0% found this document useful (0 votes)
254 views216 pages

Guide-Cacao Quality and Flavour-27Sept2023 Updated

Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
254 views216 pages

Guide-Cacao Quality and Flavour-27Sept2023 Updated

Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 216

A

GUIDE FOR THE ASSESSMENT OF

Cacao Quality
and Flavour

Part A | General considerations 1


Citation: Cacao of Excellence. 2023. Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour. Compiled by the Cacao of Excellence programme of
the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT, in collaboration with the members of the Working Group on the development of the International
Standards for the Assessment of Cocoa Quality and Flavour (ISCQF). Bioversity International. 216 Pages.
ISBN 978-92-9255-295-4 Print Issue
ISBN 978-92-9255-296-1 Digital Issue

Compilers and Editors


Brigitte Laliberté, Dolores Alvarado, Nadia Villaseñor (Bioversity International) and Sara Fusi (RB-ELLI )
Creative director, layout, and design
Daniel Gutiérrez (Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT, Communications Unit)
Cover photo
CIAT/Neil Palmer
Copyright: Bioversity International 2023. Some rights reserved.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution NonCommercial 4.0 International License (CC-BY-NC)
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/

September 2023
GUIDE FOR THE ASSESSMENT OF

Cacao Quality
and Flavour
Empowering
a new generation
of cacao producers
of excellence
Fu Wan Chocolate Taiwan
Foreword
The global cacao market has witnessed remarkable growth and diversification in recent years, with
increasing demand for superior quality cacao. However, the cacao sector has long faced significant
challenges due to the absence of agreed-upon standards for assessing cacao quality and a lack of a
common language to describe cacao flavour diversity. These deficiencies hinder effective communication
between producers and buyers, particularly impacting farmers in developing countries striving to
sell superior quality cacao deserving of premium prices. To address these issues and meet evolving
consumer needs, it’s crucial to establish credible, reliable and standardised methods for assessing
cacao quality and flavour.

The Guide includes detailed protocols and procedures for evaluating cacao in various forms, such
as unroasted cacao bean coarse powder, cacao mass, and chocolate. These methodologies have
been developed over several years by a diverse group of experts, enabling objective assessments
of cacao quality and flavour. It provides a universal language for describing cacao attributes, for a
shared understanding among cacao professionals worldwide. This Guide serves as a comprehensive
resource for individuals, associations and organisations interested in internationally aligned capacity
building, with the objective of setting up cacao quality and flavour assessment facilities and sensory
evaluation panels.

The development of this Guide has been a collective endeavour spanning several years, drawing upon
the expertise of stakeholders across the cacao sector. It began in September 2015 with the formation
of an informal working group, coordinated by Cacao of Excellence to explore the establishment of
international standards for assessing cacao quality and flavour. The group conducted a comprehensive
review of existing standards in cacao, coffee, olive oil and wine. In 2016, a first proposal for a harmonised
standard for cocoa quality and flavour assessment was developed, led by Dr Darin Sukha of the Cocoa
Research Centre at the University of the West Indies in Trinidad and Tobago (CRC). In 2017 and 2018,
individual protocols were developed based on this proposal and reviewed extensively by members
of the working group and diverse stakeholders from the cacao sector. Between 2018 to 2022, a
meticulous external review and refinement process involved more than 100 people from over 30
countries, resulting in this Guide. By 30 June 2023, more than 1,500 people from 105 countries had
downloaded the protocols.

This Guide captures critical cacao bean processing adjustments and innovations developed over each
Cacao of Excellence Award edition since 2009 by Ed Seguine of Seguine Cacao Cocoa and Chocolate
Advisors and Guittard Chocolate, Chair of the Technical Committee, and its members.

6 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Producers, buyers, traders, manufacturers, researchers, and development experts from the public and
private sectors contributed their knowledge and experience to ensure the relevance and applicability
of these protocols. Their collective input has made this Guide a valuable reference manual for all
stakeholders in the cacao value chain.

These protocols are implemented in a several of countries and organisations, paving the way for global
utilisation. We envision this Guide becoming the go-to resource for quality and flavour assessments,
training programmes, and the establishment of national standards for cacao quality and flavour,
complete with laboratories and sensory evaluation panels. This guide aims to empowering producers
to better understand the quality of their cacao and connect with higher-value markets and receive
objective feedback for improving pre- and post-harvest processes.

We extend our deepest gratitude to all the individuals and organisations who have dedicated their
time and expertise to bring this Guide to fruition. We hope that its widespread adoption will elevate
the entire cacao sector, enhance the understanding of cacao's unique attributes, and ultimately ensure
that producers of exceptional cacao receive the recognition they deserve, leading to increased value
and income for sustainable livelihoods. This, in turn, will enable consumers around the world to savour
the finest and most distinctive cacao products.

Together, let us continue to cultivate excellence in cacao quality and flavour assessment.

Brigitte Laliberté
Strategic Advisor, Cacao of Excellence Programme

Dolores Alvarado
Food Technologist and Interim Head of the Cacao of Excellence R&D Laboratory

7
Disclaimer
The protocols on cacao bean physical evaluation, sample processing and sensory evaluation of cacao
mass and chocolate were developed over several years by Ed Seguine of Seguine Cacao Cocoa and
Chocolate Advisors, and Guittard Chocolate. Darin Sukha from the Cocoa Research Centre of the
University of the West Indies (CRC) and Edward Seguine co-developed the protocol for sensory
evaluation of cacao mass and chocolate. These protocols have been implemented by the Cacao of
Excellence programme since 2009.

The content of the protocol on Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as coarse powder (Section 17)
were developed by the Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute (FCCI) and reviewed by the members of
the ISCQF Working Group.

Since 2017, the elaboration of all protocols have been the results of close collaboratio with a diverse
range of stakeholders and sensory evaluation experts. First public drafts of nine protocols were
published between 2019-2021, as part of the International Standards for the Assessment of Cocoa
Quality and Flavour (ISCQF) and reviewed by the members of the Working Group on the ISCQF.

During the development of this guide, the initial public drafts received extensive feedback from numerous
reviewers representing various organisations and countries. A comprehensive public consultation
period took place between 2019-2022 to gather input and opinions. All comments received were
carefully evaluated and incorporated into the final version where relevant. Conflicting views were
addressed through discussions with experts in the field.

The Guide includes suggestions of brands and models for informational purposes only, without any
commercial intent. It is important to exercise caution and follow appropriate safety measures while
using any tools and equipment mentioned. Users are advised to consult the specific operating manuals
for each item for detailed instructions.

8 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Acknowledgements
We would like to express our gratitude to the members of the Working Group on the International
Standards for the Assessment of Cocoa Quality and Flavour (ISCQF), coordinated by the Alliance of
Bioversity International and CIAT, as well as Cacao of Excellence for their guidance and support in
developing this document. The compilation of protocols presented in this guide is the result of extensive
consultations and numerous inputs from experts, as well as broad public review.

Special acknowledgment goes to Ed Seguine, of Seguine Cacao Cocoa and Chocolate Advisors, Chair of
the Cacao of Excellence Technical Committee, and consultant to Guittard Chocolate for his significant
contributions to the cacao sector and the protocols and procedures of Cacao of Excellence since its
inception in 2009, forming the backbone of this Guide. Additionally, we extend our appreciation and
gratitude to Dr Darin Sukha from the Cocoa Research Centre of the University of the West Indies (CRC)
for conducting an initial comprehensive review of existing standards in cacao and other commodities
such as coffee, olive oil, and wine. Dr Sukha’s work resulted in the development of the first proposal
entitled ‘Elements of a harmonized international standard for cocoa quality and flavour assessment’
in 2016.

We extend our sincere appreciation to the following organisations for their financial support:

∙ The Cacao of Excellence programme of the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT and all
its partners, sponsors and contributors since its establishment in 2009.

∙ MOCCA project (Maximizing Opportunities in Coffee and Cacao in the Americas), funded by
the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and implemented by a consortium led by
TechnoServe, with cacao activities led by Corus International’s Lutheran World Relief (LWR) and
components on cacao research and quality standards led by Cacao of Excellence of the Alliance
of Bioversity International and CIAT, from April 2019 to June 2023.

∙ Pennsylvania State University (Penn State) Research and Scientific Exchange Programme to
Support the Development of Fine Flavor Cacao in Latin America and the Caribbean (LAC), funded
by USDA and implemented from July 2018 to May 2019.

∙ MOCA project (Maximizing Opportunities for Cacao Activity), funded by USDA and implemented by
Cultivating New Frontiers in Agriculture (CNFA), for their assistance in providing French translations
of a selection of first draft protocols in 2020.

∙ European Cocoa Association (ECA), the Association of Chocolate, Biscuit and Confectionery
Industries of Europe (CAOBISCO), and the Federation of Cocoa Commerce London (FCC) for their
financial support to the Cacao of Excellence Programme in 2016-2017, contributing to this process.

9
We acknowledge with gratitude the following organisations participating in the Working Group on
the ISCQF for their valuable in-kind contributions:

∙ Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT and its Cacao of Excellence programme.

∙ Asociación Mesoamericana del Cacao y Chocolates Finos (AMACACAO).

∙ Barry Callebaut.

∙ Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries (CBI).

∙ Cocoa Research Centre of the University of the West Indies (CRC).

∙ ECOM Trading.

∙ Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute (FCCI).

∙ Fine Chocolate Industry Association (FCIA).

∙ Guittard Chocolate Company.

∙ International Cocoa Organization (ICCO).

∙ International Institute of Chocolate & Cacao Tasting (IICCT).

∙ Lutheran World Relief (LWR).

∙ Puratos/Belcolade.

∙ Seguine Cacao Cocoa and Chocolate Advisors.

∙ TCHO Chocolate.

∙ Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina (UNALM).

∙ USAID-Equal Exchange-TCHO Cooperative Development Programme.

∙ Valrhona Chocolate.

∙ World Cocoa Foundation (WCF).

10 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


We would like to acknowledge the following organisations for their financial support during consultancies
and consultation meetings between 2017-2020:

∙ Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT and its Cacao of Excellence programme.

∙ Asociación Mesoamericana de Cacao y Chocolates Finos (AMACACAO).

∙ Catholic Relief Services.

∙ CGIAR Research Programme on Forest, Trees and Agroforestry.

∙ Christian Aid.

∙ Corus International’s Lutheran World Relief and its project Cacao Móvil, supported by the United
States Department of State and the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation.

∙ Event International and Salon du Chocolat.

∙ Penn State USDA-funded project.

We also acknowledge the following individuals who provided invaluable support in proofreading and
editing the English, Spanish, and French versions of the first public draft protocols: Dolores Alvarado,
Brigitte Laliberté, Olga Spellman, Silvia Araujo de Lima, from the Alliance of Bioversity International
and CIAT, and Pierre Costet of Valrhona Chocolate.

This Guide was English copy-edited by Nadia Villaseñor, Communications Specialist of the Cacao of
Excellence Programme, and Sara Fusi of RB-ELLI. The content was translated into Spanish by Karen
Amaya Vecht, a consultant to the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT.

The design and layout were conducted by Daniel Gutiérrez, Senior Graphic Designer of the Communication
team of the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT. The graphic design elements were translated
in Spanish by Lorena García, consultant to the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT.

Finally, we extend our thanks to the many contributors who participated in the consultation process
and provided valuable inputs to the protocols (for a full list of contributors, see the section entitled
‘Contributors’).

11
About the Alliance of
Bioversity International
and CIAT
The Alliance of Bioversity International and the International Center for Tropical Agriculture (CIAT)
delivers research-based solutions that address the global crises of malnutrition, climate change,
biodiversity loss, and environmental degradation. The Alliance focuses on the nexus of agriculture,
nutrition, and environment. We work with local, national, and multinational partners across Africa,
Asia, and Latin America and the Caribbean, and with the public and private sectors and civil society.
With novel partnerships, the Alliance generates evidence and mainstreams innovations to transform
food systems and landscapes so that they sustain the planet, drive prosperity, and nourish people in
a climate crisis. The Alliance is part of CGIAR, a global research partnership for a food-secure future
dedicated to transforming food, land, and water systems in a climate crisis.

alliancebioversityciat.org cgiar.org

About Cacao of Excellence


Cacao of Excellence, led by the CGIAR’s Alliance of Bioversity International and the International
Center for Tropical Agriculture (CIAT), is a unique global platform that discovers, convenes, promotes,
and rewards cacao producers of excellence from all origins, focusing on superior cacao quality and
flavour diversity. Since 2009, the platform has held the prestigious global Cacao of Excellence Awards,
celebrating the work of cacao producers and showcasing exceptional flavours worldwide. Cacao of
Excellence’s vision is to drive the expansion of superior quality cacao, ensuring more producers thrive
and benefiting resilient agricultural systems. By recognising, preserving, and valuing cacao quality and
flavour diversity across the value chain, Cacao of Excellence improves smallholder farmers' livelihoods
and drives sustainability in the cacao supply chain, fostering thriving, resilient, and healthy communities,
from origins to consumers. Its five strategic pillars are: (1) Global Co-elevating Cocoa Origins through the
Awards, (2) Data-driven Innovations Developed and Adopted, (3) Safeguard of Cocoa Genetic Diversity,
(4) Develop Capacity to Adopt Innovations that Generate Value and (5) A Community for Excellence.

cacaoofexcellence.org

12 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


About MOCCA
MOCCA (Maximizing Opportunities in Coffee and Cacao in the Americas) is a consortium led by
Technoserve, Lutheran World Relief and World Coffee Research, with implementing partners like
the Alliance Bioveristy-CIAT facilitating a series of benefits for coffee and cacao producers including:
the opportunity to integrate higher value commercial models, technical assistance, access to higher
quality planting material, access to research results, and the opportunity to participate in catalytic
financing models. MOCCA is primarily funded by the US Department of Agriculture through their Food
for Progress Program, which seeks to expand agricultural productivity and trade. Additional MOCCA
co-funders include: The J.M. Smucker Company, JDE, Peets, Keurig-Dr. Pepper, Nespresso, Olam, and
the Kellogg’s Company.

mocca.org

About USDA
The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) is the federal executive department responsible
for developing and executing federal laws related to farming, forestry, rural economic development,
and food. It aims to meet the needs of commercial farming and livestock food production, promotes
agricultural trade and production, works to assure food safety, protects natural resources, fosters
rural communities and works to end hunger in the United States and internationally.

usda.gov

13
Acronyms

Acronym Meaning

AFCC Association Française du Commerce des Cacaos

AMACACAO Asociación Mesoamericana del Cacao y Chocolates Finos

AMAF ASEAN Ministers on Agriculture and Forestry

APC Aerobic Plate Count

ASEAN Stan Association of Southeast Asian Nations Standards

ASTM ASTM International (formerly American Society for Testing and Materials)

C-PET Crystalline Polyethylene Terephthalate

CAOBISCO Association of Chocolate, Biscuit and Confectionery Industries of Europe

CATIE Centro Agronómico Tropical de Investigación y Enseñanza

CBI Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries

CCP Critical Control Point

CDP Cooperative Development Program (USAID – Equal Exchange – TCHO Cooperative


Development Programme)

CIAT International Center for Tropical Agriculture

CMAA Cocoa Merchants' Association of America

CNFA Cultivating New Frontiers in Agriculture

CoEx Cacao of Excellence Programme

CRC Cocoa Research Centre of the University of the West Indies

CRIG Cocoa Research Institute of Ghana

ECA European Cocoa Association

FAO Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations

FCC Federation of Cocoa Commerce

FCCI Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute

FCIA Fine Chocolate Industry Association

14 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Acronym Meaning

FDA Food and Drug Administration

HACCP Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points

ICCO International Cocoa Organization

IICCT International Institute of Chocolate and Cacao Tasting

ISCQF International Standards for the Assessment of Cocoa Quality and Flavour

ISO International Organization for Standardization

LAC Latin America and the Caribbean

LWR Lutheran World Relief

MOCA Maximizing Opportunities for Cocoa Activity

MOCCA Maximising Opportunities in Coffee and Cacao in the Americas

RH Relative Humidity

SD Standard Deviation

SPC Standard Plate Count

TPC Total Plate Count

UNALM Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina

UNCTAD United Nations Conference on Trade and Development

USAID United States Agency for International Development

USDA United States Department of Agriculture

ZHAW Zürich Hochschule für Angewandte Wissenschaften (Zürich University for Applied
Sciences)

WCF World Cocoa Foundation

WHO World Health Organization

WTO World Trade Organization

15
Table of Contents
6 Foreword
8 Disclaimer
9 Acknowledgements
12 About the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT
12 About Cacao of Excellence
13 About MOCCA
13 About USDA
14 Acronyms
18 General introduction

23 Part A: General considerations


23 Chapter 1. Introduction
24 Chapter 2. Key parameters and specifications
25 Chapter 3. Food safety considerations
31 Chapter 4. Storage and ageing of cacao products
33 Chapter 5. Sampling bagged and bulk cacao beans

45 Part B: Physical evaluation


45 Chapter 6. Introduction
46 Chapter 7. Determination of moisture content
51 Chapter 8. Physical evaluation of whole cacao beans
56 Chapter 9. Physical evaluation of cut cacao beans

63 Part C: Processing cacao bean samples


63 Chapter 10. Introduction
64 Chapter 11. Roasting cacao beans
71 Chapter 12. Breaking and winnowing cacao beans
77 Chapter 13. Processing cacao nibs into mass
83 Chapter 14. Processing cacao mass into dark chocolate

93 Part D: Sensory evaluation


93 Chapter 15. Introduction
94 Chapter 16. General guidelines for sensory evaluation
103 Chapter 17. Sensory evaluation of unroasted cacao beans as coarse powder
107 Chapter 18. Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as cacao mass
115 Chapter 19. Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as dark chocolate
118 Chapter 20. Tools for sensory evaluation

16 |
Kathya Archila Bioversity
Guide for the International
Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour
A

136 Annexes
136 Annex 1. Steps for a randomised selection of specific bags in a lot
137 Annex 2. Quartering process diagrams
138 Annex 3. Example of calculation of moisture content using the oven
method
140 Annex 4. Calculation of the standard deviation of the bean count
142 Annex 5. Examples of defective whole beans
143 Annex 6. Cut bean reference pictures
146 Annex 7. Examples of colour guides for picture taking
147 Annex 8. Cacao bean standards by country and organisation
152 Annex 9. Adjustments in roasting time and temperature by cacao
bean size and moisture content
155 Annex 10. Use of micrometer to measure cacao mass particle size
159 Annex 11. Examples of calculation of ingredients for chocolate processing
160 Annex 12. Heating and cooling chocolate manually during tempering
process
161 Annex 13. Tempering troubleshooting
162 Annex 14. All equipment, tools and materials

190 List of tables


193 List of figures
198 Contributors
204 References

Part A | General considerations 17


General introduction

Cacao quality and flavour are the result of various factors,


including cacao variety, cultivation practices, environmental
conditions, and processing techniques. These interactions
give rise to the diverse tastes and aromas that characterise
some of the world's best chocolates.

18 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Cacao of Excellence Map of Origins © Bioversity International MMXXIII

Surprisingly, until now, there has been an absence of commonly agreed protocols for assessing cacao
quality and flavour. This discrepancy has hindered effective communication between buyers and
producers, preventing farmers from maximising on the opportunities presented by superior quality
cacao.

The purpose of this Guide is to change this situation. It is designed for individuals and organisations
who aspire to establish comprehensive and standardised facilities and sensory evaluation panels
for the assessment of cacao quality and flavour, based on international protocols. This Guide is the
culmination of extensive consultations with a broad range of public and private sector stakeholders
across the cacao value chain, from farmers, buyers, traders and manufacturers to academic researchers.

However, this publication goes beyond its role as an instructional manual. It is an educational resource
that empowers cacao-producing origins to strengthen their position in the cacao trade, elevate the
quality of their cacao production, and improve livelihoods and incomes. By enhancing the understanding
of the unique flavours of diverse cacao varieties, this Guide fosters a deeper appreciation for and
preservation of traditional cacao types.

We hope this Guide becomes the reference for all stakeholders within the cacao sector to elevate
cacao quality and contribute to a more vibrant and equitable cacao community.

19
Led by Cacao of Excellence and the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT, this initiative has
been conducted in collaboration with members of the ISCQF Working Group. The objective of this
group was to review current practices and explore the development of internationally agreed and
harmonised standards for assessing cocoa quality and flavour standards.

The objectives of this Guide are as follows:

∙ To facilitate communication and establish connections between cacao producers and supply
chain operators to enhance market opportunities.

∙ To promote the use of a common and standardised language to facilitate effective communication
and collaboration among laboratories, institutions, companies, and platforms involved in the
cacao value chain.

∙ To enhance the capacity of producing origins to identify, pursue, value, and preserve cacao quality
and diversity.

∙ To propose a potential international standard for assessing cacao quality and flavour and serve
as a reference for international and national standards as well as training materials.

∙ To provide guidance and an interpretation of existing international standards, terms, and definitions
published by relevant organisations such as the International Organization for Standardization
(ISO), the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), and the World Health
Organization (WHO).

It should be noted that this Guide is intended as a voluntary standard and not a mandatory requirement.
Furthermore, the protocols can be applied to all cacao types.

The key elements of this Guide consist of protocols for various stages of cacao processing for quality
and flavour assessment, including sampling, physical evaluation, sample preparation, and sensory
evaluation, illustrated in Figure 1.

Elkin Mejía Costa Rica

20 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Physical Sample Sensory
Sampling evaluation preparation evaluation

Sampling of bagged Moisture Roasting General guidelines for


& bulk cacao beans content cacao beans sensory evaluation

Whole bean Breaking & winnowing Sensory evaluation of


physical evaluation roasted cacao beans unroasted cacao bean
Aroma
Appearance
Cleaning loss Processing cacao nibs Sensory evaluation of
Bean size into cacao mass cacao beans processed
into cacao mass

Cut bean Processing cacao mass Sensory evaluation of


physical evaluation into dark chocolate cacao beans processed
into chocolate
Aroma
Appearance
Defects
Colour
Fissuring

Crosscutting Storage and ageing of cacao products

Food safety considerations

Figure 1. Elements of quality and flavour assessment included in this Guide.

21
22 |Fu Wan Chocolate
Guide Taiwan
for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour
A

PART A | GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS


Chapter 1. Introduction

Key considerations for the proper handling, processing, use and storage of cacao samples and
products are essential preliminary steps for ensuring reliable quality and flavour assessments. These
steps are detailed and complemented with a thorough description of food safety considerations to
ensure that samples are free from contaminants, and that assessors can recognise when samples
have been affected by pests or diseases.

This section summarises the key parameters and specifications for the all protocols, from sampling,
physical evaluation, processing into cacao mass and chocolate and sensory evaluation.

Guidance is provided on the storage and ageing process of cacao beans, cacao mass (also known as
mass), and chocolate, which is crucial for stabilising their flavour characteristics.

This section includes a comprehensive protocol for sampling bagged and bulk cacao beans
to obtain a representative sample for further analysis and evaluation of a cacao bean lot.

Part A | General considerations 23


Ch 2. Key parameters and specifications
Establishing key parameters and specifications is essential to minimise variations and to ensure
consistency among different laboratories and technicians who follow various protocols. The key
parameters and specifications of the protocols in this Guide are listed in Table 1 below.

Table 1. Key parameters and specifications for all protocols.

Parameter Specification
Sampling
Percentage of bags of cacao beans to sample 30%
Minimum amount of cacao beans to sample per tonne 300g
Minimum size of cacao bean reference sample 2,000g

Determination of moisture content


Minimum size of cacao bean test sample 500g

Physical evaluation of whole cacao beans


Minimum size of cacao bean sample for sieving and 500g
calculating cleaning loss
Minimum size of cacao bean test sample for bean count 500g

Physical evaluation of cut cacao beans


Minimum size of cacao bean test sample for the cut test 300 cacao beans

Roasting cacao beans


Minimum size of cacao bean test sample 600g
Type of oven Laboratory forced–air convection oven
Basic roast type: temperature and time Light: 112°C (234°F) x 25min
Medium: 120°C (248°F) x 25min
Full: 130°C (266°F) x 25min
Adjustments to roasting temperature and time Based on bean size and moisture content

Breaking and winnowing cacao beans


Minimum size of cacao bean test sample – output of roasting 600g
Target for the shell-to-nib ratio – visually 0%

Refining cacao nibs into cacao mass


Minimum size of cacao bean test sample – output of roasting 600g
Target for the final particle size of cacao mass 14–20µm
Maximum temperature for cacao mass processing 55°C (131°F)

Processing cacao mass into dark chocolate


Target for the final particle size of the chocolate ≤18µm
Maximum temperature for the chocolate processing 55°C (131°F)
% of cacao mass 63
% of cacao butter 7
% of sugar 30
Total % cacao 70

24 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Parameter Specification A
Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as mass
Quantity of cacao mass for sensory evaluation per tasting 1–2g
Volume of the container for the cacao mass sample 28ml with lid
Temperature of the cacao mass sample Melted at 48–50°C (118–122°F)
Maximum time that the sample should be at 5 minutes
48–50°C (118–122°F) heated only once, not reheated

Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as dark chocolate


Quantity of dark chocolate for evaluation per tasting 2–3g
Temperature of the dark chocolate sample at the time Room temperature
of sensory evaluation

Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as mass


and as dark chocolate
Palate cleanser between sensory evaluation of a sample Non-yeast, unsalted and flavourless water crackers
and warm water at 40–50°C (104–122°F)
Minimun number of assessors in a sensory evaluation panel for 6
conventional sensory profiles (data-based average)
Minimun number of assessors in a sensory evaluation panel for 4
consensus sensory profiles (agreed final values)
Maximum number of cacao mass samples tasted during 6
an evaluation session
Minimum number of known reference cacao mass samples 2
tasted prior to each evaluation session for calibration
Flavour attributes (core and complimentary) to be evaluated Glossary of terms
Scale for intensity of flavour attributes and global quality 0–10

Ch 3. Food safety considerations


Ensuring food safety practices such as good hygiene and manufacturing practices is critical in the
implementation of a Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP) system. Hygienic restrictions,
pest management and foreign object prevention can avoid introduction of contaminants, pests or
diseases into cacao products during the quality and flavour assessment process.

N'Koh Ambroise Côte d'Ivoire

Part A | General considerations 25


The general components of good hygiene and manufacturing practices include the following:

∙ Personnel.

∙ Raw materials, food ingredients, and other products.

∙ Facilities.

∙ Equipment, tools and apparatus.

∙ Facility maintenance, equipment service and calibration; and

∙ Cleaning and sanitising.

The management team of any cacao quality and flavour assessment facility must document in written
form, communicate, implement and evaluate good hygiene and manufacturing practices within the
organisation on a regular basis, in order to ensure that food safety objectives are fulfilled.

Detailed guidelines for good hygiene and manufacturing practices during the stages of sampling,
physical evaluation, sample preparation and sensory evaluation of cacao beans are presented in
Table 2. These guidelines are based on recommendations developed by the Food and Agriculture
Organization (FAO) and the World Health Organization (WHO) (FAO, WHO 2020).

Table 2. Guidelines for Good Hygienic and Manufacturing Practices for cacao quality and flavour (Bioversity International\Dolores
Alvarado, 2022 based on FAO and WHO, 2020).

Components Guidelines

Personnel Use of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) such as laboratory coats (ideally with inside pockets),
hair and beard coverage, footwear and goggles, must be observed whenever applicable.
Cuts and wounds, especially for personnel assigned in the processing and analysis area, must
be covered by suitable water-proof dressings.
Wearing of jewelery, nail varnish, false nails and other loose personal items must be restricted
within the processing and analysis areas.
Everyone entering the premises (e.g. employees and visitors) must strictly adhere to basic
personal hygiene norms, including but not limited to: thorough handwashing and drying,
prevention of hand-to-face contact, avoidance of eating outside the designated area and
reporting cases of sickness.

Raw materials, Sample providers of cacao beans for analysis must be reminded of and must comply with the
food ingredients food safety guidelines prescribed, e.g. samples, impurities, pesticide treatments, etc.
and other Unroasted cacao beans must be kept segregated from cacao products derived after roasting,
products i.e. nibs, cacao mass and chocolates.
Ingredients used for the processing of cacao products (e.g. sugar, lecithin, cacao butter) must
be sorted and kept separate from materials and substances unfit for human consumption (e.g.
cleaning chemicals).

Facilities Handling of raw or unprocessed materials (i.e. unroasted cacao beans) and processed products
(i.e. roasted beans, nibs, cacao mass, chocolates) must be carried out in separate areas.
Use of glass items in the processing area must be minimised; glass items such as light bulbs or
lamps in working areas must be protected.
Use of wood, due to the potential risk of splintering, must be limited.

26 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Components Guidelines
A
The facility, particularly the processing area, must be pest-proof. This can be done by screening
windows, closing gaps below doors, and installing effective pest control systems such as
insect and rodent traps, and baits.
Designated areas and/or containers for stray items (e.g. loose nuts and bolts), collected foreign
materials (i.e. protocol for cleaning loss) and other waste (including disposable Personal
Protective Equipment – PPE) must be established.
Proper ventilation is crucial, particularly in processing and storage areas, to minimise airborne
contamination of cacao products during processing.
Adequate natural or artificial lighting must be installed following prescribed standards, i.e.
luminosity requirements for external analysis and cacao bean cut tests.
Water used for processing and cleaning must be of potable quality, i.e. meeting or exceeding
minimum microbiological safety standards.
Appropriate control systems must be in place for temperature, humidity, and other environmental
factors whenever possible.
Personal hygiene facilities, such as a handwashing station, must be available, designed and
constructed to facilitate the maintenance of personal hygiene.

Equipment, Equipment must be installed in a manner that allows for adequate maintenance, cleaning
tools, and and monitoring.
apparatus Tools such as knives, spatulas and scoops must have solidly built and clearly designated
storage locations.
Sampling scoops, spears and related tools must be kept clean, free of build-up and in good
condition.
Reusable storage containers (e.g. made of plastic) must be inspected for signs of physical
damage prior to use.
Processing-related equipment such as mills, grinders and melangers must be covered during
use whenever possible.
Residues, leaks and spills that may arise from sample preparation within the surrounding area
must be immediately cleaned and disposed of properly.

Facility Salmonella testing must be regularly performed on the facility, following a risk-based approach,
maintenance, i.e. areas within the facility have different levels of risk for Salmonella.
equipment Routine preventative maintenance must be applied on the premises, such as on roofing and
service and storage bins, in order to minimise the presence of foreign objects, such as pieces of metal,
calibration concrete or glass.
Storage facilities (e.g. bins and compartments) must be cleaned and disinfected on a regular
basis, especially when they are used to store raw materials or waste products that are highly
contaminated with insects, mould and Salmonella.
Exposed food contact surfaces must be routinely examined and, if possible, be protected
from potential contamination.
Screws, nuts, bolts and other potentially loose items must be periodically inspected and
fixed in appropriate equipment and facilities.
Chemicals used for maintaining processing equipment and tools (e.g. oils and greases) must be
of food-grade quality, as they may come into contact with cacao products during processing.
Preventive maintenance, such as lubrication with food-grade agents, must be performed on
equipment and tools that pose high risks for foreign objects due to breakage.

Part A | General considerations 27


Components Guidelines

A sampling plan to monitor the microbiological status of food contact surfaces and other
equipment for processing cacao products must be established.
A general and preventive maintenance programme for equipment impacting product safety and
quality must be established, which considers: (1) a priority system to address product safety
and quality issues, (2) a process system for adding new or upgrading existing equipment, and
(3) verification documents that support the completion of maintenance work.

Cleaning and Cleaning and sanitising schedules must be established and supported by documented
sanitising records of completion.
Sponges, reusable cloth towels and wooden-handled tools must not be used for cleaning.
Cleaning materials must be fit for purpose and designed to minimise risks for physical hazards,
e.g. use of cleaning brushes with resin-bonded bristles instead of wire brushes or scouring
pads that pose risks of physical hazards.
Similar cleaning tools (e.g. brushes) must be colour-coded to distinguish between specific
uses, i.e. for food contact surfaces versus general cleaning purposes.
Cleaning chemicals must be prepared according to prescribed instructions and must be
carefully handled and disposed of.
Containers for waste, by-products and other non-food or toxic substances must bear proper
identification and be suitably constructed, i.e. made of impervious material.

The identification of food safety risks are carried out following the HACCP approach, described in
Table 3 below.

Table 3. Basic principles of the HACCP approach (US FDA, 2017; Velmourougane et al., 2014).

Principles Steps
1 Conduct a ∙ Identify hazards.
hazard analysis ∙ Assess the risks associated with each hazard at each step in the system.
∙ Describe possible control measures.

2 Determine the critical ∙ Identify the step/s in the process at which control measures can be applied that
control point/s (CCPs) will prevent or eliminate a food safety hazard or reduce it to an acceptable level.

3 Establish ∙ Establish the critical limit/s at each control measure associated with a CCP.
critical limit/s ∙ Use critical limits to separate acceptable from unacceptable control parameters.

4 Establish a ∙ Plan monitoring procedures that describe how, when, and how often to measure the
monitoring system critical limits at each CCP, and determine who is responsible for measuring them.
∙ Monitoring procedures must be designed to determine when deviations from the
critical limit occur so that appropriate corrective actions can be initiated.

5 Establish ∙ Identify the steps that must be taken to prevent potentially hazardous items (e.g.
corrective action/s contaminants) from entering the process.
∙ Determine the steps necessary to correct any deviation from the established
critical limit/s when monitoring a CCP.

6 Establish verification ∙ Audit the HACCP plan to review deviations.


procedure/s ∙ Conduct random sampling and checking to validate the whole plan.

7 Establish documentation ∙ Establish documentation concerning all procedures and records appropriate to
these principles and their application.

28 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


A
Hazards are classified into three categories: biological, chemical, and physical. When conducting a
cacao quality and flavour assessment, it is crucial to consider the hazards commonly associated with
cacao products. Some important hazards to be mindful of include:

∙ Biological: insects, rodents, Salmonella.

∙ Chemical: heavy metals (arsenic, cadmium, lead, mercury), pesticide residues, mycotoxins (aflatoxin
and ochratoxin A), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons and mineral oil residues, such as mineral
oil saturated hydrocarbons and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons.

∙ Physical: plastic pieces, metal shavings, wood splinters, glass pieces, human hair, small stones,
dust, and fibres.

Similar to any raw agricultural product, cacao beans may contain pathogens that pose a food safety
hazard. In order to avoid contamination of processed materials (e.g. cacao mass or chocolate for
sensory evaluation), unroasted beans must be handled (i.e. during sampling) and kept in a room
separate from roasted beans, nibs, cacao mass and chocolate. If they must be handled in the same
space, use a batch system to work in separate time frames. Clean and disinfect all counter spaces,
contact surfaces and tools between batches.

For cleaning and sanitising all surfaces, tools and equipment, use food-grade and odourless cleaning
agent and disinfectants. Two options for basic disinfectants are:

∙ 70% isopropyl alcohol spray.

∙ 1% sodium hypochlorite solution that can be prepared by mixing nine parts of potable water and
one part 10% sodium hypochlorite concentrate. Once prepared, the disinfectant or solution has
a shelf life of six months.

For all protocols where raw beans are being handled, i.e. Chapter 7 ‘Determination of moisture content’,
Chapter 8 ‘Physical evaluation of whole cacao beans’ and Chapter 9 ‘Physical evaluation of cut cacao
beans’, it is important to consider the following recommendations:

∙ Bags for holding samples must consist of food-safe material, including food-safe marking and
labeling such as ink or paint. Bags should be new, clean, sufficiently strong and properly sewn.

∙ The surface where samples are handled must be clean before the process is carried out.

∙ Samples must be placed in separate and clean containers (e.g. plastic bags) that are sealed and
properly labelled.

∙ Face masks or protective goggles must be worn particularly for moving bean lots where a stream
of dust is consistently produced.

∙ Used personal protective equipment must be removed such as face masks and safety goggles
and disposed of or thoroughly cleaned.

N'Koh Ambrois Côte d'Ivoire

Part A | General considerations 29


∙ Thoroughly wash and/or sanitise hands employing the following techniques, illustrated in
Figure 2 below.

HOW TO HANDRUB? HOW TO HANDWASH?


with alcohol-based formulation with soap and water

1a 1b 0 1

Apply a palmful of the product in a cupped hand, Wet hands with water; Apply enough soap to
covering all surfaces; cover all hand surfaces;

2 3 4

Rub hands palm to palm; Right palm over left dorsum with Palm to palm with
interlaced fingers and vice versa; fingers interlaced;

5 6 7

Backs of fingers to opposing Rotational rubbing of left thumb Rotational rubbing, backwards and
palms with fingers interlocked; clasped in right palm and vice versa; forwards with clasped fingers of right
hand in left palm and vice versa;

8 9 10

Rinse hands with water; Dry hands thoroughly Use towel


with a single use towel; to turn off faucet;

Duration of
20-30 sec the entire procedure 40-60 sec

8 11

Once dry, your hands are safe. Your hands are now safe.

Figure 2. Proper hand washing and sanitising techniques (WHO, 2006).

30 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 4. Storage and ageing of cacao products
A
Proper storage of cacao products is crucial to maintain optimal quality and flavour from the initial
sampling stage to the assessment process and subsequent storage. Optimal storage conditions
including room-layout characteristics and environmental conditions are detailed below.

4.1 Storage room


Room layout

∙ Floors and walls must be made of concrete and/or bricks.

∙ Room doors and windows must provide adequate light and ventilation, while effectively preventing
the entry of pests such as birds and rodents.

∙ Storage areas should be equipped with provisions to keep different bean lots (such as roasted
and unroasted nibs) separated by a distance of at least 60cm. This separation is necessary to
prevent mixing and cross-contamination between the different lots.

∙ Storage areas, cabinets and containers for cacao products must be clean and free of foreign
matter, such as dirt, dead insects, pupal cases and webbing.

∙ Cacao products must be stored on gratings, deckings or vessels that are ≥7cm off the ground
and ≥60cm away from ceilings and walls, for sufficient air circulation and distance from any
contaminating matter, such as insects and paint.

Environmental conditions
∙ Cacao products should not be stored with odour-releasing items, such as cleaning agents, spices,
herbs and flavouring.

∙ Cacao products should be kept away from direct sunlight or any heat source to prevent temperature
differentials, water migration or fat degradation.

∙ Fluctuations in temperature and relative humidity (RH) should be avoided.

∙ The RH should be kept at less than 70% to prevent or reduce mould growth.

∙ The optimal duration and temperatures for specific cacao products are listed in Table 4.

Table 4. Optimal temperature and relative humidity for storing cacao products to maintain quality and flavour.

Product Duration Temperature RH


Cacao beans <3 months 23–33°C (73–91°F)
>3 months 20–24°C (68–75°F)

Cacao nibs for processing No more than 7 days 10–24°C (50–75.2°F)


into cacao mass
65–75%
Cacao mass <3 months ≤22°C (71°F) – ambient
>3 months <1 year 5–8°C (41–46°F) – fridge
>1 year -18 to -5°C (0–23°F) – freezer

Chocolate <2 years 10–18°C (50–64°F)

Part A | General considerations 31


4.2 Packaging and labelling
Adequate packing of stored cacao products (beans, nibs, cacao mass, chocolate) must prevent
rewetting, degradation and cross-contamination. The packing materials must possess the following
characteristics:

∙ Sufficiently strong, properly sewn or tightly sealed to withstand transport and storage.

∙ Suitable for food contact use and discouragement of pest infestation.

∙ Good oxygen and moisture barrier properties.

∙ Free of noxious substances such as mineral oils.

∙ Snap- or vacuum-sealable plastics bags made from any of the following:

» Linear low density polyethylene/vinyl alcohol.

» Oriented polypropylene/polypropylene.

» Oriented nylon/polyethylene.

Stored cacao products must be clearly labeled with the following information, where applicable:

∙ Name of the product (i.e. beans, nibs, cacao mass, chocolate).

∙ Internal code reference (i.e. sample code).

∙ Properly dentified cacao bean lots, either at farm-level or out-of-farm warehouse.

∙ Date of receipt of the product (dd/mm/yyyy).

∙ Location of storage (room, shelf, box).

NOTE: In order to prevent condensation, bring any cold cacao mass samples to room temperature while inside
their packing or jars. If the cacao mass samples are large and deep frozen, they should be left to thaw and reach
room temperature (20–22°C or 68–72°F) overnight. If the room temperature is higher, the thawing should be
done in two steps: (1) Transfer from freezer to fridge and (2) cool to room temperature overnight. This approach
will minimise the chance for condensation.

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

32 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 5. Sampling bagged and bulk cacao beans
A
5.1 Objective
This protocol outlines the procedure for sampling various lots of cacao beans with the aim of obtaining
a representative sample for further analysis and evaluation. The objective is to ensure that the sample
accurately represents the entire cacao bean lot being assessed.

5.2 Key specifications


Table 5. Key specifications for sampling.

Parameter Specification
Percentage of bags to sample 30% (ISO, 2292:2017)
Minimum amount of cacao beans to sample per tonne 300g
Minimum size of the reference sample of cacao beans 2,000g

5.3 Equipment, tools and materials


∙ Sampling spear (Annexes, Figure 43).

∙ Handheld sampling scoops (Annexes, Figure 44).

∙ Plastic or metal storage containers (Annexes, Figure 46).

∙ Quartering tools (Annexes, Figure 47).

∙ Weighing scales with a minimum capacity of 2kg and a precision of 0.5g.

∙ Bags used to hold reference samples should have the following characteristics:

» Food-grade non-toxic marking and labeling inks or paints.

» New or recycled, clean, sufficiently strong and properly sewn.

5.4 Procedure
5.4.1 General
Bean lots can be either in bags or in bulk. Different samples are taken during the process to ensure
maximum representation of the lot and are defined as follows:

∙ Primary samples are small quantities of beans taken at a single position from a randomly
selected bag.

∙ Incremental samples are small quantities of beans not exceeding 1kg taken from a bulk lot.

∙ Composite samples are all primary or all incremental samples combined and thoroughly mixed
to homogenise.

∙ Reference samples are the targeted representative samples of 2kg obtained by successively
quartering the composite sample for physical and sensory evaluation.

∙ Test samples are taken from the reference sample, amount to at least 500g, and are withdrawn
using a flat-bottomed shovel drawn across the middle of the reference sample to carry out a
specific test.

Part A | General considerations 33


The sampling process should be conducted and completed within the same day, without interruption,
to ensure representation of the sample lot at a specific point in time.

In order to obtain accurate representative samples, the sampling procedure must consider proportional
allocation with respect to the size of the original lot and minimise bias in obtaining the samples. These
are addressed in this protocol by recommending minimum sample sizes according to lot size and by
applying randomisation aided by tools (e.g. sampling spear, quartering tool).

Sampling very large or very small bean lots will present challenges and will require adapting the
sample size.

The sampling procedure can be modified to suit the needs of the user, particularly for the purpose of
analysing the bean lot. Although the sizes of lots may vary, the approach to sampling as described in
this protocol remains the same.

In scenarios where the user suspects a high degree of variability within the lot, it may be best to draw
an initially larger sample than the recommended minimum. Once this first stage has been completed,
additional sample reduction steps are used (e.g. quartering) to obtain the final representative sample.

A reference sample of 2kg is targeted and will yield sufficient test samples to carry out all of the
protocols of this guide as shown in Figure 6. However, a larger reference sample may be required
if more cacao mass or chocolate is needed for sensory evaluation. If backup samples are required,
they should be the same size as the reference sample. The general process for sampling and types
of samples are illustrated in Figure 3 below.

Lot of Lot of
cacao beans cacao beans
in bags in bulk

PRIMARY SAMPLES MAX SIZE INCREMENTAL SAMPLES


1 2 3 1KG 1 2 3
EACH

COMPOSITE SAMPLE COMPOSITE SAMPLE


SUM OF
ABOVE
SIZE REDUCTION SIZE REDUCTION
THROUGH QUARTERING THROUGH QUARTERING

REFERENCE SAMPLE SIZE REFERENCE SAMPLE


2KG

Figure 3. Schematic representation of the sampling process and types of samples (based on: ISO, 2292:2017 and ISO, 2451:2017).

34 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


A
5.4.2 Sampling beans from bags
The procedure for sampling beans from bags is outlined below:

1. Determine the minimum number of reference samples, each weighing a minimum of 2kg, based
on the size of the lot and the number of shipping marks. This can be done by referring to the
decision tree provided in Figure 4 below.

Start

Number of 1 ≤250t 1 reference sample


Lot size?
shipping marks? per lot*

>1 >250t End

1 reference sample
per 250t

Size of ≤25t 1 reference sample


shipping marks? per lot*
End

>25t End

1 reference sample
per shipping mark
*Upon agreement of interested parties.

End

Figure 4. Decision-tree to determine the minimum number of reference samples (t=tonne).

NOTE: A shipping mark is the identification of an owner of a bag of cacao beans at some point in the supply chain
up to the port of loading (i.e. a producer or trader). Shipping marks are usually stencilled on bags. A sender may
aggregate cacao from different sources with different shipping marks into a lot.

2. When extracting the primary samples, sample a minimum of 30% of the bags in the lot. Draw
enough cacao beans to get a minimum of 300g of bean material per tonne in the composite
sample.

NOTE: These two specifications are minimums and both must be fulfilled. In bigger lots, a bigger composite
sample may be needed in order to get 300g of bean material per tonne. In smaller lots, sampling the requirement
of 300g of bean material per tonne may be exceeded in order to get a 2kg reference sample. Both situations are
acceptable as they are higher than the minimum specifications.

Choose bags from all around the area occupied by the lot and avoid sampling only adjacent bags.
Randomly selecting the specific bags to sample is the preferred approach (refer to Annex 1). However,
in certain situations, it may be more practical to use the guidelines provided in Table 6 below. This
table can assist in selecting the bags to sample and estimating the amount of beans to be taken from
each bag to meet the specified requirements. Variations may occur due to the weight of the bags and
the average weight of individual beans.

Part A | General considerations 35


Table 6. Guide to sampling bagged cacao beans by lot size (assumption: bag weight of 65kg).

Bag Lot Number Recommended Number Recommended Beans


weight size of bags amount of sampled size of to take from
(t) in the lot of bags bags composite each bag (g)
to sample sample (kg)

<1 Variable 50% – each 2nd bag Variable 2 250


1 17 33% – each 3 bag
rd
6 4 700
10 167 33% – each 3 bag
rd
55 4 75
60kg 12 201 33% – each 3rd bag 66 4 60
20 334 33% – each 3rd bag 110 8 75
24 401 33% – each 3 bag
rd
132 8 60

<1 Variable 50% – each 3rd bag Variable 2 150


1 34 33% – each 3rd bag 11 4 350
10 334 33% – each 3 bag
rd
110 4 50
30kg
12 401 33% – each 3 bag
rd
132 4 30
20 667 33% – each 3 bag
rd
220 8 50
24 801 33% – each 3 bag
rd
264 8 30

3. Clean and dry the tools and equipment to be used during the sampling process.

4. Choose sampling points within each bag at different positions to ensure an equal distribution
of samples are collected from the top, centre and bottom of the bags. If only one position is
sampled per bag, vary the sampling point from bag to bag, depending on the points that are
accessible if, for example, bags are packed on a pallet. Use Figure 5 below as a guide.

TOP: Insert spear at the BOTTOM: Insert spear CENTRE: Insert spear
centre top portion of the at the centre bottom at the centre middle
bag (sewn and sealed portion of the bag at portion of the bag at
end) at least 25cm deep. least 25cm deep. least 25cm deep.

Figure 5. Sample collection using a spear from an undamaged bag.

36 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


A
5. Make a hole in the bag using the sampling spear.

6. Extract the primary sample through the hole created using the sampling spear.

7. Close the hole created in the bag to minimise further damage, e.g. by using packaging tape. In
case of jute sacks, this can easily be done by pushing the jute fibres around the sampling point
toward the centre of the hole.

NOTE: If the bags are meant to protect the beans from moisture and should not be punctured, take the samples
by opening each sampled bag and retrieve the beans from different positions. Use a special sampling spear
as shown in ‘Annexes’, Figure 43d. If not available, it is necessary to pour out the beans on a clean surface and
take the beans from the pile.

8. Collect all primary samples into a clean storage vessel or bag.

9. Empty the primary samples on a clean flat surface in an area free of contamination.

10. Immediately mix the collected primary samples carefully and thoroughly with the sampling
spoons to get the composite sample.

11. Divide the composite sample by quartering to obtain the reference sample (see Annexes,
Figure 28 and Figure 29 for visuals):

∙ Clean the surface where the quartering will take place.

∙ Tip the composite sample onto the surface.

∙ Gather the beans into a cone shape.

∙ Flatten the cone forming a circular shape or ellipse.

∙ Divide the circular shape into halves.

∙ Divide each half into quarters.

∙ Discard beans from the first and last quarters (in a diagonal position).

∙ Mix quarters two and three.

∙ Repeat the procedure until the targeted amount of beans has been obtained.

NOTE: Quartering can also be carried out using special devices, such as a quartering tool (Annexes, Figure 47).
Using such devices carries a risk that should not be underestimated, as it can potentially result in the creation
of more broken beans, fragments, residue, and other undesirable elements. Samples of cacao should be drawn
and quartered carefully and gently. The beans should not be subjected to rough handling.

12. Pack the reference sample in a new bag and promptly seal it.

13. Label the bag with an identification (number, name, code, etc.) that links it to the data associated
to the sample. This data may be different from case to case.

14. Bag, label and store the excess beans from the composite sample with the original lot of beans.

15. Take test samples for each analysis of the physical and sensory quality evaluation. The
recommended amounts are based on a preliminary test sample (defined by ISO 2451:2017 as
a “quarter of the reference sample obtained by using a splitter/divider, which can be less than
600g”) and are illustrated in Figure 6. If the test is non-destructive, the samples can be reused.

Part A | General considerations 37


Reference sample
≤2kg

Quartering

PRELIMINARY TEST SAMPLES

1 2 3 4
≈500g ≈500g ≈500g ≈500g

Whole bean physical evaluation


Determination of
Aroma, appearance, Re-mixing moisture content
cleaning loss, bean count ≈1,000g ≈500g
≈500g

Cut bean physical evaluation Unroasted bean


Cleaning sensory evaluation
Aroma, appearance
≈970g ≈100g
300 beans

Roasting cacao beans


≥940g

Breaking and winnowing


roasted cacao beans
≥675g NOTE: Material loss estimates in weight:
3% Cleaning & sorting
3% Roasting
Liquefying nibs into cacao mass 28% Breaking & winnowing
≥600g 75g Grinding
75g Chocolate processing
Indicated quantity values may vary due
to differences in equipment type, bean
Cacao mass characteristics, and needs of the user.

Processing dark chocolate


Mass ≥400g Sugar ≥190g Cacao butter ≥45g

Cacao mass sensory evaluation Chocolate sensory evaluation


≥200g ≥560g

Figure 6. Chart illustrating the splitting of a 2kg reference sample into preliminary test samples for all evaluations described in this
guide (based on ISO 2451:2017).

38 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


A
5.4.3 Sampling cacao beans from bulk
Sampling beans from bulk involves taking incremental samples while the lot is in motion during loading
or discharging. The following steps should be followed:

1. Calculate the duration of sampling intervals for a lot in motion considering the capacity of the
hand scoop/s, the time required to load or discharge the beans (t) with 2kg as the minimum
size of the reference sample. Use Formula (1) in Figure 7 below.

Definition of variables
t: total time required to load/discharge the beans in minutes
s: capacity of hand scoop in kilograms (kg)
w: minimum weight of reference sample in kilograms (kg)
n: number of sampling points
i: duration of sampling intervals in minutes

Formula
n= w
(1) Number of sampling points: (2) Sampling intervals: i = t
s n

EXAMPLE: The cacao bean lot is 12 tonnes and will be loaded in about 20 minutes. The samples can
be obtained manually using a hand scoop with a capacity of 250g.
w = 2kg; s = 0.25kg; t = 20 minutes

• The required number of sampling points is 8 (using formula 1: 2kg/0.25kg per scoop = 8 sampling points).
• A sample needs to be taken every 2.5 minutes (using formula 2: 20 minutes/8 samples = 2.5 minutes)

Figure 7. Example of a calculation of sampling intervals for a lot in motion (Bioversity International, 2022).

2. Take the incremental samples across the whole section of the flow, perpendicular to the direction
of the flow and at previously established time intervals (see example in Figure 7).
3. Start the time of sampling as soon as the hatches open and stop the time of sampling when
the loading vessel is completely emptied or filled.
4. Collect all incremental samples into a clean storage vessel, such as a bucket with a lid (Annexes,
Figure 46).
5. Carefully and thoroughly mix the incremental samples collected to form the composite sample.
6. Reduce the composite sample by following the instructions from step 11 of Section 5.4.2 'Sampling
beans from bags'.

Taking incremental samples from still/static lots, wagons or vehicles:

1. Using Table 7 below, define the minimum number of sampling points in each wagon or vehicle.

Table 7. Minimum sampling points for taking incremental samples from a wagon or vehicle based on the amount of beans contained.

Amount of beans per wagon or vehicle (t) Sampling points per wagon or vehicle
15 or less 5
15 to 30 9
more than 30 15

Part A | General considerations 39


2. Assign the sampling points at locations corresponding to the middle of the wagons or vehicles
and approximately 50cm from their outer sides.

3. At each sampling point, draw the incremental samples from three levels within the wagons or
vehicles.

4. Collect all incremental samples into a clean storage vessel.

5. Carefully and thoroughly mix the incremental samples collected to form the composite sample.

6. Reduce the composite sample by following the instructions from step 11 of Section 5.4.2 'Sampling
beans from bags'.

Steps for taking incremental samples from still/static lots with shipping containers:

1. Each barge or ship should be sampled. If the samples cannot be obtained inside the barge or
ship, the contents of the shipping container can be emptied first into a warehouse or storage
location where the incremental samples can be drawn from.

2. The piles must be accessible on all sides and must not exceed 25t each.

3. The minimum number of sampling points is nine in each pile.

4. Draw the incremental samples from all side, and ensure that a sufficient number of beans is
obtained from the centre (middle point from top to bottom) of the barge, ship or pile.

5. Collect all incremental samples into a clean storage vessel.

6. Carefully and thoroughly, mix the incremental samples collected to form the composite sample.

7. Reduce the composite sample by following the instructions from step 11 in Section 5.4.2 'Sampling
beans from bags'.

5.5 Documentation of data, calculations and results


Documenting accurate and detailed information of the sampling process is crucial for interpreting
physical and sensory evaluation results, which provide inferences about the characteristics of the
entire lot.

Every sample process must be accompanied by a unique sample ID assigned following the user’s
specific identification system that links the sample to a specific lot. The data to be recorded from the
sampling process may include (but is not limited to) the following information:

∙ Sample ID.

∙ Weight (kg) of the sample.

∙ Sample origin.

∙ Sample producer.

∙ Date of sampling.

∙ Name of sample submitter.

∙ Name of sampler.

∙ Location where the sample was taken, e.g. warehouse.

∙ Types of analysis requested.

∙ Lot that the sample represents.

40 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


A
∙ Number of bags in the lot where the sample was taken.

∙ Number of reference samples.

∙ Size of reference samples.

∙ Mark/s of the original bag/s from which the sample was taken.

∙ Description of the bags (material, double bag, etc.).

∙ Number of sampling points.

∙ Notes about the external conditions of the bag/s from which the sample was taken.

∙ Sampling equipment used.

∙ If applicable, storage conditions of the sample (e.g. refrigeration at XX°C).

∙ Type of sampling method (i.e. bagged, bulk, stationary, moving stream).

∙ Dominant genetic origin or bean variety of the sample.

∙ Harvest period, i.e. main or mid-crop.

∙ Post-harvest conditions, i.e. fermentation and drying methods.

∙ Storage conditions, i.e. temperature, relative humidity, and use of pest control of the sample
before reception.

∙ Bag or packaging conditions, e.g. material used for the sample at reception.

∙ If available:

» Grade of beans, e.g. A, B, C, or SS for substandard.


» Physicochemical data, e.g. moisture content.

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

Part A | General considerations 41


Table 8 below shows an example of the information that could be recorded on the lot, its provenance
and/or place of origin and information on the post-harvest process. This information may vary according
to specific needs and situations.

Table 8. Example of information to be recorded on a bean lot.

Sample number/ID
Date of sampling (dd/mm/yyyy)
Bag or container ID the samples were received in
Country of origin of the cacao beans
Sample owner’s name (farmer)
Farm location – address, city, village/town, country
Processor (fermentation and drying)
Date arrived (dd/mm/yyyy)
Date fermented (mm/yyyy)
Duration of fermentation (days)
Method of fermentation
Turning regime used etc.
Dates of drying (dd/mm/yyyy)
Drying method
Sample identity and origin
Sample storage conditions prior to receipt and before assessment
Sampler’s name
Lot ID/Number
Lot size (kg)
Lot type (bags or bulk)
Lot general condition
Shipping marks (units x weight)
Reference samples (units x weight)

Additional remarks: condition of sample (visual, aroma,


presence of waste, insects, mould, broken beans etc.)

42 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Neil Palmer CIAT
44 |
Dolores Alvarado
Guide Bioversity
for International of Cacao Quality and Flavour
the Assessment
B

PART B | PHYSICAL EVALUATION


Chapter 6. Introduction

The physical evaluation of fermented and dried cacao samples serves as the initial step in assessing
the quality and flavour of cacao. Producers and buyers attach great significance to these evaluations,
focusing on indicators such as bean size, colour, moisture content, presence of contaminants, and
signs of pests or diseases. Additionally, aroma assessments of both whole and cut beans are conducted
during this stage.

This section provides a comprehensive protocol for determining the moisture content of cacao bean
samples. It also includes the determination of bean size as a function of bean weight and bean count.
It encompasses the assessment protocol for whole cacao beans, which aims to characterise the beans
and identify any defects based on their outer surface. This is crucial for evaluating consistency in the
physical quality of beans within a single batch or lot, as well as for making comparisons between
different batches or lots.

Furthermore, this section covers the protocol for conducting cut tests, where whole beans are halved
to examine their internal characteristics. These tests consider the colour, aroma, internal fissuring,
and the presence of defects, all of which can affect the quality and flavour of the beans.

Additionally, this section provides details on the equipment, tools and materials required for the
evaluations, the process for classifying cacao beans, and guidelines for documenting the results.

Part B | Physical evaluation 45


Ch 7. Determination of moisture content
7.1 Objective
The objective of this protocol is to measure the moisture content of fermented, dried and unroasted
cacao beans for subsequent processing.

It describes two methods: (1) the oven-drying method, which is the standard reference for calibrating
alternative methods and (2) the method using a hand-held moisture meter (See Figure 8 for the
comparison between the 2 methods).

Choosing a method depends on the needs and resources of the user. Both have advantages. The oven-
drying method provides a direct measurement of the loss of water. The moisture meter is portable,
allowing the user to carry out measurements from any location. However, in order to guarantee the
accuracy and precision of the results, moisture meters must be calibrated and maintained periodically,
e.g. once or twice a year.

The optimal range of moisture content for fermented and dried cacao beans is 6.5–7.5%. Moisture
content below 6% can result in a shell that is too brittle and a greater likelihood that the beans
disintegrate, leading to more broken beans. Moisture content above 8% results in the loss of edible
material, and an increased risk of mould and bacterial growth, with potentially serious consequences
for food safety, flavour and processing quality.

When conducting a flavour evaluation, determining the moisture content of cacao beans has two
main purposes:

∙ Verifies that the sample is in the correct range for food safety, flavour and processing.

∙ Informs the determination of roasting conditions, allowing for more precise tailoring of roasting
for each specific sample to express the beans’ full flavour potential (see Chapter 11 ‘Roasting
cacao beans’).

7.2 Key specifications


Table 9. Key specification for the determination of moisture content.

Parameter Specification
Minimum size of test sample of cacao beans 500g

Adriana Arciniégas CATIE

46 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


7.3 Equipment, tools and materials
Cacao beans
B
The minimum size of the test sample is 500g of cacao beans at room temperature (20–25°C/68–77°F),
quartered from the reference sample, following the sampling process see Chapter 5 'Sampling bagged
and bulk cacao beans'.

Oven-drying method
∙ Grinder: For grinding beans into a coarse powder without heating (see Annexes, Figure 71 for
examples).

∙ Ventilated or forced air oven: With temperature control at 103±2°C (217±3.6°F) see Annexes,
Figure 48.

∙ Heat-resistant metal or glass dishes: Equipped with a lid for each sample (at least two), with
a minimum useable surface area of 35cm² and a minimum diameter of 70mm and depth of
20–25mm (see Annexes, Figure 48).

∙ Desiccator: Large enough to contain all samples and can be sealed well, and filled with a dry
desiccant (see Annexes, Figure 48).

∙ Analytical measuring scale: With a precision of 1mg.

Moisture meter method


∙ Moisture meter: Calibrated for cacao beans with a moisture content ranging from 2% to 20%.
Examples are shown in Annexes, Figure 49, Figure 50 and Figure 51

7.4 Procedure
7.4.1 Oven-drying method
The following steps outline the procedure for measuring moisture content using an oven:

1. Check that the desiccant in the desiccator is dry and has not changed colour. If it is not dry, or
has changed colour (indicating wetness) dry it following the manufacturer’s instructions for
that specific desiccant material and brand.

2. Check that the dishes and lids are dried. If not, dry them overnight in the oven at 110°C (230°F)
and store them in the desiccator until use.

3. Label the dishes and their lids clearly (e.g. A and B for the two test samples that are being
measured).

4. Grind 500g of cacao beans into a coarse powder not exceeding a 5mm particle size (this size
can be inspected visually). Avoid the formation of a paste as this can occur if the beans are
ground too finely.

5. From the ground cacao beans, take at least two test samples (A and B) and follow steps 6–7
for each.

6. Weigh the empty dish with its lid and record its cacao mass as m0 (m0 A for test sample A and
m0B for test sample B).

7. Without setting the measuring scales to zero, quickly transfer 10g of the test sample into each
of the dishes and cover them with their lids immediately. Record the total mass of each dish
with the lid and the test sample as m1 (m1 A for test sample A and m1 B for test sample B).

Part B | Physical evaluation 47


NOTE: It is important to carry out the grinding and weighing (steps from 4 to 7) as quickly as possible, and within
five minutes at most, to avoid any sample absorption or loss of moisture due to environmental conditions. When
these two steps cannot be carried out immediately within the maximum timeframe indicated, the ground cacao
beans will need to be stored in a plastic bag or air-tight container for a maximum of two hours.

8. Set the oven to 103°C±2°C (217±°F).


9. Open the oven and place the dishes containing ground cacao beans on the rack. Remove the
lids and place each open dish onto its corresponding lid. The test samples must dry uncovered.
10. Set the oven for 16h±1h at 103°C±2°C (217±°F). Use an external timer if the oven does not
have an inbuilt timer function for this length of time. Avoid opening the oven during this process.
The measurement process may be carried out overnight, as 16 hours exceeds normal daily
working hours.
11. When the 16th hour is reached, open the oven and cover the dishes with the lids before removing
them from the oven.
12. Transfer the covered dishes to the desiccator and close or seal.

NOTE: To avoid moisture content variance due to environmental conditions, pay careful attention and open and
close the desiccator as quickly as possible.

13. Leave the dishes inside the desiccator until the samples have cooled to room temperature
(20–25°C or 68–77°F). This should take approximately 30–40 minutes.
14. To avoid moisture transfer, use tweezers to pick up the cooled dishes containing the sample and
bring it to the scale for weighing. Record the mass as m2 (m2A for sample A and m2B for sample B).
15. Calculate the moisture content as a percentage of the initial mass, using the following formula
(see Annex 3 for an example of calculation):

m0: mass of empty dish with lid


moisture content = (m1 – m2 ) x 100 where:
m1 – m0 m1 : mass of dish with lid and test sample before drying (g)
m2: mass of dish with lid and test sample after drying (g)

16. Express the result as the mean of the moisture content of all test samples (test sample A,
test sample B, etc).

NOTE: The measurement is considered repeatable if the difference between two measurements (carried out
simultaneously and by the same analyst) does not exceed a 0.3g/100g loss in mass.

7.4.2 Method using a moisture meter


This method uses a moisture meter. There are several equipment models and different brands that
can be used. The choice depends on the users’ preference and/or the given availability of commercial
products.

The procedure consists of pouring the beans directly into the chamber or cup of the moisture meter.
The portion size depends on the size of the chamber or cup as well as the beans, with smaller beans
making a better fit for the cup. The measurements are taken in sequence and the result is the average
of all the readings.

48 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


B
7.4.3 Comparison of methods

OVEN-DRYING MOISTURE METER

Reference sample for moisture content determination Reference sample for moisture content determination
500g 500g

Grinding of beans Test sample #A Test sample #B


500g (using whole beans) (using whole beans)

Test sample #A Test sample #B Direct reading of moisture content

Drying of test samples in the oven Moisture Content Moisture Content


16h Test sample #A Test sample #B

Cooling of test samples in the desiccator Moisture content of the sample


30_40min Average of MC of test samples #A and #B

Calculation of moisture content

Moisture Content Moisture Content


Test sample #A Test sample #B

Moisture content of the sample


Average of the moisture content for test samples #A and #B

Figure 8. Comparison between oven-drying and moisture meter methods.

Part B | Physical evaluation 49


7.5 Documentation of data, calculations and results
Since moisture absorption, malabsorption and release are dynamic processes. Therefore, when
recording data for moisture content determination, conditions such as ambient temperature and
relative humidity in the testing area at that particular point in time, must be recorded.

The information to be documented for each bean sample is presented in Table 10 and Table 11 below,
depending on the method used.

Table 10. Measurement of moisture content by oven-drying method.

Reference sample number/ID


Date processed (dd/mm/yyyy)
Total weight of the sample (g)
Grinder brand and model
Oven brand and model
Time drying starts (hh:mm)
Time drying ends (hh:mm)
Total drying time (hh:mm)
Drying temperature (°C or °F)
Room relative humidity (RH) at start
Room relative humidity (RH) at end

Test sample A Test sample B


Mass of the empty dish with lid-m0 (g)
Mass of the dish with lid containing test sample before drying-m1 (g)
Mass of the dish with lid containing test sample after drying-m2 (g)
Moisture content (%) (m1 _ m2) (g)
Comments

Table 11. Measurement of moisture content using a moisture metre.

Reference sample number/ID


Date processed (dd/mm/yyyy)
Moisture meter brand and model
Amount of beans per measurement (g)

Test sample A Test sample B


Moisture content (%)
Average moisture content (%)
Comments

50 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 8. Physical evaluation of whole cacao beans
B
8.1 Objective
This protocol describes the procedure for assessing the appearance and aroma of whole cacao beans
through visual inspection and smell. It also describes the process of cleaning and sorting a given sample
as a preparatory step for processing beans into cacao mass and chocolate for sensory evaluation. It
includes procedures for the following:

∙ Describing the general external appearance.

∙ Describing the external aroma.

∙ Measuring the cleaning loss.

∙ Categorising foreign and cacao-related matter.

∙ Calculating the yield of clean, whole and well-formed cacao beans.

∙ Estimating the average size of the bean through the bean count and bean index.

The specific objectives of this protocol are to:

∙ Assess the overall external appearance and aroma of whole cacao beans to characterise the
bean sample and identify serious defects.

∙ Measure and categorize the cleaning loss to calculate the clean bean yield.

∙ Obtain an indicator of cacao bean size by comparing it to the bean weight either through a cacao
bean count per 100g or by calculating the average individual bean weight.

This protocol is important to assess the consistency of the physical quality of cacao beans within a
single batch or lot, or between different batches or lots. For flavour evaluation, the physical evaluation
of whole cacao beans aids in the following:

∙ Determining time and temperature adjustments for a basic roast, based on bean size and moisture
content.

∙ Minimising damage to breaking and winnowing equipment resulting from abrasions, such as
foreign matter including pebbles or stones.

∙ Increasing the efficiency of separating edible from non-edible portions of the beans, i.e., shells
of cluster beans or shrivelled beans.

∙ Reducing risks of food safety by removing dust particles that harbour potentially pathogenic
microorganisms and . eliminating physical hazards (e.g., glass fragments).

8.2 Key specifications


Table 12. Key specifications for the physical evaluation of whole cacao beans.

Parameter Specification
Minimum size of cacao bean test sample for 500g
sieving and calculating the cleaning loss

Minimum size of cacao bean test sample for a 500g


bean count, appearence and aroma description

Part B | Physical evaluation 51


8.3 Equipment, tools and materials
Cacao beans
The minimum test sample size for sieving and determining the cleaning loss is 500g obtained from
quartering the reference sample with a minimum of 2kg of beans (see Chapter 5 'Sampling bagged
and bulk cacao beans').

Approximately 500g of cleaned and sorted beans is randomly selected for determining the bean
count, describing the appearance and aroma..

Tools for weighing


∙ Weighing scales - Electronic top-loading scales (Annexes, Figure 52), 2kg weighing capacity and
0.1g accuracy.

∙ Weighing trays.

∙ Hand-held scoop.

Other tools
∙ Sieve with a mesh of 5mm size.

∙ Mechanical shaker can also be used.

∙ Camera for taking photos.

∙ Artificial light with an illumination of 800 to 1,000 lux if the natural is not sufficient.

8.4 Procedure
8.4.1 Determining the cleaning loss
Cleaning loss refers to the overall reduction in cacao bean sample weight resulting from the removal
of small particles, such as dirt, through the process of sieving. It also includes the elimination of larger
particles like stones, screws, flat beans, or clusters.

Sieving refers to the fine particles loss from the sample that pass through a 5mm mesh sieve. These
cacao particle fines are typically dust present in the bag of the cacao beans..

The cleaning loss procedure is as follows:

1. Using a clean tray, weigh the cacao bean sample and record the total mass weight.

2. Pass the sample through a sieve with a mesh size of 5mm. A mechanical shaker can be used to
ensure maximum separation of the sieving (particle fines).

3. Put the sieving away for weighing.

4. Transfer the remaining bean sample onto a flat tray, preferably with a white surface, to clearly
see all the beans in one layer.

5. One by one, remove all cacao matter that contains nibs such as broken beans and bean fragments,
bean clusters (clumped together and doubled), and infested beans showing insect damage.

6. Remove all foreign matters such as stones, wooden sticks, plastic pieces, glass, screws, and
dry placenta.

7. Leave all clean, whole and well-formed beans on the tray. This is the clean and sorted sample.

52 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


B
8. Weigh it and calculate the yield of clean beans as a percentage of the total mass. The cleaning
loss can be categorised by weighing each of the categories and calculating the percentage of
each category in relation to the total mass of the sample.

9. Record the data of the original bean samples and of the resulting cleaned and sorted bean
samples to calculate the yield (see Table 15).

10. Take photos of the cleaning loss under good natural or artificial light with an illumination of 800
to 1,000 lux for documentation purposes.

8.4.2 Determining the bean size


The procedure for calculating bean size is as follows:

1. Use at least 500g of the cleaned and sorted sample to determine the bean count.

2. Measure the weight of the mass of whole bean sample up to 0.1g. Record this as mWHOLE.

3. Count the number of beans in the weighed sample. Record this as nWHOLE.

4. Record the bean count (nBEAN) as the number of beans per 100g using the formula below:

mWHOLE
= nWHOLE

5. Record the average bean weight ( ) using the formula below:

nWHOLE
nBEAN = m x 100
WHOLE

6. Store the cleaned and sorted cacao bean sample in a clean food safe bag or container.

7. Throw away any remaining sample particles found in the tools used and on working surfaces.

8. Clean and sanitise all tools and work surfaces.

9. Visually examine the size homogeneity of the clean sample and leave a comment on your general
impression of the sample.

10. Record the data (see Table 16).

NOTE: Bean size is an essential step towards determining the precise roasting conditions of a specific bean sample
for sensory flavour evaluation (see Chapter 11 ‘Roasting cacao beans’). Additionally, beans can be classified based
on a bean count as shown next in Table 13 and Table 14.

Table 13. Classification of beans by size based on bean count/100g (ISO 2451:2017). National regulations may differ.

Size code Descriptive size classification Bean count (100g)


1 Standard beans <100
2 Mediums beans 101–110
3 Small beans 111–120
4 Very small beans >120

Part B | Physical evaluation 53


Table 14. Example of grading allowances for cacao beans following a quality assessment (ICE, 2017). National grading systems may
vary according to national laws or agreements with client.

Cacao bean grade


Factors Outstanding Satisfactory Unacceptable

# of beans with defects 0–5 6–15 >15


(per 100 beans)

% of residue and foreign material – 1.30–3.75% >3.75%


(per 2kg sample)
Bean count – # of beans 90–99 101–120 >120
(per 100g)
Standard deviation bean count – 26–40 >40
(per 2kg)
% of bean clusters – 2.60–7.50% >7.50%
(per 2kg)

8.4.3 Describing the appearance and aroma of whole cacao beans


Choose a location that is free of strong smells and pay particular attention to smells from perfumes,
creams, deodorants, and hair products that may distort the aroma of the beans.

1. Place the 500g cleaned and sorted beans on a tray, bowl or plate.

2. Smell the beans at a distance of approximately 2cm.

3. Describe the odours and pay particular attention to identifying those that may indicate defects.
Refer to Table 40 for a listing of off-flavours..

4. Visually examine the beans under natural daylight or equivalent artificial light with an illumination
intensity of 800 to 1,000lux:

∙ Bean surface: shrivelled or wrinkled, plump or plain, concave or convex, with or without stuck
mucilage rests, clean or dirty. This is important because beans with shrivelled or wrinkled shells
are not easily winnowed and will have higher processing losses due to shells sticking to the
cotyledons or nibs. Meanwhile, fully plump beans will roast easily; their shells will come off
more readily, thus requiring gentler breaking.

∙ Colour: light or dark brown, tending toward orange or red, with or without spots, white, green
or black spots. Off-colours can be due to heavy external mould and dark spots are often due
to contact with metal.

∙ Signs of infestation: presence of live and dead larvae, moulted larvae skins, webbing materials
and insect droppings, which could pose a food safety risk and affect the flavour of the beans.

5. Take photos using natural daylight or artificial light with an illumination intensity of 800 to
1,000 lux. Document the appearence and aroma of the beans (see Table 17).

54 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


8.5 Documentation of data, calculations and results
B
Table 15. Data to be recorded for sieving, cleaning loss and yields of clean beans.

Sample number/ID
Date processed (dd/mm/yyyy)
Weight of the original cacao bean sample (g)
Weight of the cleaned and sorted sample (g)
Calculated cleaning loss (%)
Calculated yield of clean whole and well-formed beans (%)

Categorisation of cleaning loss


Sieving Weight (g)
Percentage (%)

Cacao-related matter Weight (g)


Percentage (%)

Foreign matter Weight (g)


Percentage (%)

Table 16. Data to be recorded for the bean count and the average bean weight as indicators of bean size.

Sample number/ID
Weight of the whole beans (g)
Number of beans
Calculated bean count (beans/100g)
Calculated bean average weight (g/bean)
Visual general impression of size homogeneity

Table 17. Data to be recorded for the appearance and aroma of whole beans.

Sample number/ID
Parameter Description

Appearance Bean surface


Colour
Signs of infestation
Signs of mould
Aroma Off-odours
Dominant aroma attributes

Part B | Physical evaluation 55


Ch 9. Physical evaluation of cut cacao beans
9.1 Objective
A cut test is performed on fermented and dried beans as the primary method for visually evaluating
the physical quality of the beans, including colour, internal fissuring, and the presence of defects.
Additionally, the aroma of cut beans is assessed. This information is essential for characterising the
bean sample, confirming the genetic composition of the beans, and determining the optimal roasting
conditions for processing the beans into cacao mass for sensory evaluation.

Results of the analyses described in this protocol may lead to the rejection of samples for further
sensory analysis due to food-safety risks, if certain levels of defects are found. Such defects are
characterised by: (1) extreme internal or external mould presence, (2) moth infestation or (3) high
intensity of smoky odours. The experience of the person carrying out the cut test analysis is critical.

The cut test aroma gives a good initial indication of the dominant aromas that may be present in the
cacao mass and/or chocolate. It also guides the selection of the roasting conditions.

This evaluation helps identify defective beans and excludes them from sensory evaluation due to
food safety-related risks.

The objective is to assess a minimum of 50 and up to 300 beans, cut either using a knife and cutting
board or a guillotine cutter, to expose equal halves that are quickly examined under good light before
surface oxidation can occur. The use of a guillotine cutter allows the evaluator to immediately smell
the aroma of 50 beans cut at the same time. If cutting beans individually, the use of protective gloves is
an important precautionary measure requiring careful attention to avoid injuring hands and/or fingers.

All visual inspections (i.e., assessment of appearance and fissuring) must be carried out in daylight or
with an equivalent artificial light of 800 to 1,000lux in illumination.

The location should be odourless, especially for the assessment of the aroma of cut beans. The bean
and room temperature should be at minimum 22°C (71.5°F). If not, the beans will not release odour as
they are poorly perceived in cold temperatures.

9.2 Key specifications


Table 18. Key specifications for the physical evaluation of cut cacao beans.

Parameter Specification
Minimum number of cacao bean for the cut test 300 (ISO 2292:2017) – see note below

9.3 Equipment, tools and materials


Cacao beans
A total of 300 cacao beans are to be taken randomly from the reference sample avoiding empty and
flat beans (see Chapter 8 ‘Physical evaluation of whole cacao beans’).

NOTE: All commercial contracts are governed by formal arbitration requirements that require that cut tests be
conducted on up to 300 beans. Cut test can be repeated as many times as necessary to comply with legal and
customer requirements. Companies tend to start with 50 beans. If those do not reveal any defects, no further
cuts are made.

56 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


B
Cacao beans
∙ For cutting individual beans:
» A knife, pruning shears or a plastic cutter with a fine edge are critical to ensure that the
internal structure of the bean is not at all or minimally altered, to have an accurate view
of the internal texture fissuring the beans (Annexes, Figure 54).
» Cutting board.
» Protective gloves.
» Classification board for cut beans (Annexes, Figure 55).
∙ A guillotine cutter for cutting 50 beans at once (Annexes, Figure 56f).
∙ Colour guide reference tool (Figure 35), for photographs of the cut beans.
∙ Cacao cut test chart (Annexes, Figure 33).
∙ Camera for photo capture.
∙ Artificial light of 800 to 1,000lux in illumination.
∙ Location that is odourless with a room temperature of 22oC (71.6oF), at minimum.

9.4 Procedure
9.4.1 Cutting the beans in halves
The procedures for cutting individual beans in half using a knife is as follows:

1. Randomly select the first set of 50 beans to cut, irrespective of size, shape and condition, from
the test sample of 300 beans.

2. Wear protective gloves.

3. Use a knife, pruning shears or plastic cutter with a fine edge (Annexes, Figure 54) to cut each
bean by holding it steadily to ensure an even cut lengthwise along the central longitudinal axis.

4. Immediately smell the bean and record your observations.

5. Put the two halves of the bean on the classification board (Annex 14.4, Figure 54).

6. Take photos using the colour guide reference and good natural light or artificial light of 800 to
1,000lux in illumination, within 15 minutes of cutting as colours will fade.

7. Record the observations in number and percentage for each category (defective beans, colour,
fissuring, fermentation, mould, and insect infestation).

8. Repeat the process for all beans up to 300.

9. Take a random handful of the cut beans, smash them with your hands and smell them.

10. Record the description of the aroma.

The procedure for using the guillotine cutter for 50 beans at a time is as follows:
1. Open the guillotine and lay both sides horizontally on a table or on a flat and clean work surface.

2. Place a bean in each of the 50 chambers of the cutter on one side of the cutters. Select the
beans randomly irrespective of size, shape and condition, from the test sample of 300 beans.
Arrange the beans in such a way that the beans' longitudinal axis lines up with the longitudinal
axis of the chamber in the cutting bed (Annexes, Figure 56a).

Part B | Physical evaluation 57


3. Close the top side of the guillotine cutter and press the latch firmly, to secure the closed cutter
after filling with the beans (Annexes, Figure 56b and Figure 56c).
4. Place the cutter vertically on its feet on the floor or a low table (Annexes, Figure 56d).
5. Insert the guillotine blade to begin cutting. There is only one way that the blade can enter the
cutting chamber, since one of the brass rails is larger than the other (Annexes, Figure 56d).
6. Apply careful, even pressure to cut the beans and create a smooth and even cut to ensure that
the blade moves down the rails vertically, until it comes to a stop with the handle on the top of
the cutting block (Annexes, Figure 56e). Applying uneven pressure can result in irregular bean
breakage and a rough cut, which makes examination more difficult. Do not remove the cutting
blade while the cutter is positioned vertically, to prevent the halves on the upper part from
falling out of their guillotine chambers.
7. Lay the guillotine cutter flat on a table or on a flat and clean work surface ( Annexes, Figure 56f);
undo the latch and open the top part of the cutter (Annexes, Figure 56g).
8. Remove the blade (Annexes, Figure 56h).
9. Using a knife, manually cut any bean that remains uncut by the guillotine.
10. Take photos for your records using the colour guide reference and good natural light or artificial
of 800 to 1,000lux in illumination within 15 minutes of cutting as colours will fade.
11. Record the observations by number and percentage for each category (defective beans, colour,
fissuring, fermentation, mould, insect infestation, see Table 20).

9.4.2 Describing the aroma


1. Immediately after cutting, assess the aroma by smelling the beans at a distance of 2cm from
the nose, moving your head up and down the samples to perceive the overall smell.

2. Assess all aromas perceived, such as dominant, non-defective and defective odours, as listed
in Table 40.

3. Record the perceived aroma using the form in Table 20. The perceived aromas are useful in
selecting the most suitable roasting conditions for processing the beans into cacao mass for
sensory evaluation (see Chapter 11 ‘Roasting cacao beans’).

9.4.3 Assessment of appearance defects, colour and fissuring


1. Visually examine both halves of each bean in daylight or equivalent artificial light of 800 to
1,000lux in illumination for the characteristics listed by group in Table 19.

2. Record your observations using the evaluation form in Table 20.

3. Assess each bean on the basis of defect level (Group 1), colour (Group 2) and fissuring
(Group 3) detailed in Table 19.

4. Count the beans for each group, using the guide in Table 19.
a. Group 1 – defective beans: count how many beans are mouldy, insect-damaged, germinated
and slaty: in descending order of severity. If a bean presents two or more defects, record
the defect that is higher on this list. For example, if a bean is both mouldy and germinated,
record the defect as mouldy, not germinated. Record the number of beans in each category.

b. Group 2 – colour: it takes about 15 minutes from the time the beans are cut before
the colour starts to fade and change due to oxidation. Thus, photos should be taken
within this time frame. In order to standardise colours for different lighting and camera

58 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Table 19. Characteristics of internal appearance of beans by groups (based on Sukha, 2016; and Seguine, 2014).
B
Group 1: defective beans Group 2: colour Group 3: fissuring
Mouldy beans Low fermented Fissuring grade 1
Insect-damaged/infested beans Fully purple/violet Fissuring grade 2
Ivory/white/blond
Germinated beans Fissuring grade 3
Slaty beans Partially fermented Fissuring grade 4
Partly purple/violet
Partly brown
Well fermented
Light brown/yellowish
Fully light brown
Fully brown
Over fermented
Fully dark brown
Fully very dark brown
Fully black

exposures, a reference guide for colour (see Annexes, Figure 35) may be used. Figure 33 and
Figure 34 in the Annexes show coloured photos of cut beans that illustrate different degrees
of fermentation. In general terms, purple/violet beans are less fermented than light to dark
brown beans, while very dark brown or even black coloured beans indicate overfermentation.
Record the number of beans in each category.

c. Group 3 – fissuring: fissuring is characterised by the opening up of large splits or rifts within
the beans' internal structure as a result of proteolysis during fermentation which is retained
during drying. Beans that are heavily fissured are generally more fermented than beans that
have a cheesy or slaty appearance when cut. Record the number of beans in each category.

Fissuring and colour changes are two separate processes that occur during fermentation. While
fissuring grade and colour are related, they are not always correlated and may depend on the beans'
genetic traits and post-harvest conditions, when fermented and dried. When used alone, neither a
fissuring grade, nor colour can provide complete information about the degree of fermentation, hence
a comprehensive analysis that includes all observations about bean appearance is recommended.

Judgement is required in interpreting cut tests. The cut test and the flavour profile are important
to assess the level of fermentation. A cut test is indicative and does not predict the results of a
flavour evaluation.

9.5 Classification of cacao beans


Various standards for evaluating the physical quality of cacao beans and grading methods rely on the
qualitative and quantitative assessment of specific criteria, primarily determined through the cut test.
These evaluation criteria include:

∙ Defects: Assessing the appearance of beans, such as the presence of mouldy, germinated, or
insect-damaged beans.
∙ Sensory attributes: Evaluating the aroma of the beans, including detecting smoky, mouldy, or
hammy odours.
∙ Degree of fermentation: Examining the colour and fissuring of the cut beans' surface to determine
the level of fermentation, distinguishing between smooth or fissured surfaces.

Part B | Physical evaluation 59


Different grades and categories for classifying cacao beans are set by the International Organization
for Standardization (ISO), the Cocoa Merchants’ Association of America (CMAA), the Federation of
Cocoa Commerce London (FCC), the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the ASEAN Ministers
on Agriculture and Forestry (AMAF) and others, based on the percentage of defects and/or level of
fermentation (Annexes, Table 47). National regulations on cacao bean grading vary among countries
– see compilation in Annexes, Table 48.

El Salvador Cooperativa Barra Ciega

60 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


9.6 Documentation of data, calculations and results
B
Table 20. Form to record the appearance and aroma of cut beans. It is recommended 50 should be described.

Sample number/ID
Aroma
Aroma description

Appearance
Description on the overall
appearance of cut beans

Defective beans
Number of beans
DEFECT Cut 1 Cut 2 Cut 3 Cut 4 Cut 5 Cut 6 Total%
Mouldy
Insect-damaged/infested
Germinated
Slaty
Total 100%

Colour
Number of beans
CATEGORY Cut 1 Cut 2 Cut 3 Cut 4 Cut 5 Cut 6 Total%

Fully purple/violet
Ivory/white/blond
Partly purple/violet
FERMENTATION

Partly brown
Light brown/yellowish
Fully light brown
Fully brown
Fully dark brown
Fully very dark brown
Fully black

Total 100%

Fissuring grade
Number of beans
FISSURING GRADE Cut 1 Cut 2 Cut 3 Cut 4 Cut 5 Cut 6 Total%
1
2
3
4
Total 100%

Comments

Part B | Physical evaluation 61


62 |Kathya Archila
Guide Bioversity
for International of Cacao Quality and Flavour
the Assessment
C

PART C | PROCESSING CACAO BEAN SAMPLES


Chapter 10. Introduction

The objective of processing fermented and dried cacao beans into mass and chocolate is to carry out
the sensory evaluation and describe their flavour profile and determine their global quality.

This section provides protocols for various stages of processing cacao beans samples from roasting,
breaking and winnowing, to processing the cacao nibs into mass and dark chocolate.

After analysing the bean samples for physical qualities such as moisture content, bean size, and cut
test aroma, precise roasting temperatures and time can be determined for each sample optimal
flavour expression. The resulting cacao nibs are then ground into a fine cacao mass and chocolate
for sensory evaluation.

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 63


Ch 11. Roasting cacao beans
11.1 Objective
This protocol describes the roasting process for fermented and dried cacao beans. It is developed
through extensive experience in roasting cacao beans from all regions and cacao-producing countries
worldwide, representing a broad range of genetic diversity and flavour profiles resulting from post-
harvest practices. The goal of determining the optimal roasting conditions is to ensure the optimal
flavour expression of each cacao bean. The basic roasting time and temperature are selected based
on the dominant genetics, and adjusted based on the bean size and moisture content.

Once roasted the beans can be broken and winnowed and further processed into mass and chocolate
for subsequent sensory evaluation. For this purpose, cacao beans samples are roasted only once.
Therefore the optimal roasting conditions must be selected carefully. Bean-to-bar chocolate makers
will typically conduct multiple roasts to determine their desired flavour profile for the final product
they intend to create. This protocol provides guidance on selecting the most appropriate roasting
conditions when conducting a single roast.

The procedure detailed in this protocol specifically applies to the use of a forced air convection oven
equipped with precise temperature and time controls, to ensure accuracy and reproducibility in the
roasting process.

It is important to note that the roasting conditions outlined in this protocol may not eliminate
microbiological hazards, as it ultimately depends on the initial microbiological load present in the
unroasted beans. It is the responsibility of the user to implement additional controls and perform
microbiological analyses to ensure food safety when processing samples into mass or chocolate to
be consumed by panel members for sensory evaluation.

11.2 Key specifications


Table 21. Key specifications for roasting cacao beans.

Parameter Specification
Minimum size of cacao bean test sample 600g

Type of oven Forced-air convection oven, specifications in Tables 60 and 61


Oven trays with the mesh – see Section 11.3.2 'Oven trays'

Basic roast: temperature and time Low roast: 112°C (234°F) x 25min
Medium roast: 120°C (248°F) x 25min
High roast: 130°C (266°F) x 25min

Adjustments to roasting temperature and time Based on bean size and moisture content (see Annexes, Table 49)

64 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
11.3 Equipment, tools and materials
Cacao beans
The minimum test sample is of 600g of cleaned and sorted, cacao beans representing a lot. The
amount of cacao beans must be enough to cover each oven tray with a single layer (see Section 11.4.2
'Loading the beans on the oven trays'). This can be between 600-800g with the use of 2 trays per
roasting. If the targeted amount of cacao mass is greater, the roasting process is repeated until the
full sample is roasted.

11.3.1 Roasting oven


The procedure is for the use with a forced air convection oven with the minimum recommended
specifications provided in Table 22.

Table 22. Recommended specifications for the roasting oven.

Parameter Specification
Type Forced air convection oven
Variables to control Temperature and time (digital setting)
Temperature range 100–200°C (212–392°F)
Recovery time after 30s of opening the door at 150°C (302°F) Less than 5 min
in empty oven
Temperature uniformity within the oven at 150°C (302°F) Variation of ±2°C (±3.6°F)
Temperature stability (over time) within the oven at 150°C (302°F) Fluctuation of ±0.3°C (±0.6°F)
Speed of temperature increase (from ambient temperature 6°C (10.8°F) per minute maximum
to 150°C/302°F, empty oven)
Venting Closed
Air circulation rate 80 chamber-air exchanges/hour
Number of trays 2
Position of trays Symmetrically placed above and below the fan opening
Compliance Food grade, national and local regulations

Shawn Landersz Bioversity International

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 65


11.3.2 Oven trays
∙ It is recommended to use two oven trays covered with a wire mesh screen from food-safe
materials, preferably stainless steel. However, regular steel can be used as an alternative (refer
to Annexes, Figure 58 and Figure 59). It is important to avoid using zinc-coated or treated steel
wire mesh screens due to their potential toxicity at high temperatures and their reactivity with
the acidity of the beans.

∙ To minimise contact between the beans and the surface of the oven tray, it is advisable to use
trays with thin-wired mesh screens. This helps prevent excessive heat transfer to the beans
through conduction. Examples of mesh screens are detailed in Figure 60 of the Annexes. For
square wire mesh standard specifications, refer to Table 62 of the Annexes.

∙ It is recommended to ensure that the screen open area between each steel wire thread, which
forms the mesh, is greater than 75% of the total surface area of the tray. The screen open area
refers to the percentage of the mesh opening in relation to the entire screen surface and is
determined by the ratio between the mesh width (w) and wire diameter (d) (refer to Figure 9).

∙ Avoid using metal plates or trays with holes, as they do not provide sufficient screen open area.
These plates or trays can lead to uneven roasting due to conduction where the metal comes
into contact with the beans.

d w d d w d
A 0 = 45% A 0 = 70%

Figure 9. The open area of a screen (Ao) defines the mesh openings as a percentage of the entire screen surface and is based on
the ratio between mesh width (w), assuming the space is square, and the wire diameter (d). (metalmesh.com.au/glossary)
A 0 = ( w (mm) )2 x 100%
w (mm) + d (mm)s

∙ In cases where filler beans are used, use thin stainless-steel or aluminium dividers to separate
the two types of beans.

11.3.3 Filler beans


∙ If there are not enough cacao beans to fill both oven trays, filler beans should be used.

∙ Filler beans should have the following characteristics:

» Free of defects and off-flavours (see Chapter 9 ‘Physical evaluation of cut cacao beans’), to
avoid the transfer of extraneous odours to the reference bean sample.
» Neutral in flavour, with a flavour profile similar to the reference (if known) to ensure that the
roasting of filler beans does not impart strong odours to the reference bean sample.

66 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
» Match the reference bean sample in terms of dominant genetics, bean count, and moisture
content. This is necessary to avoid any transfer of over-roasted flavours to the reference bean
sample. While under-roasted notes are of less concern and are less likely to be transferred, it
is still important to ensure consistency in the roasting conditions for the filler beans.

11.3.4 Other tools


∙ A top-loading digital scale with a minimum capacity of 400g and precision of 1g for weighing
the beans.

∙ A digital timer in addition to the one provided by the oven.


∙ Heat-resistant mitts for safely handling, loading and removing the roasting trays.
∙ Heat-resistant, food-grade containers for weighing the beans and transferring them from the
scale to the roasting trays.
∙ A heat-resistant stand to allow the roasting trays to cool or alternatively a separate tray to place
the freshly roasted beans for cooling.
∙ A brush for cleaning the oven.
∙ A non-contact infrared thermometer with a measuring range of 0–100°C (32–212°F) to measure
the temperature of the beans during the cooling process, prior to breaking and winnowing.

11.4 Procedure
11.4.1 Selecting the roasting conditions
The specific roasting temperature and time are determined based on available information from the
samples and/or verification by experts regarding the dominant genetics of the samples (whether
leaning towards Criollo, Trinitario or Forastero type). Additionally, the physical analysis of both whole
and cut beans, as well as the aroma, serve as indicators of the genetic characteristics described in
Chapters 8 and 9. It is important to ensure that the bean sample is clean and sorted, removing damaged
beans (such as those with missing shells, germinated, obvious defects, or cuts), extraneous matter,
and small or flat beans.

The selection of the basic roast (low, medium, or high roast), must be done carefully to optimise
the expression of the inherent flavour characteristics. For example, a high roast may enhance the
development of intense cacao flavours in Forastero types, while it could result in the loss of delicate
flavour notes (e.g., floral, fruity) in Trinitario and Criollo types. According to the basic roasting conditions,
further adjustments are made based on bean size and moisture content. These adjustments account
for differences in heat transfer, which in turn influence flavour development.

1. To determine the appropriate basic roasting conditions in Table 23, the following factors should
be taken into account:

∙ Dominant genetic type (if known).


∙ Physical appearance of the whole and cut beans, including their colour, which can indicate the
genetic type or degree of fermentation.
∙ The aroma from the cut test (refer to Section 9.4.2 'Describing the aroma'), which is indicative
of the flavour notes that could be expressed.
∙ The necessary adjustments of time and temperature are based on the bean size and moisture
content. Refer to Table 49 in the Annexes.
∙ If the aroma notes of the unroasted beans are not clearly perceived or identified, it is recommended

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 67


to conduct roasting trials using at least two different roast types (refer to Table 23).
∙ It is crucial to document and communicate the selected roasting conditions (time and
temperature), along with relevant sensory evaluation data (see the form in Section 11.5 Table 24).

Table 23. Basic roasting conditions, including temperature and time, are determined based on the aromas identified in the cut test
and the dominant genetic type of the cacao beans (if known).

Time Cacao bean aroma from cut test and


Basic roast Temperature (minutes) information on genetic types

Low 112°C (234°F) 25 Significant, nutty or caramel notes are perceived. This roast
may be best suited for some Criollo types

Medium 120°C (248°F) 25 Significant fresh fruity, browned fruits, spicy or floral notes are
perceived. This roast may be best suited for some Trinitario types

High 130°C (266°F) 25 None of the above notes are significantly perceived. At these
roasting conditions, cacao notes will be enhanced. This roast
may be best suited for some Forastero types

11.4.2 Loading the beans on the oven trays


1. Clean the oven wire mesh trays thoroughly using a suitable brush before loading them.
2. Load each tray with a single layer of beans. For each roasting session, prepare a maximum of
two trays.
3. Weigh the beans (in grams) and make sure to record the data.
4. If there are insufficient beans to completely cover the two trays, fill the empty surface with filler
beans. Use dividers to keep the filler beans separate. Refer to Section 11.3.3 on 'Filler beans' for
more information.
5. Put both trays below and above the air fans at equal distance.

NOTE: The oven load significantly affects the roasting results, making it crucial to ensure that both trays are
covered precisely with a single layer of beans, each with the same weight.

11.4.3 Roasting process


1. Turn on the oven and set the desire roasting temperature as determined in Procedure 11.4.1
'Selecting the roasting conditions' step 2.
2. Keep the two loaded trays close to the oven, ready for quick loading as soon as the oven reaches
the target temperature.

3. Set the timer for 20 seconds, which is the maximum time for opening and closing the oven to
minimise temperature drop.

4. Once the oven reaches the desired temperature, start the timer, open the oven door, place
the two trays inside, and promptly close the oven door. Position the trays as symmetrically as
possible, with one tray above and the other below the circulating fan. Optionally, take note of
the lowest temperature reached after closing the door, which indicates the temperature drop.

68 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
5. When the temperature reaches 2°C (3.6°F) below the target roasting temperature, start the
timer for the targeted roasting time.
6. When the targeted roasting time is reached, open the oven door, remove the two trays and
place them on a heat-resistant clean surface.
7. Load two additional trays if necessary to complete the roasting of a specific sample. Ensure
that the removal and loading process does not exceed 20 seconds. Repeat this process until
the roasting of the sample is completed.

NOTE: Any recommendations in roasting times are based on careful control in the laboratory. This ensures that
recovery times for oven temperatures after loading the roasting trays are kept as constant as possible. Ovens different
from the specified type, including their recovery times, can still be used. Nevertheless, experience and experiments
may be needed to adjust the start of the roasting time, as uniform temperature throughout the oven is critical.

11.4.4 Cooling the beans and moisture content


1. Cool the beans on the trays kept at room temperature, away from anything that has a strong
smell. If available, use a cooling tray (see Annexes, Figure 61).

2. The beans are considered ready for breaking and winnowing when their temperature is
approximately 40°C (104°F), which can be measured using an infrared thermometer or sensed
as barely warm to the touch. The time it takes for the beans to reach this temperature can vary,
depending on the room temperature and ventilation, typically taking about 10 minutes.

3. After roasting, weigh the beans and record the data.

4. It is recommended to break and winnow the roasted beans within 60 minutes after roasting.
This timeframe facilitates easier separation of the shells from the nibs.

5. In certain processing scenarios, knowing the moisture content of the beans after roasting
can be useful. For instructions on how to measure the moisture content, refer to Section 7.4.1
'Oven-drying method'. On average, there is a 4% moisture loss during roasting.

NOTE: Unroasted beans are a raw agricultural product that may contain pathogens prior to roasting and can cross-
contaminate the roasted beans if there is no clear separation of processes. Clean and disinfect all counter space,
contact surfaces and tools between batches and samples. See Part A, Chapter 3 for additional recommendations.

Shawn Landersz Bioversity International

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 69


11.5 Documentation of data, calculations and results
Table 24. Data to be recorded for the roasting process and roasting results.

General
Reference sample number/ID
Date (dd/mm/yyyy)
Name of the person carrying out the roasting process

Oven
Brand
Model
Type
Year

Trays
Material
Wire mesh screen open area (%)
Thickness of the wire mesh screen (mm)
Number of trays used

Weight of the beans before roasting (g)

Weight of beans per tray (g)

Basic roasting conditions


LOW 112°C (234°F) 25min
MEDIUM 120°C (248°F) 25min
HIGH 130°C (266°F) 25min

Moisture content (%)


Bean size (g)

Adjusted roasting conditions


Temperature (°C or °F)
Time (min)

Weight of the beans after roasting (g)

Moisture content after roasting (%)

Additional information

70 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 12. Breaking and winnowing cacao beans
C
12.1 Objective
This protocol outlines the process of breaking and winnowing roasted cacao beans to obtain the nibs,
which are then grounded into a mass and chocolate for sensory evaluation.

Breaking the roasted beans reduce their size and loosen the shells from the nibs or cotyledons.
Winnowing aims to separate the shells from the nibs. To facilitate the separation of shells from the
nibs, it is recommended to break and winnow the roasted beans within 60 minutes after roasting. The
process of breaking and winnowing roasted beans can be carried out using manual, semi-manual, or
electro-mechanical systems. It is crucial to handle the beans carefully during the breaking process to
avoid generating fines and dust.

Once the broken roasted beans have been winnowed, the visual inspection should indicate that there
is no remaining cacao shell in the nibs. This is essential to reduce the risk of equipment damage and
ensure health safety, as the shells may contain pathogens that are not eliminated during the roasting
process. Cacao shells are fibrous and hard, and they may also carry abrasive silicate materials on their
exteriors. Their presence during grinding into mass and chocolate, can lead to equipment abrasion and
negative impacts on flavour. According to the Codex Alimentarius (Codex Stan 141-1983, revised 2001
amended 2014), the acceptable maximum shell content in cacao mass is 1.75%. Although this cannot
be measured analytically with a scale, the goal is to eliminate all shells based on visual inspection,
ensuring that there are less than 0.1% of shell fines in the nibs.

The exterior of the cacao shells may retain non-pathogenic thermophilic bacterial spores that survive
the roasting process. By completely removing shells and shell fragments through visual inspection,
Cacao of Excellence data shows that thermophilic microorganisms counts are far below 10,000/g
with an average of around 100/g.

Inefficient winnowing can result in a significant loss of small nib particles, which can have a considerable
economic impact, particularly when dealing with large volumes of beans. Depending on the sample,
some shells may remain stuck to the nibs and not separate during the winnowing process. These
remaining shells must be manually removed (picked) using tweezers.

It is important to note that breaking and winnowing should not be conducted in close proximity to
unroasted cacao beans. Additionally, it is recommended to calculate the yield of nibs obtained from
the roasted beans once the shells are completely removed, to estimate the quatity of cacao mass to
be produced.

12.2 Key specifications


Table 25. Key specifications for breaking and winnowing cacao beans.

Parameter Specification
Minimum size of test sample of roasted cacao beans for representativeness of a bean lot 600g
Target for the shell-to-nib ratio – visually 0%

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 71


12.3 Equipment, tools and materials
Cacao beans
The output of the roasting process of a minimum of 600g of cacao beans, representing a bean lot.
This quantity can be increased based on equipment capacity and/or for a greater quantity of cacao
mass and chocolate for sensory evaluation.

12.3.1 Manual and semi-manual processes


Recommended tools for a manual process
∙ 3 trays or bowls to collect shells and nibs separately.
∙ Tight-fitting rubber gloves.

Recommended tools for a semi-manual process


∙ Zip-type, resealable plastic bags, heavy gauge (≥3mm) (Annexes, Figure 62a).
∙ A rolling pin (Annexes, Figure 62a).
∙ A flat tray of a suitable size, depending on the amounts roasted.
∙ At least 1 tray or bowl to collect the shells and nibs separately.

Recommended winnowing tools options


∙ A hair dryer or ventilator (Annexes, Figure 62b).
∙ A winnowing basket.
∙ A self-made winnower (Annexes, Figure 63).

12.3.2 Electro-mechanical process


A cacao bean breaker and winnower are required. The following are examples of commercial brands
available:

∙ CAPCO cacao bean cracker and winnower (Annexes, Figure 64).


∙ CocoaTown™ cacao bean cracker (Annexes, Figure 65) and winnower (Annexes, Figure 66).
∙ At least 2 trays or bowls to collect shells and nibs separately.

12.3.3 Recommended tools for picking shells from the nibs


∙ A stainless steel tray.
∙ Tweezers for picking the nibs with stuck shells.
∙ A bowl for collecting the nibs with stuck shells.
∙ Eye protection.
∙ Ear protection during mechanical procedures.

12.4 Procedure
12.4.1 Manual process
1. Wear tight-fitting rubber gloves from start to finish.
2. Fill a clean tray or bowl with the roasted cacao beans and have two empty clean trays or bowls
within close proximity to collect the nibs and shells separately.
3. Break the beans individually between your fingers and the shells to obtain the nibs.
4. Collect the nibs and shells in separate trays or bowls.

72 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
5. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the shell fragments, if shell fragments remain among the nibs,
and if the shell is stuck on the nib, discard the nib.
6. Discard the shells.
7. Inspect visually to ensure that there are no shells with the nibs.
8. Record the weight of the nibs.
9. Store the nibs until further use (see Section 12.4.6 'Storage of cacao nibs').
10. Between batches, clean and disinfect the counters, contact surfaces and tools, using a
food-grade and odourless cleaning agent or disinfectant as described in Chapter 3 on ‘Food
safety considerations’.

12.4.2 Semi-manual process


Breaking
1. Fill from third to a half of a new resealable zip-type bag with roasted cacao beans.

2. Place the bag on a flat surface.

3. Apply pressure by running a rolling pin over the beans to beak them (Annexes, Figure 62a).

4. Flip the bag on the other side and run the rolling pin over the beans once more, making sure to
beak all remaining whole beans.

NOTE: It is recommended to use a new resealable zip-type bag for each sample or for the same sample, especially
when the bag becomes punctured.

Winnowing
Wind-winnowing or using a hair dryer or ventilator can create a mess. It is advisable to perform these
processes in a protected outdoor area to ensure that the shells are blown away and not dispersed
indoors.

The wind-winnowing technique is as follows:


1. Transfer the broken beans with shells into a tray or a winnowing basket.
2. Hold the container with both hands on one side, toss the broken beans and shells into the air,
and allow them to fall back into the tray.
3. While tossing, allow the wind to carry the lighter shells away. If there is no wind stream, use a
ventilator to blow the shells in one direction.
4. The wind-winnowing technique may not completely remove all shells. Therefore, use a pair of
tweezers to remove these shells completely. Pay special attention to shells that remain attached
to the nibs and remove them.
5. Collect the winnowed nibs in a separate container.
6. Record the weight of the nibs.
7. Discard the shells.
8. Store the nibs until further use (see Section 12.4.6 ‘Storage of cacao nibs’).

The hair-dryer technique is as follows:


1. Transfer the broken beans with shells onto a flat tray in a well-ventilated area.
2. Set the hair-dryer at the coolest temperature or no-heat setting.

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 73


3. Hold the hair-dryer at a 30–45° angle at a distance of ≥15cm from the tray.
4. Gently, move the hair-dryer nozzle along the tray to maximize winnowing and remove as many
shells as possible, lightly tossing the broken material in the tray to expose it to the air stream.
5. Gradually increase the speed setting of the hair dryer, particularly towards the end of the process
when larger shells are still present.
6. Using the hair dryer for winnowing will not completely remove all shells. Use a pair of tweezers
to remove the remaining shells completely. Pay special attention to shells that remain attached
to the nibs and remove them.
7. Collect the winnowed nibs in a separate container.
8. Record the weight of the nibs.
9. Discard the shells.
10. Store the nibs until further use (see Section 12.4.6 ‘Storage of cacao nibs’).

Use of a self-made winnower with a vacuum cleaner and a ventilator (Annexes, Figure 63) is as follows:
1. Switch on the vacuum cleaner.
2. Feed the broken beans into the inlet hopper.
3. Switch on the ventilator and control the speed (high or low) as needed.
4. Repeat the process as many times as needed to remove all shells.
5. Inspect the outgoing nibs for the presence of shells.
6. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the remaining shells completely. Pay special attention to shells
that remain attached to the nibs and remove them.
7. Collect the winnowed nibs in a separate container.
8. Record the weight of the nibs.
9. Discard the shells.
10. Store the nibs until further use (see Section 12.4.6).
11. Between batches, clean and disinfect the counters, contact surfaces and tools, using a food-
grade and odourless cleaning agent or disinfectant as described in Chapter 3 on ‘Food safety
considerations’.

12.4.3 Electro-mechanical process


The procedure for breaking and winnowing cacao beans using electrical machines may vary depending
on the given equipment’s type and model. It is best to consult the manual . The general steps for using
electrical machines are presented below. Images, specifications, and procedure for two brands are
detailed in Annexes, Figure 64, Figure 65, Figure 66 and Annexes, Table 64 and Table 65.

Breaking
1. Verify the readiness of the equipment for use, ensuring that it is clean and that all its components
are properly assembled.
2. Turn on the breaker.
3. Feed the cacao beans into the inlet hopper of the breaker.
4. Tailor the speed setting (if applicable to the equipment) of the impact breaker according to the
desired size of the broken or cracked beans.
5. Collect the broken beans and place into a clean container.
6. Turn off the breaker.

74 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
Winnowing
1. Verify the readiness of the equipment for use, ensuring that it is clean and that all its components
are properly assembled.
2. Turn on the winnower.
3. Gradually introduce the broken beans into the sieving and vacuum section of the winnower.
4. Adjust the vacuum (aspiration) setting (if applicable to the equipment) of the winnower based
on the size and/or density variations within the broken beans. For instance, select a higher
aspiration setting for large nibs.
5. Collect the winnowed nibs in a separate container.
6. Discard the shells.
7. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the remaining shells completely. Pay special attention to shells
that remain attached to the nibs and remove them.
8. Combine the nibs collected in step 5.
9. Turn the equipment off.
10. Record the weight of the nibs.
11. Store the nibs until further use (see Section 12.4.6).
12. Between batches, clean and disinfect the counters, contact surfaces and tools, using a food-
grade and odourless cleaning agent or disinfectant as described in Chapter 3 on ‘Food safety
considerations’.

12.4.4 Calculation of the yield of nibs


Calculating the yield of nibs obtained from the roasted beans is crucial in estimating the quantity of
cacao mass that can be processed. The formula is presented in Figure 10, below.

Weight of the nibs free of shells (g)


Yield = x 100
Weight of roasted cacao bean (g)

Figure 10. Formula for calculating the yield of cacao nibs from roasted beans.

12.4.5 Considerations for breaking and winnowing unroasted cacao beans


When breaking and winnowing unroasted cacao beans, it is imperative to adhere to additional food
safety measures to prevent the contamination of nibs by pathogens. Some of the recommended
measures include, but are not limited to, the following:

∙ Ensure beans are thoroughly cleaned before breaking and winnowing.


∙ Follow the steps indicated in Chapter 8 ‘Physical evaluation of whole cacao beans’.
∙ Perform a thorough microbiological analysis of unroasted beans and verify that the counts are
within the acceptable limits. If the sample results exceed the acceptable limits, it is crucial to
refrain from further processing the unroasted beans for sensory evaluation. It is essential to
adhere to national regulations regarding acceptable microbiological limits in this process.
∙ Preferably, follow the manual process to avoid mixing shells with nibs.
∙ Minimise the contact between the cleaned nibs and the removed shells.
∙ Record the weight of the nibs.
∙ Store the nibs until further use (see Section 12.4.6).

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 75


12.4.6 Storage of cacao nibs
For flavour evaluation of cacao beans as mass, nibs should be processed into mass within
48 hours after winnowing. To prevent rehumidification and the absorption of odours, store the nibs
for immediate use in clean food-grade containers or a multi-layer barrier film (vacuum seal type
bags). If the nibs are to be processed into cacao mass at a later time, they should be stored at 10–16°C
(50–61°F) no longer than seven days. Before opening the container for processing into cacao mass,
allow the nibs to reach room temperature.

12.5 Documentation of data, calculations and results


The information necessary to document the breaking and winnowing process of each bean sample
is provided in Table 26. It is crucial to accurately and thoroughly describe the process to facilitate the
interpretation of sensory evaluation results for cacao mass and/or chocolate. This documentation
enables comparisons among samples and effectively communicates the conditions required for
process reproduction or repetition.

Table 26. Data to be recorded for breaking and winnowing cacao beans.

Reference sample number/ID


Date processed (dd/mm/yyyy)
Name of the person processing the beans
Total roastedbean weight before breaking and winnowing (g)
Total nib weight after breaking and winnowing (g)
Yield (%) (nib weight / roasted bean weight x 100)
Process used (manual, semi-manual or electro-mechanical)
Breaker brand and model
Winnower brand and model
Other notes on equipment used
Comments

Shawn Landersz Bioversity International

76 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 13. Processing cacao nibs into mass
C
13.1 Objective
This protocol outlines the procedure for transforming cacao nibs into cacao mass, also referred to
as cacao mass or paste, with a specific particle size. The resulting cacao mass is intended for sensory
evaluation of cacao beans in the form of cacao mass or chocolate.

The steps detailed below are specific for grinders which use tension from granite stones to apply
different grades of shear. This reduces the size of the nibs, ruptures their fat-containing cells, releases
the cacao butter and refines the particle size of the mixture between 20 and 14µm. The particle size
must not be too low, for example 10µm. This may result in a texture the texture that is overly sticky
and gooey. The liquefying process can also be facilitated by pre-grinding the nibs. This protocol also
describes how to measure the particle size of the cacao mass.

13.2 Key specifications


Table 27. Key specifications for processing cacao nibs into mass.

Parameter Specification
Minimum size of cacao nibs test sample – output of roasting, breaking and winnowing 600g
Target for final particle size of cacao mass 14–20µm
Maximum temperature for cacao mass processing 55°C (131°F)

13.3 Equipment, tools and materials


Cacao nibs
The test sample size should consist of the outcome of roasting 600g of cacao beans. This quantity
can be increased to suit specific needs such as the working capacity of available equipment and the
desired amount of cacao mass and chocolate for flavour sensory evaluation

13.3.1 Grinders
∙ Grinders, mills, melangers, and refiners have the same function. In this Guide, the term “grinder”
is used. They grind cacao nibs into cacao mass for a particle size of 20µm or less which can take
10-20 hours, without raising the temperature of the cacao mass above 55°C (131°F). See Annexes,
Figure 68, Figure 69 and Figure 70.

∙ A grinder will have a bowl or a drum with a granite bottom and a set of stones set on an axel
that can be conical or cylindrical.

∙ When necessary, a pre-grinding step can be carried out to facilitate liquefying. Examples are
shown in Annexes, Figure 71.

∙ A pre-grinder will have a bowl and blades similar to a blender or mixer.

13.3.2 Micrometer
The micrometer should meet the following specifications. See examples in Annexes, Figure 72.

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 77


∙ Analogue or digital.

∙ A measuring range 0–25µm.

∙ An accuracy 0.001µm.

∙ Flat measuring faces (see micrometer parts in Annexes, Figure 37).

13.3.3 Other tools and materials


∙ An oven with a temperature range of 35–100°C (95–212°F) including temperature control for
warming nibs, grinder bowls and stones.

∙ Food-safe, heat-resistant and odour-free containers with lids, for preheating the nibs.

∙ A non-contact infrared thermometer with a measuring range of 0–100°C (32–212°F).

∙ A scale with a capacity of 2.5–10kg with a precision of 0,1g, for weighing the grinder’s bowl and
its content, as well as cacao mass drops, cacao butter etc.

∙ An infrared thermometer with a measuring range of 0–100°C/0–212°F (refer to Annexes, Figure 73).

∙ Neutral tasting deodorised cacao butter for lubricating the grinding stones and brushing the
grinder bowl.

∙ A scraper.

∙ 2-3 spatulas.

∙ A piping bag.

∙ Parchment or baking paper (unwaxed) for producing 1-2g drops.

∙ Two heat-resistant trays, such as those used for baking.

∙ One tray of any food-safe material.

∙ Sterile containers for storing cacao mass.

∙ A refrigerator or deep-freezer for long-term storage of cacao mass.

∙ Timers.

13.4 Procedure
13.4.1 Cleaning
Before beginning, ensure that all working surfaces, tools, and equipment are thoroughly cleaned
and disinfected, with the exception of the inside of the grinder's bowl and stones. Porous granite
stones have the potential to retain soap and disinfectant, which may contaminate the cacao mass
during processing. Cleaning the stones with hot water alone is recommended (refer to Section 13.4.6
‘Considerations for cleaning the grinders’ for further details).

Measure the weight of the cacao nibs to be ground for each sample, as well as the weight of each
grinding bowl and stone.

13.4.2 Pre-grinding (optional)


The nibs should be pre-ground to a size of approximately 500µm (0.5mm). The pre-grinding step is
employed when loading the nibs gradually into the grinder becomes inconvenient. Pre-grinding the nibs
enables loading them into the grinder all at once. However, it should be noted that pre-grinding necessitates
additional time for equipment cleaning, and there may be some product loss during the process.

78 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
Various equipment options for pre-grinding cacao nibs are available. Examples of such equipment
are presented in Annexes, specifically in Figure 71.

Below are the steps for a coffee-type grinder (Annexes, Figure 71a):

1. Pour approximately 50g of cacao nibs into the grinder.


2. Grind the nibs to approximately 0.5mm (500µm), which will yield a coarse powder.
3. Transfer the coarse powder into a clean bowl.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3, adding 50g at a time, until all the nibs are ground.
5. Measure the time required for pre-grinding and record the data.

13.4.3 Pre-heating the cacao nibs and grinding equipment


Before starting, it is recommended to warm the nibs, grinder bowl, and stones to ensure smooth
rolling of the stones and prevent them from sticking, as well as to avoid overheating of the motor.
This can be achieved by following the steps below, using an oven:

1. Set the oven to 40–45°C (104–113°F).

2. Pour the nibs into a food-safe, heat-resistant and odour-free container and close the lid tightly.
This protects the nibs from losing aroma volatiles and picking up odours that may be present
in the oven during the preheating.
3. Transfer the container with the nibs, together with the bowl and grinding stones (placed on a
tray), inside the oven.
4. Allow from two to four hours to heat the nibs, bowl and grinding stones to reach a temperature
of 40–45°C (104–113°F).

13.4.4 Grinding
1. Using a brush and melted deodorised cacao butter, lubricate the surface and the centre axel of
the grinding stones. For cacao mass with high fat content the use of cacao butter to lubricate
the grinding stones is an option.
2. Switch on the grinder.
3. Record the time that the grinding starts.
4. While the drum is running, add 40–50g of nibs (approximately one cup) at a time between the
stones.
5. Add the next portion of nibs once the previous portion has started to liquefy, and repeat this
process until all the nibs have been added. Close the lid between each pouring of nibs. Each
interval typically takes between 2 to 5 minutes, and the entire process can take approximately
10-15 minutes for 600g of nibs, depending on the fermentation and fat content of the beans.
6. While pouring the nibs, it may be necessary to occasionally pause the process and use a spatula
to unblock any accumulated nibs and mass.
7. Regularly monitor the temperature of the milling mass using an infrared thermometer, at intervals
of every half hour during the initial 2 hours. The temperature should be maintained below 55°C
(131°F). If the temperature exceeds 55°C (131°F), you can take the following measures to cool
down the milling mass: ventilate the room, place a fan towards the grinder, or temporarily turn
off the grinder.

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 79


8. Once the mass is at a stage where there are no visible coarse particles, regularly check the
particle size of the cacao mass using a micrometer. For detailed instructions on the use of a
micrometer and interpretation of a scale reading, refer to Annex 10.
9. When the cacao mass reaches the targeted particle size of 20µm or down to 14µm, turn the
grinder off.

10. Record the final particle size.

11. Record the time that the grinding ends.


12. If you are not further processing the cacao mass into chocolate, proceed with pouring
and storing immediately to avoid the cacao mass from solidifying in the grinder bowl
(see Section 13.4.5 'Pouring and storing cacao mass’ below).
13. Weigh the final poured cacao mass and record the data.

NOTE: The frequency of scraping, measuring temperature and measuring particle size will depend on the amount
of cacao mass, and the equipment used, among other factors. It is recommended to start every hour and adjust.

13.4.5 Pouring and storing cacao mass


The cacao mass can be immediately poured into sterile containers and stored either as a single solid block
or portioned into 1-2g drops. It is recommended to use drops if they are intended to be used within the
next six months. Moreover, drops are convenient for sensory evaluation as they are already individually
portioned. To minimise any potential bias in visual appearance during evaluation, it is advisable to follow a
standardised method for creating the cacao mass drops of equal size. For instance, one can utilise chocolate
moulds with cavities of 1-2g or a stainless steel tray with standard holes suitable for 1-2g of cacao mass.

For cacao mass stored in containers as solid mass, pour the cacao mass from the grinder bowl into the
containers. Scrape the sides and stones to remove all the cacao mass.

Cover the containers while allowing to cool to room temperature. If the room temperature exceeds 23°C
(73.4°F), use an odour-free cooling cabinet or fridge. Make sure that the cacao mass begins to solidify
within 15–20min after liquefying, in order to avoid stratification and to obtain a homogeneous sample.
Since the cacao mass is not tempered, the solidified mass may not have a shiny appearance, i.e., white
spots may develop.

NOTE: Stratified cacao mass samples look whitish at the top,and increasingly dark at the bottom of the container.
Stratification occurs when the cooling speed of warm cacao mass is slow before it solidifies. The cacao butter remains
liquid longer allowing the tiny solid particles to sediment. Sedimentation increases the concentration of solids at the
bottom. As a consequence, the composition and the flavour are not homogeneous in the sample. If stratification
has occurred, remelt the cacao mass, mix well to homogenize it, and immediately resolidify the mass properly.

Once solidified into a block, it can be taken out of the mould or container and put into a vacuum-sealed bag.

For storage, the cacao mass must be placed in sealed containers (blocks or jars) to avoid absorption of
extraneous odours and/or loss of volatiles. For storage of more than one year, store in a deep freezer at
-18°C (-0.4°F). If to be stored for less than one year, store in a refrigerator or in a dark place where the
temperature is lower than 20°C (68°F).

All stored cacao mass, whether for short or long-term, must be labelled with a unique ID code that links
it to all associated data..

80 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
When removing a sample from a deep freezer or refrigerator, leave the sample in the container sealed
until the mass has come to room temperature in order to avoid moisture condensation in the cacao
mass.

Steps for portioning cacao mass into 1-2g drops (see Figure 11 below):
1. Place a sheet of unwaxed parchment paper onto a tray.

2. Place the tray on the scales and tare it.

3. Fill a piping bag with warm cacao mass resulting from of the grinding process and cut the tip off.

4. Pipe a 1–2g droplet of cacao mass onto the parchment paper, guided by the weight indication
on the scales. An alternative to using a piping bag is to use two teaspoons to take 1–2g portions
of the mass and place them on the tray.

5. Repeat until the whole parchment paper surface is covered with cacao mass drops in
parallel rows.

6. Allow the drops to cool to room temperature until the pieces solidify.

7. As these are not tempered, they will naturally not have a shiny appearance and spots will develop.

8. Wearing gloves, detach the cacao mass drops from the parchment paper into a sealed container
or vacuum-sealed bag. Care must be taken in order to avoid crushing of the drops.

a) b)

Figure 11. Producing cacao mass drops in portion size: a) piped drops on the parchment paper b) detaching drops after solidifying
(Bioversity International, Alvarado, 2019).

13.4.6 Considerations for cleaning the grinder


∙ Clean the grinder’s bowls and stones using only hot water (50–70°C or 122–158°F).

∙ Do not use soap or disinfectant as granite has porosity that can trap soap and disinfectant and
release it into the next batch of cacao mass.

∙ After washing with hot water only, dry the grinder bowl and stones in a warming oven at
40°C (104°F).

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 81


13.5 Documentation of data, calculations and results
The information required to document the grinding process for each bean sample is presented in
Table 28 below. It is crucial to provide an accurate and detailed description of the grinding process.
This documentation is essential for interpreting the sensory evaluation results of the cacao mass
and/or chocolate, making comparisons between samples, and effectively communicating the precise
grinding conditions for the purpose of reproduction or repetition.

Table 28. Data to be recorded for grinding cacao nibs into mass.

Reference sample number/ID


Date processed (dd/mm/yyyy)
Name of the person processing the sample
Weight of the cacao nibs (g)
Net weight of the cacao mass (g)
Final cacao mass particle size (µm)
Total refining time (hours:minutes)
Maximum temperature reached during process (°C)
Pregrinder brand and model, if used
Grinder type, brand and model
Storage conditions of cacao mass (°C)
Final shape of cacao mass (drops/single solid masses)
Comments

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

82 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 14. Processing cacao mass into dark
chocolate
C
14.1 Objective
This protocol provides a detailed procedure for processing cacao mass into dark chocolate, specifically
for sensory evaluation purposes, using a standardised recipe. The objective is to establish a consistent
method for blending ingredients and refining the mixture to create a dark chocolate that captures
the intrinsic flavours of the cacao beans. While the protocol is not designed for commercial chocolate
production, its principles can be applied. This protocol refers to cacao mass processed according to
the protocol described in Chapter 13 ‘Processing cacao nibs into mass’.

14.2 Key specifications


Table 29. Key specifications for processing cacao mass into dark chocolate.

Parameter Specification
Target for the final particle size of the chocolate ≤18­µm
Maximum temperature for chocolate processing 55°C (131°F)
% of cacao mass 63
% of cacao butter 7
% of sugar 30
Total % cacao 70

14.3 Equipment, tools and materials


14.3.1 Ingredients
The ingredients required for processing cacao mass into chocolate are as follows:

Melted cacao mass


The cacao mass should be melted at a temperature of approximately. 40-45°C (104-113°F) and have
a particle size of 14–20µm. The required amount will vary depending on the equipment capacity and
the number of panel members involved in the sensory evaluation.

Deodorised cacao butter


This ingredient is added to enhance the flow of the cacao mass during processing. Use deodorised
cacao butter of pressed, expelled, or refined quality grades. Ensure compliance with national regulations
regarding the identity standards for cacao butter, as these may vary by country. In the absence of
specific regulations, refer to Codex Stan 86-1981, Standard for Cocoa Butter (Table 30 below), to verify
the product specifications provided in the technical sheet or product label.

Table 30. Standard for cacao butter as provided by Codex Stan 86-1981.

Free fatty acids ≤1.75% (weight)


Unsaponifiable matter ≤0.70% (weight), except in the case of pressed cacao butter, which shall be ≤0.35% (weight)
Hexane ≤1 mg/kg, excluding press cacao butter
Moisture content ≤0.1% (weight)

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 83


Sugar
White sugar with a neutral taste is added to provide sweetness and balance the bitterness of the cacao
mass. Its neutral taste is to ensure that the only flavour flavour of the chocolate is from the cacao mass.

Quality of ingredients

The quality of ingredients must be inspected before use, considering the following criteria:

∙ Safety and absence of contaminants: All ingredients must meet the minimum food safety
standards to minimise biological, chemical, and physical hazards.
∙ Proper labelling: To ensure compliance with food and ingredient labelling regulations, including
proper allergen declaration.
∙ Functionality: Check the information regarding ingredient use and functionality, especially if it
affects the processing of the ingredients.
∙ Absence of any flavours: This is to ensure that the sensory evaluation is focused on the flavours
of the cacao mass and not on the ingredients.

To assess the flavour neutrality of the cacao butter, follow these steps:

∙ Melt the cacao butter.


∙ Taste the melted cacao butter to check for any atypical or off-flavours.

Ensure that the cacao butter tastes clean without any undesirable flavours. Note that non-deodorised
cacao butter naturally has a sweet chocolate aroma due to the presence of 2,3-Butanediol. However,
this compound should not be present in the cacao butter being assessed, which is why deodorised
cacao butter is used. Pay attention to any atypical or off-flavours in the cacao butter, such as mouldy,
rancid, rubbery, roasted, or green flavours, as they indicate a deviation from the desired neutrality.

To assess the flavour neutrality of the sugar, follow these steps:

∙ Preheat the oven to either 50°C (122°F) or 65°C (149°F).


∙ Weigh 50g of sugar into a glass jar.
∙ Close the jar tightly.
∙ Place the jar in the preheated oven for one hour at 50°C (122°F) or for 20 minutes at 65°C (149°F).
∙ After the designated time, remove the jar from the oven.
∙ Open the jar and assess the odour that comes out. Stand close enough to perceive the aroma
but maintain a safe distance to avoid burning.

The sugar should have a very light, sweet scent with only subtle hints of brown sugar or caramel notes.

Detect any off odours, such as vegetative, rotten vegetation, or fermented sugar notes. If any off
odours are detected, the sugar should not be used, and an alternative source or batch should be
assessed for flavour neutrality.

14.3.2 Mixing equipment


The following equipment and tools are required for the mixing process:

∙ Grinders: The grinders should be capable of mixing the ingredients and refining the particle size
to 18µm without raising the temperature above 55°C (131°F) during the process. Examples of
suitable grinders can be found in Annexes, Figure 68 and Figure 69. Other grinding equipment can
be used as long as it is food-safe, achieves the target particle size, and adheres to the specified
processing time and temperature limits.

84 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
∙ Micrometer: An analogue or digital micrometer (Annexes, Figure 72) with a measuring range of
0–25mm and a resolution of 0.001mm. It should have flat measuring anvil faces (refer to Annex 10).
∙ Infrared thermometer: An infrared thermometer with a measuring range of 0–100°C/32–212°F
(refer to Annexes, Figure 73).
∙ Scales: Scales with a capacity to weigh 1–8000g and a resolution of 0.1g.
∙ Bowls: Three to four bowls are needed to weigh each ingredient separately.
∙ Spoons: Two to three spoons are required to serve the ingredients separately.
∙ Knife and cutting board: These are necessary for cutting portions of cacao mass blocks.
∙ Oven: An oven with a temperature range of 45–100°C (113–212°F).
∙ Plastic scraper or spatula: Used for scraping and transferring the mixture.
∙ Cleaning agent and disinfectant: These are essential for maintaining cleanliness and ensuring
proper hygiene during the process.

14.3.3 Additional equipment for tempering


∙ Moulds of polycarbonate, PVC or silicon with cavities for thin chocolate bars, approx. 3–5g moulds.
∙ A cooling cabinet or fridge set up at 13–16°C (55.4–60.8°F).

For manual tempering


∙ A digital thermometer with a measuring range of 20–60°C/68–140°F (see Figure 78) with either
a probe or infrared function.

∙ Well-tempered deodorised cacao butter (only for the seeding method) should exhibit certain
visual characteristics to ensure it is properly tempered. It should be in a solid state, displaying a
uniform appearance without any white spots on the surface. Additionally, when broken, it should
produce a distinct and clear snap sound. Refer to Figure 83 for a visual reference.

∙ Heating equipment such as a warming oven with capacity to maintain a temperature of 40°C
(104°F) or a microwave.
∙ Cooling equipment or tools such as:
» A marble slab of at least 2cm in width (Figure 76) with a working environment of 18-20°C
(64-68°F).
» A cooling cabinet or fridge set operating at a temperature range of 13–16°C (55.4–61°F).
∙ Other tools and materials:
» A grater.
» A thermoresistant plastic spatula (Figure 79a).
» A heat gun (Figure 80).
» A ladle or piping bags.
» Non-stick, unwaxed baking paper.
» Paper towels.

For machine tempering:


There are several options available for tempering machines, which vary in price, capacity, cooling and
heating mechanisms, as well as the continuous or batch system they use and the way the chocolate
is kept flowing.

The specific choice of tempering machine depends on the user's needs and available resources.

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 85


This protocol covers two types of tempering machines:

∙ Fully-automatic machines: These machines can run a complete tempering program and provide a
signal, either through sound or visual cues, to indicate when the chocolate is ready (see Figure 82).

∙ Semi-automatic machines: These machines feature a chocolate bowl with automatic stirring
and temperature control, where the user needs to manually set each temperature (see Figure 81).

14.4 Procedure
14.4.1 Recipe
Cacao of Excellence used a standard recipe of 66% cacao content since its first Awards Edition in 2009
until 2021. Recently, Cacao of Excellence revised it recipe based on the flavour profile of thediverse
beans samples from over 55 countries andtaking into account market trends.it’s the updated recipe
for the 2023 Cacao of Excellence Awards Edition is. Table 31 below details the standard recipe used
now by Cacao of Excellence for processing beans into cacao mass and dark chocolate with 70% cacao
content for the purpose of sensory evaluation.

Table 31. Standard recipe used by Cacao of Excellence to process cacao mass into chocolate for the sensory evaluation
of cacao beans.

Ingredients Composition
Cacao mass 63%
Sugar (flavour-neutral) 30%
Deodorised cacao butter 7%
Total 100%
Cacao content (cacao mass + cacao butter) 70%
Ratio of cacao mass to sugar (cacao mass/sugar) 2.1%
Fineness – particle size 14–18µm

14.4.2 Preparing the cacao mass


To prepare the cacao mass, follow the steps outlined below.

1. Clean and disinfect all tools and working surfaces.

2. Retrieve the cacao mass from storage and allow it to reach room temperature. To prevent
condensation, keep the cacao mass samples inside their packaging or jars while they come to
room temperature. If the cacao mass samples are large and have been frozen, gradually thaw
them by first placing them in the fridge and then at room temperature.

3. Heat the drum and stones of the grinder in a heating oven at 40–45°C (104–113°F) for at least
1 hour.

4. Place the hardened cacao mass on a cutting board and use a knife to cut it into small pieces.

14.4.3 Producing the chocolate


The key stages involved in producing chocolate are the mixing and refining processes, aimed at
achieving the desired particle size of 14-18µm.

The cacao mass, cacao butter, and sugar are carefully combined. The mixing occurs at temperatures
below 55°C (131°F), ensuring the ingredients are well blended without surpassing this temperature limit.

86 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
The chocolate mixture is grounded, to reduce the particle size to a range of 14-18µm. This refining
process contributes to the overall texture and smoothness of the chocolate, allowing for enhanced
sensory evaluation.

Process
1. Ensure that all tools and working surfaces are cleaned and disinfected.

2. Weigh the cacao mass, cacao butter, and sugar in separate bowls.

3. Melt the cacao butter in the oven at a temperature of 40–45°C (104–113°F), and set it aside until
it is needed.

4. Start the grinder and add the melted cacao mass into the drum, allowing it to run for 2–5 minutes.

5. While the grinder is in running, carefully pour the sugar into the cacao mass in a consistent manner.

6. After the initial 30-45 minutes of grinding, use a spatula to scrape the chocolate from the
interior surfaces of the drum, as well as the stones and scraper, and incorporate it back into
the chocolate mass.

7. Every 2–3 hours, perform the following checks:

» Monitor the temperature of the chocolate mass, ensuring it remains below 55°C (131°F). If the
temperature exceeds this limit, turn off the grinder for approximately one hour or until the
temperature drops below the threshold before continuing the process.

» Assess the consistency of the chocolate mass, which should maintain a fluid state. If the mass
thickens during the process, as indicated by a decrease in rotation speed of the grinding stones,
add one-third of the cacao butter to the mixture by pouring it onto the stones. This allows
for immediate distribution into the chocolate mass, ultimately restoring its fluidity. Repeat
this adjustment as necessary until all the cacao butter has been added to the chocolate mass.

» Measure the particle size of the chocolate mass using a micrometer, following the instructions
outlined in Annex 10. Monitor the decrease in particle size until it reaches the desired range of
14-18µm, when the refining process is nearly complete. At this stage, it is advisable to check
the particle size more frequently, approximately every hour.

8. Once the particle size of the chocolate reaches the desired fineness of 18µm, stop the grinder.

9. Remove the stones along with their axle from the grinder, and scrape all the chocolate from
the sides of the stones and the centre axle into the drum. Exercise caution not to scrape any
gritty or dry solids, as these may be particles that did not achieve the target particle size. These
parts should be discarded. Set aside the stones with the axle for cleaning.

10. Transfer the liquid chocolate into a bowl in order to proceed with the tempering and moulding
process (refer to Sections 14.4.4 and 14.4.5 below).

NOTE: The time needed to complete the chocolate-making process usually depends on the following factors:
• Amount of chocolate mixture (longer time needed for larger volumes).
• Chocolate recipe chosen (proportion of ingredients).
• Composition of the cacao mass (cacao butter content).
• Efficiency of the grinder (technical specifications).
• Grinding temperature (the higher the better without exceeding 55°C– 131°F).

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 87


The chocolate making process can take at least ten hours, depending on the quantity being produced.
For instance, when mixing and refining 500g of chocolate to a particle size of 18µm using a grinder
with a capacity of 250–1000g, it can take anywhere from eight to twelve hours.

It is critical that during the chocolate making process and the grinders are never left unattended.
If the grinding operation needs to extend beyond regular working hours, the machines should
not be left running without supervision. Unlike grinding cacao nibs into a mass, where the
temperature typically rises only at the beginning, the addition of sugar to the cacao mass
during the chocolate processing increases its viscosity, and consequently, the temperature
can exceed the recommended limit of 55°C (131°F). To mitigate this, cacao butter is added to
reduce viscosity and, in turn, lower the temperature. However, this process must be closely
supervised, as the risk of the temperature surpassing the recommended maximum can result
in damage to the mass and flavour, as well as pose a fire hazard.

In the event that the process needs to be interrupted, place the drum containing the chocolate,
covered with a lid or plastic wrap, into an oven set at 40°C (104°F) until it is ready for grinding
again. This ensures that the mixture remains warm and in a liquid state, enabling the process
to resume promptly the following day.

14.4.4 Tempering the chocolate


There are various methods to temper chocolate, involving precise temperature manipulation during
the crystallisation process of cacao butter. Cacao butter serves as the food matrix in chocolate,
suspending sugar and cacao solids. This fat can crystallise in six different forms (I - VI). Among these
forms, the presence of tiny crystals of type V is desirable in the melted chocolate, as it maintains a fluid
consistency. A properly tempered chocolate should always remain fluid without any crystallised lumps.

The ideal room temperature for chocolate tempering is approximately 20°C (68°F), with a relative
humidity of 40%.

Tempering chocolate by hand following the seeding method


Tempering chocolate by hand using the seeding method involves melting the chocolate mass to a
specific temperature and introducing the desired crystal type V, found in cacao butter, into the melted
mass. This seeding process stimulates the replication of the type V crystals throughout the mass,
ensuring a uniform distribution. The following steps outline the process:

∙ Transfer the chocolate mass from the grinder drum into a bowl. If the chocolate is in solid form,
chop it into pieces and place them in the bowl. Proceed to heat the chocolate mass to 45°C (113°F)
to melt all types of crystals.

∙ Grate the solid, well-tempered cacao butter fine. The amount needed is equal to 0.5% of the
total chocolate mass to be tempered.

1. Cool the heated chocolate mass from 45°C (113°F) to 32.5 °C (90.5°F), choosing one of the following
methods:

88 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
b. Pour a portion of the chocolate mass onto a marble slab to cool it, and then mix it with the
remaining warm chocolate. Practice is required to determine the right timing and amount for
specific conditions. Take the temperature measurement when mixed with the warm chocolate.

c. Continuously mix the chocolate mass at room temperature (around 20°C or 68°F) until it reaches
32.5°C (90.5°F).

d. Place the bowl containing the chocolate mass in the refrigerator for a few minutes, then remove
it and mix well until the mass reaches 32.5°C (90.5°F).

2. Add the grated, well-tempered cacao butter, which should be 0.5% of the weight of the chocolate
mass.

3. Stir the mixture continuously for 1 minute, ensuring that all lumps are thoroughly eliminated.

4. Proceed to mould the chocolate immediately.

NOTE: It is not recommended to use a hot water bath for heating the chocolate mass, as it would increase the
relative humidity in the room. If necesary, follow the recommendations in Figure 74.

Tempering chocolate with a machine


Refer to the user's manual of the chosen tempering machine and follow the instructions to set up a
tempering program suitable for dark chocolate. The specific settings will vary depending on the machine.

To ensure the optimal temperature for the tempering machine, perform a temperature testing method
using pieces of thick paper dipped in chocolate.

The steps are as follows:

∙ Melt the chocolate in a bowl at 45°C (122°F).

∙ Cut 20 small strips of thick paper and write temperatures ranging from 29°C to 32°C (84°F to 90°F)
in increments of 0.2°C (0.4°F) on each strip. You should have a total of 16 paper strips.

∙ Transfer the melted chocolate at 45°C (122°F) into the tempering machine.

∙ Set the cooling temperature on the machine to 29°C (84°F).

∙ When the cooling temperature display reaches 32°C (90°F), dip the end of the first paper strip
marked 32°C (90°F) into the chocolate and set it aside.

∙ When the temperature screen shows 31.8°C (89°F), repeat the process for each subsequent
0.2°C (0.4°F) decrease in temperature until you have 16 strips of chocolate samples with their
recorded temperature.

∙ Set the machine to heat to 45°C (113°F) to prevent solidification of the chocolate.

∙ Allow the strips of chocolate samples to set at room temperature (about 20°C [68°F] for 30 minutes).

∙ Examine the paper strips and identify the one on which the chocolate has set with the most
glossy/shiny appearance. This specific temperature should be programmed into the tempering
machine for the particular chocolate being tested.

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 89


14.4.5 Moulding of chocolate
Moulding
1. Keep the moulds at room temperature (warm) and place them on the working surface.

2. Fill the piping bag with the tempered chocolate and cut the tip off or use the ladle, a piping bag
will ensure more precision and less loss of chocolate mass.

3. Pipe the chocolate into each cavity of the moulds.

4. After filling the moulds with chocolate, to ensure even distribution and remove any air bubbles,
gently tap the moulds on the working surface to vibrate them. This tapping action helps evenly
spread the chocolate in the cavities of the moulds and eliminates any trapped air bubbles.

5. Place the moulds inside a fridge at 4-8°C (39-46°F) for 10 minutes or a cooling cabinet with a
temperature of 13-16°C (55-61°F) for a maximum of 30 minutes. This will depend on bar thickness
and the humidity of the environment. Do not leave in the cooling cabinet or fridge longer than
the times mentioned as this can lead to water condensation on the surface of the chocolate.

6. When chocolate pieces (bars) become loose from the mould cavity, remove the moulds from
the cooling cabinet or fridge.

7. To unmould the bars, first crack the mould and turn it over on a clean surface in one decisive
and rapid movement.

8. It is advisable to wear gloves when handling the chocolate bars to prevent them from melting,
fingerprints and maintain food safety.

9. After unmoulding, place the chocolate bars in a suitable storage container or pack them in
sealed bags to ensure freshness and proper storage.

Cutting shapes without moulds


1. Prepare a tray or tablet by placing a sheet of baking paper on it.

2. Pour the tempered chocolate directly from the bowl onto the baking paper, spreading it to
create a layer with a thickness of about 3mm.

3. Transfer the tray or tablet to a cooling cabinet set up at 13-16°C (55-61°F) or a fridge with a 4-8°C
(39-46°F) temperature range.

4. Monitor the chocolate's appearance as it transitions from shiny to a satin-like texture, but has
not fully solidified. Once it has reached this desired appearance, take the tray or tablet out of
the cooling cabinet or fridge and cut the chocolate into squares of the desired size. Place them
back into the fridge or cooling

5. When the chocolate squares have solidified, remove the tray or tablet from the cooling cabinet
or fridge.

6. Wear gloves to handle the chocolate bars, ensuring they don't melt and maintaining food safety.
Carefully detach the chocolate pieces from the baking paper.

7. Place the chocolate pieces in a suitable storage container or pack them in sealed bags to maintain
freshness and proper storage.

90 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


C
14.5 Documentation of data, calculations and results

Table 32. Data to be recorded for the chocolate-making process.

Reference cacao bean sample number/ID


Date processed into chocolate (dd/mm/yyyy)
Name of the person processing the sample

Recipe used - Ingredients Proportion (%) Weight (kg)


Cacao mass
Deodorised cacao butter
Sugar
Type of sugar – sugar cane, beetroot, etc,.
Total amount of recipe 100%
Total weight of chocolate produced (g)
Total grinding time to reach the target particle size (hh:mm)
Final particle size (µm)
Maximum temperature reached during the mixing and refining process (°C or °F)
Deodorised cacao butter information
Sugar description
Comments
Date of tempering
Storage temperature

Barry Callebaut

Part C | Processing cacao bean samples 91


Dolores Alvarado Bioversity International
D

PART D | SENSORY EVALUATION


Chapter 15. Introduction

This section outlines the protocols for conducting sensory evaluation of cacao beans, whether in the
form of unroasted beans coarse powder or processed into cacao mass and dark chocolate.

Key considerations encompass the selection and conduct of sensory evaluation panel members and
individual assessors, appropriate facilities and environment, cacao-related sample preparation, serving
methods, and the sensory evaluation process.

The outcomes of the sensory evaluation are presented as flavour profiles for each cacao sample, along
with a global quality score. To facilitate accurate interpretation of flavour characteristics, a glossary
of terms is provided, which includes descriptors and scales for flavour intensity. These are based on
the Cacao of Excellence Glossary of Terms that includes the description of the flavour attributes and
intensity scale and the global quality score and the Flavour Wheel. The sensory evaluation results
should be documented using the evaluation form as well as the conditions under which the evaluations
took place.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 93


Ch 16. General guidelines for sensory evaluation
16.1 Objective
The objectives of this section are to provide guidance and promote the effective implementation of
best practices and principles for sensory evaluation in assessing the quality and flavour of fermented
and dried cacao beans. This applies to unroasted cacao beans, cacao mass, and dark chocolate. The
section covers the following key areas:

∙ Sensory evaluation facilities and environment.

∙ Preparation of cacao beans, mass, and chocolate for sensory evaluation.

∙ Guidelines for sensory evaluation assessors.

The details of the sensory evaluation procedures, such as numbering, coding, and sample setup, are
outlined. Reliable and consistent sensory data generated through these practices are essential for
obtaining accurate and meaningful insights into the evaluated cacao products.

16.2 Sensory evaluation facility and environment


When choosing or designing a sensory evaluation facility, the following elements should be considered:

∙ A location that is accessible and free from noise and odours.


∙ A construction that pays attention to wall colour, and lighting fixtures as well as the quality
of construction.
∙ An internal layout that allows for the privacy of assessors and enables a smooth flow of samples
and communication of data.
∙ An environment that provides good ventilation, a comfortable room temperature and
relative humidity.

In most cases, the layout of a sensory evaluation facility is divided into three main areas: sample
preparation, sample tasting, and offices/administration. The sample preparation area serves as a
temporary storage space for cacao samples, where they can be prepared (e.g., melted) and organised
along with other necessary materials. The tasting area is where assessors conduct individual evaluations
without interruptions or distractions, or engage in group discussions for consensus evaluations. These
areas should be located in close proximity to facilitate the serving of samples, while also ensuring
sufficient separation to minimise potential interference. Assessors should enter and exit the tasting
area without passing through the preparation area to avoid access to information that may bias their
evaluation. For reference, Figure 12 provides an example layout of such a facility.

The following additional facilities can be considered:

∙ Storage rooms for supplies.


∙ Cold storages for cacao samples.
∙ Offices and classrooms.
∙ Changing room and toilets.

16.2.1 Area for the preparation of the cacao-related samples


Before evaluating cacao-related samples, it is important to plan and prepare the number of assessors,
the number of samples to be evaluated and the sample serving order. These considerations help
ensure a well-organised and systematic evaluation process.

94 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Changing
D
room Oven Oven Oven Oven
Grinding, tempering
and moulding room

Roasting, breaking and,


winnowing room
Cold
storage Sample preparation
room for sensory Warming
oven
Breaking Winnowing evaluation

Storage Sensory evaluation room

Cacao bean reception and


physical evaluation room

Figure 12. Example of a sensory evaluation facility: Layout of the Cacao of Excellence laboratory in Rome, Italy.

The key features of an ideal sample preparation area are as follows:

1. Physically separated from the sensory evaluation area: While the sample preparation and
sensory evaluation areas should be adjacent to each other to facilitate the transfer and serving
of samples to the assessors, it is ideal to keep a physical barrier between them. This is important
as it:

∙ Prevents the risk of information leakage (e.g. identity of the samples to be evaluated) that
can lead to bias.
∙ Minimises potential distractions from the sample preparation area (e.g. external noise or
odours) that can affect the manner assessors evaluate the samples.

2. Kitchen-style layout: The area should include a sink, stove, refrigerator, freezer and storage
cabinets. Sample storage space will be needed for the refrigeration and freezing of cacao mass
and chocolate, storage cabinets for utensils, serving containers, spittoons, documents and other
materials used for sample preparation and sensory evaluation. In addition, the area will need
sufficient counter top space for sample preparation and serving arrangements. The design and
construction of the area, including the placement of fixed equipment, should support ease of
cleaning and maintenance.

3. Availability of appropriate equipment and facilities: The area should support the minimum
technical requirements for equipment and tools as specified in this guide, such as:

∙ Outlets for connecting to electrical appliances and devices such as grinders, blenders and
heating equipment.
∙ Refrigerators to store cacao beans, cacao mass, and chocolate samples, especially when the
room temperature exceeds 22°C (72°F) for immediate or short-term storage (less than one
year). Freezers should be utilised for longer-term storage exceeding one year.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 95


∙ An adequate ventilation system with air filters and fume exhausts for the preparation of
products with aromatic properties.

∙ An adequate clean water supply.

∙ Installed garbage disposals and trash cans.

Storage cabinets Storage cabinets Pantry


Oven Refrigerator/
freezer

Sink
Trash cans

Cooktop

Table

Pantry

Figure 13. Example of layout for sample preparation similar to a kitchen environment.

16.2.2 Area for performing sensory evaluations


The sensory evaluation area should be designed to minimise biases, enhance assessor sensitivity, and
eliminate external influences to ensure evaluations are performed in a quiet, uninterrupted environment.

The key features of an ideal sensory evaluation area are as follows:

∙ Convenient and central location to accommodate an adequate number of participants.

∙ Isolated from sources of odours and noises to prevent distractions. Cleaning products used in
the area, particularly in the sample preparation and tasting areas, should be odour-free.

∙ Effective ventilation and airflow, with the inclusion of activated carbon filters in the ventilation
system or air conditioner to absorb odours. If necessary, a slight positive air pressure can be
created in the tasting area to minimise the inflow of air from other areas.

∙ Simple furnishings and neutral colour schemes, such as off-white and light neutral grey, to minimise
distractions and maintain assessor focus. Countertops should be smooth, non-absorbent, and
easy to clean.

∙ Sufficient lighting in the sample preparation and tasting areas, with shadow-free illumination
equivalent to office lighting intensity levels of 300-500lux and 700-800lux at the table surface.

∙ Availability of a signalling communication system, such as the use of coloured light bulbs operated
by a switch, to facilitate communication among assessors.

∙ Maintain a comfortable relative humidity of 45–55% and a temperature ranging from 20–22°C
(68–72°F) within the sensory evaluation area.

∙ Provide spacious tasting areas with approximately one metre squared (1m2) of space per person
to accommodate assessors, test and reference samples, as well as data entry systems.

96 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


D
∙ Provide individual seating areas, booths, or partitions in the tasting areas to prevent assessors
from influencing or interrupting each other. If possible, physically separate the assessors by
placing tables with movable partitions made of non-resinous wood or plywood, painted with
low-odour water-based paint in a neutral colour (see Figure 14). Use opaque, non-reflective
dividers between individual booths that are easy to clean. Ideally, the dividers should extend
about 46cm (18in) beyond the countertop to minimise auditory and visual distractions. While
privacy is important, ensure adequate ventilation and space for cleaning.

∙ Consider permanent individual booth partitions equipped with electrical outlets for computerised
data entry systems and necessary electrical appliances. Each booth should have controlled lighting
and a serving hatch connecting to the sample preparation area. The number of booths depends
on available space, typically ranging from 3 to 25.

∙ Sinks are not recommended in the sensory evaluation area to avoid odour contamination, and
spittoons or dedicated cups should be provided.

∙ Furnish the area with comfortable chairs and tables at appropriate heights, allowing sufficient
space for evaluating samples and using any necessary devices such as computers and keyboards

∙ Include a separate discussion area for briefings, discussions, or consensus-building exercises.


Equip this area with tools such as blackboards or whiteboards, odour-neutral markers, papers,
and visual aids.

NOTE: All edges are butt cut unless noted Mitter edges

Hinge on front Hinge on back Hinge


Hinge
3/8"
2'− 0" Plywood 2'− 0"
sheets

2'− 0" 2'− 0" 2'− 0" 2'− 0"

FRONT VIEW TOP VIEW


Panels NOT folded Panels folded

Figure 14. (Top) Sensory areas equipped with tables and movable partitions constructed from non-resinous wood or plywood painted
with neutral colours. (Bottom) Example of a construction layout for portable sensory booths. (Alejandro Anzueto/Universidad del
Valle de Guatemala; https://thelabinthebag.com and Lawless and Heymann, 2010).

Part D | Sensory evaluation 97


thelabinthebag.com

a) b)

Figure 15. a) Fixed sensory evaluation booths that are individualised and limit interactions between assessors; b) Sample layout
for a single, fixed sensory evaluation booth. (Alejandro Anzueto/Universidad del Valle de Guatemala and ISO 8589:2007).

16.3 Preparation of samples, serving, and sensory evaluation


Standardisation is crucial when preparing, serving, and evaluating samples. It ensures consistent and
reliable results. To achieve standardisation:

∙ Prepare all samples under the same conditions, using the same location, person, and utensils.
∙ Store samples in identical storage equipment, such as refrigerators, freezers, or storage cabinets.
∙ Ensure that samples have uniform visual appearance, size, shape, and serving temperature during
evaluation to minimise biases.
∙ Use identical tools for serving samples to avoid influencing sensory attributes. For instance,
when evaluating cacao mass, use odour-neutral cups with lids to preserve aromas and prevent
external odours from interfering.
∙ Maintain an equal number of samples per session for all assessors for consistency.

16.3.1 Palate cleansing between samples


In a sensory evaluation session, multiple samples are often tasted. While water aids in removing
residual materials from the tongue after tasting a sample, palate cleansers are utilised to thoroughly
cleanse and neutralise the oral cavity. This process eliminates lingering flavours and residues in the
mouth, ensuring that there is no flavour overlap, particularly when evaluating samples with diverse
flavour profiles.

To cleanse the palate between tasting cacao mass or chocolate samples, the proceeding steps can
be followed:

1. Rinse the mouth with warm water at temperature of 40±2°C (122±4°F) and spit it out.
2. Chew a small piece (approximately 2x2cm) of water cracker (see description below) using only
the front teeth. Move the crumbs around with the tongue to capture any remaining particles
from the cacao mass or chocolate and swallow.
3. Rinse the mouth again with warm water and spit out.

98 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


D
4. Rinse the mouth for the third time with warm water and swallow.

Several palate cleansers, typically of food origin, can be used during the process. These may include:

∙ Non-yeast, unsalted and flavourless water crackers (made only with flour and water) as
recommended by Cacao of Excellence.
∙ Solutions of pectin or carboxymethylcellulose, particularly for assessing astringency.
∙ Fresh produce such as apple, baby carrots and cucumber.

16.3.2 Number of cacao-related samples and instructions


Instructions for assessors should be communicated clearly and concisely, preferably in both verbal
and written formats, aligning with standard operating procedures. Sufficient quantities of cacao-
related samples should be available, considering the number of assessors, portion sizes, the number
of attributes to be evaluated, and the desired number of replications.

The maximum number of samples that can be evaluated in a single session is determined by factors
such as sensory adaptation and fatigue. Fatigue can be influenced by the sample size and number of
samples per tasting session. The complexity of the task can also contribute to fatigue. Many cacao
evaluation experts find that tasting chocolate is more tiring than tasting cacao mass.

It is important for the panel to reach an agreement on the number and size of samples to be tasted
prior to the evaluation session. When reference samples are used before each session, it is advisable
to limit the total number of samples tasted to a maximum of 10 per session. It is also recommended
to take a break until the next session to allow the senses to rest and recover.

In analytical sensory evaluation, it is generally recommended to spit out the product rather than
swallow it. This helps to reduce the carry-over effect or the influence of one product on the perception
of the next.

16.3.3 Blind coding samples


Blind coding and labelling of samples play a crucial role in preventing assessors from having any
information about the samples beyond what is indicated on the container. This practice is essential
to eliminate potential biases related to the origin and processing of the samples.

For coding, it is recommended to use random three-digit numbers. It is important to avoid using
numbers that may hold significance or create biases among the assessors. Examples like 911 should
never be used. Various tools such as Microsoft® Excel®, online random code generators, and tables of
random numbers can be employed to generate these codes (refer to Figure 16). Maintaining a record
of sample identities and codes is essential. The blind codes should be written on both the serving
container and its lid or cover to minimize the risk of sample mix-up.

16.3.4 Randomised order of samples


Randomisation of the sample presentation order is necessary for statistical validity and to mitigate
any potential order effects, particularly the first-position order effects. This practice is particularly
helpful in scenarios where carry-over effects may occur.

To minimise the impact of first-position order effects, randomisation can be implemented by ensuring
that each sample is presented in the first position an equal number of times, thus distributing the
effect evenly across all samples and assessors. Another approach is to serve a dummy sample as the
initial presentation. Examples of randomisation can be found in Tables 33 and 34.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 99


Table 33. Example of sample coding and serving orders for 6 samples evaluated by 6 assessors.

SAMPLE A SAMPLE B SAMPLE C SAMPLE D SAMPLE E SAMPLE F

ASSESOR
820 314 582 172 738 552

I 6th 4th 3rd 2nd 5th 1st


II 2nd 1st 6th 5th 4th 3rd
III 4th 2nd 1st 3rd 6th 5th
IV 3rd 6th 4th 5th 2nd 1st
V 1st 2nd 5th 6th 3rd 4th
VI 5th 3rd 1st 4th 2nd 6th
Notes

Table 34. Example of the final serving order for each assessor with codes.

ASSESOR I 552 172 582 314 738 820

ASSESOR II 314 820 552 738 172 582

ASSESOR III 582 314 172 820 552 738

ASSESOR IV 552 738 820 582 172 314

ASSESOR V 820 314 738 552 582 172

ASSESOR VI 582 738 314 172 820 552

16.4 Considerations for sensory assessors


The selection of assessors for sensory evaluation should be based on specific criteria related to the
tasks, type of sensory test, and the food product being evaluated. Various factors that may influence
assessors' performance should be carefully considered to ensure efficient sensory evaluation, both at
an individual and panel level. These factors pertain to the selection, training, performance, monitoring,
and evaluation of assessors.

∙ Selecting assessors: Assessors should be selected based on their experience with the products
to be evaluated, availability, commitment, and their incentives for participation (such as monetary
compensation, recognition, or employment benefits). Recruitment processes can include questionnaires

100 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


D
to gather information about food preferences, allergies, restrictions, and general interest in participating.
Additionally, assessors may undergo a medical examination to assess their overall health condition,
as well as screening tests for sensory acuity, such as threshold discrimination, difference testing,
ranking tests, etc. The number and diversity of recruited assessors should also be taken into account.

∙ Training assessors: Training should involve an orientation session that provides background information
on the project, general good practices, the specific food product(s) to be evaluated (including the
number and types), the type of sensory evaluation test, and the expected level of commitment. Training
materials should include reference samples, a training manual, forms, data sheets, etc. Evaluation
procedures should cover sample preparation and serving, the flavour attribute or descriptor lists
(glossary of terms), the scoring system, the use of scales, etc.

∙ Assessors’ conduct during sensory evaluations: Assessors as well as anyone involved in sample
setup and handling should avoid using strong scents, perfumes, or aftershaves. Hands should be
washed with scent-free soap before tasting. Individuals with colds or respiratory tract infections
should not attend or participate in sample preparation and sensory evaluation sessions. Ideally,
evaluations should take place at least two hours after a meal and one hour after consuming items
such as cigarettes, coffee, spicy food, alcoholic beverages, or engaging in strenuous exercise. The
date and time of day should be noted on the sensory score sheet.

∙ Instructions: Clear and concise instructions should be provided to assessors before the evaluation
begins, both verbally and in written form. Assessors should feel comfortable asking questions
if they are unsure about the instructions. Instructions can be pre-tested on individuals who are
unfamiliar with sensory evaluation and the project. Assessors should strive to be independent in
their evaluations, following their initial instincts and trusting their abilities. They should avoid making
facial expressions or verbalising their reactions until everyone has finished tasting. Assessors should
also refrain from discussing the evaluation until everyone has completed the sensory assessment.

∙ Evaluation and monitoring of performance: Similar to any analytical or measuring apparatus,


assessors should undergo regular checks to ensure their ability to conduct evaluations consistently
and validly. It is important to monitor assessors' performance individually and in comparison to the
panel, considering factors such as repeatability, discrimination capacity, and alignment with other
panel members. Clear criteria and procedures for evaluating assessors' performance should be
defined and presented to the sensory evaluation panel.

For descriptive analysis, assessors' performance, particularly in using scales, can be evaluated and
calibrated as necessary for each attribute, using appropriate reference materials like cacao mass
or chocolate.

Maintaining assessors' motivation to participate in sensory evaluation sessions is crucial. This can be
achieved through a feedback and/or reward system that instils a sense of purpose and significance
among the assessors. Feedback on assessors' performance can be presented by sharing data on
their individual performance across sessions and comparing it with other assessors in the panel. It
is essential to maintain assessor anonymity, ensuring that panel members only receive their own
feedback and not that of other members.

Certificates of attendance or evaluation performance can serve as effective motivators. By implementing


these strategies, assessors are more likely to stay engaged and dedicated to their roles in sensory
evaluation.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 101


8 2 0 3 1 4 5 8 2 1 7 2 7 3 8 5 5 2 9 0 6 3 1 8 4

0 8 7 3 3 1 9 7 5 2 5 7 8 9 8 0 3 8 2 5 1 2 7 5 2

2 3 3 8 8 1 4 2 4 0 2 6 1 8 9 5 2 8 9 8 3 4 0 1 0

4 7 5 5 8 3 0 7 7 1 9 1 8 1 7 4 1 7 1 3 7 9 3 3 7

1 9 3 9 5 3 4 9 5 5 2 7 5 8 0 3 4 8 8 1 2 7 5 3 4

2 8 7 8 1 4 1 4 9 4 2 4 1 5 2 9 4 8 2 1 5 2 8 1 9

8 4 8 5 1 3 9 8 6 0 7 2 1 9 0 2 0 8 7 0 8 0 1 3 0

0 3 8 8 4 7 5 1 5 1 7 3 4 5 2 0 7 4 7 9 8 6 7 7 4

3 5 3 1 9 3 7 4 9 5 0 2 0 1 4 6 2 5 4 5 8 5 0 9 2

3 4 5 9 5 2 7 9 8 9 0 5 5 8 5 1 7 7 3 5 5 4 7 7 2

4 1 5 3 0 9 1 3 7 2 5 8 7 7 1 3 6 3 9 7 8 7 9 1 7

7 2 9 5 6 7 8 5 4 5 3 4 5 4 1 9 8 8 7 5 7 9 3 1 8

5 9 2 8 9 8 6 4 4 1 5 3 7 7 0 8 0 2 5 6 0 8 1 2 0

1 3 3 3 9 0 5 2 8 7 4 0 9 0 3 7 3 1 7 9 4 5 5 2 8

4 8 0 1 0 8 6 2 1 0 0 5 0 3 1 5 4 9 0 3 7 4 7 0 1

7 7 0 8 6 3 2 8 8 5 8 9 5 8 4 0 5 9 1 8 0 5 4 9 4

3 3 8 5 7 5 7 4 3 4 5 7 9 8 9 5 0 7 7 6 8 8 8 5 9

9 1 7 1 3 6 9 2 9 1 9 4 2 3 3 0 8 1 8 7 7 6 4 7 2

6 2 2 8 0 9 4 5 3 7 2 5 4 8 8 5 6 6 5 0 4 6 5 6 8

1 7 5 9 0 0 2 0 5 8 5 8 5 1 9 5 3 3 7 4 0 5 8 2 4

0 3 9 6 9 4 7 3 5 7 0 8 5 4 7 1 1 8 5 3 2 8 0 9 8

3 0 8 2 8 1 4 4 1 8 7 8 6 9 9 9 7 5 8 9 8 4 5 9 0

9 4 9 1 2 2 0 1 3 2 4 8 7 9 1 8 8 2 9 8 3 2 8 2 9

7 2 5 1 4 4 9 8 5 2 8 5 5 1 0 8 2 6 2 0 8 9 2 2 3

9 9 2 5 7 4 3 1 2 3 8 4 1 5 2 4 0 4 2 2 8 7 1 8 2

2 0 9 1 8 9 4 4 8 1 4 8 8 7 9 2 5 0 8 9 3 3 0 1 2

8 5 2 8 1 2 1 7 7 1 4 7 8 1 4 2 7 3 7 4 0 0 1 2 9

1 2 9 9 8 4 2 5 3 2 7 4 3 2 3 3 8 5 3 3 8 5 5 3 2

3 2 8 3 7 9 6 0 4 8 8 0 5 4 1 1 4 9 0 5 0 9 4 4 1

0 9 3 4 1 1 9 5 8 3 2 4 6 7 3 4 4 9 2 3 7 2 5 7 8

8 7 5 3 4 2 1 5 5 0 1 2 4 7 5 5 2 8 8 7 8 2 8 0 3

9 6 0 1 3 0 5 3 8 6 2 9 6 0 3 4 7 8 1 1 9 1 6 5 3

Figure 16. Table of random numbers: start on any column or row and read in any direction to create random three-digit numbers
to label the sample cups. (Lawless and Heymann, 2010).

102 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 17. Sensory evaluation of unroasted
cacao beans as coarse powder
D
17.1 Objective
This protocol* outlines the procedure for preparing and conducting sensory evaluation of unroasted
cacao beans ground into a coarse powder. The primary objective is to perform an initial quality
screening of fermented and dried but unroasted cacao bean samples, complementing the physical
evaluation and aroma profile obtained from whole and cut beans. This evaluation helps identify
defects, off-flavours, and other characteristics relevant to decision-making processes. Additionally,
it provides an indicative flavour profile and overall quality assessment that can be expected once the
beans are roasted and processed into cacao mass or chocolate.

The process can be conducted either in the field or a laboratory setting, with or without access to
electricity, and by an individual assessor or a panel of assessors. This method serves as a complement
to the sensory evaluation of cacao beans as mass or chocolate. It offers a quick and cost-effective
tool for monitoring the quality and flavour potential of a small, uniform cacao bean sample at an
early stage of the value chain, following harvest and post-harvest processes. It is important to note
that the results obtained will be indicative and should be interpreted with caution, considering the
representativeness of the tested sample (as explained in Chapter 5, 'Sampling bagged and bulk cacao
beans'). It is also essential to recognise that flavour precursors develop during the roasting process,
and the particle size of the powder can impact the release of flavour compounds.

*The content of this protocol was developed by the Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute (FCCI) and
reviewed by the members of the ISCQF Working Group.

17.2 Key specifications


Table 35. Key specifications for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans as unroasted coarse powder.

Parameter Specification
Sample size from a 2kg representative sample 500g
Test sample size for a small uniform cacao bean lot 30–50 cacao beans
Particle size of coarse powder 0.5mm
Quantity of coarse powder for sensory evaluation Half a teaspoonful (2.5ml)
Palate cleanser between sensory evaluation of a sample Water at room temperature
Flavour attributes to be evaluated Glossary of terms
Scale for intensity of flavour attributes and global quality 0–10

17.3 Equipment, tools and materials


The recommended tools and equipment for preparing and conducting a sensory evaluation of
fermented, dried and unrosted cacao beans as coarse powder, are as follows:

∙ A popcorn popper (see Annexes, Figure 67) can be used if electricity is available. In cases where
electricity is not available, a nutcracker (see Annexes, Figure 84) or a knife can be used.

∙ A grinder able to grind cacao beans to a particle size of 0.5mm without heating, such as an
electric blade mill grinder with stainless steel blades (Annexes, Figure 85) or a manual burr mill
grinder (Annexes, Figure 86).

Part D | Sensory evaluation 103


∙ A container of 180-240ml (3/4 to 1 cup) sealed with a lid, food-safe and odourless in order to hold
the sample during the sensory evaluation (Annexes, Figure 87). If the sample is not immediately
assessed, keep the container sealed to preserve volatiles until an evaluation is performed.

∙ Spit and rinse cups.

∙ Water at ambient temperature (neither cold nor cooled) to rinse the palate between samples.

∙ A teaspoon with a standard capacity of 2.5ml.

∙ An evaluation form and a pen with unscented ink.

∙ A pair of tweezers.

17.4 Procedure
17.4.1 Sample preparation
This protocol involves handling unroasted cacao beans. Unroasted beans are a raw agricultural product
that may contain pathogens, posing a food safety hazard if consumed. The coarse powder should not
be tasted by individuals who are young, old, pregnant, or have weakened immune systems.

It is important to maintain good hand hygiene by washing hands frequently, especially before and
after sample preparation and before and after sensory evaluation. If sample preparation is interrupted,
hands should be washed again before resuming the process or handling the beans. Additionally, all
tools and working surfaces should be cleaned and disinfected prior to processing. For further food
safety recommendations, please refer to Chapter 3.

The following steps are recommended for sample preparation:

1. If the evaluation is conducted blind, a person other than the assessor should select the sample
and assign a randomised three-digit blind code to the cacao bean sample. The processing can
then be carried out by the assessor.

2. Either sample 500g from a 2kg representative sample or select 30-50 cacao beans randomly
from a sample that has undergone physical quality and moisture content evaluation, as outlined
in Chapter 7 'Determination of moisture content,' Chapter 8 'Physical evaluation of whole cacao
beans,' and Chapter 9 'Physical evaluation of cut cacao beans'.

NOTE: 30–50 beans may be sufficient for the evaluation for a uniform and small lot. However, in order to obtain a
statistically representative sample, 500g of beans should be obtained from quartering from the representative sample
of 2kg, then ground and mixed for sensory evaluation (see Chapter 5 ‘Sampling bagged and bulk cacao beans’).

3. Loosen the shells of the beans:


∙ If electricity is available loosen the shells by puffing the beans in a popcorn popper (Annexes
Figure 67) for a maximum of 60 seconds. Agitate the popper during this period to continuously
minimise the heat exposure of the beans.

∙ If electricity is not available, use a nutcracker (Annexes, Figure 84) to slightly crush the beans
with and loosen the shells for an easier peeling. A knife can also be used to loosen the shells.

4. Peel the cacao beans with your fingers to obtain the nibs (shelled cacao beans). Collect them in
a clean bowl and the shells in another bowl. Follow the protocol for winnowing manually for
a quantity of 500g, Chapter 12 'Breaking and winnowing cacao beans'.

5. If shell fragments remain on some of the nibs, use the tweezers to remove (pick) them all.

104 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


D
6. Pour the shelled nibs into the grinder.

7. Grind the nibs into coarse powder with a particle size of around 0.5mm (this size can be
inspected visually):

∙ If using an electric grinder, process for 10 seconds while vigorously shaking the mill up and
down to prevent clumping and to ensure that areas inside grinder that rise in temperature
do not overheat the sample.

∙ If using the burr grinder, turn the handle continuously until the particles are of a uniform size,
approximately 0.5mm.

8. Label the odour-free container with the identification code for the sample. If the samples are
to be blind assessed, use a randomised three-digit code (see Chapter 16 ‘General guidelines for
sensory evaluation’).

9. Pour the coarse powder into the odour-free container and close the lid until the sensory
evaluation begins.

NOTE: Once ground into coarse powder, the sample should be in a sealed container and evaluated immediately.
If stored for a successive evaluation, the sample should be kept in a tightly sealed container and the time lapse
between sample preparation and sensory evaluation should not exceed three hours. The ground beans should
not be stored in a fridge or freezer during this time as condensation may occur and freezing may alter the flavour
profile. If samples need to be stored over a longer period, store whole beans and prepare the coarse powder shortly
before the sensory evaluation.

17.4.2 Sensory evaluation


The following steps are recommended for the sensory evaluation of unroasted cacao beans ground
in coarse powder:

1. Gently stir or tumble the coarse powder sample while placing the nose over the open container.

2. Assess the aroma of the sample and record any observations in the comments section of the
evaluation form (access the form in Section 20.3).

3. Place a half teaspoonful (2.5ml) of the sample on the tongue and hold it in the mouth for the
necessary duration needed to score the attributes, moving it across the palate. Do not chew.

4. Inhale tiny amounts of air through the mouth, as if sipping, and exhale through the nose to allow
the aroma and flavour to become fully apparent.

5. In the mouth, notice the different attributes that become apparent at three contiguous time
intervals: (1) the initial, (2) middle and (3) residual end flavour notes. Some flavours appear or
disappear very quickly or are easily masked, while others can linger with a distinct aftertaste.
The order or appearance of these notes varies from sample to sample.

6. While the different attributes are becoming apparent, evaluate the flavour of the coarse powder
using the attributes and the intensity scale between 0 to 10 (refer to Table 38 in Chapter 20). The
appearance and perception of flavour attributes may not necessarily align with the order listed
on the form. Any attribute can become noticeable at the beginning or middle stages and then
fade away. Evaluate the intensity of the attributes in the order they appear and are perceived,
using a scale of 0-10, while keeping in mind the scale's defined meaning in the Glossary of Terms.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 105


NOTE: The flavour attributes are divided into three groups:
Core attributes: Cacao, acidity, bitterness and astringency that are expected to be present in every cacao
sample and scored.
Complementary attributes: Characteristics that may or may not be perceived in a cacao sample.
Off-flavours: Resulting from defects that may or may not be perceived in a cacao sample.

7. Once the sample is characterised, score the global quality between 0 and 10. The meaning of
the scale is explained in Section 20.2, Table 39.

8. Spit out the coarse powder and saliva bolus into a spitting cup for this purpose.

9. Pay attention to the flavours that may be present in the finish and aftertaste and modify or
review your scoring accordingly.

10. In the comments section, include any additional observations about the sample that have not
been mentioned elsewhere. This includes any specific recommendations for the cacao producer,
especially if there are notable observations related to the fermentation and drying process.

11. Thoroughly rinse the palate with water at ambient temperature (avoid cold or cooled water)
and spit the rinse water into a cup for this purpose. Repeat as necessary, particularly in cases
of significant off-flavours.

12. Note any general comments about the sample.

13. Take a break if you experience palate overload or carry-over effect.

14. Proceed with the next sample.

Elkin Mejía Costa Rica

106 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 18. Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as
cacao mass
D
18.1 Objective
This protocol outlines the procedure for conducting sensory evaluation to assess the flavour attributes
and global quality of fermented, dried and roasted cacao beans processed into mass without any
additional ingredients. The primary objective is to generate one of two types of distinct sensory flavour
profiles (based and adapted from ISO 13299):

∙ Quantitative sensory flavour profile: obtained by the statistical analysis of data generated by
several assessors (panel) evaluating the same samples and flavour attributes.

∙ Consensus sensory flavour profile: obtained through a discussion and agreement by a group of
assessors (panel) evaluating the same samples and flavour attributes after individual evaluation
see Section 20.4.2 'Considerations on sensory profiling obtained by consensus'.

18.2 Key specifications


Table 36. Key specifications for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans as cacao mass.

Parameter Specification
Quantity of cacao mass for evaluation per tasting 1–2g

Characteristics of the container for the cacao mass sample Odour-free, 28ml cup with lid

Temperature of the cacao mass sample at the time Melted at 48–50°C (118–122°F)
of sensory evaluation

Maximum time that the sample should be at 48–50°C 5 minutes


(118.4–122°F) heated only once i.e. not reheated

Palate cleanser between sensory evaluation of a sample Non-yeast, unsalted and flavourless water crackers and
warm water at 40–50°C (104–122°F)

Minimum number of assessors (members) in a sensory evaluation panel 6


for quantitative sensory profiles (based on data analysis)

Minimum number of assessors (members) in a sensory evaluation panel 4


for conventional sensory profiles (agreed final values)

Maximum number of cacao mass samples tasted 6


during an evaluation session

Minimum number of known reference cacao mass samples tasted prior 2


to each evaluation session for calibration purposes

Replicates: number of times each cacao mass 2


is evaluated (minimum)

Minimum blind known cacao mass samples per 1


evaluation session in absence of replicates

Flavour attributes (core and complementary) to be evaluated Glossary of terms

Scale for intensity of flavour attributes and global quality 0–10

Part D | Sensory evaluation 107


18.3 Equipment, tools and materials
18.3.1 Cacao mass samples
∙ For the production of cacao mass see Chapter 13 ‘Refining cacao nibs into mass’.

∙ The cacao mass samples should be stored as solid mass in jars (Annexes, Figure 88), as bars,
or in portion-size drops (Annexes, Figure 89) inside a sealed container or bag. The jars, bags or
containers must be odour-free and not permeable to moisture nor oxygen and avoid loss of
aromas. Samples can be frozen in a deep-freezer at approximately -18˚C (-0.4°F) for long-term
storage (more than a year), or kept in a refrigerator at approximately 4˚C (39°F) or in a room at
approximately 15˚C (72°F) for up to a year if the temperature is maintained.

∙ For sensory evaluation, each assessor should be provided with 1-2g of the cacao mass sample
to be evaluated (doubled if tasted twice). The samples to be evaluated include:

» Unknown cacao mass samples with unknown flavour profiles.

» Reference cacao mass samples with known flavour attribute scores for calibration.

» Blind control cacao mass samples in case no replicates are available.

NOTE: Depending on the number of assessors and samples per evaluation session, plan for the total amount of
samples to be heated.

∙ It is recommended to evaluate a maximum of 12 unknown cacao mass samples per day, with
a maximum of 6 samples per session. These numbers can be adjusted based on the assessors'
experience, such as dividing them into two sessions of 6 samples or three sessions of 4 samples.
The time intervals between sessions will depend on meal times and other food-related breaks.
It is important not to conduct sensory evaluation immediately after a meal.

∙ For calibration purposes, it is advised to evaluate two reference cacao mass samples per session
before assessing the unknown samples. The first reference sample should have a high cacao
intensity, while the second sample can be chosen randomly or selected to match the expected
flavour profile of the unknown samples if information about the region or country is available.

∙ If possible, it is recommended to evaluate each unknown cacao mass sample at least twice (two
replicates) during different evaluation sessions to account for individual variation.

∙ To monitor an assessor's performance, it is suggested to include a blind control sample in several


evaluation sessions.

18.3.2 Equipment and tools for cacao mass sample preparation


The suggested equipment and tools for preparing the cacao mass samples are as follows:

∙ For serving the cacao mass samples, it is recommended to use 28ml odour-free soufflé cups with
lids (refer to Annexes, Figure 90). These cups should be made of food-grade material and should
be heat-resistant to at least 50°C (122°F). Ideally, C-pet (Crystalline Polyethylene Terephthalate),
polystyrene, or polypropylene plastic cups are recommended. However, glass or any other
reusable material can also be used as long as they meet these specifications.

NOTE: To test if the containers are odour-free, place a number of cups in an odour-free glass container, seal it,
warm it to 50°C (122°F) and hold it for one hour. Open the lid and smell the contents. If no odours are smelled, then
the cups are odour-free.

108 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


D
∙ Adhesive labels and odour-free fine point permanent marker to label the cups.

∙ Top-loading weighing scales with an accuracy of 0.1g.

∙ Temperature-controlled heating equipment such as dry-bath incubator (Annexes, Figure 91),


heating block, warming plate (Annexes, Figure 92), oven with trays (Annexes, Figure 94a), food
dehydrator (Annexes, Figure 94b), or bain-marie (Annexes, Figure 94c).

∙ A non-contact infrared thermometer (0–100°C or 32–212°F) to measure cacao mass temperature


(Annexes, Figure 73).

∙ A digital timer.

∙ A serrated knife and cutting board for cutting the solid cacao mass samples or a spoon or spatula
to dig out the cacao mass out of a jar (Annexes, Figure 88 and Figure 89). It is important to avoid
scraping in order to get enough cacao mass that was not exposed to the surface.

∙ A list of the serving sequence (three-digit codes generated randomly) of cacao mass samples for
the evaluation session (see Chapter 16 ‘General guidelines for sensory evaluation’).

18.4 Procedure
18.4.1 Preparation of the cacao mass samples
1. Clean and disinfect all working tools and surfaces using suitable cleaning agents and disinfectants.
When cleaning tasting spoons and spatulas, use disinfectant or soap carefully that are completely
free of odours. Allow them to air dry and air out to ensure the area is odour-free.

2. Gradually bring the cacao mass samples to room temperature after removing them from cold
storage. If they were stored in the freezer, transfer them to the refrigerator for 24 hours before
allowing them to reach room temperature.

3. Arrange all tools to be used by each assessor at their individual stations or sensory evaluation
booths (refer to Figure 17).
4. Check the appearance of the cacao mass samples to be assessed to ensure they were properly
solidified and are not stratified (see Chapter 13 ‘Processing cacao nibs into mass’). Stratified
samples look whitish at the top, and increase in darkness towards the bottom. Stratification
occurs when the cooling speed of melted cacao mass is slowed before it solidifies. The cacao
butter remains liquid for longer allowing the tiny solid particles to sediment. Sedimentation
increases the concentration of solids at the bottom. Consequently, the composition and the
flavour are not homogeneous in the sample. Before portioning stratified samples, remelt the
sample at no more than 45–50°C (113–122°F) and mix well to homogenise, then resolidify quickly
to avoid stratification.
5. Prepare the portions of cacao mass:
a. If the cacao mass is solidified inside a jar (Annexes, Figure 88), use a spatula to dig out a
vertical section of the desired amount of solid cacao mass needed considering a portion of
1–2g for each assessor. Wipe the spatula clean with a fragrance-free paper towel in between
portioning out the various cacao mass samples.
b. If the cacao mass is solidified as individual portions or drops (Annexes, Figure 89), select
the required number of drops and portion them out with a spoon or spatula, considering a
portion of approximately 1–2g per assessor. Clean the spoon or spatula with a fragrance-free
paper towel in between portioning out the various cacao mass samples.

c. If the cacao mass is solidified as blocks or bars (Annexes, Figure 89, cut them into chunks

Part D | Sensory evaluation 109


using a serrated knife and cutting board, considering a portion of approximately 1–2g per
assessor. Clean the knife and cutting board with fragrance-free paper towel in between
portioning out the various cacao mass samples.

6. Label the cups with the randomized three-digit codes (Annexes, Figure 90). The label should be
adhesive and securely fixed to the cup and the lid or the code written directly on the cup and
the lid with an odour-free fine point permanent marker.

7. Put 1–2g of each cacao mass sample into the corresponding labelled cup (check that the sample
corresponds to the code on the cup) and close the lid tightly on each sample.

8. Organise the cups with close lids with the cacao mass in groups according to the serving
sequence (see Chapter 16 ‘General guidelines for sensory evaluation’). The first group of samples
to be melted should be the first ones to be evaluated, specifically, the known reference cacao
mass samples used for palate calibration.

b)

a) c)

Figure 17. a) Sensory evaluation booth equipped with samples, printed evaluation form, spatula and water thermos b) with heating
equipment; and c) with heating equipment and computer with evaluation form (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

18.4.2 Melting cacao mass samples and serving assessors


The optimal temperature range for sensory evaluation of cacao mass is 48–50°C (118–122°F). This
temperature range ensures the best expression of flavour and minimises differences among samples
caused by inconsistent or uncontrolled crystallisation. It is important to set a specific temperature and
time for heating the samples to ensure they are heated enough to allow for the optimal expression of
core and complementary attributes, while also avoiding volatilisation and loss of delicate complementary
attributes. This approach helps minimise variations in the sensory evaluation process.

The heating equipment should be set within the temperature range of 45–52°C (113–125°F). However, it
is crucial to ensure that the cacao mass sample being evaluated remains within the range of 48–50°C
(118–122°F). The sample should be fully melted, but it should not be heated for more than five minutes
after reaching the desired temperature. It is important to avoid reheating or prolonging the heating
process, as this can result in the loss of aromatic flavours due to re- or overheating.

110 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


NOTE: Use only the quantity needed and reseal the rest of the solid cacao mass sample to minimise air exposure,
evaporation and the oxidation of the samples aromas. D
The melting time for any given sample is dependent on many factors. These include:

∙ Inherent hardness or melting point of the cacao butter occurring naturally in the cacao mass.
∙ Sample size, e.g. 1g melts faster than 2g.
∙ Type of cups used, the material and its thickness.
∙ Contact of the bottom of the cups with the base of the heater.

It is recommended to conduct a few trials in advance of the sensory evaluation to find the total time
needed to fully melt the samples with the specific heating equipment to be used and within the given
environment. Take note of this time.

The steps for melting samples and serving one sample at a time are as follows:

1. Set the temperature of the heating equipment to uniformly melt the samples at 48–50°C (118–122°F).

2. Close the lid or door of the heating chamber to enhance thermal efficiency.

3. Once the heating chamber has reached the set temperature, open the lid or door and place the
first cup or group of cups with cacao mass into the heating equipment.

4. Heat the samples until fully melted (duration specified in the trials). Avoid heating for more than
five minutes after reaching 48–50°C (118–122°F).

5. Check the temperature of the samples before serving, using a non-contact infrared thermometer
pointed at the closed cup, which provides a reliable estimate of the cacao mass temperature.
Avoid opening the cups to prevent loss of aromas.

6. Confirm that the assessors are ready to begin the sensory evaluation.

7. Remove the melted samples in the cups from the heating equipment.

8. Serve the samples in the cups to the assessors and instruct them to start the sensory evaluation
immediately, following the steps outlined in Section 18.4.3 ‘Flavour evaluation of cacao mass
samples’.

9. While the assessors are evaluating the first group of samples, insert the next group of cups
containing the samples into the heating equipment.

10. Repeat steps 3 to 9 until all the samples have been melted and assessed.

It is possible to reduce the time between successive evaluations by staggering the melting of samples
(refer to Figure 18 and Figure 19 below) and synchronising it with the evaluation process. However,
the evaluation time for each sample should not be arbitrarily set, as it can vary depending on several
factors, including:

∙ Time interval needed by the assessors to evaluate one sample, i.e. less experienced assessors
may take longer than more experienced assessors.

∙ The number of attributes to be scored and the written descriptions for each sample.

An example of staggered melting of samples is described in the Figure 18 and illustrated in Figure 19.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 111


Example of steps for staggering the melting of samples:

∙ Five-minute interval per sample


∙ Three groups of samples in the heating equipment
∙ Fifteen minutes of melting time per sample before evaluation

Steps:
1. Set the temperature of the heating equipment to heat the samples uniformly to 48–50°C (118.4–122°F).
2. Close the lid or door of the heating chamber for better thermal efficiency.
3. Put the first group of samples in cups into the heating equipment.
4. After 5 minutes place the second group of samples in cups into the heating equipment.
5. After 10 minutes, place the third group of samples in cups into the heating equipment.
6. After 15 minutes, take the first group of samples in the cups out of the heating equipment and insert the fourth
group of samples. If needed, the second and third groups can be moved up inside the heating chamber.
7. Serve the first group of samples in cups to the assessors.
8. While they are assessing the first samples, insert the next group of samples in cups into the heating equipment.
9. Repeat this procedure (Steps from 3 to 9) until all samples have been assessed.

For example, for three groups of samples with a six-minute tasting interval, melting time per sample would be
18 minutes. However, for a seven or eight-minute tasting interval, two groups of samples should be in the heating
equipment for a melting time of 14–16 minutes per sample. In this case, the temperature may need to be adjusted up
to +/-2°C to ensure that the samples are just melted per specification. The specific melting time should be identified
in the trials as it will depend on the heating equipment, the material of the cups and the environmental conditions.

Figure 18. Example of steps for staggering the melting of samples.

Samples with
10 minute heating time:
10" to be served in 5 minutes

Samples with
5" 5 minute heating time:
to be served in 10 minutes

0" Samples with


0 minute heating time:
to be served in 15 minutes

Figure 19. Example of heating stages of cacao mass samples when serving to a panel (using a food dehydrator). (Dolores Alvarado/
Bioversity International).

112 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


D
18.4.3 Flavour evaluation of cacao mass samples
1. Clearly explain the objective of the specific sensory evaluation to all assessors.

2. Ensure that the assessors are trained on the flavour attributes to be assessed and the sensory
evaluation procedure being employed.

3. The first sample to be evaluated should be a known reference cacao mass sample for calibration
with evaluation data obtained from a calibrated panel. Check that it is labelled as such, and that
evaluation data is available.

4. Check that the three-digit code of the cacao mass sample to be evaluated corresponds to the
matching code on the evaluation form see (Chapter 20 'Tools for sensory evaluation').

5. Place the cup with the melted cacao mass close to the nose, then remove the lid.

6. After clearing your nostrils by breathing out, take several inward sniffs to sense the aroma
present in the head space of the cup. Deeply smell the sample immediately while simultaneously
mixing it with the tasting spatula.

7. Record any observations about the aroma in the comments section in the evaluation form (see
Chapter 20 'Tools for sensory evaluation').

8. Scoop approximately 0.75–1g (1ml) of melted cacao mass onto the tasting spatula.

9. Spread the cacao mass on the tongue, hold it in the mouth for the time necessary to score the
attributes, slowly rubbing the tongue against the roof of the mouth.

10. Inhale tiny amounts of air through the mouth, as if sipping, and exhale through the nose to allow
the aroma and flavour to become fully apparent. Only inhale small sips of air.

11. In the mouth, notice the different attributes that become apparent at three contiguous time
intervals: (1) the initial, (2) middle; and (3) residual end flavour notes. Some flavours appear or
disappear very quickly or are easily masked, while others linger with a distinct aftertaste. The
sequence in which these notes manifest themselves may vary from one sample to another.

12. While the different attributes become apparent, evaluate the flavour of the cacao mass using
the attributes and the intensity scale between 0 to 10 defined in the ‘Glossary of Terms’ (Chapter
20 'Tools for sensory evaluation'). The appearance and perception of flavour attributes may
not necessarily follow the order specified in the 'Glossary of terms' or the evaluation form. Any
attribute, regardless of its category (core, complementary, off-flavours), can become apparent
during the initial or middle-time intervals and may subsequently disappear.

NOTE: In the ‘Glossary of terms’, the flavour attributes are divided into three groups:
Core attributes: Cacao, acidity, bitterness, astringency and roast degree expected to be present in every
sample and should always be scored.
Complementary attributes: Characteristics that can be perceived but not always found in every sample.
Off-flavours: Defects that may be present in the cacao mass sample.

13. Once the flavour profile of the samples has been documented, evaluate its global quality on
a scale of 0-10, based on the meaning described in Chapter 20 'Tools for sensory evaluation'.

14. Spit out the cacao mass and saliva bolus into the provided spitting cup.

15. Pay attention to any flavours present in the finish and aftertaste and adjust or revise your scores
accordingly.

16. In the comments section, include any additional observations about the sample that have not
been noted elsewhere, including any recommendations for the cacao producer, particularly
regarding the fermentation and drying process.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 113


17. Proceed with cleansing the palate to preparate for the evaluation of the next sample.

18.4.4 Palate cleansing


To clean the palate between each cacao mass or chocolate sample, follow these steps:

1. Rinse the mouth with warm water around 40–50°C (104–122°F) swilling vigorously.

2. Spit the rinse water into a spit cup designated for this purpose.

3. Chew a small piece of a non-yeast, unsalted and flavourless water cracker (approximately
2×2cm) with the front teeth only (do not use molars as the crackers may get stuck in the teeth
and become difficult to dislodge). Move the crumbs around with the tongue to pick up cacao
mass particles and swallow.

4. Rinse the mouth again with warm water and spit out (rinse forwards).

5. Rinse the mouth for the third time with warm water, but this time swallowing (rinse backwards).

6. Repeat any steps of the rinsing sequence if a sample is particularly persistent due to some
defect or intense attribute.

7. Keep the mouth closed to stabilise temperature and normal saliva function in the mouth, for
2–3 minutes.

18.4.5 Considerations for sensory evaluation of solid cacao mass


Cacao mass can also be evaluated for flavour in its solid form, whether tempered or not, melted at
an uncontrolled temperature, or taken directly from the refining process. This allows for convenient
assessment of flavour and consistency within an organisation or company. However, it is important
to note that evaluating solid cacao mass introduces variations that can compromise reproducibility
across organisations. These variations include differences in flavour expression due to uncontrolled
crystallisation.

To minimise variations and ensure consistent evaluation, the sample of solid cacao mass should be
well-tempered, equilibrated at room temperature, moulded into any thin shape of about 4g.

The following steps are recommended for evaluating solid cacao mass:

1. Place a small piece of solid cacao mass (approximately 2g or half a piece) on the tongue.

2. Position the cacao mass pieces between the tongue and the palate.

3. Chew the cacao mass two or three times with the mouth closed, but do not swallow.

4. Allow the sample to melt completely.

5. Perceive the flavours as they appear and record the evaluation using the attributes and the
intensity scale between 0 to 10 defined in the ‘Glossary of Terms’ (Chapter 20 'Tools for sensory
evaluation').

6. Cleanse your palate as described earlier.

7. Specify in the documentation of results that the cacao mass sample was evaluated in its solid
form, so that the results can be interpreted accordingly.

114 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Ch 19. Sensory evaluation of cacao beans as
dark chocolate
D
19.1 Objective
This protocol describes the process of conducting sensory evaluation of fermented, dried and roasted
cacao beans processed into a dark chocolate, in order to describe the flavour attributes and global
quality.

19.2 Key specifications


Table 37. Key specifications for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans as dark chocolate.

Parameter Specification
Quantity of dark chocolate for evaluation per tasting 2–3g
Temperature of the dark chocolate sample at the time Room temperature
of sensory evaluation
Palate cleanser between sensory evaluation Non-yeast, unsalted and flavourless water crackers and
of a sample warm water at 40–50°C (104–122°F)
Flavour attributes (core and complementary) Glossary of terms
to be evaluated
Scale for intensity of flavour attributes 0–10
and global quality

19.3 Equipment, tools and materials


19.3.1 Dark chocolate samples
∙ For the production of dark chocolate see Chapter 13, ‘Processing cacao nibs into mass’ and Chapter
14, ‘Processing cacao mass into dark chocolate’.

∙ The dark chocolate samples should be stored properly, ensuring they are well crystallised. They
should be kept inside a sealed container or bag that is both odour-free and impermeable to
moisture and oxygen. This will help prevent any loss of aromas and maintain the quality of the
samples.

∙ It is recommended to evaluate a maximum of 12 chocolate samples per day, with no more


than six samples in a single session. These numbers can be adjusted based on the assessors'
experience. For instance, they can be divided into two sessions of six samples or three sessions
of four samples. The timing between sessions should take into account meal times and other
food-related breaks. It is important to note that sensory evaluation should not be conducted
immediately after a meal.

19.3.2 Equipment and tools for cacao mass sample preparation


∙ Small plates or cups for serving the dark chocolate samples.

∙ Warm water (avoiding chlorinated tap water or water with added salts) to rinse the mouth
between tastings, kept in a thermos capable of maintaining the water at 40–50°C (104–122°F) for
at least 2+ hours (or the length of the evaluation session) (Annexes, Figure 93).

∙ Spit and rinse cups in a tasting booth.

∙ An evaluation form and odour-free pen or computer for recording results.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 115


∙ Non-yeast, unsalted and flavourless water crackers, for palate cleansing in-between samples.

∙ Paper napkins.

∙ The Glossary of terms, containing a scale of intensity and meanings to use as references to score
flavour attributes for the chocolate sensory evaluation.

19.4 Procedure
19.4.1 Preparation of the dark chocolate samples
1. Bring the chocolate samples to room temperature. If the samples are stored in a cold room,
take them out one hour prior to the evaluation. In the case of samples stored in the freezer,
transfer them to the fridge overnight and then allow them to reach room temperature for an
hour before evaluation.

2. Cut the chocolate into 5g pieces and place them on the plates or cups to be served, previously
labelled with the sample ID (three-digit-codes).

3. Order the chocolates in the right serving order.

19.4.2 Flavour evaluation of the dark chocolate samples


1. The first sample to be evaluated should be a known reference dark chocolate sample for
calibration.

2. Check that the three-digit code of the dark chocolate sample to be evaluated corresponds to
the matching code on the evaluation form.

3. Break the chocolate piece into 2 pieces.

4. Take one piece and place it close to the nose.

5. Deeply smell the sample whilst simultaneously rubbing its surface with the fingers.

6. After clearing the nostrils by breathing out, take several inward sniffs to sense its aroma.

7. Record any observations about the aroma in the comments section in the evaluation form.

8. Bite a piece of the dark chocolate and place it between the tongue and the palate.

9. Let the chocolate melt while rubbing with the tongue against the roof of the mouth.

10. Once it starts melting, spread the dark chocolate on the tongue and hold it in the mouth for the
time necessary to score the attributes.

11. Inhale tiny amounts of air through the mouth, as if sipping, and exhale through the nose to allow
the aroma and flavour to become fully apparent. Only inhale small sips of air.

12. In the mouth, notice the different attributes that become apparent at three contiguous time
intervals: (1) the initial, (2) middle and (3) residual end flavour notes. Some flavours appear or
disappear very quickly or are easily masked, whilst others could linger with a distinct aftertaste.
The order of appearance of these notes varies from sample to sample.

While the different attributes are becoming apparent, evaluate the flavour of the dark chocolate
using the attributes and the intensity scale between 0 to 10 defined in the ‘Glossary of terms’.

Appearance and perception of the attributes will not necessarily follow the order in the ‘Glossary
of terms’. Any of the attributes, regardless of the group they belong to (core, complementary,
off-flavours) may become apparent in the initial or middle-time intervals and disappear.

116 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


NOTE: In the ‘Glossary of terms’, the flavour attributes are divided into three groups: D
Core attributes: Cacao, acidity, bitterness, astringency and roast degree expected to be present in every
cacao sample and scored.
Complementary attributes: Characteristics that can be perceived but not always found in every sample.
Off-flavours: Resulting from defects that may or may not be present in the cacao sample.

13. Score the intensity of the attributes in order of appearance and perception in a scale of 1–10,
considering the meaning of the scale.

14. Once the sample is characterized for its flavour, score the global quality between 0 and 10
using the scale and its meaning explained in the Glossary of terms found in Chapter 20, ‘Tools
for sensory evaluation’.

15. If needed, spit out the chocolate and saliva bolus into a spitting cup provided for this purpose.

16. Pay attention to the flavours that may be present in the finish and aftertaste and modify or
review your scoring accordingly.

17. In the comments section, include any additional observations about the sample that are not
noted elsewhere including any recommendations for the cacao producer, if anything is noted
that relates to the fermentation and drying process.

18. Proceed with cleansing the palate to preparate for the evaluation of the next sample.

19.4.3 Palate cleansing


To clean the palate between each chocolate sample, follow these steps:

19. Rinse the mouth with warm water around 40–50°C (104–22°F) swilling vigorously.

20. Spit the rinse water into a spit cup designated for this purpose.

21. Take a small piece of non-yeast, unsalted and flavourless water cracker, approximately 2x2cm
in size, and chew it using only the front teeth. Avoid using the molars, as the crackers may get
stuck and be difficult to remove. Use the tongue to move the crumbs around the mouth, allowing
them to pick up any chocolate particles. Afterward, swallow the mixture.

22. Rinse the mouth again with warm water and spit out (rinse forwards).

23. Rinse the mouth for the third time with warm water, but this time swallowing (rinse backwards).

24. Repeat any steps of the rinsing sequence if a sample is particularly persistent due to some
defect or intense attribute.

25. Keep the mouth closed to stabilise temperature and normal saliva function in the mouth, for
a period of 2–3 minutes.

Neil Palmer CIAT

Part D | Sensory evaluation 117


Ch 20. Tools for sensory evaluation
To ensure comparability of results, it is essential to have a common vocabulary and a set of tools
that guide the sensory evaluation and recording process. These tools play a crucial role in providing
valuable insights into the sensory attributes of a product. Manufacturers, marketers, and researchers
can then utilise these insights to enhance the quality and appeal of the product to consumers. This
chapter delves into the various tools employed in sensory evaluation. The tools are as follows:

∙ Flavour Wheel: This tool provides a quick and comprehensive overview of a shared vocabulary
for flavour attributes and their sub-attributes. It assists in standardising the terminology used
during evaluations.

∙ Glossary of terms: A collection of terms with definitions of flavour attributes and sub-attributes.
This resource aids in understanding and assessing the intensity of flavours and the global quality
of the product.

∙ Sensory Evaluation Form: This form is designed to record the flavour attributes and their
intensity scores, global quality assessments, and any additional comments that may be useful
for communication with the producers of the cacao bean samples and any users of the product.

∙ Tools for Analysis and Visualisation: These tools enable the analysis and visualisation of flavour
evaluations, helping to create a flavour profile for the product.

∙ Additional Documentation Guidelines: This section provides further guidance on documentation


practices, ensuring that evaluations are thorough, consistent, and properly documented.

By utilising these tools, sensory evaluations can be conducted in a standardised and systematic
manner, allowing for meaningful comparisons and facilitating communication among stakeholders.

20.1 Flavour wheel


A flavour wheel serves as a standardised tool for describing and evaluating flavours, and it exists for
various food commodities, including coffee, wine, and olive oil. Its purpose is to facilitate consistent
and objective communication and comparison of sensory attributes. By utilising a flavour wheel,
consumers, producers, and researchers can effectively identify and describe specific attributes such
as acidity, bitterness, fruitiness, spiciness, and other subtle nuances that contribute to the overall
sensory experience. This shared vocabulary enhances the understanding and evaluation of flavours
in a coherent and structured manner.

The Cacao of Excellence programme developed a flavour wheel (Fig. 20) based on its 12 years of
experience evaluating cacao samples from around the world for its Awards competition. Its development
involved the collective input of experts in sensory evaluation and in the processing of finished products.

The flavour attributes are divided into three groups:


Core attributes: Flavour characteristics expected to be present in every cacao. They include
cacao, acidity, bitterness, astringency, and roast degree.
Complementary attributes: Flavour characteristics that may or may not be perceived in cacao
samples. These complementary attributes are described as fresh fruit or browned fruit, vegetal,
floral, woody, spice, nutty, and caramel/panela. In the case of dark chocolate, sweetness is also
included.
Off-flavours: Characteristics that result from defects and may or may not be perceived in the
cacao samples.

118 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


D
5 C O R
FLAVOUR E
A
WHEEL T

ROAST °
T

CACAO
TOT R
AL
AC I
R S ID
IT Y
OU

B
AV

U
Ov

Put
FL

Smok
er

Fruit

T
F-

rid /
SS

fer

tic
OF

me

ey

Ace
Me

Man

E
RN

ric
tic
nte
aty

uty
TE

Lac
d/

u
/

db
re
An
BIT

S
CY

Rott
im

an
Mo
al EN

en

l
ING

ra
uld
/L

fru

ne
y
ea R

Mi
AST
it
Mu th
sty er
Dirty
/ Dus
ty Berry
Sweetness On

F R E S H F RU I T
ly for chocolate Citrus

Caramel / Panela Dark


Yellow
in / Orang
Nut sk e / Whit
e flesh

Trop
flesh
NUT T

Nut ical
i
am Dri
/ Um CO CE ed
ory
PYR
IGHT L LEN

Sav
© 2 0 2 3 C AC AO O F E XC E
Y

o Br
cc ow
ba
Gra

n
Earth

To
ssy

Ov
s

y/M
ice

/ Gr

er

U IT
Orange
Sp

rip
een
ushr
d
in

woo

e
d
Res

veg

FR
Light woo

oom
Flowers

eta
SP

Dark

blossom

/ Mo

D
l/H
IC

NE
erb
ss / W

OW
E

al

BR
oods
s

WO E TAL
O DY V EG
FLORAL

Figure 20. Cacao of Excellence Flavour Wheel (2023).

20.2 Glossary of terms for sensory evaluation


A glossary of terms is a valuable resource that provides a list of flavour attributes along with their
definitions.

These flavour attributes and sub-attributes are categorized into core attributes, complementary
attributes, and off-flavours. Each of these attributes is assessed using an intensity scale ranging from
0 to 10. The glossary also includes examples of intensity scores (references) to assist evaluators in
understanding and applying the scale accurately.

Furthermore, a global quality score is defined, providing a comprehensive assessment of the overall
quality of the sample. Table 39 presents a description of each score ranging from 0 to 10, aiding in the
interpretation and communication of the sample's evaluation.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 119


Table 38. Cacao of Excellence Glossary of terms for sensory evaluation of cacao beans processed into mass and dark chocolate
(Cacao of Excellence 2023).

Attribute intensity scale and meanings:

Intensity Meaning
0 Absent.
1 Just a trace and may not be found if tasted again.
2 Present in the sample but at low intensity.
3 to 5 Clearly characterising the sample.
6 to 8 Dominant characterisation of the sample.
9 to 10 Maximum. Strong intensity. Overpowers some other flavour notes in the sample.

The flavour attributes are divided into three groups:


1. Core attributes: cacao, acidity, bitterness, astringency and roast degree expected to be present in every sample and scored.
2. Complementary attributes: characteristics that may or may not be perceived in cacao samples.
3. Off-flavours: resulting from defects that may or may not be perceived in cacao samples.

Descriptor Description Intensity level / Reference notes

Cacao Typical flavour of roasted cacao beans that are well 0–2 Under-fermented cacao, ancient
fermented, dried, free of defects. Criollos.
3–5 Appropriately fermented “Nacional”
and Papua New Guinean lots.

6–8 Appropriately fermented cacao,


some West African and some
Dominican Republic Hispaniolan
lots.
9–10 Some West African lots.

Acidity Total acidity is the sum of the following individual 0–2 Some well-prepared West African
acidities: lots.
∙ Fruit: citric or other fruit acids. 3–5 Some Ecuadorian, Peruvian and
∙ Acetic: vinegar (can be smelled in the sample). Central American lots.

∙ Lactic: typically occurring in sour milk and yogurt 6–8 S ome Dominican Republic
Hispaniolan, Papua New Guinean
∙ Mineral and butyric: harsh metallic tasting and Malaysian lots.
(mineral) and rancid butter (butyric).

Perception of acidity intensity is particularly


dependent on the amount of sample in the mouth.

Bitterness Basic taste, typically perceived in caffeine, coffee, 1–2 Some ancient Criollos.
kola nut, some beers and grapefruit.
3–5 Well-prepared West African lots.
Perception of acidity intensity is particularly
6–8 Severely under- and un-fermented
dependent on the amount of sample in the mouth.
cacao.

120 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Descriptor Description Intensity level / Reference notes D
Astringency Astringency could be perceived in two ways: I
1–2 Some ancient Criollos.
N
∙ Sharp mouth-drying effect, sharp, perceived T 3–5 Normal intensity for most cacao.
between tongue and palate and /or at the back E
N
of the front teeth and inside lips and gums – S 6–8 -
I
typical of raw nut skins and green banana skins. T
Y 9–10 -
∙ Velvety sensation on the sides of mouth and
tongue. Typical of tannins in some wines or Sharp- Typical of under-fermented
beers. T mouth cacao.
Y
P drying
Perception of astringency intensity is particularly E
dependent on the amount of sample in the mouth. Velvety Typical of appropriately
fermented “Nacional”.

Fresh fruit Total fresh fruit is composed of the following 0–2 Many West African lots.
sub-attributes:
∙ Berry: red or black currant, strawberry, raspberry, 3–5 Some Central and South
blackberry, acai berry. American, well fermented Asia
and Pacific country lots.
∙ Citrus: orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit or generic
sensation of citrus-like fruit. 6–7 Madagascar, some Central and
∙ Dark: cherry, plum. South American country lots,
some Papua New Guinean lots.
∙ Yellow / orange / white flesh: apricot, peach,
pear, banana.
∙ Tropical: passion fruit, pineapple, mango or
soursop.

Browned fruit Total browned fruit is composed of the following 0–2 Many West African lots.
sub-attributes:
∙ Dried: dried apricot, banana, yellow raisin, fig that 3–5 Fully fermented Indonesian and
has undergone an un sulphured drying process. some Caribbean country lots.

∙ Browned: dark raisin, dates, prune.


6–8 Some Papua New Guinean and
∙ Over ripe: No longer fresh and severely over-ripe some Caribbean country lots.
fruit, turning brown inside and outside, as a step
towards over-fermentation.

Vegetal Total vegetal is composed of the following 0–2 West African lots.
sub-attributes:
∙ Grassy / Green vegetal / herbal: 3–5 Appropriately fermented
“Nacional” and some Caribbean
» Grassy – freshly cut grass, young green leaves. country lots.
» Green vegetal – crushed mature leaves.
6–8 Some Caribbean country lots
» Herbal – hay, straw or herbal / dried green, herbs
and some Peruvian lots.
like thyme and rosemary.
∙ Earthy / mushroom / moss / woodsy:
» Earthy – smell of dampness rising from soil after
rain.
» Mushroom – smell of fresh mushrooms.
» Moss – damp moss often associated with
earthiness.
» Woodsy – leaves and wood on a forest floor.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 121


Descriptor Description Intensity level / Reference notes

Floral Total floral is composed of the following: 0–2 West African lots.
∙ Orange blossom: orange blossom flavour. 3–5 Appropriately fermented “Nacional”
∙ Flowers: jasmine, honeysuckle, rose, lilac, lilies, and some Caribbean country lots.
etc.
6–8 Some Caribbean country lots and
some Peruvian lots.

Woody Total woody is composed of the following 0–2 -


sub-attributes:
∙ Light wood: freshly cut cacao wood,
3–5 Some “Nacional” and many West
white pine wood, maple wood,
African lots.
ice-cream/popsicle wooden stick.
∙ Dark wood: oak, walnut, teak, mahogany.
∙ Resin: pitch of pine or other resinous wood.

Spice Total spice is composed of the following 0–2 In most origins.


sub-attributes:
∙ Spices: dried coconut, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves,
cacao mass, tonka, vanilla, black pepper. 3–5 In some West African, Central and
∙ Tobacco: dried tobacco leaves. South American and Caribbean
country lots.
∙ Savoury/Umami: sodium glutamate, umami.

Nutty Total nutty is composed of the following sub- 0–2 In most origins.
attributes:
∙ Nutty – nut flesh: the edible kernel of a light
roasted nut – hazelnut, macadamia, pecan, 3–5 Some Central and South American
walnut, cashew, almond, brazil nut and Caribbean countries’ lots and
∙ Nutty – nut skins: the flavour of lightly roasted ancient Criollos.
nut skins – hazelnut, macadamia, pecan, walnut,
cashew, almond, brazil nut

Caramel / Aromas reminiscent of caramel, brown sugar and 0–2 In most origins
Panela panela (unrefined cane sugar)

3–5 Some Central and South American


and Caribbean countries’ lots and
ancient Criollos

Sweetness Basic taste of white sugar solutions, typically


(only for perceived in foods like candies and desserts
chocolate) that contain sugar (or other sweeteners such as
aspartame) and also naturally found in other foods
like fruits.

122 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Descriptor Description Intensity level / Reference notes D
Roast degree A measure of the extent of the roasting the beans. 2–3: Low roast
Significant under or over roasting alters many of
the attribute values. 4–6: Medium roast
7: High roast
8–10: Levels of burnt/over-roasted

Off-flavours Total Off-Flavours is composed of any unpleasant 0: Absent – clean, well fermented, dried
characters from the following: and stored cacao beans.
∙ Dirty/dusty: not related to texture but to an off- 1–2: Low intensity.
flavour.
∙ Musty: stale, damp, mildew, decaying. 3+: Clearly characterizing the sample as
∙ Mouldy: characteristic of mould growth. a defect.
∙ Meaty/animal/leather:
» Meaty – cured meat, ham, rendered fat.
» Animal – dirty animal / farmyard.
» Leather – used old leather.
∙ Over-fermented/rotten fruit: decomposing fruit.
∙ Putrid/manure:
» Putrid – wet decomposing vegetative matter.
» Manure – farmyard animal manure.
∙ Smoky: contamination from the smoke (any kind).
∙ Other off-flavours: rancid, diesel, oil fumes,
petroleum, tar, paint, tyres, chemicals, burnt, etc.

Global Quality The Global Quality score reflects the overall Global Quality scores and meaning
impression of the: below
∙ expressed flavour potential
∙ uniqueness of the sample
∙ balance of flavour and cleanliness of the finish
It celebrates the expression of genetics and terroir
diversity through the farmer's knowhow.

China-Zhong Chu - Hainan Xingke Tropical Crops Engineering Technology Co. LTD - P3

Part D | Sensory evaluation 123


Table 39. Meaning of the global quality scores for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans processed into mass and chocolate
(Cacao of Excellence 2023).

Off-flavours Core attributes Complementary attributes Notes

0 Serious Masked by Masked by off-flavours Be as specific as possible on


off-flavours off-flavours the type of off-flavours as this
1 clearly is valuable feedback to the
2 characterizing producers
the sample
3 as defective Depending on the type, number
and intensity of off-flavours,
0 would be the worst case and 3
the least but still bad

4 In low intensity Seriously Masked by off-flavours and


unbalanced unbalanced core attributes

5 In low intensity Unbalanced Partially masked by unbalanced


core attributes

6 In low intensity Unbalanced In low intensity, none outstanding, Overall plain flavour – mainly
or absent not in balance to core attributes characterized by the core
attributes and less by the
complementary attributes

7 Absence of any Balanced One or more are outstanding but Overall plain flavour – mainly
not in balance to core attributes characterized by the core
attributes and less by the
complementary attributes

8 Absence of any Well balanced with One or more are outstanding, in Overall flavour presents some
moderate base balance to core attributes and to complexity
cacao flavour each other

9 Absence of any Well balanced, good Many outstanding, in balance to Overall flavour presents a
base cacao flavour core attributes and to each other combination of complexity,
uniqueness, harmony,
brightness, clean finish

10 Absence of any Well balanced, in low Clearly recognizable, many Overall flavour presents a
to moderate intensity, outstanding, in balance to core combination of complexity,
good base cacao attributes and to each other uniqueness, harmony,
flavour brightness, clean finish
The sample is of extraordinary
quality, rarely seen

20.3 Forms for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans


Sensory data resulting from the evaluation of each sample can be recorded in various formats. The
tables and figures below contain examples of forms used for evaluating cacao beans in the forms of
unroasted coarse powder, cacao mass, and dark chocolate. For a detailed evaluation, a total score
for the sub-attributes can be calculated using the indicated formula (a declining series). This ensures
that the total score accurately represents the overall intensity of the flavour attribute and is not simply
the sum of all sub-attributes, withthe exception for the Total Acidity score, which is calculated as the
sum of the sub-attributes. Experts have advised that for this specific core attribute (acidity being a
basic taste and non-volatile), scoring the total perception first and then describing each component
separately yields a more accurate Total Score.

Sensory evaluation data can be recorded using a Microsoft® Excel® form such as the Cacao of Excellence
Sensory Evaluation Form, which provides a user-friendly interface (Figure 21). Additionally, Cacao of
Excellence offers a printed version of the evaluation form (Figure 22).The form can be simplified by
using the main core attributes only as shown in Table 42.

124 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Table 40. Sensory evaluation form for unroasted cacao beans as coarse powder (Adapted from FCCI).
D
Sensory evaluation form for unroasted cacao beans as coarse powder

Jane Doe dd/mm/yy hh:mm – pm/am 000


Assessor name Date of evaluation Time of evaluation Sample code

SCORE (0-10) Core attributes


Cacao
Acidity (fruity, acetic, lactic, mineral, butyric)
Bitterness
Astringency

Complementary attributes
Fresh fruit (berry, citrus, dark, yellow/orange/white flesh, tropical)
Browned fruit (dried, brown, over ripe)
Vegetal (grassy/green herbal/herbal, earthy/mushroom, moss/woodsy)
Floral (orange blossom, flowers)
Woody (light or dark wood, resin)
Spice (spices, tobacco (dried tobacco leaves), savoury/umami)
Nutty (nut flesh and nut skins)
Caramel panela

Off-flavours
Mouldy
Smoky
Hammy
Dirty/dusty
Musty
Cardboard
Meaty
Rancid
Cheesy
Manure/Animal excrement
Leather
Sweaty
Putrid/wet decomposing vegetative matter
Rotten/decomposing fruit
Ammonia
Petroleum
Rubbery/sulphurous
Metallic
Phenolic
Medicinal
Chemical
Other off-flavours
Other off-flavours description
Global quality score

Comments

Part D | Sensory evaluation 125


Table 41. Calculations of the total scores for the flavour attributes of the Cacao of Excellence Sensory Evaluation Form.

Calculations of the Total Scores for the Flavour Attributes

SCORE (0-10) Core attributes


CACAO
ROAST DEGREE
BITTERNESS
ASTRINGENCY

TOTAL OF ALL TOTAL ACIDITY


SUB-ATTRIBUTES Fruit
Acetic
Lactic
Mineral and Butyric

Complementary attributes
CALCULATED FIELD: TOTAL FRESH FRUIT
100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Berry
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST Citrus
+33% OF 3RD Dark
+33% OF 4TH Yellow / Orange / White flesh
+33% OF 5TH Tropical

CALCULATED FIELD: TOTAL BROWNED FRUIT


100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Dried
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST Brown
+33% OF 3RD Over ripe

CALCULATED FIELD: TOTAL VEGETAL


100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Grassy/green vegetal/herbal
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST Earthy/mushroom – moss / woodsy

CALCULATED FIELD: TOTAL FLORAL


100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Orange blossom
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST Flowers

CALCULATED FIELD: TOTAL WOODY


100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Light wood
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST Dark wood
+33% OF 3RD Resin

CALCULATED FIELD: TOTAL SPICE


100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Spices
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST Tobacco (dried tobacco leaves)
+33% OF 3RD Savoury/umami

CALCULATED FIELD: TOTAL NUTTY


100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Nut flesh
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST Nut skins
CARAMEL / PANELA
SWEETNESS (Only for chocolate)

CALCULATED FIELD: Total off-flavours


100% OF HIGHEST SCORE Dirty/dusty
+75% OF 2ND HIGHEST
Musty
+33% OF 3RD
Mouldy
+33% OF 4TH
Meaty/animal/leather
+33% OF 5TH
Over fermented/rotten fruit
+33% OF 6TH
Putrid/manure
+33% OF 7TH
Smoky
+33% OF 8TH
Other off-flavour description
IF THE RESULT IS >10
IT IS ROUNDED TO 10 AS THE MAXIMUM GLOBAL QUALITY
Comments on flavour

126 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour Part D | Sensory evaluation 126
Part D | Sensory evaluation
127
Figure 21. User interface of the Excel version of the Cacao of Excellence Sensory Evaluation Form with the total scores of flavour attributes calculated (Cacao of Excellence 2023).
D
128 |
Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour
Figure 22. Format for the printed version of the Excel version of the Cacao of Excellence Sensory Evaluation Form (Cacao of Excellence 2023).
Table 42. Simplified list of flavour attributes for sensory evaluation of cacao beans processed into mass and chocolate
(Cacao of Excellence 2023).
D
Cacao of Excellence - simplified list of flavour attributes for sensory evaluation of
cacao beans processed into mass and chocolate 2023

Jane Doe dd/mm/yy hh:mm – pm/am 000


Assessor name Date of evaluation Time of evaluation Sample code

Score (0-10) Attributes


Cacao
Acidity (fruity, acetic, lactic, mineral, butyric)
Bitterness
Astringency
Fresh fruit (berry, citrus, dark, yellow / orange/white flesh, tropical)
Browned fruit (dried, brown, over ripe)
Vegetal (earthy, mushroom, moss, woodsy, green vegetal, herbal)
Floral (orange blossom, flowers)
Woody (light or dark wood, resin)
Spice (spices, tobacco (dried tobacco leaves), savoury/umami)
Nutty (nut flesh and nut skins)
Sweetness (only for chocolate)
Caramel / Panela
Roast degree
Off-flavours (dirty/dusty, musty, mouldy, meaty / animal / leather, over fermented / rotten fruit,
putrid / manure, smoky, other)
Off-flavours - others
GLOBAL QUALITY

Comments on flavour

Barry Callebaut

Part D | Sensory evaluation 129


20.4 Sensory evaluation data analysis and panel performance
20.4.1 Visualisation of flavour profile data
The result of the sensory evaluation can be expressed as a flavour profile for each cacao sample,
showing the attributes and sub-attributes intensity, any off-flavours and a global quality score as well as
comments. For conventional sensory flavour profiles, the results are obtained by the statistical analysis
of data generated by several assessors (panel) evaluating the same samples and flavour attributes.
Therefore, results of all individuals assessors in a panel is the mean and standard deviation of all the
scores. And the means are used to build a flavour graph that can be visualised in different forms.

Some examples are:

∙ Line graphs (Figure 23).

∙ Bar graphs (Figure 24).

∙ Radar plots or spider graphs (Figure 25).

∙ Cacao of Excellence flavour profile plots (Figure 26).

10
9
8
7
6
Intensity 5
4
3
2
1
0
y s y t t l l y y a s s
a cao cidit rnes enc h frui d frui geta Flora ood Spice Nutt anel tnes egree vour
C g
A itte rin res e Ve W / P e e d l a
B Ast F rown el Sw oast Off-F
B a ram R
C

Figure 23. Example of a line graph for a cacao mass flavour profile (Bioversity International, 2018).

10
9
8
7
6
Intensity 5
4
3
2
1
0
y s y t t l l y y a s s
cao cidit rnes enc h frui d frui geta Flora ood Spice Nutt anel tnes egree vour
Ca A itte ring res e Ve W P e e d l a
B Ast F rown l / Sw st -F
B r a me Roa Off
Ca

Figure 24. Example of a bar graph for a cacao mass flavour profile (Bioversity International, 2018).

130 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Off-flavours
Roast degree
10
9
Cacao D
8
Sweetness 7 Acidity
6
5
4
Caramel / Panela 3 Bitterness
2
1
0
Nutty Astringency

Spice Fresh fruit

Woody Browned fruit


Floral Vegetal

Figure 25. Example of a spider/radar graph for a cacao mass flavour profile (Bioversity International, 2018).

10
T˚ CACAO
ROAS
S 8
UR AC
VO ID
-FLA IT Y
F
OF 6

B IT
SS
NE

4 TE
E ET

R
NES
SW

S
2
ASTRIN
C A R AM E L /
PANELA

GENCY
R U IT
TY

SH F
NUT

FRE
IT D
RUWNE
SP

E
BR F
IC

WO L
ODY ETA
VEG
FLORAL

Figure 26. Example of the Cacao of Excellence flavour profile plot.

20.4.2 Considerations on sensory profiling obtained by consensus


For sensory evaluation flavour profiles based on consensus (as defined by ISO 13299:2016), once the
assessors have completed their individual evaluations, the panel leader or facilitator tabulates the
results and moderates a discussion to address any differences in evaluation. If necessary, samples
can be re-evaluated by the panel to reach a group consensus. A minimum of 4 assessors is required
for this process. It's important to note that there is generally less reproducibility across panels and
over time compared to quantitative flavour profiles that are obtained by calculating the mean and
standard deviation of all panel members' scores (as described in Section 20.4.1).

20.4.3 Performance analysis of sensory evaluation panel members


To ensure the consistency and reliability of sensory evaluation panels, it is crucial to analyse and
monitor their performance. This helps determine if they are aligned in their evaluations, possess the
ability to discriminate between samples effectively, and exhibit repeatability when assessing the
same sample blindly.

Part D | Sensory evaluation 131


Performance analysis can be achieved through the evaluation of blind replicates and an adequate
number of samples. Several software packages, such as Panel Check (panelcheck.com), are designed
for this purpose, focusing on assessing panel performance in terms of discrimination, repeatability
and alignment among assessors. Additionally, they provide sample flavour profiles (refer to Figure 23)
and offer descriptive and exploratory statistical analyses.

This information is valuable for providing objective feedback to panel members and for monitoring
improvements in specific flavour attributes, scale utilisation, and any other areas that may require
further alignment.

20.4.4 Documentation of sample processing and sensory evaluation conditions


An accurate and detailed description of the process of converting the cacao beans into cacao mass
or chocolate and any additional information is essential in order to interpret the results of the sensory
evaluation for comparison among samples and to communicate the results to cacao value chain
stakeholders.

In addition to the flavour profiles of the evaluated samples, it is important to record the conditions
in which the sensory evaluation was carried out as this affects the interpretation of the results. The
robustness of the evaluation process can be assessed based on various factors, including the type
of panel, the number of assessors, the use of replicates, and the inclusion of reference samples for
calibration purposes.

Tables 43 and 44 presents an example of the information that should be recorded on the process
of converting cacao bean samples evaluated into cacao mass or chocolate and the conditions of
sensory evaluation.

By diligently documenting such information, organisations can enhance the reliability and traceability
of their sensory evaluations, enabling them to make informed decisions based on the collected data.

Table 43. Information to be recorded for cacao sample processing.

Cacao samples processing information


Date of the sample preparation
Name of person that prepared the samples
Location of the sample preparation
Amount of beans processed per sample
For cacao mass - physical state for evaluation (melted or solid)
For chocolate - physical state for evaluation (melted or solid)
Type, brand and model of roasting oven
Temperature and time of roasting
Type, brand and model of grinder used
Number of samples evaluated
Number of unknown samples evaluated
Replicates (number times each cacao mass sample is evaluated)
Use of reference samples for calibration (yes/no or number)
Use of blind control samples (yes/no or number)
Comments

132 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Table 44. Information to be recorded for a sensory evaluation.
D
Sensory evaluation conditions
Date of the sample evaluation
Panel or individual evaluation
If a panel – name of the leader/facilitator
If a panel – number of assessors in the panel
If an individual - name of the assessor
Location of panel member (all in the same place or virtual)
Training level of assessors (advanced, intermediate, beginner)
Type of sensory profile (quantitative or consensus)
Number of sessions to evaluate all unknown samples
Time interval between samples
Comments

Belmont Estate Grenada

Part D | Sensory evaluation 133


134 |Neil Palmer
GuideCIAT
for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour
D

Part D | Sensory evaluation 135


Annexes
Annex 1. Steps for a randomised selection of specific bags in a lot

Step 1. Number the bags in the lot

1 4 7 10 13 16 19 22
2 5 8 11 14 17 20 23
3 6 9 12 15 18 21 24

25 28 31 34 37 40 43 46
26 29 32 35 38 41 44 47
27 30 33 36 39 42 45 48

49 52 55 58 61
50 53 56 59 62
51 54 57 60 63 64

Step 2. Calculate the number of bags to sample


Number of bags to sample = 30% x 64 = 20

Step 3. Generate random numbers


20 random numbers in the range 1–64

50 12 7 62 44 26 36 3 24 61

32 53 46 14 16 5 39 58 18 33

Step 4. Sample the bags corresponding to the numbers

1 4 7 10 13 16 19 22
2 5 8 11 14 17 20 23
3 6 9 12 15 18 21 24

25 28 31 34 37 40 43 46
26 29 32 35 38 41 44 47
27 30 33 36 39 42 45 48

49 52 55 58 61
50 53 56 59 62
51 54 57 60 63 64

Figure 27. Steps for a randomised selection of specific bags in a lot.

136 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Annex 2. Quartering process diagrams

Gather material into a cone Flatten the cone

Laboratory sample
New cycle

Discard Divide into quarters Divide in half

Figure 28. Diagram of quartering process (Harvey, 2013).

1 2

3 4
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
Bulk sample mixed Reduce sample Remove the two quarters
in the plastic bag with quartering tool diagonally (1 and 4)

5 6

7 8
Step 4 Step 5 Step 6
Mixed quarter 2 and 3 Reduce sample with quartering Separate the two quarters
tool for the second time diagonally (5 and 8)

9 10

11 12
Step 7 Step 8 Step 9
Mixed quarter 6 and 7 Final quartering Sample for analysis

Figure 29. Preparation of reference samples using a quartering tool (MS, 230:2007).

Annexes 137
Annex 3. Example of calculation of moisture content for oven method

A laboratory analyst carrying out moisture content determination on a sample of fermented and dried cacao beans
recorded the following data:

Mass (g) Trial #1 Trial #2


Empty dish with lid (m0 ) 21.1304 23.6706
Dish with lid + test sample before drying (m1 ) 31.1364 33.6881
Dish with lid + test sample after drying (m2 ) 30.4119 32.9558

To determine the moisture content, the following calculations are made using the formula:

100
moisture content = (m1 – m2 ) x
m1 – m0

For Trial #1
100
moisture content = (m1 – m2 ) x
m1 – m0
100
= (31.1364 – 30.4119) x
31.1364 – 21.1304
= 0.7245 x 9.9940

= 7.24%

For Trial #2
100
moisture content = (m1 – m2 ) x
m1 – m0
100
= (33.6881 – 32.9558) x
33.6881 – 23.6706
= 0.7323 x 9.9825

= 7.31%

The moisture content of this particular cacao sample is the mean or average of these two measurements:

MCTRIAL#1 + MCTRIAL#1
moisture content =
2
7.24% + 7.31%
=
2
= 7.28%

Therefore, the moisture content of the sample is 7.28

Figure 30. Sample calculation of moisture content.

138 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Table 45. Examples of moisture metres.

Brand Models Measuring Sample Measuring Accuracy Web Page


method size range

Aqua Boy ∙ KAM I Electrical ≈200g N/A ±0.1% aqua-boy.co.uk


conductivity
∙ KAM II 2–20% ±0.1%
∙ KAM IIIa 10–34% ±0.1%

Dickey-John ∙ mini GAC® 2500 149MHz – UGMA ≈450g 5–45% ±0.1% dickey-john.com
technology, internal
scale, temperature,
i.e. measurement
of dielectric constant
at frequency
near 149MHz

Wile ∙ Wile 200 Coffee Capacitive moisture ≤500g 3–18% ±0.6% wile.fi/en
sensing
∙ Wile Coffee & ≈70g 4–20% ±0.5%
Cocoa

AgraTronix ∙ Portable Coffee Capacitive moisture ≤80g 4–20% ±0.5% agratronix.com


Moisture Tester sensing
08150

Schaller ∙ Humimeter FS3 ∙ Equilibrium humidity ≈300g 0–40% ±0.4% humimeter.com/en


Messtechnik measurement
∙ Humimeter FS4 ∙ Infrared ≈450g 0–50% N/A

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

Annexes 139
Annex 4. Calculation of the standard deviation of the bean count
If needed, the standard deviation of the bean count can be calculated. This is an assessment of bean
size homogeneity of a given lot of cacao beans. The standard deviation calculation considers the
average number of beans per 100g for the entire lot and compares this against the overall variability of
bean sizes within the same lot. Standard deviations below ≤25 are expected. High standard deviation
values (>25) are indicative of a heterogeneous bean lot.

In order to obtain the standard deviation of the bean count.

∙ Number of beans per sieve and base (A, B, C, or D below):

number of beans in sieve


(A, B, C, or D) = x 100
weight of beans in sieve

∙ Weight of beans per sieve and base (P, Q, R, or S below):

weight of beans in sieve


(P, Q, R, or S) =
total weight of beans

∙ Total bean count per 100g (Z below):

Total number of beans in each sieve and base


Z= x 100
Total weight of beans in each sieve and base

Use the following formula to compute the standard deviation of the bean count test:

SD = ( P ( Z – A ) 2+ Q ( Z – B ) 2+ R ( Z – C ) 2+ S ( Z – D ) 2)

Where:
A = bean count/100g in 13mm round-holed sieve
B = bean count/100g in 11.5mm round-holed sieve
C = bean count/100g in 10.5mm round-holed sieve
D = bean count/100g in base
P = % bean-weight to total weight in 13mm round-holed sieve
Q = % bean-weight to total weight in 11.5mm round-holed sieve
R = % bean-weight to total weight in 10.5mm round-holed sieve
S = % bean-weight to total weight in base
Z = total bean count/100g

140 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


An example of a grading system that includes the standard deviation of the bean count is shown in
Table 46.

A sample of 600g of clean and sorted cacao beans was taken from the initial 2kg reference sample
and passed through three sieves of different mesh sizes to determine the standard deviation of the
bean count, and indicator of homogeneity of size in the lot, as shown in the Table 46 below.

Table 46. Example of variables for the calculation of the standard deviation.

Sieve Variable Unit Value


13mm Beans Mass (g) 240g
P Number of beans 192
A % 40%
Bean count 80 beans/100g

11.5mm Beans Mass (g) 280g


Q Number of beans 280
B % 47%
Bean count 100 beans/100g

10.5mm Beans Mass (g) 60g


R Number of beans 72
C % 10%
Bean count 120 beans/100g

Base Beans Mass (g) 20g


S Number of beans 30
D % 3%
Bean count 150 beans/100g

Total Beans Mass (g) 600g


Number of beans 574
Z Bean count 96 beans/100g
Standard deviation Bean count 16 beans/100g

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

Annexes 141
Annex 5. Examples of defective whole beans

a) Foreign matter b) Placenta

c) Flat beans d) Clusters

e) Broken beans f) Shells and bean fragments

g) Infested beans

Figure 31. Categories of cleaning loss in cacao beans: a) foreign matter b) placenta; c) flat beans; d) bean clusters; e) broken or cut
beans; f) shell and bean fragments; and g) infested beans (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

142 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Annex 6. Cut bean reference pictures

Figure 32. Typical colour of cacao beans with increasing degree of fermentation (from left to right) (Bioversity International, Archila,
2022).

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

Annexes 143
Cacao Cut Test Chart

Slightly Over Fermented

Well Fermented Well Fermented (Pale)

Slaty and Unfermented Slaty Turning Violet

Violet Violet Turning Brown

Partly Purple and Partly Brown

Mouldy Mouldy and Infested

cm
1 2 3

Figure 33. Examples of cut cacao beans at different stages of fermentation (Sukha and Rohsius, 2004).

144 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Figure 34. Increasing degree of cacao bean fissuring from top left to bottom right (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

Dolores Alvarado Bioversity International

Annexes 145
Annex 7. Examples of colour guides for picture taking

a) b)

c)

Figure 35. Colour reference tool for photographs of beans. a) MacBeth ColorChecker (Kresliln et al, 2014); b) Tiffen Color Control
Patches similar exist from other brands like Kodak, Fuji Film and others; and c) use of adapted colour reference tool for cut test
picture (Bioversity International, Alvarado, 2018 ).

146 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Annex 8. Cacao bean standards by country and organisation
Table 47. Comparison of bean grade according to existing standards (Beckett, 2009, End and Dand, 2015, US FDA, 2017).

CATEGORIES OF DEFECTS
Standards Bean grade/ Bean Mould Slaty Insect- Moisture Foreign
description count % % infested % matter
%

ISO 2451:2017 Grade I NSa, b 3 3 3 ≤7.50b 0.75%b


Grade II 4 8 6

FCCc Good fermented 100 per 5d 5 5d NSb <1.50%b, e


Fair fermented 100gb 10d 10 10d

CMAAf Ghana 1,000 4g 10 4g NS NS


per kg

FDA Acceptable NS 4 - 4 NS ≥10.00 mg/lbh

ASEAN Stan Extra Class NSb 3 3 2.5 <7.50b Practically


34:2014 free of waste
Class 1 3 5 3 <2.00%
Class 2 4 8 5 <2.50%

The Conseil Grade I 105 per 3 3 3j ≤8.00b ≤1.00b


Café Cacao, Grade II 100g 4 8 6j
Côte d’Ivoire
Sub-grade >4 >8 >6j

Key
a NS - Not Specified.

b Values are not distinct between grades.

c Federation of Cocoa Commerce (FCC) specifies that the beans shall be uniform in size, homogeneous and fit for the production of
foodstuffs. The beans must be virtually free from contamination, which includes smoky, hammy, or other off-flavour, taste, or smell.

d Maximum values for defectives (mouldy + infested).

e Value representing waste passing through 5mm sieve. Additionally, flat beans, bean clusters, and foreign matter must not be excessive.

f Cocoa Merchants’ Association of America (CMAA) specifies that hammy or smoky beans are not deliverable.

g Maximum amount of mould + infestation is 6% (US FDA Defect Action Levels).

h Criteria for recommending legal action.

i Maximum bean counts for primary and intermediate grades are 105 and 120, respectively.

j Other defects including insect infested.

Annexes 147
Table 48. Cacao bean grading standards by country (Dand and Scheu, 1995 published in UNCTAD and WTO, 2001).

148 |
Faults (by percentage)
Bean Count % Foreign
Country Standard authority Description per 100g Mould Slaty Infested Germinated Flat Violet Moisture matter Other specifications and comments

AFCC, from 1/1/99 Good fermented 100 (h) 5 5 (d) NS (i) NS (j) 1.5 Rejection possible if bean count above 120
Fair fermented 100 (h) 10 10 (d) NS (i) NS (j) 1.5 -
CAL, to be ratified Good fermented 100 (h) 5 5 (d) NS (k) NS (j) 1.5 -
Fair fermented 100 (h) 10 10 (d) NS (k) NS (j) 1.5 -

(a) FAO Model Ordinance Grade I (b) 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 To be of merchantable quality, all cacao must be free of foreign
odours, and must not be adulterated
Grade II (b) 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0

Brazil National Foreign Superior NS 4 2 (d) 2 (e) NS 8.0 SN Max of each individual defect 2%, sum not to exceed 4%
Trade Council
Good fair NS 6 4 (d) 4 (e) NS 8.0 NS Max of each individual defect 4%, sum not to exceed 6%
Sub-grade NS 8 8 5 10 (e) NS 8.0 1 Slight smoke odour admissible

Cameroon Office National du Grade I (b) 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 FAO Standards. To be of merchantable quality all cacao must be
Cacao et du Café free of foreign odours, and must not be adulterated

Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Grade II (b) 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 As for Grade I
Sub-standard - - - - - - - - Can only be marketed under special contract
(SS) cacao which
exceeds grade II
limits

Congo Office de Supérieure NS 3 3 3 3 3 NS NS NS Max. of 3% of infested, germinated or flat


Commercialisation du
Courante NS 4 8 6 6 6 NS NS NS Max. of 6% of infested, germinated or flat
Café et du Cacao
Limite NS NS 20 12 12 12 NS NS NS Bags of “supérieure” marked with 1 disk, “courante” with 2, and
“limite” with 3

Côte d'Ivoire Ministry of Agriculture Grade I Uniform 3 3 3 (c) (c) (c) 8.0 0 Lots must be of uniform colour and flavour, free of musty or
smoky flavour, max 10% in excess of or below average of 1/3 of
the average weight of the beans (grade 1 only)
Grade II NS 4 8 6 (c) (c) (c) 8.0 0 -
Sous-grade NS ------------------------------------------ Cacao which exceeds grade II limits --------------------------------------- Any cacao which does not meet grade 2 specs. Export prohibited
Faults (by percentage)
Bean Count % Foreign
Country Standard authority Description per 100g Mould Slaty Infested Germinated Flat Violet Moisture matter Other specifications and comments

Dominican Cocoa Department, Sánchez 159 4 NS 3 3 (e) NS 9.5 1 Smoky beans not permitted, max defect count on exportable
Republic Ministry of Agriculture cacao 6%
Hispaniola, Grade I 120 3 1 3 3 (e) 10 7.5 0 Cacao which does not meet grading standards must be marked
'stocklot' on the bags and documents, and may be sold on special
contract against sample only
Hispaniola, Grade II 130 3 3 3 3 (e) 15 7.5 0 -

Ecuador Ministry of Industry, ASSPS 71–74 0 5 0 0 0 10 NS 0 Arriba Superior Summer Plantation Selected
Commerce, etc. ASSS 75–77 1 9 (d) (d) (d) 15 NS 0 Arriba Superior Summer Selected
ASS 81–83 3 12 (d) (d) (d) 20 NS 0 Arriba Superior Selected
ASNS 81–83 2 13 (d) (d) (d) 25 NS 0 Arriba Superior Navidad Selected
ASW 80–91 5 18 (d) (d) (d) 25 NS 0 Arriba Superior W
ASES 80–83 2 18 (d) (d) (d) 30 NS 0 Arriba Superior Epoca Selected
ASE 91–95 6 30 (d) (d) (d) 25 NS 0 Arriba Superior Epoca

Gabon Natural 80–83 4 19 (d) (d) (d) 30 NS 0 May include 1% flat, 1% monilia (Monilina fructigena) damaged,
1% insect damaged and 1% black beans.
Supérieure NS 3 3 3 3 3 NS NS NS Max of 3% of infested, germinated or flat
Courant NS 4 8 6 6 6 NS NS NS Max. of 6% of infested, germinated or flat
Limite NS NS 20 12 12 12 NS NS NS -

Ghana Ministry of Agriculture Grade I NS 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 -


Grade II NS 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 -

Indonesia Indonesia Cocoa Grade AA I ≤85 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 To be of merchantable quality, all cacao must be free of foreign
Association Grade AA II ≤85 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 odours, and must not be adulterated
Grade A I ≤100 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 -
Grade A II ≤100 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 Live insects - none.
Grade B I 101–110 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 -
Grade B II 101–110 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 Broken beans, nib or shell <3%.
Grade C I 111–120 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 -
Grade C II 111–120 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 F' in the description denotes fine flavour.
Sub-grade ------------------------------------------- Cacao which exceeds Grade II limits ------------------------------------------- -

Annexes
149
150
Faults (by percentage)
Bean Count % Foreign

|
Country Standard authority Description per 100g Mould Slaty Infested Germinated Flat Violet Moisture matter Other specifications and comments

Malaysia Federal Agricultural SMC 1-A <100 3 3 2.5 (c) NS NS 7.5 0 Cacao showing live infestation (more than 10 insects per bag
Marketing Authority requires fumigation).
SMC 1-B 100–110 3 3 2.5 (c) NS NS 7.5 0 SMC stands for Standard Malaysia Cacao
SMC 1-C 110–120 3 3 2.5 (c) NS NS 7.5 0 -
SMC 2-A <100 4 8 2.5 (c) NS NS 7.5 0 -
SMC 2-B 100–110 4 8 2.5 (c) NS NS 7.5 0 -
SMC 2-C 110–120 4 8 2.5 (c) NS NS 7.5 0 -
Sub-standard >120 >4 >8 >5 - (c) NS NS NS -

Nigeria Federal Produce Grade I (b) 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 To be of merchantable quality, all cacao must be free of foreign
Inspection Service odours and must not be adulterated
Grade II (b) 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 -
Sub-standard ------------------------------------------- Cacao which exceeds Grade II limits ------------------------------------------- -

Papua Cocoa Export quality (d) 5 1 (d) (f) (f) NS 5.5–7.5 1 Board-approved fermentation/drying process free from foreign
New Guinea Board odours

Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Sierra Sierra Leone Produce Grade I <96 3 3 3 3 3 NS NS NS Max. 15% mould, slaty, infested, germinated or flat
Leone Marketing Board
Grade II <96 4 8 6 6 6 NS NS NS Max. 30% mould, slaty, infested, germinated or flat
Sub-grade ------------------------------------------- Cacao which exceeds Grade II limits ------------------------------------------- -

Solomon Commodities Export Grade I NS 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS NS 0 Cacao for export must be fermented, thoroughly dry, free from
Islands Marketing Authority abnormal or foreign odours and free from adulteration, reasonably
free from live insects, broken beans, fragments and pieces of shell
Grade II NS 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS NS 0

Togo Grade I (b) 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0 To be of merchantable quality, all cacao must be free of foreign
odours, and must not be adulterated
Grade II (b) 4 8 6 (c) (c) NS 7.5 0
Sub-standard ------------------------------------------- Cacao which exceeds Grade II limits ------------------------------------------- Can only be marketed under special contract
Faults (by percentage)
Bean Count % Foreign
Country Standard authority Description per 100g Mould Slaty Infested Germinated Flat Violet Moisture matter Other specifications and comments

Vanuatu Department of I–A <100 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.0 NS -


Agriculture -
I–B 101–120 3 3 3 (c) (c) NS 7.0 NS
II <120 4 <8 <6 (c) (c) NS 7.0 NS -
Sub-standard <120 5–10 8 6–20 (c) (c) NS 7.0 NS -
Inferior >200 >10 >50 >20 (c) (c) NS 7.0 NS -

United States Food and Drug FDA Defect Levels NS 4 NS 4 NS NS NS NS 0 Cacao must be sound, reasonably free of foreign matter or odour,
of America Administration Handbook free of live infestation and adulteration. Total defect count may
not exceed 6%

Western 1989 Cocoa Act Export Standard <100 5 5 (c) 5 (e) NS 5.5–7.5 1 Slaty, flat, broken, fragments, germinated or defective beans
Samoa should not exceed 5%. Free from foul and foreign odours

Democratic Bonne qualité <80 5 5 5 NS NS NS NS NS Max 10% of mould and infested


Republic of
the Congo
Courante 81–85 5 5 5 NS NS NS NS NS Max 10% of mould and infested

Key
NS Not Specified.
a This ordinance has been adopted by several countries, in some cases with modification, but it has not force of law per se.
b Not more than 12% of the beans should be outside the range of +/- one-third of the average weight.
c Included in insect infested.
d Included in mould.
e Included in germinated.
f Included in foreign matter.
g Detailed schedule of discounts according to bean size.
h If description includes ‘Main crop’.
i Flat beans shall be considered as defective beans only if the parcel is not subject to an allowance or replacement for bean count.
j Parcel must be dry.

Annexes
k Considered as cacao shell.

151
Annex 9. Adjustments in roasting time and temperature by cacao bean
size and moisture content
Table 49. Adjustments in roasting temperature (°C ) and time (minutes) by moisture content (%) and cacao bean size (bean count of
100g or average bean weight) (Cacao of Excellence Technical Committee, 2019).
For moisture content between 5.5 and 7.3%*
Temperature
(°C) BEAN MOISTURE CONTENT (%)
Time
(min) 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5 6.6 6.7 6.8 6.9 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3

-4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4
50 2.00
0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6
-4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4
55 1.82
-1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5
-3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3
60 1.67
-1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5
-3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3
65 1.54
-2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4
-2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2
70 1.43
-3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3
-2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2
75 1.33
-3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3
-2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2
80 1.25
-4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2
-1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1
85 1.18
-5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1
-1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1
90 1.11
-6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
95 1.05

AVERAGE BEAN WEIGHT (g)


-6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0
BEAN COUNT PER 100 g

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
100 1.00
-7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
105 0.95
-8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
110 0.91
-8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
115 0.87
-9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
120 0.83
-10 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
125 0.80
-11 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
130 0.77
-11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
135 0.74
-12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
140 0.71
-13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
145 0.69
-13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
150 0.67
-14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
155 0.65
-15 -15 -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
160 0.63
-16 -15 -15 -15 -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10

*For higher moisture contents see next page.

152 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Table for moisture content between 7.4 and 9.2%*
Temperature
(°C) BEAN MOISTURE CONTENT (%)
Time
(min) 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 7.8 7.9 8.0 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6 8.7 8.8 8.9 9.0 9.1 9.2

-4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4
50 2.00
+7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8 +9 +9 +9 +10 +10 +10 +11 +11 +11 +12 +12 +12 +13
-4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4
55 1.82
+6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8 +9 +9 +9 +10 +10 +10 +11 +11 +11 +12
-3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3
60 1.67
+5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8 +9 +9 +9 +10 +10 +10 +11 +11
-3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3
65 1.54
+4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8 +9 +9 +9 +10 +10 +10
-2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2
70 1.43
+4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8 +9 +9 +9 +10
-2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2
75 1.33
+3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8 +9 +9
-2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2
80 1.25
+2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8
-1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1
85 1.18
+2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8
-1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1
90 1.11
+1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
95 1.05

AVERAGE BEAN WEIGHT (g)


0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6
BEAN COUNT PER 100 g

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
100 1.00
-1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5 +5 +5
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
105 0.95
-1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4 +4 +5
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
110 0.91
-2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3 +4 +4
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
115 0.87
-3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3 +3 +3
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
120 0.83
-3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2 +2 +2 +3
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
125 0.80
-4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1 +1 +2
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
130 0.77
-5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0 +1 +1
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
135 0.74
-6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
140 0.71
-6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1 -1 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
145 0.69
-7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -1 -1
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
150 0.67
-8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
155 0.65
-9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3 -3 -3
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
160 0.63
-9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -7 -7 -7 -6 -6 -6 -5 -5 -5 -4 -4 -4 -3

*For lower moisture content see previous page.

Annexes 153
9.1 Example for adjusting the roasting conditions
In the previous tables, adjustments are indicated within the cell that corresponds to the intersection
of the moisture content (horizontal axis) and the bean size indicated as bean count per 100g (left
vertical axis) or bean size indicated as average bean weight (right vertical axis). Within the cell, the
top number represents the adjustment in temperature (in °C) while the bottom number represents
the adjustment in time (in minutes).

Table 50. Example: Beans with the following characteristics and basic roasting conditions.

Aroma from cut test No significant aroma notes perceived


Moisture content (%) 7.8
Bean count (# of beans in 100g) 65
Basic roasting conditions selected Full roast at 130°C (266°C) for 25 minutes

In the example from the table above, the information at the intersection of the moisture content and
bean count indicate a ‘-3’ at the top and a ‘+6’ at the bottom which mean that three degrees would
be deducted from the roasting temperature and six minutes would be added to the roasting time
resulting in 127°C for 31 minutes.

Temperature
(°C) BEAN MOISTURE CONTENT (%)
Time
(min) 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 7.8 7.9 8.0 8.1

-4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4
BEAN COUNT PER 100 g

50
+7 +7 +7 +8 +8 +8 +9 +9
-4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4 -4
55
+6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7 +8 +8
-3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3
60
+5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7 +7 +7
-3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 -3
65
+4 +5 +5 +5 +6 +6 +6 +7

Figure 36. Table reading of roasting time and temperature adjustments for cacao beans at 7.8% moisture and a count of 60 beans/100g.

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

154 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Annex 10. Use of micrometer to measure cacao mass particle size
The Vernier micrometer should cover the range of 0–25mm and have an accuracy of 0.001mm.

Measuring faces Vernier scale Thimble Ratchet


Lock
Spindle

Anvil

Frame
Sleeve scale
Sleeve
Heat insulated handle

Figure 37. Main parts of a standard Vernier micrometer.

The figure above describes the parts of a Vernier micrometer. The general procedure for using a
micrometer are detailed below. However, it is recommended to refer to the user manual specific to
the model of the micrometer to be used.

10.1 Setting the micrometer to zero


1. Open the micrometer between 1–1.5cm to access the measuring faces easily.

2. Clean both the top and bottom measuring faces with tissue paper or a soft paper towel.

3. Close the micrometer by spinning down the thimble.

4. When the space between the measuring faces is around 300µm, slow down the thimble spinning
speed and completely close the micrometer gradually and smoothly in a single smooth stroke.

5. Read the micrometer. It should read zero.

6. If the micrometer does not read zero, clean the measuring faces:

a. Open the micrometer.

b. Insert a clean sheet of printing paper.

c. Close the micrometer gently and pull the paper out.

7. Repeat the closing until it reads zero. If it still does not read zero, follow the user manual to
adjust the deviation.

Annexes 155
10.2 Measuring cacao mass particle size
1. Dilute a portion of liquid cacao mass with mineral oil in a proportion of 1:1 (weight/weight) and
mix on a warm white tale to separate the agglomerated particles as shown in the figure below.

1 2

3 4

5 6

Figure 38. Cacao mass preparation procedure using mineral oil, for measuring particle size with a micrometer (Bioversity International,
Archila, 2022).

156 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


2. Hold the micrometer in the vertical position so that the measuring faces are horizontally oriented
and the spindle is on the bottom. Place a drop of the cacao mass oil mixture on the spindle
measuring face.

3. Close the micrometer by spinning down the barrel.

4. When the space between the anvil and spindle is around 300µm, slow down the barrel spinning
speed and close the micrometer gradually and smoothly in a single smooth stroke.

5. Read the values. The steps to read values are described in 10.3.1 and 10.3.2 below.

10.3 Analogue micrometer


In an analogue micrometer the values indicated in each scale are added to obtain the measurement.
Figure 39 and Figure 40 show two examples of readings with a standard and high precision Vernier
micrometer.

C=0.009

Value=A+B+C
A = 0.000
B = 0.01 0
C = 0.009 +
0.019mm
or 19µm

A=0.00 B=0.010

Figure 39. Reading analogue micrometers with 0.001mm resolution. Standard Vernier micrometer (stefanelli.eng.br/es).

Value=A+B+C+D
A = 0.000
B = 0.000
C = 0.0 10
D = 0.003 +
0.023mm
or 23µm

A=0 D=0.003 C=0.01 B=0.0

Figure 40. Reading analogue micrometers with 0.001mm resolution: high-precision Vernier micrometer (Seguine, 2014).

Annexes 157
The steps to read measurements in a standard and high precision micrometer with Vernier are as
follows:

10.3.1 For a standard Vernier micrometer (Figure 39):


1. Read value A, in 1mm units, using the scale on the sleeve; the value is indicated by the last
line before the thimble starts.

2. Read value B, in 0.010mm units, using the scale on the thimble. The value is indicated by the
closest line that is below the zero line of the sleeve scale.

3. Read value C, in 0.001mm units, using the Vernier scale on the sleeve. The value is indicated
by the line that perfectly matches one line of the thimble.

4. Add the values A, B and C to get the total measurement.

10.3.2 For a high-precision Vernier micrometer (Figure 40):


1. Read value A, in 1mm units, using the scale on the sleeve. The value is indicated by the last
line before the thimble starts.

2. Read value B, in 0.1mm units, directly on the numerical display that is on or right below the
zero line (on the left).

3. Read value C, in 0.01mm units, using the scale on the right of the thimble. The value is indicated
by counting the small lines between the zero line (on the left) and the next numbered (long)
line.

4. Read value D, in 0.001mm units, using the scale on the left part of the thimble. The value is
indicated by the first line that perfectly matches one line of the left scale.

5. Add the values A, B, C and D to get the total measurement.

10.4 Digital micrometer


In a digital micrometer, read the total value on the display (Figure 72c). There are some digital micrometers
where the third decimal place (0.001mm units) is only readable in the Vernier scale (Figure 72d).

NOTE: In all cases, once the use has been completed, turn off the micrometer and use a tissue paper or soft paper
towel to clean micrometer measuring faces. If needed, a sheet of printing paper.

Dolores ALvarado Bioversity International

158 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Annex 11. Examples of calculation of ingredients for chocolate processing
Using desired total amount of chocolate as basis for calculation:

Definition of variables Formula


∙ wCHOCOLATE : weight of chocolate amount to be produced (g)
w
∙ p: percentage of ingredient as given in formula (%) w = CHOCOLATE xp
100
∙ w : weight of ingredient (g)

Example: You will produce 3000.0g of chocolate with the recipe indicated in Table 31, Section 14.4.1..

∙ wCHOCOLATE = 3000.0g
wCHOCOLATE 3000.0g
∙ Cacao mass w = x p = x 63.00 = 1890.0g
100 100
wCHOCOLATE 3000.0g
∙ Sugar w = xp= x 30 = 900g
100 100
wCHOCOLATE 3000.0g
∙ Cacao buter w = xp= x 7 = 210g
100 100

Figure 41. Ingredient calculation examples with total desired amount of chocolate as the basis.

Calculating the ingredients for chocolate processing using the desired total amount of chocolate as
a basis, is as follows::

Definition of variables Formula


∙ wCM: weight of cacao mass (g)
∙ pCM: percentage of cacao mass as given in formula (%)
wCM
w= xp
∙ w: weight of ingredient (g) 100
∙ p: percentage of ingredient as given in formula (%)

Example: You have 2150.0g of cacao mass in the melanger and will produce chocolate with it using the recipe
indicated in Table 31, Section 14.4.1.
∙ wCM = 2150.0g
wCM 2150.0g
∙ Cacao butter w = xp= x 7 = 238.9g
pCM 63
wCM 2150.0g
∙ Sugar w = xp= x 30 = 1023.8g
pCM 66

∙ The total amount of chocolate to be produced is the sum of all ingredients:


= 2150.0g + 238.9 + 1023.8 + = 3412.7g

Figure 42. Ingredient calculation examples with cacao mass as the basis.

Annexes 159
Annex 12. Heating and cooling chocolate manually during tempering
process

Table 51. Options for heating and cooling chocolate manually: advantages and disadvantages.

Option Heating Cooling Advantages Disadvantages

1 Hot water-bath Marble slab 1 Very fast 1 Risk of getting drops of water
2 Heating is continuous into chocolate while cooling
3 You can continuously control 2 Cooling takes longer than with
the temperature while heating marble slab
4 You can continuously stir
sample while heating

2 Hot water-bath Cool water- 1 Heating is gradually and 1 Risk of getting drops of water
bath continuous into chocolate while cooling
2 You can continuously control 2 Cooling takes longer than with
the temperature while heating marble slab
3 You can continuously stir
sample while heating
4 You have a better control of
temperature while cooling
5 Applicable at any room
temperature

3 Microwave Marble slab 1 Fast 1 If room temperature is over


2 No water is used, so no risk 20°C (68°F) the marble slab
of water drops to fall into can get warm and no longer
chocolate cool the chocolate, or take a
long time
2 Risk of burning sample
3 It is not possible to control the
temperature continuously

4 Microwave Cool water- 1 Better control of temperature 1 Applicable at any room


bath while cooling temperature
2 Risk of burning sample
3 Control of temperature while
heating is only possible
between heating intervals

160 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Annex 13. Tempering troubleshooting

Table 52. Troubleshooting for the tempering process.

Problem Probable solution

The chocolate burned ∙ The burned chocolate is unrecoverable. Throw it away or use it
while heating it in the microwave for baking.
∙ Reduce the time of the heating intervals.

Heating the chocolate ∙ If the chocolate is not burned (smells burned and/or small hard particles
above 50°C (122°F) while melting formed) just continue the process.

Drops of water fell ∙ Try to spoon out the chocolate surrounding the water drops. If not possible,
into melted chocolate continue working if the chocolate is still fluid but it is likely that the temper
will not be homogeneous.
∙ If the chocolate is not fluid enough, you will not be able to recover it.
∙ Throw it away or use it for baking or beverages.

Cooling the chocolate ∙ Continue heating it to 31–33°C (87.8–91.4°F). The process will take longer,
below 26–27°C (78.8–80.6°F) the time will depend on how cold the chocolate was.
while tempering with
the cooling method

Heating the chocolate ∙ Start over. Melt it completely heating it to 45–50°C (113–122°F) and
above 33°C (91.4°F) repeat the process.
while tempering with
the cooling method

Water drops appeared on the ∙ The possible causes are:


chocolate pieces after taking them » Air humidity is too high
out of the fridge
» Room temperature is too high
» The chocolates were cooled beyond the time needed to just solidify.
∙ Dry the chocolates with a paper towel. These will lose the temper soon
and are not recoverable.
∙ For your next batch:
» Check the room humidity and temperature. Set them to <70% RH and
18–20°C (64.4–68°F)
∙ If you cannot change the humidity and temperature conditions of the
room, try to cool the chocolates only for one minute and then take them
out. Identify the coolest place in the room and leave them there until
they solidify.

Annexes 161
Annex 14. All equipment, tools and materials
The equipment, tools and materials described in sections A, B, C and D are pictured below for visual
purposes.

14.1 Sampling equipment, tools and materials

a)

Diameter Ø2,8cm

10cm 23cm 2cm 3cm

b)

36cm

c)

d)

Figure 43. Examples of spears for sampling beans in bags (a, b and c) and for sampling of bulk beans (d). (ISO, 2292:2017).

Figure 44. Examples of sampling scoops for bulk sampling.

162 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Figure 45. Examples of weighing scales with at least 2kg capacity: a) analog and b) digital. (soehnle-professional.com/en; mt.com).

a) b)

Figure 46. Example of (a) stainless steel and (b) plastic storage vessels for preparing the composite sample from primary or incremental
samples. Storage containers must be equipped with lids to minimise moisture loss/gain, foreign odour/off-odour absorption, and
insect and/or rodent infestation. (sampling.com; mannlakeltd.com).

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

Annexes 163
400mm

100mm

100mm
400mm

200mm
Receptacle

200mm
Groove to place Opening for stopper
receptacle on container

300mm

100mm

200mm

300mm Container with number

Figure 47. Interior of a quartering tool showing the quartering irons (MS, 230:2007).

Table 53. Examples of specifications for a sampling spear for bagged and bulk sampling (ISO 2292:2017).

Parameters Sampling from bags Sampling from bulk

Length From 35 to 45cm From 150 to 250cm


Diameter (inside) From 2.8 to 3.0cm From 3.5 to 4.1cm
Diameter (outside) From 3.0 to 3.2cm From 3.6 to 4.2cm
Thickness Max 2mm Max 2mm
Weight Approximately 230g No recommendation
Material Aluminium/alloy Aluminium
Angle Approximately 20° If applicable approx. 20°

Table 54. Examples of specifications for handheld sampling scoops for bulk sampling (Sampling Systems Ltd., 2018).

Nominal Body width Body length Overall length


Part No. capacity (g) (mm) (mm) (mm)

A643-100 100 60 115 180


A643-200 200 75 135 205
A643-300 300 90 150 230
A643-500 500 110 180 270

164 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Table 55. Examples of specifications for stainless steel storage vessels for composite samples (Sampling Systems Ltd., 2018).

304 Stainless steel 316L Stainless steel Nominal Height Diameter


Part No. Part No. capacity (kg) (mm) (mm)

A434-1 A446-1 1.0 155 100


A434-2 A446-2 2.0 175 130
A434-3 A446-3 3.0 185 155
A434-5 A446-5 5.0 240 175
A434-6 A446-6 6.0 280 175
A434-8 A446-8 8.0 285 200
A434-10 A446-10 10.0 295 220
A434-12 A446-12 12.5 285 240
A434-15 A446-15 15.0 285 270

14.2 Equipment, tools and materials for assessing moisture content

b)

a) c)

Figure 48. a) oven, b) desiccator; and c) metal dishes, for meaning moisture content using the oven-drying method (matest.com;
coleparmer.co.uk; certifiedmtp.com).

Annexes 165
a) b)

Figure 49. a) Cacao-specific moisture metre Aqua-Boy KAM III with cup electrode 202 and b) stab electrode 209 b, cable and
holder. (aqua-boy.co.uk).

Table 56. Specifications for Aqua-Boy KAM III moisture metre


(Enercorp Instruments Ltd, 2008).

Built-in scale 2%–20%


Size 6 5/8x 4 1/2 x 2’
Length 170mm
Width 115mm
Height 50mm
Power source 1x9V Battery
Accuracy ±0.1%
Reproducibility 0.2%
Display Analogue
Neil Palmer CIAT

Table 57. Specifications for Dickey-John Mini GAC 2500 moisture metre (Dickey-John, 2017).

Operating temperature range 5–45°C (40–113°F)


Validated grain temperature range 5–45°C (40–113°F
Operating grain temperature range 0–50°C (32–122°F)
Recommended maximum temperature 20°C (36°F)
difference) between analyser and grain)
Humidity 5–95%, non-condensing
Weight 1.1kg (2lb 7oz)
Power source A 9V alkaline battery is included. A low battery indicator on the
display will identify when replacement is necessary.

166 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Figure 50. Dickey-John Mini GAC 2500 moisture metre with Figure 51. Wile Coffee and Cocoa moisture metre (wile.fi).
loader (dickey-john.com).

Table 58. Specifications for Wile Coffee and Cocoa moisture metre (Farmcomp Oy, 2011).

Range moisture measurement 1%–38%


Repeatability +/-0,5 moisture percent
Power source 9V battery of the type 6F22 or a similar alkaline battery is included. The metre
gives a warning about the low battery voltage
Calculation Average calculation
Memory capacity Average calculation memory maximum 99 results

14.3 Equipment, tools and materials for determining cleaning loss and bean size

K. Archila Bioversity International

Figure 52. Example of an electronic top-loading scale for


weighing the samples (soehnle-professional.com/en).

Annexes 167
a) b)

Figure 53. a) Test sieve for separating cacao beans from dirt particles; b) mechanical sieve shaker for bean size distribution
measurement and analysis (lavallab.com).

Table 59. Sieve mesh size comparison chart of screens appropriate for cleaning of cacao beans (Gilson Company Inc., 2018).

ASTM E11 ISO 3310-1:2016


Standard (mm) Alternate (in) Size (mm)

16.0 5/8" 16.0


- - 14.0
13.2 0.530" 13.2
12.5 1/2" 12.5
11.2 7/16" 11.2
- - 10.0
9.5 3/8" 9.5
- - 9.0
8.0 5/16" 8.0
- - 7.1
6.7 0.265" 6.7
6.3 1/4" 6.3
5.6 No.3 1/2" 5.6
- - 5.0
4.75 No.4 4.75
- - 4.50
4.00 No.5 4.00
3.55 - 3.55

168 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


14.4 Equipment, tools and materials for performing cut tests

Figure 54. Example of cutting beans individually with a knife (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

Figure 55. Examples of classification boards for cut beans (Neuhaus, 2006; Neuhaus, 2007).

a) b) c) d)

e) f) g) h)

Figure 56. Example of bean cutting procedure using a Magra 14 guillotine cutter from Teserba (teserba.ch).

Annexes 169
14.5 Equipment, tools and materials for roasting

a) b)

Figure 57. a) Image of Binder® Oven FD 56 closed and b) open. Notice the symmetrical position of the trays above and below the
fan opening (binder-world.com).

Table 60. Examples of ovens that comply with the recommended specifications.

Brand Model Website


Gemmy YCO-010 gemmy.com.tw
Binder FD 56 / FD 53 binder-world.com
France Etuves XU 112 france-etuves-store.com

Table 61. Specifications for the Binder® Oven FD 56 as an example (Binder GmbH, 2017).

Parameter Specification
Type Forced convection
Variable control Temperature and time digital setting
Temperature range Ambient +10–300°C (+50–572°F)
Temperature variation at 150°C (302°F) 1.7°C (3.6°F)
Temperature fluctuation at 150°C (302°F) ±0.3°C (±0.6°F)
Recovery time after 30 seconds door open at 150°C (302°F) 4 minutes
Temperature uniformity ≤3.0°C (≤5.4°F)
Internal dimensions 400 width×345 depth×440 height (in mm)
Tray quantity 2–4
Tray positions Symmetrically above and below the fan opening

170 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


a) b)

c) d)

Figure 58. a) Original Binder ® oven tray; b) same tray screen covered; c) detail of screen frame corner; d) back of adapted tray.
Notice the edge lips that allow the entire tray to be used for roasting but not risk any beans falling off (Seguine, 2014).

a) b)

Figure 59. Other stainless steel wire roasting trays adapted to suit the area of the oven tray (a) Sukha and Ali, 2016; b) Bioversity
International, Archila, 2022.

Annexes 171
Figure 60. Differences in screen open area are defined by two parameters: mesh size and wire diameter.
(metalmesh.com.au/glossary/).

Table 62. Standard specifications for a square wire mesh that are compliant with the ISCQF standards for constructing mesh-type
oven trays (Metals Service Center Institute, 2022).

Mesh size Wire diameter Opening size Open area


(mm) (mm) (mm x mm) (%)

3x3 1.2 7.3x7.3 74%


1.0 7.4x7.4 77%
0.9 7.5x7.5 80%
0.8 7.6x7.6 82%

4x4 1.2 5.2x5.2 66%


1.0 5.3x5.3 70%
0.9 5.5x5.5 74%
0.8 5.5x5.5 76%
0.7 5.6x5.6 79%
0.6 5.7x5.7 81%

5x5 1.0 4.0x4.0 63%


0.9 4.2x4.2 68%
0.8 4.3x4.3 71%
0.7 4.4x4.4 74%
0.6 4.4x4.4 77%
0.6 4.5x4.5 78%

6x6 0.9 3.4x3.4 63%


0.8 3.4x3.4 66%
0.7 3.5x3.5 70%
0.6 3.6x3.6 73%
0.6 3.7x3.7 75%
0.5 3.7x3.7 78%

172 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Table 63. Examples of commercial wire mesh that can be used for constructing oven trays.

Manufacturer Construction Primary Mesh size Opening size Wire diameter Open area (%) Web page
type material (mm x mm) (mm x mm) (mm)

McNICHOLS Welded Galvanised steel 4x4 5.7x5.7 0.6 81 mcnichols.com


Woven Galvanised steel 4x4 5.7x5.7 0.6 81
Woven Stainless steel 4x4 5.6x5.6 0.7 79
Welded Stainless steel 4x4 5.5x5.5 0.8 76
Woven Stainless steel 4x4 5.5x5.5 0.9 74
Woven Aluminum 4x4 5.2x5.2 1.2 66

EDWARD Welded Stainless steel 3x3 7.5x7.5 1.0 79 catalog.darbywiremesh.com


J. DARBY Woven / Welded Plain steel / Carbon steel 3x3 7.3x7.3 1.2 74
& SON INC.
Woven Bronze 4x4 5.5x5.5 0.9 74
Welded Stainless steel 3x3 7.3x7.3 1.2 74
Woven / Welded Plain steel / Carbon steel 4x4 5.3x5.3 1.0 70
Woven Aluminum 5x5 4.2x4.2 0.9 68
Woven / Welded Plain steel / Carbon steel 4x4 5.2x5.2 1.2 66

MCMASTER-CARR Woven Galvanised steel 6x6 3.7x3.7 0.5 78 mcmaster.com


Welded Stainless steel 3x3 7.3x7.3 1.2 74
Woven Stainless steel 4x4 5.5x5.5 0.9 74
Woven Copper 4x4 5.2x5.2 1.2 66
Woven Brass 4x4 5.2x5.2 1.2 66
Woven Stainless steel 6x6 3.4x3.4 0.9 63

Annexes
173
Figure 61. Example of cooling tray with fan attached at the bottom (cocoatown.com).

14.6 Equipment, tools and materials for breaking and winnowing

a) b)

Figure 62. Semi-manual method of winnowing cacao beans. a) Rolling pin, b) hair dryer (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

Figure 63. Diagram of a self-made winnower using pipes and accessories is activated using a vacuum cleaner. More detailed
information can be found at chocolatealchemy.com/.

174 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


a) b)

Figure 64. CAPCO stainless steel equipment for a) breaking and b) winnowing cacao beans (capco.co.uk).

Table 64. Equipment specifications and procedure for using CAPCO breaker and winnower (Castlebroom Engineering Ltd, 2020).

CAPCO BREAKER

Attributes Specifications
Dimensions LxWxH (cmxcmxcm) 42x47x45
Weight (kg) 36
Capacity (kg/h) 15–20
Electrical power 0.25kW motor available in 220/240V 1 phase 50Hz or with 110V 1 phase
60Hz
Construction materials Cast iron, stainless steel, brass (inlet hopper and outlet chute from
stainless steel, if required)
Procedure for use 1. Switch on the power.
2. Slowly feed the cacao beans into the inlet hopper that passes into an
internal rotating roller.
3. Adjust the breaking blocks and rollers to apply just the necessary force
needed to shear the beans and avoid unnecessary crushing.
4. Collect the broken beans that fall into the collection tray.
5. Switch off the power, and unplug the equipment to ensure safety.
6. Using a brush and tissue paper, clean the funnel and collection tray
between samples. Spin the wheels to ensure complete removal of small
bean and pieces of shell. It is recommended to disassemble the front
breaker plate and hand brush the teeth of the breaker.

Annexes 175
CAPCO WINNOWER

Attributes Specifications
Dimensions LxWxH (cmxcmxcm) 17x37x50/38x64x92
Weight (kg) 8/25
Capacity (kg/h) 5–10/15–20
Electrical power 16W/75W motor available in 220/240V 1 phase 50Hz or with 110V 1 phase
60Hz
Construction materials Mild steel or fully stainless steel
Procedure for use 1. Switch on the power.
2. Slowly feed the broken cacao beans into the winnower.
3. Drop them on the left-hand side of the square funnel. This allows the
beans to pass through the sloped side of the funnel and into the body
of the machine, which improves the winnowing efficiency. Use the
adjustment knob to get the best separation of shell with minimum
nib loss.
4. It takes ~3min to feed 400g of broken cacao beans into the winnower.
5. Collect the nibs and shells that fall into separate reception trays.
6. Winnowing should be carried out in a separate room, as this winnower
blows dust out and may pose food safety concerns.
NOTE: Depending on the result (how much shell remains among the nibs),
it is possible to feed the machine slower or faster, depending on better
or less optimal separation results. The process can be repeated several
times, if necessary.
7. Inspect the outgoing nibs for the presence of unremoved shells. Some
remaining shells may remain. Therefore, use a pair of tweezers to remove
the remaining shells completely. Pay particular attention to shells that
remain stuck to the nibs.
8. Store the nibs until further use.

a) b)

Figure 65. CocoaTown™ cacao bean crackers a) Manual Cracker; and b) Power Cracker (cocoatown.com).

176 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


b)

a) c)

Figure 66. a) CocoaTown™ Basic Winnower and the 1 metering devices (feeders); b) manual metering device is included by default
or c) optional motorized metering device (cocoatown.com).

Table 65. Equipment specifications for CocoaTown™ bean cracker (manual cracker and power cracker) and winnower as an example
(CocoaTown, 2022).

COCOATOWN™ MANUAL CRACKER

Attributes Specifications
Dimensions LxWxH (cmxcmxcm) 63.5x43.2x35.6
Weight (kg) 24
Electrical frequency 50Hz, 60Hz
Voltage 110V, 220V
Other features Cracks 15kg/hour; all stainless steel construction, easy to clean
Procedure for use 1. Switch on the power.
2. Feed the cacao beans into the funnel of the breaker.
3. Collect the broken beans from the discharge point of the breaker and
onto a receiving tray.
4. Using a brush and tissue paper, clean the equipment starting from the
funnel, making sure to spin the roller as small pieces of shells and beans
are removed. To clean stuck nibs between the teeth of the breaker rolls,
use a spatula and hand rotate the breaker rolls.

Annexes 177
COCOATOWN™ BASIC WINNOWER

Attributes Specifications
Dimensions LxWxH (cmxcmxcm) 63.5x46x38
Weight (kg) 21
Electrical frequency 50Hz, 60Hz
Voltage 110V, 220V
Other features 1000W Vacuum, separates 99% shell in single pass, includes manual
metering device and can be up-graded to a motorized one
Procedure for use 1. Switch on the power.
2. Adjust the feeder setting rate if the unit is equipped with an automatic
feeder.
3. Slowly feed the broken cacao beans into the winnower funnel.
4. Adjust the vacuum settings as needed to achieve the best separation
between shells and nibs.
5. Collect the nibs falling through the discharge opening. Shells are
automatically collected in the bin at the bottom of the air discharge
cyclone.
6. For best separation, repeat the winnowing as needed.
7. Using a brush and tissue paper, clean the equipment starting from
the funnel, making sure to spin the roller as small pieces of shells and
beans are removed.
8. Inspect the outgoing nibs for the presence of unremoved shells. Some
remaining shells may remain. Therefore, use a pair of tweezers to remove
the remaining shells completely. Pay particular attention to shells that
remain stuck to the nibs.
9. Store the nibs for further use. See Section 12.4.6.

Specifications
Brand Air Crazy
Capacity 3.3litres (3.5 quarters)
Popping mechanism Hot air

Figure 67. Example of hot air popcorn maker as an optional apparatus to loosen shells from the bean (westbend.com).

178 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


14.7 Equipment, tools and materials for liquefying and chocolate processing

a) CocoaTown b) Spectra

c) Premier d) Ultra

Figure 68. Examples of table top melanger-type grinders of different brands on the market a) cocoatown.com;
b) spectramelangers.com; c) melangers.com; d) chocolatemelangeur.com.

a) b)

Figure 69. Inside the melanger: a) view of stone grinder assembly inside the empty stone bowl; b) view of the melanger bowl while
grinding cacao nibs into cacao mass. (chocolatemelangeur.com; chocolatealchemy.com).

Annexes 179
a) Retsch® pestle and mortar mill b) Capco® triple roll mill

c) Cacao Cucina® ball mill

Figure 70. Other equipment to grind cacao nibs into cacao mass a) retsch.com; b) capco.co.uk; c) memet.com.

a) b) c)

Figure 71. Example of grinders that can be used for pregrinding cacao nibs: a) coffee electric blade mill grinder; b) blade mill grinder;
c) Champion® juicer grinder (krups.com; elgiultra.com; championjuicer.com).

180 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


a) High precision analogue micrometer b) Standard analogue micrometer

c) Electronic digital micrometer d) Micrometer with Vernier and digital display

Figure 72. Examples of micrometers ranging between 0-25mm with 0.001mm resolution. a) hahn-kolb.de; b) and c)
tesatechnology.com; d) mitutoyo.co.jp.

Kathya Archila Bioversity International

Figure 73. Infrared thermometer (etekcity.com).

Annexes 181
14.8 Equipment, tools and materials for tempering chocolate

a) b)

c) d)

Figure 74. Hot water-bath (bain-marie): a) example of proper hot water bath; b) bowl has to fit tightly in the pot without gap in
between; c) between the pot and bowl there should be no gap (due to risk of exposure of water steam to chocolate) and stove
should be turned off while melting chocolate to prevent burning of chocolate; d) electrical melter with same function (Bioversity
International, Alvarado, 2022; lacor.es).

a) b)

Figure 75. a) Digital vs. b) analog microwave. The timer in analog microwaves is not precise enough to adjust time intervals shorter
than a minute and therefore is not adequate for tempering. (lg.com).

182 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Figure 76. Tempering on a marble slab (pixabay.com)

a) b)

Figure 77. a) Cold water-bath. If the environmental air temperature is too hot, ice can be added to the bath (b) cold water ice can
be added (Bioversity International, Alvarado, 2022).

a) b) c)

Figure 78. Examples of digital thermometers: a) infrarred thermometer; b) stem thermometer; c) probe thermometer (etekcity.com;
coleparmer.co.uk; hannainst.com).

Annexes 183
a) b) c)

Figure 79. Spatulas for tempering: a) thermoresistant flexible spatula (wilton.com); b) scraper spatula (matferbourgeatusa.com);
c) icing spatula (wilton.com).

Barry Callebaut

Figure 80. Heat gun (bosch-professional.com).

184 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


a) b)

Figure 81. Semi automatic tempering machines: a) rotating wheel tempering machine; b) rotating bowl tempering machine.
(perfectchoco.com; chocovision.com).

Figure 82. Fully automatic tempering machine for small Figure 83. Example of cacao butter to use in the seeding
quantities (pomati.it). method (pixabay.com).

Barry Callebaut

Annexes 185
14.9 Equipment tools and materials for the sensory evaluation of unroasted cacao
beans

Figure 84. Examples of nutcrackers (foodal.com).

a) b)

Figure 85. Example of electric blade mill grinder. a) Krups F203 coffee grinder viewed from the side and b) from the top (krupsusa.com).

a) b)

Figure 86. Example of a burr grinder. a) GSI outdoors Java Mill portable coffee grinder ready for use and b) its parts (gsioutdoors.com).

186 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


a) b) c)

Figure 87. Examples of containers of 200–240ml (¾ –1 cup) capacity with lid to store for up to 3 hours and hold coarse powder of
unroasted cacao beans for sensory evaluation. a) specialtybottle.com; b) ravennindia.com; c) firatmed.com.

14.10 Equipment, tools and materials for cacao mass sensory evaluation

Figure 88. Appearance of solid cacao mass stored inside diferent airtight containers (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

a) b)

Figure 89. a) Appearance of solid cacao mass stored as a bar in vacuum-sealed bag and b) portioned in 1–2g drops (Bioversity
International, Archila, 2022).

Annexes 187
a) b)

Figure 90. Example of 28ml cups: a) plastic with lid, b) glass with alumina paper lid to hold cacao mass sample. (Bioversity
International, Archila, 2022).

a) b)

Figure 91. Examples of heating equipment for sensory evaluation: laboratory dry block heaters with heated lid; a) normal size and
b) smaller size (ohaus.com; uk.vwr.com).

Figure 92. Example of heating equipment for cacao mass sensory evaluation: a Figure 93. Example of a thermos to keep
warming plate (labotect.com). water warm at 40–50°C for the cacao mass
sensory evaluation (bunn.com).

188 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


a) b) c)

Figure 94. Examples of heating equipment for cacao mass sensory evaluation: a) heating oven (matest.com); b) food dehydrator
(gourmia.com); c) laboratory water bath or bain-marie (fishersci.es).

Dolores Alvarado Bioversity International

Annexes 189
List of tables
Page

24 Table 1. Key parameters and specifications for all protocols.

26 Table 2. Guidelines for Good Hygienic and Manufacturing Practices for cacao quality and flavour (Bioversity
International\Dolores Alvarado, 2022 based on FAO and WHO, 2020.

28 Table 3. Basic principles of the HACCP approach (US FDA, 2017; Velmourougane et al., 2014).

31 Table 4. Optimal temperature and relative humidity for storing cacao products to maintain quality and flavour.

33 Table 5. Key specifications for sampling.

36 Table 6. Guide to sampling bagged cacao beans by lot size (assumption: bag weight of 65kg).

39 Table 7. Minimum sampling points for taking incremental samples from a wagon or vehicle based on the
amount of beans contained.

42 Table 8. Example of information to be recorded on a bean lot.

46 Table 9. Key specification for the determination of moisture content.

50 Table 10. Measurement of moisture content by oven-drying method.

50 Table 11. Measurement of moisture content using a moisture metre.

51 Table 12. Key specifications for the physical evaluation of whole cacao beans.

53 Table 13. Classification of beans by size based on bean count/100g (ISO 2451:2017). National regulations
may differ.

54 Table 14. Example of grading allowances for cacao beans following a quality assessment (ICE, 2017). National
grading systems may vary according to national laws or agreements with client.

55 Table 15. Data to be recorded for sieving, cleaning loss and yields of clean beans.

55 Table 16. Data to be recorded for the bean count and the average bean weight as indicators of bean size.

55 Table 17. Data to be recorded for the appearance and aroma of whole beans.

56 Table 18. Key specifications for the physical evaluation of cut cacao beans.

59 Table 19. Characteristics of internal appearance of beans by groups (based on Sukha, 2016; and Seguine,
2014).

61 Table 20. Form to record the appearance and aroma of cut beans. It is recommended 50 should be described.

64 Table 21. Key specifications for roasting cacao beans.

65 Table 22. Recommended specifications for the roasting oven.

68 Table 23. Basic roasting conditions, including temperature and time, are determined based on the aromas
identified in the cut test and the dominant genetic type of the cacao beans (if known).

70 Table 24. Data to be recorded for the roasting process and roasting results.

71 Table 25. Key specifications for breaking and winnowing cacao beans.

76 Table 26. Data to be recorded for breaking and winnowing cacao beans.

77 Table 27. Key specifications for processing cacao nibs into mass.

190 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Page

82 Table 28. Data to be recorded for grinding cacao nibs into mass.

83 Table 29. Key specifications for processing cacao mass into dark chocolate.

83 Table 30. Standard for cacao butter as provided by Codex Stan 86-1981.

86 Table 31. Standard recipe used by Cacao of Excellence to process cacao mass into chocolate for the sensory
evaluation of cacao beans.
91 Table 32. Data to be recorded for the chocolate-making process.
100 Table 33. Example of sample coding and serving orders for 6 samples evaluated by 6 assessors.
100 Table 34. Example of the final serving order for each assessor with codes.
103 Table 35. Key specifications for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans as unroasted coarse powder.
107 Table 36. Key specifications for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans as cacao mass.
115 Table 37. Key specifications for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans as dark chocolate.
120 Table 38. Cacao of Excellence Glossary of terms for sensory evaluation of cacao beans processed into mass
and dark chocolate (Cacao of Excellence 2023).
124 Table 39. Meaning of the global quality scores for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans processed into
mass and chocolate (Cacao of Excellence 2023).
125 Table 40. Sensory evaluation form for unroasted cacao beans as coarse powder (Adapted from FCCI).
126 Table 41. Calculations of the total scores for the flavour attributes of the Cacao of Excellence Sensory
Evaluation Form.
129 Table 42. Simplified list of flavour attributes for sensory evaluation of cacao beans processed into mass
and chocolate (Cacao of Excellence 2023).
132 Table 43. Information to be recorded for cacao sample processing.
133 Table 44. Information to be recorded for a for a sensory evaluation.
139 Table 45. Examples of moisture metres.
141 Table 46. Example of variables for the calculation of the standard deviation.
147 Table 47. Comparison of bean grade according to existing standards (Beckett, 2009, End and Dand, 2015,
US FDA, 2017).
148 Table 48. Cacao bean grading standards by country (Dand and Scheu, 1995 published in UNCTAD and
WTO, 2001).
152 Table 49. Adjustments in roasting temperature (°C ) and time (minutes) by moisture content (%) and cacao
bean size (bean count of 100g or average bean weight) (Cacao of Excellence Technical Committee,
2019).
154 Table 50. Example: Beans with the following characteristics and basic roasting conditions.
160 Table 51. Options for heating and cooling chocolate manually: advantages and disadvantages.
161 Table 52. Troubleshooting for the tempering process.
164 Table 53. Examples of specifications for a sampling spear for bagged and bulk sampling (ISO 2292:2017).

191
Page

164 Table 54. Examples of specifications for handheld sampling scoops for bulk sampling (Sampling Systems
Ltd., 2018).
165 Table 55. Examples of specifications for handheld sampling scoops for bulk sampling (Sampling Systems
Ltd., 2018).

166 Table 56. Specifications for Aqua-Boy KAM III moisture metre (Enercorp Instruments Ltd, 2008).

166 Table 57. Specifications for Dickey-John Mini GAC 2500 moisture metre (Dickey-John, 2017).

167 Table 58. Specifications for Wile Coffee and Cocoa moisture metre (Farmcomp Oy, 2011).

168 Table 59. Sieve mesh size comparison chart of screens appropriate for cleaning of cacao beans (Gilson
Company Inc., 2018).
170 Table 60. Examples of ovens that comply with the recommended specifications.
170 Table 61. Specifications for the Binder® Oven FD 56 as an example (Binder GmbH, 2017).
172 Table 62. Standard specifications for a square wire mesh that are compliant with the ISCQF standards for
constructing mesh-type oven trays (Metals Service Center Institute, 2022).

173 Table 63. Examples of commercial wire mesh that can be used for constructing oven trays.

175 Table 64. Equipment specifications and procedure for using CAPCO breaker and winnower (Castlebroom
Engineering Ltd, 2020).
177 Table 65. Equipment specifications for CocoaTown™ bean cracker (manual cracker and power cracker) and
winnower as an example (CocoaTown, 2022).

192 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


List of figures
Page

21 Figure 1. Elements of quality and flavour assessment included in this Guide.


30 Figure 2. Proper hand washing and sanitising techniques (WHO, 2006).
34 Figure 3. Schematic representation of the sampling process and types of samples (based on: ISO, 2292:2017
and ISO, 2451:2017).
35 Figure 4. Decision-tree to determine the minimum number of reference samples (t=tonne).
36 Figure 5. Sample collection using a spear from an undamaged bag.
38 Figure 6. Chart illustrating the splitting of a 2kg reference sample into preliminary test samples for all
evaluations described in this guide (based on ISO 2451:2017).
39 Figure 7. Example of a calculation of sampling intervals for a lot in motion (Bioversity International, 2022).
49 Figure 8. Comparison between oven-drying and moisture meter methods.
66 Figure 9. The open area of a screen (Ao) defines the mesh openings as a percentage of the entire screen
surface and is based on the ratio between mesh width (w), assuming the space is square, and
the wire diameter (d). (metalmesh.com.au/glossary)
75 Figure 10. Formula for calculating the yield of cacao nibs from roasted beans.
81 Figure 11. Producing cacao mass drops in portion size: a) piped drops on the parchment paper b) detaching
drops after solidifying (Bioversity International, Alvarado, 2019).
95 Figure 12. Example of a sensory evaluation facility: Layout of the Cacao of Excellence laboratory in Rome, Italy.
96 Figure 13. Example of layout for sample preparation similar to a kitchen environment.

97 Figure 14. (Top) Sensory areas equipped with tables and movable partitions constructed from non-resinous
wood or plywood painted with neutral colours. (Bottom) Example of a construction layout for portable
sensory booths. (Alejandro Anzueto/Universidad del Valle de Guatemala; https://thelabinthebag.
com and Lawless and Heymann, 2010).
98 Figure 15. a) Fixed sensory evaluation booths that are individualised and limit interactions between assessors;
b) Sample layout for a single, fixed sensory evaluation booth. (Alejandro Anzueto/Universidad del
Valle de Guatemala and ISO 8589:2007).
102 Figure 16. Table of random numbers: start on any column or row and read in any direction to create random
three-digit numbers to label the sample cups. (Lawless and Heymann, 2010).
110 Figure 17. a) Sensory evaluation booth equipped with samples, printed evaluation form, spatula and water
thermos b) with heating equipment; and ; and c) with heating equipment and computer with
evaluation form (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).
112 Figure 18. Example of steps for staggering the melting of samples.
112 Figure 19. Example of heating stages of cacao mass samples when serving to a panel (using a food dehydrator).
(Dolores Alvarado/ Bioversity International).
119 Figure 20. Cacao of Excellence Flavour Wheel (2023).
127 Figure 21. User interface of the Excel version of the Cacao of Excellence Sensory Evaluation Form with the
total scores of flavour attributes calculated (Cacao of Excellence 2023).

193
Page

128 Figure 22. Format for the printed version of the Excel version of the Cacao of Excellence Sensory Evaluation
Form (Cacao of Excellence 2023).

130 Figure 23. Example of a line graph for a cacao mass flavour profile (Bioversity International, 2018).
130 Figure 24. Example of a bar graph for a cacao mass flavour profile (Bioversity International, 2018).
131 Figure 25. Example of a spider/radar graph for a cacao mass flavour profile (Bioversity International, 2018).
131 Figure 26. Example of the Cacao of Excellence flavour profile plot.
136 Figure 27. Steps for a randomised selection of specific bags in a lot.
137 Figure 28. Diagram of quartering process (Harvey, 2013).
137 Figure 29. Preparation of reference samples using a quartering tool (MS, 230:2007).
138 Figure 30. Sample calculation of moisture content.
142 Figure 31. Categories of cleaning loss in cacao beans: a) foreign matter b) placenta; c) flat beans; d) bean
clusters; e) broken or cut beans; f) shell and bean fragments; and g) infested beans (Bioversity
International, Archila, 2022).
143 Figure 32. Typical colour of cacao beans with increasing degree of fermentation (from left to right) (Bioversity
International, Archila, 2022).
144 Figure 33. Examples of cut cacao beans at different stages of fermentation (Sukha and Rohsius, 2004).
145 Figure 34. Increasing degree of cacao bean fissuring from top left to bottom right (Bioversity International,
Archila, 2022).
146 Figure 35. Colour reference tool for photographs of beans. a) MacBeth ColorChecker (Kresliln et al, 2014); b)
Tiffen Color Control Patches similar exist from other brands like Kodak, Fuji Film and others; and c)
use of adapted colour reference tool for cut test picture (Bioversity International, Alvarado, 2018 ).
154 Figure 36. Table reading of roasting time and temperature adjustments for cacao beans at 7.8% moisture
and a count of 60 beans/100g.
155 Figure 37. Main parts of a standard Vernier micrometer.
156 Figure 38. Cacao mass preparation procedure using mineral oil, for measuring particle size with a micrometer
(Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).
157 Figure 39. Reading analogue micrometers with 0.001mm resolution. \Standard Vernier micrometer (www.
stefanelli.eng.br/es).
157 Figure 40. Reading analogue micrometers with 0.001mm resolution: high-precision Vernier micrometer
(Seguine, 2014).
159 Figure 41. Ingredient calculation examples with total desired amount of chocolate as the basis.
159 Figure 42. Ingredient calculation examples with cacao mass as the basis.
162 Figure 43. Examples of spears for sampling beans in bags (a, b and c) and for sampling of bulk beans (d).
(ISO, 2292:2017).
162 Figure 44. Examples of sampling scoops for bulk sampling.

194 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Page

163 Figure 45. Examples of weighing scales with at least 2kg capacity: a) analog and b) digital. (www.soehnle-
professional.com/en; www.mt.com).

163 Figure 46. Example of (a) stainless steel and (b) plastic storage vessels for preparing the composite sample
from primary or incremental samples. Storage containers must be equipped with lids to minimise
moisture loss/gain, foreign odour/off-odour absorption, and insect and/or rodent infestation. (www.
sampling.com; www.mannlakeltd.com).

164 Figure 47. Interior of a quartering tool showing the quartering irons (MS, 230:2007).

165 Figure 48. a) oven, b) desiccator; and c) metal dishes, for meaning moisture content using the oven-drying
method (matest.com; coleparmer.co.uk; certifiedmtp.com).

166 Figure 49. a) Cacao-specific moisture metre Aqua-Boy KAM III with cup electrode 202 and b) stab electrode
209 b, cable and holder. (aqua-boy.co.uk).

167 Figure 50. Dickey-John Mini GAC 2500 moisture metre with loader (dickey-john.com).

167 Figure 51. Wile Coffee and Cocoa moisture metre (wile.fi).

167 Figure 52. Example of an electronic top-loading scale for weighing the samples (www.soehnle-professional.
com/en).

168 Figure 53. a) Test sieve for separating cacao beans from dirt particles; b) mechanical sieve shaker for bean
size distribution measurement and analysis (lavallab.com).

169 Figure 54. Example of cutting beans individually with a knife (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

169 Figure 55. Examples of classification boards for cut beans (Neuhaus, 2006; Neuhaus, 2007).

169 Figure 56. Example of bean cutting procedure using a Magra 14 guillotine cutter from Teserba (teserba.ch).

170 Figure 57. a) Image of Binder® Oven FD 56 closed and b) open. Notice the symmetrical position of the trays
above and below the fan opening (binder-world.com).

171 Figure 58. a) Original Binder ® oven tray; b) same tray screen covered; c) detail of screen frame corner; d)
back of adapted tray. Notice the edge lips that allow the entire tray to be used for roasting but
not risk any beans falling off (Seguine, 2014).

171 Figure 59. Other stainless steel wire roasting trays adapted to suit the area of the oven tray (a) Sukha and
Ali, 2016; b) Bioversity International, Archila, 2022.

172 Figure 60. Differences in screen open area are defined by two parameters: mesh size and wire diameter.
(metalmesh.com.au/glossary/).

174 Figure 61. Example of cooling tray with fan attached at the bottom (cocoatown.com).

174 Figure 62. Semi-manual method of winnowing cacao beans. a) Rolling pin, b) hair dryer (Bioversity International,
Archila, 2022).

174 Figure 63. Diagram of a self-made winnower using pipes and accessories is activated using a vacuum cleaner.
More detailed information can be found at chocolatealchemy.com/.

175 Figure 64. CAPCO stainless steel equipment for a) breaking and b) winnowing cacao beans (capco.co.uk).

176 Figure 65. CocoaTown™ cacao bean crackers a) Manual Cracker; and b) Power Cracker (cocoatown.com).

195
Page

177 Figure 66. a) CocoaTown™ Basic Winnower and the 1 metering devices (feeders); b) manual metering device
is included by default or c) optional motorized metering device (cocoatown.com).
178 Figure 67. Example of hot air popcorn maker as an optional apparatus to loosen shells from the bean
(westbend.com).
179 Figure 68. Examples of table top melanger-type grinders of different brands on the market a) cocoatown.
com; b) spectramelangers.com; c) melangers.com; d) chocolatemelangeur.com.
179 Figure 69. Inside the melanger: a) view of stone grinder assembly inside the empty stone bowl; b) view of the
melanger bowl while grinding cacao nibs into mass. (chocolatemelangeur.com; chocolatealchemy.
com).
180 Figure 70. Other equipment to grind cacao nibs into cacao mass a) retsch.com; b) capco.co.uk; c) memet.com.
180 Figure 71. Example of grinders that can be used for pregrinding cacao nibs: a) coffee electric blade mill
grinder; b) blade mill grinder; c) Champion® juicer grinder (krups.com; https://www.elgiultra.com;
championjuicer.com).
181 Figure 72. Examples of micrometers ranging between 0-25mm with 0.001mm resolution. a) hahn-kolb.de;
b) and c) tesatechnology.com; d) mitutoyo.co.jp.
181 Figure 73. Infrared thermometer (etekcity.com).
182 Figure 74. Hot water-bath (bain-marie): a) example of proper hot water bath; b) bowl has to fit tightly in the
pot without gap in between; c) between the pot and bowl there should be no gap (due to risk of
exposure of water steam to chocolate) and stove should be turned off while melting chocolate
to prevent burning of chocolate; d) electrical melter with same function (Bioversity International,
Alvarado, 2022; lacor.es).
182 Figure 75. a) Digital vs. b) analog microwave. The timer in analog microwaves is not precise enough to
adjust time intervals shorter than a minute and therefore is not adequate for tempering. (lg.com).
183 Figure 76. Tempering on a marble slab (pixabay.com)
183 Figure 77. a) Cold water-bath. If the environmental air temperature is too hot, ice can be added to the bath
(b) cold water ice can be added (Bioversity International, Alvarado, 2022).

183 Figure 78. Examples of digital thermometers: a) infrarred thermometer; b) stem thermometer; c) probe
thermometer (etekcity.com; coleparmer.co.uk; hannainst.com).
184 Figure 79. Spatulas for tempering: a) thermoresistant flexible spatula (wilton.com); b) scraper spatula
(matferbourgeatusa.com); c) icing spatula (wilton.com).
184 Figure 80. Heat gun (bosch-professional.com).
185 Figure 81. Semi automatic tempering machines: a) rotating wheel tempering machine; b) rotating bowl
tempering machine. (perfectchoco.com; chocovision.com).

185 Figure 82. Fully automatic tempering machine for small quantities (pomati.it).
185 Figure 83. Example of cacao butter to use in the seeding method (pixabay.com).
186 Figure 84 Examples of nutcrackers (foodal.com).

186 Figure 85. Example of electric blade mill grinder. a) Krups F203 coffee grinder viewed from the side and b)
from the top (krupsusa.com).

196 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Page

186 Figure 86. Example of a burr grinder. a) GSI outdoors Java Mill portable coffee grinder ready for use and b)
its parts (gsioutdoors.com).
187 Figure 87. Examples of containers of 200–240ml (¾ –1 cup) capacity with lid to store for up to 3 hours and
hold coarse powder of unroasted cacao beans for sensory evaluation. a) specialtybottle.com; b)
ravennindia.com; c) firatmed.com.

187 Figure 88. Appearance of solid cacao mass stored inside diferent airtight containers (Bioversity International,
Archila, 2022).

187 Figure 89. a) Appearance of solid cacao mass stored as a bar in vacuum-sealed bag and b) portioned in 1–2g
drops (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

188 Figure 90. Example of 28ml cups: a) plastic with lid, b) glass with alumina paper lid to hold cacao mass
sample. (Bioversity International, Archila, 2022).

188 Figure 91. Examples of heating equipment for sensory evaluation: laboratory dry block heaters with heated
lid; a) normal size and b) smaller size (ohaus.com; uk.vwr.com).

188 Figure 92. Example of heating equipment for cacao mass sensory evaluation: a warming plate (labotect.com).

188 Figure 93. Example of a thermos to keep water warm at 40–50°C for the cacao mass sensory evaluation
(bunn.com).

189 Figure 94. Examples of heating equipment for cacao mass sensory evaluation: a) heating oven (matest.com);
b) food dehydrator (gourmia.com); c) laboratory water bath or bain-marie (fishersci.es).

197
Contributors

COORDINATORS AND CONTRIBUTORS


Brigitte Laliberté (Cacao of Excellence/Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT)
Dolores Alvarado (Cacao of Excellence/Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT)

MAIN CONTRIBUTORS
Ed Seguine (Cacao Cocoa and Chocolate Advisors/Guittard Chocolate)
Darin Sukha (CRC/UWI)

ISCQF WORKING GROUP MEMBERS (AFFILIATIONS AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION OF DRAFTS)


Bill Guyton (FCIA)
Brad Kintzer (TCHO)
Brigitte Laliberté (Cacao of Excellence/Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT)
Carla Martin (FCCI)
Carolina Aguilar (LWR)
Charlotte Martin (ICCO)
Cristina Liberati (EE/CDP)
Dan Domingo (ECOM Trading)
Daphne Braak (CBI)
Darin Sukha (CRC/UWI).
Ed Seguine (Seguine Cacao Cocoa and Chocolate Advisors/Guittard Chocolate)
Erik Plaisier (CBI)
Herve Biseleua (WCF)
John Kehoe (Guittard Chocolate)
Juan Francisco Mollinedo (AMACACAO)
Julien Simonis (Belcolade/Puratos)
Martin Christy (IICCT)
Mey Choy Paz (CDP/FCIA) (EE/CDP)
Nene Akwetey-Kodjoe (WCF)
Nubia Martínez (UNALM)
Pierre Costet (Valrhona Chocolate)
Renata Januszewska (Barry Callebaut)
Rick Peyser (LWR)

198 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


CONTRIBUTORS (NOT WORKING GROUP MEMBERS) PRIOR TO FIRST PUBLIC DRAFT PUBLICATION - VIA MEETINGS, TASK
FORCES, EXPERT CONSULTATIONS, AND/OR SHORT REVIEWS
Coralie Veyrac (Barry Callebaut)
José López Ganem (FCCI)
Philip Sigley (FCC)
Robin Dand (Robin Dand Commodities Ltd)
Siela Maximova (Penn State University)

DRAFTING TEAM MEMBERS – CACAO OF EXCELLENCE/ALLIANCE OF BIOVERSITY INTERNATIONAL AND CIAT BETWEEN
2018-2019
Arisa Thamsuaidee
Chinkee Lim
Jami Willard
Patricia Cuba
Pramitha Pothan
Sue González

MEMBERS PART OF THE CACAO OF EXCELLENCE TECHNICAL COMMITTEE AT THE TIME OF THE DRAFTING AND REVIEW
Ed Seguine Chair (Cacao Cocoa and Chocolate Advisors/Guittard Chocolate)
Adriana Arciniégas (Centro Agronómico Tropical de Investigación y Enseñanza (CATIE))
Brad Kintzer (TCHO)
Darin Sukha (CRC/UWI)
Dorine Kassi (QHSE)
Fabien Coutel (Treegether)
Florent Coste (Valrhona)
John Kehoe (Guittard Chocolate)
Julien Simonis (Puratos)
Karin Chatelain (ZHAW)
Naailah Ali (CRC/UWI)
Nubia Martínez (National Agrarian University at La Molina in Lima)
Régis Bouet (Régis Bouet Solutions (RBS))
Stephen Yaw Opoku (Cocoa Research Institute of Ghana (CRIG))

199
REVIEWERS (PUBLIC REVISION)

COUNTRY ORGANIZATION NAME

Brazil Independent Albertus Eskes

Colombia InSitu Carlos Torres


Universidad Nacional Abierta y a Distancia Lucas Quintana

Côte d’Ivoire CEMOI Mahieu Aka


International Cocoa Organization (ICCO) Carlotte Martin

Dominican Cacao Forest / Zorzal Cacao Heriberto Paredes


Republic
Chocolates Khao Caribe, SRL Moisés Davidovits
CONACADO Cosme Gilberto Guerrero
Elizabeth Burgos
Yenny Medina
COOPCANOR Pedro Ramón Reyes Pena
Cortés Hermanos Bienvenido Then
Definite Chocolate, SRL Jens Kamin
DR Cocoa Foundation Yirelisa Alcántara
Exporting Quality Program / International Executive Service Corps Ana Tolentino
Peggy Aviotti
Laboratorio del Cacao, Ministerio de Agricultura Mariolis Castaño Tejada
Nikaurys Genaro Frías
Recursos Globales, SRL José Alejandro
Rizek Elaine de Windt F.
Valdez Cacao SFM, SRL José Valdéz
Xocolat Diana Munne

Ecuador Agencia de Regulación y Control Fito y Zoosanitario Yessenia Echeverría


(AGROCALIDAD)
Asociación Nacional de Exportadores de Cacao del Ecuador Cristian Noboa
(ANECACAO)
Conexión Chocolate Luisa Mafla
Mario Remache

200 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


COUNTRY ORGANIZATION NAME

Ecuador ECOM Maria Merchán


Escuela Politécnica Nacional Carolina Ramos
Yadira Quimbita
Escuela Superior Politécnica de Manabí Paúl Cedeño
Guangala Jaime Zea
Instituto Nacional de Investigaciones Agropecuarias del Ecuador Gladys Rodríguez
(INIAP)
Jand Cacao Wilman Quezada
Ministerio de Agricultura y Ganadería Andrés Proaño
Gabriela Chacón
Luis Herrera
Individual names
not provided
Nestlé Alejandra Rivadeneira
Angie Largo
Organization name not provided Bethsy Hurtado
Brissia Millones
Edgar Zambrano
Elsa Zárate
Flavio Legards
Franklin Tipán
José Barén
José García
Juan Arévalo
Ludy Rivas
Miguel Pérez
Pablo Conselmo
Wilman Quezada
Rikolto International José Luis Cueva
Servicio Ecuatoriano de Normalización (INEN) Jessie Gallardo
Unión de Organizaciones Campesinas Cacaoteras Lady Paredes
Universidad Técnica Estatal de Quevedo Wiston Morales
Organization name not provided Pedro López

France CEMOI Julien Menou


Sabine Quintana
Valrhona Pierre Costet

Germany SGS Lisa Marie KIttelmann

201
COUNTRY ORGANIZATION NAME

Haiti Haiti National Organization Committee Individual names


not provided

Indonesia Indonesian Coffee and Cocoa Research Institute Ariza Budi Tunjung Sari

Malaysia Malaysian Cocoa Board Dr. Khairul Bariah Sulaiman


Mohamed Yusof bin Ishak
Suzannah Sharif

Netherlands OLAM Cocoa Marjon Theunissen

Nicaragua APAC–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names


not provided
APEN–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided
Castillo del Cacao–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided
Clayo Chocolates–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided
Cooperativa La Campesina–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided
EXPASA–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided
Madre Cacao–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided
Ritter Sport–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided
Semillas Group–Comisión de Cacao Indivudual names
not provided

Papua New Independent Grant Vinning


Guinea

202 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


COUNTRY ORGANIZATION NAME

Peru Comité Técnico Nacional de Cacao y Chocolate (INACAL) Individual names


not provided

Philippines DA Bureau of Standards Krishna Mecija

Switzerland ZHAW Karin Chatelain

Trinidad and Cacao Development Company Trinidad and Tobago Limited Fayaz Shah
Tobago Matthew Escalante
Roger Poliah
Siddiqa Ragbirsingh
Stefan Lee Son

United Federation of Cocoa Commerce Phil Sigley


Kingdom Robin Dand

United Calkins + Burke Ltd. Jan Calkins


States
Cocoterra Nate Staal
Theo Chocolate Robert Francis

203
References
Adhikari J; Chambers E. & Koppel K. 2019. Impact of Consumption Temperature on Sensory Properties of Hot Brewed
Cofee. Food and Research International 115:95-104. doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2018.08.014

Afoakwa EO. 2010. Chocolate Science and Technology. Wiley-Blackwell Publishing, Singapore, The Republic of
Singapore. 275 p.

AgraTronix. 2022. Moisture Testers. https://www.agratronix.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Aprotosoaie AC; Luca SV & Miron A. 2015. Flavor Chemistry of Cocoa and Cocoa Products – An Overview. Comprehensive
Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 15(1): 73-91. doi:10.1111/1541-4337.12180

ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations). 2014. ASEAN Stan 34:2014 Standard for Cocoa Bean. ASEAN Trade
Repository. https://www.asean.org/wp-content/uploads/images/Community/AEC/AMAF/OtherDocuments/
ASEAN%20Standard%20for%20Cocoa%20Bean.pdf (Accessed on 23 July 2018).

Beckett ST. 2008. The Science of Chocolate (2 ed.). The Royal Society of Chemistry, London, United Kingdom. 240 p.

Beckett ST. (eds.). 2009. Industrial Chocolate Manufacture and Use (4 ed.). Blackwell Publishing Ltd , West Sussex,
United Kingdom. 668 p.

Beckett ST; Yates, P. 2009. Formulation. In: Talbot G. (ed.), Technology of Coated and Filled Chocolate, Confectionery,
and Bakery Products. Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, United Kingdom. pp. 11-52.

Binder GmbH. 2017. Binder FD 56 Operating Manual. https://www.binder-world.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Binder GmbH. 2019. Binder 9010-0255 FP Programmable Mechanical Convection Oven; 4.1 cu ft, RS-422, 230V. https://
www.binder-world.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Bottles & Jars. 2022. Bottles & Jars. https://www.specialtybottle.com/ (Accessed 10 June 2022).

Bray J. 2012. The Golden Cacao Cut. On the Cocoa Trail. https://onthecocoatrail.com/2012/06/27/the-golden-cut/
(Accessed on 24 July 2018).

BSI (British Standard Institution). 1992. BS 5098:1992. Terms Relating to Sensory Analysis. London, United Kingdom. 28 p.

Bunn-O-Matic Corporation. 2022. BUNN 2.5 Liter Lever-Action Airpot, Stainless Steel. https://www.bunn.com/ (Accessed
on 3 May 2022).

CABI (Centre for Agriculture and Bioscience International). 2016. "CocoaSafe": Capacity Building and Knowledge
Sharing in SPS in Cocoa in Southeast Asia. Final Report of Project "CocoaSafe". https://www.icco.org/
wp-content/uploads/2.-CocoaSafe-Capacity-Building-and-Knowledge-Sharing-in-SPS-and-Food-Safety-in-
Cocoa-in-South-East-Asia.pdf (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Cacao Móvil. 2021. Aprendiendo e innovando sobre el cacao en sistemas agroforestales. https://cacaomovil.com/
(Retrieved 9 June 2022).

Cacao Cucina. 2022. Cacao Cucina Line of Equipment. http://cacaocucina.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Campus-Gemüse. 2022. Sensorik. http://www.campus-gemuese.de (Accessed on 1 May 2022).

Carr BT; Civille GV & Meilgaard MC. 2016. Sensory Evaluation Techniques (5 eds.). CRC Press, Boca Raton, USA. 632 p.

204 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Castlebroom Engineering Ltd. 2020. Capco Test Equipment. https://capco.co.uk (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Castlebroom Engineering Ltd. 2022. Triple Roll Mill Stainless Rolls. https://capco.co.uk (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

CCC (Le Conseil du Café – Cacao). 2015. Normes D'Exportation du Cacao. http://www.conseilcafecacao.ci/index.
php?option=com_content&view=article&id=109&Itemid=180 (Accessed on 26 February 2019).

CCUR (Iowa State University Center for Crops Utilization Research). 2022. Facilities Kitchen., http://www.ccur.iastate.
edu (Accessed on 26 April 2022).

CEN (European Committee for Standardization). 2002. European Standard EN 12464-1: Light and lighting – Lighting
of work places – Part 1: Indoor work places. Brussels, Belgium. http://www.ageta.lt/app/webroot/files/
uploads/filemanager/File/info/EN_12464-1.pdf (Accessed on 4 July 2019).

Center for Sensory Analysis and Consumer Behaviour. 2015. Evaluation/Focus Group Rooms/ Preparation Space. www.
sensoryanalysis.com: https://www.sensoryanalysis.com (Accessed on 1 May 2022).

CFIA (Canadian Food Inspection Agency) – Grains and Oilseeds Section, CSI (Canadian Seed Institute), CGC (Canadian
Grain Commission). 2015. Sampling Methods and Procedures Guide, 3rd Version. https://www.grainscanada.
gc.ca/pva-vpa/container-contenant/proc-301/proc3-0-1-en.pdf (Accessed on 18 July 2018).

Charm School Chocolate. 2022. Chocolate: From Bean to Bar. https://www.charmschoolchocolate.com (Accessed
on 2 May 2022).

Chatt EM. 1953. Cocoa: Cultivation, Processing, Analysis. In: Kertesz ZI. (ed.), Economic Crops, Vol. III. Interscience
Publishers, New York, USA. 1-302 p.

Chocolate Alchemy. 2011. Chocolate Alchemy's DIY Winnower. http://chocolatealchemy.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Chocolate Alchemy. 2022. How to Make Chocolate. https://chocolatealchemy.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Chocolate Melangeur. 2022. Ultra Perfect Plus Nut Butter Grider. https://www.chocolatemelangeur.com (Accessed
on 2 May 2022).

Cioccia E. 2011. Bavette Gastronomia. https://www.bavette.es/ (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

CocoaTown. 2022. CocoaTown Equipment. https://cocoatown.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

CocoTerra Company. 2022. CocoTerra Tabletop Chocolate Maker. https://www.cocoterra.com/ (Accessed on 10 June
2022).

Cacao of Excellence Programme. 2019. Technical Procedures for Processing the Cocoa Bean Samples from Participating
Countries – from Reception, Physical Quality and Processing into Mass and Chocolate for Flavour Sensory
Evaluation. www.cocoaofexcellence.org (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Coffee Laboratory LLC. 2022. Deluxe Sample Divider Boerner Type. http://www.coffeelabequipment.com (Accessed
on 2 May 2022).

Cole-Palmer Instruments Company LLC. 2022. Process Equipment for Life Sciences. https://www.coleparmer.co.uk
(Accessed on 3 May 2022).

205
Dand R. 2011. Quality Assessment of Cocoa Beans for International Trade. In: Dand R. (ed.), The International Cocoa
Trade, (3 ed.). Woodhead Publishing Limited, Sawston, United Kingdom. 219-267 p.

Dandelion Chocolate. 2017. Education Station: What's up with Whole Roasted Beans? https://www.dandelionchocolate.
com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

De Zaan. 2006. The De Zaan Cocoa Manual. ADM Cocoa BV, Koog aan de Zaan, The Netherlands. 151 p.

Diamond Custom Machine. 2018. Premier Chocolate Refiners. https://www.melangers.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Dickey-John. 2017. Product Spotlight. http://www.dickey-john.com (Accessed on 15 January 2019).

Edward J. Darby & Son Inc. 2020. Edward J. Darby & Son Cayalog. https://catalog.darbywiremesh.com (Accessed on
2 May 2022).

End MJ; Dand R (eds). 2015. Cocoa Beans: Chocolate and Cocoa Industry Quality Requirements. ECA-Caobisco-FCC
Joint Cocoa Research Fund https://www.cocoaquality.eu/data/Cocoa%20Beans%20Industry%20Quality%20
Requirements%20Apr%202016_En.pdf (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Etekcity Corporation. 2021. Tools. https://www.etekcity.com/ (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

Faerch. 2015. CPET Takes Foods Directly from the Freezer to Oven. https://www.faerch.com (Accessed on 21 November
2019).

FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) & WHO (World Health Organization). 1999. Codex Alimentarius. Report of the
Twenty-Third Session of the Codex Committee on Fish and Fishery Products. CX 5/15. Food and Agriculture
Organization, Rome, Italy. https://www.fao.org/3/W9253E/w9253e0k.htm#bm20.2.2 (Accessed on 18 July
2018).

FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) & WHO (World Health Organization). 2004. Codex Alimentarius. General
Guidelines on Sampling. CAC/GL 50-2004. Food and Agriculture Organization, Rome, Italy. https://www.
fao.org/uploads/media/Codex_2004_sampling_CAC_GL_50.pdf (Accessed on 18 July 2018).

FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) & WHO (World Health Organization). 2016a. Codex Alimentarius. Standard for
Cocoa (Cacao) Mass (Cocoa/Chocolate Mass) and Cocoa Cake Codex Stan 141-1983. Food and Agriculture
Organization, Rome, Italy. http://files.eacce.org.ma/pj/1415770249.pdf (Accessed on 14 September 2019).

FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) & WHO (World Health Organization). 2016b. Codex Alimentarius. Standard
for Cocoa Butter. CXS 86-1981. Food and Agriculture Organization, Rome, Italy. https://www.fao.org/fao-
who-codexalimentarius/sh-proxy/en/?lnk=1&url=https%253A%252F%252Fworkspace.fao.org%252Fsites
%252Fcodex%252FStandards%252FCXS%2B86-1981%252FCXS_086e.pdf (Accessed on 25 April 2022)

FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization ) & WHO (World Health Organization). 2016c. Codex Alimentarius. Standard for
Chocolate and Chocolate Products. STAN 87–1981. Food and Agriculture Organization, Rome, Italy. https://
www.fao.org/fao-who-codexalimentarius/sh-proxy/en/?lnk=1&url=https%253A%252F%252Fworkspace.
fao.org%252Fsites%252Fcodex%252FStandards%252FCXS%2B87-1981%252FCXS_087e.pdf (Accessed
on 18 July 2018).

FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) & WHO (World Health Organization). 2018. Compendium of Food Additive
Specifications (22 ed.). Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives, Geneva, Switzerland. 77p.

206 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) & WHO (World Health Organization). 2020. Codex Alimentarius. General
Principles of Food Hygiene. CXC 1-1969. Food and Agriculture Organization, Rome, Italy. https://www.fao.
org/fao-who-codexalimentarius/codex-texts/codes-of-practice/en/ (Accessed on 7 August 7 2020).

Farmcomp Oy. 2019. Grain Moisture Meters. https://www.wile.fi (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

FCCI (The Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute). 2016a. FCCI Cacao Grader Evaluation Version 1.0.https://chocolateinstitute.
org/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/FCCI_evaluation_english_1.0.pdf (Accessed on 3 August 2018).

FCCI (The Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute). 2016b. FCCI Cacao Sampling Protocol Version 1.0. https://chocolateinstitute.
org/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/FCCI_protocol_english_1_0.pdf (Accessed on 17 June 2018).

Firat. 2018. Polypropilene Sample Container. http://www.firatmed.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

France-Etuves. 2020. Des étuves de laboratoires et des étuves industrielles. https://www.france-etuves.com/ (Accessed
on 10 June 2022).

Frost D J; Adhikari K & Lewis D. 2011. Effect of Barley Flour on the Physical and Sensory Characteristics of Chocolate
Chip Cookies. Journal of Food Science and Technology 48(5):569-576. doi:10.1007/s13197-010-0179-x

Gemmy Industrial Corporation. 2022. Hot Air Oven Model YCO-010. http://www.gemmy.com.tw/: http://www.gemmy.
com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Gilson Company Inc. 2018. Materials Testing Equipment. https://www.globalgilson.com/ (Accessed on 18 July 2018).

Godshall M; Grimm C; Moore SJ & Batista R. 2003. Comparison of Two Methods of Volatile Analysis for Determining the
Causes of Off-Odors in White Beet Sugars - SPME and Headspace. International Sugar Journal 105(32):193-208.

Gourmia. 2022. Gourmia GFD1650 Digital Food Dehydrator. https://www.gourmia.com (Accessed on 13 June 2022).

Greweling PP. 2013. Chocolates and Confections: Formula, Theory and Technique for the Artisan Confectioner (2 ed.).
John Wiley & Sons, West Sussex, United Kingdom. 544 p.

Groupe SEB USA. 2022. Fast Touch Electric Coffee and Spice Grinder. https://www.krupsusa.com (Accessed on 3
May 2022).

GSI Outdoors. 2021. GSI Outdoors Java Mill Portable Coffee Grinder. https://www.gsioutdoors.com (Accessed on 3
May 2022).

HAHN+KOLB Werkzeuge GmbH. 2022. Tesamaster A1. https://www.hahn-kolb.de (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Hanna Instruments Inc. 2022. Digital Thermometer. https://hannainst.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Harvey, D. 2013. Coning and Quartering. Image and Video Exchange Forum. http://community.asdlib.org/
imageandvideoexchangeforum/2013/07/24/coning-and-quartering/ (Accessed on 6 May 2018).

Harwood ML & Hayes JE. 2017. Sensory Evaluation of Chocolate and Cocoa Products. In: Beckett ST; Fowler MS &
Ziegler GR. (eds.), Beckett’s Industrial Chocolate Manufacture and Use. John Wiley & Sons, West Sussex,
United Kingdom. 509-520 p.

207
HCP (Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund). 2018. Protocols for HCP Lab Tests and Raw Bean Characterization Pre-Mass
Preparation and Analysis. Fine Chocolate Industry Association. https://www.hcpcacao.org/hcp-protocols-
for-lab-test.html (Accessed on 24 May 2018).

Herewegen, N. 2016. Annex 15: Cocoa Bean Manual Puratos Belcolade. In: Sukha D. (ed.), Steps Towards a Harmonized
International Standard for Cocoa Flavour Assessment – A Review of Current Protocols and Practices. A
technical review presented to the Cocoa of Excellence Programme of Bioversity International and Lutheran
World Relief, under Cacao Movil ed., p. 183. The Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT, Rome, Italy.
https://www.cocoaqualitystandards.org/fileadmin/templates/CocoaQuality/Uploads/Documents-and-reports/
REVIEW-Cocoa_Quality_Flavour_Standards_-_Darin_SUKHA_sans_Appendices-12May2016-ENGLISH.pdf
(Accesed on 3 May 2022).

ICE (Intercontinental Exchange Inc). 2017. London Cocoa Futures & Euro Cocoa Futures (Allowances & Discounts
- Effective May 2017). https://www.theice.com/publicdocs/futures/London_and_Euro_Cocoa_Futures_
Effective_May_2017.pdf (Accessed on 17 July 2018).

InnoVinum LLC. 2022. Is Your Wine Tasting Room Set Up Properly? https://www.winetasting-demystified.com (Accessed
on 1 May 2022).

International Trade Centre UNCTAD and WTO. 2001. Cocoa: A Guide to Trade Practices. International Trade Centre,
Geneva, Switzerland. 192 p.

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2005. ISO 6658:2005. Sensory Analysis — Methodology — General
Guidance. ISO, Geneva, Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/36226.html (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2007. ISO 8589:2007. Sensory analysis — General Guidance for
the Design of Test Rooms. ISO, Geneva, Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/36385.html (Accessed
on 3 May 2022).

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2008. ISO 5492:2008. Sensory analysis — Vocabulary. ISO,
Geneva, Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/38051.html (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2011. ISO 11037:2011 Sensory Analysis – Guidelines for Sensory
Assessment of the Colour of Product. ISO, Geneva, Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/50112.html
(Accessed on 2 May 2022).

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2012. ISO 8586:2012. Sensory Analysis –General Guidelines for
the Selection, Training and Monitoring of Selected Assessors and Expert Sensory Assessors. ISO, Geneva,
Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/45352.html (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2016. ISO 13299:2016. Sensory Analysis – Methodology – General
Guidance for Establishing a Sensory Profile. ISO, Geneva, Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/58042.
html (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2016. ISO 3310-1:2016. Test sieves — Technical Requirements
and Testing — Part 1: Test Sieves of Metal Wire Cloth. ISO, Geneva, Switzerland. from https://www.iso.org/
standard/62410.html (Accessed on 27 April 2022).

ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2017a. ISO 2292:2017. Cocoa Beans – Sampling. ISO, ISO, Geneva,
Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/68203.html (Accessed on 27 April 2022).

208 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


ISO (International Organization for Standardization). 2017b. ISO 2451:2017. Cocoa Beans – Specifications and Quality
Requirements. ISO, Geneva, Switzerland. https://www.iso.org/standard/68202.html (Accessed on 27 April
2022).

Januszewska, R., Depypere, F., Van Leuven I., Pradal, P., Loobuyck, K., Veinand, B. & Adringa, N. (2018). Hidden
Persuaders in Cocoa and Chocolate. A Flavour Lexicon for Cocoa and Chocolate Sensory Professionals.
Elsevier Inc., Woodhead Publishing, pp. 143. https://www.elsevier.com/books/hidden-persuaders-in-cocoa-
and-chocolate/januszewska/978-0-12-815447-2

Jiangsu Zhongxian Group Co Ltd. 2022. Cocoa Butter. https://zhongxiangoil.en.alibaba.com/ (Accessed on 10 June
2022).

Kern & Sohn GmbH. 2022. Precision Balance PCB-2000-1. https://www.sigmaaldrich.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Khamrui K. 2013. Sensory Evaluation of Functional Fermented Milk Products. Requirements and Tecnique. https://
www.slideshare.net (Accessed on 1 May 2022).

King Arthur Baking Company Inc. 2022. Recipies. https://www.kingarthurflour.com (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

KPM Moisture Meters Limited. 2008. Our Meters. http://www.aqua-boy.co.uk (Accessed on 15 January 2019).

Kreslin R; Calvo PM; Galo Corzo L & Peer P. 2014. Linear Chromatic Adaptation Transform Based on Delauney
Triangulation. Mathematical Problems in Engineering 9(2):1-9 doi:10.1155/2014/760123

Kring L. 2020. Foodal's Guide to the Best Nutcrackers. https://foodal.com/kitchen/general-kitchenware/guides-general-


kitchenware/foodals-guide-to-the-best-nutcrackers/ (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Labotech GmbH. 2022. Hot Plate for Laboratory and Scientific Use. http://www.labotect.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Lacor Menaje. 2012. Chocolate Bain Marie. http://www.lacor.es (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Laiskonis M. 2018. Post from Michael Laiskonis Instagram Web Page: Pictures of Well-fermented Beans. https://www.
instagram.com/p/BmzEDa9gym-/?taken-by=mlaiskonis (Accessed on 6 June 2022).

Lawless HT & Heymann H. 2010. Sensory Evaluation of Food: Principles and Practices (2nd ed.). Springer, New York,
USA. 596 p. doi:10.1007/978-1-4419-6488-5

LG Electronics. 2022. Microwave Ovens. https://www.lg.com (Accesed on 3 May 2022).

Long Island Indicator Service Inc. 2019. 109 – Tesamaster Micrometer With Analogue Digit Counter - Inch or Metric -
Made in Switzerland. http://www.longislandindicator.com (Accessed on 19 November 2019).

Luna F; Crouzillat D; Cirou L & Bucheli, P. 2002. Chemical Composition and Flavour of Ecuadorian Cocoa Mass. Journal
of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 50(12):3527-3532. doi:10.1021/jf0116597

Mann Lake Bee & Ag Supply. 2022. Gallon Plastic Bucket wit Lid. https://www.mannlakeltd.com/ (Accessed on 2 May
2022).

Mastest Spa. 2017. Forced ventilation oven, 220 litres. https://www.matest.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

209
Matest Spa. 2022. Complete Vacuum Desiccator Plate and Desiccant Kit. http://www.matest.com (Accessed on 2
May 2022).

Matfer Bourgeat. 2021. Matfer Bourgeat Coating Spatula for Chocolate. https://matferbourgeatusa.com/ (Accessed
on 3 May 2022).

McMaster-Carr. 2022. McMaster Steel Wire Catalog. https://www.mcmaster.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

McNichols Co. 2022. McNichols Wire Mesh Catalog. https://www.mcnichols.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Metal Mesh. 2022. Glossary. https://www.metalmesh.com.au/glossary/ (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Metal Service Center Institute. 2022. Mesh Type Oven Trays. https://www.msci.org/ (Accessed on 27 April 2022).

Mettler Toledo. 2022. Precision Balance MS4002TS/00. https://www.mt.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Misnawi A; Jinap S; Jamilah B & Nazamid S. 2004. Sensory Properties of Cocoa Mass as Affected by Polyphenol
Concentration and Duration of Roasting. Food Quality and Preference 15(5):403-409. doi:10.1016/S0950-
3293(03)00097-1

Mitutoyo Corporation. 2022. New Products Categories. https://www.mitutoyo.co.jp/eng/ (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

MS (Department of Standards Malaysia). 2007. MS 230:2007: Cocoa Beans - Sampling Method for Grading, (First
Revision). Department of Standards, Putrayaja, Malaysia. https://www.koko.gov.my/lkm/industry/sampling_
method.pdf (Accessed on 31 May 2018).

Munster GPS. 2022. Digital Infrared Thermometer. https://www.munstergps.ie/ (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

Myers ME; Nwozu CV; Whitacre EJ & and Hammerstone JF. 2003. United States of America Patent No. 6,582,747 B2.
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/03/12/90/ddc53bc263dbf8/US6582747.pdf (Accessed on
24 July 2018).

Naes T; Brockoff P & Tomic O. 2010. Statistics for Sensory and Consumer Science. John Wiley & Sons, West Sussex,
United Kingdom. 304 p.

Neuhaus T. 2006. Doing the cut test. Project Hope and Fairness. Coopaga, Cote d'Ivoire. http://cocoafarmingpix.
blogspot.com/2010/10/cocoa-analysis.html (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

Neuhaus, T. 2007. Board Used for Grading Beans. Saf Cacao Testing Laboratory. Project Hope and Fairness. San Pedro,
Cote d'Ivoire. http://cocoafarmingpix.blogspot.com/2010/10/cocoa-analysis.html (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

Pascale D. 2006. RGB Coordinates of the Macbeth ColorChecker. The Babel Color Company. https://babelcolor.com/
index_htm_files/RGB%20Coordinates%20of%20the%20Macbeth%20ColorChecker.pdf (Accessed on 24
July 2018).

Perfect Choco. 2022. Mini Wheel Tempering. https://perfectchoco.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Pomati Group Srl. 2022. Pomati T5 Chocolate Tempering Machine. https://www.pomati.it/ (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Ravenn India. 2022. Penta Lock Glass 750 ml (4″) with Plastic Lid. https://ravennindia.com/ (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

210 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Reed S. 2010. Sensory Analysis of Chocolate Mass. The Manufacturing Confectioner 90(11):43-52.

Retsch GmbH. 2022. Mortar Grinder RM 200. https://www.retsch.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Robert Bosch Power Tools GmbH. 2021. Heat Guns. https://www.bosch-professional.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Rooth Chocolate. 2022. Winnowing. https://rootchocolate.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Sampling System Ltd. 2018. Over a Million Stock Items. https://sampling.com (Accessed on 19 July 2018).

Schaller GmbH. 2015. FSA Operating Manual. https://www.humimeter.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Schaller GmbH. 2022. Humimeter FS3 Food Moisture Meter. https://www.humimeter.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Schmidt RH. 2015. Basic Elements of Equipment Cleaning and Sanitizing in Food Processing and Handling Operations.
Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, FS14, 1-11. from http://ucfoodsafety.ucdavis.
edu/files/26501.pdf (Accessed on 12 September 2018).

Seguine, E. 2014. Operating Procedures and Recommendations for Equipment Operation - Laboratory Evaluation of
Cocoa Beans, Version 1.0. Cacao Cocoa and Chocolate Advisors, Hanover, Pennsylvania. 30 p.

Seo Y; Kwak HS; Kim M; Jeong Y & Lee, Y. 2015. Effectiveness of Palate Cleansers on Various Alcoholic Beverages.
Journal of the Institute of Brewing 121(4):474-480. doi:10.1002/jib.248

Sigma-Aldrich. 2022. General Catalog. https://www.sigmaaldrich.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Smart Sensory Solutions Srl. 2022. The Innovative Software for Sensory and Consumer Tests. https://www.smartsensorybox.
com (Accessed on 8 June 2022).

Soehnle Industrial Solutions GmbH. 2022. Sohenle Silvia Retro Style Analogue Kitchen Scale W/Stainless Weighing
Bowl. https://www.soehnle-professional.com/en (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Sonaye SY & Baxi RN. 2012. Particle Size Measurement and Analysis of Flour. International Journal of
Engineering Research and Applications 2(3):1839-1842. from https://pdfs.semanticscholar.
org/733d/2329d88d08ea3a41070894fc5c558efd11c7.pdf (Accessed on 7 September 2018).

Spectra Plaza. 2022. Spectra Melangers. https://www.spectramelangers.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Stanley Black & Decker. 2022. Snap-off Knives. https://www.stanleytools.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Stefanelli EJ. 2022. Micrómetro virtual – Simulador en Milésimas de Milímetro. www.stefanelli.eng.br: https://www.
stefanelli.eng.br/es (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Stone H & Sidel JL. 2004. Sensory Evaluation Practices (3 ed.). Elsevier Academic Press, San Diego, USA. 326 p.

Sukha D. 2016. Elements of a Harmonized International Standard for Cocoa Flavour Assessment. A Proposal for Further
Consultation. Third Annual Seminar on Cocoa in the Americas, 5-7 September, 2016 pp. 23-25. Sonesta Hotel,
Guayaquil, Ecuador. https://www.cocoaqualitystandards.org/fileadmin/templates/CocoaQuality/Uploads/
Documents-and-reports/WG-Quality-Flavour-Standards-ENGLISH-11Set2017.pdf (Accessed on 4 May 2022).

211
Sukha D & Ali NA. 2016. Standard Operating Procedures for Cocoa Mass Production. University of the West Indies,
Trinidad Food Technology Section of the Cocoa Research Centre, St. Augustine, Trinidad and Tobago. 31 p.

Sukha, D., & Ali, N. A. 2017. Analysing Sensory and Processing Quality of Cocoa. In: Umaharan P. (ed.), Achieving
Sustainable Cultivation of Cocoa: Genetics, Breeding, Cultivation and Quality, Vol. I. Burleigh Dodds Science
Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom. pp. 395-442.

Sukha D & Rohsius C. 2004. Cocoa Cut Test Chart. Technical Guide. The University of Hamburg, Centre Klein Flottbek,
The University of the West Indies, Cocoa Research Center, Hamburg and St. Augustine. 6 p.

Sukha D; Butler D R; Umaharan P & Boult E. 2008. The Use of an Optimised Organoleptic Assessment Protocol to
Describe and Quantify Different Flavour Attributes of Cocoa Masss Made from Ghana and Trinitario Beans.
European Food Research and Technology 226(3):405-413.

Tasty Type Blog. 2008. Chocolate Pandan Ice Cream. http://tastytype.blogspot.com (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

Taylor, G. 2018. Quality Certification for Dry Cocoa Beans. https://docplayer.net/49925052-Quality-certification-for-


dry-cocoa-beans.html (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Tesa Technology. 2022. Tesa Products. https://tesatechnology.com/ (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

Teserba GmbH. 2022. The Magra Dried Fruit Cutting Units. http://www.teserba.ch (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

The Champion Juicer. 2022. Classic 2000 Household Black. https://championjuicer.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

The Grenada Chocolate Company. 2018. Refining and Conching. https://www.grenadachocolate.com (Accessed on
28 July 2018).

The Lab in the Bag. 2017. Aluminium Sensory Analysis Booths. https://thelabinthebag.com (Accessed on 1 May 2022).

Thermo Fisher Scientific Inc. 2022. Precision Water Baths User Manual. https://www.fishersci.es (Accessed on 3 May
2022).

Thomas Scientific LLC. 2022. Scientific Supplies. https://www.thomassci.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

TTBS (Trinidad and Tobago Bureau of Standards). 2019. TTS 646:2019. Cocoa Beans – Sampling (ISO 2292:2017, MOD).
Trinidad and Tobago Standard., Macoya, Trinidad and Tobago.

US FDA (United States Food and Drug Administration). 2017. MPM: V-4. Chocolate, Sugars, and Related Products.
Silver Spring, USA. https://www.fda.gov/food/laboratory-methods-food/mpm-v-4-chocolate-sugars-and-
related-products (Accessed on 25 July 2018).

USAID (United States Agency for International Development); EE (Equal Exchange) & TCHO (TechCHOcolate) Cooperative
Development Programme. 2018. Guide to the Cacao Sensory Analysis Tasting Form. USAID-Equal Exchange-
TCHO Cooperative Development Project. https://equalexchange.coop/sites/default/files/Tasting-Guide_vF-
JUNE2018.pdf (Accessed on 24 September 2018).

Vegan Baking Recipe. 2022. How To Make and Use a Double Boiler or Bain Marie. from http://www.veganbaking.net/:
http://www.veganbaking.net (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

212 | Guide for the Assessment of Cacao Quality and Flavour


Velmourougane K; Gopinandhan T & Bhat R. 2014. Application of Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point Principles
for Ochratoxin-A Prevention in Coffee Production Chain. In: Bhat R & Gómez-López VM. (eds.), Practical
Food Safety: Contemporary Issues and Future Directions. John Wiley & Sons Ltd, Oxford, United Kingdom.
pp. 577–595.

Vila Ayala J; Calliauw G; Foubert I; Dewettinck K; Dyer B & De Greyt W. 2007. Impacts of Bleaching and Packed Column
Steam Refining on Cocoa Butter Properties. Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society 84(11):1069-1077.

VWR International LLC. 2022. Dry block heater, Advanced, Digital, with Heated Lid. https://uk.vwr.com (Accessed on
3 May 2022).

Walfos Factory. 2021. Thermoresistant Flexible Spatula. https://www.simplyhealthyfamily.org (Accessed on 3 May 2022).

West Bend. 2022. Air Crazy Popocorn Machine. https://westbend.com (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

WHO (World Health Organization). 2006. How to Handrub? / How to Handwash? Standard World Health Organization
procedures of alcohol-based handrub and handwash with soap and water. https://www.who.int/gpsc/tools/
GPSC-HandRub-Wash.pdf (Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Wilton Brands LLC. 2003. Tools. https://www.wilton.com/ (Accessed on 10 June 2022).

Worth Point Corporation. 2022. Old Winnowing Sifter Basket. Maidu Mono Calif Indian. https://www.worthpoint.com
(Accessed on 2 May 2022).

Żyżelewicz D; Budryn G; Oracz J; Antolak H; Kręgiel D & Kaczmarska M. 2018. The Effect on Bioactive Components
and Characteristics of Chocolate by Functionalization with Raw Cocoa Beans. Food Research International
113:234-244. doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2018.07.017

213
Empowering
a new generation
of cacao producers
of excellence

Belmont Estate Grenada

You might also like