T H E F O O D OF

PARIS
\uthentic Recipes from Parisian Bistros and Restaurants

by Marie-Noel Rio
Photography by Jean-Francois Hamon
Styling by Sophie Jacquesson
Translation by Vincent Vichit-Vadakan

Feauturing recipes from the following restaurants:

ALMLeBistrot Paris Main d'Or

Chez Casimir Rotisserie du Beaujolais
Chez Catherine Saint-Antoine
Marty he Train Bleu
Mollard Le Troquet
Les Olivades Le Zephyr

PERIPLUS
 Contents
PART ONE: FOOD IN PARIS
Introduction 4
A Job for Connoisseurs 7
Paris and the Provinces 11
Seasonal Cuisine 12
The Belly of Paris 16
Bread, Cheese, and Wine 20

PART TWO: COOKING IN PARIS

The Parisian Pantry 28
French Ingredients 30

PART THREE: THE RECIPES

Basic Recipes 40
Appetizers 44
Fish and Seafood 68
Meat and Poultry 96
Desserts 122

Acknowledgments 142
Index 144
 Part One: Food in Paris
A slice of culinary history

T he identity of France—the European nation

with the longest history of tenacious cen-
tralized government—and the identity of Paris,
In the 17th century, the heart of France was
neither Paris nor Versailles, but the body of Louis
XIV, the Sun King. When his power was at its Page 2:
its capital, have b e e n closely intertwined for zenith, the King's meals—like the rest of his The Champs-
centuries. Since the 13th century, when Philippe- private life—were lavish affairs attended by Elysees is one
of the most
Auguste built the fortifications around the city the notables of the day. Cooking took a decisive fashionable
and set up his royal palace, turn. La Quintinie, who streets in Paris
Paris has been the stage on benefited from being in and is lined with
numerous cafes
which French social mores the King's favor, made and restaurants.
have always been defined. orchards and vegetable-
And none more so t h a n growing fashionable; the Opposite:
Opposite St.
the tradition of food, which use of spices was aban- Lazare train
has played a major role in doned, and the star chefs station, the
French society since the of the day stigmatized "the Brasserie Mollard
is an Art
Middle Ages. old-fashioned and disgust-
Nouveau
In Medieval times the ing m a n n e r of preparing masterpiece. In
subtleties of fine dining things" as being "gothic" the foreground,
cuisine. Food became an Scallops with
were only enjoyed by the
Citrus Vinaigrette
ruling classes. The poor contented themselves affair of state, in fact to such an extent that Vatel, (see recipe on
day in day out with a diet of black bread and gruel. who was responsible for the King's entertainment page 64).
The kitchens of the Court served white bread with and his table during a visit to the Prince de Conde,
Left:
tender meat of poultry and game, spices, and chose suicide when his delivery of fish failed to
An intimate
exotic fruits, washed down with generous amounts materialize on time. Of course, such considera- aristocratic
of claret or other headier wines. Dairy products, tions only concerned nobility. Commoners for supper in the
their part were starved as never before. 18th century.
most red meat, and vegetables were left to
the commoners, along with cheap wines, cider, In the 18th century, the Regent took u p
and beer. quarters in Paris, far from the outdated etiquette

INTRODUCTION 5
 Gourmands, formed a jury of tasters and invented
the food review. A little later, Jean-Anthelme
Brillat-Savarin's Physiology of Taste raised a
veritable temple to the art of gastronomy. Both
works placed culinary art and all that goes with it
(wines, the order of serving dishes, table settings,
conversations, table etiquette) at the center
of French culture, and made Paris the arbiter of
A typical scene taste, in both senses of the word, in flavors and
in a bourgeois esthetics. La Reyniere, in his Ecrits Gastronomiques,
restaurant from described the paradox thus: "Though Paris
days gone by,
with the ceremo- itself produces nothing, for not a grain of wheat
nial carving of a grows there, not a single lamb is born there, not
calfs head, served one cauliflower is harvested there, it is the center
with traditional
sauce ravigote. where everything from every corner of the
globe lands, because it is the place where the
respective qualities of all that man uses as food is
most appreciated, and where such things are best
transformed for our sensual pleasure." Brillat-
Savarin declared: "Animals feed themselves; man
eats; but only the wise man knows how to eat."
Today, cooking interests all people at every
level of society. The poor may not eat like the
rich, but the passion for food crosses the barriers
of social class and everyone, aprt from those who
of Versailles. Pleasure, once rejected by Madame eat only to survive, can develop the knowledge
de Maintenon because of her fear of eternal of food that results in real pleasure.
damnation, came back into fashion. The first Paris today, like Paris in the 19th century, is
restaurants appeared and caused a furor, making unanimously a city of food lovers. Talk about food
antiquated taverns and inns unstylish, too rugged with a Parisian, in the street, at the bar of a cafe,
for civilized tastes. The French Revolution brought or on a bus, and his eyes will light up, his attitude
an end to aristocratic privilege and introduced a will soften, and his warmth will shine through.
relative democratization of manners. Alexandre He could go on forever. He, for one, knows
Grimod de la Reyniere, author of the Almanack des how to eat.

6 PART ONE: IN PARIS

 A Job for Connoisseurs
Preserving traditions and promoting innovation

E ver since the 14th century, French cuisine

has been rigorously codified. Le Viandier (an
a n o n y m o u s work erroneously attributed to
not necessarily the best teachers—or lack of time.
Still, the vast array of culinary works that have
been published have contributed greatly, just as
Taillevent, Head of the Royal Kitchens under much as the actual cooking and eating, to the aura

r ^
Charles VI) and Le Menagier de Paris (compiled of refinement that surrounds French cuisine.
from existing cookery books by an elderly Parisian
bourgeois who aimed to teach his young wife the
virtues of economy as well as cooking) were
hugely successful and served as the benchmark for
F
ESTURGEON CONTREFAIT DE VEAU
works up to the beginning of the 17th century. (Mock Sturgeon made from Veal)
Le Cuisinier Frangais by La Varenne, published For six servings: either the night before or early
in 1651, marked the birth of French haute cuisine. in the morning, take six calves' heads, without
Ever since then, from Antonin Careme to Auguste skinning them. Scald them in warm water, as you
Escoffier, from Curnonsky to Ginette Mathiot, the would a pig, and then cook them in wine; add a
complex history of culinary techniques, fashions, mug of vinegar, salt and boil them until overripe
and tastes has been woven by numerous authors, meat falls from the bones. Then leave the heads
chefs, gourmets, critics, and housewives. Hardly to cool before boning. Then take a large piece of
a day passes it seems without a cookbook being rough canvas, wrap it tightiy round the heads, sew
published, or a chef writing his own. it up like a square pillow, place it between two
All of this literature extends far beyond the planks and set a very heavy weight on top. Leave
daily requirements of most people, often into the it standing like this all night. Cut into slices, re-
realms of fiction. In the past, recipes included few moving the skin, as with venison, season with
if no details concerning quantities and preparation parsley and vinegar. Only two slices per serving.
and cooking times, as can be seen in the recipe for
Mock Sturgeon made from Veal. Today's cook- Le Menagier de Paris, circa 1393
books are not always more practical for the novice,
either due to lack of experience—the best chefs are

A J O B FOR C O N N O I S S E U R S 7
 In Paris, the City of Lights, dining out is a must. tables to his diners at his establishment on the
In the 16th century, the courtiers of Henri III were rue du Louvre, as well as an extensive choice of
already patronizing the Tour d'Argent, and Henri dishes at fixed prices (including the famous broth).
VI was most partial to their h e r o n pate. This It was an outstanding success. In 1782, Antoine
reputed hostelry, established in 1582, has since Beauvilliers, former chef to the Count of Provence
become a restaurant—one of the most famous in (the future Louis XVIII) opened his Grande
the world—and has moved from the ground floor Taverne de Londres on rue de Richelieu, aimed at
up to the sixth. It is a shining example of the con- a refined clientele, following a model that had
tinuity of Parisian traditions. become highly popular in England. The whole of
The term "restaurant," which used to refer to Paris society flocked to it and the establishment did
a fortifying meat broth and, by analogy, the not finally close its doors until 1925. At the time
establishments which served it to their clients, of the Revolution, Paris boasted less t h a n 100
acquired its m o d e r n meaning in 1765 w h e n a restaurants; a few years later there were more Chartier, on the
rue du Faubourg
certain Monsieur Boulanger proposed individual than 500, of which several still exist today. Their Montmartre
arrival proved to be the knockout blow for the is one of the
various guilds that had formed during the Middle few surviving
R E C I P E FOR A « RESTAURANT » examples of the
Ages (for example, caterers lost the privilege of celebrated
O R RESTORATIVE MEAT BROTH being the sole vendors of cooked meat), while bouillons in
chefs of the various aristocrats who had fled into Paris. Opened
The restaurant is made from beef, mutton, veal, exile now switched their talents to altogether in 1896, it has
been declared
capon, young pigeon, partridge, onions, root veg- different customers. Public life experienced a historical
etables and fine herbs. It is steamed, but without unprecedented growth. The two centuries that monument.
using any liquid, in a pot whose lid is sealed with followed more than confirmed Monsieur
pastry. The pot is put in a bain-marie for five to six Boulanger's intuition, and Paris now boasts some
hours, after which this decidedly succulent broth 10,000 establishments (though not all can be
is sieved and the fat removed. Once this operation recommended, alas!). Although chefs, styles,
has been completed, then a loaf ofbread is hollowed and neighborhoods can be built up and then sent
out and is filled with the minced and seasoned meat crashing down by the vagaries of fashion, restau-
from capons and other fine cuts, before being rants remain essential and firmly embedded parts
poached in the bubbling broth. Before serving, it is of Parisian culture and tradition, with the best
garnished with cockscombs, calf sweetbread and houses enjoying remarkable longevity.
other delicacies browned in smoked bacon. Today, the great restaurants are the heirs of
sophisticated and costly aristocratic culinary
traditions (one of the most reputed establishments

A JOB FOR CONNOISSEURS 9

 photocopied or chalked-up on blackboards are
reminders of the old bouillons where bank clerks,
administrative pen-pushers and shop assistants
would have regaled themselves a century ago with
good homely fare at modest prices. Whatever
social castes they cater to, they have their regulars
and nothing is more pleasing to a Parisian's
Le Train Bleu,
vanity than being recognized, greeted by name
the station restau- and treated with respect wherever he may choose
rant at the Gore to eat, regardless his wealth or social status. Prick
de Lyon, was up your ears in a Parisian eatery and you will hear
inaugurated by
the French nothing but praise, criticisms, and opinions
president in concerning the food and drink, for in Paris there
1901. It is the is no pleasure without comment.
most striking
example of the To complete the picture, it is important to add
Belle Epoque style that the Louis XIV complex, which is still
in France. virulent, and the attachment to the "greatness" of
France, nay the certitude of her superiority, do
little to encourage a more open approach on the
part of the French towards other culinary styles.
Cuisine from all over the world can be found in
Paris, with any exotic whim catered to, not to
mention the gradual integration of certain
"foreign" ingredients (such as Parmesan and
Balsamic vinegar), but do they consider it to be
of Paris employs a team of 48 people for 45 cov- "real" cuisine? It is true however that this French
ers). Smart restaurants and trendy bistros evoke ethnocentrism, while doing little to improve a
the establishments of the 18th and 19th centuries nation's command of foreign languages or its
as depicted in art and literature. The brasseries that respect of basic rules of hospitality, serves our
grew and prospered in the 19th century have seen purposes to perfection.
a renewal of interest over the last few years, due Every great culinary tradition, as well as
to their traditional bourgeois cuisine and being a breeding ground of inventiveness and
flamboyant decor. The more earthy bistros with experimentation is first and foremost a keeper of
their plats dujour (daily specials) and their menus traditional tastes and practices.

10 PART ONE: FOOD IN PARK

 Paris and the Provinces
The cuisine of the capital city represents
a convergence of all French provincial culinary talent

O nly two of the fourteen chefs who contributed potatoes au gratin from the Dauphine, choucroute
recipes to this book were born in Paris and from Alsace. It is true that the flavors of the
even they are first-generation Parisians: one has provinces are adapted to suit the Parisian table, and
parents from the regions of Charentes and Brittany in the process gain something spiritual, subtle,
on the Atlantic coast, while the other's parents and elegant, even down to the humblest dish of
originally came from Normandy and the Perig- offal. Cooking in Paris allows the chef artistic
ord. The others together license that would not be
represent nine different granted elsewhere. Parisians
French provinces and meanwhile are absolutely Le RaUye du
their distinct cuisines, plus passionate about the Nord, like
thousands of
one chef from Japan authenticity of regional Paris bistros,
whose cooking shows a traditions and celebrate announces the
distinct enthusiasm for the peasant dishes, handmade day's specials
directly on its
food from the Basque charcuterie, and the windows. Inside,
country. The siren song of desserts their grandmoth- dishes are listed
the capital has long ers served. This is even on blackboards.
attracted the ambitious: more pronounced because
how can you keep them it comes on the heels of
"down on the farm" when they dream of making the oh-so-precious nouvelle cuisine. It also explains
a name for themselves and revealing their talent their refusal to submit to fast-food and other forms
to the world? When chefs come to Paris seeking of culinary globalization—feasting on a heritage
fame or fortune, their bags are packed with local handed down by generations of connoisseurs is
products and local savoir-faire. So even the most one way of keeping the taste buds from being
Parisian of dishes are provincial in origin: fresh dulled. Drinking is another: Parisian wine bars
seafood comes from Brittany and Normandy, escar- are temples to the glory of Burgundy, Touraine or
gots from Burgundy, salade nicoise from Nice, warm Bordeaux and the arrival of beaujolais nouveau
lentil salad and andouillette sausage from Lyon, every autumn is a much awaited event.

PARIS A N D THE PROVINCES 11

 Seasonal Cuisine
Authenticity and precision,
the keys to perfection

C urnonsky, prince of gourmets, declared that:

"Cuisine is when things taste like what they
are." This astonishing paradox is probably the best
fruit, as well as the happy (or unhappy) marriages
between various ingredients. A novice would be
wise to follow the advice of a good recipe, a
definition of French cooking, where the highest friendly cook or a competent grocer: nothing
art consists of doing away with delights honest craftsmen or
the most erudite techniques to enlightened people more than
Right:
serve a dish that blends textures, sharing their experience and
Harvesting leeks,
illustration taken tastes, and cooking methods to knowledge with anyone who is
from Tacuinum produce something that appears truly eager to learn. In general,
sanitatis, a as nature intended. specialist grocers, experts in
treatise from the
15th century. Good cuisine starts at the what they sell, are preferable to
Leeks, like most market, where every product has supermarkets where you have
vegetables in the its high season. Everyone knows to sort the best from the worst,
Middle Ages, only
appeared on
that you cannot find wild and where it is hard to get away
the tables of m u s h r o o m s or game out of from industrial production.
commoners. season, but few people realize Finally, it is better to make
that all meat and seafood also your purchases as near to
Opposite:
The window of have their moments of perfec- mealtime as possible, to avoid
Hediard, the tion, which vary from species to having to stock t h e m in the
world famous species, just like fruit and refrigerator, which is always bad
luxury grocers,
founded in 1854. vegetables. Whether you are seeking higher for fresh ingredients. This m a y seem rather
quality or better prices, there are m a n y complicated, b u t with a successful trip to the
advantages in buying products at the height of market you will already have taken a big step
their season. towards culinary triumph.
It is thus important to be able to evaluate The menus of good Parisian restaurants change
the freshness of a piece of fish, the quality of a at least once a season and have a different market
cut of meat, and the ripeness of a vegetable or dish or menu every day, often composed that very

12 PART ONE: FOOD IN PARIS

 the oven and the flesh will be unpleasantly tough.
Over-boil baby vegetables and they will b e
irremediably ruined, becoming soft and tasteless.
On the other hand, if you do not give the meat
for a stew the hours of cooking it requires in order
to reach the desired tenderness, it will be inedible.
Cooking techniques (grilling, frying, roasting,
braising, steaming, boiling, simmering) are simple
Right:
A restaurant but precise, and require a little organization and
kitchen in Paris in the right equipment (see page 29). Sauces have
the first half of the become considerably lighter. But that does not
20th century.
mean that cream, butter and classical beurre blanc
Opposite: have b e e n banished from the Parisian kitchen,
The cooking where they are still used with moderation to enrich
brigade at the cooking juices and coulis. Variations are infinite,
Brasserie Marty,
in the heat although the basic techniques are in fact few in
of the action. number. The thick sauces made with a flour roux,
once a mainstay of any decent French kitchen,
have all but disappeared.
Now, more than ever before, Parisian cuisine
concentrates on freshness, quality of products,
and precise execution, which is hardly compatible
with industrial agriculture. Today's high-tech-
nology agiculture produces tomatoes all year
r o u n d in a nutritive liquid u n d e r n e o n lights,
morning according to what delights they have perfect in appearance and perfectly insipid in
gleaned from their purveyors' stalls. taste, and provides unbelievably red mid-winter
Once the preparation itself begins in earnest, strawberries that have the taste and consistency
success depends above all on precision in cooking. of papier mache.
Overcook a sea-bream by just a few minutes and If you are in a hurry why not prepare one of
its delicate flesh will turn to mush, whereas doing those many very simple Parisian dishes that are
the same to an oily fish will give it more or less the tasty and quick to make? Not only will you
appearance and consistency of an old shoe. increase your dining pleasure but you'll do no
Forget to let a duck rest after removing it from harm to your health either.

14 PART ONE: FOOD IN PARIS

 The Belly of Paris
Eight centuries of fresh produce
in the heart of the capital

A ll Paris markets, grocers, and restaurants that

have any pretensions to quality, stock up
between 2 am and noon from Monday to Saturday,
King Louis VI, the Fat (!), established the
public Champeaux Market in 1136, on the site
which the Halles occupied until their demise. The
at the wholesale food market of Rungis. Guild of Halles Strongmen appeared during the
This 232 hectare behemoth (larger than the reign of Saint Louis. Aragon describes them in his
Principality of Monaco), located 5 miles south of own poetic manner in Les Beaux Quartiers: "Slug-
the capital, handles gish yet nimble men with
2,000,000 tons of food their bare, muscular arms,
produce a year and feeds they seemed to be milking
LesHaMes, 18,000,000 people. It is the formidable teats of a
circa 1930. the biggest fresh-produce nurturing night." By the
The bustle in market in the world. The time of the move to
front of one of
Baltard's pavil- goods, which are counted Rungis, these Strongmen
ions at dawn. in crates, trays, pallets, were still expected to be
trolleys, and transport capable of carrying loads
containers are reserved for weighing 400 lb (200 kg) a
those in the food trade. distance of 60 meters!
Rungis Market opened During the 16th cen-
on March 3, 1969. It took just forty-eight hours tury Francois I ordered the reformation of the
and a fleet of trucks to move what had been the Halles and by the time of the French Revolution,
Paris market since the start of the 12th century, it would specialize only in foodstuffs. Napoleon
the famous Halles that had had its praises sung by III was responsible for contracting Victor Baltard
countless writers and poets. It has been said that to design the warehouses which were constructed
the rats which flooded Le ventre de Paris, The Belly between 1854 and 1868 (the last two of which
of Paris, as Emile Zola entitled one of his were only completed in 1936), giving the market
novels, followed the great move, but that is its appearance that was familiar to Parisians until
perhaps just malicious conjecture. it closed in 1969.

16 PART ONE: FOOD IN PARIS

 In this gargantuan whole-
sale market, you could find the
rarest, freshest, finest prod-
ucts, from the best sources.
This tradition of quality dates
back to the Middle Ages with
its litany of "shad from Bor-
deaux, sturgeon from Blaye,
conger eels from La Rochelle,
lampreys from Nantes, cuttle-
fish from Coutances, herring Thefreshfish
market at Rungis
from Fecamp, loach from At three in the
Bar-sur-Seine, salmon from the morning, when
Loire, pimperneaux eels from activity is in
full swing.
the Eure, barbel from Saint-
Florentin, crayfish from Bar,
pike from Chalons, trout from
Andeli, dace from Aise, pate
from Paris, tarts from
Dourlens, flans from Chartres,
beer from Cambrai, tripe from
Saint-Denis, cheese from Brie,
chestnuts from Lombardy,
puree from Arras, mustard
from Dijon, pears from Saint-
Rieule, garlic from Gandeluz, onions from from Touraine, Bayonne ham, jam from Bar-le-
Corbeil, shallots from Etampes." To this list, of Duc, and olives from Nice, among many others.
which several entries still exist, today we could add The market also sells products from around the
butter from Echire, potatoes from the lie de Re, globe, including some of the most exquisite and
prunes from Agen, Salers beef, lamb from beautiful exotic fruits.
Sisteron, Lyon sausage, walnuts from Grenoble, With the disappearance of Les Halles as a
goose foie gras from Alsace, duck foie gras from market, the nightlife of Paris changed. The restau-
the Landes, ceps from the Perigord, Guerande sea rant Le Pied de Cochon is still open twenty-four
salt, duck from Challans, chicken from Loue, goose hours a day, but you no longer see, clustered round

T H E BELLY O F P A R I S 17
 the b a r in the early hours, the night workers bought their businesses. There are some stalls
bolstering themselves with an umpteenth, dirt- here and there selling produce of truly mediocre
cheap coffee or a snack washed down with a glass quality, but fortunately most of the tradespeople
of C6tes-du-Rhone, while the merrymakers on the are excellent purveyors, proud of their trade and
first-floor pay dearly for their peasant fare of pork their knowledge, jealously maintaining a secular
trotters and frites or French onion soup. All that tradition of freshness and quality. That is where
transits today through this now renovated quarter the Parisian will find that night's delivery of fresh
are tourists, both foreign and local, seeking the fish, perfect meat and charcuterie, fruit and
spirit of Les Halles, but without the tumult, smells, vegetables from open fields, cream that is truly the
Right: lights, bustle, and moun- creme de la crime, mature
The meat halls at tains of produce that char- cheese and, often, goods
Rungis. Some
acterized the old Halles. imported directly from
days, as much as
1500 tons of Despite turning the page their own countries by the
animal carcasses on such a long history, Portuguese, Spanish and
pass through there is some consolation Italians who have long
its doors. The
workers toil in noting that Paris still been an integral part of the
through the night overflows with memories life of the capital.
in temperatures and signs of the past on Finally, all of the
barely above
freezing.
virtually every street. The Paris neighborhoods boast
existing markets scattered honest and competent
Opposite: all over the capital are just m e r c h a n t s whose shops
Today, a few
one example of this, are never empty, whether
steps from the site
of the old Holies whether they be covered, they offer fresh produce
stands the like the Secretan, Saint- like the market, or goods
Pompidou Center. Quentin or Saint-Honore like bread, confectionery,
markets, the busy shopping neighborhoods on the cakes, cured meats or freshly prepared meals.
rue des Martyrs, rue Daguerre or rue Mouffetard, Les Halles may have gone and the slaughter-
or the roaming markets, whose stalls fill the streets houses closed (both the horsemeat slaughter-
2 or 3 days a week, like the rue de Convention, houses of Vaugirard and the enormous abattoirs
avenue de Saxe, avenue de Neuilly, or boulevard of La Villette) but Paris is still a world capital of fine
Barbes. Unfortunately some markets, like the one cuisine. That people still wish to learn about it,
in the rue de Buci, have kept their traditional cook it or taste it, as well as being demanding both
appearance (open stalls and barrows) but sell the at the market and in restaurants, is the surest sign
industrial produce of the supermarkets that have that this status will remain for years to come.

18 P A R T O N E : F O O D IN P A R I S
 Bread, Cheese, and Wine
The holy trinity of French gastronomy

O nce the basis of the French diet, bread—or

rather breads of innumerable description-
is now a mere accompaniment to food. But what
Besides the flute (a thinner and shorter loaf)
and the baguette, other popular breads include the
boule de campagne au levain or sourdough loaf; the
an accompaniment it is! Only shops where bread fougasse provengale, a dense, tressed bread made
is kneaded and baked on the plain or with olives; organic
premises may be called boulan- whole wheat breads; rye bread Opposite:
The richness of
geries, or bakeries. Parisian with or without raisins; walnut
French cheese-
bakers who had at one point or hazelnut breads often made making is rooted
succumbed to the siren song of from a blend of rye and wheat, in geographical
cheap, quick, industrial products, diversity and
and many other baked special-
Paris restaurants
have now largely gone back to ties. The art of choosing which proudly showcase
quality ingredients and tradi- type of bread to offer depends them all.
tional techniques, including on the food served: toasted coun-
Left:
sourdough, long kneading times, try loaves with foie gras; rye with From the early
and baking in wood ovens. oysters; walnut, hazelnut or hours of the
Good bread is dense, rather raisin bread with a cheese plat- morning, a good
Parisian bakery
heavy, and has an unmistakable ter. But simplest of pleasures in wiU offer a
smell of flour with just a zest of Paris is the baguette, hot from the profusion of
acidity. After years of medioc- oven, the crust crisp and the cakes, pastries
and treads that
rity, the baguette, a veritable sym- white inside soft and melting,
were freshly
bol of France along with camembert and the beret, eaten plain or spread with fresh butter. baked during
and probably the most famous form ofbread in the Cheese is another example of extraordinary the night.
world, has once again become the object of jeal- French savoir-faire. Curnonsky, between the world
ously guarded attentions. Whatever the secrets of wars, catalogued 483 types of French cheese.
its production, a good baguette must have a crisp, By the 1960s, there were only 289. Today, with
golden crust, a dense crumb with irregular air those that have resisted industrial normalization
holes that is creamy white, almost ivory in color. (some 200 cow's, ewe's or goat's milk cheeses),

BREAD, CHEESE, A N D WINE 21

 ripe. It is not a job for the
faint-hearted. Some fragile
cheeses have a delicate matur-
ing process, followed by a few
fleeting days of perfection and
then rapid deterioration.
Without any preservatives, a
fresh set cheese can quickly
turn sour. A scrupulous shop-
keeper will discard any
A cheese shop product that is past its prime.
worthy of the
name uM offer His reputation, the foundation
a large range of continued prosperity, will
ofperfectly gain from what he might lose
ripe cheeses.
in his short-term profits.
The most famous cow's
milk cheeses are the soft
cheeses with a mild rind like
the coulommiers from the
Ile-de-France region outside
Paris, brie from Meaux or
camembert from Normandy.
There are cured soft cheeses,
often in brine, like Pont
l'eveque and Livarot from Nor-
France is still the unchallenged leader in the field. mandy or Maroilles, that was documented in the
We will not discuss pasteurized cheeses here, 12th century and the heart-shaped Rollot that
those mass-produced dairy products sold in refrig- Louis XIV loved (both from northern France).
erator cases (the surest way of destroying any There are pressed, uncooked cheeses like Reblo-
semblance of taste), but of farmhouse cheeses chon from the Alps, Saint-nectaire (best in sum-
that generations of craftsmen have made sublime. mer and autumn) and Cantal, both from central
In Paris they are sold by merchants who have a France and described in Diderot's encyclopedia.
real love of their profession, who age them in their And finally there are the pressed cooked varieties,
cellars and sell them only in season and only when including the famous Alpine Gruyere, and Comte

22 P A R T O N E : F O O D IN P A R I S
and Beaufort, from the region of Franche-Comte. Wine, the crown jewel of French pride,
The Vacherin-mont-d'or from the Jura is eaten demands, if not knowledge and experience, then
with a spoon and is available in the winter months at least a degree of respect. So Balzac was seen to
only. Epoisses is aged with marc, spirits of stop a diner who was too quick to down a fine
Burgundy wine. Pungent Munster from Alsace is bottle: "This is a wine, my friend, to be caressed
given more character with cumin seeds. Saint- with the eyes." "And then?" "Then you breathe it
marcellin from the Dauphine melts onto its straw in." "And then?" "You put it back on the table,
mat, and was much to the taste of Louis XI. without touching it, piously." "And then?" "Then
Don't overlook the delicacy of fromage frais, you talk about it."
fresh cheese, curdled and drained, that is served The quality of a wine depends on its cru (the
as a dessert either plain, with salt and pepper, vineyard that produced it), its millesime (vintage,
sweetened with sugar or with fruit sauces or com- or year of production) and its appellation (AOC:
potes. Pick a fromage frais that is not industrial, appellation d'origine controlee, reserved for fine
made from whole milk and has not had air wines from a particular clearly defined area;
whipped into it. Faisselle from the Lyon region, VDQS, vin delimits de qualite superieure, used for
topped with fresh cream, are a little taste of region wines often of excellent quality; and vin de
heaven. pays, the most modest appellation, but which
Blue cheeses, cultivated with penicillium, are includes many honest products that have been
made from cow's milk, like the Fourme d'Ambert, elaborated with care). "Table wines" offer no guar-
or the blues from Auvergne, Causses or Gex, or antees whatsoever. They are often haphazard
from ewe's milk, like the most famous blue, the blends of the least appealing products the vines
Roquefort, that Casanova claimed to be an aphro- have to offer.
disiac in his memoirs. When it comes to tasting a wine, its age is a
Ewe's milk cheese are generally found in the determining factor. Each wine has its moment of
Beam like Esbareich, in Basque country like Ardi- excellence, that must be waited for, but must not
gasna or in Corsica like Venaco. In Provence, there be exceeded. Too young, and a wine will not have
is a fresh curdled cheese, the Brousse de Rove, a had the time to develop its qualities. Too old, and
cousin of Corsican Broccio. these qualities will have disappeared. Other fac-
Goat's cheeses form a large family: Cabecou tors include opening the bottle, allowing it to
from Gascony, Crottin de Chavignol, Loire Val- breathe, its serving temperature, and perhaps
ley Sainte-maure, Valengay, Pouligny-saint-pierre, decanting. If you have any doubt, ask a specialist.
Brique de Forez, Pelardon from the Cevennes, France has six main wine-growing regions.
Banon from Provence, Picodon de Dieulefit Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Cotes-
washed in white wines are but a few examples. du-Rhone, and the Loire Valley, to which are added

BREAD, C H E E S E , AND W I N E 23
 neighboring regions, doubtless less prestigious Listrac, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-
but often excellent and—thanks to their prices— Estephe), plus Saint-Emilion, Pomerol and
extremely popular. Lalande-de-pomerol, excellent Fronsacs, Graves,
Alsace produces mostly spicy white wines, from and remarkable reds and whites from Pessac-Leog-
simple light wines (Sylvaner, Pinot blanc) to nan. Reputed sweet wines include Sauternes and
fruitier wines (Pinot gris, Gewurztraminer, Barsacs, and Loupiacs that are a little gentler on
muscat), by way of the Riesling, a fine grape the pocketbook. And then there are the Cotes (de
variety with a well-deserved reputation. The Bordeaux, de Francs, de Castillon, de Blaye, and
vendanges tardives or late harvest wines, made especially de Bourg) and the plain whites from
from grapes left on the vine until the first frost, are Entre-DDeux-Mers. Beware of generic appella-
magnificent, rich in natural sugars and fragrance tions like Bordeaux, Bordeaux blanc sec or
(not to mention high in price, Bordeaux Superieur.
and rightly so). Let's not forget We should mention in pass-
the Cremant, a sparkling wine ing the noteworthy, hearty wines
1 wine merchant made in the same way cham- of the neighboring South West
displays his pagne is, and Pinot Noir, the only region, among which Bergerac,
bottles lying on
red grown in the region. Gaillac (one of the oldest wines
their sides,
organized Bordeaux country, which has in France), Cahors (another wine
by region exported its wines to northern whose roots go back to antiquity),
and by era. Europe since the 13th century, and the Cotes of the region (de
benefits from an incomparable Duras, de Buzet, du Marmandais,
reputation. It should be noted and du Frontonnais). Moving
that only a handful of the further south towards the
chateaux mentioned on the labels Pyrenees, there are remarkable
actually refer to an aristocratic red Madirans, white Pacherencs,
home, or even a particular vine- marvelous white jurangons both
yard. The word is merely a term dry and sweet, Tursan from the
used for commercial purposes. Along side the cms Landes and Irouleguy from Basque Country.
classes representing some of the most sought after Burgundy, dear to Colette who was an
and costliest wines in the world, Bordeaux offers experienced diner and gourmande, is a symbol
more affordable cms bourgeois, and cms artisans of elegance. The whites from Chablis, the most
that are modest but often of fine quality. copied in the world, are incomparable after years
The main wines of Bordeaux are the presti- of aging. The legendary wines of the C6tes-de-
gious red medocs (Medoc, Haut-medoc, Moulis, Nuits, Gevrey-chambertin, Vosne-Romanee, Clos

24 P A R T O N E : F O O D IN PARIS
de Vougeot, Chambolle-
Musigny, Nuits-Saint Georges
do not overshadow those of the
C6t6 de Beaune, the hefty
Cortons and Pommards and
the tender wines of Savigny,
Volnay and Beaune. In the
14th century, the red wines of
Beaune were reserved for the
aristocracy, the king, and the In dU French
pope! As for the Tache, vineyards, the
haritest takes
Montrachet and Romane-Conti place in the
wines, they have become fall. Here,
veritable myths, the symbol of grapes are-hand
picked in the
the finest and the most accom- traditional way.
plished products that the art
of wine making can offer.
Down from the slopes,
we continue our tour. Southern
Burgundy produces attractive
wines, obviously less presti-
gious but also more affordable.
Excellent whites from the
Cote Chalonnaise like Rully,
Mercurey, Givry, and Mon-
tagny, plus those of the Maconnais: Macon, Further south, the wines from the Savoy and
Saint-Veran, the elegant Pouilly-Fuisse, Pouilly- Bugey are not well known, but some, like the
Loche, and Pouilly-Vinzelles. seyssel, are nervous and distinctive.
It would be ungracious to forget, to the east of And above all, between Burgundy and C6tes-
Burgundy, the wines from the Jura: Arbois, Cotes- du-Rhone, the beloved Beaujolais, red or white,
du-Jura, and Chateau-Chalon, king of the viris and its ten cms: Saint-Amour, Julienas, Moulin-a-
jaunes or heady yellow wines, and the ever sur- vent, Chenas, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgbn,
prising Vindepaille, a rare sweet wine known ds Regnie, C6te de Brouilly, and Brouilly. Hie names
the wine for women who have just given birth. ring out like a lively dance at a Bastille Day ball.

BREAD, CHEESE, AND WINE 25

 maintaining consistent taste. Only some of the
production is vintage, and then only in the best
years. The categories of brut, sec or demi-sec (extra
dry to semi-sweet) depend on the amount of sugar
compound added to ferment the wine and reduce
acidity. Rose Champagne is obtained by adding a
few drops of red wine to a white base, or by
fermenting still rose wine. Many prestigious
The wine cellars champagne houses have been sold to large indus-
of many trial conglomerates, but some independent houses,
producers are which stake their business on quality, have
architectural
wonders, like the managed to resist the powerful groups. The best
Chartreux cellars known and most expensive champagnes are not
in the Jura region, always synonymous with excellence. Trust a
with its medieval
vaulted ceilings,
specialist, and your own taste buds.
pictured here. The C6tes-du-Rhone, from Vienne to Avignon,
is the second French wine-growing region
after Bordeaux. In the vicinity of Vienne excel-
lent wines are produced, including the very old
red C6te-R6tie and the whites Condrieu and
Chateau-Grillet. The region of Valence provides
red and white Saint-Joseph and Cornas, which
can be of very high quality, the venerable
hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, and white Saint-
Peray. Between Montelimar and Avignon, next
Champagne is probably the most famous to the heterogeneous productions from C6tes-du-
wine-growing region in the world. Claims that Rhone, C6tes-du-Rhone-villages, and du-Ventoux,
Dom Perignon, wine keeper at the Hautvilliers Costieres-de-Nimes or Coteaux-du-Tricastin, are
Abbey in the 18th century, invented the sparkling found the justly renowned Chateauneuf-du-Pape,
wine are not entirely accurate, for it existed empir- the lovely but less popular Gigondas, and
ically (it was talked about as early as Henri IV's Vacqueyras, delicious lirac in reds, whites, and
time), but he developed the precise techniques roses, and tavel, a charming rose. This too is where
that give the wine its unique characteristics. Muscat-de-Beaumes-de-Venise and Rasteau
Champagne making is an art of blending and Rancio are produced, two sheer delights.

26 PART ONE: D IN P A R I S
 The vineyards of the Languedoc-Roussillon with legendary brilliance. The Saumurois and
supply 40 percent of wine drunk in France. Anjou regions can be proud of the SaUmur-
Quality, generally mediocre a century ago, has Champigny, exquisite whites from Savennieres,
notably improved, especially among the reds. and the noble liquorewc, before making way for
In the South East, towards the Italian border, the Muscadet from the Pays Nantais of which the
Provence offers along with a range Of spicy whites more highly prized is the Sevre-et-Maine.
and roses or delicious reds like Bandol, a highly Wine is not supposed to quench thirst but to
irregular production that encompasses the best exalt a dish, making their marriage ah unforget-
and the worst of wines. But with a little patience table experience. Without wine, the best of meals
and curiosity, one can always find a few good will be lopsided. That is why each recipe here also
bottles wherever one looks. includes a suggestion Of a region or a cm that the
Finally, Corsica chefs feel will make
meets expectations the best accompani-
with its reds that are ment. But there is no
high in tannin, its such thing as just one The owner of this
aromatic whites and perfect match, since wine shop spends
as rhuch energy
fruity roses. taste, however inform- preserving the
The Loire, from ed and cultivated, is a traditional
the Massif Central to subjective, personal, appearance of
his business as
the Atlantic, is fertile intimate experience he does defending
ground for vineyards. and for every recom- small, quality
Pouilly-sur-Loire, mendation, there are wine producers.
Po u i l l y - F u m e , countless exceptions.
Sancerre (that good Your own experi-
King Henri IV consid- ments will be your
ered to be the finest wine in the kingdom), Mene- best guide. As a rule of thumb, there is little chance
tou-Salon (enjoyed by Jacques Cceur in the 15th of going wrong by serving a dish and a wine from
century) Quincy, and Reuilly, available in whites, the same geographic region. An area's cuisine
but also reds and roses. Along with the three develops around its vineyards, kitchens, and wine
colors of mass-produced Touraine, reds from cellars and it tries to strike a balance between the
Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, subtlety and the heartiness of a dish and the
whites from Montlouis arid Vouvray (the latter strength of a wine. Of all the virtues of the French,
had its praises sung by Rabelais and Balzac), still, balance is the most desirable and the key to the art
sparkling or sweet, shine over the Touraine region of gastronomy.

BREAD, CHEESE, AND WINE 27

 Part Two: Cooking in Paris
Between high technology and plain old ingenuity

Y ou probably have a refrigerator at your

disposal a stove with four burners, and an oven
with a broiler or grill. But even with just a small
electric grater with different
blades including a mandolin
for slicing (a manual grater is just as
fridge and a couple of electric rings, you will be able good though).
to cook most of the recipes here. Probably the most famous French kitchen
Remember, you can cook well with nothing utensils found throughout the world are the
more than a good paring knife, a couple of cast iron and enamel cooking pots. A good cast
spoons or spatulas, a colander, a pot or two iron, ovenproof pot w i t h a lid is essential for
Opposite:
and a skillet or frying pan. If we may be preparing m a n y Parisian dishes, as are cast iron
Some common
allowed to paraphrase, a good workman (non-stick) skillets. A large, shallow sauteuse is utensils found
rj has good tools, but a good workman also useful but not essential. You will need a variety of in any Parisian
kitchen.
• : : : : fl knows how to improvize and adapt to b a k i n g dishes and r a m e k i n s for souffles and
any situation. gratins. This page:
French kitchen knives are highly regarded all For baking desserts, invest in some cake pans, (Clockwise from
over the world a n d can b e p u r c h a s e d from spring form pans, pastry circles, and oven mitts! left): A garlic
press, food mill,
specialty stores and online stores. As well as a few Other basic kitchen utensils include a set of and cast iron pot.
small sharp paring knives, you will need one large m e a s u r i n g cups and weighing scales, a
one for chopping. And don't forget a good knife pastry b r u s h , p o i n t e d sieve (also called
sharpener and a solid cutting board. Wooden cut- a chinois or china cup), a large strainer or
ting boards tend to absorb fish flavors so either colander, salad spinner, several mixing
cover with clingfilm or use a plastic cutting board. bowls, baking paper, foil, paper towels
Kitchen shears, a vegetable peeler, zester, garlic (kitchen roll), and a large needle and
press, and cherry or olive pitter (stoner) are also kitchen twine. Before starting a recipe,
essential. In terms of high technology equipment, check the equipment it requires. And if
you need loook no further than an electric beater you do not h a v e e v e r y t h i n g stated,
(or whisk), a food mill, a n d a food processor, decide how you are going to improvize
blender or liquidizer, an electric grinder, and an before starting!

PARISIAN PANTRY 29
 French Ingredients
An on-going quest
forfreshness and quality

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES are Brussels sprouts (cooked), red, white, and
green Savoy cabbages, but also broccoli and
APPLES: The favorite fruit of the French. Varieties cauliflower (used raw or cooked).
found in France include clochard, Granny Smith, CELERY: The stalks should have the fibrous outer
reine de reinettes, Canada, Cox, golden, and leaves removed and can be used raw or cooked.
elstar. Use them cooked or raw, choosing CELERY ROOT (celeriac): A dense sphere, with
varieties that keep their shape or cook down, ivory colored flesh, it is used cooked.
depending on the needs of the recipe. CITRUS FRUIT: Lemons (all seasons) are most
APRICOTS (summer): Choose them for flavor, commonly used fresh, they are also sold Artichokes
not size. Use ripe when the flesh is tender, raw preserved in brine; limes (all seasons) are more
or cooked. exotic in origin and very different in taste; the
ARTICHOKES (summer, autumn): Use the large best oranges (winter) are Maltese or navel;
camus de Bretagne or other green globe grapefruit maybe yellow (all seasons) or pink
varieties for the hearts; use poivrades or (winter); mandarin oranges and tangerines
violets from Provence which can practically be (in France, people prefer those from Corsica)
eaten whole, raw or cooked. are simple winter desserts. French cuisine makes
ASPARAGUS (spring, early summer): wild, green great use of citrus fruit. Choose untreated ones,
or white, they have very different flavors and especially if you plan to use the zest. Eggplant
are only used cooked. CUCUMBER: Pick ones that are not too big or they
BELL PEPPERS: Also known as capsicum. At will be full of seeds. Ensure that they are firm
their best in summer, bell peppers come in from end to end. In most varieties, the skin can
green, red or yellow. Served raw or cooked. be eaten but occasionally it is bitter and should
BERRIES (late spring, summer): Blackberries, be peeled. Used raw and more rarely cooked.
blueberries, cherries, currants (red or black), DRIED BEANS or PULSES: Green lentils from
raspberries, and strawberries are marvelous in Le Puy, white haricot beans including the
season, insipid in the winter. ones from Soissons, split peas and garbanzo
CABBAGE (late spring, summer): Included here beans (chick peas) are all nourishing and Savoy cabbage

FRENCH INGREDIENTS 31
 filling and are mostly cooked in the winter. as well as oyster mushrooms, pieds-de-mouton
DRIED FRUIT: Apricots and figs from Turkey, (originally from Japan, they can be used as a
dates, sultanas, and dark or golden currants substitute for ceps), or wild and full-flavored
are a veritable bounty in the winter months. like the trompettes-de-la-mort, ceps, girolles (sum-
The French also consider nuts to be dried fruits mer and autumn), or morels (spring). The nee
and use walnuts, hazelnuts, pine nuts, and plus ultra is of course the truffle, white or black.
pistachios widely. Very costly, but incomparable, it can be used
Fennel EGGPLANT (summer): Also known as aubergine. raw or cooked.
Pick eggplants that are not too large, firm, with PEARS: The juiciest, most flavorful varieties are
smooth, shiny skins and bright green stems. Williams, beurre-Haxdy or doyenne-du-comice.
Use cooked. Used raw or cooked.
FAVA BEANS (spring, summer): Also known as POTATOES: The most popular vegetable in
broad beans. Removing their thick pods and France. Varieties available include bintje, BF15,
tough skins requires patience (see page 46). ratte, roseval and charlotte. Choose waxy ones
Allow 1 lb (500 g) per person, unshelled. that hold their shape or floury ones that mash
Usually cooked, occasionally eaten raw. easily when cooked depending on the require-
Pineapple FENNEL (autumn, winter): Select round, dense, ments of the recipe.
white bulbs with bright green stems. Discard the PUMPKIN (spring, summer): One of a number of
outer layers. Use raw or cooked. orange fleshed squash (marrow) with subtly
LEEK: choose the thin-stalked variety known as different textures and tastes. Used cooked.
"baguette." Usually only the white is eaten; eaten SPINACH: The leaves, often caked with soil, must
cooked. be carefully washed and trimmed (see page
LETTUCE AND SALAD GREENS: Included in 56). When used cooked, count 1 lb (500 g) per
m a n y a meal. Dandelion, arugula (rocket), person unprepared spinach. Young leaves are
mesclun (a mixture of greens), romaine, lolla, also eaten raw.
Lentils
nasturtiums, and zucchini (courgette) flowers SWISS CHARD: Choose ones that are small and
in summer, curly endive, batavia, escarole, tender, with clear white stems and green leaves.
lamb's lettuce, chicory, watercress, Belgian Large ones are fibrous and dry. Eat cooked.
endive ,and raddicchio in the cold season, and TOMATOES (summer): Avoid industrially pro-
rougette or feuille de chene all year long. The art duced, greenhouse or canned types, and choose
of salad making involves balancing its ingredi- t h e m in season a n d grown on the vine. In
ents and its dressing. winter, you might consider ones imported from
MUSHROOMS: They come farmed like white warm lands like Tunisia and Morocco. They
mushrooms (the only ones that can be used raw) can be used raw or cooked, generally peeled
Pumpkin

32 PART T W O : C O O K I N G IN PARIS
 and seeded. Drop them into boiling water for 10 thyme, origano, and rosemary). Use them fresh
seconds, then under running cold water. The in season, bought in bunches from the market,
skin will slip off easily. Remove the stem and or grown in a pot or in a corner of the garden.
the tough core, cut in half horizontally. Use The most common ones are basil, chervil,
your thumb to scrape out seeds. ..it's as easy as chives, cilantro (coriander), dill, mint (sweet
that! or pepper), parsley (flat leaf, whenever possi-
TROPICAL FRUIT: Bananas, kiwis, mangoes, ble, curly, when not), tarragon. French cookery « *
papayas, pineapple, star fruit...whenever uses great amounts of herbs. Tomatoes on the vine
possible, choose fruit that was picked ripe in its HORSERADISH: A white-fleshed root vegetable,
country of origin and shipped by air for with a very strong flavor. It is sold in jars, ready
freshness. to use. Mixed with whipped cream, it makes an
VEGETABLES, EARLY, ALSO NEW OR BABY: excellent sauce for smoked fish.
Found in the spring, always small in size, often sold MUSTARD: There are all kinds. The world famous
in bunches with their leaves or stems still Dijon is refined, pale, and strong. From Meaux,
attached, many vegetables are sold "new" includ- also called "a Vancienne" it contains whole seeds.
ing carrots, turnips, onions, peas, green beans, OLIVES: Green, black or violet, buy them with the
snow peas (mange-tout), and potatoes. In pits (stones) in, for more taste. Garlic
French markets,"primeur" vegetables are the ONION: They come in yellow (the most common
very first harvests of the year, whatever the variety), white, and sweet red onion, andgrelot
season. (or pearl) onions. One of the most widely used
ZUCCHINI (spring, summer): Choose zucchini flavorings in French cooking. Careful, they can
(courgettes) that are small, dense and firm. Use make you cry! Peel them under running water.
cooked, or raw, finely sliced in salads. Scallions (also called spring onions), are used
throughout the spring and summer.
HERBS, SPICES, A N D CONDIMENTS SALT: Marsh salt, harvested by hand and packed
Shallots
unprocessed without any chemical additives,
BOUQUET GARNI: A classic mixture of sprigs of is the nee plus ultra. Ground it is called fleur
herbs (parsley, thyme, bay leaves), tied into a de sel, in larger pieces, it is known as rock salt.
bundle. Adds taste to boiled and stewed dishes. Both retain a little moisture. The most famous
GARLIC: At its best when it is young, in the spring is from Guerande in Brittany, with a pronounced
and summer. Out of season, remove the sprout flavor of iodine and seaweed.
in the middle that is hard on the digestion. SHALLOTS: Long (Jersey) types are best. They also
HERBS: Avoid at all costs dried or powdered herbs come in yellow and rosy varieties. Widely used is
(the rare exceptions to this rule are bay leaves, sauces. When spouted, they are called cives in Esplette chilies

FRENCH INGREDIENTS 33
 French, and are used like scallions. 55% and 70% cocoa. If using powdered cocoa,
SPICES: anise seed, celery salt, chili (tiny, very- pick an unsweetened variety.
strong peppers from the West Indies, espelette COURT-BOUILLON, CUBES OR POWDER:
from Basque Country, and Cayenne pepper), Dissolved in water, it is used for poaching
cinnamon (in sticks or ground), cloves (the head fish. It would take a little too long to make it
of which contains all the flavor), coriander seeds, from scratch.
curry powder (the best mixes are Indian brands, FLOUR: wheat flour is the most common. For
Onions available mild, medium or hot, depending on pastries and cakes, sift it before use.
the amount of chili), fennel, ginger (the fresh FOND: made from veal, poultry etc. Concentrated
rhizome is peeled and grated, also available stock used as the basis of many sauces and
powdered or candied), juniper berries, nutmeg gravies. It is fastidious to make from scratch,
(whole, then grated as needed), paprika (pick but is available ready-to-use forms, including
the mild variety from Hungary), pepper (mild concentrate, liquid and dry (use 1 tablespoon
white, strong black, or mixed, it must be freshly concentrate for 10 cl boiling water).
ground as needed, finely or coarsely—the latter FOND: made from veal, poultry etc. Concentrated
is called mignonette; there are also fruity, green stock used as the basis of many sauces and
Olives peppercorns, best bought vacuum-packed, or gravies. It is fastidious to make from scratch, but
fragrant pink peppercorns), quatre-epices (a is available ready-to-use forms, including
blend of ginger, clove, pepper and nutmeg), concentrate, liquid and dry (use 1 tablespoon
saffron (in threads or powdered form), vanilla concentrate to 100 ml boiling water).
beans, powdered or extract (the Bourbon variety GOOSE OR DUCK FAT: excellent cooking fat,
from Reunion, or the rarer, most fragrant kind especially for sauteing potatoes. Reserved fat
from Tahiti). Avoid artificial flavorings and use from a confit will keep several months, but it
powdered spices with caution, which lose their can also be bought in jars and cans.
strength quickly and acquire a taste of sawdust HONEY: The best liquid honey for cooking is
Fleur de sel (sea salt)
or soap. acacia honey from Hungary.
OIL: Have at least three types on hand: peanut
GROCERIES (neutral, for cooking); olive (tasty, for cooking
and salads); and walnut (for salads only). There
BOUILLON CUBES: Dissolved in water, the cubes are also oils of corn, sunflower, hazelnut, and
add flavor to boiled dishes. Homemade stock sesame. Be careful, their flavors vary greatly,
can be used, but it is time-consuming. few can be cooked at high temperatures and
CHOCOLATE AND COCOA: use "couverture" many go rancid quite quickly. Peanut or olive
Phyllo pastry chocolate or dark chocolate, containing between oil forms the basis of mayonnaise, one of the

34 PART TWO: COOKING IN PARIS

 most famous sauces in the world, and a classi- made from either cane or beets. Confectioners'
cally French recipe. In a mixing bowl, stir (icing) sugar (a powder); superfine (caster)
together an egg yolk with 1 teaspoon of strong sugar; or granulated sugar. Brown or demerara
mustard (if liked) or the same amount of oil (if sugars contain varying amounts of molasses.
not). Add oil very gradually, stirring constantly Raw sugar is unrefined.
with a wooden spoon until a smooth emulsion VINEGAR: There are all kinds. Regard fanciful
is reached. The sauce is ready when it is thick product with extreme caution. The most Sea urchins
and stiff. Add salt to taste, and lighten it with dependable are aged red wine vinegar, sherry
lemon juice. This marvelous sauce is fail-proof, (xeres) vinegar, balsamic, cider, white (or crystal)
if all the ingredients are at room temperature. vinegar (used only in cooking). Vinegar is the
If for some reason the sauce separates or cur- soul of vinaigrette, one of the most famous
dles, take another egg yolk, and very slowly sauces in the world, invented in France in the
whisk in the first mixture. 14th century. Dissolve a pinch of salt in one
PASTA: Pick Italian pasta, from a reputable brand, part vinegar, add a few grinds of pepper, then
and made of durum wheat. Cook in large quan- three parts oil and whisk together until emul-
tities of water at a rolling boil, and follow the sified. The secret of success is in the ingredients.
Olive oil with balsamic vinegar (or lemon juice) Whelks
instructions to cook them al dente.
PHYLLO PASTRY OR BRIK: Arab, Turkish or or walnut oil and sherry vinegar, are classics.
Greek in origin, it makes airy, flaky pastry that You can also add a little mustard. With seeds,
cooks quickly and can be used in sweet or it picks up wine vinegar and peanut oil. Try it.
savory dishes Also don't neglect cornichons (small pickles or
RICE: There are 8000 varieties! You can content gherkins) or onions pickled in vinegar, that add
yourself with three types: superfino arborio life to cold cuts and hams.
from the Po Valley for risotto and desserts
(this is the only rice that does not require SEAFOOD A N D SHELLFISH Scallops
washing); Basmati or Surinam for plain boiled
rice; and a Camargue or Madagascar rice, for Parisians love seafood, and thanks to quick trans-
recipes augras (cooked in rich broth) or pilafs. port and refrigeration techniques, they can enjoy
Avoid parboiled or converted rice that is totally them year round. Before, eating shellfish was
lacking in taste. reserved for months with Rs, from September to
SEMOLINA: Made of wheat for couscous and April, when much seafood is still at its best.
desserts, of corn for polenta. Follow the instruc- Shellfish available in Paris include: sea urchins
tions on the package. (eaten raw), periwinkles and whelks (cooked),
SUGAR: Refined white sugar is the most common, scallops (cooked, though very rarely also served Oysters

FRENCH INGREDIENTS 35
 raw), flat belon, deep-shelled creuse or fines de BAR: similar to sea bass, it is one of the finest fish,
claire oysters (usually raw, very occasionally with lean flesh. It is called loup or wolf in the
cooked), small bouchot mussels (cooked) or larger Mediterranean because of its voracious appetite.
plumper varieties that are served raw or stuffed BRILL: a flat fish with dense, slightly fatty flesh,
and cooked on the half shell, palourde, praire or related to the turbot.
clovisse clams (again raw or cooked) and tiny COD: the most popular fish, with lean, flaky flesh.
petoncles or bay scallops. Cod is sold fresh, but salt cod or morue is also
Araignee or rock crab Petit-gris or Burgundy escargots (snails) are widely used, the best being bacalhao, or "green"
land-bound shelled creatures. cod from Portugal.
The main crustaceans, best when during the DORADE: similar to porgy. Lean and tender,
warm season, are all eaten cooked: araignees, the gray variety of this ocean fish is considered
etrilles (spider or rock) crabs, the latter being to be better than the pink.
used for bisques and fish soups, or the more famil- RED MULLET: A small, semi-fatty fish, with dis-
iar, large tourteau crabs (preferably female), bay tinctive tasting iodized flesh. If it is not available,
or soft-shelled shrimp and jumbo prawns, blue- use the bonier, less valued grondin or gurnard.
shelled Brittany lobster, langoustine or Dublin SALMON: Look for a wild salmon fished in
Lobster
Bay prawns (again preferably from Brittany). Scotland or in the Pacific northwest. Failing
The best freshwater ecrevisse or crayfish are the that, pick a young, farmed fish.
red-clawed variety. And finally, in the cephalopoda SARDINE: A small fatty iish, equally delicious
family, there are exquisite molluscs better known raw, marinated or cooked.
as octopus, cuttlefish, and squid. Prefer smaller SOLE: This famous and particularly tasty flat fish
ones, and always serve them cooked. belonging to the Pleuronectiforme order has,
through the long process of evolution, developed
FISH the particularity of having both eyes on the
Langoustine
same side of its head.
There are over 20,000 species of fish. We will TUNA: The flesh of this fatty fish resembles veal.
simply mention a handful that are used in our Albacore tuna is the finest. If it is no available,
recipes because they are the most popular in French use red tuna.
cooking. Pick fish that is firm-fleshed, shiny TURBOT: Large Pleuronectiforme with very white
without any trace of blood, with bright red gills, flesh. Its excellent reputation is well deserved.
shiny, round eyes, and a fresh smell. Avoid pre-cut
fillets, and have them cut for you when you order.
Exercise great care when cooking fish, for failure to
Octopus do so can result in ruining a fine product.

36 PART TWO: COOKING IN PARIS

DAIRY PRODUCTS rabbit at poultry butchers, as tradition still dic-
tates). Chicken eggs are the most common. Pick
BUTTER: Sweet (unsaltect) or salted (also available them as fresh as possible, ideally laid by grain-
semi-salted or demi-sel in France). The best fed, free-range chickens. In these and most French
sweet butter in France comes from Echire, recipes, use eggs that are medium in size (about
Sainte-Mere or Isigny, and the best salted butter 55-60 g) and bring them to room temperature
from Guerande or Noirmoutier. Be careful! about 30 minutes before using. Quail eggs are
Butter burns easily and should be cooked over also found, and are often used in appetizers. Creme fralche
low heat. Mixing it with an equal amount of oil MILK: Choose fresh milk—UHT and other extended
allows it to be cooked at slightly higher shelf life products taste of chalk. Use whole milk
temperatures. It goes without saying that for desserts. It is tastier and more unctuous.
margarine can in no way replace butter, which
French cuisine uses extensively. POULTRY
CREME FRAICHE: The best is unpasteurized, but
pasteurized, more readily available, can also be Whether small birds (quail, pigeons) or large farm-
used. The exquisite nature of this thick cream yard animals (ducks, capons, roosters, turkeys,
makes it ideal served with berries or fruit tarts, and geese, guinea or game hens, chickens), choose the Whipped cream
it is recommended in cooking, especially in best available. In France, find ducks from Challans,
preparing sauces. Heavy (whipping or double) chickens from the Bourdonnais, Bresse or Sarthe
cream is called fleurette in French, and is ideal regions, geese from the Touraine. Pick them
for making whipped cream, which is called chan- free-range, grain-fed and at the right age. Avoid at all
tilly cream when it is sweetened. The secret to costs industrially produced animals, even if the
making it is putting the cream, the mixing bowl price is attractive. It is better to eat a fine product!
and the whisk or (electric) beaters in the refrig- occasionally rather than eating poor quality foods
erator an hour before whipping. When ready, often. Farmed rabbits are also sold by the poultry
Quail's eggs
whip without stopping until the beaters leave an butcher, an oddity that dates back to the Middle Ages.
impression in the cream. Beat it any longer and Under poultry, we also include fresh duck, chicken
it will turn into butter, any less and it will be and rabbit livers, which are wonderful pan-fried with
runny. If making chantilly, sprinkle in sugar when a few salad greens, and foie gras, fattened livers of
the cream has begun to form peaks but is still geese (the best of which come from Alsace) or of
soft. If only thick cremefraiche is available, dilute ducks (from the southwest), as well as magrets
with a little iced water for the right consistency. (fattened duck breasts), rillettes (seasoned duck or
EGGS: Eggs in France are sold at the cremerie, along goose meat cooked in its fat, then cooled until spread-
with dairy products (which is as strange as finding able) and confit (whole pieces of meat preserved in

FRENCH INGREDIENTS 37
 fat), also specialties of the southwest that illustrate lamb, the flesh of which is pale and tender,
masterful skill and patience. unweaned from its mother's milk, or "white"
lamb, with dark red meat and very white fat,
MEAT A N D CHARCUTERIE fed on milk and grass in the open air. The best
meat is from Sologne, Sisteron and the
Nothing can replace the knowledge of a specialist, Normandy coast (where feeding on the greens
especially when it comes to something as crucial as salted by the rising tides flavors the meat). The
meat, the cornerstone of French culinary tradi- "noble" cuts are the leg of lamb, the saddle, and
tion. All slaughterhouse animals are divided into chops that should be eaten medium rare. Other
the noble, expensive cuts that require short cook- prized milk-fed animals are piglets (less than
ing times (grilling or roasting), and the cheaper, two months old) and young male goats, from
"lower" cuts, that are slow cooked (boiled, braised the Poitou or from Corsica.
or simmered). If an animal has been raised and VEAL: Its pale pink flesh, with very white fat, is
slaughtered correctly, every cut willbe full of tender and moist. It is served medium. 100%
flavor, so long as it is cooked well. We will not milk-fed veal (said to be "from under the mother"
discuss game animals here, or horsemeat, simply in French) from the Limousin or the Touraine
because one cannot hope to do it all! regions is the nee plus ultra. The best cuts are the
Lciffib
fillets, the chops and the eye round that the
l Neck LAMB: These days, mutton, thought to be too
2 Rib and loin strong in taste, has been replaced by milk-fed butcher cuts into scallops. Veal offal (liver, sweet-
(chops and roast)
3 Shoulder
4 Spareribs
5 Flank
6 Saddle
7 Leg of lamb
Veal
1 Head
2 Neck
3 Chops
4 Shoulder
5 Shank
6 Breast
7 Loin
8 Flank
9 Rump
10 Sirloin
11 Sirloin tip
12 Round

38 PART TWO: COOKING IN PARIS

 breads, kidneys, tripe, feet and head) are enjoyed cured or smoked. Pork is the most valued
by connoisseurs. commodity in producing charcuterie or
BEEF: The meat should be deep red in color, with various forms of dried, cured or preserved
yellowing fat, and should be well aged, served meats: cured hams like those from Bayonne
only two to three weeks after slaughter. Used any (substitute Spanish serrano ham), smoked hams
earlier and it will render water. If you have like those from Alsace, or boiled au torchon
bought meat that has not had time to age (light which is the favorite in Paris; fresh sausages
red in color and bloody), you can age it at home. like garlic sausages, or dried ones like jesus, Beef
1 Jowl
Remove it from its wrapping, place it on a plate, rosette de Lyon or dried sausages from 2 Neck
brush with a little oil and leave in the refrigerator Auvergne, cooking sausages like pistachio 3 Blade or chuck
for a few days, turning from time to time, so that sausages from Lyon or Morteaux sausages; roast
4 Ribs
it will release its water. The quality cuts (ten- blood (also called black) pudding or sausage, 5 Brisket
derloin, rib eye, rib and rump steaks) are eaten made with pork fat and onions, andouilles from 6 Shank
rare, or even raw as is the case with steak tartare. Vire or Guemene, hand-tied andouillettes 7 Short ribs
8 Stewing or
The best races for beef in France are the Lim- (chitterling sausage), the best being certified ground beef
ousine, Salers, Charolaise and Blonde d'Aquitaine. by the AAAAA (Amicable Association of (mince)
PORK: The most affordable of what is erroneously Authentic Andouillette Appreciators), rillettes, 9 Rib eye
10 Top loin
referred to as white meat. The best cuts of fresh slated and smoked bacon, trotters, stuffed or 11 Tenderloin
pork are the loin, tenderloin and chops. In plain. The French say that the whole of the pig 12 Tip steak or
makes for good eating? roast
Alsace, the blade and shoulder are enjoyed salt
13 Flank steak
14 Sirloin
15 Rolled rump
16 Round steak or
roast

Pork
1 Jowl
2 Neck
3 Back fat
4 Blade chops
5 Loin roast
6 Picnic roast
7 (Ham) hock
8 Rib chops and
tenderloin
9 Ham
10 Belly and
bacon

FRENCH INGREDIENTS 39
 Part Three: The Recipes
Basic recipesfor sauces and dressing
precede thosefor main dishes, which begin on page 44
Basil Dressing
Measurements
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 large white mushrooms, cleaned and Measurements in this book are given in volume
finely chopped as far as possible: 1 measuring cup contains
2 ripe, firm tomatoes, peeled and seeded 250 ml (roughly 8 oz); 1 teaspoon contains
(see page 32), finely chopped 5 ml, while 1 tablespoon contains 15 ml or
1 handful basil leaves, finely chopped the equivalent of 3 teaspoons.
(reserve a few whole leaves to garnish)
Juice of 3 lemons
Salt and pepper to taste Servings
1 cup (250 ml) olive oil
Unless otherwise stated, all recipes are for
Place the shallots, mushrooms, and tomatoes in a 4 people.
mixing bowl, add the finely chopped basil leaves, Opposite:
Wild Asparagus
setting aside a few for decoration. With a fork, whisk Ingredients and Snow Peas
the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and oil, and stir into with. Poached
When a recipe lists a hard-to-find or an
vegetables. Eggs (see recipe,
unusual ingredient, see pages 31 and 39 for page 43).
possible substitutes.
Tomato Sauce
and cook, stirring from time to time, until the
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced mixture thickens, about 30 minutes.
2 onions, peeled and sliced
1 bouquet garni comprising 3 stalks of parsley,
1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf
2 lb (1 kg) flavorful tomatoes, peeled, seeded, Orange Buerre Blanc Sauce
and roughly chopped (see page 32)
3 oranges, reserve zest of one orange and juice
Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat, saute the all three
onion and garlic, stirring often so they do not brown. 1 glass dry white wine
Add the bouquet garni, tomatoes, salt, and pepper, 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1V4 cups (250 g) chilled butter, cubed small

BASIC RECIPES 41
To make the sauce, combine orange juice, wine, Sauce Vierge
and shallots in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil,
Generous pinch of salt
reduce heat and reduce until only 1 tablespoon
Juice of 2 lemons
of liquid remains. Over very low heat, gradually Freshly ground pepper
whisk butter cubes into the reduced liquid, 8 tablespoons olive oil
then finish by adding the zest. This orange 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut in very
beurre blanc sauce—which as you can see takes small dice
no effort whatsoever—should be kept warm 1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
until you are ready to serve. 1 tablespoon black olives, from Nice if possible,
pitted and sliced into rings
Buerre Blanc
In a non-reactive saucepan, dissolve the salt in the
3
/ 4 cup (200 ml) white wine lemon juice, then add pepper and olive oil and whisk
1 tablespoon white vinegar together with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients
1 sprig thyme and set aside at room temperature.
1 bay leaf
3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
Salt Champagne Sauce
Freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon heavy (double) cream
3 5 green asparagus, washed and cut into pieces
/4 cup (150 g) butter, at room temperature
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1V4 cups (300 ml) Champagne (substitute with
dry sparkling wine)
Put the wine and vinegar, the thyme and bay 2 cups (500 ml) heavy (double) cream
leaf, the shallots, salt, and pepper in a small, Pinch saffron
non-reactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and, very V2 cup (100 g) unsalted butter, cubed, at room
gently, reduce to 1 tablespoon. Discard the thyme temperature
and bay leaf. Switch off the heat and add the Heat oil in a pan and gently cook asparagus and
cream, then the butter, bit by bit, whisking by shallots. Add the champagne then reduce until
hand, and, finally, add the juice of half a almost dry. Add the cream, saffron, salt, and pepper
lemon. Strain through a chinois or sieve and and cook very gently for a few more minutes, stir-
hold over a simmering double boiler. ring. Process or blend the sauce, then strain through
a chinois or sieve. Return to low heat, whisk in but-
ter cubes, remove from direct heat and reserve in
a double boiler.

42 BASIC R E C I P E S
 Red Wine Sauce cut into thin strips), blanced and refreshed
in iced water
3 cups (750 ml) Julienas, or other red 1
/3 cup (30 g) parmesan, shaved
Beaujolais, wine A little chervil and some chives
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 bouquet garni of 1 stalk parsley, 1 sprig Vinaigrette
thyme, and 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Coarsely ground mignonette peppercorns 4 tablespoons peanut (groundnut) oil
lV 4 cups (300 ml) veal fond
3
4 cup (200 ml) carrot juice (fresh is possible) Cook asparagus and snow peas in salted, boiling
2
/3 cup (125 g) butter water for 5 minutes. Taste the vegetables, they
should still be firm. Drain and plunge into a bowl
In a saucepan, very gently reduce the wine at a
of iced water so that they will stay green until you
simmer with the shallots, bouquet garni, sugar,
are ready to serve. Drain again. Set aside.
and a good pinch of mignonette, until about 1 cup
To make a vinaigrette, whisk together with a fork
(250 ml) liquid is left. Add the fond, and reduce by
the balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, and oil in a bowl.
half again. Add the carrot juice and correct the
Set this aside, too.
seasoning. Whisk in the butter, a little at a time.
Just before serving, bring the water to a simmer
Strain through a chinois or sieve and keep warm
in a shallow pan, and add the white vinegar. Break
in the top of a simmering double boiler.
an egg into a bowl, then carefully slip it into
the water. The water should simmer, not boil!
Cook for 4 minutes, remove with a slotted spoon
Aspergues Sauvaes et Pois Gourmands and drain on paper towel (kitchen roll). Do the same
owe Oeufs Mollets for the three remaining eggs.
WUd Asparagus and Snow Peas with Poached On pretty plates, arrange the asparagus in a circle
Eggs (Catherine Guerraz, Chez Catherine) around the edges, place the peas in the center and an
egg on top. Sprinkle with chopped tomato, lemon zest,
1 bunch wild asparagus (or baby green
asparagus), tough stems discarded, tied shaved parmesan, and finish with the vinaigrette.
in a bundle Garnish this coolly stunning dish with sprigs of
13 oz (400 g) snow peas (mange-tout'), chervil and chives, and accompany with a white
threads removed Macron or a Savennieres (photograph on page 40).
4 cups (1 liter) water
2 tablespoons white vinegar
4 eggs
1 tomato, peeled (see page 32), dipped in
iced water, deseeded and diced
Zest of 1 lemon (removed with a peeler and
BASIC R E C I P E S 43
 LEGUMES FRINTANIERS MARINES A LA CORIANDRE
Spring Vegetables Marinated in Coriander (Flora Mikufa, Les Olivades)

Set aside an hour the night before serving, or in the Bring the wine and lemon juice to a boil in a
morning if you are serving this dish in the evening, saucepan, then add the oil, coriander seeds, thyme,
to give the vegetables enough time to marinate. and salt.
Cook each vegetable separately in this mixture,
2 cups (500 ml) dry white wine making sure they remain firm. Cook the asparagus
2 cups (500 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice and the mushrooms for 5 minutes; the carrots
(5 to 10 lemons, depending on size)
1 cup (250 ml) olive oil and onions for 10 minutes. Remove them with a
1 tablespoon coriander seeds slotted spoon and set aside in a serving bowl.
1 sprig thyme When the vegetables are done, boil the liquid
1 teaspoon salt until reduced by half, then pour onto the vegetables
1 bunch green asparagus, washed stems
and leave to marinate at room temperature.
removed
1 bunch baby (new) carrots, peeled and When you are ready to serve, decorate with fresh
washed, retain a little of the green stem cilantro leaves. This refreshing appetizer is an
6V2 oz (200 g) fresh button mushrooms, base adaptation of the classic vegetables a la grecque.
of stems trimmed, brushed clean Accompany with a white Cassis.
6V2 oz (200 g) scallion (spring onion)
bulbs, peeled
1 bunch fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves
and stems

44 APPETIZERS
 BAVAROISES DE TOMATES, SAUCE BASILIC
Tomato Bavarois with Basil Dressing (Catherine Guetraz, Chez Catherine)

Remember that the bavaroises need a few hours Heat 1 tablespoon oil over low heat and saute the
to chill and set. Prepare them in the morning if onion. Add the chopped tomato, garlic, tomato paste,
serving in the evening, or the night before. Finish thyme, bay leaf, and a generous pinch of salt. Let
them just before serving. This recipe serves 8 (it's the mixture reduce gently for 20 minutes. Stir
not worth the trouble to make less). occasionally with a wooden spoon. Once the
vegetables have cooked, remove the thyme and bay
1 teaspoon olive oil leaf, force the tomato mixture through a sieve. Add
1 medium onion, peeled and minced the vinegar and the gelatin (squeeze the sheets dry
5 ripe, firm tomatoes, peeled (see page 32)
if used), mix very thoroughly and cool to room
and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced temperature. While it is cooling, place the bowl,
1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrate) whisk, and cream in the refrigerator.
1 sprig thyme When the tomato mixture is cool but not set, beat
1 hay leaf the cream until firm (see page 37) and fold it in
Pinch salt
carefully. Fill 8 ramekins and chill until set.
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
3 sheets gelatin softened with a little cold Before serving, prepare the Basil Dressing (see
water, or 1 tablespoon powdered gelatin page 41) and stir it into the vegetables. To serve,
1 cup (250 ml) heavy (double) cream unmold the baravoises onto individual plates,
Basil Dressing (see page 41) surround with sauce and garnish with a basil leaf.
It would be hard to make it any prettier. Accompany
with a white or rose Cassis.

46 APPETIZERS
 RAGOUT DE FEVES A LA CORIANDRE, OEUF CASSE
Coriander Fava Bean Ragout with a 'Broken" Egg (Christian Etchebest, Le Tmquet)

4 lb (2 kg) fava (broad) beans Shell the fava beans, blanch for 3 minutes in salted
2 tablespoons olive oil boiling water, drain, and rinse in cold water. Cut the
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced skin of each bean and pop the bean out. The process
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
31/2 oz (100 g) smoked bacon, skinned is a little fussy, but worth the trouble. Set beans aside
and cubed in a coolplace.
4 eggs To make the sauce, combine all the ingredients
2 tablespoons white vinegar (for poaching in a bowl and mix well. Set aside.
the eggs) Heat the oil in a skillet, saute the onion for 2 min-
1 bunch fresh cilantro (coriander)
utes, then add the carrots and bacon and cook for
Sauce further 5 minutes, stirring often with a wooden
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar spoon. All of this can be done in advance.
6 tablespoons olive oil Just before serving, poach the eggs (see page 43).
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, slightly crushed
Reheat the onion, carrot, and bacon gently, add the
Salt
Freshly ground pepper beans to warm them slightly, remove from heat
and add 4 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. Mix, taste
and correct seasoning with salt and pepper,
if needed.
Arrange the bean ragout in four soup plates,
place a poached egg atop each plate, pour over the
remaining vinaigrette, and sprinkle with fresh
cilantro leaves.
At the very last moment, pierce each egg with
the tip of a knife so that the yolk seeps out.
Accompany with a white Irouleguy.

48 APPETIZERS
 SOUPE DE POISSON
Fish Soup (Philippe Tredgeu, Chez Casitnir)

T h e r e is a choice of two garnishes for this soup: Put all the soup ingredients in a large pot, b r i n g to
croutous or cream—both are equally delicious. a boil a n d leave to s i m m e r , covered, for 1 h o u r .
W h e n it h a s cooked, b l e n d t h e s o u p i n a food
Trimmings from 4 dorades (porgies), processor o n its finest setting.
i.e. the heads, bones and tails normally
While the soup is cooking, prepare either garnish,
discarded once the fish have been cleaned,
scaled, and filleted; ask your fishmonger as y o u prefer. If y o u h a v e settled o n croutons, fry
for the same amount of trimmings from t h e b r e a d in a little olive oil over low h e a t until
other fish like sole and dab (lemon sole) golden, t h e m place directly i n t h e soup plates,
or whatever h e has readily available.
1 small can tomato paste (concentrate) sprinkle with fleur de sel a n d add a few shavings of
4 large cloves garlic p a r m e s a n . If y o u choose t h e cream, b e a t until firm
1 bouquet garni comprising 4 stems of flat-leaf (see page 37) w i t h saffron (for color a n d flavor),
parsley, 1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf garlic, a n d salt. At t h e last m i n u t e , using a spoon
2 small chilies dipped in h o t water, float a dollop of c r e a m on each
1 handful sea salt crystals
serving of s t e a m i n g h o t soup.
12 black and white peppercorns
4 cups (1 liter) cold water E v e n w h e n served with such refinement, this
sublime dish costs next to nothing. Money does not
Crouton Garnish m a k e for good cooking, only skill a n d a little
2 slices stale bread, cubed creativity do. A c c o m p a n y with a w h i t e Cassis.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 cup (25 g) parmesan, shaved
Fleur de sel (salt crystals) Helpful hint: If y o u h a v e m a d e a tomato bavaroise
or tartare (pages 46 a n d 62) t h e d a y before, add t h e
Cretan Garnish u n u s e d skins a n d seeds to t h e t o m a t o paste.
Pinch saffron
1 clove garlic
1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy (double) cream
Pinch salt

50 APPETIZERS
 SOUPE GLACEE DE CONCOMBRES, SOUPE CREMEUSE D'ASPERGES VERTES,
MENTHE ET PAPRIKA OEUF DE CAILLE, PANCETTA
Cold Cucumber, Mint, and Paprika Soup Green Asparagus, Quail Egg, and Pancetta Cream Soup
(Stephane Baron, Le Zephyr) (Christian Etchebest, Le Troquet)

3 slender, firm cucumbers, with shiny skins You can make this soup in advance, reheat it or
1 hunch of mint, green or peppermint, serve it cold, as you like. Another convenient
depending on your taste, washed and thing about this recipe is that the asparagus does not
patted dry have to be peeled. Just rinse and cut off a little of
2 large shallots, peeled and chopped
1
/2 cup (125 ml) fresh whole milk the tough stem.
1
/2 cup (125 ml) heavy (double) cream 3 tablespoons olive oil
1 level tablespoon strong Dijon mustard 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
Drizzle of sherry vinegar 3 bunches green asparagus, tough stems
Pinch salt discarded, tips removed, stalks sliced
Pinch freshly ground pepper 1 Bayonne ham end (substitute with any
Pinch paprika other dry cured ham)
1 sprig thyme
At least 1 hour before mealtime, wash the cucumbers, 1 bay leaf
cut them in half lengthwise without peeling them, 2 chicken bouillon cubes
remove the seeds by scraping the 4 cups (1 liter) water
center with a little spoon, chop Pinch salt
the cucumber and place in Pinch freshly gound pepper
Scant1/2cup (100 ml) heavy (double) cream
a food processor. Wash,
1 slice of country bread sliced into small
pat dry the mint, and croutons
add3/4of the leaves to the 4 shoes pancetta (substitute with smoked bacon)
cucumber, together with 4 quail eggs
the shallots, milk, cream, 1 bunch chives, chopped
mustard, vinegar, salt,
Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over low heat
and pepper. Process until
and saute the onion. Add the sliced asparagus
smooth, correct seasoning if
stalks and cook for five minutes, stirring with
necessary, and chill until serving.
a wooden spoon. Add the ham, thyme, bay leaf,
When ready, whisk the soup lightly, pour
bouillon cubes, and water, bring to a boil, then
four equal servings into soup bowls, and garnish with
reduce to a simmer, 45 minutes. Discard the
the remaining chopped reserved mint, leaves and a
thyme, bay leaf, and ham, then put the rest through
sprinkling of paprika for color and taste.
the food processor and sieve. Season with salt

52 APPETIZERS
 SOUPE GLACEE DE TOMATES
A U BASILIC
Cold Tomato and Basil Soup
(Flora Mikula, Le Olivades)
6 lb (3 kg) tomatoes on the vine,
very ripe
1 red bell pepper (capsicum), washed,
seeded, and roughly chopped
1/2 onion, peeled and cut in half
1 stalk celery, washed and chopped
7 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 hunch of basil
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons superfine (caster)
sugar
Pinch salt
Pinch freshly ground pepper
A few drops Tabasco, optional
4 tablespoons olive oil
and pepper, add cream, and mix again. If you opt
for hot soup, reheat just before serving.
However you choose to serve it, just before Tapenade
sitting down, pan-fry the croutons in 1 tablespoon 4 slices bread
5 oz (150 g) black
of the oil until golden; broil (grill) the pancetta in olives, pitted
the oven until crisp (about 3 to 5 mintues); and fry 1 oz (30 g) salted
the eggs in the reamining oil in a pan until the anchovies
white is set. Garnish each soup bowl with an egg, 1 clove
garlic,
a slice of pancetta, a few asparagus tips, and a
peeled
scattering of croutons. In a soup tureen, serve 3 table-
the soup topped with chopped chives. This soup spoons
is deceptively suave. olive oil

APPETIZERS 53
 To prepare this soup, first Also, serve a tapenade, or olive paste, on the
preheat the oven to side. Mix all the ingredients (except for bread)
300°F (150°C, until smooth in food processor. Just before
gas 2) on the serving, spread this delicious condiment on
night before, the toasted bread, cut into quarters and serve
or on the with the soup.
morning of
the evening CREME DE LENTILLES
meal. In a
Cream of Lentil Soup
baking dish,
lace the toma- 61/2 (200 g) lentils, preferably from Le Puy,
bell pepper, soaked in cold water for 2 hours, drained
onion, and celery. 1 carrot, peeled and chopped
Wash and pat dry the basil, 1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 bouquet garni comprising 4 stalks parsley,
remove the leaves and set aside in a dish towel, add
1 sprig tfiyme, and 1 bay leaf
a few of the stems to the vegetables in the baking 2 chicken bouillon cubes, mixed in 4 cups
dish, along with 5 of the garlic cloves, the thyme, (1 liter) boiling water to make a stock,
and the bay leaf. Sprinkle with sugar and salt, cooled
then cover with a l u m i n u m foil. Bake for Pinch salt
2l/2 hours. Cool. Pinch freshly ground pepper
1 knob butter, cut into small pieces
When the vegetable compote is ready, put
it through a food processor, then force through Cream Garnish
a sieve, pressing and stirring until all that is 1/2cup (125 ml) heavy (double) cream
1/3 cup (40 g) chopped hazelnuts
left in the sieve is a fibrous, nearly dry residue that
you can discard. Taste the soup, correct the salt Crouton Garnish
if needed, add the pepper and Tabasco, if 2 shoes of stale bread, cubed
used. Cool to room temperature, then leave in 2 tablespoons butter
refrigerator until serving. In the meantime, make Pinch salt
some basil oil by blending the remaining 2 cloves Place the drained lentils in a pot. Add the carrot
of garlic, the reserved basil leaves and the oil in and onion, the bouquet garni, and the cold bouill
the food processor. When everyone has been on. Skim when it reaches a boil, then cover and
seated around the table, you can drizzle this simmer for 1 hour. Add salt halfway through
fragrant oil directly on the soup in an attractive (but not much, the bouillon already contains
pattern. salt). When the lentils are done, put through a

54 APPETIZERS
food processor and then sieve the soup. Add a Over medium heat, melt the butter, and, when
hint of pepper and the butter pieces, mix and it starts to foam, add the onions, then cook,
serve with the garnish of your choice. stirring with a wooden spoon, until they begin
Prepare the garnish when the soup is almost to color. Sprinkle with flour and stir—it should
ready. If you have chosen the cream, beat it until be a rich golden color. Pour in the boiling stock,
stiff (see page 37), then add the nuts and, at the stir and leave to simmer 10 minutes, stirring from
last minute, gently place a dollop of cream on time to time.
the surface of each soup bowl using a spoon Pour the soup into an ovenproof t u r e e n
dipped in hot water. If you prefer croutons, fry (better still, into 4 individual soup bowls). Cover
the bread in butter over low heat until golden, the surface with slices of baguette or other bread,
sprinkle with salt, then add to the cream of lentils. cover with the cheese and broil (grill) in the
oven until golden.
SOUPE A L'OIGNON GRATINEE Traditionally, this legendary soup is designed
French Onion Soup to comfort night owls and those who work
at night.
1/4 cup (50 g) butter
8 oz (250 g) yellow onions
21/2 tablespoons (25 g) flour
3 chicken bouillon cubes, mixed in
6 cups ( l1/2liters) boiling water
to make a stock
Stale bread, preferably baguette
3
/4 cup (100 g) freshly grated
emmenthal cheese

APPETIZERS 55
 FLANS DE POTIRONAUX POMMES ET AUX NOISETTES
Pumpkin Flans with Apples and Hazelnuts (Stephane Baron, he Zephyr)

2 lb (1 kg) pumpkin (or butternut squash) Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C, gas mark 3).
1 chicken bouillon cube Butter four 200 ml ramekins, or failing that, a 1 liter
3
/4 cup (200 ml) boiling water terrine. Beat the eggs, add to the pumpkin, blend
3
/4 cup (200 ml) heavy (double) cream
Pinch salt in food processor, and correct the seasoning as
Pinch freshly ground pepper needed. Add half the apple to the pumpkin.
Pinch cayenne pepper Reserve the other half, coated in lemon juice, for
6 eggs decoration.
1 large Granny Smith apple (or any other tart, Place the filled ramekins in a baking dish
cooking apple), washed, quartered, cored,
and pour boiling water around them, then bake
and finely diced
for 30 to 45 minutes. The flan should not dry
Vinaigrette out, or harden, and the blade of knife should
1/3 cup (50 g) chopped hazelnuts come out moist, but clean. Remove from oven
1 1/4 tablespoons butter
and leave to rest for 10 minutes. In the meantime,
Juice of half a lemon
2 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar make the vinaigrette with salt, pepper, vinegar
4 tablespoons corn, sesame, or sunflower oil and the two oils. Unmold the flan onto a plate,
4 tablespoons hazelnut (or walnut) oil pour on vinaigrette, arrange the diced apple in
a line around the flan and sprinkle with
Peel and seed the pumpkin, cut the flesh into
hazelnuts. When the weather turns dreary and cold,
chunks, place in a pot, just cover with cold water,
this dish is delicate and stunning.
bring to a boil, then immediately drain the
Accompany with a white Cassis.
vegetables you have just blanched.
You can use the same pot to prepare the
bouillon with the boiling water. Add the cream,
drained pumpkin, salt, pepper, and cayenne
pepper. Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes,
stirring constantly, until the pumpkin becomes a
thick puree. Cool slightly for 10 minutes.

56 APPETIZERS
 BOULETTES DEPINARDS AU BROCCIO
Spinach Croquettes with Broccio (Jean-Jacques Kaffiani, Paris Main d'Or)

1 portion Tomato Sauce (see page 42) In a mixing bowl, beat the eggs with a fork, add the
1 lb (500 g) spinach flour, the Broccio, the spinach, 1 tablespoon of
2 eggs the parmesan, and season with nutmeg, salt, and
1
/2 cup (75 g) all-purpose (plain) flour
1 lb (500 g) Broccio or Brousse, or even well- pepper. Mix thoroughly. With your hands, form
drained Fromage Blanc, made from ewe's croquettes the size of a small egg, arrange on a
milk if possible platter and chill in freezer for 10 minutes to make
1
/2 cup (50 g) freshly grated parmesan them easier to handle.
Nutmeg
In a wide saucepan, bring a large quantity of
Salt
Freshly ground pepper salted water to a simmer. Drop in the croquettes,
and remove with a slotted spoon as soon as they rise
Start with the Tomato Sauce, which can be made to the surface; drain on paper towels. Be careful that
in advance (see page 41). the water does not boil or the croquettes will fall apart.
Shortly before mealtime, trim the spinach. Take Place a layer of tomato sauce at the bottom of a
a leaf in one hand, fold it inward along the stalk, shallow baking dish, arrange the croquettes on top,
then pull the stem off. It sounds like a complicated sprinkle with parmesan and broil (grill) until golden.
operation, but it quickly becomes second nature. This is a hearty appetizer. It can also be served
Wash and dry the leaves carefully, then wilt the with a little salad to make a light main course.
leaves in a pan over high heat, drain again, and Accompany with a white Cassis.
squeeze the leaves between your hands to remove
any remaining water. Chop coarsely.

58 APPETIZERS
 ROTIES DE SARDINES ET LEUR TARTARE P E TOMATES
Roast Sardines with a Tomato Tartar (Philippe Tredgtu, Chez Casimir)

4 large, ripe tomatoes, firm and fragrant Half an hour before serving, peel and seed
2 shallots, preferably the long Jersey type, the tomatoes, and cut into small cubes over a
peeled and finely chopped bowl. Add the shallots, chopped parsley (or
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley or
chives), sherry vinegar, and salt and pepper to
chives, chopped
1 tablespoon aged sherry wine vinegar taste. Mix well.
Sea salt (or even better flew de sel sea salt) Preheat oven to 500°F (250°C, gas mark 10).
Finely and coarsely ground pepper Brush a baking sheet with oil, place the fillets skin
2 tablespoons olive oil side up, brush with more oil, and add salt and
12 large sardines, shiny-eyed and firm-fleshed; pepper. Arrange the salad greens on four plates.
have your fishmonger scale and fillet them
1 small handful of salad greens, for color Toast the bread until golden. Then place the
rather than taste, washed and dried sardines in the hot oven for 2 minutes until firm.
4 slices sourdough bread, crusty outside, dense Place a toasted slice of bread over the greens,
and elastic inside garnish with the tomato mixture, remove the
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
fillets with a spatula and arrange them, fanned
Basil Oil out, over the top. They are more attractive skin side
1 bunch basil up. Pour 1 tablespoon of basil oil onto each plate,
1 cup (250 ml) rich-flavored olive oil then sprinkle with a few drops of balsamic vinegar
Four days before making this dish, prepare the to obtain a stunning marbled effect. Add a pinch
basil oil. On the day of the meal, i.e. on the third of salt, a pinch of coarsely ground pepper, and
night of infusion, strain the basil oil, reserving the serve immediately.
chopped basil leaves to be used to make the
potatoes on page 76, for example. Both leaves and
oil maybe kept separately, covered and chilled, for
a week.

60 APPETIZERS
 TARTARE DE DORADE & NOIX DE SAINT-JACQUES
Dorade Tartare with Dill (Thierry Colas, Marty) L
Scallops with Citrus Vinaigrette (Joel Renty, Brasserie Mollard)

D O R A D E T A R T A R E WITH DILL SCALLOPS WITH CITRUS VINAIGRETTE

1 lb (500 g) dorade or porgy, cleaned, skinned, 61/2 (200 g) salad greens, washed and diced
and boned by the fishmonger 1 lemon
1 small bunch of dill 1 orange
Juice of 4-5 limes, depending on dieir size 1 yellow grapefruit
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped 4 cups (1 liter) boiling water
6V2 tablespoons olive oil 1 packet court bouillon powder
6V2 tablespoons peanut oil 12 scallops, cleaned by the fishmonger
Salt 1 small bunch chives, chopped
1 tablespoon brine-packed green peppercorns,
rinsed Vinaigrette
Dorade Tartare 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
with Dill; the The night before, mix the dill stems (keep the leafy
photograph of
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Scallops with part in the refrigerator wrapped in a slightly damp 6 tablespoons peanut (groundnut) oil
Citrus Vinaigrette towel or cloth as garnish), lime juice, shallots, both
appears on Divide salad greens equally among four plates. Wash
oils, pepper, and a generous pinch of salt. Leave to
page 4. and wipe dry the fruits, remove their skin with a zester
marinate all night. Process or liquidize, then strain
over a chinois or colander, pour 4 cups (1 liter)
through a chinois, pressing firmly with the back of
boiling water over them, drain and reserve. Make the
a spoon to extract every drop of flavor.
vinaigrette by whisking together vinegar, salt, pepper,
On a cutting board, chop the dorade as if you were
and oil. Make the court bouillon according to the
mincing onions. Transfer to a non-reactive bowl,
instructions on the package. When it simmers, drop
reserve 3 tablespoons of sauce and add the rest to
in the scallops with their coral still attached and cook
the fish. Add the dill (again keeping some leaves for
for 1 l/2 to 2 minutes. Do not allow them to boil or
decoration). Taste and correct salt, if needed. Put the
the flesh will become rubbery. Drain, cut in two, then
tartare in four small bowls and chill. To serve,
place the warm scallops on the beds of greens,
unmold onto plates, drizzle a line of sauce around the
sprinkle with zests, season with vinaigrette and
tartare and decorate with the reserved dill leaves.
garnish with chopped chives. Serve this marvelous
Serve with toasted bread and a very coldbandol rose.
salad with a gros-plant or a muscadet-sur-lie.

62 APPETIZERS
 GRATIN PTCREVISSES
Crayfish Gratin (Patrick Rayer, La Rotisserie du Beaujolais)

5 shallots, peeled and chopped You now have a third of the juices left in the
11/4 tablespoons butter pari. Add "foe cream an6 Teauce again, stirring
4 lb (2 kg) crayfish (if unavailable, substitute often with a wooden spoon, until the spoon is
with jumbo shrimp)
11/2 cups (400 ml) white dry wine (a Macon coated with sauce that is as thick and smooth as
would be perfect) custard. Remove the pan from the heat and cool
Rock salt for a few minutes. If there are still a few crayfish
Table salt to peel, it's now or never.
Finely and coarsely ground pepper Light the broiler (grill). In a bowl, whisk the yolks
1V4 cups (300 ml) heavy (double) cream
with two or three spoonfuls of sauce then slowly
4 egg yolks
1
/2 cup (50 g) freshly, finely grated pour the contents of the bowl back into the
emmenthal cheese saucepan, whisking constantly. Taste and correct
An hour before mealtime, peel and chop 2 of the seasoning if necessary.
shallots, saute them in butter over low heat, then add Divide the crayfish equally among four individ-
the crayfish, half of the wine, a pinch of rock salt and ual gratin dishes, or if you do not have any, place
a pinch of coarse pepper and cook for 7 to 8 minutes in one large baking dish. Cover with sauce, sprin-
until the shellfish turn red. Remove with a slotted kle with cheese, and brown quickly in the oven for
spoon, place in a dish and allow to cool slightly. a few seconds.
Enjoy this masterpiece of Burgundian tradition
Use this time to chop the rerriaining shallots, then
immediately, and accompany with a white Macon.
pour them into a saucepan with the remaining wine,
and the strained cooking juice from the crayfish.
Reduce by two-thirds over medium heat. Don't
fall asleep on the job. By now, the crayfish will
have cooled sufficiently to be peeled. Set aside
the tails and use the heads for another dish, like
a. bisque.

64 APPETIZERS
 CREVETTES DOREES, ARTICHAUTS
ET CELERI AUX AGRUMES
Golden Prawns, Artichokes and Celery with Citrus Fruit (Thierry Colas, Marty)

Scant 1/2 cup (100 ml) olive oil When the vegetables are almost ready, fry the
1 bunch celery, outer stalks discarded, washed shrimp in a second pan in the remaining oil, over
1 teaspoon coriander seeds or 1 small bunch of high heat, for 3 or 4 minutes, depending on their size.
fresh cilantro (coriander)
Arrange the vegetables on plates, top with the
Zest of 1/2 orange
Juice of 2 oranges shrimp and serve immediately, accompanied by a
Juice of 1 lemon white Bandol.
Salt
Freshly ground pepper Helpful hints: Substitute 1 small celery root
24 large raw shrimp (prawns), peeled (celeriac) for the celery. Peel and wash it then dice
Drain artichoke hearts and pat dry; slice the into it into1/2" m (1-cm) cubes. For added luxury, cook
thin wedges, like pieces of a pie. this dish with raw langoustines (or Dublin Bay
Heat half of the oil in a deep skillet over medium prawns).
heat and saute the celery, artichokes, and corian-
der seeds (if using fresh cilantro add to the pan just
before plating) for 5 minutes, stirring from time to
time. Add both juices and the zest, salt, and pepper,
and cook 10 to 15 minutes until the juice becomes
slightly syrupy.

66 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 SARDINES FARCIES AU BROCCIO
Broccio-stuffed Sardines (Jean-Jacques Raffiani, Paris Main d'Or)

3 tablespoons olive oil Helpful hint: To make your own fromage frais,
13 oz (400 g) baby leeks (white part only), pour 8 cups (2 liters) whole milk (preferably
outer layers and roots discarded, thinly unpasteurized) into a large saucepan with 4 table-
sliced to yield61/2oz (200 g) spoons white vinegar and a generous pinch of salt.
1 lb (500 g) Broccio or well-drained Frontage
Leave over low heat until the mixture curdles in
Freds, see Helpful hint
a pale yellow liquid. Line your chinois or sieve
16 plump sardines, scaled and cut into fillets
by a fishmonger with a cheesecloth or other very thin fabric, and
Salt pour in the contents of the saucepan. When the
Freshly ground pepper whey has drained completely, you will have a
Lemon wedges compact, delicious fromage frais, that you will need
to cool before using. Alternatively, use ewe's milk
Preheat the oven to 425 °F (220 °C, gas mark 7).
as a substitute to fromage frais.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat and
saute the leek, stirring often to keep it from
browning, which will make it tough. Remove
from heat and transfer to a mizing bowl. Add the
Broccio and mix together with a fork. Add season-
ing and stir again.
Oil a baking dish with a further 1 tablespoon of
the oil, insert half the fillets, cover with the leek and
broccoi mixture then add the remaining fillets.
Drizzle with the remaining oil and place in the oven
for 10 minutes. Serve piping hot, with lemon
wedges and a green salad, and accompany with a
Corsican white.

68 F I S H AND S E A F O O D
 ROUGET A LA TAPENADE,
FENOUIL MARINE ET BEURRE BLANC
Mullet with Tapenade, Marinated Fennel and Beutre Blanc
(Christian Rchebest, Le Troquet)

2 ripe firm tomatoes Remove the stems and the tough, stringy outer
6 tablespoons olive oil leaves of the fennel, then hollow out the core with the
2 plump white fennel bulbs tip of a vegetable peeler and discard. Cut the bulbs in
4 red mullets or red gurnards, 61/2 oz (200 g)
each, filleted half, wash and wipe dry. Slice as thinly as possible,
Juice of 1 lemon perpendicular to the grain with the cut side down.
Rock salt and table salt Transfer to a salad bowl. In a separate bowl, wet a large
Freshly ground pepper pinch of rock salt and the same amount of pepper with
1 portion Beurre Blanc (see page 42) the juice of 1 lemon. Then add 3 tablespoons of the
Tapenade oil while whisking with a fork and pour this emulsion
1 oz (30 g) salt-packed anchovies over the fennel. Mix then set aside to marinate.
31/2 ox (100 g) black olives Prepare the Beurre Blanc (see page 42).
1 clove garlic Season the fillets and cook in a non-stick pan over
1 teaspoon breadcrumbs high heat for 3 minutes, skin side down, with the
4 tablespoons olive oil
remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Place two fillets, skin
Preheat oven to 150°F (70°C). Peel the tomatoes up oin a plate, garnish the skin with a line of tape-
(see page 33), quarter them, discard the seeds and nade, place a small mound of marinated fennel in
core, and place the eight "petals" on a baking sheet. the middle, surround with a little lemon scented
Season with salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the beurre blanc and finish with 2 tomato petals.
oil and bake for 1 hour. Remove and set aside at Accompany with a dry Jurancon.
room temperature.
While the tomatoes are baking, make the tape-
nade by mixing all the ingredients (see page 52).
Process or pound to a paste and set aside.

70 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 ROUGETS ET CHIFIRONS, FINE RATATOUILLE
Red Mullet and Squid, Served with Delicate Ratatouille
(Jean-Jacques Raffiani, Paris Main d'Or)

1lb (500 g) squid (the Basque call them One hour in advance, start cooking the ratatouille.
chipirorC) In a large pan, heat the oil, thyme, and bay leaf over
2 tablespoons olive oil
medium heat, then add onion and garlic. Add the bell
4 small mullets, scaled and filleted by a fish-
monger, seasoned with salt and pepper pepper, eggplant, zucchini, and tomatoes, waiting for
4 sprigs fresh rosemary or thyme, to garnish each vegetable to soften slightly before adding the
next. Do not let your wooden spoon rest, the veg-
Ratatouille
etables should not brown! Cook 30 to 40 minutes, stir-
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 sprig thyme ring from time to time, until the mixture thickens.
1 bay leaf Discard thyme and bay leaves before plating.
1 large yellow onion, peeled and chopped Make the vinaigrette dressing by whisking to-
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped gether the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and oil. Set aside.
1 red bell pepper (capsicum), cut into long While the ratatoille is still cooking, clean the squid.
strips
1 eggplant (aubergine), cut into thick batons Cut off and discard the eyes and head, detach, wash
2 zucchini (courgettes), cut into thick batons and drain the ring the tentacles, cutting out the
4 plump tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsley tough center. Slice open the body and discard every-
chopped thing it contains under cold running water and rub
Vinaigrette off the thin outer film that comes off easily. Drain.
Juice of 1 lemon When the vegetables are nearly ready, heat 2 ta-
Salt blespoons oil in a large non-stick pan and add the
Freshly ground pepper squid and fish (skin side down); cook for 4 minutes,
4 tablespoons onve oil stirring the squid occasionally, then turn the mullet
over, and cook for 1 more minute. Plate the rata-
touille, then place two fillets skin side up on each
plate, surrounded by a circle of squid. Garnish with
a sprig of fresh rosemary or thyme. You will just
about be able to hear the chirping cicadas, as you do
in Provence. Accompany with a white Cassis.

72 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 FILETS DE DORADE ROUS,
POMMES DE TERRE AU BASILIC
Roast Fillest ofDomde with Basil Potatoes (Philippe Tredgeu, Chez Casimir)

2 lb (1 kg) firm potatoes (such as BF 15, roseval, One and a half hours before the meal, preheat the
or charlotte), washed and patted dry oven to 360 °F (180°C, gas mark 4). Wrap each potato
1/3 cup (60 g) butter, plus a litde for the pan
in aluminum foil, place on a rack in the middle of
Bunch fresh basil, chopped
Salt and fleur de set (sea salt crystals) the oven and bake for 1 hour. When the hour is up,
1 tablespoon olive oil test for donenessby inserting the tip of a knife, which
4 dorades or porgies, 10-16 oz (300-500 g) should meet with no resistance. If this is not the case,
each, scaled and filleted with skin intact leave them a little longer. Discard the foil, peel, then
Mignonnette (coarsely ground pepper) transfer to a bowl with butter, basil, and salt. Mash
Few stalks dill, to garnish
4 tablespoons basil oil (see page 58), strained the potatoes with a fork and keep warm.
or unstrained, mixed with 1 tablespoon Place a non-stick pan containing the oil and a
balsamic vinegar, to garnish little butter over medium heat. When the butter
foams, raise the heat slightly, place the fillets skin
side down and cook for 3 to 5 minutes depending
on their size, then flip over for a few seconds more.
Place a circle of potato in the center of each plate,
place two fillets on top, sprinkle with a litde fleur
de sel, a pinch of mignonette, and decorate with a
sprig of dill. Garnish with a ring of basil oil mixed
with a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Serve this
robust, savory dish immediately, and accompany
with a bottle of Touraine or saumur.

74 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 SOLE MEUNIERE, POMMES VAFEUR
Sole Meuniere with Steamed Potatoes (Joel Renty, Brasserie Mollard)

8 potatoes that remain firm when cooked Sprinkle the potatoes with salt, and steam for
(such as charlottes or BF 15), peeled, about 20 minutes (test for doneness with the tip
washed and patted dry
Salt of a knife).
4 single serving soles, skinned on the black After cooking the potatoes for 10 minutes start
side and scraped clean on the white side the fish. Season the sole with salt and pepper,
Freshly ground pepper place the flour in a plate then flour the fish lightly,
Scant 1/2 cup (50 g) flour shaking off any excess. In a large non-stick pan, heat
1 tablespoon peanut (groundnut) oil
1/2 cup (100 g) butter the oil and a lump of the butter (not all the butter)
2 lemons, cut in wedges and cook the fish, 4 minutes each side.
Meanwhile, melt the rest of the butter in a small
saucepan until it foams and reaches a deep golden
color (but don't let it burn!). This is noisette butter,
which will be used as a sauce.
When the fish is cooked, sprinkle on a few drops
of lemon juice, place on heated plates, cover with
a little noisette butter, garnish with potatoes and
lemon wedges and serve immediately. It is hard
to be any more Parisian than this brasserie classic.
Accompany with a Riesling or muscadet-sur-lie.

76 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 DOS DE LOUP GRILLE,
ARTICHAUTS EN BARIGOULE
Grilled Bass with "BarigouleF Artichokes (Flora Mikula, Les Olivades)

Barigoule usually refers to stewed artichokes. H e r e Make cilantro oil b y processing the cilantro leaves,
t h e y are served m i x e d with their garnish. oil, a n d salt. Set aside to b e u s e d as a sauce.
Remove the tough outer leaves from the artichoke.
8 small globe artichokes T r i m all b u t one-quarter of t h e stem, cut each
1/3 cups (100 ml) olive oil + 1 tablespoon to oil
the roasting griddle artichoke in half, r e m o v e the fuzz, a n d trim the
2 carrots, peeled, washed and diced tops of the leaves. Pour l/3 cup (100 ml) of oil into
3 shallots, peeled and chopped a wide, d e e p saucepan, and, over m e d i u m heat,
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped saute t h e carrots, shallots a n d garlic, stirring from
1 teaspoon coriander seeds t i m e to t i m e . T h e n add t h e artichokes, coriander
Juice of 1 lemon
seeds, l e m o n juice, t h y m e , b a y leaves, a n d wine.
3 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves Add salt a n d pepper, and cook over low h e a t for
2 cups (500 ml) white wine 20 m i n u t e s , until t h e artichoke are t e n d e r b u t still
Salt h a v e some bite. W h e n the artichokes are ready, add
Freshly ground pepper t h e b e a n s to t h e pan, together with t h e preserved
2-4 lb (1-2 kg) sea bass or bar, filleted, each fil-
l e m o n a n d cilantro. Bring to a boil before serving,
let cut into 4 equal slices, leaving the skin on
10 oz (300 g) fava (broad) beans, peeled and a n d taste a n d correct seasoning as n e e d e d .
blanched 2 minutes, refreshed in cold water Meanwhile, p r e h e a t t h e o v e n to 410 °F (210°C,
and white covering removed (see page 46) gas m a r k 6V2). Place the slices of bass on a n oiled
1 preserved lemon in brine, chopped
non-stick roasting griddle or tray, skin side down,
1 small bunch fresh cilantro (coriander),
roughly chopped a n d b a k e i n t h e o v e n for 10 to 15 m i n u t e s .
About 20 small black olives, preferably from Arrange t h e r e h e a t e d vegetables o n each plate,
Nice, to garnish place the bass in the middle, season with salt a n d
p e p p e r a n d a drizzle of cilantro oil, garnish with
Cilantro oU
olives a n d serve immediately. A c c o m p a n y with a
1 small bunch fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves
3
/ 4 cup (200 ml) olive oil white Chateauneuf-du-pape.
large pinch salt

78 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 STEAK DE THON AU BEURRE D'ORANGE,
PO£LEE DE COURGETTES
Tuna Steaks with Orange Butter and Zucchini Garnish
(Stephane Baron, Le Zephyr)

1 portion Orange Buerre Blanc Sauce (see Firstly, prepare the Orange Buerre Blanc Sauce (see
page 42) page 42) and keep warm until ready to serve.
1 tablespoon butter
In a large pan, heat 1 tablespoon butter and
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 lb (1 kg) small, firm zucchini (courgettes), 2 tablespoons of the oil, then stir in the zucchini
tipes trimmed, slice into thin rounds or dice until it is cooked but still crisp. Season with salt,
Salt pepper, and a few needles of rosemary.
Freshly ground pepper When the zucchini is almost done, turn your at-
1 sprig fresh (or dried) rosemary
tention to the tuna. Sear one side in a very hot non-
4 small, thick tuna steaks, about61/2oz (200 g)
each, at room temperature (substitute with stick pan containing the remaining oil; turn over as
bonito or swordfish) soon as it has browned, after about 1 minute, lower
Cherry tomatoes, to garnish (optional) the heat, cover and cook for a further 4 minutes. Sea-
son with salt and pepper.
Place zucchini in the center of each plate, top
with tuna, pour the butter over the tuna, and serve
immediately. Cherry tomatoes can be added for a
nice touch of color. Accompany with a white
Graves or a Chardonnay

80 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 TOURNEDOS DE SAUMON AU JAMBON,
SAUCE VIERGE
Ham-mapped Salmon Toutnedos with Sauce Vierge
(Christian Bchebest, he Troquet)

4 large, thin slices of Bayonne ham (substitute Discard the stems and the outer layers of the
with prosciutto or other dry ham) fennel, cut off the core with the tip of a peeler or
1 lb 3 oz (600 g) fillet of salmon, skinned and
paring knife in a cone shape, split each bulb in two
boned
1 portion Sauce Vierge (see page 42) from top to bottom, then slice thickly, in the same
2 fennel bulbs direction. Pour 2 tablespoons of the oil into a wide
4 tablespoons olive oil saucepan, saute first the carrots, then at 3 minute
2 carrots, peeled, washed and cut into rounds intervals, add the turnips, then the fennel, and finally
2 turnips, peeled, washed and cut into rounds
2 zucchini (courgettes), washed and cut into the zucchini. Add the thyme and bay leaf, and leave
rounds to simmer for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time.
1 sprig thyme While the vegetables are simmering, remove the
1 bay leaf fish from the refrigerator. Remove it from its
Salt paper, and slice the sausage into four equal pieces.
Freshly ground pepper
Heat a non-stick pan with the remaining oil, and
One hour before the meal, place the slices of ham cook the tournedos for 5 minutes on each side.
on a piece of waxed (greaseproof) paper, overlap- Warm the sauce over low heat. While the sauce
ping slightly. Place the salmon on top, perpendic- is warming, garnish the plates with the vegetables,
ular to the ham, roll into a sausage lengthwise, place a tournedos on top, and cover each one with
using the paper to push it along, and seal the roll 2 tablespoons of sauce. This version of surf and turf
tightiy. Place in the refrigerator, where the whole will send you soaring. Accompany this dish with a
thing will meld. white Irouleguy.
Next make the Sauce Vierge and set aside at
room temperature until ready to serve.

82 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 CROUSTILLANT DE BARBUE, SAUCE CHAMPAGNE
Crispy Brill and Champagne Sauce (Catherine Guerraz, Chez Catherine)

3 medium carrots, peeled, cut in short lengths Prepare the vegetables in advance. Boil the carrots
3 small zucchini (courgettes), tips trimmed, cut in salted water for five minutes, add the zucchini
in short lengths and patty pans and cook for 5 minutes more. The
4 miniature patty pans or other haby squash
1 portion Champagne Sauce (see page 42) vegetables must remain firm. Drain, plunge into
2 lb (1 kg) brill, scaled and cut into 4 equal fil- iced water, drain again, and reserve. When you are
lets (substitute with rurbot) ready to serve, reheat them in a double boiler
Salt or microwave.
Freshly ground pepper Prepare the Champagne Sauce (see page 42) and
Coriander seeds
keep warm until ready to serve.
Fennel seeds
4 sheets phyllo pastry Preheat oven to 475 °F (240°C, gas mark 9).
1 egg yolk Sprinkle each piece of brill with salt, pepper, a good
2 tablespoons olive oil pinch of coriander and fennel and place on a sheet
Salad of pastry. Fold the pastry as if you were wrapping
Selection of dill, chervil, flat leaf parsley, and a package, and brush egg yolk over the edges to seal.
tarragon leaves In a pan over high heat, sear both sides of the
1 tablespoon olive oil packets in 2 tablespoons of the oil. Transfer to a
baking tray and bake in the oven for another
10 minutes.
To make the salad, toss the leaves with a pinch
of salt and the oil. To assemble, pour a small ladle-
ful of sauce onto each plate, place a packet topped
with salad on the sauce, surround with reheated
vegetables, and serve immediately. This dish is as
attractive as it is tasty! Accompany with a white
Chateauneuf-du-pape.

84 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 PAVE DE TURBOT ROTI AUX BLETTES,
SAUCE VIN ROUGE
Roast Steaks ofTurbot with Swiss Chard and Red Wine Sauce
(Andre Signoret, Le Train Bleu)

2 lb (1 kg) swiss chard While the stalks are cooking (this is called au
Juice of 1 lemon blanc in classical French cuisine), prepare the Red
1 tablespoon all-purpose (plain) flour Wine Sauce (see page 43). Preheat oven to 360 °F
2 tablespoons olive oil
(180°C, gas mark 4). In a non-stick, ovenproof pan,
1 tablespoon rock salt
1 portion Red Wine Sauce (page 43) heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, half of the but-
l 3 / 4 tablespoons butter ter, the thyme, bay leaf, and the unpeeled garlic.
1 sprig thyme Place the four potato slices in the pan and top each
1 bay leaf slice with a piece of turbot, flesh side down. Cook
2 cloves garlic, unpeeled gently for 10 minutes over medium heat, then trans-
4 Turbot steaks, 8 oz (250 g) each, with skin
intact, seasoned with salt and pepper fer to the oven and bake for a further 10 minutes.
1 large fim potato, peeled, 4 thin slices cut from While the fish is baking, reheat the stalks and
the center (discard the rest of the potato) greens in the remaining butter over high heat, stir-
1 small bunch chives ring often. Remove from heat and add 2 tablespoons
A few basil leaves or a few sprigs of chervil
chopped chives, basil or chervil.Serve the turbot
About an hour before serving, carefully wash the steaks, with the potato on top, in the middle of the
swiss chard, separate the leaves from the stalks, plate, flanked on one side with chard, and on the other
chop the leaves (discarding any that are too tough), with sauce. Accompany with a red Bouzy or Sancerre.
and set aside. Trim the stalks of their tough outer
fibers, and cut into lV 2 -in (4-cm) lengths. In a
saucepan, add the lemon juice, the flour dissolved
in a little cold water, 1 tablespoon of the oil, 1 ta-
blespoon rock salt, and enough water to cover the
stalks. Bring to aboil, add the stalks, boil for 15 min-
utes. Drain. Set aside.

86 FISH A N D S E A F O O D
 CABIIXAUD AUX EPICES, EPINARDS AU BASILIC
Spiced Cod with Spinach and Basil (Tsukasa Fukuyama, ALMLe Bistrot)

2 lb (1 kg) spinach, preferably small leaves Coat one side (the flesh side if you have kept the
1/3 cup (100 ml) veal fond skin) of the cod with the remaining spice mixture
Spice mixture comprising 1 tablespoon ground and add a few grinds of pepper. Pour half the oil into
cinnamon, 1/2 tablespoon Madras (medium
hot) curry powder, and 1/4 tablespoon celery a non-stick pan and cook the cod over high heat,
salt 2 minutes spice side down, then 4 minutes on the
4 cod steaks, about 5 oz (160 g) each, skin intact other side.
or removed Meanwhile, over medium heat, heat the butter
6 tablespoons olive oil in a wide saucepan until it turns deep gold (this is
1 lump hutter
A dozen or so basil leaves, shredded by hand noisette butter). Toss the spinach in the butter and
Rock salt and table salt cook until all the water it releases has evaporated.
Mignonette peppercorns and freshly ground Season with salt and pepper, and mix in the
pepper basil leaves.
1 small bunch chives Garnish each plate with spinach, place a cod
Trim and carefully wash and dry the spinach (see steak, spice side up, on the spinach and surround
page 56) in advance. Everything else can be done with sauce. Drizzle the remaining oil over the sauce,
in a flash, just before serving. in droplets like pearls, add a pinch of mignonette, a
To make the sauce, heat the veal fond and a line of rock salt, and another of chives. Enjoy!
small pinch of the spice mixture, and reduce by half Accompany with a white Beaujolais or a Coteax-
over low heat. Set aside. d'Aix vieilles vignes.

88 FISH A N D S E A F O O D
 PAVE DE CABIIXAUD ROTI A UAIL DOUX
ET SON GRATIN
Roast Cod with Sweet Garlic and Gratin
(Patrick Rayer, La Rotisserie du Beaujolais)

3 bulbs garlic largely overlapping in a single layer, finishing with

8 oz (250 g) goose fat or 1 cup (250 ml) the last slice at the center of the "flower." Season
peanut (groundnut) oil again, scatter another 2 tablespoons butter (cut into
4 cod steaks,61/2oz (200 g) each, with skin
intact, seasoned with salt and pepper small pieces), and bake until golden brown, about
4 slightly floury potatoes (such as bintjes), 10 to 15 minutes.
peeled, washed and wiped, very thinly Brush a non-stick baking tray with olive oil, and
sliced using a mandolin place the cod on the tray, skin side down. When the
6 tablespoons butter potatoes are just about done, place the tray of cod
1 chicken bouillon cube
3 over a high flame for 2 minutes. Remove the
/4 cup (200 ml) water
2 tablespoons olive oil potatoes from the oven, and place the cod in the
Salt center of the oven, turning the temperature up to
Freshly ground pepper maximum and roasting for 10 minutes.
Start with the garlic, which must be prepared in When the cod steaks are done, transfer them, to a
advance (a day before serving, if possible). Open the dish and keep warm, together with the potato
bulbs of garlic, delicately separating the cloves with- gratins, in the oven, switched off with the door
out detaching them from the base. Place in a snug- propped open. Pour the stock into the roasting pan
gly fitted saucepan, cover with goose fat or oil, and to deglaze, scraping gently with a spatula, and reduce
cook over low heat for 30 minutes. The fat should by half over high heat. Off the heat, add the remaining
barely simmer. Any hotter, and your sweet garlic 2 tablespoons butter, cut into chunks, with a whisk.
will become charred garlic. Leave to cool in the Now take the garlic out of the fat in which it has
saucepan at room temperature for up to 24 hours. been resting, and reheat for 3 minutes in a microwave.
Meanwhile, make the stock with the chicken Alternatively, reheat gently in the oil, then drain.
bouillon cube and 3/4 cup (200 ml) water. Set aside. These aromatic garlic cloves will be used as garnish.
Preheat oven to 400 °F (200°C, gas mark 6). To assemble, unmold the gratins in the middle of each
Butter 4 individual baking dishes with 2 tablespoons plate, place a steak, skin side up on the gratins, pour
butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add the a ring of sauce around and garnish with garlic cloves.
potato slices in layers like the petals of a daisy, Accompany with a Chablis or a Saint-Veran.

90 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 GALETTES DE BRANDADE DE MORUE,
COMFOTEE DE TOMATES
Salt Cod Fishcakes with Tomato Compote (Flora Mikula, Les Olivades)

Salt cod requires pre-soaking, so you must start the day of the meal, place potatoes in a stockpot with
preparing this recipe two days in advance. the cod, 1 bouquet garni, and half the garlic bulb.
Cover with cold water, bring to a simmer, and poach
2 lb (1 kg) salt cod, cut into pieces for 15 minutes, without any boiling whatsoever. Drain
3 medium potatoes (such as bintjes), peeled,
washed and cut into thin slices the stockpot, discarding the bouquet garni and garlic.
2 bouquets garnis (each made of 3 stalks Check the cod for any remaining bones, then shred
parsley, 1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf) the fish into a food processor, and add the potatoes.
1 plump bulb garlic, split in two, one half left Get two small saucepans ready on the oven. In
whole, one half separated into cloves,
peeled, finely chop 5 cloves and thinly slice one pan place chopped garlic and 3 / 4 cup olive oil;
3 cloves (keep separate) in the other pan pour the cream. Heat both pans and,
3
/4 cup (200 ml) olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons as soon as they boil, switch on the processor, and add
extra the oil and the cream a little at a time, alternating
3
/4 cup (200 ml) heavy (double) cream between the two. The mixture should be thick but
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
creamy. Correct seasoning with salt and pepper,
2 lb (1 kg) tomatoes on the vine, peeled,
seeded and chopped then set aside. Saute sliced garlic and onion in
1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon of oil, then add tomatoes (see page 33),
2 tablespoons black olives, from Nice if you 1 bouquet garni, sugar, and salt to taste. Cook for 30
can get them, pitted and chopped mins over medium heat, stirring from time to time,
Salt
then add the olives.
Freshly ground pepper
Meanwhile, prepare a salad by combining leaves,
Salad salt, pepper and lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons olive
Assorted chervil, tarragon, and dill leaves oil. When the tomato compote in done, take the cod
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablspoons olive oil mixture and shape into 8 thick patties. Brown them
in remaining 1 tablespoon of oil on both sides, but
Two days before serving, soak the salt cod in cold don't rush things. To assemble, garnish each plate with
water, changing the water frequently. Remove the tomato compote, top with fishcakes, and surround
skin and bones (which is very easy after soaking). On with a ring of salad. Accompany with a Bandol rose.

92 FISH AND SEAFOOD

 SUPREME DE VOLAILLE EN CROUTE DE NOIX
All ROMARIN
Chicken Breasts in a Walnut and Rosemary Crust
(Tsukasa Fukuyama, ALMLe Bistrot)

4 free-range chicken breasts, with skin Prepare noisette butter (see page 74) using the
Salt remaining butter. Reheat the vegetables.
Freshly ground pepper Place a drained breast on each plate, sprinkle
Scant 1/2 cup (50 g) all-purpose (plain) flour
1/3 cup (100 ml) peanut oil with walnuts and a couple of pinches of rosemary,
1/2 cup (100 g) butter pour on a drizzle of noisette butter, and garnish with
1/3 cup (40 g) chopped walnuts a side vegetable of your choice. Accompany with a
8 sprigs rosemary, chopped white Burgundy.
Side vegetables
2 bunches of asparagus Helpful hints: An alternative side vegetable to the
11/2 tablespoons butter asparagus is cabbage and juniper berries. Discard
Salt the tough outer leaves of 1 green cabbage, delicately
remove the inner leaves from the tender heart
First prepare the side vegetables. If using asparagus
and blanche them in a large quantity of water
(see Helpful hint for alternative side vegetables),
salted with rock salt for about 3 minutes. Drain
discard the tough end of the stalk, cut into pieces
thoroughly. Before serving, make a noisette butter
and boil in salted water for 3 to 5 minutes, de-
(see page 78) from 1/4 cup (50 g) butter, then
pending on size. Drain, plunge in iced water, and
reheat the cabbage in it and season with 1 table-
drain again. When you are ready to serve, toss them
spoon crushed juniper berries.
in hot butter over low heat.
Rub the chicken breasts with salt and pepper,
then coat in flour, shaking off any excess. In a
skillet, heat oil and half of the butter over
medium heat until the mixture foams. Add chicken
and cook 5 minutes, skin side down, until golden,
then turn over and cook a further 3 minutes. Cover,
remove from heat and set aside 5 minutes.

94 MEAT AND POULTRY

 MAGRET DE CANARD, FOINTES DASPERGES AU JUS
Duck Breast and Asparagus Tips (Benott Chagny, ALMLe Bistrot)

2 bunches of medium-sized green asparagus, say you are "feeding" the meat.) When the skin
tough stalk ends discarded, trimmed to the becomes crisp (about 10 minutes), add 3 tablespoons
same length boiling water, turn the breasts over, and cook
2 duck breasts, preferably from fattened ducks
from southwest France briefly. Remove from pan and drain on a wire rack
Quatre-epices (a classical spice mix, usually a and allow the meat to rest for as long as it cooked:
blend of nutmeg, ginger, cloves, and white a further 10 minutes. Doing so will ensure that the
pepper) duck is incredibly tender.
1 teaspoon peanut oil
Heat a broiler (grill). Discard all but 3 tablespoons
1/3 cup (100 ml) veal fond
11/2 tablespoons butter fat from the pan. Add the veal fond, and gently
1/3 cup (30 g) parmesan detach the cooked-on juices at the bottom of the pan
Rock salt and table salt and reduce until slightly syrupy, season with salt
Pepper and pepper and strain through a chinois or sieve
Boil asparagus in water that has been generously into a small saucepan. Add half the butter, whisk
salted with rock salt for about 5 minutes. Test and hold over the lowest heat possible.
for doneness by pricking the thickest part of a In another pan, roll the asparagus in the rest of
stalk with a toothpick. It should enter easily and the butter and reheat, but do not allow to color. Add
the texture should be both firm and tender. Cool 1 tablespoon of sauce and roll again.
asparagus under running water, pat dry and cut Slice the duck breasts and fan out on 4 dinner
in half. Set aside. plates, place under the broiler for 30 seconds to warm
Using the tip of a small paring knife, remove the through, garnish with the asparagus, either criss-
troublesome nerve that runs the length of the breast, crossed or in a circle around the meat, top with a
then score the skin making diamond shapes. Rub little sauce, add a few strips of parmesan, and serve.
the flesh with quatre-epices, salt, and pepper. Rub Accompany with a Madivan or Cahors.
the surface of a heavy pan with oil, place over
medium heat, and place the breasts skin side
down. The breasts will render sufficient fat. Keep
spooning the melted fat over the meat (the French

96 MEAT AND POULTRY

 CANARD ROTI, LEGUMES NOUVEAUX
Roast Duck with Baby Vegetables (Patrick Rayer, La Rotisserie du Beaujolais)

2 quarts (2 liters) water with a generous pinch the middle of the oven for 15 minutes. Reduce heat
of rock salt to 400 °F (200°C, gas mark 6) and bake for 10 min-
10 oz (300 g) snow peas (mange-tout), trimmed utes. Add the roughly chopped offal and bake for a
10 oz (300 g) very slender French beans,
further 10 minutes, then add carrot, onion, and
trimmed
10 oz (300 g) small new turnips, peeled (leaving garlic,a nd continue baking for 15 minutes (the duck
a little green stem) will have been in the oven for a total of 50 minutes).
10 oz (300 g) small new carrots, peeled (leaving Meanwhile, make a stock with 2 cups (500 ml)
a little green stem) boiling water and the chicken bouillon cube.
1 duck, about 5 lb (21/2 kg), with its offal Remove the duck, place on a dish and cover with
roughly chopped
2 large carrots, diced aluminum foil. The blood that was forced into the
2 large onions, peeled and diced center of the animal will now have time to spread
1 head of garlic, cut in half back through the meat, giving it the desired degree
1 chicken bouillon cube of tenderness. Reduce oven temperature to 325 °F
2 cups (500 ml) boiling water (160°C, gas mark 3).
2 tablespoons butter
Skim off the fat from the roasting pan with a
Rock salt and table salt
Mignonnette (coarsely cracked pepper) and spoon. Add the stock, scrape the cooked on bits with
freshly ground pepper a spatula, and reduce by slightly more than half, to a
At least 2 hours before mealtime, prepare the veg- scant 1 cup (200 ml). This will take about 15 minutes.
etables. Bring salted water to aboil, and cook the veg- In an ovenproof serving platter, arrange the
etables separately in the following order: snow peas, cooled vegetables, and season lightly. With a large
for 3 minutes after the water returns to aboil; green sharp knife, split the duck into two halves, along the
beans, 5 minutes; turnips, 7 minutes; carrots, 10 min- breast bone, and place on the bed of vegetables.
utes. Strain with a slotted spoon, refresh under cold Moisten with the sauce poured through a chinois or
running water and reserve separately. sieve, pressing slightly with a spoon to extract all
Preheat oven to 425 °F (220°C, gas mark 7). the flavor. Scatter the butter over the top, then place
Rub the duck inside and out with rock salt and in the oven for 10 minutes to heat through.
mignonnette, place in a roasting pan, and place in Accompany with a bottle of Vacqueyras.

98 M E A T A N D POULTRY
 PINTADE CONFITE ET HARICOTS VERTS
A LA TAFENADE
Guinea Fowl with Green Beans and Olive Paste (Philippe Tredgeu, Chez Casimir)

4 guinea fowl legs, skin on (substitute with the flame and the pot. All confits require long cook-
4 rabbit legs for Lapin Confit) ing over low heat.
4 cups (1 liter) olive oil + 1 tablespoon extra While the meat is cooking, trim the beans, and
2 lb (1 kg) green beans
cook in a little salted boiling water. Boil for just a
1 lump butter
Pepper from the mill few minutes, keeping them a little crisp. Drain and
cool under cool running water. Set aside.
Marinade
Make the tapenade with the olives, garlic,
2 lb (1 kg) rock salt
anchovies, a little freshly ground pepper, and
4 sprigs thyme
4 large cloves garlic 3 tablespoons oil (see page 52). In a blender or food
procesor, make a paste that is uniform and firm.
Tapenade Just before serving, heat 2 tablespoons water,
5 oz (150 g) black olives 1 tablespoon oil, and the butter in a saucepan. When
1 clove garlic it comes to a boil, whisk the mixture to form an
1 oz (30 g) anchovies (salt packed)
3 tablespoons olive oil emulsion. Add the beans, and cook just long
enough to reheat, stirring gently with a wodden
The day before, arrange the pieces of poultry in a spoon. Remove from the heat, add 2 tablespoons of
shallow dish in a single layer, place a sprig of thyme the tapenade and mix well.
and a crushed, unpeeled clove of garlic on each piece. Remove the meat from the oil with a slotted
Cover with a layer of rock salt, chill and marinate spoon and drain on paper towels. Quickly make a
overnight. bed of vegetables on each plate, top with a piece of
The next day, remove the meat from its marinade meat and serve. This dish is also delicous with green
and wipe thoroughly with a clean cloth. You will note peas, fava beans, or mashed potatoes. Whatever the
that the flesh has become slightly firm. accompaniment, do not forget the Tapenade. If you
Heat 4 cups oil to 175° F (80 °C) in a large shal- have some left over, spread it on toasted bread
low saucepan (the oil should barely be simmering). and enjoy. Accompany with a red Madiran, Cahors,
Add the meat and cook for 1 hour over constant low or Beam.
heat. You may need to add an isolating pad between

100 MEAT AND POULTRY

 STEAK TARTARE & FILET D U BOEUF
Steak Tartare (Andre. Signoret, he Train Bleu) L
Beef Fillet with Potato Gratin (JoelRtnty, Brasserie Mollard)

STEAK T A R T A R E (180 g) per person, from well-aged beef

2 lb (1 kg) waxy potatoes (such as bintje),
peeled, washed and patted dry, thinly sliced
l1/2 tt> (700 g) well-aged fillet of beef
3 cups (750 ml) fresh whole milk
4 egg yolks
1 egg, beaten
4 teaspoons hot mustard
l1/4 cups (175 g) grated cheese
4 teaspoons oil
Salt
Dash of Tabasco
Freshly ground pepper
Salt
Nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper
l 1/2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
4 tablespoons finely chopped pickles (gherkins) Preheat the oven to 360 °F (180°C, gas m a r k 4). Peel
4 tablespoons finely chopped flat leaf parsley
t h e garlic, split t h e clove a n d r u b it over a shallow
4 tablespoons of capers i n vinegar, drained
earthernware baking dish. Boil t h e milk a n d p o u r
O n a cutting board, finely m i n c e t h e m e a t with a over t h e potatoes in a mixing bowl. Add 4 oz
sharp knife (an electric m e a t grinder will only give (125 g) of t h e cheese, t h e b e a t e n egg, salt, pepper,
y o u m u s h ) . Pour into a mixing bowl. a n d grated n u t m e g to season. Mix well. Pour the
In a bowl, mix t h e yolks a n d m u s t a r d a n d a d d potatoes into t h e garlicky baking dish, cover with
t h e oil, drop b y drop, as if y o u w e r e m a k i n g m a y - t h e rest of t h e grated cheese a n d scatter with small
onnaise, t h e n season with a dash of Tabasco, a n d l u m p s of b u t t e r . Bake for at least 40 m i n u t e s until
a sprinkling of salt a n d pepper. Pour over t h e meat, t h e potatoes are t e n d e r a n d t h e top golden.
add t h e c h o p p e d c o n d i m e n t s a n d capers, a n d m i x J u s t before serving, place t h e steaks in a heavy
thoroughly. Serve with a g r e e n salad a n d a slightly skillet that h a s b e e n h e a t e d over high heat. Cook for
chilled Beaujolais. 3 m i n u t e s on each side—fillets should always b e
served a rosy m e d i u m rare. Season, t h e n place o n
BEEF FILLET W I T H P O T A T O GRATIN w a r m e d plates, a n garnish, if you want to respect tra-
dition, with a small b u n c h of cress. Serve t h e potato
1 clove garlic gratin separately. Serve this classical dish with a Saint-
4 thick slices fillet cut beef (see page 39), 6 oz
Emilion or a r e d Graves.

102 M E A T A N D POULTRY
 DAUBE All VIN ROUGE
Beef Simmered in Red Wine (Jean-Jacques Raffiani, Paris Main d'Or)

Make your daube a day in advance; it is much Pour half the oil into a large cast-iron pot, and heat
better reheated. until it begins to smoke. Brown the meat on all sides.
When there is no juice remaining in the pot, remove
4 tablespoons olive oil
the meat with a slotted spoon, and lower the heat.
2 lb (1 kg) beef short ribs, cut into 3 1/2-oz
(100-g) piececs Add onions, garlic, and bacon to the pot with the
3 large onions, peeled and chopped remaining oil, and saute, stirring from time to time.
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped When the onions are transparent, put the meat,
5 oz (150 g) smoked slab bacon, with its rind, and its juices, back into the pot, sprinkle with flour
cubed
and stir thoroughly. Add the tomato and the
1 tablespoon all-purpose (plain) flour
4 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and concentrate, wine, bouquet garni, a little rock salt,
chopped (see page 33) 10 peppercorns, and enough water to cove. Stir and
1 heaping tablespoon of tomato paste bring to a boil. Reduce heat to the minimum and
(concentrate) simmer, covered, for 3 hours, or even better, bake
1 bottle Corsican red wine, or failing that,
another tannic red wine in an oven heated to 300°F (150°C, gas mark 2) if
1 bouquet garni comprising 4 sprigs parsley, the lid is ovenproof (this is not always the case). Cool
1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf to room temperature and reserve.
Rock salt The next day, reheat the stew gently, 30 minutes
Black peppercorns over low heat, and serve with polenta or large pasta
shapes like macaroni. A bottle of Mercurey would
make a fine accompaniment.

104 MEAT AND POULTRY

 POT-AU-FEU DANS SA TRADITION
Traditional Pot~Au~Feu (Thierry Colas, Matty)

2 lb (1 kg) stewing beef, using 2 different cuts handful of rock salt, and about 10 peppercorns. Add
from the following list: shank, short ribs, cold water to cover by 2 in (5 cm), and bring to a
flank, or brisket
1 onion, peeled and studded with 1 clove boil. Remove the scum that rises to the surface with
2 cloves garlic, peeled a slotted spoon, then leave simmering for 3 hours.
1 bouquet garni comprising 4 or 5 sprigs of Add the vegetables and cook for a further 45 minutes.
parsley, 1 sprig thyme, 1 bay leaf Preheat oven to 400 ° F (200°C, gas mark 6). Place
Handful rock salt the marrow bones in a roasting pan, sprinkle with
10 peppercorns
4 small leeks, washed, most of the green rock salt and loose leaf thyme, add pepper and
trimmed off set aside.
4 turnips, peeled and washed Just before serving, remove 4 ladlesful of broth
4 carrots, peeled and washed to a saucepan (leaving the meat and vegetables to
4 firm potatoes (such as charlottes), peeled and
simmer, covered, in the remaining liquid). Bring to
washed
4 pieces of celery root (celeriac), approximately a boil, cook the pasta and serve in individual
half a bulb, washed bowls, with a little grated nutmeg if you like (even
4 marrow bone pieces, each cut to 2 in (5 cm) though Thierry Colas would not approve, but like
in length all questions of taste, this is a very personal matter!).
Fresh thyme
Pepper Just before sitting down to enjoy the stock, do not
31/2oz (100 g) vermicelli pasta forget to place the marrow bones into the oven for
Nutmeg 15 minutes.
Once you have cleared away the bowls, serve the
Garnish
drained vegetables and meats, along with the roasted
Rock salt
marrow, on a large platter. Pass around toasted
Small cornichon pickles or gherkins
Pickled onions bread for the marrow. Each diner helps him or her-
A selection of mustards and horseradish self to the garnishes and condiments. Served in this
manner, a pauper's dish becomes a dish fit for a king.
Four hours before the meal, place the meat in a
Accompany with a Morgon or a Julienas.
stock pot with the onion, garlic, bouquet garni, a

106 MEAT AND POULTRY

 HACHIS PARMENTIER
Fukuyama, A&MLe Bistrot)
French Shepherd's Pie (Tsukasa

11/2 lb (750 g) stewing beef (cheeks, shanks or butter, stir with a wooden spoon but do not overmix
brisket) or 2 lb (1 kg) oxtail (doing so will make it pasty), then add just enough
2 large onions, peeled and chopped milk to make the mash thick, but not compact.
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 stalk celery, peeled and chopped Drain the cooked meat over a saucepan, and
3 cloves garlic, peeled reserve the broth. Discard the vegetables and shred
1 sprig thyme the meat. Saute remaining onion in oil over low
1 bay leaf heat, then add the meat and a ladleful of broth to
1 clove keep the meat tender. Season with salt, pepper, and
11/2 lb (750 g) waxy potatoes (such as bintjes),
parsley and cook until all the broth has been
peeled and washed
3
/4 cup (150 g) butter, at room temperature absorbed. Meanwhile, over high heat, reduce the
2
/3 cup (150 ml) milk rest of the broth by half.
2 tablespoon peanut (groundnut) oil In a shallow baking dish, place a layer of mashed
1 small bunch flat leaf parsley potato, then the meat, then cover with the remaining
Rock salt and table salt potato. Brown under the broiler or grill for a few
Black peppercorns and pepper from the mill
minutes.
Place the meat in a stockpot, cover with boiling When you remove it from the oven, pour on the
water, and bring to a boil. Skim the scum that rises hot reduced broth. Traditionally, this masterpiece
to the top as the water boils, then add half the onion, of popular cooking is served with a plain green salad.
the chopped vegetables, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, Accompany with a red Loire Valley wine.
clove, and a dozen or so peppercorns. Leave to cook
at a low simmer for 3 hours, covered.
About 1 hour before the meat is done, place pota-
toes in a pot with some rock salt, cover with cold
water and bring to aboil. Boil 20 to 30 minutes, until
the potatoes can be pierced with the tip of a knife
without offering any resistance. Drain, put through
a food mill, and transfer to a bowl containing the

108 MEAT AND POULTRY

 TIAN P AGNEAU AUX OLIVES
Provencal Lamb and Olive Tian (Jean-Jacques Raffiam, Paris Main d'Or)

A tian is a shallow, round earthenware dish tradi- In a large skillet, heat half the oil until it starts to
tionally used in Provence. Like terrine for example, smoke then saute the meat. When it has browned
the same word describes both the dish itself and the evenly on all sides, remove with a slotted spoon to
vessel in which it is cooked. a shallow dish.
Lower the heat, add remaining oil to pan and
4 tablespoons olive oil soften the onions. Add the garlic, tomatoes, con-
3 lb(11/2kg) boneless shoulder of lamb, cut
into cubes about 2 oz (50 g) each centrate, bell pepper, bouquet garni, salt, and
3 large onions, peeled and sliced pepper. Mix well and simmer for 30 minutes
6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed until the sauce thickens, stirring from time to time.
4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and Preheat oven to 360 ° F (180°C, gas mark 4). Remove
roughly chopped (see page 33) sauce from heat. Stir in the olives, the meat, and all
1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrate)
the juices from the dish. Pour into a tian or other
1 green bell pepper (capsicum), cut into strips
1 bouquet garni comprising 3 sprigs parsley, baking dish, cover with stock and bake for11/2hours.
1 small stalk thyme, and 1 bay leaf Serve with potatoes boiled in salted water, and
Salt encourage each diner to mash the potato in the
Ground pepper sauce with the back of his or her fork. For a dish as
61/2 oz (200 g) green and black olives, pitted hardy and tasty as this, you can—just this once—
1 chicken stock cube mixed with 250 ml (1 cup) forgo what would generally be considered "good"
water table manners. Accompany with a Mercurey.

110 MEAT AND POULTRY

 TRAVERS DE PORCELET AU MIEL,
PUREE A LA CIVE
Honey-glazed Suckling Pig Ribs with Herbed Mashed Potato
(Thierry Colas, Marty)

11/2 lb (800 g) firm potatoes (such as The potatoes should be done by this point.
charlottes or BF 15s), peeled and washed Drain, return to the saucepan with the butter, mash
1/3 cup (100 ml) dark soy sauce with the back of a fork, add enough milk to reach
1/3 cup (100 ml) acacia honey
the desired consistency, neither too thick nor too
11/2 lb (800 g) rack of ribs from a suckling pig
1
/2 cup (100 g) butter, at room temperature runny. Keep warm in a double boiler.
1/3 cup (100 ml) milk, warm Now it should be the ribs' turn to be ready. Place
1 small bunch sprouted shallots or scallions on a platter, switch off the oven and keep warm,
(spring onions) using the residual heat to warm the dinner plates
1 chicken stock cube mixed with 250 ml
(1 cup) water as well. Use warm stock to lift off the baked-on pan
Rock salt juices, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to reduce, scrap-
ing gently with a spatula.
Place potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold
Chop the greens of the onions or shallots and mix
water, salt, and bring to a boil. Cook 20 to 30 min-
into the potatoes. Slice between each rib, place the
utes, until the tip of a knife meets no resistance.
ribs on one side of the plate, the mash on the other,
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 360 °F (180°C, gas
pour on the sauce and immediately serve this
mark 4). Mix the soy sauce and honey in a bowl
marvel of a dish, balanced between the Oriental and
then brush the mixture onto the ribs in a roasting
the Occidental, between invention and tradition.
pan. Place the meat in the oven for 10 to 15 min-
Accompany with a bottle of red Graves.
utes, basting every 2 minutes with the remaining
sauce. They should be glistening, shiny, and
caramelized.

112 MEAT A N D POULTRY

 COTE DE VEAU FOYOT, POMMES SAUTEES
'Toyots" Veal Chops with Sauteed Potatoes (Andre Signoret, he Train Bleu)

3 tablespoons butter very carefully from time to time, as they brown.

4 oz (125 g) white bread crumbs When the potatoes are done, add salt, pepper, and
4 oz (125 g) gruyere or other Swiss-type the chopped parsley.
cheese, grated
4 prime veal chops, hone in, about 8 oz (250 g) While the potaotes are cooking, start on the
each sauce, so that it will be ready at the same time. Boil
2 lb (1 kg) firm potatoes (such as BF 15s), the veal fond in a saucepan over medium heat until
peeled, washed and cut in very thin slices, reduced by half. Reduce the port in a separate pan
wiped with a cloth to remove starch
Salt until it becomes syrupy, then add the fond and
Freshly ground pepper reduce to scant 1 cup (220 ml). Finally, whisk in the
1 small bunch flat leaf parsley, washed, patted butter, bit by bit, to thicken.
dry and stems removed When the potatoes are half done, light the
6 tablespoons peanut (groundnut) oil broiler or grill. Season the veal chops, dust lightly
31/2 oz (100 g) all-purpose (plain) flour
with flour, shaking off any excess, and cook in a
Sauce heavy ovenproof skillet, in the remaining butter and
1 cup (250 ml) veal fond oil, about 7 minutes per side, over medium heat.
1 small glass port When you turn the meat over, place a l/2-m. (1-cm)
Scant 1 cup (190 g) butter slice of the Foyot mixture on each chop. Finish cook-
Several hours in advance or the night before, make ing in the pan, then grill in the oven for 5 minutes
the "Foyot" garnish by mixing together half the but- until brown.
ter, the breadcrumbs, and grated cheese. Place the Place a chop on each plate, with sauce to
mixture on a plate, and form a round shape, about one side, and the potatoes to the other, and savor
4 in (10 cm) across and \3/4 in (4 cm) high, and this sparkling jewel of bourgeoise cuisine. A good
reserve in the refrigerator. Saint-Estephe or other red Bordeaux would be a
In a large non-stick pan, melt 3 tablespoons of good choice of wine for accompanying this dish.
the butter and 4 tablespoons of the oil (or substitute
3l/2 oz/100 g goose fat, delicious!) and saute the pota-
toes over medium heat about 30 minutes, turning

114 M E A T AND P O U L T R Y
 ROGNONS DE VEAU BEAUGE ET LEUR PUREE
Beaujolais-style Calves Kidneys with Mashed Potato
(Patrick Payer, La Rotisserie du Beaujolais)

2 lb (1 kg) firm potatoes (such as BF 15s) Less than 30 minutes before sitting down to
2
/ 3 -l cup (150-250 ml) milk dinner, start the sauce. Saute the shallots in butter
2 large calves' kidneys, fat removed, cut into over low heat then add the wine and reduce over
cubes about 3/4-in (l 1 / 2 -cm) square
1 tablespoon goose fat or peanut oil high heat until there is only the equivalent of 2 tea-
1/2 cup (100 g) butter spoons of juice left in the pan. Add the fond, and
Rock salt and table salt when it boils, add the cream. Cook over low heat stir-
Freshly ground pepper ring often, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
Sauce Add the mustard and mix well.
4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped Now take care of the kidneys. Season them, then
1 teaspoon butter heat the oil or fat in a non-stick pan and fry the
3
/4 cup (200 ml) dry white wine (a Macon, kidneys over high heat no more than 5 minutes.
if available) Their centers should still be pink.
3
/4 cup (200 ml) veal fond Drain, wipe the pan gently with paper towel, then
2
/3 cup (150 ml) heavy (double) cream
1 heaped tablespoon Dijon mustard add the sauce to deglaze the pan, gently removing
the cooked on juice in the pan. Add the kidneys, stir
Forty-five minutes before the meal, prepare old- quickly and serve at once with the mashed potatoes.
fashioned mashed potatoes that will be the perfect Accompany with a Brouilly or a Regnie.
foil for your kidneys. Peel and wash the potatoes,
place in pan, cover with cold water and a little rock
salt. Bring to a boil, cook 30 minutes, then drain,
pass through a food mill into a mixing bowl
containing V^cup (100 g) butter. Mix with a whisk,
add just enough milk to reach the desired consis-
tency, neither too stiff nor too liquidy. Keep warm
over a double boiler.

116 MEAT AND POULTRY

 BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A LA VANILLE
ET AUX AGRUMES
Veal Stew Scented with Vanilla and Citrus Fruit (Stephane Baron, he Zephyr)

Prepare side vegetables of fresh spinach, steamed Meanwhile, wash the remaining lime, and add
leek or basmati rice during the cold season, beans its zest and juice to the creme fraiche; you will use
or peas in the spring or summer. it to finish the sauce.
When the stew is ready, remove the meat with
2 lb (1 kg) slighty fatty cuts of veal (breast, a slotted spoon and place in a large saucepan. Strain
flank, rump) cubed, briefly blanched then
rinsed under cold running water the cooking bouillon through a chinois or sieve,
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped scrape the vanilla seeds from the bean and discard
1 leek, washed and finely chopped the solids. Reserve 2 cups (500 ml) bouillon, pour
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped the rest over the meat and hold over medium heat.
1 bouquet garni comprising 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig
In another pan, melt the butter over low heat
thyme, and 3 sprigs parsley
3 limes until it begins to sizzle, add the flour, stirring o
1 plump vanilla bean ccasionally, for about 5 minutes, keeping the heat
1 tablespoon butter low so that it does not brown (this is called a
2 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour white roux). Add the reserved 2 cups bouillon and
2 pink grapefruits, carefully peeled, membrane continue to cook, stirring until the liquid thickens,
removed, to garnish
20 g creme fraiche, or failing that heavy (dou- like custard sauce. Correct the seasoning, remove
ble) cream from heat and add the lime-flavored cream. Stir well.
Rock salt, table salt, white peppercorns, To assemble, plate the vegetables first, topped
freshly ground pepper with drained meat, cover with the sauce and
Side vegetables of your choice
decorate with an odd number of grapefruit slices
Place onions, carrot, and leek in a pot with the (which is much more attractive). Enjoy this dish
bouquet garni, meat, 2 of the limes cut in half, the split with a glass of Pouilly Fume.
vanilla bean, a sprinkling of rock salt, and a few
peppercorns. Cover with cold water, bring to a boil,
then simmer covered for l1/2hours.

118 MEAT A N D POULTRY

 POIRES ROTIES AU
CARAMEL DE FRUITS SECS
Roast Pears with Nut Caramel Sauce (Flora Mikula, Les Olivades)

4 pears (such as doyenne-du-comice, bewrre- following the manufacturer's instructions. If you

Hardy or other juicy pears), peeled do not have an ice cream maker, buy vanilla or
3 cinnamon sticks cinnamon ice cream of excellent quality.
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
61/2 oz (200 g) acacia honey Preheat oven to 410°F (210°C, gas mark 61/2).
Juice of 1 lemon Place the pears in a deep baking pan with the
61/2 oz (200 g) sugar cinnamon and the vanilla bean. Pour the honey
2 cups (500 ml) heavy (double) cream and lemon juice over the pears, add boiling water
8 oz (250 g) nuts (such as almonds, hazelnuts, to half the height of the baking dish and bake for
walnuts, and pistachios)
20 to 30 minutes. The pears should be cooked but
Orange Flower Ice Cream firm. Turn off oven, leaving the pears inside.
1 cup (250 ml) milk Just before serving, pour the sugar into a large
1 cup (250 ml) heavy (double) cream saucepan and add a little water. Over high heat, melt
31/2 oz (100 g) sugar
the sugar until you obtain a golden brown caramel.
5 egg yolks
V3 cup (100 ml) orange flower water While making the caramel, bring the cream to
a boil. When the caramel is ready, add the hot
Start by making the orange flower ice cream. Heat cream, in small batches, stirring vigorously. Don't
the milk and the cream but remove from heat as worry about the boiling witches' cauldron, it looks
soon as it comes to a boil. Beat the sugar and egg alarming but will soon die down. Add the nuts
yolks until the mixture thickens and becomes and cook 5 minutes at a simmer.
pale. Gradually add the warm milk and cream, Drain the pears, place in soup plates, cover
whisk thoroughly then pour the mixture back into with nut sauce and serve this voluptuous dessert
the saucepan, heat over low heat, stirring constantly with the ice cream. Accompany with a glass of
with a wooden spoon until thickened like custard. Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
If the cream curdles, pour it into a blender or
liquidizer and process until smooth. Remove from
heat and cool. Mix the orange flower water into the
cooled cream, and pour into your ice cream maker,

120 DESSERTS
 FINANCIER TIEDE AUX POIRES,
CREME A LA CHICOREE
Warm Pear Financier Cakes with Chicory Custard (Christian Etchebest, he Troquet)

4 cups (1 liter) water have any baking rings, substitute with 4 small
l 3 / 4 cups (400 g) sugar round non-stick pans, no larger than 4-in (10-cm)
3 tender-fleshed pears (such as doyenne-du- in diameter.
comice, beurre-Haxdy or Williams), peeled
2 Drain the pears. Cut each one into 8 wedges,
/3 cup (135 g) hutter
3 egg whites remove the core, and arrange 6 slices in a flower
1
/2 cup (75 g) ground almonds on top of each financier. Place into the oven for
2
/3 cup (75 g) flour 12 minutes and, 2 minutes before they are done,
1 tablespoon confectioners' (icing) sugar sprinkle with confectioners' (icing) sugar, which
3
/4 cup (200 ml) heavy (double) cream, will make the cakes exquisitely golden. Remove
refrigerated
1 tablespoon liquid chicory (substitute with the circles or unmold, and place in the center of
strong coffee) a dessert plate, pear side up.
Place the cream, the bowl and beaters for whipping At the last minute, whip the cream (see page
the cream in the refrigerator. 37), add the remaining 2 teaspoons sugar halfway
In a saucepan, bring 1 liter of water to aboil with through and the chicory, place a large dollop
scant 1 cup (200 g) of the sugar. Drop the pears into (use a soup spoon rinsed under hot water) on
the boiling syrup. Simmer 15 minutes, then leave each cake. Serve immediately with a glass of
to cool in the syrup. sweet Jurangon.
Half an hour before mealtime, give your
attention to the financiers, which will be served
warm. Preheat the oven to 400 ° F (200°C, gas mark
6). Butter a non-stick baking sheet with l/2 table-
spoon butter. Melt the rest of the butter over very
low heat. In a bowl, lightly whip the egg whites
with a hand whisk, add 3/4cup (180 g) of the sugar,
ground almonds, flour, and finally the melted
butter. Place four 3-in (8-cm) baking rings on the
baking sheet and fill with the batter. If you don't

122 DESSERTS
 PAIN PERDU AUX POMMES
Apple Bread Puddding (Philippe Tredgeu, Chez Casimir)

3 eggs When you are ready to serve the dessert, heat

1 cup (250 ml) milk the butter over medium heat until it sizzles (the
3
/4 cup (175 g) sugar French say it "sings"). Pick up the slices of bread
Seeds of 1 vanilla bean (see Helpful hint)
4 thick slices sourdough bread, stale or fresh with a slotted spatula, drain slightly, and cook 3 to
2 large apples, juicy and flavorful (such as el- 4 minutes on each side, until golden.
stars or goldens) Place the bread in the center of the dessert
1
/2 cup (100 g) unsalted butter plates and discard any remaining butter. Arrange
2 tablespoons creme fraiche the apple slices on the bread. Place the baking
In a bowl whisk together eggs, milk, l/3 cup (75 g) dish over high heat, add the cream and scrape
of the sugar, and the vanilla seeds. Place the slices gently with a wooden spoon to detach all the baked
of bread in one layer, in a shallow dish into which on juices. Stir well and pour a little sauce around
they fit snugly then cover with the liquid. Leave the each pudding.
bread to soak for about 2 hours. Enjoy this marvelous dessert immediately. It
One hour before mealtime, preheat oven to has satisfied the poor since time immemorial,
300 °F (150°C, gas mark 2). Wash, dry, and cut the even if it is usually served, as you can well
apples into 8 slices, remove the core but not the imagine, in a m u c h simpler form. Accompany
skin and place the 16 wedges in a baking dish that with a glass of C6teaux-du-Layon.
can also be heated over a flame. Pour the rest of
the sugar into a small saucepan, and wet with a few Helpful hints: Remove the seeds of the vanilla bean
spoonfuls of water. Cook over high heat, until it by splitting it lengthways and scraping out the seeds
forms a golden caramel. Pour the boiling caramel with the side of a knife. Keep the husk of the bean
over the apples then bake for 20 minutes. Turn the in a jar of sugar to flavor it, if desired. Accompany
slices over three times, very carefully, so as not to with a glass of C6teaux-du-Layon.
break them. Watch t h e m closely. They should
look candied b u t not burnt. Add a little water
during cooking, if needed. Remove the dish from
the oven and leave to cool to room temperature.

124 DESSERTS
 CHAUD-FROID DE FRUITS ROUGES PARFUME
Summer Fruit Gratin (Stet iane Baron, Le Zephyr)

4 egg yolks An hour before sitting down to dinner, make the

Scant V2 cup (100 g) sugar sabayon. You have no idea how easy it is! Place the
4 tablespoons sweet white wine (substitute cream, the bowl and beaters for the whipped
with water)
Your choice of flavoring: a pinch of dried ia- cream in the refrigerator. Partially fill the sink with
vander flowers, or a few drops of lavender cold water and ice cubes. In the non-reactive top of
extract; or 1 teaspoon rose flower water or a double-boiler over simmering water, beat the
berry flavored spirits; or the seeds from a
vanilla bean yolks, sugar, and wine (or water) with a whisk or
2 cups (500 ml) heavy (double) cream, electric beaters. The result will be a pale mousse,
refrigerated airy and compact at the same time. Remove from
1
/2 cup (50 g) + 1 tablespoon confectioners' the heat as soon as it has thickened, move to the
(icing) sugar
sink and continue beating until completely cooled.
1 kg (500 g) summer berries, preferably 8 oz
(250 g) strawberries, 4 oz (125 g) raspber- Add the flavor of your choice. Whip the cream (see
ries, blackberries or blueberries, and 4 oz page 37), adding the confectioners' sugar when it
(125 g) red or black currants starts to form peaks. Gently fold it into the sabayon
and reserve in the refrigerator.
Wash and dry the berries then arrange in four
ovenproof soup plates or other shallow individual
baking dishes. Just before serving, light the broiler
(grill). Pour the sabayon over the berries, sprinkle
with the remaining 1 tablespoon confectioners'
sugar, then place in oven just a few instants to
brown. Serve immediately.
This dessert is even tastier with an acidic sorbet,
like apricot or lemon, which will provide a fine
contrast of flavor. Accompany with a glass of
Gewurztraminer or a late harvest Riesling.

126 DESSERTS
 S O U P E DE F R A I S E S / mixture begins to boil, remove from heat. In a
GLACE A U X H E R B E S mixing bowl, heat yolks and sugar until they become
pale and thick. Gradually add the slightly cooled
Strawberry Soup with Herb Ice Cream
creamy milk, stirring constantly with a wooden
(Catherine Guerraz, Chez Catherine)
spoon. Return to saucepan over low heat, still
This dessert is best prepared the night before, or the stirring, and cook until thick enough to coat the back
morning of the dinner. Serves 6 of the spoon (don't worry if the mixture curdles).
Process in a blender or liquidizer until smooth.
2 cups (500 ml) red wine, preferably a Remove from heat, add the herbs, and leave to cool.
Bordeaux Then pour into an ice cream maker, and follow the
3
/4 cup (160 g) sugar
6 green peppercorns manufacturer's instructions. If you do not have an
1 tea bag ie cream maker, b u y a good vanilla ice cream. In
2 lb (1 kg) strawberries, washed and stemmed either case, remember to move the ice cream from
the freezer to the refrigerator w h e n sitting down to
Ice cream
dinner, so that it will reach the ideal consistency
V2 cup (250 ml) milk
l by serving time.
/2 cup (250 ml) heavy (double) cream
8 egg yolks (use the whites to make a panna N o t h i n g could b e s i m p l e r t h a n t h e soup,
cotta on page 132) b u t it does r e q u i r e a little bit of t i m e . H e a t
Scant 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar t h e w i n e w i t h t h e sugar, p e p p e r , a n d tea bag.
8 sprigs of basil, chervil, and dill, washed and
Simmer until reduced and slightly syrupy, about
patted dry
30 m i n u t e s .
Start w i t h t h e ice Add t h e s t r a w b e r r i e s to t h e s y r u p a n d
cream. Reserve a s i m m e r for 3 minutes. Discard the tea bag, pour
few herb leaves t h e s o u p i n t o a b o w l a n d leave to cool, t h e n
to garnish then chill in t h e refrigerator u n t i l serving. W h e n
place the rest ready, s e r v e t h e soup in s o u p plates, top w i t h
in the freezer a scoop of ice c r e a m ( s h a p e d w i t h a spoon
for 20 m i n - dipped in hot water). Decorate this very old-fash-
u t e s before ioned dessert with the reserved herbs. A chilled
chopping m u s c a t along side w o u l d b e n o t h i n g less t h a n
finely. Heat the enchanting.
milk a n d t h e
cream in a
saucepan. As soon as the

128 DESSERTS
 t h e fruits, r e m o v e t h e s t e m s b u t n o t t h e pits
(stones) from t h e cherries, or they will lose their
juice, a n d their flavor, during cooking. For t h e
apricots, split t h e m in half a n d discard the pit.
Place the fruit in the buttered dish, stir the batter
that h a d b e e n resting, p o u r over t h e fruit a n d
b a k e for 45 minutes. Half way through, cut the
r e m a i n i n g b u t t e r into small pieces a n d place
evenly over the top, t h e n sprinkle with the fine
sugar. T h i s will m a k e it e v e n m o r e golden,
crisp a n d appetizing. Enjoy this traditional cake,
still w a r m from the oven. You will never tire of it,
served with a glass of chilled dry white wine.

C L A F O U T I S A U X F R U I T S D'ETE MELI-MELO D ' A G R U M E S

Summer Fruit Clafoutis (Andre Signoret, Le Train Bleu) Citrus Tutti Frutti
(Benoit Chagny, A & M L e Bistrot)
Scant 1/2 cup (50 g) flour
1/2cup (60 g) granulated sugar and ltable- 5 oranges
spoon superfine (caster) sugar Seeds of 2 vanilla beans (see page 126)
3 eggs A few thyme buds
1 tablespoon olive oil A few sprigs of mint
2 cups (500 ml) whole milk 3 pink grapefruit
1 small glass kirsch
Extract the juice of 1 orange. Wash the other 4 and
1/3 cup (60 g) butter
1 lb (500 g) very ripe fruit (such as apricots remove all of their zest with a zester. Mix the zests,
from the Roussillon or plump black cherries) juice, vanilla seeds, thyme, and a few finely chopped
mint leaves.
Make the batter 1 hour before cooking as it needs
With a sharp paring knife, remove the peel and
time to rest. In a mixing bowl, mix flour and gran-
m e m b r a n e from t h e o r a n g e s a n d grapefruit,
ulated sugar then, using a wooden spoon, very thor-
carefully separating into sections. Add the extra
oughly mix in the eggs, oil, and milk in thirds, and
juices to the seasoned mixure. Arrange the fruit
the kirsch. Set aside (at kitchen room temperature).
attractively in shallow bowls, cover with juice
One h o u r later, butter a 2-in (5-cm) high earth-
a n d serve v e r y well chilled, after leaving it to
enware dish with half the butter and preheat the
marinate in the refrigerator.
oven to 360° F (180° C, gas m a r k 4). Wash a n d dry

DESSERTS 129
 If you have Citrus sorbet
some vanilla ice Juice of 1 large yellow grapefruit
cream, a small Juice of 2 large oranges
scoop on top of Juice of 3 or 4 plump lemons
Scant 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
each bowl would 1
/3 cup (100 ml) water
be very pretty,
topped with half Start by making the citrus sorbet. Bring the juices,
a vanilla b e a n sugar, and water to a boil. Cool, and place in an ice
and garnished cream maker, following the manufacturers' instruc-
with a little mint. tions. If you do not have an ice cream maker, buy
Almond tuiles (see an orange, grapefruit, or lemon sorbet. Place the
page 130) and a ginger in a saucepan. Add the sugar and water, bring
Corsican muscat will to a rolling boil, remove from heat and infuse 10 min-
bring you to perfection. utes, then strain and chill the syrup. Combine cubed
fruit and syrup and marinate in the refrigerator. Serve
in shallow dishes with a scoop of ice cream in the mid-
MINESTRONE DE FRUITS EXOTIQUES dle of the "minestrone." The taste and lightness are
A U GINGEMBRE perfect. A late harvest Gewur2taaminer will only add
Tropical Fruit Minestrone with Ginger to your pleasure.
(Patrice Contrand, Marty)
Prepare this dessert the night before or in the
morning for an evening meal.

1 small piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

2/3 cup (150 g) sugar
2 cups (500 ml) water
1 small Victoria (or other) pineapple (leaves
on top should detach easily when ripe),
peeled and cut into small cubes
2 very ripe kiwis, peeled and cut into small
cubes
1 very ripe but firm mango, peeled and cut
into small cubes

130 DESSERTS
 TARTE FINE CHAUDE AUX POMMES An hour or so before serving the dessert,
preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C, gas mark 6).
Hot Apple Tartlets (Andre Cellier, Brasserie Mollard)
Roll out the pastry as thinly as possible on a dry,
4 plump reinette apples, peeled, quartered clean work surface. Using a dessert plate as a
and cored, each quarter cut in two (to yield guide, cut out 4 bases with a sharp paring knife.
32 chunks) Cover a baking sheet with baking parchment,
2
/3 cup (150 g) sugar
1 package best quality puff pastry, about place the pastry bases on it, cover each one
8-10 oz (250-300 g) with a thin layer of apple sauce. Peel the goldens
4 golden apples and cut each in half. Flat side down, cut each
1
/4 cup (50 g) butter half into very thin slices and arrange them in
Place the 32 reinette apple chunks in a saucepan a flower pattern on each tart. Spinkle with
with scant l/2 cup (100 g) of the sugar and a little the rest of the sugar and the butter. Bake for
water. Cook the apples until they form a thick about 20 minutes, until the tops and the pastry
apple sauce, mashing any large lumps with the are golden. Serve this marvelous classic hot,
back of a fork. accompanied by a sweet wine. With a scoop
of vanilla ice cream, it becomes a tart a la mode
but, to some, doing so makes it too rich.

DESSERTS 131
 LATTE COTTO ET SES TUILES AUX AMANDES
Panna Cotta and Almond Wafers Philippe Tredgeu, Chez Casimir)

1V2 cups (375 ml) whole milk should be set, but the cream should still jiggle
1
/2 cup (125 g) heavy (double) cream when shaken gently. Cool to room temperature.
Scant 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar Just before sitting down to dinner, make the
Grated zest of 2 lemons or limes
tuiles. (They can actually be made up to two days
Seeds of 1 vanilla bean (see Helpful hint,
page 126) in advance, but are infinitely better fresh.) Preheat
5 egg whites, lightly whisked the oven to 500 °F (250°C, gas mark 10). If you do
not have a non-stick baking sheet, wipe yours with
Wafers
a little oil on a paper towel. Drop 1 teaspoonful of
Grated zest and juice of 1 orange
V3 cup (75 g) butter, melted batter on sheet, flatten slightly with the back of the
1
/2 cup (50 g) flour, sifted spoon, and continue, leaving space between to
l
/2 cup (75 g) blanched almonds, chopped allow for spreading. Slip tray into the oven for
Scant 2/3 cup (125 g) sugar 4 to 5 minutes until the tuiles are golden.
Remove and allow to cool 1 minute, lift each
A few hours before mealtime, make the batter for
tuile with a spatula and quickly place it on any
the tuiles (wafers). In a mixing bowl, combine the
cylindrical object at hand (bottle, rolling pin) to
orange zest and juice, butter, flour, almonds, and
form a curved shape. The contrast of creaminess
sugar. Mix thoroughly then reserve in the refriger-
and crispiness is nothing but suave. Try accom-
ator to firm up somewhat.
panying this dessert with a glass of Champagne.
Preheat oven to 250 °F (120°C, gas mark 1/2).
In a saucepan, with a wooden spoon, mix
together milk, cream, sugar, lemon or lime zests,
and vanilla seeds. Bring to a boil, then remove
from heat and cool for 15 minutes. Pour the
mixture through a sieve or chinois, onto the
whisked egg. Mix well, strain again, and pour into
4 shallow ceramic or earthenware ramekins or
ovenproof soup plates that hold about 1 cup
(250 ml) liquid. Bake for 30 to 45 mintues. They

132 DESSERTS
 POTS VANIIXE ET CHOCOLAT, MADELEINES A I^VNIS
Vanilla and Chocolate Creams with Anise Madeleines
(Christian Etchebest, he Troquet)

VanUJa and Chocolate Creams with the remaining ingredients, replacing the vanilla
4 cups (1 liter) whole milk with the cocoa powder.
2 whole eggs, plus 8 yolks (10 eggs total) Heat the oven to 200 ° F (100°C, gas mark1/2), or
Scant 1 cup (200 g) sugar
as close as you can get. Place the pots in abaking pan,
1 vanilla bean from Tahiti, or 2 standard
pour hot water around them, and bake for 45 min-
"bourbon" vanilla beans
1
/4 cup (25 g) unsweetened cocoa powder utes to 1 hour. The water should not boil. If it does,
add a little cold water. The cream should set, but
Madeleines (small French cakes) still be soft enough to tremble when lightly shaken.
2 eggs To check, insert a knife; the blade should come out
Scant 2/3 cup (125 g) sugar
V3 cup (100 ml) milk wet, but clean. Cool to room temperature.
l 2 / 3 cups (200 g) flour Make the madeleines just before the meal, as
1 level teaspoon baking powder they're at their best when they are still warm.
1/2 cup (100 g) butter, melted + 1/2 tablespoon Preheat the oven to 425 ° F (220°C, gas mark 7). In
butter at room temperature a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and the
1/2 teaspoon ground aniseseed
sugar, t h e n add the milk, t h e n the flour and
2 tablespoons confectioners' (icing) sugar, if
desired baking powder sifted together, the melted butter,
and the aniseseed. With the remaining butter,
Make the creams in advance, so that they will have grease 2 non-stick madeleine pans (scalloped-
time to cool. Bring half the milk to a boil, with the shaped pans). Fill the molds (preferably small)
split vanillabean(s), remove from heat and set aside and bake for 7 to 8 minutes. They should rise and
to infuse. Meanwhile beat 1 whole egg, 4 egg yolks, be golden. Unmold while still warm onto a wire
and half the sugar, until it starts to whiten. Scrape out rack.
the seeds from the beans, add to the milk, discard the
To serve, place one vanilla and one chocolate
bean, then gradually pour milk into the eggs, stirring
cream on each plate, along with three or four
constantly with a wooden spoon. Strain mixture
madeleines, sprinkled with confectioners' sugar if
through a sieve or chinois and fill 6 ovenproof clay
desired. Accompany with a Jurangon doux.
pots or 6 ramekins. Repeat exactly the same process

134 DESSERTS
 FONDANT AU CHOCOLAT,
SAUCE AU CARAMEL DEMI-SEL
Chocolate Fudge Cake with Salt Toffee Sauce (Catherine Gutrraz, Chez Catherine)

4 squares (4 oz/120 g) dark chocolate (minimum Melt the chocolate and butter in the top of a
55% cocoa) double boiler. Meanwhile, beat together the eggs and
3
/4 cup (150 g) butter (use 1/2 tablespoon of
sugar until it begins to rise and become pale. Add
this to grease the dishes)
4 eggs the flour, then the melted butter and chocolate,
2
/3 cup (150 g) sugar mixing well after each addition. Butter 6 individual
1
/2 cup (60 g) flour, sifted souffle dishes, about 3-in (8-cm) across and 21/2-in
Salt toffee sauce (6-cm) high, and fill to within l/2-in (1-cm) from the
2
/3 cup (150 g) sugar top. If you do not have individual molds, a small
Juice of half a lemon casserole dish will suffice. Chill to set slightly.
1/4 cup (50 g) salted butter Use this time to make the Salt Toffee Sauce. In
1/3 cup (100 g) heavy (double) cream a saucepan, cook the sugar with a small quantity
of water, and make a golden caramel. Add the
lemon juice, stir thoroughly, add the butter, stir
again until it is melted, then add the cream, still
stirring constantly. Pour this amber liquid into a
bowl, cool to room temperature then reserve in the
refrigerator.
Half an hour before serving, finish the cakes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C, gas mark 6).
Bake 12 minutes for the small molds, 20 minutes
for a larger dish. The top should be solid. Leave to
rest a few minutes, then unmold onto plates, and
draw a ring of sauce around them.
This rich, incredibly suave dessert, would be a
regal ending to a light meal. Try serving a
Rivesaltes or vintage port.

136 DESSERTS
 GATEAU PE RIZ, CREME ANGLAISE
Rice Pudding with Custard (Patrick Rayer, La Rotisserie du Beaujolais)

Make this cake several days before serving and only Carefully mix the rice, the remaining sugar,
prepare the custard on the day of the meal iteslf. and the fruit and pour into the pan. Place in a
3
/4 cup (150 g) short grain rice, preferably baking tray, filled with boiling water and bake for
Arborio approximately 30 minutes, until the top browns.
3 cups (750 ml) whole milk Cool, then store in refrigerator.
1 vanilla bean, split The day the dish is to be served, make the
Sacnt l1/2 cups (300 g) sugar
Custard Sauce. Heat the milk with the split vanilla
5 oz (150 g) candied fruit (or mixed peel),
diced small, or golden raisins (sultanas), bean, remove from heat as soon as it boils, let
soaked in cold water infuse and cool slightly. Beat the yolks and the
Pinch table salt sugar until they become thick and pale. Scrape
Custard out the vailla beans, add to the milk, discard bean.
1 cup (250 ml) whole milk Very gradually, stir the milk into the eggs, return
1 vanilla bean, split mixture to the saucepan and heat over low heat,
4 egg yolks stirring with a wooden spoon, until it becomes
5 teaspoons sugar thick enough to coat the back of the spoon.
Boil the rice for 3 minutes in a large quantity of water. Remove from heat, pour into bowl and cool. If
Drain. Bring the milk to a boil with the salt and the you cook it too long and it curdles, process in a
split vanilla bean, then add the rice and cook, barely blender or liquidizer until smooth and thick.
simmering, until the milk has completely evaporated, To serve, briefly dip the pan into boiling water,
about 45 minutes. Stir gently from time to time, unmold and cut the pudding into thin slices. Each
to prevent the rice from sticking. diner will pour his or her own custard while emit-
Put half the sugar in a saucepan, moisten with ting loud sighs of contentment. Accompany with
a little water, and cook without stirring to make a a Jurancon moelleux.
dark caramel. Pour it immediately into a 8-in
(20-cm) non-stick loaf pan, and quickly b u t
carefully tilt in all directions to coat the sides.
Preheat oven to 360°F (180°C, gas mark 4).

138 DESSERTS
 CREPES SUZETTE AU GRAND MARNIER
Crepes Suzette with Grand Marnier (Andre Cellier, Brasserie Mollard)

Scant 2 cups (200 g) flour, sifted into the air with a flick of the wrist (if you have had
5 teaspoons sugar practice). You should make about 10 crepes.
Large pinch salt Reserve, stacked on a plate.
2 eggs
2 cups (500 ml) whole milk When ready to serve, fold the crepes into
1 tablespoon peanut oil or melted butter, plus quarters. In a frying pan of chafing dish, make
a little extra for the pan the sauce. Melt the butter and sugar and cook over
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier (or failing that, moderate heat until a golden caramel forms. While
rum) they are cooking, wash and dry the orange and
Sauce lemon, remove their zest and extract the juice of
1/2 cup (100 g) hutter the whole orange but only half the lemon.
Scant1/2cup (100 g) sugar When the caramel is ready, stop the cooking
1 orange and 1 lemon
process by adding the lemon juice, then add the
4 tablespoons Grand Marnier
zests, stirring briefly.
Make the batter the night before cooking, or the Pour in orange juice and stir again, place
morning of the dinner, as it needs to rest for several the crepes in the sauce so they absorb liquid
hours in the refrigerator before being used. In a bowl, while reheating. When the sauce becomes a thick
mix the flour, sugar, and salt. Whisk in the eggs, syrup, pour in the Grand Marinier and carefully
then the milk, oil (or butter), and finally the spirits. set alight to flambe, while gently shaking the pan,
Cover and chill. so that the b u r n i n g alcohol covers the crepes
A few m i n u t e s before mealtime, rouse the uniformly. Place two crepes on each plate, top
batter with a little whisking, and make the crepes with a little syrup and serve this great classic as
(pancakes). Using a paper towel, grease a 10-in it is presented in Parisian brasseries where
(25-cm) crepe pan with a little oil. Place the pan traditions live on, piping hot. Accompany with a
over high heat, and when hot, pour a small ladle- glass of Champagne.
ful of batter, tilt the pan to coat completely, cook
the first side until golden then turn it over with a
spatula (if you are a beginner) or by flipping it

140 DESSERTS
 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The recipes selected for this book are not only easy highly inventive dishes. The desserts of pastry chef
to prepare and their ingredients readily available, Patrice Contrand, born in Paris to parents originally
but they all hold considerable cultural value. The from the Perigord and Normandy, are marvels of
chefs themselves are both staunch defenders of their subtlety.
know-how and innovators, a dual passion without Marty, 20 avenue des Gobelins, 75005
which there is no true quality.
Christian Etchebest: Born in the Basque Country,
The chefs with his coarse yet sunny accent, this young chef
Stephane Baron: Born in Paris to parents who loves his region of origin and displays a most in-
moved from Brittany and Charentes, this young chef fectious enthusiasm. His demanding cuisine is an
has turned the beautiful Menilmontant restaurant example of tradition exalted by audacity, and imag-
where he labors into an establishment whose ination that transforms his skill into sheer poetry.
reputation extends beyond the confines of his Le Troquet, 21 rue Frangois Bonvin, 75015
neighborhood. He gives pride of place to seafood
and adores spices and heady flavors. Tsukasa Fukuyama: This young Japanese chef
Le Zephyr, 1 rue du Jourdain, 75020 works at the annex of Apicius and Marius in the 16th
arrondissement. To the clear, precise, and elegant
Benoit Chagny: Born in Normandy, he was given style of the establishment he brings his attention to
responsibility by Jean-Pierre Vigato, the owner of detail and his perfectionism.
Apicius, and Francois Grandjean, owner of Marius A & M L e Bistrot, 136 boulevard Murat, 75016
(two of the capital's acclaimed restaurants), for one
of their two bistros. Short cooking times, technical Catherine Guerraz: Born in Aquitaine to parents
perfection and elegant simplicity have made the who owned a restaurant in Nice, this young, self-
reputation of both the bistro and this young chef. taught cook was brought up in the shadow of the
A & M L e Bistrot, 105 rue de Prony, 75017 stove. People throng to sample her market dishes,
full of freshness and sensuality, just like their chef.
Thierry Colas: This young chef from Normandy has Chez Catherine, 65 rue de Provence, 75009
taken over one of the most beautiful 1930s
brasseries in the capital, serving high-precision cui- Flora Mikula: Born in Nimes to Polish parents who
sine, where brasserie classics rub shoulders with emigrated to Lorraine, and brought up by her

142 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
grandmother in Avignon where she attended hotel Andre Signoret: From Bresse, rewarded by the
school, this young lover of Provence cooks up a cui- Academie Culinaire de France, he manages the
sine that is a fine example of the balance between kitchen of the most extraordinary brasserie in
regional products and modern lightness. Paris (according to Louise de Vilmorin). Listed as
Les Olivades, 41 avenue de Segur, 75007 a historic monument, it bears startling testimony to
the Belle Epoque style. There you can sample dishes
Jean-Jacques Rafnani: he watches with gruff ami- in the greatest bourgeois tradition, discreetly light-
ability over his bistro, which is a gathering point for ened and modernized.
natives and aficionados of his island, serving a rus- Le Train Bleu, Gare de Lyon, 20 boulevard Diderot,
tic cuisine, just like grandma made it, with all the 75012
honesty of an old craftsman and the scents of the
wilds of Corsica. Philippe Tredgeu: In the shadow of the Church of
Paris Main d'Or, 133 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Antoine, Saint-Vincent-de-Paul this young chef from the
75011 Beam serves up a cuisine that is freely inspired by
his home region. His excellent bistro is frequently
Patrick Rayer: this Burgundian, a member of the besieged, as is always the case in Paris when a fine
Academie Culinaire de France (which brings to- restaurant opens and is lauded by gourmands who
gether the upper crust of French professional are the best form of advertisement a chef could hope
chefs), showers warmth and authority over the for.
bistro of the most prestigious restaurant in Paris, La Chez Casimir, 6 rue de Belzunce, 75010
Tour d'Argent. He dedicates himself with talent to
the cuisine and wines of the region between Lyon The author
and Macon. Author Marie-Noel Rio has worked as a film
Rotisserie du Beaujolais, 19 quai de la Tournelle, editor, theatre director, and playwright and
75005 author of libretti and books on contemporary
opera. Her rather unusual career has given her
Joel Renty: Also a Burgundian and member of the an original voice that has made her a success in
Academie Culinaire de France, he is responsible for food writing. One of her books, Je Ne Sais Pas
the cuisine of the historic monument that is the Recevoir (I Can't Throw a Dinner Party), has been
most beautiful Art Nouveau brasserie in Paris, the published in France, while another, Je Ne Sais
work of the architect Edouard Niermans. The tra- Pas Cuisiner (I Can't Cook), has been published in
ditional desserts are overseen by the pastry chef France and Germany.
Andre Cellier, originally from Auvergne.
Mollard, 115 rue Saint-Lazare, 75008

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 143
 Index
Appetizers Desserts Fish and Shellfish Meat and Poultry
Aspergues Sauvaes et Pois Gour- Apple Bread Puddding 124 Broccio-stuffed Sardines 68 "Foyots" Veal Chops with Sauteed
mands aux Oeufs Mollets 43 Chaud-Froid de Fruits Rouges Cabillaud aux Epices, Epinards au Potatoes 114
Bavaroises de Tomates, Sauce Parfume 126 Basilic 88 Beaujolais-sryle Calves Kidneys
Basilic 46 Chocolate Fudge Cake with Salt Crevettes Dorees, Artichauts et with Mashed Potato 116
Boulettes d'epinards au Broccio 58 Toffee Sauce 136 Celeri aux Agrumes 66 Beef Fillet with Potato Gratin 102
Cold Cucumber, Mint, and Citrus Tutti Frutti 129 Crispy Brill, Champagne Sauce 84 Beef Simmered in Red Wine 104
Paprika Soup 52 Clafoutis aux Fruits D'ete 129 Croustillant de Barbue, Sauce Blanquette de Veau a la Vanille et
Cold Tomato and Basil Soup 53 Crepes Suzette au Grand Champagne 84 aux Agrumes 118
Coriande r Fava Bean Ragout with Marnier 140 Dos de Loup Grille, Articnauts En Canard Roti, Legumes
a "Broken" Egg 48 Crepes Suzette with Grand Barigoule 78 Nouveaux 98
Crayfish Gratin 64 Marnier 140 Filets de Dorade Rons, Pommes de Chicken Breasts In a Walnut and
Cream of Lentil Soup 54 Financier Tiede aux Poires, Creme a Terre au Basilic 74 Rosemary Crust 94
Creme de Lentilles 54 la Chicoree 122 Galettes de Brandade de Morue, Cote de Veau Foyot, Pommes
Dorade Tartare with Dill 62 Fondant au Chocolat, Sauce au Compotee de Tomates 92 Sautees 114
Fish Soup 50 Caramel Demi-Sel 136 Golden Prawns, Artichokes and Daube au Vin Rouge 104
Flans de Potiron aux Pommes et aux Gateau de Riz, Creme Anglaise 138 Celery with Citrus Fruit 66 Duck Breast and Asparagus Tips
Noisettes 56 Glace aux Herbes 128 Grilled Bass with Artichokes 78 Aujus 96
French Onion Soup 55 Hot Apple Tartlets 131 Ham-wrapped Salmon Tournedos Filet Du Boeuf 102
Gratin D'ecrevisses 64 Latte Cotto et Ses Tunes aux with Sauce Vierge 82 French Shepherd's Pie 108
Green Asparagus, Quail Egg, and Amande s 132 Mullet with Tapenade , Marinated Guinea Fowl with Green Beans
Pancetta Cream Soup 52 Meli-Melo D'agrumes 129 Fennel, and Beurre Blanc 70 and Olive Paste 100
Legumes Printaniers Marines a la Minestrone de Fruits Exotiques au Pave de Cabillaud Roti a Vail Doux Hachis Parmentier 108
Coriandre 44 Gingembre 130 et Son Gratin 90 Honey-Glazed Suckling Pig Ribs
Noix de Saint-Jacques 62 Pain Perdu aux Pommes 124 Pave de Turbot Roti aux Blettes, with Herbed Mashed Potato 112
Pumpkin Flans with Apples and Panna Cotta and Almond Sauce Vin Rouge 86 Magret de Canard, Pointes D'as-
Hazelnuts 56 Wafers 132 Red Mullet and Squid, Served perges au Jus 96
Ragout de Feves a la Coriandre, Poires Roties au Caramel de Fruits with De licate Ratatouille 72 Pintaae Confite et Haricots Verts a
OeufCasse 48 Sees 120 Roast Cod with Sweet Garlic and la Tapenade 100
Roast Sardines with a Tomato Pots Vanille et Chocolat, Made leines Gratin 90 Pot-Au-Feu Dans Sa Tradition 106
Tartar 60 a I'anis 134 Roast Fillest of Dorade with Basil Provencal Lamb and Olive
Roties de Sardines et Leur Tartare Rice Pudding with Custard 138 Potatoes 74 TianllO
de Tomates 60 Roast Pears with Nut Caramel Roast Steaks of Turbot with Swiss Roast Duck with Baby
Scallops with Citrus Sauce 120 Chard and Red Wine Sauce 86 Vegetables 98
Vinaigrette 62 Soupe de Fraises 128 Rouget a la Tapenade, Fenouil Ma- Rognons de Veau Beauge et Leur
Soupe a Voignon Gratinee 55 Strawberry Soup with Herb Ice rine et Beurre Blanc 70 Puree 116
Soupe Cremeuse D'asperges Vertes, Cream 128 Rougets et Chipirons, Fine Steak Tartare 102
Oeufde Caille, Pancetta 52 Summer Fruit Clafoutis 129 Ratatouille 72 Supreme de VdlaiUe en Croute de
Soupe de Poisson 50 Summer Fruit Gratin 126 Salt Cod Fishcakes with Tomato Noix au Romarin 94
Soupe Glacee de Concombres, Men- Tarte Fine Chaude aux Compote 92 Tian D'agneau aux Olives 110
the et Paprika 52 Pommes 131 Sardines Farcies au Broccio 68 Traditional Pot-au-Feu 106
Soupe Glacee de Tomates au Tropical Fruit Minestrone with Sole Meuniere with Steamed Travers de Porcelet au Mid, Puree, a
Basilic 53 Ginger 130 Potatoes 76 laCive 112
Spinach Croquettes with Vanilla and Chocolate Creams Sole Meuniere, Pommes Vapeur 76 Veal Stew Scented with Vanilla
Broccio 58 with Anise Made leines 134 Spiced Cod with Spinach and Basil and Citrus Fruit 118
Spring Vegetables Marinated in Warm Pear Financier Cakes with 88
Coriander 44 Chicory Custard 122 Steak de Than au Beurre D'orange,
Tartare de Dorade 62 Poelee de Courgettes 80
Tomato Bavarois with Basil Tournedos de Saumon au Jambon,
Dressing 46 Sauce Vierge 82
Wild Asparagus and Snow Peas Tuna Steaks with Orange Butter
with Poached Eggs 43 and Zucchini Garnish 80

144 INDEX