an
egg. Sprinkle with the oregano.
ROASTED EGGPLANT
with crispy buckwheat, mint, and sour cream
Find someone who will look at you the way I look at this roasted eggplant. Under the heat of the
oven, the texture of the eggplant transforms from dense and spongy to velvety and smoky. For
contrast, I serve the eggplant with garlicky sour cream and sprinkle over some fresh mint and
fried buckwheat, a pleasant added crunch.
SERVES 4
1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
2 Score the eggplants with ¼-inch-deep (6 mm) cuts in a grid pattern.
Generously season with salt and coat with the vegetable oil. Place cut
side down on the prepared baking sheet. Roast in the oven until
charred and tender, about 50 minutes, depending on the size of the
eggplant.
3 To prepare the sauce, combine the sour cream, garlic, and a large pinch
of salt in a medium bowl and season with pepper. Mix to combine and
set aside.
4 Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
buckwheat and panfry, stirring often, until crispy and golden brown, 2
to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a small bowl.
5 Spread the sour cream on a large plate or platter. Arrange the eggplant
halves cut side up and sprinkle with the fried buckwheat and the mint.
Drizzle with the rapeseed oil. Season with salt and pepper.
If you can’t find cold-pressed rapeseed oil, which adds a wonderful nutty and earthy taste,
substitute with extra virgin olive oil.
ROASTED MUSHROOMS TO DIE FOR
You won’t believe how good mushrooms can taste. All you need is soy sauce, a bit of honey, and a
dash of smoked paprika. After a quick roast, they’re crispy and packed with deep umami. You can
serve these mushrooms as a main dish accompanied by cooked buckwheat, or use them in Miso
Ż urek with Mashed Potatoes, R oasted Mushrooms, and Dill (page 202).
SERVES 2 TO 4
2 tablespoons honey
1 Place the soy sauce, oil, honey, smoked paprika, bay leaves, and garlic
in a large bowl and combine. Add the mushrooms, stir to coat in the
marinade, and cover the bowl with a paper or kitchen towel. Marinate
for at least 60 minutes (overnight in the fridge will also do the trick).
2 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
3 Pour the mushrooms and marinade onto the baking sheet. Roast in the
oven until golden brown and the sides are crispy, 20 to 25 minutes.
Serve immediately.
BAKED ZUCCHINI
with plums, ginger, and walnuts
In traditional Polish cuisine, plums are not only used in desserts, but also in savory dishes, often
accompanying meats. Based on this idea, I decided to use their sweet, earthy potential to enhance
the flavor of zucchini. I added red pepper flakes, ginger, and garlic. The result is a sweet and
sour delight with a hint of spice.
SERVES 4
2 pounds (900 g) zucchini, yellow and green, cut widthwise into ¾-inch (2 cm) slices
1 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a large rimmed baking sheet
with parchment paper.
2 Place the zucchini on the prepared baking sheet with the plums. Add
the salt.
3 Combine the oil, honey, vinegar, red pepper flakes, garlic, and ginger.
Season with salt and pepper. Pour half of the dressing over the
zucchini and plums. Bake until the zucchini is tender and the plums
are just beginning to break down, about 30 minutes.
4 Top with the walnuts and the remaining dressing. Toss to combine and
serve.
Serve this dish with cooked millet to soak up all the exquisite juices that have accumulated at the
bottom of the baking dish.
KAKORY (POTATO HAND PIES)
with lentils and smoked twaróg
Spaniards have empanadas, and Poles have kakory from Suwalszczyzna, the Suwałki region. The
difference is that the Poles use mashed potatoes in the dough, which makes it much softer and
more delicate. I prefer to add olive oil to my dough; that makes it more elastic, and the edges
become pleasantly crunchy when baked. The filling is up to you. My favorite is smoked Twaróg,
or farmer cheese, with green lentils, slightly mashed and flavored with marjoram.
SERVES 9
1 teaspoon marjoram
1 In a medium pot, bring 1½ cups (360 ml) water to a boil and add ½
teaspoon of the salt. Add the lentils and cook on low heat until soft,
about 30 minutes. Drain and transfer to a medium bowl. Using a
potato masher, mash the lentils, keeping some whole for texture.
2 Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion,
garlic, and the remaining salt, stirring frequently, until the onion is
translucent and soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the
lentils. Add the Twaróg and marjoram, and mix to combine. Season
with salt and pepper.
3 Place the potatoes in a medium pot of generously salted water. Bring
to a boil, lower the heat to low, and cook until the potatoes are tender,
about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside for a few minutes to dry.
4 While still warm, pass the potatoes through a ricer into a medium
bowl, or mash them using a potato masher. Add the flour and oil.
Using a wooden spoon, stir until an elastic dough forms.
5 Divide the dough into nine pieces. Gently shape each piece into a ball,
then flatten the ball with your fingertips into a circle 4¾ inches (12
cm) in diameter. If the dough is sticking to your fingers, dust your
hands or the dough with flour.
6 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
7 Scoop out 1 tablespoon of the filling and place it in the center of one
circle of dough, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) border around the edge.
Fold half of the dough over the filling, completely covering it, then
align the edges and press them together gently with a fork to seal.
Transfer the kakory to the prepared baking sheet. Cut three slits into
the top of each kakory.
8 Brush the kakory with the egg wash. Bake in the oven until the kakory
are golden brown, about 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room
temperature.
If you can’t get smoked Twaróg or farmer cheese, use feta cheese instead. You can add 1
tablespoon liquid smoke to the feta, as well, for even more flavor.
You can reheat kakory in the oven at 375°F (190°C) for 10 minutes, though these hand pies taste
just as good at room temperature as they do when freshly baked.
ROASTED PARSLEY ROOT
with red onion and whiskey jam, smoked twaróg, and mint
I could eat any mixture of roasted root vegetables with any toppings. Some of them, though, are
especially distinctive. This sweet red onion jam emphasizes the richness of the parsley roots. A
remarkable ingredient—smoked Twaróg, or farmer cheese—is creamy and crumbles beautifully.
You can substitute it with another smoked cheese, such as Polish oscypek or Italian scamorza
affumicata, as well.
SERVES 4
1 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
2 Place the parsley roots on the prepared baking sheet. Coat with the oil
and season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven until deeply golden,
about 40 minutes.
3 To make the red onion jam, place the sliced onion in a large skillet and
add the brown sugar, whiskey, and the salt. Bring to a boil, then
immediately reduce the heat to medium. Cook uncovered, stirring
occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 25 minutes.
4 Transfer the roasted parsley root to a large plate. Top with the smoked
Twaróg and a heaping tablespoon of the red onion jam. Sprinkle with
the mint.
You can mix the parsley roots with celeriac, carrots, and boiled potatoes.
Instead of using alcohol, use ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes for a hint of sharpness.
CARAMELIZED SQUASH
with garlic pumpkin seeds and lemony yogurt
When squash is smeared with honey and roasted in a hot oven, the edges caramelize and the
flavor becomes heavenly. Crispy pumpkin seeds are seasoned with marjoram (but you can
replace with fresh oregano). Yogurt is a refreshing accompaniment to the dish.
3 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons butter
1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
2 Cut the squash in half crosswise and scoop out the seeds. Leaving the
skin on, cut the squash widthwise into ½-inch (1.25 cm) slices. Place
on the prepared baking sheet.
3 Combine the olive oil with the honey and salt. Pour over the squash
and toss to coat. Roast in the oven, flipping halfway through, until
completely tender, browned, and caramelized, 30 to 35 minutes.
4 To make the spiced seeds, melt the butter in a medium skillet over
medium heat, until slightly brown, about 5 minutes. Add the pumpkin
seeds, garlic, and marjoram, and immediately remove from the heat.
5 Combine the yogurt and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.
6 Spread the lemony yogurt on a plate and arrange the caramelized
squash on top, sprinkled with the spiced seeds.
Hokkaido pumpkin will work just as well as the delicata variety (both have edible skins).
This dish is also great with cooked millet, basmati rice, or sourdough bread.
ROASTED GREEN BEANS
with smoked tofu, parsley, and lemon
G reen beans are great when steamed or panfried, but roasting them is much better. They become
crunchier without losing their juices. Lemon is required for freshness in the form of caramelized
slices and juice to serve, and smoked tofu adds a hearty flavor.
1 lemon, halved
1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
2 Halve the lemon and thinly slice one half. Put the beans and the lemon
slices on the prepared baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Pour
the oil over the beans and massage them until they are fully coated.
3 Roast in the oven until the beans begin to crisp, about 25 minutes. Add
the tofu and roast until the beans are crispy and the tofu is warm,
about 15 minutes.
4 Sprinkle with the parsley and squeeze the juice of the remaining lemon
over the top. Transfer to plates and serve.
SHEET-PAN KOPYTKA
with white beans, brussels sprouts, and polish za’ atar
Nature has endowed me with a huge, distinctly formed jaw. This has some consequences: I prefer
big bites. When given the choice between food with layers that require a big bite and food with a
pillow-like texture, I almost always go with the former. I believe that no dish is complete without
a crunch, so I add it to everything—even kopytka, or potato dumplings, which are often boiled.
H owever, when they are roasted, they acquire a crunchy shell. Z a’atar is a Middle Eastern spice
mixture of toasted sesame seeds, dried sumac, thyme, and herbs; here, it has a Polish spin, with
mustard seeds and marjoram—a taste that is both unique and comforting.
SERVES 4
POLISH ZA’ATAR
KOPYTKA
Half a 15-ounce (425 g) can white beans, drained and patted dry
¼ small (300 g) red cabbage, roughly cut into ½-inch (1.25 cm) slices
If you can’t get premade kopytka, you can make them yourself (although this will add
considerable time to the process). Store-bought gnocchi would do the trick, as well.
When they are not in season, fresh cranberries can be replaced with one thinly sliced lemon.
Charred, Grilled & Pan-Roasted
SMOKY / SCORCHED / EX TRAV AGANT
This is the tastiest bite: a vegetable that has been cooked over high heat
to the point of developing char or grill marks, packed with deep flavors.
My recipe for caramelized carrots (see page 141) was an accident. I left
the carrots on the heat for too long, far after the water had evaporated.
But the result was more than I could have hoped for. The sugars
caramelized, and the carrots took on a feisty, smoky flavor, just shy of
being totally burned. And my recipe for grilled apricots (see page 138)
completely transforms apricots from a seemingly unremarkable fruit into
the star of the plate, dressed in black grill marks infusing it with flavor.
Broccoli is also revolutionary in charred form (see page 128). I plunge it
into a skillet of hot oil, then quickly remove it once the char marks
appear. Charring brings broccoli up to its full potential.
Charring is even more direct (and much faster) than roasting, but the
chemical mechanisms are similar. At the cellular level, amino acids and
sugars change their form, resulting in a concentrated flavor that sharpens
and acquires notes of long-cooked caramel. All this is accompanied by
an element of smoke, the aroma hiding in the heavily charred skin.
In this book, I’ve separated three related categories: charring, grilling,
and pan-roasting.
Charring is the most popular and versatile; it can be done in the most
ordinary skillet or pan or using a kitchen torch, the oven’s highest
temperature, or even the burner of a gas stove. Charring is characterized
by a slightly cracked, scorched surface.
Grilling is another popular technique that can take place on a special
charcoal grill, a gas grill, or even indoors with a cast-iron grill pan. (The
pan will retain heat perfectly and can reach high temperatures, enabling
efficient charring.)
Pan-roasting is the way to go for vegetables with hard, compact flesh
like squash, sweet potatoes, and some varieties of cabbage like baby or
savoy. They first require charring in a pan, followed by roasting in the
oven until completely tender. The recipe I include for Pan-Roasted
Cabbage with Brown Harissa, Sour Cream, and Turmeric Oil (page 134)
will blow your mind.
CHARRED BROCCOLI
with “ fifth flavor sauce,” lemony mayo, and poppy seeds
The best way to prepare broccoli is to charr its halved florets until they’re bright green and
scattered with dark spots here and there. You could stop there and simply add some lemon juice
before serving, but it’s even better to go a step further and transform the broccoli into something
wholly unique. At Ź ródło, a favorite Warsaw restaurant that is redefining Polish cuisine, I once
had a broccoli dish served with mayonnaise and a soy sauce– based dressing. I dubbed it “Fifth
Flavor Sauce” because it gave the dish a robust umami flavor. I added poppy seeds when I
recreated it at home and was pleasantly surprised. Who would have thought that broccoli could
be so scrumptious?
SERVES 4
1 To make the fifth flavor sauce, combine the soy sauce, vinegar,
powdered sugar, and 3 tablespoons water in a small bowl.
2 To make the lemony mayo, in another small bowl, combine the
mayonnaise and lemon juice. Season with salt.
3 Cut off the broccoli stem, separate the broccoli florets, and cut each
floret in half lengthwise.
4 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the broccoli
florets cut side down and char them until dark spots appear, 2 to 3
minutes. V ery carefully pour ½ cup (120 ml) water into the skillet and
cook until it evaporates. The broccoli should be cooked through, with
a nice crunch (not completely fork-tender).
5 Place the broccoli on a serving plate. Pour over the fifth flavor sauce
and add a dollop of the lemony mayo alongside. Sprinkle with the
poppy seeds and season with pepper before serving.
GRILLED RED PEPPERS
with millet, turmeric yogurt, and caramelized lemon
This recipe is part of my repertoire of dishes that delivers a nutritious boost. The healthiest grain
of them all, millet, is paired with turmeric, which is not Polish but is readily available in any
grocery store. This sunny yellow spice from India frequently appears in my cooking, not only
because of its reputation as the most nutritious spice but also because it enhances traditional
Polish dishes and makes them more flavorful. H ere, I add the turmeric to yogurt, giving it the
Midas touch.
3 medium (450 g) red peppers, cut into ½-inch (1.25 cm) slices
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 In a medium pot, bring 2 cups (480 ml) salted water to a boil. Add the
millet and cook on low heat, covered, until it absorbs nearly all the
liquid, about 11 minutes. Let sit, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes, until the
millet is fluffy in texture.
2 Place the red peppers, oil, and ¾ teaspoon of the salt in a medium
bowl. Toss to coat. Heat a large grill pan over medium-high heat. Grill
the red peppers, stirring occasionally, until tender and slightly charred,
8 to 10 minutes.
3 To make the caramelized lemon, combine the lemon, sugar, and ½
teaspoon of the remaining salt. Let sit until the lemon releases its
liquid, about 15 minutes. Pat dry with a paper or kitchen towel. Heat a
medium skillet over medium-high heat. Arrange the lemon in one
layer in the skillet, without the slices touching one another. Cook until
caramelized, about 2 minutes. Flip the slices and cook for another
minute. Set aside.
4 To make the turmeric yogurt, in a medium bowl, combine the yogurt,
turmeric, and the remaining salt.
5 Spread the turmeric yogurt on a big serving plate or on individual
plates. Put the cooked millet in the middle and top with the grilled red
peppers and the caramelized lemon. Season with pepper before
serving.
CHARRED CORN SOUP
with buttermilk, coriander, and chile oil
When charred, corn acquires a personality that it lacks in other forms. It might not sound like the
finest idea to char corn kernels before blending them into a cream, but your palate will thank you
for this trick. Chile and coriander aren’t typically linked with Polish cuisine, but they have been
grown here on massive level, and I often use them in my kitchen as I believe they create unique
complexity. When combined with corn and buttermilk, they provide a flavor combination that is
sweet, spicy, sour, and aromatic—a taste that is both distinctive of old Polish cuisine and of my
own, modern cuisine.
SERVES 4
6 corn ears
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon coriander
3 dried porcini
1 Shuck the corn, pulling away the husks. Working with one ear at a
time, position the ear in a wide bowl, so that the ear angles down.
Using a sharp knife, starting from the top, slice off the kernels into the
bowl. Reserve the ears.
2 Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the corn
kernels and cook, without stirring, until dark spots appear, about 2
minutes. Continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until the kernels are
browned and fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. (Be careful! A few kernels may
sizzle and pop out of the pan like popcorn.) Transfer to a small plate
and set aside.
3 Allow the skillet to cool for a few minutes, then wipe it out with a
paper or kitchen towel. Add the butter to the skillet and melt over
medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft but not yet browned, about
5 minutes. Add the coriander and cook until fragrant, about 30
seconds. Add the potatoes and three quarters of the charred corn, and
stir. Pour in the wine and cook over medium-high heat, scraping up the
browned bits, until the liquid takes on a syrupy consistency, about 2
minutes. Add the vegetable broth, porcini, and the reserved corn ears.
(The ears of corn add a ton of flavor to this broth!) Cook over low
heat, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are soft, about
15 to 20 minutes.
4 Remove the corn ears and discard. Transfer the mixture to a blender.
Process until smooth, about 3 minutes. Stir in the buttermilk. Season
with salt and pepper.
5 To make the chile oil, heat the oil and red pepper flakes in a small
saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat and add the remaining
salt. Let sit until the oil becomes red in color and the red pepper flakes
have infused, about 10 minutes.
6 Divide the soup among four bowls. Top with the remaining charred
corn and the cilantro. Drizzle with the chile oil and serve.
PAN-ROASTED CABBAGE
with brown harissa, sour cream, and turmeric oil
Charring is my favorite way to prepare young spring cabbage, which is usually associated with
G randma’s comfy stews, but in this rendition, it takes on a different charm. It starts on the
stovetop and finishes in a hot oven, which gives it a fully cooked interior, a stunningly scorched
surface, and a powerful kick. H ere, the cabbage is glazed with Tunisian harissa, tomato paste,
and brown butter for a smoky, nutty flavor. This recipe is one of my favorites.
SERVES 2 TO 4
2 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon turmeric
You can char the cabbage up to one day ahead. Before serving, make the harissa mixture and then
roast the cabbage. If you aren’t using a cast-iron skillet to char the cabbage, transfer to a baking
sheet before roasting.
GRILLED LEEKS
with blue cheese sauce and candied walnuts
Leeks have recently become a very popular vegetable in Warsaw’s finest restaurants. This isn’t
surprising. Leeks have a ton of potential. Although they taste fantastic melting in your mouth with
sour cream and green crisps (see page 64 ), grilling is my go-to technique. It develops the leeks’
concentrated sweetness and adds a slightly smoky flavor. H ere, I add a tangy blue cheese sauce
and candied walnuts, which have been panfried in honey until dark in color and coated to golden
deliciousness.
3 tablespoons honey
1 Place the heavy cream and blue cheese in a medium saucepan. Cook
over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the cheese has melted.
(The darker bits will remain intact.) Remove from the heat. Season
with a generous amount of pepper. Allow to cool completely. At room
temperature, the sauce will reach a creamy consistency.
2 Coat a small sheet of parchment paper with oil. Heat a small skillet
over medium-high heat. Add the honey and cook until it starts
bubbling, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the walnuts, red pepper flakes, and ¼
teaspoon of the salt. Cook until the honey is golden brown and has a
sticky consistency, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat immediately.
Place the candied walnuts on the prepared parchment paper, to prevent
them from sticking together. Cool completely, then chop coarsely.
3 Slice the leeks into ½-inch (1.25 cm) rings. Place in a medium bowl.
Add the oil and the remaining salt and toss gently.
4 Heat a large grill pan over medium-high heat. Grill the leeks in the
skillet until nicely charred, about 3 minutes per side.
5 Spread the blue cheese sauce over a serving plate or individual plates.
Place the leek slices on top of the sauce. Sprinkle with the candied
walnuts and more red pepper flakes before serving.
GRILLED APRICOTS
with tomatoes, shallots, dill flowers, and chile-turmeric oil
I’m always amazed by the way heat can transform apricots from tart to velvety in taste. Why not
use them in a summer salad? When grilled, covered in dark spots here and there, they gain a
slightly smoky flavor, which complements the sweetness of ruby tomatoes and the turmeric
dressing that bites your tongue with its heat.
½ teaspoon turmeric
1 Bring a gas or charcoal grill to medium heat. Brush the apricots with a
bit of oil and grill them cut side down, until the fruit has developed
grill marks and started to soften, about 3 minutes. Set aside.
2 Place the oil, red pepper flakes, turmeric, and salt in a small saucepan.
Cook until the red pepper flakes start to sizzle, then remove from the
heat.
3 Arrange the tomatoes and onion and the grilled apricots on a large
plate. Drizzle with the dressing and top with the dill flowers. Season
with salt and pepper. Serve with sourdough bread to soak up the
gorgeous juice.
In place of a gas or charcoal grill, you can use a grill pan instead.
Can’t find dill flowers? You can use regular dill and drizzle the dish with a bit of lemon juice.
CARAMELIZED BABY CARROTS
with coriander, golden berries, and crushed pistachios
This is the finest way to prepare carrots. I use the French technique of cooking the carrots until
the water evaporates, but I add my own twist, charring the carrots in butter. They become sweet
and tender, pairing beautifully with the acidity of golden berries, the Polish superfood, and
pistachios.
SERVES 2 TO 4
1 teaspoon sugar
1 lime, halved
1 Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Place the carrots, salt, sugar, and
coriander in a large skillet. Pour over enough boiling water to cover
the carrots. Return to a boil, and cook over high heat until the water
has completely evaporated, 20 to 30 minutes.
2 Add the butter and panfry the carrots until charred all over, 2 to 3
minutes. Remove from the heat and drizzle with the juice of half the
lime. Transfer the carrots to a platter, and sprinkle with the pistachios
and golden berries. Top with the cilantro, squeeze juice from the
remaining lime over it, and serve.
If you can’t get golden berries, use dried cranberries. Cilantro can be replaced with parsley.
Panfried
Q UICK / CRISPY / SEARED
Even I have days where I don’t feel like cooking. At these times, I pull
out a skillet and heat up a splash of olive oil or a tablespoon of butter. I
take a look in my refrigerator to see what ingredients are on hand.
Mushrooms, shallots, or Brussels sprouts are about to begin sizzling.
Depending on my current craving, the vegetables are combined with
additional ingredients and flavors. I infuse the mushrooms with a glass of
white wine, then add rosemary and cold butter, emulsifying the sauce. I
pour it all over a toasted slice of challah, which will soak up this
delicious liquid (see page 159). The red onion will need a little more
time to fully reduce and caramelize, but then I’ll add sun-dried tomatoes
and combine it with pasta, creating a dish that would be worth waiting an
eternity for (see page 156). Equally delightful are Brussels sprouts gently
panfried in olive oil, tossed with something reminiscent of bagna cauda
—a sauce of Sardinian origin, except I swap the anchovies for miso
paste. I sprinkle all of this with buttered panko and parsley mixed with
lemon (see page 155).
When I moved from my parents’ house to study in Warsaw, my
mother gave me a large cast-iron skillet with two handles. I still use it to
this day. Over the years, I’ve upgraded my pantry with a few more
stainless-steel pans and a wok (I use this for stir-fries; see page 148), but
I could do just as well with one cast-iron skillet. It’s good to invest in
high-quality equipment that will serve you for years. To make your cast-
iron skillet last forever, immediately after buying it, lightly grease it with
vegetable oil, then place in the oven at 400°F (200°C) for about 1 hour,
to create a natural nonstick surface: the patina. Repeat this process every
6 to 12 months and you’ll have a cast-iron skillet that will last a lifetime.
CRISPY LENIWE
with asparagus, mustard seeds, and lemon
Leniwe are pillow-like dumplings made with Twaróg, or farmer cheese, which gives them a sharp
flavor. When I was a kid, I’d eat them with buttery bread crumbs and cinnamon for a sweet
breakfast or lunch, a popular dish among Poles. Leniwe also tastes divine when served with
beans or veggies—in this case, sautéed asparagus flavored with lemon and mustard seeds. I
panfry the dumplings to achieve a crispy golden skin. Biting into leniwe and hearing the crunch
is my favorite moment.
SERVES 2
1 large egg
2 tablespoons dill
When asparagus isn’t in season, you can use broad beans, spinach, or squash instead.
CRUNCHY KOPYTKA
with mushrooms, leeks, and lovage
Stews, like other dark foods, are not particularly photogenic, but taste is what counts. The key to
good stew flavor was formerly Maggi, a Swiss seasoning sauce that contains monosodium
glutamate (MSG ), lovage, and yeast. It was so popular in Poland that it became a staple of the
Polish dinner table. Eventually, Maggi gave way to soy sauce, but I missed the flavor of lovage,
so I started panfrying kopytka, leek, and mushrooms with soy sauce and adding fresh lovage. I
like to serve this dish with raw egg yolks for an extra-thick sauce, but that’s totally optional.
SERVES 2
½ pound (220 g) mushrooms (any variety, such as button, oyster, porcini, or milk cap),
halved if large
1 Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Panfry the
mushrooms, stirring a few times, until golden brown, about 6 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper. Using a slotted spoon, remove the
mushrooms from the skillet. Set aside in a medium bowl.
2 In the same skillet, place the leek, garlic, and salt. Panfry, stirring
frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
remove the leek and garlic from the skillet and add to the bowl with
the mushrooms.
3 To make the sauce, combine the mustard, soy sauce, lemon juice,
powdered sugar, and ¼ cup (60 ml) water in a medium bowl.
4 Add more oil to the skillet, if needed. Add the kopytka and panfry
until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and leek
mixture to the skillet and stir in the sauce. Cook until warmed through
and remove from the heat.
5 To serve, divide among bowls. Top each with an egg yolk, if using,
and the lovage. Season with pepper.
STIR-FRIED WHATEVER
You come home from a long day and heat up a skillet until it’s as hot as
your crush. You throw all the ingredients in one at a time and stir often.
Q uickly, before you know it, a simple but delicious and nutritious dinner
is on your plate. This method is called stir-frying or sautéing. It has been
my go-to dinner more than once, especially when time is short. Rather
than providing a traditional recipe, here’s a diagram to build the
individual layers of a stir-fry.
SERVES 4
Millet can be replaced with rice, and walnuts can be replaced with almonds, pecans, or hazelnuts.
You can play with the spices and herbs, too. But don’t use red lentils here; they cook too fast, and
they don’t have as much texture as green lentils.
CRISPY BRUSSELS SPROUTS
with miso bagna cauda, lemony parsley, and panko
It has been my long-time goal to convert Brussels sprouts naysayers to the virtues of these little
cabbages. When I published my first version of this recipe, I explained that it was a cure for
childhood trauma, when Brussels sprouts were a dreaded side. Now I consider this recipe to be
the world’s best Brussels sprouts. They are gently panfried until golden brown and a little bit soft,
but still crunchy. Instead of the anchovies that the Sardinian bagna cauda calls for, I substitute
miso paste, which has a similar depth of umami. Topped with buttered panko and parsley, I bet
you will love these Brussels sprouts!
SERVES 4
1 lemon
1½ tablespoons butter
1 To make the miso bagna cauda, bring a large saucepan or small pot of
water to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and set a metal bowl
inside so it sits above the water. Add the miso paste, garlic, juice of
half the lemon, and ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the oil. Stir to combine. Cover
the bowl tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil and cook, about 40
minutes. (It will look like it has separated.)
2 To make the buttered panko, heat the butter and red pepper flakes in a
large skillet over medium-low heat, swirling the pan often, until the
foaming subsides, about 2 minutes. Add the panko and stir to coat
evenly. Cook, stirring often, until the panko is golden brown, about 4
minutes. Season with salt and set aside in a small bowl. Carefully wipe
the skillet clean with a paper or kitchen towel.
3 To make the Brussels sprouts, heat the remaining oil in the skillet over
medium-low heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and panfry them, stirring
often, until soft and slightly charred, about 12 minutes. Season with
salt and pepper.
4 In a medium bowl, combine the chopped parsley, sunflower seeds,
juice from the remaining lemon, and a pinch of salt.
5 To serve, spread the half of the bagna cauda over a large plate. Top
with the Brussels sprouts, the buttered panko, the parsley mixture, and
more bagna cauda (you don’t need to use it all). I prefer to serve it like
this and to toss just before eating.
SERVES 4
Juice of ½ lemon
½ cup (60 g) smoked Twaróg or farmer cheese
1 Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a large skillet. Add the onion,
garlic, and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until caramelized, about 15
minutes. Add the red pepper flakes, tomato paste, and sun-dried
tomatoes. Cook, stirring often, until the tomato paste becomes darker
in color, about 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce.
2 Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according
to the package instructions. Reserve 1 cup (240 ml) of the pasta water
and then drain the pasta.
3 In a small bowl, combine the parsley and lemon juice and season with
salt.
4 Add the pasta and the reserved pasta water to the skillet with the
tomato-onion mixture. Cook until the sauce evenly coats the pasta,
about 2 minutes.
5 Divide the pasta among four bowls. Top with the parsley and the
smoked Twaróg.
Instead of olive oil, you can use the oil from the sun-dried tomato jar for panfrying.
CHANTERELLE CHALLAH TOAST
with roasted garlic butter, soaked in rosemary wine sauce
I was asked to host a culinary show at EX PO2020 in Dubai, presenting modern Polish flavors.
One of the dishes I chose was proziaki, regional buttermilk flatbreads with roasted garlic butter,
served with mushrooms and wine-butter sauce. Unfortunately, chanterelles were missing because
you can’t buy them in Dubai. Even so, the dish delighted the audience, especially when, like a
true performer, I lit the sauce on fire, almost setting my eyebrows aflame. At home, I usually make
this with a thick slice of challah, which has an impressive ability to soak up flavors.
SERVES 4
½ cup (1 stick/113 g) butter, at room temperature, plus ¼ cup (½ stick/57 g) cold butter
4 slices challah or brioche, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, toasted or grilled
Chanterelles are the best choice here, but you can use whatever kind of mushroom you have or a
mixture of them.
If you want to show off in front of your friends, you can flambé the mushrooms. But it doesn’t
change the flavor.
2 tablespoons honey
1 Drain the tofu and press between several layers of paper or kitchen
towels to remove excess liquid. Repeat the process once more, and cut
it into ¾-inch (2 cm) slices.
2 On a large plate, combine the cornstarch and salt. Dredge the tofu in
the mixture to coat. Set aside.
3 Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. The oil
is ready when a pinch of bread crumbs bubbles immediately. Carefully
add the tofu slices one by one so the oil doesn’t splash. Cook until
crisp and brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully flip and repeat on the
opposite side. Reduce the heat to medium-low and remove the tofu
from the skillet. Place the tofu on a plate covered with a few layers of
paper or kitchen towels to drain. Discard any remaining oil from the
skillet.
4 Coarsely crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle or place in a
resealable plastic bag and crush with a small saucepan. The
consistency should be coarser than ground pepper.
5 In a medium bowl, combine the plum jam, soy sauce, vinegar, honey,
ginger, the crushed peppercorns, and ¼ cup (60 ml) water. Transfer to
the cooled skillet and bring to a boil.
6 Add the tofu. Cook, basting the tofu occasionally, until the sauce is
thick enough to coat a spoon, about 3 minutes.
7 To serve, divide among plates and top with more crushed peppercorns.
If you can’t get smoked tofu, you can use regular tofu—just add ½ tablespoon liquid smoke or ½
teaspoon smoked paprika.
Deep-Fried
GOLDEN / IRRESISTIBLE / INDULGENT
A FEW TIPS
SERVES 4
3 eggs
1 Prepare three shallow dishes for dipping the mushrooms. In the first
dish, place the flour. In the second dish, whisk together the eggs and
salt. In the third dish, combine the panko with the marjoram and
rosemary.
2 Coat the first mushroom in the flour on both sides, next dredge it in
the eggs, and then coat it in the panko, pressing the mushroom
carefully to get as much panko to stick as possible. Repeat with the
remaining mushrooms.
3 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Panfry the
mushrooms until golden, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the
schnitzel to a paper or kitchen towel. Season with salt and pepper and
serve.
Don’t be shy with the oil. A large amount of well-heated oil makes the mushrooms less oily, as
the heat will cook them quickly, preventing them from soaking up too much oil.
FRIED RADISHES
with lemony mayo
No surprise: The best way to prepare radishes is to fry them with their leaves in a tempura batter.
Deep-frying is always the answer; their pungent crunch becomes more nuanced. The root softens
slightly, now sweet and buttery, and the leaves are crunchy like very good potato chips. And
you’ll want to dip everything in this lemony mayo; it’s that good!
SERVES 2 TO 4
FRIED RADISHES
LEMONY MAYO
To keep the oil at the perfect temperature for frying, wait a minute or two between adding each
batch.
Radishes that have lost some of their freshness and crispness are perfect for this recipe.
Lemony mayo can be made three days ahead and stored in the fridge. Your favorite store-bought
mayonnaise doctored with lots of lemon would also work just fine.
FRITTERS
Two 15-ounce (425 g) cans white beans, drained and dried on a paper towel
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 teaspoons cumin
½ cup (15 g) finely chopped mixed herbs, such as dill, parsley, basil, mint, cilantro, and
marjoram
ROMESCO SAUCE
Don’t be shy with the oil. A large amount of well-heated oil makes the fritters less oily, as the
heat will cook them quickly, preventing them from soaking up too much oil.
This dish also pairs well with Spiced Millet and Butternut Squash with Bay Leaf, Cinnamon, and
Allspice (page 63), or All the Leaves with V inaigrette, Blackberries, and So Many Herbs (page
18).
CAULIFLOWER-POTATO HARISSA KROKIETY
with grapefruit sour cream
Krokiety are deep-fried pancakes typically loaded with sauerkraut and mushrooms, but their
potato equivalent, with Spanish roots, is what I prefer to make. They easily use up any leftover
mashed potatoes from the previous night’s dinner. I vary the flavors and textures with boiled
cauliflower, sharp cheese, cilantro, and Tunisian harissa paste with chile peppers. These krokiety
are velvety and creamy, golden, and crunchy. You couldn’t ask for more.
MAKES 12 KROKIETY
1 pound (450 g) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch (5 cm) chunks, or 2 cups
(420 g) leftover mashed potatoes
2 large eggs
1 To make the krokiety, place the potatoes in a large pot. Cover with
water and bring to a boil over high heat. Season generously with salt
and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the potatoes are
tender, 15 minutes. Add the cauliflower to the potatoes and continue
cooking until the cauliflower is tender, 6 to 8 minutes, then remove
from the heat and drain.
2 Pass the potatoes through a ricer into a large bowl. Coarsely chop the
cauliflower and add to the potatoes. Add the butter, harissa, Parmesan,
cilantro, shallot, and flour. Mix to combine and season with salt and
pepper. Cool completely. If you have time, chill the potato mixture
overnight; it will become firm and easier to form into logs.
3 Heat the oil in a deep, medium skillet over medium-high heat. The oil
is ready when a pinch of bread crumbs bubbles immediately; if you
have a cooking thermometer on hand, the oil is ready at 350°F
(180°C).
4 Meanwhile, shape the potato mixture into about 12 logs.
5 In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Place the bread crumbs in another
medium bowl. Dip the potato logs in the egg to coat, then roll them in
the bread crumbs.
6 Line a plate with paper or kitchen towels. Working in batches, fry the
potato logs, turning often, until they are golden brown and crispy, 4 to
5 minutes. Remove from the skillet and transfer to the prepared plate.
7 To make the sauce, in a medium bowl, combine the sour cream,
grapefruit juice, and salt. Top with the zest.
8 Serve the krokiety alongside the grapefruit sour cream.
This recipe is a great way to use up leftovers, preventing food waste. If you have leftover mashed
potatoes, skip cooking fresh potatoes and continue with 2 cups (420 g), then follow the recipe, as
above.
CELERIAC SCHNITZEL
with zucchini-leek surówka and horseradish sauce
The celeriac schnitzel at Apteka, a vegan Eastern European restaurant in Pittsburgh, was named
one of the best restaurant dishes of 2022 by The New York Times. Anyone who eats vegetarian or
vegan dishes will be familiar with celeriac, a popular tuber with tons of umami flavor, which is
why it can be used to simulate meat. Many vegans in Poland cook celeriac slices in broth, wrap
them in nori sheets, and fry them to serve as a substitute for traditional Christmas carp. Apteka’s
method involves roasting the celeriac first, to intensify its flavor before deep-frying; this step is a
must. It’s also a must to serve these with baby potatoes that have been boiled and tossed with
butter and dill.
SERVES 4
CELERIAC SCHNITZEL
1 teaspoon cumin
2 large eggs
ZUCCHINI-LEEK SURÓWKA
HORSERADISH SAUCE
1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper.
2 Cut the celeriac into ½-inch-thick (1.25 cm) slices. (One large or two
small celeriac are enough for four slices.)
3 In a medium bowl, toss the celeriac with the cumin, salt, and oil. Place
the slices on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them apart so they
don’t touch. Roast in the oven until slightly tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool.
4 Prepare three shallow dishes for dipping the celeriac. In the first dish,
place the flour and season with pepper. In the second dish, whisk
together the eggs and soy sauce. In the third dish, place the panko and
season with salt.
5 Coat a celeriac slice in the flour on both sides, next dredge it in the
egg, and then coat it in the panko, pressing the celeriac carefully to get
as much panko as possible to stick. Repeat with the remaining
celeriac.
6 Line a plate with paper or kitchen towel. Pour the oil to a depth of ½
inch (1.25 cm) in a large skillet and heat over medium-high heat. The
oil is ready when a pinch of bread crumbs bubbles immediately. Deep-
fry the celeriac slices until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side.
Transfer the schnitzel to the prepared plate and season with salt and
pepper.
7 To make the surówka, combine the leek, zucchini, and sour cream in a
medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
8 To make the horseradish sauce, in another medium bowl, combine the
sour cream, mayonnaise, and horseradish. Season with salt and pepper.
9 Spread the horseradish sauce over four plates. Top with the schnitzel
and serve the surówka and the baby potatoes alongside.
If you would like to try the carp-like version of this dish, roll the celeriac slices in nori sheets
before coating in flour, then follow the recipe.
Don’t be shy with the oil. A large amount of well-heated oil makes the schnitzel less oily, as the
heat will cook them quickly, preventing them from soaking up too much oil.
Infused & Browned
FLAV ORFUL / INTENSE / SURPRISING
• It is worth using a large saucepan. At the end of the process, the butter
begins to foam, so it is better to use a pan of sufficient size, to prevent
any butter from escaping the pan.
• A white dish will help to accurately monitor the browning process.
When the dish is dark in color, it’s easy to get the impression that the
butter is already browned.
• Remember to remove the butter from the hot pan as soon as it reaches
the perfect golden-brown color, as it will continue cooking if it stays
in the hot pan, even if removed from the heat. Alternatively, end the
process several seconds earlier and let it finish browning in the hot
pan, off the heat.
• Remember to stir! Keep an eye on the butter, especially towards the
end of the process. In just a few moments, you can go from the perfect
browned butter to a burned, bitter liquid.
MASHED POTATOES
with bay leaves and kefir
In R ascal, one of Warsaw’s hip natural wine bars, mashed potatoes are offered as a dessert
option. I understand why, because this creamy, ultra-buttery purée melts in your mouth, just like
ice cream. The potatoes should not be overly starchy (use Yukon gold, for example), and they
should be passed through a potato ricer (Ikea has them, if you don’t), which removes all the
lumps and gives the purée a fluffy texture. J ust like ice cream, mashed potatoes can take on all
kinds of flavors through infusion. Any spices or herbs can be used to flavor the butter. In my
opinion, bay leaf and the sharpness of kefir taste exceptionally splendid.
SERVES 4
SERVES 2
1½ pounds (675 g) starchy potatoes such as russet, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm)
chunks
1 teaspoon cumin
1 To make the dumplings, bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the
potatoes and cook until completely tender, about 25 minutes. Drain the
potatoes and return them to the pot.
2 While still warm, pass the potatoes through a ricer into a large bowl or
large pot. Add the butter and mix to combine. Let the potatoes cool
completely.
3 Add the potato starch to the mashed potatoes and mix with a wooden
spoon. Knead the mixture by hand until it forms a smooth dough. If
the dough is sticky, add additional potato starch.
4 Tear off small pieces of dough and form 25 balls, roughly the size of a
large walnut. Flatten each ball and place on a floured cutting board or
baking sheet. Using your finger or the end of a wooden spoon, make
an indentation in the middle of each dumpling.
5 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Reduce the heat to low;
don’t add the dumplings to boiling water or they’ll become mushy.
Cook the dumplings in two batches, stirring occasionally, until they
float to the surface. Once they surface, cook for 2 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, remove them from the pot and transfer to a medium
bowl.
6 To make the cauliflower-orange cream, preheat the oven to 450°F
(230°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the
cauliflower on the prepared baking sheet and toss with the cumin, 3
tablespoons of the oil, and the salt. Roast in the oven, stirring once or
twice, until the cauliflower is tender and charred, about 25 minutes.
7 Place three quarters of the roasted cauliflower in a food processor with
the orange zest, orange juice, and heavy cream. Blend until smooth,
about 2 minutes. (If the sauce is too thick, add a splash of heavy cream
or milk and blend again.) Season with salt and pepper.
8 To make the fried buckwheat, heat the remaining oil in a small skillet
over medium heat. Add the buckwheat and season with salt. Panfry,
stirring occasionally, until golden and crispy, about 2 minutes.
Remove from the heat.
9 To serve, spread the cauliflower-orange cream over two plates. Top
with the dumplings, the sauerkraut, and the remaining roasted
cauliflower. Drizzle with the dill oil and sprinkle the fried buckwheat
and more orange zest on top.
Making your own kluski śląskie is quite easy—but time-consuming, so I tend to use 14 ounces
(400 g) of store-bought dumplings. In Poland, they’re available in almost every supermarket.
Elsewhere, check your local Polish deli or specialty grocery store. You also can order them
online.
ROASTED FRENCH FRIES
with dill pickles, szafir cheese, and bay leaf–allspice mayo
If you don’t know this yet, it’s time to catch up—french fries are unquestionably better roasted
than they are deep-fried. The process doesn’t take a long time, either, as long as the potatoes are
cut into matchsticks and boiled in salted water before roasting in the oven. Using this technique,
the fries roast quicker and are moister inside, and the salt is able to absorb into each fry rather
than sticking to the outer skin. As a child, I’d eat french fries exclusively with ketchup, but as I’ve
grown older I’ve started to prefer mayonnaise—even fancy ones with different flavors like chile,
rosemary, chamomile, and cardamom. You can flavor the oil used in the mayonnaise by slowly
heating it with your choice of spices.
SERVES 4
3 pounds (1.4 kg) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch (3 mm) slices
3 garlic cloves
1 egg yolk
1 cup (150 g) Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles (page 204), thinly sliced
1 To make the french fries, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C) and turn
on the oven fan. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
2 Stack 2 to 3 potato slices together and cut lengthwise into 1/8-inch (3
mm) matchsticks. Repeat with the remaining potato slices.
3 Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes
and cook until soft (but not mushy), about 6 minutes. Drain the
potatoes and let sit until the steam dissipates, about 5 minutes. Divide
the potatoes between the two prepared baking sheets. (Be sure not to
overcrowd them; this lengthens the cooking time.) Drizzle with ½ cup
(120 ml) of the oil and season with salt.
4 Roast the french fries in the oven, switching the baking sheets to
opposite racks halfway through, until golden brown and crispy, about
25 minutes. Season with the flaky sea salt.
5 To make the mayo, combine the bay leaves, allspice, garlic, and the
remaining oil in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat. When
the spices start to sizzle, cook for 1 minute and then remove from the
heat. Allow to cool completely. Remove and discard the allspice,
garlic, and bay leaves from the oil (reserve the bay leaves for garnish,
if desired) and pour the oil into a measuring cup with a spout.
6 In a deep, medium bowl, whisk the egg yolk, lemon juice, and salt.
7 In a slow, steady stream, add the oil mixture to the egg mixture, about
1 tablespoon at a time, whisking constantly. To make this process
easier, place a damp kitchen towel under the bowl to stabilize it while
whisking, as you’ll be using both hands. Make sure each addition is
completely incorporated before stirring in more. It should be a saucy
mayo; if you prefer it thicker, add more oil.
8 To serve, place the french fries in a medium bowl. Add the pickles and
toss. Top with the Szafir cheese. Serve alongside the mayo.
SERVES 4
SOUP
1 To make the soup, place the tomatoes, strawberries, sour cream, bread,
onion, garlic, vinegar, and salt in a large bowl. Stir thoroughly, until
the bread is fully coated. Refrigerate until the bread is soft, about 30
minutes.
2 Transfer the tomato mixture to a food processor and blend until very
smooth. With the blender on low speed, add the oil in a slow, steady
stream, to emulsify the soup, making it velvety and light. Season with
salt and pepper. Refrigerate until it chilled, 1 to 2 hours.
3 To make the garlic oil, place the oil, garlic, sesame, and red pepper
flakes in a small saucepan. Cook over low heat until the garlic is soft
and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat
immediately and pour into a small bowl. Season with salt.
4 Divide the soup among four bowls. Serve with the cherry tomatoes,
drizzle with the garlic oil, and top with the dill flowers.
The sweetness of the strawberries pairs perfectly with the tomatoes here, but you can replace the
strawberries with watermelon, raspberries, cherries, apricots, or melon. All of them work well in
this soup, as a sweet taste of summer.
TOMATOES AND PEACHES
with goat cheese, crispy sage, and superior brown butter sauce
Tomatoes and peaches are a good match. They complement each other’s sweetness, resulting in a
true summer affair. When brown butter’s nutty scent and amber color is stirred into heavy cream,
you get a light, superior sauce with a unique flavor.
1 teaspoon honey
1 pound (450 g) small heirloom tomatoes, cut into ½-inch (1.25 cm) wedges
10.5 ounces (300 g) peaches, preferably Saturn, cut into ½-inch (1.25 cm) wedges
1 Whisk the oil, lemon juice, and honey in a medium bowl until the
honey is dissolved. Season with salt and pepper, add the tomatoes and
peaches, and stir to combine.
2 Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. When the
butter begins to foam, add the sage leaves and cook until the butter
starts to brown, about 3 minutes. The sage should be slightly crispy on
its edges. Using a slotted spoon, remove the sage and place it on a
paper or kitchen towel. Season with salt.
3 Continue cooking the butter until fully brown and fragrant, about 2
minutes. Stir in the heavy cream, whisking constantly, to create an
emulsion. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.
4 Transfer the sauce to a platter. Top with the tomato-peach mixture, a
dollop of the goat cheese, and the sage. Alternatively, you can place
the tomato-peach mixture on the platter and drizzle with the sauce.
I find Saturn peaches complement the tomatoes here the best—perfectly sweet and easy to cut
into bite-size pieces. Feel free to use any kind of peach or nectarine. Goat cheese is a sharp touch,
but the mild taste of burrata would work well, too.
Serve this salad with bread to mop up the delicious sauce. You won’t want to waste a drop!
CREAMY PASTA
with porcini and mustard seed sauce
H eavy cream—as if touched with a magic wand—takes on a riot of flavors, while maintaining its
moon-white color. Simply boil it gently with whatever seasoning you prefer, such as mustard
seeds and rosemary sprigs, then immediately remove it from the heat. After 12 minutes or so, it
will be infused with the flavors of your desire. This is a technique I frequently use to make sauces
even more elegant and velvety, as in this porcini pasta, which tastes of autumn.
SERVES 2
You can replace porcini with any other kind of mushroom or mix several kinds of mushrooms.
Fermented & Preserved
FUNKY / SOUR / TANGY
In the kitchen window, I keep several large jars filled with kiszonki
(fermented pickles). You can hardly see what’s inside the jars because
the water is murky and slightly bubbly, like champagne. I can’t help but
create homemade pickles over and over again. It’s tough to resist
fermented pickles with their irresistible blend of saltiness, acidity, and
crunchiness. My all-time favorite is ogórki kiszone, Half-Sour Salt-
Brined Dill Pickles (page 204), which I could eat simply on their own,
but I also enjoy dipping them in honey and sour cream—and
incorporating them into full meals, such as potato salad with radishes and
green sauce (see page 208). Another favorite of mine is kiszone
rzodkiewki, or fermented radishes with ginger (see page 197), which pair
well with pasta, walnut cream, and mint (see page 198). One of the most
beloved soups in Poland is called żurek, and it is made from rye
sourdough, which is essentially fermented flour. I’ve been serving it
lately with mashed potatoes, roasted mushrooms, and chives (see page
202). It’s just delightful.
Fermenting is a metabolic process which produces a chemical
reaction in organic substrates through the action of enzymes. Pickling, on
the other hand, is preservation with vinegar—and often sugar or honey,
as well. I tend to reach for kiszonki due to the nutritional value; they
include a whole range of vitamins and antioxidants. Don’t get me wrong,
I love using pickled red onions or chanterelles with rosemary (see page
212) to create no-meat meatballs (see page 215), but eating sauerkraut
feels like winning the lottery.
A FEW TIPS
• Be sure to sterilize the jar: Wash the jars, lids, and rings with soapy
water, rinse well, then heat in the oven at 250°F (120°C) for 15
minutes.
• Don’t use tap water, as it usually contains chlorine. This can interfere
with the growth of bacteria and, as a result, slow down or even stop
the fermentation process. Instead, use bottled or boiled water.
• If your vegetables are not fermenting, the room temperature may be
too cold. Fermentation takes place at room temperature, which means
77°F (25°C). After letting your vegetables ferment at room
temperature, you can stop the fermentation process by placing the jar
in the refrigerator, where it will keep for several months.
• What should you do if something appears on the surface of the
fermented food? If it’s light-cream-colored, transparent, and uniform,
the food has formed a fermentation sheepskin, which is your ally,
because it consists of the good bacteria and yeast that accelerate
fermentation. It could also be mold, which appears in a cluster and is
compact and thick. Mold can appear in a variety of colors, from gray
to blue and green. If it hasn’t had a chance to grow, you can gently fish
it out and keep an eye on how the fermentation progresses. However,
if the mold has penetrated deeper into the jar, you’ll have to discard
the whole thing. Mold can be poisonous.
• Fermented foods can have different, specific smells. This process is
uncontrollable and unpredictable, so don’t be put off right away. They
will taste delicious, I promise.
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cloves
1 red chile
1 Place 3 cups (720 ml) water, the vinegar, salt, sugar, peppercorns,
allspice, mustard seeds, and cloves in a medium saucepan and bring to
a boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to about 140°F (60°C).
2 Place the cherry tomatoes and the chile in a sterilized 25-ounce (740
ml) jar (see page 191). Pour the brine over them and cover the jar. Let
stand at room temperature for two weeks. After two weeks, the
tomatoes should be nicely fermented.
3 Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.
SERVES 4
Juice of 1 lemon
2 to 3 medium tomatoes
1 medium pomegranate
1 Place the onion in a medium bowl. Add the salt and lemon juice. Set
aside.
2 Chop the tomatoes into small cubes. Fill a medium bowl with water.
Cut the pomegranate in half through the equator, then place it in the
bowl and hold it under the water, cut side down. Pull the pomegranate
apart into quarters and remove the white skin to release the seeds.
3 Transfer the tomatoes and the pomegranate seeds to the bowl with the
onion, reserving some seeds for serving. Add the fermented cherry
tomatoes, chives, and oil. Toss gently, to avoid breaking the cherry
tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper.
4 Divide among bowls and top with the Pecorino Romano and the
reserved pomegranate seeds.
To make this salad vegan, skip the cheese. It tastes just as good without it.
FERMENTED RADISHES
with ginger and bay leaves
A version of this recipe appears in my previous book, Fresh from Poland. I include a similar
recipe here because a salt-brined fermented radish is my favorite pickled food. This time, I pair
the radishes with tenacious ginger and use a hot brine to hasten the fermentation process. You
won’t have to wait long for this punchy delight!
One ½-inch (1.25 cm) piece fresh ginger, cut into 3 slices
2 bay leaves
1 Remove the leaves and stalks from the radishes and discard. Place the
radishes and the ginger and bay leaves in a sterilized 1-quart (1 L) jar
(see page 191).
2 In a medium saucepan, bring 3 cups (720 ml) water to a boil. Dissolve
the salt in the water. Pour the brine over the radishes, leaving about 1-
inch (2.5 cm) headspace; you don’t want the liquid to touch the top of
the lid, as it will end up overflowing. Make sure that all the radishes
are covered by the brine (if not, remove some radishes from the jar).
Cover the jar with a tight lid.
3 Ferment at room temperature for 2 to 3 days. Store in the refrigerator
for 2 to 3 months.
SERVES 4
2 garlic cloves
1 cup (150 g) Fermented Radishes (page 197), quartered, plus 3 tablespoons brine or lemon
juice
Be sure to season your pasta water generously, as it will be included in the walnut sauce. If it’s
under-salted, the cream will taste bland.
OGÓRKOWA (DILL PICKLE SOUP)
with celeriac, turmeric, and walnut cream
H ere I’m going to share with you one of my favorite ogórkowa recipes, which also just happens
to be entirely vegan. In this dill pickle soup, I use umami-packed celeriac and toasted, soaked,
and blended walnuts in place of heavy cream, for a nuttier flavor and even creamier texture.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 teaspoon turmeric
3 bay leaves
10.5 ounces (300 g) potatoes, peeled and chopped into ½-inch (1.25 cm) pieces
½ pound (225 g) dill pickles, preferably Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles (page 204)
1 To make the walnut cream, in a medium pot, bring 1½ cups (360 ml)
water to a boil. Place the walnuts in a heat-safe bowl. Pour the boiling
water over them and allow to cool completely. (If you have time, soak
the walnuts overnight; this will produce a smoother consistency.)
Drain the walnuts and place them in a food processor with ½ cup (120
ml) water and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Blend until smooth, about 3
minutes.
2 To make the soup, heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat.
Add the onion and garlic and the remaining salt. Cook until the onion
is soft and translucent, about 6 minutes. Stir in the turmeric and bay
leaves. Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the carrot, celeriac,
potatoes, and vegetable broth. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally,
until tender, about 15 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, grate ¾ cup (3.75 oz/110 g) of the pickles using the large
holes of a box grater. Cut the remaining pickles into ¼-inch (6 mm)
slices. Add the grated and sliced pickles to the pot with the vegetables.
Cook for about 10 minutes, then stir in ¼ cup (60 ml) of the walnut
cream. (If you prefer less acidity, stir in more walnut cream.) Season
with pepper.
4 To serve, divide among bowls. Top with the dill and drizzle with the
rapeseed oil.
MISO ŻUREK
with mashed potatoes, roasted mushrooms, and chives
If I had to choose a Polish soup that every foreigner should try, it would be żurek. Its base is a
special sourdough żur, a fermented mixture of flour and mineral water, which makes it pleasantly
sour and creamy. A recipe for the traditional vegetarian żurek is in my first book, Fresh from
Poland, but I have an advanced version up my sleeve, too. This żurek is enhanced with miso
paste, which gives its flavor an electrifying depth. It isn’t a traditional Polish ingredient at all,
but it makes all the difference.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 garlic clove
ŻUREK
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons chives
1 To make the żur, place the all-purpose flour, rye flour, bread crusts,
garlic, and mineral water in a sterilized 1-quart (1 L) jar (see page
191). Cover with a kitchen towel. Leave to ferment at room
temperature for five days. Stir once a day. The fragrance should be
pleasantly sour but not overbearing. It should be more liquid than a
regular bread starter.
2 To make the żurek, when the żur is ready to use, combine 2¼ cups
(540 ml) żur with the vegetable broth, marjoram, and horseradish in a
large pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and cook over low heat until
the flavors combine, about 20 minutes. Measure out ½ cup (120 ml) of
the soup, stir in the miso paste until it dissolves, and pour back into the
pot.
3 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and reduce
the heat to a rapid simmer. Cook until the potatoes are very tender,
about 25 minutes. Drain and briefly rinse with cool water to remove
any excess starch. Mash the potatoes and add the butter. Season with
salt and pepper.
4 To serve, divide the mashed potatoes among bowls. Pour in the soup.
Add the mushrooms and eggs, and top with the chives.
Feel free to use store-bought white żur prepared with wheat flour instead of making your own. In
Poland, żur is available in bottles at almost every supermarket, especially during the Easter
season. Abroad, you can find it in Polish delis or online. If you can’t find white żur prepared with
wheat flour, substitute it with more common rye żur; 1 cup (240 ml) should be enough. It’s
stronger!
It’s important to use mineral water to make the żur, because tap water could slow the
fermentation process.
HALF-SOUR SALT-BRINED DILL PICKLES
Pickle fans, are you there? I have something to offer. Classic sweet pickles usually served on
burgers are great; fermented salt-brined pickles served next to Polish stews are even better. But
half-sour salt-brined pickles are the winners in the snacking category. Unbelievably crunchy,
with a sharp but mild taste.
3 to 4 bay leaves
1 In a large pot, bring 8 cups (2 L) water to a boil. Add the salt and stir
to dissolve.
2 Place half of the cucumbers in a sterilized 3-quart (3 L) jar (see page
191). Add the garlic, dill sprigs and flowers, horseradish, grape leaves,
and bay leaves, then add the remaining cucumbers. Pour the brine over
the cucumbers, leaving about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space at the top of the
jar. Completely submerge all of the cucumbers in the brine. Cover the
jar with a lid.
3 Ferment at room temperature for two to five days. The brine should
turn cloudy and bubbly. At this time, you can start tasting them. The
pickles will become more sour with each day.
Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles are an irresistible snack (it’s easy to devour them all), but you
can preserve the pickles for up to 2 weeks. Store in smaller jars with a tight lid in the fridge.
OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD SNACKING PICKLES
with sour cream, honey, and bee pollen
For many Poles, dill pickles with honey bring back childhood memories. For me, this actually
isn’t the case; I didn’t learn about pickles with honey until I was abroad, in a bar called
Agrikultur in Stockholm. When you bite into one, a variety of sensations burst in your mouth:
sour, sweet, crunchy, creamy! Since then, I’ve made this recipe every summer as a way to enjoy
my H alf-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles (page 204 ). H ere, I add bee pollen for a hint of bitterness.
This bite rivals any gourmet dinner appetizer!
SERVES 2 TO 4 AS A STARTER
3 tablespoons honey
Place the pickles, sour cream, and honey on a big plate, encouraging
guests to grab a pickle and dip in, or cut the pickles widthwise into ¾-
inch (2 cm) slices and top with 1 teaspoon sour cream, ½ teaspoon
honey, and a pinch of bee pollen.
SERVES 4
1 pound (450 g) baby or other small waxy potatoes, such as fingerling, scrubbed and halved
if large
1 garlic clove
5 radishes, quartered
1 Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. Season
with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until fork-
tender, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes and allow to cool slightly;
they should be warm when you dress them, to soak up the flavors
better.
2 To make the green sauce, blend the parsley, walnuts, garlic, vinegar,
oil, and the salt to create a coarse mixture. Season with salt and
pepper.
3 Toss the pickles, radishes, and onion with the potatoes and the green
sauce until fully coated.
4 Transfer to a large plate and top with the eggs, if using.
You can replace the radishes with asparagus—or add them both, if you’d like.
CHILLED HALF-SOUR CUCUMBER-MELON SOUP
with goat cheese, apple, and mint
When the weather gets hotter, there’s only one thing to do: Make the chilled soup called chłodnik.
During the summer, I make it from all kinds of seasonal fruits and vegetables, refrigerating it for
a while before serving. The most popular chilled soup in Poland is called chłodnik litewski—pink
like a summer sunset from beets, radishes, and buttermilk. When I’m feeling lazy, I make this
cucumber-melon chłodnik because it requires even less work and is just as refreshing.
SERVES 4
¼ cup (7.5 g) loosely packed fresh mint, plus more for serving
1 Remove the rind and seeds from the melon. Coarsely chop the pickles.
2 Place the melon, pickles, and the cucumbers into a food processor with
the sour cream, salt, mint, and vinegar. Blend until smooth.
3 Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours to chill the soup, or serve immediately.
Divide among four bowls and top with the goat cheese, apple, and
mint. Drizzle with the oil.
If your ingredients weren’t chilled prior to making the dish, you may want to refrigerate this
before serving. Alternatively, you can add two or three ice cubes to the food processor before
blending.
PICKLED CHANTERELLES
with rosemary and caraway seeds
Until recently, I considered pickled mushrooms to be a culinary embarrassment: a dusty jar in the
grocery store or in G randma’s cupboard. Then I tasted a pickled chanterelle, and I had a change
of heart; they were offered as an appetizer in a fairly upscale restaurant, along with zucchini,
mascarpone cream, and rosemary. Pickled mushrooms pack an unexpectedly serious punch on a
platter.
2 tablespoons sugar
2 rosemary sprigs
1 To clean the chanterelles, place them in a large bowl. Coat them in the
flour and cover with the cold water. Using a slotted spoon, remove the
chanterelles from the water and wash them in a fine-mesh sieve. Place
them on a paper or kitchen towel and pat dry.
2 In a medium saucepan, combine ⅔ cup (160 ml) water, the vinegar,
sugar, and caraway seeds, and bring to a boil.
3 Place the chanterelles in a sterilized 17-ounce (0.5 L) jar (see page
191) with the rosemary. Pour in the brine. Cover the jar and allow to
cool, then transfer to the refrigerator for at least six hours to pickle.
Caraway seeds and rosemary are a great combo, but you can also try the following:
1 medium lemon
NO-MEAT MEATBALLS
1 large egg
½ cup (15 g) chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, cilantro, oregano, or marjoram, plus
more for serving
TAHINI SAUCE
2 tablespoons tahini
1 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C), with the fan running. If you don’t
have an oven fan, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
2 Halve the lemon and thinly slice one half. Place the lemon slices,
Brussels sprouts, and pickled chanterelles on a rimmed baking sheet
and toss in the salt and oil. Roast in the oven, tossing occasionally,
until soft and deeply browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Squeeze the juice of
the remaining lemon over the vegetables.
3 To make the meatballs, in a large bowl, lightly beat the egg. Add the
bread, garlic, 3 tablespoons of the oil, the plant-based meat, pickled
chanterelles, mixed herbs, and salt, and stir to combine. Season with
pepper.
4 Moisten your hands with oil and roll the mixture into 12 equal-size
1½-inch (4 cm) balls.
5 Heat the remaining oil in a medium skillet. Panfry the meatballs until
golden, about 3 minutes per side. Set aside.
6 To make the tahini sauce, in a medium bowl, combine the sour cream,
tahini, and salt.
7 To serve, spread some of the tahini sauce over each plate. Top with the
Brussels sprouts, pickled chanterelles, and lemon slices, the no-meat
meatballs, and garnish with the herbs.
If you don’t want to panfry, which is the best way to achieve the beautiful golden skin of the no-
meat meatballs, you can roast them along with the veggies, for about 8 minutes. (But don’t
overcook, as this will alter their texture.)
When I dine at a restaurant, I start reading the menu from the very end:
the dessert section. I know that even the worst meal can be saved by
dessert, because the last bite will be sweet and remembered the most. I
follow the same rule every day: Put effort into making my day more
joyful. And there’s nothing more joyful than dessert. Not every meal has
to end with dessert, but it’s usually a good idea. On the hottest days of
summer, chilled peaches or a handful of strawberries are more than
enough. But I like to be more creative too and bake puff pastry
kremówka with raspberries (see page 226), which always impresses my
guests. (Don’t tell them that it’s so easy to prepare!) My appetite
increases in the fall. After eating the hazelnut cookies with chocolate and
kłodawska salt, I wipe the delicious chocolate from the corners of my
mouth (see page 231). I melt over creamy cheesecake, whose
caramelized layer I crack open like Amelie does crème brûlée (see page
221). I spend my afternoons in the company of a book, tea, and a piece
of tomato gingerbread layer cake with prune jam (see page 218) and
mornings forming the sweet buns filled with black currant and topped
with brown butter streusel (see page 223).
Sweetening is a technique you can use to pamper yourself and your
loved ones with something special. I’ve become an expert at this. The
name of my blog, Rozkoszny, means “ delightful” in English. It refers to
those magical moments of the human experience, the most pleasing
sensations in the world: the sensation of making food. I hope recreating
the recipes in this book will make your day more rozkoszny.
GINGERBREAD
3 large eggs
PRUNE J AM
GANACHE
1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and flour a 4 x 9-inch (10 x
23 cm) loaf pan.
2 To make the gingerbread, combine the flour, gingerbread spice, cocoa
powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Set
aside.
3 In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the eggs with the sugar at
high speed, until pale and airy, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and
combine. With the mixer running at medium speed, mix in the oil until
fully blended.
4 Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture. Keep the mixer running at
low speed to combine. (The batter should be thin.) Transfer the batter
to the prepared loaf pan.
5 Bake in the oven until the top of the cake is golden brown, the edges
pull away from the sides of the pan, and a tester inserted into the
center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven, let
sit for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and allow to cool
completely.
6 To make the prune jam, combine the prunes, orange liqueur, and 1 cup
(240 ml) water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the
heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally and mashing the prunes
with a wooden spoon or potato masher, for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove
from the heat and allow to cool completely.
7 When the cake and jam are cool, level and split the cake in half
horizontally. Spoon the jam on the bottom half, then cover it with the
top half.
8 To make the ganache, place the heavy cream in a small saucepan and
bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and stir until
melted and combined.
9 To serve, top the cake with the ganache and a bit of the orange zest.
Before buying gingerbread spice, check its ingredients. Good ones don’t contain sugar, just
spices.
You can use chopped fresh tomatoes, just blend them finer before adding.
CARAMELIZED TWARÓG BASQUE CHEESECAKE
Ever since I tried a slice of Basque cheesecake at La Viña in San Sebastian, Spain, it became my
favorite cheesecake. It’s not New York style. It’s well caramelized like a crème brûlée, with a
consistency as creamy as soft serve. When the recipe first appeared on my blog, many Poles
pointed out that it is very similar to a traditional Polish cheesecake called Viennese. The process
of making Viennese is slightly more complicated, and the consistency is lighter and less creamy.
This led me to make Basque cheesecake with Twaróg, to bring out both its characteristic sharp
taste and Polish vibes, so I can still enjoy otherworldly creaminess.
CHEESECAKE
35 ounces (1 kg) full-fat Twaróg or farmer cheese, pressed through a sieve or blended until
smooth
6 large eggs
PRALINE SAUCE
1½ tablespoons honey
1 Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C) and place a rack in the middle
position. Grease a 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan and line it with two
overlapping square sheets of parchment paper.
2 In a large bowl, combine the Twaróg and mascarpone with the 1 cup
(200 g) sugar and the vanilla seeds until smooth and fluffy. Add the
eggs one at a time, mixing to completely incorporate each one before
adding the next. Stir in the heavy whipping cream and salt. The batter
should be smooth and thick.
3 Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake in the oven until slightly
browned, with brown spots all over the top, but still very jiggly in the
center, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool
completely in the pan (it will collapse drastically as it cools). Chill in
the fridge for a minimum of 8 hours, to ensure that the cheesecake
achieves its perfect consistency.
4 To make the praline sauce, place the walnuts in a food processor and
pulse a few times until the walnuts are coarsely chopped. (You can do
this by hand, but a food processor ensures a more even consistency.)
5 In a medium saucepan, melt the butter and cook over medium heat
until golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the walnuts and
the brown sugar, heavy whipping cream, honey, and salt, and bring to
a boil. Cook over medium-low heat until it begins to thicken but still
has a thin consistency, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and
allow to cool.
6 Before serving, use a paper or kitchen towel to dry the top of the
cheesecake. Sprinkle the remaining sugar on top. Using a kitchen
blowtorch, caramelize the sugar until bubbly and dark brown. Let the
cheesecake stand for 1 minute for the sugar to harden. Serve in slices
with the praline sauce.
Making this cheesecake is very easy, but you have to keep an eye on it during the last 10 minutes
of baking. The tough part is taking it out of the oven when it feels undercooked. For a while, it’s
very pale. It only gets color in the last 5 to 10 minutes. When you shake the pan, the cheesecake
will jiggle in a way that feels underdone, but it is cooked as it should be. J ust take it out, let it
cool, and chill for at least 8 hours in the refrigerator. The chilling time is important, otherwise
you’ll end up with a puddle on your plate.
If you can’t find Twaróg or farmer cheese, cream cheese will work here, too.
DROŻDŻÓWKI
with black currant and brown butter streusel
Lukullus, one of the most iconic Warsaw pastry shops, carries delicious French-style tartlets,
puffs topped with streusel, and jagodzianki: sweet buns stuffed with wild blueberries, which are
considered the essence of Polish summer. It also sells drożdżówki: sweet buns with various
fillings. The black currant, or cassis, flavor is my favorite. When I make these at home, I stuff
them with currants so generously that it feels like they almost explode.
SERVES 9
DROŻDŻÓWKI
2 eggs
½ pound (225 g) black currant preserves or jam, preferably with reduced sugar
STREUSEL
1 Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat, then add the
milk. The mixture will be lukewarm, once combined.
2 In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt.
Add the butter mixture, 1 of the eggs, and the sour cream, and blend
well. Knead until a smooth dough forms, 10 to 15 minutes. Cover with
plastic wrap or aluminum foil and let rise until doubled in size, about
90 minutes.
3 To make the filling, combine the black currants and preserves in a
medium bowl. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
4 Sprinkle a working surface with flour. Divide the dough into 9 equal
pieces. Roll out each piece into a 4-inch (10 cm) circle. Transfer the
dough circles to a bowl. Place 3 tablespoons of the filling on a dough
circle, pressing it thoroughly. Pull the top side of the dough across to
the middle of the filling and place the opposite side on top of it. Now
you should see two openings, one on the left side and one on the right
side. Pull the left side of the dough across to the center and repeat on
the right side. Remove the bun from the bowl, and pinch the dough
where the sides meet, so that the seam is closed, and the filling is
completely concealed within the dough.
5 Place the buns seam-side down on the prepared baking sheet. Cover
with a kitchen towel and let rise for about 1 hour. If using frozen
currants, it may take longer (3 to 4 hours).
6 To make the streusel, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium
heat, until golden brown and fragrant, about 6 minutes. Remove from
the heat immediately and pour into a heat-safe medium bowl. Allow to
cool. Add the brown sugar, flour, and salt. Using a wooden spoon, mix
until the streusel thickens. Chill in the refrigerator until firm.
7 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). In a small bowl, whisk the
remaining egg, then brush the buns with the egg wash. Sprinkle the
buns with the crumbled streusel and the demerara sugar. Bake in the
oven until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven
and allow to cool before serving (the buns taste better at room
temperature).
KREMÓWKA
with vanilla cream and raspberries
Each nation in Europe has its own form of kremówka. The Austrians enjoy cremeschnitte, the
Belgians serve tompouce, the French make mille-feuille. The essence, however, is always the
same: two or three sheets of puff pastry layered with cream. Each bite leaves a trail of buttery
flakes on your plate. In the kitchen, I don’t shy away from shortcuts. So, when I make kremówka, I
use store-bought puff pastry. Whenever possible, I use the variety that’s made entirely of butter
(no oil). And I like a cream that’s lighter than the traditional one, so I incorporate mascarpone;
it’s surprisingly easy to make, and the final effect is spectacular.
SERVES 6
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
Kremówka tastes best right after it’s made, so I prefer to make it in smaller quantities that will be
eaten right away. But feel free to double the recipe if you have more people to treat to this
dessert.
CARAMEL PLUMS
with cinnamon, sour cream, and candied hazelnuts
I’m a dessert person, but sometimes I just want something simple that celebrates the season. This
recipe—plums bathed in caramel, which melds with the plum juices—is an ode to autumn.
SERVES 2 TO 4
3 tablespoons honey
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 Place the sour cream in a fine-mesh sieve above a bowl and set in the
fridge to drain. You can do this for 30 minutes or up to 12 hours in
advance. The longer it drains, the creamier it will be.
2 Coat a small sheet of parchment paper with oil. Heat the honey in a
small skillet and cook over medium heat until it begins to bubble. Add
the hazelnuts and salt. Cook until the hazelnuts are fully coated, about
3 minutes.
3 Transfer the candied hazelnuts to the prepared parchment paper and
allow to cool completely. When cooled, roughly chop them.
4 To make the caramel plums, put the sugar in a medium pot. Add 1 to 2
tablespoons water to moisten the sugar and cook over medium heat
until dark amber in color and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the
vinegar slowly, then add the plums and cinnamon. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until the plums soften a little and release their juices,
about 5 minutes. Set aside.
5 Place a dollop of the sour cream into each bowl. Arrange the caramel
plums and juice on top. Garnish with the candied hazelnuts and a
splash of cold-pressed rapeseed oil. Serve warm.
You can use any other kind of stone fruit, such as peaches or nectarines, for this treat.
HAZELNUT COOKIES
with dark chocolate and kłodawska salt
For many years, the most precious Polish treasure—more valuable than gold—was rock salt from
the Wieliczka mine. In 1996, the mine was closed and it became a tourist destination (the
underground chapel carved into the salt is breathtaking). Currently, Wieliczka salt comes only
from the saline waters flowing into the mine. All eyes are now on Kłodawa salt, which is
unrefined and contains other minerals in addition to sodium chloride, including calcium,
magnesium, potassium, zinc, and iron. This recipe pays tribute to this beautiful ingredient. The
pairing of dark chocolate and salt is possibly the best there is, a classic pairing for successful
cookies. When making cookies, I like to use brown butter and add ground hazelnut flour to bring
out the fragrance.
2 large eggs
1 Place ½ cup (1 stick/113 g) of the butter in a large bowl and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, melt the remaining butter over medium heat,
stirring often, until the butter is foaming and fragrant, about 7 minutes.
Add the browned butter to the butter in the bowl. Allow to cool
completely. This is an important step that prevents the cookies from
having a gritty texture.
2 Place 1 cup (130 g) of the hazelnuts in a food processor. Blend until
they become a coarse flour, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a medium
bowl and add the flour, baking powder, and salt.
3 In the bowl with the butter, add the dark brown and granulated sugars.
Whisk vigorously until the mixture is very smooth and thick, about 1
minute. Add the eggs and vanilla, and whisk until combined, about 30
seconds. Add the flour mixture and whisk until the batter is smooth.
Chop the remaining hazelnuts, add to the batter, and add the chocolate.
Mix into the batter completely until it forms a slightly sticky dough.
4 Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Divide the dough into 18
balls, about 2½ tablespoons each. Place the balls on the prepared
baking sheet as close together as possible. Cover the baking sheet
tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to
48 hours.
5 Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line two baking sheets with
parchment paper.
6 Put half of the balls on each prepared baking sheet and bake in the
oven, rotating the sheets if the cookies are browning unevenly, until
deep golden brown and firm around the edges, about 15 minutes.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the baking sheets.
Transfer to a plate and then serve.
10.5 ounces (300 g) leftover (or imperfect) cake, such as pound cake, muffins, or brioche,
crumbled
3 tablespoons chocolate cream, like Homemade Chocolate Hazelnut Spread (page 80)
1 Place the cranberries in a small bowl. Pour in the rum and let steep
until the cranberries have absorbed the liquid, about 30 minutes.
2 Using an electric mixer, in a medium bowl, combine the cake,
digestives, ¼ cup (25 g) of the cocoa powder, and the salt, until the
mixture resembles the texture of fine bread crumbs, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the chocolate cream and the rum-soaked cranberries with any
liquid that hasn’t been absorbed. Mix to combine for about 2 minutes.
If the dough is too dry, add more rum. If it’s too wet, add more
leftover cake.
3 Form the dough into 12 balls (about 1.5 ounces/45 g each), place on a
baking sheet, and refrigerate. Chill until firm, about 1 hour.
4 Bring a medium saucepan of water to barely a simmer. Place the
chocolate and butter in a medium heat-safe bowl and set it over the
saucepan. Do not let the bowl touch the water. Stir until the chocolate
is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and allow
to cool slightly.
5 Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place each bajaderka in the
melted chocolate and toss to coat completely, then transfer to the
prepared baking sheet. Let sit until the chocolate begins to set, about
15 minutes.
6 Place the remaining cocoa powder in a medium bowl and toss the
bajaderka until coated. Return them to the prepared baking sheet and
chill in the fridge until the chocolate hardens, about 30 minutes.
Instead of using alcohol (bajaderki do taste like rum and feel a bit like a shot), use strong Earl
Grey tea.
LAVENDER AND VANILLA SABLÉ COOKIES
My grandma would always bake sablés coated in powdered sugar to keep on hand for surprise
visitors. After crossing the threshold of her house, my brother and I would run straight to her
kitchen cabinets to look for them. We let our noses follow the buttery smell, leading us to the
metal container layered with the small goodies. I also like to treat myself and my guests to
homemade cookies. I enrich my grandmother’s recipe with lavender, making these fit for a
princess.
2 vanilla beans
3 tablespoons fresh or 2 tablespoons dried culinary lavender, plus more for serving
(optional)
Stored in an airtight container, these cookies will keep for at least 4 to 5 days. You can also freeze
the raw dough, wrapped in plastic, for up to 3 months. Before baking, let the dough sit at room
temperature for about 10 minutes, to make it easier to cut.
SALTED SZARLOTKA (APPLE PIE)
with no-churn brown butter ice cream
Szarlotka is my favorite, and after you try this recipe, I’m sure it’ll be your favorite, too. On the
surface, it’s a traditional apple pie, but what makes this pie unlike any other is the salt. The short-
crust pastry is seasoned with a substantial amount of sea salt, which fearlessly dances on the
taste buds. I pair this with brown butter, slowly cooked until fragrant and amber in color. I like to
serve apple pie with ice cream infused with a hint of brown butter. It doesn’t require any special
equipment to make, nor stirring to ensure creaminess. “I love this szarlotka so much, I wish I
could smell like this,” I once said on my cooking show. A few months later, a friend gifted me a
voucher to a Warsaw perfume shop where you can create your own fragrance. This is how my
perfume—with undertones of brown butter, apples, and sea salt—was made. I wear this and
proudly smell like my favorite pie.
ICE CREAM
SZARLOTKA
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3½ pounds (1.6 kg) tart apples, such as Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, or Honeycrisp,
peeled and cut into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces
1 egg yolk
1 To make the ice cream, melt the butter in a medium skillet over
medium heat until golden brown and fragrant, about 6 minutes.
Remove from the heat immediately and pour into a medium heat-safe
bowl. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes, then stir in the sweetened
condensed milk and salt. Whisk until smooth. Allow to cool
completely.
2 In a large metal bowl, whisk the heavy whipping cream until stiff
peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Add one third of the whipped cream to the
butter mixture, folding it in gently.
3 Add half of the cream-and-butter mixture to the remaining whipped
cream, folding it in gently, then gently fold in the remaining cream-
and-butter mixture. It will lose a bit of airiness but should remain
fluffy.
4 Pour the mixture into a 9 x 5-inch (23 x 12 cm) baking pan. Freeze
until firm, about 6 hours.
5 To make the szarlotka filling, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a
large pot over medium heat. Add the cinnamon and lemon zest. Cook,
stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the apples.
Cook, covered, over low heat, until the apples start to soften, 20 to 30
minutes. Uncover the pot and cook until the juices evaporate and
about half of the apples are beginning to fall apart, 10 to 15 minutes.
Add the lemon juice. If the apple mixture is not sweet enough, stir in
some of the sugar. Transfer the apples to a medium bowl. Allow to
cool completely.
6 To make the crust, melt the remaining butter in a medium skillet over
medium heat. Cook, stirring often, for 8 to 10 minutes, until fragrant
and golden brown. Remove from the heat immediately and transfer to
a heat-safe bowl. Allow to cool to lukewarm.
7 Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the cooled
brown butter; the brown butter must be lukewarm or it will cook the
flour. Add the egg yolk and stir to combine. Divide the dough into two
pieces. Wrap one piece in plastic wrap and chill in the freezer or
refrigerator until firm. Sprinkle the other half with a little flour and
press the dough into the bottom of a springform cake pan, pressing the
dough 1 inch (2.5 cm) up the side of the pan. Chill in the freezer or
refrigerator until firm.
8 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Fill the dough-lined pan with the
apples. Crumble the remaining dough and sprinkle over the apples.
Bake in the oven until golden brown, about 40 minutes. Remove from
the oven and allow to cool, then dust with powdered sugar.
9 A few minutes before serving, remove the ice cream from the freezer
to soften, then serve with slices of the szarlotka.
WALNUT CAKE
with plums and thyme
It may appear to be a simple cake, but when your guests taste this delicious dessert, suddenly all
goes quiet as everyone enjoys their slice. I’ve baked many fancy desserts, but nothing compares
to the flavor of a nut cake filled with tart fruits—almonds with apricots, pistachios with
raspberries, or walnuts with plums. Thyme adds a beautiful, earthy flavor that flirts ever so
slightly with the plum gems. This cake isn’t particularly sweet, so I like to serve it with whipped
cream for extra pleasure.
2 tablespoons walnut oil, cold-pressed rapeseed oil, or extra virgin olive oil
2 large eggs
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Baby Potatoes and Asparagus, ref 1, ref 2
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bay leaves
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broccoli
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butter
Baby Potatoes and Whipped Twaróg, ref 1, ref 2
browning, ref 2
Buttery Mushroom and Rosemary Confit, ref 1, ref 2
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Drożdżówki, ref 1, ref 2
Salted Szarlotka (Apple Pie), ref 1, ref 2
Tomatoes and Peaches, ref 1, ref 2
buttermilk, ref 1, ref 2
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cabbage
Cabbage Salad, ref 1, ref 2
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cake, leftover, ref 1, ref 2
capers, ref 1, ref 2
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Caramelized Red Onion Pasta with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Smoked
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Caramelized Squash with Garlic Pumpkin Seeds and Lemony Yogurt, ref
1, ref 2
Caramelized Twaróg Basque Cheesecake, ref 1, ref 2, ref 3
Caramel Plums with Cinnamon, Sour Cream, and Candied Hazelnuts, ref
1, ref 2
caraway seeds, ref 1, ref 2
carrots
Caramelized Baby Carrots, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Rainbow V eggies, ref 1, ref 2
cauliflower
Cauliflower-Potato Harissa Krokiety, ref 1, ref 2
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celeriac
Celeriac Schnitzel, ref 1, ref 2
Ogórkowa (Dill Pickle Soup), ref 1, ref 2
Potato and Smoked Twaróg Pierogi, ref 1, ref 2
Chanterelle Challah Toast with Roasted Garlic Butter, Soaked in
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Charred Broccoli with “ Fifth Flavor Sauce,” Lemony Mayo, and Poppy
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Charred Corn Risotto with Cherry Tomatoes and Hazelnuts, ref 1, ref 2
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2
cheese
about, ref 1
Baby Potatoes and Whipped Twaróg, ref 1, ref 2
Cabbage Salad, ref 1, ref 2
Caramelized Red Onion Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
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Chilled Half-Sour Cucumber-Melon Soup, ref 1, ref 2
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Croque Madame, ref 1, ref 2
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Goat Cheese Pierogi, ref 1, ref 2
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Pearl Barley Salad, ref 1, ref 2
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Tomatoes and Golden Berries, ref 1, ref 2
Tomatoes and Peaches, ref 1, ref 2
Zucchini Carpaccio, ref 1, ref 2
Cherry Tomato Confit, ref 1, ref 2
in Creamy Confit Tomato Soup, ref 1, ref 2
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chickpeas
Chickpea Spread, ref 1, ref 2
Creamy Lentil Soup, ref 1, ref 2
chiles, red
Fermented Cherry Tomatoes, ref 1, ref 2
Smashed Cucumber, ref 1, ref 2
Chilled Half-Sour Cucumber-Melon Soup with Goat Cheese, Apple, and
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Chilled Tomato-Strawberry Chłodnik, ref 1, ref 2
chives
Fermented Cherry Tomato Salad, ref 1, ref 2
Miso Żurek, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Cauliflower, ref 1, ref 2
chocolate
Buckwheat Porridge, ref 1, ref 2
Hazelnut Cookies, ref 1, ref 2
cilantro, ref 1, ref 2
cinnamon
Caramel Plums, ref 1, ref 2
Spiced Millet and Butternut Squash, ref 1, ref 2
cookies, ref 1, ref 2
coriander
Caramelized Baby Carrots, ref 1, ref 2
Charred Corn Soup, ref 1, ref 2
corn
Charred Corn Risotto, ref 1, ref 2
Charred Corn Soup, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Corn, ref 1, ref 2
Creamy Confit Tomato Soup, ref 1, ref 2
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Chilled Half-Sour Cucumber-Melon Soup, ref 1, ref 2
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currants, black, ref 1, ref 2
cutting techniques, ref 1
dill
Baby Potatoes and Whipped Twaróg, ref 1, ref 2
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Croque Madame, ref 1, ref 2
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ginger
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Fermented Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
gingerbread spice, ref 1, ref 2
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grapes
Autumn Sauerkraut Bigos, ref 1, ref 2
Crunchy Broccoli and Hazelnuts, ref 1, ref 2
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All the Leaves, ref 1, ref 2
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in Baby Potatoes and Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
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in Out-Of-This-World Snacking Pickles, ref 1, ref 2
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harissa paste
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Steamed Corn, ref 1, ref 2
leeks
Celeriac Schnitzel, ref 1, ref 2
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Kakory (Potato Hand Pies), ref 1, ref 2
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Chilled Half-Sour Cucumber-Melon Soup, ref 1, ref 2
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Roasted Eggplant, ref 1, ref 2
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Zucchini Carpaccio, ref 1, ref 2
miso paste
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Miso Red Cabbage Stew, ref 1, ref 2
Miso Żurek, ref 1, ref 2
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mustard seeds
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Not-Your-Average Kanapka with Twarożek and Buttery Mushroom and
Rosemary Confit, ref 1, ref 2
Ogórkowa (Dill Pickle Soup) with Celeriac, Turmeric, and Walnut
Cream, ref 1, ref 2
oil, cold-pressed rapeseed, ref 1
olives, green
Cabbage Salad, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Soup, ref 1, ref 2
onions
Baby Potatoes and Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Caramelized Red Onion Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
Chickpea Spread, ref 1, ref 2
Pearl Barley Salad, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Parsley Root, ref 1, ref 2
orange juice, ref 1, ref 2
Out-Of-This-World Snacking Pickles with Sour Cream, Honey, and Bee
Pollen, ref 1, ref 2
panko
about, ref 1
Better-Than-Schabowy Parasol Mushroom Schnitzel, ref 1, ref 2
Crispy Brussels Sprouts, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Leeks, ref 1, ref 2
Pan-Roasted Cabbage with Brown Harissa, Sour Cream, and Turmeric
Oil, ref 1, ref 2
Parowańce (Steamed Buns) with Fava Beans, Oyster Mushrooms, and
Lemony Tahini Sauce, ref 1, ref 2
parsley
Baby Potatoes and Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Cabbage Salad, ref 1, ref 2
Caramelized Red Onion Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
Chickpea Spread, ref 1, ref 2
Crispy Brussels Sprouts, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Green Beans, ref 1, ref 2
parsley root, ref 1, ref 2
pasta
Caramelized Red Onion Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
Creamy Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
Nettle Pesto Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
Pasta and Fermented Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Sauerkraut Ł azanki, ref 1, ref 2
peaches, ref 1, ref 2
Pearl Barley Salad with Pickled Red Onion, Fennel, and Szafir Cheese,
ref 1, ref 2
peppercorns, black, ref 1, ref 2
peppers, red
Grilled Red Peppers, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Soup, ref 1, ref 2
White Bean Fritters, ref 1, ref 2
Pickled Chanterelles with Rosemary and Caraway Seeds, ref 1, ref 2
in No-Meat Meatballs, ref 1, ref 2
pistachios
Beet-Kohlrabi Surówki, ref 1, ref 2
Caramelized Baby Carrots, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Soup, ref 1, ref 2
plum jam, ref 1, ref 2
plums
Baked Zucchini, ref 1, ref 2
Caramel Plums, ref 1, ref 2
Walnut Cake, ref 1, ref 2
pomegranates, ref 1, ref 2
poppy seeds
Charred Broccoli, ref 1, ref 2
Poppy Furikake, ref 1, ref 2
potatoes
Baby Potatoes and Asparagus, ref 1, ref 2
Baby Potatoes and Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Baby Potatoes and Whipped Twaróg, ref 1, ref 2
Cauliflower-Potato Harissa Krokiety, ref 1, ref 2
Kakory (Potato Hand Pies), ref 1, ref 2
Kluski Śląskie (Silesian Dumplings), ref 1, ref 2
Mashed Potatoes, ref 1, ref 2
Miso Żurek, ref 1, ref 2
Potato and Smoked Twaróg Pierogi, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted French Fries, ref 1, ref 2
prunes, ref 1, ref 2
puff pastry, ref 1, ref 2
pumpkin seeds, ref 1, ref 2
radishes
Baby Potatoes and Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Fermented Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Fried Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Nettle Pesto Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
Romaine Lettuce and Radish, ref 1, ref 2
raspberries
Buckwheat Porridge, ref 1, ref 2
Kremówka, ref 1, ref 2
red pepper flakes
Charred Corn Soup, ref 1, ref 2
Grilled Apricots, ref 1, ref 2
rice, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Cauliflower with Chanterelle Sauce, Rye Croutons, and Chives,
ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Eggplant and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip with Polish Dukkah, ref 1,
ref 2
Roasted Eggplant with Crispy Buckwheat, Mint, and Sour Cream, ref 1,
ref 2
Roasted French Fries with Dill Pickles, Szafir Cheese, and Bay Leaf–
Allspice Mayo, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Green Beans with Smoked Tofu, Parsley, and Lemon, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Mushrooms to Die For, ref 1, ref 2
in Miso Żurek, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Parsley Root with Red Onion and Whiskey J am, Smoked
Twaróg, and Mint, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Soup with Pan Fried Olives and
Pistachios, ref 1, ref 2
Romaine Lettuce and Radish with Sunflower Cream and Scallions, ref 1,
ref 2
rosemary sprigs
Buttery Mushroom and Rosemary Confit, ref 1, ref 2
Chanterelle Challah Toast, ref 1, ref 2
Pickled Chanterelles, ref 1, ref 2
rum, dark, ref 1, ref 2
sage leaves, ref 1, ref 2
salt
Half-Sour Salt-Brined Dill Pickles, ref 1, ref 2
Hazelnut Cookies, ref 1, ref 2
Salted Szarlotka (Apple Pie), ref 1, ref 2
sauerkraut
Autumn Sauerkraut Bigos, ref 1, ref 2
Kluski Śląskie (Silesian Dumplings), ref 1, ref 2
Sauerkraut Ł azanki, ref 1, ref 2
scallions, ref 1, ref 2
sesame seeds
Poppy Furikake, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Eggplant Lettuce Tacos, ref 1, ref 2
shallots
Grilled Apricots, ref 1, ref 2
Smashed Cucumber, ref 1, ref 2
Sheet-Pan Kopytka with White Beans, Brussels Sprouts, and Polish
Za’atar, ref 1, ref 2
Smashed Cucumber with Smoked Tofu Walnut Sauce, Crispy Shallots,
and Chile, ref 1, ref 2
Smoked Tofu Spread with Chanterelles, Cucumber, and Nigella Seeds,
ref 1, ref 2
sour cream
Caramel Plums, ref 1, ref 2
Cauliflower-Potato Harissa Krokiety, ref 1, ref 2
Out-Of-This-World Snacking Pickles, ref 1, ref 2
Pan-Roasted Cabbage, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Eggplant, ref 1, ref 2
Sour Cream Labneh, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Leeks, ref 1, ref 2
soy sauce
about, ref 1, ref 2
Crispy Smoked Tofu, ref 1, ref 2
Freakishly Good Kopytka, ref 1, ref 2
Spiced Millet and Butternut Squash with Bay Leaf, Cinnamon, and
Allspice, ref 1, ref 2
spinach, baby, ref 1, ref 2
squash, butternut
Autumn Sauerkraut Bigos, ref 1, ref 2
Spiced Millet and Butternut Squash, ref 1, ref 2
squash, winter, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Corn with Lavender-Thyme Butter, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Eggplant Lettuce Tacos with Umami Bomb Sauce and Sesame
Seeds, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Leeks with Sour Cream, Panko-Coated Egg, and Green Crisps,
ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Rainbow V eggies with Herby Broth and Carrot-Green Pesto, ref
1, ref 2
stir-fry suggestions, ref 2
strawberries, ref 1, ref 2
sunflower seeds
Romaine Lettuce and Radish, ref 1, ref 2
Sour Cream Labneh, ref 1, ref 2
tahini
No-Meat Meatballs, ref 1, ref 2
Parowańce (Steamed Buns), ref 1, ref 2
thyme
Garlic Confit, ref 1, ref 2
Steamed Corn, ref 1, ref 2
Walnut Cake, ref 1, ref 2
tofu, smoked
about, ref 1
Crispy Smoked Tofu, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Green Beans, ref 1, ref 2
Smashed Cucumber, ref 1, ref 2
Smoked Tofu Spread, ref 1, ref 2
tomatoes
Beet Greens Gołąbki, ref 1, ref 2
The Big Flavor Roasted Tomato Broth, ref 1, ref 2
Caramelized Red Onion Pasta, ref 1, ref 2
Charred Corn Risotto, ref 1, ref 2
Cherry Tomato Confit, ref 1, ref 2
Chilled Tomato-Strawberry Chłodnik, ref 1, ref 2
Creamy Confit Tomato Soup, ref 1, ref 2
Fermented Cherry Tomatoes, ref 1, ref 2
Grilled Apricots, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Eggplant and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip, ref 1, ref 2
Roasted Red Pepper and Tomato Soup, ref 1, ref 2
Tomatoes and Golden Berries, ref 1, ref 2
Tomatoes and Peaches, ref 1, ref 2
Tomato Gingerbread Layer Cake, ref 1, ref 2
turmeric
Grilled Apricots, ref 1, ref 2
Grilled Red Peppers, ref 1, ref 2
Ogórkowa (Dill Pickle Soup), ref 1, ref 2
Pan-Roasted Cabbage, ref 1, ref 2
vanilla beans
Kremówka, ref 1, ref 2
Lavender and V anilla Sablé Cookies, ref 1, ref 2
vinegars, fruit, ref 2
vodka, ref 1, ref 2
walnuts
Baked Zucchini, ref 1, ref 2
Forever Green Lentil Cutlet, ref 1, ref 2
Grilled Leeks, ref 1, ref 2
Luxurious Walnut-Mushroom Pasztet (Polish Pâté), ref 1, ref 2
Ogórkowa (Dill Pickle Soup), ref 1, ref 2
Pasta and Fermented Radishes, ref 1, ref 2
Smashed Cucumber, ref 1, ref 2
Walnut Cake, ref 1, ref 2
whiskey, ref 1, ref 2
White Bean, Roasted Garlic, and Mushroom Spread with Horseradish
and Dill, ref 1, ref 2
White Bean Fritters with Romesco Sauce, ref 1, ref 2
wine, white, ref 1, ref 2
yogurt, Greek
Caramelized Squash, ref 1, ref 2
Grilled Red Peppers, ref 1, ref 2
Zero-Waste Bajaderki (Truffle Rum Balls), ref 1, ref 2
zucchini
Baked Zucchini, ref 1, ref 2
Celeriac Schnitzel, ref 1, ref 2
Sauerkraut Ł azanki, ref 1, ref 2
Zucchini Carpaccio, ref 1, ref 2
POLISH’D: Modern Vegetarian Cooking from G lobal Poland
Text and photographs copyright © 2023 by Michał Korkosz
Photographs on pages iii, viii, 3, 18, 45, 77, 86, 90, 152– 53, 179– 80, 227, 240, 242, and author
photograph, copyright © 2023 by Mateusz Grzelak
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Korkosz, Michał, author.
Title: Polish’d / Michał Korkosz.
Description: New York : The Experiment, 2023. | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2023021869 (print) | LCCN 2023021870 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Cooking, Polish. | V egetarian cooking. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX 723.5.P6 K68 2023 (print) | LCC TX 723.5.P6 (ebook) | DDC 641.59438
—dc23/eng/20230515
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2023021869
LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2023021870
Ebook ISBN 978-1-61519-996-9
Cover and text design by J ack Dunnington