.

INTRODUCTION TO INDUSTRIAL ARTS 2

INFORMATION SHEET 1.1

LESSON 2: HARDWARE

1. Nails – are made of such materials as iron, steel, copper, bronze, aluminum, and
stainless steel that have special coating of zinc, cement, or resin. Nails are sold in a very
wide variety of sizes and types.

Types of Nails
a. Common nails – they have a heavy cross section and are used for rough
carpentry work.
b. Box nails – these are used for light construction, crafting, and boxed.
c. Casing nails – they have the same weight as the box nails but have small conical
heads.
d. Finishing nails – these are the thinnest and have the smallest heads. As the same
implies, they are used for finishing like in double walling, in cabinets, and in
furniture works.

2. Screws – are sometimes used instead of nails because of their holding power, less
chance of injuring the material, and are easier to remove, in case repairs are to be made.
Screws are usually purchased not by weight. If you are ordering screws, it is important
to give specific details:
a. Gauge number
b. Type of head
c. Length in inches and millimeters.

3. Fasteners – hinges are used to fasten two pieces of wood that need to be closed or
opened like windows, doors, cabinets, trunks, chest, and boxes.
a. Hanger bolt has wood screw thread on one end and machine thread on the
other.
b. Lug screws and carriage bolts are used for rough construction or for concealed
work in cabinet making.
c. Stone bolts are used frequently in metal work and in joining center parts in
woodwork.
d. Corrugated fasteners are used or rough woods.
e. Steel splines can be driven into softwood along the grain, but it is better to cut
a saw kerf first.

FINISHING MATERIALS
After preparing the surfaces of the article, the next step in wood finishing is the
application of the desired finishing materials.

Finishing may be classified into shellac finish, paint, lacquer finish, varnish
finish, or wax finish.

1. Shellac – this gum substance of insects. It is a wood finishing material similar to

varnish. Alcohol is used to dissolve the gum in a ratio of three kilos to a gallon of
alcohol.

Two kinds of shellac used in finishing

a. Orange Shellac – natural type
b. White Shellac – produced by bleaching

Applying Shellac
a. Pour shellac into a small tin can with a wide mouth.
b. Wet the cotton cloth with shellac. Squeeze it gently to remove excess shellac.
 c. Using the wet cotton cloth, apply shellac in circular motion all over the surface.
Repeat the application until the surface has a thick even coating of shellac.
d. Rub the surface in straight motions to make it smooth and shiny.

2. Varnish – this is thinned with turpentine and takes about 24 hours to dry. It is a
good wood preservative and is more resistant to heat and water.

Applying Varnish
a. Pour enough varnish into a small container.
b. Dip the brush into the varnish lightly to prevent the formation of bubbles.
c. Press the brush against the edges of the container to remove the surplus varnish.
d. Apply the varnish on the surface from the center toward the other edges in one
direction only. Let the varnish dry for 24 hours.
e. When the varnish is dry, sand and surface with 8/0n(280) garnet paper with
grain.
f. Brush off the particles resulting from the sanding with a new, clean, and dry
brush.
g. Wipe the surface with a clean cloth dipped in turpentine. Apply the second coat
and let it dry for 48 hours.
h. Rub the surface with no. 400 finishing paper, lubricating it with rubbing oil or
water, after the second coat has dried up. Do the final rubbing of oil or water.

3. Paint – this is made of pigment, oil, oil, and turpentine. It is used where a
transparent finish may not be desired. It is recommended for outdoor furniture because
it is resistant to sunlight and rain.

Paints are classified according to the following:

Classification Solvent or mixed with Used for painting

Latex paint Water Concrete
Enamel paint Paint thinner Wood, metal, and other
Turpentine materials
Lacquer paint Lacquer thinner Wood, metal, and other
materials

Applying Paint
a. Shake the can and paint.
b. Open the can and stir the paint with a stick until the right color shows.
c. Dip the brush into the paint and apply on the surface to be painted.

4. Lacquer – this serves to protect the finish. Lacquer may be applied with a very
smooth-bristle paint brush, flannel cloth, or with a sprayer.

5. Stain – wood stain is used to color the surface of the wood before applying varnish
and any finishing material. The colors are derived from different colors of wood such as
walnut, mahogany, and natural color. Stain is sold in cans or bottles and they are
classified according to the solvent used in applying. They are as follows:
a. Oil stain – this is aniline dye dissolved in alcohol or lacquer thinner.
b. Water stain – this is an aniline dye dissolved in water.
c. Spirit stain – this is an aniline dye dissolved in alcohol or lacquer thinner.
 INTRODUCTION TO INDUSTRIAL ARTS 2
INFORMATION SHEET 1.2

LESSON 3: CONSTRUCTING COMMON WOOD JOINTS

Joinery is the process of putting together the parts of a piece of work. There are many
types of wood joints for furniture and cabinet work. However, the joints that are
described in this lesson are the basic ones for beginners.

Kinds of joints
1. Butt joint – this is the simplest and easiest to make of all the wood joints. It is
used in simple box construction. The end of one member is joined or butted to
the face or edge of another member and held together by nails, screws, or with
corrugated metal fasteners.

Steps in making butt joint

a. Test the squares of the end of the wood or broad that is to be butted
against another piece of wood.
b. Locate and mark on the face of the first member the place where the end of
the member is to be joined.
c. Prepare and apply wood glue on the part where the members are to be
joined.
d. Hold the members together and in position by an appropriate clamp.
e. Drive nails into the joint. Do not drive more nails than what is required.

2. Miter joint – this is a joint where the ends to be joined together are cut at 45
degrees. Miter joints are butted together at the end and held by a nail or by a
corrugated metal at the back.

Steps in making Miter joint

a. From the lower end of the miter, square a line across the edge.
b. Place the stock of a bench hook or hold it on a vise.
c. Saw the miter with a backsaw.
d. Try to fit the members together. Try for squareness with a try square.
e. Prepare and apply glue to the miter on both members. Hold them together
in their proper position on the vise.
f. Drill a pilot hole with a nail. Drive the nail into the pilot hole.

3. Dado joint – this is a joint in which the end of one member is fitted into a recess
cut across the face of another member. It is one of the strongest joints. It is used
in drawer construction, shelves, and bookcases.

Steps in making dado joint

a. Place the square pieces to dimension.
b. Locate the surface of one of the pieces where the dado is to be cut. Mark
the location.
c. Place the other piece in position over the marked piece on the place where
the dado is to be cut. Make the thickness of this other piece on the surface
of the first piece.
d. Square the lines across the surface of the piece to be done. Use a knife or a
sharp pencil with a try square.
e. Square the lines across both edges of the piece to be dadoed from the lines
marked across its surface.
f. Mark the depth of the dado with a marking gauge.
 g. Saw inside on the waste side of the line to the depth of the dado. Use a
sharp backsaw.
h. Pare off the waste between the saw cuts with a chisel.
i. Make a trial assembly of the two pieces. The end of the other piece should
fit snugly into the dado without having to be driven into place.
j. Apply glue to the joint. Assemble those permanently using clamps, nails,
or screws to hold the members together.

4. Rabbet joint – this is similar to the dado joint. The end of one member is fitted
into a recess cut across the surface of the other member at its end. The difference
between a dado joint and a rabbet joint is that in the rabbet joint, the pieces are
joined together at the end. It is commonly used in making drawers and
bookcases.

Steps in Making Rabbet Joint

a. Plane and square to dimensions the pieces to be joined.
b. Measure the thickness of the piece to be fitted into the rabbet.
c. Mark across the surface to be rabbeted with the marking gauge.
d. Set again the marking gauge to the desired depth of the rabbet and mark
along the end of the piece mark also on both edges of the pieces.
e. Square lines across the edges from the gauge lines on the surface of the
piece to be rabbeted.
f. Place the piece to be rabbeted on the vise. Saw inside on the waste side of
the line until the depth of the rabbet.
g. Pare off the remaining waste stock with a chisel.
h. Make a trial assembly of the rabbet joint. The outer surface of the piece
fitted into the rabbet should be flush or even with the end of the other
piece.
i. Apply wood glue and assemble the rabbet permanently with nails or
screws.

5. Lap joint – this is another simple and commonly used joint. It is called a lap
joint because ½ of the thickness of each member is removed from the part where
they are to be joined. They are the end lap joint, the middle lap joint, and the
cross lap joint.
● The end lap joint is used to join two pieces end to end for additional
length
● The middle lap joint looks like a letter “T” where the end of one member
is joined at the middle of the member.
● The cross lap, as the name implies, looks like a cross where the middle
part of one member is joined across the middle part of another member.
It is commonly used in furniture making.

Steps in Making Cross Lap Joint

a. Plane and square dimension the pieces that are to be joined.
b. Mark on one piece the location of the cross lap joint. Place the other piece over
the marked piece. Mark on each piece the width of the other.
c. On the marks indicating the width of each piece, square line across the surfaces of
both pieces. A knife or a sharp pencil should be used with a try square.
d. Square the lines across the edge of both pieces from the lines squared across the
surface.
e. Measure ½ of the thickness of pieces and set the marking gauge to this
measurement. Gauge the notch or depth of the lap joint on both pieces.
f. Saw inside the line on the waste side of the surfaces of both pieces.
g. Make a few extra saw cuts on the waste stock inside the marked lines until the
notch.
h. Pare off the waste with a chisel. Use a sharp chisel to make clean cuts.
 i. Make a trial assembly of the pieces. Do not force the pieces into each other. The
surfaces should be flush or level.
j. Separate the pieces. Apply wood glue and assemble the pieces.

6. Mortise and Tenon joint – this is a joint in which one member is prepared
with a rectangular hollow called mortise to the other end of the other member
shaped to fit into the mortise. This part is called the tenon. It is commonly used
in cabinet construction.

Steps in Making Mortise and Tenon Joint

a. Plane and square to dimension the pieces to be joined.
b. Determine the width and length of the mortise.
c. Lay out the length of the mortise as determined. Use a sharp knife or a sharp
pointed pencil to mark.
d. Set the mortise gauge to the correct width of the mortise and to its proper
distance from the edge of the stock.
e. Lay out the width of the mortise with the mortise gauge.
f. Clamp the piece to be mortised on the bench.
g. Select an auger bit that fits into the width of the mortise. Fasten the bit into the
brace. Bore a series of holes into the mortise to the desired depth.
h. Fit the tenon into the mortise and check whether the joint is snugly fit and is not
twisted. Make necessary paring on the sides of the mortise with a chisel to get a
proper fit of the tenon into the mortise.
i. Make final assembly of the mortise and tenon joint by applying glue and holding
together with a clamp.