HAZE

Sweater
HAZE SWEATER - V1
The Haze Sweater is my festive free release for 2022. Inspired by traditional
Nordic knitting, it is a sweater with a circular yoke that is worked both top down
and in the round. The yoke is decorated with stranded colourwork that is fun and
easy to knit. First, a double-folded collar is worked. You will then work the yoke, all
of which is charted and shaped with simple yarn-over increases, before starting
some German short rows to give the sweater a bit of extra structure. You then
divide the sleeve and body sections of the yoke, cast on some underarm stitches,
and proceed to work the body. You will then work the sleeves.

Thank you so much for your support of TKPG over the past year; I'm so grateful
and so pleased to be able to share this pattern with you as thanks for everything.

If you really enjoyed this pattern and would like to support my work financially, my
Ko-Fi page can be found here.

Sophie xxx

Materials & Fit

Notions: 3.5 mm [US 4] (40-, 80 and 100-cm [16-, 32- and 40-in] cord) and 4.5
mm [US 7] (40-, 60-, 80-, and 100-cm [16-, 32- and/or 40-in] cord) circular
needles. You may also find some 3.5 mm [US 4] and 4.5 mm [US 7] double-
pointed knitting needles useful for the sleeves. If your tension tends to be tighter
when working colourwork, you may also find some 5 mm [US 8] (40-, 60-, 80-,
and 100-cm [16-, 32- and/or 40-in] cord) circular needles useful for the yoke. You
will also need a few stitch markers, a darning needle, and some spare
needles/scrap yarn/stitch holders where the stitches of the sleeves will rest. I
would also recommend having some clip-on markers at hand.

Yarn: Approximately 7 (7-8) 8 (8) 9, (9-10) 10 (10) 10-11 (11) 12 skeins in your
main colour and approximately 1 (1) 1 (1) 1, (1) 1 (1) 1-2 (1-2) 2 skeins in your
contrast colour of Lopi Léttlopi (100% Icelandic wool; 50 g = 100 m [109 yrds]).
For the sample garment, I used the shades White (#0051) for my main colour and
Milky Way (#1702) for my contrast colour.

If you want to substitute these yarns for alternatives, this works out to be
approximately 700 (700-800) 800 (800) 900, (900-1,000) 1,000 (1,000) 1,000-
1,110 (1,100) 1,200 m [763 (763-872) 872 (872) 981, (981-1,090) 1,090 (1,090)
1,090-1,199 (1,1,99) 1,308 yrds] in your main colour and approximately 100

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(100) 100 (100) 100, (100) 100 (100) 100-200 (100-200) 200 m [109 (109) 109
(109) 109, (109) 109 (109) 109-218 (109-218) 218 yrds] in your contrast colour.

Please note that this pattern has not been tested and so the numbers given here
are approximations based on the number of stitches in the pattern and the sample
garment. The fit of the sweater is relatively cropped, so if you know you prefer
longer garments, add an extra skein or two on to the quantities given here. If in
doubt, I highly recommend ordering more yarn than is recommended here to avoid
issues with dye lots and a scary game of yarn chicken.

Tension: 20 sts x 24 rounds in stocking stitch on 4.5 mm [US 7] needles = 10 x 10

cm [4 x 4 in]. Make sure to wash and block your swatch for the most accurate
results. Please note, though, that I have unusually tight row gauge. You may wish
to go up or down a needle size, working in 0.25/0.5 mm [US 0.5] increments as
needed to meet gauge.

Sizing and ease: The Haze Sweater has a recommended positive ease of between
5-10 cm [2-4 in] for Sizes A-H, and 5-15 cm [2-6 in] for Sizes I-K. If you would
prefer more or less ease, however, feel free to change size to achieve your desired
fit. Use the schematic below to find your size based on your chest measurement.

Size: A (B) C (D) E, (F) G (H) I (J) K

Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95) 95-100, (100-105) 105-
110 (110-115) 115-125 (125-135) 135-145
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5) 37.5-
39.25, (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25) 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25)
53.25-57

Actual circumference of garment (cm): 85 (90) 95 (100) 105, (110) 115 (120)
130 (140) 150
Actual circumference of garment (in): 33.5 (35.5) 37.5 (39.5) 41.5, (43.25) 45.25
(47.25) 51.25 (55.25) 59

Actual yoke depth (cm): (20.5) 21 (21.5) 23, (25) 25 (26.5) 28.5 (31) 33
Actual yoke depth (in): 7.75 (8) 8.25 (8.5) 9, (9.75) 9.75 (10.5) 11.25 (12.25) 13

Sleeve circumference at upper bicep (cm): 29 (32) 32 (33) 34, (36) 35.5 (36.5)
39.5 (46) 47
Sleeve circumference at upper bicep (in): 11.5 (12.5) 12.5 (13) 13.25, (14.25) 14

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(14.25) 15.5 (18) 18.5

Recommended sleeve length (cm): 45, with options to modify included in the
pattern
Recommended sleeve length (in): 17.75, with options to modify included in the
pattern

Recommended length from bottom of collar to hem (cm): 47 (49) 50 (51) 53, (55)
57 (59) 60 (61) 63 cm
Recommended length from bottom of collar to hem (in): 18.5 (19.25) 19.5 (20)
20.75, (21.5) 22.5 (23.25) 23.5 (24) 24.75

Please note that all measurements given in inches are rounded to the nearest
quarter inch.

Techniques

Double-folded collar: This is a technique that is often used in sweaters and for the
brims of hats. Essentially, you work the rib to twice your desired length with a
round of purl stitches halfway through. You then fold your knitting over on itself
using the round of purl stitches as guide, so that the cast-on edge sits inside your
circular needle. When you go to work the first stitch of the round, you need to
follow the column of stitches back down to the cast-on, pick up the corresponding
stitch along the cast-on edge, and work them together. It is a bit fiddly, but the
results are so worth it. This video offers a good explanation, though personally I
find it easier to put the picked-up stitch on my left-hand needle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL_5UF1e9Jk

Knitting in the round: Knitting in the round is a technique that allows you to work
pieces of knitting in one go without seams. You are knitting a big tube rather than
flat panels. The key point to remember is that the RS of the work is always facing
you (except when working short rows, see below). It’s much less complicated than
it seems but if this is your first time working in the round, you may find this tutorial
helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BNZx2Nt8Ng

Reading a knitting chart: Reading a chart can seem intimidating, but I promise it is
straightforward once you have got your head around it. In this case, you always
read the chart from right to left and from bottom to top. Each white square
represents a stitch worked in your main colour, the light blue stitches represent

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stitches worked in your contrast colour, and the grey squares represent stitches
that you will form further along in the chart. You repeat the pattern in the white
squares across your round/row.

Two-stranded colourwork (also known as Fair Isle knitting): In stranded

colourwork, you alternate between using your main colour and a contrast colour.
You may find it helpful to hold your main colour in your dominant hand (i.e., if you
are an English-style knitter, hold it in your right hand) and to hold your contrast
colour in your non-dominant hand (i.e., again, if you are an English-style knitter,
hold it in your left hand); or to hold both yarns in one hand but position your main
colour closest to your work and your contrast colour further away, with or without
a colourwork ring. If this is your first colourwork project, the best way to learn is to
dive right in and experiment to find the method that feels most comfortable to
you. Just be mindful not to work too tightly, as this is a common issue in
colourwork knitting, and to catch your floats when the float is more than, for me, 4
stitches (but I am a very tight knitter so you may be able to get away with a float
of up-to 6 stitches!). For a more thorough explanation of this, I recommend this
blogpost by Very Pink Knits which offers a range of tutorials on stranded
colourwork: http://verypink.com/2011/01/13/learn-to-knit-fair-isle-baby-or-adult-
cap/. I also recommend watching this video for help on catching floats:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fsbwg4xTlw

German short rows: To work this technique, knit across the row until you are told
to ‘turn’/‘use the next stitch to turn your work’. Turn your work around so that you
are looking at the wrong side. Making sure that your working yarn is in front of
your work, slip the last stitch you knitted from your left-hand needle to your right-
hand needle. Pull the working yarn over the top of your needle tightly, so that you
can see a little inverted ‘V’ rather than a normal, single stitch. Bring your working
yarn all the way around to the front of your work again and continue to purl until
you need to turn your work again. When you reach this point, turn your work so
that the right side is once again facing you and, with the working yarn in front of
the work, once again slip the last stitch you purled from the left-hand needle to
the right. Again, pull the working yarn so that you can see the inverted ‘V’ but, this
time, keep the working yarn behind the work, so that you are ready to knit. It is
normal for the turning stitches to look a little distorted. When you next work these
GSR stitches, simply knit through both the legs of the stitch in a similar way to a
K2tog.

Please note that the ‘V’ stitch is referred to as the ‘GSR stitch’ here.

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I recommend watching this video by Purl Soho, which provides a good
demonstration and explanation of the technique:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3S9cl47PYw

Yarn-over increases: This pattern only uses yarn-over increases. These are very
simple to work and blend in seamlessly with the colourwork. To form a yarn over,
simply bring your working yarn in front of your work and wrap it around your
right-hand needle to form an extra stitch. In the next round, you will need to work
these yarn over stitches through the back loop to prevent holes. This is made clear
both in the chart and the pattern.

Casting on in the middle of a row: You will need to cast on new stitches in the
middle of a row when you separate the body from the sleeves. It’s not particularly
difficult but can be tricky for beginners. You can either use the backward
loop/thumb method, or the knitted method. If you use the knitted method, you will
need to knit/purl into the back of the new stitches on the next row/round. I tend to
prefer the backwards loop/thumb method because it is faster, but the two cast-on
methods yield very similar results in practice. The following tutorial is very helpful
and explains the differences: https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=bTgT7kE1c_k&t=145s

Leaning decreases
K2tog: This is a right-leaning decrease. Knit two stitches together as if they were
one. If you get stuck, this tutorial is good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=PInQ-iOi29M
SSK: This is a left-leaning decrease. Slip the next stitch in your row/round from the
left-hand needle to the right-hand needle knit-wise, repeat for the next stitch,
pass them both back to the left-hand needle and work them together through the
back loop. If you prefer, you can use any other left-leaning decrease, e.g., Sl1, k1,
PSSO or K2tog TBL. Try this SSK tutorial if you get stuck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgaG5J-fuFM

Tubular bind-off: A tubular bind-off is a type of sewn bind-off that gives the
illusion of the rib stitch rolling over on itself towards the WS of your work. This
produces a really neat and professional finish without a harsh line at the end.
Alternatively, you can work an elastic bind off – but I recommend going down at
least 1 needle size or the edge will fan out. I really do recommend learning the
tubular bind-off, though, as the finish is so beautiful, and it really isn’t too difficult
once you’ve got your head around it.
https://www.youtube.com/wbatch?v=FNbanlVzbxw

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Stitches
Stocking stitch (worked in the round)
Round 1: Knit all stitches.

1x1 rib (worked in the round)

Round 1: *Knit 1, purl 1*.

Abbreviations
BOR: Beginning of round
CC: Contrast colour
K2tog: Knit 2 together
MC: Main colour
RS: Right side
SSK: Slip, slip, knit
TBL: Through the back loop
WS: Wrong side
WYIB: With yarn in front
WYIF: With yarn in back
YO: Yarn over
*…*: Repeat all instructions from * to * until otherwise stated.

Let’s go!

Collar

Using 4.5 mm [US 7] needles (any cord length is fine), cast on 76 (82) 84 (88) 92,
(96) 98 (102) 110 (108) 114 stitches using the long-tail method.

Slip all stitches onto a 3.5 mm [US 4] circular needle with a 40-cm [16-in] cord
and join your work in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches. Casting on
with a larger needle size will make the double-folded collar easier to work, in my
experience. Place a BOR marker between the first and last stitch. The BOR is at
the centre of the back.

Work 4 cm [1.5 in] in 1x1 rib.

In the next round, purl all stitches.

Work another 4 cm [1.5 in] in 1x1 rib.

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In the next round, you will work each stitch
together with the corresponding stitch of
the cast-on edge to form a double-folded
collar. This can be intimidating and a bit
fiddly if you are new to the technique, but
it gets easier when you get into the flow of
it. You may find it helpful to place a clip-on
stitch marker every few stitches to ensure
that your collar doesn’t become skewed.
Work the collar as follows:

Fold the collar in half along the row of purl

stitches so that the cast-on edge is sitting
inside of your circular needle and the purl
bumps are facing RS out. *Look back
down the column of the next stitch on your
left-hand needle and identify the cast-on
stitch for that column. Put it on the left-
hand needle and knit it together as you
would with a K2tog with the live stitch.*
Repeat this process from * to * until all of
the stitches have been worked with their
corresponding cast-on stitch.

Yoke

Change back to 4.5 mm [US 7] circular

needles with a 40-cm [16-in] cord.

You will now work the yoke. To do this,

you will follow Chart A.

Chart A
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All sizes will work 5 increase rounds whilst working Chart A. The increases are
very simple; just work a YO in the position indicated in Chart A in Rounds 2, 12,
22, 32, and 42, and work these YOs TBL in Rounds 3, 13, 23, 33, and 43. Each
increase round will add 38 (41) 42 (44) 46, (48) 49 (51) 55 (54) 57 stitches to the
yoke. You can break your CC yarn once you have completed the chart.

You will find that you need to change to a longer circular needle as you work. I
would recommend having 60-, 80-, and 100-cm [24-, 32-, and 40-in] circular
needles at the very least for an optimal knitting experience. If you have
interchangeable needles, you may find it most comfortable to join a couple of
different cords together to accommodate your growing number of stitches.

When you have finished Chart A, you will have increased a total of 190 (205) 210
(220) 230, (240) 245 (255) 275 (270) 285 stitches and you will have a total of
266 (287) 294 (308) 322, (336) 343 (357) 385 (378) 399 stitches. Your yoke
should currently measure about 19 cm [7.5 in] from the bottom edge of the colour
to the end of the colourwork if your row gauge matches mine.

At this point, I would strongly recommend spreading your stitches across spare
circular needles, stitch holders, or pieces of scrap yarn, pinning the yoke out, and
spray blocking your work. This will give you a much better impression of the final
sweater and help you to decide how long you need to knit the rest of the yoke.

Sizes J and K will work the following additional rounds, all in MC:

Rounds 1-9: Knit all stitches.

Round 10: *Knit 7, YO*.

Round 11: *Knit 7, knit 1 TBL*.

At the end of these rounds, you will have increased another - (-) - (-) -, (-) - (-) -
(54) 57 stitches and you will have a total of - (-) - (-) -, (-) - (-) - (432) 456
stitches. Your yoke should currently measure about 23 cm [9.5 in] from the bottom
edge of the colour to the end of the colour if your row gauge matches mine.

Short row shaping (all sizes)

You will now work a series of German short rows to improve the overall fit of the

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sweater. These are optional but highly recommended. Begin the short rows as
follows:

SR 1 (RS): Knit 29 (31) 32 (34) 35, (37) 38 (39) 42 (38) 40 turn using the GSR
method.

SR 2 (WS): Purl to the BOR marker and slip it, purl 29 (31) 32 (34) 35, (37) 38
(39) 42 (38) 40, turn using the GSR method.

You will now repeat the following 2 short rows a total of 3 (3) 3 (3) 3, (3) 3 (3) 4
(4) 4 times so that you have worked a total of 8 (8) 8 (8) 8, (8) 8 (8) 8 (10) 10
short rows:

SR 1 (RS): Knit to the previous GSR stitch and knit both legs together, knit 29 (31)
32 (34) 35, (37) 38 (39) 42 (38) 40, turn using the GSR method.

SR 2 (WS): Purl to the previous GSR stitch and purl both legs together, purl 29
(31) 32 (34) 35, (37) 38 (39) 42 (38) 40, turn using the GSR method.

In the final RS short row, Sizes B, G, H, and I will need to increase 1 additional
stitch only so that you end up with an even number. This can be done with your
preferred increase method (except for a knit-front-and-back increase, which will
be too visible) at the BOR. At this point, all sizes should try on the yoke of your
sweater to check the fit.

Continue working the yoke

You will now continue to work in stocking stitch until the yoke of your sweater
measures approximately 20 (20.5) 21 (21.5) 23, (25) 25 (26.5) 28.5 (31) 33 cm
[7.75 (8) 8.25 (8.5) 9, (9.75) 9.75 (10.5) 11.25 (12.25) 13 in] from the bottom of
the collar at the mid-back (i.e., at the BOR). However, feel free to adjust this to
your body as needed. If you prefer a shorter yoke and feel happy with the length
after the short rows, you can proceed to Divide the body and sleeves sooner and
vice versa.

Divide body and sleeves

You will now divide the yoke into the body and sleeve sections, as follows:

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Round 1: Slip BOR marker, knit the next 40 (43) 45 (47) 50, (52) 54 (57) 61 (66)
71 stitches to form the first half of the back. Using the backwards loop/thumb
method, cast on 5 (5) 6 (6) 6, (7) 7 (7) 8 (8) 8 new stitches in extension of the first
half of the back. Slip the next 53 (59) 58 (60) 62, (65) 64 (66) 71 (84) 86 stitches
onto a spare circular needle, stitch holder, or piece of scrap yarn to rest. These will
form the first sleeve. Knit the next 80 (85) 89 (94) 99, (103) 108 (113) 122 (132)
142 stitches to form the front. Using the backwards loop/thumb method, cast on 5
(5) 6 (6) 6, (7) 7 (7) 8 (8) 8 new stitches in extension of the front. Slip the next 53
(59) 58 (60) 62, (65) 64 (66) 71 (84) 86 stitches onto a spare circular needle,
stitch holder, or piece of scrap yarn to rest. These will form the second sleeve. Knit
the next 40 (42) 44 (47) 49, (51) 54 (56) 61 (66) 71 stitches to form the second
half of the back.

You should now have a total of 170 (180) 190 (200) 210, (220) 230 (240) 260
(280) 300 live stitches and 2 sets of 53 (59) 58 (60) 62, (65) 64 (66) 71 (84) 86
resting sleeve stitches.

Body

You will now continue to knit the body in stocking stitch until your sweater
measures approximately 47 (49) 50 (51) 53, (55) 57 (59) 60 (61) 63 cm
[18.5 (19.25) 19.5 (20) 20.75, (21.5) 22.5 (23.25) 23.5 (24) 24.75 in] from the
bottom of the collar in the middle of the back, or about 4 cm [1.5 in] less than your
ideal length. If you make your sweater much longer, you will likely need more yarn.

When you have reached your desired length, change to 3.5 mm [US 4] needles
with either an 80- or 100-cm [32- or 40-in] cord, or whatever feels the most
comfortable to you. If you want to hide the transition from stocking stitch to 1x1
rib, you can either cut your yarn at the end of your last round and re-join it at the
side or you can slip the first stitch of the second round of rib. This is totally
optional, however.

Work 4 cm [1.5 in] in 1x1 rib.

You are now ready to cast off. If you would like to use a regular cast-off, work
another 2 rounds in 1x1 rib and then cast off all stitches. If you would like to use a
tubular cast-off, which I would recommend, work the next 2 rounds as follows:

Round 1: Slip BOR marker, *knit 1, slip 1 purlwise WYIF* to the end of the round.

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Round 2: Slip BOR marker, *slip 1 purlwise WYIB, purl 1* to the end of the round.

Cut your yarn, leaving a tail 3-4 times longer than the circumference of your
sweater. Thread a darning needle with this tail and work a tubular cast-off as
follows:

Remove your BOR marker. You may wish to place a clip-on marker onto the first
stitch of the round, as this will help you achieve a neat finish at the end of the
cast-off. To begin, pass your threaded darning needle behind your left-hand
needle and bring it in-between the first and second stitch on the needle, working
from back to front. Pass your needle through the second stitch on your left-hand
needle, which should be a purl stitch, as if to knit it. Do not let any stitches fall off
your needle. Instead, (*) pass your needle through the first stitch of the round as if
to knit it and let it fall off of your needle. Keeping your darning needle in front of
your work, skip the next stitch on your left-hand needle and instead pass your
darning needle through the second stitch purlwise. Once again keeping your
darning needle in front of your work, pass your needle through first stitch on your
needle as if to purl it and let it fall off of your needle. Bring your darning needle
behind your work and bring it in-between the first and second stitch on the
needle, working from back to front. Just as the beginning of the cast-off, pass the
needle through the second stitch as if to knit it on your left-hand needle.

Repeat this pattern of ‘knit, drop, skip, purl, purl, drop, bring yarn through, knit,
from (*) until all but 2 of the stitches have been worked. You may find it helpful to
think that you are essentially grafting two pieces of knitted fabric together by
working Kitchener’s Stitch, but all of the stitches are on 1 needle instead of 2. In
Kitchener’s stitch proper, all of the knit stitches would be on the needle closest to
you and all of the purl stitches would be on the needle furthest from you.

When you work the final 2 stitches of the round, work them as follows:

Knit into the first stitch with your darning needle as established and let it fall off of
your left-hand needle. Skip the next stitch as established and purl into the first
stitch of the round. Bring your yarn back around and purl into the final stitch of the
round and let it slip off of your needle. Give your working yarn a good pull and
weave in the end through the rib as neatly as possible. This should give you a
really seamless finish.

Sleeves (repeat for both sides)

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You will now resume working your sleeves.

To begin, slip the 53 (59) 58 (60) 62, (65) 64 (66) 71 (84) 86 resting sleeve
stitches back onto a 4.5 mm [US 7] circular needle. I would recommend either
using a 40- or 60-cm [16- or 24-in cord] or double-pointed knitting needles if that
is your preference. You could also use a longer cord and the Magic Loop method.

Starting at the mid-point of the underarm cast-on, you will now pick up and knit 4
(4) 4 (4) 4, (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 stitches, making sure that the final stitch you pick up
comes from the join between the underarm and the body. Knit the next 53 (59) 58
(60) 62, (65) 64 (66) 71 (84) 86 stitches. Starting from the other join between the
body and the underarm stitches, pick up and knit another 3 (3) 4 (4) 4, (4) 4 (4) 5
(5) 5 stitches. Place a new BOR marker between the first and last stitch you
picked up.

Work the next round as follows:

Round 1: Knit 2 (2) 2 (2) 2, (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 stitches, K2tog, knit until there are 4
(4) 5 (5) 5, (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) 6 stitches left in the round, SSK, knit to the BOR marker
(-2 stitches).

This should help to prevent holes on either side of the underarm, but you may
need to go back and reinforce these weaker spots which are prone to holes with
some extra yarn when you finish the sweater off.

You now have a total of 58 (64) 64 (66) 68, (72) 71 (73) 79 (92) 94 stitches.

You will now continue to work in stocking stitch until your sleeve measures 41 cm
[16 in] or your preferred length. At the same time, you will work the following
decrease round every 20.5 (10.25) 10.25 (10.25) 10.25, (6.8) 8.2 (8.2) 5.8 (3.1)
3.1 cm [8 (4) 4 (4) 4, (2.5) 3.25 (3.25) 2.25 (1.25) 1.25 in] so that you have
worked a total of 2 (4) 4 (4) 4, (6) 5 (5) 7 (13) 13 decrease rounds and decreased
a total of 4 (8) 8 (8) 8, (12) 10 (10) 14 (26) 26 stitches:

Decrease round: Slip BOR marker, knit 1, K2tog, knit to 3 stitches before the end
of the round, SSK, knit 1 (-2 stitches).

At the end of the sleeve, you will have a total of 54 (56) 56 (58) 60, (60), 61 (63)
65 (66) 68 stitches.

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If you would like your sleeve to be shorter than the length stated here, simply
divide your preferred length (-4 cm [1.5 in] for the cuff) by the number of decrease
rounds to find your ideal decrease interval. To find your ideal length, measure from
your underarm to your wrist. Equally, if you would like it to be longer, continue
working in stocking stitch until the sleeve is 4 cm [1.5 in] shorter than your ideal
length.

If you prefer the look of a more cinched-in cuff, you can work the following
decrease round:

Optional final decrease round: Slip BOR marker, knit 1, k2tog, *knit 4-6 stitches,
depending on how tight you want the cuff to be, k2tog* until the end of the round.

For reference, I worked another 7 rounds in stocking stitch for my sample garment
and then worked the optional decrease round with a decrease every 5 stitches.

When you are happy with the length, change to your preferred length of 3.5 mm
[US 4] needles and work 4 cm [1.5 in] in 1x1 rib. If you have an odd number of
stitches, you will need to start the first round with a K2tog to decrease 1 stitch.

Cast off all stitches in the same manner as the body.

Finishing

You can now weave in your ends and wet block your work. Again, you may find it
helpful to pin the yoke out to add definition to the colourwork. You may also find
that inserting some shirring elastic through the collar will give the garment some
extra strength and improve the overall fit.

I hope that you have enjoyed knitting this pattern and wish you a very happy end
to the year!

If you require pattern support, please email me at

[email protected]. I will try to reply within 1 working week but
this may not always be possible.

Make sure to tag me on Instagram @the_knit_purl_girl and use the hashtag

#HazeSweater so that I can share your creations!

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LET'S GET IN TOUCH

Please email for pattern support.

#HazeSweater

[email protected]
@the_knit_purl_girl WWW.THE-KNIT-PURL-GIRL.COM