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Workplace redesign in the computer- Aided technological sewing process

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 S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
14 Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.)

Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process

Snježana Kirin, M. Sc., senior lecturer

Prof. Zvonko Dragčević, Ph.D.*
Assoc. Prof. Snježana Firšt Rogale, Ph.D.*
Karlovac University of Applied Sciences, Textile Department
Karlovac, Croatia
*University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, Department of Clothing Technology

Zagreb, Croatia
e-mail: [email protected]
Received December 12, 2013
UDK 687.02:658.542:331.82
Original scientific paper

In the real manufacturing process the technological operation of sewing

trousers side seams was recorded using a video system. Using modern meth-
ods of industrial engineering the structure of technological operation, work-
load (OADM) and share of unsuitable working postures (OWAS) were deter-
mined. It was found that at the existing workplace the unfavorable relationship
of man-machine-environment leads to a high degree of workload caused by
the forced position of spine and head, increased abdominal pressure, and
reduction in visual skills and motor skills. Using the ERGOPlan software a
redesign of the existing workplace was performed, and according to the an-
thropometric proportions of workers seating height, height of the machine
work surface, working methods were determined, and using the method of
predetermined times (MTM) the optimal working method with associated time
norms was determined. Dynamic and static simulation of performing the
technological operation at the redesigned workplace shows that the work is
done in an ergonomically favorable posture with considerably reducing work-
load, which results in increasing workplace productivity while reducing fa-
tigue.
Key words: technological sewing operation, workplace design, computer-
aided analysis of workplace

1. Introduction in a single working step of sewing stable workplaces of closed type with
indicate that 20-30 % of the time is steady performance where an opera-
In the garment manufacturing proces-
spent for machine-hand sewing sub- tor performs technical operations of
ses the technological sewing opera- operations, 60-70 % of the time is approximately similar characteristics.
tion is the most important phase and spent for support-hand sub-opera- This workplace allows a higher de-
also dominantly present on average tions, while about 10 % of the time is gree of technical division of labor,
to 70 % of the total production time spent on unproductive work (perso- specialization and shorter training
of a garment while the technological nal hygiene, planned and unplanned time, so it achieves a higher degree of
operations of cutting and finishing losses of time and lack of discipline). the efficiency of machines and devi-
garments are significantly less pre- According to the organization of the ces, better work piece transport throu-
sent (about 30 %). Investigations of work process technological sewing gh a set of workplaces, reduction of
the structure of daily working hours operations belong to the so-called production cycle and increase in the
S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.) 15

production capacity of each workpla- body posture while workers perform

ce, production lines and the system their work process [3].
[1].
In the technological sewing process 2. Ergonomic considerations
work is done most often in a sitting of sitting position
position, whereby the worker during
In the technological sewing process
sewing uses the trunk and upper lim-
various factors, depending on gar-
bs to perform machine-hand and au-
ment structure, production organiza-
xiliary technological sub-operations,
tion, type and equipment of the work-
and the feet to achieve the required
place and working method affect
stitch speed of the sewing machine in
workplace design. The purpose of
machine-hand sewing sub-opera-
workplace design is to adapt working
tions. Because of the physical and Fig.1 Interaction of workplace and
methods and means of work in order worker on body posture at work
mechanical properties of the work
to mitigate and reduce stress and fa-
piece, careful handling is necessary tigue during performance of the work
which requires extremely good motor • equipped with means of work adap-
process, to increase production qua-
skills that are reflected in the mobili- ted to the physiological and psycho-
lity of the garment, and to reduce pro-
ty of the fingers, hands, arms and feet, logical characteristics of the wor-
duction costs and production time
and their concerted action and good ker’s body.
[4]. To design workplaces successful-
tactile sensitivity. Machine-hand Working posture should allow good
ly, it is important to apply technolo-
sewing sub-operation and guiding the mobility of the extremities, ergono-
gical and technical knowledge in the
work piece is performed within the mically favorable arrangement of
field of clothing engineering and te-
central visual field with a high degree work and visual zones and balanced
chnology. Industrial engineering met-
of vision focus, which significantly position during the work process. In
hods are used to determine the level
burdens the visual system and redu- the technological sewing process sit-
of success of the working method,
ces the level of concentration requi- and ergonomic studies are used to ting working posture is most present;
red for accurately guiding the work design space and to arrange the equi- a correct and physiologically correct
piece. In technological sewing pro- pment and means of work at the sitting position reduces fatigue at
cesses it often happens that because workplace. Workplace design is ba- work and spine load, and a suitable
of the need of dynamic work forced sed on the adaptation of the workpla- sitting position considerably contri-
postures of the body and head, non- ce to the anthropometric measure- butes to increasing concentration and
physiological sitting, isometric loa- ments of the worker with potential work efficiency. This includes the
ding of the lower limbs and a sub- reach zones and necessary vision fo- adjustment of sitting height, height
stantial load of arms and legs result cus and arrangement of visual fields and work surface size of means of
[2]. (Fig.1) which allows a faultless per- work, pedal position, and the distance
To achieve successful operation and formance of the technological opera- of the seat from the edge of the work
high productivity in the technological tion in a work posture which requires surface to the anthropometric measu-
sewing process, it is necessary to less consumption of body energy, and rements of the female worker who
achieve the harmony of the relation- the structure of the technological ope- works at a workplace [7].
ship between worker-machine-envi- ration provides a natural and normal Poorly designed workplace causes
ronment, which is achieved by opti- rhythm of work with rhythmic brea- inconvenient sitting, and there is a
mal workplace design based on ergo- thing and relaxation of muscles of the considerable load of the lumbar and
nomic principles, and by developing chest and abdomen. cervical vertebrae, which is reflected
a favorable working method with Reduced workload and efficient per- in an increased pressure on cartilagi-
corresponding time norms that will formance of a work task are achieved nous rings, and a disease can occur
enable a more favorable structure of if the workplace is [5, 6]: (lumbar ischialgia) or professional de-
the technological operation by in- • adapted to the worker’s body and generative changes (scoliosis, kypho-
creasing the degree of machine effi- mobility of the muscular system by sis).
ciency and hourly production and its design and dimensions, Long-lasting load of individual gro-
reducing psycho-physical workload. • designed in such a way that the ups of muscles (neck, paravertebral,
Working posture should allow good worker works in a working posture gluteus) caused by sitting leads to fa-
movement of arms and legs, ergono- which requires minimal static and tigue and weakening motor functions.
mically favorable arrangement of dynamic load and that he uses mu- In sitting position due to constant sta-
work and visual zones and stable scle groups of lower level, tic pressure on internal organs mi-
 S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
16 Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.)

croorganisms causing infections and Properties of the seat and backrest as The underlying principles in the de-
urinary tract inflammation (cystitis, well as other factors such as percep- sign and construction of seats require
ureatitis) are created in the abdominal tion, relaxation, general wellbeing of providing the proper distribution of
cavity. With a poorly designed work- the body, and degree of fatigue, human body mass, the possibility to
place or a working method, the biomechanical conditions, and stress adjust sitting height, depth and avai-
worker sits on the edge of the seat, and blood circulation are essential for lability of space, the possibility to
which is only a temporary relief, and comfortable sitting. The feeling of stabilize body posture, but also mobi-
it causes an increased anterior flexion comfort is associated with the para- lity, visibility of a certain space and
of the cervical vertebrae and the head, meters such as pressure, temperature sitting comfort.
causing neck and shoulder stiffness, and relative humidity at the contact
headache, high eye strain, fatigue and point of the body with the surface. 3. Experimental part
reduced necessary attention. In addi- Mechanical comfort is defined as part
of the overall comfort which depends The experimental part of the techno-
tion, due to the unsuitable sitting po-
on the distribution of contact pressu- logical operation of sewing trousers
sition the normal function of the re-
re over the human body in contact side seam performed on a special
spiratory system is reduced, and the
with the seat. Contact pressure, its MAUSER SPEZIAL 9652-13M/14-
reduced level of blood oxygenation
distribution and duration of action are 363-W2X4 Overlock Sewing Machi-
also causes headaches [8].
the principal factors of mechanical ne included:
In the technological sewing processes
comfort. According to the theoretical • video recording in the real manufac-
the middle and anterior sitting postu-
model there are different factors of turing process,
re interchange because of necessary
comfort and discomfort in sitting. • analyzing the existing workplace
dynamic work, and the frequency of
They can be divided into three levels: (structure and duration of perfor-
the trunk movement depends on the
system, seat, man. Physical characte- ming the technological operation,
type and characteristic of the techno-
ristics of the working seat like shape, and determining workload using
logical operation. In the anterior sit-
softness, environment (type of work OWAS and OADM methods),
ting posture load of the disc of the
task) load the body and joints of sit- • redesigning the workplace using the
spine is not evenly distributed, so the
ting persons with different forces and ERGOPlan software package,
disc moves forward, while in the
pressures. Internal powers reducing • redesigning the existing workplace
middle sitting posture it is uniformly
muscle changes in internal forces, and developing a new optimum
distributed.
increased pressure on intervertebral work method with corresponding
The seat is one of the most important discs including nerves and circula-
elements of the workplace in the te- normal times : MTM (Motion Times-
tion, as well as higher body tempera- tudy Measurement) and RAV-
chnological sewing process; thus, ture causing further chemical, phy-
ergonomically suitable sitting, which method (method of determining
siological and biomechanical reac- machine-hand times of the techno-
satisfies convenient comfort and mo- tions disturb external load, Fig.2
bility, necessary degree of trunk ba- logical sub-operation of sewing flat
[11]. seams) in order to rationalize work
lance and freedom of movement are
essential when performing dynamic
movements. Stable working posture
and the required degree of balance is
achieved by foot and backrest. The
contact area between the seat and the
body is on average 26 cm2 to which
about 75 % of the total mass of the
body is transferred, whereby on the
surface of the seat pane a specific
pressure of 5.9 · 105 to 7.0 · 105 Pa is
achieved. In the technological pro-
cess of the garment industry indu-
strial seats DIN 45551 and 66233 are
most commonly used; they are adap-
table to the anatomical shape of the
human body, and the curve of the
backrest supports the lumbar region Fig.2 Theoretical model of comfort and discomfort and their factors at the level of
of the spine (L1 - L5) [9,10]. man, seat and system
S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.) 17

process, to reduce level of workload photographed with a digital camera movements it is possible to find out
and time execution. Canon EOS 350D whose image qua- optimum and cost-effective work
lity is 8 MPix. The camera has 10x methods and to determine normal
3.1. Measuring equipment and optical zoom, 4x digital zoom, 1.8 time of performing technological
measuring methods “LCD color monitor. Supported for- operations [12, 13].
The technological operation of mats were JPEG and RAW. Compu- In order to redesign a workplace
sewing the trousers side seam was ter program ERGOPlan or module using the MTM system, it is neces-
recorded using the video system of ERGOMas and module ERGO-Man sary to define a logical set of move-
Pounje, Hrvatska Kostajnica. To re- were used to appropriately redesign ments according to the variable of
cord the technological sewing opera- the workplace with the corresponding basic movements (length and type of
tion, a video camera SONY DCR- method for the technological opera- movements), accuracy of execution
HC42E with time generator with an tion. Tests were performed at the Fa- and necessary visual control by whi-
accuracy of ± 0.1 s was used. The vi- culty of Mechanical Engineering, ch the optimum method of perfor-
deo camera was placed in such a way University of Maribor, Production ming a sub-operation is determined.
that the workplace was present in the System Design Laboratory. The MTM system is used to design
field of vision as body plan which al- The following parameters were mea- workplaces and production systems
lowed recording with maximum zo- sured in order to define the state of [14].
nes of dynamic movements in perfor- the work environment: In order to determine normal machi-
ming the work process. The video a) temperature and relative humidity ne-hand times of the technological
recording was used to test the applied (using a thermo-hygrometer, mo- sub-operation of sewing straight
work method, determination of time del YF-180) with a temperature seams, the RAV software package as
norms and working postures of the measurement accuracy of ± 0,5 % a mathematical model obtained by
female worker in performing the te- + 1 °C ranged from 0 to 60 ° C, and systematic research of process sewing
chnological operation. DVD recorder a relative humidity measurement parameters using the patented measu-
SONY SLV D970P, personal compu- accuracy of ± 3 % ranged from 10 ring equipment for measuring process
ter and color printer were used for to 70 %, and ± 4 % ranged from 10 parameters (MMPP) developed at the
processing video recording. The vi- to 95 %, respectively, Department of Clothing Technology
deo can be slowed down (1/4, 1/8) or b) sound level (using a Tenmars digi- of the Faculty of Textile Technology
completely stopped for a detailed tal sound level meter) measuring of the University of Zagreb was used
analysis of the performance of move- sound strength ranged from 30 to [15]. The established mathematical
ments and corresponding posture. A 130 dB, frequency from 31.5 Hz to model determines the dependence of
PC Pentium 4, 2.8 GHz, 1024 MB 8 kHz with an accuracy of ± 1,5 normal times of machine-hand subo-
RAM with the installed Microsoft %, peratios on nominal sewing machine
Windows 2000 operating system was c) illumination (using a digital light stitching speed (vn = 1000-7000 rpm),
used. The computer has a graphics level meter, model YF-170), which number of stitches in a seam (Bu =
card NVIDIA Ge Force FX5200 and can measure the light ranged from 10-300), seam length, and sewing
supports a resolution of 1280 x 1024 200 to 20,000 lx) and machine type. The model also incor-
Pix and has 32 bit color. To analyze d) air flow (using the anemometer EA porates the correction factor for the
the video recording, the computer - 3010) with the possibility to mea- sewing machine type which is caused
program Adobe Premier 5 and Corel sure in the range of 0.2 and 30 ms-1 by the complexity of using the machi-
Draw 11 was used. Computer proces- with an accuracy of ± 5 %). ne, the complexity of the machine
sing of video recordings enables the In order to determine an optimal mechanism and inertial characteristi-
analysis of the video recording “fra- working method with correspon- cs of a particular group of sewing
me to frame” in Adobe Premier 5, ding normal times, the MTM system machines (K1). The complete esta-
where the time of performing particu- was used. This system allows analyti- blished mathematical model of the
lar technological sub-operations in cal subdividing technological opera- RAV method for determining machi-
the structure of the technological ope- tions to the level of basic movements, ne-hand technological sub-operations
ration was determined. Furthermore, and corresponding variables accor- is as follows:
typical static frames were transferred ding to movement length, accuracy
to the computer program Corel Draw and dynamics of execution, necessary tar= {Bu·[0,227-0,025·ln
11, where the angle of spine curvatu- visual and muscular controls and pos- (vn)]+0,334}·K1 (1)
re and head was determined using sibilities of coordinated work with
Angular Dimension Tool. combined and simultaneous move- For the mathematical model of the
The workplace where the technologi- ments. By breaking down the techno- RAV method the corresponding com-
cal operation was performed was logical operation to the level of basic puter program to calculate the times
 S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
18 Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.)

of machine-hand technological se- 3.1.1. Analysis of the structure and performing the technological opera-
wing sub-operations was developed, time of performing the tech- tion is big enough and suitable for
using the default parameters of nomi- nological operation further analysis.
nal sewing machine stitching speed, The technological operation of sew- Fig.4 shows the ground-plan repre-
number of stitches in a seam and the ing a side seam for girls’ trousers size sentation of the existing workplace
correction factor for the sewing mac- 15 whose cut length amounts to 95 for the technological operation of
hine type. The program calculates the cm with an ease of 4 cm is performed sewing the trousers side seam.
normal time of a machine-hand tech- on a special MAUSER SPEZIAL By analyzing the operator’s work ca-
nological sub-operation in sewing, 9652-131M/14-363-W2X4 Overlock pabilities according to subjective per-
expressed, depending on the need, in Sewing Machine. The machine sews ception a degree of proficiency Kp =
seconds, TMU, minutes and hours[16- chain stitch type 515 with four sew- 1.0 was determined. In the manufac-
18]. ing threads and two needles and a turing plant an average temperature
To determine working body posture, specific stitch density of 5 cm-1. Nom- of 28.4 °C and a relative humidity of
the OWACO (Ovaco Working Pos- inal stitching speed of the sewing 57.7 % with a weak air flow were
ture Analysis System) was used machine is 6,000 rpm. The machine measured. According to certain para-
which is based on the analysis and has two pedals of which one pedal is meters of the working environment
share of working postures of spine, used to lift or to lower the presser the coefficient of environment action
upper limbs, hand, lower limbs and foot, and the other one is used to Ka = 1.55, and the associated fatigue
head when performing the work pro- guide the sewing process. The opera- coefficient Kn = 0.11 were determi-
cess. Depending on the portion of tor recorded performs the sewing op- ned.
time of certain body working postu- eration in 5 seam segments, Fig.3, Table 1 shows the structure of the te-
res, the need for redesigning the with a total seam length of 100 cm. chnological operation of sewing the
workplace and working methods are According to the existing working trousers side seam with correspon-
emphasized. This method allows de- method a bundle of back trousers par- ding time norms: basic time (t0), nor-
termining unfavorable working pos- ts is on the left side of the work sur- mal time (tn) and real time (ts).
tures of individual body parts at work, face of the sewing machine, and a Temporal values for putting together
the cause of their occurrence, and this bundle of front trousers parts lies on and positioning the work piece are
analysis makes it possible to design the operator’s lap causing non-ergo- short, and therefore they are in the
or redesign the workplace so that the nomic sitting on the edge of the chair analysis of the video recording con-
worker works in a working posture, seat, often changing the sitting posi- nected with the technological sub-
which requires a minimum of static tion with a distinct anterior flexion of operation of taking the work piece.
and dynamic load [19]. the head and trunk. Balanced position Due to the short duration of the exe-
can be established only using the cution the technological sub-opera-
The OADM method (workplace eva-
feet. tion of thread cutting off and the te-
luation analysis) developed by J.
The technological operation of chnological sub-operation of laying
Sušnik et al. makes it possible to
sewing the trousers side seam was off the previous trousers were unified
detect deficiencies and failures that
recorded using a video system and with the technological sub-operation
occurred when designing a workpla-
contains 31 consecutive executions. of aligning the trousers. The total nor-
ce, as well as shortcomings in the
The coefficient of workplace stabili- mal time of performing the technolo-
organization of the production sys-
zation (Ks) with a 95 % probability gical operation is 35.0 s, the duration
tem, and provides an analysis and
indicates that the video recording of of auxiliary hand technological sub-
evaluation of the workplace with re-
spect to static , dynamic and thermal
loads, necessary visual control and
state of the working environment [20,
21].
The ERGOPlan software package al-
lows the virtual simulation of the
continuous workflow of the complete
process using an integrated module
for developing the structure of a tech-
nological operation, workplace de-
sign, ergonomic workplace analysis,
execution-time analysis, cost analysis Fig.3 Sketch of developing the technological operation of sewing the trousers side
and analysis of workload. seam with control points
S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.) 19

with the browser for the evaluation of

body pasture. Fig.5 shows the per-
missible percentage of presence of
each working posture within the ef-
fective daily working hours and the
results obtained by analyzing the
workload of the worker when perfor-
ming the technological operation.
For the technological sewing opera-
tion investigated the duration of the
shift with prescribed daily rest break
and time loss of 10 % (due to organi-
zational loss and personal needs) ef-
fective daily working time is 405
min.
Tab.2 shows the results obtained by
the OWAS method.
Fig.6 shows boundary working po-
stures of the worker when performing
Fig.4 Ground plan representation of the workplace for the technological operation the technological operation of sewing
of sewing the trousers side seam the trousers side seam with kinematic
chains. A female worker of a shorter
operations is 23.9 s or 68.3 %, while 3.1.2. Analysis of workload with the anthropometric measurement (157
the duration of auxiliary hand techno- OWAS method cm) occupies the workplace. Due to
logical operations is 11.1 and31.7 % For the analysis of workload in the the unmatched height of the work
respectively. technological operation of sewing the surface and the height of the chair the
Based on the data obtained by analy- trousers side seam the OWAS method worker sits in an unfavorable working
zing the video recordings and by cor- was used, whereby 825 records of posture. The consequence is a nega-
recting with the fatigue coefficient Kn individual body postures was col- tive angle of the joint system trunk-
and the coefficient of environment lected. Based on them the share and upper leg that is less than 90°; this is
action Ka the manufacturing time is duration of each working posture the reason why the worker works
41.0 s with an ideal hourly produc- within the effective daily working with a large inclination of the head
tion of 87 Ch-1. hours was calculated and compared and trunk (>15°) most of the working

Tab.1 Structure of the technological operation of sewing the trousers side seam by technological sub-operations with associated
time norms
No. of Description of the technological Type of the Marks of a End t0 [s] tn [s] ts [s]
technological sub-operation technologi- break point points of
sub-operation cal sub- the seg-
operation ment
1 taking the front trouser part (tp )r - - 5.2 5.2 6.1
taking the back trousers part and put-
2 (tp )r - - 5.2 5.2 6.0
ting together, positioning
3 machine-hand sewing the segment A (tt )ar - 1-2 3.4 3.4 4.1
thread cutting off, laying off the previ-
4 (tp )r 2 - 5.4 5.4 6.3
ous trousers, aligning
5 machine-hand sewing the segment B (tt )ar - 2-3 2.0 2.0 2.3
6 manual aligning (tp )r 3 - 2.7 2.7 3.2
7 machine-hand sewing the segment C (tt )ar - 3-4 2.0 2.0 2.3
8 manual aligning (tp )r 4 - 2.8 2.8 3.3
9 machine-hand sewing the segment D (tt )ar - 4-5 2.1 2.1 2.5
10 manual aligning (tp )r 5 - 2.6 2.6 3.0
11 machine-hand sewing the segment E (tt )ar - 5-6 1.6 1.6 1.9
Σ 35.0 35.0 41.0
 S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
20 Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.)

sociated grade of individual charac-

teristics.
Work parameters are denoted with a
code number and alphabetic charac-
ter. Alphabetic characters indicate the
criterion according to which grading
is performed. Each parameter is grad-
ed by one criterion, so-called key.
The criteria are divided into:
- alternative (A) - grade of the pres-
ence of some parameters,
- significance (V) - grade of signifi-
cance in contrast to other states at
Fig.5 Measurement histogram according to the OWAS method at the work place of
sewing the trousers side seam the workplace,
- intensity (I) - grade of the intensity
of a parameter,
- duration (T) - grade of the temporal
duration of a parameter,
- frequency (p) - grade of the repeti-
tiveness of a parameter at the work-
place,
- parameters (K) - grade is different
and given with parameter descrip-
tion.
Criteria of significance, intensity, du-
ration, frequency and characteristics
have a scale of six grades (0-5) while
the alternative has only two (0, 1).
Workpiece positioning Machine-hand sewing of Workpiece alignment On the basis of the grade of worker
a workpiece load using the OADM method at the
Fig.6 Boundary working posture at the workplace for sewing the trousers side seam existing workplace the data obtained
with kinematic chains indicate a high degree of motor coor-
dination of body, arms and legs, whe-
time trying to reduce the distance of side seam was performed. The grade reby muscle load and forced positions
the eyes from the work piece in the encompasses the characteristics of an of the body and head as a consequen-
technological sub-operation of posi- operating system (work piece, means ce of an unfavorable sitting position
tioning and machine-hand sewing. of work, workplace, worker, working and the discrepancy of workplace di-
environment), the work task itself mensions as well as an inadequate
3.1.3. Analysis of workload with the method of work result. The technolo-
OADM method (complexity of method of work), pos-
gical operation is performed on a
sible load (necessary motor skills,
By using the OADM method or a sewing machine where a high degree
questionnaire with 216 descriptions concentration, qualification), and
of work repetitiveness is present, and
of possible states in the workplace, an health safety (risk of injury and oc- the worker handles the subject of
analysis and gradin of the workplace cupational diseases). Table 3 provides work more than 2/3 of working time;
was performed where the technolog- an overview of worker load for the due to the necessary precision of per-
ical operation of sewing the trousers technological operation with the as- forming the technological operation

Tab.2 Unfavorable working postures and their temporal values according to the OWAS method
Joint system Achieved angle or position Effective time [ %] Effective time [min]
anterior spinal flexion (1.2.) > 150 35.1 142.2
anterior head flexion (5.2.) >300 84.1 341.0
upper arms (2.2.) away from the body 97.6 395.3
hand and fingers (3.1.) precision work 93.6 379.1
sitting (4.1.) exchange between anterior and posterior postures 100.0 405.0
S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.) 21

Tab.3 Workload according to the OADM method for the technological operation of sewing the trousers side seam
Code Worker load Grade
103,105,108 worker continuously handles the subject of work more than 2/3 of working time T/4
122 worker continuously handles the means of work more than 2/3 of working time T/4
139,140,141 use of fingers, hands and feet more than 2/3 of working time P/4
148, 151 desk and pedal cannot be adjusted K/2
149 height of the chair can be adjusted K/2
152,153 check lighting and noise at the workplace K/3
157 check climatic parameters at the workplace K/3
182 connection of the workplace with the continuity of the work process K/5
189 division of labor present K/4
191 great responsibility at the workplace I/4
216 female worker puts together cut parts V/5
249 work is performed on a sewing machine with repetitive work of the hands K/2
250,251 visual acuity necessary K/3
253 eye accommodation necessary P/4
259 color recognition necessary K/3
260 precise assembly of the work piece necessary K/4
correct contour tracking necessary, and the worker should be calm, self-critical,
274,286,288,294 V/3
motivated and persevering at work
311 non-physiological sitting present T/5
318 forced position of the neck and head P/4
321 isometric foot load P/4
328,329,330,331,334 load of fingers, hands and feet present P/3
important is the simultaneous work of hands with finger dexterity and oculomotor coordi-
342,343,344 I/3
nation
357,364 spine and eye diseases possible K3

it is necessary for the worker to pos- ce was redesigned using the ERGO- vable stand on the right side is used
sess good sensory abilities of the sen- Plan software package and its modu- for laying off the work piece.
sory organs of vision which refer to les ERGOMas and ERGOMan. Ac- Fig.7 shows the redesigned workpla-
visual acuity such as the ability to cording to the anthropometric measu- ce for the technological operation of
perceive details and parts. High dy- rements of the worker (body height sewing the trousers side seam which
namism of movements performed at 157 cm) and work piece size (front was obtained using the module ER-
the workplace requires the ability of and back trousers part) the computer GOMan with a 3D (a), ground plane
accommodation and adaptation of the method ERGOMan was used to de- (b) and side view (c) representation
eye. By analyzing the workplace, it termine the height of the work seat of Fig.8 shows a detailed ground-plan
has been found that it is necessary to 450 mm including pedal height (5 representation of the workplace for
perform additional measurements cm) and footrest for lightweight shoes
the technological operation of sewing
from the standpoint of technological (2 cm), work surface height of the
the trousers side seam with reach zo-
problems, time study, and to verify sewing machine (740 mm); due to the
nes and horizontal angles of vision.
the state of the working environment work piece size it was necessary to
After redesigning the work place a
and the impact of non- physiological increase the work surface of the
statistical analysis (initial working
sitting on work load [22]. sewing machine on the left side to
1250 x 850 mm. In this way a comfor- posture) was performed; this verified
3.1.4. Workplace redesign table sitting position was achieved, if the height and the size of the work
Investigations (analysis) of the tech- and the line of the viewing angle surface and sitting height match the
nological operation of sewing the towards the central sewing work zone body height of the worker. It was
trousers side seam indicate the need is less than 40 ° with respect to the found that the worker takes the pro-
to redesign workplaces and to find standard line of viewing from a di- per sitting working posture, Fig.9a,
out a more favorable method of work stance of 350-400 mm. This redesi- and that in the work place the machi-
which could reduce the degree of gned workplace makes it possible ne, work surface and work pieces are
load due to unfavorable working po- that both work pieces are placed on located within the zone of normal
stures. For this purpose the workpla- the machine work surface, and a mo- arm reach, Fig.9b.
 S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
22 Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.)

• positioning the work pieces

• overlocking the seam
• thread trimming
• laying off the work piece.
Bundles of work pieces are located
on the left side of the work surface,
and work pieces are taken from the
bundles using a logical set of basic
Fig.7 Redesigned workplace for the technological operation of sewing the trousers movements as a standard set: taking
side seam: a) 3D representation, b) ground-plan representation and c) side a work piece with both hands from
view representation one and then from the other bundle
and transporting into the central
work zone [23].
Since work pieces are large in size
(front and back trousers parts), an ad-
ditional control of the set of move-
ments that can be accomplished by
raising the work piece prior to tran-
sporting and by changing in right
hand grip (RL1/R30E/G1A) is neces-
sary. Thus, the controlled grasp of the
work piece with both hands is accom-
plished where the distance between
the grips ranges from 10 to 30 cm.
The logical set of movements for this
kind of taking is accomplished by si-
multaneous movements of reaching
with both arms to bundle I, taking the
work piece with both hands and tran-
sporting it to bundle II, precise put-
Fig.8 Proposal of redesigning the workplace with reach zones and horizontal angles ting together (with a tolerance zone
of vision for the technological operation of sewing the trousers side seam from 0.4 to 1.6 mm) and mutual tran-
sporting into the central sewing work
zone [24].
The workplace was dynamically gned workplace (Fig.8) and static
The positioning of the work piece
analyzed after the performed static analysis of the working posture
under the needle of the sewing ma-
analysis of the workplace or verifying (Fig.10) a design of the optimum
chine is performed by transporting
the compliance of the workplace di- method of work using the MTM sy-
mutually assembled parts to the pres-
mensions with the anthropometric stem was performed:
sure foot, their precise putting under
measurements of the worker. Accor- • taking work pieces and transporting
the machine needle and lowering the
ding to the ground plan of the redesi- into the work zone
pressure foot.
The sewing sub-operation is perfor-
med with the simultaneous control of
keeping the left and right arm and
guiding both parts together in the
course of sewing.
At the redesigned workplace sewing
side seam can be performed in three
segments: the first segment ranges
from trousers length to knee height
(35 cm), the second segment ranges
from knee height to waist height (35
cm) and the third segment ranges
Fig.9 Static analysis of a) the working posture at the redesigned workplace b) with from hip height to waist line (30 cm),
corresponding zones of normal and maximum arm reach Fig.10. The corresponding normal
S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.) 23

Tab.4 Presentation of the logical set of basic movements developed according to the MTM system when designing an optimum
method of work for the technological operation of sewing the trousers side seam
MTM analysis of work
Technological operation: Sewing the trousers side seam
Right hand movement
No. Left hand movement description Symbol TMU Symbol
description
1. Taking, putting together, transportation
1.1 Reach for bundle I mR60B 18.5
1.2 Grasp the work piece G5/G2 5.6
1.3 Lift the work piece M30B 13.3 (mR40Am) Reach for work piece I
1.4 0.0 G5 Grasp work piece I
1.5 11.7 mR30E Reach the arm along the edge
1.6 2.0 G1A Grasp the edge of work piece I
Transport work piece I to bundle
1.7 Transport work piece I to bundle II M20C 11.7 (M20B)
II
1.8 Put on point I P1SE 5.6
1.9 Grasp the work piece together RL1/R4B/G2 11.0
1.10 14.8 RL1/R30E/G1A Change the grip
Transport the work piece to
1.11 5.8 M6C
point II
1.12 5.6 P1SE Put together on point II
1.13 11.0 RL1/R4B/G2 Grasp the work piece together
Transport the wok piece into the central Transport the work piece into the
1.14 M60B 28.3 M60B
sewing work zone central sewing work zone
2. Positioning
2.1 Transport towards the needle i (M4C) 8.5 FM Lift the pressure foot
2.2 Precise positioning under the needle P1SE 5.6
2.3 8.5 FM Lower the pressure foot
3. Sewing (3 segments)
3.1 Activate the pedal FM 8.5
Sew segment I
3.2 tar 77.8
(35 cm)
3.3 Deactivate the pedal FM 8.5 (RL1) Let off the work piece
3.4 14.8 mR40E/G1A Change the grip
3.5 11.4 M6C/P1SE Precisely put on point II
3.6 Activate the pedal FM 8.5
3.7 Sew segment II (35 cm) tar 77.8
3.8 Deactivate the pedal FM 8.5 (RL1) Let off the work piece
3.9 14.8 mR40E/G1A Change of the grip
3.10 11.4 M6C/P1SE Precisely put on point II
3.11 Activate the pedal FM 8.5
3.12 Sew segment III (30 cm) tar 66.7
3.13 Deactivate the pedal FM 8.5
Cut off the thread with the
4.
thread trimmer
13.5 Transport to the mechanism and
4.1 Transport to the mechanism and cut off M10C/P1SE (M10C/P1SE)
cut off
Laying off the work piece on the
5.
movable stand
(RL1/R30E/
5.1 Transport the work piece M120BCD 25.2 Change of the grip
G1A)
5.2 Let off the work piece RL1 2.0 RL1
5.3 Return to balanced position R50 Em 15.4 R50 Em Return to balanced position
Σ 549.3 TMU=19.8 s
 S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
24 Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.)

ration indicates that the worker works

in a favorable working posture with a
significantly reduced workload (green
OWAS) with the tolerant presence
(less than 10 %) of unfavorable
working postures (1.2, 2.2, 3.1, 4.1
and 5.2).
Based on the performed computer-
aided work place redesign for the te-
chnological operation of sewing the
trousers side seam, it is evident that
Fig.10 Sketch of developing the technological operation of sewing the trousers side the workplace was ergonomically
seam with control points at the redesigned workplace
more favorably designed, and a more
favorable method of work was deter-
times of machine-hand sub-opera- The technological sub-operation of mined resulting in lower workload
tions for each segment are determi- taking the back trouser leg part and and fatigue.
ned by the RAV method. putting together is shown as one te-
The thread is cut off at the end of the chnological sub-operation because it 4. Discussion and conclusion
technological sub-operation. is performed in the same working po- For the technological operation of
The work piece is laid off at the end sture. Likewise, the technological sewing the trousers side seam a video
of the technological operation, It is sub-operation of positioning and ma- recording in real production time was
laid off on the movable stand on the chine-hand sewing was also unified. performed; the existing workplace
right side of the designed workplace The OWAS analysis of each working was analyzed according to the struc-
10 to 15 cm under the work surface. posture is presented for each techno- ture and time of performing the ope-
After sewing the worker moves from logical sub-operation. The simulation ration and work load was determined
anterior sitting position to middle sit- of performing the technological ope- (OWAS and OADM method).
ting position creating an elevated dy-
namic zone of activity which enables
laying off a bigger size work piece on
the movable stand using simultaneous
movements of both arms within nor-
mal reach.
Tab.4 shows a logical set of basic mo-
vements developed according to the
MTM method when designing an op-
timum method of work for the tech-
nological operation of sewing the
trousers side seam.
By redesigning the workplace and
using the analytical method with the
MTM system the normal time of exe-
cution amounts to 19.8 s, and proces-
sing time is 23.2 s.
According to the designed optimal
method of work specified by the
MTM system the logical set of move-
ments using the computer module
ERGOMan simulating the perfor-
mance of technological operations at
the redesigned workplace was deter-
mined. Fig.11 shows the performance
of the technological operation of
sewing the trousers side seam accor-
ding to the technological sub-opera- Fig.11 Simulation of the dynamic analysis of the workplace for the technological
tions. operation of sewing the trousers side seam
S. KIRIN et al.: Workplace redesign in the computer-aided technological sewing process,
Tekstil 63 (1-2) 14-26 (2014.) 25

It was found out that the unfavorable (posture 3.1) amounting to 93.6 % of unfavorable working postures (1.1.;
relationship man-machine-environ- working time (379.1 min). Unfavora- 2.2. and 5.2.) is less than 10 %.
ment causes a high level of workload ble working postures (1.2, 2.2, 3.1, On the basis of the research con-
as a consequence of the forced posi- 4.1 and 5.2) and their significantly ducted modern methods of industrial
tion of spine and head, increase in increased temporal value in the work engineering were approached and cri-
abdominal pressure, reduction in vi- process (Tab.2) indicate the need for teria indicating the need for redesi-
sual abilities and motor skills caused a modification of the existing work- gning the existing workplace were
by inappropriate angles of the asso- place. developed.
ciated kinematic joint systems. The workplace was redesigned using This kind of the model including a set
The existing workplace was not desi- the ERGOPlan software package ac- of procedures can be used in clothing
gned according to the anthropometric cording to the anthropometric measu- engineering for redesigning existing
measurements of the worker (sitting rements of a 157 cm tall female workplaces or designing new work-
height, work surface height, distance worker. Fig.7 and 8 show the redesi- places already in the design phase of
of the trunk from the edge of the work gned workplace with a sitting height production systems.
surface) causing non-ergonomic sit- of 45.0 cm from the floor whereby the The design process is based on an-
ting at the seat edge, frequent change lower leg length is pretty high (44.3 thropometric measurements of wor-
of the sitting position with pronoun- cm) and additions for the medium kers and setting up compatible man-
ced anterior head and trunk flexion, pedal height (5.0 cm) and light-wei- machine relationships and optimal
and balanced position is achieved ght shoes (2.0 cm). Besides that, due methods of work that will lead to in-
only using the feet. to the work piece size it is necessary creased productivity of the workplace
According to the used method of to expand the machine work surface and lower levels of worker load and
work the technological operation of on the left side to 1280x850 mm. This fatigue.
sewing the trousers side seam is per- results in a comfortable sitting with
This work is part of investigation in
formed in six auxiliary-hand sub- optimum horizontal and vertical an-
frame of short term financial support
operations and five machine-hand gles of vision, and movements are
of investigation entitled Intelligent
sub-operations within which a 100 carried out within the normal reach
and protective clothing - the charac-
cm long seam is sewn in five segmen- (movements of type III). The balan-
teristics and parameters of high-tech
ts (Tab. 1; Fig. 3). Normal duration of ced position of the trunk in sitting is
methods of joining their parts, which
the execution of the operation amoun- achieved using the feet and the
is financed by University of Zagreb.
ts to 35.0 s, and processing time backrest.
amounts to 41.0 s. For this kind of the workplace a new
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