MODERNIST

CUISINE

Kitchen Manual
MODERNIST
CUISINE
The Ant and Science of Cooking

Nathan Myhrvold
with Chris Young
and Maxima Bilet

Photography by
Ryan Matthew Smith
and Nathan Myhrvold
 Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2020 with funding from
Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.0rg/details/modernistcuisineOOOOmyhr
Modernist Cuisine
The Art and Science of Cooking

Volume B

Kitchen
Manual

The Cooking Lab

Copyright © 2011 by The Cooking Lab, LLC

All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part

of this publication maybe reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by

any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written

permission of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective
owners.

The Cooking Lab

3150 139th AveSE

Bellevue, WA 98005

www.modernistcuisine.com

ISBN: 978-0-9827610-0-7

First edition, 2011

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request

Printed in China
TABLE OF CONTENTS Best Bets for Extracts.27
House Bitters.27
CHAPTER 8: COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 2 Fines Herbs Extract.27
How to Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven.2
Best Bets for Infused Fats.28
Cantonese Fried Rice.2
Shellfish Butter.29
How to Roast a Chicken in a Combi Oven.3
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil.29
Combi Oven Roast Chicken.3
Spiced Chili Oil.29
Combi Oven Rib Eye.4
Molasses Butter.29
Roast Pigeon Crown.4
Curry Oil.30
Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli.5
Crab Oil.30
Malaysian Aromatic Oil.30
CHAPTER 10: THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 6 Additives to Preserve the Color and Flavor
Best Bets for Stocks.6 of Fresh Juice.31
Best Bets for Stock Aromatics.8 Meyer Lemonade.31
Spiced Shellfish Stock.9 Melon Water.31
Paella Stock.9 Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi.32
Triple Dungeness Crah and Pork Stock Infusion.10 Sous Vide Berryjuice.32
Brown Beef Stock.10 Strawberry Consomme.32
Brown Veal Stock.11 Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus.33
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock.11 Strawberry Gazpacho.33
Onion Stock.11 Best Bets for Jus.34
How to Make Stock Sous Vide.12 Jus de la Presse.34
Sous Vide Fish Stock.12 Root Vegetable Jus.36
Sous Vide Vegetable Stock.13 Sous Vide Vegetable Jus.36
Best Bets for Broths.14 Clam Juice.36
Borscht Broth.14 Lamb Garlic Jus in ajar.37
Hon Dashi.15 Mushroom Jus.37
Ham Broth.16 Sous Vide Mussel Juice.37
Oxtail Pho Broth.16 Toasted Oat Jus.38
Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf.16 Banyuls Glaze.38
Laksa Broth.17 Tagine Base.39
Bouillabaisse Broth.17 Squash Glaze.39
Bacon Dashi.18 Sous Vide Prawn Jus.39
Tom Yum Broth.18 Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus.40
Cured Ham Broth.18 Sous Vide Beef Juice.40
Baked Potato Broth.19 Centrifuged Carotene Butter.40
Goulash Broth.19 Tomato Water.40
Mushroom Broth.19 Centrifuged Pea Juice.41
Best Bets for Infused Liquids.20 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil.41
Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers.21 Banana Yogurt.41
Sous Vide Ponzu.22 Best Bets for Consomme.42
Best Bets for Lowering pH.22 Oyster Consomme.42
Typical Acid Concentrations.23 Clarifying a Consomme.43
Seaweed Vinegar.23 Apple Cider Consomme.43
Elder Flower Vinegar.23 Spring Garlic Consomme.44
Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette.23 Bagna Cauda Consomme.44
Constructed Red Wine Glaze.24 Pistachio Consomme.44
Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol.24 Pot-au-Feu Consomme.45
Clove Oil.25 Oxtail Consomme.46
Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice.25 Red Coleslaw.46
Condrieu Butter.25 How to Distill with a Rotavap.47
Glazed Carrot.25 Buddha’s Hand Vodka.47
Marinated Spaghetti Squash.26 Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage Juice.47
How to Wash Citrus Oil.26 Mock Turtle Soup.48
Extracting Flavor with Alcohol.26 Indies Spice Blend.48
Brown Butter Fumet.26 Quatre Epices.48
Hazelnut Oil Extract.26 Chili Tomato Spice Blend.49

Page references of the form 4'381 refer to volume 4, page 381. Selected component

recipes from the plated-dish recipes in volume 5 have been reprinted here. Each

appears in the chapter for which it is most relevant.

MODERNIST CUISINE V
 Memphis Rub.49 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk.75

Kansas Rub.49 Escolar with Red Wine Butter.75

Chaat Masala.50 Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth.76

Sweet Spice Blend.50 Black Cod.76

Passion Fruit Granita.50 Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad.77

Fish Spice Mix.51 Sous Vide Monkfish Pave.77

Pain d’Epices Powder.51 Sous Vide Snapper.78

Citrus Spice.52 Sous Vide Salmon.78

Licorice Powder.52 Skate Pave with Bread Crust.78

Ras el Flanout.52 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide.79

Exotic Spice Mixture.53 Sous Vide Mussels.79

Pacojet Pea Soup.53 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry and Cocoa.80

Mozzarella Powder.53 Shrimp Cocktail.80

Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder.53 Oyster Escabeche.81

How to Mill a Creamy Nut Butter.54 Steamed Live Spot Prawn.81

Frozen Creme-Fraiche and Pine-Nut Cream.54 Poached Lobster Tail.81

Sour Rhubarb Sorbet.54 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry.82

Romesco Sauce.54 Sous Vide Duck Confit Pave.82

Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees.55 Sous Vide Guinea Hen.83

Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree.56 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Shellfish.83

Creamed Watercress.56 Sous Vide Braised Snails.83

Pistachio Puree.57 Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style.84

Black Truffle Concentrate.57 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki.. 84

Celery Root Mousseline.57 Razor Clam with Sauce Verte.85

Best Bets for Freeze-Drying.58 Sous Vide Octopus.85

How to Use a Spray Dryer.59 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts.86

Spray-Dried Buttermilk.59 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and Orange Sauce.87

Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice.59 Crispy Duck Tongues.87

Prefreezing Temperatures for Freeze-Dried Foods.59 Beef Shank Rillette.87

Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules.60 Sous Vide Pork Belly.88

Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster.60 Braised Lamb Shoulder.88

Ramen Vegetables.61 Beef Brisket.88

Ramen Stock Powder.61 Pork Ribs.88

How to Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice.62 Pulled Pork Shoulder.89

Strawberry Milk Shake.62 Braised Veal Foreshank.89

Orange Soda.62 American Wagyu Beef Cheek.89

Carbonated Golden Raisins.63 Rare Flatiron Steak.89

Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, Braised Short Ribs.90

and Miso Powder.63 Sous Vide Veal Tongue.90

Beef Short Ribs.90

CHAPTER 11: MEAT AND SEAFOOD 64 Glazed Oxtail.90

Best Bets for Tartares.64 How to Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results.91

Hanger Steak Tartare.65 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal Breast

Beef and Oyster Tartare.65 with Bulbous Vegetables.91

Scallop Tartare.66 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas.92

Salmon Tartare Cornets.67 Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and Ginger.92

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide.68 How to Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast.93

Rack of Lamb.68 Ultracrisp Chicken Crown.93

Pork Tenderloin with Juniper.69 Pork Loin Roast.94

Venison Loin Rossini.69 Puffed Cockscomb.94

Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini ....70 Monkfish with Constructed Skin.95

Sous Vide Rabbit Loin.70 Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows.95

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide.71 Puffed Chicken Feet.95

Best Bets for Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide ..71 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide.96

Poulet au Feu d’Enfer.72 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide.96

Pigeon with Shellfish Butter.72 Sous Vide Foie Gras.96

Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts... 73 Ankimo Torchon.97

Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide.74 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake.97

VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart.98 Saucisson Sec.134
Sous Vide Pigeon Offal.98 Fermented Shrimp Sheets.134
Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea Lettuce.99 Fast-Cured Pepperoni.135
Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads.99 Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage.136
Crispy Sweetbreads.100 Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel.136
Best Bets for Brines.101 Low-Fat Chicken Sausage.136
Best Bets for Wet Cures.102 Rare Beef Sausage.137
Best Bets for Dry Rubs.102 Fried Chicken Sausage.137
Best Bets for Brining.103
Best Bets for Curing.103 CHAPTER 12: PLANT FOODS 138
Foie Gras Torchon.104 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender.138
Foie Gras Parfait.104 Sous Vide Baby Beet Salad.138
Bacon Chip.104 Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion.138
Shaved Foie Gras.105 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide
Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises.105 Until Tender.139
Confit Cure Mix.106 Sous Vide Turnip.139
Miso-Cured Black Cod.106 Glazed White Carrot.139
Grapefruit-Cured Salmon.107 Braised Turnips with Saffron.140
House-Cured Bacon.107 Glazed Pearl Onion.140
Microwaved Beef Jerky.108 Potato Salad.140
Crispy Beef Strands.108 Fresh Bean Salad.141
Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad.108 Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion.141
Juniper Brine.109 Carrot and Dill Fricassee.141
Sous Vide Duck Ham.109 Sous Vide Lentils.142
Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache.109 Sous Vide Green Asparagus.142
Fluke Cured in Kombu.110 Sous Vide Artichoke.142
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham.110 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat
Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style”.Ill Until Tender.143
Sea Urchin Bottarga.Ill Chestnut Confit.143
Salted Halibut.112 Salsify Fondant.143
Halibut Brandade.112 Sweet Potato Fondant.144
Seafood Paper.113 Lobster Mushroom Confit.144
Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and Thyme.113 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide
Kalbi Flank Steak.114 for Purees.144
Lutefisk.114 Salted Caramel Apple Puree.145
Yakitori.115 Tamarind Paste.145
Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade.116 Date Puree.145
Fluke Ceviche.117 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup
Chicken Tikka Masala.118 Until Tender.146
Gong Bao Chicken.119 Pink Grapefruit Confit.146
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters.119 Best Bets for Warming Vegetables Sous Vide.147
Best Bets for Smoking Meats.120 Red Wine Cabbage.147
Russian Smoked Salmon.121 Best Bets for Potato Purees.148
Beef Cheek Pastrami.121 Potato Puree.148
Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown.122 Best Bets for Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods.149
Smoked Pork Cheek.122 Baked Beans.149
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon.122 Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans.149
Smoked Octopus.123 Caramelized Carrot Soup.150
Best Bets for Burgers.123 Autoclaved Onion Soup.150
Best Bets for Coarse-Ground Sausages.124 Crispy Boiled Peanuts.151
Farce Royale.126 Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds.151
Toulousain Garlic Sausage.126 Potato Puree.151
Green Garlic and Pork Sausage.127 Best Bets for Risotto.152
Best Bets for Emulsion-Style Sausages.128 Steamed Sticky Rice.152
Italian Sausage.130 Risotto Milanese.153
Frankfurter.130 Paella Rice.153
Boudin Blanc.131 Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto.154
Best Bets for Fermented Sausages.132 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto.154

MODERNIST CUISINE V I I
Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash.155 Green Papaya Pickle.180

Ragout of Grains.156 Pickled Butternut Squash.180

Root Vegetable Risotto.156 Crispy Dosa.181

Best Bets for Microwaving Vegetables.157 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade.181

Microwave-Fried Parsley.157 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit.182

Tomato Powder.157 Best Bets for Preservation.182

Artichoke and Potato Chaat.158 Best Bets for Heat-Treated Fruit.183

Sichuan Bok Choy.158 Best Bets for Smoked Plant Foods.183

Best Bets for Naked Frying.159 Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon.184

Toasted Garlic Chips.159 Smoked Potato Confit.184

Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts.159 Best Bets for Dehydration.185

Pommes Pont-Neuf.160 Garlic Nougatine.185

Pectinase-Steeped Fries.160 Formulas for Dehydrating Produce.186

Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns.160 Green Pea Wafer.186

Starch-Infused Fries.161 Crystallized Rose Petals.187

Ultrasonic Fries.161 Spinach Paper.187

Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries.161 Mandarin Leather.187

Best Bets for Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips.162 Pineapple Glass.187

Watermelon Chips.162 Best Bets for Freeze-Drying Plant Foods.188

Restructured Potato Chips.162 Onion Sable.188

Best Bets for Batters.163 Seared Strawberry.189

Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura Caesar Salad.189

with Smoked White Soy Sauce.164 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder.189

Fried Pickles.164 Shrimp and Grits.190

Crispy Halibut Cheek.165 Best Bets for Pasta Doughs.191

The Colonel’s Fried Chicken.165 Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil.191

Modernist Fried Chicken.166 Spaghetti Carbonara.192

Oyster Beignet.166 Mac and Cheese.192

Breading.167 Pad Thai.193

Crispy Okra.167 Pasta Marinara.193

Cromesquis.168 Cocoa Tajarin.194

Fried Green Tomatoes.168 Ramen Noodles.194

Corn Croquetta.169 Buckwheat Dough.194

Pork Trotter Beignet.169 Semolina Pasta.195

Onion Rings.170 Best Bets for Compressing or Impregnating Produce.195

Razor Clam “Takoyaki”.171 Smoked Lettuce.195

Crispy Corn Pudding.172 Curry-Impregnated Apple.196

Salting, Pickling, and Fermenting.173 Compressed Muscat Grapes.196

Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil.173 Compressed Melon Terrine.196

Preserved Lemons.174 Watermelon Meat.197

Pickled Garlic.174 Vegetable Coals.197

Pickled Tapioca Pearl.174 Pulled Mushroom.197

Kimchi.175 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto.198

Watermelon Rind Kimchi.175 Frozen White “Truffle”.198

Nukazuke.175 Clay Potatoes.199

Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles.176 Fossilized Salsify Branch.199

Garlic Confit.176
Aromatic Alsatian Mustard.176 CHAPTER 13: THICKENERS 200
Sauerkraut.177 Best Bets for Thickening with Natural Starch.200
Braised Sauerkraut.177 Pregelatinized Starch Paste.200
Pickled Figs.177 Best Bets for Thickening with Modified Starch.201
Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables.178 Avocado Puree.201
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes.178 Modernist Bechamel.202
Pickled Ramps.178 Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding.202
Pickled Lemon.179 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute.203
Pickled Celery Root.179 Smoked Pepper Puree.203
Tomato Confit.179 Caramelized Creme Fraiche.203
Pickled Bing Cherry.180 Pomegranate and Garumjus.204

VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Turkey Wing.204 Toasted Almond Milk.228
Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy.204 Horchata (Chufa Milk).228
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes.205 Lemon Strips.228
Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Dumpling.205 Best Bets for Edible Eilms.229
Marcona Almond Butter Paste.205 Crispy Cream Cheese.229
Malt Vinegar Porvder.206 Spiced Honey Glass.230
Bacon Powder Squares.206 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine.230
Parmesan Nuggets.206 Edible Wrappers.230
Spiced Ash.206 Onion Arlette.231
Vanilla Olive Oil Powder.207 BBQ^Caramels.231
Cashew Halvah.207
Almond Polenta.207 CHAPTER 14: GELS 232
Edible Earth.208 Best Bets for Cooking Whole Eggs.232
Corn Pebbles.209 Liquid Center Duck Egg.232
Best Bets for Thickening Hot Liquids.210 Egg Blossom.232
Best Bets for Thickening Cold Liquids.211 Deviled Eggs.233
Ham Consomme with Melon Beads.211 Custard Textures.233
Tomato Whey Broth.212 Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs.234
Truffle Jus.212 Century Egg.234
Beef Tenderloin withjus de Roti.212 Pickled Quail Eggs.234
Olive Oil Spread.213 Best Bets for Separated Egg Gels.235
White Grape Syrup.213 Cauliflower Creme Anglaise.235
XO Sauce.213 Eggs Benedict.236
Caramelized Coconut Cream.214 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets.236
Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry Marinara.214 Parmesan Creme Brulee.237
Creamed Spinach.215 Sauce Allemande.237
Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad.215 Egg Salad Sandwich.238
Aged Rare Beef Jus.216 Best Bets for Blended Egg Gels.239
Shiitake Marmalade.216 Boudin Noir Custard.239
Maple Vinegar Gastrique.216 French Scrambled Eggs.240
Mushroom Ketchup.217 Ham and Cheese Omelet.240
Apricot and Jasmine Puree.217 Asparagus Royale.241
Seaweed Tapenade.218 Dashimaki Tamago.241
Tamarind Puree.218 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast.241
South Carolina Barbecue Sauce.219 Chawanmushi.242
Kentucky Barbecue Sauce.219 Boudin Noir Bread Pudding.242
North Carolina (Lexington-Style) Chorizo French Toast.243
Barbecue Sauce.219 Olive Marmalade.243
House Barbecue Sauce.220 Omelet Base.243
Kansas City Barbecue Sauce.220 Best Bets for Smoking Dairy and Eggs.244
Memphis Barbecue Sauce.221 Smoked Egg Creme Caramel.244
North Carolina (Eastern Region) Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar.244
Barbecue Sauce.221 Best Bets for Protein Curds.245
East Texas Barbecue Sauce.221 Cocoa Nib Curd.246
Mughal Curry Sauce.222 Goat Cheese Dumplings.246
Pea Vine Salad.222 Silken Tofu.246
Muslim Curry Sauce.223 Fresh Cheese Curds.247
Green Mango and Cashew Salad.223 Modernist Burrata.247
Goan Curry Sauce.224 Goat Milk Ricotta.248
Kerala Curry Sauce.224 Firm Tofu.248
Masala Curry Sauce.225 Mozzarella Balloons.249
Red-Eye Gravy.225 Green Pea Yuba.249
Best Bets for Making Milks and Creams.226 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle Puree.250
Low-Fat “Cream”.226 Best Bets for Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) ...252
Instant Creme Fraiche.227 Sour Cream Spaetzle.252
Herbed Cheese Spread.227 Salmon Custard.253
Soy Milk.227 Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon Dashi.254
Toasted Rice Milk.228 Flourless Gnocchi.254

MODERNIST CUISINE
Deep-Fried Custard.255 Confit Egg Yolk Puree.288
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa.255 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel.289
Corn Bread.256 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel.289
Corn Custard.256 Best Bets for Spherification.290
Peanut “Tofu”.257 Carbonated Mojito Spheres.291
Idiazabal Gnocchi.258 Melon Caviar.291
Everything Bagel Broth.258 “Poached” Egg.292
Dill Spheres.259 Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil.292
Squid Ink Fluid Gel.259 Gruyere Spheres.293
Best Bets for Cold Gels.260 Caper Droplets.293
Salt Gel.261 Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres.294
Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto.262 Liquid Pimento Olive.294
Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot.262 Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg”.295
Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel.262
Cauliflower Panna Cotta.263 CHAPTER 15: EMULSIONS 296
Knot Foie.264 Ultrastable Beurre Blanc.296
Madeira Gelee.264 Poached Lobster.296
Chili Pearls.265 Beet Flexicurd.296
Guinness “Pate de Fruit”.265 Sea Urchin Butter.297
Olive Oil Noodles.266 Oyster Butter Emulsion.297
Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame, Ponzu.266 Black Butter Emulsion.297
Olive Oil Gummy Worms.267 Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter.298
Sherry Gel Cube.267 Blood Pudding Custard.298
Sunny-Side Up “Eggs”.268 Best Bets for Constructed Cheeses.299
Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels.269 Constructed Veal Cream.300
Foie Gras Parfait Spheres.270 The American Cheese Slice.300
Foie Gras Cherries.270 Cheese in a Tube.300
Halibut Cheek Gel Base.270 Cheesy Whip.301
Crimini in Amber.271 Cheddar Soup.301
Salmon Poached in Licorice.272 Remoulade Sauce.302
Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze.272 White Coleslaw.302
Halibut in Verbena Bubble.273 Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce.303
Best Bets for Hot Gels.274 Basic Mayonnaise.303
Agar Carbonara.275 Hot Egg Mayonnaise.303
Gruyere Custard.275 Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion.304
Shellfish Custard.276 Sous Vide Lemon Curd.304
Bone Marrow Custard.276 Baconjam.304
Boeuf en Gelee.277 Deep-Fried Hollandaise.305
Fruit and Vegetable Acidities.278 Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise.305
Best Bets for Hot Fruit Gels.279 Black Olive Puree.306
Hot Orange Gel.279 Thickened Oil.306
Hot Banana Gel.280 Invincible Vinaigrette.306
Hot Green Apple Gel.280 Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage.307
Hot Quince Gel.280 Eggless Citrus Curd.307
Quinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito Stock Veil.281 Mustard Vinaigrette.308
Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade.281 Sauce Vin Jaune.308
Best Bets for Methylcellulose Gels.282 Eggless Mayonnaise.309
Properties and Applications of Cellulose Gums.282 Spice Mix Emulsion.309
Instant Tofu Noodles.283 Olive Oil “Margarine”.309
Potato Beignets with Caviar.283 Pistachio Gelato.310
Sweet Pea Clusters.284 Hazelnut “Cream”.310
Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin.284 Jus Gras.310
Best Bets for Fluid Gels.285 Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup.311
Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel.286 Ginger Cola.311
Hot and Cold Tea.286
Passion Fruit Jelly.287 CHAPTER 16; FOAMS 312
Popcorn Pudding.287 Best Bets for Airs, Bubbles, and Froths.312
Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel.287 Citrus Air.312
Parmesan “Polenta”.288 Oysters with Mignonette Air.313
Onion Fluid Gel.288 Parsley Foam.313

VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam.313 Pommes Soufflees.342
Geoduck with Seawater Foam.314 Tapioca Starch Cracker.343
Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles.314 Black Sesame Rice Crisps.343
Saffron Honey Foam.314 Rice Crisp.343
Lychee and Lime Soda.315 Puffed Chickpeas.344
Tomato Vinegar Foam.315 Puffed Crab Cracker.344
Cappuccino Foam.315 Cheese Puffs.344
Best Bets for Light Foams.316 Socarrat Tuile.345
Horchata Foam.316 Candied Puffed Oats.345
Whipped Cheese.317 Scallop Mochi.345
Blood Orange Foam.317 Gremolata Crisp.346
Milk Foam.317 Aerated Mango Sorbet.347
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth.318 Edible Prune Coals.347
Corn Foam.318 Aerated Foie Gras.348
Blood Orange Sabayon.318 Aerated Gruyere.348
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon.319 Aerated Coffee Ice Cream.349
Coconut-Lobster Emulsion.319 Aerated Chocolate.349
Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino.320
Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam.320 CHAPTER 18:COFFEE 350
Grapefruit and Black Pepper.321 Coffee Butter.350
Best Bets for Thick, Fine-Textured Foams.322 Stable Latte Foam.350
Chocolate Chantilly.322
Instant Swiss Meringue.323 REFERENCE TABLES 352
Eggplant Foam.324 Converting Temperature.352
Baked Potato Foam.324 Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients... 354
Hot Butter Foam.324 Converting Weights.354
Coconut Chutney Foam.325 Common Conversion Factors.356
Suet Mousseline (Thick).325 Converting Volume Measures.357
Dairy-Free Whipped Cream.326 Water Content of Typical Foods.358
Cauliflower Foam.326 Fat Content of Typical Foods.361
Fried Egg Foam.326 Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods.... 362
Horseradish Foam.327
Oysters with Cava Foam.327
Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel.327
Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca.328
Chestnut Cream.328
Whipped Butter.329
Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips.329
Best Bets for Set Foams.330
Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo Powder.332
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour.332
Whipped Yogurt Crisps.333
Green Tea Cake.333
Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake.333
Hot Apricot Marshmallow.334
Hamburger Bun.334
Beet Meringue.335
Steamed Blancmange.335
Chestnut Puffs.336
Buttermilk Biscuits.336
Rye Bread.337
Moroccan Batbout Flatbread.338
Siphoned Souffle a la Lorraine.338
Green Olive Meringue.339
Soy Sauce Cloud.339
Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam.340
Gruyere Souffle.340
Zucchini Blossom Beignets.341
Pate a Choux.341
Best Bets for Puffed Snacks.342

MODERNIST CUISINE
HOW TO MAKE BACON AND EGGS IN A COMBI OVEN

EORTHE BACON: EORTHE EGGS:

® Assemble two sheet trays and two silicone mats for each batch @ Butter several 10 cm / 4 in baking rings and place them on a very flat
of bacon. baking sheet lined with a silicon mat. Alternatively, use the Rational
@ Slice the bacon to I'/i mm / Ye \n thick. Partially freezing the bacon before bakingtray designed forcooking eggs (see page 2-166).
slicing may make this step easier and more precise. @ Place one egg white in each buttered ring, reserving yolks.
@ Arrange the sliced bacon on the trays in an even layer. Place a second @ Cook the egg whites in a preheated combi oven at 79 °C/174 °F and
silicon mat on top of the bacon and top it with a second baking sheet 90% humidity forlS min.
to hold the slices flat.
® Reduce the oven temperature to 63 °C/145 °F. You may need to leave
@ Cook in a combi oven at 160 °C / 320 °F and 0% humidity until the bacon the door open a bit to cool the oven down. Check oven temperature
is brown and crisp, 20-30 min. If you prefer really dry bacon, remove the (via temperature probe or by pressing the temperature-control button)
top tray and silicon mat, reduce the heat to 79 °C /174 °F, and then to verify that it is at the proper temperature before going on to the
dehydrate for another 20-30 min. The exact cooking time depends on next step.
the moisture content of the bacon. A sugar-based bacon cure browns
® Place asingle egg yolk in the center of each egg white and cook
quickerand needs a lowertemperature.
for25 min.

® Unmold the "fried" eggs and serve.

CANTONESE ERIED RICE Yields 1.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken fat, rendered, 56 g 7% @ Preheat oven to 245 °C / 475 °F.
see page 3116
@ Add fat to nonstick roasting pan, and let heat.
shiitake mushroom, thinly 80 g 10%
©Add mushrooms, followed by sausage, and oven-fry until mushrooms soften and
Chinese sausage, thinly sliced sausages blister, about 5 min.
80 g 10%
Jasmine rice, cooked 800 g 100% @ Add, stir to evenly distribute other ingredients into rice.
and cooled
® Oven-fry for 3 min.
Garlic chives, cut into 80 g 10% ® Add, stir to distribute evenly, and oven-fry for about 30 s.
5 cm / 2 in lengths
Scallions, white only, fine 40 g 5%
julienne
Red Thai chili, seeded and 2g 0.25%
cut in fine julienne
English peas, shucked and 80 g 10% @ Fold into rice and oven-fry for about 2 min.
blanched (frozen peas work)
® Remove rice mixture from oven, leaving heat on.
Duck egg, beaten 160g 20% ® Make a well in the middle of the fried rice.
(four eggs)
@ Return rice mixture to 245 °C/ 475 °F oven to heat.

@ Add egg, and allow to cook until just coagulated, about I'A min.
@ Remove fried rice from oven.
White soy sauce 32 g 4% @ Combine liquids and stir into fried rice evenly to season.
@ Check seasoning and serve.
Dark soy sauce 24 g 3%
Mushroom soy sauce 12 g 1.5%
Toasted sesame oil 1.5g 0.4%
from page 2-176

Note that this recipe can be made in a CVap oven just as well. Be sure to
vent heat from the oven in step 4, and wait until the temperature stabilizes,
about5-10 min.

2 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

HOW TO ROAST A CHICKEN IN A COMBI OVEN

© Make brines. Whisk together 200 g of water with 16 g of salt until @ Remove from the oven, and hang at room temperature for 45 min. Resting
dissolved to make 8% brine. Repeat with 200 gofwaterand 10 gofsaitto will help the meat retain its juices when it is cut (for details, see page 3-84).
make a 5% brine. Reserve. ©Brush chicken evenly with clarified butter or neutral frying oil.
@ Separate the skin from the meat. Wearing gloves, work your fingers under @ Cook at 285 °C/550 °F and 0% humidity until the skin is brown and crisp,
the skin to detach it from the surface of the meat over the entire body of about 7 min.
the chicken. Be very careful not to tear the skin.
@ As an alternative to air-drying in a refrigerator for three days, put the
@ Inject the breast meat with an 8% salt brine. chicken in a blast chiller for 2-4 h on the chill (not freeze) setting. The

©Fill the syringe with brine equal to 10% of the weight of the bird. For al kg air-drying step can also be omitted—the first cooking step may take a bit

bird, for example, use 100 g of brine. longer, and the skin will not be quite as crispy, but it will still be much
crispierthan when roasted conventionally.
© Flangthe chicken by its legs in the refrigerator for 48 h. The brine will
@ Holding the core temperature ofthe bird at 55-60 °C/ 130-140 °F for
diffuse fully, and the skin will dry out. Just before cooking, inject the
breast again, this time with the 5% salt brine. Use an amount of brine about 2 h effectively pasteurizes the meat. For more on pasteurization
times for poultry, see page 1-181.
equal to 5% ofthe weight ofthe bird.

© Cook at 62 °C/144 °F and 0% humidity until the core temperature ofthe

breast meat is 60 °C /140 °F, about 4 h. Cook the bird hanging in the oven
above a drip tray.

COMBI OVEN ROAST CHICKEN Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

Whole chicken 2.0 kg 100%
Water 200 g 10%
Salt 16g 0.8%
Water 200 g 10%
Salt lOg 0.5%

Frying oil or clarified unsalted butter as needed

from page 2-178

PROGRAM
STAGE TEMPERATURE HUMIDITY COMMAND
1 © Preheat oven to 62 °C /144 “F.

2 62 °C/144°F 0% © Roast to core temperature

of 60 “C/140 “F, about 4 h.

3 © Remove chicken, and let rest 45 min.

4 285 “C/550 °F 0% @ Brush chicken with oil.

® When oven has reached temperature,

place chicken in oven, and searfor7 min.

COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 3

COMBI OVEN RIB EYE Yields 900g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef rib eye, bone in 900 g 100% @ Brush rib eye with butter.
Unsalted butter, melted as needed @ Place meat on perforated rack, This cooking program uses 25 min
Salt to taste and begin program. of dryingto prepare the surface for
searing. Duringthe dryingsteps, the
@ After stage 5, brush with more butter.
temperature is increased, but the
from page 2-180
humidity is decreased so that the
wet-bulb temperature does not exceed
the cooking temperature. The tempera¬
PROGRAM ture is increased in stages to give the oven
time to get rid of the extra humidity.
STAGE TEMP HUMIDITY COMMAND
1 55°C/131 °F 100% @ Preheat oven to 55 °C /131 °F in steam mode. The temperatures at left are for what we
2 55°C/131 °F 100% ® Steam until core temperature reaches 54 °C/129 °F, about 1 h. judge to be a medium-rare steak. The
3 55 “C/131 °F 0% ® Dry for5 min. temperatures can be adjusted for other
levels of doneness by using the table
4 58°C/136'’F 0% @ Dry for5 min.
below.
5 61 '’C/142°F 0% ® Dry forl5 min.
6 ® Remove steak from oven.
7 300°C/575°F 0% @ Preheat oven until it reaches temperature, about 10 min.

8 300-C/575'F 0% ® Sear for 2 min.

@ Turn and searanother2 min.

STAGE RARE MEDIUM RARE MEDIUM

1 51 °C/124‘’Fwithl00%humidity 55 °C /131 "F with 100% humidity 60 °C/140 °F with 100% humidity
to core of 50 °C /122 °F to core of 54 °C /129 °F to core of 58 °C/136 °F
2 51 °C /124 °F with 0% humidity for 5 min 55 °C/131 °F with 0% humidity for 5 min 60 °C/140 °F with 0% humidity for5 min
3 53 °C/127 °F with 0% humidity for 5 min 58 °C /136 “F with 0% humidity for 5 min 63 °C/145 °F with 0% humidity for 5 min
4 56 °C/133 °F with 0% humidity for 15 min 61 °C /142 °F with 0% humidity for 15 min 66 °C /151 °F with 0% humidity for 15 min

ROAST PIGEON CROWN Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pigeon crown 600 g 100% ® Remove skin in one piece, making sure to remove skin around arm and shoulder.
@ Cut out shape from still-cold skin to fit over crown, using actual crown as template.
Farce royale 200 g 33% @ Dust farce sheet with Activa, and place over crown.
see page 126
® Pull skin over crown.
Activa RM orCS as needed
® Wrap crown tightly in plastic wrap, and vacuum seal.

® Place on small baking sheet in vacuum machine, and pull full vacuum to collapse any residual
air pockets.

@ Refrigerate for 6 h to allow enzyme to bind proteins.

Duck fat as needed ® Sear prepared pigeon crown in dry, hot nonstick pan, rotating and applying pressure to brown
Salt to taste evenly, about5 min.

@ Brush with duck fat, and season with salt.

@ Bake in 65 °C / 150 °F oven for 40 min.

@ Carve breasts off crown, and cut into slices 1 cm /ys in thick.
Toasted oat jus, warmed 200 g 27% ©Serve with jus.
see page 38
from page 5T32

4 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

COMBI OVEN-STEAMED BROCCOLI Yields 1.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Rice vinegar lOOg 10% @ Whisk together to make pickling brine.
Sherry vinegar lOOg 10% (D Bring to simmer.
Water 64 g 6.4% @ Reserve.
Sugar 28 g 2.8%
Salt 3g 0.3%
Broccoli stems, peeled 40 g 4% @ Combine.
and thinly sliced
® Pour warm brine over broccoli-stem mixture to pickle.
Shallots, thinly sliced 28 g 2.8%
® Cool completely.
Currants 18g 1.8%
@ Reserve.
Broccoli florets 1kg 100% ® Arrange florets in one layer in combi oven steam basket.

® Steam at 90 °C/195 °F and 100% humidity for 8 min, or until desired texture is achieved.
Broccoli, small florets 200 g 20% @ Toss small florets in oil, and place on baking sheet.
Frying oil 50 g 5% @ Oven-fry in combi oven at 270 °C / 520 °F and 0% humidity for 4 min.
@ Drain.

Salt to taste ® Season steamed and fried broccoli.

Pickling brine, to taste @ Strain reserved pickled mixture, reserving brine.
from above ® Toss steamed and fried broccoli with pickles, brine, pumpkin seeds, and chili oil.
Toasted pumpkin seeds 50 g 5%
Chili oil 30 g 3%
see page 29
Salted lardo, frozen and lOOg 10% ® Drape over warm broccoli mix, and serve.
very thinly sliced

from page 2-181

COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 5

STOCKS

® Weigh cold water. Scale all other ingredients relative to the water weight. VARIATION: WHITE STOCK
For every! kg of water, for example, use 200 g of chicken wings and 750 g
of ground chicken meat for chicken stock. Although the amount of water
used is the biggest factor in the yield, the moisture ofthe ingredients ® Follow steps 1 and 2 at left.
used, the cooking time, and the cooking method all affect the yield. @ Blanch bones. Coverthe bones in cold water, and bringto a boil.
@ Mix vegetables and aromatics. See Best Bets for Stock Aromatics on page 8 @ Sweat stock ingredients and aromatics in fat. See the Best Bets for Stocks
for our recommendations. table below for recommended ingredients.
@ Add stock ingredients and water. See the Best Bets for Stocks table below ® Follow steps 3-5 at left.
for our recommendations. You can use more or less waterthan indicated
depending on the purpose ofyourstock.

@ Cook. The table lists suggested cooking methods, times, and

temperatures. If pressure-cooking, set the pressure shown on the gauge
to 1 bar/15 psi. Vacuum seal ingredients before cooking sous vide.

® Rest until pressure cooker has depressurized, about 20 min. Strain.

Best Bets for Stocks

Stock Fat (scaling) Bone (scaling) Meat (scaling) Liquid (scaling)
chicken, duck, frying oil 8% wings 40% ground chicken 75% water 100%
or pigeon
beef suet 5% calf's foot, split 20% ground beef 80% water 100%
red wine 10%
(for brown stock
only)
veal frying oil 5% veal knuckle 50% ground veal 25% water 100%
Madeira 15%
lamb frying oil 5% lamb shoulder 35% ground lamb 100% water 100%
and neck
pork frying oil 7.5% pork ribs 50% ground pork 50% water 100%
white port (dry) 8%
shellfish clarified 5% lobster, shrimp, 65% squid orscallop 20% water 100%
unsalted or crab shells and heads meat (optional) dry vermouth 15%
butter
vegetable vegetable oil 5% n/a n/a water 100%

fish olive oil 10% fish bones 100% n/a water 100%
whitewine 10%
Chinese banquet pork ribs 20% cured ham, 10% water 100%
duck wings 20% thinly sliced Shaoxing wine 5%
chicken wings 15%
Chinese chicken carcass 30% ground pork 40% water 100%
everyday
Japanese chicken carcass 24% ground pork 8% water 100%
chicken feet 6% shoulder
pork trotter 12%
Thai chicken wings 20% ground pork 35% water 100%
pork ribs 12% coconut water 40%
from page 2-296

6 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

VARIATION: SHELLFISH STOCK VARIATION: RICH BROWN STOCK
0 Follow steps 1 and 2 in Stocks, previous page. 0 Weigh water.
0 Saute shellfish, aromatics, and tomato paste in fat on stove top. See the 0 Roast meat, bones, and vegetables. Cook at 190 °C / 375 °F for the time
table below for recommended ingredients. indicated in the table at left. Add tomato paste if desired.
0 Follow steps 3-5 in Stocks. 0 Deglaze roasting pan. Use wine or water.

@ Combine aromatics with roasted ingredients.

© Follow steps 3-5 in Stocks, previous page.

Preparation (brown stock only) (h) Cook (h) (°c) (‘’F)

roast meat and bones Vz pressure-cook V/2 n/a n/a

roast meat and bones 1 pressure-cook 2V2 n/a n/a

roast meat y4 pressure-cook 21/2 n/a n/a

roast meat 1 pressure-cook 11/2 n/a n/a

roast meat and bones 1 pressure-cook 2 n/a n/a

fry shells with tomato paste 10 cook sous vide 3/4 88 190
until golden brown min

saute sliced vegetables 1 cook sous vide 3 85 185

until golden brown
roast bones 20 cook sous vide 11/4 88 190
min

pressure-cook 2 n/a n/a

pressure-cook 11/4 n/a n/a

cook sous vide 11/4 90 194

pressure-cook 11/2 n/a n/a

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 7

Best Bets for Stock Aromatics

Stock Vegetable (scaling)* Herb (scaling)* Spice (scaling)*

vegetable onion 33% parsley 0.75% black peppercorns 0.1%
carrot 25% bay leaf 0.01% coriander seed 0.2%
leek 8% thyme 0.10% star anise 0.2%
tomato, peeled and seeded 8% chive 1.00%
celery 5%
mushroom 5%
poultry onion 6% parsley 0.50% black peppercorns 0.1%
carrot 5% garlic 1%
leek 5%
meat, beef onion 10% thyme 0.8% star anise 0.05%
carrot 10% rosemary 0.15% garlic 1%
celery 2%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5%
game, lamb onion 7% bay leaf 0.01% staranise 1.5%
carrot 7% thyme 1.00% garlic 2%
celery 2% sage 0.20% black peppercorns 0.2%
shellfish carrot 5% parsley 0.25% fennel seed 0.01%
onion 5% thyme 0.10% saffron 0.005%
leek 2% basil 0.20%
fennel 2%
button mushroom 2%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5%
fish carrot 33% n/a garlic 2%
onion 26% coriander seed 0.3%
leek 13% staranise 0.2%
fennel 13%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5%
Chinese banquet scallion 0.2% n/a ginger 0.4%
white peppercorns 0.01%
cinnamon sticks 0.05%
Chinese everyday scallion 1.2% n/a ginger 1%
Japanese onion 3.5% n/a ginger 0.4%
carrot 3.5% garlic 0.75%
scallion 1% kombu 0.1%
bonito flakes 5%
Thai scallion 1% cilantro stalks 0.20% ginger 0.4%
cabbage 1% Thai basil 0.30% garlic 0.5%
fried shallot 4% makrud lime leaf 0.40%
from page 2-298 *(set weight of water to 100%)

8 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SPICED SHELLFISH STOCK Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken wings, chopped 500 g 33% ® Roast together in 230 °C / 450 °F oven until uniformly
Ground pork 500 g 33% golden brown, about 25 min, and reserve.

Dungeness crab (whole) 1.5 kg 100% @ Crush crab shells and meat into smaller pieces.
(about @ Fry in bottom of pressure cooker in oils until golden,
three medium) about 8 min.
Grapeseed oil 150 g 10% @ Remove crab pieces from oil, and reserve crab pieces
Coconut oil 25 g 1.7% and imbued oil.
Leeks, thinly sliced 250 g 17% ® Fry prepared vegetables together with reserved crab
Carrots, peeled and 200 g 13.5% oil in pressure cooker until golden.
thinly sliced ® Add tomato paste.
Green onions. 150 g 10% @ Continue frying until mixture is amber and cooked
thinly sliced tomato flavor develops, about 3 min.
Shallots, thinly sliced 150 g 10%
Tomato paste 50 g 3.5%
Water 1.5 kg 100% ® Deglaze pressure cooker.
Carrot juice 100 g 7%
(from 250 g
carrots)
Shaoxing wine 82.5 g 5.5%
Star anise 1.8g 0.12% @ Combine, and place in sachet.
Black peppercorns 0.8 g 0.05% @ Combine reserved pork and chicken mixture.
Grains of paradise 0.6 g 0.04% vegetable mixture, and crab pieces in pressure
cooker.
Corianderseeds 0.4 g 0.03%
® Add sachet, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
Cardamom pod 0.3 g 0.02%
1 bar / 15 psi for 1 h.

@ Strain, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-186

PAELLA STOCK Yields 750 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Rabbit trimmings 350 g 35% ® Brown in 190 °C / 375 °F oven until golden, about
Rabbit carcass 335 g 34% 25 min.

Yellow onions, 125 g 12% @ Sweat onions until translucent, aboutS min.
thinly sliced
Grapeseed oil lOOg 10%

Tomatoes, peeled lOOg 10% @ Add to onions, and saute vegetable mixture until
and seeded golden, about 7 min.
Carrots, thinly sliced 75 g 7.5%
Leeks, thinly sliced 60 g 6%

Fennel, thinly sliced 55 g 5.5%

Piquillo peppers, 40 g 4%
thinly sliced
Pimenton de la Vera 6g 0.6%
(sweet)
Thyme 2.25 g 0.2%

Water 1kg 100% @ Combine in pressure cooker with browned rabbit

White chicken stock 550 g 55% pieces and vegetable mixture.
see page 11 © Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi
fori h.

© Cool.
@ Strain through fine sieve.

® Refrigerate until use.

from page 5-240

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 9

TRIPLE DUNGENESS CRAB AND PORK STOCK INFUSION Yields 850 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Dungeness crab, chopped 1.35 kg 135% (T) Panfry until golden brown, aboutl5 min.
Chicken wings, 1 kg 100% @ Remove from pan, and reserve.
finely chopped
Ground pork 650 g 65%
Grapeseed oil 315 g 31.5%
Scallions, thinly sliced 400 g 40% @ Add to pan used for meat, and saute vegetables until lightly browned.
Carrots, peeled and thinly 280 g 28%
sliced
Leeks, thinly sliced 280 g 28%
Fennel, thinly sliced 246 g 24.6%
Shallots, thinly sliced 135 g 13.5%
Tomato paste 50 g 5% @ Add to vegetables, and continue to saute until mixture is golden brown, about 4 min.

Sake lOg 1% © Deglaze pan of vegetable mixture with sake.

Water 1kg 100% © Add water and reserved browned crab, chicken, and pork mixture.
@ Pressure-cook mixture at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi fori h.
© Cool, and then strain through fine sieve, yielding about 850 g of stock.

Star anise, lightly crushed Ig 0.1% © Bring stock to boil, and remove from heat.
Cinnamon stick 0.4 g 0.04% @ Add spices, and steep for 1 min.
Black peppercorns 0.3 g 0.03% @ Strain through fine sieve.
Sugar 3g 0.3% @ Whisk sugar into stock infusion until dissolved.

@ Cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-254

BROWN BEEF STOCK Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef chuck, finely ground 200 g 40% © Vacuum seal.
© Cook sous vide in 90 °C /194 °F bath until juices are released, about 1 h.
@ Strain, reservingjuice; discard meat.
® Cool beef juice, and reserve.
Oxtail, thinly sliced 500 g 100% © Roast oxtail with suet in 190 °C/375 °F oven until oxtail is brown, about 30 min.
on a band saw © Discard excess fat.
Rendered beef suet 75 g 15%
@ Cool and reserve.
Water 500 g 100% © Combine in pressure cooker with beef juice and oxtail.
Red wine (full-bodied) lOOg 10% © Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 2/2 h.

Carrots, peeled and 50 g 10% ® Strain.

thinly sliced @ Cool.
Yellow onions, peeled 50 g 10% ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
and thinly sliced
Celery, peeled and 20 g 4%
thinly sliced
Leeks, whites only, 20 g 4%
thinly sliced
Red port (dry) 20 g 4%

Parsley leaves lOg 2%

Thyme Ig 0.2%

Bay leaf 0.5 g 0.1%

from page 2-301

1 0 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

BROWN VEAL STOCK Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Veal knuckle and neck bones, 500 g 50% @ Cover with water.
sawed into 5 cm /2 in pieces,
@ Bringto boil, skimming often,
if possible
@ Drain, discarding water.
Neutral oil 75 g 7.5% @ Coat bones with oil.
® Roast in 190 °C / 375 °F oven until golden brown, about 30 min.

® Reserve bones, and discard excess oil.

Veal trimmings, finely ground 500 g 50% @ Combine on nonstick baking sheet.
Neutral oil 50 g 5% ® Roast in 190 °C / 375 °F oven until evenly brown, about 20 min.

@ Strain, and reserve meat.

Unsalted butter 15 g 1.5% @ Melt butter in pressure cooker.
Sweet onions, peeled 50 g 5% @ Add vegetables to pressure cooker.
and thinly sliced @ Cook uncovered, stirring frequently, until moisture has evaporated and vegetables
Carrots, peeled and thinly 25 g 2.5% are tender, about 7 min.
sliced
Leek, thinly sliced 25 g 2.5%
Tomato confit 40 g 4% ® Add to pressure cooker, and increase heat to high.
see page 179
@ Saute vegetables and confit uncovered, stirring constantly until brown, about 4 min.

Water 1kg 100% @ Add to pressure cooker with bones and meat.
Vodka 20 g 2% ® Pressure-cook mixture at gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for2'/2 h.
Parsley leaves 3g 0.3% ® Cool.
Black peppercorns, crushed Ig 0.1% @ Strain.

® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-300

PRESSURE-COOKED WHITE CHICKEN STOCK Yieids400g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken wing meat and bones. 350 g 70% ® Cover with cold water.
chopped @ Bring to boil, and then drain chicken
immediately. Alternatively, for brown stock,
roast wings and bones, and fry ground
chicken until golden brown.

Water 500 g 100% @ Combine with blanched chicken in pressure

Chicken thigh meat, finely ground 350 g 70% cooker.

Sweet onions, peeled and 50 g 10% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar/

thinly sliced 15 psi foriy2 h.

Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 5% ® Strain through fine sieve.

25 g
Leeks, thinly sliced 25 g 5% ® Cool.

Garlic, thinly sliced 1% @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

5g
Parsley leaves and stems 1g 0.2%

Black peppercorns 0.5 g 0.1%

from page 2-301

Yields 650 g
ONION STOCK
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PRQCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 400 g 100% @ Saute onions over medium-high heat, stirring

Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 12,5% frequently until golden, about 15 min.

Water 500 g 125% @ Simmer with sauteed onions fori h.

Vermouth (dry) 30 g 7.5% @ Strain.

@ Cool, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-264

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN n

 HOW TO MAKE STOCK SOUS VIDE
© Prepare ingredients. Grind meat finely, and slice vegetables thinly. @ Cavitate in ultrasonic cleaning bath for30 min (optional). Ifthe ultrasonic
Use ratios recommended in the table of Best Bets for Stocks on page 6. bath has a temperature setting, put it at the highest degree available,
Roast bones. typically 60 °C /140 °F.
@ Vacuum seal ingredients together. ® Refrigerate for12 h, and then strain.
© Cooksous vide in BS^C/IBS-P bath for3 h. ©Vacuum seal again, and refrigerate or freeze until needed.

SOUS VIDE FISH STOCK

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fish bones, cleaned and rinsed 2 kg 133% @ Panfry bones until golden.
Neutral oil 50 g 3%
Vermouth 350 g 23% @ Deglaze bones.
White wine (dry) 200 g 13% @ Cool mixture completely, and reserve.
Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 500 g 33% @ Prepare vegetables as noted.
Onions, peeled and thinly sliced 400 g 27% © Combine, and cook until soft.
Fennel, thinly sliced 200 g 13% © Cool completely.

Leeks, thinly sliced 200 g 13%

Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 30 g 2%
Neutral oil 20 g 1.5%
Water 1.5 kg 100% @ Combine with bones and vegetables.
Coriander seeds 5g 0.3% ® Vacuum seal.
Star anise 2.5 g 0.17% ® Cook sous vide in 80‘’C/176°F bath forlVi h.
@ Strain.
@ Cool.

_@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-303

12 VOLUME ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

sous VIDE VEGETABLE STOCK Yieidsssog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 500 g 100% ® Prepare vegetables as noted.
Onions, peeled and 280 g 56% @ Combine.
thinly sliced
@ Vacuum seal.
Carrots, peeled and 200 g 40%
® Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for3 h.
thinly sliced
® Transfer to ultrasonic cleaning bath, and cavitate for 30 min to improve extraction.
Celery, peeled and lOOg 20%
If unavailable, proceed with remaining steps.
thinly sliced
® Cool, and refrigerate for 12 h.
Leeks, whites only, lOOg 20%
@ Strain.
thinly sliced
® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Button mushrooms, 50 g 10%
thinly sliced

Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, 50 g 10%

and chopped
Chives lOg 2%
Parsley lOg 2%
Coriander seeds 1.5g 0.3%
Black peppercorns Ig 0.2%

Thyme Ig 0.2%
Bay leaf 0.5 g 0,1%
Star anise 0.5 g 0.1%
from page 2-303

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 13

BROTH
© Select a broth from the table. BcSt B0tS foT BrOths
©Prepare and scale the liquid, meat, Broth Stock (scaling) Meat (scaling)
vegetables, and aromat.cs. weights m pot-au-feu white beef stock* 100% oxtail, chopped 30%
the table are proportional to the liquid
scaled to 100%. Forexample, to make vegetable stock* 50% short rib meat, ground 20%

dashi, for every 100 g of water used, madeira 4%

add 5.2 e of bonito flakes and 2.5 e ot i i ,..1 ... i/^rvo/
, , ^ ^ ham broth water 100% prosciutto, thinly sliced 62.5%
kombu.
madeira 25% ham, thinly sliced 25%
@ Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of ^ ,
Ti III lino sherry iy% Iberico ham, thinly sliced 25%

sous vide. Recommended cooking game broth brown chicken stock* 100% venison, ground, roasted 50%
methods, temperatures, and times gjn 1q% pigeon wings, roasted 12%
are given in the table. , . pheasant trimmings, 10%
red wine 10%
@ Sieve. blanched

capon broth white chicken stock* 100% capon meat, ground 30%
white wine (dry) 25%

salt cod broth water 100% salt cod skins, soaked for 20%
12 h in cold water

When making dashi, the bonito flakes dashi water 100% bonito flakes 5.2%
are added only after the kombu has i u . ir>no/
, , / , pho broth water 100% beef knuckles, roasted 44%
been cooked sous vide.
oxtail, jointed and seared 18%

Chinese ginger Chinese fish stock** 100% n/a n/a

soy fish broth Shaoxing wine 1.5%
light soy sauce 1.5%
"Marmite broth" red wine 750%** n/a n/a
adapted from water 100%
Heston Blumenthal

from page 2'304 *[seepage 6) **(reduced to 250%)

BORSCHT BROTH Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Red beetjuice 200 g 100% © Vacuum seal together.
Water nog 55% © Cooksous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for30 min.
White fish stock 90 g 45% @ Pass through fine sieve.
see page 6
Rhubarb juice 16g 8%
Red wine vinegar 8g 4%
Caraway seeds, finely to taste @ Warm borscht broth, and season.
ground
Salt to taste

from page 5-235

14 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 Cook
Vegetable (scaling) Aromatic (scaling) Method (h) (°C) (“F) See page
carrot 10% clove 0.01% pressure-cook 2 n/a n/a
turnip, thinly sliced 10% bay leaf 0.05%
onion, thinly sliced 8%
shallot, thinly sliced 25% black pepper 2.50% pressure-cook V/2 n/a n/a next page
garlic, thinly sliced 12.5% sherry vinegar to taste

whole onion 5% juniper berries. 0.2% pressure-cook 1 n/a n/a 72

carrot, thinly sliced 5% crushed
celery, thinly sliced 2% sage, thinly sliced 0.1%

shallot, thinly sliced 15% Parmesan, grated 10% cook sous vide 2 88 192 27
cinnamon extract 3%
sage, thinly sliced 0.15%

onion, thinly sliced 20% thyme 0.2% cook sous vide 3 90 196
garlic, thinly sliced 10%
kombu 2.5% n/a cook sous vide 1 60 140 below, 241
whole onion, charred 24% black pepper 0.04% pressure-cook 11/2 n/a n/a next page
ginger, charred 5% star anise 0.02%
cinnamon 0.02%
allspice 0.01%
scallion 3% Szechuan pepper 0.05% cook sous vide 35 min 80 176
ginger 2% rice vinegar to taste
chili 0.05% honey to taste
leek, thinly sliced 1,000% black pepper to taste cook sous vide 45 min 80 176
carrot, thinly sliced 500% Marmite to taste
onion, thinly sliced 1,000% sherry vinegar to taste

HON DASHI ADAPTED FROM YOSHIHIRO MURATA Yields360g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 475 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
Rishiri kombu, or best quality 12 g 2.5% @ Cook sous vide in 60 °C/140 °F bath fori h.
seaweed available (brown kelp) @ Cool, and refrigerate for 2 h. The kombu flavor can be increased
® Strain. by extending the refrigerator time
from 2 h to as long as 12 h. The
Bonito flakes (katsuobushi) 25 g 5.3% ® Heat broth to 85 °C /185 °F.
longerthe time, the stronger
® Add bonito flakes, and steep for 10 s. the flavor.
@ Strain.
® Cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.

from page 2-306

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 15

 HAM BROTH Yields535g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 500 g 100% ® Prepare ingredients as noted.
Prosciutto ends, thinly sliced 250 g 50% ® Combine in pressure cooker.
Cooked white ham, 100 g 20% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi
Any cured meat can be used here thinly sliced forlV2 h.
instead of ham. Jamon Iberico, thinly sliced lOOg 20% @ Strain.
Madeira 100 g 20% ® Cool completely.
Shallots, thinly sliced 100 g 20% ® Measure 500 g.
Fino sherry 75 g 15%
Garlic, thinly sliced 50 g 10%
Black peppercorns, crushed lOg 2%
Ham broth, from above 500 g 100% @ Disperse gelatin and gum in cold broth.
160 Bloom gelatin 4g 0.8% ® Heat broth just enough to dissolve gelatin.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.75 g 0.15%
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste @ Season and cool.
Sherry vinegar to taste ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
from page 2-306

OXTAIL PHO BROTH Yields 4.75 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Black peppercorns 2g 0.04% ® Combine.
The sachet is a pouch made of Cinnamon stick Ig 0.02% ©Toastspice mix.
cheesecloth that keeps the spice Star anise, ground 0.02%
Ig @ Place in sachet made of cheesecloth.
mixture together in much the same
Allspice 0.5 g 0.01%
way that a tea bag holds tea leaves.
Water 5 kg 100% ® Combine in pressure cooker.
The broth can be made without the
sachet, butthen you will have to Beef knuckles, blanched 2.2 kg 44% ® Add sachet.
filter out the loose spice mix to get White onions, whole, unpeeled, 1.2 kg 24% ® Pressure-cook broth at gauge pressure of
a perfectly clear broth. and charred 1 bar/15 psi fori'A h.
Oxtail, jointed and seared 900 g 18% @ Discard sachet.
Ginger, halved and charred 250 g 5%
Fish sauce to taste ® Season and cool.
Salt to taste ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
Sugar to taste
from page 2-307

DUCK BROTH WITH VANILLA AND BAY LEAF Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Duck meat, finely ground 400 g 400% @ Brown together lightly in pressure cooker.
Duck wings, chopped 100 g 100% about 10 min.

Duck fat 30 g 30%

Shallots, thinly sliced 125 g 125% @ Add to duck parts, and cook until translucent.
Leeks, thinly sliced 75 g 75%
White port (dry) 150 g 150% @ Add to duck parts, and reduce to 225 g.
White wine 150 g 150%
Water 700 g 700% @ Place with duck reduction in pressure cooker, and
Vanilla bean seeds 1.5g 1.5% pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi
Bay leaf forl'/2 h.
0.5 g 0.5%
® Strain through fine sieve.
Limejuice to taste ® Season and serve broth, or cool and refrigerate until
Salt to taste use.

from page 5-110

1 6 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

LAKSA BROTH Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Onions, peeled and chopped 100 g 28% @ Prepare ingredients as noted.
Lemongrass, finely minced 40 g 11% @ Blend together in food processor. . • • r • i. ■
^ ^ Laksa IS one of the great dishes
Candlenuts, roasted and grated 30 g 8.3% @ Measure 28 g of paste, reserving the rest. of the Peranakan culture that
Shrimp paste 20 g 5.5% merges Chinese and Malay
Dried chili 1.4% traditions. Many feel that the best
5g
laksa is found in the food-hawking
Galangal, peeled and chopped 5g 1.4%
centers of Singapore.
Turmeric (fresh), peeled 0.7 g 0.2%
and chopped
Laksa paste, from above 28 g 7.8% @ Saute until golden and very fragrant.
Neutral oil 20 g 5.5% about3 min.

White fish stock 360 g 100% ® Transfer paste to large pot, and whisk
see page 6 in stock and cream.
Caramelized coconut cream 100 g 28% ® Simmer broth for5 min.
see page 214

Fish sauce to taste @ Season and cool.

Lime juice to taste ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.

from page 2-307

BOUILLABAISSE BROTH Yields 750 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomatoes, peeled, seeded. 120 g 13% ® Prepare vegetables as noted.

and diced @ Combine.
White onions, thinly sliced 115 g 13% @ Cook over low heat until tenderand golden.
Fennel, thinly sliced 100 g 11% about 25 min.
Shallots, thinly sliced 85 g 9.5%

Leeks, thinly sliced 80 g 9%

Carrots, thinly sliced 75 g 8%

Olive oil 50 g 5.5%

Carlic, thinly sliced 25 g 3%
Tomato confit, pureed 60 g 7% @ Add, and increase heatto medium high.
(ortomato paste) ® Saute until browned, about 5 min, and
see page 179
reserve.

Fish bones and head 800 g 89% ® Coat bones in oil.

Neutral oil 75 g 8% ® Bake in 180 °C/325 °F oven until golden.

about 45 min.

® Cool.

Water 900 g 100% @ Combine with vegetable mixture and fish

White wine (dry) 200 g 22% parts.

Pastis 50 g 5.5% @ Vacuum seal.

Thyme 0.33% ® Cook sous vide in 80 °C / 175 “F bath

3g
for 1 Va h.
Black peppercorns, crushed Ig 0.1%
@ Strain.
Bay leaf 0.6 g 0.06%
® Cool.
Saffron threads 0.3 g 0.003%
@ Skim fat from surface.

Blood orangejuice 17g 2% ® Season.

Red miso paste 13 g 1.4% ® Cool.

Blood orange zest, finely grated Ig 0.1% ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.

Salt to taste

from page 2-308

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 1 7

 BACON DASHI INSPIRED BY DAVID CHANG Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 100% @ Vacuum seal together.

Kombu 25 g 2.5% @ Cook sous vide in 60 °C /140 °F bath for 1 h.

@ Strain out kombu.

The quality of the bacon used Bacon, thinly sliced 250 g 25% @ Vacuum seal with kombu-infused water.
determines the quality of the final Sake (dry), flamed off 30 g 3% ® Cooksous vide in 85 “0/185 °F bath fori h 30 min.
dashi. ® Strain out bacon.

Mirin lOg 1% @ Combine.

Soy sauce lOg 1% ® Adjust seasoning as needed.

Sake 6g 0.6%

Sugar 1.4g 0.14%

from page 2-308

Yields 750 g
TOM YUM BROTH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, chopped 160 g 32% © Prepare ingredients as noted.

Lemongrass, bruised and 78 g 15.6% @ Combi ne in blender.

sliced thinly @ Puree.
Palm sugar 60 g 12% @ Measu re 100 g of paste.
Tamarind paste 60 g 12%

Garlic, chopped 50 g 10%

Ginger, peeled and cut 45 g 9%

into coin shapes
Cilantro stems, washed 40 g 8%
and chopped
Galangal, peeled and chopped 40 g 8%

Belacan shrimp paste lOg 2%

Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf, bruised 8g 1.6%

Bird's Thai chili, chopped 5g 1%

Neutral oil as needed ® Saute paste until dry and very fragrant, about 5 min.

Shrimp stock (or vegetable stock)1 500 g 100% ® Whisk into sauteed paste in large pot, and bring to simmer.
see page 6

Palm sugar 20 g 4% @ Season.

Fish sauce 7g 1.4% ® Cool.

Salt 2g 0.4% @ Vacuu m seal, and refrigerate until needed.

Lime juice to taste

from page 2-309

CURED HAM BROTH Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 50 g 16.7% © Saute onions and leeks in oil until translucent.

Olive oil 25 g 8.3%

Leeks, thinly sliced 21 g 7%

Dry-cured ham, thinly 50 g 16.7% ® Add to onion and leek mixture, and saute forS min.
sliced
Garlic, thinly sliced 5-5 g 1.8%

Brown pork stock 300 g 100% @ Combine with sauteed mixture.

see page 6
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi fori h.
Salt 1-2 g 0.4%
® Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
Thyme 0.3 g 0.1%
® Season, and serve or refrigerate until use.

from page 5-84

18 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

BAKED POTATO BROTH Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Russet potato skins 100 g 100% @ Coat skins with oil.
Frying oil 20 g 20% @ Bake in 95 °C / 200 °F oven for 7 h, until golden and completely desiccated,

©Cool.
Russet potatoes, peeled and 75 g 75% @ Panfry over medium-high heat until deep golden, about 15 min on each side.
thinly sliced
©Cool.
Clarified unsalted butter 15g 15%
Potato juice, decanted from 300 g 300% ® Vacuum seal with cooked potato skins and slices.
starch residue (from 700 g @ Cook sous vide in 80 °C/176 °F bath fori’A h.
of potatoes)
® Strain.
Water 300 g 300%
Salt to taste @ Season and cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
from page 2-309

GOULASH BROTH Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato confit lOOg 17% @ Panfry confit with oil, stirring constantly to prevent
see page 179 burning, until dark, aboutlO min.
Grapeseed oil 50 g 8.5%
Red bell pepperjuice 120 g 20% © Deglaze pan.
(from 300 g © Measure 250 g of mixture, and reserve.
red bell peppers)
Red onions, thinly sliced 600 g 100% ® Cook onions slowly in suet until deep amberand dry.
Rendered suet 100 g 17% about 45 min. If pan becomes too dry, add small
amount of water to prevent onions from becoming
too dark.
Brown beef stock 800 g 133% © Combine all ingredients with both reserved tomato
see page 10 confit mixture and reduced onions.
Caraway seeds, toasted 3.5 g 0.6% ® Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 21/2 h.
Black peppercorns. 3g 0.5% @ Strain through fine sieve.
toasted
® Clarify with centrifuge at 27,500^ for 1 h.
Sweet paprika 2g 0,3%
@ Refrigerate until chilled.
Hot paprika 1.25 g 0.2%
® Measure 25 g of fat from surface of broth; reserve fat
Black cumin seeds, 0,5g 0.08% and broth separately.
toasted
Cumin seeds, toasted 0,5g 0.08%
Sherry vinegar 45 g 7.5% @ Season broth.
Sugar 6g 1%

Salt to taste

from page 5-56

MUSHROOM BROTH Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, thinly sliced 37 g 25% ® Saute until golden, aboutlS min.

Olive oil 8.5 g 6%

Water 250 g 180% © Pressure-cook with shallots at gauge pressure of

1 bar/15 psi for 45 min.
Crimini mushrooms, 140 g 100%
thinly sliced © Strain and cool.

from page 5-14

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 19

INFUSING FLAVOR INTO A LIQUID

® Combine ingredient with cold liquid. Quantities in the table Best Bets for Infused Liquids
below are proportional to the weight of the liquid. For example, to infuse rice vinegar
with lemongrass, add 50 g of thinly sliced lemongrass for every 100 g of vinegar.
@ Vacuum seal (optional), and cook. Recommended cooking methods, temperatures,
and times are given in the table. Sieve.

Best Bets for Infused Liquids

Infusion
Ingredient (scaling)* Method (“O (°F) (h) Example use See page
cured bacon, thinly sliced 30% cook sous vide 85 185 2 bacon water
black pepper, crushed 0.50% infuse sous vide 3 37 12
chili, dried 2% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 Chinese broth
cinnamon, finely crushed 3% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 cinnamon dashi 254
coffee, ground 7% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 beef jus
ginger, thinly sliced 120% blend, infuse 3 37 12 Chinese broth
juniper, crushed 7% cook sous vide 70 148 15 min game broth
lemon zest, grated 10% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 broth for pasta
lemongrass, thinly sliced 50% cook sous vide 85 185 20 min Thai or Vietnamese broth
lemon verbena 30% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 lemon verbena sponge 318
licorice root, grated 5% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 broth for foie gras
mushroom, dried 6% cook sous vide 60 140 20 min mushroom cappuccino 320
nutmeg, grated 0.2% infuse sous vide 3 37 12
Parmesan cheese, grated 80% cook sous vide 85 185 12 Parmesan water
prosciutto, thinly sliced 30% cook sous vide 80 176 2 prosciutto water
saffron threads 1.5% infuse sous vide 3 37 24 tomato vinegar 315
star anise, crushed 3% infuse sous vide 3 37 12
tarragon 20% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 beurre blanc, fish broth
tea, black 3% ultrasonic bath 85 185 5 min bergamot sabayon 319
tea, green 2% infuse sous vide 3 37 12
tea, white 4% cook sous vide 70 158 7 min
paprika, finely ground 2% infuse sous vide 3 37 3 goulash
young pine buds 8% boil and refrigerate 3 37 12 citrus seafood broth
vanilla 1.5% infuse sous vide 3 37 24 broth for foie gras 5-109
from page 2-310 *(set weight of liquid to 100%)

20 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers
When cooks judge the flavor balance and seasoning of besides sprinkling salt crystals over your food: anchovies,
a dish, salt is typically checked first. Get the salt level wrong, dried scallops, and shrimp paste all layer on tastes of the
and diners will quickly be distracted from their enjoyment sea and the shore. Ingredients such as bacons, hams, and
of the food. Table salt enhances our perception of flavor, cheeses carry hints of the country, barnyard, and some-
and so do nucleotides and monosodium glutamate (MSG), times smoke. Soy sauce, fish sauce, miso, and natto are
which are savory salts that trigger different taste receptors all fermented seasoning agents, and each has a certain
than salt does. You can enhance flavor in many ways tanginess and vegetal quality.
Salts Taste Aroma (scaling)* Note

salt defines salty none 0.5%-2.0% most useful flavor enhancer in the kitchen; most
people find 0.75-1% best for savory foods

monosodium defines umami none 0.1%-2.0% found naturally in all high-protein foods; some
glutamate (also called savory) people find >1% harsh and metallic-tasting

5' savory none 0.02% found naturally in most foods; boosts existing
ribonucleotides savory flavors

Seasonings

aged cheese salty, sharp, acidic, varies greatly 3%-10% hard cheeses like Parmesan contain both salt and
strongly savory glutamate

anchovy salty and oily fishy; roasted scent when 0.2%-0.8% used as a seasoning since the time of Imperial Rome
cooked

bacon salty smoky, fried, meaty 3%-15% can quickly overwhelm a dish

capers salty, slightly bitter mustard oil, hint of thyme 2% add at the last moment; high heat degrades aromas
(salt-packed) and astringent

cured meats salty, strongly savory, varies greatly; often nutty, 5%-15% use with moderation; combination of salt, sugar, fat,
slightly sweet fruity, and floral and Maillard flavors with smoke aromas is powerful

dried scallops slightly sweet pungent, slightly fishy, cured 3%-5% used primarily in Asian cooking

fish sauce salty, strongly savory, pungent, slightly fishy 2%-10% adds depth and savory flavor; tastes better
slightly sweet than it smells; a favorite in ancient Rome

garlic pungent, slightly sulfurous l%-7% when garlic is crushed and raw or lightly cooked,
sweet, enhances its allicin compounds trigger pain and temperature
savory receptors in the mouth, thereby enhancing flavors

Marmite or salty, strongly savory yeasty, meaty, malted 0.3%-1.5% adds meat-like flavors to vegetarian dishes
Vegemite

miso, red slightly sweet, savory strong, roasted, hint of cocoa l%-8% includes all three primary salts listed above;
pungency varies with degree of fermentation
miso, white mild, caramel, toasty l%-8%

natto salty, savory pungent, fermented, roasted, 1%

cheesy

shallots pungent, slightly sulfurous 5%-30% similarto garlic but does not cause onion breatb
sweet, enhances because sulfurous compounds do not enter
savory bloodstream

shrimp paste salty, slightly sweet, pungent, slightly fishy, cured l%-3% used primarily in Southeast Asian cooking
savory

soy, dark salty, slightly sweet, strong, fermented, roasted, 2%-5% tastes and aromas vary greatly among styles and
mildly astringent molasses brands

soy, white mellow, slightly sweet, floral 2%-5%

tomato sweet, acidic, savory fruity, musky, sometimes 5%-9% rich source of sugars, acids, and salts when ripe;
floral enhances roasted aromas when browned with
meats

Worcestershire salty, sweet, savory, fermented, roasted, 2%-5% has many applications; underused as a seasoning;

sauce acidic, slightly spicy molasses, spicy, vinegary a distant relative of Roman fish sauce (garum)

from page 2-312 *(set weight of food being seasoned to 100%)

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 21

 SOUS VIDE PONZU ADAPTED FROM KYLE CONNAUCHTON Yields 1.95 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yuzu 120 g 17% ® Crate zest, and juice flesh.
(about
four whole)
Sudachi (optional) 35 g 5% As it does for vegetable stocks,
Mirin 700 g 100% @ Combine in pan, and simmer until reduced to putting a broth in an ultrasonic bath

Sake 65 g 9.5% about 80% of original volume. for30 minutes improves flavor
extraction. This should be done
Kombu (Rishiri if available) 15 g 2% @ Toast over open flame on all sides.
after the sous vide cooking step.
Tamari soy sauce 550 g 79% @ Combine with citrus zest and juice, kombu, and
Red rice vinegar (yusen) 525 g 75% reduced mirin-sake mixture.

Shoyu soy sauce (usu-kuchi 110 g 16% ® Vacuum seal.

shoyu) ® Refrigerate for 3 weeks.
Bonito flakes (katsuobushi) lOg 1.4% @ Strain.

® Use immediately, orvacuum seal and

refrigerate until needed.
from page 2-313

Best Bets for Lowering pH

Ingredient Typical pH Flavor profile Example uses
Vinegar (pH 2.4-3.4)
cider vinegar 2.4 sharp, apple salad dressing, marinade, coagulation

malt vinegar 2.4 bittersweet, hops, caramel sauce, marinade

red wine vinegar 2.4 currant, tannic dressing

rice vinegar 2.8 sweet, subtle, toasty salad dressing, marinade, coagulation

sherry vinegar 3.4 sweet, oak, cherry, earthy salad dressing, finishing meat sauce

white wine vinegar 2.8 clean, bright, green grape salad dressing, fish broth, butter sauce

Citrus (pH 1.8-3.9)

grapefruit juice 3.7 floral, light citrus, coffee finishing sauces, seasoning seafood dishes

lemon juice 2.3 bright, perfumed dressing, sauce, balancing oil

lime juice 1.8-2 sharp, coconut, pine sour broth, finishing fruit and vegetable water

orange juice 3.9 sweet, neroli mellows otheracids

Pure acids (diluted 1:10 with water; pH 2.4-2.9)

acetic acid (vinegar) 2.9 pungent wine sauce, dressing

ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 2.9 crisp color preservative

citric acid (citrus) 2.4 sharp, citrus fruity sauce for fish

lactic acid (dairy) 2.6 buttermilk, sour cream dairy applications, enhancing fermented flavors
for quick kimchi and sauerkraut

malic acid (apple, cherry) 2.4 tangy with light fruit notes finishing glaze, sauce, raw fruit sauce, and water

tartaric acid (grape) 2.4 heavy acidity, light flavor reduction, wine sauce, fruit sauce

Tart fruit (pH 2.5-4.2)

red currant 3.1 tannic, bitter, berry glaze or sauce for red meat, game

rhubarb juice 3.4 astringent, herbal, mellows when cooked sauce or broth for fish, foie gras

tamarind paste 3.7 sour, caramel, pungent sauce, sweets, dressing, broth

tomato juice 4.2 earthy, complex, vegetable vegetable broth, dressing

verjus 2.7 tannic, grape must finishing sauce (best used raw)

gooseberryjuice 2.6 bitter, sour, floral dressing for shellfish and oysters
from page 2-314

22 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

Typical Acid Concentrations
For seasoning For souring For vinaigrettes For pickles
Acid type (pH5.5-6.5) (pH4.0-4.5) (pH3.0-3.8) (pH2.3-3.0)

kitchen acids 0.2%-0.5% l%-3% 3%-6% 5%-10%

citrus juice 1%-3% 5%-15% 10%-100% 65%-100%

astringent fruit 3%-10% 10%-50% 10%-60% 65%-100%

vinegar l%-5% 25%-75% 30%-100% 50%-100%

Kitchen acids include ascorbic, acetic, citric, lactic, malic, and tartaric acids. Note that the wide
ranges in this table are due to variations in the initial pH and in the buffering capacity ofthe food.

SEAWEED VINEGAR Yieids250g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

Cidervinegar 200 g 100% ® Combine. Japanese flavor combinations often

26 g 13% @ Bringto simmer. include multiple variations on the

Muscovado sugar

Palm sugar 16g 8% @ Stir mixture until sugar is dissolved, and reserve
umami flavor theme. In this recipe,
different soy sauces and kombu
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 1% warm.
provide umami notes, which are
and crushed balanced by the bright yuzu citrus
Kombu, shredded, soaked 30 g 15% @ Combine, and add to vinegar mixture.
flavors.
for 45 min in warm water. ® Vacuum seal and steep at room temperature
and drained for12h.
Ginger, grated 3g 1.5% ® Strain.

Whiskey lOg 5% @ Whisk into strained vinegar.

Salt to taste ® Season.

from page 2-315

Yields 700 g
ELDER ELOWER VINEGAR
Many foods have compounds in
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE them that will react with any acid
White wine vinegar 500 g 100% ® Whisk together. you add, which tends to neutralize

170 g 34% ® Vacuum seal. the acid. Chemists call this prop¬
Elder blossoms,
thoroughly washed erty buffering. A food with a high
@ Infuse refrigerated for at least 1 week.
Malt vinegar 100 g 20% ® Strain.
buffering capacity requires more
acid to be added to reach a given
Rice vinegar lOOg 20% ® Use to dress salads or as condiment for raw shellfish. level offinal aciditythan one with
Sugar 65 g 13% a low buffering capacity. Because

Malic acid 2g 0.4% this capacity varies from food to

food, it is hard to give precise
from page 2-315
numbers on how much acid to
add. A pH meter is the best way
PASSION ERUIT-WHITE SOY SAUCE VINAIGRETTE Yieidszog to achieve consistency.

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Passion fruit juice 55 g 100% ® Mix together until malic acid is fully dissolved.

White soy sauce 10.5 g 19% @ Refrigerate until use.

Limejuice 7g 13%

Jalapefio, brunoise 3g 5.5%

Malic acid 1g 1.8%

from page 5183

23
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
CONSTRUCTED RED WINE GLAZE Yields 65 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Blackberries (fresh) 100 g 100% © Vacuum seal.
Blueberries (fresh) 50 g 50% @ Cook sous vide in 65 °C/149 °F bath fori h.
@ Cool and puree.

® Pass through fine sieve.

Verjuice (store-bought) 50 g 50% ® Blend well with 50 g of berry puree.
Kalamata olive brine (from store-bought olives) 2g 2.0% ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
Tannin powder (Obipektin brand Enocianin-A) 1.5g 1.5%
Tartaric acid 1.0%
Ig
Fructose 0.5 g 0.5%
Oak chips, grated 0.25 g 0.25%
Malic acid 0.2 g 0.2%
Unsalted butter, cold 5g 5% @ Warm wine glaze, and whisk in cold butter until fully emulsified. Check
Salt to taste salt and acidity; add salt if needed.
from page 5-221

Best Bets for Adding Elavor with Alcohol

Broth Sauce
See
Ingredient (scaling)* (scaling)* Characteristic aromas Alcohol content Example uses page
aquavit 2%-7% 10%-30% caraway, fennel high finishing raw, cold items
Armagnac l%-5% 10%-30% smoke, oak high glaze, sauce, adding body 347
and subtle flavors
beerorale 10%-20% 15%-40% malt, barley, bitter low meat sauce, glaze, adding grain 42
flavors and bitterness
Cognac 2%-6% 10%-30% smoke, oak, tobacco high glaze, sauce, adding body 109
and subtle flavors
gin r/o-5% 10%-30% juniper, pine, cassia high marinade and game sauce, adding 109
spice
Madeira 5%-10% 20% pepper, plum low to moderate sauce with dairy or mushrooms,
adding sweetness and fruit flavors
pastis l%-5% l%-5% anise, licorice, sugar moderate seafood broth, soup
port, red 10%-20% 15%-40% cherry, berry, oak low to moderate broth and sauce 212
port, white 15%-40% 15%-100% pear, sour grape low to moderate broth, sauce, adding sweetness 16
sake 5%-16% 25%-75% light pepper, honeydew low fish broth, adding sweetness and a 5-197
little spice
Shaoxing 3%-15% 10%-30% sweet rice, floral low to moderate pork, fish sauce, adding 5-167
acidity and sweetness
sherry, dry 3%-8% 15%-40% almond, hazelnut low to moderate shellfish broth, adding body and 5-31
tannins
sherry, sweet 5%-10% 5%-20% cherry, currant moderate glaze broth, adding sweetness and
complexity
vermouth 5%-20% 15%-40% chamomile, cardamom moderate to high fish broth, sauce, enhancing flavors 5-233
vin jaune 2%-20% 25%-74% walnut, almond, melon low to moderate broth, sauce, adding acidity and 5-113
body
whiskey 7%-10% 20%-60% smoke, leather, vanilla, high glaze, adding sweet 5-66
char, peat and smoky flavors
wine, red 7%-15% 25%-100% tannin, berry, oak low to moderate glaze, meat sauce, adding 34
complexity and fruit flavors
wine, white 7%-15% 25%-100% apple, pear, floral low to moderate broth and sauce, adding acidity 76
and complexity
from page 2-317 *{set weight of broth or sauce to 100%)

24 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 CLOVE OIL Yields 100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Grapeseed oil lOOg 100% ® Combine and reserve.
Clove essential oil 0.5 g 0.5%
from page 5-52

CINNAMON-SCENTED PEAJUICE Yields 210 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet peas, frozen and 200 g 100% ® Whisk together.
juiced
® Centrifuge at 27,500^ for 1 h.
Cinnamon essential oil 0.05 g 0.025%
@ Strain.
(optional)

Lime juice to taste @ Season broth.

Salt to taste ® Refrigerate until use.
from page 5-275

CONDRIEU BUTTER Yields 340 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Condrieu wine 750 g 500% ® Vacuum reduce to 150 g, and reserve.
Shallots, thinly sliced 60 g 40% @ Saute until tender, aboutlO min.
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 33%
Lychee juice (fresh) 100 g 67% @ Deglaze shallots.
@ Remove from heat.
©Strain.
Condrieu reduction, 150 g 100% ® Whisk into deglazed shallots.
from above
Unsalted butter. 75 g 50% @ Warm Condrieu butter base, and blend in cold butter
cold and cubed until fully emulsified.
Osmanthus vinegar 15 g 10% ® Season.
Orange blossom 0.05 g 0.03%
essential oil
Rose essential oil 0.05 g 0.03%
Salt to taste
from page 5-172

GLAZED CARROT Yields 120 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Young carrots (preferably 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
Thumbelina), peeled
® Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 40 min.
Carotene butter (or 20 g 20%
@ Cool, remove carrots from bag, and reserve.
regular butter)
see page 40

Mandarin juice 48 g 48% ® Vacuum reduce (or reduce over heat) to glaze, about
Valencia orange juice 45 g 45% 7 min.

Honey 5g 5%
Mandarin essential oil 0.1 g 0.1% ® Season glaze.
Salt to taste ® Stir in carrots and warm through.
from page 5-186

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 25

MARINATED SPAGHETTI SQUASH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Spaghetti squash 130 g 100% © Steam until tender, about 15 min.
@ Shred strands while still hot.
© Cool and reserve refrigerated.
Orange juice 24 g 18.5% 0 Combine to make dressing.
Honey vinegar 11 g 8.5% © Marinate squash in dressingforlO min.
Extra virgin olive oil 8g 6.2%
Sichuan peppercorns, 2g 1.5%
coarsely ground
Orange zest, finely grated 0.5g 0.4%
Acetaldehyde 0.015 g 0.01%
Salt to taste
from page 5-149

HOW TO WASH CITRUS OIL EXTRACTING FLAVOR WITH ALCOHOL

@ Combine the ingredients in a separatory funnel with the stopcock © Select and prepare ingredient. The table Best Bets for Extracts on the next
closed. Use 10 parts essential oil, 40 parts distilled water, and 50 page suggests a number of good options.
parts pure alcohol (either ethanol or Everclear), or use a high-proof
@ Vacuum seal ingredient with neutral vodka. Quantities indicated in the table
vodka that has been run through a water filter a few times in place of
are proportional to the weight of the vodka. For example, use 25 g of chili for
both the water and the ethanol.
every 100 g of alcohol.
@ Stopperthefunnel and shake until the mixture becomes cloudy.
@ Infuse. Recommended infusingtemperatures and times are listed in the
@ Let stand undisturbed until the mixture separates. The oil rises to the table. Some preparations benefit from cooking; for others, infusion at
top. When the liquid is clear-after a day or even a week of resting— refrigerator temperatures does a better job of capturing their delicate flavors.
the essence is ready. Longer time will yield a more intense extraction.
@ Sieve. Reseal, and refrigerate until needed.
@ Remove the stopper, open the stopcock, and drain the flavored
©Add recommended concentration ofalcohol extract to broth orsauce. For
water through a coffee filter. The filter will remove any waxes and
example, add 4gofbrown butter extract for every 100 g of broth orsauce.
impurities. Close the stopcock just before the oil starts to emerge.
Adding more than 5% will make the alcohol flavor perceptible.

BROWN BUTTER FUMET Yieids2oog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown fish stock 200 g 100% © Simmer together until reduced to 200 g.
see page 6
@ Cool.
Sake 150 g 75%
Vermouth (dry) 50 g 25%
Rice vinegar lOg 5%
Brown butter extract 8g 4% © Whisk in.
see page 4-213
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0-3 g 0.15%
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste 0 Season and serve, or refrigerate until use.
from page 5458

HAZELNUT OIL EXTRACT Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Roasted hazelnut oil 300 g 100% © Combine in separatory funnel.
see page 41 (or store-bought)
©Shake vigorouslyfor2 min.
Vodka 300g 100%
© Allow oil and alcohol to separate overnight.
0 Decant alcohol from bottom offunnel.

© Use hazelnut oil-infused alcohol to season broths or sauces without adding fat.
from page 2-321

26 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 Best Bets for Extracts
Infuse
Example
Ingredient (scaling )* (°C) (°F) (h) concentration** Example use See page
bay leaf, fresh ^% 60 140 4 5% fish sauce, broth 46
brown butter, melted 100% 65 149 5 4% vegetable broth 42, 297
butter, melted 100% 65 149 3 4% popcorn broth
chili (dry), crushed 25% refrigerate 24 2% Sichuan-style broth
cinnamon stick, crushed 5% 60 140 4 3%-4% meat sauce 14
citrus zest, finely grated 27% 50 122 3 3% fish sauce, broth
coffee bean, ground 20% refrigerate 12 3% meat sauce, red-eye gravy 5-101
corianderseed, crushed 20% 60 140 3 5% seafood sauce
fennel seed 5% 3 37 24 3%-4% pork broth, Parmesan jus
ginger, thinly sliced 25% 60 140 4 3% Chinese broth
roasted hazelnut oil 100% 65 149 3 8% root vegetable broth
nutmeg, grated 7% refrigerate 24 2%-3% guinea fowl consomme
rosemary 10% refrigerate 24 1.5%-2.5% lamb broth, lamb jus
saffron threads 1% refrigerate 24 0.6% cream sauce
star anise, crushed 5% 60 140 4 4% oxtail consomme 46
thyme leaf 10% 60 140 4 3%-4% beurre blanc
vanilla bean, split 5% refrigerate 24 3% sauce or broth of foie gras
or lean fish
from page 2-326 *{set weight of vodka to 100%) **(set weight of broth or sauce to 100%)

HOUSE BITTERS Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Vodka 500 g 100% @ Combine.
Kumquat, thinly sliced 40 g 8% @ Seal in glass bottle with airtight lid.
Burdock root 12 g 2.4% @ Shake bottle twice a week for4 wk.

Vanilla beans, halved 12 g 2.4% ® Pour mixture through fine sieve into sterilized bottle.

Orange zest lOg 2%

Gentian flowers 6g 1.2%

Cinnamon 5g 1%

Cloves 3g 0.6%

Heathertips 2g 0.4%

Anise seeds 1.5g 0.3%

from page 2-327

EINES HERBS EXTRACT Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Vodka 100 g 100% ® Combine and vacuum seal.
Chervil, thinly sliced 33 g 33% @ Refrigerate for 24 h to steep.
Chives 33 g 33% @ Strain through fine filter.
Parsley leaves, whole 33 g 33% ® Add 2%-5% of extract to season broth or sauce, or
Tarragon, crushed 15g 15% reseal and refrigerate until use.
from page 2-327

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 27

INFUSING FLAVOR INTO A FAT

© Wash and dry all produce thoroughly to prevent contamination of the fat. @ Place food in bag into an ultrasonic bathforl5 min to 1 h (optional).
@ Vacuum seal ingredient with fat. The table Best Bets for Infused Fats Ultrasonic treatment enhances extraction and should be done while the
below lists many good combinations. Quantities are proportional to the food is still hot. Use the same bath temperature used for infusion or the
weight of the fat. When making coffee butter, for example, add 55 g of highest setting possible. Or use a sous vide bath that has ultrasonic
coffee beans for every 100 g of butter. capability to do the infusion.

@ Cook sous vide to infuse the fat. Recommended temperatures and times ® Sieve, and then refrigerate. Do not sieve truffle or other infusions in which
are given in the table. the flavorful flecks are desirable.

This recipe works with crab, crawfish, shrimp, prawn,

and lobster of all varieties. It is a culinary classic that
dates to traditional French cuisine.
Best Bets for Infused Fats
Cook sous vide,
or infuse cold

Ingredient (scaling)* Fat (°c) (°F) (h) Example use See page

cured ham, thinly sliced 40% peanut oil 70 158 8 add to XO sauce, season fresh melon

dried chili, crushed 3% sunflower oil 70 158 24 poach fish, season sauteed broccoli next page

cocoa nib, crushed 40% sunflower oil 65 149 6 garnish sashimi

coffee beans, whole 55% unsalted 70 158 12 garnish sea urchin, shellfish, lemon risotto 350
butter

garlic, thinly sliced 50% olive oil 90 194 4 garnish pizza, roasted potatoes 5-211

fresh ginger, thinly sliced 45% sunflower oil puree until smooth garnish steamed fish

70 158 3

Iberico ham fat, thinly 75% olive oil 90 194 20 min serve warm, blend into ham broth, garnish
sliced grilled peaches orwatermelon

langoustine (or other 125% unsalted 88 154 5 poach shellfish, blend into shellfish sauces next page
shellfish) shell, crushed to butter
a fine paste and roasted

thyme leaves 20% grapeseed oil 55 131 45 min season cooked fish and shellfish, finish lemon
risotto

lemon zest, finely grated 45% grapeseed oil 60 140 2 garnish salads and fish

makrud (kaffir) lime leaf, 15% grapeseed oil 3 37 24 drizzle over grilled fish, brush on pork cutlets next page
sliced

fresh mint, thinly sliced 16% olive oil 80 176 1 mix into vinaigrette

molasses 50% unsalted 80 176 20 min fry sweetbreads or foie gras next page
adapted from Michel Bras butter
refrigerate fo r4d
after cooking

dry porcini 50% sunflower oil 70 158 1 blend into game broth
rosemary 10% olive oil 80 176 1 drizzle over roast lamb
rose petal, untreated 80% sweet apricot 55 131 VA make salad dressing, beurre blanc forfish
oil

truffle, minced 30% unsalted 55 131 1 garnish poached scallops or artichokes

butter ultrasonic 15 min
bath

*(set weight of fat to 100%)

from page 2-329

28 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SHELLFISH BUTTER Yields 400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Crustacean heads, bodies, and shells, 500 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
finely crushed or ground
@ Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath for5 h.
Clarified unsalted butter 400 g 80% @ Remove from bag, and cool at room temperature.
@ Refrigerate for 12 h.
© Heat mixture to melt.
© Strain; discard heads.
@ Decant butter.

© Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-329

SOUS VIDE LEMON HERB OIL Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Grapeseed oil 400 g 100% ® Combine.
Lemongrass, thinly sliced 80 g 20% @ Vacuum seal.
Lemon thyme leaves 50 g 12.5% © Cook sous vide in 60 °C/140 "F bath forl’A h.
Lemon balm leaves 20 g 5% ® Chill and refrigerate for 12 h.
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaves 20 g 5% © Strain.

© Refrigerate until use.

from page 2-330

SPICED CHILI OIL ADAPTED FROM JEAN-CEORGES VONGERICHTEN Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil 1 kg 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
Chipotle chilies, thinly sliced 180g 18% @ Cook sous vide in 70 °C/158 °F bath for 24 h.
Coriander seeds, toasted and crushed 30 g 3% @ Cool and refrigerate forl2 h.
Mace, crushed 30 g 3% ® Strain.
Dry red chilies, crushed 30 g 3% © Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Star anise, crushed 30 g 3%
Cinnamon sticks, toasted and crushed 20 g 2%
Fennel seeds, toasted and crushed 12 g 1.2%
from page 2-330

MOLASSES BUTTER adapted from michel bras Yieids2oog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Unsalted butter, melted 200 g 200% © Blend together.
Molasses lOOg 100% @ Transfer mixture to mason jar, and seal.
@ Place sealed Mason jar in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 30 min.
® Remove jar from bath, and take off lid.
© Rest in jar at room temperature for 30 min to allow butter and molasses to separate.
© Pour butter into sealable container, and discard molasses.
0 Seal, and refrigerate infused butterfor4 d.
© Decant butter, and refrigerate for use.
from page 2-331

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 29

 CURRY OIL ADAPTED FROM THOMAS KELLER Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PRQCEDURE

Coriander seeds, 90 g 9% © Toast separately in small pans until just fragrant.
toasted and crushed
@ Remove from heat.
Cinnamon stick, crushed 35 g 3.5%
Canola oil 1kg 100% © Blend fully with toasted spices.
or other neutral oil
@ Vacuum seal.
Chaat masala 140 g 14%
® Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath fori h.
see page 50
® Refrigerate for 12 h.
Cayenne pepper 30 g 3%
©Strain.
Mace 15 g 1.5%
® Repackage, and refrigerate until use.
from page 2-331

CRAB OIL Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Frying oil 400 g 200% © Deep-fry crab parts in 175 °C /350 °F oil fori h to
Crab shell and liver 200 g 100% infuse.
@ Strain through fine sieve.
@ Cool, and reserve in dry place.
from page 5-190

MALAYSIAN AROMATIC OIL Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Crapeseed oil 350 g 100% © Combine, and simmer until oil is deep red and heavily
Tomatoes, peeled and 140 g 40% saturated with aromatics, about 45 min.
seeded © Cool.
Red shallots, thinly sliced 75 g 21.5% © Vacuum seal.
Sweet onions, sliced 65 g 19% @ Refrigerate for 12 h to finish infusion.
Sichuan chilies, seeded 40 g 11.5% © Strain through fine sieve.
and crushed
Garlic, pounded to paste lOg 3%
Shrimp paste (belacan) lOg 3%
Ginger, grated 7.5 g 2%
Red bird's eye chili, 2,5g 0.7%
thinly sliced
from page 5168

30 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 Additives to Preserve the Color and Flavor of Fresh Juice
Function Ingredient (scaling) Note

inhibits ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 0.1%-0.3% works best with citric acid
browning,
citric acid 0.5%-2.0% these fruit acids interfere with browning enzymes directly and by lowering
preserves color
malic acid pH; they work best in conjunction with ascorbic acid

tartaric acid

oxalic acid

honey 10% or more high concentrations have preservative effects

sodium benzoate 0.05%-0.1% use only forfoods with a pH < 4.5; maximum permitted quantity is 0.1%;
slows both browning and bacterial and fungal growth

sodium metabisulfite 0.01%-0.05% most effective at 0.03%; unpleasant flavor above 0.05%
(Campden tablets)

restores or fresh juice 5%-10% add just-squeezed juice before serving to produce fresh volatile aromatics
preserves flavor that refresh the flavor in some juices

essential oil 0.001%-!% add a few drops of the appropriate citrus essential oil just before serving to
replenish natural oils from the peel and restore fresh flavor

alpha tocopherol (vitamin E) 0.025%- antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E help protect aromas from the
0.05% ravages of oxidation

from page 2-339

MEYER LEMONADE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Meyer lemon juice 300 g 100% © Centrifuge at 27,500^ fori h.

© Decant juice and strain through fine sieve.

Always add the essential oil just
Fructose 30 g 10% @ Whisk into clarified juice until dissolved and before serving. The acidity of the
Citric acid 1.5 g 0.5% reserve. juice will destroy the essence. This
Cum arabic 5g 1.7% ® Blend together until fully emulsified. is why the best quality citrus oils are
Water 0.7% made by removing the peel before
2g © Add 1.5 g of emulsion to sweetened juice.
cold pressing so there is no chance
Lemon essential oil 0.12 g 0.04% ® Hand-blend until smooth.
for the acidic fruit juice to damage
(seven drops)
@ Strain through fine sieve. the peel oil.
® Chill before serving.
from page 2-340

MELON WATER Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
The flavor of melon is created by
Melon juice lOOg 100% ©Whisk together and season to taste.
enzymatic reactions during juicing.
(from 200 g of
©Centrifuge at27,5005forl h. The fresh flavor can be reinvigo¬
melon)
@ Decant only clearjuice. rated by adding a small amount of
Fructose 5g 5%
® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use. fresh melon juice to the batch just
Lime juice 2.5 g 2.5% before serving.
Tartaric acid 0.5 g 0.5%
Salt to taste
from page 2-340

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 31

 PEN SHELL CLAM, PLUOT, MYOGA, SCALLOP MOCHI Yields 650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pluots (or red plums) 400 g 200% @ Juice.

@ Clarifyjuice using preferred method.

(D Measure 200 g.
Malic acid 2g 1% @ Season juice.
White soy sauce to taste ® Refrigerate.
Pen shell clams, shucked 200 g 100% ® Measure and refrigerate.
Scallop mochi 60 g (four pieces, 30% @ Measure and reserve individually.
see page 345 15 g each)
Freeze-dried scallop 28 g 14%
powder
(optional, see page 58)

Frying oil as needed

Ginger oil 20 g 10% ® Dust pen shell clams with scallop powder, if using, and then sear in oil over high heat fori min,
see page 20
® Season, and allow to rest at room temperature.
Salt to taste
@ Deep-fry scallop mochi in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until puffed, about 2 min, and then optionally,
season with scallop powder.
Dinosaur Pluot (or red 20 g 10% ® Toss pluot and myoga with small amount of seasoned pluot juice.
plum), thinly sliced
® Arrange pen shell clams and pluot slices on each plate.
Myoga, fine julienne 12 g 6%
@ Garnish with scallop mochi.

® Pouradditional pluotjuice at table.

from page 5-202

SOUS VIDE BERRY JUICE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Blackberries (fresh) lOOg 100% @ Combine.
Sugar 7g 7% @ Vacuum seal sweetened berry mixture.
This process works equally well for
Isomalt 5g 5%
blueberries, raspberries, and ® Cook sous vide in 65 °C /149 °F bath for 1 h.
strawberries. ® Remove from bag, and cool at room
temperature.
® Strain through fine sieve; discard pulp.
® Chill before serving.
from page 2-340

STRAWBERRY CONSOMME Yields 265 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Strawberryjuice 250 g 100% ©Centrifuge at 27,500^ fori h.
(from about
400 g
strawberries)
Fructose 15.5 g 6% @ Season, and refrigerate until use.
Malic acid 1.25g 0.5%
from page 5-278

32 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 GREEN ASPARAGUS AND MORELS WITH ASPARAGUS JUS Yields 650 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM JEAN-CEORGES VONCERICHTEN

INGREDIENT_ QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pencil green asparagus, unpeeled 200 g 80% © Juice with Champion-style juicer.
@ Measure 50 gfor recipe.
Asparagus juice, from above 50 g 20% © Whisk ascorbic acid immediately into fresh juice to prevent browning.
Ascorbic acid 0.4 g 0.16% @ Vacuum seal.
(0.8%)*
® Refrigerate.
Jumbo green asparagus, stalks peeled 250 g 100% ® Saute for 3 min on all sides until just tender and golden.
(eight stalks)
@ Remove from heat, and reserve.
Clarified unsalted butter 25 g 10%
see page 4-213

Jumbo green asparagus, stalks peeled 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal.

(eight stalks)
@ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 12 min, immediately remove from bag,
Clarified unsalted butter 25 g 10% and reserve.
Morels, thoroughly washed 120 g 48% @ Meanwhile, sweat together for 5 min until tender and just cooked through.
Unsalted butter 50 g 20%
Shallot, finely minced 30 g 12%
Vin jaune (or Fino sherry) 25 g 10% ® Add to morels, and cook for 3 min.
Heavy cream >5g 6%
Instant hollandaise 80 g 32% @ Warm to 65 °C /149 °F.
see page 305
@ Dispense from siphon, and fold into morels.
@ Set aside, and keep warm.
Asparagus puree 50 g 20% ® Warm prepared asparagus juice over medium heat.
see page 55
® Whisk in puree.
Unsalted butter lOg 4% ® Whisk into warm thickened jus until fully emulsified.
Limejuice to taste @ Season jus.
Salt to taste
Flaky sea salt to taste ® Reheat reserved asparagus stalks.
@ Season.

@ Place two sous vide cooked stalks and two panfried stalks in center.
Chive blossoms (orfinely minced chives) lOg 4% @ Garnish with warm morels and blossoms.
@ Pour jus around plates at table.
from page 2-341 *(% of total weight of asparagus juice)

STRAWBERRY GAZPACHO
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Strawberries, sliced 560 g 100% ® Prepare ingredients as noted, blanching onions if
Preparinggazpacho in
Cucumber, peeled, 140 g 25% needed, to remove sulfurous notes.
advance? Create a la
seeded, and sliced @ Vacuum seal together.
m/nufe flavor with this
Red bell pepper, steamed forlO min, 115 g 20.5% ® Macerate in refrigerator for 12 h. trick from Heston
peeled, and thinly sliced
® Blend to fine puree. Blumenthal. At the last
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 115 g 20.5% minute, juice a small
® Pass gazpacho through fine sieve.
Extra virgin olive oil 50 g 9% amount of the principal
ingredient—whether red
White balsamic vinegar 20 g 3.5%
cabbage, tomatoes, or
Balsamic vinegar 13g 2.5%
strawberries—then add it
Garlic clove, crushed 2g 0.5% to the existing gazpacho.
Strawberry consomme 65 g 12% ® Add to gazpacho. Enzymes already present
see page 32 in the soup attack com¬
@ Serve, or vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Limejuice 2.7% ponents of the added
15 g
juice and rapidly regener¬
White balsamic vinegar 4g 0.7%
ate some of the aromas
Malic acid 2g 0.4% lost overtime. The fresh
Black pepper to taste flavor comes right back.
Salt to taste
from page 5-278

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 33

MAKING JUS

Best Bets for Jus

Recipe Liquid (scaling) Protein (scaling) Aromatic (scaling)

beef juice not applicable ground beef 100% not applicable

beefjus brown beef stock 100% ground beef 35% carrot, thinly sliced 12%
red wine 30% oxtail, jointed 15% onion, thinly sliced 10%
chicken juice not applicable ground chicken 100% not applicable
brown chicken jus brown chicken stock 100% ground chicken wing 15% shallot, thinly sliced 20%
chicken juice (from 40% chicken foot 8% dried morel 5.0%
above)
fino sherry 20% thyme 0.1%
mushroom jus mushroom stock 100% not applicable crimini mushroom, thinly 75%
sliced
fino sherry 20% shallot, thinly sliced 20%
white port 10% white miso 7.0%
tamari 1% thyme 0.1%
mussel jus white wine 10% mussels 100% shallot 10%
bay leaf 0.01%
pork and Banyuls brown pork stock 100% ground pork shoulder 75% sweet onion, thinly sliced 8%
roasting jus Banyuls wine 25% ground pork trotter skin 10% carrot, thinly sliced 7%
and meat
rare beef jus water 5% beef, cubed 100% not applicable
rare salmon jus water 5% salmon fillet, cubed 100% not applicable
shellfish jus shellfish stock 40% shellfish heads 100% tarragon extract 1.5%
white wine 38% white pepper to taste
vermouth 13%
vegetable jus onion juice, clarified 100% not applicable not applicable
carrot juice, clarified 80%
celeryjuice, clarified 55%
leek juice, clarified 30%
from page 2-344

JUS DE LA PRESSE INSPIRED BY ALAIN DUCASSE Yields350g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lobster heads 600 g 100% @ Saute until shells are golden and very aromatic, about 10 min.
(about four heads) @ Baste constantly with butterto cookthrough.
Clarified unsalted butter 60 g 10% @ Place heads in basket of wine press.
® Extract juices by crushing shells completely with wine press.
White wine (dry) 200 g 33% ® Combine with extracted lobster juices.
Lobster Stock 120 g 20% ® Reduce lobster juice by half.
see page 6

Cognac 30 g 5%
Lobster roe 80 g 13% @ Blend with warm reduction until fully emulsified.
Unsalted butter 80 g 13%
Olive oil 35 g 6%
Lemon juice to taste ® Season.
Salt to taste
from page 2-347

34 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 Cook @ Select a recipe from Best Bets for Jus.

Method (bar) @ If cooking sous vide, vacuum seal the liquids, proteins, and
(psi) (°C) (°F) (h) See page
aromatics together. Otherwise combine ingredients in a
cook sous vide 90 194 V/2 40 pressure cooker. Quantities are proportional to whichever
pressure cook 1 15 V/2 ingredient (usually the protein orthe stock) is set to 100%. For
example, use 38 g of wine and 13 g ofvermouth for every 100 g
ofheads when makingshellfish jus.
cook sous vide 90 194 1
@ Cook. Recommended cooking methods, temperatures, and
brown meat and bones, 1 15 1 times are indicated in the table. Pressures given are gauge
pressure cook pressures.
@ Press, strain, or sieve.

® Season. For seasoning options, see Best Bets for Lowering pH on

page 22, Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers on
pressure cook 1 15 25 37
page 21, and Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol on
min page 24.

cook sous vide 100 212 4 min 294

brown meat and bones, 1 15 V/2 547

pressure cook

cook sous vide 53 127 4 40

cook sous vide 50 122 1 5 161

cook sous vide 88 190 V/2

cook sous vide 85 185 3

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 35

ROOT VEGETABLE JUS Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Salmon belly, trimmed 200 g 200% ® Vacuum seal.
@ Cook sous vide in 43 °C/109 °F bath fori h.
@ Strain through fine sieve, and measure 100 g of salmon juice.

® Refrigerate.

Turnip juice 270 g 270% ® Vacuum seal together.

(from 400 g © Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for3 h.
turnips)
@ Strain through fine sieve.
Rutabagajuice 115 g 115%
® Reduce to 200 g.
(from 300 g
rutabagas)
Celery root juice 75 g 75%
(from 150 g celery
root)
Sweet onion juice 50 g 50%
(from 120 g onion;i)

Leekjuice 30 g 30%
(from 90 g leeks)

Parsnip juice 15 g 15%

(from 65 g
parsnips)
Strained salmon juice, lOOg 100% @ Stir into vegetable juice reduction.
from above
Cold-smoked butter 70 g 70% ® Blend in smoked butter until fully emulsified.
see page 244
® Season with lime juice and salt.
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5-163

SOUS VIDE VEGETABLE JUS Yields 750 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yellow onions, thinly sliced 400 g 100% ® Prepare vegetables as noted.

Carrot, peeled and 270 g 67.5% @ Combine, and vacuum seal.

thinly sliced @ Cook sous vide in 85 °C / 185 °F bath for 3 h.
Water 160 g @ Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
Celery, peeled and 120 g 30%
thinly sliced
Leek, white only. 120 g 30%
thinly sliced (from 275 g peeled leeks)

Unsalted butter, cubed 45 g 11% ® To serve, heat stock to 85 °C/185 °F.

® Blend in butter until fully emulsified.

Lemon juice to taste @ Season.

Salt to taste
from page 2-347

CLAM JUICE Yields 175 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Clams, rinsed and 475 g 100% @ Combine.
soaked to remove sand @ Vacuum seal.
Shallots, minced lOg 2%
@ Steam or boil for3 min until clams have just released
Thyme 0.3 g 0.06% their juices.
Bay leaf 0.1 g 0.02% @ Cool.
® Strain juices and reserve. Solids can also be reserved
for another use.
from page 5-230

36 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

LAMB GARLIC JUS IN AJAR Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Lamb trim, ground 1kg 100% ® Panfry ground lamb until golden.
Frying oil 90 g 9% @ Reserve meat and 10 g of rendered fat.
Carrots, peeled and thinly 300 g 30% ® Prepare vegetables as noted.
sliced
@ Saute together in saucepan with reserved lamb fat, until tender.
Shallots, thinly sliced 200 g 20%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 150 g 15%
Fennel, thinly sliced 125 g 12.5%
Garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 50 g 5%
Red bell pepper, thinly sliced 50 g 5%
Tomato paste 25 g 2.5% ® Add to vegetables, and increase heat to high.
Star anise, crushed 3g 0.3% ® Stir mixture continuously until golden brown and fragrant, about 3 min.
Water 500 g 50% @ Deglaze pot, and stir in browned meat.
White wine 200 g 20% ® Remove from heat.
Thyme 5g 0.5% ® Divide mixture equally between two Mason jars.
Bay leaf 2g 0.2% @ Seal jars, and place on rack in pressure cooker.
® Fill cooker with water to cover bottom 2.5 cm / 1 in of jars.
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for iy2 h.
@ Remove jars from cooker, remove lids, and cool jus to room temperature.
Lemon juice to taste @ Strain stock.
Salt to taste ® Reduce strained stock until thickened, about 12 min, and season.
from page 2-348

MUSHROOM JUS Yields 270g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Crimini mushrooms. 150 g 60% ® Saute mushrooms and shallots together in butter until deep golden brown, about
thinly sliced 12 min.
Shallots, thinly sliced 40 g 16%
Clarified unsalted butter 25 g 10%
Mushroom stock 200 g 80% @ Combine with cooked mushroom mixture in pressure cooker.
see page 6
® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar /15 psi for 25 min.
Fino sherry 40 g 16%
@ Strain through fine sieve, and discard solids.
White port (dry) 20 g 8%
® Measure 250 g of mushroom jus.

Mushroom jus, from above 250 g 100% ® Blend together until dissolved.

White miso 14g 5.6% @ Strain.

Tamari soy sauce 2g 0.8%

Thyme 2g 0.8%

Konjac gum 0.75 g 0.3%

Salt to taste ® Season.

Sherry vinegar to taste

from page 2-348

SOUS VIDE MUSSEL JUICE YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Mussel juice is classically used to

, accentuate the flavor of seafood
Mussels, rinsed thoroughly 1 kg 100% ® Vacuum seal in one even layer. .
broths and sauces. This sous vide
with beards removed
©CookinlOO C/212 E steam or boiling water method extracts the juices from
for 4 min. mussels without overcooking
@ shock in ice-water bath. them so the meat can be used as
@ Shuck, and reserve meat for another use. a garnish for cooked fish (see page
5151). Inspect mussels carefully and
® Strain rendered mussel juices from bag and
discard any dead orsandy shellfish.
shells.
These can spoil the juice.
® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-346

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 37

 Yields250g
TOASTED OAT JUS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pigeon carcass 650 g 260% @ Roast in 175 °C / 350 °F oven until golden, about 35 min.

Pigeon wings 200 g 80%

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300 g 120% @ Saute onions until translucent.

Grapeseed oil 45 g 19.2% @ Add garlic, and sautefor5 min.

Garlic, thinly sliced lOg 4%
Brown pigeon stock 750 g 300% @ Combine with roasted carcass, wings, and onion mixture.
see page 6 @ Bring mixture to simmer.
Red wine (dry) 300 g 120%
© Skim surface.
Rendered foie gras fat 65 g 26% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar /15 psi for V/i h.
Cognac 50 g 20%
® Strain, and reduce to 250 g.
Steel-cut oats, rinsed to 30 g 12%
remove surface starch
Sherry vinegar 20 g 8%
Sugar 13 g 5.2%
Black peppercorns 2g 0.8%
Reduced oatjus. 250 g 100% @ Combine.
from above @ Simmerfor25 min.
Pancetta 25 g 10% ® Season.
Cognac 7.5 g 3% @ Strain through fine sieve, and serve or refrigerate until use.
Sherry vinegar 5g 2%
Salt 2.5 g 1%
Black peppercorns 0.25 g 0.1%
from page 5-133

Yields 300 g
BANYULS GLAZE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Ground pork 2.25 kg 100% ® Coat meats with oil.
22% @ Roast in 190 °C/375-F oven until golden brown, stirring frequently to ensure even browning.
Pork trotter, bone in. 500 g
finely ground @ Remove browned meat from pan, reserving fat.

Frying oil 225 g 10%

Sweet onions, peeled 500 g 22% @ Sweat vegetables in pressure cooker with reserved fat until tender.
and thinly sliced
Carrots peeled, 450 g 20%
thinly sliced
Water 1.2 kg 50% ® Deglaze vegetables.

Brown pork stock 400 g 18%

see page 6
Banyuls wine (or other 350 g 16%
semisweet red wine)
Bay leaf (fresh) 4.5 g 0.2% © Add with browned meatto vegetables in cooker.
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar /15 psi for I'A h.
® Cool and strain.
@ Reduce to glaze.

Banyuls vinegar (or other 50 g 2% @ Blend in butterand vinegar until fully emulsified.
semisweet red vinegar) @ Season.
Unsalted butter 50 g 2%

Salt to taste
from page 5-19

38 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

TAGINE BASE Yields 150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly sliced lOOg 100% @ Saute onions until translucent.
Neutral oil 25 g 25%
Brown chicken stock 325 g 325% @ Add to onions, and bring mixture to simmer.
see page 6
@ Reduce by half, about 20 min.
Ginger juice 21 g 21%
Water lOg 10%
Garlic, thinly sliced 9g 9%
Lemon juice 9g 9%
Clear honey 5g 5%
Salt 3.5 g 3.5%
Cinnamon, freshly ground Ig 1%
Preserved lemon peel, 8.5g 8.5% ® Whisk into reduction and adjust seasoning.
brunoise
see page 174 © Serve or cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

Pickled fig, small dice 6g 6%

see page 177
Saffron threads Ig 1%
from page 5137

SQUASH GLAZE Yields 150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Butternut squash juice 100 g 17% @ Combine.
(from 400 g
©Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
squash)
@ Strain through fine sieve to clarify.
Sweet onion juice lOOg 17%
(from 200 g
onions)
Carrot juice 50 g 8.5%
(from 200 g
carrots)
White veal stock 600 g 100% ® Combine with strained vegetable juice, and blend
see page 6 until smooth.
Shank cookingjuices lOOg 17% © Reduce to 150 g.
see page 276
Tomato confit 7g 1.2%
see page 179
Unsalted butter, cubed 25 g 4% ® Blend in butter and oil until fully emulsified.
Extra virgin olive oil 15 g 2.5%
Lemon juice to taste @ Season glaze.
Salt to taste
from page 5-63

SOUS VIDE PRAWN JUS Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Prawn heads 400 g 100% @ Combine.
Shellfish stock 160 g 40% @ Grind coarsely in food processor.
see page 6
@ Vacuum seal.
Vermouth (dry) 80 g 20%
® Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath fori'72 h.
© Strain through fine sieve.
Tarragon extract 6g 1.5% © Whisk in.
see page 27

Salt to taste @ Season.

White pepper to taste

from page 2-347

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 39

 SOUS VIDE RARE BEEF JUS Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beeffpreferably atough cut) 1kg 100% © Cut into 1 cm / 1/2 in cubes.

Rare beef jus created this way
Bromelain powder (optional, 2g 0.2% @ Combine meat and bromelain (optional).
can be used for many purposes.
Tougher meats may require more NOW brand) © Cook sousvidein53°C/128°F bath for 4 h.
time to release their juice. @ Strain rendered juices through fine sieve, and
measure 300 g of juice.

Water 50 g 5% © Combine with juice.

Salt to taste © Season.

Sherry vinegar to taste © Vacuum seal, and refrigerate. Do not reheat

above 53 °C/127 °F, or jus will coagulate.

from page 2-349

SOUS VIDE BEEFJUICE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

This process can be applied to all
types of meats. Usingthe resulting Ground lean beef 1kg 100% © Vacuum seal.
juice, although more costly than @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C /194 °F bath for T/a h.
water, is a more flavorful alternative © Strain juice, and discard meat.
than using water to make broths
@ Cool juice completely.
and sauces.
© Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-349

Yields 1.4 kg
CENTRIFUGED CAROTENE BUTTER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

Carrot juice 2.2 kg 100% © Bringl.4 kg of carrot juice to simmer.

see page 2-336 (from 3.5 kg of @ Blend in butter, and simmerfor30 min.
carrots)
© Blend in remaining 800 g of carrot juice.
Unsalted butter, cubed 1.4 kg 64%
@ Divide mixture equally (check weight) among centrifuge bottles.

© Centrifuge bottles at 27,500^ for 1 h.

© Refrigerate bottles until butterfat has solidified, about 2 h.

© Pierce congealed butterfat on top of each bottle.

® Pour out clarified carrot juice, and set aside for another use.
® Warm bottles in water bath, or microwave to melt butter.
@ Decant clear, melted butter, and discard accumulated solids from bottoms of bottles.

® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use._

from page 2-365

TOMATO WATER Yields 1.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, 2 kg 100% © Process with champion-style juicer.

Vacuum filters, wine filters, and and chopped @ Measure evenly among centrifuge bottles.
enzyme clarification are good
© Centrifuge at27,500^ fori h, and decant.
alternatives to centrifuging when
makingtomato water. Salt to taste @ Season juice, and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-366

40 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

CENTRIFUGED PEAJUICE Yields 325 g

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Frozen sweet peas, thawed 700 g 100% @ Blend to fine puree.
S 10% d) Divide evenly among centrifuge bottles, ensuring filled bottles are of equal weight,
@ Centrifuge bottles at 27,500^ fori h.

@ Decant juice, and filter, to obtain about 325 g.

@ Skim off and reserve thin, middle layer of pea butter—about 50 g-to spread on bread
or blend into sauces.
from page 2-367

CENTRIFUGED ROASTED-HAZELNUT OIL Yields 150 g

INSPIRED BY NILS NOREN AND DAVE ARNOLD

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Hazelnuts 400 g 100% © Roast in 160 °C/325 °F oven for25 min.
@ Transfer while warm to food processor.
@ Blend to form smooth butter. The sugar syrup dramatically
improves the yield of the product
Sugar 40 g 10% @ Combine, and bringto boil to make syrup.
by helping to force a cleaner
Water 40 g 10% ® Remove from heat.
separation between the layers.
® Blend syrup with hazelnut butter. It also sweetens the result,
@ Divide mixture evenly among centrifuge however. Use plain waterto boost
bottles. yield without adding sweetness.

® Centrifuge at 27,500^' fori h.

@ Decant oil on top, and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-367

BANANA YOGURT Yields 150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Bananas, unpeeled 500 g 500% ® Cook sousvidein88°C/190°F bath for 12 min.

@ Peel, puree, and measure 100 g. Adding 0.2% of Pectinex Smash XXL
@ Centrifuge 400 g of puree at 27,500^ fori h. enzyme to fruit and vegetable

® Decant juice, and reserve 40 g. purees and juices before centri¬

fuging can both speed the
Banana puree, from above 100 g 100% ® Puree until smooth.
separation process and increase
Banana juice, from above 40 g 40% the yield by up to a factor of
Creme fralche 30 g 30% two—see page 43.
Salt to taste ® Season yogurt.
@ Refrigerate until use.

from page 5-98

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 41

Best Bets for Consomme

Recipe Liquid_(scaling) Flavoring_(scaling) Aromatics_(scaling)

bacon consomme white pork stock 100% bacon, thinly sliced 50% sweet onions, thinly sliced 25.0%
black pepper 3.5%
lager 8%
maple syrup 5 go/^

brown butter white chicken stock 100% brown butter extract 5% star anise 0.3%

consomme butternut squash juice 20% see page 4-213 saffron 0.1%

vodka 5%

chocolate water water 100% dark chocolate (80% cocoa) 24% cocoa nib 10.5%

adapted from Sam Mason cocoa powder 10.0%

consomme madrilene white chicken stock 100% ground chicken, browned 30% coriander seed 0.5%

tomato water 100% tomato, peeled and seeded 15% star anise 0.1%

see page 40

vermouth 5%

kimchi consomme ramen stock 100% kimchi, pureed 6% fish sauce to taste

lime juice to taste

Parmesan water water 100% Parmesan cheese, grated 100%

pea consomme pea juice 100% cinnamon essential oil to taste limejuice 0.01%

(optional)

rhubarb water rhubarb juice 100% white soy sauce 12% limejuice 2.5%

fructose to taste

shellfish consomme shellfish stock 100% lobster bodies 30% onion, thinly sliced 4%

crab knuckles 20% carrot, thinly sliced 4%

shrimp shells 12% tomato paste 1%

from page 2-374

OYSTER CONSOMME YieldsSOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Clarified unsalted butter 95 g 95% @ Saute prepared vegetables together until fragrant and

Scallions, thinly sliced 20 g 20% scallions are translucent, about 7 min.

Ginger, peeled and thinly 11 g 11%

sliced
Calangal, peeled and 9g 9%
thinly sliced
White vegetable stock 425 g 425% (D Add to scallion mixture, and mixtogether.
see page 6 (D Reduce to 300 g, aboutlS min.
Roasted coconut juice lOOg 100%
@ Strain.
(store-bought)
© Cool.
Clam juice 150 g 150%
see page 36
Sake (dry) llOg 110%

Lemongrass, thinly sliced 20 g 20%

Cilantro leaves and stems 5g 5% © Add to strained liquid.

Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf 2g 2% @ Steep in refrigerator for 2 h.

Oysterjuice 50 g 50% © Strain infused liquid, and season.

Limejuice to taste ® Clarify with vacuum filter.

Salt to taste @ Refrigerate until use.

from page 5-206

42 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 Cook

Method (°C) (°F) (h) Clarify

cook sous vide 88 190 2 freeze filtration CLARIFYING A CONSOMME
© Select a recipe. See the table at left for suggestions.
@ Combine the liquids, flavoring agents, and aromatics.

1 vacuum filtration Quantities given in the table are proportional to the weight
cook sous vide 80 176
of the principal liquid. For example, use 8 g of lager for
every 100 g of stock when making bacon consomme.
@ Cook (if applicable). Recommended cooking methods,
cook on stove top 90 194 10 min centrifugation temperatures, and times are indicated in the table. If
cooking sous vide, vacuum seal all ingredients together.
@ Clarify. See Strategies for Filtering Liquids and Clarifying
cook sous vide 80 176 1 methylcellulose fining
Consommes on page 2-352 for more details on the clari¬
fication methods suggested in the table; alternative
strategies may work as well.
® Season. For seasoning options, see Best Bets for Lowering
pH on page 22, Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor
infuse sous vide refrigerated 24 agar filtration
Enhancers on page 21, and Best Bets for Adding Flavor with
Alcohol on page 24.
cook sous vide 88 190 l'/2 freeze filtration
n/a centrifugation

n/a Buon Vino wine filter or Buchner

funnel with Whatman 597 paper

fry shells, cool, 88 190 1 centrifuge

cook sous vide

APPLE CIDER CONSOMME Yields 850 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sugar 40 g 8% © Cook over high heat; allow caramel to become dark.

Water 20 g 4%

White miso paste lOg 2%

Water 40 g 8% @ Deglaze caramel.

@ Whisk until dissolved.
@ Cool.

Apple cider 500 g 100% ® Combine with caramel water.

Green applejuice 250 g 50% ® Vacuum seal.

Cidervinegar lOg 2% @ Refrigerate for 4 h to infuse.

Malic acid 6g 1.2% ® Strain.

Salt 6g 1.2%

Thyme leaves 6g 1.2%

Pectinex Smash XXL 1.6g 0.32% @ Whisk into juice.

(Novozymes) (0.2%)* @ Pour into tall, clear container, and refrigerate for 24 h to clarify.
® Decant clarified liquid without disturbing solids settled at bottom.

® Check seasoning.
® Serve with grilled mackerel or raw foie gras dressed in walnut oil.

from page 2-377 *(% of total combined weight of apple cider, green apple juice, and cider vinegar)

During the clarification process, the enzyme will force solids to the bottom of the
container. See page 2-352 for more clarification methods.

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 43

SPRING GARLIC CONSOMME Yieids250g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Carrots, thinly sliced 80 g 40% © Saute together until onions are translucent.

White onions, thinly sliced 80 g 40%

Unsalted butter 25 g 12.5%

Duck meat, ground 350 g 175% @ Combine with carrots and onions.

Water 200 g 100% © Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of! bar/15 psiforl h.

Black peppercorns 0.2 g 0.1% ® Strain through fine sieve.

© Centrifuge at27,500^fori h.
© Strain, measure 100 g of consomme, and reserve.

Green garlic spears 200 g 100% © Blanch for 3 min.

© Puree.
© Centrifuge at 27,500^ fori h.
@ Measure 20 g of resulting clear juice, and whisk into consomme.

Lime juice to taste ® Season and serve, or vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

Salt to taste

from page 5-86

BAGNA cAuDA CONSOMME Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Garlic cloves, green 80 g 52% @ Saute garlic in oil until golden, and reserve.
removed and thinly sliced
Grapeseed oil 80 g 52%

Sweet onions, sliced 75 g 48% © Saute onions in butter and oil until translucent.

Unsalted butter 50 g 32%

Olive oil 25 g 16%

Clam juice 155 g 100% © Add reserved garlic and remaining ingredients to onions, and simmerfor20 min.
see page 36
® Cool.
Water 155 g 100%
© Process in centrifuge at 27,500^ fori h, or use alternative clarification method.
White wine (dry) 50 g 32%
© Refrigerate until use. Serve hot or cold.
Garlic confit 27 g 17.5%
see page 176

Anchovy, chopped 25 g 16%

Chives, minced 2g 1.3%

Thyme, minced Ig 0.6%

from page 5-230

PISTACHIO CONSOMME Yields 80 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Raw pistachios, shelled 100 g 33% ® Combine. The remaining nut solids in the
Sugar 15 g 5% © Roast in 190 °C / 375 °F oven until very dark and sugar centrifuge bottles are not used

Grapeseed oil lOg 3.3% has caramelized, about 20 min. for anything in this recipe or these
volumes, but they're a delicious
Water 300 R 100% © Puree with roasted pistachios until smooth.
snack for the chef.
Pistachio oil 20 g 6.6% ® Vacuum seal.
© Refrigerate for 12 h.
©Centrifuge at 27,500^ fori h.
@ Decant clear liquid through fine sieve, and discard
remaining solids.

Salt to taste ©Season.

@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.

from page 2-376

44 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

POT-AU-FEU CONSOMME Yields200g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Oxtail 300 g 40% ® Cut through center of bone and joints to release marrow.
Ground beefshank 750 g 100% @ Coat oxtail and ground beefshank with oil.
Neutral oil 75 g 10% @ Roast in 190 °C / 375 °F oven, stirring often to ensure even browning, until golden brown.
about 15 min.
Sweet onions, cut in half 280 g 37.3% @ Prepare vegetables as noted.
Turnips, peeled and thinly 200 g 26.6% ® Searonions, cut side down, until dark brown.
sliced
® Sweat vegetables and garlic in suet until tender.
Leeks, thinly sliced 170 g 22.6%
Celery root, peeled and 100 g 13.3%
thinly sliced
Garlic head, halved 70 g 9.3%
Rendered beef suet 50 g 6.6%
White beef stock 800 g 106.6% @ Combine with roasted meats and vegetables.
see page 6
® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 2 h.
Carrot juice 350 g 46.6%
® Strain, discarding solids.
(from about
550 g carrots) @ Clarify liquid with preferred method.

Parsnip juice 180 g 24% @ Reduce to 200 g.

(from about
650 g parsnips)
Black peppercorns 11 g 0.15% ® Add to consomme.
Cloves, whole 1g 0.13% @ Infuse at room temperature to desired flavor, about 5-7 min.
Allspice berries 0.55 g 0.07%

Salt to taste @ Season.

Sherry vinegar to taste

from page 5-52

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 45

 OXTAIL CONSOMME INSPIRED BY DAVID BOULEY Yields2.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Spanish onions, peeled and halved 500 g 25% @ Sear cut side down until light golden, about 8 min.
(two large ©Cool.
onions)
Water 50 g 2.5% @ Vacuum seal with seared onions.
@ Cook sous vide in 85 °C /185 °F bath for 7 h.

© Transfer mixture from bag to bowl, and cool.

® Strain, discarding onion solids.

© Measure 250 gof onion jus, and reserve.

Oxtail, jointed 1.5 kg 75% ® Brown oxtail over high heat on all sides until golden, about 15 min.
Neutral oil 30 g 1.5%
Brown beef stock 2 kg 100% ® Combine with browned oxtail in pressure cooker.
see pagelO
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 2 h.
Onion jus, from above 250 g 12.5%
@ Strain, discarding solids.
Gin 250 g 12.5%
@ Measure 2 kg of oxtail broth.
Veal marrow 250 g 12.5%
Button mushrooms, thinly sliced 150 g 7.5%
Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 100 g 5%
Celery stalk, peeled and thinly sliced 30 g 1.5%
Oxtail broth, from above 2 kg 100% ® Mix 200 g of broth with super methylcellulose.
Ground beef 300 g 15% @ Whisk into ground beef to make paste.
Super methylcellulose SGA150 2g 0.1% ©Mix paste into remaining oxtail broth for consomme,
(Dow brand) @ Simmerconsomme on low until clarified, about 45 min.
© Strain.
Bay leaf extract to taste © Season.
see page 27
For photos of the steps involving methyl-
Lovage leaves, fine julienne to taste cellulose, see page 2-359.
Salt to taste
Star anise extract to taste
see page 27

from page 2-376

RED COLESLAW Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green apple juice. 400 g 267% @ Combine.
clarified
© Vacuum concentrate, using vacuum reduction
Red cabbage juice, 400 g 267% equipment, to 150 g, about 2 h.
clarified
Red wine vinegar 400 g 267%
Honey 30 g 20% ® Season juice reduction.
Black peppercorns, 0.4 g 0.27%
finely crushed
Salt to taste
Red cabbage, julienne 150 g 100% @ Mix withjuice reduction, and serve immediately.
Pickled mustard seeds lOg 6.5%
see page 3-348

from page 5-72

46 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

HOW TO DISTILL WITH A ROTAVAP
© Prepare the liquid to be evaporated. If you are using citrus, remove the Boiling Point vs Vacuum Pressure
outer skin (zest) without including the white pith or the acidic juice. Mix
with vodka (or, optionally, higher concentrations of ethanol); run the To set your rotary evaporator, choose a temperature
mixture through a homogenizer or blenderto completely blend its appropriate forthe boiling point of the solvent or
components. Optionally, seal the zest-vodka mixture in a sous vide bag,
material you want to distill, and then adjust vacuum
and place the bag in an ultrasonic bath fori h (see page 2-415).
pressure accordingly.
@ Place the zest-vodka mixture in the evaporation flask of a rotary
evaporator. Boiling point Water Ethanol

@ Set the target vacuum to 50 mbar / 38 torr and the bath temperature to (“C) (°F) (mbar) (torr) (mbar) (torr)
35 °C / 95 °F. Set the condenser chilling water temperature to 1 °C / 34 °F
if you are using a helical condenser. If you are usinga cold-trap-style 20 68 23 17 58 44

condenser, fill it with ice water, and prepare a salt brine (see page 2-260).
30 86 42 32 102 77
You may have to use a higher bath temperature if the rate of distillation is
too slow. 40 104 72 54 167 125
@ Distill. The time required depends on the size of the batch and many
50 122 120 90 289 217
other factors. Check the condensation coil periodically; if the
condensation line rises more than three-quarters of the way up the 60 140 194 145 463 347
coil, or if you can smell what is being distilled, too many volatiles are
escaping. There are several ways to correct this problem. You can
decrease the condenser chilling water temperature, increase the flow, Because we start this recipe with One can also extract citrus essen¬
or do both. Oryou can decrease the bath temperature, but in that case, vodka and end up dilutingthe tial oil mechanically, instead of
you must also decrease the vacuum. Release the vacuum when result to 40% (80 proof) alcohol, distilling it. Commercially, this is
distillation is complete. no concentration of alcohol occurs. done by pressing; the result is
© Separate the oil from the solvent. Pipette the thin layerof oil floating We are simply using alcohol as a called a pressed essential oil.
on top of the receiving flask into a separatory funnel. Allow the oil to solventforthe citrus essential oils. You can make your own by homog¬
separate overnight, or use a centrifuge (see page 2-360) to separate the enizing citrus zest and alcohol as
components more quickly. in stepl (preferably by treating the
® Drain any solvent from the funnel, and then drain the essential oils into a We do not recommend mixture in an ultrasonic bath).
separate vessel. Then use a centrifuge to separate
distilling materials that are not
the oil. It will have a different
@ Keep the essential oil refrigerated in an airtight container. obviously food-grade. A safer
aromatic quality than the oil
approach is to collaborate with produced by distillation.
a perfumer to recreate the scent
with food-grade essences.

BUDDHA'S HAND VODKA Yields 1.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Vodka 1.5 kg 100% @ Blend together for 3 min. Optionally, infuse in sous vide bag or jar placed in an ultrasonic

Buddha's hand citron zest 400 g 27% bath fori h (see page 2-302).
@ Place liquid in rotary vacuum distillerforS h with vacuum pressure at 50 mbar/38 torr and
bath temperature at 35 °C/ 95 °F. Set condenser chilling water to 1 °C/34 °F.

©Distill.

Distilled water as needed ® Dilute distillate to 40% alcohol. Use hydrometer to measure ethanol concentration.

from page 2-389

VACUUM-CONCENTRATED APPLE AND CABBAGE JUICE Yields 180 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green applejuice, centrifuged 400 g 267% © Combine.

Red cabbagejuice, centrifuged 400 g 267% @ Set bath temperature to 50 °C/122 °F, condenser chilling water to 5 °C/41 °F,

267% and target pressure to 50 mbar/ 38 torr.

Red wine vinegar 400 g
© Distill.
® Reserve concentrated source liquid.

Juice concentrate, from above 150 g 100% © Season.

Because we discard the solvent, the concentra¬
Honey 30 g 20%
tion can be done by using a vacuum evaporator
Black peppercorns, finely crushed 0.4 g 0.27%
instead of a rotary evaporator.
Salt to taste

from page 2-389

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 47

MOCK TURTLE SOUP ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 4 kg (about 90 servings)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown beef stock 1 kg 200% © Gently warm stock until no longergelled butstill cool.
see page 10
@ Add cherry tomatoes, and infuse at room temperature for20 min. Strain, and reserve
cherry tomatoes, quartered 120 g 24% infused stock.
Mushroom jus 290 g 58% @ Combine, and mix with infused stock. Vacuum seal, and freeze.
see page 37
® When frozen, remove from bag, and place on perforated tray lined with double layer
Fino sherry 165 g 32% of cheesecloth.
White soy sauce 133 g 26% © Refrigerate, while freeze-filtering for 72 h (see page 2-370).

© Vacuum seal filtered stock, and freeze.

@ Transfer frozen stock to food processor; pulse until coarsely crushed.
©Drain crushed, frozen stock over fine sieve lined with double layer of cheesecloth.

® Collect thawed, concentrated stock, and discard remaining ice.

@ Transfer concentrated stock to Genevan Rocket bottles, and reduce by half at 8 mbar /
6 torr, heating temperature of 50 °C/ 122 °F, and condenser at 1 °C/ 34 °F.

@ Reserve 500 g of reduced stock.

Freeze-concentrated stock, 500 g 100% @ Combine, and vacuum seal.

from above ® Cook in 60 °C/ 140 °F bath until all gelatin dissolves, about 5 min.
Gelatin, 160 Bloom 60 g 12% ® Transferto depositingfunnel, and dispense 6 g into each pocket-watch silicone mold.
@ Refrigerate, and allow to set completely, about 4 h.

Gold leaf sheets as needed ® Remove gelled stock from molds, and place flat side down on corner of gold leaf sheet.
Use tweezers to gently fold gold leaf over top of each gelled stock portion; use fine
brush to tuck gold leaf under bottom edges.

@ Refrigerate until needed.

@ To serve, place each stock portion in bottom of teacup; pour 40 g of hot water over
stock. Stir until gelled stock dissolves.

from page 2-394

INDIES SPICE BLEND ADAPTED FROM OLIVIER ROELLINCER Yields20g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Most Indian recipes start with Corianderseeds 2-1 g 28% @ Combine and toast in frying pan until fragrant.
toasting spices in a dry frying pan Black peppercorns 22.7% @ Remove from heat, and cool.
l-7g
to develop the flavor. A better way
Caraway seeds 1.5g 20%
to toast spices is to put them in a
shallow pan in a combi oven or Cinnamon stick, grated Ig 13.3%

convection oven at 170 °C / 338 °F Mace Ig 13.3%

until fragrant. This avoids scorching Sichuan peppercorns 13.3%
Ig
the spices.
Star anise 0.4 g 5.3%
Clove 0.2 g 2.7%
Turmeric powder 7.5 g 100% © Combine in coffee grinder with toasted

Orange peel, grated 2.5g 33.3% spice blend.

To make the vanilla seedpod @ Grind to fine powder.
Vanilla seeds and pulp 1.5g 20%
scrapings, splitavanilla bean
Cayenne pepper 0.5 g 6.7% © Store in airtight container until needed.
lengthwise with a knife then
scrape the seeds and the residue from page 2-403
surroundingthem from the
seedpod. QUATRE EPICES Yields 420 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Black peppercorns 200 g 100% ® Toast spices in dry skillet until fragrant.
Cinnamon, ground lOOg 50% © Combine in coffee grinderand grind to
Nutmeg 80 g 40% fine powder.

Cloves 40 g 20% © Store in airtight container until needed.

from page 2-403

48 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

CHILI TOMATO SPICE BLEND
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Freeze-dried tomatoes 30 g 100% @ Grind together to fine powder.
see page 188
@ Store in airtight container until needed.
Freeze-dried piquillo pepper 25 g 83%
see page 188

Coriander seeds, toasted and ground 5g 16.7%

Sweet paprika powder 5g 16.7%
Controne hot pepper, finely ground 2g 6.7%
Hot-smoked paprika powder 1g 3.3%
Saffron threads 1g 3.3%
Fennel seeds, toasted and ground 0.6 g 2%
Ajowan seeds, toasted and ground 0.5 g 1.7%
from page 2-403

MEMPHIS RUB Yields 32.5 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

For ourfriends who think barbecu¬
Sweet Hungarian paprika 12.5 g 100% @ Grind finely, and sieve.
ing is throwing a piece of meat on a
Salt 7.5 g 60% flaming-hot grill: it's not. That's grill¬
Garlic powder 3g 24% ing. Barbecuing is done low and
Chili powder 2.5 g 20% slow, with lots of smoke (see
(McCormick brand) Smoking, page 2-132). In some
places, you'd be laughed out of
Onion powder 2.5 g 20%
town orworseforsuggesting
Sweet paprika 2.5g 20% otherwise.
Black peppercorns 2g 16%
from page 5-68

KANSAS RUB Yields 60 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown sugar 50 g 100% © Grind finely, and sieve.
Salt 4g 8%
Black pepper, ground 3.5 g 7% Dry rubs are usually put on 12 hours
before cooking. However, we also
Chili powder 2.5g 5%
use them as a spice mix added at
(McCormick brand)
the end.
Sweet paprika 2.5g 5%
Garlic powder 1.5 g 3%
Onion powder Ig 2%

Red chili, minced Tg 2%

from page 5-68

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 49

 CHAAT MASALA Yields 70 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Corianderseeds 19g 76% @ Combine, and roast in 175 °C / 350 °F oven until
Cumin seeds 60% golden, about 7 min.
15 g
Ajowan 3g 12%

Black peppercorns 3g 12%

Dried chilies Ig 4%

Salt 25 g 100% (D Combine roasted spice mixwith remaining

Dried green mango 32% ingredients.

8g
powder (amchoor) @ Grind mixture to powder.
Dry pomegranate seeds 4g 16% @ Pass through fine sieve, and vacuum seal and
(anardana) refrigerate until use.

from page 5-282

SWEET SPICE BLEND Yields 25 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Star anise, toasted lOg 100% @ Mix together.

and ground @ Vacuum seal and reserve until use.
Dried ginger, ground 4g 40%

Vanilla bean seeds and 4g 40%

pulp
Black pepper, ground 3g 30%

Cinnamon, toasted 3g 30%

and ground
Nutmeg, ground 1.5g 15%

from page 5-212

PASSION ERUITGRANITA Yields 180 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Passion fruitjuice 150 g 100% @ Combine.

Sugar 20 g 13.5% @ Transfer to Pacojet beaker, and freeze. Alternatively,

Lime juice lOg 6.5% freeze mixture in container, and break it up with fork
into flakes periodically as it freezes. Reserve frozen.
Salt 1.5g 1%
@ Pacotize once to serve.

from page 5-177

50 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

FISH SPICE MIX Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Hazelnuts, peeled, 24 g 100% @ Prepare ingredients as noted.
roasted, and coarsely This spice mixture is incredibly
@ Combine in food processor or mortar. versatile. We highly recommend it
ground
@ Grind to coarse powder. forsole, turbot, orany similarfish
Sesame seeds, toasted 22 g 92%
@ Vacuum seal to preserve aroma. simply panfried in butter.
Coriander seeds, toasted 6g 25%
© Refrigerate until use.
White poppyseeds, 5g 22%
toasted
Dried ginger, ground 2g 8.5%
Salt 1.6g 6.5%
Dried chamomile, ground 1.2 g 0.05%
from page 5154

PAIN D'EPICES POWDER Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cinnamon stick 8g 3.3% © Toast spices together in 170 °C / 340 °F oven.
Star anise 3.2 g 1.3% @ Grind spices to fine powder.
Cloves 2.5 g 1%
Aniseeds 2g 0.8%
Coriander seeds 2g 0.8%
Spray-dried honey 240 g 100% @ Blend into toasted spice powder.
powder (store-bought)

Salt 12 g 5%
Ginger powder 3g 1.3%
Nutmeg, grated 3g 1.3%

Mace blade 1.5g 0.6%

Orange zest, grated l-2g 0.5%
from page 5-22

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 51

 CITRUS SPICE ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 30 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Orange zest, finely grated 11 g 100% @ Combine.
(from two oranges) (D Spread on silicone baking mat.
Lemon zest, finely grated 9g 82%
@ Dehydrate at 50 °C/120 °F until completely dried, about 35 min.
(from two lemons)
Lime zest, finely grated 3g 27%
(from two limes)
Licorice root, finely ground 3g 27% @ Combine with dried zest and grind to fine powder.
Vanilla seeds and pulp 1.5 g 13.6% @ Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Coffee beans, roasted and Ig 9%
finely ground
Corianderseeds, deeply toasted Ig 9%
and finely ground
Mint leaves, freeze-dried Ig 9%
see page 188 (20 leaves)
from page 2-404

LICORICE POWDER ADAPTED FROM MICHEL BRAS Yields 280 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Black olives, pitted 400 g 250% ® Arrange on nonstick bakingsheet in one even layer.
@ Dehydrate in 80 °C /175 °F oven for 8-12 h until completely dried.
@ Measure 160 g of dried olives.
Dried black olives, from above 160 g 100% ©Grind together to fine powder (N-Zorbit M will prevent powder from turning
N-Zorbit M 20 g 12.5% into paste), and reserve.
(National Starch brand)
Almond powder(meal) 80 g 50% ©Mix together, and spread on nonstick baking sheet.
Demerara sugar lOg 6.25% ® Bake in 135 °C / 275 °F oven until light golden, about 35 min, and cool,
@ Blend into olive powder.
Licorice root, finely ground 5g 3.1% ® Stir into powder.
Salt 5g 3.1%
Tonka beans, finely ground Ig 0.625%
from page 2-405

RAS EL HANOUT Yields 155 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Ginger powder 40 g 100% ® Dry-blend together.
Turmeric powder 30 g 75% @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Black peppercorns, finely ground 25 g 62.5%
Corianderseeds, finely ground, 15 g 37.5%
toasted
Grains of paradise, finely ground, 12 g 30%
toasted
Cinnamon stick, finely ground 5-5 g 13.75%
Star anise, finely ground, toasted 5-5 g 13.75%
Dried chili, finely ground 5-4 g 13.5%
Dried rosebuds, finely ground 5g 12.5%
Allspice, finely ground 4g 10%
Cubeb pepper, finely ground, toasted 3,6 g 9%
Clove, finely ground 2g 5%
Nutmeg, finely ground 2g 5%
from page 2-405

52 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 EXOTIC SPICE MIXTURE inspired by ol IVIER ROELLINCER Yields 90 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sesame seeds 50 g 100% ® Combine, and toast in frying pan until golden.
Cumin seeds 8.2 g 16.4% @ Cool completely, and reserve.
Sumac 18g 36% @ Grind together in spice grinder.
Ajowan seeds 6.5 g 13% @ Add sesame and cumin blend, and grind to fine powder.
Dried oregano 2.9g 5.8% ® Store in airtight container until needed.
Cardamom seeds 2g 4%
Ground cinnamon 2g 4%
Nutmeg, freshly ground 1.5g 3%
from page 2-405

PACOJET PEA SOUP Yields 660 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green peas, frozen 300 g 100% ® Combine and transfer to Pacojet beaker.
Heavy cream 4. 4.1 4. ,.or This soup is best served when at
200 g 67% (2) Freeze to at least-20 °C/-4 °F. . . ^
or below 60°C /140 °F, so that it
Pea juice 150 g 50% @ Pacotize once. retains its sweetness. At higher
see page 41 (from 500 gof
{or white vegetable stock, page 6) @ Optionally, freeze and Pacotize once more for temperatures, the peas will taste
peas)
smoother texture. cooked and less sweet.
® Transfer soup to pot, and warm until just melted
and velvety.
Salt 6g 2% ® Season.
Mint leaves, fine julienne 3g 1%

from page 2-410

MOZZARELLA POWDER Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Buffalo mozzarella 250 g 100% ® Cut into 2.5 cm /1 in cubes.
Buffalo mozzarella brine 100 g 40% @ Dissolve glucose into whey.
Glucose syrup DE 40 lOOg 40% @ Blend whey mixture with mozzarella cubes until smooth.

® Transfer mixture to Pacojet beaker and freeze to at least-20 °C/-4°F.

© Pacotize once without venting.

® Serve powder immediately, or store frozen for up to 1 h.

from page 2-411

EROZEN CHEDDAR-CHEESE POWDER Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water, cold 250 g 100% ® Combine.
Agar 2g 0.8% @ Bring to boil, and hold fori min to fully hydrate.
© Blend over ice-water bath to create fluid gel.
Sodium citrate 8g 3.2% @ Disperse into fluid gel.
© Bring mixture to simmer.
Cheddar cheese, finely grated 150 g 60% ® Incorporate slowly into simmering mixture until fully melted.
Salt 2.5 g 1% @ Transfer mixture to Pacojet beaker, and freeze to -30 °C / -11 °F.
® Pacotize once, and refreeze to -60 °C / -76 “F.
® Pacotize again once more to make very fine powder.

® Serve immediately or store frozen for up to 1 h.

from page 2-411

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 53

HOW TO MILL A CREAMY NUT BUTTER

@ Place the nuts in the feed funnel of the mill. Any tree nuts or peanuts will work.
©Run nuts through the machine. Repeat as many times as necessary to achieve the desired texture, tightening the
collarfor each successive pass. In using our machine, we have found that four passes yields a silky-smooth butter.

FROZEN CREME-FRAICHE AND PINE-NUT CREAM Yieidsikg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 500 g 500% ® Blend together.

Glucose syrup DE 40 135 g 135% @ Place in Pacojet beaker, and freeze to at least -20 °C / -4 "F.

Creme fralche lOOg 100% @ Pacotize once.

Pine-nut butter lOOg 100% ® Serve frozen cream immediately, orfreeze.

see above
Skim milk powder 79 g 79%

Isomalt 60 g 60%

Salt lOg 10%

Sugar lOg 10%

Guar gum 2g 2%

from page 2-411

SOUR RHUBARB SORBET Yields 780 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Rhubarb, thinly sliced 500 g 100% @ Vacuum seal.

Glucose syrup DE 40 130 g 26% @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C /194 °F bath for 2 h.

Sugar 30 g 6% @ Pass through fine sieve.

Rhubarbjuice 200 g 40% @ Blend with cooked rhubarb.

(from 350 g ® Adjust acidity to taste.
rhubarb)
® Freeze in Pacojet container. Alternatively, churn in ice cream machine, and store in freezer.
White balsamic vinegar 9g 1.8%
@ To serve, Pacotize or temper churned sorbet.
(or other semisweet white
vinegar)
Malic acid 3g 0.6%

from page 5-279

Yields 950 g
ROMESCO SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 150 g 60% @ Soak peppers at room temperature for2 h.

Smoked Hungarian paprika 20 g 8% @ Remove peppers from water, and blend into paste.
peppers, dried @ Press through fine sieve.

Olive oil 250 g 100% @ Combine with paste.

Pine nuts, toasted 250 g 100% ® Process mixture 3-4 times through colloid mill, using increasingly fine settings until
gg% desired texture is achieved.
Hazelnuts, peeled and toasted 150 g

Piquillo peppers (store-bought 150 g 60%

in jar, seeded)
Red wine vinegar 90 g 36%

Garlic cloves, blanched 19.5 g 7.8%

Paprika 9.5 g 3.8%

Pomegranate molasses 8g 3.2%

(store-bought)
Salt to taste ® Season.

from page 2-419

54 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

MAKING A SMOOTH PUREE

® Prepare the vegetables by cutting into evenly shaped, small pieces, as @ Combine vegetable with the liquid orseasoning indicated in the table.
indicated in the table below. Set the weight of the produce to 100%. For example, use 12 g of butter for
@ Cook as indicated. Suggested methods, temperatures, and times are every 100 g of mushrooms.
listed in the table. @ Puree by using the tool indicated, and pass through a fine sieve.
Optionally, process with rotor-stator homogenizer, ultrahigh-pressure
homogenizer, or ultrasonic homogenizer for finer texture. For large
quantities, a colloid mill is an ideal tool.

Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees

Cook
Ingredient Prep Method (“O {°F) (min) Liquid (scaling)* Tool See page
apple peeled, quartered sous vide 90 194 21/2 h commercial 5-17
blender
asparagus thinly sliced saute high heat 10 vegetable stock 25% commercial 33
unsalted butter 15% blender

artichoke hearts, thinly sliced sous vide 90 194 45 vegetable stock 50% commercial
olive oil 5% blender

beet peeled, thinly sous vide 90 194 1 h cooked beet 50% commercial
sliced juice blender
unsalted butter 15%
broccoli stems, peeled saute medium heat 12 neutral oil 3% commercial next page
and sliced blender
florets, sliced boil high heat 4 hazelnut oil 10%
carrot peeled, saute medium- low heat 30 carrot juice 50% commercial 150
thinly sliced carotene butter 15% blender

cauliflower florets, sliced saute medium-1low heat l'/2 h vegetable stock 50% commercial 5-281
unsalted butter 15% blender

corn kernels sous vide 85 185 1 h corn juice 25% commercial 5-101
unsalted butter 15% blender

celery root peeled. sous vide 90 194 11/2 h skim milk 34% commercial 57
thinly sliced unsalted butter 15% blender

Jerusalem thinly sliced saute medium 45 whole milk 25% commercial

artichoke heat blender
unsalted butter 15%
mushroom thinly sliced saute medium- 30 water 50% commercial 57
high heat unsalted butter 12% blender
onion peeled oven roast 175 345 35 whole milk 12.5% commercial next
blender
parsley leaves sous vide 90 194 7 water to cover Pacojet
parsnip peeled. sous vide 90 194 45 unsalted butter 25% commercial
thinly sliced blender

pea whole freeze and n/a pea juice 50% Pacojet 53

thaw heavy cream 10%
potato peeled. sous vide 100 212 35 unsalted butter 50% food mill or ricer 144,148,151
thinly sliced heavy cream 30%
shallot peeled. saute medium heat 30 unsalted butter 25% commercial
thinly sliced blender

spinach leaves blanch 90 194 7 water 15% Pacojet

winter peeled. sous vide 90 194 45 commercial 5-60

squash thinly sliced blender
from page 2-425 *{set weight of prepared vegetable to 100%)

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 55

BROCCOLI AND HAZELNUT-OIL PUREE inspired by jacques maximin Yieids4oog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

300 g 100% ® Blanch florets In 2% saline water for 3 min.
Broccoli florets
@ Rinse in ice water.

220 g 73% @ Saute stalks until golden and tender, about 4 min. Cool.
Broccoli stalks,
peeled and sliced
Neutral oil lOg 3%

Roasted hazelnut oil 30 g 10% @ Combine with florets and stalks.

(Walnut oil orothernut ® Puree in blender on high power until smooth.

oils can also be used for ® Transfer puree to beaker.
this recipe) @ Process with rotor-stator homogenizer at 4,000 rpm until extremely silky, about 3 min.

to taste ® Season and drizzle with more hazelnut oil if desired.

Salt
® Warm through or refrigerate until use.

from page 2-426

Yields 700 g
CREAMED WATERCRESS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

450 g 150% ® Cook sous vide in 90 °C /194 °F bath for 7 min.

Watercress,
large branches removed @ Shock in ice water, and then remove from bag.

@ Puree.
@ Pass through fine sieve.
® Measure 300 g of puree for recipe, and reserve.

125 g 42% ® Dry-blend gellan and sodium citrate, and disperse in water.
Water
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 7g 2.3% @ Vacuum seal solution.

E, CP Kelco brand) (12%)* ® Hydrate sous vide in 85 °C /185 °F bath for 5 min.

Sodium citrate 2g 0.7% @ Refrigerate gel stock until set.

(0.35%,)*

Watercress puree, from 300 g 100% @ Combine with gel stock.

above @ Puree.
Glucose syrup DE 40 60 g 20%

White onion, thinly sliced 51 g 17%

and blanched
Water 21 g 7%

Olive oil 51 g 17% @ Combine with puree.

Maltodextrin DEf9 27 g 9% @ Pour into Pacojet beaker.

Egg white 24 g 8% ® Freeze to at least -20 °C / -4 °F.

Garlic, thinly sliced and 20 g 7% @ To serve, Pacotize once and serve cold as garnish for roast beef, or warm and use as sauce for

blanched once roasted fish.

Capers 15 g 5%

Salt 9g 3%

from page 2-426 *(%oof total combined weight of the puree and subsequent ingredients)

56 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 PISTACHIO PUREE ADAPTED FROM ALEX STUPAK Yields 445 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sicilian pistachios, shelled 200 g 100% ® Soak pistachios in water for 12 h, refrigerated.
Water 125 g 62.5%
Pistachio oil 75 g 37.5% @ Puree together pistachios and soaking water, oil. A colloid mill works superbly for
Glucose syrup DE 40 40 g 20% and glucose. making pistachio puree, as shown
Salt 2% @ Pass through fine sieve. on page 54. A blender or Pacojet
4g
also works
® Season with salt.
N-Zorbit M (National 2.5g 1.25% ® Whisk into puree to thicken.
Starch brand)
{0.6/o) 0 Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

from page 2-427 *(% of total combined weight offirstfour ingredients)

BLACK TRUFFLE CONCENTRATE Yields 325 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Black wintertruffles, scrubbed 100 g 100% @ Combine and puree in blender orwith rotor-
This puree is quite expensive
thoroughly and thinly sliced stator homogenizes
and a small amount can go a long
Brown chicken jus 25 g 25% @ Vacuum seal puree. way. Use it sparingly as a seasoning
see page 34
@ Cook sous vide in 80 °C/176 °F bath fori h. for sauces and dressings. To make
Red wine (dry) 15 g 15%
@ Transfer sealed puree to ultrasonic bath a more diluted puree that can be
Portobello mushroom gills lOg 10% served as a garnish, use more
if available (see page 2-415), and process for
Tawny port (medium dry) lOg 10% 30 min. If bath is unavailable, proceed with liquid, and then thicken with a fluid
remaining steps. gel (see page 4-176) or blend into a
mushroom puree (see page 5-216).
® Refrigerate sealed puree for later use, or
European summerand autumn
prepare to serve.
truffles, Oregon truffles, and
® To serve, warm sealed puree in 80 °C/176 °F Australian truffles are all accept¬
bath forlO min. able substitutes.
@ Remove from bag, and blend until completely
smooth.
Black truffle oil (store-bought) 7g 3.5% ® Season, and serve immediately.
Champagne vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
from page 2-427

CELERY ROOT MOUSSELINE YieldsSOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sugar 30 g 10% ® Heat to 190 °C / 375 °F to make caramel.
@ Cool completely.
@ Break into small pieces.
Celery roots, peeled and 300 g 100% ® Vacuum seal with caramel.
thinly sliced
® Cook sous vide in 90 ‘’C/195 °F bath fori’A h.
Skim milk 100 g 33% ® Combine, and bringto simmer.
Unsalted butter 45 g 15% @ Add celery roots, and puree to fine consistency.
® Pass through fine sieve.
Roasted peanut oil 30 g 10% @ Whisk in oil, and season.
Salt to taste @ Serve or cool and refrigerate until use.
from page 2-427

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 57

 FREEZE-DRYING
® Prepare the ingredients. Cut the food into bite-size pieces or thin slices temperature of the food is within F °C/2 °F of the shelf temperature.
to greatly reduce drying times. Arrange the food in a single layer on Because of the physics of freeze-drying, the core temperature of the food
conductive trays that fit in your dryer. Aerate liquids and purees before may fall at first. This is not unusual. But if the core temperature of the
freezing orgrind them into small pieces after freezing. food fails to increase within a few hours, increase the shelftemperature

@ Prefreeze the food to below the critical temperature. See the table by 5 °C /10 °F to supply more energy.

Prefreezing Temperatures for Freeze-Dried Foods on the next page for ® Increase the shelftemperature to 5 °C/40 “F. When the core
suggested temperatures. Faster freezing will yield better texture but will temperature of the food exceeds 0 °C / 32 °F, preliminary drying
slow sublimation. Some foods have critical temperatures so low that is complete.
liquid nitrogen or a laboratory freezer is needed to reach them. ® Begin secondary drying. Set the condenser to the coldest temperature
@ Set the freeze dryer temperatures. Set the shelf temperature to 20 °C / available and increase the shelftemperature to the temperature
36 °F above the critical temperature of the prefrozen food. Set the recommended in the table on the next page, or 20-60 °C/ 70-140 °F
condenserto 20 °C / 36 °F below the critical temperature. (as warm as the food will tolerate without damage). When the core
@ Freeze-dry the food. Insert a fine temperature probe into the core of temperature of the food reaches the shelftemperature, freeze-drying
the frozen food. Engage the vacuum pump, and run it until the core is complete.

Best Bets for Freeze-Drying

Drying temperatures

Primary Secondary Total

drying
Dimension shelf Condenser Shelf time

Ingredient Prep (cm) (in) (°c) (°F) (°C) (°F) (°C) (°F) (h) Example use

beef raw, sliced 1 Ys -20 -4 -45 -49 30 86 8 grind to a fine powder, and use to form a meaty
crust on steaks and hamburgers

beef raw, pounded paper -thin -20 -4 -45 -49 30 86 4 break into "carpaccio chips," and dust with
tenderloin olive oil, grated Parmesan, and arugula powder

eggs cooked, peeled sliced or -35 -31 -60 -76 60 140 12 Astronaut Ramen
quartered

fruits sliced 0.1 -40 -40 -65 -85 30 86 4 enjoy whole; use in cereal or as a garnish or
seasoning
pureed 1 % 8

chunks 2 y4 64

ice cream sliced 2.5 1 -30 -22 -55 -67 40 104 96 sold commercially as astronaut ice cream

lettuce and leaves whole -25 -13 -50 -58 40 104 12 Caesar Salad (see page 189)
tender greens
lobster raw, whole, shelled -10 14 -35 -31 20 68 120 reconstitute in melted butter; grind to a
powder, and use as a seasoning

noodles cooked 0.1 -15 5 -40 -40 70 158 12 Astronaut Ramen

pork belly cooked or raw, 0.5 'A -20 -4 -45 -49 30 86 6

thinly sliced

pork shoulder cooked tender, shredded -20 -4 -45 -49 30 86 12

scallops raw, pureed -10 14 -35 -31 20 68 8 grind to a fine powder, and use as a seasoning

whole 48 break into panko-like slivers, and use as a

breading or garnish

stocks, broths, cubed 2 y4 -15 5 -40 -40 70 158 36 instant bouillon, breading; use to enrich soups
and sauces ground 1 8 and sauces
Ys
vegetables fine julienne -25 -13 -50 -58 40 104 4 Astronaut Ramen, breading, onion tart, instant

minced 4 potato flakes

sliced 0.1 (42 4

mushroom caps whole 24

pureed 1 Ys 8

from page 2-451

58 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 HOW TO USE A SPRAY DRYER

© Prepare the liquid. Add a bulking agent and any flavoring as needed.
@ Begin spray-drying. The powder will collect in a receptacle at the bottom
Place the liquid into the intake system ofthe spray dryer.
ofthe machine. If the liquid is too wet and sticky, or if it clumps, increase
@ Set the temperature ofthe liquid spray. Use the dial at the top ofthe the amount of bulking agent, and set the inlet and outlet temperatures
machine to set the spray or inlet-control temperature. We have found 5-10 °C/10-20°F higher.
70 °C /160 °F to be a good starting point for kitchen-scale machines.
@ Set the air temperature or outlet temperature. The control is at the base
ofthe machine. Start at 50 °C/120 °F.
Evaporative cooling keeps the juice much cooler as it dries than the outlet
temperature would suggest.

SPRAY-DRIED BUTTERMILK
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE
Buttermilk 2 kg 100% © Blend together thoroughly.
Dextrose DE36 20 g 1% © Set spray dryer's inlet temperature to 90 °C/^94 °F. The outlet temperature
Microcrystalline cellulose 20 g 1% should read about 57 °C /135 °F.
(Avicel CC 200, EMC
@ Spray-dry atfull pressure until liquid is fully processed, about2 h.
Biopolymer brand)
® Store powder in airtight container.
Eacticacid 0.4 g 0.02%
from page 2-443

SPRAY-DRIED BLOOD ORANGEJUICE

Yields 250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Blood orange juice, clarified 2 kg 100% © Blend togetherthoroughly.
Maltodextrin DE 9 lOOg 5% © Set spray dryer's inlet temperature to 100 °C/212 "F. The outlet temperature
Citric acid 20 g 1% should read approximately 65 °C/149 “F.

@ Spray-dry at full pressure until liquid is fully processed, about 2 h.

@ Allow spray-dried juice to cool completely. If powder clumps, grind in coffee grinder,
and try adding more maltodextrin and using higher drying temperature for the next
batch.

® Store powder in an airtight container.

from page 2-443

Prefreezing Temperatures
for Freeze-Dried Foods
Freeze to below
Ingredient (°C) (“F)

fruit -45 -49

eggs -40 -40

ice cream -35 -31

vegetables -30 -22

meat -25 -13

when freeze-drying liquids such as stocks, grind
pastas, grains, and legumes -20 -4
the frozen liquid before spreading it out as a thin
stocks, broths, and sauces -20 -4 layer for much faster drying. A Pacojet does a
good job on the grinding.
seafood -15 5

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 59

 FREEZE-DRIED BEEF GRAVY GRANULES Yielcls200g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef shank, ground 1.2 kg 160% ® Panfry; brown until dark.
Neutral oil 100 g 13.3% @ Remove beeffrom pan, and reserve.
@ Measure 50 g of rendered suet and reserve.
Carrots, thinly sliced 150 g 20% @ Prepare vegetables as noted.
Button mushrooms, thinly sliced 100 g 13.3% ® Brown vegetables together in suet until deep amber.
Leeks, thinly sliced lOOg 13.3%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced lOOg 13.3%
Turnips, thinly sliced lOOg 13.3%
Garlic heads, split 75 g 10%
Rendered suet, from above 50 g 6.7%
Red wine 150 g 20% ® Deglaze vegetables.
o

Brandy 6.7%
era

@ Add browned beef.

White beef stock 1 kg 133% ® Transfer beef and vegetable mixture to pressure cooker.
see page 6
©Add stock, and pressure-cook at 1 bar /15 psi fori h.
® Strain through fine sieve.
@ Pour strained stock into centrifuge bottles.

@ Centrifuge at 27,500^ for 1 h, and strain through fine sieve.

@ Measure 750 g of stock, and cool.
Centrifuged beef stock, from above 750 g 100% @ Disperse gelatin into cold stock, and warm to dissolve gelatin.
160 Bloom gelatin 7.5 g 1% ® Pour stock into 30.5 cm by 20 cm / 12 in by 8 in hotel pan, and freeze completely.
® Wrap frozen stock sheet in cheesecloth.

@ Place perforated hotel pan (30.5 cm by 20 cm / 12 in by 8 in) onto another hotel

pan that is same size but deeper.

® Lay wrapped frozen stock sheet flat on perforated pan; allow thawing stock to
drip down into deeper pan below it.

® Freeze-dry clarified broth for 12 h, by using table on page 58.

For rehydration;

Freeze-dried beef gravy granules 12 g 1.6% @ Mix together.

Ultra-Sperse A 8g 1.1%
Salt 2g 0.3%
Water, boiling 120 g 16% @ Whisk into dry blend.

@ Divide gravy into four servings.

from page 2-454

SALTED, FREEZE-DRIED LOBSTER Yields 20 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 100 g 167% @ Mix until dissolved.
Salt 7g 12%
Lobster tail 60 g 100% @ Brine, refrigerated, for 12 h. Cook sous vide in 57 °C/135 °F bath for 20 min.
@ Freeze-dry forl2 h, by using the table on page 58.
@ To use as seasoning, grate the dried lobster over food.
from page 2-454

60 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

RAMEN VEGETABLES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Mirin 205 g 205% @ Combine, vacuum seal, and cooksous vide in 80 °C/176 °F bath for2 h.
Water 205 g 205% @ Cool.
Soy sauce 105 g 105% (D Strain; discard liquid.
Bamboo shoots lOOg 100% @ Slice bamboo shoots 1 mm /'/is in thin.
Sugar 50 g 50% © Freeze-dry by using the table on page 58.
Carrots, finejulienne 100 g 100% © Blanch for30 s.

@ Shock in ice-water bath.

© Freeze-dry as above.
Young ginger, minced 40 g 40% © Vacuum seal and cooksous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath fori h.
@ Freeze-dry as above.
Hon-shimeji mushrooms, tops lOOg 100% @ Freeze-dry as above.
Scallions, greens only, 100 g 100%
finejulienne
from page 2-455

RAMEN STOCK POWDER Yields 38 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Japanese stock 300 g 100% @ Combine and vacuum seal.
see page 6
© Cook sous vide in 60 °C /140 °F bath fori h.
Chinese everyday stock 250 g 83%
@ Strain.
see page 6
@ Heat broth to 85 “C/ISS °F.
Scallions, whites only. lOg 3.3%
thinly sliced
For more on how to assemble these components to
Kombu 6g 2% make Astronaut Ramen, see page 5-247.
Smithfield ham, thinly sliced 6g 2%
Garlic, finely minced 5g 1.7%
Dried scallop (store-bought) 4g 1.3% © Add to simmering broth.
Bonito flakes (katsuobushi) 2g 0.7% © Steep forlO s.
White soy sauce to taste @ Strain.
© Season.

® Freeze-dry by usingthe table on page 58.

@ Grind into powder,
from page 2-455

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 61

 HOW TO CARBONATE FRUIT WITH DRY ICE

@ Put a layer of crushed dry ice in the bottom ofa plastic, sealable @ Seal container. The lid may pop offa couple oftimes due to a buildup
container. Remember to use all safety procedures when handling dry ice. of air pressure. That's fine. Just put the lid back on.
(D Place an insulating layer of paper towels or a clean, dry tea towel on © Let the fruit carbonate. This will take only 30 min for small fruits like
the ice layer. This protects the fruit from the extreme temperature of grapes and overnight for larger, whole fruits like apples and oranges.
the dry ice. Longer carbonation times require refrigeration.
@ Put the cold fruit on the insulating layer. Let the dry ice and fruit settle a
few minutes so that the "steam" pushes out the oxygen in the container.

STRAWBERRY MILK SHAKE adapted fr OM JUAN MARI ARZAK Yields 1.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Strawberries, 1 kg 167% ® Arrange in one layer, and dust with fructose.
washed and trimmed
© Freeze.
Fructose 400 g 67% © Thaw at room temperature.
@ Puree.

© Strain through fine sieve and reserve 600 g of strawberry juice.

Skim milk 600 g 100% ® Disperse powders in milk.

Sweet whey powder 12 g 2% @ Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
(1%)* ® Cool.
Locust bean gum l-2g 0.2%
(Tic Gums brand) io.m*
Strawberryjuice, from above 600 g 100% @ Blend cooled milk into reserved juice.
Dry ice 100 g 16.7% @ Crush dry ice in blenderto fine powder.
@ Divide evenly among four glasses.

@ Pour 200 g of milkshake into each glass. Wait 10 s; milkshakes will bubble over.
@ Serve alongside our Mushroom Swiss Burger (see page 5-11).
from page 2-473 *{% of the total weight of the strawberry juice and milk)

ORANGE SODA Yields340g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Navel orange juice 300 g (from 100% © Centrifuge at 27,500^ fori h.
see page 2-352 700 g of oranges) @ Strain through fine sieve.
Fructose 30 g 10% © Combine with juice, and reserve. For other methods of darifying juice,
Phosphoric acid 0.67% see page 2-352.
2g
Gum arabic 5g 1.67% ® Blend together until smooth.
Water 2g 0.67% © Add 1.5 g of emulsion to sweetened juice, and
Orange essential oil 0.12 g 0.04% refrigerate remaining emulsion for later use.
(about ® Hand-blend juice until smooth.
seven drops) @ Strain through fine sieve.

© Transferto soda siphon, and charge with two

carbon dioxide cartridges.
© Refrigerate soda in siphons for at least 2 h
before serving.
from page 2-472

62 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

CARBONATED GOLDEN RAISINS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Verjuice (store-bought) 125 g 250% ® Combine.
Golden raisins 50 g 100% @ Refrigerate for 2 h to hydrate.
Water lOg 20% @ Transferto carbonating siphon, and charge with three
carbon dioxide cartridges fori'A h before serving.
from page 5-159

SHIGOKU OYSTER WITH LIZZY GRAPES, vieidssoog

FRESH WASABI, AND MISO POWDER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shiro miso 150g 125% ® Dehydrate at 45 °C/113 °F for 12 h.
©Grind to fine powder, and reserve.
Shigoku oysters (or 120 g 100% @ Shuck, reserving juice.
Kumamoto) (12 oysters) @ Clean thoroughly.
© Refrigerate oysters.
® Strain juice, and measure 40 g.
Muscat grapes 120 g 100% @ Blanch forlO s.
® Shock in ice water.
® Peel, and halve through stem end.
Verjuice (store-bought) 50 g 42% @ Combine.
Rice wine vinegar 5g 4% @ Pour over peeled grapes.
Salt Ig 0.8% ® Place grapes and juice into siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of carbon dioxide forat
least 5 h before service, and refrigerate.
Wasabi (fresh) 8g 6% @ Grate finely, and reserve.
Oyster juice, from above 40 g 33% @ Combine.
Verjuice 30 g 25% ® Blend until smooth.
Sucrose esters (Sucro, 0.7 g 0.58% ® Remove carbonated grapes from siphon, and place
Texturas brand) {!%)* 51/2 pieces at bottom of each bowl.
@ Top each bowl with one shucked oyster.
® Garnish with miso powderand wasabi.
@ Whipfoam until frothy with handheld foaming wand.
@ Dress bowls with oyster-Verjuice foam.
from page 5-200 *{% of total weight of oyster juice and sour grape juice)

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 63

Best Bets for Tartares
Meat Recipe Texture Seasoning Note
beef traditional French steak tartare coarse raw shallot, raw egg yolk, the classic tartare
ketchup, capers, parsley, mustard,
Worcestershire, Tabasco sauce
Syrian kafta nayyeh fine mint, hot mustard, allspice,
raw onion, olive oil
Ethiopian kitfo fine chili powder, niter kibbeh traditionally served with injera or
kocho
Wylie Dufresne's hanger steak coarse Bearnaise ice cream, scallion. hanger steak is tenderized sous vide
tartare pickled Asian pear, amaro (see page 2-244)
lamb Lebanese kibbeh fine bulgurwheat, raw garlic, cinnamon young lamb is best
langoustine Pierre Gagnaire's langoustine fine green mango, thyme nougatine use only extremely fresh
and poppy seed tartare langoustines
mackerel horse mackerel (aji) tartare moderately young ginger, shiso, sansho pepper
with ginger coarse
musk ox Rene Redzepi's musk ox tartare fine paste oxalis, juniper, tarragon musk ox is dry-aged for 48 days
with oxalis and tarragon cream
oyster David Kinch's oyster and beef fine mustard, horseradish, hot sauce
tartare
salmon salmon tartare with citrus coarse makrud lime, sesame oil, chili. do not add citrus until just before
yuzu serving; otherwise, it will cook
surface offish
scallop Alain Passard's scallop and small cubes truffle, artichoke, hazelnut oil. sear quickly over high heat before
truffle tartare lemon, tarragon chopping to develop sweetness
Heston Blumenthal's scallop fine preserved lemon, white chocolate.
and white chocolate tartare caviar
tuna belly Nobu Matsuhisa's toro fine paste soy sauce, caviar
and caviar tartare
tuna loin Hawaiian poke medium ogo, candlenut, sweet onion.
cubes toasted-sesame oil
venison cured venison tartare small cubes blackberry, fennel, coffee.
with coffee smoked salt
from page 3-63

64 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 HANGER STEAK TARTARE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUERESNE Yields650g(fourportions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Champagne vinegar 500 g 125% @ Combine, and reduce until syrupy.
White wine 400 g 100% @ Strain.
Shallots, diced 290 g 72.5% @ Measure 45 g, and reserve.
Tarragon stems five stems
Water 260 g 65% (4) Combine in small pot.
Sugar 140 g 35% © Heat while whisking until sugar has dissolved completely.
Glucose 60 g 15% @ Remove from heat, and cool syrup slightly.
Egg yolks 625 g 155% @ Temper with warm syrup.
® Hand-blend.
Bearnaise reduction, 45 g 11.25% @ Add to egg mixture, to taste.
from above
@ Blend mixture.
Salt 5g 1.25%
@ Freeze in Pacojet containers, or churn in ice-cream maker.
Hanger steak 400 g 100% ® Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 50 °C / 122 °F bath for 3 h.
® Cool quickly in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
Extra-virgin olive oil 6g 1.5% @ Sear one side of steak.

@ Cool completely, and dice finely.

Salt 4g 1% ® Season steak tartare.
Tarragon, minced 3g 0.8% ® Pacotize ice cream, if using Pacojet.
Tabasco sauce 1.5g 0.4% @ Spoon steak onto plates, and garnish with spoonful of ice cream.
Black pepper 0.75 g 0.2%
from page 3-65

^ E E F AND OYSTE R TA RTA RE adapted from DAVID KINCH Yields 680 g (four to eight portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

American Wagyu beef 400 g 100% ©Trim off fat.
bavette or rib eye
@ Dice finely.
Pemaquid oysters 80 g 20% © Shuck, reservingjuices.
® Keep refrigerated.
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 60 g 15% © Combine.
Extra-virgin olive oil 40 g 10% ® Adjust ketchup mixture to taste.
Orleans mustard 18 g 4.5%
Hot sauce (Crystal brand) 8g 2%
Worcestershire sauce 5g 1.25%
Lemon juice 3g 0.75%
Whipping cream 120 g 30% @ Whip to stiff peaks.

© Refrigerate.
Cream cheese lOOg 25% ® Soften with paddle mixeruntil silky.
(Philadelphia brand)
Horseradish root, 40 g 10% ® Fold into cream cheese.
finely grated
® Fold cream cheese mixture carefully into cold whipped cream.
Rice vinegar to taste ® Season whipped horseradish cream carefully to taste; chill.
Lime juice to taste ® Mince raw oysters, and combine with reserved oyster juices.
Salt to taste @ Fold oysters into diced raw beef, and season with ketchup mixture as desired.
© Place spoonful of beef and oyster tartare on each plate, and garnish with spoonful of
horseradish cream.
from page 3-66

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 65

SCALLOP TARTARE INSPIRED BY ALAIN PASSARD Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Mayonnaise (Kewpie orothergood 30 g 15% (i) Whisk to form truffle mayonnaise.
quality brand)
Black truffle concentrate 20 g 10%
see page 57

Black truffle, minced lOg 5%

Lime juice 3g 1.5%
Roasted-hazelnut oil 3g 1.5%
Lime zest Ig 0.5%
Sea scallop (sushi quality), minced 200 g 100% (D Fold into truffle mayonnaise.
Fuji apple, peeled and minced 40 g 20%
Chives, minced 0.75 g 0.4%
Lime juice to taste @ Season scallop mixture generously.
Salt to taste @ Chill.
Brioche, frozen and sliced lOg 5% @ Dust brioche slices with powder.
2 mm/Yu in thick
Freeze-dried scallop powder 8g 4%
see page 58

Clarified unsalted butter 25 g 12.5% @ Panfry brioche until golden.

@ Drain on papertowels.
® Cut into desired shapes.
Chive blossoms as desired ® Spoon scallop tartare into serving bowls.
@ Garnish with brioche and chive blossoms.
from page 3-67

66 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

 SALMON TARTARE CORNETS adapted from thomas keller
Yields 400 g (24 cornets)
INGREDIENT OUANTITY SGAIING PRnrpntiPF

Forthe cornets:
All-purpose flour 65 g 45% (T) Combine and reserve.
Sugar 20 g 13.5%
Salt 4g 2.5%
Unsalted butter, softened 115 g 77% (7) Whisk until completely smooth and texture resembles mayonnaise.
but still cool to touch
Egg whites, cold 90 g 60% (j) Beat egg whites into flour mixture until smooth.

@ Whisk in softened butter by thirds until batter is creamy.

® Place circular stencil, 10 cm / 4 in. in diameter, on silicone mat.
® Spread some batter evenly inside stencil.

@ Lift stencil off sheet, and repeat process to make 24 circles.

Black sesame seeds 20 g 13.5% ® Sprinkle over each batter circle.

® Bake in 205 °C / 400 °F oven until batter is set and rippling, 4-6 min.
@ Transfer sheet with circles to open oven door to keep warm.

@ Flip one circle over, sesame seed side down; place an 11.5 cm / 41/2 in cornet mold (size #35) at
bottom of circle.

@ If you are right-handed, place pointed end of mold to your left and open end to your right.
Tip of mold should touch lower left edge of circle. Reverse if left-handed.
® Fold bottom of circle up and around mold.

® Roll carefully upward and to left to wrap circle tightly around mold. Leave circle wrapped
around its mold.

® Repeat cornet molding process for remaining circles.

® Arrange cornets seam side down and leaning against each other.
® Bake in 205 °C / 400 °F oven until golden brown, another 3-4 min, to set seams.
® Take out of oven, and cool slightly for 30 s. Remove from molds.
® Store in airtight containerfor48 h maximum.
Fortbe salmon tartare:
Salmon fillet, preferably 150 g 100% @ Remove skin and pin bones.
belly
@ Mince finely.
Shallot, finely minced 7g 4.5% @ Add to minced salmon.
Chives, finely minced 5g 3.5% ® Fold in to combine.
Extra-virgin olive oil 2g 1.5% @ Adjust for seasoning, if necessary.
Koshersalt 2g 1.5% ® Cover salmon tartare, and refrigerate for at least 30 min.
Lemon zest 1.6g 1%
White pepper, to taste
freshly ground
Forthe red-onion cream:
Red onion, finely minced 9g 6% @ Rinse onion in strainer under cold water, and dry.
Creme fraiche 115g 77% ® Whisk until soft peaks form.
@ Fold onions in.
Salt to taste ® Season.
White pepper, to taste @ Transfer onion cream to pastry bag.
freshly ground
® Refrigerate for at least 1 h to firm up.
Chive tips, 24 tips @ Pipe onion cream into each cornet.
2’/2 cm / I in long
® Spoon 3 g of salmon tartare over cream.
@ Garnish with single chive tip.
from page 3-68

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 67

TENDER MEATS SOUS VIDE

@ Select an ingredient and target temperature. The table below provides @ Cook sous vide until the core temperature of the meat reaches the target.
final core temperatures for many populartender cuts; our preferences Use a digital probe thermometer, as described on page 2-243.
are highlighted in bold. © Optionally, sear the meat by using whichever method you prefer.
(D Set sous vide bath to 1 °C/1.8 °F above the target temperature selected. For options, see page 2-270.

@ Vacuum seal the meat with any flavorings, fats, or liquids desired. ® Season as desired.

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide

Core temperature for doneness
Rare Medium rare Pink Medium

Ingredient (“O (°F) (“O (°F) (°C) (°F) (“O (°F) Note See page

beef, filet mignon 50 122 53 127 56 133 62 144

beef, flank 54 129 56 133 59 138 62 144 cut thinly against the grain for maximum 114
tenderness, or use kaibi marinade

beef, hanger 51 124 54 129 58 136 60 140

beef loin (rib eye) 54 129 56 133 58 136 60 140 5-5

beef, strip steak 52 126 54 129 58 136 62 144 dry aged is ideal 287

lamb, leg 54 129 57 135 60 140 65 149

lamb loin (rack) 54 129 57 135 59 138 62 144 68

veal loin 52 126 54 129 56 133 60 140

venison loin 50 122 53 127 58 136 60 140 high enzymatic activity can cause mushiness; 69
cookingto a hotter-than-core temperature is
recommended; use the same temperatures
for similar game

pork loin n/a 58 136 60 140 62 144 94

pork tenderloin n/a 56 133 59 138 61 142 69

pork, shoulder blade n/a 58 136 60 140 64 147 see page 3-48 for specific cuts 89

rabbit loin n/a 56 133 59 138 62 144 cook in 72 °C /162 °F bath to core 70
temperatures to prevent mushiness

suckling pig loin n/a 56 133 58 136 60 140

from page 3 -96 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

RACK OF LAMB Yields400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Rack of lamb, eight ribs, 600 g 100% ® Wrap rosemary sprigs around bone to prevent them from being pressed into meat.
trenched to loin
Rosemary sprigs lOg 1.65%

Olive oil lOOg 16,5% @ Vacuum seal rack with oil.

Neutral oil as needed © Cook lamb sous vide in 62 °C/144 °F bath to core temperature of 57 °C/135 °F, about 40 min,
and then rest at room temperature forlO min.
Salt to taste
® Sear lamb, fat side down, until golden. Slice between ribs into individual chops.

© Season with salt.

from page 5-29

68 VOtUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

PORK TENDERLOIN WITH JUNIPER vieidssoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pork tenderloin, tendon 500 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.

and silverskin removed (D Refrigerate forl2 h.
Juniperbrine 200 g 40% @ Drain, and refrigerate for 24 h.
see page 109
Water, cold lOOg 20% ® Disperse gelatin in water, and warm until fully dissolved.

160 Bloom gelatin lOg 2% ® Reserve.

(0.9%)*

Leeks 300 g 60% ® Peel away first layer, and discard.

@ Peel away next four layers, and cut into large sheets.
® Vacuum seal leek sheets with gelatin mixture.
® Steam for 4 min, shock in ice-water bath, and pat dry.

Activa RM 5g 1% (Jo) Arrange sheets on plastic wrap to make single large sheet, overlapping sheets every
1 cm /% in.
@ Dust sheets evenly with Activa.
@ Roll brined pork in leek sheets, twisting ends of plastic wrap tightly to form roll.

@ Vacuum seal.
® Refrigerate for 12 h to ensure leek wrapper adheres to pork.
@ Cook pork tenderloin sous vide in 60 °C / 140 °F bath to core temperature of 59 °C / 138 °F,
about 50 min.
@ Slice to desired thickness, and serve with mushroom jus or red-eye gravy (see pages 37
_or225). _
from page 5-36 *(% of total weight of tenderloin, juniper brine, water, and leeks)

VENISON LOIN ROSSINI ad APTED FROM YANNICK ALLENO Yields 1.1 kg (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Venison rack (first four 600 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
ribs only), bones frenched @ Cook sous vide in 65 °C/149 °F bath to core temperature of 56 °C/133 °F, about 25 min.

Olive oil 45 g 7.5% @ Let rest at room temperature forlO min.

® Reserve.

Duck foie gras, sliced 200 g 33% © Vacuum seal.

2.5 cm / I in thick ® Cook sous vide in 55 °C /131 °F bath to core temperature of 54 °C /129 °F, about 20 min.

@ Hold forfurther20 min at temperature to pasteurize (optional).

Truffle jus 150 g 25% ® Heatjus until just warmed.

see page 212
Game broth or brown lOOg 16.5% @ Simmer pasta shells in game broth and mushroom jus until al dente.
chicken stock
see page 14 or page 6
Semolina pasta shells 50 g 8.5%

Mushroom jus 30 g 5%
see page 37
Ffeavy cream, warmed 25 g 4% @ Fold into pasta.
and whipped
Salt to taste @ Slice venison into individual rib chops.
Summer truffle, peeled, as desired @ Covertop of each loin portion with truffle slices, if using.
thinly sliced and ring cut ® Slice foie gras into sections 1 cm / 3/8 in thick.
into 1.25 cm / Vi in circles
@ Season venison, foie gras, and pasta.
(optional)
® Arrange evenly among plates^andrarnish with truffle jus.

from page 3-98

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 69

 RIB EYE WITH CHERRY MUSTARD MARMALADE AND PORCINI
ADAPTED FROM ALAIN DUCASSE Yields! kg (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef rib eye, bone in. 800 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
5cm/2 in thick (D Cook sous vide in 54 °C/129 °F bath to core
Flaky sea salt is a great way to finish
Unsalted butter 40 g 5% temperature of 53 °C/127 °F, about 1(4 h.
a cooked piece of meat orfish. It
adds crunchy bursts of saltiness. @ Sear surfaces with blowtorch.
The only problem is that the salt Shallots, finely minced 50 g 6% @ Sweat until shallots are tender but not browned.
tends to dissolve into the natural
Fennel, finely minced 25 g 3%
juices by the time the dish reaches
Neutral oil 12.5 g 1.5%
the table. Nerve This came up with
a solution: toss the salt crystals with Pickled cherry brine !50g 19% @ Add to shallot mixture.
see page 180
oil or fat. A thin layer of oil then ® Reduce to 100 gto form cherry marmalade.
separates the flakes from the cook- Red wine vinegar 50 g 6%
ing juices and prevents the salt from Red wine (Pinot Noir) 40 g 5%
dissolving.
Quatre epices 0.5 g 0.06%
see page 48

Black peppercorns, 0.4 g 0.05%

crushed
Juniper berries, finely 0.4 g 0.05%
ground
Coriander seeds, finely 0.15 g 0.02%
ground
Pickled cherries, finely 100 g 12.5% @ Whisk into marmalade.
minced
see page 180

Grain mustard 40 g 5%
Morello cherry puree 35 g 4.5%
Pressure-cooked mustard 8g 1%
seeds
see page 151

Porcini (fresh) lOOg 12.5% ® Slice porcini very thinly, and quickly saute until golden
Neutral oil as needed and cooked through.

Salt to taste @ Slice meat to desired thickness.

® Season meat, marmalade, and mushrooms, and
arrange on plates.
from page 3-97

SOUS VIDE RABBIT LOIN Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Rabbit loins, trimmed 450 g 100% ® Dust rabbit loins evenly with Activa.
and silver skin removed
@ Position opposing loins, tapered sides together, to
Activa RM or CS lOg 2.2% form even cylinders 3 cm/1(4 in. in diameter.
@ Wrap each pair of loins tightly in plastic wrap, and
vacuum seal.

® Refrigerate for at least 6 h to allow enzyme to bind

loins.
Extra virgin olive oil 50 g 11% ® Vacuum seal loins with oil.
® Cook sous vide in 57 °C /135 °F bath to core
temperature of 56 °C/133 °F, about 25 min.
Freeze-dried piquillo lOg 2.2% @ Dust rabbit loin with piquillo pepper powder, and
pepper powder then slice on bias, 1 cm/Ys in thick.
see page 188
® Season.
Salt to taste
from page 5-242

70 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

TENDER POULTRY SOUS VIDE

® Select an ingredient and target temperature. The table below provides © Pasteurize (optional). Hold at cooking temperature forthe amount of
final core temperatures for many kinds of poultry, both red (top table) and time indicated in the table to achieve full pasteurization.
white (bottom table), We prefer the temperatures in bold. © Optionally, searthe meat. See page 2-270 forsearing methods.
@ Set sous vide bath to 1 °C/1.8 °F above the target core temperature. @ Season as desired.
@ Vacuum seal the poultry with any flavorings, fats, or liquids.

@ Cook sous vide until the core temperature of the meat reaches the target.
Use a digital probe thermometer, as described on pages 2-202 and 2-243.

"Time to pasteurize" is the amount of time to hold afterthe core reaches the
specified temperature, if the bath is 1 °C /T8 °F above core temperature.

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide

Core temperature for doneness
Rare Hold to pasteurize Medium rare Hold to pasteurize Pink Hold to pasteurize
Ingredient (°C) (°F) (h) (°C) (°F) (h) (°C) (°F) (min) See page
duck breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 5-121
goose breast 50 122 n/a 52 126 5 h 15 min 55 131 40
grouse breast 50 122 n/a 52 126 5 h 15 min 58 136 30
ostrich fillet 50 122 n/a 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30
pigeon breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 5-125
from page 3-99 {temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

Best Bets for Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide

Core temperature for doneness
Medium rare Hold to Hold to Hold to
(slightly pink) pasteurize Medium pasteurize Medium well pasteurize
Ingredient (°C) (°F) (min) (°C) (°F) (min) (°C) (°F) (min) Note See page
chicken breast 58 136 30 61 142 13 65 149 2 5-113
chicken "oyster" 61 142 15 65 149 2 68 154 fi
guinea hen breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 best tenderized with a 5-135
pheasant breast 54 133 35 56 129 2h17min 58 136 30 yogurt- or enzyme-
enriched marinade
quail breast 50 122 12 h 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 73
turkey breast 54 129 2 h 17 min 56 133 35 58 136 30 brine 101
from page 3-99 {temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 71

POULET AU FEU D'ENFER ADAPTED FROM FERNAND POINT Yields 1.1 kg (four to eight portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken breasts, skin on 500 g 100% @ Season chicken pieces.

Chicken thighs, bone in 500 g 100% (D Vacuum seal individually.

and skin on @ Cook breasts sous vide in 59 °C /138 °F bath to core temperature of 58 °C /136 °F, about
Salt to taste 35 min.
@ Hold foradditional 30 min to pasteurize (optional).
@ Cook thighs sous vide in 65 "C /149 °F bath for O/z h.

Chicken wings, whole, 250 g 50% ® Saute until golden, about 12 min.
finely chopped
Shallots, thinly sliced 100 g 20%

Unsalted butter 30 g 6%

Garlic, thinly sliced 20 g 4%

Brown chicken stock 200 g 40% @ Deglaze wings.

see page 6
® Reduce liquid by two-thirds until syrupy, aboutlO min.
white wine (dry) 90g 18%
@ Strain sauce.
Red wine vinegar 80 g 16%

Heavy cream 50 g 10%

Black pepper, coarsely to taste ® Season vinegar sauce.

ground
Salt to taste
Clarified unsalted butter as needed @ Heat thin film of butter over high heat in two separate pans.

Chanterelles, washed 200 g 40% @ Saute chanterelles until just cooked through, and season with salt.
thoroughly ® Sear cooked chicken pieces, skin side down only, until skin is just crisped, about 2 min.

@ Slice, and divide evenly among plates.

Chives, finely minced 30 g 6% @ Garnish with vinegar sauce, chanterelles, and chives.
(orchive blossoms)
from page 3100

PIGEON WITH SHELLFISH BUTTER ADAPTED FROM ALAIN CHAPEL Yields550g(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pigeon breast roulade 240 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
see page 3-254 (two roulades) @ Cook sous vide in 55 °C /131 °F bath to core temperature of 54 °C /129 °F, about 25 min.
Shellfish butter 80 g 33% @ Hold foradditional 2y2 h to pasteurize (optional).
see page 29
@ Remove roulades from bag, and let rest for 5 min.
© Reserve infused shellfish butter in warm place.

Spot prawn tails, peeled 180 g 75% © Vacuum seal tails.

(12 tails, @ Cook sous vide in 50 °C /122 °F bath to core temperature of 49 °C /120 °F, about 12 min.
15 g each)
Oyster mushrooms, small 80 g 33% ® Saute mushrooms until just cooked through.

Unsalted butter 12 g 5%

Salt to taste © Season mushrooms, pigeon, and prawns.

Crystallized ginger, small lOg 4% ® Slice each roulade into six pieces, discard ends, and divide among four plates.
dice @ Garnish evenly with prawn tails, shellfish butter, mushrooms, and candied ginger.
from page 3T00

72 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 QUAIL WITH APPLE-VINEGAR EMULSION AND WATER CHESTNUTS
ADAPTED FROM CHARLIE TROTTER

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Quail, whole, semi¬ 400 g 100% ® Pack cure evenly onto quails.
boneless (four whole)
@ Vacuum seal together.
Confit cure mix 60 g 15%
@ Refrigerate for 2 h.
see page 106
@ Rinse off cure, and vacuum seal quails individually.

d) Cook sous vide in 55 °C /131 °F bath to core temperature of 54 °C /129 °F, about 25 min.
© Hold at 54 °C/129 °F for another 2 h 17 min to pasteurize (optional).
@ Remove from bags, and allow to rest for 15 min.
Brown chicken stock 200 g 50% ® Reduce over high heat to 100 g, and strain.
see page 6
Apple cider (fresh) 125 g 31%
Apple cider vinegar 50 g 12.5%
Shallots, thinly sliced 50 g 12.5%
Unsalted butter 30 g 7.5% @ Blend into reduction until fully emulsified.
Salt to taste @ Season.
Chervil 5g 1.25% ® Whisk into apple-vinegar emulsion, and reserve warm.
Unsalted butter, cubed 40 g 10% @ Saute water chestnuts and pickled apples in butter until just warmed through, about 2 min, to
Water chestnuts, peeled, 40 g 10% make topping.
finely diced, and blanched
in boiling waterfor2 min
Sweet pickled apples, 30 g 7.5%
brunoise
see page 3-348

Salt to taste @ Season topping.

Tarragon, thinly sliced 2g 0.5% @ Fold into pickled apple and water chestnut topping, and reserve.
Crisp Coat UC or potato lOOg 25% ® Dry blend powders.
starch
® Dredge cooked quails, and shake off excess coating.
(National Starch brand)
Quatre epices 20 g 5%
see page 48
Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry quails in 230 °C / 450 °F oil for 35 s.
Quatre epices as needed @ Place in center of plates.
see page 48
® Garnish with apple and water chestnut topping, and apple-vinegar emulsion.
@ Dust with additional quatre epices, if desired.
from page 3-101

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 73

FISH AND SHELLFISH SOUS VIDE

® Select an ingredient and target temperature. The table below provides ® Optionally, sear the food by using whichever method you prefer.
final core temperatures for many kinds offish. We prefer the temperatures See page 2-270 for searing options.
in bold. © Season as desired.
@ Vacuum seal the fish or shellfish with any flavorings, fats, or liquids.

@ Cook sous vide until the core temperature of the food reaches the target.
Use a digital probe thermometer, as described on page 2-243.

The times and temperatures given for "barely cooked" and "tender," and
some ofthose for "firm," will not pasteurize the fish. See page 1-190 for more
food safety information.

Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide

Core temperature for doneness
Barely
cooked Tender Firm Flaky
Ingredient (°C) (°F) (°C) (“F) (°C) (°F) (■’C) (°F) Note See page

black cod 40 104 45 113 48 118 52 126 76

cod* 38 100 41 106 45 113 49 120 use same temperatures for cooking ling cod next

eel n/a n/a 54 129 59 138

escolar 38 100 41 106 46 115 50 122 next

hake* n/a 44 111 50 122 54 129

halibut 40 104 42 108 45 113 50 122 112

halibut cheek n/a 45 113 48 118 52 126 use same temperatures for monkfish and cod cheeks 165

hamachi 34 93 38 100 40 104 46 115 5-147

John Dory n/a 45 113 48 118 50 122

mackerel 40 104 42 108 46 115 48 118 if cooking to less than 46 °C/115 °F, brine before cooking 284

monkfish* 42 108 45 113 48 118 50 122 77

rockfish n/a 44 111 48 118 52 126

salmon* 38 100 41 106 43 109 46 115 78

sardine 34 93 38 100 42 108 46 115

sea bass n/a 45 113 48 118 50 122 5-175

skate n/a 48 118 52 126 54 129 78

snapper n/a 48 118 50 122 52 126 78

sole n/a 42 108 45 113 50 122 319

sturgeon* n/a 46 115 50 122 54 129

trout 37 99 40 104 46 115 48 118 77

tuna loin* 38 100 42 108 45 113 48 118 if cooking to 54 °C /129 °F, brine in 4% saline solution,
54 129 refrigerated, for 3 h before cooking
tuna belly* 38 100 43 109 48 118 50 122

turbot n/a 44 111 49 120 52 126 76

from page 3-102

*(Many stocks of these species are considered overharvested and are protected in several parts of the world. We recommend always
checking the status offish before purchasing. For updates and more details, see the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch web site
at www.seafoodwatch.org. Temperatures in bold are those that we prefer.)

74 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

LING COD WITH BERGAMOT-INFUSED MILK Yields 700 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM MARTIN BERASATECUl

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Verjuice (store-bought) 50 g 12.5% @ Vacuum seal together.
Golden raisins 30 g 7.5% @ Cook sous vide in 80 °C/176 °F bath for 20 min.
@ Cool completely.
@ Drain plumped raisins, and reserve for garnish.
Milk 525 g 130% @ Combine.
Heavy cream 25 g 6.25% @ Bring to boil, and then remove from heat.
Bergamotzest, thinly sliced 60 g 15% @ Add to hot milk.
@ Steep, covered, forlO min, and then strain.
Salt to taste @ Season infused milk, and reserve.
Ling cod fillet, skin on 400 g 100% ® Divide evenly into four 100 g portions.
Extra-virgin olive oil 80 g 20% ® Vacuum seal individually, with 20 g of oil each.
® Cook sous vide in 41 °C / 106 °F bath to core temperature of 40 °C / 104 °F, about 25 min.
Salt to taste ® Season fish.
@ Arrange one portion in each of four bowls.

® Garnish with plumped raisins and infused milk.

from page 3T03

If fresh bergamot is unavailable, use bergamot essential oil, page 2-310.

ESCOLAR WITH RED WINE BUTTER adapted from eric RIPERT YieldsSOOg(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yukon Cold potatoes, peeled 150 g 50% @ Deep-fry in 150 °C / 300 °F oil until crisp and golden brown.
and sliced 1 mm 7/32 in thick (one potato) @ Drain on papertowels.
Neutral oil as needed @ Season chips.
Salt to taste @ Reserve.

Red wine (dry) 100 g 33% ® Combine.

Red wine vinegar 45 g 15% ® Reduce to 30 g.

Shallot, minced lOg 3.3%

Tarragon 2g 0.7%

Black peppercorns Ig 0.3%

Thyme 0.5 g 0.17%

Red wine reduction, 30 g 10% ©Blend into reduction until fully emulsified.
from above
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.5 g 0.17%
CP Kelco brand) (17%)*
Unsalted butter 40 g 13.3% ® Blend into reduction.

Brown butter 30 g 10% ® Strain red wine butterthrough fine sieve into small saucepan.
see page 4-213

Salt to taste @ Season red wine butter.

@ Reserve, keeping warm.

Escolarfillet 300 g 100% @ Cut fillet into four 75 g portions.

Extra-virgin olive oil 80 g 27% @ Vacuum seal individually with 20 g of olive oil each.
@ Cook sous vide in 39 °C/ 102°F bath to core temperature of 38 °C/ 100 °F, about
20 min.

Salt to taste ® Season fillets.

@ Slice, and arrange in center of serving plates.

Shallot, minced 3g 1% @ Combine.

Tarragon leaves, thinly sliced Ig 0.3% @ Garnish center offish slices.

Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste ® Drizzle warm red wine butter around plates.

Sea beans, cut into 4-5 beans @ Top fish slices with potato crisps and sea beans.
5 cm/2 in lengths
from page 3-104 *(% of total weight of red wine reduction)

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 75

 TURBOT WITH ONION AND MARROW BROTH Yields 800 g(four portions)

ADAPTED FROM DAVID KINCH

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE__

White onions, peeled and 1.5 kg 250% (T) Place in bottom of deep rectangular baking pan, and
halved widthwise cover with foil.
(D Bake in 230 °C/450 °F oven fori h.

@ Lower oven temperature to 90 °C / 200 °F, and bake

for 8 h until most of the juice has rendered and
collected in bottom of pan.
@ Pass roasted onion juice through fine sieve.

® Measure 250 g.
David Kinch recommends aging
® Reserve cold.
very fresh turbot or sole for three
Veal marrow bones, cut 1.5 kg 250% @ Bake in 175 °C/350 “Foven for30 min to renderfat, or
to four days to develop flavor and
make the flesh more tender. Ask into 7.5 cm / 3 in lengths render another way (see page 3145).

yourfishmonger when the fish ® Strain through fine sieve, and measure 50 g of
was caught to make the proper rendered marrowfat.
adjustment. 600 g 100% @ Cut into four equal portions.
Turbot, on bone
Unsalted butter 40 g 6.5% @ Vacuum seal individually with 10 g of butter each.
@ Cook sous vide in 50 °C / 122 °F bath to core
temperature of 49 °C/ 120 °F, about 25 min.

Roasted onion juice, from 250 g 42% @ Blend gums into onion jus until fully dispersed.
above ® Bring to simmer.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.2 g 0.03%
(EMC BioPolymer brand) (0.08%)*

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.2 g 0.03%

CP Kelco brand) (0.08%)*

Rendered veal marrow fat, 50 g 8.5% @ Blend into warm onion jus until emulsified.
from above ® Reserve warm.

Amaranth leaves lOOg 17% ® Saute leaves until just wilted.

Olive oil lOg 1.5%

Salt to taste ® Season jus, amaranth leaves, and turbot.

@ Arrange equally in fourshallow bowls.

from page 3105 *(% of total weight of onion jus)

BLACK COD Yieids500g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE_

Black cod fillet 500 g 100% @ Cut fillet into four equal portions.

Salt 7g 1.4% @ Combine with salt and sugar.

Sugar 3g 0.6% @ Vacuum seal portions individually, and refrigerate

fori h to cure.
@ Remove cured fish from bags.
® Rinse and pat dry.

Condrieu wine (optional) as needed ® To cook fish with Cirardet method, place fish portions in shallow pan and pour wine around
to submerge fish, leaving its skin exposed.
@ Place fish under hot broilerand cook until wine reaches 55 °C/131 °F, and skin has darkened
and crisped, 6-10 min.
® Remove pan from under broiler and wait for core temperature offish to reach 52 °C /125 °F,
about 5 min.
® Remove fish from pan and rest for 5 min at room temp.
® Alternatively, vacuum seal fish and cook sous vide in 53 °C/ 127 °F bath to core temperature
of52°C/ 125 °F,about25 min.

Condrieu butter 150 g 30% @ Serve with warm butter.

see page 25

from page 5-173

76 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAt

 STEELHEAD TROUT CONFIT WITH FENNEL SALAD Yields 560 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM TETSUYA WAKUDA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Steelhead trout fillet 400 g 100% ® Remove skin.

(D Divide fillet into fourlOOg portions, and reserve.

Garlic-infused olive oil lOOg 25% @ Whisk together.
see page 28
® Vacuum seal each fish portion individually with 15 g of oil.
Thyme essential oil 0.1 g 0.025%
® Reserve remaining 40 g of garlic oil for garnish.
Rosemary essential oil 0.05 g 0.013%
® Refrigerate portions for 2 h to marinate.

@ Cook sous vide in 43 °C /109 °F bath to core temperature of 42 °C /108 °F, about 25 min.

Fennel bulb 80 g 20% ® Shave very thin on mandoline.

Black pepper, finely to taste @ Season fennel shavings.
crushed
Eemon juice to taste
Lemon-scented olive oil to taste
see page 28

Salt to taste
Kombu chips, finely 8g 2% @ Place portion offish on each plate.
chopped (store-bought)
® Dress each portion with fennel salad and kombu chips.
Flaky salt to taste
® Season with flaky salt, and drizzle garlic oil around plates.
Steelhead trout caviar 30 g 7.5% ® Garnish fish evenly, and serve.
from page3T06

SOUS VIDE MONKFISH PAVE Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Salt 28 g 7% @ Combine to make cure.
Eemon zest, grated 0.4 g 0.1%
Monkfish fillet 400 g 100% @ Dust cure evenly overall surfaces of fillet.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 45 min.
® Rinse fillet, and pat dry.
Extra virgin olive oil as needed ® Cut cured monkfish into foursquares of 100 geach.
® Brush top surface of each square with olive oil.
Baby zucchini, sliced 200 g 50% @ Lay zucchini slices neatly and in overlapping fashion, on top surface of each square to
1 mm /Me in thick resemble fish scales.

® Vacuum seal each square individually with 20 g of olive oil.

Extra virgin olive oil 80 g 20%
@ Cook monkfish sous vide in 48 °C /119 °F bath to core temperature of 47 °C /117 °F, about
25 min.
Spice mix emulsion lOOg 25% @ Pourwarm emulsion around fish.
see page 309

from page 5155

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 77

sous VIDE SNAPPER Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sambal badjak 70 g 28% @ Combine.
(store-bought)
@ Pass through fine sieve, and reserve.
Kejap manis (store-bought) 15 g 6%
Shaoxing wine lOg 4%
Snapper, filleted 250 g 100% @ Cut snapper into four 60 g portions.
and skinned
@ Brush sieved mixture in layerl mm /Xe in thick, onto snapper portions.
Salt to taste @ Season.

© Cook snapper portions sous vide in 52 °C /125 °F bath to core temperature of 51 °C /123 °F,
about20 min.
Malaysian aromatic oil 25 g 10% @ Garnish.
see page 30

Crispy snapper skin four pieces

see page 5-168

from page 5-169

SOUS VIDE SALMON Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 150 g 37.5% ® Whisk together until sugar is fully dissolved to make brine.
Salt 5.5 g 1.35%
Sugar 5g 1.25%
Salmon fillet 400 g 100% ® Cut fillet into four 100 g portions.
(preferably wild king) @ Soak in brine for24 h.
® Drain.
Extra virgin olive oil 120 g 30% ® Vacuum seal each salmon portion with 30 g of oil.
® Refrigerate for 2 h for brine to permeate salmon.
@ Cook salmon sous videin 41 °C/106‘’F bath to core temperature of 40 °C /104 °F, about
25 min.
Root vegetable jus, 140 g 35% ® Serve with warm jus.
warmed
see page 36

from page 5-162

SKATE PAVE WITH BREAD CRUST Yields 480 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Skate wings 600 g 100% ® Dust evenly with Activa, ensuring grain of ail wings faces same direction.
(four 125 g wings) @ Stack wings, alternating thick and thin ends, and vacuum seal.
Activa RM as needed @ Refrigerate for at least 6 h for proteins to bond.
® Remove from bag, and cut into 100 g squares.
® Vacuum seal individually, and refrigerate.
White bread, crustless 80 g 13% ® Cut bread slices into squares slightly larger than skate squares, and reserve.
and cut into fourslices,
3 mm/Ye in thick
Clarified unsalted butter as needed @ Cook skate sous vide in 52 °C /126 °F bath to core temperature of 51 ‘’C/124 °F, about 25 min.
see page 4-213
® Remove skate portions from bags, pat dry on paper towels, and place slice of bread on each.
Salt to taste
@ Sear, bread sides down, in clarified butter until bread is crisp and golden.
@ Season.
from page 5-159

78 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

VARIATION: Cooking Shellfish Sous Vide

© Select an ingredient and target temperature from the table below. shucking. Use a clean bag when vacuum sealing the shellfish again for
® Prep as indicated, and then vacuum seal as in step 2 on page 74. Blanch cooking.
cockles, clams, mussels, and razor clams by vacuum sealing them while @ Follow steps 3-5 on page 74.
in the shell and immersing the bag in boiling water for 2 min, and then

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide

Core temperature for doneness

Barely cooked Tender Firm

Ingredient Prep (°C) (“F) (min) (°C) (“F) (min) (°C) (°F) (min) Note See page

cockles or blanched and shucked* 48 118 10 56 133 8 65 149 5 cook in its own juice 36,5-229
clams

langoustine shelled 48 118 15 56 133 12 70 158 6 sear quickly after

cooking

lobster claws shelled 54 129 to core 60 140 to core 65 149 to core best cooked in butter

lobstertails shelled 46 115 to core 54 129 to core 59 138 to core best cooked in butter next, 81

50 122 to core

mussels blanched and shucked* 62 144 10 65 149 10 68 154 7 cook in its own juice below

oysters shucked 45 113 10 48 118 10 52 126 7 cook in its own juice 81

razor clams blanched and shucked* 45 113 10 60 140 10 65 149 5 siphon only 85,171

scallops whole 42 108 to core 50 122 to core 54 129 to core

shrimp peeled 48 118 to core 60 140 7 80 176 4 next, 81

(prawns) 54 129 to core

from page 3403 *{see note on page 74) (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

SOUS VIDE MUSSELS Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Live mussels, rinsed 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal.

and beards removed @ Cook in boiling water or steam for3 min.
@ Chill in ice-water bath.
@ Shuck, reserving mussels and juice.
© Strain juice, and reserve.
Shallots, thinly sliced 70 g 28% ® Combine mussels with reserved juice and remaining ingredients.
Fennel, thinly sliced 50 g 20% @ Vacuum seal.
White wine (dry) 50 g 20% ® Cook mussels sous vide in 65 °C /149 °F bath forl2 min.
Pastis(orOuzo) 5g 2% @ Serve warm with toasted garlic bread.
Preserved lemon zest, 2g 1%
minced
see page 174

Bay leaf 0.5 g 0.2%

from page 5454

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 79

19TH-CENTURY-STYLE LOBSTER WITH SHERRY AND COCOA Yields 450 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM OLIVIER ROELLINCER

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lobster shells and 50 g 17% © Saute together until golden, about 7 min.
trimmings
Shallot, minced 50 g 17%
Neutral oil 25 g 8.5%
Shellfish stock 150 g 50% @ Deglaze pan with shells.
see page 6
@ Reduce stock mixture to 90 g, and remove from heat.
Amontillado sherry 75 g 25%
Chervil tips Ig 0.3% ® Whisk into stock reduction.
Coriander seeds, toasted 0.8 g 0.25% © Cover, and steep forlO min.
Annatto powder 0.5 g 0.15% ® Strain.
Tarragon leaves 0.3 g 0.1%
Vanilla seeds and pulp 0.2 g 0.05%
Unsweetened cocoa 0.1 g 0.03%
powder
Unsalted butter, cubed 20 g 6.7% @ Warm infused reduction, and blend butter in until fully emulsified.
Lime juice to taste ® Season sauce, and reserve warm.
Lime zest to taste
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
Lobstertails, shelled 300 g 100% @ Vacuum seal individually with 20 g of butter each.
(four 75 g tails)
® Cook sous vide in 51 °C/ 124 "F bath to core temperature of 50 °C/ 122 °F, about 20 min.
Unsalted butter 80 g 27%
Salt to taste ® Season.
Green mango, brunoise 80 g 27% @ Garnish with mango and sauce.
from page 5454

SHRIMP COCKTAIL inspiiLED BY GRANT ACHATZ Yields280g(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Raspberry gazpacho 300 g 100% © Disperse gelatin into 75 g of gazpacho.
see page 33
@ Bring to boil to fully hydrate, and whisk into remainder of gazpacho base.
160 Bloom gelatin 6g 2%
© Cast onto nonstick baking sheet, 2 mm/ Vie in thick.

@ Freeze completely, and cut into 3.75 cm / V/2 in rectangles. Reserve frozen until use.
Spot prawn tails, peeled 200 g 67% ® Vacuum seal together, and cook in 60 °C/ 140 °F bath for7 min.
(about 8) ® Cool completely and remove from bag.
Extra-virgin olive oil 30 g 10% @ Reserve refrigerated until use.
Garlic clove, crushed 3g 1%
Tarragon sprigs 2g 0.7%
Celery, peeled, brunoise 6g 2% ® Align two prawns down center of each plate.
Piquillo pepper, brunoise 6g 2% ® Season with salt, and garnish with celery, piquillo, olives, and horseradish as desired.
Green olives, thinly sliced 6g 2% @ Lay frozen sheet over prawns and garnish, and allow to thaw and drape over other
Horseradish, finely grated to taste components of dish, about 5 min, before serving.

Salt to taste
from page 3407

80 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

OYSTER ESCABECHE Yields 12 pieces

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Virginica oysters, 12 oysters (T) Shuck and clean oysters well.
orsimilar
@ Vacuum seal oysters, and then poach sous vide in
45 “C /113 °F bath forlO min.
@ Cool in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
Extra virgin olive oil 45 g 100% @ Combine to make escabeche.
Limejuice 24 g 53% @ Marinate oysters in escabeche, refrigerated, for
Sweet onions, finely 12g 27% 45 min.
minced
WEiite wine vinegar 6g 13%
Bird's eye chili, thinly 0.8 g 1.8%
sliced
Bay leaf, julienne 0.2 g 0.4%
Salt to taste
from page 5-206

STEAMED LIVE SPOT PRAWN Yields 12 prawns

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Live spot prawns 12 prawns ® Steam at 90 °C/195 °F with 100% relative humidity
for3 min. Alternatively, vacuum seal in single even
layer, and cook sous vide in 45 °C /114 °F bath for
20 min.
@ Shock in ice-water bath.
@ Peel and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-183

POACHED LOBSTER TAIL Yields 240 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lobster tails 240 g (four tails) 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
Carotene butter or lOOg 42% @ Cook sous vide in 52 °C/125 °F bath to core
unsalted butter temperature of 51 °C/123 °F, about 10 min.
see page 40 @ Rest cooked lobster for 2 min, and then sear each side
for 10 s to tighten flesh.
@ Cut each tail into three equal medallions, and season.

Salt to taste ® Season medallions, and serve with emulsion.

Coconut-lobster, lOOg 42%
emulsion, warmed
see page 319
from page 5-187

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 81

TOUGH MEATS, POULTRY, AND SHELLFISH

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry

Pressure-cook
Cook sous vide

Tenderand juicy Flaky (gauge)

Ingredient (‘’0 (°F) (h) ('■o (°F) (h) (min) Note See page

chicken leg and thigh 64 147 V/2 68 154 3 15 119,5-113

62 144 15

chicken wing 62 144 12 72 162 8

duck leg 60 140 48 62 144 18 35 best cured before cooking below,

62 144 12 68 154 8 105

duck tongue 88 190 5 n/a 25 make sure to debone while still hot 5-81

guinea hen leg 60 140 4 n/a best marinated in yogurt or other next
tenderizing solution before cooking

pigeon leg 65 149 3 68 154 7 cure with confit mix 2 h before cooking 5-125, 72

quail leg 60 140 12 68 154 3

turkey leg 62 144 8 65 149 2 inject with 10% by weight of 7% brine 3-174

turkey wing 58 136 12 62 144 18 brine before cooking 204,103

from page 3-108 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

SOUS VIDE DUCK CONFIT PAVE Yields 850 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Salt 200 g 24.5% ® Combine.
Allspice berries lOg 1.2% @ Grind coarsely to form rub.
Thyme 8g 1%
Garlic, thinly sliced 5g 0.6%
Staranise 1,9 g 0.23%
Rosemary Ig 0.12%
Bay leaves 0.9 g 0.11%
Black pepper 0.8 g 0.1%
Coriander seeds 0,8 g 0.1%
Orange zest, grated 0.1 g 0.01%
Duck legs, boneless 825 g 100% @ Coat duck legs with rub.
@ Cure in refrigerator for 6 h.
® Rinse legs, and pat dry on papertowel-lined tray.
Activa RM 8g 1% ® Dust meat side of cured duck legs with Activa.
@ Pack together, with skin sides facing out, in mold, 10 cm by 20 cm / 4 in by 8 in, and 5 cm / 2 in
deep.
® Vacuum seal.
@ Cook sous vide in 60 °C/140 "F bath for 48 h.
@ Panfry duck confit (or use griddle), skin sides only, until golden and crisp.
® Carve into slices 1.5 cm / in thick.
from page5-82 *(% of total weight of cured duck legs)

82 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

sous VIDE GUINEA HEN Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROGEDURE

Live culture Greek-style 50 g 33% @ Combine.
strained yogurt
Garlic, thinly sliced 25 g 16.5%
Guinea hen breasts, 150 g 100% @ Vacuum seal 25 g of yogurt mixture with breasts.
boneless and skinless @ Vacuum seal remaining 25 g of yogurt mixture with thighs.
Guinea hen thighs, 150 g 100% ® Marinate breasts and thighs, refrigerated, for 5 h.
boneless and skinless
© Cook thighs sous vide in 62 °C/144 °F bath for5 h.
® Cook breasts sous vide in 59 °C /138 °F bath to core temperature of 58 °C /136 "F,
about 30 min. Hold breasts at temperature for 30 min to ensure proper pasteurization.
@ Slice guinea hen into pieces 1 cm /% in thick.
Tagine base, warmed lOOg 67% © Serve with guinea hen.
see page 39
from page 5137

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Shellfish

Pressure-cook
Cook sous vide

Barely cooked Eirm Tender braised (gauge)

Ingredient (°C) (“F) (min) (°c) (°F) (min) (“C) (-F) (h) (min) Note See page
abalone 45 113 15 88 190 8h 100 212 12 35 next

octopus n/a 80 176 3h 85 185 4 25 freezing and thawing before 85

cooking can increase
tenderness
geoduck 50 122 30 65 149 7 88 190 V/2 15 the siphon is quite firm; the 314
belly meat is far more tender
snail n/a 65 149 15 68 154 5 20 5-239

squid and 50 122 10 65 149 5 65 149 4 30 apply same temperatures for next
cuttlefish cooking sea cucumbers
from page 3108 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

The times and temperatures given for "barely

cooked" will not pasteurize the food; other time-
temperature combinations indicated will. See page
1-190 for more food safety information.

SOUS VIDE BRAISED SNAILS Yieids550g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White chicken stock 600 g 150% ® Vacuum seal together.

see page 11
@ Cook sous vide in 68 °C /154 °F bath for 5 h.
Burgundy snails 400 g 100%
© Drain, and reserve juices.
(canned), cleaned
® Pick out snail meat, and discard vegetables and aromatics.
Carrots, peeled and thinly 200 g 50%
© Vacuum seal snails with reserved juices, and refrigerate until use.
sliced
® To serve, reheat snails in 58 °C /136 °F bath for about 20 min.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 180 g 45%

Salt 15 g 3.75%

Thyme 1.5g 0.4%

Bay leaf 0.4 g 0.1%

Montpellier butter 150 g 37.5% @ Melt in pot over low heat and stir in snails.
(optional)
see page 298
from page 5-243

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 83

SQUID SICILIAN LIFEGUARD-STYLE inspired by mario batali Yields 550 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEINC PROCEDURE

Garlic, thinly sliced lOg 5% © Combine to make cure.
Salt 4g 2%
Lemon zest 3g 1.5%
Squid tubes, cut vertically 200 g 100% @ Spread cure over surface of squid sheets.
to make sheets and surface membranes peeled
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 15 min.
@ Brush off cure, and cut sheets into thin strips.
Extra-virgin olive oil lOg 5% ® Vacuum seal strips with oil, and reserve.
Tomato confit, pureed 75 g 37.5% ® Combine, and heat until just warmed through.
see page 179
@ Reserve tomato confit mixture.
Israeli couscous, boiled in 2% brine 60 g 30%
® Cook squid strips sous vide in 65 °C/149 °F bath for 4 min.
until al dente, and then cooled
Pine nuts, toasted 18g 9%
Dry currants 15 g 7.5%
Caper berries, thinly sliced lOg 5%
Tomato water 150g 75% @ Season tomato water generously.
see page 40

Red wine vinegar to taste

Salt to taste
Scallions, whites only, fine julienne 30 g 15% @ Spoon reserved warm tomato confit mixture into bottom of bowls.
Chili oil 20 g 10% @ Top with squid strips, and garnish with scallions and chili oil.
see page 29
@ Pour seasoned tomato water around each portion.
from page 3-113

ABALONE AND FOIE GRAS SHABU-SHABU WITH YUBA AND ENOKI Yields 900 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Abalone 120 g 100% @ Steam at 100 °C/212 °Fforl2 h. Alternatively, vacuum seal and cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F
bath for 16 h.
@ Reserve.
Raw foie gras 120 g 100% @ Cut into slices 3 mm / in thick.
@ Refrigerate.
Soy yuba 120 g 100% ® Measure and reserve.
see page 249
Enoki mushroom 60 g 50% ® Cut from stem into individual mushrooms.
CO
O

Pea vines
00

66.6% @ Select tender leaves and tips, and refrigerate.

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300 g 250% ® Sweat onions until very tender, about 30 min.
Rendered foie gras fat 70 g 58%
Hon dashi 350 g 292% ® Deglaze onions, and simmerforSO min to make shabu shabu broth.
see page 15
® Strain.

® Centrifuge at 27,500^ for 1 h.

@ Cool and refrigerate.
Soy sauce 120 g 100% @ Combine to make tosazu (dipping sauce).
Mirin 50 g 41.7% @ Refrigerate.
Agave syrup 24 g 20%
EO
O

Rice vinegar 17%

00

Foie gras fat or unsalted 80 g 66.7% ® Bring broth to boil, and maintain at simmer in shabu shabu pot over portable gas or electric
butter stove.

® Warm tosazu (dipping sauce), and blend in foie gras fat to form loose emulsion.

® Serve emulsion on side, and invite guests to dip raw ingredients into warm broth for desired
doneness and then briefly into tosazu.

® Broth is shared among diners after raw ingredients have been eaten.
from page 5-203

84 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

RAZOR CLAM WITH SAUCE VERTE INSPIRED BY ALICE WATERS Yields 550 g (eight portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Ramp bulbs lOOg 20% @ Vacuum seal.
(or scallion whites) (D Cook in boiling water until tender, about 5 min.
(D Cool in sous vide bag placed in ice-water bath.
@ Drain and reserve.
Ramp greens 150 g 30% © Blanch greens individually in boiling water until tender.
(or scallion greens) ® Shock in ice water.
Chives 5g 1% @ Pat dry, and reserve.
Chervil 0.8%
Basil 3.5 g 0.7%
Mint 2.2 g 0.4%
Caper berries 28 g 5.5% ® Puree with bulbs and blanched greens until smooth, to make sauce verte.
Olive oil 25 g 5%
Dijon mustard lOg 2%
White wine vinegar lOg 2%
Salt to taste ® Season sauce verte, and reserve in refrigerator.
Marcona almonds, 50 g 10% ® Pulse in food processor to crumb-size particles, and reserve.
toasted
Razor clams 500 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
White wine (dry) 40 g 8% @ Steam or boil at 100 °C/212 °F for 3 min.
Borage blossoms as needed @ Chill, in bag, in ice-water bath.
(optional) @ Remove from bag, and strain clam cooking juices through fine sieve lined with coffee filter,
reservingjuices.
@ Remove clams from shells.
@ Clean meat, and vacuum seal with reserved juices.
@ Cook sous vide in 60 °C/ 140 °F bath for 10 min.
@ Chill sous vide bag in ice-water bath.
@ To serve, drain, reserving clams and juice separately.
@ Slice clams thinly.
@ Whisk some reserved juice into sauce verte, to taste.
@ Garnish clams with sauce verte and almond crumbs.
from page 3T12

SOUS VIDE OCTOPUS Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Octopus legs 500 g 100% @ Blanch for30 s to remove slime.
(eight legs) @ Cool in ice-water bath.
@ Vacuum seal individually.
@ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for4 h.
® Cool in bag, in ice-water bath.
® Peel skin off four octopus legs, leaving skins on remaining four legs.

Extra virgin olive oil 50 g 10% @ Vacuum seal peeled octopus legs with 25 g of oil.
® Reserve remaining 25 g of oil.

Salt to taste @ Warm peeled octopus in bag, in 60 °C/140 °F bath, forl5 min.
@ Brush reserved oil onto skins of unpeeled octopus legs.
@ Grill unpeeled octopus legs on griddle or over coals until deeply charred, about 2 min. Season
all legs with salt.

from page 5194

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 85

COOKING TOUGH CUTS
@ Select an ingredient and target temperature from the table below. @ Cooksous videforthe time indicated.
(D If cooking sous vide, set a water bath to the temperature indicated for the ® Serve immediately, or chill, and then refrigerate until needed. Reheat in a
desired texture. If pressure cooking, set the gauge pressure to 1 bar/ bath set to the cooking temperature.
15 psi, and cook for the time indicated, and then skip to step 5. ® Optionally, sear the food. See page 2-270 for searing methods.
@ Vacuum seal the food together with any flavorings, fats, or liquids. @ Season as desired.

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts

Pressure-
Cook sous vide
cook at 1 bar/
Firm, steak-like Tender, yielding Tender, flaky Very flaky 15 psi (gauge)
See
Ingredient ('■c) (°F) (h) (‘■c) (“F) (h) (°C) (°F) (h) (°C) (°F) (h) (min) Note page
beefcheek 58 136 72 62 72 68 154 36 80 176 12 60 remove connective tissue 5-55
beef short 56 133 72 58 136 72 60 72 88 190 7 50 texture is best when 5-42
rib, bone in carved just before serving
beef brisket 58 136 72 60 140 72 63 72 70 158 72 use the fattier, thick end of 88
the brisket called the nose
beef flatiron 52 126 24 55 131 12 62 144 48 88 190 5 remove central muscle 5-49
55 131 48 sheath, then apply Activa
flank steak 50 122 3 55 131 12 62 144 36 88 190 7
beefhanger 50 2 55 131 12 62 144 36 88 190 6
steak 55 131 48
oxtail n/a 60 100 65 149 48 70 158 24 70 5-49
lamb shank 58 136 48 62 48 85 185 5 88 190 5 60 5-89
lamb 56 133 48 62 144 48 65 149 24 85 185 5 40 coat meat with 5.0% olive 88
shoulder oil and 0.1% thyme to
prevent stronger lamb
notes from developing
pork belly 60 72 65 149 36 70 158 18 88 190 8 50 for firm texture, cure with 5-101
pink brine before cooking
pork 54 129 48 60 140 72 65 149 36 84 183 4 60 many individual muscles 89
shoulder or can be treated like tender
fresh ham cuts
pork cheek, n/a 65 149 38 68 154 48 85 185 5 35 122
fat cap on
pork ribs n/a 60 48 65 149 48 75 167 7 88
pork trotter n/a n/a n/a 85 185 12 120 169
and hock
suckling pig n/a 60 140 36 65 149 24 80 176 8 60
shoulder
and leg
rabbit n/a 60 140 4 66 151 1 85 185 1 hotter-than-core cooking
shoulder may be required for
younger animals
veal breast 54 129 to core 62 144 5 68 154 24 85 185 6 75 for steak-like texture, use 3-216
individual breast muscles;
remove fat and sinew
veal shank n/a 60 140 72 62 72 85 185 8 90 cook veal shanks whole 5-60
from page 3-109 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)

86 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

SUCKLING PIG SHOULDER WITH SHALLOT AND ORANGE SAUCE Yields 750 g (four portions)

ADAPTED FROM JOAN ROCA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Suckling pigshoulders 500 g 100% ® Vacuum seal individually.
(one shoulder) @ Cook sous vide in 65 °C /149 °F bath for 24 h.
Extra-virgin olive oil 60 g 12%

Sugar 20 g 4% @ Cook in small pot until dark caramel forms.

Brown pork stock 150 g 30% @ Deglaze caramel.

see page 6 ® Reduce to 150 g.
Orange juice, freshly 150 g 30%
squeezed and strained
Shallots, peeled and 400 g 80% ® Add to orange sauce.
halved (about eight @ Simmer until tender, about 30 min.
small halves)

Red wine vinegar lOg 2% ® Season orange sauce and shallots.

Cloves, finely ground to taste

Salt to taste

Frying oil as needed @ Debone warm pork shoulders, leavingskins on and keeping structures intact.

® Fry, skin side down only, in thin film of oil, until skin is crisp, about 4 min.

Elderflowers eight small tufts @ Cut each shoulder in half.

@ Distribute among four plates.
@ Garnish with shallots, orange sauce, and elderflower tufts.

Flaky sea salt to taste @ Season pork shoulderand shallots.

from page 3110

CRISPY DUCKTONGUES Yields 65 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 250 g 167% @ Vacuum seal.

Ducktongues 150 g 100% @ Cook sous vide in 88 °C /190 °F bath for 5 h.

Salt 5g 3% (D Remove from bag, and pull out central bone from each tongue while warm.
@ Dehydrate tongues in 50 °C /120 °F oven until completely dry, about 2 h.

Frying oil as needed © Heat oilforducktonguesto205 °C/400 "F.

® Deep-fry duck tongues until crispy and puffed, about 1 min.

@ Drain on papertowels, and season with salt.

from page 5-84

Yields 365 g
BEEE SHANK RILLETTE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beefshank, boneless 200 g 100% ® Cook sous vide in 85 °C /185 °F bath for 5 h.
@ Cool quickly in ice-water bath. Shred meat.

White beef stock, cold 125 g 62.5% @ Disperse agar and gelatin into stock.
see page 6 @ Boil for 3 min to fully hydrate.
160 Bloom gelatin 1.5g 0.75%
© Refrigerate until firmly set.
(0.9%)*
© Puree until fluid.
Agar 1.15 g 0.58%
(0.7%)*

Rendered beef suet 40 g 20% @ Heat fat until liquid is warm, but not hot.
© Blend into stock fluid gel until fully emulsified.

® Fold in shredded meat.

Black pepper to taste @ Season meat mixture generously, and vacuum seal.

Salt to taste @ Reheat in 50°C/ 122 °F bath for 20 min, or refrigerate until use.

from page 5-52 *(% of total weight of beef stock and beefsuet)

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 87

sous VIDE PORK BELLY
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole pork belly, on bone 2.4 kg 100% © Inject brine in amount equal to 10% of pork belly weight.
Pink brine 240 g 10% ©Vacuumseal in remaining brine for3 d.
see page 101
@ Drain brine from bag, and reseal pork belly.

@ Refrigerate for 2d before cooking to diffuse salt through meat.

© Remove meat from bag, and drain.
Water 800 g 33% ® Vacuum seal pork belly with water.

@ Cook sous vide in 62 °C/144 °F bath for 40 h.

® Chill in ice-water bath until firm.

@ Remove bellyfrom bag, and discard gelled cooking juices.

® Carve belly from ribs, and remove skin. Discard bones and skin.
® Portion belly into square blocks of ISOgeach.
@ Vacuum seal each portion individually.
@ Refrigerate.
Fryingoil as needed @To serve, reheat bagged pork belly portions in 62 °C/ 144 °F bath, about 15 min.
® Remove pork belly portions from bag, and sear, fat side only, until golden, about 2 min.
from page 5402

BRAISED LAMB SHOULDER Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lamb shoulder, boneless 500 g 100% © Vacuum seal.
Brown lamb stock lOOg 20% © Cook sous vide in 56 °C/133 °F bath for 48 h.
see page 6
© Slice or shred as desired, or cool bagged shoulder in ice-water bath and refrigerate until use.
Rendered duck fat 50 g 10%
Garlic, thinly sliced 9g 1.8%
Thyme 0.4 g 0.08%
Salt to taste @ Season.
from page 5-83

BEEF BRISKET Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beef brisket 700 g 100% © Smoke at 65 °C /149 °F with 65% relative humidity (wet-bulb temperature should be 55 °C /
131 “F)for7h.
© Vacuum seal.

© Cook sous vide in 63 °C /146 °F bath for 72 h.

® Trim off extra fat.
© Slice meat to serve.
Kansas City barbecue lOOg 14% ® Brush on sliced meat.
sauce
see page 220
from page 5-79

PORK RIBS Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pork spare ribs, 1.2 kg 100% © Smoke at 65 °C /149 °F with 60% relative humidity (wet-bulb temperature 55 °C /131 °F) for 7 h.
membrane removed
© Vacuum seal.

© Cook sous vide in 60 °C/140 °F bath for 48 h.

Dry rub, 30 g 2.5% ® Rub onto ribs just before serving.
from above
® Flash with blowtorch, or brown lightly if desired.
from page 5-78

88 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

PULLED PORK SHOULDER Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pork shoulder, skin on, 300 g 100% ® Smoke at 65 °C/149 °F with 60% relative humidity (wet-bulb temperature at 55 °C/131 °F)
boneless forZh.
@ Vacuum seal.
@ Cook sous vide in 65 °C /150 °F bath for 72 h.
©Pull meat apart with two forks, and discard pieces of fat.

Barbecue sauce 300 g 100% © Mix into pulled meat.

see page 4-49

from page 578

BRAISED VEAL FORESHANK Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Veal foreshank 1 kg (one whole) 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
Water 125 g 12.5% @ Cook sous vide in 62 °C /144 °F bath for 72 h.
@ Remove foreshank from bag, and cool in ice-water bath for 30 min.
© Divide foreshank into four equal portions, reserving cookingjuices and bones separately.
® Vacuum seal meat portions individually, and refrigerate.
® Refrigerate cookingjuices for making glaze, and reserve bones for making custard.

Squash glaze 100 g 12.5% @ Reheat meat portions in 62 °C/144 °F bath for25 min.
see page 39
® Brush with glaze, and season with sea salt.
Flaky sea salt to taste
from page 5-62

AMERICAN WAGYU BEEF CHEEK Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Wagyu beef cheeks, 500 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
trimmed of sinew and @ Cook sous vide in 62 °C /144 °F bath for 72 h.
silverskin
Goulash broth, 75 g 15%
see page 19
Neutral oil 25 g 5%

Goulash broth, 400 g 80% ® Reduce to 75 gto make glaze, and reserve warm.
see page 19
© Remove beef cheeks from bag and cut into slices 1 cm / yi in thick.
® Brush slices with warm glaze.

Flaky salt to taste ® Season and serve.

from page 5-57

RARE FLATIRON STEAK Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Flatiron steak 500 g 100% ® Butterfly steak to remove tendon.

Activa RM or GS as needed @ Dust each piece evenly with thin layer of Activa.

@ Fold steak closed.

© Vacuum seal together.
® Refrigerate for at least 6 h to ensure bonding.
® Cook sous vide in 55 °C /131 °F bath for 12 h.

Neutral oil as needed @ Sear steak until just golden, about 30 s. Slice into portions 1 cm /Ys in thick, and season with

to taste salt.
Salt

from page 5-50

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 89

 BRAISED SHORT RIBS Yields 1.2 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Short ribs, four-bone 3 kg 100% © Remove fat cap and silverskin covering ribs.
plate with ribs
© Vacuum seal ribs with beef stock.
10-12.5 cm /4-5 in long
@ Cook sous vide at 60 °C /140 °F, for 72 h.
White beef stock 225 g 7.5%
see page 6 ©Chill vacuum-sealed ribs quickly in ice-water bath.

© Remove ribs from bag, strain juices, and reserve.

@ Peel meatfrom bones, and set on plates.

@ Trim gristle from meat, and cut meat into even block-shaped portions (about 10 blocks).
©Vacuum seal, and reheat braised short ribs in 60 °C/140 °F bath for 30 min.
Salt to taste ® Remove short ribs from bags, and flash briefly with blowtorch to sear surface until golden,
about30 s.
@ Season.
from page 5-44

SOUS VIDE VEAL TONGUE Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Veal tongues 550 g 100% © Blanch for2 min.
@ Drain and cool.
Water lOOg 18% @ Combine with tongues, and vacuum seal.
Cider vinegar 45 g 8% ® Cook sous vide in 70 °C /158 °F bath for 24 h.
Carrot, peeled and thinly 20 g 4% © Remove tongues and cooking liquid from bag, reserving both.
© Peel tongues and slice thinly lengthwise.
Garlic, thinly sliced lOg 2%
© Reduce cooking liquid until syrupy, aboutIO min.
Sweet onion, thinly sliced lOg 2%
© Strain.
Salt 7g 1.3%
® Add sliced tongues to pan and warm through.
® Season with additional salt to taste.
from page 5-50

BEEF SHORT RIBS

Yields 500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beef short ribs 1.2 kg 100% © Smoke at 65 °C /149 °F with 65% relative humidity (wet-bulb temperature 55 °C /131 °F) for 7 h.
© Vacuum seal.

@ Cook sous vide in 60 °C/140 °F bath for 72 h.

® Slide bones out while meat is warm.
© Slice meat to serve.
EastTexas barbecue 100 g 8% © Brush on sliced meat.
sauce
from above
from page 5-79

GLAZED OXTAIL
Yields 325 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Oxtail, cut between joints 300 g 100% © Vacuum seal.
Brown beef jus 75 g 25% © Cooksous vide in 60 °C/140 °F bath forlOO h.
see page 34
@ Remove oxtail and juices from bag.

©Dislodge pieces of meat from bones and gristle, and refrigerate meat.
© Strain cookingjuices.

® Reduce juice to thick glaze. Glaze will thin when combined with oxtail pieces.
@ Cool glaze.

© Vacuum seal oxtail pieces with glaze.

© Reheat in 50 °C /122 °F bath for 20 min, or refrigerate until use.

r rr\

90
VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL
HOW TO PRESSURE-COOK TOUGH CUTS FOR QUICK RESULTS
® Add 0.5-1 cm / lA-’/i in ofwaterto the pressure cooker. © Cook for 20 min to make the meat firm but tender; for as long as 60 min
@ Add the meat and any seasonings. to make it flaky. Whole muscles or large portions will take longerto cook.

@ Heat to a gauge pressure ofl bar /15 psi, and then lower heat slowly until ® Cool the pressure cooker under cold running water.
hissing steam no longer leaves the pot. @ Lift the meat from the jus. Reduce the cooking juices to serve alongside
@ Vent steam for 1-2 min. the meat or for later use.

SOUS VIDE AND PRESSURE-COOKED VEAL BREAST WITH BULBOUS VEGETABLES vieidsikg
INSPIRED BY GRAY KUNZ

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Veal breast, sinew and 1kg 100% @ Rub veal with oil, and sear both sides in nonstick pan until golden.
excess fat trimmed
Neutral oil as needed
White wine (dry) 475 g 47.5% @ Deglaze, and then transfer to pressure cooker.
Apple cider (fresh) 300 g 30%
White peppercorns, 9g 0.9% @ Add to veal-wine mixture.
crushed @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar /15 psi fori'A h.
Bay leaf 0.2 g 0.02% ® Drain veal, and reserve in warm place with 50 g of cooking liquid.
Clove 0.2g 0.02% ® Reserve remaining cooking liquid for vegetables.
Cumin seeds 0.1 g 0.01%
Veal breast, central 500 g 50% @ Meanwhile, cook sous vide in 55 °C /131 °F bath to core temperature of 54 “C /129 “F, about
muscle, fat and sinew 0/2 h.
removed ® Allow to rest for 10 min at room temperature.
White cabbage, quartered 475 g 47.5% @ Cook vegetables in oil in bottom of pressure cooker until golden.
Sweet onions, quartered 275 g 27.5% @ Deglaze with reserved cooking liquid.
Leeks, greens removed 175 g 17.5% @ Pressure-cook for 7 min.
and halved
@ Remove vegetables, and strain cooking liquid to form sauce.
Shallots, skin on 135 g 13.5%
@ Peel skins from cooked vegetables, and reserve warm.
Garlic cloves, with skin 65 g 6.5%
@ Reduce strained sauce to glaze.
Vegetable oil as needed
@ Season, and reserve warm.
Unsalted butter 20 g 2% @ Briefly heat cooked vegetables with butter until glazed, about 2 min.
Neutral oil as needed @ Brown both pieces of veal over high heat for 30 s on each side.

Black pepper, finely to taste @ Season meat and vegetables.

ground @ Slice meats as desired, and divide among plates.
Salt to taste
@ Poursauce around.
from page 3-111

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 91

PRESSURE-COOKED CARNITAS Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pork shoulder, boneless, 1 kg 100% @ Remove all tendons and sinew.
cut into 2 cm / ^ in cubes
® Fill pressure cooker with 6 mm / 'A in water. Add meat.

@ Bringto pressure. When steam emerges, depress valve stem for2 min to vent fully.

® Cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 20 min, for tender but firm texture; or 40 min, for
flaky texture. Allow pressure cookerto cool forlO min before lifting meat from cookingjuices.
® Coarsely shred meat, if desired; set aside.
Pork cookingjuices, from 200 g 20% ® Reduce cookingjuices until slightly syrupy.
above

Achiote paste 15 g 1.5% @ Combine, and stir into reduced juices to make sauce.
Ancho chili powder 5g 0.5%
Chipotle chili powder 5g 0.5%
Neutral frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry shredded meat in 180 °C / 355 °F oil until golden brown, about 1 min.
@ Remove three-quarters of meat, straining out oil. Reserve.
@ Continue to fry remaining meat until very dark and crisp, about 5 min.
@ Combine all meat with sauce.
Lime juice to taste ® Season.
Salt to taste
from page3114

MICROWAVED TIL API A WITH SCALLIONS AND GINGER adapted from mrs. zhu Yields ssog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tilapia, cleaned and 800 g 100% @ Combine on microwave-safe plate.
gutted (one whole)
@ Cover tightly with plastic wrap.
Scallion whites, thinly 150 g 19%
@ Microwave at 600 W for 6 min.
sliced
® Remove scallions and ginger.
Shaoxing rice wine 5g 0.6%
Ginger, peeled and 2.5 g 0.3%
thinly sliced
Scallion greens, julienne lOg 1.3% ® Mound on top of cooked fish to garnish.
Ginger, peeled and 3g 0.38%
julienne
Cilantro leaves 1g 0.1%
Peanut oil 50 g 6.3% ® Heat to 190 °C/375 "F.
@ Drizzle hot oil over garnished fish.
Soy sauce 25 g 3% ® Combine.
Toasted sesame oil 2g 0.25% ® Pour over fish evenly.

® Lift fillets from bones, and serve with sauce and garnish.

from pageS llS

92 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

HOWTO PUFF THE SKIN ON A PORK ROAST
@ Remove the pork skin from the roast by cutting close to the meat. @ Roll the roast in the crumbled, dried skin to form an even coating. Allow
@ Cook the pork skin. Vacuum seal skin with water, and cook sous vide 1 min before frying to ensure the skin pieces stay adhered to surface of
in a 95 °C/203 "F bath forl2 h or pressure-cook for 60 min at a gauge meat during frying.

pressure of 1.4 bar/20.3 psi to complete the transition to a gelatin. @ Deep-fry the roast in 200°C/ 390°F oil. Cook just long enough for the
@ Lay the skin flat with the side toward the meat facing up, and gently scrape crumbled pork skin to puff into a golden, crispy crust, about 30 s.
away the fat. @ Season, slice, and serve the meat.
@ Dehydrate the prepared skin on a baking sheet in a 115 °C / 240 °F oven
until the skin becomes rigid.
® Use a food processor to chop the dried skin into small pieces. Use sieves Yields 800 g
to remove fragments much larger or smaller than 3 mm / /a in across.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Store the crumbled skin in an airtight container with a silica gel desiccant.
Pork skin, from roast 1 kg 100%
Use the too-big or too-small pieces for other purposes.
Water 250 g 25%
® Truss the meat, and cook it. Bind the frenched and trimmed pork loin
with acetate to form a tight cylinder. Cook the roast sous vide to the Rack of pork, skinless, 1 four-rib roast
preferred doneness; we recommend a core temperature of 60 °C/140 °F. frenched

@ Plunge the cooked meat in liquid nitrogen for 30 s to freeze a thin surface Ultra-Sperse M as needed
layer (optional). You can also ladle nitrogen over the meat. This step helps (ortapioca starch)
prevent the pork flesh from overcooking in the fryer. Water lOOg 10%
® Dip the meat in warm waterfor 3 s. The surface will become tacky. Methocel KIOOM (Dow brand) 0.5 g 0.05%
® Coat the meat with a pregelatinized starch such as Ultrasperse M. Shake Frying oil as needed
off any excess. Salt to taste
@ Disperse the Methocel into boiling water. Cool Methocel solution from page 3-126
completely, and whip to stiff peaks. Dip the roast in foam to evenly coat
entire surface. For more on making this foam, see page 517.
This approach works best for meats with a thick skin that otherwise would
be too hard to eat.

ULTRACRISP CHICKEN CROWN YieldsSOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole chicken skin, removed 200 g 20% ® Lay flat, feather side down, on silicone mat.
in one piece
Salt 2g 0.2% @ Dust evenly over skin.
@ Refrigerate uncovered for 12 h to dehydrate.

Chicken skin pieces, chopped 250 g 25% @ Combine, pack tightly into Pacojet, and freeze.

Activa GS 5g 0.5% ® Process three times; pack firmly and freeze thoroughly after each cycle.

Salt 2.5 g 0.25% ® Alternatively, puree in food processor, and pass through fine sieve.
@ Spread onto dehydrated chicken skin in even layer 2.5 mm / /a in thick.

Skin, from above 280 g 28% ® Dust Activa GS around perimeter of skin.

Activa GS 3g 0.3%

Chicken crown 1 kg 100% @ Place skin over chicken crown, and tuck in all edges. Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate for 30 min to ensure all air pockets between skin and meat are removed.
® Refrigerate uncovered for at least 5 h before assembly.

Liquid nitrogen as needed @ Cook chicken crown in convection oven at 65 °C / 149 °F to core temperature of 60 °C /

Neutral frying oil as needed 140 °F, about 40 min.

® Lowertemperature to 60 °C/ 140 °F, and hold for 1 h.
@ Heat oil to 200 °C/ 390 °F.
©Dip cooked chicken crown in liquid nitrogen for 30 s, preferably with wire hook.

@ Deep-fry in hot oil for 45 s.

® Repeat dipping in liquid nitrogen and deep-frying until crown is golden and very crispy,
about three cycles.

Salt to taste © Carve chicken from crown, and season with salt.

from page 3-134

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 93

PORK LOIN ROAST Yields 900 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Kosher salt 250 g 17% ® Mix together thoroughly.
Pain d'epices powder lOOg 7%
see page 51

Rack of pork loin 1.5 kg 100% ® Roll pork loin in spiced salt without letting salt touch ends of loin.
(first eight ribs from
@ Wrap in plastic wrap, and cure in refrigerator for 48 h.
shoulder) with fat cap
@ Remove skin and fat, and refrigerate.
and skin

Gelatinized pork skin, 300 g 20% © Measure and reserve individually.

dried and finely minced
see page 93

Crisp Coat UC 60 g 4%
(National Starch brand)

Water 200 g 13% ® Bring water to simmer, and mix in methylcellulose with hand blender.
Methocel E4M 5g 0.3% © Hold at simmer for 2 min while blending continuously.
(Dow brand)
® Cool, and vacuum seal.
Liquid nitrogen (optional) as needed
@ Refrigerate forl2 h to allow methylcellulose to hydrate.

@ Cook pork loin sous vide in 61 °C/ 142 °F bath to core temperature of 60 °C / 140 °F, about
1'/2 h; longer for full pork loin.

® Whip methylcellulose solution with electric whisk or mixer until stiff peaks form.
@ Transfer solution to container large enough to accommodate whole pork loin.
® Dip cooked pork loin in liquid nitrogen for 30 s, and then in warm waterfor5 s.
(This step is optional. See page 3-126.)

@ Sift thin layer of starch over pork loin, and shake off excess.

@ Roll meat in whipped methylcellulose, and then in minced pork skin.

Frying oil as needed @ Deep-fry in 185 °C/ 365 °F oil until just puffed and golden, about 30 s.
® Rest meat for 3 min.

@ Slice roast between each bone and serve.

from page 5-23

PUFFED COCKSCOMB YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cockscombs 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
White chicken stock 50 g 50% @ Cook in 85 °C /185 °F bath for2 h to gelatinize skins.
see page 11

® Remove from bag.

© Dehydrate at 50 °C/120 °F until cockscombs are half their original weight, about 2 h.
Frying oil as needed © Deep-fry cockscombs in 190 °C / 375 °F oil until slightly puffed, very crispy, and no longer
bubbling, about5 min.
@ Drain on papertowels.
Salt to taste ® Season.
from page 3133

94 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

MONKFISH WITH CONSTRUCTED SKIN ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields420g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cod skins, washed 1 kg 250% @ Coverwith water, and bringto boil.
and desalted @ Simmer until reduced to one-quarter of original volume.
@ Strain.
@ Reduce broth by half, until it is very thick.
© Measure 150 g of reduction, and reserve.
Water 1.5 kg 375% ® Hydrate gelatin in cold water for 5 min.
160 Bloom gelatin 2g 0.5% @ Squeeze out excess moisture in gelatin, and then mix into warm reduction until fully dissolved.
© Spread on nonstick surface in layer 1 mm / >32 in thick.
© Dry at room temperature until dry film has formed, about 1 d.
Vodka 2,5 g 0.63% @ Mix together.
Edible silver powder 0.5 g 0.13% @ Paint onto film with brush.
® Dry film at room temperature for 3 h.
® Cut into 5 cm / 2 in squares.
@ Reserve in airtight container.
Monkfish fillet, trimmed 400 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
and cut into 5 cm /2 in @ Cook sous vide in 48 °C/ 118 °F bath to core temperature of 47 °C/ 117 °F, about 20 min.
cubes
Extra-virgin olive oil 30 g 7.5%
Salt 15g 4% ® Season monkfish.
@ Lay piece of film "skin" on top of each monkfish cube.
from page 3-132

PUFFED SALMON SKIN PILLOWS Yields 35 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Salmon skin 25 g 100% ® Vacuum seal.
(one intact piece) @ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 3 h.
© Remove from bag to cool.
©Trim, and cut into at least24 squares, each measuring3.5 cm /IV2 in.

Activa GS 5g 20% © Whisk together.

Water, 5g 20% © Brush mixture on 3 mm /% in edge of each salmon skin square.
10-25 °C / 50-77 °F @ Sandwich two squares together to seal.
© Repeat to make total of at least 12 sandwiched squares.
© Vacuum seal without overlapping.
@ Refrigerate for at least 6 h.

Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry salmon skin pillows in 175 °C/ 350 °F oil until golden and puffed, about 8 min.

Salt to taste ® Drain, and season with salt.

from page 5-163

PUFFED CHICKEN FEET Yields 80 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken feet 500 g 100% © Vacuum seal together.

Water lOOg 20% @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194°F bath for 12 h.

Salt 2g 0.4% © Drain.

© Remove bones using scalpel and tweezers. P^f^^d chicken feet are the chicken
^ . equivalent of a puffed pork skin or
© Dehydrate at 115 °C/240 °F for 3 h. „ , . ,
' puffed snack (see page 342). Feet
Frying oil as needed © Deep-fry chicken feet in 190 °C/375 °\ oil until ^^^k well because of their high
puffed, 30-45 s. gelatin content.
@ Drain on papertowels.
from page 3-133

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 95

OFFAL sous VIDE

® Prepare the meat. Many organ meats require an initial preparation step, Estimated cooking times are given in some cases; in others, "to core"
such as blanchingorsoakingin water ora marinade. indicates that cooking should continue until the core temperature of the
food reaches the recommended temperature.
@ Vacuum seal. Most offal recipes require no other ingredients.
® Sear (optional).
@ Cook sous vide to the desired doneness. The tables below list
recommended temperatures; those printed in bold are ourfavorites. ©Chill and set (for meat served cold).

Best Bets for Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide

Tender, juicy Braised texture
(°C) (°F) (h) (°C) (°F) (h) Note See page

beef and veal tongue 68 154 12 67 153 48 5-49

ducktongue 70 158 8 88 190 5 remove central bone while still hot 87

chicken gizzard n/a 60 140 12 cure before cooking 5-125

veal heart n/a 80 176 5

honeycomb tripe n/a 88 190 2

cockscomb n/a 85 185 2 blanch and peel before cooking 94

from page 3446 (times in bold are those we prefer)

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide

Medium rare Pink Medium
(°C) (°F) (h) (°C) (°F) (h) (°c) (“F) (h) Note See page

duck foie gras 50 122 to core* 54 129 to core* 60 140 to core* below, 98,
56 133 to core* 99

poultry liver 52 126 to core* 56 133 to core* 60 140 to core*

veal liver 58 136 to core* 62 144 to core* 65 149 to core* soak in milk or water for at least 8 h
before serving
lamb n/a 55 131 2 65 149 1 soak in water for at least 5 h before
sweetbreads serving

veal n/a 60 140 1 67 153 1 next page,

sweetbreads 99,100

cock's kidney n/a 70 158 20 min n/a panfry briefly after cooking for best 98
texture
kidney n/a 56 133 to core* 60 140 1 pork kidney is ideal because it is
(mammal) often mildertastingthan othertypes
of kidneys
from page 3146 *(lf cookedjust to these core temperatures, these meats may not meet food safety guidelines. To pasteurize, hold at the
cooking temperature for the period of time given by the table on page 1184. Times in bold are those we prefer.)

SOUS VIDE FOIE GRAS Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Flash-frozen foie gras, 400 g 100% ® Vacuum seal portions individually.
presliced, 2.5 cm /1 in (four 100 g @ Reserve frozen until ready to serve.
portions)
@ Cook foie gras sous vide directly from freezer at 53 °C/127 °F to core temperature of 52 °C/
126 °F, about 35 min.

Flaky salt to taste @ Cut each portion into slices 1 cm / Vs in thick.

® Season.
Duck broth with vanilla 100 g 25% ® Pour around foie gras portions.
and bay leaf, warmed
see page 16
from page 5-110

96 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

ANKIMO TORCHON Yields 450 g Many recipes for foie gras, liver,
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE sweetbreads, and other offal
include a soaking step before
Monkfish liver 500 g 100% @ Remove main veins.
cooking. For kidneys, this step
(ankimo quality) @ Cover in water, and soak refrigerated for 3 h, changing
serves a very simple purpose: to
water every 30 min.
remove any trace of the animal's
@ Drain and reserve. bodily fluids. Recipes often call
Water 200 g 40% @ Whisk together to make brine. for soaking foie gras, liver, and

Sake 50 g 10% ® Vacuum seal monkfish livers with brine, and sweetbreads in milk. It is often said
that milk improves the taste, purges
Salt 8.75 g 1.75% refrigerate for 24 h.
blood, lightens the color, or affects
(3.5%)* ® Drain.
some other property of the meat.
Sugar 6.25 g 1.25% @ Roll livers together into tight cylinder by using plastic We were skeptical, so we tried
(2.5%,)* wrap. several experiments. With
® Vacuum seal. a mild-flavored organ meat like foie

® Cook sous vide in 63 °C /145 °F bath to core gras, we could taste a difference,
temperature of 62 °C /144 °F, about 35 min. but, frankly, in our tests, we prefer
the taste of water-soaked to
® Cool, and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to
milk-soaked foie gras. With
mature.
stronger-flavored organ meats,
Daikon, julienne as desired @ Slice monkfish liver, garnish with daikon, and serve there is even less of a difference
Sous vide ponzu as desired with ponzu. than with foie gras. So oursugges-
see page 22 tion is to simply soak the meat in
from page 3-147 *(% of total combined weight of water and sake) water.

SWEETBREADS WITH SOUR MANGO POWDER AND SHIITAKE Yields 650 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Veal sweetbreads 600 g 100% ® Peel off exterior membranes.
White vegetable stock 200 g 33% @ Vacuum seal with stock and salt.
see page 6
@ Cook sous vide in 67°C/153 °F bath fori h.
Salt 98 1.5%
Carrot, finely minced 60 g 10% ® Sweat until carrots and ginger are tender, about 5 min.
Unsalted butter 60 g 10%
Ginger, finely minced 32 g 5.5%
Shiitake, thinly sliced 120 g 20% ® Add, and cook until tender, about 5 min.
Shallot, thinly sliced 80 g 13.5%
Brown chicken stock 110 g 18.5% ® Deglaze sauce base.
see page 6
@ Reduce until syrupy, about 5 min.
White port (dry) 40 g 6.5%
Manzanilla sherry 25 g 4%
Amchoor (sour mango 34.5 g 6% ® Whisk 4.5 g of amchoor and 1 g of licorice into sauce, and reserve.
powder)
Licorice powder 6g 1%
Freeze-dried carrot 30 g 5% ® Combine with remainingamchoorand licorice powder.
powder
@ Dust powder over surfaces of cooked sweetbreads.
see page 340
Clarified unsalted butter 70 g 11.5% @ Fry sweetbreads in very hot butter until golden on both sides, about 1 min each.

Salt to taste @ Season sauce and sweetbreads.

Lemon juice to taste @ Slice sweetbreads into desired dimensions.
@ Divide evenly among four plates, and garnish with sauce.
from page 3151

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 97

 Yields 800 g
FOIE GRAS AND BUTTON MUSHROOM TART
ADAPTED FROM PASCAL BARBOT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Verjuice (store-bought) 1 kg 140% @ Marinate foie gras in verjuice for 3 h.

Duck foie gras, Grade A 700 g 100% @ Cut carefully into slices 5 mm /%6 in thick, and reserve.

Button mushrooms 450 g 65% @ Peel, and rub with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.
(12 large @ Slice very thinly on mandoline, and reserve about 20 slices for garnish.
mushrooms)

Lemon juice 16g 2%

Roasted-hazelnut oil lOg 1.5% © Season remaining mushroom slices, and reserve.

Orange zest, finely grated 3g 0.4%

Black pepper to taste

Salt to taste

Maple syrup 40 g 5.5% © Whisk together to make maple butter.

Unsalted butter, melted 20 g 3%

Brik pastry sheets three pieces @ Lay one sheet of pate a brick on silicone mat.
@ Brush carefully with maple butter.
® Repeat with other two sheets until three-layer pastry stack is formed.
® Punch out 12 cm / 414 in circles from stack, using pastry cutter; makes about 20 rounds.

® Place rounds on baking sheet between two silicone mats.

@ Bake in 160 °C/320 °F oven for 12 min.__

Dried mushrooms, as needed ® Arrange seasoned mushrooms on each pate a brick round.
ground to fine powder @ Top with slices of marinated foie gras.

® Dust lightly with mushroom powder.

@ Top with reserved, unseasoned mushroom slices.

® Dustwith more mushroom powder.__

Eggless citrus curd 70 g 10% @ Slice rounds (tarts) into quarters,

see page 307 0 with dab of curd on side.

from page 3148

SOUS VIDE PIGEON OFFAL Yieids300g

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE _

Pigeon hearts 100 g 100% ® Measure and reserve individually.
(four hearts,
25 geach)

Rendered duck fat_50 g_50%__

Cock's kidneys 100 g 100% ©Vacuum seal.
(four kidneys, @ Cook sous vide in 70 “C/158 “F bath for 20 min.
25 g each)__
Pigeon gizzards, 150 g 150% @ Vacuum seal together.
split and peeled ® Cook sous vide in 60 °C/140 °F bath for 12 h.
Rendered duck fat 50 g 50% ® Reserve duck fat.

Neutral frying oil as needed @ Brown kidneys gently in oil to achieve golden crust.

Salt to taste ® Slice browned kidneys in half lengthwise and gizzards into thin pieces, and season with salt.

® Brown hearts on all sides in reserved duck fat for 2 min, and season with salt.

@ Serve as garnish for ragout of grains; see page 156._

from page 5T30

98 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

FOIE GRAS SOUP WITH BOMBA RICE AND SEA LETTUCE
ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields 800 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Foie gras lobe, Grade B 600 g 100% @ Cut into two or three large pieces, depending on size.
If three pieces, cut offends by about 1 cm/’/z into
facilitate removing blood.
Whole milk 1 kg 167% @ Whisk until salt has dissolved, and bring to 30 °C/
Water 1 kg 167% 86 “F.
An alternative to baking foie gras in
Table salt lOg 1.7% @ Add foie gras pieces; keep submerged for3 h. the oven is to seal raw foie gras in a
@ Remove foie gras from milk brine, and pat dry. sous vide bag and cook it at 58 °C /
Sunfloweroil 50 g 8.3% @ Sear brined foie gras until golden brown on all sides. 136 °F. Remove the meatfrom the
bag, place a weighted sheet pan
© Bake in 130 °C / 265 °F oven to core temperature of
on top of the foie gras to press out
58°C/136°F.
excess fat and blood, and then sear
@ Remove, and place weighted sheet pan on top of foie the meat. This procedure replaces
gras to press out excess fat and blood. steps 5-7 in the recipe at left.
® Rest in warm place forS min.
Extra-virgin olive oil lOg 1.7% @ Sweat until lightly golden, about7 min.
Yellow onion, finely 25 g 4.2%
chopped
Bomba rice 50 g 8.3% @ Add rice to onion, and toast for 5 min.
White vegetable stock, 500 g 83% ® Pour in hot vegetable broth, and simmerfor 15 min.
brought to a boil
see page 6
Sea lettuce (fresh) 50 g 8.3% ©Add to rice, simmerfor 5 min, and remove from heat.
® Cover pot, let stand for 15 min, and pass through fine
sieve.
Salt as needed @ Season broth.

® Slice foie gras into four portions, each 4 cm/ V/2 in

thick, and place in center of four warm bowls.
@ Finish with rice broth.
from page 3T49

SOUS VIDE VEAL SWEETBREADS Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Veal sweetbreads 500 g 100% ® Cover sweetbreads with water. Refrigerate for 4 h.
Water as needed @ Drain, and then repeat process twice for total soaking time of 12 h.
@ Discard liquid.

@ Peel membrane off sweetbreads, and trim away fat and veins.
© Vacuum seal.
© Cook sous vide in 67 °C /153 °F bath fori h.
White veal stock 300 g 60% @ Meanwhile, combine, and reduce to 50 g.
see page 6
® Bring reduction to boil, and remove from heat.
Fino sherry 150 g 30%
Dried licorice root 2.5 g 0.5% @ Add to hot reduction, and infuse for 7 min.
Fennel seeds 0.5 g 0.1% @ Strain.
Star anise 0.5 g 0.1%
Kaolin clay 2g 0.4% @ Whisk into infused reduction to create glaze.
Salt to taste ® Season clay glaze.
@ Add sweetbreads to hot glaze, and baste until glaze has reduced and sweetbreads are well
coated, about 1 min.
® Cut sweetbreads into portions 2.5 cm / 1 in thick.
from page 5-32

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 99

CRISPY SWEETBREADS adapted from scott anderson Yields 1.2 kg (six portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White soy sauce 140 g 23.5% @ Combine, and vacuum seal.

Extra-virgin olive oil 70 g 11.5% (D Cook sous vide in 93 °C/199 °F bath for 10 min.

Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 60 g 10% (?) Cool, strain, and reserve.
Black pepper, 1.5g 0.25%
coarsely ground
Veal sweetbreads 600 g 100% @ Peel off exterior membranes.
® Separate along seams, using sharp knife, into 2.5 cm /1 in pieces, and reserve.

® Vacuum seal sweetbreads with cooled infusion.

@ Cook sous vide in 60 °C/140 °F bath fori h.

® Cool quickly in ice-water bath.

Wondra flour 20 g 3.5% ® Combine to make dredging powder, and reserve.

Pistachio powder 15 g 2.5%

Salt 0.5% *
3g
Dried orange zest powder 2 g 0.3%

White asparagus stalks, 130 g 22% @ Sweat together until asparagus stalks are tender.
chopped
Spanish onion, thinly 90 g 15%
sliced
Extra-virgin olive oil 15 g 2.5%

Soy milk 300 g 50% @ Add to asparagus mixture, and simmer until very tender, about 15 min.

Macadamia nut butter 35 g 6% ® Puree, and pass through fine sieve.

Salt to taste ® Season asparagus stalk puree, and reserve warm.

Asparagus tips, blanched 90 g 15% @ Warm in small pot.

and cut lengthwise @ Drain cooked sweetbread pieces, and coat with dredging powder.
@ Fry in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until golden brown and just warmed through, about 45 s.

® Drain on paper towels.

Chickpeas, cooked and 60 g 10% @ Spoon asparagus puree into bowls.

peeled ® Top with crisp sweetbread pieces, asparagus tips, and chickpeas.

Black summertruffle, 12 g 2% @ Garnish plates.

julienne @ Dust with additional dredging powder.
Chive flowers as needed
from page 3150

100 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

BRINES, CURES, AND DRY RUBS

@ Select a brine, wet cure, or dry rub; the Best Bets tables below and on the are given using two distinct kinds of baker's percentages. Quantities in
next page suggest many good options. the scaling 1 column are relative to the combined weight of the meat and

(D Combine the ingredients, stir fully to dissolve, and then refrigerate the water (excluding the weight of any bones), and are appropriate for the

solution. Quantities for rubs are given relative to the amount of salt. For equilibrium brining method described on page 3170. Quantities in the

example, to make a basic dry rub, use 10 g of sugar and 5 g of spices for scaling 2 column are for use with the more traditional high-concentration

every 100 g of salt. For convenience, quantities for brines and wet cures approach described on page 3-171, and are explained there.

Best Bets for Brines

Recipe Ingredients (scaling 1) (scaling 2) Note See page
basic brine meat and water 100% works well for most applications 5-113
water as needed 100%
salt 1% 7%
sugar 0.4% 3%

basic seafood brine meat and water 100% higher sugar content balances this brine for 5-161
water as needed 100% delicate fish and shellfish
salt 1% 5%
sugar 0.6% 3.5%
basic pink brine meat and water 100% has an effective nitrite concentration 5-101
water as needed 100% of 0.12%; works well with color-sensitive
salt 10% 10% meats, such as pork belly ortongue

Insta Cure No. 1 0.2% 2%

basic phosphate brine meat and water 100% firms meat and maintains moisture; using
water as needed 100% more sodium tripolyphosphate than indicated
salt 1% 7% here can produce a rubbery texture

sodium tripolyphosphate 0.007% 0.05%

umami brine meat and water 100% saltiness varies with brand and type of soy
water as needed 100% sauce but is usually about 19%; usukuchi shoyu
usukuchishoyu 5.3% 100% has an excellent flavor

honey 1% 20%
cola brine meat and cola 100% popular sweet brine in the American South;
cola (not diet cola) as needed 100% neveradd curingsalts to cola brines because
salt 1% 8% the mixture will release a lethal gas

dairy brine meat & cultured whey 100% has a mild tenderizing effect; adds
cultured whey as needed 100% characteristic dairy sweetness; especially
salt 1% 6% good with mild meats like chicken and fish

from page 3-168

The resting step that follows brining works very much like the resting one M =1,000 g, the starting weight ofthe pork chops. To achieve a final salinity
does after cooking meat. The salt, just like the heat, continues to diffuse D = 0.7%, brine to a target weight of T = 1,000 -r (0.7 x 1,000 -i- 6.54) = 1,107 g.
through the meat after it is removed from the source. Another way to judge The pork chops will thus weigh about 1.107 kg when they have reached the
when brining is complete is to calculate the final weight of the meat when it desired degree of saltiness.
has reached the desired salinity, D (in percent), which typically ranges from Sometimes cured meats and seafood are also smoked as part ofthe ripen¬
lightly brined at 0.7% salinity to an intense cure of 2%. First, determine the ing process. We discuss the details of smoking food in chapter 7 on Tradi¬
salinity S of the brine from the weight of salt and water in grams by using the tional Cooking, page 2-2, and in chapterll on Meat and Seafood, page 3-208.
formula S = 100 « salt ^ (salt -r water). Next weigh the unbrined meat to obtain We mention it here to point out that it can be an important step after curing.
the startingweight M in grams. Then calculate the target weight ofthe meat Sometimes, it is done early, often during the resting step, after the curing is
T by using the formulaT = M -r (D X M -r S ). complete. Qther times, it's done at the end, after the product is fully mature.
As the meat soaks in the brine, remove and weigh it periodically to check The choice to do it early or late comes down to whether or not you want a
whether the weight has increased to the target weight. For example, if brining distinct smoky aroma. Qvertime, smoke aromas dissipate to the point that
1 kg pork chops in the basic brine recipe above, S = 100 x 7 -i- (7 -r 100) = 6.54. you would no longer describe the flavor as smoky.

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 101

Best Bets for Wet Cures
Effective Effective nitrite
Recipe Ingredients* (scaling!) (scalin g2) salinity concentration Note

basic wet cure water and meat 100% 17% 0.1% keep meats and seafoods submerged and
water as needed 100% refrigerated

salt 2% 20%
Insta Cure No. 1** 0.14% 1.40%
basic sweet cure water and meat 100% 17% 0.1% sugar, corn syrup, honey, molasses, and treacle
water as needed 100% are all commonly used sweeteners

salt 2% 20%
sweetener 1.5% 15%
Insta Cure No. 1** 0.14% 1.4%
Wiltshire water and meat 100% 19% 0.10% nitrite traditionally used for bacon
tank cure water as needed 100% 0.25% nitrate

salt 2% 20%
sodium nitrite 0.001% 0.01%
sodium nitrate 0.003% 0.03%
corned beef cure water and meat 100% 10% 0.1% to make pickling spice mix, combine 10 g cor-
water as needed 100% iander seed, 8 g black peppercorns, 5 g yellow

2% 8% mustard seeds, 5 g dill seeds, 5 g star anise.

salt
1 g mace, 1 g clove, and two fresh bay leaves for
brown sugar 1.7% 4.5%
each 1 kg cure; combine cure ingredients and
Insta Cure No. 1 0.14% 1.4%
bringto boil; cool completely to infuse; inject
pickling spice mix see note
10% cure to weight of meat; submerge meat in
remaining cure; refrigerate for 3-5 d; rinse

from page 3-169 *(allow sufficient cure to cover meat or seafood); **{optional)

Phosphates in brines or wet cures should be dissolved Forthe herbs and spices in the dry rub recipes, use any spice
separately in a small;amount of warm water and added mix, such as our Indies Spice Blend (page 48), Kansas and
to the main mixture only afterfully dissolved. Memphis Rubs (page 49), Pastrami Spice Blend (see page
121), or various curry blends (see page 5-89).

Best Bets for Dry Rubs

Effective nitrite
Recipe Ingredients* (scaling) concentration Note
basic dry rub salt 100% none customizable to your own taste
sugar (optional) 10%
herbs and spices (optional) 5%
sweet dry rub salt 100% none
sugar 50%
herbs and spices (optional) 5%
pink salt rub salt 100% less than 0.15% only suitable for brief dry-curing or
Insta Cure No. 1 16% brining under refrigeration

sugar (optional) 20%

herbs and spices (optional) 5%
slow-curing rub salt 100% less than 0.15% for both recipe includes nitrates; must be
Morton Tender Quick 43% nitrites and nitrates used only for dry, long cures

sugar (optional) 30%

herbs and spices (optional) 5%
from page 3169 * (allow sufficient rub to cover meat or seafood)

102 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

Best Bets for Brining
Thickness Soak* Rinse Rest

Recommended brine (cm) (in) (h) (min) (h) Note See page
Meat
chicken breast, boneless and basic brine 3.2 11/4 4 n/a 2 extend soakingtime if skin on or 101

skinless bone in

chicken legs, skin on, bone in basic brine 3.8 11/2 7 n/a 3 101

3.2 T/4 10 n/a 5 101

duck breast, skin on, boneless basic phosphate brine
fish fillet, portion, skinless basic seafood brine 3.8 l'/2 5 n/a 1 101

basic seafood brine 3.2 11/4 3 n/a 1 101

lobster tail, whole, shelled
basic seafood brine 1.25 2 n/a 1/2 101
shrimp, whole, shelled 1/2

basic pink brine 6.4 21/2 72 2 h 24 adjust soaking time for 101
pork belly, whole, skin on,
bone in preportioned cuts

basic brine 2.5 1 see note vacuum seal pork with brine 101
pork chop, bone in
until meat absorbs 10% of liquid

juniper brine 3.8 11/2 12 n/a 8 69

pork tenderloin, whole
cola brine 23 9 72 2h n/a inject with 7% brine, and 101
pork shoulder, whole, skin on
immerse in remaining brine**

umami brine 3.8 11/2 10 30 n/a 101

sweetbreads, membrane
peeled
basic phosphate brine 7.6 3 24 2 h n/a inject with 14% brine, and 101, 90
veal tongue
2.5 kg 24 n/a 24 immerse in remaining brine**
whole chicken basic brine

whole turkey basic brine 5 kg 48 n/a 48

* (tumbling or injecting the meat reduces the soaking time required);
From page 3172
**(by weight of meat, which is about 60% of weight of whole poultry)

Best Bets for Curing

Thickness Cure time* Rinse Rest
Recommended
(cm) (in) (d) (h) (h) Example use Note See page
Meat rub or cure
beef tenderloin, basic dry rub 8.75 3/2 2 n/a 24 cured beef

whole
pastrami cure 7.5 3 7.5 n/a n/a corned beef we prefer the meat from the 88
brisket, whole
pastrami nose end

basic sweet cure, 2.5 1 1 wipe off 12 corned duck, for corned duck, cook after
duck breast,
corned beef cure cure duck ham curing; for duck ham, hang
skin on
dry in refrigerator for 7 d

3.2 1/4 6h wipe off n/a duck confit can be cured for up to 12 h 105
duck leg, basic dry rub
cure for a firmertexture
skin on
1/2 24-28 h wipe off n/a smoked vacuum sealing 121
fish fillet, whole 3% salt, 1% sugar to 3.75
weight offish cure salmon recommended
side, skin on
basic dry rub, 6.25 2/2 5-7 n/a 7d bacon omit resting if using
pork belly, whole,
Wiltshire tank cure Wiltshire tank cure
skin on, bone in
basic wet cure, 17.5 7 12-15 8 8 honey baked injection curing no
pork leg, skin on,
ham, recommended
bone in (fresh ham) blackstrap
molasses cure prosciutto

pink salt cure 3.75 1/2 1 2 n/a guanciale

pork jowl, skin on
7 23/4 5 quick 12 smoked ham
pork shank, skinless sweet dry rub
rinse hock
(ham hock)
from page 3172 *{cure time is approximate, but varies with the thickness of the meat)

103
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
FOIE GRAS TORCHON Yields 875 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Raw duck foie gras, 800 g 100% (i) Bring lobe of foie gras to room temperature.
Grade A @ Butterfly lobe carefully to reveal network of blood vessels.
Water, cold as needed @ Remove veins and any remaining blood by scraping away with spoon.
@ Set aside foie gras.
White port (sweet) 16g 2% ® Blend to form cure.
Salt 14g 1.75% ® Rub onto foie gras; cover completely.
Cognac 4g 0.5% @ Vacuum seal foie gras.
Sugar 4g 0.5% ® Refrigerate for 12 h to cure.
Insta Cure No. 1 2g 0.25% ® Cook cured foie gras sous vide in 56 °C/133 °F bath to core temperature of 55 °C/131 °F, about
20 min.
@ Remove from bag, and cool at room temperature for 10 min, or until fat begins to congeal.
® Reserve 50 g of fat.
Synthetic sausage casing, 1 piece @ Puree cooked foie gras.
5 cm /2 in diameter, @ Pour into synthetic sausage casing.
20 cm / 8 in long
©Tie ends ofcasingwith butcher's twine.
@ Refrigerate for at least 3 d to age.
Brioche loaf 300 g 37.5% © Cut into slices 2.5 cm / 1 in thick and 75 g each.
Foie gras fat, from above 50 g 6.25% @ Brush brioche slices evenly with reserved foie gras fat.
Salt 3g 0.4% @ Toast slices in nonstick pan until edges are golden and centers are tender, about 3 min.
Yuzu and kumquat 40 g 5% ® Serve slices of aged foie gras with marmalade and hot, toasted brioche.
marmalade
see page 181
from page 3176

FOIE GRAS PARFAIT Yields 600 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Raw duck foie gras 425 g 100% ® Slice 1 cm /% in off each end of lobe.
Whole milk as needed @ Cover foie gras with milk, soak for 5 h in refrigerator to drain blood, and then drain and
vacuum seal.

@ Cook sous vide in 57 °C /135 °F bath to core temperature of 56 °C /133 °F, about 20 min.
White duck stock 170 g 40% @ Whisk salts and sugar into stock until dissolved. Cool completely.
® Blend foie gras with stock.
see page 6
® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Insta Cure No. 1 6g 1.4%
Salt 6g 1.4%
Sugar 3g 0.7%
from page 5-268

BACON CHIP Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Maple syrup 50 g 20% @ Simmertogether until dissolved.
Water 50 g 20% @ Cool syrup.
Glucose syrup DE 40 45 g 18%
Isomalt 25 g 10%
Sorbitol Ig 0.4%
Cured bacon, sliced 250 g 100% ® Soak bacon slices in syrup in refrigerator for 2 h.
1 mm /y\6 in thick
® Dehydrate at 60 °C /140 °F until crisp, 12-14 h.
store-bought or see page 107
® Store chips in cool, dry place.
from page 5-220

104 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SHAVED FOIE GRAS ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG Yieldsl.2 kg(16 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lychees, drained 200 g 50% (J) Quarter.
(canned in syrup)
@ Refrigerate until use.
For Rieslinggelee:
160 Bloom gelatin 4g 1% @ Combine, and bringto simmer.
(two sheets) @ Refrigerate in small mixing bowl for 6-8 h.
Riesling (d ry) 250 g 62.5%
© Stir, and thoroughly break up gelee once an hour with long-tined fork. This will give
Rice vinegar 4g 1% appearance of shattered glass.

© Cover gelee, and store refrigerated for no more than 1 wk.

For pine nut brittle:
Sugar lOOg 25% @ Cover baking sheet with parchment paper or silicone mat, and set aside for caramel.
Glucose lOOg 25% © Combine sugar, glucose, and isomalt in heavy-bottom saucepan.
Isomalt lOOg 25% ® Cook over medium heat without disturbing until golden caramel forms, 12-15 min, and remove
from heat.
Pine nuts 400 g 100% @ Meanwhile, toast nuts in 150°C/300°F oven until golden and fragrant, 6-7 min.
@ Fold into caramel.
Unsalted butter, brought 75 g 18.75% @ Stir into caramel until fully incorporated, about 30 s.
to room temperature
® Pour caramel immediately onto prepared baking sheet in thin layer, and cool.
Kosher salt to taste
@ Break brittle into small, bite-size pieces.
Foie gras torchon, frozen 400 g 100% @ Place two tablespoons of quartered lychees in bottom of each of eight serving bowls.
see previous page
® Top lychees with tablespoon of Rieslinggelee.
® Top gelee with tablespoon of cracked brittle.
@ Grate mound of frozen foie gras with Microplane onto each bowl, as generously as desired.
from page 3T77

DUCK LEG CONFIT WITH POMMES SARLADAISES Yieidsi.4kg{fourportions)

ADAPTED FROM PAUFA WOFFERT

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Moulard duck legs 1.6 kg 100% ® Pack cure evenly onto duck legs.
(four legs) @ Vacuum seal.
Confit cure mix 288 g 18% © Refrigerate for 10 h.
see next page
@ Rinse off cure, and blot legs until completely dry.
Rendered duck fat 80 g 5% © Vacuum seal legs individually with 20 g of fat each.
© Cook sous vide in 82 “C /180 °F bath for 8 h.
@ Cool quickly in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
Waxy potato, sliced 160 g 10% ® Vacuum seal together.
5 mm / in thick and cut ® Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath until just tender, 20-25 min.
into 3 cm /13^6 in coins
@ Warm duck legs in 80 °C/ 176 °F bath for 12 min.
Water 30 g 1.9%
® Brown legs in skillet, skin side down, until skin is crisp, about 4 min.
Rendered duck fat 20 g 1.25%
@ Garnish crisped legs with potatoes.
Garlic, thinly sliced 5g 0.3%
Salt 1.4g 0.09%
Thyme leaves 0.5 g 0.03%
from page 3178

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 105

CONFITCURE MIX Yields 1.1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Koshersalt 1 kg 100% @ Combine, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

Coriander seeds, toasted 100 g 10% @ Use to cure poultry and game.
Garlic cloves, mashed 11 g 1.1%
Star anise, finely crushed 7g 0.7%

Orange zest, finely grated 5g 0.5%

Thyme leaves 2g 0.2%

Black peppercorns, 0.8 g 0.08%

coarsely crushed
Bay leaves, thinly sliced 0.4 g 0.04%
from page 3-179

MISO-CURED BLACK COD INSPIRED» BY NOBU MATSUHISA Yields500g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White miso 500 g 125% @ Combine to make cure.

Mirin 100 g 25%

Sake 80 g 20%
Shoyu 35 g 8.75%
White soy sauce 25 g 6.25%
Yuzu zest, finely grated 8g 2%

Lime zest, finely grated 5g 1.25%

Lemon zest, finely grated 3g 0.75%
Black cod fillet, skin on. 400 g 100% (D Cut into four 100 g portions.
3.25 cm / I'/i in thick @ Spread cure overall surfaces offish.
@ Vacuum seal individually.
® Refrigerate for 12 h.
® Remove from bags, and wipe off excess cure.
Unsalted butter 60 g 15% @ Vacuum seal each portion with 15 g of butter.
® Cook sous vide in 49 °C /120 "F bath to core
temperature of 48 °C /118 °F, about 20 min.

Toasted sesame seeds 15 g 3.75% ® Blend in spice grinderto fine powder.

Ginger powder 4g 1%
N-ZorbitM 4g 1%
(National Starch brand)
Clarified unsalted butter 80 g 20% @ Dust cooked fish generously with sesame powder.
® Brown in very hot butter until just golden, about 45 s.
Daikon, finejulienne 40 g 10% ©Toss together.
Springonion, finejulienne 40 g 10% ® Garnish each fish portion.
Sesame oil to taste
White soy sauce to taste
Yuzu juice to taste
from page 3-179

106 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

GRAPEFRUIT-CURED SALMON Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Salmon belly, 2.5 cm / 400 g 100% ® Trim, and remove skin.

1 in thick @ Set salmon aside.

Salt 60 g 15% © Blend to form dry cure.

Sugar 40 g 10% @ Rub cure onto salmon to completely cover.

Young Douglas fir buds 30 g 7.5% © Vacuum seal rubbed salmon.

Vodka 15g 3.75% © Refrigerate salmon for 12 h to cure.

Pink grapefruit zest, 5g 1.25% © Remove cured salmon from bag.

finely grated Firtree buds can be picked from
© Rinse cure off with water, and dry.
early May through mid-June. You
Juniper berries, crushed 4g 1% © Vacuum seal, and refrigerate salmon to store.
can omit them if they are not
Black peppercorns, 2g 0.5%
available-the taste will be subtly
finely ground different but still good.
Douglas fir essential oil 0.1 g 0.025%

Pink grapefruit 0.1 g 0.025%

essential oil
from page 3-180

HOUSE-CURED BACON Yields 3.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Salt lOOg 2.5% © Mix to make cure.

Sugar 72 g 1.8%

InstaCureNo. 1 24 g 0.6%

Fermento 7g 0.175%

Black peppercorns, 4g 0.1%

coarsely ground
Coriander seeds, toasted, 4g 0.1%
finely ground
Mace, finely ground 4g 0.1%

Star anise, 4g 0.1%

coarsely ground
Sodium erythorbate 2-2 g 0.055%

Pork belly, bone in 4 kg 100% @ Rub cure thoroughly on surface of meat.

@ Let sit 10 min so that spices adhere.
@ Pack remaining cure around meat.

© Vacuum seal.
© Refrigerate fori wk, turning over once a day.
@ Brush away cure from surface of meat.
® Hang cleaned meat on meat hook, and refrigerate uncovered for 1 wk in well-ventilated area
so that cure can permeate all areas evenly.
© Smoke in 77 ”0/170 °F smoker with 60% relative humidity for 7 h (wet-bulb temperature:
65'’C/150°F).
® Chill for 12 h before using.

from page 3182

Although we use Fermento culture

for flavor, this is a cured, rather than
a fermented, bacon.

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 107

MICROWAVED BEEF JERKY Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef flank steak 500 g 100% ©Cut with grain into even, rectangular strips 5 mm //^6 in thick, and set aside.

Soy sauce 125 g 25% @ Combine.

Fish sauce 85 g 17% @ Place meat strips in marinade.

Sugar 14g 2.8% @ Vacuum seal together, and refrigerate for 48 h.

Salt 5.3 g 1.06% © Drain.

® Place strips on paper towel-lined tray; pat strips dry.

@ Lay three strips in center of microwavable plate.

® Microwave at 50% power fori min, and flip strips over. Repeat four more times for total
cookingtime of5 min, and remove jerky.
® Repeat steps 7 and 8 with remaining strips, always working with batches of three.
from page 3-184

To dehydrate the jerky without a microwave, dry the marinated beef strips at
60 °C /140 °F until leathery, 10-12 h.

CRISPY BEEF STRANDS Yields 80 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef flank steak 200 g 100% © Cut with grain into even, rectangular strips, 5 mm / 14 in thick, and reserve.

Soy sauce 50 g 25% @ Combine, and place meat strips in marinade.

Fish sauce 34 g 17% © Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 48 h.

Sugar 5.5 g 2.8% ® Drain.

© Microwave strips at full power (800 W) until dry, 3-5 min.
Salt 2g 1%
® Pull strips apart, strand by strand.

Canola oil as needed @ Fry strands in 180 °C/ 355 °F oil until dry.

® Drain.
@ Reserve in airtight container with silica packets.

from page 5-44

CRISPY BEEF AND SHALLOT SALAD Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Red shallots, sliced 50 g 100% © Deep-fry shallot slices in 170 °C / 340 °F oil until dry and golden.
1 mm/Yie in thick @ Drain on papertowels.
Canola oil as needed

Salt as needed © Season shallot slices.

© Reserve in airtight container with silica packets.

Sweet, sour, and savory lOOg 200% ® Warm together, stirring to dissolve sugar and reserve.
glaze
see page 5-44
Palm sugar 18g 36%

Crispy beef strands, 80 g 160% ® Toss together with fried shallots.

warmed
@ Fold warm glaze in carefully to taste.
see above
Cilantro stems, cut into 3g 6%
^ cm /Ya in lengths
Scallion, finejulienne 2g 4%

Small cilantro leaves 2g 4%

Small mint leaves 2g 4%

Small Thai basil leaves 2g 4%

Lime zest, finejulienne 1.5g 3%

Bird's eye chili, seeded 1g 2%
and sliced paper-thin
Lime juice to taste © Season.
Salt to taste
from page 5-47

108 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

JUNIPER BRINE Yields 600 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEINC PROCEDURE

Water 500 g 100% ® Combine.
Juniper berries, crushed 60 g 12% @ Bring to boil, to dissolve salt fully.
Salt 35 g 7% @ Cool, and infuse refrigerated for 12 h.
Corianderseeds 12 g 2.4% ® Strain.
Lemon zest, grated 4g 0.8%
Angelica root, sliced 3.2 g 0.64%
Bitter orange zest, grated 2.5 g 0.5%
Malt, roasted 2g 0.4%
Hops 0.8 g 0.16%
Cinnamon stick 0.4 g 0.08%
Ginger, minced 0.4 g 0.08%
Allspice berry 0.25 g 0.05%
from page 5-36

SOUS VIDE DUCK HAM ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 750 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Salt 18g 1.2% ® Combine to make cure.
Insta Cure No. 1 7.5 g 0.5%
Duck thighs, boneless 1.5 kg 100% @ Coat duck thighs with cure.
and skinless
Water, warm 100 g 6.7% @ Combine to prepare slurry.
Activa CS or RM 25 g 1.7% ® Brush cured duck thighs with slurry.
see page 3-250 (25%)* © Place duck thighs in terrine.
® Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate terrine forl2 h.
® Cook sous vide in 69 °C /156 °F bath for 6 h.
@ Top bagged terrine with weight to flatten.
@ Refrigerate until cool.
® Freeze and slice duck ham into sheets 1 mm / '/g in thick on meat slicer.
from page 5-87 *{% of total weight of water)

FOIE GRAS AND HAZELNUT GANACHE Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cognac 60 g 20% @ Reduce to 20 g and reserve.
Sauternes 30 g 10%
Sweet onions, lOOg 33% @ Sweat until tender without coloring, about 10 min.
finely minced
Rendered duck fat 15 g 5%
Raw duck foie gras 300 g 100% @ Combine alcohol reduction, onions and remaining ingredients, and puree until smooth.
Roasted hazelnut butter 100 g 33% @ Pass through fine sieve.
Unsalted butter 50 g 16.7% ® Freeze in Pacojet beaker, and reserve.
Roasted hazelnut oil 25 g 8.3% ® To serve, Pacotize once and form into quenelles. Serve with toasted bread.
Salt 5g 1.7%
(/%)*
Insta Cure No. 1 3.25 g 1.08%
(0.7%)*
from page 5-128 *{% of total weight offoie gras, hazelnut butter, unsalted butter, and hazelnut oil)

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 109

FLUKE CURED IN KOMBU ADAPTED FROM KYLE CONNAUGHTON Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Dry kombu sheets, about eight sheets @ Soak in cold water until fully hydrated, about 20 min.
20 cm / 8 in long
Fluke fillets, 1.5 cm / Yi in 400 g 100%
thick, skinned and side fin (four whole
muscle removed fillets)
Salt 40 g 10% @ Grind together to fine powder.

Kombu powderfstore- 8g 2% @ Dust evenly over one side of fillets.

bought) ® Lay fillets, seasoned side down, on kombu sheets.
Sugar 8g 2% ® Dust evenly with remaining salt, and cover with second sheet of kombu.

® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate fori h to cure surface.

@ Remove fillets from cure, pat dry, and vacuum seal.

Sous vide ponzu ® To serve, slice fluke thinly. Serve ponzu on side.
see page 22
from page 3-181

BLACKSTRAP MOLASSES COUNTRY HAM Yields 6 kg

ADAPTED FROM Ml CHAFF RUHLMAN AND BRIAN POLCYN

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Kosher salt 1.3 kg 100% ® Combine.

InstaCure No. 2 340 g 26%

(or DQ Curing Salt)
Dark brown sugar 450 g 35% @ Add to salt blend, and stirtogether.

Blackstrap molasses 617 g 47%

Dark rum 210 g 16%

Ginger, grated or minced lOg 0.8%
Juniper berries, crushed 8g 0.6%

Cayenne pepper 3g 0.2%

Coriander seeds, black, Ig 0.08%

toasted and ground
Fresh ham, skin on. 7 kg 540% @ Rub cure all over ham, applying more to area around exposed bone.
aitchbone removed @ Put in nonreactive container large enough for ham and for liquid that cure will draw out.
@ Place 7 kg of weight on ham, using platter or board with weights on top.
® Refrigerate forl2-15 d (1 d per V2 kg). Turn ham; after 6 d, redistribute cure as necessary.

@ Remove ham from refrigerator, and rinse off cure under cold water.
® Soak in cold waterfor 8 h to remove residual surface salt.
® Set ham on rack, and refrigerate uncovered for 8 h.
@ Cold-smoke ham at 15 °C/ 60 °Ffor 18 h.
@ Hang ham to dry in cool, dark place, ideally at 15 °C/ 60 °F with 65%-75% relative humidity,
for 7 wk.

from page 3-183

no VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

CURED BEEF TENDERLOIN "BRESAOLA STYLE" Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef tenderloin (or 1 kg 100% ® Remove silver skin, and trim tapered end for even curing.
venison tenderloin), @ Set aside.
5 cm /2 in thick
Espresso roast coffee. 50 g 5% @ Grind togetherto medium coarse.
ground ® Pack all over surface of tenderloin, and vacuum seal.
Salt 40 g 4% ® If making cured carpaccio, refrigerate fori wk. Flip bag every 2 d to ensure even curing.
Sugar 40 g 4% © Rinse, and pat dry.
Cocoa nibs 16g 1.75% @ Slice thinly, and pound to desired thickness; orfreeze, and slice paperthin on meat sheer.
Black pepper lOg 1% ® If making true bresaola, cure for3 wk.
Juniper berries lOg 1%
® Rinse, and pat dry.
Insta Cure No. 2 2g 0.2%
@ Tie with butcher's twine, and hang for minimum of 1 wk and up to 1 mo in refrigerator.
Hanging time determines dryness of final texture.
® Slice thinly.
Fermented black garlic 80 g 8% @ Blend until smooth, and pass through fine sieve.
(store-bought) ® Verify seasoning.
Extra-virgin olive oil 40 g 4%
Lemon juice 15 g 1.5%
White balsamic 13 g 1.3%
Salt to taste
Wild arugula 50 g 5% @ Spoon small amount of fermented garlic paste across each plate.
Wild blackberries, halved 30 g 3% ® Arrange slices of cured carpaccio or bresaola on each plate.

Celery stalk, peeled and 25 g 2.5% @ Garnish with celery slices, arugula, blackberries, and celery leaves.
thinly sliced ® Season with salt, olive oil, and lemon juice.
Celery leaves lOg 1%
Lemon juice to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
Flaky sea salt to taste
from page 3185

SEA URCHIN BOTTARGA vieidsisog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Sea urchin tongues (gonads) 200 g 100%

Salt 500 g 250%

Beeswax 500 g 250%

from page 3-186

© Pass sea urchin tongues through fine sieve.

@ Pipe into sous vide bag molded into shape offish roe sac, which is a thin, tapered triangle.
@ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 64 °C/147°F bath for 50 min. Leave in bag, and chill in ice-water bath until
hardened, about20 min.
@ Pack cooked sea urchin in salt. Ensure all sides are completely covered, and refrigerate forl2 h.

® Remove from cure. Rinse, and pat dry on paper towels.

® Wrap cured sea urchin in cheesecloth. Tie both ends of cheesecloth with butcher's twine. Hang in refrigerator for
2 mo to yield sliceable, fudge-like consistency, or for 3 mo to make dry enough to grate.
@ Melt beeswax, and dip dried sea urchin carefully into wax to coat completely.

® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 111

SALTED HALIBUT Yields 1.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Salt 750 g 37.5% ® Mix together to form cure.
Sugar 150 g 7.5%
Lemon zest, finely grated 15g 0.75%
Lime zest, finely grated lOg 0.5%
Halibut fillet, skin on, cut 2 kg 100% ©Rub cure on strips to cover completely.
into strips 5 cm / 2 in thick ® Vacuum seal strips.
@ Refrigerate for 48 h,

® Remove from bag, and rinse, discarding cure and

rendered juices.
® Wrap single layer of cheesecloth around each cured
strip. For a recipe for brandade, see below.
For a lutefisk recipe, see page 114.
@ Tie both ends of cheesecloth with butcher's twine.
® Hang wrapped fish in refrigerator for 15 d to air-dry.
® Remove from cheesecloth.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate indefinitely until needed.
@ To serve, soak in water or milk for 48 h, refrigerated,
changing soaking liquid every 12 h.
@ Use for making brandade or lutefisk.
from page 3T87

HALIBUT BRANDADE Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk as needed ® Soak halibut in milk, refrigerated, for 12 h.
Salted halibut 160g 100% @ Drain fish, and discard milk.
optional, see above
@ Repeat steps 1 and 2 three more times, for total soaking time of 48 h. Reserve 20 g of liquid
from final soaking.
Garlic, sliced and 25 g 16% @ Vacuum seal halibut, reserved soaking liquid, and garlic together.
blanched twice
® Cook sous vide in 58 °C /135 "F bath to core temperature of 57 °C /133 °F, about 20 min. Hold
attemperature forl5 min.
® Pulse in food processor until finely shredded.
Water 1 kg 625% @ Vacuum seal potatoes with water in thin, even layer.
Yukon Gold orotherwaxy 250 g 156% ® Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for 45 min.
potatoes, thinly sliced
® Drain potatoes, and pass through ricer.
Extra virgin olive oil 90 g 56% ® Mix into potatoes.
@ Pass through fine sieve.

@ Fold sieved potatoes into shredded halibut mixture.

Salt to taste @ Warm brandade and season.
Italian basil, julienne to taste @ Garnish.
Roasted hazelnut oil to taste

from page 5T52

112 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SEAFOOD PAPER ADAPTED FROM CARLO CRACCO Yields 80 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White fish 250 g 100% © Blend to fine puree in food processor or Pacojet, if available.
(prawns, scallops, or @ Pass through fine sieve.
squid may be substituted) @ Cast fish orshellfish puree paper-thin (1 mm / '/n in thick) onto silicone baking mat.
Squid ink (optional) 1.25 g 0.5%
@ Cover with anothersilicone baking mat.
© Roll out evenly to 0.5 mm 7/64 in with rolling pin.
@ Dehydrate at 70 °C/158 °F until sheets are dry but still flexible, about 15 min.
@ Remove top silicone mat, and return to dehydrator or oven until surface of sheet is leathery,
about3 min.
® Cutto desired dimensions, and reserve.
from page 3-188

BACON CHIPS WITH BUTTERSCOTCH, APPLE, AND THYME Yieldsleog(fourportions)

ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cured bacon strips, lOOg 100% © Place bacon on dehydrator tray.
10 cm /4 in longand @ Dehydrate at 80 °C/175 °F for 3 h.
2 mm / '/i6 in thick @ Store dehydrated bacon chips in airtight container.
Granny Smith apples, 400 g 400% @ Place on tray lined with silicone mat.
halved and cored © Roast in 190 °C/375 °F oven for30 min.
© Cool.
© Scoop out flesh from skins.
® Puree flesh in blender.
© Pass through chinois.
® Spray acetate sheet with nonstick cooking spray, and wipe off excess liquid.
® Spread puree with palette knife in layer 2 mm / '/is in thick.
@ Dehydrate at 70 °C/ 160°Ffor45 min.
@ Cut resulting apple leather into strips, 3 mm by 10 cm / 'A in by 4 in.
@ Reserve.
Sugar 250 g 250% ® Whisk together in small pot, and cook to 190 °C / 375 °F to make caramel.
Light corn syrup 150 g 150%
Heavy cream 375 g 375% ® Whisk into caramel to make butterscotch.
@ Heat to 115 “C/240 °F.
@ Pour onto silicone mat, and cool.
® Transfer to pastry bag.
@ Pipe dots of butterscotch onto each bacon chip, starting 2.5 cm / 1 in from top of strip, and
leaving 6 mm / 'A in between dots.
@ Wind six apple leatherstrips around each bacon chip, using butterscotch as glue.

Black pepper to taste @ Season.

Thyme leaves to taste @ Attach to bacon chips usingsmall amount of butterscotch.
from page 3T89

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 113

Instead of flank steak, thin slices of
KALBI FLANK STEAK Yields 1 kg

beef short ribs can be used. INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Flank steak, trimmed 1 kg 333% ® Reserve.
Water 300 g 100% @ Combine, and stir until sugar is dissolved.
The pH level ofthe marinade
Sugar 175 g 58.5% @ Vacuum seal steak with marinade.
should be around 4.5.
Light soy sauce 150 g 50% @ Marinate in refrigerator for 5 d.
Fish sauce 75 g 25% © Remove steak from marinade, and vacuum seal again.
Depending on how tenderyou like Apple juice (fresh) 50 g 16.5% © Cook sous vide in 54 °C/129 °F bath fori h.
your flank steak, the cooking time
Toasted sesame oil 30 g 10% @ Cool.
can be increased to 24 hours.
Mirin 23 g 7.5% ® Trim steak to desired size, and sear both sides quickly.
Scallions, thinly sliced 20 g 6.5%
Garlic, crushed lOg 3.5%
Rice vinegar lOg 3.5%
Korean chili flakes 5g 1.5%
Black pepper, coarsely 3g 1%
Jaccarding the steak improves its
ground
tenderness directly and, if done
before marinating, also makes the Kimchi as desired ® Slice, and serve with kimchi, butter lettuce and shiso
see page 175 leaves, kochujang paste, and other banchan (Korean
marinade work better. Vacuum
tumblingfor30 minutes reduces side dishes).
marination time greatly. For more from page 3-199
on Jaccarding, see page 3-50; for
vacuum tumbling, see page 3 4 74.
LUTEFISK Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Halibut 1 kg 100% @ Remove skin, and cut away thin ends.
(one large piece)
Water 3.5 kg 350% @ Whisk water and sodium hydroxide together until
Sodium hydroxide 25 g 2.5% dissolved to make brine.
(0./%)* © Place fish in brine, and refrigerate for24 h.
Salt 25 g 2.5% ® Drain fish, and discard brine.
Lutefisk is an acquired taste and (0.7%)*
® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 24 h to allow brine to
texture, but it has been a Scandina¬
equilibrate through fish.
vian delicacy for many centuries.
© Remove from bag, cover in fresh water, and soak
The dimensions ofthe fish are refrigerated for48 h.
important for a good final result. © Change water, and soak again for 48 h, refrigerated.
The fish should be uniform in size ® Drain.
and at least 4 cm /11/2 in thick for
® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate to store indefinitely.
the briningtime to be accurate.
Smaller pieces offish require some Unsalted butter 100 g 10% @ To serve, vacuum seal with fish.
experimentation with briningtime. ® Cook sous vide in 50 °C/ 122 °F bath for 45 min.
If making with salted halibut or cod, Salt to taste @ Season.
omit salt from brine.
from page 3-200 *(% of weight of water)

114 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 Yields 600 g (four portions)
YAKITORl
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Mirin 400 g 100% ©Whisk together, and bringsoy sauce mixture to simmer.

Honey (clear) 220 g 55%

Light soy sauce 200 g 50%

(no vinegar added)
Sake (dry) 200 g 50%

Ginger juice (fresh) lOg 2.5%

Pineapple rind and flesh, 550 g 137.5% © Pour hot soy sauce mixture over pineapple cubes, and cool completely.

cubed © Vacuum seal, and macerate 12 h, refrigerated.

Rice vinegar 50 g 12.5% @ Strain yakitori sauce.

Salt 30 g 7.5% © Season with vinegar and salt, and reserve.

Chicken skin 200 g 50% © Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath for 12 h.
@ Drain from cooking juices, pat dry, and cool.
® Cut cooked skin into strips 2.5 cm by 12.5 cm /1 in by 5 in.
@ Thread onto soaked bamboo skewers, and reserve.

Chicken oysters orthigh 200 g 50% @ Combine in bottom of 1 1 whipping siphon to pressure-marinate.
meat cut into 2.5 cm/1 in ® Charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges, shake, and refrigerate for 20 min.
pieces, skinless @ Vent pressure, remove pieces from siphon, and skewer individually.
Yakitori sauce, 30 g 7.5%
from above
Chicken thigh meat, 400 g 100% ® Stirtogether until all components are evenly distributed.
coarse ground @ Make four meatballs 5 cm / 1 in. in diameter by using plastic wrap to shape tightly.

Tokyo negi (Japanese 45 g 11.25% @ Skewer meatballs individually.

leek), finely minced @ Blanch in 190°C/375 °F oil for 5 s to set shape of meatball.
Egg white 35 g 8.75%
@ Reserve.
Yakitori sauce, 20 g 5%
from above
Toasted sesame oil lOg 2.5%

Young ginger, finely 6g 1.5%

minced
Salt 4g 1%

Sansho pepper, ground Ig 0.25%

Yakitori sauce, 200 g 50% @ Reduce to 65 g (light syrup), about 15 min. Cool and reserve.

from above
Japanese charcoal as needed ® Burn coals in bottom ofhibacbi or similar grill until coals are white.
@ Set grill screen on top of hot coals, and grill marinated chicken oysters and meatballs for
2-3 min on each side.
© Remove from heat, and brush all pieces with thin layer of yakitori glaze.
@ Deep-fry skewered chicken skin in 190 “C / 375 °F oil for 2 min until very crispy and lightly
puffed.
@ Drain from oil, and brush with thin layer ofyakitori glaze.
@ Grill glazed chicken oyster, meatball, and skin skewers for 1 min on each side.

@ Remove from heat, brush meatball with final layer of glaze, and serve.

from page 3-201

For a step-by-step procedure for pressure-marinating,

see page 3-207.

115
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
TUNA RIBBONS WITH GINGER MARINADE Yields 600 g (eight portions)
ADAPTED FROM JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lime juice lOOg 33% © Vacuum seal together.
Sugar 80 g 27% @ Cook sous vide in 55 °C/131 °F bath for 11/2 h.
Makrud (kaffir) lime 20 g 6.5% @ Cool lime syrup completely.
leaves, thinly sliced
@ Strain.

® Measure 40 g of syrup, and reserve.

Ginger, peeled, thinly 60 g 20% ® Saute in dry pan until slightly charred, about 5 min.
sliced
Rice vinegar 50 g 17% @ Blend with ginger and reserved lime syrup until smooth.
White soy sauce 40 g 13.5% ® Reserve ginger marinade.
Shoyu 36 g 12%
Grapeseed oil 30 g 10%
Avocado, peeled and lOOg 33% ® Season avocado slices, and arrange in serving bowls.
thinly sliced
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
Tuna (sashimi-quality), 300 g 100% @ Gently combine tuna with radish slices, chili oil, and lime leaves.
cut into thin, spaghetti-like
® Top each avocado portion with spoonful of tuna mixture.
ribbons
® Pour ginger marinade around bowls, and serve.
Breakfast radish, sliced 50 g 17%
very thinly on mandoline
Spiced chili oil 25 g 8.5%
see page 29

Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf, 5g 1.5%

fine julienne
from page 3-202

11 6 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 fluke CEVICHE ADAPTED FROM ERIC RIPERT
Yields 500 g (four to eight portions)
INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fluke fillet (sushi-quality) 400 g 100% ® Slice on bias into segments, 1.75 cm by 5 cm / % in by 2 in.
@ Lay slices in single layer on large plate.
@ Cover with plastic wrap.
@ Refrigerate.
Fluke fillet, diced 80 g 20% (5) Combine.
Lemon juice (fresh) 30 g 7.5% ® Cover.
Lime juice (fresh) 30 g 7.5% @ Refrigerate fori h to macerate.
Red onion, sliced 20 g 5%
® Strain through fine sieve, and reserve 50 g of fluke juice.
(quarter of onion)
Sugar 13 g 3.25%
Fine sea salt 10.5 g 2.5%
Rendered fluke juice, 50 g 12.5% (S) Combine in bowl to make marinade.
from above

Red onion, julienne 16g 4%

Extra-virgin olive oil 12g 3%
Cilantro, julienne lOg 2.5%
Tomato, blanched, lOg 2.5%
peeled, and finely diced
Jalapefio pepper, minced 4g 1%
Basil, julienne 2.5 g 0.5%
Mint, julienne 1-2 g 0.3%
Lemon-infused olive oil to taste
Espelette pepper to taste (jA) Season fluke slices.
Salt to taste
® Cover slices with marinade, and allow to stand for 2-5 min, depending on desired firmness.
® To serve, divide ceviche among foursmall bowls.
® Garnish with more pepper, and serve immediately.
Trom page j zuj ---

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 117

 CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 24 g 5% © Pour Eiot water over saffron tEireads.

Saffron tEireads 0.5 g 0.1% @ Cover, steep for 10 min, and tEien strain water, and
reserve.

Coriander seeds, toasted 1% @ Toast spices in dry skillet or 170 °C / 340 °F oven until
5g
1% aromatic.
Cumin seeds, toasted 5g
Cinnamon, toasted 0.2% @ Cool.
Ig
0.2% ® Grind spices to fine powder.
Clove, toasted Ig
® Reserve.

Greek-style strained 250 g 50% ©Blend together to fine paste.

For better marinade penetration,
yogurt (plain, full fat) @ Add spice powder and saffron-infused water to make
use a Jaccard tenderizer after
Neutral oil lOOg 20% marinade.
slathering tEie cEiicken with the
marinade, but be careful not to Shallots, thinly sliced 25 g 5% ® Reserve 50 g for later use.
break the blades on the chicken Ginger, fine paste 24 g 4.8%
bones. lOg 2%
Garlic, fine paste
Kashmiri chili lOg 2%

Annatto seeds 8g 1.5%

Kashmiri chili punctuates a dish Green Thai chili, finely 5g 1%
with bright red colorand is only chopped
mildly hot. Bay leaves, fine julienne 0.2%
Ig
Chicken breast, skinned 500 g 100% @ Clean, and trim off any excess fat.

Chicken thigh, boneless 500 g 100% @ Cut thighs and breasts into total of eight pieces,
and skinned 125 geach.

Marinade, from above 200 g 40% @ Slice three cuts across thick side of each thigh for
marinade to penetrate.
@ Place all chicken pieces in 200 g of marinade, and toss
to coat thoroughly.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 12 h.

Clarified unsalted butter 40 g 8% @ Remove chicken from marinade.

® Vacuum seal breasts and thighs in two separate bags
with 20 g each of clarified butter.
® Cook breasts sous vide in 60 °C / 140 °F bath for 2 h.
@ Cook thighs sous vide in 65 °C / 149 "F bath for 11/2 h.

Marinade, from above 50 g 10% ©Simmerfor5 min.

@ Cool at room temperature.
@ Brush overcooked chicken.

Clarified butter as needed @ Heat thin film of clarified butter over high heat. Sear
chicken pieces, skin side only, until crisp, about 90 s.
Remove from pan.

Lime juice 100 g 20% @ Combine, and season with salt.

Shallots, finely sliced 50 g 10%

Green chili, finely sliced 15 g 3%

Salt to taste

Cilantro, fine julienne to taste @ Garnish chicken with lime dressing, cilantro, and mint.

Mint, fine julienne to taste

from page 3 204

118 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 GONG BAO CHICKEN ADAPTED FROM FUCHSIA DUNFOP Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken breast, boneless 400 g 100% ® Cut into 1.5 cm/Ys in strips.
@ Cut strips into small cubes, and reserve.
Known as kung pao chicken to
Water 50 g 12.5% @ Whisk together. millions of American fans of
Light soy sauce lOg 2.5% ©Mix into chicken, taking care to coat all pieces evenly. Chinese food, this is a classic dish.
Potato starch 1.75% The alkaline marinade, which
7g ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate forl2 h to marinate.
includes baking soda, tenderizes
Shaoxing wine 5g 1.25% ® Remove chicken from marinade, and reserve.
the chicken and also promotes the
Baking soda Ig 0.25% Maillard reaction when the chicken
White chicken stock 20 g 5% @ Whisk together until everything is incorporated. cooks.
see page 11
® Reserve resulting sauce.
Sugar 15 g 3.75% The baking soda marinade tech-
Chinkiang vinegar 12 g 3% nique works beautifully with other
lean cuts of meats, such as pork and
Toasted sesame oil 5g 1.25%
beeftenderloin.
Dark soy sauce 4g 1%
Light soy sauce 4g 1%
Potato starch Ig 0.25%
Neutral oil 5g 1.25% ® Heat wok, and add oil.
Dried red chili pepper 8g 2% @ Add chili and pepperwhen oil is about to smoke.
Sichuan peppercorns 8g 2% ® Stir-fry until crisp and fragrant.
(whole)
@ Add marinated chicken, and fry on high flame for
aboutS min.
Scallions, whites only, 24 g 6% @ Add to wok, and stir-fry until chicken is cooked, about
thinly sliced 2 min.
Garlic, thinly sliced 18 g 4.5% @ Add sauce, and cook until thick, about 45 s.
Ginger, thinly sliced 18g 4.5%
Peanuts, blanched and 75 g 19% @ Roast peanuts inl70°C/340°F oven until colored
peeled golden brown, or use pressure-cooked fried peanuts
Salt to taste (see page 5-65).

® Add peanuts, and adjust seasoning.

from page 3-205

BEETJUICE- FED OYSTERS adapted FROM DAVE ARNOLD AND NILS NOREN Yields 12 oysters

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Kusshi oysters 12 oysters @ Rinse oysters thoroughly to remove any grit.
@ Arrange, upright and evenly layered, in metal container.
Red beet juice 1.25 kg 100% @ Blend.
(from 2 kg of
@ Strain juice through fine (25 micron / #500) sieve.
beets)
©Pour over oysters to cover.
Aquarium salt 32.5 g 2.6%
® Seal containertightly with lid.

@ Refrigerate for 48 h. Do not disturb, or oysters will not feed on juice.

from page 3-206

Using a very fine sieve to strain the juice is essential to prevent the oysters
from suffocating on larger particles.

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 119

HOT- AND COLD-SMOKED MEATS AND SEAEOOD

@ Select a recipe from the table below, and prepare the meat as indicated. @ Cook sous vide or otherwise. Some smoked foods, such as hams or
See the referenced pages for further instructions. smoked salmon, are meant to be consumed raw after smoking.
@ Smoke. Suggested smokingtemperatures, humidities, and times are listed @ Season and finish. Many barbecued items are seared briefly at high heat
in the table. Not all smokers permit humidity control, but an improvised or glazed. Finish by adding spices, dry rubs, or sauces.
wet-bulb thermometer will help (see page 3-211). Adjust the smoking time
to impart more or less smoke flavor.

Best Bets for Smoking Meats

Smoke
Dry-bulb Wet-bulb
__ temperature temperature Relative Time
Ingredient Method See page (°C) (°F) (“d (°F) humidity (h) Cook See page
Cold-smoked
pork, Boston butt n/a 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 yes 86
pork ribs n/a 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 yes 5-66
foie gras, torchon cure 3-176 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 optional 96
ham cure 3-183 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 optional 86
salmon (Scottish) cure 3-256 10 50 6.5 44 70% 24 no
pork cheek brine 3-168 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 yes 86,5-35
pork chop brine 3-168 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 yes 68
sablefish, black cod brine 76 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 optional 5-170
whitefish brine 3-168 10 50 6.5 44 60% 24 yes 74
beef fillet, raw n/a 10 50 8 46 80% 24 yes 68
caviar and fish roe n/a 10 50 8 46 80% 12 no
oyster n/a 10 50 8 46 80% 24 optional 5-205
foie gras, raw n/a 25 77 18 64 50% 4 no
salmon, Russian style cure 3-168 25 77 18 64 50% 4 no
chicken, whole brine injected 3-168 25 77 18 64 50% 4 yes 3,71
pork chop brine 3-168 25 77 18 64 50% 4 yes 68
Hot-smoked
beef fillet, cured cure 3-185 52 126 48 118 80% 12 no
beef cheek pastrami brine 3-257 77 171 62 144 50% 4 yes 121
beef short ribs n/a 77 171 66 151 60% 4 yes 90
brisket pastrami brine 3-257 77 171 62 144 50% 7 yes 86
pork belly (for bacon) cure 3-182 77 171 66 151 60% 7 optional 86
beef tongue brine injected 3-168 77 171 66 151 60% 4 yes 86
chicken, whole brine injected 3-168 77 171 66 151 60% 4 optional 71,122
beef flatiron n/a 60 140 55 131 77% 4 yes 86,89
pork ribs n/a 65 149 57 135 65% 7 yes 86,88
pork butt n/a 65 149 57 135 65% 7 yes 86,5-66
sausage n/a 52 126 48 118 80% 12 yes 128,130
from page 3-210

120 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

RUSSIAN SMOKED SALMON Yields 1.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Salt 225 g 15% @ Combine to make cure.
For lox-style salmon, use a 3% salt
Sugar 120 g 8% and 1.5% sugar rub (with weights
Salmon fillet, whole side, 1.5 kg 100% @ Pack evenly onto both sides offish. relative to the weight of the fish),
skin on, pin bones and vacuum seal the fish refriger¬
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate fish for 12 h to cure.
removed ated for 48 h.
@ Rinse off cure from surface of fish.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for another 24 h to allow ForScottish-style salmon, use a
the salt to fully diffuse through the meat. 3.5% salt rub, and vacuum seal
@ Smoke at 25 °C/77 "F with 60% relative humidity refrigerated for 36 h. Follow the
for4 h. remaining steps described in the

@ Vacuum seal. recipe for both styles.

@ Refrigerate until use.

from page 3-212

BEEF CHEEK PASTRAMI Yields 1 kg

INSPIRED BY JOHN PAUL CARMONA AND DAVID KINCH

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Food critic Jeffrey Steingarten (see

page 1-65) likes to say that New York
Wagyu beef cheeks, 1 kg 100% @ Trim off any silverskin and excess fat.
City has its own local barbecue
cleaned (about 4 cheeks)
tradition: the pastrami prepared by
Water 2.25 kg 225% @ Boil 500 g of water with sugar and salts to dissolve. the city's many Jewish delicates¬
Brown sugar 145 g 14.5% @ Remove brine from heat, add remaining water, and sens. The most famous places for
Salt 75 g 7.5% cool. pastrami are Carnegie Deli in
Midtown and Katz's Deli in the
Insta Cure No. 1 15 8 1.5%
Lower East Side.
Coriander seeds, toasted 3.5 g 0.35% @ Combine aromatics with cooled brine.
Black peppercorns 2.5g 0.25% ® Vacuum seal beef cheeks with chilled brine.
Mustard powder Pastrami might seem quite different
2.5 g 0.25% ® Refrigerate for 72 h.
than southern barbecue, but it
Pink peppercorns 2g 0.2% @ Remove cheeks from brine, and reserve brine.
certainly qualifies as part ofthat
Cinnamon stick, toasted Ig 0.1% ® Pat dry cheeks. cuisine: cured and spiced meatthat
and crushed is smoked and then cooked low
@ Reserve.
Fennel seeds Ig 0.1% and slow.
Cloves (whole) 0.5 g 0.05%
Red pepperflakes 0.25 g 0.025%
Bay leaf 0.2 g 0.02%
Juniper berries 75 g 7.5% ® Grind together coarsely in coffee grinderto make
Sugar 75 g 7.5% spice rub. This pastrami recipe also works well
Black peppercorns 72 g 7.2% ® Rub cheeks with 50 g (5% of their weight) of spice rub. with other cuts of meat. Simply use

@ Smoke for 4 h at 77 °C/171 “F. the table below to adjust the brining
Coriander seeds, toasted 42 g 4.2%
time, and see page 86 for cooking
Garlic powder lOg 1% @ Boil reserved brine, and skim off surface foam.
times and temperatures.
Salt lOg 1% @ Strain and cool.

Chili flakes 6.5 g 0.65% ® Vacuum seal smoked cheeks with 1 kg of cooled Brine
brine.
Cut (d)
® Cook sous vide in 62 °C / 144 "F bath for 72 h.
short rib, bone in 6
® If serving immediately, restfor 15 min at room
short rib, boneless 3
temperature, and slice. Otherwise, cool quickly in
beef tongue 7
ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
from page 3-213 brisket, fatty end 7

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 121

HAY-SMOKED CHICKEN CROWN Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole chicken 1 kg 100% ® Remove legs and wings.
® Cut through ribs to remove bone-in crown, and reserve crown.
@ Optionally, reserve carcass, legs, and wings for sauce vin jaune (see page 308).
Water 400 g 40% @ Combine to make brine.
Salt 28 g 2.8% ® Immerse crown in brine.
Thyme 2g 0.2% ® Refrigerate forl2 h.
@ Drain and rinse crown.
Yellow sweet meadow 100 g 10% ® Lay hay in bottom of hotel pan,
hay or straw ® Place crown in center ofhay, and coverwith more hay.
@ Ignite hay with blowtorch until burning.
@ Coverwith another pan, and let smolder for 10 min.

@ Remove crown from hay, and cool completely.

@ Peel away skin, and discard.
® Cook chicken crown in 65 °C/ 150 °F combi oven with 0% relative humidity until core
temperature reaches 60 °C/ 140 °F for about 2 h, depending on size of chicken. If using CVap
oven, set browning level to 4 and doneness temperature as above.
© Optionally, to pasteurize, lower temperature to 60 °C/ 140 °F, and hold for 1 h.
from page 5114

SMOKED PORK CHEEK Yields 240 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Alternatively, smoke cheeks in a Pork cheek, sinew 300 g 100% ® Cold-smoke at 7 °C/ 45 °F with 50% relative humidity
conventional smokerfor2 h. The removed (four cheeks) for24 h, which will produce wet-bulb temperature of
taste will be different but still good. Alderwood chips as needed 3°C/37°F.

Cherry wood chips as needed

Brown pork stock 150 g 50% @ Vacuum seal pork cheek with stock.
see page 6
@ Cook sous vide in 68 °C /154 °F bath for 48 h.
® Slice and serve, or cool, in bag, in ice-water bath, and
refrigerate.
from page 5-38

HEATHER-SMOKED STURGEON Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Wild sturgeon fillet 500 g 100% ® Combine vodka, salt, sugar, and lemon zest to make
Vodka 35 g 7% cure. Coat fillet evenly with cure.

Salt 20 g 4% @ Vacuum seal.

Sugar 7g 1.4% @ Cure in refrigerator for 8 h.

Lemon zest, finely grated 2g 0.4% @ Rinse, and patdry with papertowels.

Cherry wood chips 750 g 150% ® Smoke fillet with chips and blossoms at 52 °C /125 °F
Dried heather blossoms lOOg 20% with 50% relative humidity for4 h.

® Serve, or cool and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-235

122 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 SMOKED OCTOPUS adapted from JOAN ROCA Yields too g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Baby octopuses, heads 150 g 100% @ Pat dry, and coat lightly with oil.
removed and set aside
@ Sear on grill until just cooked through, about 4 min,
for other use
turning once. Although the heads are removed,
Frying oil as needed
the arms of each octopus should
Baked potato foam 150 g 100% @ Vacuum seal. still be connected to its body.
see page 324
0 Warm in 70 °C /158 °F bath.
Pistou basil leaves to taste ® Cover four glass bowls with layer of plastic wrap.
Salt to taste pulling tightly on each until plastic is invisible.
Sweet smoked paprika to taste ® Top plastic wrap with warmed potato foam.
(Pimenton de la Vera, @ Top foam with octopuses.
dulce)
® Season and reserve.
Oak wood sawdust, 15 g 10% @ Place in smoke gun, and warm end of gun.
finely ground
@ Poke tip of gun into plastic wrap, and fill bowl with
smoke. Repeat quickly for remaining three bowls.
® Serve immediately.
from page 3-215

HAMBURGERS

@ Choose a blend of well-marbled meat, and chill the meat deeply. The
Best Bets for Burgers
table Best Bets for Burgers lists several good options, each of which has a
different flavor, texture, and cooking profile. Leanness Cook

@ Put ice cubes or liquid nitrogen in the grinder to chill it to just above Meat blend Ingredients (scaling) (% fat) (°C) (°F)
0 °C/32 "F. rare beef filet mignon 100% 20 52 126
@ Cut. Cutaway any large chunks of fat from the meat, and cut into cubes rib eye cap 45%
about 2 cm /% in on a side. Chill the meat to -1 °C/30 °F.
short rib short-rib meat 100% 30 54 129
Do not salt the meat.
MC team favorite short-rib meat 100% 25 56 133
@ Grind the cubes through a3-4 mm in plate. (Fortender meat
aged rib eye 100%
blends, chop by hand, and then shape into a loose patty 3 cm/iy4 in
thick, and skip to step 9.) When using a grinder, tighten the collar to hangar 25%
prevent mashing and tearing. Don't force the meat through the steak-house blend chuck 100% 25 54 129
grinder; let the auger pull it through.
sirloin 50%
© Collect the extruded strands of ground meat in a cylindrical mold cut flank 50%
in half and lined with plastic wrap. (Selecta mold slightly wider than
from page 3-234
the diameter desired forthe patties.) Slowly pull the mold toward you
as the meat exits the grinder so that the strands run straight along the
mold. Build up layers of strands to fill the mold.
When is the best time to add flavorful liquids and powdered seasonings to
® Repeat with a second mold, and then press the two molds together to ground beef? Mixingthem with the cubed meat before grinding is notthe
form a complete cylinder of meat. best approach because most additives bind the meat strands together.
@ Use the surrounding plastic wrap to remove the meat from the mold. Seasonings containing salt, for example, extract the meat protein myosin,
Tighten the wrap slightly to gently compress the cylinder-but take which forms a strong, elastic gel when cooked. That may be desirable in
care not to overtighten and mash the meat together, which will make sausage making, but it produces a rubbery burger.
the patties less tender. The meat cylinder can be frozen at this point, Forthe tenderest burgers, season the meat afteryou have cut it into
but then it will have to be sawed into patties. patties. Avoid adding eggs, starches such as bread crumbs, or protein-laden
liquids such as milk. During cooking, these ingredients gel and act like
® Use a sharp knife to cut hamburger discs of the desired thickness.
edible glue.
Remove the plastic wrap from the cut patties, and refrigerate them
until cooking.

® Cook, season, and garnish. See the recipes for Mushroom Swiss Burger
on page 5-11 and forSous Vide Hamburger on page3'86.

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 123

 COARSE-GROUND SAUSAGES

® choose a recipe and a binding strategy, which will determine the

@ Mix at low speed with a paddle mixing blade. Keep mixture below 15 °C /
pregrinding treatment if any—see page 3-228. Depending on the strategy 59 °F.
selected, add salt and any polyphosphates during this step. Add Activa, if
needed, during step 3. © Perform a poach test (see page 3-225) to check that the sausage binds
properly. If binding is insufficient, add polyphosphate or Activa (but not
©Grind meat and fat separately (see page 3'228). Before grinding, freeze
both)—each yields a somewhat different texture. If binding is too strong,
the meat partially, and freeze the fat fully. Optionally, prepare a fat gel
add water (up to a few percent) or fillers such as bread crumbs.
with fatty tissue or a rendered fat or oil, as described on page 3-145.
® Form, mold, or stuff, as discussed on page 3-240.
@ Combine the ground meats and fats with liquid, spices, and fresh herbs,
@ Cook in a water bath to the core temperature indicated in the table. Note
plus other ingredients in a kitchen stand mixer. The spices should be
that vacuum sealing the meat will affect the cooked texture.
finely ground, and the herbs finely minced. If using Activa, add it now.

Best Bets for Coarse-Ground Sausages

Sausage recipe Meat (scaling) Fat (scaling) Liquid (scaling) Spice and herbs (scaling)
sweet Italian pork shoulder 100% porkfatback 25% water 14% sweet paprika 1.7%
oregano, fresh 1.7%
basil, fresh 1.7%
fennel seed, cracked 1.1%
coriander seed, finely 0.6%
crushed
hot pepper flakes (optional) 0.2%
black pepper, coarse-ground 0.1%
British banger, pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 50% water 30% black pepper 0.4%
adapted from
Heston Blumenthal white pepper 0.4%
mace 0.3%
nutmeg 0.3%
ginger powder 0.1%
Kielbasa pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 30% water 20% marjoram 0.50%
Kminkowa pork shoulder (80%)* pork fatback 35% caraway, coarsely ground 0.35%
beefchuck {20%)*
white pepper 0.20%

breakfast-style pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 35% water 16% sage 0.70%
duck breast, 100% whole duck skin 50% black pepper 0.20%
skinless
ground ginger 0.15%
cotechino pork shoulder 100% pork jowl fat 60% water 5% wild fennel seed 0.30%
rosemary 0.20%
lemon zest, finely grated 0.10%
merguez lamb shoulder 100% pork fatback 22.5% water 6% sweet paprika, smoked 0.80%
oregano 0.80%
hot pepper flakes 0.30%
black pepper 0.25%
Thai chicken chicken thigh 100% chicken skin and fat 20% fish sauce 5% lemongrass 1.1%
inspired by
David Thompson
pork fatback 20% soy sauce 1% cilantro 1.0%
galangal 0.6%
makrud lime leaves 0.6%
dried Thai red chili 0.2%
long pepper 0.1%
cassia 0.1%
rom page 3-236 *{set total weight of pork shoulder and beef chuck to 100%)

24
VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL
 Salt Binder Cook
Other ingredients(scaling) (scaling)(scaling) (°C) (°F) Note
sugar 2% 3.2% Activa 0.25% 58 136
polyphosphate blend 0.10%

white bread, toasted 10% 3%

0.175% 58 136 Toast bread at 170 °C/340 °F until dry and
grain mustard 4% polyphosphate 0.070% golden brown, about 30 min.
Tate & Lyle Golden Syrup 2% blend

garlic, finely minced 0.50% 3% Activa 0.175% 55 131 Grind using a 2 mm/Xe in plate. Dry sausages
Insta Cure No. 1 0.25% polyphosphate 0.070% for 2 d at 2-6 °C/35-42 °F and 85% relative
sugar 0.45% blend humidity. Smoke for 1-2 d at 10 °C/50 °Fand
85% relative humidity.
maple syrup, smoked 3% 2.6% Activa 0.25% 59 138
sweet onion, finely chopped 2% polyphosphate blend 0.10%

whole green lentils, cooked 40.0% 3.8% Activa 0.25% 57 135

Parmesan, grated 4.5% polyphosphate 0.10%
blend
roasted red pepper, minced 8.00% 2% Activa 0.25% 55 131
garlic, minced 1.40% polyphosphate blend 0.10%
sugar 0.25%

shallot, finely minced 3.0% 2.3% Activa 0.25% 60 140 Mix finely ground spices and herbs with
fresh coconut, finely grated 3.0% polyphosphate blend 0.10% shallot, coconut, and garlic to make a paste.
garlic, finely minced 1.0%

(binder selections in bold are those we prefer)

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 125

FARCE ROYALE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pigeon leg meat, cold 150 g 100% @ Combine, puree until smooth, and reserve.

Rendered foie gras fat lOg 6.7%

Salt 3g 2%

Insta Cure No. 1 1.9g 1.3%

Nutrifos 088 (Astaris 0.16 g 0.12%

brand), dissolved in
warm water
Brown pigeon stock 200 g 133% @ Reduce stock to 25 g to make glaze.
see page 6 @ Bloom gelatin, and dissolve in glaze.
160 Bloom gelatin 3.25 g 2%
@ Add meat puree, and cool over ice-water bath.

Pancetta, brunoise 40 g 27% © Fold into meat mixture until completely incorporated.

Hazelnuts, skinned and 35 g 23% ® Place mixture between two silicone baking mats.
finely minced @ Roll out with heavy rolling pin; use two dowels 5 mm / (4 in each in diameter, for calibration.
Porcini, finely minced 35 g 23% placing one on each side of stacked sheets.

Garlic, blanched and 7g 4.7% ® Refrigerate farce royale until set.

brunoise
Nutrifos 088 (Astaris 0.16 g 0.12%
brand), dissolved in
warm water
from page 5-132

TOULOUSAIN GARLIC SAUSAGE Yields 750 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lean pork 735 g 100% @ Combine salt with lean pork, and refrigerate for 12 h.

Pork fatback, frozen 255 g 35% ©Grind meat and fatback through 5 mm / Me in grinding

Salt 18 g 2.4% plate.

Garlic confit 30 g 4.1% (D Combine ground meat and fat, and spices in stand
see page 176 mixer.
Using polyphosphates can shorten Nutmeg, finely ground Ig 0.14%
presalting time. Alternatively, skip Natural casings, as needed ® Prepare, stuff, and link casings 10 cm / 4 in long.
this step altogether by adding 2.5 cm /1 in diameter ® Hang sausages in refrigerator for 12 h.
0,25% Activa Tl. For details, see
® Cut into two long links, and vacuum seal without
page 3-250.
crushing.
© Cook garlic sausages sous vide in 59 °C /138 "F bath to
core temperature of 58 °C /136 °F, about 35 min. Hold
at temperature for 30 min to pasteurize.
® Cut sausages into slices 1 cm / Vi in thick.
@ Sear on 220 °C / 425 °F griddle until all sides are golden.

from page 5-82

126 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

GREEN GARLIC AND PORK SAUSAGE
Yields 300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PR
Pork shoulder, boneless 250 g 100% (1) Cut into cubes.
Fatback 80 g 32% @ Toss with meat and fat cubes, and refrigerate for 4 h.
Salt 4.5 g 1.8% (D Grind all cubes through 5 mm /14 in grinding plate.
Nutrifos 088, dissolved 0.66 g 0.26%
in small amount ofwarm {0.2%)*
water

Green garlic, blanched 8g 3.2% li) Mrx thoroughly with ground pork mixture.
and finely minced
© Form into sausages 3.75 cm /Vf in. in diameter and 10 cm / 4 in long by using plastic wrap to
mold meat mixture.

® Refrigerate links for 12 h to mature.

@ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 61 °C /142 °F bath to core temperature of 60 °C /140 °F,
about 45 min.

© Cool in ice-water bath, and slice sausage on diagonal into slices 1 cm /% in thick
from page 5-86 *{% of total ive/ffht of pork shoulder andfatback)

MEAT AND SEAFOOD

127
EMULSION-STYLE SAUSAGES

® Choose a recipe from the table of Best Bets below. ® Chop or fold in the spices and fresh herbs, plus other ingredients. The

@ Grind meat and fat separately, as described on page 3-228. Use a spices should be finely ground, and the herbs finely minced.

pretreatment for the meat, which will affect binding ingredients. ® Do a poach test (see page 3-225). Adjust the binder as needed.

@ Puree ground meat in a food processor or bowl chopper. Keep the @ Stuff or mold the sausage.
temperature below 15 °C/ 59 °F. Add liquids chilled or frozen to keep ® Smoke the sausage (optional). For best results, the wet-bulb temperature
meat cool. Optionally, sprinkle the meat with liquid nitrogen to chill it. should not exceed 56 °C /132 °F during smoking.
©Add the fat, and continue to puree. Keep the mixture cold.

Best Bets for Emulsion-Style Sausages

Sausage variety Meat(scaling) Fat(scaling) Liquid(scaling) Spices and herbs(scaling)
blood sausage n/a porkfatback, 42% pork blood 100% bay leaf, powdered 0.3%
small dice and whole milk 20%
blanched Calvados 8%
foie gras fat, 16% (or applejack)
rendered

bratwurst pork 100% porkfatback 52% whole milk 9% white pepper 0.5%
shoulder
veal shoulder 33% heavy cream 9% ginger powder 0.3%
nutmeg 0.3%
boudin blanc, chicken thigh 100% rendered chicken 33.0% infused milk 107% quatre epices 0.2%
chicken fat (see page 131) (see page 48)

pistachio oil 8.5% alcohol 3.7%

boudin blanc, veal veal shoulder 100% veal jowl fat 33.0% reduction

or blend (or chicken/veal mix) pistachio oil 8.5% (see note)

frankfurter, beef chuck 100% beef fat 55% water 40% liquid smoke (optional) 1.50%
all beef mustard powder 1.25%

frankfurter beef chuck (65%)* onion powder 1.00%

pork leg {35%>)* sweet paprika 1.00%

white pepper 0.25%
coriander seed 0.20%
nutmeg 0.10%
ham and cheese pork 100% Gruyere cheese, 35% water 35% n/a
shoulder grated

mortadella pork 100% porkfatback, 100% water 60% white pepper 0.35%
shoulder blanched (see white wine 7% corianderseed 0.30%
note) (dry) garlic powder 0.25%
nutmeg 0.10%
cinnamon 0.10%
shellfish scallop, 100% n/a heavy cream 55% chervil 1.0%
shrimp, or alcohol 15% chive 1.0%
lobster reduction tarragon 1.0%
(see note) white pepper 0.1%
star anise 0.1%
from page 3-238 *(set total weight of beef chuck and pork leg to 100%)

128 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 ® Cook sous vide or steam at temperature indicated. To pasteurize, hoid at
cookingtemperature fortime indicated on page 1184. Plunge into cold
water or use a cold-water shower.
@ Peel sausages ifthey are in removable casings.

Salt Cook
Other ingredients (scaling) (scaling) Binder (scaling) (°C) (°F) Note
onions, minced 100% 5.4% Activa RM 0.6% 82 180 Combine flour, puree, milk, and half of the foie
chestnut puree 20% gras fat. Bringto boil. Chill. Emulsify blood into
(store-bought) mixture, and reserve. Sweat apples and onions in

fine breadcrumbs 13% remaining foie gras fat until very tender. Deglaze
with Calvados. Chill. Combine apples and onions
apple, small dice 10%
with fatback, breadcrumbs, Activa, and
chestnut flour 5%
seasonings. Fold in blood, and mold. Before
cooking, blanch in boiling water fori min.
whole egg 8.5% 5% n/a 55 130

soy protein concentrate 7.0%

egg white 16.2% 4.4% n/a 61 142 For alcohol reduction, combine 14.7% cognac,
egg yolk 4.4% 11% Madeira, and 3.7% white port, and reduce

Sicilian pistachios 11.0% to one-eighth of starting volume.

black truffles, optional 7.0%

glycerin monostearate 2.00% 4.5% Activa or 0.22% 60 140 For hot-smoked version, air-dry for 30 min after
skim milk powder 1.85% polyphosphate 0.09% stuffing. Smoke for 90 min at 70 °C /158 “F and

Insta Cure No. 1 0.15% blend (not 85% relative humidity. Poach at 70 °C /158 °F to
both) core temperature of 68 °C/154 °F. Plunge in cold
dextrose 0.20%
water for 2 min. Refrigerate until cold, and peel.

sodium citrate 0.2% 4% n/a 55 130 Add sodium citrate to boiling water, and blend in
pullman loaf, frozen as cheese until smooth. Cool. Blend with meat. Slice
(see note) needed frozen bread very thinly. Wrap cooked, uncased
sausage in bread slice, and fry in butter until crisp.
Sicilian pistachios, peeled 18% 4.6% Activa 0.25% 55 130 Reserve 25% of pork fatback, and cut into 1 cm /
microcrystalline cellulose 7% Vz in cubes. Blanch in boiling waterforlO s, and
(Avicel CG 200, FMC then cool. Fold into the sausage mix along with the
BioPolymer brand) pistachios before stuffing.

Insta Cure No. 1 0.55%

whole egg 11.0% 2.5% n/a 65 149 For alcohol reduction, reduce two parts dry sherry

sodium caseinate 0.4% and one part cognac by half, and cool completely.

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 129

 ITALIAN SAUSAGE Yields 1.8 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pork shoulder, cubed and 1 kg 100% ©Chill coarse grinder die and extruder bowl.
chilled to -1 °C/30 °F @ Grind pork shoulder and fatback separately through
Porkfatback, cubed 300 g 30% chilled die into chilled bowl. Keep forcemeat chilled.
and frozen @ Fold ground meat and fat together, and reserve.
Ice water 140 g 14% @ Finely mince fresh basil and oregano.
Salt 20 g 2% @ Grind fennel seeds and toasted coriander seeds to
Sugar 20 g 2% fine powder.

Basil 17 g 1.7% © Coarsely grind peppercorns.

Hungarian paprika 17g 1.7% @ Combine seasonings, and fold into forcemeat.

Oregano 17g 1.7%

Fennel seeds, toasted llg 1.1%
Coriander seeds, toasted 6g 0.6%
Hot pepperflakes 2g 0.2%
Black peppercorns Ig 0.1%
Hog casings, 32-35 mm / as needed ® Stuff seasoned forcemeat into casing.
11/4-1% in. in diameter @ Twist links to desired lengths.

® Refrigerate sausages for at least 1 h.

@ Poach or steam sausages at 61 °C/ 142 “F until core
temperature reaches 60 °C/ 140 °F, about 25 min.
from page 3-242

FRANKFURTER Yields 2.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beef chuck, cubed and 1 kg 100% © Chill fine die and extruder bowl.
chilled to-1 °C/30°F @ Grind beef chuck and fat separately.
Beef fat, cubed and frozen 550 g 55% @ Puree ground meat and ice until smooth.
Ice, crushed 400 g 40% ® Add fat, and continue to puree until smooth.
The sausages can be cold-smoked
© Reserve ground meat mixture chilled.
at 10 °C/50 °F for 24 h or hot-
Salt 33 g 3.3% © Grind nutmeg, white pepper, and toasted coriander
smoked at 52 °C/125 °F forl2 h. See
Skim milk powder 18.5g 1.85% seeds to fine powder.
page 120 for details on smoking.
Mustard powder 12.5g 1.25% © Fold spices and additives into cold ground-meat
mixture.
Onion powder lOg 1%
Sweet paprika lOg 1%
Nutmeg 5g 0.5%
Insta Cure No. 1 3-3 g 0.33%
White pepper 2.5g 0.25%
Glycerin monostearate 2-2 g 0.22%
(4mular brand)
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 0.2%
Dextrose 2g 0.2%
Sheep casing, 2 cm / as needed © Stuff forcemeat paste into casing.
% in. in diameter @ Twist links to desired lengths.
® Refrigerate sausages for at least 1 h.
@ Poach or steam links at 61 °C / 142 °F to core
temperature of60°C/ 140 °F, about 25 min.
from page 3-242

130 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

BOUDIN BLANC Yields 2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

1% milk 750 g 103% ® Vacuum seal together.
Button mushrooms, 75 g 10% @ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath fori h.
thinly sliced @ Strain.
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 7% ® Measure 725 g of infused milk, and reserve
Sweet onions, 50 g 7% refrigerated.
thinly sliced
Dried morels, ground 5g 0.7%
to powder
Bay leaf 0.75 g 0.1%

Thyme 0.5 g 0.07%

Cognac 100 g 14% ® Combine, and reduce to 25 g.

Madeira wine 75 g 10.5% ® Cool completely, and reserve.

White port 25 g 3.5%

Infused milk, from above 725 g 100% @ Puree until smooth, while keepingtemperature below
Chicken thighs, 680 g 94% 7°C/45°F.

finely ground ® Refrigerate for 10 min.

Egg whites, blended nog 15%

Egg yolks, blended 30 g 4%

Salt 30 g 4%

Quatre epices 1.5g 0.2%

see page 48
Rendered chicken fat 227 g 31.5% @ Blend into chilled chicken puree until fully emulsified.

Pistachio oil 58 g 8% @ Optionally, for aerated texture, transfer mixture to

1 1 whipping siphon and charge with two cartridges of
nitrous oxide. Omit added pistachios and truffles
pieces in step 11.
If not using a siphon, whipthe egg
Green Sicilian pistachios, 75 g 10.5% ® For regular boudins, fold into mixture to make
whites separately. Fold the emulsi¬
quartered forcemeat.
fied mixture into the whipped egg
Black truffles, optional 50 g 7%
whites, and stuff.
finely minced
Natural casings, as needed @ For aerated texture, shake siphon vigorously, and
4 cm /11/2 in. in diameter dispense forcemeat directly into casings.
® For regular boudins, stuff casings with forcemeat.
Frying oil as needed @ Poach or steam sausages (boudins) at 61 °C/ 142 °F to
core temperature of 60 °C/ 140 °F, about 35 min.
@ Puncture membrane of sausage with needle in several
places to prevent explosion.
@ Sear boudins in oil until evenly golden and slightly
puffed.
from page 3-243

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 131

FERMENTED SAUSAGE

® Select a sausage recipe and a fermentation approach. The table Best Bets example, when making chorizo add 3 g salt, 0.3 g curing salt, 0.02 g
for Fermented Sausages below lists several good options, and the culture, and 25 gfatbackto every 100 g of pork shoulder. Use a stand
Fermentation Methods table at right suggests cultures and parameters for mixer with a paddle mixing blade; run the mixer at low speed.
slow, medium, and fast methods. ® Stuff. Stuff the sausage mixture into casings of the dimensions indicated in
@ Select a culture and a curing salt. We recommend Bactoferm F-LC culture, the table.
which works for all three approaches; for slow-fermented sausages, ® Ferment by holding at the temperature, relative humidity (%RH), and time
Bactoferm T-SPX produces a more traditional flavor. Follow indicated in the table above.
manufacturer's instructions for rehydrating the culture before use.
® Smoke, dry, or both (optional). Dry at the temperature and humidity
Use the curing salt indicated in the table on the next page.
shown in the table above until sausage has lost at least 25% of its original
©Grind trimmed meat and fat separately. For details, see page 3-228. wet weight for semidried, or about 50% for dried sausage; approximate
Recommended grinding plate dimensions are given in the table below. times are listed in the table above. To encourage a coating of mold to
@ Combine all ingredients. To avoid degrading the activity of the culture, grow on the outside of the casing, dip the sausages into a solution of
mix the curing salt, carbohydrates, and seasonings into the meat Christian Hansen M-EK-4 mold culture before drying. For more
thoroughly before adding the culture. Add the salt and fat last. Quantities information about smoking meat, see page 3-208.
in the recipes below are given relative to the principal meat used. For

Best Bets for Fermented Sausages

Grind Salt Curing salt Culture

Sausage Meat (scaling) Fat (scaling) (mm) (in) (scaling) (scaling) (scaling)

salami pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 25% 5 ^6 4.2% 0.4% 0.03%
beef, chuck 40% 2 Xe

saucisson sec pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 35% 5 y ,6 3.0% 0.3% 0.02%

pepperoni pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 40% 5 Vie 5.1% 0.4% 0.02%
beefchuck 42.5%

chorizo pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 25% 8 y ,6 3.0% 0.3% 0.02%

lap cheong pork shoulder 100% pork fatback 20% 10 Vs 3.0% 0.3% 0.02%

from page 3-246

132 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

Fermentation Methods
Ferment Dry Fast fermentation lowers the pH ofthe
Method Curing salt ("C) (“F) (d) (%RH) (°C) (°F) (%RH) (d) sausage more quickly and further by using
Slow, dried Insta Cure No. 2 18 64 10 85 12 54 fast-acting cultures that work at higher
70 25-40
temperatures, but require higher sugar
Medium, Insta Cure No. 1 24 75 3 85 15 59 70 10-25 content. And provided the food is refriger¬
semidried
ated, you can skip the lengthy drying step.
Fast, fresh Insta Cure No. 1 37 100 1 100 n/a n/a n/a n/a

VARIATION: Fermenting Sous Vide

Follow steps 1 to 5 on the previous page.

@ Vacuum seal sausages together in a single row. Be careful not to squish @ Cool. The sausages must be refrigerated.
the sausages when sealingthem in the bag.
©Vacuum dry, or dry conventionally at the temperature, humidity, and
(D Ferment sous vide in a water bath, combi oven, or water-vapor oven at time indicated in the table above (optional, see page 2-433). Drying can
the desired temperature-usually 37 “C/lOO °F-forl d. simulate the texture of a sausage made with the traditional, slow-dried
@ Pasteurize at 55 °C/130 '’Ffor2-3 h (optional). approach.

(scaling) Casing
Carbohydrate (slow/medium/fast) Seasonings (mm ) (in)
dextrose 0.35%/0.7%/1.1% black pepper, coarsely ground 0.15% 75 3
garlic, finely minced 0.10%
dextrose 0.25%/0.5%/0.75% hazelnuts, peeled, roasted, and 9.0% 75 3
coarsely chopped (optional)
black pepper, coarsely ground 0.7%
garlic, finely minced 0.1%
dextrose 0.35%/0.7%/l.l% red chili powder 1.25% 60 2%
hot paprika 1.10%
allspice 0.75%
cayenne (optional) 0.50%
black pepper 0.50%
dextrose 0.25%/0.5%/0.75% hot pimenton de la Vera 0.7% 33 Ww
Ancho chili powder 0.7%
cayenne pepper 0.2%
garlic, finely minced 0.2%
dextrose 0.25%/0.5%/0.75% soy sauce 3.00% 20 ¥4
shaoxing wine 1.00%
monosodium glutamate 1.00%
cassia, finely ground 0.15%

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 133

 Yields 1.5 kg
SAUCISSON SEC
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
PorksEioulder, cubed and 1 kg 100% @ Chill grinderextruder bowl, coarse die, and 3 mm /J4 in fine die.
chilled to -1 °C / 30 °F @ Grind pork shoulder and fatback separately through chilled coarse die into chilled bowl.

Porkfatback, cubed 250 g 25% @ Grind both separately through chilled fine die into chilled bowl.
and frozen (4) Fold ground meat and fat together, and reserve chilled.

Garlic 1.3% (S) Blanch once in boiling water, drain, and mince. Reserve.
13 g
Porkfatback lOOg 10% (S) Freeze, and cut into small dice. Reserve frozen.

90 g 9% @ Fold minced garlic, nuts, dextrose, pepper, and Insta Cure into chilled ground pork to make
Elazelnuts, roasted,
peeled, and chopped forcemeat.

Dextrose lOg 1%

Black pepper, coarsely 7g 0.7%

ground
Insta Cure No. 2 2.5g 0.25%

Bactoferm F-RM 52 1.125 g 0.1% @ Whisk bacterial culture into water at 20 °C/ 68 °F to make slurry.

(Christian Hansen brand) (0.07%)* @ Fold into forcemeat, and mix thoroughly to evenly distribute slurry.

Distilled water 35 g 3.5% @ Fold in frozen fat and salt.

Salt 35 g 3.5%

as needed ® Stuff meat into casings, and then twist into 25 cm / 10 in links; tie ends with butcher's twine.
Synthetic casings, 3 cm
by 61 cm/l'A in by 24 in @ Dip sausages into distilled water to moisten surface, and immediately hang in fermentation
chamber or other controiled-atmosphere chamber.
@ Ferment at 22 °C / 72 °F and 90% relative humidity for 3 days. A thin film of bacterial growth
may form on surface of sausage casing.
® Hang sausages in cool room at 12 °C / 54 °F to dry for 3-4 wk, until sausages have lost 25%-
40% of their original weight. The more water weight sausages lose, the denser they become.

from page 3-247 *(% of total weight of meat and fat)

FERMENTED SHRIMP SHEETS inspired by wylie dueresne Yieidssoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Raw shrimp, ground 200 g 100% ® Puree in food processor until smooth.

Coconut milk 100 g 50% @ Pass through fine sieve.

Shrimp paste (belacan) 15 g 7.5% @ Spread on silicone mat in layer 1 mm /'A^ in thick.

ActivaTl (or Activa RM) 6g 3% @ Cover, and steam in combi oven at 55 °C/131 °F for

1.25 g 0.65% 4 min covered.

Salt
® Refrigerate for 1 h to set.
® Steam at 100 °C/212 “Fforl min, or cook sous vide
atsame temperature and time.

@ Cool and refrigerate.

from page 5-168

134 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

FAST-CURED PEPPERONI Yields!.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Bactoferm F-LC 0.85 g 0.085% @ Whisk bacterial culture into water at 20 °C / 68 °F to make slurry. Reserve.
(0.05%)*
Distilled water !0g !%
Pork shoulder, cubed and ! kg !00% @ Chill grinder extruder bowl andSmm/Lsinfinedie.
chilled to -! °C/30 °F @ Dry-blend seasonings except salt.
Beef chuck, cubed and 425 g 42.5% ® Toss cubed meat with seasoning powder.
frozen
© Cover, and refrigerate for 3 h.
Porkfatback, cubed 400 g 40%
© Grind seasoned meat and fat separately into chilled bowl.
and frozen
@ Stir culture slurry into meat until evenly distributed, and fold in fat and salt.
Salt 51 g 5.!%
© Vacuum seal mixture, andholdat38°C/100°F for 24 h.
Dextrose 17g !.7%
@ Optionally, to make pepperoni sheets, add 0.25% Activa RM to weight of meat, and roll
Sugar 17g !.7%
mixture in a sous vide bag into sheet! mm /!42 in thick (see page 2208).
Red chili powder 12-5 g !.25%
@ Cook sous vide in55°C/!3! °F bath for !0 min.
Smoked paprika ng !.!%
® To make quick-dried pepperoni stick, form forcemeat into ! cm /% in diameter sticks.
Lactic acid 8.5 g 0.85%
® Cook sous vide in 55 °C/ !3! °F bath for25 min.
(0.5%Y
® Vacuum dry for 8-24 h (see page 2-433) or air dry, refrigerated, for 2-3 days until desired
Allspice, powder 7.5 g 0.75%
texture is achieved.
Black pepper, powder 5g 0.5%
Cayenne 5g 0.5%
InstaCure No.! 3.5 g 0.35%
(0.2%)
from page 3-247 (% of total weight of meat)
*(%ofl

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 135

MODERNIST SAUSAGES

COARSE FAT-GEL SAUSAGE Yields 420 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pork fatback 70 g 100% ® Cut into medium-size cubes.
@ Vacuum seal, and heat to 70 °C /158 °F.

Sodium caseinate 5g 7% @ Disperse gellan and sodium caseinate in water, and

Water 70 g 100% blend. You can add the spice mix for any

Low-acyl gellan 0.7 g 1% @ Bringto simmer. coarse sausage to the recipe above

(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco ® Blend in warm fat cubes until fully emulsified. as a flavoring, and similarly use any
brand) spice mix for emulsified sausage in
® Continue blendingfor3 min until mixture forms
the recipe below.
bright-white fat gel.
@ Pour into container, cover, and refrigerate for 24 h.

Pork shoulder, chilled 280 g 400% ® Cube pork, and mix with Nutrifos and salt.

Salt 8.4 g 12% ® Mix with fat gel, and grind through coarse 5 mm / 'Ain

Nutrifos 088 0.28 g 0.4% die.

@ Stuff orshape, and cook in 63 °C/ 145 °F bath to core
temperature of 62 °C/ 144 °F.

from page 3-248

EMULSIFIED SAUSAGE WITH FAT GEL Yields 600 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 100 g 100% @ Disperse alginate in water, and blend until fully hydrated.

Sodium alginate lOg 10%

(Manugel DMF, EMC (5%)*
BioPolymer brand)
Rendered fat or oil (liq uid) 100 g 100% @ Blend in until emulsified.
@Chillto0°C/32'’F.

Meat 500 g 500% ©Grind meat in fine 3 mm / '/s in die.

® Place all ingredients in food processor, and puree until emulsified.
© Form in mold, and cook in 62 °C/ 144 °F bath to core temperature of 61 °C/142 °F.

Salt 12 g 12%

from page 3-248 *(% of total weight of water andfat)

LOW-FAT CHICKEN SAUSAGE Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 138 g 46% @ Blend together until fully hydrated.

Xanthan gum 0.45 g 0.15%

Guar gum 0.18 g 0.06%
Salt 6.9 g 2.3%
Rendered chicken 4.5 g 1.5% @ Combine meat and fat, and blend with gum mixture, from above, until smooth.
fat or oil @ Form sausages, and cook in 74 °C /165 °F bath to core temperature of 73 °C/163 °F.
Chicken breast 300 g 100% @ Chill. Reheatto serve.

from page 3-248

136 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

RARE BEEF SAUSAGE Yieldsl.8 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beefchuck 1 kg 100% @ Cut meats into 12.5 mm / ’/a in cubes, and combine.
Beef sirloin 500 g 50% (D Freeze meat until semifirm, -*1 °C / 30 °F.
Beef short rib 300 g 30% ©Chill grinder dies and parts, as well as extruder bowl.
@ Grind beef mixture once through chilled 3 mm /Ys in
die.

Activa RM 4.5 g 0.45% © Dry blend. The temperatures given here will
(0.25%)* cook the sausage beef to medium
© Fold seasoning mixture into chilled ground beef
rare.
Salt 36 g 3.6% mixture until evenly distributed.
(2%)* @ Roll in plastic wrap to form cylinder 4 cm / I’/a in thick,
Insta Cure No. 1 3.6 g 0.36% and tie ends tightly.
(0.2%)* ® Refrigerate for 3 h.
Nutrifos 088 1.8 g 0.18% © Cook in 55 °C /131 °F bath to core temperature of
(0.1%)* 54 °C /129 °F, about 35 min.
N-ZorbitM 36 g 3.6% @ Slice to desired thickness.
(National Starch brand) (2%)*

Black pepper, coarsely 9g 0.9%

ground
Flat leaf parsley, minced 36 g 3.6%

Alsatian mustard, optional as needed @ Serve with mustard if desired.

see page 176
from page 3-249 *(% of total weight of meat)

FRIED CHICKEN SAUSAGE Yields 1.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PRQCEDURE

Chicken thighs, skinless 1 kg 100% ©Chill grinder dies and parts, as well as extruder bowl.
and boneless, cubed @ Combine chicken pieces with salt and Nutrifos 088.
Salt 26 g 2.6% © Grind chicken mixture once through chilled fine die.
Nutrifos 088 2.5 g 0.25%

Activa RM 2.5 g 0.25% ® Fold in Activa.

Ice, crushed 200 g 20% ® Combine with ground chicken in food processor, and puree until smooth and ice is melted.

® Reserve.

Pressure-rendered 400 g 40% © bleat fat to 65 °C/ 149 °F, and whisk in glyceride flakes until fully dissolved.
chicken fat © Cool fat mixture to 40 °C / 104 °F.
see page 3-145
® Slowly drizzle fat into running food processor until fully emulsified.
Mono- and diglycerides 28 g 2.8%
(dice, Texturas brand) (7%)*

Synthetic casing, 4 cm/ as needed @ Stuff forcemeat into casings to make 30 cm / 12 in lengths. Tie off ends.
V/i in. in diameter ® Poach in 60 °C/140 °F bath for 1 h.
@ Peel casingfrom cooked sausages, and cut into four 7.5 cm / 3 in portions.

@ Reserve.

Chicken skin, 2 kg 200% @ Wet-render over medium-low heat until all water has evaporated and skin pieces have fried in
frozen and finely ground their own fat, about 30 min.

Water 400 g 40% @ Remove from heat, and blend with immersion blender until all skin is finely ground.

@ Drain skin, and reserve fat.

@ Dry skin between paper towels in 93 °C / 200 °F oven, about 20 min.

Salt as needed @ Season powdered skin with 1% of its weight in salt.

@ Roll sausage portions in seasoned powder just before serving.

from page 3-249 *{% of total weight of fat)

MEAT AND SEAFOOD 137

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES SOUS VIDE
@ Select and prep ingredients. Some of our favorites, along with prep steps, @ Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
are listed in the tables on these two pages. tables, as do references to elsewhere in the book.
@ Vacuum seal. See chapter 9 on Cooking Sous Vide, page 2192, for details.

Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender

Cut to Cook
Ingredient Prep (cm) (in) (°c) (°F) (min) See page
apricots peeled, pitted halves 88 190 15
apples peeled, cored halves 88 190 40 320
bananas skin on whole 88 190 12 280
cantaloupes peeled, seeded, cubed 2.5 1 53 127 15
cherries whole 88 190 7
cranberries whole 88 190 45
grapes whole 83 181 10
mangoes peeled, pitted, cubed 2.5 1 75 167 10
nectarines peeled, pitted halves 88 190 12
peaches peeled, pitted halves 88 190 16
pears peeled, cored whole 88 190 60
persimmons, soft Hachiya stemmed quarters 88 190 20
pineapples peeled, cored, cubed 2.5 1 75 167 60
plums pitted halves 75 167 20
from page 3-288

SOUS VIDE BABY BEET SALAD

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Baby beets, trimmed 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
but not peeled
@ Cook sous vide in 88 °C /190 °F bath fori h.
Extra virgin olive oil 75 g 30%
@ Remove from bag, reservingjuices, and rub off beet skins with clean kitchen towel.
Water 50 g 20%
@ Vacuum seal beets and juices together.
Salt 3.5 g 1.4%
® Refrigerate for at Ieast2 h before serving.
Passion fruit-white soy 50 g 20% ® Toss beets with vinaigrette and oil.
sauce vinaigrette
see page 23 @ Season with additional salt.

Toasted sesame oil lOg 4%

from page 5-183

SOUS VIDE GLAZED PEARL ONION Yields 50 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pearl onions 50 g 100% ® Blanch fori min.
@ Shock in ice-water bath.
@ Peel and reserve.
Water 20 g 40% ® Combine.
Extra virgin olive oil 5g 10% ® Vacuum seal with onions.
Black pepper to taste ® Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for2y2 h.
Salt to taste
Neutral oil as needed @ Drain, and season or refrigerate until use.
Black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5-221

138 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide Until Tender
Cut to Cook

Ingredient Peel (cm) (in) (°C) (“F) (min) See page

asparagus, green or white yes 15 6 85 185 15 5-147, 33

bamboo shoots, fresh yes 2.5 1 80 176 6h 5-247

beets, baby no whole 85 185 1 h 5-183

beets, large optional 5 2 82 180 1 h

carrots, large yes 15 6 85 185 45 5-164

carrots, young no whole 85 185 40 25

celery roots yes 5 2 85 185 11/2 h

chard stems 15 6 88 190 25

corn, on cob 7.5 3 60 140 15

daikon radishes yes 5 2 85 185 25

endives, Belgian whole 88 190 50

fennel bulbs cut in half 85 185 30

hearts of palm yes whole 85 185 11/2 h

kohlrabi optional 5 2 88 190 r/t h

leeks root removed cut in half 85 185 50

mushrooms (shiitake, crimini, oyster, shimeji, enoki, lobster, porcini) no whole 90 194 10 144

onions, cipolline yes whole 90 194 2h 141

onions, pearl yes whole 85 185 50 140

onions, sweet yes cut in half 88 190 45

rutabagas yes 5 2 85 185 1 h 5-53

salsify yes 5 2 88 190 15 5-205

shallots yes whole 85 185 1 h25

Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes) optional 5 2 85 185 1 h

squash, summer (zucchini, yellow) no 5 2 65 149 40

squash, firm autumn varieties (Hokkaido, kabocha, kuri) yes 5 2 90 194 15

squash, tender autumn varieties (acorn, butternut, delicata) yes 5 2 85 185 25

yes 5 2 85 185 35 139

turnips
from page 3-289

sous VIDE TURNIP Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Turnips 200 g 100% @ Cut turnips into slices 3 mm //s in thick.
@ Cut discs from each slice with 2.5 cm /1 in pastry cutter.

Unsalted butter 25 g 12.5% @ Vacuum seal discs in single even layer with butter, water, and salt.

Water 25 g 12.5% @ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 20 min.

Salt 2g 1% © Season with additional salt to taste.

from page 5-33

Yields 300 g
GLAZED WHITE CARROT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Small white carrots. 300 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
peeled @ Cook sous vide in 85 °C /185 °F bath for 45 min.
Water 50 g 17% © Pourcookingjuices into pot, leaving carrots in bag.
Unsalted butter 45 g 15% ® Reduce cookingjuices until syrupy, about 8 min.
Fructose 6g 2% © Stir in carrots until just warmed, and season with additional salt to taste.
Salt 3g 1%

from page 5-32

PLANT FOODS 139

BRAISED TURNIPS WITH SAFFRON Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Turnips, peeled and cutto 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
slices 5 mm / % in thick
@ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 35 min.
@ Serve, or refrigerate until use.

Water 100 g 40%

Saffron threads 0.25 g 0.1%
Salt 2g 0.8%
from page 5-123

GLAZED PEARF ONION Yields 230 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pearl onions, blanched 100 g 111% @ Prepare onions as directed.
and peeled
@ Vacuum seal onions with other ingredients.
Water 90 g 100%
@ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath fori h.
Champagne vinegar 30 g 33%
@ Cool in ice-water bath.
Honey 7g 8%
® Refrigerate until use.
Salt 3g 3.5%
Neutral oil as needed ® To serve, drain pearl onions, cut in half through stem ends, and pat dry.

@ Sear pearl onions in oil, cut sides only, until surfaces are golden and onions are just warmed.
about3 min.
from page 5-263

POTATO SALAD Yields 600 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Fingerling potatoes 400 g 100% ® Toss together.
Salt 5g 1.25% ® Cook sous vide in 88 °C /190 °F bath for about 30 min. (Cooking time will depend on size of
potatoes.)
@ Cool in ice-water bath.

@ Cut into halves or quarters, depending on size, and reserve.

Creme fraiche 50 g 12.5% ® Whisk together.
Muscat vinegar 20 g 5% ® Mix gently with cut potatoes.
Walnut oil 15 g 3.75%
French whole-grain 4g 1%
mustard
Salt 2g 0.5%
Sugar 2g 0.5%
CO
O

Egg yolk, cooked sous vide, 20%

CTQ

@ Fold gently into potato salad.

at 68 °C/154 °F for35 min,
cooled and quartered
Pickled pearl onions, petals 48 g 12%
see page 182
Celery leaves^ thinly sliced 3g 0.75%
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 0.5%
and crushed
Scallions, 40 g 10% ® Saute scallions over medium heat until tender.
whites only (four pieces)
® Arrange on potato salad.
Potato skins 200 g 50% @ Toss potato skins with starch.
Potato starch 15g 3.75% ® Fry in 180 °C/ 360 °F oil until golden and crisp, about 3 min.
Frying oil as needed @ Toss with salt.
Salt to taste @ Serve with potato salad.
from page 5-73

140 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

FRESH BEAN SALAD YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Fava beans, shelled and 25 g 100%* © Vacuum seal peas and each type of bean individually.
peeled
@ Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath for 20 min, or to desired doneness.
English peas, shelled and 20 g
@ Cool in ice-water bath.
peeled
® Cut beans crosswise into 2.5 cm /I in pieces.
Romano beans, trimmed 15g
© Combine.
Green beans, trimmed 14g
® Refrigerate until use.
Yellow wax beans, 14g
trimmed
Purslane leaves 7g 8% @ Measure ingredients individually.
Roasted hazelnut oil 7g 8% © Toss with cold beans and peas.
Vermouth vinegar (or 5g 5.7%
other semisweet
white vinegar)
Scallion, thinly sliced 4g 4.5%
Lime juice 3g 3.4%
Black pepper to taste ® Season salad.
Salt to taste

from page 5-87 *(100% is the total weight of all beans used)

SWEET-AND-SOUR CIPOLLINE ONION Yieidssog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cipolline onion, peeled lOOg 100% © Vacuum seal together.

White wine vinegar 55 g 55% @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C / 194 °F bath fori h 50 min.

Chestnut honey 29 g 29% © Remove from bag and drain.

Neutral oil 25 g 25%

Water lOg 10%

Salt 1.5 g 1.5%

Neutral oil as needed ® Cut onions in half horizontally, and sear until golden.
from page 519

CARROT AND DILL FRICASSEE Yields 125 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Carrots, peeled llOg 100% © Halve carrots lengthwise, and core.
Extra virgin olive oil lOg 9% @ Cut into half-moons 5 mm / (4 in thick.
© Vacuum seal with oil.
© Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 40 min.
Unsalted butter lOg 9% © Combine remaining ingredients, and warm through in small pot.

Ajowan seeds 2g 1.8% © Stir in cooked carrots and season.

Dill 2g 1.8%

Semisweet vinegar 2g 1.8%

(honey orwhite balsamic)
Salt to taste

from page 5-164

PLANT FOODS 141

sous VIDE LENTILS Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Carrots, thinly sliced 120 g 34% @ Prepare vegetables as noted.

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 120 g 34% (D Place vegetables and aromatics together in sachet.
Shallots, thinly sliced 80 g 23%
Leeks, thinly sliced 70 g 20%
Celery, thinly sliced 50 g 14%
Garlic, thinly sliced 25 g 7%
Thyme sprig 3g 0.8%
Bay leaf 2g 0.6%
Black peppercorns 2g 0.6%
Distilled water 1 kg 286% @ Combine, add sachet, and cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath fori h 15 min.
French green lentils. 350 g 100% @ Discard sachet, and rest lentils at room temperature for30 min.
soaked in cold water for 2 h © Cool in ice-water bath, and refrigerate until use.
Salt 17g 4.8%
Cherry vinaigrette 5g 1.5% ® To serve, fold into cooked lentils.
see page 5-270

Green hazelnuts, thinly 90 g 26% @ Garnish dressed lentils.

sliced
Black radish, small dice 15 g 4%
Chervil tops 15 g 4%
Friseetops 15 g 4%

Chamomile blossoms 5g 1.5%

(fresh)
from page 5-271

SOUS VIDE GREEN ASPARAGUS Yields200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green asparagus, 200 g 100% ® Vacuum seal all ingredients together.
stalks peeled @ Cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 15 min.
(aboutl.5 cm 7^8 in thick)
Water 20 g 10%
Extra virgin olive oil 10 g 5%
Salt 2g 1%
from page 5-149

SOUS VIDE ARTICHOKE Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200 g 200% ® Vacuum seal together.
Baby artichokes, peeled. 100 g 100% @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for 45 min.
and chokes and tough (four pieces) © Slice artichokes and serve, or cool and refrigerate until use.
leaves discarded
Yellow onion, thinly sliced 25 g 25%
Carrot, peeled and thinly 15 g 15%
sliced
Lemon peel 5-5 g 5.5%
Salt 2-5g 2.5%
Ascorbic acid 1g 1%
Thyme 1g 1%
Black coriander seeds 0-5 g 0.5%
Black peppercorns 0-5 g 0.5%
Bay leaf 0.2 g 0.2%
from page 5-244

142 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

VARIATION; Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat

@ Select and prep. See the table below for suggestions and prep steps. @ Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
@ Add fat, and vacuum seal. The fat column in the table indicates the kind t^ble below,
and quantity that work best. Proportions are relative to the weight of the
vegetable. For example, add 20 g of olive oil to the sous vide bag for
every 100 g of trimmed artichokes.

Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Until Tender
Cut to Cook
Ingredient (cm) (in) Fat (scaling)* (°c) (°F) (min) See page
artichokes, baby whole olive oil 20% 85 185 1 h 142
artichokes, mature half olive oil 20% 85 185 11/2 h 5-172
carrots, large 7.5 3 butter 30% 83 181 45
chestnuts, peeled whole lard 15% 90 194 12 h this page
crosnes (Chinese artichokes) whole clarified butter 20% 85 185 35
Japanese yams 7.5 3 butter 20% 95 203 45 5-35
garlic whole cloves olive oil 40% 88 190 7h
potatoes 7.5 3 butter 30% 85 185 45 184
shallots whole neutral oil 15% 85 185 1 h 25 min
squash, kabocha 7.5 3 olive oil 15% 90 194 1 h
sweet potatoes 7.5 3 clarified butter 10% 90 194 40
turnips 7.5 3 butter 10% 85 185 15
from page 3-292 *{set weight of vegetable to 100%)

CHESTNUT CONFIT
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Italian chestnuts 180 g 100% @ Cut X into stem side of each chestnut.
@ Blanch for30 s.

@ Peel off receded skins and shell carefully.

Rendered pork fat 90 g 50% @ Vacuum seal chestnuts with fat and salt.
Salt 2g 1% © Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 “F bath for 12 h.
@ Serve, or cool to room temperature and refrigerate.
from page 5-18

SALSIFY FONDANT YieldslOO g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Salsify, peeled and cut lOOg 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
into 5 cm / 2 in lengths
@ Cook sous vide in 95 °C/203 °F bath fori h.
Extra virgin olive oil 20 g 20%
@ Serve, or cool and refrigerate.
Water 15 g 15%
Lime juice 1.5 g 1.5%
Salt Ig 1%
from page 5-18

PLANT FOODS 143

SWEET POTATO FONDANT Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White sweet potatoes 175 g 100% @ Use ring cutter to cut potatoes into tubes 4 cm / V/i in thick and 6 cm/ 2V2 in. in diameter.
(satsuma imo), peeled
Water 125 g 71.4% (D Vacuum seal togetherwith potatoes.
Unsalted butter, melted 27.5 g 15.7% (D Cook sous vide in 95 °C/ 203 °F bath for 45 min.
Salt 4.5 g 2.6% @ Serve, or cool and refrigerate.

from page 5-39

LOBSTER MUSHROOM CONFIT Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lobster mushroom 200 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
Carotene butter (or lOOg 50% (D Cook sous vide in 80 °C /176 °F bath for 40 min.
unsalted butter) (D Serve, or refrigerate until use.
Salt 4g 2%
from page 5-187

VARIATION: Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide for Puree

@ Select and prep ingredients. See the table below for recommendations. @ Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
Peel, stem, or pit the produce to remove coarse or bitter components and table below, along with references to recipes elsewhere in the book.
to simplify handling after cooking. Cut evenly. @ Puree until smooth. Use a blender or food processor, and then pass
(D Vacuum seal. See chapter 9 on Cooking Sous Vide, page 2-192, for details. through a fine sieve, ricer, or food mill. See page 2-424 for more details

Best Bets for Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide for Purees
Cut to Cook
Ingredient (cm) (in) (°C) (°F) (h) See page

apples, peeled quarters, cored 88 190 2 next page

bananas, peel on whole 88 190 12 min 41

blackberries whole 65 149 1

dates, pitted whole 80 176 2 next page

garlic cloves, peeled 88 190 1

kohlrabi 7.5 3 88 190 l'/2

mangoes 5 2 75 167 20 min
mushrooms, dried whole 90 194 1
mushrooms, fresh whole 90 194 2

nettles leaves 95 203 10 min

onions and shallots 7.5 3 88 190 2

pears, peeled halves, cored 88 190 V/2

potatoes, peeled 7.5 3 100 212 35 min 148, 151

rhubarb 7.5 3 88 190 1

rutabagas 7.5 3 85 185 2
spinach leaves 90 194 7 min
squash, winter varieties (E3okkaido, kabocha, kuri) 7.5 3 90 194 45 min 39
tomatoes, peeled and seeded quarters, cored 85 185 25 min
turnips 7.5 3 85 185 30 min
watercress leaves 90 194 10 min 56
from page 3-290

144 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PUREE Yields200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SGALING PROCEDURE

Sugar 40 g 27% © Cook to dark caramel, about 4 min.
Apple cider 80 g 52% @ Deglaze caramel.
(store-bought)
@ Cool syrup to room temperature.

Apples (firm and tart), 150g 100% ® Vacuum seal together with syrup.
peeled, cored, and
® Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 "F bath for 21/2 h.
quartered
® Transferfrom vacuum bagto small pan.
Lemon juice 2.5 g 1.7%
@ Reduce Juice, basting apple constantly, to thick syrup, about 5 min.
Clarified brown butter 2g 1.3%
Salt Ig 0.7%
Xanthan gum 0.3 g 0.2% ® Puree with apples and syrup to smooth consistency.
® Pass through fine sieve.
@ Refrigerate.
from page 5-20

TAMARIND PASTE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tamarind, pulp 350 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
with seeds and fibers
@ Cook sous vide in 80 °C/170 °F bath for 30 min.
Water 125 g 36%
@ Press through fine sieve to form fine paste, and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-99

DATE PUREE Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Dates, pitted 300 g 100% © Vacuum seal together.
Water 90 g 30% © Cook sous vide in 80 °C/176 “F bath for2 h.
Ginger juice 9g 3% @ Blend fully.
Salt 1-2 g 0.4% ® Press through fine sieve.
Black pepper, finely Ig 0.3% ® Discard pulp, and refrigerate puree until use
ground

Cardamom pods 0.2 g 0.1%

from page 5-122

PLANT FOODS 145

VARIATION: Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup
® Make the syrup. Use equal amounts of water and sugar (sucrose or @ Add syrup, and vacuum seal. The syrup column in the table below
other, less sweet sugars such as isomalt or glucose syrup), or adjust the indicates the quantity to use relative to the weight of the fruit. For
sweetness to accommodate yourtaste and the sweetness of the fruit. example, add 20 g of syrup to the sous vide bag for every 100 g of dried
Fully dissolve the sugar in the water. apricot.

@ Select and prep ingredients. The table below offers some good options. @ Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
For easy handling after cooking, peel away tough skins, remove pits, and table below, along with references to recipes elsewhere in this book.
cut evenly.

Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup Until Tender

Syrup Cook

Ingredient Prep (scaling)* (°c) (“F) (h) See page

apples peeled, halved, cored 50% 90 194 3

apricots, dry whole 20% 80 176 1 217

chestnuts peeled, whole 100% 90 194 12

citrus fruits whole 100% 90 194 4

(oranges, limes, lemons. segments 30% 88 190 40 min
mandarins, kumquats) quarters 40% 88 190 12

cranberries whole 10% 88 190 45 min

grapes whole, peeled 10% 83 181 8 min

grapefruits peels with pith only 200% 90 194 5 this page

Buddha's hand lemons cut into fingers 100% 75 167 2

quinces peeled, halved, cored 100% 95 203 8

from page 3-291 *(set weight of fruit to 100%)

PINK GRAPEFRUIT CONFIT Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pink grapefruit peel 200 g 100% ® Cut grapefruit peel into eight equal pieces.
with pith from one @ Blanch three times, starting from cold water each time.
grapefruit, pulp reserved
for garnish
Water 450 g 225% @ Combine water and salt, and bring to boil.

Salt 60 g 30% ® Add peel pieces, and simmerfor 8 min.

® Drain, rinse, and cool.
® Reserve.

Fructose 210 g 105% @ Stirtogetherto make syrup.

Water 210 g 105% ® Add blanched peel pieces to syrup.

Isomalt 92 g 46% ® Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for4 h.

Citric acid 4.5 g 2.25% @ Cool in ice-water bath, remove peel pieces from bag, and reserve syrup.

@ Dice chilled peel pieces finely, and return to syrup.

@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-226

146 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

VARIATION: Cooking Heat-Sensitive Vegetables Sous Vide
© Select and prep ingredients.
Best Bets for Warming Vegetables Sous Vide
@ Vacuum seal. See chapter 9 on Cooking Sous Vide, page 2192, for details.
Warm
@ Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
table at right. Vegetable Prep (■"c) (“F) (min) See page
asparagus whole, stalks peeled 70 158 5

corn cobb 60 140 15

70 158 15

fava beans peeled 75 167 25 256

green whole 75 167 20

chickpeas
kohlrabi thinly sliced 75 167 20
peas peeled 70 158 18 256
spring quartered 70 158 15
turnips
young whole, peeled 75 167 45
carrots
zucchini thinly sliced 75 167 20
from page 3-292

RED WINE CABBAGE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Red cabbage leaves lOOg 100% © Vacuum seal.

© Blanch sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for 4 min.

@ Cool in ice-water bath, and remove from bag immediately.
@ Trim off and discard larger ribs; julienne leaves finely.
© Reserve.
Red wine (dry) 200 g 200% © Combine, and reduce to 200 g.
Red cabbagejuice 180g 180% © Add julienned cabbage leaves, and finish cooking through, about 1 min.
(from about
300 g cabbage)
Pineapple juice (fresh) 65 g 65%
(from about
100 g pineapple)
Red wine vinegar 50 g 50%
Red onion juice 40 g 40%
(from about
100 g onions)
Lime juice 1-2 g 1.2% ® Season cabbage mixture.
Salt to taste
Unsalted butter 40 g 40% ® Warm cabbage and fold in remaining ingredients.
Pineapple, small dice 35 g 35%
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 2%
and coarsely crushed
Lime zest, finely grated 0.5 g 0.5%
from page 5-105

PLANT FOODS 147

 Best Bets for Potato Purees
Recipe Potato solid (scaling) Liquid (scaling) Fat (scaling) Other ingredients (scaling) See page
Robuchon Ratte or 100% whole milk 25% unsalted butter 50% salt 2.0%
pommes puree fingerling creme fraiche 6%
Blumenthal puree Charlotte 100% whole milk 20% unsalted butter 30% salt 2.0%
fluffy mash Russet 100% whole milk 15% unsalted butter 15% salt 1.5%

potato foam Yukon Gold 100% vegetable 60% olive oil 14% salt 1.5% 324
broth or milk
heavy cream 50%
pommes aligot Belle de 100% creme fraiche 25% Cantal or 80% salt 1.5%
Fontenay or Gruyere cheese,
Yukon Gold grated

unsalted butter 10%

roasted potato Yukon Gold 100% Yukon Gold 65% unsalted butter 73% salt 2.5% 5-5
puree dried potato 10% potato juice Ultra-Sperse 3 1.0%
flakes

from page 3-297

POTATO PUREE Yields 700 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yukon Cold potatoes, peeled 375 g 250% @ Juice potatoes in vegetable juicer.
@ Centrifugejuice at27,500^forl h.
(D Decant juice through fine sieve.
@ Vacuum seal.

® Cooksous vide in 90 °C/194 “F bath for20 min.

® Pass through fine sieve, and reserve 150 g.
Potato juice, from above 150 g 100% @ Warm butter over low heat.
Clarified unsalted butter 37.5 g 25% ® Add potato flakes and toast, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 7 min.
Instant potato flakes 37.5 g 25% @ Add potato juice, bring to boil, and remove from heat.
Unsalted butter, melted 200 g 133% @ Fold butter in gently until melted.
@ Reserve 425 g.
Yukon Cold potatoes 325 g 216% @ Bake in 200 °C/ 400 °F oven for 1 h.

® Cut potatoes in half, and scoop out hot flesh.

@ Pass through fine-mesh drum sieve.

® Reserve 280 g of sieved potatoes.

Potato juice-butter mixture, 425 g 283% ® Whisk Ultra-Sperse into potato juice-butter mixture over low heat until warm.
from above
® Whisk in sieved, baked potatoes slowly.
Sieved potatoes, from above 280 g 186%
Ultra-Sperse A (National Starch brand) 3.5 g 2.3%
Crain mustard, optional 30 g 20% @ Season and stir in mustard, if desired.
Salt to taste
from page 5-8

148 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 COOKING PLANT FOODS UNDER PRESSURE

Best Bets for Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods

Ingredient_Advantage_See page
Quince, pears develops flavors and colors 280
Caramelized coconut milk, onion soup 214
Chickpeas, white beans, other legumes browns 5-138
Steel-cut oatmeal, pearl barley, other grains accelerates softening 3-304
Whole citrus fruits, fresh coconut, nuts, other tough plant foods softens
Seeds, including mustard, sesame, sunflower 151
from page 3-300

BAKED BEANS Yields 700 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

Dry navy beans 200 g 100% @ Soak in water, refrigerated, for 8 h.
@ Rinse beans.

@ Place in fresh water, and pressure-cook at gauge

pressure ofl bar/15 psi for25 min.
@ Cool in cooking water.
Brown pork stock 300 g 150% @ Combine to make sauce.
see page 6
© Bringto boil.
Sweet onions, finely minced 65 g 32.5%
@ Skim, and reduce to 250 g, or 150 g for thicker sauce.
Grade B maple syrup 40 g 20%
@ Vacuum seal sauce with cooled beans.
Pomegranate molasses (store-bought) 30 g 15%
@ Cook sous vide in 80 °C/176 °F bath fori h.
Tomato confit 30 g 15%
see page 179

Bourbon (Wild Turkey brand) 20 g 10%

Worcestershire sauce 18g 9%

Dijon mustard 15 g 7.5%

Smoked Hungarian pepper, hydrated, and sieved 8g 4%
Smoked ham hock meat, finely minced 60 g 30% @ Add to cooked beans.
Salt to taste ® Season.
Sherry vinegar to taste
from page 5-77

PRESSURE-COOKED TARBAIS BEANS

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 40 g 27% ® Sweat together in pressure cooker until onions are translucent.
Bacon, thinly sliced 30 g 20%
Rendered duck fat lOg 7%
Garlic, thinly sliced 5.5 g 3.7%
Thyme 0.5 g 0.3%
Black pepper, cracked 0.2 g 0.13%
Brown pork stock 400 g 267% @ Deglaze pressure cooker.
see page 6
Dry tarbais beans (or navy beans) 150 g 100% @ Add to pressure cooker.
Calcium chloride 1g 0.67% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 45 min.
Salt to taste © Season.
from page 5-83

PLANT FOODS 149

CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Young carrots, peeled 500 g 100% (T) Cut into 1.5 cm/ys in pieces.
and cored
Unsalted butter 80 g 16% @ Melt butter in pressure cooker.

Salt 7.5 g 1.5% @ Add carrot slices, salt, and baking soda.

Baking soda 2.5g 0.5% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 20 min to caramelize.

® Pour cold water over cooker to depressurize quickly.

® Blend mixture to smooth puree, and press through fine sieve.

Carrot juice, brought to 635 g 127% @ Blend with puree, and bringto simmer.
simmer and centrifuged (from 1.4 kg of
see page 2-360
carrots)
Water as needed ® Blend into soup to achieve desired viscosity.
Carotene butter (or 60 g 12% @ Blend into soup.
unsalted butter)
optional, see page 40

Young ginger, finely diced 4g 0.8% @ Remove from heat, and season with more salt, if desired.

Tarragon, finely minced 2.5 g 0.5% ® Garnish.

Ajowain seed, lightly 0.5 g 0.1%

crushed
Licorice powder, optional 0.5 g 0.1%
from page 3-301

AUTOCLAVED ONION SOUP Yields 700 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions 1kg 500% ©Juice 500 g of onions, and reserve 200 g of resulting
juice.
@ Slice remaining 500 g of onions thinly.
@ Pack sliced onions into two 475 ml /I pt canning jars,
and reserve.

Onion juice, from above 200 g 100% ® Combine.

Red port (dry) 40 g 20% ® Pour mixture over packed onions, and seal jars. Do
Unsalted butter, cubed 35 g 17.5% not overtighten, or jars may explode.

Sugar 6% ® Cook in 130 °C / 265 °F autoclave for 20 min. The combination of pressure-
12g
Alternatively, pressure-cook in canner or pressure cooking and baking soda can also
Baking soda 1.5 g 0.75%
cooker at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 40 min. be applied to make a baked-potato
Black peppercorns Ig 0.5% consomme. Roast 100 g of russet
(whole) potato skins until golden, combine
Thyme 0.5 g 0.25% with 400 g russet potato juice and
Salt to taste @ Season soup. 1,6 g of baking soda, and then
pressure-cook as described in
Sherry vinegar to taste ® Portion evenly among four bowls.
step 6.
Clarified unsalted butter, 28 g 14% ©Spoon thin layer of melted butter over each portion to
melted (or rendered veal prevent any cloudiness caused by cheese foam.
marrow fat)
Cheese foam 80 g 40% @ Siphon onto soup.
optional, see page 317
from page 3-302

150 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

CRISPY BOILED PEANUTS Yields 120 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200 g 200% ® Combine, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/IS psi for 25 min.
Raw peanuts, shelled lOOg 100% @ Transfer boiled peanuts to dehydratortray.
@ Dehydrate at 60 °C/140 °F for 12 h.
® Deep-fry in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil fori min.
® Drain on paper towels, cool, and reserve.
Water 100 g 100% ® Combine; let seaweed soak for30 min at room temperature.
Dried laver (seaweed) 20 g 20% @ Strain to remove excess liquid from seaweed.
Sugar 20 g 20% ® Dehydrate seaweed at 60 °C/140 °F forl2 h.
Salt 2g 2% ® Deep-fry in 190 “C/ 375 °F oil for about 1 min.
Monosodium glutamate Ig 1% @ Drain on paper towels, cool, and measure 25 g.
(MSG), optional
Demerara sugar 2g 2% ® Grind together.
Chili powder Ig 1% @ Toss with cooled peanuts and reserved seaweed.
Salt 0.5 g 0.5%
from page 3-303

PRESSURE-COOKED SESAME SEEDS

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 250 g 500% @ Boil seeds in water for 2 min to remove bitterness.
Raw sesame seeds 50 g 100% @ Place blanched seeds and water in pressure cooker.
The same procedure used to
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for
pressure-cookthe sesame seeds
0/2 h.
can also be applied to cook
@ Remove mixture from cooker, and cool at room mustard seeds. Simply replace
temperature. the toasted sesame oil with
® Strain seeds, and reserve. good-quality olive oil or mustard

Toasted sesame oil 40 g 80% ® Combine. seed oil.

Salt to taste @ Toss oil with cooled seeds, and season.

from page 3-303

POTATO PUREE Yields! kg

INSPIRED BYJOEL ROBUCHON,
JEEFREY STEINCARTEN, AND HESTON BEUMENTHAE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and skins reserved 500 g 100% Flavors can be infused into the liquids priorto
Water 2 kg 400% using them; for instructions, see page 2-310. You
Sugar 20 g 4% can also use meat or vegetable stocks as liquids.
If using fat-free liquids, supplement with a fat
Unsalted butter, cubed 250 g 50%
such as butterfat (one of ourfavorites), rendered
Whole milk 125 g 25%
chicken fat, or olive oil.
Creme frafche 30 g 6%
Salt to taste
from page 3-296

@ Peel and cut potatoes evenly, saving peels, and then rinse the potatoes. @ Pass potatoes through a sieve for a smoother texture. Robuchon's silky
@ Vacuum seal potatoes with peelings and water(and sugar, if any), and then potatoes recipe, for example, calls forthree passes through the sieve. We
cook sous vide in a 70 °C/158 °F bath for 35 min. Seethe table on page 148 find that one pass through a very fine sieve is enough. At this point, the

for recommended liquids and quantities, which are expressed as a puree can be refrigerated for later use.
percentage of the weight of the potatoes after cooking. You can substitute ® Warm the liquid (includingskin infusion, if prepared), and whisk into the
the liquid from the bagforliquids in the recipe. potato mixture to the desired consistency. Add pureed potato flakes if

@ Remove potatoes from bag, drain, and cool completely. made in step 4.

@ Optionally, saute instant potato flakes in butter until golden. Puree them @ Season with salt, and gently fold in Ultra-Sperse 3 or any other starch

using a mortar and pestle, and reserve for use as a flavor enhancer. called for in the recipe.

@ Boil potatoes until tender. Cookingtimes vary with the variety of potatoes @ Optionally, add cheese, and stir until fully melted and incorporated.

and thickness of cut, butl5-25 min is typical. ® Serve warm.

© Drain, and then press potatoes through ricer orfood mill directly over
cubed butter. Then fold the potatoes with the butter.

PLANT FOODS 151

RISOTTOS

PARBOILING RISOTTO VARIATION: PRESSURE-COOKING RISOTTO

® Freeze a sheet tray.
@ Freeze a sheet tray, and bring a pan of water to a boil.
©Combine grains with twice their weight in water in pressure cooker.
(D Parboil the grains. See the table below for recommended times.
Parcook for time recommended in the table below.
@ Drain with a fine sieve.
@ Follow steps 3-7 at left.
@ Spread the grains evenly in a thin layer on the chilled tray to cool.
® Covertightly with plastic wrap orvacuum seal. Refrigerate until needed, VARIATION: COOKING RISOTTO SOUS VIDE
but for no more than one week.
® Preheat the water bath to 90 °C/194 °F.
® Finish cooking for the time recommended in the table. Follow steps 8-fO
© Vacuum seal the grains with twice their weight in liquid.
on page 153.
@ Parcook. See the cook sous vide column in the table below for
@ Season. If using a non-starchy grain you may need to thicken
recommended times.
(see page 156).
® Chill in an ice-water bath. Refrigerate in the bag until needed.
® Follow steps 6 and 7 at left.

Best Bets for Risotto

Parcooking time
(choose one method) Finish on stove top
Pressure- Cook For For pressure- For
Yield after Boil cook sous vide boiled cooked sous vide
Grain cooking* (min) (min) (min) (min) (min) (min) Sauce orfinish See page
amaranth, rinsed well 190% 13 4 17 11/2 2 2 thicken 156
bomba rice 240% 8 4 n/a 41/2 3 n/a mantecato next
page
brown rice 225% 12 6 30 6 5 4 mantecato
forbidden rice 150% 17 7 23 3 3 3 integral sauce
pearl barley 185% 18 12 25 4 4 5 thicken 156
pine nuts 110% 9 7 25 1 1/2 2 thicken 155
quinoa 235% 7 2 10 2 3 2 mantecato 156
risotto rices 200% 6 3 n/a 3 3 n/a mantecato 153
(Arborio, carnaroli)
short-grain Japanese rice 210% 4 21/2 n/a 3 2 n/a thicken
spelt, soaked overnight 150% 15 12 25 3 4 3 integral sauce 156
steel-cut oats, rinsed 185% 7 5 9 21/2 2 2 thicken 154
wild rice 150% 30 25 45 2/2 2 4 mantecato
from page 3-305 *(final cooked weight of each grain-for example, every 100 g of dry bomba rice yields 240 g when cooked)

STEAMED STICKY RICE Yieldsl50g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White chicken stock or 60 g 100% ® Hand-blend together.
water
© Reserve refrigerated.
see page 6
Coconut milk 40 g 67%
Clarified unsalted butter, 12 g 20%
warmed
Salt 2g 3.5%
Water 480 g 800% © Combine.
Sticky rice 60 g 100% @ Refrigerate forl2 h to soak rice.

® Drain rice. Spread on cheesecloth-lined perforated tray.

® Steam rice for 30 min. Allow to rest, uncovered, for 5 min.

© Warm reserved stock and coconut milk mixture, and fold into cooked rice.
from page 5-119

152 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

RISOTTO MILANESE INSPIRED BY CUALTIERO MARCHESI Yields 250 g

@ Freeze a sheet tray to use for cooling the rice. INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
@ Bringstockto boil. Sous vide vegetable stock 400 g 267%
see page 13
@ Saute onions and shallots. When translucent, add rice, and continue
sauteing until also translucent, aboutS min. olive oil 45 g 30%

@ Deglaze pan with wine. Yellow onions, finely minced 50 g 33%

@ Ladle 100 g of stock into pan, and parcook over high heat. Add Shallots, finely minced lOg 6.5%
two more 100 g ladlefuls of stock, allowing each amount to be fully Carnaroli rice 150 g 100%
absorbed before adding another. Parcook for exactly 6 min. Italian white wine (dry) lOOg 67%
® Drain with a fine sieve, reserving any liquid. Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, 57 g 38%
@ Spread the risotto in athin layer on the chilled tray, and cover tray tightly finely grated
with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until needed. Up to this point, you can Unsalted butter, cubed 30 g 20%
substitute other parcooking techniques such as sous vide or pressure
Saffron threads 0.4 g 0.25%
cooking (see previous page).
Black pepper, finely ground to taste
® To finish cooking, put cooled, parcooked risotto in pan, and add
Salt to taste
remaining stock. Cook for another 3 min for al dente or until desired
texture is achieved. Gold leaf four sheets

® Remove from heat, and fold in cheese, butter, saffron, and pepper. from page 3-306

Season with salt.

@ Spoon one portion of risotto onto center of plate or bowl. Garnish with
gold leaf

PAELLA RICE Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Spanish onions, finely 25 g 20% ® Saute together in pressure cooker until tender and translucent, about 7 min.
minced
Olive oil 20 g 16%
Piquillo pepper, finely 20 g 16%
minced
Sweet pimento pepper, 15 g 12%
finely minced
Smoked bomba rice (or 125 g 100% @ Add rice to onion mixture, and cook until translucent, about 2 min.
regular bomba rice)
see page 183

Paella stock 325 g 260% @ Add wine and 150 g of stock to rice and onion mixture, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
see page 9 1 bar/15 psi for 3 min.
Spanish white wine 35 g 28% @ Run cold water over sealed pressure cooker.
(dry and fruity)
© Drain rice, discarding liquid.
® Spread rice on chilled bakingsheet to speed cooling.
@ Transfer to container, and refrigerate rice and remaining 175 g of paella stock separately until
use.
Saffron threads 2g 1.6% ® Finish cooking paella rice by simmering, while adding remaining stock a little at a time, until
Salt to taste rice is al dente, about5 min.
@ Remove from heat, add saffron, and season with salt.
from page 5-241

PLANT FOODS 153

sous VIDE CLAM AND OAT RISOTTO Yields 585 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 150 g 150% ® Vacuum seal together.

Steel-cut oats, rinsed lOOg 100% @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for 10 min.
with warm water to @ Strain, and reserve liquid.
remove starch
@ Cool oats, and reserve.
Mussel juice 50 g 50%
see page 37

Ceoduck clams, lOOg 100% ® Vacuum seal.

belly meat only ® Cook sous vide in 50 °C/122 °F bath for30 min.

@ Slice thinly, and reserve.

Montpellier butter 100 g 100% ® Melt in pan and then add cooled oats.
see page 298 @ Stir until warmed through, and then add reserved cooking liquid as necessary to achieve
desired consistency.

Salt to taste @ Season oats, and reserve warm.

Wild arugula 25 g 25% ® Combine in small bowl, and toss to coat evenly.

Extra, virgin olive oil 15 g 15% @ Spoon oats in thin layers in warmed bowls.

Leeks, whites only, 15g 15% ® Top each portion with geoduck belly.
fine julienne @ Garnish with salad.
Radishes, finejulienne 15 g 15%

Champagne vinegar lOg 10%

Young ginger, fine 7.5 g 7.5%

julienne
from page 3-308

PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE RISOTTO Yieidseoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, minced 40 g 20% ® Saute shallots in uncovered pressure cooker until translucent.

Vegetable oil 20 g 10%

Carnaroli rice 200 g 100% @ Add to shallots, and saute until slightly toasted and translucent, about 2 min.

White vegetable stock 180 g 90% @ Stir liquids into rice mixture.
see page 6 @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 5/2 min.
Carrot juice 110 g 55%
® Pour cold water over pressure cooker to quickly depressurize.
Celeryjuice 110 g 55%

Vermouth 50 g 25%

Aged Gouda cheese. 100 g 50% ® Mix into hot risotto.

finely grated
Unsalted butter, cubed 12 g 6%

Salt to taste @ Season risotto.

from page 3-308

154 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

BRAISED PINE NUTS WITH WINTER SQUASH Yieidssoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White veal stock 250 g 250% © Puree until smooth, and reserve.
see page 6
Tomato confit lOg 10%
see page 179

Kabocha squash juice 1 kg 1,000% @ Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
(from 4 kg @ Strain through fine sieve to clarify, and reserve.
squash)
White wine (dry) 75 g 75% @ Reduce to 50 g, about 5 min, and reserve.

Olive oil 25 g 25% © Saute until tender.

Shallots, finely minced 25 g 25%

Pine nuts, lightly toasted 100 g 100% @ Add to shallots, and deglaze with wine reduction.
@ Add stock mixture and kabocha squash juice.
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 7 min.

® Cool.
@ Drain, reserving pine nuts and liquid separately.
® Reduce liquid to form glaze.
@ Fold glaze into reserved pine nuts, and cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.

Kuri squash, peeled and 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal.

cut into large dice @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/ 194 °F bath for PA h.
Extra virgin olive oil lOg 10% ® Pass through fine sieve.

Salt to taste ® Season kuri squash puree, and measure 80 g.

Pickled butternut squash. 100 g 100% @ Reheat reserved pine nuts, and fold into kuri squash puree.
drained, from above @ Fold in pickled butternut squash, olive oil, and cheese.
Extra virgin olive oil 15 g 15%
Parmigiano-Reggiano 12 g 12%
cheese, grated
Saffron threads 0.1 g 0,1% @ Season squash mixture.

Black pepper, freshly to taste

ground and sifted
Orange zest, grated to taste

Salt to taste

from page 5-65

PLANT FOODS 155

RAGOUT OF GRAINS Yields 280 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Button mushrooms, peeled 2 kg 2,000% @ Coat mushrooms in oil.
Crapeseed oil 100 g 100% @ Roast in 175 °C / 350 °F oven until golden, about 30 min.
Water 800 g 800% © Place with roasted mushrooms in pot, and simmerforl h.
@ Strain.

© Measure and reserve 1 kg of mushroom stock, divided into four portions

of250 geach.

® Measure and reserve 25 g more of mushroom stock for use during

finishing.
Spelt, soaked for 12 h 35 g 35% @ Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 12 min.

© Drain, cool, and refrigerate.

Pearl barley, rinsed 40 g 40% © Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure ofl bar/15 psi forl2 min.
® Drain, cool, and refrigerate.
Quinoa 35 g 35% ® Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure of 1 bar / 15 psi for 2 min.

@ Drain, cool, and refrigerate.

Sprouted brown rice 35 g 35% @ Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for 6 min.
@ Strain, cool, and reserve.
Raw foie gras, brought to room temperature 20 g 20% ® Drain.
Unsalted butter, cubed, broughtto room 20 g 20% ® Pass through fine sieve, and whisk with butter.
temperature
® Vacuum seal foie gras butter, and refrigerate.
Shiitake mushrooms, 100 g 100% @ Saute mushrooms in duck fat until light golden and tender, about 10 min.
finely minced
® Add cooked grains, and warm through.
Shallots, finely minced 75 g 75%
@ Finish with reserved foie gras butter, brown chicken jus, and mushroom
Seasonal wild mushrooms, finely minced 40 g 40% stock.
Rendered duck fat 45 g 45%
Brown chicken jus 25 g 25%
see page 34
Mushroom stock, from above 25 g 25%
Lemon juice to taste @ Season ragout.
Salt to taste

from page 5-129

ROOT VEGETABLE RISOTTO Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, finely minced 60 g 50% @ Saute shallots until tender.
Olive oil 48 g 40%
White wine 160g 133% @ Deglaze shallots, and reduce until dry.
Carrots, cut like rice 120 g 100% (D Add to shallots.
Potatoes, cut like rice 120 g 100% @ Cook together u ntil vegetables are al dente, about 7 min.
Turnips, cut like rice 120 g 100%
Vegetable stock 40 g 33% © Whisk together in bowl.
see page 6
® Stir into cooked vegetables.
Ultra-SperseS 2.4 g 2%
@ Bring mixture to simmer, and remove immediately from heat.
(National Starch brand)
Squash puree, warmed 60 g 50% ® Stir into risotto.
see page 55

Unsalted butter, cubed 30 g 25% ® Fold into risotto until creamy.

Parmesan cheese, 24 g 20%
finely grated
Salt to taste ® Season.
from page 3-309

156 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

MICROWAVED VEGETABLES

© Select a technique. The table below lists our recommendations. © Evenly arrange them on a microwave-safe dish, or seal as specified.
@ Prepare your ingredients in a uniform size. @ Microwave at the prescribed power level.

Best Bets for Microwaving Vegetables

Time Power
Technique Best Bets Prep Procedure (min) (W)
cooking root vegetables baby beet, carrot, celery root, whole vacuum seal 3-7 800
potato, turnip
cooking leafy greens bok choy, broccoli, cabbage whole place in 2 mm /Xe in of water in microwave- 3-5 800
safe dish, and cover with plastic wrap
cooking bulbs artichoke, cardoon, celery, whole vacuum seal 2-5 600
and fibrous vegetables fennel, leek, onion, scallions
frying herbs basil, carrot top, Italian parsley, leaves arrange on oiled plastic wrap 3-4 600
sage
dehydrating raw vegetable beet, carrot, mushroom, puree spread raw puree thinly onto 12-20 200
purees into powders parsnip, spinach microwave-safe dish
from page 3-311

MICROWAVE-FRIED PARSLEY ADAPTED EROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 8 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Frying oil as needed © Stretch plastic wrap over microwave-safe plate, ensuringthat it is flush with bottom of plate
and adheres tightly to plate's edges.
@ Brush plastic wrap with thin film of oil.
Flat-leaf Italian parsley, 30 g 100% © Lay parsley across plastic wrap, leaving approximately 2 cm / % in between leaves.
leaves only
@ Brush tops of leaves thinly with oil.

© Microwave at 600 W (75% power) for 4 min or until crisp, checking leaves every I'A min
to prevent burning.
Salt to taste ©Transfer fried parsley to papertowel-lined tray.
© Season.

© Reserve in airtight container, preferably lined with silica gel desiccant.

from page 3-312

TOMATO POWDER ADAPTED FROM THOMAS KELLER YieldslSg

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

Tomato pulp, peeled, 200 g 100% © Squeeze tightly in towel to extract excess moisture,
seeded, and finely 0 jp^gad in thin, even layer on microwave tray lined
Inexpensive PVC-based clingfilm
chopped with parchment paper.
should not be used forthis tech¬
© Microwave on low powerfor30-40 min, oruntil pulp nique because it poses health
has dried completely but still retains its color. hazards. Use polyethylene-based
® Cool to room temperature. films instead.

® Grind in coffee orspice grinder until as fine as

possible. Microwave ovens can be used for
® If some pieces do not break up during grinding, sift dehydrating fruits, vegetables, and
powderthrough fine mesh strainer while stirring with herbs in the same manner as this
spoon. recipe. Of course, conventional
methods of dehydration could also
@ Store in covered plastic container.
be used (see page 2-428).
from page 3-312

PLANT FOODS 157

ARTICHOKE AND POTATO CHAAT Yieldseoog(4portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Artichoke hearts, cleaned 200 g 100% @ Combine and vacuum seal.

Water 100 g 50% @ Microwave at 800 W (full power) for 3 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.

Extra, virgin olive oil 40 g 20% (D Remove artichokes very carefully from bag (steam will escape), and cool completely.

Unsalted butter 32 g 16% @ Cut into small dice, and reserve.

Fingerling potatoes 200 g 100% @ Combine and vacuum seal.

(whole) ® Microwave at 800 W for 3 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.
Brown butter 40 g 20% @ Remove potatoes very carefully from bag, and cool completely.
see page 4-213
® Cut into small dice, and reserve.
Water 25 g 12.5%

Saffron threads 0.1 g 0.05%

Masala Sev (chickpea 30 g 15% ® Toss with diced artichokes and potatoes.
flour noodles),
store-bought
Cashews, coarsely lOg 5%
crushed
Cilantro leaves (small) lOg 5%

Dates, thinly sliced lOg 5%

Mint, fine julienne 5g 2.5%

Limejuice to taste @ Season chaat, and divide into equal portions.

Salt to taste

Yogurt foam 100 g 50% ® Garnish chaat generously.

see page 329
Tamarind paste 40 g 20%
see page 145

Chaat masala to taste

see page 50
from page 3-313

Yields 350 g (4 portions)

SICHUAN BOKCHOY
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Hoisin sauce (store- 20 g 10% ® Combine, and bringto simmer.
bought) @ Cool and reserve.
Fermented black bean 15 g 7.5%
and chili paste (store-
bought)
Shaoxing wine 8g 4%

Soy sauce 5g 2.5%

Toasted-sesame oil Ig 0.5%

Shiitake mushroom caps lOOg 50% @ Blanch in boiling waterfor2 min.

(smallest possible) @ Transfer to bowl, and reserve.

Rice wine vinegar lOOg 50% ® Whisk together until fully dissolved.

Water 50 g 25% ® Bring brine to simmer, and remove from heat.

Sugar 25 g 12.5% @ Pour warm brine over blanched mushrooms.

Salt 3g 1.5% ® Cool completely to pickle mushrooms, and reserve.

Baby bok choy, cleaned 200 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.

and cut in half ® Microwave at 800 W (full power) for 2 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.
Water 50 g 25% ® Remove bok choy from bag, and serve immediately.

Pressure-cooked sesame 50 g 25% @ Garnish bok choy with spicy sauce, pickled mushrooms, sesame seeds, and chili oil.
seeds @ Serve with steamed rice.
see page 151
Dried chili oil lOg 5%
see page 28
from page 3-313

158 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Best Bets for Naked Frying
© Prep. Preheat frying oil to 190 °C/ 375 °F, and cut vegetables to dimensions indicated.
Prep Deep-fry
The dried shiitake must be hydrated with warm water for at least 30 min before frying.
Ingredient (cm) (in) (min)
@ Fry for the time indicated in the table. The vegetables typically turn very dark brown and look
artichokes, baby quartered 3 almost overcooked.

asparagus, green whole 3 @ Drain, and transfer fried vegetables to a tray lined with paper towels. Season with salt.
and white
bok choy quartered 4
broccoli, florets 2.5 1 3 TOASTED GARLIC CHIPS Yields 24 pieces

Brussels sprouts halved 5 INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

cauliflower, florets 2.5 1 4 Garlic cloves 50g 100% © Slice 1 mm //e in thick.
cucumber 2.5 1 4 Milk, cold as needed @ Cover garlic slices with milk, heat to 70°C/158°F,
daikon radish 1.25 0.5 8 and drain.

eggplant 2.5 1 5 @ Repeat two more times.

Frying oil as needed © Deep-fry garlic slices in 160 °C/ 320 °F oil until
green beans whole 3
golden and crisp, about 5 min.
scallions whole 2
Salt to taste © Season.
shiitake, fresh whole 4
@ Serve or store in cool, dry place.
shiitake, dried whole 2 from page 5-9
squash, autumn 2.5 1 3
sunchoke 1.25 0.5 3
zucchini 1.25 0.5 11/2
from page 3-320

DEEP-FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS Yields350g(fourportions)

ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Fish sauce 130 g 26% © Whisk together until sugar dissolves.

Lime juice 70 g 14% @ Reserve sauce.

Sugar 60 g 12%

Water 55 g 11%

Rice wine vinegar 25 g 5%

Garlic clove, minced 5g 1%

Bird's eye chili, minced 3g 0.6%

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.53 g 0.1%

CP Kelco brand) (0.15%)*
Rice puffs 20 g 4% @ Measure individually, and reserve for garnish.

Cilantro stems, lOg 2%

1 cm /ya in long
Small mint leaves 4g 0.8%

Brussels sprouts 500 g 100% @ Peel off tough outer leaves until only cores remain, about 2 cm /14 in each in diameter.

® Slice in half.
Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry sprouts in 180 °C/355 °F oil until tender and very dark, about 5 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
® Toss with sauce, arrange on plates, and garnish.
from page 3-321 *(% of total weight of firstfive ingredients)

PLANT FOODS 159

POMMES PONT-NEUF INSPIRED BY HESTON BLUMENTHAE Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Russet potatoes 500 g 100% @ Cut into batons 1.5 cm /Yb in thick by 1.5 cm / Ya in tall.

Water 500 g 100% (D Whisk sugar, salt, and baking soda into water.

Sugar 15 g 3% @ Add potatoes and water mixture to pot, and boil for about 20 min until very tender

Salt 7.5 g 1.5% and nearly falling apart.

Baking soda 0.75 g 0.15% @ Drain, and place warm potatoes on wire rack in vacuum chamber.
@ Pull vacuum until surfaces of chips are dry and chips feel cool, 3-4 min.

© Optionally, vacuum cool again, oraircooi in single layer.

@ Blanch in 150 "C / 300 °F oil until chips are mostly cooked but still pale, about 7 min.

® Deep-fry in 220°C/ 430 °F oil until crisp, about 2 min.

® Drain on papertowels.

from page 3-323

A vacuum treatment both cools PECTINASE-STEEPED FRIES Yields 350 g

and dries the exterior of the fries.
ADAPTED EROM N ILS NOREN AND DAVE ARNOLD
Heston Blumenthal found that
this process produces a thicker, INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
crunchier crust. He does the Russet potatoes 500 g 100% ® Cut into batons 1.5 cm / % in thick by 1.5 cm /Ya in tall.
vacuum cooling and drying step
@ Rinse thoroughly to remove surface starch.
twice: first after boiling, and again
Water 500 g 100% © Combine with rinsed potatoes.
after parcooking.
Air-cooling the chips afterthe Pectinex Ultra SP-L 2g 0.4% ® Soak fori h, and drain.
boiling step yieldsathinner, more (Novozymes brand)
delicate crust. To air-cool the fries, Water 500 g 100% ® Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
place them in a single layer on a lOg 2% ® Steam atlOO °C/ 212 °F for20 min.
Salt
wire rack. You can use a household
@ Drain and cool.
fan to speed the process.
We find that vacuum cooling and ® Blanch in 162 °C/ 325 °F oil for3 min, and cool.
drying after parfrying produces a ® Deep-fry in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until crisp, about 3 min.
chip that is too dry for our tastes. @ Drain on papertowels.
We prefer to vacuum cool after
from page 3-324
boiling, but to air cool after
parfrying.

STIR-FRIED FIDDLEHEAD FERNS Yields 155 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Fiddlehead ferns 120 g 100% @ Stir-fry fiddleheads in very hot oil for 2 min, moving them constantly to ensure blistering
White chicken stock or 40 g 33% without burning. Douse with stock or water, a little at a time, until cooked through.
water
see page 11
Frying oil 20 g 16.7%
Alsatian bacon, 20 g 16.7% @ Add garnishes and continue stir-frying for 20 s.
small dice
Scallions, fine julienne lOg 8.3%
Garlic, germ removed 6g 5%
and finely minced
Black peppercorns, 2.5 g 2% @ Season garnished fiddleheads, and arrange on plates.
coarsely ground
Salt to taste

from page 5-119

160 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

STARCH-INFUSED FRIES Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE_

Russet potatoes 500 g 100% @ Cut into batons 1.5 cm / Yain thick by 1.5 cm /% in tall, and rinse thoroughly to remove surface
starch.
Water 100 g 20% (D Combine with rinsed potatoes.
Potato starch 50 g 10% @ Vacuum seal.

@ Refrigerate for 30 min, and drain.

Water 500 g 100% © Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
Salt 10 g 2% ® Steam atl00°C/212°Ffor20min.
@ Drain.

® Place hotfries on wire rack in vacuum chamber.

® Pull vacuum until surfaces of fries are dry.
@ Blanch in 162 °C / 325 "F oil for 3 min, and cool.
® Deep-fry in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until crisp, about 3 min.
® Drain on paper towels.
from page 3 325

ULTRASONIC FRIES Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Russet potatoes 500 g 100% @ Cut into batons 1.5 cm / 54 in thick by 1.5 cm /% in tall, and rinse thoroughly to remove surface
starch.
Water 500 g 100% @ Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
Salt 10 g 2% @ Cook at 100 °C/212 °F for 20 min.
® Transfer to ultrasonic bath, and cavitate for 45 min.
® Flip bag, and cavitate in ultrasonic bath for another 45 min.
® Drain.
@ Place hotfries in single layer on wire rack.
® Cool at room temperature, with orwithoutfan.
@ Blanch in 162 °C/325 "F oil for3 min, and cool.
® Deep-fry in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until golden and very crisp, about 5 min.

@ Drain on papertowels.
from page 3-325

STARCH-INFUSED ULTRASONIC ERIES Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Russet potatoes 500 g 100% @ Cut into batons 1.5 cm/% in thick by 1.5 cm/54 in tall,
and rinse thoroughly to remove surface starch.
Water 500 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together with potatoes.
Salt 10 g 2% @ Cook at 100 “C/212 °F for 20 min. The chips must be cooled and dried
both afterthe boilingstep and after
@ Drain. Cool, and reserve.
parfrying. Vacuum cooling and
Water 100 g 20% ® Whisk together.
air cooling both work, but yield
Potato starch 50 g 10% ® Vacuum seal carefully with cooked potatoes. different textures—see page 3-322.
@ Cavitate in ultrasonic bath for 45 min.
® Flip and cavitate in ultrasonic bath foranother45 min.
We use a 21 I / 5'/2 gal Branson 8510
® Drain.
ultrasonic bath set at a frequency
@ Place hot fries on wire rack in vacuum chamber. of 40 kHz for making these fries.
@ Pull vacuum until surfaces of fries are dry.
@ Blanch in 162°C/325 °F oilfor3 min, and cool.
® Deep-fry in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until crisp, for 3 min.
® Drain on papertowels.
from page 3-325

PLANT FOODS 161

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE CHIPS
Best Bets for Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips
Slice Deep-fry
Ingredient (mm) (in) (°c) (°F) (s) @ Slice evenly. See the table at left for suggested ingredients and
thicknesses. Use a meat sheer, if available, to produce slices of
apple 1 150 300 105 uniform thickness.
Asian pear 1 162 325 100 @ Mix Crisp Coat UC or potato starch with water to make a slurry.
carrot 1 162 325 40 Optionally, add Methocel KfOOM to the slurry to reduce oil.

® Dip slices in starch slurry, and arrange them in one layer in a sous
celery root 1-3 '732” 14 150 300 60
vide bag. Vacuum seal. A full vacuum impregnates the slices with
cucumber(and pickles)* 1-3 142“ 14 150 300 15-25
starch, yielding a texture similar to that of a thin potato chip.
eggplant* 3 Ya 150 300 90 @ Remove slices from bag, and pat dry.
jalapefio* 3 Ya 150 300 15 ® Dehydrate (optional). For delicate fruits and vegetables such as
lotus root 1-3 142“ 14 162 325 15-25 tomatoes, cucumbers, and jalapefios, dehydrate the starch-coated
slices at 50 °C /122 °F until completely dry, up to 2 h.
melon 1 Y32 150 300 105
® Deep-fry until crisp and golden. See the table fora recommended
pineapple 1 732 150 300 120
oil temperature and frying time.
potato 1-3 Y32“14 162 325 35 ® Drain on absorbent papertowels, and season with salt.
strawberry* 3 Ya 150 300 40
tomato* 3 Ya 150 300 15
watermelon 1 Y32 150 300 105
from page 3-328 *{dehydrate at 60 °C/140 °Ffor 7 h beforefrying)

WATERMELON CHIPS Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

Seedless watermelon flesh, skin 200 g 100% Adding 0.5% of Methocel KIOOM by weight of slurry can reduce the oil
and pith removed (from one whole)
uptake of the chips after frying by up to 20%. For regular potato chips,
Water lOOg 50% simply compress the potato slices with a stock solution of 100% water and
Crisp Coat UC (National Starch brand) 50 g 25% 0.5% Methocel KIOOM before frying for similar results. The film-forming
or raw potato starch properties of methylcellulose prevent the vacuoles from absorbing as much
oil upon cooling.
Salt to taste
Neutral oil as needed
from page 3-328

RESTRUCTURED POTATO CHIPS Yields 100 g @ Combine all ingredients.

@ Blend (optional). For puffed chips only, puree with hand blender or
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
blender until smooth, about 1 min.
Water 200 g 400%
@ Cast mixture into circulartemplate, 2 mm /%2 in thick and 7.5 cm /3 in.
Instant potato flakes 50 g 100% in diameter.
Raw potato starch (or Ultra-Crisp CS 18.5g 37% ® Bake in 175 °C / 350 °F oven on tray lined with silicone mat until golden
or Crisp Coat UC for puffed chips) and crisp, about 9 min.
Neutral oil 15 g 30% ® Turn over (optional). For puffed chips only, flip and bake another
Salt 1.5g 3% 8-10 min to ensure they are completely baked through.
from page 3-330

To make puffed chips, use Ultra-Crisp CS or Crisp Coat UC rather than raw
potato starch, and include step 5. For a great flavor addition, replace the
water with cheese-infused water (see page 20).

162 VOtUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

BATTER-FRYING
@ Select a batter. Use the Batter Textures table at right to choose an option
thatyields the texture you desire. Batter Textures
@ Mix flours or starches with seasonings. Ingredients and proportions are Crisp Crunchy Extra crispy
listed in the table below, airy tempura, whole egg
@ Blend liquid with rising agents.
lacy yeast crispy tempura
@ Whisk liquid into dry mixture.
thin cider
© Pour batter into siphon (forsiphoned batters only). Charge siphon with
rich egg yolk
the gas listed in the scaling column.
@ Coat food with an adhesive (optional). Batters cling better to low- dense beignet cornmeal
moisture foods if you first dip the food in milk, eggs, or another sticky from page 3-332
substance.
@ Coat evenly in dry starch (see page 162). Shake off any excess.
@ Dispense batter into bowl, and coat the food evenly.
@ Fry. For recommended frying temperatures and times, see individual
recipes.
® Pat dry, and season. Salt is appropriate for most foods.

Best Bets for Batters

See
Batter Flour or starch (scaling) Seasoning (scaling) Liquid (scaling) Rising agent (scaling) page
tempura flour 67% n/a sake 100% baking powder 2% 5-197
rice flour 67% vodka 75% siphon* two charges
malt syrup 8% of CO,
whole sweet-potato starch 37.5% salt 2% blonde ale 100% dry yeast 0.6%
egg flour 37.5% egg 15% siphon* two charges
of N,0
yeast Trisol (Texturas 90% salt 1% water 100% fresh yeast 2% 164
brand)
flour 65%
crispy flour 28.5% salt 3% water 100.0% baking powder 0.5%
tempura cornstarch 12.5% vodka 12.5% siphon* two charges
Ultra Crisp CS 10.0% ofN,0
(National Starch
brand)
cider tapioca starch 35% n/a hard cider 100% baking soda 0.75% 166
flour 25% siphon* two charges
xanthan gum 0.15% ofN,0
egg yolk potato starch 50% salt 2.5% ice water 100% thermal shock
flour 35% Old Bay 1.0% malt vinegar 30%
glutinous rice flour 15% salt egg yolk 8%
beignet flour 33.0% salt 2% carbonated 100% baking soda 1.5%
tapioca starch 33.0% water
trehalose 16.5% vodka 11%
cornmeal cornmeal 40.0% salt 1.5% buttermilk 100% Methocel SGA150 1.25%
flour 17.5% cayenne pepper 0.5% baking powder 0.60%
from page 3-333 *(we use 11 siphons; fill siphon at least halffull, and adjust quantity of charges as needed)

PLANT FOODS 163

 Yields 600 g
SPOT PRAWN AND LOTUS ROOT
TEMPURA WITH SMOKED WHITE SOY SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shrimp meat 150 g 75% ® Combine, and blend to fine paste.
Lard 15 g 7.5%
Japanese potato starch lOg 5%
Egg yolk 8g 4%

Egg white 7g 3.5%

Sake 7g 3.5%
White soy sauce 7g 3.5%
Ginger, mashed to paste 2g 1%
Salt 2g 1%
Young lotus roots, peeled 90g 45% @ Fill cavities of lotus root slices with shrimp paste.
and sliced 1 cm /% in thick @ Refrigerate until firm, about 30 min.

Live spot prawns 200 g 100% @ Peel.

(four prawns) ® Refrigerate.
Sake, cold 150 g 75% ® Combine flour, rice flour, and baking powder for tempura batter.
Vodka 112 g 56% ©Blend flour mixture with sake, vodka, and malt syrup until well incorporated.
All-purpose flour 100 g 50% ©Transfer batterto siphon, and charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges. Siphon batter into
Rice flour lOOg 50% bowl.

Malt syrup 12g 6% ® Dip lotus root slices into batterto coat evenly.

Baking powder 3g 1.5% @ Deep-fry lotus root slices and spot prawns in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until crisp and golden, about
2 min.

Smoked white soy sauce 100 g 50% ® Arrange on plates, and serve with smoked white soy sauce for dipping.
see page 183

from page 5-201

FRIED PICKLES Yields250g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200 g 80% ® Mix to make batter.
All-purpose flour 130 g 52% @ Allow to rest at room temperature for30 min.
Trisol (Texturas brand) 180 g 72%
(55%)*
Yeast (fresh) 4g 1.6%
(0.8%)**
Salt 2g 0.8% @ Season batter, and reserve.
Pickling cucumbers 250 g 100% @ Cut into slices 6 mm / lA in thick, and reserve.
White wine vinegar 200 g 80 g ® Combine to make brine, and let cool.
Water 150 g 60%
Sugar 125 g 50%
Salt 12.5g 5%
Garlic, thinly sliced 6.5 g 2.5%
Gelery seeds 0.5 g 0.3%
Ghili flakes 0.1 g 0.05%
Dill 2g 0.8% ® Vacuum seal with cucumberslices and cooled brine.
© Refrigerate for at least 12 h.
frying oil as needed ® Dip pickle slices in batter.
@ Deep-fry in 200 °C/390 °F oil for 2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
from page 5-75 *(% of total weight of water and flour used for batter)
**(% of total weight of first three ingredients)

164 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

CRISPY HALIBUT CHEEK ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

All-purpose wheatflour 200 g 50% @ Sift together, and reserve.
Rice flour 200 g 50%
Salt 4g 1%
Baking powder 3g 0.75%
Vodka 350 g 87.5% (D Blend.
Water 200 g 50% @ Whisk into dry mixture until completely incorporated.
Malt syrup 12 g 3% @ Pour into 1 1 siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
® Shake vigorously and reserve siphon refrigerated.
Halibut cheeks, cleaned 400 g 100% © Dust Trisol evenly over cheeks.
of connective tissue (four cheeks) @ Skewer each cheek.
Trisol (Texturas brand) lOOg 25% ® Siphon batter into bowl.
@ Coat cheeks evenly with foam batter.
Neutral oil as needed @ Pry in 200 °C / 400 °F oil.

@ Lift extra batter from bowl with fork, and drizzle onto cheeks to build lacy surfaces.
Make sure to flip cheeks in oil while drizzling batter, to build an even crust.
@ Remove each cheek from oil when its core reaches 50 °C / 122 °F, about 6 min.
@ Drain on papertowels.
from page 3-334

THE COLONEL'S FRIED CHICKEN INSPIRED BY COLONEL HARLAN SANDERS Yields800g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken, drumsticks 800 g 100% @ Clean, pat dry on papertowels, and reserve.
Cake flour 200 g 25% @ Combine and reserve.
All-purpose bleached 160g 20%
wheatflour
Whole wheat flour 32 g 4%
Black peppercorns lOg 1.25% ©Grind spices and herbs finely.
White peppercorns 8g 1% @ Combine with flour mixture.
Paprika 4.5 g 0.56%
Onion powder 4g 0.5%
Caraway seeds 2.5 g 0.31%
Nutmeg 1.5g 0.18%
Sage, rubbed 0.7 g 0.08%
Allspice, ground 0.5 g 0.06%
Thyme 0.5 g 0.06%
Cayenne pepper 0.3 g 0.03%
Bay leaf 0.1 g 0.01%
Salt 24 g 3% © Combine with seasoned flour mixture, and reserve.
Monosodium glutamate 14 g 1.75%
(MSG)
Whole milk 120 g 15% ® Blend together until smooth.

Eggs 60 g 7.5% @ Dip chicken pieces into egg mixture, and dredge in seasoned flour mixture.
© Pressure-fry coated chicken in 160 °C/325 °F oil for 7 min. Alternatively, fry in 180 °C / 360 °F
oil until golden and cooked through, about 12 min.
from page 3-336

PLANT FOODS 165

 MODERNIST FRIED CHICKEN Yields! kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken legs with skin 1 kg (four legs) 100% ® Remove thigh bones from legs; leave lower leg bones in.
Water 500 g 50% @ Whisk together until salt dissolves to make brine.
Salt 35 g 3.5% @ Vacuum seal with prepared chicken legs.

@ Brine in refrigerator for 5 h, or vacuum tumble for30 min (see page 3-152), and then drain.
Chicken skin, from whole 20 g 2% ® Cut pieces of skin to match dimensions of exposed thigh meat.
chicken
© Dust Activa over cut skin pieces and exposed, boneless thigh meat.
Activa RM lOg 1%
@ Press matching skin pieces to meat so that no skin remains exposed.

© Wrap each leg tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate 12 h to let proteins bond.
Water 50 g 5% @ Mix until baking soda dissolves.
Baking soda 5g 0.5%

Vodka 450 g 45% ® Mix with baking soda solution to make brine.

® Unwrap chicken legs, and vacuum seal individually with equal portions of brine.
@ Brine, refrigerated, for3 h, orvacuum tumble for 30 min.
@ Remove from bag, and pat dry.
® Vacuum seal dry chicken legs.

© Cook sous vide in 64 °C/ 147 °F bath for 2 h.

© Blot dry.
Spray-dried buttermilk 15 g 1.5% © Whisk togetherspice mixture, and reserve.
see page 59 or store-bought

Cayenne pepper 2g 0.2%

Bay leaf, powdered Ig 0.1%

Black pepper, coarsely Ig 0.1%

ground
Frying oil as needed @ Fry thighs in 225 °C/ 435 °F oil for 4 min.

© Drain on paper towels, and dust with spice mixture.

from page 3-337

OYSTER BEIGNET Yields 12 beignets

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tapioca starch 85 g 35% @ Mix together.
All-purpose flour 60 g 25%
Baking soda 2g 0.85%
Xanthan gum 0.4 g 0.17%
Hard cider 240 g 100% @ Whisk into dry mixture to form batter.
© Transfer batter to 1 1 whipping siphon.

© Charge batter-filled siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges and shake vigorously.
Kumamoto oysters 12 oysters ® Toss oysters in cornstarch and skewer them.
Cornstarch as needed © Dispense batter into container, and dip oysters in batterto coat fully.
Salt to taste @ Deep-fry oysters briefly in 200 °C / 390 °F oil until crispy, golden, and just warmed through,
about 2 min.

® Remove from skewers, dry on paper towels, and season with salt.
from page 5-28

166 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

BREADING

Breadings
Coating Density Texture Oil absorption @ Prep the core ingredient, if required.
bread crumbs heavy crispy moderate @ Cut into even pieces. If the food pieces differ greatly in size,
processed grain (cream of wheat, light crunchy moderate some will overcook while others don't cook enough.

rolled oats, instant polenta, to crispy @ Dust food evenly with an adhesive coating. The Adhesives

pressed rice flakes) table lists some that we recommend.

@ Dip in a liquid coating, and drain excess. See the Liquids
freeze-dried vegetable flakes light very crispy high
table for suggestions.
(carrot, corn, onion, potato)
© Roll food in breadingto cover. All ofthe options listed in the
puffed snacks varies crunchy low Breadings table can work well.
@ Refrigerate breaded food until crust is firm, at least! h.

Adhesives @ Deep-fry until golden. We fried these in 190 °C/375 °F oil

Coating Stickiness Flavor for about 90 s. For other recommended temperatures and
times, see individual recipes.
albumin powder acceptable egg © Drain on papertowels, and season.
flour good raw flour
starch good varies, raw starch
modified starch very good neutral
Trisol (Texturas brand) very good neutral

Liquids
Coating Film thickness Film flavor
whole egg thick egg
egg yolk medium egg
egg white foam medium egg
slurry of 100% starch, 30% water thin neutral
methylcellulose KIOOM, slurry, or thin methylcellulose
foam (100% water, 0.5% KIOOM)
from page 3-338-339

CRISPY OKRA Yields 120 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Okra, cut in half lOOg 100% ® Combine, and let marinate for5 min.
lengthwise @ Drain.
Lime juice 2g 2%
Salt 2g 2%
Chili powder Ig 1%
Chickpea flour 35 8 35% © Coat okra in chickpea flour, and shake off excess.
Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry okra until crispy and golden, about3 min.
© Drain on papertowel-lined tray.
from page 3-338

PLANT FOODS 167

 CROMESQUIS INSPIRED BY MARC MENEAU Yields 1.5 kg(50 cromesquis)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Red port, chilled 450 g 129% © Disperse gelatin in port.
160 Bloom gelatin 50 g 14.3% @ Simmer until reduced to 200 g, and reserve warm.
Raw duck foie gras 350 g 100% © Cut foie gras into cubes.
@ Sear until exteriors are golden but centers are still raw, about 1 min, and reserve warm.
Heavy cream 600 g 171% ® Whisk together and season.
Black truffle juice (store- 50 g 14.3%
bought) or mushroom jus
see page 37
Salt 15 g 4.3%
Black pepper, ground 0.2 g 0.05%
Ultra-Sperse 3 6g 1.7% ® Dry blend powders, and disperse into cold cream mixture.
(National Starch brand) (0.5%)*
@ Bringtosimmerwhile blendingto hydrate fully.
lota carrageenan 2.4 g 0.68%
® Blend in warm port reduction and foie gras until smooth.
(0.2%)*
Low-acyl gellan 1.8g 0.51%
(Kelcogel E, CP Kelco (0.15%,)*
brand)

Black truffle, finely 30 g 8.5% @ fold into hot puree.

minced
@ Cast mixture in nonstick mold in layers 2 cm / % in thick.
® Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.

@ Cut foie gras gel into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.

Trisol (Texturas brand) as needed @ Dredge cubes in Trisol.
Eggs 300 g 85% 0 Blend until smooth.
Egg yolks 75 g 21.4%
Line, dry bread crumbs 150 g 43% (H) Coat floured cubes in egg mixture, and then dredge in bread crumbs.
@ Refrigerate cubes for 2 h to harden crusts.
Eryingoil as needed (H) Fry cubes in 190°C/375°Foiluntil golden, about 2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
from page 3-340 *(% of total weight of first five ingredients)

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Green tomatoes, cored 300 g 100% © Blanch fori min.
@ Shock in ice-water bath,
@ Peel offskins.

® Cut slices 8 mm / Me in thick.

Cultured buttermilk 150 g 50% ® Blend to make wash.
Eggs, blended 150 g 50%
Cornmeal lOOg 35% ® Mix to make cornmeal breading.
Panko 25 g 8.5% @ Dredge tomato slices in wash.
Black pepper 0.8 g 0.25% ® Coat slices with cornmeal breading.
Cayenne pepper 0.2 g 0.05%
Canola oil as needed ® Deep-fry in 200 ‘■C/390 °F oil for2 min.
@ Drain on papertowels.
Salt to taste ® Season.
from page 5-74

168
VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL
CORN CROQUETTA INSPIRED BY DAVID KINCH Yields 350 g (24 croquettas)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Frozen sweet corn, 200 g 67% @ Combine, and puree until smooth.
thawed
@ Strain through fine sieve, and reserve 300 g of corn puree.
Heavy cream 90 g 30%
Salt 5g 1.7%
Cayenne pepper 3g 1%
Vanilla seeds and pulp T5g 0.5%
(from one
vanilla bean)
Corn puree, from above 300 g 100% @ Disperse gelatin in 100 g of reserved corn puree.
160 Bloom gelatin 9g 3% @ Warm mixture until gelatin is fully dissolved.
® Whisk in remaining reserved corn puree.
® Cast mixture in iayer2.5 cm /I in thick in nonstick mold.
@ Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
Water lOOg 33% ® Bring water to simmer.
Methylcellulose E4M 1.5g 0,5% @ Blend in methylcellulose until fully dissolved, 2-3 min.
@ Refrigerate at least 4 h to hydrate.
Crisp Coat UC 5g 1.7% ® Cut gelled puree into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.
(National Starch brand)
® Dust cubes evenly with Crisp Coatto coat.

® Whip hydrated methylcellulose with electric whisk to form stiff and foamy peaks.
@ Coat cubes evenly with whisked methylcellulose, and reserve.
Corn powder, freeze- 50 g 16.7% @ Mix to make breading.
dried
® Dredge foam-covered cubes in breading mix.
see page 188
@ Refrigerate cubes to firm and bind crusts, about 30 min.
Panko 50 g 16.7%
Frying oil as needed @ Fry cubes in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until golden, about iy2 min.
@ Drain on papertowels.
Salt to taste @ Season.
from page 3-341

PORK TROTTER BEIGNET Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown pork stock 600 g 120% ® Reduce to about 100 g, until glaze is achieved.
see page 6
@ Cool and reserve.
Water 1 kg 200% @ Pressure-cook together at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for2y2 h.
Pork trotter 500 g 100% ® Remove bones from trotter and snout, and separate skin and collagen from meat.
Pork snout 250 g 50% © Dice skin and meat finely, keeping them separate.
® Combine 120 g of meat and 30 g of skin, and reserve.
Shallots, minced 200 g 40% @ Cook together until shallots and mushrooms are
Neutral oil 50 g 10% very tender, about 20 min.

Black trumpet 40 g 8% ® Remove from heat.

mushrooms, minced
Cured ham, brunoise 40 g 8% ® Fold with cooked pork into shallot mixture.
Grain mustard lOg 2% @ Whisk in reserved pork glaze.
Fine salt 2-2 g 0.44% ® Cast onto silicone mat in layer 1.5 cm / 3/4 in thick.
Black pepper, coarsely 0.2 g 0.04% @ Refrigerate until set, at least 3 h.
ground
® Cut into cubes.
Nutmeg, grated 0.1 g 0.02%
Eggs, whisked 200 g 40% @ Dredge each beignet cube in Methocel KIOOM until evenly coated.
Dried brioche crumbs lOOg 20% @ Roll cubes in egg, and then coat with brioche crumbs.
Methocel K100M (Dow 30 g 6% @ Refrigerate for at least 1 h before frying, to firm crusts.
brand)
® Deep-fry cubes in 190 °C/ 375 “F oil for 1 min, and then drain on papertowels.
from page 5-38

PLANT FOODS 169

ONION RINGS Yields 250 g(about 10 onion rings)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Onions, thinly sliced 750 g 375% @ Saute until light golden, about 10 min and cool.
Unsalted butter lOOg 50% d) Vacuum seal cooked onions with water.
Water 150 g 75% (D Cook sous vide in 90 “C/194°F bath fori h.
Onion stock, cold 45 g 22.5% @ Strain and cool onion stock. Measure 245 g for recipe.
see page 11
© Bring onion stock to simmer, and disperse Methocel A15C and salt.
Methocel A15C (Dow 4g 2%
® Refrigerate Methocel solution for at least 8 h to hydrate fully, and reserve cold.
brand)
Salt 1.5g 0.75%
Onion stock, cold, from 200 g 100% @ Combine and blend all ingredients in food processorto fine, smooth paste.
above ® Vacuum seal.
Tapioca starch 120 g 60% @ Cook sous vide in 93 °C/ 200 °F bath for 20 min.
Salt 3g 1.5% @ Cool completely until hardened, at least 12 h.

® Remove from bag, and grate with Microplane.

@ Dehydrate at 70 °C/ 160 °F until hardened, about 3 h.
® Reserve breading in airtight container.
Yellow onions, thinly 500 g 250% @ Brown onions over low heat.
sliced @ Deglaze with water as needed until very tender, about 40 min.
Neutral oil 50 g 25% @ Drain excess oil, and blend to smooth puree.
® Cool completely, and measure 100 g.

@ Blend 100 g of puree with Methocel solution, and transfer mixture to pastry bag.
@ Pipe onion ring shapes onto silicone mat.
@ Freeze.
Tapioca starch lOOg 50% @ Dredge frozen onion rings in tapioca starch, and shake off excess.

Egg, blended 50 g 25% @ Dip rings in egg.

Frying oil as needed @ Dredge rings in breading until evenly coated, and place on silicone mat.

@ Deep-fry rings in 190 °C/ 375 °F oil for 2 min, ensuring that puree stays inside coating.
@ Drain on papertowels.
from page 3-342

170 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

RAZOR CLAM "TAKOYAKI" Yields 250g(10balls)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Live razor clams 900 g 450% ® Vacuum seal together.

Ginger, thinly sliced 5g 2.5% @ Steam at 100 °C / 212 “F for 6 min.
Scallions, thinly sliced 5g 2.5% @ Strain clam juice, and reserve 50 g.
Sake (dry) 30 g 15% @ Shuck clams, reserving any additional juice.
® Mince clam meat, and reserve.

Tokyo negi (Japanese 225 g 112.5% ® Sweat until tender, about3 min.
leek), finely minced
Unsalted butter, cubed 40 g 20%

Heavy cream 150 g 75% @ Add, and bring to simmer.

Clam juice, from above 50 g 25% ® Strain, and measure 200 g of clam cream.

® Refrigerate until cold.

Clam cream, from above 200 g 100% @ Whisk into cold clam cream, and bringto simmerto hydrate.

Salt 4g 2% @ Puree with immersion blender over ice-water bath to form fluid gel.

Ultra-Sperse 3 Ig 0.5% @ Fold in reserved minced clam meat.

(National Starch brand) @ Pipe mixture into spherical silicone molds 2 cm / % in. in diameter.
lota carrageenan 0.4 g 0.2% @ Freeze until gel balls are hardened, at least 45 min.
Low-acyl gellan (Gellan F, 0.3 g 0.15%
CP Kelco brand)
Water, boiling 50 g 25% ® Disperse methylcellulose into boiling water, blending constantly.

Methocei KIOOM 0.25 g 0.125% @ Cool and reserve.

(Dow brand)
Batter Bind S 50 g 25% ® Dust over balls.
(National Starch brand) @ Whip methylcellulose mixture into stiff foam.
@ Dip dusted balls into foam to fully cover surface.

Panko, finely ground 50 g 25% @ Roll coated balls in panko.

@ Dip breaded balls in methylcellulose foam and then panko once more.

@ Refrigerate to firm crust, at least 2 h.

Mutsu apple, cut into 20 g 10% @ To serve, deep-fry takoyaki balls in 190 °C / 375 °F oil until golden, about 1 min. Set in centers
batons of small bowls.

Grey mullet bottarga lOg 5% @ Toss together apple and sea beans and place with takoyaki balls.

Sea beans, blanched lOg 5% @ Season bowls with lime juice and salt.

Frying oil as needed @ Garnish with shavings of bottarga.

Lime juice to taste

Salt to taste
from page 5-199

PLANT FOODS 171

 Yields 780 g
CRISPY CORN PUDDING
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

For the popcorn puree:

Whole milk 800 g 355% @ Bring milk to boil, and remove from heat.

Popped corn 140 g 62% (D Add corn, cover, and steep for 30 min.

@ Puree mixture.
@ Pass through fine sieve.

© Cool.
© Measure 350 g of popcorn puree, and reserve.

Forthe corn pudding:

Frozen white corn, thawed 225 g 100% @ Saute until lightly golden.

Unsalted butter 20 g 9% ® Cool and reserve.

Popcorn puree, cold, from 350 g 155% ® Disperse gelatin in popcorn puree.
above @ Bringtosimmerto dissolve.
160 Bloom gelatin 20 g 9% @ Remove from heat, and cool.
(5.7%)*

Ffeavy cream lOOg 44.5% @ Blend until smooth with sauteed white corn and gelled puree.

Eggyolks 36 g 16% @ Pass through fine sieve.

Maple syrup (Grade B) 34 g 15% @ Cast in mold in layer 2.5 cm / 1 in thick.

Salt 7g 3% @ Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.

Cayenne pepper 3g 1.5% ® Cut into cubes.

Thyme essential oil 0.01 g 0.004%

Forthe corn pudding crust:

Freeze-dried corn 200 g 89% @ Combine to make breading, and reserve.
see page 188
Panko 200 g 89%

All-purpose bleached flour 100 g 44.5% @ Combine.

Ultra-Crisp (National Starch1 50g 22% @ Dredge corn cubes in starch blend until evenly coated.
brand)
Eggs, whisked 125 g 56% ©Dip cubes in eggs, and finish by coating with reserved breading. Refrigerate until use.

Eryingoil as needed @ Deep-fry corn pudding cubes in 190 °C / 375 °F oil until golden, about 1 min. Drain on paper
towels.
from page 5104 *{% of weight of popcorn puree)

172 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SALTING, PICKLING, AND FERMENTING

@ Select an ingredient and a preservation method. The Best Bets for and sugar preserves, cook all ingredients over low heat until they are very
Preservation table on page 182 suggests many good options. tender and their surfaces are nearly dry. Keep fermented pickles or
©Mix brine or cure, and combine with aromatics. Use the table below to sauerkraut unsealed in a dark, cool place for at least two weeks; check
determine quantities. Note that weights are scaled in proportion to the that liquid exuded from the ingredients always covers the solids.
vinegar for vinegar pickles and to the fruit or vegetable for other kinds of ® Refrigerate (nonfermented preserves only). After cooking, coverthe
preserves. ingredients completely with brine or cure, vacuum seal them or place
@ Cook or ferment. For sour or sweet vinegar pickles, bring the brine and them in an airtight container, and then refrigerate them to pickle or cure.
aromatics to a simmer, and pour over the prepared ingredients. For oil © Keep brined and cured products refrigerated.

Formulas for Preserving Produce

Product Ingredient (scaling) Aromatics (scaling) See page
sour vinegar pickles vinegar 100% garlic 1.5% 176
water 40% black peppercorns 0.5%
salt 4% mustard seeds 0.5%
calcium lactate (optional, to firm) 1% red chilies (optional) 0.2%
sweet vinegar pickles vinegar 100% corianderseeds 1.00% 178
water 70% star anise 1.00%
sugar 40% ginger 1.00%
salt 5% lemon zest 0.40%
pectin methylesterase enzyme 0.4% white peppercorns 0.25%
(NovoShape brand, optional, to firm)
salt pickles fruit or vegetable 100% n/a
salt 9%
sugar 9%
fermented pickles fruit or vegetable 100% n/a 177
salt 1.5%
lactic acid (optional, to enhance flavor) 0.2%
sugar preserves fruit or vegetable 100% lemon zest 0.5% 180
sugar 100% vanilla pulp and seeds 0.1%
water 100%
from page 3-348

Note that the table above does not include the preparation steps that should be taken to pasteurize the food. Store any unpasteurized foods in the refrigera¬
tor as you would fresh foods. Canning and heat preservation require more intense pasteurization; see Canning, page 2-75, for details.

PRESERVED PEAR IN MUSTARD OIL Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Anjou pears 250 g 100% © Peel and core.
@ Scoop 12 spheres with melon bailer, and reserve.
Mustard oil lOg 4% @ Toast seeds and curry leaves in oil until golden, about 3 min, and reserve.
Yellow mustard seeds lOg 4%
Curry leaves 2g 0.8%
Water 100 g 40% @ Combine remaining ingredients, and warm to make syrup.
White wine vinegar 75 g 30% © Add mustard oil mixture.
Glucose syrup DE 40 50 g 20% ® Vacuum seal pear spheres with syrup.
Sugar 25 g 10% @ Refrigerate for at least 2 h before using, and up to 24 h total, after which pear spheres will
become too soft.
from page 5-283

PLANT FOODS 173

PRESERVED LEMONS ADAPTED FROM BRADFORD THOMPSON Yields 2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lemons (organic) 3 kg 100% ® Cutoff one slice, 2.5 cm /1 in thick, from one end of each lemon.
(about 25 large) @ Cut each lemon as if to quarter, but keep lemon intact by not fully cutting through its flesh and
not cuttingthrough its unsliced end.

(D Reserve lemons in large bowl.

Salt 1.5 kg 50% @ Combine.

Sugar 800 g 26.6% ® Place five 1 1 / 32 fl oz canning jars with lids in boiling water to sterilize.

Black peppercorns 50 g 1.6% ® Air-dry sterilized jars and lids on rack.

Cinnamon sticks, 25 g 0.8% @ Open up each lemon without breaking its unsliced end; lemon should resemble
crushed lightly a bloomed flower.

Corianderseeds 25 g 0.8% ® Sprinkle seasoned salt generously inside lemons.

Fennel seeds 20 g 0.6% ® Pack lemons into canning jars, five per jar, covering each layer with remaining salt mixture.

Saffron threads 18g 0.6% ® Seal jars tightly and refrigerate. Preserved lemons can be used after 4 wk but are best after

Star anise, crushed lightly lOg 0.3% 3-4 mo. Store refrigerated for up to 1 y.

Black onion seeds 5g 0.2%

from page 3-350

PICKLED GARLIC Yields 75 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Garlic cloves 100 g 100% @ Blanch for3 min.
@ Drain.
@ Arrange in single layer in rigid container.

White wine vinegar 200 g 200% @ Combine, and bringto boil.

Water 75 g 75% ® Pour over garlic cloves.

Sugar 25 g 25% © Cool.

Thyme 5g 5% @ Refrigerate for at least 12 h before serving.
Salt 4g 4%
from page 5-26

PICKLED TAPIOCA PEARL Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200 g 200% @ Combine.

Tapioca pearls lOOg 100% @ Boil for20 min, and simmer until tenderand translucent, 30-35 min.

® Drain.

Rice wine vinegar llOg 110% @ Combine to make brine.

Oyster juice 40 g 40% ® Mix together brine and cooked tapioca pearls.
see page 81
® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
Sugar 15 g 15%

Lime juice lOg 10%

Salt 3g 3%

from page 5-207

174 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

KIMCHI ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sugar 75 g 9% @ Combine salt with 30 g of sugar.
Salt 22 g 2.6%
Napa cabbage head 825 g 100% (D Rub mixture thoroughly into leaves while keeping cabbage head intact.
with leaves attached
@ Cover, and refrigerate for 12 h.
@ Drain and reserve.
Garlic, finely minced 100 g 12% @ Combine with remaining 45 g ofsugar.
Fish sauce 65 g 8% ® Rub mixture completely into leaves, keeping head intact.
Light soy sauce 62 g 7.5% @ Cover, and store at 18-24 °C/ 64-75 °F for 2-4 wk to ferment. Final pH should be less
Korean chili powder 48 g 6% than 4.0.

Scallions, minced 37 g 4.5% ® To serve, cut individual leaves away from core.

Ginger, finely minced 35 g 4%

Carrot, julienne 30 g 4%
Dried salted shrimp 7g 1%
from page 3-352

WATERMELON RIND KIMCHI Yields 140 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 500 g 250% ® Whisk together until salt and acid have fully dissolved, to make pickling brine.
Salt 35 g 17.5%
Scallions, thinly sliced 30 g 15%
Sugar 25 g 12.5%
Ginger, minced 20 g 10%
Garlic, minced 8g 4%
Lactic acid 6g 3%
(12%)*
Dried shrimp, minced 5g 2.5%
Bird's eye chilies, minced 2g 1%
Watermelon rind, peeled 200 g 100% (D Vacuum seal rind pieces with brine.
and cut into strips 5 cm /
@ Refrigerate forl2 h.
2 in wide
® Drain.
® Refrigerate until use.
from page 5-286 *(% of total \A/eight of water)

NUKAZUKE Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 100% @ Combine.
Salt 200 g 20% @ Stir until salt is completely dissolved.
Rice bran (nuka) 1 kg 100% @ Combine.
Ginger, cut into chunks 20 g 2% ® Add solution from above.
Cabbage leaves 15g 1.5% ® Cover, and leave at room temperature for 2 wk; stir once daily.
® Discard cabbage leaves and ginger; reserve rice bran mixture.
Carrots 200 g 20% @ Rub surfaces of vegetables with salt.
Japanese cucumbers 200 g 20% ® Place in deep crock with rice bran mixture; bury vegetables completely in mixture.
(or Persian) ® Cover top ofcrock tightly with plastic wrap.
Radishes 100 g 10% @ Store in dry place at room temperature until desired texture is achieved, 4-24 h.
Salt as needed
@ To serve, remove vegetables from rice bran mixture, and rinse.
@ Reserve rice bran mixture, refrigerated, for future pickling.

from page 3-354

PLANT FOODS 175

sous VIDE CUCUMBER PICKLES Yields300g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Small pickling cucumbers 300 g 100% ® Slice to 4 mm /14 in thick, and reserve.

White wine vinegar 350 g 117% @ Combine, and bringto boil.

Water 150 g 50% @ Remove brine from heat, and cool.

Sugar 80 g 27% @ Refrigerate to cool completely.

Salt 8g 2.7%

Black peppercorns Ig 0.3%

Caraway seeds Ig 0.3%

NovoShape PME enzyme 2g 0.67%

(optional, Novozymes (0.4%)*
brand)
Fresh dill sprigs 8g 2.7% (D Add dill and sliced cucumbers to chilled brine.

® Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate for 1-2 d.

from page 3-353 *(% of total 1weight of vinegar and water)

GARLIC CONFIT Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pressure-cooked garlic confit has
Olive oil 500 g 200% ® Place garlic cloves and aromatics in Mason jars, and a darkerappearance and deeper
100% cover with oil. flavorthan sous vide garlic confit
Garlic cloves, peeled 250 g
(about 35 cloves) @ Place Mason jars in pressure cooker, and pour water does. This recipe can also be
1.2% halfway up their sides. made with other typical Provencal
Rosemary sprigs 3g
@ Pressure cook at 1 bar/15 psi (gauge) for 2 h. aromatics, such as fennel seed,
Thyme sprigs 3g 1.2%
bay leaf, lavender, and sage, instead
® Alternatively, vacuum seal together, and cook sous
of—or in addition to—rosemary and
vide in 88 °C /190 °F bath for 7 h.
thyme.
© Serve, or cool and refrigerate.

from page 3-354

AROMATIC ALSATIAN MUSTARD Yields 245 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yellow mustard seeds 75 g 100% ® Blanch three times in scalding water, discarding water each time to remove bitterness.

Cider vinegar 190 g 253% @ Combine seeds with vinegar.

© Refrigerate forl2 h.

Fennel, brunoise 2-2 g 2.9% @ Combine with soaked mustard seeds in food processor.

Tarragon, finely minced 1.5g 2% © Puree fori min to coarse texture.

Corianderseeds, ground l-2g 1.6% ® Vacuum seal mustard.

Salt Ig 1.33% @ Refrigerate for at least 7 d before use.

Black cardamom seeds, 0.8 g 1.1%
ground
Ground cinnamon 0.7 g 0.9%

Ground cloves 0.7g 0.9%

Black pepper, ground 0.5 g 0.7%

Bay leaf, finely minced 0.2 g 0.3%

from page 5-37

176 VOLUME KITCHEN MANUAL

SAUERKRAUT Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEINC PROCEDURE
Savoy cabbage (green 2 kg 100% @ Remove leaves, and cut out and discard their central ribs.
cabbage, red cabbage,
@ Slice leaves into fine ribbons.
rutabaga, or turnips may
be substituted)
Salt 30 g 1.5% @ Toss with cut leaves.

@ Pack salted leaves in crock or other deep, opaque container.

@ Cover mouth of container with cheesecloth, and top with clean rock or other heavy, sanitized
object.

® Store at 18-24 °C/ 64-75 °F for 2-4 wk, or until pH is below 4.0. Cabbage must become fully
submerged in its own Juices. This should occur by the third day; if not, add 1%salt brine to
cover.

@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate sauerkraut with brine until needed.

from page 3-351

BRAISED SAUERKRAUT Yields 480 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 90 g 60% ® Saute together, without allowing onions to color, until very tender, about 25 min.
Goose fat 75 g 50%
Garlic, finely minced 30 g 20%
Cabbage sauerkraut 150 g 100% @ Add to onion mixture.
see recipe above
@ Cook until cabbage is very tender and liquid is reduced by half, about 30 min.
Vegetable stock 150 g 100%
see page 6 and page 13

Riesling (dry) 105 g 70%

Rutabaga sauerkraut 100 g 66.7%
see recipe above

Muscat (dry) 50 g 33.3%

Bay leaf 0.5 g 0.33% @ Combine in sachet.
Black peppercorns 0.2 g 0.13% ® Add sachet to onion and cabbage mixture, and continue to cook until most of liquid has
Juniper berries 0.15 g 0.1% evaporated, about 25 min.

Cloves 0.1 g 0.07% ® Remove sachet.

Coriander seeds 0.1 g 0.07%

Salt to taste @ Season sauerkraut.
from page 5-39

PICKLED Lies Yields400g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Red wine vinegar 350 g 175% ® Vacuum seal together.
Dried black figs 200g 100% @ Cook sous vide in 80 °C/176 "F bath for4 h.
Sugar 200 g 100% @ Cool completely.
White balsamic vinegar 195 g 97.5% @ Refrigerate until use.
Balsamic vinegar 125 g 62.5%
Lemon, thinly sliced 20 g 10%
Ginger, peeled and 4g 2%
thinly sliced
Cinnamon stick 3.5 g 1.75%
Star anise, crushed 1.5g 0.75%
Cardamom seeds, black 0.5 g 0.25%
Black peppercorns 0.2 g 0.1%
from page 5 137

PLANT FOODS 177

COMPRESSED DILL-PICKLED VEGETABLES Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Red bell peppers, 100 g 33% @ Cut into fine julienne.

seeded and peeled
Cucumbers 175 g 58% @ Peel and slice on diagonal 1 mm /Me in thick with mandoline. Yield is aboutlOO g.

Elon-shimeji mushrooms, 100 g 33% @ Bringwaterand salt to boil.

caps only @ Blanch mushrooms for2 min.
Water 100 g 33% ® Shock in ice-water bath.
Salt 2g 0.67% ® Drain and reserve.

Red pearl onions, peeled 150 g 50% @ Cut in half lengthwise.

(D Vacuum seal.
(D Blanch in 95 °C/200 °F bath for4 min.
@ Separate into petals, and reserve.

White wine vinegar 300 g 100% @ Combine, and bringto boil to make pickling brine.

Distilled water 150 g 50% @ Pour approximately 100 g of brine over each vegetable: bell peppers, cucumbers, mushrooms,

Sugar 50 g 16.7% and onions.

Dill 8.5g 2.8% ® Cool vegetables completely.

Salt 7.5 g 2.5% @ Serve, or vacuum seal separately and refrigerate.

Black peppercorns 1.5g 0.5%

Caraway seeds 1.5g 0.5%

from page 5-58

PICKLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Yields 280 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Champagne vinegar 150 g 100% ® Combine to make pickling brine.

Sugar 30 g 20%

Salt 5g 3.3%

Jerusalem artichokes. lOOg 67% @ Vacuum seal with brine, and refrigerate.
peeled and cut into
0.5 cm / 'A in cubes
from page 5-131

PICKLED RAMPS Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200 g 100% @ Combine and bringto simmer.

White wine vinegar 200 g 100%

Sugar 80 g 40%

Salt 12 g 6%
Yellow mustard seeds 3g 1.5%
Black peppercorns 2.5g 1.25%

Corianderseeds 1.5g 0.75%

Bay leaf 0.5 g 0.25%

Ramp bulbs, cleaned 450 g 225% @ Pour warm brine over bulbs.

@ Cool mixture.
@ Vacuum seal.
© Refrigerate for at least 12 h.

from page 5118

178 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 PICKLED LEMON Yields 125 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lemons lOOg 100% @ Slice 1 mm /'/\f, in thick.
(D Place in rigid containerand reserve.
Water lOOg 100% @ Combine to make brine.
White wine vinegar 50 g 50% @ Bring to simmerto dissolve sugar.
Sugar 25 g 25% ® Pourwarm brine over lemon slices.
® Cool.

@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-275

PICKLED CELERY ROOT Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Celeryjuice, clarified 125 g 125% @ Combine to make brine.
(from 250 g
celery)
White wine vinegar 100 g 100%
Sugar 30 g 30%
Salt 5g 5%
Celery root, peeled and 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal with brine.
thinly sliced
@ Refrigerate until use.
Black peppercorns Ig 1%
Corianderseeds, toasted 0.5 g 0.5%
from page 5133

TOMATO CONEIT adapted FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 150g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomatoes 1 kg 100% @ Core tomatoes.
@ Cut small X in blossom end of each tomato.
@ Blanch until skin begins to lift at X, about 10 s.
@ Shock in ice-water bath for2 min. Peel off skins.
© Cut in half vertically, and scoop out seeds.
® Pat dry.

0 Place cut side down on baking sheet lined with silicone mat, and reserve.
Glycerol 20 g 2% ® Combine.
Water 20 g 2% ® Brush evenly on tomatoes.
O

Extra virgin olive oil 4%

era

@ Brush evenly on tomatoes.

Garlic, thinly sliced 15g 1.5% ® Sprinkle equally and evenly over tomatoes.
Thyme leaves 4g 0.4%
Bay leaves, finely sliced Ig 0.1%
Salt 2g 0.2% @ Season tomatoes evenly.
Sugar 2g 0.2% ® Dry in 110 °C / 225 °F oven for about 1 h.

@ Turn tomatoes over, reduce heatto 95 °C/200 °F, and dry until deep red and shriveled, 3-4 h.
Cool,

@ Discard dried herbs from tomatoes.

@ Vacuum seal tomatoes with their cooking oils.
® Refrigerate until use.
from page 5-62

PLANT FOODS 179

PICKLED BING CHERRY Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Bing cherries 500 g 100% @ Arrange in single layer in rigid plastic container that fits in vacuum sealer chamber.

Red wine vinegar 265 g 53% @ Bring remaining ingredients to boil to make brine.

Sourcherryjuice 150 g 30% d) Pour brine over cherries, and cool at room temperature.
(store-bought) @ Pull full vacuum three times on cooled cherries.
Sugar 130 g 26% ® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use. Both cherries and their pickling brine are delicious and
Water 130 g 26% versatile acidifiers for dressings and sauces.

from page 5-268

Yields 350 g
GREEN PAPAYA PICKLE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Papaya (semiripe), peeled 225 g 90% ©Julienne and reserve.

Cane vinegar 250 g 100% @ Reserve 150 g ofvinegar.

Red onions, finely minced 75 g 30% @ Combine 100 g ofvinegar with remaining ingredients, and grind to coarse paste.

Black mustard seeds 25 g 10%

Garlic, finely minced 8g 3%

Ginger, finely minced 8g 3%

Bird's eye chili, 1.5g 0.5%

finely minced
Neutral oil 20 g 8% @ Fry paste over medium heat, stirring constantly, until aromatic but not colored, about 10 min.

Sugar 40 g 16% ©Add to cooked paste with reserved 150 g ofvinegar.

Green chili, minced 5g 2% ® Fold julienned papaya into warm paste.

Salt 5g 2% @ Simmerfor2 min.

Turmeric (fresh), grated 4.5 g 1.8% ® Cool completely, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-97

PICKLED BUTTERNUT SQUASH YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Black peppercorns 3g 3% @ Combine in sachet.

Coriander seeds, toasted 3g 3%

Star anise, lightly crushed 3g 3%

Orange zest, grated 2.5g 2.5%

Dried bitter orange peel l,5g 1.5%

Saffron threads 0.1 g 0.1%

White wine vinegar 130 g 130% @ Combine, and bringto boil.

Water 80 g 80% @ Remove from heat, and add sachet.

Sugar 30 g 30% @ Infuse for3 min, discard sachet.

Salt Ig 1%

Butternut squash. lOOg 100% ® Place squash in container.

brunoise ® Pourhot brine oversquash.
@ Place open container in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum several times to infuse squash
thoroughly.
® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-64

180 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 CRISPY DOSA Yields 800 g (12 dosas)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Jasmine rice 400 g 100% @ Soak together in water at room temperature for about 3 h.
Whole black gram 200 g 50% (D Drain.
(urad dal)

Flattened riceflakes 25 g 6.25%

(poha)
Water 850 g 212.5%
Water lOOg 25% @ Combine with soaked grains and soaking liquid, and grind until smooth and fluffy.
Coconut (fresh), grated 30 g 7.5% @ Add up to 100 g more water, as necessary, to achieve thin pancake-batter consistency.
Salt lOg 2.5% ® Measure 500 g of batter, and ferment in covered container at room temperature for 2 h.
Refrigerate remaining batter.
Lactic acid 2.5 g 0.63% ® Add to batter, and continue to ferment for 30 min.
Ghee as needed @ Bring nonstick skillet orgriddle to medium heat.
see page 4-213
® Ladle batter onto skillet. Use an outward spiral motion to spread evenly.
® Drizzle 5 ml /1 tsp of butter around edges of each dosa.
(jo) Cook until crispy and golden on bottom.

Masala curry sauce 80 g 20% ® Combine potatoes and masala sauce; warm through.
see page 225
® Warm foam in 60 °C/140 °F bath for 20 min.
Sous vide cooked 120 g 30%
® Fill dosas with potatoes, foam, and puffed lentils; serve on side.
potatoes, cubed
Coconut chutney foam 150 g 37.5%
see page 325

Puffed lentils 80 g 20%

see page 342

from page 3-355

YUZU AND KUMQUAT MARMALADE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fructose 100 g 40% @ Dry blend.
High-methoxyl pectin (Brown 2.5 g 1%
Ribbon HV, Obipektin brand)
Salt 1.5g 0.6%
Yuzu juice (fresh or bottled) 55 g 22% @ Reserve 5 g of juice.
@ Blend powder mixture with remaining 50 g.
® Bring juice to boil to make syrup.
® Remove from heat, and cool completely.
Kumquats, quartered 250 g 100% ® Blanch once in boiling water, and cool completely.
@ Combine with cooled yuzu syrup.
® Vacuum seal together.

@ Cook sous videin80°C/176°F bath until very tender, about 4 h.

® Remove from bag to cool completely, and reserve.
Mandarin juice, 70 g 28% ® Combine, and hand-blend until gums are completely incorporated.
freeze-concentrated
see page 2-337
® Fold into cooled marmalade base.

Guar gum 0.28 g 0.11%

(0.2%)*
Xanthan gum 0.2 g 0.08%
(0.16%)*
Citric acid 2g 0.8% @ Whisk into marmalade.
Yuzu juice, from above 5g 2% @ Add to marmalade, and refrigerate.
from page 3-356 *{% of total weight ofyuzu and mandarin juices)

PLANT FOODS 181

 Yields 250 g
ENZYME-TREATED PINK GRAPEERUIT
SCALING PROCEDURE

Pink grapefruit, peeled 300 g 30% @ Separate carefully into segments, leaving membranes intact, and reserve.

Water 1kg 100% (D Combine, and transferto sanitized jar.

Pectinex Ultra SP-L 0.2% @ Add grapefruit segments.

2g
(Novozymes brand) @ Seal jar.
Pectinex Smash XXL Ig 0.1%
® Refrigerate for 12 h to soak.
(Novozymes brand)
® Remove treated segments from water.
@ Brush away any undissolved grapefruit membrane.

from page 3-357

Best Bets for Preservation

Ingredient Vinegar pickle Salt pickle Eermented pickle Sugar preserve

/ / / /
apple
apricot / /

bean sprout / / /

/ /
beet
bell pepper / / /

cabbage / / /

carrot / / / /

cauliflower / / /

cherry / / /

chili / / / /

citrus / / /

coconut, young / /

cucumber ✓ / /

eggplant / /

/ /
fig
garlic / / / /

grape / /

green bean / / /

lychee / /

mango, green /
melon / / / /

mustard seeds / / /

mushroom / / /

okra / /

olive / / /

onion / / /

papaya, green / / /

peach / /

pear / /

pineapple / /

radish / / /

rhubarb / / /

rutabaga / /

seaweed / / /

tomato / /

turnip / / /

zucchini / /

from page 3-348

182 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 HEAT-TREATED FRUIT Best Bets for Heat-Treated Fruit
Warm bath Shelf life, Shelf life after
Fruit ('■c) (°F) (min) untreated treatment
@ The table at right suggests a number of fruits for which this process works
blueberry 60 140 1/2 7 20
well. Make certain the water bath has reached the temperature indicated
before you drop the fruits in whole. citrus, 60 140 20 6 11
@ Stir gently and submerge the fruits if necessary. If you remove them after segments
the time indicated and dry them thoroughly, you can expect their shelf grape 55 131 V2 5 25
life to increase by half or more, as noted in the table.
melon 50 122 60 12 15
pear 45 113 40 10 15
strawberry 60 140 y4 9 12
tomato 60 140 1/2 7 10
from page 3-359

SMOKED PLANT FOODS

@ Select and prepare the ingredient. The table below offers a number of @ Set the smoker temperature and relative humidity to the values
good options. indicated. For smokers without temperature or humidity controls, place
(D Load the wood mixture into the smoker. Do not soak the wood chips a pan of water on the bottom rack of the smoker, and use a wet-bulb
first, because that results in acidic smoke (see page 2-140). thermometer to monitorthewet-bulb temperature.
® Smoke forthe time indicated in the table.

Best Bets for Smoked Plant Foods

Smoke
Dry-bulb Wet-bulb Relative
temp. temp. humidity Time
Ingredient Wood (scaling) (“O (°F) (°C) (°F) (h) Note or example use See page
apple apple 100% 65 149 46 114 40 24 serve plain, or in tarte tatin
asparagus cherry 100% 7 45 4 39 80 24 saute quickly
corn, on the cob oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 24 cook sous vide, and baste with smoked
maple 25% butter and pimenton
eggplant hickory 100% 65 149 46 114 40 6 babaghanouj, moussaka
fresh pasta oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 24 pasta carbonara
nectarine 33%
olive oil (or other oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 12 vinaigrette, brushed on grilled bread
oils and fats) nectarine 33%
onion, oak 100% 65 149 54 129 60 24 cook sous vide, and finish in a roasting 139
cooked sous vide maple 25% pan with bacon-infused butter
pecan apple 100% 65 149 46 114 40 6 briefly roast, and toss with pecan oil, salt
pineapple oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 24 briefly grill, and brush with lime
maple 25% and vanilla syrup
pine nut hickory 100% 30 86 21 70 60 4 pesto
potato, oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 24 cook sous vide with 2 g (1% total weight next, 5-193
cooked sous vide nectarine 33% of potatoes) of high-quality liquid smoke
mixed into the butter
rice oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 24 paella valenciana 5-239
nectarine 33%
soy sauce, dark oak 100% 50 122 40 104 60 24 shiro dashi or miso soup
nectarine 33%
soy sauce, white oak 100% 10 50 3 37 60 24 spot prawn tempura 164
nectarine 33%
watermelon hickory 100% 65 149 46 114 40 2 dessert for a barbecue
from page 3-362

PLANT FOODS 183

SMOKED POTATOES WITH VIN JAUNE SABAYON
ADAPTED FROM ALAIN PASSARD Yields 625 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Ratte fingerling potatoes, 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
peeled
(D Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194°F bath fori h.
Baby Yukon gold 100 g 100% @ Remove potatoes from bag. If smoking is not an option, vacuum
potatoes, peeled
@ Cold-smoke cooked potatoes at 10 “C/50 °F for 24 h, seal raw potatoes with a mixture
or hot-smoke in stove-top smokerfor30 min. of water and good-quality liquid
smoke in step 1. Use 2 g of liquid
© Cool.
smoke for every 100 g of water,
Unsalted butter, melted 50 g 50% ® Vacuum seal potatoes with butter.
and include enough smoke-water
Vin jaune 75 g 75% @ Combine vin jaune with shallots. mixture to equal the weight of the
Shallots, finely minced 50 g 50% © Reduce to syrup. potatoes.

@ Strain, and measure 10 g of vin jaune reduction.

White vegetable stock 200 g 200% ® Blend together fully with vin jaune reduction.
see page 6 and page 13
® Cook mixture sous vide in 70 °C/ 158 °F bath for
Egg yolks 156 g 156% 35 min.
Heavy cream 40 g 40% @ Transfer sabayon to 1 1 siphon, and charge with two
Lemon juice 5g 5% cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Salt to taste ® Keep siphon warm in 62 °C/ 144 °F bath until ready to
use.
@ Warm sealed potatoes in same bath used forsabayon
for 10 min.

@ Remove potatoes from bath and bag; divide equally

amongfour bowls.

@ Dispense warm sabayon around potatoes.

Roasted hazelnut oil 20 g 20% ® Garnish potatoes.
Toasted hazelnuts, 20 g 20%
quartered
Ginger, finely diced 7g 7%
Chives, finely minced to taste
Salt to taste
from page 3-363

SMOKED POTATO CONEIT Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yukon Gold potatoes, 200 g 100% @ Cut out 3 cm by 6 cm /1(4 in by 2% in cylinders using ring cutter.
hot-smoked (four potatoes) @ Vacuum seal together.
see page 183
@ Heat potatoes in 70 °C /158 °F bath.
Extra virgin olive oil lOOg 50%
Salt 1.5g 0.75%
from page 5-195

184 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

 DEHYDRATED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

@ Choose a product. Use the table below to select the dehydrated form @ Combine slices, puree, juice, orfoam with other ingredients.
you wish to make, cross-referenced with the kind of produce you are Assign a scaling value of 100% to the fruit or vegetable preparation,
using. and weigh the other ingredients proportionally. For example, use 0.8 g
@ Select a texture. The table on the next page presents our agar and 2.5 g of glycerol for every 100 g of raspberry puree to make
recommendations for chips, papers, leathers, glasses, and wafers. a flexible raspberry leather.

@ Prepare the fruit or vegetable as indicated in the table. @ Dehydrate by using the temperature and time listed.

Best Bets for Dehydration

Chips Papers Leathers Glasses Wafers
Ingredient (thin slices) (purees) (purees) (purees and juices) (purees and Juices)
apple / / / / /
apricot / / / / /
beet / / / / /
cabbage /
cauliflower / /
citrus / /
corn / / /
flower petals /
leek / /
mango / / / / /
mushroom / / /
onion / / / y y

passion fruit / / / /
pear / / /
persimmon / / / / /
pineapple / / y

raspberry / / / y

spinach / /
squash / / / / y

strawberry / / / / y

from page 3-366

GARLIC NOUGATINE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Glucose syrup DE 40 lOOg 100% @ Mix together.
Isomalt powder 100 g 100% @ Spread onto silicone baking mat in one layer, 1 mm /'/n'm thick.
Unsalted butter, softened lOOg 100% (D Cover with second silicone baking mat.
All-purpose flour 50 g 50% @ Bake in 200 °C/ 390 °F oven until golden and soft, about 5 min.
Garlic, brunoise 50 g 50% @ Pass rolling pin several times overtop baking mat, while nougatine is still hot, to make as thin
and blanched as possible.
Marcona almonds, 50 g 50% @ Warm in oven.
brunoise
@ Cut into desired dimensions while still hot.
Salt 4.5 g 4.5%
® Store in airtight container, ideally with silica gel packet.
from page 5-29

PLANT FOODS 185

Formulas for Dehydrating Produce
Dehydrate
Product Texture Preparation Ingredients (scaling)* (°C) (°F) (h)

chips very dust over sliced fruit or trehalose or isomalt, fine 100% 50 120 8
crisp vegetable powder
crisp make syrup and brush isomalt 100% 50 120 12
onto slices water 65%
crisp whisk until dissolved. egg white 100% 50 120 7
rest at room temperature gum arabic 50%
about 20 min, and brush
mixture onto produce
crisp soak slices for20 min water 50% 55 130 5
maltodextrin DE19 100%
chewy soak slices for 2 h glycerol 30% 60 140 12
water 40%
sugar or trehalose 100%

papers moist, spread mixture into methylcellulose E4M 1.5% 55 130 6

chewy paper-thin layer (Dow brand)
dry, glucose syrup DE 40 5.0% 55 130 7
flexible low-acyl gellan 0.7%
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
dry. N-Zorbit M 20% 55 130 3
brittle (National Starch brand)
leathers tender spread mixture into layer vegetable oil 5% 55 130 8

chewy 1 mm / '/i6 in thick Ultratex 8 3.0% 60 140 5

(National Starch brand)
xanthan gum 0.3%
chewy agar 0.8% 60 140 5
glycerol 2.5%

glasses crisp spread mixture into layer glucose syrup DE40 2% 60 140 36
1 mm / yie in thick isomalt 10%
icing sugar 18%
brittle simmer mixture for4 min, Pure Cote B790 12.5% 60 140 15-18
and then spread into layer
1 mm / Vi6 in thick
wafers crisp whip mixture into stiff egg white 18% 55 130 12
and airy foam, and then spread into xanthan gum 1%
crunchy layer 3 mm / '/a in thick xanthan gum 0.50% 55 130 12
and airy 160 Bloom gelatin 1.25%
from page 3-367 *{set weight of fruit or vegetable to 100%)

GREEN PEA WAFER Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green pea puree 400 g 100% @ Blend to fine puree.
see page 55 (from 750 g @ Pass through fine sieve.
of frozen
sweet peas)

Egg whites 75 g 18.5% @ Whisk together into puree until light and fluffy in texture.

Xanthan gum 4.75 g 1% @ Cast puree evenly into nonstick mold in layer 0.5 cm / 14 in thick.

@ Dehydrate at 57 °C /135 °F until crisp, 2 h or longer.

© Cut into rectangles.

from page 3-371

186 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

CRYSTALLIZED ROSE PETALS Yields 30 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEINC PROCEDURE

Rose petals (organic) 50 g 100% @ Separate petals, and reserve.
Egg whites 50 g 100% @ Whisk together until gum arabic is fully dissolved.
Gum arabic 25 g 50% @ Rest at room temperature until bubbles have dissipated, about 20 min.
@ Brush mixture onto each petal to coat completely.
Sugar, isomalt, or lOOg 200% ® Dredge petals.
trehalose
® Place on dehydrator tray or parchment paper-lined bakingsheet.
@ Dry at 45 °C /115 “F until dry and crisp, for 8-12 h.
from page 3-368

SPINACH PAPER Yields 70 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Spinach puree lOOg 100% @ Season puree.
see page 55 and page 144

Salt to taste
N-Zorbit, a modified starch (see N-Zorbit M 20 g 20% @ Whisk into puree.
page 4-34), dries to create a crisp (National Starch brand)
@ Spread mixture thinly on silicone mat.
glassy film.
® Dehydrate at 60 "C /145 °F until crisp, 25-45 min.
from page 3-369

MANDARIN LEATHER Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Mandarins, quartered 200 g 100% ® Combine in pressure cooker.
and seeds removed
@ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar /15 psi for
Water 150 g 75% 45 min.
Sugar 75 g 37.5% @ Blend fully to puree.
The addition of oil provides
tenderness to the leather. Our ® Strain through fine sieve.
favorite texture uses a scaling of 3%
® Cool puree, and measure 300 g.
of the total puree weight. You can
Lime juice lOg 5% ® Blend together fully with puree.
go up to 4.5% for even more tender¬
ness. This recipe can be adapted to Koshersalt 0.5 g 0.25% @ Spread seasoned puree in layer 3 mm /% in thick on
any fruit or vegetable puree. Grapeseed oil or other cellulose acetate sheet, 15 cm by 30 cm / 6 in by 12 in.
9g 4.5%
neutral oil 0%)* ® Place sheet on dehydrator tray.
For more on freeze-dried ingredients, ® Dehydrate puree at 35 °C / 95 °F until leathery,
see page 2-444. about 8 h.
from page 3-369 *(% of total mandarin puree weight)

PINEAPPLE GLASS ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ Yields200g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pineapple, juiced 275 g 100% @ Strain through fine sieve.
see page 2-338

Fructose 7g 2.5% @ Combine with strained juice.

Malic acid 2g 0.7% @ Bring to boil over medium heat, and remove immediately.
Salt 2g 0.7%
Saffron threads 0.25 g 0.1% @ Add to warm juice, cover, and steep for 5 min.
® Strain.
Pure-Cote B790(GPC 35.5 g 13% ® Blend with juice mixture on high speed forabout2 min. SimmerforlS min.
brand) @ Pour liquid onto center of cellulose acetate sheet.
® Form sheet into U shape, and allow liquid to coat sheet evenly.
@ Lay sheet on flat surface, and rest at room temperature until dry, 12-15 h.
@ Peel glass off in single piece.
from page 3-370

PLANT FOODS 187

 FREEZE-DRIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

© Prepare the ingredients. The table below lists our recommendations.

@ Arrange in a single layer on a tray.

@ Freeze-dry for the time indicated. Temperature and pressure settings for primary and
secondary drying are given in chapter 10 on The Modernist Kitchen on page 2-450.

Best Bets for Freeze-Drying Plant Foods

Cut Dry
Ingredient Preparation (mm) (in) (h) Typical use See page
apples peeled 2 y,6 24 whole; grind into a fine powder, and use to enhance apple
recipes
bananas peeled 3 '/a 48 whole; grind into a fine powder, and add to
Thai spice mix orto mustard base
butternut peeled 2 Ke 36 grind into a fine powder, and add to fresh butternut squash
squash puree to deepen the flavor and thicken
carrots peeled and sliced, 1 y32 12 instant ramen 61
then blanched for 30 s
chives, mint, and whole leaves 12 grind into a fine powderforseasoning
other herbs
corn, kernels whole 36 whole; grind into afine powder and use in Modernist 209
breading, add to corn bread recipes or broths
grapes perforated with needle whole 48 whole; pickled; add to pastry recipes; infuse into broths
lettuce whole leaves 24 caesar salad 189
mushrooms 1 y-ij 12 infuse into stocks and broths; rehydrate to make a puree; 5-14
grind into a fine powder for breading
onions cooked until tender 2 ye 12 grind into a fine powder, and add to savory pastry 189
piquillo peppers blanched, peeled quartered 36 grind into a fine powder, and add to spice blends 5-239
raspberries whole 24 whole; grind into a powder, and add to pastry or infuse into
vinegar
strawberries 2 ySe 24 whole; grind into afine powderforseasoning and breading 33
tomatoes peeled, cored thinly sliced 24 whole; infuse into oils; grind into a fine powder, and add to 49
sauces and spice blends
from page 3-372

ONION SABLE Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Unsalted butter 500 g 500% @ Simmer over low heat for 2 h to infuse butter with onion flavor,
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 200 g 200% being careful not to brown onions.
@ Strain butter, and reserve onions for other use.
© Measure 100 g of onion broth for making dough.
All-purpose flour 112.5 g 112.5% @ Mix to form dough, and rest dough for20 min at room temp.
Onion butter, from above 100 g 100% © Roll out dough in layerl mm /'/e in thick.
Almond powder 50 g 50% © Place on nonstick baking sheet.
Isomalt 50 g 50% @ Bake in 175 °C/350 °F oven until lightly golden, forll min.
Egg yolk, cooked sous vide in 65 °C/149 °F bath for 25 g 25% @ Cut into 3 cm by 8 cm/PA in byS'A in rectangles while still warm.
7 min
© Cool completely.
Cornstarch 12.5 g 12 5%
@ Reserve in cool, dry place.
Freeze-dried onion powder 8g 8%
see page 189

Salt 4.5 g 4.5%

Heavy cream 3.3 g 3.3%
Baking powder 1.5g 1.5%
from page 5-263

188 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SEARED STRAWBERRY Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Strawberries, halved 60 g 100% ® Coat halved strawberries with thin dusting of strawberry powder, and then sear in oil over high
lengthwise (two berries) heat until charred, about 45 s.
Freeze-dried strawberry 12 g 20%
powder
see page 188

Grapeseed oil as needed

Oloroso sherry vinegar 5g 8.5% @ Season.
Salt to taste

from page 5-279

CAESAR SALAD Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolk powder, freeze- 12 g 24% @ Dry blend powders.
dried
see page 5-250

Acetic acid 7g 14%

Salt 7g 14%
Black peppercorns, 3g 6%
finely ground
Anchovy powder, freeze- 2g 4%
dried
N-Zorbit M 20 g 40%
(National Starch brand) {50%)*
Extra-virgin olive oil 40 g 80% @ Whisk into powder mixture until fully incorporated.
Romaine lettuce, freeze- 50 g 100% @ Toss greens together with dressing.
dried ® Arrange salad on plate.
Basil leaves (small), 8g 16%
microwave-fried
Chives, cut into 1 cm / 8g 16%
% in batons and freeze-
dried
Parsley, microwave-fried 4g 8%
see page 157

Parmesan nuggets 20 g 40% ® Garnish salad.

see page 206

Salt-cured anchovies, 16g 32%

freeze-dried
Brioche, cut into 1 mm / 12 g 24%
>32 in slices and dehydrated

from page 3-373 *(% of weight of olive oil)

FREEZE-DRIED ONION POWDER Yields 40 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly 350 g 100% ® Saute in nonstick pan over low heat until translucent and tender, about 15 min.
sliced
Neutral oil as needed
Water 100 g 28.5% @ Deglaze as needed to prevent any browning.
@ Cool at room temperature.
@ Freeze-dry for 12 h.
® Grind into powder.
® Store in cool, dry place.
from page 3-373

PLANT FOODS 189

SHRIMP AND GRITS inspired bysean brock Yields 750 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Bacon, thinly sliced lOOg 50% @ Vacuum seal together.
Water lOOg 50% @ Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath for2 h.
@ Strain bacon broth, and cool.

@ Discard resulting layer of fat, and measure 100 g of broth.

Bacon broth, from above 100 g 50% (D Blend sucrose esters and whey protein isolate into broth, and reserve.
Sucrose esters 2.4 g 1.2%
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Whey protein isolate 1.5 g 0.75%

Eggs four large @ Cook in shells in 65 °C/149 °E bath for 35 min.

Dried corn kernels or 200 g 100% @ Dip dried corn in liquid nitrogen until frozen.
hominy
® Blend frozen corn on high power until coarse texture is achieved.
Liquid nitrogen as needed ® Pass through coarse sieve to remove any unground pieces.
Water, shellfish stock, or 1 kg 500% @ Combine with cornmeal from above, and cook over medium heat forabout 40 min;
vegetable stock stir constantly until mixture softens and forms grits.
see page 6 and page 9

Spot prawn orshrimp 150 g 75% @ Dip prawns in liquid nitrogen until frozen.
tails, peeled
@ Blend frozen prawns on high power until fine powder is achieved.
Liquid nitrogen as needed @ Fold into warm grits.

@ Warm bacon broth, and whip with foaming wand.

Mascarpone 80 g 40% ® Fold into grits, and reheat to make sure grits are warm.
Salt to taste ® Season grits, and portion into four bowls.
® Place peeled, cooked egg in center of each bowl.
Red-eye gravy 80 g 40% @ Pour gravy over eggs and grits.
see page 225

from page 3-377

1 90 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

PASTA

@ Mix dry ingredients, texturing agent, and salt.

@ Whisk in liquids.
@ Knead, or blend until dough is elastic, 5-10 min.

@ Roll out, and cut to desired shape. jq make sodium carbonate forthe alkaline ramen recipe in the table below, place some
© Dry (optional). See page 2-430 for dehydrating strategies. sodium bicarbonate in a shallow pan, and bake it in a 150 °C/300 °F oven fori h.

Best Bets for Pasta Doughs

Salt
Pasta Dry ingredient (scaling) Texturing agent (scaling) (scaling) Liquid (scaling) Dry
wheat 00 wheat flour 100% xanthan gum 1% 2.5% water 9% no
egg yolk 56.7%
neutral or olive oil 10.7%
buckwheat buckwheat flour, sifted 100% Activa RM 4% 1.75% milk 75% optional
all-purpose unbleached 50% egg yolks 37.5%
wheat flour olive oil 20%
semolina all-purpose bleached 25% albumin powder 2% 1.3% water 35% yes
wheat flour
semolina flour 100% white wine 7%
cocoa tajarin 00 wheat flour 100% vital gluten 4% 1.5% egg yolks 117% no
semolina flour 65% water 27%
cocoa powder 44% olive oil 22.5%
rice flour rice flour 100% konjac gum 10% 2.5% water 160% yes
tapioca starch 50%
glutinous rice flour 50%
alkaline ramen bread flour 100% sodium carbonate 0.9% 1.5% water 37.5% no
potassium carbonate 0.1%
from page 3-381

HERB-EMBEDDED PASTA VEIL Yields300g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

All-purpose unbleached 210 g 100% @ Combine to form smooth dough.
wheat flour © Knead forl2 min.
Water 50 g 24% @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 12 h.
Eggyolks 28 g 13.5%
Canola oil 7-2 g 3.5%
Toasted sesame oil 7-2 g 3.5%
Gluten flour 2-5g 1.2%
{!%)*
Salt Ig 0.5%
Cilantro, dill or other as desired ® Roll dough to 1 mm //m in thick.
small-leaved herbs © Divide into two sheets of equal length and width.
® Lay herbs individually on first sheet, and cover with second sheet.
@ Roll layered dough to 1 mm /fte in thick,
© Transferto flour-dusted, parchment paper-lined tray, and cover with damp cloth.
® Refrigerate until needed.
from page 3-383 *{% of total weight of all other ingredients)

PLANT FOODS 191

SPAGHETTI CARBONARA inspired by jEAN-FRANgois piece Yields 1.5 kg (about 30 portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whippingcream 200 g 200% @ Combine, and vacuum seal.

Bacon, thinly sliced 90 g 90% (D Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath for 2 h.

Parmesan, grated 20 g 20% @ Strain cream, and reserve warm.

Garlic, thinly sliced and 15g 15%

blanched

Water 1 kg 1,000% @ Boil spaghetti in salted water until al dente, about 8 min.

Dry spaghetti 100 g 100% © Transfer spaghetti to bacon cream, stirring to coat evenly.

Salt 20 g 20% © Arrange pasta strands straight and pressed against each other on sheet of plastic wrap.

@ Refrigerate coated strands until set, about 2 h.

Sodium citrate 2.3g 2.3% ® Dry blend.

Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.6 g 0.6%

F, CP Kelco brand) (0.26%)*
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.3 g 0.3%
LTIOO, CP Kelco brand) (0.13%)*

Whole milk 100 g 100% ® Disperse powder blend in milk and bringto simmer.

Parmesan cheese, finely 130 g 130% @ Shear cheese into simmering milk.
grated ® Cast into nonstick mold in layer 1 cm / % in thick.
@ Cool, and refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
® Cutset gel in strips measuring 5 cm by 10 cm / 2 in by 4 in.

@ Place strips over cold spaghetti ribbons.

@ Roll spaghetti with cheese strips into tight parcels.

Egg yolks, blended 50 g 50% @ Vacuum seal.

® Cook sous vide in 68 °C/ 154 °F bath for 35 min to form fluid gel.

@ Pass fluid yolk mixture through sieve.

@ Transferto squeeze bottle with 5 mm / lA in diametertip.

Chives, finely minced lOg 10% @ Steam spaghetti parcels until warmed through, about 4 min,

@ Pipe stripe of egg yolk fluid gel across each spaghetti parcel.

@ Garnish parcels with chives.

@ Serve carbonara with braised pork belly, or finish with fresh black truffles.

from page 3-384 *(% of total weight of whole milk and Parmesan cheese)

MAC AND CHEESE inspired by HAROLD MCCEE Yields400g(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 100 g 50% @ Whisk together.

Wheat beer 75 g 37.5% © Bringto simmer.

Sodium citrate lOg 5%

Salt 4.5 g 2.25%

lota carrageenan 1.25g 0.63%
(0.26%)*

Aged Gouda cheese. 200 g 100% © Hand-blend slowly into hot liquid until cheese is completely emulsified.
grated ® Transferto shallow bowl, and cool to room temperature.
Sharp Cheddar cheese. 85 g 42.5% © Refrigerate until set, about 30 min.
grated
© Grate coarsely.

Water 300 g 150% @ Boil together over high heat until pasta has absorbed most of water and is al dente, about

Macaroni (store-bought) 100 g 50% 7 min. Do not drain.

2.4 g 1.2% © Whisk 160 g of cheese and remaining liquid into pasta until cheese is melted.
Salt
from page 3-387 *(% of total weight of first two ingredients and cheeses)

192 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 PAD THAI ADAPTED FROM PIM T E C H A M U A N V I V I T Yields 500 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Palm sugar 56 g 18.5% © Combine, and bring to simmer until fully dissolved.
Fish sauce 40 g 13.5% @ Remove sauce from heat, and reserve.
Tamarind paste 18g 6 %
see page 145

Rice vinegar 11 g 3.5%

Dried baby shrimp 50 g 16.5% @ Pry baby shrimp over medium heat until golden brown, about 10 min.
Neutral oil as needed @ Transfer to paper towel-lined tray.
©Cool.

@ Mince finely, and reserve for garnish.

Rice stick noodles 300 g 100 % @ Coverwith warm water, and soak at room temperature for2 h.
Shrimp, peeled and 12 shrimp © Fry over medium heat until half cooked, about 1 min.
deveined
Neutral oil as needed
Bean sprouts, cut into 40 g 13.5% ® Add, and stir-fry until slightly wilted and shrimp are fully cooked, 1-2 min.
3 cm / IV4 in strips
@ Remove shrimp, bean sprouts, and garlic chives, leaving oil in pan.
Garlic chives, diced 24 g 8%
Shallot, minced 20 g 7% ® Add to pan, and increase heat to high. Cook until golden, about 45 s.
Garlic, minced lOg 3% @ Add soaked noodles, and stir-fry over high heat until translucent, 2-3 min.
Ginger, minced lOg 3% @ Remove from heat.
Egg, beaten 60 g 20 % @ Add to pan, stirring constantly until incorporated and cooked through, about 1 min.
@ Add 40 g of reserved sauce.
@ Cook over high heat for 1 min.

® Stir in cooked shrimp, bean sprouts, and garlic chives; remove from heat.
Lime juice to taste @ Season.
Salt to taste ® Add more sauce if necessary.
Pressure-cooked peanuts, 30 g 10 % @ Garnish with dried shrimp, peanuts, and chili powder.
finely ground
see page 151

Roasted chili powder to taste

from page 3-385

PASTAMARINARA inspired by h. Alexander TALBOT AND AKI KAMOZAWA Yields450g(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato water 500 g 100% @ Combine, and vacuum seal.
see page 40
@ Infuse refrigerated forl2 h.
Basil 5g 1%
© Strain tomato water.
Thyme leaves 2.5 g 0.5%
Bay leaf, julienne Ig 0.2%
Salt lOg 2% ® Season tomato water.
Spaghetti ortagliatelle 140 g 28% © Soak spaghetti in tomato water fori h.
(store-bought)
® Drain, reserving tomato water.

© Transfer tomato water and pasta to separate containers, and refrigerate. Pasta can be stored
for up to 8 h.

® Bring tomato water to boil. Add soaked pasta, and cook fori min 10 s.
® Drain.
Tomato confit, thinly 40 g 8% ® Toss with pasta to finish.
sliced
see page 179
Basil leaves, julienne 5g 1%
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
from page 3-386

PLANT FOODS 193

COCOA TAJARIN Yieids400g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

00 wheat flour 127 g 100% ® Combine.

Semolina flour 85 g 67%

Dutch processed cocoa 57 g 45%

powder
Vital wheat gluten 5g 4%

Salt 2g 1.5%

Egg yolks 153 g 120% @ Add to flour mixture, and knead forlO min to make dough.

Water 35 g 28% @ Vacuum seal. Refrigerate for 12 h.

Extra virgin olive oil 29 g 23% ® Roll into sheets 1 mm / '/s in thick.
® Cut into noodles 2 mm/ Yk in wide.
® Place on parchment paper, cover with damp towel, and refrigerate.

Deodorized cocoa butter 40 g 31.5% @ Melt cocoa butter, and reserve.

(food-grade) ® Cook noodles in boiling 3% salt water for 40 s.

@ Drain, and toss with melted cocoa butter.

Sea urchin butter warmed 100 g 79% @ Garnish tajarin.

from page 5-227

RAMEN NOODLES Yields 14.5 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

All-purpose flour 78 g 100% ® Mix together.

Semolina flour 57 g 73% @ form into mound.

Wheat gluten 2.5g 3.2% @ Make well in center.

Salt Ig 1.3%

Eggyolks, whisked 76.5 g 98% ® Combine, and pour into well.

Water 17.5 g 22% ® Mix slowly by hand until dough forms.

Neutral oil 14.5 g 18.5% ® Vacuum seal.

@ Rest at room temperature for at least 1 h.
® Roll with pasta roller into sheets 1 mm//ein thick.
@ Cut sheets into noodles 2 mm / j^sinwide.
@ Cook noodles in 3% salt solution for 30 s.

Ramen broth, warmed 400 g 513% ® Divide noodles and broth evenly among four bowls.
(not freeze-dried)
@ Garnish with zest.
see page 61
Yuzu zest, finely grated to taste
(fresh)
from page 5-250

BUCKWHEAT DOUGH Yields 525 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Buckwheat flour 200 g 100% ©Sift.

All-purpose flour lOOg 50% @ Combine with sifted buckwheat flour in food processor.

ActivaTI orRM 12 g 6% @ Process to mix thoroughly.

(4%)*

Salt 3.5 g 1.75%

Whole milk 150 g 75% ® Blend thoroughly into flour mixture.

Eggyolks 75 g 37.5% ® Transfer dough to floured surface, and knead for 10 min.

Grapeseed oil 40 g 20% © Vacuum seal.

@ Refrigerate for 12 h to allow enzyme to bind proteins.
® Roll dough with pasta roller into sheets 2 mm /'/ein thick.

@ Cut sheets into noodles 0.5 cm /Vsinwide.

@ Cook noodles in 3% salt solution for lyi min.

Oyster butter emulsion, lOOg 50% @ Toss noodles in oyster butter and serve.
warmed
see page 297
from page 5-234 *(% of total weight of both flours)

194 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 SEMOLINA PASTA Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING

Semolina flour 400 g 100%
All-purpose bleached wheat flour 100 g 25%
Water lOOg 25%
White wine (dry) 28 g 7%
Albumin powder 8g 2%
Salt 5.2 g 1.3%
from page 3-382

COMPRESSED AND IMPREGNATED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

® Peel, and cut the ingredients into even-size pieces. Arrange the Best Bets for Compressing or Impregnating Produce
food in a single layer in a sous vide bag.
Ingredient Liquid Seepage
@ Add liquid (optional). To impregnate the fruit or vegetable with
apple apple juice 2-338
a liquid, add it to the bag or container; see the table at right for
suggestions. apricot chamomile tea
@ Vacuum-seal by using full vacuum power. Rest the produce in asparagus asparagus juice
the bag or container for at least 10 min after the vacuum is celery blue-cheese water
released.
cucumber pickling brine 182
dragon fruit lychee juice
eggplant barbecue sauce diluted in water
fig port
grape, peeled verjuice (store-bought sour grape juice)
kiwi strawberry juice
lettuce smoked water this page
melon bacon water or prosciutto stock
onion pickling brine 178
peach vanilla syrup
pear red wine syrup
pineapple coconut water (store-bought or fresh), rum
plum almond milk
rhubarb grenadine syrup
strawberry thin cream infused with basil
tomato ketchup diluted in water
watermelon green tea
from page 3-390

SMOKED LETTUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 150 g 167% ® Mix together.

Hickory liquid smoke 0.8 g 0.9%
(Wright's brand) (three drops)

Iceberg lettuce, cut into 90 g 100% ® Pour smoky water over lettuce.
slices 1 cm/% in thick
@ Place container, uncovered, in vacuum chamber.

® Pull vacuum until water boils, and then turn off machine and allow lettuce to absorb smoky
waterin vacuum chamberfor20 min.
© Drain lettuce, and refrigerate.
from page 5-15

PLANT FOODS 195

CURRY-IMPREGNATED APPLE vieidsikg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

Apple juice 1 kg 100%

see page 2-338
Turmeric, freshly grated 20 g 2%
0.3% ® Vacuum seal juice and spices.
Black peppercorns (whole) 3g
0.2% @ Refrigerate for 12 h to infuse.
Corianderseeds 2g
0.15% @ Place apples in bowl, and cover with infused juice.
Cinnamon stick, toasted 1.5g
@ Place bowl in chamber sealer, and pull moderate vacuum. Release
Cardamom Ig 0.1%
vacuum when licjuid begins to boil, and then run vacuum cycle twice
Cloves (whole) Ig 0.1%
more to boil a total of three times.
Star anise, toasted Ig 0.1%
® Hold under vacuum for 15 min. After last cycle, turn machine off,
Saffron threads 0.2 g 0.02% and leave machine sealed. When apples have fully absorbed liquid,
Apples, peeled and cored 900 g 90% release vacuum, and remove food.

from page 3-393

YieldslOOg
COMPRESSED MUSCAT GRAPES
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

100 g 100% ® Blanch in boiling water for 20-45 s, dependingon ripeness. Riper grapes will require shorter
Muscat grapes
time.
@ Shock in ice-water bath, peel, and reserve.

Grape juice, clarified 100 g 100% @ Combine.

Verjuice (store-bought) 60 g 60% @ Taste for seasoning balance.

Fructose 12 g 12% ® Vacuum seal with peeled grapes to compress.

Malic acid 1.3g 1.3% ® Refrigerate for no more than 3-4 h before serving or grapes will become too soft.

Salt to taste

from page 5-110

COMPRESSED MELON TERRINE adapted from h. Alexander talbot and aki kamozawa Yieids675g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Forthe calcium lactate solution:

500 g 167% @ Disperse calcium lactate in water, and stir until fully dissolved.
Cold water
Calcium lactate 2.5g 0.8%
{0.5%)*

375 g 125% @ Vacuum seal planks in one even layer with calcium solution.
Honeydew melon.
cut into five planks, ® Refrigerate for 20 min.
eachl cm/Ys in thick, ® Remove from bag, and pat dry.
5 cm by 10 cm /2 in by 4 in
Cantaloupe, cut into fou r 300 g 100%
planks, each 1 cm / Ya in
thick, 5 cm by 10 cm /2 in
by 4 in
Forthe pectin solution:
500 g 167% ® Mix pectin in water, and blend until fully dispersed.
Cold water
5% ® Bring solution to boil while shearing for 1 min to fully hydrate.
LM pectin 15g
(Genupectin LM 104 AS, (3%)* ©Cool.
CP Kelco brand) ® Brush one calcium-infused cantaloupe plank with cooled pectin solution,
and lay calcium-infused honeydew plank on top.
@ Repeat brushing and layering process with remaining six planks.

@ Vacuum seal each stack to compress.

@ Refrigerate until bonded, about 12 h.
@ Cutterrines into slices, and serve.
*{%of total weight of water used in the individual solution)
from page 3-392

VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

196
WATERMELON MEAT inspired by andoni LUIS ADURIZ Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

Watermelon, peeled and white rind discarded 500 g 100%
Water lOOg 20%
Salt 5g 1%
from page 3-394

® Cut into 2.5 cm /1 in "steaks," Cut from surface, seedless part only,
reserving all remaining watermelon flesh for another use. Leave small lip
of white rind to mimic fat cap of steak, if desired.
@ Whisk together water and salt to make brine.
@ Vacuum seal watermelon steaks with brine, and refrigerate for 2 h.
@ Drain brined watermelon, and pat dry,

® Dehydrate slices at 55 °C/130 °F until dry and leather-like, 8-12 h.

® Brush slices with water, vacuum seal, and refrigerate. This will moisten
them just enough to keep them tender.
@ Serve as fun replacement for meat. See the plated-dish recipe for
Watermelon Bulgogi on page 5-285.

VEGETABLE COALS adapted from MUGARITZ Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cassava roots, peeled 675 g 100% ® Cut into 4.5 cm /1% in cubes.
White fish stock 350 g 52% @ Combinestockand ink.
see page 12
@ Mix with cassava cubes.
Squid ink 15 g 2.2%
@ Simmertogether until tender, 35-40 min.
Salt to taste
© Drain ink-stained cubes.
© Season.
from page 3-395

PULLED MUSHROOM inspired by h . ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AKI KAMOZAWA Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

KingTrumpet 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal oil with mushrooms.
mushrooms, sliced in @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194°F bath for 4 h.
half lengthwise
@ Drain on tray lined with papertowels.
Neutral oil 50 g 20%
@ Pull mushrooms apart into individual fibers.
Barbecue sauce to taste © Mix in, and serve.
see page 220
from page 3-396

PtANT FOODS 197

SQUlD-lNK BEAN-SPROUT RISOTTO
Yields 700 g(eight portions)
ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Bean sprouts 250 g 100% @ Cut offends.
@ Cut into 1 cm /Ys in sticks to resemble rice, and reserve.

Squid stock (or water) 50 g 20% @ Blend stock and ink, and reserve, refrigerated.
see page 6
Squid ink 2.5 g 1%

Squid stock (or water) 50 g 20% ® Disperse agar in stock, and bring to boil.

Agar(Texturas brand) 0.3 g 0.12% ® Simmer for 2 min, and remove from heat.
© Cast evenly into nonstick mold in layer! cm / % in thick.

@ Refrigerate until set, about 10 min.

® Cut squid jelly into cubes, and reserve.

Egg yolks 30 g 12% ® Blend.

Garlic, mashed 8g 3.2%

Extra-virgin olive oil 150 g 60% @ Drizzle slowly into yolks, while blending, until emulsified and mayonnaise forms.

Salt to taste @ Season and reserve.

Squid legs 75 g 30% ® Saute legs for 20 s on each side until just cooked through.

Neutral oil as needed @ Season, remove from pan, and reserve.

Salt as needed

Squid ink stock, from 50 g 20% @ Saute bean sprouts.

above ® Add squid ink stock to sauteed sprouts.
Neutral oil as needed @ Simmer together until risotto is just cooked through and still crunchy, about 2 min.
Lemon herb oil @ Portion risotto into four bowls.
see page 27
@ Garnish with squid jelly, garlic mayonnaise, squid legs, and parsley oil.

from page 3-397

FROZEN WHITE "TRUFFLE" adapted from quique dacosta

@ Disperse gelatin in cold soy milk, and then stir over medium heat until dissolved Yields 900 g
and fully hydrated.
@ Blend in cheese until melted and fully incorporated into the mixture. INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
160 Bloom gelatin 6g 2%
@ Strain and chill.
Soy milk 500 g 166%
@ Add white truffle oil, salt, and pepper, and then place in 1 1 whipping siphon.
Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Aged Parmesan cheese, 300 g 100%

© Melt mannitol in small saucepan, and bring to 200 °C / 390 °F. Add colored grated

powders, and then hold at 180 °C / 355 °F. White truffle oil 12 g 4%

© Dispense foam onto offset spatula in desired shapes. Insert bamboo skewer into Black pepper, finely ground 0.5 g 0.17%
each "truffle." Salt 6g 2%
@ Dip in liquid nitrogen. After dipping, baste with nitrogen to ensure even freezing. Mannitol 800 g 267%
® Swirl frozen truffle in warm mannitol to coat evenly and soften rough edges. Gold powder 2g 0.7%

© Refreeze in nitrogen. A brief dip will set mannitol shell. Bronze powder 0.2 g 0.07%
@ Thaw in refrigerator for 1 h. Parmesan cream will soften as it warms. Dried porcini powder 60 g 20%

@ Garnish with porcini powder. from page 3-400

198 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 CLAY POTATOES adapted from andoni luis aduriz Yields 200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 3 kg 1,500% © Combine in pot.
Salt 24 g 12%
Whole baby Yukon Gold 200 g 100% @ Simmerin salted waterfor20 min, until cooked but still firm.
potatoes, skins on
@ Strain.

© Place on bamboo skewers, and reserve warm.

Water 40 g 20% © Combine.
Kaolin clay 30 g 15% ® Dip warm skewered potatoes into clay mixture to coat.
Lactose 20 g 10% @ Place two cooling racks in deep hotel pan, one on bottom and one on top.
Carbon black powder 1.5g 0.75% ® Thread skewers to stand upright in racks.
© Dry in 45 °C/115 °F oven forl5 min.

® Transfer potatoes from skewers to serving plates.

Garlic confit lOOg 50% ® Blend.
see page 176

Egg yolks 40 g 20%

Extra-virgin olive oil 250 g 125% ® Blend into garlic and yolk mixture until emulsified and aioli forms.
Salt to taste ® Season aioli, and serve with warm potatoes.
from page 3-398

FOSSILIZED SALSIFY BRANCH adapted from andoni luis aduriz Yields 350 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 500 g 125% © Whisk calcium hydroxide into water to make brine.
Calcium hydroxide 4.5 g 1.13%
(0.9%)*

Salsify root, scrubbed 400 g 100% @ Soak in brine at room temperature for 3 h; stir every 30 min to ensure that calcium hydroxide is
and peeled (four medium distributed evenly.

@ Remove from brine, and rinse.

____® Bake in 170 °C / 340 °F oven for 45 min, and reserve warm.
Salted cod roe or pollock 100 g 25% © Whisk and reserve.

Extra-virgin olive oil 16 g 4%

Sea beans (Salicornia) 40 g 10% ©Toss.
Extra-virgin olive oil 10 g 2-5% @ Place salsify root in center of each warmed plate.
® Garnish evenly with fish roe and sea beans.
from page 3-399 *{% of weight of water usedfor brine)

PLANT FOODS 199

TRADITIONAL STARCH THICKENERS

® Disperse by mixing the starch with whatever liquid you want to thicken @ Heat to at least 80 °C /176 °F to hydrate. Use a water bath if available; if
until a slurry forms. heating on a stove top, stir the mixture constantly. The starch solution
will change from milky to clear when it is fully hydrated.

Best Bets for Thickening with Natural Starch

Starch Texture Translucency Elavor Application (scaling)* Heat-sensitive Stable when thawed
arrowroot creamy clear neutral broths 1% no unstable
jus, gravies 2%
corn creamy opaque strong broths 1.50% yes unstable
veloute, cream sauce 2.0%-2.5%
gravies 3%-4%
puddings 5.0%-6.5%
set gels 9%
kudzu gelatinous clear neutral broths 2% no unstable
glazes 5%-7%
dense puddings, tofu 12%
potato sticky clear subtle broths 1% yes unstable
jus, gravies 2%
stir-fry sauces 2.5%
rice sticky opaque subtle glazes 3.0%-3.5% yes unstable
soups 4%-5%
puddings, purees 7%-8%
tapioca sticky clear neutral broths 1.5%-2.0% somewhat stable
jus, gravies 2.5%-3.0%
fruit fillings 4%-5%
waxy corn creamy opaque subtle broths 1% no stable
low-fat salad dressings 2.50%
gravies 4%
wheat creamy Opaque strong veloute, cream sauce 2.5% yes stable
gravies 3.0%-3.5%
bechamel 4%-5%
from page 4-28 *{set weight of liquid to be thickened to 100%)

PREGELATINIZED STARCH PASTE Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 50 g 12.5% ® Whisk starch into water until fully dispersed.

Tapioca starch 50 g 12.5% @ Vacuum seal mixture.

@ Cook sous vide in 80 °C /176 °F bath for 2 h.

Water, hot 400 g 100% ® Blend in hot water until fully incorporated while the paste Is still warm.
® Strain, cool, and store vacuum-sealed at room temperature.

from page 4-29

200 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

MODERN STARCH THICKENERS
@ Select a thickening agent from the table below. Note that starches marked @ Whisk the starch into the liquid to be thickened by hand. Do not i
as unstable below may break down upon heating or upon thawing from a a blender, which can make the mixture gluey or stringy.
frozen state.
@ Heat to hydrate if necessary. Bring Pure Cote B790 and Wondra to a
simmer to hydrate fully; heat Novation PRIM A 600 to 75 °C/167 °F.

Best Bets for Thickening with Modified Starch

Stable when
Scaling See
Product Brand Source range* Translucency Texture EHeated Tbawed Example use (scaling)* page
N-Zorbit M National tapioca 20%- nearly swelled unstable unstable oil powders 30%-40% 207
Starch 100% opaque granules oil pastes 85%-100% 206
bulking gels, 5%-20%
sauces
Ultra-Sperse 3 National tapioca 0.2%-8% nearly to fully smooth stable stable meat gravies, jus 3%-4% 204
Starch opaque puddings 6%-8%
Flojel 60 National corn 1%-10% opaque smooth. stable unstable cream sauce 4%
Starch stringy puddings 7%
Novation National corn l%-7% opaque smooth stable stable broths 2.0%-2.5%
Prima 600 Starch purees 4%
Ultra-Tex 8 National tapioca 1%-10% nearly creamy stable unstable cream sauce 3.0%-3.5%
Starch opaque meat gravies, jus 4%
purees 6%
puddings 8%
Pure-Cote CPC corn 0.5%- clear smooth stable unstable films 12% 229
B790 20% thickened juices 15%
Maltrin GPC corn l%-30% clear smooth stable stable thin sauces 10%
purees 20%
Wondra General barley malt, 1%-15% opaque smooth stable unstable gravies, veloute 6%-7%
Mills wheat bechamel 8%-9%
from page 4-30 *{set weight of liquid to be thickened to 100%)

AVOCADO PUREE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Hass avocado, peeled 140 g 100% @ Puree until smooth.
Ultra-Sperse 5 5g 3.6% @ Transferto squeeze bottle.
(National Starch brand)
@ Pipe dots of avocado puree onto plates. Char lightly with blowtorch.
Ascorbic acid 1.4 g 1%
Limejuice 1.4g 1%
Salt to taste

from page 5-207

THICKENERS 201
MODERNIST BECHAMEL Yieids2i5g
INSPIRED BY AKI KAMOZAWA AND H. ALEXANDER TALBOT

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

All-purpose bleached flour 250 g 125% @ Combine, and divide mixture among three 500 ml / I pt Mason jars.

Unsalted butter, melted 250 g 125% (D Seal jars, and place them upright in pressure cooker.
@ Fill pressure cooker with waterto middle ofjars.
@ Pressure-cook fat at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for2 h.
(D Cool resulting roux at room temperature; measure 15 g for recipe, and refrigerate
remainderfor later use.

Whole milk, 200 g 100% ® Whisk together with reserved roux until smooth to form bechamel.
warmed to 45 °C /113 °F @ Warm bechamel to desired temperature.
Pressure-cooked roux, from 15g 7.5%
above
Ultra-Sperse 3 7g 3.5%
(National Starch brand)
Lambda carrageenan 0.2 g 0.1%
(Texturas brand)
Nutmeg, freshly grated to taste ® Season.

Salt to taste

from page 4-31

The bechamel can also be made by using!.25% (2.5 g) lambda carrageenan If pressure-cooked in a canningjar, the roux can be stored without refrig-
ratherthan the amount indicated above and substituting 1% (2 g) pregelati- eration. It has effectively been canned (see page 2-88). Once opened, it
nized starch paste forthe Ultra-Sperse 3. For more details, see page 200. must be refrigerated.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE PUDDING Yields 160 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Jerusalem artichokes, thinly 200 g 200% @ Combine in nonstick pan.
sliced ® Cook artichoke slices over medium heat until golden brown and very tender, about
Neutral oil 20 g 20% 20 min.

Whole milk 400 g 400% @ Puree milk with cooked artichokes until smooth.
@ Pass puree through fine sieve; reserve 100 g of artichoke puree for recipe.

Jerusalem artichoke puree, 100 g 100% ® Blend with reserved puree to form pudding.
from above ® Divide pudding equally amongfoursmall bowls.
Ultra-Sperse 3 3g 3% @ Cover and refrigerate bowls of pudding.
(National Starch brand)
Xanthan gum 0.2 g 0.2%

Lambda carrageenan 0.1 g 0.1%

(Texturas brand)
Jerusalem artichokes, thinly 25 g 25% ® Heat oil to 190 °C/375 °F.
sliced @ Add artichokes, and fry until golden brown, approximately 2 min.
Grapeseed oil as needed @ Transfer artichokes to tray lined with paper towels, and cool.

Roasted-hazelnut oil 8g 8% ® Drizzle oil evenly over each bowl of pudding.

Roasted hazelnuts, quartered lOg 10% @ Garnish puddings.

Pickled Jerusalem artichoke, 6g 6%

fine julienne
see page 178
Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated 5g 5%

Flaky salt to taste @ Season puddings.

® Top with fried artichokes.

from page 4-31

202 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

STEAMED COD WITH COD ROE VELOUTE Yields four portions
ADAPTED FROM MIGUEL SANCHEZ ROMERA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White fish stock 50 g 100% ® Blend together.
see page 6
Pregelatinized starch paste 20 g 40%
see page 200
Water 25 g 50% @ Combine warm, and stir until dissolved to make syrup.

Sugar lOg 20% @ Cool completely.

Lemon juice lOg 20% ® Add juice and zest to syrup.

Lemon zest 2.5 g 5% @ Blend syrup with fish stock mixture to make veloute.

Cod fillet 300 g 600% ® Cut loin into four portions of 75 g each.
@ Vacuum seal portions individually.
(D Cook sous vide in 43 °C/109 °F bath to core temperature of 42 °C/108 °F,
about 25 min.

Salted cod roe (ortobiko) 30 g 60% @ Warm veloute.

® Whisk in roe.

Salt to taste ® Season roe veloute.

Garlic oil 50 g 100% @ Place one cooked loin portion in centerofeach offourbowls.
see page 28
@ Spoon roe veloute over loins.
@ Drizzle oil on top.

from page 4-32

SMOKED PEPPER PUREE Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Goulash broth, 185 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.

see page 19
@ Cook sous vide in 85 °C /185 °F bath for 2 h.
Red bell pepper, 30 g 16%
@ Blend to fine puree.
thinly sliced
@ Pass through fine sieve.
Red onion, thinly sliced 23 g 12.5%
© Measure 200 g.
Cured ham, thinly sliced 15 g 8%
Smoked Hungarian 8g 4.5%
paprika
Red wine vinegar to taste ® Season puree.
Salt to taste
Ultra-Sperse 5 5,2 g 2.8% @ Whisk into puree.
(National Starch brand) (2.6%)* ® Reheat and serve, or refrigerate until use.

from page 4-5 *(% of total weight of pepper puree)

CARAMELIZED CREME FRAICHE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Creme fraTche 250 g 100% ® Combine.

Bakingsoda 2.5 g 1% @ Pressure-cook in Mason jars at gauge pressure of
1 bar/15 psi for2V2 h.
@ Cool.

Garlic confit, sieved 50 g 20% @ Blend into creme fraTche.

see page 176 Raising the pH level (by adding
baking soda) and pressure-cooking
Pregelatinized starch 3.75 g 1.5%
paste (or Ultra-Sperse 3) temperature greatly accelerates the
see page 200 Maillard reaction that produces a

Salt to taste © Season brown color and distinct flavor.

© Serve, or refrigerate until use.

from page 4-5

THICKENERS 203
POMEGRANATE AND GARUM JUS Yields 550 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown duck stock 200 g 100% © Combine.
see page 6
@ Biringto boil.
Pomegranate juice 34 g 17% ©Cool.

Garum (orfish sauce) 20 g 10%

Malt vinegar as needed @ Season jus with vinegar.

Ultra-Sperse 3 4.8 g 2.4% ® Blend in Ultra-Sperse 3 to thicken.

(National Starch brand)
© Serve, or refrigerate until use.

from page 5122

TURKEY WING Yields 300 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Turkey wings, ends cut off 300 g 100% @ Mix salt and sugar and rub evenly onto wings.
Salt 9g 3% @ Vacuum seal.
Sugar 3g 1% © Refrigerate to cure for 24 h.

@ Remove cured wings from bags; rinse off cure.

Clarified butter 15g 5% © Vacuum seal wings with butter.
® Cook sous vide in 58 °C/136 °F bath for 12 h.

@ Remove wings from bag while still hot; carefully debone without rupturing meat.
® Refrigerate.
Potato starch 25 g 8.3% @ Coat wings with starch.
Frying oil as needed ® Pourthin film of oil in nonstick pan.
Sage, leaves as needed ® Fry coated wings for 2 min on each side.

® Transfer to serving plates, and garnish with gravy and whole sage leaves.
from page 4-33

THANKSGIVING TURKEY GRAVY Yields 245 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown chicken orturkey stock 600 g 300% © Reduce to 200 g, and reserve.
see page 6

Reduced chicken orturkey 200 g 100% ©Blend reduced stock and garlic confit together to make gravy.
stock, from above © Whisk in Ultra-Sperse 3.
Garlic confit, pureed 25 g 12.5% @ Warm gravy to 70 °C/160 °F.
see page 176

Ultra-Sperse 3 8g 4%
Dried cranberries, finely lOg 5% © Whisk into warm gravy.
minced
Sage, finely minced 2g 1%
Black peppercorns, coarsely 0.15 g 0.075%
ground
Salt to taste ® Season gravy.
from page 4-33

204 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 HEATHER-SMOKED STURGEON RILLETTES Yields 200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, finely minced 15 g 15% (Y) Marinate shallots at room temperature for30 min.
White balsamic vinegar 13 g 13%
Heather-smoked 100 g 100% @ Shred sturgeon.
sturgeon
see page 122 @ Combine shallots, sturgeon, and remaining
ingredients in stand mixer. Store-bought sturgeon can be
Basic mayonnaise 75 g 75% , , substituted in this recipe.
see page 303 (£) Whip on medium-high speed until fluffy and all
ingredients are well incorporated.
Celery, finely minced 9%
9g
® Refrigerate until use.
Chives, minced 5g 5%
Celery leaf, minced 1.5g 1.5%
Chervil, minced l-5g 1.5%
Tarragon, minced l-5g 1.5%
Smoked salt l-2g 1.2%
Ultra-Sperse 3 l-2g 1.2%
(National Starch brand)
Lime zest, finely grated Ig 1%
Lemon juice 0.7g 0.7%
from page 5-235

CRISPY GOAT'S MILK RICOTTA DUMPLING

Tie CIS290 P
ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE ®

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Goat milk ricotta or cow 200 g 100% ® Blend together fully.
milk ricotta
store-bought or see page 248

Heavy cream 80 g 40%

Salt 2.8 g 1.4%
Black pepper 0.5 g 0.25%
Ultra-Tex 4 8g 4% (2) Fold into ricotta mixture.
(National Starch brand) (3%)*
® Roll into logs3 cm/2'/4 in. in diameter on nonstick surface, using your palms.
@ Cut logs crosswise into 3 cm / 2(4 in pieces.

® Arrange pieces on nonstick baking sheet and refrigerate until use

Frying oil as needed
® To serve, dehydrate dumplings in 45 °C /115 °F oven for 45 min.

@ Deep-fry dumplings in 195 °C / 385 °F oil until crispy and golden, about 1 min, and drain on
paper towels.
from page 5-274
(A of total weight of goat's milk ricotta and heavy cream)

MARCONA ALMOND BUTTER PASTE

Yields 350g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Raw Marcona almonds 500 g 143% ® Roast in 175 °C / 350 °F oven until golden, about 15 min.

@ Process roasted nuts with colloid mill orfood processor until smooth, and measure 350 g
Marcona almond butter, 350 g 100% @ Blend togetherto thicken.
from above
Ultra-Sperse 5 10.5 g 3%
(National Starch brand)
Salt to taste
® Season butter, and refrigerate until use. Before use, temper at room temoerature forlS min
from page 5-282 ~

THICKENERS
205
MALT VINEGAR POWDER Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Spray-dried maitvinegar 200 g 100% (T) Grind together, and sift through fine sieve.

Acetic acid 40 g 20% (D Season with salt to taste.

Salt 36 g 18% @ Store in an airtight container in dark, cool place.
Sugar 12 g 6%
N-ZorbitM 8g 4%
(National Starch brand)
from page 4-34

BACON POWDER SQUARES adapted from grant achatz Yieidszsog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Smoked bacon fat, rendered 100 g 100% @ Warm bacon fat just enough to liquefy it.
see page 3-145

N-ZorbitM 80 g 80% @ Whisk bacon fat into N-Zorbit M a little at a time until fully incorporated with powder.
(National Starch brand)
Salt to taste (D Season powder.

Black pepper, fine powder to taste @ Form powder into squares 13 mm/ Yi in wide, and set aside.

Pineapple glass 70 g 70% ® Cut glass into squares 5 cm / 2 in wide.

see page 187
® Place one single bacon powder square in center of each glass square.
@ Fold glass squares over bacon powder squares to form small packets.
® Serve immediately, or store packets in cool, dry environment.

from page 4-34

PARMESAN NUGGETS insp IRED BY FERRAN ADRIA Yields35g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Parmesan, grated 100 g 100% ® Microwave until oil separates from solids.
@ Strain; reserve 10 g of oil for recipe.

N-ZorbitM 25 g 25% ® Whisk oil into N-Zorbit M a little at a time, until fully incorporated. Resulting powder may
(National Starch brand) be used as seasoning.
@ Spoon thin layer of resulting powder into nonstick pan.
® Saute powder over low heat; swirl constantly until small spheres form and begin to dry.
® Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate.

from page 4-35

SPICED ASH Yields 80 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pain d'epices powder 45 g 100% ® Whisk together.
see page 51

Carbon color powder 8.5 g 19%

(MSK brand)

Kaolin clay powder 7g 15.5%

(Meadowsweet Herbs
and Oils brand)

Roasted hazelnut oil 12g 27% @ Whisk oil slowly into N-Zorbit M.

N-ZorbitM lOg 22% ® Incorporate tinted spice blend thoroughly.

(National Starch brand)

from page 5-22

206 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

VANILLA OLIVE OIL POWDER adapted from grant achatz Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Confectioner's sugar 80 g 80% @ Dry blend.
N-ZorbitM 160g 160%
(National Starch brand)
Vanilla pulp and seeds 14 g 14%
(from four beans)
Salt 4g 4%
Olive oil lOOg 100% @ Whisk into powder until fully incorporated.
@ Press through fine tamis to remove clumps.
@ Store in airtight container in cool, dry place.
from page 4-35

CASHEW HALVAH Yields 130 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cashews, roasted TOO g 100% @ Combine.
N-Zorbit M 30 g 30% ©Grind to fine powder.
(National Starch brand)
© Refrigerate until use.
Salt T5g 1.5%
from page 5-93

ALMOND POLENTA adapted from WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 575 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Marcona almonds, 250 g 100% @ Whisk together.
toasted and finely grated
© Set dry mixture aside.
N-Zorbit M 30 g 12%
(National Starch brand) (5%)*
Ultra-Sperse M 5g 2%
(National Starch brand) {0.9%)*
Xanthan gum 0.4 g 0.16%
White chicken stock 250 g 100% @ Pour stock into pot.
see page 6 and page 11
® Whisk in dry mixture from above.

© Cook over medium heat; stir until just thickened, about 3 min.
Sweet almond oil 40 g 16% © Whisk in.
Salt to taste @ Season.
from page 4-36 *(% of total weight of all ingredients)

THICKENERS 207
EDIBLE EARTH INSPIRED BY RENE REDZEPI AND WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 475 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Almond flour, toasted 200 g 100% @ Blend in food processor until resembles soil.

Black bread, thinly sliced and 150 g 75%

dehydrated at 135 “C/ 275 °F
N-ZorbitM 20 g 10%
This is our homage to the edible
(National Starch brand)
landscapes of Michel Bras (Le
Barley malt powder 18.5g 9,25% Cargouillou de Jeunes Legumes),
Dried chicory root, coarsely 17g 8,5% David Kinch (Into the Vegetable
ground Carden), and the many modern

7.5% chefs who have simulated the

Dried porcini powder 15 g
aesthetics of nature in their dishes,
Freeze-dried shiitake powder 14 g 7%
including Quique Dacosta, Ferran
see page 188
and Albert Adria, Andoni Luis
Crapeseed oil 31 g 15.5% @ Drizzle into dry mixture while continuingto
Aduriz, Yoshiaki Takazawa, and
4.5% blend with food processor until oil is fully
Toasted-pumpkin seed oil 9g Sam Mason, among others.
incorporated.

Caramel color powder as needed @ Adjust color if necessary.

Salt to taste @ Season,

® Transferto airtight container and store in cool,
dry place.

from page 4-37

208 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

CORN PEBBLES ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 95 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Corn, freeze-dried and 30 g 100% © Dry blend.
ground into powder
see page 188 orstore-bought

N-Zorbit M 15g 50%

(National StarcFi brand)
Spray-dried buttermilk 15 g 50%
see page 59 orstore-bought

Smoked-grapeseed oil 6g 20% @ Combine oils.

(store-bought) @ Whisk into powder mixture until fully incorporated.
Crapeseed oil 30 g 100%
Salt to taste @ Season resulting corn pebble base.

® Form into 1 cm /% in diameter balls; wearing latex gloves will help.

® Bake in 135 °C / 275 °F oven until balls become lightly golden and begin to firm, about
6 min.
@ Serve immediately, or store in airtight container in cool, dry place.
from page 4-36

THICKENERS 209
 THICKENED HOT AND COLD LIQUIDS

® choose the amount of thickening desired and a corresponding formula. stirred directly into cold liquids; those listed as hot-soluble can be stirred
We recommend those listed in the tables that follow. Proportions are into hot liquids. Otherwise, stir the agent into a small amount of cold
given relative to the weight of liquid used. For example, add 0.5 g of guar liquid to dissolve it, and then add it to the remaining liquid, and finally
gum and 0.35 g of xanthan gum to every 100 g of carrot juice to make a whisk to disperse it.
thick, hot carrot sauce.
@ Hydrate fully. Heat as directed in the hydration column of the tables.
@ Disperse the thickeners. Thickening agents listed as cold-soluble can be Temperatures indicated are the minimum required for proper hydration.

Best Bets for Thickening Hot Liquids

Amount of Hydrate
thickening Thickeners (scaling)* (“C) (”F) (min) Heat stability Note Example use
very little xanthan gum 0.2% hot or cold thins at high temp light consommes
lambda carrageenan 0.1% cold yes best used in dairy applications and broths,
flavored milks
little gum arabic 10% slightly opaque, not suited to constructed
60 140 5 yes
160 Bloom gelatin 3% clear liquids broths, light
lambda carrageenan 0.25% cold yes best used in dairy applications soups
xanthan gum 0.35% hot or cold thins at high temp
moderate propylene glycol 0.65% 82 180 3 cream sauces.
alginate
veloutes, soups
microcrystalline 1.5% cold yes
cellulose
gum tragacanth 0.35%
lambda carrageenan 0.4% 82 180 3 thickens at high high-calcium solutions may
locust bean gum 0.2% temp become too thick
great guar gum 0.5% hot or cold thins at high temp good for liquids with a high soups and
xanthan gum 0.35% ratio of suspended solids, coating sauces.
slightly opaque veloutes
160 Bloom gelatin 9% 60 140 5 yes sucrose, fructose or another, meat glazes.
glucose syrup DE40 4% less sweet sugar solid may be constructed jus
cellulose gum LV 0.5% substituted (see page 34)
lambda carrageenan 0.8% cold yes best used in dairy applications light puddings
very great xanthan gum 0.3% cold yes purees and
lambda carrageenan 0.7% spreads, thick
cellulose gum LV 1.2% room 30 thickens at high shear for 5 min after dispersing glazes, savory
konjac gum 0.15% temperature temp to ensure konjac fully hydrates; puddings
xanthan gum 0.15% best texture when fat concen-
tration is above 12%
from page 4-46 *{set weight of liquid to be thickened to 100%)

210 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

Best Bets for Thickening Cold Liquids
Amount of Hydrate

thickening Thickeners (scaling)* (°C) (°F) (min) Note Example use

very little guar gum 0.35% hot or cold opaque, not suited for clear liquids flavored milks

xanthan gum 0.15% hot or cold cold consommes

little lambda carrageenan 0.15% cold broths, light soups

xanthan gum 0.10%

xanthan gum 0.25% hot or cold broths, light soups

moderate guar gum 0.25% cold cold cream sauces

cellulose gum LV 0.50%

lambda carrageenan 0.25% cold light fruit and vegetable

xanthan gum 0.15% purees, soups

xanthan gum 0.4% hot or cold light fruit and vegetable

purees, soups

great konjac gum 0.3% 82 180 3 shear for 5 min after dispersing to gazpachos and other cold

locust bean gum 0.1% ensure that konjac hydrates fully soups

cellulose gum LV 1.0% cold opaque, not suited for clear liquids coating sauces

lambda carrageenan 0.5%

very great gum tragacanth 0.5% cold best texture when fat concentration pastes, thick purees

xanthan gum 0.2% is above 12%

cellulose gum LV 2.25% 82 180 3 best texture when solids ratio is high

propylene glycol 0.50%

alginate

from page 4-46 *{set weight of liquid to be thickened to 100%)

HAM CONSOMME WITH MELON BEADS adapted fr OM FERRAN ADRIA Yields600g(10servings)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water, cold 500 g 200% @ Combine, and simmerforlS min.

Iberico ham, excess fat 250 g 100% (D Cool completely, and remove congealed fat from surface of broth.
removed, thinly sliced @ Pass broth through fine sieve, and reserve 250 g of consomme.

Iberico ham consomme, 250 g 100% @ Blend thoroughly with consomme.

from above © Refrigerate for later use.
Xanthan gum 0.6 g 0.24%
(Texturas brand)
Melon juice 500 g 200% © Blend together until dissolved.
see page 2-336 (from about © Vacuum seal to remove any trapped air.
800 g of melon)
© Transfer to Texturas-style syringe.
Sodium alginate (Algin, 2g 0.8%
Texturas brand) (0.4%)*

Water 500 g 200% @ Blend together until fully dissolved.

Calcium chloride 2.5 g 1% @ Expel juice from syringe, one droplet at a time, into calcium chloride bath.
@ Remove resulting beads from bath after 3 min, and rinse beads in clean water bath.
@ To serve, fill 10 champagne flutes with 50 g each of cold ham consomme.
@ Spoon 10 g of melon juice beads into each flute; beads will remain suspended.

Black peppercorns, to taste @ Garnish.

finely ground
from page 4-48 *(% of weight of melon juice)

THICKENERS 211
TOMATO WHEY BROTH Yields 230 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato water lOOg 100% © Whisk together.
see page 40

Whey, from making goat milk lOOg 100%

ricotta
see page 248

Lambda carrageenan 0.20 g 0.2% @ Dry blend together.

(Texturas brand) (0.1%)* © Blend into tomato-whey mixture until fully hydrated.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.20 g 0.2% @ Refrigerate.
CP Kelco brand) (0.1%)*
Salt to taste © Season just before serving, orwhey will curdle.
Tomato vinegar (optional) to taste © Serve cold with fresh mozzarella or on tomato salad.
see page 315 or lemon juice

from page 4-49 *(% of total weight of tomato water and whey)

TRUFFLE JUS inspired by marc VEYRAT Yields250g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, finely minced 30 g 30% ® Cook together over low heat until tender, about 5 min.

Clarified butter 15 g 15%

Black peppercorns, ground 0.5 g 0.5%
Red port (dry) 40 g 40% © Add to pan of cooked shallots.

Red wine (dry) 40 g 40% © Simmertogetherfor2 min to cook offalcohol flavor.

® Keep port base hot for later use.

Mushroom jus, cold lOOg 100% © Disperse gum into cold mushroom jus.
see page 37
© Whisk mushroom jus into hot port base.
Konjac gum (Ticagel 0.54 g 0.54%
@ Bring to simmer, and blend continuously for 5 min to ensure konjac is fully dispersed.
Konjac HV, TIC Gums brand) (0.3%)*
Black truffles, vacuum-packed, 35 g 35% ® Whisk into warm mushroom jus and wine mixture.
frozen, thawed, then minced
Black truffle oil 7g 7%

Dark cocoa powder 4g 4%

Thyme essential oil 0.05 g 0.05%
Salt to taste ® Remove jus from heat.

Sherry vinegar to taste @ Season.

from page 4-53 *(% of total weight of red port wine and mushroom jus)

BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH JUS DE ROTI Yields 500 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beeftenderloin 400 g 400% © Vacuum seal together.

Rendered beef marrow or suet 40 g 40% @ Cook sous vide in 53 °C /127 °F bath to core temperature of 52 °C /126 °F.

Brown beef stock lOOg 100% © Combine.

see page 10
0 Bring jus to low simmer to dissolve solids.
160 Bloom gelatin 9g 9%
Fructose 2.5 g 2.5%
D-Ribose Powder 1.75 g 1.75%
(Solgar brand)
Cellulose gum 0.5 g 0.5%
(Cekol LVD, CP Kelco brand)
Koji-Aji (Ajinomoto brand) 0.4 g 0.4%
Caramel coloring 0.2 g 0.2%
Malic acid to taste © Season jus, and serve with sliced beeftenderloin.
Salt to taste

from page 4-54

212 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

OLIVE OIL SPREAD Yields 325g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Deodorized cocoa butter lOOg 44% @ Heat to 40 °C /104 °F to melt.
Olive oil 225 g 100% @ Blend with melted butter.
@ Allow mixture to harden at room temperature.
@ Blend again to silky consistency.
Black pepper, ground 1g 0.4% @ Whisk into spread.
Thyme essential oil (optional) 0,2 g 0.09%
Rosemary essential oil 0,1 g 0.04%
(optional)
Fleurdesel to taste ® Season, and warm at room temperature for 20 min before serving.
from page 4-51

WHITE GRAPE SYRUP Yields 430 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Muscat grapes 2 kg 500% ® Juice with Champion juicer or similar appliance.
(orotherwhite grapes)
@ Clarify juice with pressure or vacuum filtration.
@ Reserve 400 g.
Clarified grape juice, from 400 g 100% @ Blend.
above
® Adjust sweetness and acidity to taste.
Fructose 20 g 5%
Malic acid 4,5 g 1.1%
Cellulose gum 1% ® Shear into juice mixture.
(Cekol LVD, CP Kelco brand) @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate syrup.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, l-2g 0.3%
CP Kelco brand)
from page 4-52

XO SAUCE Yields 275 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Brown pork stock 250 g 125% ® Combine, and vacuum seal.
see page 6
@ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath fori h.
Cured ham, finely minced 60 g 30%
@ Strain, and press solids to remove as much liquid as possible.
Ginger, peeled and 40 g 20%
@ Measure 200 g of infused stock, and cool.
thinly sliced
Agave nectar (or honey) lOg 5%
Infused pork stock, 200 g 100% ® Shear into reserved stock to hydrate.
from above
Cellulose gum 2g 1%
(Cekol LV, CP Kelco brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.5 g 0.25%
CP Kelco brand)
Salted dried shrimp, minced 14g 7% ® Fry together until tender, about 2 min.
Ginger, minced '2g 6% @ Blot excess oil with papertowels.
Dried scallop, minced 7g 3.5% ® Fold mixture into thickened stock base.
Fermented black beans, 7g 3.5% ® Serve with Deep-Fried Custard (page 255), or cool and refrigerate.
minced
Garlic, minced 7g 3.5%
Dried red chilies, 3g 1.5%
seeded and minced
Frying oil 5g 2.5%
from page 4 52

THICKENERS 213
CARAMELIZED COCONUT CREAM Yields 550 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Coconut milk 350 g 350% ® Combine.
Palm sugar 50 g 50% @ Pressure-cook mixture at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi forl'A h.
Baking soda 1.5g 1.5% (D Cool completely; liquid may curdle as it cools, which is normal.
Coconut water lOOg 100% ® Blend until PGA is completely dissolved.
(canned orfresh) ® Combine with coconut milk mixture.
Propylene glycol alginate (Protanal 1,75 g 1.75%
Ester BV, EMC BioPolymer brand) (0.35%)*
Young coconut meat 50 g 50% ® Add to coconut milk mixture, and blend until smooth.
(frozen orfresh) @ Strain through fine sieve.
® Refrigerate.

from page 4-50 *{% of total weight of all ingredients)

PRESSURE-COOKED POLENTA WITH STRAWBERRY MARINARA Yields boo g (12 portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Forthe strawberry marinara:

Strawberries, thinly sliced 220 g 88% @ Combine all ingredients in pot, and simmer until reduced and thickened, about
Heirloom tomato, peeled 190g 76% 90 min.

Strawberryjuice, clarified 185 g 74%

Sweet onion, finely minced 100 g 40%
White wine (dry) 100 g 40%
Garlic, thinly sliced and blanched 3g 1.2%
Basil leaves, torn 2g 0.8%
Tarragon leaves, crushed 2g 0.8%
Strawberry marinara, from above 250 g 100% @ Whisk gum into marinara base until fully dispersed.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.6 g 0.24%
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste @ Season marinara, and reserve.
Lime juice to taste
Forthe corn husk consomme:
Water 1 kg 400% ® Line baking sheet with corn husks, and toast in 205 °C/ 400 °F oven for 10 min.
Corn husks, fresh 125 g 50% ® Flip husks, and toast for another 5 min until deep golden brown.
® Combine husks with water, and simmerfor30 min to infuse. Strain and reserve.
Cellulose gum 2g 0.8% @ Blend gum into consomme base, and season.
(Cekol LVD, CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)*
Fructose to taste 4%
Salt to taste

Forthe polenta:

Clarified butter 15 g 6% ® Saute polenta in butter until golden, 3-4 min.

Stone-ground polenta lOOg 40% ® Cool completely.
Corn juice, clarified 300 g 120% @ Combine with toasted polenta, and vacuum seal.
® Place in pressure cooker, and cover with water. Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
1 bar/ 15 psi for8 min.
Mascarpone 20 g 8% @ Remove cooked polenta from bag, and whisk in mascarpone and ricotta.
see page 226 orstore-bought
® Season with salt.
Ricotta salata, grated 15 g 6%
@ Divide among bowls, and garnish with strawberry marinara.
Salt to taste
© Pour some consomme over polenta at table.

from page 4-50 *{% of total weight of com husk consomme)

214 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 CREAMED SPINACH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Baby spinach, cleaned 150 g 100% @ Saute until wilted, about 1 min.
Olive oil 5g 3.3% @ Season, and cool completely.
Salt to taste (D Transfer to colander, and press to remove excess liquid.

@ Chop finely.
Garlic confit, mashed 6g 4% @ Saute until shallots are translucent.
see page 176
© Add spinach.
Olive oil 5g 3.3%
@ Stir together, and cook for 3 min.
Shallots, finely minced 5g 3.3%
® Remove spinach from heat.
Mascarpone 27g 18% @ Stir into spinach until completely incorporated.
see page 226 orstore-bought
@ Set spinach mixture aside.
Low-fat milk 20 g 13.3% @ Dry blend Ultra-Sperse 3 and xanthan gum.
Ultra-Sperse 3 0.5 g 0.3% @ Whisk dry mixture into cold milk until fully hydrated.
(National Starch brand)
® Mix thickened milk into creamed spinach.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.1 g 0.06%
CP Kelco brand)
Comte cheese, finely grated lOg 6.7% @ To serve, fold Comte cheese into creamed spinach, and scattersome on top.
Lemon zest, finely grated 0.5 g 0.3% ® Season with lemon zest and black pepper.
Black peppercorns, ground 0.2 g 0.1% ® Serve warm or cold.
from page 4-55

WARM POTATO AND PISTACHIO PESTO SALAD Yieids2kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Italian basil leaves 80 g 80% @ Blanch in boiling water individually until tender, about 2 min each.
Cilantro leaves 70 g 70% @ Cool in ice water, and squeeze to remove excess moisture.
Chives 70 g 70% @ Reserve refrigerated.
Scallion greens 70 g 70%
Garlic cloves, peeled 16g 16% ® Blanch in boiling water for 2 min. Drain and reserve.
Extra virgin olive oil 190g 190% ® Puree together with cooked herbs and blanched garlic until smooth.
Parmigiano Reggiano, lOOg 100% ® Measure 900 g of pistachio pesto.
finely grated
Pistachios, peeled and toasted lOOg 100%
Roasted-pistachio oil 40 g 40%
Spinach puree 30 g 30%
see page 144

Lemon juice 20 g 20%

Pistachio pesto, from above 900 g 900% @ Season.
Salt to taste

Microcrystalline cellulose 9g 9% ® Blend into pistachio pesto to fully hydrate.

(Avicel CG 200, FMG (m* @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for at least 1 h to macerate.
BioPolymer brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1.8g 1.8%
CP Kelco brand) {0.2%)*
Fingerling potatoes, skin on 1 kg 1,000% ® Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 90 °C/ 194 °F bath until tender, about 45 min.
Olive oil lOOg 100% ® Remove from bag while still warm.
@ Slice thinly.
@ Toss with pesto as desired.
from page 4-53 *{% of weight of pistachio pesto)

THICKENERS 215
 Yields 250 g
AGED RARE BEEF JUS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Aged beef chuck steak. 700 g 700% ® Vacuum seal.

cutinto2.5cm/1 in cubes @ Cook sous vide in 53 "C /127 °F bath for 4 h.
Bromelain capsules, 1.4g 1.4% @ Press against fine sieve to get juice, discarding meat.
ground to fine powder ©Centrifuge juice at 27,500^ for 30 min to yield about 100 g of aged beefjus, and reserve.
{optional, NOW Foods
brand)
Water, cold 100 g 100% ® Disperse gums in water.

Xanthan gum 0.3 g 0.3%

(0.15%)*

Guar gum 0.1 g 0.1%

(0.05%)*

Aged beef jus, lOOg 100% ® Blend gum mixture into aged beefjus until completely fluid.

from above
Monosodium glutamate 2g 2% @ Season jus.
(MSG) ® Cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use. To serve, reheat if necessary, no higher than

Salt to taste 52 °C /125 °F, and serve.

from page 5-6 *(%, of total weightof water and aged beefjus)

Yields 150 g
SHIITAKE MARMALADE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, finely minced 70 g 70% ® Saute over low heat until tender, about 20 min.

Shiitake mushrooms, 26 g 26%

brunoise
Clarified unsalted butter lOg 10%

Garlic, brunoise lOg 10%

Rendered beef marrow lOg 10%

40 g 40% @ Add to shallot mixture, and reduce to 50 g to make marmalade base.

Tomato water
see page 40 @ Reserve.
Sherry vinegar 20 g 20%

Brown beefjus lOOg 100% © Disperse gelatin into beefjus.

see page 34 ® Heat to fully dissolve gelatin.
160 Bloom gelatin 3g 3%

Xanthan gum 0.3 g 0.3% ® Blend into beefjus.

© Fold in reserved marmalade base.

Black pepper, coarsely 0.25 g 0.25% ® Season marmalade.

ground @ Serve or cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

Salt to taste

from page 5-7

Yields300g
MAPLE VINEGAR GASTRIQUE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Maple syrup (Grade B) 175 g 175% ® Whisk together.

Sherry vinegar 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal.

Cidervinegar 20 g 20% ® Refrigerate until use.

Microcrystalline cellulose 3g 3% We used Avicel CC200 microcrys-

(Avicel CG-200, FMC talline cellulose, made by FMC
Biopolymer brand) Rinpnlymer

from page 5-128

216 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 MUSHROOM KETCHUP
Yields 750 g
INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yellowonions, thinly 350 g 54% © Saute until translucent, about 7 min
sliced

Olive oil 53 g 8%
Garlic, thinly sliced 32 g 5% @ Add to onions, and cookforl min.
Ginger, thinly sliced 7g 1%
Crimini mushrooms, 650 g 100%
© Combine with onion mixture and simmer, stirring frequently, until mushrooms are very tender
thinly sliced
and liquid has evaporated, about 35 min.
Malt vinegar 155 g 24% ® Blend until smooth.
Dark ale 105 g 16% © Pass through fine sieve.
Mushroom broth, from 70 g 11% ® Adjust seasoning to taste.
above
@ Measure 800 g of ketchup.
Barley malt syrup 40 g 6%
Cane vinegar 40 g 6%
Molasses 40 g 6%
Fish sauce 34 g 5%
Freeze-dried shiitake 30 g 4.5%
mushrooms (ordried
shiitake powder)
Sea salt 15.5 g 2.5%
Honey lOg 1.5%
Horseradish, freshly 7g 1%
grated

Mace blades 4.2 g 0.6%

Allspice berries 2-2 g 0.3%
(two berries)
Freeze-dried coffee 0.6 g 0.1%
powder
see page 58

Ketchup, from above 800 g 123% ® Blend together until smooth, and refrigerate.
Xanthan gum 1.6g 0.25%
[0.2%)*
rrorn page 5-iJ *{% of total weight of ketchup)

APRICOT AND JASMINE PUREE Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Unripe apricot juice, fresh 315 g 100% © Blend together to fine puree.
Dried apricots, chopped 100 g 32%
Xanthan gum 0.5 g 0.15%
(0.11%)*
Osmanthus vinegar 25 g 8% © Whisk into apricot puree.
Jasmine essential oil 0.1 g 0.03% © Refrigerate until use.
(one drop)

from page 5-173 total weight of all other ingredients)

THICKENERS 217
 Yields 525 g
SEAWEED TAPENADE
QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_
INGREDIENT
200 g 100% ® Drain ingredients soaked in water.
Green olives,
@ Reserve all ingredients separately.
finely minced
100 g 50%
Dulse seaweed, soaked
in waterforl h, finely minced
75 g 37.5%
Shallots, finely minced
50 g 25%
Arame seaweed, soaked
in waterforl h, finely minced
50 g 25%
Hijiki seaweed, soaked
in waterforl h, finely minced
25 g 12.5%
Capers, finely minced
lOg 5% @ Whisk together until smooth.
Anchovy paste
10 g 5% @ Fold in reserved ingredients from above.
Dijon mustard
7g 3.5%
Lemon juice
5g 2.5%
Garlic, finely minced
0.2 g 0.1%
Xanthan gum
@ Season tapenade.
Salt
© Serve, or refrigerate until use.

from page 5-27

Yields 240 g
TAMARIND PUREE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

140 g 100% © Vacuum seal together.

Tamarind paste
see page 145 @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194°F bath fori h.

Sour Indian plum 140 g 100% @ Pass through fine sieve, and measure 225 g of
(alubukhara) tamarind puree.
Water 50 g 36%

3.5 g 2.5% ® Blend with tamarind paste and plum mixture.

Coconut sugar
(store-bought) ® Pass through fine sieve.

Salt 1.5g 1.1% ® Refrigerate until use.

Sherry vinegar Ig 0.7%

Xanthan gum 0.45 g 0.32%

(0.2%)*

from page 5-282

VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

218
 SOUTH CAROLINA BARBECUE SAUCE Yields 380 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Dijon mustard 300 g 100% @ Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
Lager beer 125 g 42% (D Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until

Cider vinegar 30 g reduced to 380 g, about 20 min.

10%

Tomato puree 30 g 10%

Brown sugar 15 g 5%

Worcestershire sauce lOg 3%

Black pepper, ground 1.5g 0.5%

Garlic powder 1.5g 0.5%

Cayenne pepper to taste @ Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.

Cider vinegar to taste

Salt to taste

from page 5-70

KENTUCKY BARBECUE SAUCE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Ketchup (Heinz brand) 300 g 100% @ Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
Cider vinegar 60 g 20% @ Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking,
Brown sugar 50 g 17% until reduced to 300 g, about 15 min.

Molasses 30 g 10%
Pineapple juice (fresh) 30 g 10%
Bourbon (Wild Turkey 25 g 8.5%
brand)
Bacon fat 8g 2.7%
Worcestershire sauce 5g 1.7%
Unsalted butter 8g 2.7% @ Blend into warm mixture until fully emulsified.
Bourbon (Wild Turkey 20 g 6.7% @ Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
brand)
Lemon juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5-71

NORTH CAROLINA (LEXINGTON-STYLE)

BARBECUE SAUCE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cider vinegar 115 g 100% @ Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
Distilled white vinegar 115 g 100% @ Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 70 g 61% reduced to 300 g, about 10 min.

Maple syrup 30 g 26%

Sugar 9.5 g 8.5%
Chili flakes 7g 6%
Black pepper, ground 4.5 g 4%
Salt to taste @ Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-71

THICKENERS 219
HOUSE BARBECUE SAUCE Yields120g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Malt vinegar 50 g 50% ® Combine in pot.

White beef stock 50 g 50% @ Cook mixture over low heat until reduced to about 100 g.
see page 6
@ Puree until smooth.
Maple syrup 25 g 25%
® Pass sauce base through fine sieve.
Yellow onion, finely diced 15g 15%
® Cool.
Bourbon 13.5 g 13.5%

Rendered bacon fat 12 g 12%

Sherry vinegar 5g 5%
Smoked Hungarian paprika 5g 5%
pepper (or other dried,
smoked pepper), ground
Cayenne pepper, dried and 0.5 g 0.5%
ground
Yellow mustard powder 0.5 g 0.5%
Liquid hickory smoke 0.1 g 0.1%
(Lazy Kettle brand)
Barbecue sauce, from above lOOg 100% ® Shear into cold sauce base until evenly distributed and smooth.

Tomato powder, freeze-dried 20 g 20%

see page 157 (orstore-bought)
Microcrystalline cellulose Ig 1%
(AvicelCG200, EMC
BioPolymer brand)
Salt to taste @ Season sauce.

Red wine vinegar to taste

from page 4-49

KANSAS CITY BARBECUE SAUCE Yields250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Ketchup (Heinz brand) 225 g 100% @ Mix in heavy-bottom pot.

Tomato paste 40 g 17.8% (2) Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until

Water 40 g 17.8% reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.

White wine vinegar 40 g 17.8%

Brown sugar 35 g 15%

Black pepper, ground 5g 2.2%

Chili powder 5g 2.2%

(McCormick brand)
Mustard powder 4.5 g 2%

Salt 4.5 g 2%

Cayenne pepper 4g 1.8%

Green Thai chili, minced 4g 1.8%

Garlic powder Ig 0.4%

Onion powder 0.75 g 0.3%

Ginger, peeled and finely 0.25 g 0.1%
minced
Cumin powder 0.1 g 0.05%
Lemon juice 5.5 g 2.4% @ Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
Salt to taste
from page 5-68

220 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 MEMPHIS BARBECUE SAUCE Yields 250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Canned tomatoes 300 g 100% 0 Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
Cider vinegar 80 g 27% @ Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until
Lemon juice 40 g 13% reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Unsalted butter 40 g 13%
Brown sugar 35 g 11.5%
Worcestershire sauce 30 g 10%
Chili powder 2,5g 0.85%
(McCormick brand)
Black pepper, ground 1.5g 0.5%
Onion powder 1.5g 0.5%
Tabasco sauce Ig 0.3%
Mustard powder 0.75 g 0.25%
Cayenne pepper 0.5 g 0.15%
Salt to taste @ Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
Lemon juice to taste
from page 5-70

NORTH CAROLINA (EASTERN REGION)

BARBECUE SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cider vinegar 200 g 100% 0 Mix together in heavy-bottom pot.
Distilled white vinegar 200 g 100% 0 Simmer, stirringfrequentlyto prevent sticking,
Maple syrup 30 g 15% until reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Chili flakes lOg 5%
Sugar 5g 2,5%
Black pepper, ground 3g 1.5%
Salt to taste @ Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-70

EAST TEXAS BARBECUE SAUCE Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yellow onions, finely 135 g 169% 0 Sweat onions until translucent and tender in heavy-
minced bottom pot, about 7 min.
Unsalted butter 40 g 50%
Garlic, finely minced 7g 9%
Distilled vinegar 80 g 100% 0 Combine.
Water 80 g 100% 0 Add to onion mixture.
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 50 g 62.5% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until
Ancho chili paste 40 g 50% reduced to 200 g, about 20 min.
Worcestershire sauce 4g 5%
Chili powder 2g 2.5%
(McCormick brand)
Mustard powder 2g 2.5%
Bay leaf, crushed 0.15 g 0.19%
Cayenne pepper 0.5 g 0.6%
Lemon juice 13.5 g 17% © Season sauce, and refrigerate until use.
Sugar 2g 2.5%
Salt to taste
from page 5-69

THICKENERS 221
 MUGHAL CURRY SAUCE Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Instead of soaking the nuts and Raw almonds 160g 80% ® Cover with water, and soak in refrigerator for 12 h.
seeds for 12 h, you can alternatively Raw cashews 160g 80% @ Drain, grind togetherto fine paste, and reserve.
soften them in a pressure cooker at
Poppy seeds 8g 4% (D Cover with water, and soak in refrigerator for 12 h.
a gauge pressure of! bar/15 psi for
45 min. @ Drain, grind to fine paste, and reserve.
Shallots, thinly sliced 200 g 100% ® Saute shallots until translucent and lightly golden.
Ghee 30 g 15%
Garlic, grated 6g 3% ® Combine aromatics, and add to shallots.
Ginger, grated 6g 3% @ Saute until golden, about 5 min, and reserve.
Green Thai chili, 5g 2.5%
finely minced
Turmeric (fresh), grated 4g 2%
Nutmeg, grated 2g 1%
Bay leaf 0.25 g 0.13%
Mace blade 1.6g 0.8% ® Toast spices together in 170 °C / 340 °F oven until
Corianderseed 0.5% aromatic and golden, 10-15 min.
Ig
Black pepper 0.5 g 0.25% @ Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.

Cinnamon stick 0.5 g 0.25% ® Add to sauteed mixture.

Clove 0.5 g 0.25%

Cumin seeds 0.5 g 0.25%
Green cardamom seeds 0.1 g 0.05%
Raisins 25 g 12.5% @ Add raisins to sauteed mixture, and then add nut and
Water 200 g 100% poppyseed pastes.
@ Simmer for 25 min, and remove from heat.
Plain yogurt 8g 4% ® Add to sauce.
Lime juice to taste (w) Season.
Salt to taste ® Cool and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-92

PEA VINE SALAD Yields200g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pea vines, tips only 120 g 100% ® Measure and reserve individually.
Pickled lemons, drained 36 g 30%
see page 179

Cinnamon basil leaves 15 small

Lemon-infused olive oil 30 g 25% @ Whisk togetherto form vinaigrette.
Vermouth vinegar lOg 8.3% @ Toss vinaigrette with reserved salad components.
Lime juice 5g 4.2%
Microcrystalline 0.3 g 0.25%
cellulose (optional; Avicel (0.67%)*
CG200, EMC Biopolymer
brand)
Black pepper to taste ® Season salad.

Salt to taste

from page 5-275 *(% of total weight of first three ingredients for vinaigrette)

222 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 MUSLIM CURRY SAUCE Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly sliced nog 55% ® Saute onions until translucent and lightly golden.
Ghee 40 g 20% aboutlO min.
see page 4-213

Garlic, grated 7g 3.5% ® Add to onions, and saute until fragrant, about 5 min.
Ginger, grated 7g 3.5%
Black peppercorns, 2g 1% @ Toast in shallow pan in 170 °C / 340 °F oven until
toasted and ground aromatic and golden, 10-15 min.
Cinnamon stick, 2g 1% ® Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder. These curry sauces have a tradi¬
toasted and ground
tional texture. They stick to meat
Cumin seeds, 2g 1% better if you add 0.2% xanthan
toasted and ground gum, relative to the total weight
Green cardamom seeds, 2g 1% ofthe sauce. Use a blenderor
toasted and ground rotor-stator homogenizerto blend
Mace blade, 0.8 g 0.4% in the gum afterthe final step in the
toasted and ground recipe.

Cane sugar 4g 2% ® Mix with ground spices and sauteed onion mixture.
Nutmeg, grated 0.8 g 0.4%
Heavy cream 200 g 100% ® Add to spiced onion mixture.
Of
o

Water
CTQ

30% @ Simmerfor30 min, and remove from heat.

Unsalted butter 16g 8% ® Whisk into sauce.
Lime juice 4g 2%
Saffron threads 0.8g 0.4%
Rose water to taste @ Season.
Salt to taste ® Cool and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-93

GREEN MANGO AND CASHEW SALAD Yields 256 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green mango, fine lOOg 100% ® Measure and reserve individually.
julienne
Cashews, roasted 30 g 30%
Mint leaves, torn 8g 8%
Cilantro stems and 4g 4%
leaves, thinly sliced
Coconut water 60 g 60% @ Blend together until smooth to make dressing, and reserve
(fresh or canned)
@ Toss green mango with reserved salad elements, and dress to taste.
Fish sauce 40 g 40%
Distilled vinegar 19g 19%
Lime juice 13 g 13%
Sugar 8g 8%
Salt Ig 1%
Xanthan gum 0.28 g 0.28%
(0.2%)*
from page 5 169 *{% total weight of six preceding ingredients)

THICKENERS 223
 GOAN CURRY SAUCE Yields200g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, 120 g 100% ® Saute onions until translucent and golden, about
thinly sliced 10 min.
Ghee 35 g 29%
Tomato puree 60 g 50% ® Add to onions.
see page 144
@ Saute mixture for5 min.
Garlic, finely grated 7g 5.8%
Ginger, finely grated 7g 5.8%

The traditional way to toast spices Black peppercorns 5g 4% @ Add to onion and tomato mixture, and saute until
in Indian cuisine is in a dry skillet. Green cardamom seeds 4.2 g 3.5% fragrant, about 10 min.
We prefer an oven for more ® Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 °C / 340 °F oven
Turmeric, grated 4g 3.3%
control, but even with this method, until golden and aromatic, 10-15 min.
Fennel seeds 3.4 g 2.8%
you need to watch that you don't
® Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
burn yourspices. Coriander seeds 2.4 g 2%
Cumin 2.4 g 2%
Yellow mustard seeds 2g 1.7%
Water 250 g 208% @ Combine with sauce.
Cane vinegar 40 g 33% ® Simmerfor45 min.
Raw cane sugar 12 g 10%
Bay leaf 0,5g 0.4%
Lime juice to taste ® Season sauce.
Salt to taste @ Cool and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-95

KERALA CURRY SAUCE Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Curries are by no means exclusive Shallots, finely minced 120 g 85% ® Saute until shallots are translucent and golden, about
to India. Southeast Asia has its Ghee 35 g 25% 10 min.
yellow, green, and red curries; Green Thai chili, minced 8.5%
12g
there are adaptations from Iran to
Garlic, finely grated lOg 7% @ Add to shallot mixture, saute for 5 min, and reserve.
Britain to Japan. But they all share
Ginger, finely grated lOg 7%
the basics: meat, seafood, or just
loads of flavorful vegetables in a Curry leaves 5g 3.5%
fragrant, spicy sauce, usually Bay leaf 0.5g 0.4%
served with rice.
Black peppercorns 14 g 10% @ Mix together thoroughly.
Cumin seeds 4g 2.8% @ Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 "C / 340 "F oven
Green cardamom seeds 3g 2% until golden and aromatic, 10-15 min.

Star anise 1.4g 1% ® Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.

Cinnamon stick Ig 0.7% ® Add to shallot mixture, and saute until fragrant, about
3 min.
Cloves Ig 0.7%
Coconut milk 140 g 100% @ Add to shallot mixture, and simmer for 45 min.
Salt to taste ® Season sauce.
® Cool and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-96

224 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

MASALA CURRY SAUCE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly 200 g 80% @ Saute onions until amberand translucent, about25 min.
sliced
Ghee 30 g 12%
Tomato puree 250 g 100% @ Add to onions, and saute fori min.
see page 144
@ Reserve warm.
Curry leaves 2.5 g 1%
Coconut (fresh), grated 60 g 24% @ Grind togetherto fine paste.
Garlic, finely grated lOg 4% ® Add to onion and tomato mixture, and saute for3 min.
Ginger, finely grated lOg 4% ® Reserve warm.
Dried bird's eye chili, 3.5 g 1.4%
crushed
Fenugreek seeds 2.4 g 1% @ Toast in shallow pan placed in 170 “C /340 °F oven until aromatic and golden, 10-15 min.
Corianderseeds 2g 0.8% ©Grind to fine powder in blender or coffee grinder.
Fennel seeds 2g 0.8% @ Stir into warm onion and tomato mixture.
@ Saute until aromatic.
Water 160 g 64% @ Add to mixture.
Tamarind paste 60 g 24% ® Simmerfor4S min.
see page 145

Turmeric (fresh), grated 9g 3.6%

Lime juice to taste ® Season sauce.

Salt to taste ® Cool and refrigerate until use.

from page 5-98

RED-EYE GRAVY Yields 75 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 80 g 16% ® Saute onions until tender and golden, about 15 min.
Rendered pork fat 30 g 6%
Star anise 0.2 g 0.04% @ Add to onions.
@ Continue cooking over lower heat until onions are dark amberand star anise is fragrant.
Brown pork stock 500 g 100% ® Deglaze.
see page 6
® Reduce to 75 g, and remove gravy from heat.
Maple syrup (Grade B) 15g 3%
Coffee beans 25 g 5% ® Add to gravy, and cover.
@ Infuse for5 min.
® Strain, discarding coffee beans.

Microcrystalline cellulose 0.2 g 0.04% @ Blend into gravy to thicken.

(Avicel CC-200, FMC (0.27%)*
Biopolymer brand)
Smoked salt to taste @ Season and serve, or refrigerate until use.
from page 5-102 *(% of total weight after reduction)

THICKENERS 225
MILKS AND CREAMS

® Select a recipe. Some of our favorites appear in the table below. @ Hydrate the thickeners. Soak or heat as indicated in the Procedure
Proportions are relative to the main liquid. For example, use 80 g of column ofthe table.
tigernuts for every 100 g of water to make chufa milk. @ Sieve if needed to remove lumps. Nut and legume milks should be sieved
@ Blend liquids with thickeners. Dissolve acidifiers or rennet in a small after steeping.
amount of water, milk, or cream before addingthem to the liquid.

Best Bets for Making Milks and Creams

Recipe Liquid (scaling) Thickeners (scaling) Procedure
almond milk water 100% almonds, finely ground 60% soak 24 h, and sieve
sweet almond oil 2% sugar 1%
clotted whole milk* 100% combine liquids, and pour in open container; steam
cream heavy cream 50% n/a or cook in 80 °C/176 °F bath fori h undisturbed;
refrigerate 24 h; skim clotted cream from surface
chufa milk water 100% chufas (tigernuts) 80% soak 12 h, and sieve
buttermilk butter whey 100% lactic acid 0.4% season with salt to taste, and allow to rest overnight;
see page 4-286 adjust amount of heavy cream to taste
heavy cream 20% lambda carrageenan 0.2%
skyr low-fat milk 100% live culture 1.0% heat milk to 82 °C /180 °F, and cool to 42 °C /108 °F;
(Yogotherm brand) add culture and acid, pour into sanitized containers.
lactic acid 0.2% and incubate at 45 °C/113 °F for 5 h; drain for 2 h
yogurt whole milk 100% live culture (Yogotherm 1% heat milk to 82 °C /180 °F, and cool to 42 °C /108 °F;
brand) add culture, pour into sanitized containers, and incu¬
bate at 45 °C/113 °F for 8 h; drain 12 h for thick, Greek-
style texture; for firmer yogurt, scald milk at 85 °C /
125 °F for 25 min, and cool before adding culture
mascarpone heavy cream 100% ascorbic acid 0.2% combine, heat cream to 90 °C /190 °F, cool for
(orglucono delta-lactone) 30 min, wrap in cheesecloth, and hang, refrigerated,
for 12 h
from page 4-56 *(whole milk used in clotted cream should be unhomogenized for best results)

LOW-FAT "CREAM " Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet whey powder 5g 2.5% ® Dry blend.
Cellulose gum 0.7 g 0.35%
(Cekol LV, CP Kelco brand)
Lambda carrageenan 0.2 g 0.1%
(Texturas brand)
Skim milk 200 g 100% @ Shear powder mixture into milk until fully hydrated.
@ Refrigerate.
from page 4-57

226 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 INSTANT CREME ERAICHE Yields 400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Heavy cream (free of 400 g 100% @ Heat heavy cream to 40 °C/104 °F.
stabilizers or thickeners)
(D Blend in carrageenan to fully hydrate, and remove from heat.
Lambda carrageenan 1.6g 0.4%
Lactic acid 1.6 g 0.4% @ Dissolve lactic acid in water.
Water 8g 2% @ Stir lactic acid solution into warm cream, and refrigerate forlO min before using.
© Pass through fine sieve, and refrigerate until needed.
from page 4-57

HERBED CHEESE SPREAD Yields 125 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Heavy cream 75 g 100% @ Dry blend locust bean gum and carrageenan.
(free of stabilizers orthickeners)
@ Disperse into cold milk and cream.
Whole milk 25 g 33%
@ Bring mixture to boil while blending to hydrate. Locust bean gum and lambda
Locust bean gum (POR/A2 Ig 1.3% @ Remove from heat. carrageenan are often combined
Powder, TIC Gums brand) {}%)*
© Strain and cool commercial cream cheese
Lambda carrageenan 0.2 g 0.27% in the United States.
(Texturas brand) {0.2%)*
Fresh goat cheese 30 g 40% ® Add to heavy cream mixture.
@ Blend together until homogenized to make spread base.
Garlic confit, pureed lOg 13.3% © Fold into cheese spread.
see page 176
chives, minced 3g 4%
Parsley, minced 2g 2.7%
Tarragon, thinly sliced Ig 1.3%
Lemon juice to taste ® Season, and refrigerate until use.
Black pepper, cracked to taste
Salt to taste
from page 4-57 *{% of total weight of first two ingredients)

SOY MILK Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Dried organic soybeans 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal together.
Water 250 g 100% © Soak, refrigerated, until beans absorb all water, about 14 h.
@ Remove from bag.
Water, cold 750 g 300% @ Puree soaked soybeans in food processor.
© Add cold water.
® Blend forlO min until texture is creamy and grainy.
Water, boiling 425 g 170% @ Pour into saucepan, and bring mixture to simmer.
© Add boiling water to soybeans; surface should start to foam.
© Stir until foam subsides, about 20 min.

@ Strain mixture through fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and collect soy milk.
® Wrap mixture in cheesecloth.
@ Wring cloth tightlyto extract all remaining soy milk.
@ Vacuum seal soy milk, and refrigerate.
from page 4-58

THICKENERS 227
TOASTED RICE MILK Yields!.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Arborio rice 50 g 33% @ Arrange dry rice in thin, even layer on baking sheet.
@ Toast in 175 °C/ 350 “F oven until evenly golden, about 45 min.
@ Remove from oven.
Water 1.5 kg 1,000% @ Combine all rice and 1 kg of water in pot.
Long grain rice 150 g 100% ® Soak rice for 3 h at room temperature.
Fresh pandan leaves 30 g 20% ® Add to rice and water, if using.
(optional) @ Simmer mixture for30 min.
® Remove from heat.

® Add reserved 500 g of water, and puree coarsely to release starch.

@ Strain through cheesecloth-lined fine sieve to extract 1.5 kg, about 1 h. To avoid
unwanted solids, do not press.
Sugar 60 g 40% ® Whisk into rice milk until dissolved, and cool.
from page 4-59

TOASTED ALMOND MILK Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 750 g 250% @ Blend into coarse puree.
Marcona almonds, toasted 300 g 100% @ Refrigerate for 24 h.
(or regular almonds, skinless) @ Blend chilled puree until smooth.
Sugar 15g 5% @ Strain through fine sieve to extract almond milk.
Sweet almond oil 15g 5%
Salt 9g 3%
Almond extract (optional) to taste ® Add sparingly to milk.

® Vacuum seal almond milk, and refrigerate until needed.

from page 4-59

HORCHATA (CHUEA MILK) Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chufas (tigernuts) 450 g 100% ® Cover nuts with fresh water.
Water as needed @ Soak in refrigerator for 12 h.

@ Drain nuts, and discard water.

Water 250 g 56% @ Combine with softened nuts.
Sugar 20 g 4.4% ® Blend to fine, smooth texture.
Whey protein isolate 1.4g 0.3% ® Strain milk, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard solids.
(optional) @ Vacuum seal milk, and refrigerate until needed.
from page 4-59

LEMON STRIPS adapted from HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 50 g (50 strips)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Glycerin 3.75 g 1.67% ® Blend together to make lemon water, and reserve.
Lemon essential oil 2.55 g 1.13%
Deionized water 225 g 100%
Maltodextrin DE8 7.95 g 3.53% @ Dry blend.
Algin 400F (TIC Gums brand) 8.58 g 3.81% @ Whisk slowly into lemon water until completely incorporated.
Viscarin TP 389 (EMC 3.18g 1.41% @ Vacuum seal or refrigerate for 8 h to remove trapped air bubbles.
BioPolymer brand)
® Spread mixture onto acetate sheet using film applicator or improvised dowel with
Aspartame 0.12 g 0.05% a spacer to form very thin and even coating.
® Dry at room temperature for about 24 h.

@ Slice hardened film into 2 cm by 3 cm /14 in by 1 'A in strips.

® Peel off strips from sheet.
® Store in airtight container.
from page 4-61

228 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 EDIBLE FILMS

® Select a texture and a corresponding film formula. The Best Bets for ® Cast into a film onto a flat, level surface. Keep the liquid cold, so that it
Edible Films table below lists several good options that range from tender is more viscous and coats the surface more easily. Films are typically cast
to brittle. in a layer 0.5-1 mm / '/e^-'/sz in thick; crisps and tuiles are usually thicker,
@ Mix thickeners into cold liquid to create a slurry. Quantities in the table 1.5-2 mm in. For more on making films, seethe example recipes
are given relative to the weight of the liquid. For example, if you are on the next two pages.
making a clear, brittle tomato water film, use 10 g of Pure-Cote B790 for © Dehydrate at the lowest humidity and temperature feasible. Dehydrating
every 100 g of tomato water. at 30 °C / 86 °F is ideal. Slow, low-temperature drying produces films that
@ Hydrate fully. Times and temperatures are indicated in the table below. have an even texture; films often crack when dried too quickly and warp
For instructions, see page 4-26. when exposed to humidity. The greater the degree of dehydration, the
less flexible and more brittle the film becomes. For more information on
dehydrating techniques, see page 2-428.

Best Bets for Edible Films

Hydrate
Texture Clarity Formula (scalin g)*(°C) (°F) (min) Example use
tender clear MethocelSCAlSO** 0.75% refrigerated 8h edible wrappers, paper coating films
160 Bloom gelatin 0.75% 60 140 5
sugar 15% 95 203 3
HM pectin 2%
Opaque agar 1.0% 95 203 3
glycerin 1.2%
xanthan gum 0.2%
crisp clear low-acyl gellan 0.5% 95 203 3 flavored crisps, delicate tuiles
propylene glycol alginate 0.5% 60 140 5
160 Bloom gelatin 0.3%
maltodextrin DE 8 15% cold
sugar or isomalt 10%
Opaque Methocel E4M** 1.25% refrigerated 8h crispy cream cheese (see below)
brittle clear Pure-Cote B790 10% 100 212 15 Grant Achatz's pineapple glass wrapperfor
bacon powder (see page 187)
opaque N-Zorbit M 20% cold seasoned glasses, fruit and vegetable glasses
glucose powder 15.0% 95 203 3
LM pectin 1.5%
agar 0.6%
from page 4-60 *(set weight of liquid to 100%)-, **{for dispersal instructions, see page 4-24)

CRISPY CREAM CHEESE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water lOOg 50% ® Bring waterto boil.
Methylcellulose E4M 6g 3% ® Shear in methylcellulose, and simmer until completely dispersed, at least 3 min.
(Dow brand) (2%r
Cream cheese, 200 g 100% @ Pour mixture onto cream cheese.
at room temperature @ Add salt, and blend.
Salt 1.5g 0.75% © Cool cream cheese mixture to 10 °C / 50 °F.
® Spread onto silicone mat in Iayer2 mm in thick.
© Dehydrate at 50 °C/120 °F until crisp and brittle, 10-12 h.
© Allow to cool completely before using.
from page 4-63 *(% of total weight of water and cream cheese)

THICKENERS 229
SPICED HONEY GLASS Yields 365 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Honey, spray-dried 180g 100% @ Combine and heat to 160 °C / 320 °F, stirring constantly.
(store-bought) @ Pour onto 27.5 cm by 40 cm/II in by 16 in silicone mat, and cool until hardened.
Trehalose or sugar IBOg 100% @ Break glass into shards, and grind to fine powder.
Water 45 g 25% @ Pass powder through fine sieve onto baking sheet lined with silicone mat, forming layer
1.5 mm //le in thick, and reserve.

Coriander seeds, toasted 4g 2% ® Crush spices together to make coarse powder.

Sichuan peppercorns 2.5g 1.5% ® Use fine sieve to remove fine particles.

Fennel seeds 1% @ Sprinkle coarse particles evenly overtray of sugar powder.

2g
Black pepper, coarsely 1.5g 0.8% ® Bake in 150 °C / 300 “F oven until completely melted, about 6 min.

ground ® Cut into 2.5 cm by 7.5 cm / I in by 3 in pieces while still hot and pliable.

@ Store in cool, dry place.

from page 5123

Yields 240 g
DRIED CHERRY AND HAZELNUT NOUGATINE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sugar 50 g 100% ® Heat together to 150 °C/300 °Fto make syrup.

Trehalose (or isomalt) 50 g 100%

Glucose syrup DE 40 25 g 50%

Water 20 g 40%

Hazelnut butter 50 g 100% @ Whisk into syrup, and heat mixture to 170 °C/ 340 °F.

Unsalted butter lOg 20%

Dried sour cherries. 20 g 40% @ Fold remaining ingredients into mixture.

minced @ Pour onto silicone mat. Cover with second silicone mat, and roll mixture out into layer 1 mm /
Hazelnuts, peeled and 15 g 30% Ym in thick.
minced ® Cool until brittle, break into irregular shards, and serve, or store in cool, dry place.
Salt 2-2 g 4.4%

Baking powder 1.5g 3%

from page 5-270

EDIBLE WRAPPERS adapted fr OM HESTON BLUMENTHAE Yields 130g(65wrappers)

INGREDIENT_QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE__

Water 400 g 100% @ Combine to bloom gelatin.
200 Bloom gelatin 6g 1.5% (D Heat solution; whisk constantly to dissolve gelatin.
Glycerin 0.2 g 0.05% d) Transfer 6 g of solution to 9 cm / 3'/2 in diameter petri dish with pipette.

@ Swirl solution to coat dish bottom evenly and eliminate air bubbles.
(D Repeat with remainingsolution in individual petri dishes, one for each wrapper.

® Rest in warm place until resulting films are completely dry, 20-24 h.

@ Peel off wrappers, and store in airtight container.

from page 4-62

230 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

ONION ARLETTE Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sweet onion juice 300 g 100% @ Combine, and cookatl55 °C/310 °F, until light golden caramel forms.
(from about
@ Pour hot onion syrup onto silicone mat.
500 gonions)
@ Cool and harden at room temperature, about 20 min.
Trehalose (or isomalt or 130 g 43.3%
sugar) @ Grind to fine powder, and reserve resulting onion sugar.

Glucose syrup DE 40 70 g 23.3%

Puff pastry dough 500 g 167% © Roil out dough in rectangle 0.5 cm / ’A in thick.
(store-bought or
® Cut dough into five progressively smaller rectangles.
fresh-made)
@ Stack in layers, brushing with butter and dusting with thin coat of onion sugar between each
Clarified unsalted butter, 150 g 50%
layer.
melted
® Fold and roll dough into cylinder, and then pinch top to give dough a bulb shape.
® Freeze until very hard, about 45 min.
@ Cut dough with meat slicer into slices 1 mm/% in thick.

® Place slices between two silicone mats, and pass rolling pin overtop until slices are nearly
translucent; they should retain their shape.
@ Dust flattened slices with more onion sugar to fully coat surfaces.
® Transferto silicone mat-lined bakingsheet.
@ Bake in 170 °C / 340 °F oven for 7 min.

® Dust with additional onion sugar, and bake at same temperature for 2-3 min.
@ Cool, and reserve in cool, dry place.
from page 5-262

BBQ CARAMELS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
KC Masterpiece honey 500 g 286% ® Reduce sauce over low heat to 250 g.
You can substitute our House
barbecue sauce
@ Reserve. Barbecue sauce (see page 220) or
Sugar 175 g 100% @ Blend. one of the regional sauces (see
Salt lOg 5.7% page 5-66).

HM pectin (Brown Ribbon HV, 4.7 g 2.7%

Obipektin brand) [0.53%)*
Glucose syrup DE40 175 g 100% @ Combine with sugar mixture in pot.
Water 175 g 100% ® Heat to145°C/293°F. Forthe texture ofthe caramel to be
Unsalted butter, cubed 110 g 63% ® Stir into reduced barbecue sauce to form correct, the sugar content should be
caramel base. 88 °Brix as measured on a refracto-
meter. Extend the cooking time as
0 Heat to 135 °C / 275 °F, and remove from heat.
needed to reach the correct Brix
Liquid hickory smoke 5g 3% ® Stir into caramel base quickly while base is still level.
(Lazy Kettle brand) hot.

® Pour into mold 1.5 cm /% in thick.

® Refrigerate until solidified.
® Cut caramel sheet with scissors into desired
shapes.
Edible wrappers, from above as needed @ Wrap caramels individually.
® Store in cool, dry place.
from page 4-62 *{%of total weight of reduced honey barbecue sauce, sugar, glucose,
water, and unsalted butter)

THICKENERS 231
COOKED WHOLE EGGS

Best Bets for Cooking Whole Eggs

Cook
Recipe (°c) (°F) (min) Equipment See page
pasteurized egg 55 131 2 h water bath 1190

onsen egg {Japanese slow-cooked egg) 62-68 144-154 35 water bath 4-76

perfect soft-boiled egg 100 212 3 water baths and 4-79

64 147 35 blowtorch

perfect hard-boiled egg 79 174 35 water bath 4-76

fast hot-spring egg 75 167 13 water bath

adapted from Aki Kamozawa and H. AlexanderTalbot

fast hot-spring quail egg 70 158 7 water bath

adapted from Ferran Adria

Arzak egg blossom 85 185 12 water bath this page

from page 4-78

LIQUID CENTER DUCK EGG Yields 340 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Duck eggs (shelled) 320 g 100% @ Immerse eggs in boiling waterfor4 min.
(four eggs) @ Cool in ice-water bath for 20 min.
@ Cook in 62 °C /143 °F bath for about 30 min.
@ Cool again in ice-water bath.
@ Crack eggshells gently all over with back of spoon.
but do not remove shells.
The egg white needs more heat ® Reserve.
to coagulate than the yolk does,
Red beet juice 800 g 250% @ Combine, reduce to 750 g, and cool.
so first use boiling waterto set the
white firmly enough that it can Red port wine 350 g 109% ® Immerse eggs in reduction, and soak in refrigerator
be peeled later. Then use a low forl2h.
temperature water bath to cook the @ Drain, and then gently peel off eggshells.
center. If substituting chicken eggs, @ Reheat eggs in 62 °C / 143 "F bath for about 25 min.
which usually are smaller than duck
Flaky sea salt to taste ® Season.
eggs, you may need to reduce the
Constructed red wine 65 g 20% @ Garnish with glaze.
initial boiling time to 3-3y2 min.
glaze, warmed
see page 24

from page 5-220

EGG BLOSSOM INSPIRED BY JUAN MARI ARZAK Yields four eggs

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Add 2 min to the cooking time
if using duck eggs. Whole eggs four large @ Line small bowl with plastic wrap.

Duck fat 50 g 100% @ Combine fats, and brush center of plastic wrap.

Extra-virgin olive oil 25 g 50% @ Break one egg in center of bowl.

This recipe uses a single step of
Truffle oil lOg 20% @ Season with salt and additional fat.
12 min in an 85 °C /185 °F bath, but
you could also cook the eggs in a Salt to taste ® Gather edges of plastic wrap together carefully.
two-stage manner (as when making ® Twist wrapped mixture into ball, and tie off top of
soft-boiled eggs as described on wrap.
the previous page): boil them @ Repeat procedure with remaining eggs.
forl-3 min, and then cook in a
® Cook eggs in 85 °C/185 °F water bath for 12 min.
40-64 “C /104-147 °F water bath.
@ Cut away plastic wrap to serve.
from page 4-80

232 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

DEVILED EGGS Yields four portions

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole eggs, in shell 200 g 100% @ Cook in 72 °C/162 °F bath for 35 min.
(four large) (D Plunge in ice water.
At 72 °C/162 °F, the yolk sets hard
@ Peel, and separate yolks from whites.
enough that it remains spherical
@ Set yolks aside.
rather than flattening from its own
© Retain whites for mayonnaise. weight—as it does at lower temper-
Reserved egg whites, from 145 g 72.5% @ Blend. atures (see page 4-76). These yolk
above balls have a wonderful consistency.
Champagne vinegar 12.5% They can be used as a kind of
25 g
dumpling in soups orotherdishes.
Dijon mustard lOg 5%
Extra-virgin olive oil 100 g 50% @ Drizzle slowly into egg white mixture while
Walnut oil 20 g 10% blending.
® Emulsify fully to make mayonnaise.
Tarragon, thinly sliced 4g 2% ® Fold in.
Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste @ Season mayonnaise.
Cayenne pepper to taste @ Smear on each plate, and garnish each plate with
Salt to taste one yolk.

Bottargadi Muggine 20 g 10% @ Crate finely over each plate.

(store-bought)
from page 4-81

CUSTARDS
The perfect custard temperature depends on three things: whether you use Note that "milk," "quiche," and other terms in the table below refer to the
yolks or whole eggs; the proportion of egg to other liquid; and the final core resulting texture, not to ingredients or a specific recipe.
temperature. Using the table below, you can achieve any result you want.

Custard Textures

from page 4-84 *{set weight ofiiquid to 100%)

GELS 233
 PRESERVED AND PICKLED EGGS
@ Select a recipe. See the table Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs @ Submerge very fresh whole eggs in brine or cure, and refrigerate
below forsuggestions. forthe time indicated. Note that all of the recipes here, except the
(D Make the brine or curing agent. Prepare enough to completely cover all vinegar-coagulated egg, require that the eggs remain in the shell
eggs. Weights in the table are scaled to be proportional to the weight of when immersed in brine.
the principal liquid. For example, to make a dozen century eggs, weigh @ Cook (optional). For a more familiar texture, lightly cook the cured eggs,
out enough waterto coverthe eggs completely, and then add 9 g of salt using the time and temperature indicated in the table.
and 4.2 g of sodium hydroxide for every 100 g ofwater.

Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs

Cook (optional)
Recipe Coagulant (scaling) Brine/cure (days) (°C) (°F) (min) See page
century egg water 100% brine 20 68 154 35 below
salt 9% soak 2
dry 5
sodium hydroxide (lye) 4.2%
salt-coagulated egg water 100% brine 28 68 154 35
salt 32%
vinegar-coagulated egg vinegar 100% brine /
1 2-1 62 144 20 below
miso-cured egg yolks red miso 100% cure 5 n/a 236
sake 18.5%
sugar 16%
from page 4-82

CENTURY EGG Yields 400 j

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 100% ® Whisk together until fully dissolved to make brine.
Salt 90 g 9%
Sodium hydroxide (lye) 42 g 4.2%
Whole duck eggs, 450 g 45% @ Vacuum seal eggs with brine.
washed and checked for (about six)
© Refrigerate in bag for 20 d.
cracks
® Remove from bag, and soak in fresh water for 2 d.
® Air-dry at room temperature for 5 d.

©Optionally, cook in 68 °C/154 °F bath for 35 min. Cool and peel.

@ If desired, garnish with pickled mushrooms and seaweed vinegar.
from page 4-83

PICKLED QUAIL EGGS INSPIRED BY HERVE THIS YieldslSOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Quail eggs 200 g 100% © Crack open; reserve whole quail eggs individually.
(about 10)
Champagne vinegar 500 g 250% @ Combine to make brine, and bring to simmer.
Water 250 g 125%
Sugar 135 g 67.5%
Salt 8g 4%
Black peppercorns Ig 0.5% © Combine.
White peppercorns Ig 0.5% @ Pour hot brine over spice mixture, and cool.
Pink peppercorns 0.5 g 0.25% © Strain cold brine into large sous vide bag.
Yellow mustard seeds Ig 0.5% © Slide eggs gently, one by one, into brine-filled bag, while taking care to avoid collisions
Celery seeds Ig 0.5% that could burst theiryolks.
Dill seeds Ig 0.5% © Vacuum seal, and refrigerate forl2 h.
Aleppo pepperflakes 0.1 g 0.05% © Drain eggs, and cook in 62 °C/144 °F bath for 15 min.
from page 4-83

234 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAt

SEPARATED EGG GELS

@ Select a texture. The table below lists our recommendations. @ Blend eggs with liquid, and whisk in seasoning. Eggs for the two-stage
fried egg should just be separated. Forthe two-stage baked eggs, blend
@ Measure the yolk, white, liquid, and salt. Scale the ingredients relative to
the whites with the cream and keep the yolks whole.
the weight of the eggs (for example, use 2 g of salt for every 100 g of egg
yolk in a sliceable yolk). @ Cook. Appropriate methods, times, and temperatures are indicated,
along with references to example recipes.

Best Bets for Separated Egg Gels

Egg yolk Egg white Salt Cook See
Texture (scaling) (scaling) Liquid (scaling) (scaling) Method (“0 CF) (min) page

100% n/a milk or 400% 5.5% sous vide 80 176 12 below

creme anglaise
cream

100% n/a n/a 1.1% open container in 77 171 2 236

egg yolk droplets
sous vide bath

100% n/a n/a 2% sous vide 70 158 1 h 238

sliceable yolk
100% n/a cream 200% 5% steam oven 79 174 35 237
creme brulee
milk 175%

n/a 100% cream 110% 3.5% steam oven 83 181 15

egg white custard
milk 110%

n/a 100% n/a 1.1% stove top 74 165 3 236

egg white droplets
white 100% cream 35% 1.4% steam oven 74 165 30
two-stage baked eggs
yolk 1 per serving n/a to taste 64 147 20

white 1 per serving n/a to taste buttered ring 79 174 15 2

Nathan's two-stage
mold, steam oven 63 145 25
fried egg yolk 1 perserving

from page 4-85

CAULIFLOWER CREME ANGLAISE vieidssoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cauliflower, thinly sliced 400 g 160% @ Roast in 160 °C / 320 °F oven until deep amber, about 25-30 min. Alternatively, deep-fry
in 190 °C/375 °F oil for 5-6 min.
(D Cool completely.

Whole milk 500 g 200% @ Vacuum seal with roasted cauliflower.

@ Cook in 85 °C/185 °F bath fori h to infuse milk.
@ Remove from bag, and strain.
© Measure 250 g of cauliflower milk.

@ Cool milk to room temperature.

Cauliflower milk, from above 250 g 100% © Blend together until smooth, and vacuum seal.

Egg yolks 63 g 25% @ Cook sous vide in 80 °C/ 176 °F bath for 35 min.

@ Remove from bag, and cool.

@ Add additional cauliflower milk or heavy cream to achieve desired viscosity.

@ Vacuum seal and refrigerate.

Nutmeg, freshly grated to taste ® To serve, reheat creme anglaise in70°C/158°F bath for 10 min.

Salt to taste @ Pour into serving container.

® Season.

from page 4-89

GELS 235
EGGS BENEDICT INSPIRED BY PEDRO SUBIJANA AND GRANT ACHATZ Yields 610 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROGEDURE

Egg yolks 150 g 100% ® Whisk yolks together with salt, and strain through fine sieve.
Salt 3g 2% @ Transfer to squeeze bottle.
Egg whites 150 g 100% @ Whisk whites together with salt, and strain through fine sieve.
Salt 3g 2% ® Transfer to second squeeze bottle.
Clarified butter 750 g 500% ® Divide butter evenly among two small pots.
see page 4-213
® Heat one pot to 72 °C /162 "F and second pot to 90 °C /194 °F.

@ Squeeze droplets of yolk mixture into 72 °C/162 °F bath; keep drops separated.
® Cookforl min,

@ Eift drops slightly from pot bottom with small spatula to help them float.

@ Remove droplets when they begin to float, reserving butter. Reserve warm.
® Repeat procedure to make egg white droplets in 90 °C/194 °F bath.
@ Reserve warm.

English muffins, ground 100 g 67% @ Combine in nonstick pan.

Neutral oil 20 g 13.4% @ Fry until golden, about 5 min, and drain.
Salt to taste ® Season toasted crumbs.
Sous vide instant hollandaise 150 g 100% ® Heat in 62 °C/ 144 °F bath for at least 10 min.
see page 305

Canadian bacon, finely diced 45 g 30% ® Warm with spoonful of reserved butter.

@ Fold into egg yolk droplets, egg white droplets, and toasted crumbs.
® Portion egg, bacon, and crumb combination in small bowls,
@ Garnish with small amount of hollandaise.
from page 4-86

MISO-CURED EGG SHEETS Yields 60 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Red miso 75 g 75% ® Combine.
Sake 14g 14% @ Line small bowl with cheesecloth.
Sugar 12 g 12% or use silicone hemispherical mold.
@ Spread mixture in prepared bowl or mold to
form well shape.

Cure the yolks for 48 h on each side Egg yolks, whole 100 g 100% @ Place yolks, individually and intact, in center of
(96 h total) fora softer, more pliable well, and cover with remaining miso mixture.
texture. ® Refrigerate for 48 h to cure. Flip yolks over, and
refrigerate again for 72 h.
® Remove yolks from cure.
@ Roll between two thin silicone mats ortwo
pieces of plastic wrap to form sheets 1mm/ '/n in
thick.
The cured eggyolksheets can be
® Dry at room temperature for 15 min to firm.
cooked in a 70 °C/158 °F bath fora
more flexible texture. ® Use egg sheets for ravioli, or cut into noodles and
dress with bonito flakes and olive oil.
from page 4-87

236 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 PARMESAN CREME BRULEE Yields 450 g (about eight portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Heavy cream 350 g 140% © Bring cream and cheese to simmer.
Parmesan, finely grated 80 g 32% ® Strain, and reserve 250 g of infused cream.
Cheese-infused cream, 250 g 100% @ Blend together.
from above
@ Divide mixture evenly among individual ramekins.
Egg yolks 67.5 g 27%
© Cover ramekins with plasticwrap.
Salt 1.32 g 0.5%
® Cook in 78 °C/172 °F bath or steam oven to core temperature of 77 °C/171 °F, about
35 min.

@ Refrigerate until cool, about 45 min.

Muscat grape syrup oronion 40 g 16% ® Pour syrup over each creme brulee to serve. Alternatively, dust onion sugar over surface
sugar
of custards, and flash with blowtorch until caramelized.
see page 213 or page 231

from page 4-88

Sweet creme brulee can be made with For a lighter custard, substitute milk for
the same basic recipe. Omit the cheese, part of the heavy cream. A typical ratio
add 15%-20% sugar, and cook in a would be half milk, half cream.
82 °C/180 °F bath to a core temperature
of 81 °C/178‘’F.

SAUCE ALLEMANDE This is a slightly Modernist version

of a French haute cuisine classic
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE
perfected by Auguste Escoffierin
White chicken stock 120 g 200% @ Blend until smooth. the early 20th century. We think he
see page 6
@ Pass through fine sieve. would approve. The savory custard
Heavy cream lOOg 167%
@ Vacuum seal. base can be flavored with other
Egg yolks, blended and sieved 60 g 100% stocks or juices.
@ Cook sous vide in 79 °C/174 °F bath for 35 min.
{20%)*
© Blend until smooth once more.
Mushroom jus 50 g 83%
see page 37
Unsalted butter, melted 40 g 67%
Nutmeg, freshly grated to taste © Season.
Salt to taste @ Serve with poached artichokes (see page 3-292)
White pepper to taste and braised chicken thighs (see page 3-99).

from page 4-88 *(% qJ totat weight of all other ingredients)

GELS 237
EGG SALAD SANDWICH INSPIRED BY WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 700 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended 200 g 100% ® Make sleeves measuring 2.5 cm by 30.5 cm /1 in by 12 in from sous vide bags by using
sealing strips ofvacuum sealer.

(D Pipe yolks into sleeves, and tie tops of sleeves tightly to make tube shapes.
(D Clip tubes to top of bath.
@Cookin70°C/158°F bath fori h.

® Remove yolks from sleeves, and cool completely.

® Cut yolks into slices 2 mm / '/ie in thick.
@ Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
Egg yolks 50 g 25% ® Blend until smooth.
Lemon juice 15 g 7.5%
Champagne vinegar Ig 0.5%
Neutral oil 200 g 100% @ Drizzle slowly into yolk mixture, while blending, until fully emulsified.
@ Set aside mayonnaise.
Salted pollock roe 30 g 15% @ Combine.
(store-bought)
@ Fold into mayonnaise.
Cornichons, minced lOg 5% ® Set mixture aside.
Salt 3g 1.5%
Chives, finely minced 2g 1%
Sriracha sauce Ig 0.5%
Pain de mie or white bread, 150 g 75% @ Cut bread into sandwich-size slices.
crusts removed and sliced
® Brush outside of slices with clarified butter.
5 mm /y^6 in thick
@ Toast carefully in pan until golden, about 1 min on each side.
Clarified butter, melted as needed
see page 4-213 @ Spread inside of each slice with mayonnaise.
@ Arrange eggyolks on one slice of bread.
Black pepper to taste ® Season each yolk-covered slice.
Flaky sea salt to taste
Watercress leaves 40 g 20% @ Garnish with leaves.

@ Top each with second slice of toasted bread to complete sandwich.

from page 4-90

Wylie Dufresne came up with these molded egg yolk tubes to serve with
his version of Eggs Benedict, which also involves Deep-Fried Hollandaise
(see page 305) and crispy Canadian bacon. We've used them to make this
delicious egg sandwich to show how versatile a preparation they can be.

238 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 BLENDED EGG GEL

® Measure yolks, whites, liquid ingredients, and seasonings. Use @ Vacuum seal if cooking sous vide (optional).
the weight of egg whites as 100%, and measure other ingredients
® Cook. See the table below for recommended final core temperatures.
proportionally-for instance, use 60 g of yolk and 10 g of cream for each The time required will vary depending on the thickness of the layer of egg
100 g of white in an omelet, and so on. mixture and ofthe cooking vessel.
@ Blend all ingredients thoroughly.

Best Bets for Blended Egg Gels

Egg yolk Egg white Cook
Other
Recipe (scaling) (scaling) Liquid (scaling) ingredients (scaling) Method (°C) (°F) See page
American scrambled eggs 70% 100% whole milk 10% salt 1.8% water bath 70 158
French scrambled eggs 110% 100% whole milk 45% salt 3% water bath 72 162 next
unsalted butter, 45%
melted

omelet 60% 100% heavy cream 10% salt 2% steam oven 82 180 next
savory flan (creme 50% 100% whole milk 300% salt 2% steam oven 83 181 244
caramel) or water bath

chawanmushi 50% 100% mirin 3% salt 2% steam oven 82 180 242

(savory Japanese custard) hon dashi 210% Activa RM 1% or water bath
see page 15

royale custard 400% 100% whole milk 600% flavorful puree. 800% steam oven 80 176 241
heavy cream 300% juice, or stock or water bath

frittata* 50% 100% whole milk 50% Taleggio 25% steam oven 80 176
olive oil 15% cheese, grated

salt 3%
quiche filling* 50% 100% bacon-infused 190% salt 3% steam oven 80 176
heavy cream
see page 2-310

from page 4-92 *(many different flavors can be adapted to these recipes)

BOUDIN NOIR CUSTARD Yields 950 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Yellow onions. lOOg 22% @ Saute onions until translucent.
thinly sliced
@ Cool.
Rendered bacon fat 20 g 4.4%
Whole milk, cold 200 g 44% @ Disperse gelatin into milk.
160 Bloom gelatin 19g 4.2% ® Warm until gelatin is fully dissolved. For more on the steps involved in proper

Heavy cream dispersion and hydration of gelatin, see page

450 g 100% © Combine with onions and milk.
4-124. For more on strategies for clarifying juice,
Egg yolks 80 g 18% ® Blend until smooth.
see page 2-352.
Pigeon blood (fresh) 60 g 13% @ Strain through fine sieve.
Salt 14g 3% ® Vacuum seal.
Dutch-processed cocoa 4g 0.9% ® Cook sous vide in 70 °C /158 °F bath fori h.
powder
® Cool in ice-water bath.
Quatre epices 4g 0.9%
@ Refrigerate.
see page 48
from page 5-127

GELS 239
 FRENCH SCRAMBLED EGGS Yields 520 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks 150 g 100% (D Combine, and blend until smooth.
(from about @ Vacuum seal.
eight large)
@ Cook in 72 °C /162 °F bath until thick, about
Egg whites 130 g 87% 35 min.
(from about
This recipe, and its more formal @ Optionally, transfer eggs to whipping siphon, and
four large)
cousin in volume 5 (see page 5-215), charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges for light.
Unsalted butter, melted 60 g 40% foamy texture.
are among our favorites.
Whole milk 60 g 40% ® Reserve warm.
Daniel Patterson of Coi in San Salt 4g 2.7%
Francisco published a recipe for Beech mushrooms (hon- 120 g 80% ® Saute until cooked through, about 4 min.
poached scrambled eggs in 2007. shimeji), washed thoroughly
Fie carefully drops blended eggs
Unsalted butter 30 g 20%
into seasoned simmering water,
Pancetta, thinly sliced 45 g 30% @ Add to mushrooms, and cookfor2 min.
while stirring, as if makingtradi-
tional poached eggs. He then Mushroom jus 45 g 30% ® Add to mushrooms, and reduce until syrupy,
see page 37 about3 min.
drains the eggs and serves them
with olive oil and salt. They are Creme fralche 30 g 20% ® Whisk into mushroom mixture.
extremely fluffy. Scallions, thinly sliced 10%
15 g
Salt to taste @ Season.

@ Portion scrambled eggs into four bowls, and

garnish with mushroom mixture.
from page 4-93

HAM AND CHEESE OMELET Yields four omelets, about 75 g each

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole eggs 145 g 100% ® Blend thoroughly.
(about three) @ Spread in layer 20 cm by 20 cm / 8 in by 8 in and 2 mm /I'/ie in thick on nonstick tray.
Heavy cream 15 g 10% @ Steam at 80 °C/176 °F until set, about 10 min.
Eggyolk 12 g 8% @ Cool completely, and cut into foursquare portions, 5 cm by 5 cm / 2 in by 2 in.
Salt 2.5 g 1.7% ® Set aside.
Cooked French ham, brunoise 75 g 52% ® Combine.
Cruyere cheese, thinly spread 60 g 41% @ Fill each omelet evenly.
(or brunoise)
® Fold omelets over.
see page 299
Basil, minced 0.35 g 0.24%
chervil, picked 0.35 g 0.24%
Chives, minced 0.35 g 0.24%
Tarragon, minced 0.35 g 0.24%
Clarified brown butter as needed ® Brush onto omelet.
see page 4-213
@ Steam at 80 °C/ 176 °F until cheese has melted, about 4 min.
from page 4-95

By using a combi oven or a low-temperature

steamer (see page 2-162), perfectly done omelets
can be made simultaneously for dozens or even
hundreds of people.

This omelet can also be made in a conventional oven,

but doing so requires great vigilance. Pour a thin layer
of omelet base in a nonstick pan, wrap tightly with
clingfilm orcoverwith a lid, and bake in al20 °C/
250 "F oven until just set, 7-10 min depending
on the wet-bulb temperature.

A dramatic mushroom omelet—a more complex version

of the omelet recipe above—can be found on page 5-215.
We use a pastry comb to create flavorful stripes of mush¬
room puree thickened with albumin and egg yolk powder.

240 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

ASPARAGUS ROYALE inspired by ALAIN DUCASSE YieldsSSOg(abouteightroyales)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Asparagus puree or 200 g 100% ® Blend until smooth.
juice
see page 33 or page 55 @ Press mixture through fine sieve.

whole milk 150 g @ Pour layer 2.5 cm / I In thick Into Individual

75%
bowls.
Eggyolk 105 g 52.5%
® Cover bowls with plastic wrap.
(24%)*
Heavy cream © Cook In 80 °C /176 °F bath or steam oven to core
75 g 37.5%
temperature of 79 °C/174 °F, about 30 min.
Egg white 25 g 12.5%
(5.8%)* ® Reserve royales warm, or refrigerate.

Salt 6.5 g 3.25%

Roasted-hazelnut oil 5g 2.5%
Porcini oil (store-bought) 5g 2.5%
Brown chicken jus 80 g 40% @ Combine. Royales are savory custards, either
see page 34
® Whisk over low heat until just warm, about 2 min. served as Is orcut Into designs and
Black truffle concentrate 20 g 10% floated on the surface of a con¬
see page 57
somme. We think even Antonin
Unsalted butter 20 g 10% Careme would approve of this
Lemon juice to taste © Season warm truffle mixture. recipe, which uses Modernist
Salt to taste @ Divide equally among royales. temperature control to achieve
the perfect texture.
from page 4-94 *(%o of total weight of all other ingredients in royales)

DASHIMAKI TAMAGO Yields 295 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg whites 125 g 167% ® Combine, blending completely.
Egg yolks 75 g 100% @ Vacuum seal to remove bubbles.
Hon dashi 40 g 53% @ Remove from bag, and cast Into nonstick mold In layer 4 cm /11/2 In thick.
see page 15
@ Steam, covered, at 79 °C/174 °F until set, about 25 min.
N-Zorbit M 30 g 40%
® Refrigerate to cool completely, about 30 min.
(National Starch brand)
® Remove from mold.
Agave syrup 20 g 27%
@ Slice tamago into desired dimensions.
White soy sauce 7g 9.3%
Sugar 5g 6.7%
Salt Ig 1.3%
Erying oil as needed ® Heat thin film of oil over medium heat. Sear each tamago on one side until evenly
browned.

® Serve tamago while crust Is warm and center Is still cold for pleasant temperature
contrast.
from page 4-94

PRESSURE-COOKED EGG TOAST adapted erom nils noren and dave Arnold Yields iso g (about six toasts)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks 200 g 100% ® Blend until smooth.
(about 11 yolks) @ Vacuum seal to remove excess air.
Baking powder 9g 4.5% ©Transfer egg mixture to small greased ramekins; fill each halfway full.
Salt 2g 1%
@ Add enough waterto pressure cookerto reach halfway up ramekin sides.
© Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for 40 min to form cooked, muffin¬
like eggs.
© Cool quickly by running cold water over cooker.
Clarified butter, unsalted as needed @ Cut egg rounds in half horizontally, and brush with butter.
® Pry rounds, cut side down, until golden.
Chives, finely minced lOg 5% © Garnish.
Sturgeon caviar as desired

from page 4-97

GELS 241
CHAWANMUSHI Yields 850 g (about eight chawanmushi)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Scallop stock or chicken 350 g 350% © Blend.
stock
@ Vacuum seal.
see page 6 or page 11
@ Cook sous vide in 45 °C /113 °F bath for 10 min to activate enzyme.
Diver scallops, pureed 65 g 65%
and sieved @ Pour chawanmushi base into porcelain bowls to depth of 2.5 cm /1 in.

White soy sauce 18g 18% © Wrap bowls tightly with plastic wrap.

Whole eggs, blended 100 g 100% @ Cook in 82 °C/180 °F water bath or steam oven to core temperature of 81 °C/178 °F, about
(about two) {23%)* 40 min.

Activa RM 8g 8%
(1.5%)**
Scallop stock or chicken 100 g 100% © Simmer stock and sake togetherfor3 min.
stock
see page 6 or page 11
Sake 75 g 75%
Xanthan gum 0.3 g 0.3% ® Blend into stock mixture.
Unsalted butter, cubed 50 g 50% @ Blend into stock mixture until fully emulsified.
Salt to taste @ Season sauce.
Prosciutto crudo, finely 30 g 30% ® Whisk into sauce.
diced ® Garnish each chawanmushi evenly.
Dates, finely diced 25 g 25%
Scallions, thinly sliced 20 g 20%
Lemon verbena, thinly 3g 3%
sliced
from page 4-96 *(% of total weight offirst three ingredients)
**{% of total weight offirst four ingredients)

BOUDIN NOIR BREAD PUDDING Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Day-old brioche, 500 g 100% © Cut into slices 2.5 cm / I in thick.

crust removed @ Place slices in bottom of deep hotel pan.
Boudin noir custard, 500 g 100% © Pourcustard over brioche, and place pan quickly in vacuum chamber. Warm custard will
warmed penetrate better than cold.
see page 239
@ Pull full vacuum twice, turn brioche slices over, and pull vacuum three more times, oras many
times as necessary for bread to fully absorb custard.
© Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
® Cut gelled brioche slices into 3.75 cm /IV2 in by 5 cm / 2 in rectangles.
Frying oil as needed @ Dust brioche rectangles with trehalose on all sides.
Trehalose as needed © Deep-fry in 175 °C/ 350 °F oil for3 min.
Glucose syrup DE 40 as needed ® While frying rectangles, heat glucose syrup in nonstick saute pan over medium high.

Salt as needed ® Remove rectangles from oil, and pat dry with paper towels. Transfer immediately to saute pan,
and coatwith hot glucose syrup.
® Cook, flipping constantly, until golden shell forms on all sides, about 3 min.
® Transferto nonstick surface, season with salt, and cool at room temperature until shells
harden, about 1 min.
from page 5-127

242 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 CHORIZO FRENCH TOAST Yieids250 g (four slices) @ Combine milk and chorizo.

INGREDIENT @ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 85 °C/185 °F bath fori h.
QUANTITY SCALING
Whole milk @ Cool completely. Strain, and reserve 600 g.
600 g 300%
Spanish chorizo, ground 150 g ® Blend reserved chorizo milk with eggs and salt until smooth.
75%
Chorizo milk, from above 600 g ® Place brioche rounds in container, and pour custard over brioche.
300%
Whole eggs, blended 245 g ® Place container in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum until custard boils.
122.5%
[41%)* @ Release vacuum; custard will be fully absorbed by brioche.
Salt 9g 4.5% ® Saute brioche rounds until golden on both sides. (This step can be
Brioche, cut into 5 cm / 2 in rounds 200 g 100% reversed with step 10 if desired.)

Quail eggs four eggs ® Cook in 150 °C/300 °F oven to core temperature of 80 °C/176 °F, about
7 min. Alternatively, vacuum seal under weak vacuum, and cook sous
Frying oil as needed
vide in 80 °C /176 °F bath or steam oven for 10 min.
from page 4-98 *{% of weight of chorizo milk)
® Fry quail eggs in nonstick pan until whites are cooked through but yolks
French toast is good when made with many savory flavors, such as aged are still runny. If making large quantities, consider using the two-stage
cheese, foie gras, sweet peas, corn—even savory nut milks. "fried" egg approach—see page 2 and page 235.
To make a foie gras version of this recipe, simply blend 400 g of milk with @ Top toast rounds with fried eggs. Serve with olive marmalade (recipe
200 g of raw foie gras, and use this mixture instead of the chorizo-infused below). We garnish our chorizo French toast with thyme, but there are
milk. We also had great success with a blend of 300 g of milk and 300 g of many other possibilities.
toasted almond milk (see page 228).

OLIVE MARMALADE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fennel, finely minced 30 g 100% ® Saute over low heat until tender, about 12 min.
@ Cool completely.
Stripes of mushroom puree make
Olive oil 30 g 100% @ Fold into fennel. for a visually stunning omelet in the
Shallots, minced lOg 33% recipe below, but skippingthis step
Picholine olives, minced 30 g 100% greatly simplifies the recipe and

Candied orange rind, minced saves nearly an hour of effort. Also,

15 g 50%
omitting the stripes does nottake
Nigoise olives, minced lOg 33%
away from what makes this omelet
Thyme, leaves 0.1 g 0.33% @ Season. special: the remarkable texture.
Salt to taste Truffle concentrate (see page 57)
from page 4-99 is a decadent substitute for the
mushroom puree.

OMELET BASE Yields300g(aboutfouromelets)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs 145 g 100% ® Blend thoroughly to create egg base, and reserve.
Heavy cream 15 g 10.3%

Egg yolks 12 g 8.3%

Salt 2.5 g 1.7%

Mushroom puree lOOg 69% @ Combine, and spread onto silicone mat in Iayer20 cm / 8 in square and 2 mm /Xs in thick.
see page 55
@ Pull pastry comb with 3 mm //s in teeth through mushroom puree mixture to create even
Egg yolk powder 15.5 g 10.7% lines. If pastry comb is unavailable, proceed to step 4.
Heavy cream 10.3g 7.1% ® Pour egg base evenly over mushroom puree mixture, between lines if pastry comb was used.
Albumin powder 8.8 g 6% in Iayer2 mm /Xe in thick.
(store-bought) ® Steam in 82 °C/180 °F combi oven with 100% relative humidity, or CVap oven with same
Salt 1.1% settings, until set, about 10 min.
1-7g
® Cut into fours cm /2 in squares.

@ Reheat omelet squares in 82 °C /180 °F combi oven with 100% relative humidity, or CVap oven
at same temperature with browning level set to 0, for 3 min.
Scrambled egg foam, 200 g 138% ® Dispense straight line of scrambled egg foam down centers of omelet squares.
warmed
® Spoon marmalade in straight lines next to scrambled egg foam lines.
see page 5-216

Mushroom marmalade, 80 g 55%

warmed
see page 5-217

from page 5-217

GELS 243
SMOKED EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS

© Select the ingredient. The table below lists several good options. water on the bottom rack of the smoker, and use gauges to monitor the
@ Preheat and prehumidify the smokerto the temperature and relative heat and humidity.
humidity indicated in the table. Some smokers allow you to set the @ Smoke forthe time indicated.
temperature and relative humidity directly; otherwise, place a pan of
@ Use immediately, or chill quickly and thoroughly.

Best Bets for Smoking Dairy and Eggs

Dry-bulb Wet-bulb
temperature temperature Relative
Ingredient (°c) (°F) {°C) fF) humidity (h) Example use Seepage
cold-smoked eggs, shelled 60 140 48 118 50% 7 flan, creme anglaise, mayonnaise below
cream 7 45 5 42 75% 41/2 cream sauce, cream cheese
butter, hot-smoked 30 85 22 72 50% 4 spread for toast
butter, cold-smoked 10 50 6 43 55% 24 poached salmon with smoked 5-161
beurre blanc
cheese (mozzarella, Parmesan, cheddar) 10 50 6 43 55% 24 pizza, cheese plate
from page 4-100

SMOKED EGG CREME CARAMEL Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 150 g 150% © Vacuum seal together, and cook sous vide in
Bacon, minced lOOg 100% 90 “C/194 “F bath for 0/2 h.

Shallots, finely minced 30 g 30% @ Remove from bag, and strain; reserve 100 g of
milk.
If cold smokingthe eggs is not an
option, use fresh eggs, and add @ Cool milk.

0.75 g (0.5% of the total weight of Bacon-infused milk, lOOg 100% ® Blend together until smooth.
infused milk and eggs) of good from above
® Vacuum seal to remove any trapped air bubbles.
quality liquid smoke instead. Cold-smoked eggs, shelled 50 g 50%
see above

Salt 2.3 g 2.3%

Sugar 40 g 40% ® Combine in pan. Cook over medium heat until
Water 20 g 20% sugar becomes dark caramel, about 7 min.

Black pepper, coarsely ground 0.1 g 0.1% @ Pour caramel into four ramekins, and cool.
® Spoon 2.5 cm /I in thick layer of custard over
caramel.

® Steam ramekins at 83 °C/181 °F for 15 min, and

cool completely.
@ To serve, invert onto plates.
from page 4-101

PECORINO WITH TRUFFLE HONEY ON CEDAR adapted from scott carsberc

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Smoked Tuscan Pecorino 250 g 100% ® Cut cheese into four triangular chunks, each 1.25 cm / 1/2 in thick. Set aside at room
cheese, aged 18 months temperature.
Black truffles, finely chopped 50 g 20% © Combine.
Acacia honey lOg 4% ® Set aside at room temperature.
Cedar plank @ To serve, preheat oven to 260 °C / 500 °F.

® Place cheese chunks on plank, and bake until bubbling and very soft, about 5 min.

® Remove plank from oven. Ignite edges of plank with blowtorch to create smoke.
Candied chestnuts (store- 25 g 10% @ Garnish bubbling cheese with truffle honey and candied chestnuts (marrons glace).
bought), cut into small cubes
® Serve on smoking plank to imbue room with smoked-wood aroma.
from page 4-101

244 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

PROTEIN CURDS

@ Select a curd recipe and texture. The table presents good options that mixture into the milk or cream. The amounts of lactic acid, citric acid,
use a variety of coagulants with different flavors and textures. and glucono delta-lactone indicated were selected to achieve the pH
shown. If curd texture is too firm (pH too high) or too loose (pH too low),
@ Adjust soluble solids concentration, if using soy milk, to 10-14 °Brix.
adjust the coagulant quantity accordingly (see page 2-316).
Use a refractometer or a float that measures the density (see page 2-313).
You may need to reduce fresh soy milk to achieve this concentration; @ Heat at temperature indicated for the time shown.
the higher the density, the richer, firmer, and less elastic the tofu will be. @ Remove from heat, and allow to curdle. Approximate setting times are
@ Measure liquid. Scale ingredients relative to the weight of the liquid; given in the table.
in ricotta, for example, use 0.3 g of lactic acid for every 100 g of milk. ® Season (optional). See example recipes on the pages indicated.
@ Preheat the liquid to the cooking temperature. Use a water bath, ® Cut, drain, and press evenly (for firm-textured curds only). Press both
if available. Do not preheat if making silken tofu or ricotta. dairy and soy curds while they are still warm (65-75 °C/149-167 °F)
© Dissolve the coagulant in a small amount ofwater, and then stirthe to ensure proper bonding and a good final texture.

Best Bets for Protein Curds

Recipe Liquid (scaling) Texture Coagulant* (scaling) (°C) (°F) (min) (min) Note pH page
basic milk raw milk or 100% tender. rennet 0.35% 38 100 1 7 set in serving container; 8.2 247

curd unhomogenized, brittle forfirmer curds, cut curds.

pasteurized milk and heat at 47 °C /116 °F
for 1/2-1 h, and then drain,
and cut again

ricotta whole milk 100% tender. lactic acid 0.3% 85 185 1 35 for salted and aged ricot- 5.4 248
heavy cream 10% brittle ta, fold in 0.7% salt, press
refrigerated for 1-3 d,
drain, and hang for 1-3 wk

fresh cottage whole milk 100% tender. rennet 1% 38 100 1 7 whisk to break apart curd. 8.2

cheese brittle 38 100 1 h hold at 38 °C /100 °F for

1 h, and drain whey; fold
in cream to taste

paneer whole milk 100% firm. lactic acid 0.35% 82 180 5 20 press while warm, and 5.8

cultured yogurt 1% elastic refrigerate for 24 h

tofu soy milk 100% silken glucono 0.2% 80 176 1 15 milk density affects tofu 6.3 246
see page 227 delta-lactone texture; let silken tofu set

medium nigari 0.35% 85 185 1 30 in serving container, and n/a

firm granules then steam undisturbed
at 80 °C/176 °F
firm calcium 0.4% 80 176 3 20 n/a 248
sulfate

farmer's whole milk 100% firm. rennet 0.4% 23 73 1 heat milkforl min at 8.1
brittle buttermilk 0.4% 97 VA h n/a 23 "C / 73 °F, and then add
cheese heavy cream 5% 36
other ingredients, and
hold for 114 h at 36 °C /
97 °F; press while warm,
and refrigerate for 12-24 h

posset heavy cream 100% tender. citric acid 0.7% 88 190 1 4h add 15%-25% sugar to 6.7
(stabilizer-free) smooth make a posset dessert

from page 4-104 *{BioRen rennet tablets were used for alt of our recipes; other brands may alter the formulations slightly)

GELS 245
COCOA NIB CURD INSPIRED BY MICHEL TROISGROS Yields! kg(10 portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk, unhomogenized 1kg 100% @ Vacuum seal together, and refrigerate for 12 h to infuse.
Cocoa nibs 50 g 5% @ Remove from bag, and strain.
(D Heat milk to 38 °C/100 °F.
Rennet tablet (BioRen brand) 3.5 g 0.35% @ Dissolve rennet tablet in water.
Water lOg 1% ® Stir in warm milk.
® Stir for 10 s.
@ Leave mixture in pot, or pour quickly into small bowls to depth of 2.5 cm / 1 in.
® Let stand at room temperature until set, about 7 min.
Cocoa nibs, toasted to taste @ Garnish as desired, and season evenly.
Eleurde sel to taste
Grapefruit zest, finely grated to taste

Maple syrup to taste

Olive oil to taste

Shiso leaves, fine julienne to taste

from page 4-105

You can use glucono delta-lactone in place of the rennet and still achieve the same
texture. Dissolve the GDL in cold milk, pourthe mixture into molds or bowls, and then
steam at 80 °C/176 °F for 20 mi n.

GOAT CHEESE DUMPLINGS adapted erom h. Alexander talbot and aki kamozawa Yieidsssog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Goat cheese, fresh 300 g 100% ® Blend completely.

Ricotta, fresh 200 g 67% @ Transfer mixture to pastry bag.
Egg yolk 36 g 12% @ Pipe into silicone sphere molds measuring 2.5 cm / I in. in diameter (see page 4-135).
Activa YG 5.4 g 1.8% @ Tap molding sheet on counter to eliminate bubbles.
(/%)* ® Refrigerate, covered, for 12 h to set.
Salt 3.5 g 1.2% ® To serve, warm spheres gently in simmering water. When hot, serve with desired sauce or
Cayenne pepper 0.25 g 0.08% glaze.

from page 4-105 *{% of total weight of first three ingredients)

SILKEN TOFU Yields 585 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Soy milk 400 g 100% @ Check density of soy milk, and dilute or reduce as needed to reach 12 °Brix.
see page 227
@ Dissolve GDL in small amount of soy milk, and then whisk solution into remaining milk for
Glucono delta-lactone (GDL) 0.8 g 0.2% 10 s to distribute evenly.
@ Pour into small bowls or mold to depth of 2.5 cm /1 in.
@ Steam in 80 °C /176 °F combi oven or water-vapor oven until set, 30-40 min.

® Transfer to molds, and cool at room temperature until slightly firmed, about 15 min, and
then refrigerate.
Tomato water 100 g 25% ® Combine to make dressing.
see page 40
@ Check seasoning; add salt if necessary.
white soy sauce lOg 2.5%
® Set aside.
Rice vinegar 8g 2%

Salmon roe 60 g 15% ® Garnish tofu.

Basil, leaves 8g 2%

Extra-virgin olive oil as needed ® Season, and pour dressing at table.

Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste
from page 4-113

246 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

FRESH CHEESE CURDS Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 4 kg 100% ® Verify that pH of milk is 8-9.

@ Heat to 30 °C/ 86 °F, and hold at that temperature in warm bath.

Mesophilic starter n/a* © Sprinkle over surface of warm milk, and let sit 5 min.
Ig
(MesophileType II) @ Stir in until evenly distributed.

Thermophilic starter n/a* © Sprinkle oversurface of warm milk, and let sit 5 min.
Ig
(ThermophileType 11) © Stir in until evenly distributed.

Water 40 g 1% 0 Dissolve rennet in water.

Rennet tablet (BioRen brand) 0.5 g 0.01% © Stir mixture into warm milk, and wait for milk to set into one large curd, 15-30 min.

@ Remove from heat, and cut into 2 cm / y4 in cubes.

@ Heat cut curds in 40°C/ 104 °Fbath, removing whey from surface every 10-20 min
until texture resembles elastic egg white, 1-11/2 h.
® Check that pH is 5-5.2. If it is not, hold curd at 40 °C / 104 “F until pH reaches target
range.
® Drain curd, and cut to desired size.
® Refrigerate for 2 h.
@ Serve or use within 24 h; cultures cause curd to start to sour after 1 d._

from page 4106 *{these are live cultures; follow directions on manufacturer's packaging when scaling quantities)

To make squeaky curds, follow the To make curds without rennet or To make feta, use the recipe above To make fresh mozzarella, follow

recipe above, but in step 10 heat cultures, heat them in a pressure with at least 70% sheep's milk. At the recipe above through step 11,

the curds to 47 °C /117 "F, and hold canner or autoclave to at least step 12, press curds lightly into a and then drain curds, and cut into

there fori h. Drain, cut, and season 128 °C / 262 °F for 30-40 min. The basket to drain, and rest for24 h at 1.25 cm / 1/2 in cubes. Heat reserved

Serve, or cool quickly and store, curds will turn light brown and about 20 °C/ 68 °F. The pH should whey to 85 °C/185 °F, and ladle

refrigerated, for up to 2 d. develop a flavor reminiscent of drop to 4.7-4.8. Soak, refrigerated, over cubes to just cover. Let rest
creme caramel. Add 0.3% of in a brine containing 3% salt and 4 min until softened, and then
sodium hexametaphosphate to 0.07% calcium chloride fori wk. drain. Repeat process three times,
yield a more cohesive, firm puck. For drier curds, cure briefly with dry covering curds with hot whey
salt at room temperature, and rinse. until they begin to melt together.
Mold curds by hand into teardrop
shapes, or pour into a mold. The
mozzarella becomes stretchier and
firmer with handling. Hold formed
balls in a bowl of cold water.
Season, and serve warm or soak in a
brine containing 4% salt and 0.07%
calcium chloride for 12- 24 h.

Yields 700 g
MODERNIST BURRATA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Forthe filling:

Fresh cheese curds 300 g 100% ® Puree 100 g curds, and shred remaining200 g.
see above @ Mix cream and salt into curds to make cream-curd filling.
Heavy cream 300 g 100%
@ Refrigerate.
Salt 6g 2%

Forthe skin:

Whole milk 300 g 100% @ Mix milk, cream, salt, and gelatin.

Heavy cream 100 g 33% ©Bring to 65 °C /149 °F to dissolve gelatin.

Salt 4g 1.3% ® Coolto50°C/122°F.

Activa YC 6g 2% @ Add Activa.

160 Bloom gelatin 8g 2.7% ® Cast onto level, nonstick surface.

@ Rest at room temperature fori h, and then refrigerate overnight.
® Cut to desired size, and lay over plated cream-curd filling.

Extra-virgin olive oil to taste @ Garnish and season.

Salt to taste
Seasonal herbs, leaves_to taste__^
from page 4T09

GELS
247
GOAT MILK RICOTTA Yields 850 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

For ricotta:

Lactic acid 4g 0.2% © Dissolve acid into water, and stiracid solution into cold milk.
Water 25 g 1.4% © Heat milk to 85 °C /185 ’’F, stirring gently. As soon as milk starts coagulating, stop stirring.
Coat milk 1.8 kg 100% © Continue to heat as needed until milk reaches 85 °C /185 °F.

@ Remove from heat, and allow to curdle at room temperature for 30 min.

® Strain curds through cheesecloth, and then drain curds, refrigerated, for3 h for wet
ricotta or for up to 12 h for drier cheese. Discard liquid.
Fleavy cream 250 g 14% ® Fold into drained curds. Refrigerate if not serving immediately.
Forfrozen honey powder (optional):

Water 200 g 11% © Whisk together.

Buckwheat honey 80 g 4.4% © Pour into Pacojet beaker.

® Freeze to -20 "C / -4 °F or below.

@ To serve, Pacotize once to make fine powder.
® Spoon around ricotta.
Thyme (several varieties to taste @ Carnish as desired.
such as lemon, English,
caraway, silver)
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste

Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste

from page 4108

For tender, coarse ricotta, stop stirring as soon as coagulation begins,

regardless of the temperature of the milk. For ricotta with a finer, more
traditional grain, keep stirring until the target temperature is reached.

FIRM TOFU Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

These tofu recipes use fresh,
homemade soy milk (see page 227). Calcium sulfate 2g 0.4% © Dissolve calcium sulfate in cold water.
Store-bought soy milk often will not Water 20 g 4% @ Set aside.
work with these recipes because it Soy milk(12 °Brix) 500 g 100% © Check solid content of soy milk, and dilute or
contains various additives. see page 227 reduce as needed to reach 12-14 °Brix.
Salt 3g 0.6% @ Add salt, and bring to 80 °C/176 °F while stirring
A quick alternative for making
constantly.
instant firm tofu is to hydrate 0.2%
low-acyl gellan and 0.15% high-acyl © Add calcium sulfate waterto hot milk, and
gellan in soy milk at 85 °C /185 °F. remove from heat.
The mixture will set as it cools. © Coagulate at room temperature for 3-4 min.
@ Line mold fortofu with cheesecloth.

The amount of calcium sulfate or © Ladle coagulated soy milk into mold.
other coagulant required depends ® Seal mold quickly while curds are warm (68-
on the amount of protein available 70 "C/154-156 °F), and put heavyweight on lid.
in the mixture. Soy beans vary in @ Press at room temperature for 25 min, and then
their protein content, so always test remove from mold, and refrigerate until firm.
a small amount of soy milk before
Scallions, thinly sliced 50 g 10% ® Cutto desired dimensions, and garnish.
making each batch. When the
Daikon radishes, finely grated 40 g 8%
properamount of coagulant is
used, the whey becomes transpar- Fresh ginger, fine julienne 40 g 8%
ent. A yellow hue to the whey and Bonito flakes (katsobushi) 20 g 4%
a coarse curd texture signal White soy sauce 50 g 10% ® Combine to make sauce.
overcoagulation; a cloudy whey
Dark soy sauce 30 g 6% ® Carnish tofu with sauce as desired.
is a sign of undercoagulation.
Mirin 15 g 3%
Rice vinegar 7g 1.4%
from page 4-112

248 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

MOZZARELLA BALLOONS inspired by grant achatz Yields 700 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Fresh cheese curds 800 g 100% @ Cut into 2 cm / % in cubes.
see page 247
@ Reserve 150 g of curds for cream filling.
@ Reserve 650 g of curds in large bowl to make balloon skins.
Whole milk 180g 22.5% @ Blend thoroughly to form cream filling.
Fresh cheese curds, from above 150 g 18.8% © Pour into 1 1 siphon.
Heavy cream 30 g 3,75% @ Charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
Salt 2.75 g 0.34% @ Refrigerate.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.1 g 0.01%
CP kelco brand)
Water 5 kg 625% ® Heat water to 75 °C /167 °F.
Fresh cheese curds, from above 650 g 81% ® Ladle water into bowl to cover curds.
@ Let curds sit undisturbed for3 min.
® Pour out first covering of water.
@ Ladle in second covering of water.
@ Let curds sit undisturbed again for 3 min.
@ Pour out second covering of water.
@ Ladle in third covering ofwater.
@ Touch curds. If they begin to stretch and shine, they are ready. If not, let sit longer, and
cover with fresh hot water every 3-5 min.
® Pick up lime-size ball of curd. Knead surface to develop smooth and shiny skin. Reserve
remaining curds in warm water.
@ Shake siphon vigorously.
@ Place ball of curd over tip of inverted siphon.
@ Fill curd ball quickly with cream filling; try to keep out excess air. Complete filling process
within 20 s.
@ Once desired size is reached, pinch each balloon closed,
@ Repeat steps 17-21 to fill remaining curds.
@ If curds will not be served immediately, reserve in cold water bath.
Tomato whey broth or tomato 200 g 25% @ To serve, place balloons in bowls, and pour seasoned broth or tomato water around
water balloons.
see page 212 or page 40
@ Garnish with basil and, optionally, with basil oil (see page 27).
Cinnamon basil, leaves to taste
from page 4410

GREEN PEAYUBA inspired by TAKASH1 SUGIMOTO Yieldsl50g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Soy milk 950 g 100% ® Reserve 50 g of soy milk for later use.
see page 227
@ Blend pea puree with 900 g soy milk until smooth.
Green pea puree 400 g 42%
@ Strain pea milk through fine sieve, and transfer to pot,
see page 55 (from 500 g of
@ Bringto 80 °C /176 °F over medium heat.
frozen peas)
© Lower heat. Yuba will form on surface of pea milk mixture in about 3 min.
© Line baking sheet with plastic wrap, and brush sheet with reserved soy milk.
© Lift yuba carefully from pot, and transfer to milk-brushed sheet. Cover with plastic wrap.
® Refrigerate fori h until firm.
chervil, leaves as needed © Arrange several yuba sheets on each plate.
Flaky sea salt to taste @ Garnish.
Gingeroil to taste
Fresh horseradish, to taste
finely grated
from page 4115

GELS 249
MILK SKIN WITH GRILLED SALSIFY AND TRUFFLE PUREE Yields 600 g (four portions)

ADAPTED FROM RENE REDZEPI

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Raw or nonfiomogenized 1kg 100% ® Blend,
whole milk (D Pour into pot whose diameter is desired size of milk skin.
Skim milk powder 30 g 3% @ Cut parchment paper circles to match diameter of pot. Parchment paper will help transfer
and store milk skins.

@ Bring milk to boil, and hold at 80 °C/176 °F until skin forms, about 7 min.
® Discard first skin, which is too tender to work with.

® Place parchment circle on top of second skin, and delicately peel skin off.
@ Rest skin on parchment circle at room temperature.
® Repeat process to make four skin sheets. (Although 1 kg of milk will make many more than
four sheets, it can be difficult to work with very small quantities of milk.)
Salsify roots, peeled and cut 400 g 40% ® Saute salsify in thin film of oil in nonstick pan, while basting constantly with oil, until tubes
into tubes 10 cm / 4 in long are golden on all sides, about 4 min.
Neutral oil as needed @ Drain, and pat dry.
Salt to taste @ Season salsify.

@ Cool to room temperature.

® Divide salsify into four portions, and place each one on center of plate.

© Remove each milk skin from parchment, and coversalsify portion.

Black trumpet mushroom 50 g 5% ® Blend together mushroom and truffle purees until smooth.
puree
® Garnish plates evenly.
see page 2-424

Black truffle concentrate lOg 1%

see page 57

Extra-virgin canola 30 g 3%
(rapeseed) oil
Wild watercress leaves 20 g 2%
(or regular watercress)
from page 4114

250 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

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L«*Mir4 t>M
TRANSGLUTAMINASE GELS

@ Select a recipe. The table below gives some examples. @ Refrigerate 12-24 hours to set. If the base is heat-tolerant, you can reduce
the setting time to 1 h in the refrigerator by first warming the mixture to
@ Blend Activa into the liquid or puree. Quantities in the table are given as
40-45 "C/104-113 °Fforl0 min, or 55 °C/130 °Ffor5 min. Warming it
a proportion of the main fluid. For example, to make a flourless gnocchi,
use 1.3 g of Activa CS, 3 g of 160 Bloom gelatin, and 6.6 g of heavy cream above 60 °C /140 °F destroys the enzyme activity.

for every 100 g of potato puree.

Best Bets for Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa)

Typical concentration
Application Type Components (scaling)* Example recipe Base

dairy gels Activa YC transglutaminase, lactose, yeast 0.05%-3.0% yogurt low-fat yogurt
extract, maltodextrin mozzarella noodle mozzarella
adapted from Aki Kamozawa ricotta
and H. AiexanderTalbot

heat-stable milk skin milk

160 Bloom gelatin

ricotta gnocchi ricotta

sour cream spaetzle sour cream

ricotta

water

whey protein isolate

160 Bloom gelatin

egg gels and Activa RM transglutaminase, sodium caseinate, 0.1%-2.0% chawanmushi whole egg

soy gels maltodextrin pureed scallop

flavorful liquids

gelatin gels Activa GS transglutaminase, gelatin, trisodium 0,05%-!.8% flourless potato gnocchi potato puree
phosphate, maltodextrin heavy cream

160 Bloom gelatin

from page 4116

Activa is made by Ajinomoto, the same Japanese Avoid inhaling Activa or any other For more on the origin of transglutaminase and
company that commercialized monosodium glutamate enzyme or powder. how this enzyme works, see page 3-250,
in 1909 (see page 1-213).

SOUR CREAM SPAETZLE Yields 150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

@ Disperse gelatin into cold water, and heat to dissolve. Allow to cool.
160 Bloom gelatin 6g 3.3%
@ Blend sour cream with gelatin mixture, and rest at room temperature for 5 min.
Water 40 g 22.2%
@ Set spaetzle maker or perforated pan over an ice-water bath, and grate spaetzle base
Sour cream IBOg 100%
to form individual dumplings.
Ricotta 180 g 100%
@ Transfer in one layer to sheet lined with plastic wrap.
Whey protein isolate 65 g 36%
@ Refrigerate for at least 4 h to set protein.
Activa YG 4g 2.2%
(0.9%)* © Drain spaetzle, and fry in clarified butter until golden, about 3 min.

Salt 2% @ Season to taste.

3g
Clarified butter 50 g 27.8%

Salt to taste

from page 4-117 *(% of total weight of all ingredi¬

ents except butter and salt)

252 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 Activa Set See
(scaling) (scaling) Prep (°C) (-F) (h) page
100% 0.15% stir in 55 131 5 min
100% 1.3% puree until smooth with Pacojet refrigerated 18
34% (1%)* or food processor; cast onto
acetate 1 mm / /32 in thick
100% 1% cast onto acetate 1 mm / 732 in 45 113 10 min 247
1% thick

100% 0.7% shape logs for cutting gnocchi refrigerated 12

before setting
100% 2.2% see above refrigerated 12 below
100% (0.9%)*

40%

36%

100% 8% cast onto acetate 1 mm /’/32 in 45 113 10 min 242

65% (1.5%)* thick

368%

100% 1.3% stir into cold puree; shape logs refrigerated 12 254
6.6% (/%)* for cutting gnocchi before setting

3%

*{%of total weight of base ingredients)

SALMON CUSTARD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Salmon belly, skinless 700 g 700% (T) Combine in food processor, and blend to smooth paste.
White fish stock 450 g 450% @ Vacuum seal.
see page 6
@ Cook in 40 °C/104 °F bath fori h.
Salt 7g 7%
@ Centrifuge at 12,000^ for 1 h.
Nutrifos 088 (ICL Performance 2g 2%
© Separate salmon liquid and rendered salmon fat, and reserve. Discard solids.
Products brand)
Salmon liquid, from above lOOg 100% ® Disperse PGA into salmon liquid.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.5 g 0.5% @ Heat gently to 50 °C/122 °F to hydrate fully.
(Protanal Ester BV 4830, (0.42%)*
EMC BioPolymer brand)
Rendered salmon fat, 20 g 20% © Slowly drizzle into warm salmon liquid while homogenizing.
from above
Activa RM 0.9 g 0.9% ® Add to mixture, and blend until smooth.
(0.75%)* (jolTransferto molds, and chill.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.1 g 0.1%
® To serve, cook custard in 53 °C/ 127 °F bath or steam oven to core temperature of
CP Kelco brand)
52 °C /126 °F, about 25 min.
from page 4-119 *{% of total weight of salmon liquid and fat)

GELS 253
EDAMAME SHEETS, KING CRAB, CINNAMON DASHI ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields300g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Fresh edamame (or defrosted 250 g 125% ® Blend to fine puree.
frozen edamame) @ Pass through fine sieve.
Water 100 g 50% d) Reserve 200 gfor later use.

160 Bloom gelatin 13.75g 6.8% ® Disperse gelatin in cold water.

Water 50 g 25% (D Heat until melted.

Edamame puree, from above 200 g 100% ® Combine with gelatin mixture.

Water 25 g 12.5% @ Blend until completely smooth.

Activa RM 3.5 g 1.75% ® Cast onto silicone mat, and spread into even layer 0.5 mm /'/st in thick.
{1.2%)* ® Refrigerate until set, at least 6 h, and cut into squares 7.5 cm/ 3 in wide.
Activa GS 2g 1%
(0.69%)*

Hon dashi 200 g 100% ® Combine and warm. Add more cinnamon extract to taste. If the broth coagulates, strain
see page 15 through fine sieve.
Cinnamon extract 2.5g 1.25%
see page 27

Salt to taste @ Season cinnamon dashi.

@ Add edamame sheets to stack, warmingthem.

® Set aside.

King crab tails or claws 160 g 80% @ Sear until just cooked through, about 1 min per side.
(about
four pieces)

Clarified butter 50 g 25%

Salt to taste ® Season crab pieces.

Seasonal herbs as needed ® Place one piece on each plate.

@ Drape warmed edamame sheet over each piece.
@ Pour cinnamon dashi over edamame, and sprinkle with seasonal herbs. Serve
immediately.

from page 4T18 *{% of total weight of gelatin mixture, edamame puree, and water)

FLOURLESS GNOCCHI Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Russet potatoes, washed 900 g 150% ® Cook sous vide in 92 °C / 198 °F bath for2 h.
(about four large) @ Cut potatoes in half, and scoop out hot potato flesh.
@ Press, while still hot, through ricer orfood mill.

@ Cool.
© Reserve 600 g of puree.

160 Bloom gelatin 19.2 g 3.2% ® Bloom gelatin in cold cream.

(3%)* @ Warm cream mixture until gelatin is dissolved.
Eleavy cream 40 g 6.6% ® Cool.
Activa GS 6.4 g 1.07% @ Whisk into cream.
(1%,)*
Potato puree, from above 600 g 100% @ Fold cream into potato mixture to form dough.

Salt to taste ® Season dough.

@ Gently roll into log Ictn / ft in. in diameter.

@ Cut into desired size gnocchi.

@ Transferto parchment paper-lined tray.
® Refrigerate until firm, about 12 h.
©Bring gnocchi to room temperature, about 20 min.

Unsalted butter, cut into cubes 120 g 20% ® Cook butter in saute pan until solids begin to brown, about 3 min.
@ Add gnocchi, gently stirring until warmed through, about 2 min.

® Remove from heat.

Sage, thinly sliced 6g 1% @ Fold in.

from page 4-119 *{% of total weight of potatoes and cream)

254 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 STARCH GELS

DEEP-FRIED CUSTARD Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
All-purpose flour 32 g 12.8% ® Whisk together.
White chicken stock 250 g 100% @ Bringto boil, and cook for5 min.
see page 6 or page 11

Egg yolks, blended

era

10% @ Whisk together into smooth paste.

Cornstarch
era

3.6% ® Temper hot stock into egg mixture.

® Return to pan, and cook over low heat until mixture thickens, about2 min.
Unsalted butter, cubed lOg 4% ® Stir butter into cooked custard until melted.

@ Quickly cast hot mixture into silicone mold in 2.5 cm /I in thick layer.
® Refrigerate until set, about 3 h.
Potato starch as needed @ Cut custard into cubes or desired shapes, and dredge in potato starch; shake off excess.
Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry cubes in 190 °C / 375 °F oil until golden, about 2 min.
Salt to taste ® Drain and season.
XO sauce 100 g 40% ® Pour over fried cubes generously just before serving.
see page 213

from page 4-120

The starch in the custard, and dusted on its exterior, allows us to

deep-fry it without a batter. This recipe is essentially a deep-fried savory
pastry cream. For a sweet version of the recipe, replace the chicken
stock with whole milk, and add 26 g of sugar (8% of the overall weight).

BURMESE CHICKPEA TOFU LAKSA Yields 1.4 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 100% The particles in the chickpea mix¬
® Blend until completely homogenized.
ture must be very fine to yield an
Chickpea flour 350 g 35% @ Line fine sieve with three layers of cheesecloth.
elastic, homogenized gel instead
@ Strain chickpea mixture through fine sieve into of one with a grainy, brittle texture.
pot. Sieving with a fine sieve or through
@ Bringto boil. cheesecloth is crucial to achieve

® Remove from heat. a good result.

Salt 14 g 1.4% ® Whisk into hot chickpea mixture.

Turmeric powder 0-5 g 0.05% @ Divide mixture evenly among molds 5 cm / 2 in The chickpea tofu is delicious
thick. when deep-fried and served with
a sweet-and-sour glaze or a spicy
® Refrigerate for 4 h until firmly set.
paste.
® Cut into cubes.
Kumamoto or Olympia oysters 12 pieces @ Shuck, reserving juices separately.
Laksa broth 200 g 20% @ Warm broth.
see page 17
@ Add oyster juice to taste.
Oyster juice, from above This so-called tofu is really
to taste
@ Add half of tofu cubes and oysters to broth, and a starch gel that plays a big role in
warm through. the traditional cuisine of Myanmar
Frying oil as needed @ Deep-fry remaining cubes in 190°C/375 °F oil (formerly Burma).
until golden, about 3 min.
Mint, leaves as needed ® Garnish.
Cucumber, peeled, seeded, as needed
and sliced
from page 4-121

GELS 255
 CORN BREAD Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Corn kernels (fresh-cut) 560 g 100% @ Saute until browned, about 12 min.
(from about
six ears)
Unsalted butter 150 g 27%
Lard lOOg 18%
Eggs, blended lOOg 18% @ Combine in blender with cooked corn, and puree
Heavy cream 100 g 18% until smooth.

There are many styles of corn Whole milk 50 g 10%

bread across the United States. This Flour 150g 27% (D Mix together.
version is nontraditional but has an Isomalt 140 g 25% @ Fold into corn cream mixture.
amazing flavor and texture. Sieving
Cornmeal lOOg 18% ® Transferto floured and grease loaf mold, filling half
out the kernel skins is a nice, but
Sugar 50 g 10% full.
optional, refinement.
Baking powder 3.2 g 0.5% ® Bake in 175 °C / 350 °F oven forlO min, and then
reduce oven temperature to 130 °C / 265 °F and bake
Baking soda 1.75 g 0.3%
to core temperature of 88 °C/190 °F, about 20 min.
Thyme leaves, chopped to taste
@ Rest at room temperature for 5 min.
® Unmold, and slice to desired thickness.

@ Serve warm ortoasted with bacon jam (see page 304).

from page 5-76

CORN CUSTARD inspired by DAVID KINCH Yields340g(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Frozen organic sweet yellow 500 g 500% ©Juice corn, preferably with Champion-style
corn, thawed juicer (see page 2-332), reserving 100 g juice.
Corn juice, from above lOOg 100% @ Blend starch and salt into cold juice to distribute
Cornstarch 4% evenly.
4g
Salt 1.7% ® Pour25 g of juice in layer 1 cm /Yb in deep into
l-7g
each offour molds.
For a tender starch custard, a 9%
ratio of cornstarch to liquid seems @ Steam at 88 °C /190 °F until custards are just set,
to be ideal. The percentage of starch about 30 min.
in fresh corn varies dramatically— ® Cool completely.
this recipe assumes that the corn Fava beans, peeled 50 g 50% ® Vacuum seal in one even layer.
juice itself contains 5% starch. You
Olive oil 8g 8% @ Cook sous vide in 75 °C /167 °F bath for 25 min.
can test the recipe using a small
amount of your corn juice, and ® Remove from bag.

adjust the quantity of cornstarch Fresh sweet peas, shucked 50 g 50% @ Vacuum seal in one even layer.
to achieve the texture you prefer. Olive oil 8% ® Cook sous vide in 70 "C/ 158 °F bath for 18 min.
8g
@ Remove from bag.

Sous vide vegetable jus 70 g 70% @ Combine while bringingto simmer.

see page 36
Tomato water 30 g 30%
In this interpretation of David
see page 40
Kinch's Corn Pudding, we have
Unsalted butter, cubed 35 g 35% @ Blend into simmering liquid until fully emulsified.
presented the typical flavors of
(use olive oil if serving cold) @ Remove from heat.
a late summersuccotash. The
accompaniments can be varied Anise hyssop, fine julienne 5g 5% ® Whisk into warm buttersauce.
seasonally, but the custard can ® Steep for 3 min, and strain.
be made year-round with good
Lime juice to taste @ Season sauce.
quality frozen corn.
Salt to taste @ Fold in warm beans and peas.
® Reheat custards, and garnish with sauce.

@ Finish with hyssop blossoms, if available.

from page 4-122

256 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

PEANUT "TOFU" INSPIRED BY YOSHIHIRO MURATA Yields 550 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 400 g 100% @ Combine in pot.
Coconut milk 50 g 12.5% @ Stir until palm sugar is completely dissolved.
Fish sauce 25 g 6.25%
Palm sugar lOg 2.5%
Peanut butter (smooth) 50 g 12.5% @ Blend into mixture.
Kuzu starch 42.5 g 10.6% @ Add to mixture, blending until starch is
(8%)* completely dispersed.
@ Pass through fine sieve.
© Simmerfor20 min until thick.
Salt to taste @ Season mixture.
This recipe makes a typical Asian
® Pour quickly into silicone molds.
peanut sauce, which is then set
@ Refrigerate until set, about 12 h. into a gel by using Kuzu starch.
Tom yum broth 200 g 50% @ Bring broth to simmer. The result isn't true tofu, but it has
see page 18 a tofu-like texture.
® Transfer tofu to bowl, and garnish with scallions
Scallions, shredded as needed and warm broth.
from page4122 *(% of totalweight offirstfive ingredients)

GELS 257
IDIAZABALGNOCCHI ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ YieldsSOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cheese water (made with 130 g 100% @ Blend together.
Idiazabal)
see page 20
(D Vacuum seal.

Kuzu root starch 25%

(D Cook in 95 °C/ 203 °F bath forV/2 h to create starch base.
32 g
(18%)*
Idiazabal cheese (or other 50 g 38% @ Blend into starch base over medium heat until fully incorporated.
semifirm cheese such as ® Transfer dough to piping bag.
Pecorino), grated
® Extrude directly into ice water; cut equally sized dumplings with scissors as dough is
Salt 2.5g 2% extruded.
Ham broth 260 g 200% @ Heat broth.
see page 16
® Stir in gnocchi to warm through.
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste @ Garnish.
Perilla (red and green), leaves as needed
Lemon balm, leaves as needed
Micro scallion greens as needed
from page 4-123 *{% of total weight of water and cheese)

EVERYTHING BAGEL BROTH Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato juice 200 g 100% @ Combine juices.
Cucumberjuice 50 g 25%
Red onion juice 30 g 15%
Bagels, toasted until golden 50 g 25% (D Combine with juice mixture.
This broth and the squid ink on the
and finely ground @ Vacuum seal.
previous page are both examples of
Toasted sesame seeds 7g 3.5% ® Infuse in refrigerator for 24 h. fluid gels (see page 285).
Dried onion flakes 5g 2.5% ©Centrifuge at 27,500^ fori h.
Black poppy seeds 3g 1.5% ® Measure 200 g of clear broth.
Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.6 g 0.3% @ Dry blend together.
Low-acyl gellan 0.2 g 0.1%
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)

Infused bagel broth. 200 g 100% ® Bring broth to room temperature.

from above @ Add gellan mixture to broth, and shear until gellain is fully dispersed.
Red wine vinegar to taste @ Season broth, and refrigerate.
Salt to taste
from page 4130

258 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

DILLSPHERES Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Low-acyl gellan 1.6g 0.64% @ Dry blend.

(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand) (0.48%)*

Sodium 0.4 g 0.16%

hexametaphosphate (0.12%)*

Dill sprigs 130 g 52% @ Blanch dill sprigs in boiling water until tender, about 2 min.

Deionized water 150 g 60% @ Cool quickly, drain, and puree until smooth with deionized water.
@ Pass mixture through fine sieve, and measure 85 g for recipe.

Water 250 g 100% © Disperse gellan blend in dill puree. Bringto simmer while shearing, and cool completely.

Dill puree, from above 85 g 34% © Transfer mixture to squeeze bottle with 0.4 mm //b in tip.
© Pipe small droplets into liquid nitrogen to freeze.
© Drain frozen spheres, and reserve.

Celeryjuice, clarified 500 g 200% @ Whisk together until fully dissolved to make setting bath.

Calcium gluconate 30 g 12% ©Drop frozen spheres into setting bath, and allow skin to form for 2 min.
(6%)** ® Drain set spheres, and transfer to fresh water bath to rinse.
Citric acid 0-4 g 0.16% @ Drain once more, and hold in fresh water bath until ready to serve.
(0.08%)**
from page 4-130 *(% of total weight of water and dill puree)
**(% of total weight of celery juice)

SQUID INK FLUID GEL Yields 140 g (400 g with other components)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

Water lOOg 100% @ Blend until smooth.

Capers, brined 15%

Squid ink lOg 10%

Champagne vinegar to taste @ Season squid ink mixture.

Salt to taste
Low-acyl gellan 0.5 g 0.5% @ Dry blend, and disperse in squid ink mixture.
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand) (0.4%)* @ Boil mixture fori min to fully hydrate.
Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.125 g 0.125% © Pour into desired container, and refrigerate until set,
(0.1%)* about 5 min.
© Puree squid ink gel to fluid gel, transferto squeeze
bottle, and reserve.

Olive oil lOg 10% @ Whiskto make black pepper oil.

Black pepper essential oil Ig 1%

Brominated vegetable oil 0.1 g 0.1%

(weighting agent) (1%)**

Bagel broth 200 g 200% © Dividecold broth evenly among four bowls.
see previous page
Dill spheres lOOg 100% ® Spoon individually into each bowl.
see above
Tobiko roe, washed in aquavit 50 g 50%

Chives, minced as desired

Dill tips as desired

Squid ink fluid gel, from above 40 g 40% © Stir contents gently to evenly distribute roe, spheres, and
herbs. Dripsomesquidinkfluidgeland black pepper
oil into consomme, and stir once, gently, to create
suspended black streaks and oil droplets.

from page 4-131 *(% of total weight of first three ingredients)

**(% of total weight of olive oil)

GELS 259
COLD GELS

@ Select a texture and firmness. Possibilities range from brittle to rubbery, ©Dry blend the gelling agents, and disperse them into the cold flavorful
and from very tender to very firm. liquid.
@ Choose the gelling agents. The table below offers at least two options for @ Hydrate fully. Blend while heating to ensure the gelling agents are evenly
each texture. Many of the formulas use a mixture of two or more gelling distributed during hydration. The table lists appropriate hydration times
agents. and temperatures.
@ Measure the gelling agents. Quantities are given relative to the weight © Cast the gel into a mold. For detailed instructions, see page 4-132.
of the liquid, which is set to 100%. For example, use 8.5 g of 160 Bloom
gelatin for every 1 kg of wine to make a tender, elastic wine gel.

Best Bets for Cold Gels

Hydrate
Texture Firmness Gelling agents (scaling)* (min) {°C) (°F) Cast or mold
elastic very tender 160 Bloom gelatin 0.75% 5 60 140 cast directly into serving

kappa carrageenan 0.1% 3 vessel

85 185
iota carrageenan 0.1%

high-acyl gellan 0.20% 3 95 203

kappa carrageenan 0.05%

tender 160 Bloom gelatin 0.85% 25 60 140 pour directly into serving

iota carrageenan 0.20% 3 185 vessel and mold; cutting

85
not recommended
kappa carrageenan 0.15%

firm locust bean gum 0.15% 3 95 203 best molded;

agar 0.10% cut with care

xanthan gum 0.20%

160 Bloom gelatin 1% 25 60 140

LM pectin 2% 3 100 212

calcium gluconate 1%

iota carrageenan 0.25% 3 85 185

kappa carrageenan 0.25%

very firm 160 Bloom gelatin 1.5% 25 60 140 best suited for

1 cuttingand shaping
sucrose 65% 110 230

HM pectin 1.75%

citric ortartaric acid 1.5%

brittle firm low-acyl gellan 0.25% 3 95 203

high-acyl gellan 0.15%

agar 0.35% 3 95 203

locust bean gum 0.4% 3 85 185

kappa carrageenan 0.2%

very firm agar 0.5% 3 95 203

low-acyl gellan 0.35% 3 95 203

from page 4-140 *(% of total weight of all liquids)

260 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SALT GEL Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Distilled water, cold 400 g 100% @ Disperse salt and agar in water.
The salt gel can be grated and used
Salt 40 g 10% @ Bringto boil, and hold for2 min while stirring to season any dish in which you
Agar 12g 3% to hydrate. want salt crystals that will not
@ Cast in desired mold. dissolve.

@ Refrigerate until set, about 10 min. Grate over food as

seasoning.
from page 5-9

See
Note Example use page
keep cold; softens rapidly at room temperature coating gelees, layered tender jellies
highly stable when used with dairy liquids set yogurt

opaque; not suitable for consomme gels eggless creme brulee

firmness of gel increases for 24 h cauliflower panna cotta 263

works well with dairy liquids eggless custard/flan

texture very similar to that of gelatin chili pearls 265

but doesn't melt in the mouth as gelatin does

tenderize by tempering at room temperature firm panna cotta

firm texture develops when made with liquid of 18 °Brix savory pate de fruit

highly stable when used with dairy liquids cold terrines

tenderize by tempering at room temperature firm aspics, suspended solids

firm texture develops when made with liquid of 75 “Brix pate de fruit

highly stable firm aspics, suspended solids

works well with all liquids but tends to weep overtime

highly stable when used with dairy liquids sunny-side up egg 268

works well with all liquids buttends to weep overtime Parmesan spaghetti next

gel noodles

GELS 261
TWO-METER PARMESAN SPAGHETTO adapted from ferran adriA Yields 300 g (about 15 spaghetto strands)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Parmesan cheese, finely grated 450 g 150% @ Combine, and bringto boil.

Water 450 g 150% (D Remove from heat, and infuse fori min at room temperature.
@ Strain through fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and cool.

@ Measure 300 g of Parmesan water.

Parmesan water, from above 300g 100% ©Dry blend agar and locust bean gum, and disperse into cold Parmesan water.

Agar(Texturas brand) 2-1 g 0.7% ® Bringto boil, and hold for 2 min to fully hydrate. Skim any surface scum that appears.

Locust bean gum (POR/A2 Powder, 0.45 g 0.15% @ Fill Texturas-style syringe immediately with Parmesan water.
TIC Gums brand) ® Pipe quickly into coiled PVC tubes measuring 2 m / 6V2 ft long and 0.5 cm / ’A in. in
diameter; hold opposite end of each tube shut with one hand to prevent Parmesan
waterfrom shooting out.

® Seal tubes.
@ Submerge filled tubes in ice-water bath until set, about 2 min.

@ Shoot air from soda siphon into one end of each tube to extrude noodles.

Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste @ Season.

Flaky sea salt to taste Instead of topping pasta with a cheese sauce or
grated cheese, this recipe makes a "pasta" out
Lemon zest, finely grated to taste
of the cheese itself.
Warm Parmesan oil (or olive oil) to taste
see page 206
from page 4-143

LONG ISLAND ICED TEA GEL SHOT Yields 435 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 50 g 42%
® Disperse gelatin into cold water.
160 Bloom gelatin 6.75 g 5.6%
@ Heat until fully dissolved.
(1.6%)*
@ Remove mixture from heat, and let cool.

Cola 120 g 100%

@ Combine, and whisk in gelatin mixture.

® Pour into serving containers.

Lemon juice 60 g 50%
® Refrigerate until fully set, about 5 h.
Gin 40 g 33%

Rum 40 g 33%

Tequila 40 g 33%

Triple Sec 40 g 33%

Vodka 40 g 33%
from page 4141 *(% of total weight of all liquids)

SPICED WALNUT VINEGAR GEL Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White duck stock, cold 200 g 100% @ Disperse agar in stock.

see page 11
Agar 6g 3%
Salt 6g 3% ® Whisk into stock until dissolved.
Ascorbic acid Ig 0.5%

Sugar Ig 0.5%
Black peppercorns, 3g 1.5% @ Add to stock.
toasted and cracked @ Boil for 3 min to hydrate agar.
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 1% ® Strain through fine sieve directly into hemisphere nonstick mold.
and crushed
® Refrigerate until set. Crate over sous vide foie gras or other poultry as seasoning.
Sichuan peppercorns, 1.5g 0.75%
toasted and crushed
from page 5-111

262 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

CAULIFLOWER PANNA COTTA adapted from thomas keller Yields 850 g(aboun6 panna cottas)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Forthe panna cotta;
Water 500 g 200% ©Simmer over low heat fori h.

Cauliflower trimmings, thinly sliced 300 g 120% @ Strain through fine sieve.
@ Cool stock at room temperature, and reserve 400 g for later use.

Cauliflower stock, from above 350 g 140% @ Combine in pot.

Cauliflower florets, thinly sliced 250 g 100% © Simmer for 35 min or until florets are very tender.

Heavy cream 215 g 86% ® Puree until smooth.

Unsalted butter 30 g 12% @ Strain puree through fine sieve.

Salt to taste ® Season.

@ Measure 400 g of puree, and reserve.

Cauliflower stock, from above 50 g 20% @ Bloom gelatin in cooled stock.

160 Bloom gelatin 3.8 g 1.52%

(0.85%)*

Cauliflower puree, from above 400 g 160% @ Stir stock into warm puree until gelatin has dissolved, 3-5 min.

® Spoon into 16 small serving bowls or cups.

@ Refrigerate panna cotta for at least 4 h to set.

Forthe oyster juice gelee:

Water 28 g 11.2% @ Bloom gelatin in cold water in small, stainless steel bowl.

160 Bloom gelatin 0.2 g 0.08% @ Warm until dissolved.

(0.28%)**

Oyster juice (from shucked oysters) 42 g 17% ® Combine with gelatin mixture.

Black peppercorns, finely ground to taste ® Season mixture.

@ Refrigerate gelee for 30 min.
@ Strain.
@ Add about 6 g of oyster juice gelee to top of each panna cotta portion to coat.

@ Refrigerate until completely set, about 4 h.

Sturgeon caviar as needed @ Garnish.

from page4142 *(% of total weight of cauliflower stock and cauliflower puree used in panna cotta)
**{%of total weight of water and oyster juice used in oyster juice gelee)

GELS 263
KNOT FOIE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 300 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Foie gras torchon 225 g 100% ® Microwave or otherwise heat to 82 °C /180 °F. Torchon fat will melt, and terrine
see page 104 will split.
Konjacgum (Ticagel Konjac HV-D, 1.05 g 0.47% @ Dry blend.
TIC Gums brand)
@ Blend with warm foie gras.

Agar (Telephone brand) 0.6 g 0.27%

Xanthan gum 0.45 g 0.2%

Water 75 g 33.3% @ Heat water to 80 °C/176 °F.
Egg yolk lOg 4.4% © Blend in egg yolk.

© Blend in foie gras mixture until fully incorporated.

@ Pour into nonstick mold in layerl.5 cm/Vs in thick.
© Refrigerate foie gras until set, about 3 h.
Kimchi 250 g 111% ® Puree until smooth.
Xanthan gum 0.4 g 0.18% (© Transferto squeeze bottle.
White raisins 200 g 88% @ Combine.
Water 125 g 55.6% @ Refrigerate for 3 h to steep.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.4 g 0.17% ® Shear with raisins to form puree.
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste ® Season raisin puree.
® Transferto second squeeze bottle.
Cilantro Delfino springs or cilantro 30 g 13.3% ® Cut set foie gras into strips 8 mm by 12.5 cm / 'A in by 5 in.
stems, cut into! cm /Ye in batons
® Tie strips carefully into knots without breaking them.
Japanese puffed rice 50 g 22.2%
@ Divide knotted foie gras among four plates.
® Garnish with cilantro and puffed rice.

@ Dot plates with reserved kimchi and raisin purees.

from page 4-144

MADEIRA GELEE Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Madeira wine (dry) 200 g 100% d) Combine.
White chicken stock 150 g 75% d) Bringto simmer.
see page 6
@ Remove from heat.
Cassia bark, toasted and 2g 1% @ Add to hot stock, and infuse for5 min.
crushed
© Strain and cool.
Salt 4g 2% ® Season cooled liquid.
Low-acyl gellan 2.1 g 1.05% @ Blend into cooled liquid.
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco [0.6%)*
® Heat to 95 °C / 203 °F, and hold at temperature for at least 3 min to fully hydrate.
brand)
® Pour layer 0.5 cm / (Ain thick into nonstick mold.
Sodium citrate 0-7 g 0.35%
@ Refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
(0.2%)*
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.55 g ® Cut into cubes, and refrigerate until use. Use as seasoning for salads or hearty stews.
0.27%
LT100, CP Kelco brand) (0.15%)*

from page 5131 *{% of total weight of Madeira and chicken consomme)

264 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

CHILI PEARLS INSPIRED BY MICHAEL LAISKONIS Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

For chili oil:
Crapeseed oil 250 g 250% @ Combine.
Aleppo pepperflakes 30 g 30% @ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 70 “C/158 “F bath for 12 h.
Cayenne lOg 10% @ Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
Chili flakes 7g 7% @ Reserve 250 g of oil in bowl over ice.
For chili pearls:
Piquillo peppers, roasted and peeled 260 g 260% ® Blend.
(store-bought) ® Press through sieve.
Salt 6g 6% @ Measure 250 g of puree; keep hot.
Fresh red Thai chili peppers 2.5 g 2.5%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.3 g 0.3%
CP Kelco brand)
Red pepper puree, from above 250 g 250% ® Combine to form chili pearl base.
Water lOOg 100%
Salt 3g 3% ® Blend.

AgarfTexturas brand) 1g 1% ® Disperse into chili pearl base.

(0.18%)* ©Bring base to boil.
Locust bean gum (POR/A2 Powder, 0.4 g 0.4% @ Simmer for 2 min.
TIC Gums brand) (0.07%)*
©Transfer hot mixture quickly to syringe orfine-tipped squeeze bottle.

Chili oil, from above 250 g 250% @ Expel chili pearl base one drop at a time while still hot onto surface of cold chili
oil. Beads will set almost instantly.
© Serve immediately, or store beads in chili oil, refrigerated.
from page 4145 *(% of total weight offrstsix ingredients in chili pearls)

GUINNESS "pAtE DE FRUIT" Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sugar 150 g 150% ©Mix together in pot.

Isomalt lOOg 100%

HM pectin (Brown Ribbon HV, lOg 10%
Obipektin brand) (1.7%)*

Guinness beer 300 g 300% @ Combine with sugar and isomalt mixture, and cook to 110 °C / 230 °F.

Glucose syrup DE 40 50 g 50% @ Use refractometerto check soluble solids concentration, and cook until reduced to

Tartaric acid lOg 10% 75 “Brix.

® Cast hot mixture into mold.
® Cool at room temperature for 4 h to set gel.
® Chill in freezerfor5 min to simplify cutting.

@ Cut into 2 cm / % in squares.

Pretzels, ground 50 g 50% ® Blend togetherto fine powder.

Isomalt 20 g 20% ® Dust over cut pate de fruit.

N-Zorbit M (National Starch brand) 10 g 10% © Serve, or reserve dusted squares on nonstick sheets at room temperature.

from page 4145 *{% of total weight of sugar, isomalt, beer, and glucose)

GELS 265
 Yields 350 g
OLIVE OIL NOODLES inspired byjordi cruz

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tapioca Starch 100 g 62.5% @ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 80 °C/176 °F bath for 2 h.
Water 100 g 62.5% (D Measure 80 g of pregelatinized starch paste, and reserve warm.
Olive oil 160g 100% (D Heat to30°C/85°F.
@ Hold warm.
Salt 5g 3.1% © Dry blend to make gel powder.
300 Bloom gelatin 4g 2.5%
LM pectin 2g 1.25%
(Cenupectin LM 104 AS,
CP Kelco brand)
Agar(Texturas brand) 0.7 g 0.44%
Mineral water 120 g 75% © Whisk gel powder into water.
© Bring mixture to boil.
Pregelatinized starch paste, 80 g 50% © Blend starch paste into warm gel solution.
from above ® Remove from heat, and blend by hand over ice until completely cool and fluid.
@ Slowly blend in warmed olive oil until fully emulsified to form olive oil noodle base.
Olive oil, chilled but still fluid as needed ® Transfer noodle base to pastry bag.
@ Extrude noodles 3 mm / % in thick into chilled olive oil bath.
® Refrigerate, and allow to set for at least for 4 h before serving.
@ Garnish with flaky salt and herbs as desired.
from page 4446

SEA URCHIN TOEU, TOKYO NEGI, SESAME, PONZU Yields400g{about8servings)

INSPIRED BY YOSH IHIRO MURATA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Hon dashi, cold 200 g 100% © Disperse gelatin and agar in dashi.
see page 15
@ Boil for 3 min to fully hydrate agar.
160 Bloom gelatin 3.6 g 1.8%
*{0.9%)
Agar 0.4 g 0.2%
*(0.1%)
Sea urchin tongues 200 g 100% @ Blend into hot dashi.

@ Cast immediately into eight small individual bowls to create layer 3 cm /1% in thick.
© Refrigerate until tofu is fully set, at least 5 h, before serving.
Tokyo negi, thinly sliced 40 g 20% © Toss negi with yuzu juice and toasted sesame oil, and arrange on top of tofu.

Sous vide ponzu 80 g 40% © Pour ponzu around tofu.

see page 22
Yuzu juice 8g 4%
Toasted sesame oil 5g 2.5
from page 5-202 *(% of total iveight ofhon dashi and sea urchin tongues)

266 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

OLIVE OIL GUMMY WORMS Yields 445 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

200 Bloom gelatin 20 g 27% @ Disperse gelatin into cold water.

Water 40 g 53% @ Vacuum seal gelatin mixture.

@ Hydrate in 60 °C/140 °F bath for30 min.
@ Set aside gelatin mixture.

Water llOg 147% © Combine.

Isomalt lOOg 133% ® Bring to boil.

Clear honey 55 g 73% @ Whisk in gelatin mixture.

Glucose syrup DE 40 25 g 33%

Cum arable 20 g 27%

Olive oil 75 g 100% © Whisk in; emulsify fully to form gummy worm base.

Vanilla seeds and pulp Ig 1.3% @ Whisk into gummy worm base.

Thyme essential oil 0.1 g 0.13% @ Cast base into worm-shaped molds.

® Cool.
@ Refrigerate for at least 4 h to set.
@ Remove from molds.

from page 4-147

SHERRY GEL CUBE Yields 215 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 50 g 33% ® Steep blossoms in 70 °C/158 °F water for 10 min.

Chamomile blossoms 15 g 10% © Strain and cool.

Agar 2g 1.3% © Disperse agar in cooled chamomile tea.

Sherry vinegar 150 g 100% ©Mix into chamomile tea, and bring to boil.
© Pour quickly through fine sieve into desired mold, and set at room temperature for5 min.
® Cut into 3 mm / >8 in cubes, and refrigerate until use. Use as seasoning for cold cuts and salad.

from page 5-270

GELS 267
SUNNY-SIDE UP "EGGS" adapted from wylie dufresne Yields 800 g (about 25 "eggs")

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Forthe eggwFiites:
Coconut milk 500 g 100% @ Combine.
Sugar 20 g 4% (D Steep milk mixture for 20 min in refrigerator.
Cardamom, cracked 9g 1.8% @ Strain.
Guar gum (8/22A Powder, TIC 0.8 g 0.16% @ Blend to fully incorporate into milk mixture.
Gums brand) © Heatto80°C/176°F.
Locust bean gum 0.8 g 0.16% © Pour20 g of mixture directly from pot onto each of 25 plates to create egg white
(POR/A2 Powder, TIC Gums brand) shapes. Work quickly; gel mixture sets rapidly.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T) 0.8 g 0.16% © Refrigerate "egg" whites.
Forthe egg yolks:
Carrot juice 250 g 50% © Blend until fully incorporated.
(from about
500 g of carrots)
Glucose syrup DE 40 25 g 5%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T) 1.5 g 0.3%
Smoked maple syrup to taste © Season juice mixture.
Salt to taste @ Pour into silicone hemisphere molds 5 cm / 2 in. in diameter.
® Freeze completely, about 2 h, to form yolks.
Forassembly:
Water 250 g 50% @ Blend in pot.
Kappa carrageenan (Genugel Ig 0.2% @ Heat gum mixture to 80 °C/ 180 °F.
CHP2, CP Kelco brand) @ Cool to 45 "C/ 113 °F, and hold at temperature.
Locust bean gum Ig 0.2% @ Remove frozen yolks from molds with toothpick or skewer.
(POR/A2 Powder, TIC Gums brand)
® Dip yolks into cooled gum mixture.
Potassium chloride 0.12 g 0.024%
@ Place one coated yolk in center of each "egg" white.
@ Allow yolks to thaw at least 30 min before serving.
Black pepper, coarsely ground to taste ® Season.
Coarse salt to taste
Olive oil to taste
from page 4148

268 VOLUME KITCHEN MANUAL

COATING GELS

® Select a temperature and texture. If the food will be coated hot, fewer 0.7 g of low-acyl gellan and 0,2 g of high-acyl gellan for every 100 g
options are available, but the table Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels below of licorice infusion.
presents good formulas that yield textures ranging from elastic and ® Disperse the gelling agents in the liquid.
tender to brittle and firm,
® Flydrate fully. Hydration times and temperatures are indicated
@ Choose the gelling agent. We give several options for hot and cold in the table.
coatinggels in the table offormulas. Some options use a mixture oftwo
® Apply the coating. Control the temperature of the gel to maintain
or more gelling agents,
a barely liquid consistency while dippingthefood orbrushingon the
@ Measure and mix the gelling agents. Set the weight of the liquid to 100%. coating.
For example, to make a smooth licorice coating gel for cold food, use

Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels

Hydrate See
Temperature Texture Firmness Gelling agent (scaling)* (°C) (°F) (min) Coat Example use page
cold elastic tender 160 Bloom gelatin 2.3% 60 140 5 cool over ice until traditional chaudfroid.

xanthan gum 0.2% syrupy, about 15 min, sous vide chicken breast
before applying to food with truffle jus coating,
firm 160 Bloom gelatin 3% 60 140 5
cured salmon loin with
watercress juice coating

brittle tender iota carrageenan 0.45% 75 167 3 keep gel base warm crimini in amber 271

kappa carrageenan 0,35% while applying coating;

the gel sets quickly

hot or cold elastic tender sorbitol 3.00% 95 203 3 chill food with liquid modern chaud-chaud,

0.60% nitrogen before coating warm oysters with

agar
to get a thin covering seaweed vinegar gelee
xanthan gum 0.25%
low-acyl gellan 0.35% 95 203 3
xanthan gum 0.20%

firm sorbitol 2% 95 203 3 prechill food with liquid foie gras torchon with 272
nitrogen to coat thinly beet and hibiscus glaze
160 Bloom gelatin 1%
agar 1%

brittle firm low-acyl gellan 0.7% 95 203 3 dip food in bath of gel salmon with licorice 272

high-acyl gellan 0.2% solution to coat evenly

from page 4’151 *{set weight of liquid to 100%)

One problem with coatinggels is their tendency to slip off the surface rather
than coating it. A way to avoid this problem is to prepare the surface by
scoring or pricking it (see page 4-158). Another method to help adherence
is to get the surface very cold. Dousing it in liquid nitrogen helps with this.

GELS 269
 FOIE GRAS PARFAIT SPHERES Yields 600 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

Raw duck foie gras 425 g 100% © Cook sous vide in 57 °C /135 °F bath to core temperature of 56 °C/133 °F, about 20 min.
White duck Stock 170 g 40% @ Disperse gelatin in small amount of cold stock, and heat until fully dissolved.
see page 6
@ Whisk gelatin mixture into remaining stock.
160 Bloom gelatin lOg 2.4%
@ Blend warm foie gras with gelatin mixture and remaining ingredients.
Insta Cure No. 1 6g 1.4%
© Pipe 12 g of mixture into each of36 silicone hemisphere molds, each 2.5 cm /1 in. in
Salt 6g 1.4%
diameter.
Sugar 3g 0.7%
@ Refrigerate for at least 4 h to set.

@ If using kernel "pit," scoop 1 cm /% in hemisphere from center of molded foie gras.
Hazelnuts or apricot kernels, 18 whole ® Melt flat surface of each hemisphere with blowtorch, and press kernel into center divot.
roasted and peeled (optional)
©Join pairs of hemispheres to form spheres.

@ Insert 10 cm / 4 in skewer into each foie gras sphere, and freeze.

® Using metal skewer dipped in very hot water, indent top of each sphere to mimic dimple
that holds stem, and sculpt side of sphere to mimic natural crevasse of cherry.

@ Dip sphere into hot water and then into liquid nitrogen. Refrigerate until cool.
from page 4152

FOIE GRAS CHERRIES Yields 18 cherries

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sourcherryjuice 150 g 100% © Disperse gellan into juice, and bring to boil.
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 1.5g 1% @ Pourliquid into beakerset in ice-water bath.
CP Kelco brand) {0.26%y
@ Blend mixture with immersion blender as itsets to form sour cherry fluid gel.
Cherry pickling brine 85 g 57% ® Disperse gelatin in small amount of brine.
see page 180
© Heat mixture until gelatin is fully dissolved.
160 Bloom gelatin 14g 9.3%
® Blend in remaining ingredients.
(2.4%)*
Black cherry puree @ Whisk in sour cherry fluid gel.
200 g 133%
Amarena cherry syrup © Vacuum seal to remove accumulated air bubbles.
150 g 100%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.6 g 0.4%
CP Kelco brand) (0.1%)*
Foie gras parfait spheres, 18 spheres ® Dip frozen foie gras spheres into cherry liquid, coating evenly.
see above
@ Refrigerate until set, about 1 h. To serve, temper at room temperature for 10 min.
from page 4-153 *(% of total weight ofall other ingredients exceptfoie gras)

HALIBUT CHEEK GEL BASE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White fish stock 400 g 100% © Reduce stock to 150 g.
see page 6
Malt vinegar 30 g 7.5% © Mix with reduced stock.
Salt 4g 1% © Cool stock completely.
Fish stock mixture, 150 g 37.5% © Disperse gellans and sodium citrate in cold stock.
from above
© Heat to 95 °C/ 203 °F, and hold at temperature for
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.75 g 0.19% 3 min to fully hydrate.
F, CP Kelco brand) (0.5%)*
® Keep gel mixture above 65 °C/149 °F to prevent it
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.36 g 0.1% from gelling prematurely.
moo, CP Kelco brand) (0.25%)*
Sodium citrate 0.36 g 0.1%
(0.25%)*
Halibut cheeks, 400 g 100% ©Dip skewered cheeks into hot gelled stock three
from above times, allowing gel to set between dips.

© Place coated cheeks on silicone baking mat.

© Refrigerate for 1 h to cool and set.

@ Vacuum seal and cook sous vide in 49 °C / 120 °F bath

to core temperature of 48 °C / 118 °F, about 35 min.
from page 5-144 *(% of total weight of reduced fish stock)

270
VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL
CRIMINI IN AMBER inspired by ferran adriA Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Crimini mushrooms, stem on, 50 g 100% @ Clean.
peeled
(D Cut into at least 20 slices 1 mm /J^iin thick.
@ Cover with damp paper towel, and refrigerate.
Dried porcini 30 g 60% @ Rinse.
® Soakfor5 min.
® Strain.
Water 400 g 800% @ Add to rinsed and soaked porcinis.
® SimmerforlO min.
Salt 7.5 g 15% ® Mix into porcini mixture.
Kombu 10% @ Simmerfor 10 min.
Koji-Aji (Ajinomoto brand) 2g 4%
Bonito flakes 1g 2% @ Add to porcini mixture.
@ Remove from heat.
@ Infuse for 1 min.
@ Strain; measure 200 g of stock.
lota carrageenan (Texturas brand) 0.9 g 1.8% @ Combine with reserved porcini stock.
(0.45%)* @ Bringto boil to dissolve completely.
Kappa carrageenan (Texturas 0.7g 1.4% @ Remove from heat.
brand) (0.35%)*
@ Skim off any accumulated foam.
® Dip chilled crimini slices in hot gel mixture; coatslices completely.
@ Transfer to nonstick baking sheet or lightly oiled plastic wrap; ensure slices remain
coated.
Aged Parmesan, small dice 20 pieces @ Garnish gel-encased crimini slices.
Breakfast radisb, small dice 20 pieces
Pickled dried fig, small dice 20 pieces
see page 177
Pressure-cooked sesame seeds 30 g 60% @ Dab evenly on finished crimini.
see page 151
from page 4-154 *(% of total weightofreserved porcini stock)

GELS 271
SALMON POACHED IN LICORICE adapted from heston blumenthal Yields 280 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Distilled water 2.4 kg 150% ® Combine while bringingto simmer.
Hard, glassy black licorice 125 g 7.8% @ Cool for 5 min.
sticks (store-bought), crushed (D Process mixture in food processorforS min oruntil licorice is fully dissolved.
into small pieces
@ Strain licorice stock through fine sieve.

® Reserve 1.6 kg of stock, refrigerated.

Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 11.2 g 0.7% ® Dry blend.
CP Kelco brand) {0.46%)*
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 3.2 g 0.2%
LT100, CP Kelco brand) {0.13%)*
Licorice stock, from above 1.6 kg 100% @ Disperse gellan gum mixture into cold stock.

® Heat mixture to 95 °C/ 203 °F until gellans are hydrated, about 2 min.
@ Skim any foam from surface using small sieve.
Salmon fillet, skinned and cut 200 g 12.5% @ Insert wooden skewer into side of each fish square and, holding skewer, dip squares
evenly into squares (foursquares, individually into stock.
50 geach) @ Place coated salmon on plates to cool until set, about 5 min.
©Dip fish into stock again to apply second coat.

® Transferfish to chilled tray lined with silicone mat.

@ Set at room temperature, about 5 min.

® Wrap each coated square tightly in plastic wrap.

® Vacuum seal individually, and cook sous vide in 44 °C / 111 °F bath to core temperature
of 43 °C /109 °F, about 25 min.
from page 4-155 *{% of total weight of licorice stock)

EOIE GRAS TORCHON WITH BEET AND HIBISCUS GLAZE Yieidseoog

ADAPTED FROM PAUL LIEBRANDT

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beet juice 800 g 320% ® Reduce over medium heat until syrupy, about 30 min.
see page 2-336 (from 1 kg of @ Cool at room temperature.
beets, about
@ Measure 250 g of reduced juice.
five large)
Reduced beet juice, from above 250 g 100% @ Bringjuice to boil, and remove from heat. Add hibiscus and orange peel, and
Dried hibiscus flowers 20 g 8% steep at room temperature for 15 min.

Dried orange peel 2% © Strain, and cool completely.

5g
Sorbitol 12.5 g 5% ® Combine, and disperse in infused juice.
160 Bloom gelatin 5g 2% @ Boil for2 min to fully hydrate, and keep warm.
Agar(Texturas brand) 2g 0.8%
Salt to taste ® Season.

® Cool mixture to 65 °C /149 °F, and hold at temperature.

Foie gras torchon 500 g 200% ® Center foie gras terrine on cooling rack.
see pagel04
® Prick evenly across surface with fine skewer so that gel will adhere more easily.
Liquid nitrogen as needed
@ Ladle over liquid nitrogen to freeze terrine surface.

® Pour warm glaze directly from pot over terrine in one fluid motion to coat evenly;
repeat.

@ Refrigerate glazed terrine for at least 8 h before serving. Pigment from glaze will
permeate terrine.
from page 4-158

This elegant preparation is a Modernist version of the classic foie gras

terrine in aspic. Here, the hibiscus adds both flavor and color, some of
which penetrates the foie gras.

272 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

HALIBUT IN VERBENA BUBBLE inspired bymarcveyrat Yields 180 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Halibut fillet, skinless 100 g 100% ® Cut into four equal rectangles.
@ Set aside.
Coconut cream (store-bought) lOOg 100% @ Combine.
240 Bloom gelatin 2g 2% @ Heat to dissolve gelatin.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.5 g 0.5% @ Pour in layer 1 mm /'/32 in thick into rectangular mold on baking sheet lined with
CP Kelco brand) plastic wrap.
® Refrigerate for 2 h to set.
@ Place halibut rectangle on coconut gel; align width of rectangle with edge of gel
sheet.
® Cut long rectangle of gel equal in width to halibut rectangle and long enough to
wrap completely around fish.
® Roll halibut tightly in longgel rectangle.
@ Cut and roll gel around remaining halibut portions.

For lemon verbena encasement:

Water 400 g 400% @ Blanch mint leaves for 2 min in boiling water.

Lemongrass, thinly sliced 40 g 40% @ Cool quickly in ice water.

Mint leaves 20 g 20% @ Blend blanched mint with remaining ingredients until smooth.

Lemon verbena essential oil 0.2 g 0.2% @ Strain.

Agar(Texturas brand) lOg 10% @ Disperse in mint mixture.

(2.5%)* ® Heat to 95 °C/ 203 °F for 3 min to hydrate.
Sorbitol 2g 2% @ Remove from heat, and pour enough gel mixture to make layer 2 mm /'/e in thick in
(0.5%)* bottom of four deep rectangular molds that are larger than halibut rectangles.

@ Let gel set in molds for 2 min.

@ Place rolled halibut on top of gel in each mold.
@ Pour remaining gel mixture quickly over each rolled halibut to form airtight seal
around fish.
@ Refrigerate until set, about 10 min.

Forfish sauce condiment:

Fish sauce 30 g 30% @ Blend together until dissolved, and reserve.

Honey 20 g 20% @ Remove encased halibut portions from molds.

Lime juice 20 g 20% @ Vacuum seal portions together.

Rice vinegar lOg 10% @ Cook sous vide in 48 °C/ 118 °F bath or steam oven to core temperature of 47 °C/

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.15 g 0.15% 117 °F, about 25 min.

CP Kelco brand) @ Transfer portions from bag to plates.

@ To serve, break verbena gel casing at table to reveal steamed fish and liquefied
coconut gel. Remove verbena gel casing, and discard.
@ Serve with fish sauce condiment.

from page 4-156 *{% of total weight of water in verbena bubble encasement)

The verbena gel encasement is Marc Veyrat used a hot gel casing as a cooking vessel, in the same way Be sure to work quickly with the hot
intended only as an aromatic that parchment, salt, clay, and pig bladders have been used in the past. The gel because it begins to set below
cooking vessel forthe fish; it should original version of this dish was a piece of turbot encased in lemongrass with 45 °C/113 “F. Warmingthe ladle will
not be consumed. It imbues the white chocolate. Veyrat's insight presents a huge range of possibilities, both prevent the gel from setting on the
fish with the scent of the essential aesthetic and aromatic, for the Modernist chef Imagine a steamed pigeon surface of the ladle.
oil and makes for a dramatic encased with suspended rose petals in a clear, rose-scented gel. Or a black
presentation. gel that is broken open at the table to reveal a suspended whole egg.

The coconut cream is solidified with gelatin for assembly but melts into a
liquid when served hot.

GELS 273
HOT GELS

® Select a texture. Possibilities range from tender to firm and from elastic @ Dry blend the gelling agents, and disperse them in the flavorful liquid.
to brittle. ® Hydrate fully. Blend while heating to ensure that the gelling agents are
@ Choose the gelling agents. The table Best Bets for Hot Cels below gives at evenly distributed during hydration. Usually 2-3 min at 95 °C / 203 °F is
least two options for each texture. Most formulas use a mixture of two or sufficient to hydrate the gelling agents.
more gelling agents.
® Cast. See the table for casting directions and references to example
@ Scale and mix the gelling agents. All quantities indicated in the table are recipes. See page 4-132 for illustrated, step-by-step instructions.
proportional to the weight of the puree or juice. For example, to make a
brittle, firm gel with consomme, use 0.5 g of agar for every 100 g of Most hot gels can also be served cold. Methycellulose gels are the one
consomme. exception: they set when hot and melt when cold—see page 4-170.

Best Bets for Hot Gels

Hydrate
Texture Gelling agents (scaling)* (°C) TF) Cast or mold Note Example See page
tender, xanthan gum 0.25% 95 203 cast directly into bone marrow-like texture warm aspic 277

very elastic low-acyl gellan 0.10% serving vessel

sorbitol 5.00% 95 203 cast directly into opaque, so not suited warm panna cotta.

high-acyl gellan 0.20% serving vessel to clear gels eggless creme

brulee
agar 0.10%

high-acyl gellan 0.20% 95 203 cast directly into creamy mouthfeel warm panna cotta.
xanthan gum 0.15% serving vessel eggless creme
low-acyl gellan 0.10% brulee

tender, xanthan gum 0.15% 95 203 cast into serving vessel

locust bean gum 0.15% or mold
elastic
low-acyl gellan 0.10%
high-acyl gellan 0.20% 95 203 cast into serving vessel eggless flan, custard

low-acyl gellan 0.10% or mold

firm, elastic locust bean gum 0.25% 85 185 best molded; cut best with nondairy gels; gel noodles

agar 0.20% with care add 5% sorbitol fortender

texture
high-acyl gellan 0.25% 85 185 best molded; cut pate de fruit-like texture hot eggless flan

low-acyl gellan 0.20% with care

xanthan gum 0.10%

firm. agar 0.4% 85 185 best suited for cutting hot terrine

semibrittle guargum 0.2% and shaping

high-acyl gellan 0.40% 95 203 best suited for cutting

agar 0.25% and shaping

very firm. agar 0.5% 85 185 best suited for cutting tends to weep overtime gel seasoning 5-267
brittle and shaping cubes
low-acyl gellan 0.30% 95 203 best suited for cutting gel seasoning

high-acyl gellan 0.15% and shaping cubes

from page 4-160 *(set weight of liquid to 100%)

274 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 AGARCARBONARA ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA
Yields ^ kg (about 20 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SOAI INO i
Consomme madrilene 500 g 100% ® Blend, and bringto boil.
see page 42
@ Cast onto tray measuring 60 cm by 40 cm /24 in by 16 in to form layer 1 mm /
Agar(Texturas brand) 3g 0.6% 'Ai in thick.
Focust bean gum (POR/A2 Powder, 1.25 g 0.25% @ Refrigerate for 2 h.
TIC Gums brand)
® Cut into noodles 2 mm / '/is in wide.
© Arrange in even layer on silicone mat.
Unsalted butter, cut into small cubes lOOg 20% © Vacuum seal.
Bacon scraps 50 g 10% @ Cook sous vide in 70 °C /158 °F bath for 2 h.
© Strain, and reserve butter.
Heavy cream 250 g 50% © Reduce cream by half over medium heat.
® Reserve in squeeze bottle.
Egg yolks, pasteurized 40 g 8% ® Strain.
see page 4-78
@ Reserve in squeeze bottle.
Smoked bacon, cut into 80 g 16% ® Heat noodles in 200 °C/390 °F oven until just warmed through, about 4 min.
3 mm / Ya in cubes
® Warm bacon cubes in reserved bacon-infused butter over medium heat,
about 4 min.

® Divide noodles equally among eight plates.

Parmigiano Reggiano, cut into lOOg 20% @ Garnish each serving with bacon and Parmesan cubes, reduced cream
5 mm / Va in cubes egg yolks, and truffle oil.
Truffle oil lOg 2%
from page 4-161

GRUYERE CUSTARD Yields 670 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk 250 g 250% @ Combine.
Heavy cream 75 g 75% (D Bringto simmer.
Sodium citrate 4.7g 4.7%
(0.7%)*
Cruyere cheese, grated lOOg 100% ® Blend into milk mixture, stirring until melted and smooth.
@ Reserve.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 50 g 50% © Saute onions until tender, about 30 min.
Unsalted butter 20 g 20% @ Cool.

@ Hand-blend into reserved cheese mixture.

® Pass throu gh fine sieve.
® Cool com|oletely.
Onion stock, cold 175 g 175% ® Disperse carrageenans into stock.
see page 11
® Blend with cooled cheese mixture.
lota carrageenan 3.35 g 3.35%
@ Heat to 95 °C / 203 °F for 3 min to fully hydrate.
(0.5%)*
Kappa carrageenan 1.35 g 1.35%
(0.2%)*
Salt to taste ® Season warmed custard base.

@ Cast evenly into mold to create layer 2.5 cm / 1 in thick.

@ Refrigerate until set, about 10 min.

® Cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes, and refrigerate until use.

@ To serve, heat custard cubes in 70 °C/ 160 °F oven until just warmed through, about 8 min.

GELS 275
SHELLFISH CUSTARD homage to joel robuchon Yields 1.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Heavy cream 300 g 100% (i) Combine in pot.
Whole milk 140 g 47% (D Simmerfor5 min.
Mushroom jus 90 g 30% (D Remove from heat.
see page 37
Salt 5g 1.7%
Chervil, leaves 30 g 10% ® Add to warm milk, and infuse for 20 min at room temperature.
Tarragon, leaves 6g 2% ® Strain and cool.
Shellfish stock 280 g 93% ® Combine with cold milk mixture.
see page 6
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel LTIOO, 1.6g 0.53% @ Dry blend, and disperse into shellfish stock mixture.
CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)* ® Heat to 90 °C/194 ”F, and hold at temperature for 3 min.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, l-2g 0.4% ® Remove from heat.
CP Kelco brand) (0.15%)*
@ Cast into desired molds to make custards of about 80 g each.
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 0.57g 0.2%
CP Kelco brand) (0.07%)*
Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.4 g 0.14%
(0.05%)*
Cauliflowerfluid gel foam base 300 g 100% @ To serve, transfer cauliflower foam base to 1 1 siphon.
see page 326
@ Charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
@ Reheat custards, and warm siphon to 80 °C/ 176 °F.
Sea urchin lOOg 33% ® Garnish each custard with three tongues.
(24 tongues) @ Shake warmed siphon vigorously, and top each custard with cauliflower foam.
Coffee butter, melted 40 g 13.3% ® Drizzle over custards.
see page 350

from page 4-162 *{% of total weight offirstfour liquid ingredients)

BONE MARROW CUSTARD Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Joel Robuchon is one of the world's Veal marrowbone one foreshank ® Cut into four equal pieces, and reserve for casting
most influential chefs. His original (optional) bone custard. If not using bones, reserve other molds.
version of this dish consisted of Water 500 g 400% @ Soak marrow in waterforl2 h to remove blood.
a spoonful of oscietra caviartopped
Veal marrow 125 g 100% @ Drain.
with layers of delicate shellfish
gelee, cauliflower cream, and Whole milk, cold 125 g 100% ® Disperse gelatin in milk.
chlorophyl puree. It inspired many 160 Bloom gelatin 3.5 g 2.8% ® Vacuum seal with coffee beans.
interpretations, from Ferran Adria's (0.9%)*
® Cooksous vide in 75 ‘’C/167°F bath forlO min.
hot version of the original to Coffee beans 1.5g 1.2%
@ Strain coffee-infused milk, and reserve.
Thomas Keller's Cauliflower Panna
Cotta (see page 263). We created Salt 3g 2.4% ® Combine.
this dish in homage to Robuchon High-acyl gellan 0.55 g 0.44%
and to the creative lineage that has (Kelcogel LTIOO, CP Kelco (0.15%)*
followed it. brand)
Low-acyl gellan 0.375 g 0.3%
It can be hard to hydrate gellan (Kelcogel F, CP Kelco (0.1%)*
in a liquid that contains calcium. brand)
Fortunately, the calcium in milk
White veal stock, warmed 250 g 200% ® Disperse gel mixture into stock.
and cream is naturally sequestered. slightly
It poses no problem as long as see page 6 ® Blend stock with veal marrow, coffee-infused milk,
sufficient heat is used during and garlic confit.
Garlic confit, pureed 15 g 12%
hydration. When usinggellan with see page 176 ® Bring mixture to boil, and simmer for 3 min.
other liquids that contain calcium, ® Pour quickly into marrowbones or other molds.
a sequestrant may be necessary
® Cool until set, about 5 min.
(see page 4-129).
® Reheat bone marrow custard in 75 “C/ 165 °F combi
oven with 100% relative humidity for 8 min. If combi
_oven is unavailable, reheat in steamerforS min.
from page 5-63 *(% of total weight of whole milk and white veal stock)

276 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

BOEUF EN GELEE INSPIRED BY DANIEL BOULUD Yields 1.5 kg (eight portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Carrots, brunoise 50 g 5% © Saute together until tender, about 5 min.
Parsnips, brunoise 50 g 5% @ Cool.
Shallots, brunoise 50 g 5%
Neutral oil 15 g 1.5%
Oxtail meat, cooked sous vide 300 g 30% @ Fold into vegetable mixture.
and shredded
see page 90

Tomato confit, finely minced 40 g 4%

Grain mustard to taste @ Season meat and vegetable mixture.

Salt to taste © Divide into 50 g servings, and spoon evenly into bottom of eight small bowls.

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 2.5 g 0.25% © Blend.

CP Kelco brand)
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel f, 1.25 g 0.13%
CP Kelco brand)
Oxtail consomme 1 kg 100% @ Disperse gum mixture into cold consomme.
see page 46
© Heat to 95 °C/203 °F, and hold for 3 min.
© Pour hot gel into bowls of meat and vegetables until mixture is submerged 2.5 cm /
1 in below surface of gel.
® Refrigerate bowls.

Horseradish foam 120 g 12% ©To serve, reheat bowls in 70 °C/ 158 °F bath or steam oven until just warmed
see page 327 through, about 10 min.
fresh wasabi, peeled 20 g 2% © Garnish evenly with horseradish foam and grated fresh wasabi as desired.

from page 4163

GELS 277
HOT FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GELS

@ Prepare and puree the fruit or vegetable. The gels can also be made with ® Disperse the gelling agents into the cold juice or puree, and hydrate fully.
juice, but that approach yields a very different gel texture. A few minutes at 90 °C /194 °F is usually sufficient to hydrate the gelling
(D Find the acidity of the puree orjuice. Use the table of fruit and vegetable agents. Use a high-shear mixer, such as a blender, immersion blender,
acidities, or measure the pH directly by using a pH meter. or rotor-stator homogenizes You may need to add calcium when using
low-acyl gellan. While still hot, shear in calcium lactate or another
@ Select a texture. Possibilities range from brittle to very elastic and soft.
calcium salt after hydration, stirring well until dissolved. For more details
@ Choose the gelling agent. We give two options for each texture in the
on calcium salts, see page 4429.
table Best Bets for Hot Fruit Cels on the next page. Some options use
more than one agent. @ Cast into a mold, and then cut to size when set. Allow 5-10 min at room
temperature, or 2-4 min in the refrigerator, for the gel to set to moderate
©Mix the gelling agents. Set the weight of the puree orjuice to 100%,
firmness. The locust bean/xanthan gum formula will set after being
and measure each gelling agent proportionally. The amount of sodium
frozen and thawed. A methocellulose/gelatin gel will set when heated
hexa-metaphosphate, if any, varies accordingto the pH ofthe food.
to 90°C/194°F.
Dissolve it in the juice before adding the gellingagent or agents.

Fruit and Vegetable Acidities

Low acidity Medium acidity High acidity
(pH > 4.6) (pH) (pH) (pH 3-4.6) (pH) (pH<3) (pH)

artichoke 6 peas 6 apple 4.0 cherry 3

asparagus 6 persimmon 6 apricot 3.7 cranberry 3

avocado 7 pumpkin 7 blackberry 3.5 gooseberry 3

banana 5 radish 7 black currant 3.3 lemon 2

beans 6 red cabbage 6 blueberry 3.7 lime 3

beets 6 red onion 6 elderberry 3.8

bell pepper 5 russet potato 6 grape .3.8

broccoli 7 rutabaga 6 grapefruit 3.7

The acidity found in fruits and vegetables is
Brussels sprout 6 mushroom 7 greengage 3.4 the primary issue with making gels with them.
Calcium content can also be an issue, which is
button mushroom 7 spaghetti squash 6 guava 4.1
why, in general, we recommend using sodium
carrot 6 spinach 7 kiwi 3.6 hexametaphosphate as a sequestrant if gellan
is in the gel mixture. In some cases, however,
cauliflower 7 spring onion 6 mango 4.0 you may need to add extra calcium to gel (see
page 4429).
celery 6 sweet onion 6 mulberry 3.5

cucumber 6 sweet potato 7 nectarine 3.0

eggplant 6 taro 6 orange 3.9

We took pains to measure and calculate
fennel 6 tomato 5 passion fruit 3.5 the average pHs of these various fruits and
vegetables because this information is use¬
fig 6 turnip 6 peach 3.7
ful for far more than making hot fruit gels.
jicama 7 watermelon 5 pineapple 3.5 Whetheryou are seasoning broths and sauces,
creating brines and marinades, or making
leek 6 yellow squash 6 plum 3.6 preserves, pH plays a huge role in the final

lettuce 7 7 4.0 qualities ofthese preparations. Note thatthe

zucchini pomegranate
pH can vary with ripeness and variety, so you
lychee 6 quince 3.7 may wantto use a pH meterto measure it
yourself
melon 5 raspberry 3.3

napa cabbage 6 red currant 3.1

papaya 6 rhubarb 3.4

For more on the role of pFI in fruit and vegetables
parsnip 6 strawberry 3.8 see page 3-274.

pear 5 tangerine 4.1

For more on how to measure pFI. see page 2-316.
from page 4464

278 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

Best Bets for Hot Fruit Gels
Low acidity Medium acidity High acidity

Texture Gelling agent (scaling)* (scaling)* (scaling)*

brittle high-acyl gellan 0.30% 0.3% 0.3%

sodium hexametaphosphate 0.05% 0.1% 0.2%

agar 0.5% 0.5% 0.5%

semibrittle high-acyl gellan 0.20% 0.2% 0.2%

low-acyl gellan 0.10% 0.1% 0.1%

sodium hexametaphosphate 0.05% 0.1% 0.2% For details on how to disperse and hydrate

agar 0.4% 0.4% 0.4% methylcellulose, see page 4-170.

locust bean gum 0.3% 0.3% 0.3%

elastic high-acyl gellan 0.20% 0.20% 0.20%

low-acyl gellan 0.10% 0.10% 0.10%

xanthan gum 0.15% 0.15% 0.15%

sodium hexametaphosphate 0.05% 0.10% 0.20%

locust bean gum 0.8% 0.8% 0.8%

xanthan gum 0.2% 0.2% 0.2%

very elastic methylcellulose E4M 1.5% 1.5% 1.5%

160 Bloom gelatin 3.0% 3.0% 3.0%

agar 0.4% 0.4% 0.4%

locust bean gum 0.3% 0.3% 0.3%

sorbitol 5.0% 5.0% 5.0%

from page 4165 *(set weight of fruit or vegetable to 100%)

HOT ORANGE GEL Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 75 g 60% @ Mix to dissolve, and warm to make syrup.

Fructose 75 g 60% @ Vacuum seal with syrup, cook sous vide in 88 °C /190 °F bath for 4 h.

Orange zest, 50 g 40% @ Puree, pass through fine sieve, measure 175 g of puree, and reserve.
blanched three times
Citric acid 2g 1.6% @ Dry blend powders.

Agar(Texturas brand) 1-2 g 0.96%

Locust bean gum 0.9 g 0.72%

(TIC Gums brand)
Orangejuice, sieved 125 g 100% @ Mix 50 g (40%) of orange juice into puree.
© Disperse powder blend into cold mixture.
@ Boil until fully hydrated, about2 min.

Sorbitol 15 g 12% ® Combine with remaining 75 g (60%) of juice, and blend into hot puree.
® Cast immediately into mold, and allow to set.

from page 4-167

GELS 279
HOT BANANA GEL Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Banana, unpeeled lOOg 100% ® Cook sous vide in 88 °C/190 °F bath forl2 min.

@ Peel.

@ Sieve.
Water 175 g 175% ® Blend all ingredients with banana flesh, and bring to simmerto hydrate locust bean gum.

Fructose 25 g 25% ® Cast into mold, and cool.

Locust bean gum (POR/A2 2-2 g 2.2% ® Freeze completely, and store until needed.
Powder, TIC Gums brand) @ Thaw gel to serve.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.55 g 0.55%
CP Kelco brand)
from page 4-166

HOT GREEN APPLE GEL Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green apple, peeled lOOg 100% ® Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for 30 min.
and thinly sliced @ Puree until smooth, and reserve.

Malic acid 4g 4% @ Dissolve acid into fresh juice to preserve juice color.

Green apple juice 175 g 175%

(or water)
Fructose 25 g 25% @ Dry blend powders.

Calcium gluconate 1.25 g 1.25% ® Disperse into juice mixture.

Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 0.55 g 0.55% ® Blend with reserved puree.

CP Kelco brand) @ Heat to at least 85 °C /185 °F to hydrate.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T) 0.42 g 0.42% ® Cast into mold, and refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.275 g 0.275%
LTIOO, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium 0.2 g 0.2%
hexametaphosphate
from page 4-166

HOT QUINCE GEL Yields 300g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Fragrant quince, halved. lOOg 100% ® Pressure-cook (including reserved peels) at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi for45 min.
cored, and peeled, peels Discard skins.
reserved @ Puree cooked quince and cooking liquid.
Water 127 g 127% @ Cool completely.
Sugar 63 g 63%
Citric acid 1.8g 1.8% @ Dry blend powders.

Calcium gluconate 0.82 g 0.82% ® Disperse into cold puree.

Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.2 g 0.2% ® Mix into puree.

High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.3 g 0.3%
LTIOO, CP Kelco brand)
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F) 0.6 g 0.6%

Malic acid as needed ©Add acid as needed to pH 4.5 or to taste.

® Heat to at least 85 °C /185 °F.

® Cast into mold, and allow to set.

from page 4-167

280 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

QUINOA AND IDIAZAbAL WITH BONITO STOCK VEIL
ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields 800 g (eight portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

White vegetable stock 700 g 233% @ Blend together.
see page 6
@ Heat to 70 “C/IBB^F.
Idiazabal cheese, finely grated 300 g 100%
@ Rest for 10 min.
@ Strain; reserve 700 g of cheese-infused stock.

Quinoa 200 g 67% ® Combine with reserved stock.

® Simmer until quinoa is just cooked through, about 30 min.

@ Cool completely.
Salt to taste ® Season quinoa, and reserve 470 g, refrigerated.

White vegetable stock 375 g 125% ® Heat to 70°C/158°F.

see page 6
Bonito flakes 60 g 20% @ Stir into vegetable stock.
@ Remove from heat, and cover pot tightly with plastic wrap.
© Rest for 30 min.
© Strain.
@ Cool completely, and reserve 300 g of bonito stock.

Bonito stock, from above 300 g 100% ® Disperse into reserved bonito stock while cold.
160 Bloom gelatin 3g 1% ® Bring stock to boil, and simmerfor2 min.
Agar(Texturas brand) l-2g 0.4% @ Cast onto tray lined with plastic wrap to form layer 1 mm / 'hi in thick.
® Refrigerate until fully set, about 4 h.
® Cut circles 7,5 cm / 3 in. in diameterfrom bonito gel,
@ Spoon quinoa into mounds on center of eight plates slightly smaller in diameter than
gel circles.
@ Cover each quinoa mound with gel circle.
© Heat plates in 80°C/ 175 °F oven for about 8 min.

Rosemary blossoms 32 blossoms @ Garnish at table.

Creamed honey to taste

from page 4-168

DUNGENESS CRAB AND APPLE ROULADE inspired by scott carsberc Yieidssoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Applejuice 200 g 100% ® Season juice.

Malic acid to taste

Fructose to taste
Agar(Texturas brand) 0.8 g 0.4% @ Disperse into juice.

High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.6 g 0.3% @ Bring juice to boil, and simmer for 2 min.
LTIOO, CP Kelco brand) ® Cast onto nonstick baking sheet to form layer 1 mm /'/32 in thick.
® Refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
® Cut into circles 7 cm / 3 in. in diameter.

Dungeness crab meat 300 g 150% @ Fold together to make crab salad.

Basic mayonnaise 50 g 25%

see page 303 or store-bought

Scallions, finejulienne 30 g 15%

Sweet almond oil 24 g 12%

Lemon balm, finejulienne 3g 1.5%

Vanilla seeds and pulp 1.5g 0.75%

(from half
a bean)

Limejuice to taste ® Season crab salad.

Salt to taste ® Place apple gel circle flat across large flat plate or cutting board.

Seasonal herbs to taste ® Spoon salad thinly and evenly across surface of each circle.

© Roll each circle to form tight roulade.

© Garnish with seasonal herbs.

from page 4-168

GELS 281
CELLULOSE GUM GELS

® Select a texture. Several options are listed in the table Best Bets for @ Hydrate fully in the refrigerator for 6-12 h. The mixture will become
Methylcellulose Gels below, a clear liquid.
® Make a methylcellulose stock solution. Measure the methylcellulose, ® Add to the product to be set. The table suggests a number of uses.
and whisk it into hot water equal to about one-third of the weight of the In general, add one part methylcellulose stock solution to every two
fluid you want to gel. Avoid using cold water because it causes the parts flavored fluid. For example, to make 300 g of apple jelly, add 100 g
powderto hydrate too quickly and clump. Quantities in the table are of methylcellulose stock to 200 g of concentrated apple juice.
given as a percentage of the water used. For example, mix in 1.2 g of SCA
® Cast the product into a container, and heat it to set. Heat it at least
150 for every 100 g of water to produce a stock solution for firm, custard¬
to the gelling temperature given in the table, and hold it above the
like gels.
melting temperature until ready to serve.

Best Bets for Methylcellulose Gels

Quantity Gels Melts
Texture Firmness Gelling agent (scaling)* (°C) (°F) m (-F) Example use See page
very elastic tender KIOOM 1.5% 90 194 50 122 tender pudding, instant creme brulee
elastic tender A15C 1.5% 55 131 25 77 gel sheets, instant noodles next
elastic firm E4M 1.5% 64 147 50 122 gel pancakes
F450 2.5% 68 154 35 95 dumplings, gnocchi
semibrittle firm SGA150 1.2% 44 111 15 59 firm custard, scrambled corn
brittle firm SCA7C 1,0% 44 111 15 59 hot sliceable terrine
from page4-171 *(set weight of liquid to 100%)

Properties and Applications of Cellulose Gums

Gel Gelling Viscosity Quantity Hydrate Gels Melts
firmness Category agent (mPa-s)_(scaling)* (°C) (°F) (°C) (°F)_(°C) (°F) Example uses
soft HPMC K99 80-120 0.4%-4% <30 <86 70-90 158-194 <50 <122 formation of films, fried
K4M 2,700-5,040 products, tender gels

K100 75,000-140,000

semifirm HPMC E15 12-18 1.0%-3% <25 <77 58-64 136-147 <50 <122 custards, noodles
E50 40-60

E4M 2,700-5,040

HPMC E50 40-60 0.2%-2.5% <25 <77 62-68 144-154 <35 <95 foams, whipped toppings,
E450 360-540 puddings

F4M 2,700-5,040

firm MC A15 12-18 0.1%-2% <13 <55 50-55 122-131 <25 <77 baked goods, set foams,
A4M 2,700-5,600 formation offilms

A40M 7,500-14,000

veryfirm SuperMC SCA150 150-450 l,0%-3.5% <10 <50 38-44 100-111 <15 <59 liquid coatings,
SCAA7C 700-980 firm-set gels

SCAA50M 50,000-120,000
from page 4-170 *{set weight of liquid to 100%)

The gelling agents listed in the tables above refer to Dow brand products.
For the names of comparable products made by other manufacturers, see
the Hydrocolloid Product Guide on page II at the end ofvolume 5.

282 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

INSTANT TOFU NOODLES ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 1.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 150 g 44% @ Disperse.
Methocel A15C (Dow brand) 7.5 g 2.2% @ Bringto boil.
(15%)*
Tofu, firm 340 g 100% @ Blend into boiling water to form puree.
Salt to taste @ Season tofu puree.
Toasted sesame oil to taste ©Coolto50°C/122°F.
® Refrigerate until hydrated, at least 6 h.
@ Transfer to squeeze bottle with tip 5 mm/fw in. in diameter.

® Set aside.
Hon dashi 900 g 265% ® Blend dashi with miso.
see page 15
(5) Centrifuge at 27,500^ for 1 h to make consomme.
Aka miso 25 g 7.4%

Shiro miso 20 g 6%

Salt to taste ® Season miso consomme.

@ Bringto boil, and ladle into bowls.

Golden enoki mushrooms, 50 g 15% @ Garnish soup.

tops only (») Extrude tofu puree into hot soup to form instant noodles.
Fresh sea lettuce, thick julienne 17 g 5%
Scallions, green parts only, 7g 2%
thinly sliced
from page 4-172 *(% of total weight of tofu and water)

POTATO BEIGNETS WITH CAVIAR Yields 700 g (about 25 beignets)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Baked potato stock lOOg 80% ® Bringwaterto boil.
see page 19
@ Shear Methocel into boilingstock.
Methocel E4M 5.5 g 4.4%
@ Simmerfor3 min.
(Dow brand) (0.4%)*
@ Place pot in ice-water bath, and stir until cold and thickened.
® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate Methocel mixture for at least 8 h to hydrate.

Baked potato stock 125 g 100% ® Blend together until smooth.

see page 19

Cultured buttermilk 125 g 100%

(stabilizer-free)

Eggs 50 g 40%

Creme fralche 90 g 72%

Methocel mixture, from above 45 g 36%

All-purpose flour 120 g 96% @ Dry-blend, and sift together.

Instant potato flakes 30 g 24% ® Pour wet mixture in, and stir until completely incorporated. Do not overwork the batter.
(store-bought)
Salt 5g 4%

Baking powder 5g 4%

Bakingsoda 2.5 g 2%

Clarified butter 20 g 16% ® Drizzle into batter while stirring; mix to distribute evenly.

Neutral oil as needed @ Roll 30 ml / 2 T portions gently in gloved hands until round and smooth. Do not
completely deflate mixture.
® Drop balls into 190 °C/ 375 °F oil until golden brown and slightly puffed, about 3 min.

® Drain on paper towels.

Caviar (best quality available) as desired @ Serve with warm beignets.

Creme fraTche as desired

from page 4-174 *(% of total weight of all other batter ingredients, excluding Methocel mixture)

GELS 283
SWEET PEA CLUSTERS INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA AND ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields 375 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Pea juice (or vegetable stock) 200 g 100% @ Bringjuice to boil.
see page 41 or page 6
(D Disperse methylcellulose into boilingjuice.
Methocel E4M (Dow brand) 4g 2%
@ Simmer for 3 min.
@ Refrigerate until hydrated, at least 6 h.

® Measure 20 g of E4M solution to coat peas.

Sweet peas, shelled 130 g 65% ® Blend xanthan gum into methocel solution.
E4M solution, from above 20 g 10% @ Mix peas with reserved solution; stir to coat peas evenly.
Xanthan gum 0.03 g 0.015% ® Form 16 clusters of 9 g each.

® Arrange clusters, well separated, on baking sheet lined with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
Water 1 kg 500% ® To serve, transfer clusters carefully to salted 90 °C / 194 °F bath.
Salt 20 g 10% @ Remove from bath when gel on clusters has fully set, about 1 min.
Ham broth 200 g 100% ® Bring broth to simmer, and check seasoning.
see page 16
@ Divide broth equally amongfour bowls.
@ Place two pea clusters in each bowl.
Walnut oil 20 g 10% ® Season broth.
Mint leaves 8g 4%
from page 4173

MACKEREL WITH SPICY TOMATO SKIN Yieldssoog(fourportions)

INSPIRED BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 225 g 100% @ Puree until smooth.
Tomato confit 150 g 67% @ Pass through fine sieve.
see page 179

Red bell pepper, roasted and 75 g 33%

peeled
Cayenne pepper 2g 0.9%
Salt to taste @ Season puree.
160 Bloom gelatin 4.5 g 2% ® Disperse into puree.
m* ® Heat to90°C/194°F.
Methocel F50 (Dow brand) 5.7 g 2.5% ® Blend into hot puree until fully dispersed, and continue blendingforl min.
(1.27%)*
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until fully hydrated, at least 6 h.

® Spread puree on tray lined with plastic wrap to form layerl mm /'M in thick.
® Dehydrate in oven at 110 °C/230 °F for 15 min.
@ Cool resulting tomato skin to room temperature.
Mackerel fillets, cleaned. 320 g 142% ® Cut tomato skin to match dimensions of each fillet.
pin bones and skin removed (four fillets) @ Press cut tomato skins onto fillets.
Olive oil 40 g 18% ® Vacuum seal fillets individually.
@ Refrigerate until set, at least 30 min.

® Remove fillets and skins from bags, and vacuum seal again individually with 10 g
of olive oil in each bag.

@ Cook fillets sous vide in 46 °C/ 115 °F bath to core temperature of 45 °C/ 113 'F,
about 15 min.

® Remove fillets from bags.

Bouillabaisse broth 300 g 133% @ Warm, and adjust seasoning.
see page 17

Blood orange segments 40 g 18% ® Toss together to make salad.

Fennel, thinly shaved 40 g 18% @ Season salad.
Radish, thinly shaved 20 g 9% @ Place each fillet covered in tomato skin in individual serving dish.
Thai basil leaves 5g 2% @ Garnish with salad.
Olive oil to taste @ Pour bouillabaisse broth around fillets attable.
Salt to taste
from page 4175 *(% of total weight of first three ingredients)

284 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

FLUID GELS

® Select the temperature and desired viscosity. The table Best Bets for Fluid table. If you use a sequestrant, or if the food has low calcium content,
Cels below lists several options for both hot and cold gels. then you may need to add calcium after hydration (see page 4-129).
@ For egg fluid gels, cook eggs. The table suggests cooking times and ® Cast the gel, and let it set.
temperatures. @ Puree the gel to the preferred consistency. Additional liquid may be
@ For hydrocolloid fluid gels, scale and mix the gelling agents. The table added as needed to thin the gel.
offers two or more options for each combination of service temperature ® Sieve the fluid gel to produce a gel having a finer consistency (optional).
and viscosity. Quantities in the table are scaled relative to the weight of
the principal liquid. For example, to make a thick, hot onion gel, use 0.8 g
of low-acyl gellan for every 100 g of onion puree.
VARIATION: QUICK-SETTING A FLUID GEL
@ Disperse the gelling agents into the liquid. A sequestrant may be ® Follow steps 1-5 above.
necessary if using gellan (see page 4-129).
d) Set the gel in a beaker immersed in ice water.
® Hydrate fully. Hydration times and temperatures are indicated in the
@ Puree the gel with a hand blender as the gel sets.

Best Bets for Fluid Gels

Hydrate or cook jgg
Temperature Viscosity Gelling agents (scaling)** (min) (°C) (“F) Note Example use page
cold thin 160 Bloom gelatin 0.8% 2-5 60 140 stir or sieve before serving; gel thickened consomme.
will continue to set broth

egg yolk 250% 35 65 149 select quantity to obtain savory creme anglaise, 287
amount of egg flavor desired lemon eggyolksauce
84% 35 69 156

25% 35 80 176
iota carrageenan 0.1% 3 75 167 higherviscosity with dairy light cream sauce
medium- 160 Bloom gelatin 1.5% 2-5 60 140 stir or sieve before serving; gel passion fruit jelly, coating 287
thick will continue to heal gel forterrines

egg yolk 150% 35 80 176 mustard sauce for cold cuts,

smooth salad dressing

whole egg 100% 35 78 172

kappa carrageenan 0.4% 3 95 203 higherviscosity with dairy light pudding

thick 160 Bloom gelatin 2.5% 2-5 60 140 stir or sieve before serving; gel vegetable orfruit juice
will continue to set puree, dense pudding
whole egg 250% 35 78 172 low-fat mayonnaise, aioli
iota carrageenan 0.35% 3 75 167 higherviscosity if used traditional pudding
kappa carrageenan 0.20% with dairy

hot thin agar 0.25% 3 95 203 slightly cloudy broth

low-acyl gellan* 0.1% 3 95 203 acidic liquids may require consomme
a sequestrant to hydrate
medium- egg yolk 80% 35 69 156 do not reheat above cooking rich egg-yolk sauce
thick temperature

agar 0.40% 3 95 203 gravy, cream-style sauce

xanthan gum 0.15%
low-acyl gellan* 0.5% 3 95 203 acidic liquids may require gravy, cream-style sauce
a sequestrant to hydrate
thick agar 0.9% 3 95 203 fluid gel puree
xanthan gum 0.2%
egg yolk 150% 35 69 156 egg-only mayonnaise
low-acyl gellan* 0.8% 3 95 203 acidic liquids may require fizzy grape fluid gel 289
a sequestrant to hydrate
from page 4-177 *(add 0.15% calcium lactate for low calcium solutions; allow 3 h to fully set); **{set weight of liquid to 100%)

GELS 285
PASSION FRUIT BROWN BUTTER FLUID GEL Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Passion fruit juice 250 g 100% ® Combine, and bringto boil.
Agar 1.35g 0.54% @ Pour liquid into beakerset in ice-water bath.
{0.45%)* @ Blend with immersion blenderas gel sets, until cooled
and fluid.
@ Blend into fluid gel.
The earthy aroma of beet comes
® Strain.
11 GJ 11J ci G G/111G^ GJ1 1G1 G u 11G. G* Gr 11111 >.
Horseradish, grated 7.5 8 3% ® Blend into fluid gel. We think that it complements the
©Adjust to taste. bright acidity and pungency of
Brown butter, melted 50 g 20% ©Whisk in. passion fruit

Malic acid 4.5 g 1.8% @ Season, and refrigerate until use.

Salt to taste
from page 5-182 *(% of total weight of all other ingredients)

HOT AND COLD TEA adapted f ROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 1.73 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Distilled water 1.8 kg 209% © Stirtogether.

Earl Grey tea leaves 40 g 4.6% @ Vacuum seal, and infuse at room temperature fori h.
@ Strain tea through fine sieve, and measure 1.73 kg.
@ Divide reserved tea into two 865 g portions,

For cold tea:

Earl Grey tea, from above 860 g 100% © Dry blend, and whisk into 865 g of reserved tea.

Unrefined caster sugar 80 g 9.3% © Bring mixture to simmer.

Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 0.6 g 0.07% @ Blend until completely dissolved.
CP Kelco brand) ® Cool over ice-water bath, and then refrigerate for 24 h.
Sodium citrate 0.6 g 0.07% ® Pass tea mixture through fine sieve.
Malic acid Ig 0.12% @ Refrigerate until needed.
Calcium chloride 0.25 g 0.03%

For hot tea:

Earl Grey tea, from above 860 g 100% ® Follow steps 5-10 above.
Unrefined caster sugar 80 g 9.3% @ Warm fluid gel in 72 °C/ 162 °F bath.
Eow-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 0.6 g 0.07% ® Place tight-fitting vertical dividers down centers offoursmall glasses, aligning dividers
CP Kelco brand) perpendicular to handles.
Sodium citrate 0.6 g 0.07% @ Remove cold tea gel from refrigerator.
Malic acid 3.5 g 0.4% ® Pour hot tea and cold tea gels individually into separate halves of each glass, filling both
Calcium chloride 0.25 g 0.03% sections to same height.
® Remove divider, and serve immediately without jostling or tipping. Align dividing lines
with lips of drinkers so that they experience hot and cold teas simultaneously.
from page 4-182

286 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 PASSION FRUITJELLY ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 580 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Passion fruit puree 150 g 40% @ Disperse gelatin in cold water.
(Boiron brand)
@ Whisk together puree and fructose.
Fructose 45 g 12%
@ Warm sweetened puree until fructose is completely dissolved.
160 Bloom gelatin 10.5 g 2.8%
@ Add hydrated gelatin to warm puree, and stirtogether until dissolved.
{2%)*
Fresh oysterjuice 375 g 100% @ Whisk into warm liquid mixture.
(D Refrigerate for 1 h to set.

@ Press set gel through sieve to make it fluid.

(D Spoon onto fresh oysters in cleaned shells, and serve immediately.
from page 4T80 *{% of total weight of passion fruit puree and oysterjuice)

POPCORN PUDDING adapted from WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields450g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Organic microwavable 75 g 19% @ Microwave popcorn.
popcorn (one bag)
Whole milk 2.5 kg 625% @ Blend with popped popcorn.
Freeze-dried corn 200 g 50% @ Pass corn milk through fine sieve twice; measure 400 g of corn milk.
see page 188 (orstore-bought)
Corn milk (from above) 400 g 100% @ Combine corn milk and water.
Water 45 g 11% @ Disperse gums into liquid.
lota carrageenan (Genuvisco J, 2.7g 0.68% ® Bring mixture to boil, and remove from heat.
CP Kelco brand) (0.6%)* @ Cool until set.
Kappa carrageenan (Genugel 1.8g 0.45%
® Blend to fine puree.
CHP2, CP Kelco brand) (0.4%)*
@ Pass pudding through fine sieve.
Salt to taste 1® Season.
from page 4-181 *(% of total weight of corn milk and water)

LEMON EGG-YOLK FLUID GEL Yields 200 g of fluid gel

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Strip steak one steak @ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 55 °C/131 °F bath to core temperature of 54 °C/
129 °F, about 40 min.
Egg yolks 120 g 100% @ Blend egg yolks, and vacuum seal.
(84%)* @ Cook sous vide in 69 °C/156 °F bath for 35 min. Yolks will solidify.
® Remove from bag.
White beef stock 130 g 108% ©Blend cold stock and lemon juice with yolk mixture until completely fluid.
see page 6
® Pass through fine sieve.
Lemon juice 12 g 10%
Salt to taste @ Season, and reheat to 60 °C/140 °F. Keep temperature below 69 °C/156 °F, otherwise
sauce will thicken.
from page4'180 *(%of total weight of stock and juice)

GELS 287
PARMESAN "POLENTA" INSPIRED BY DAVE ARNOLD AND NILS NOREN Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White chicken stock lOOg 100% @ Shear powders into cold stock with immersion blender.
see page 11
(D Bring mixture to boil.
Parmesan water 100 g 100%
@ Place mixture in pan, and place over ice-cold water bath to set.
see page 20
@ Pulse set gel with hand blender—or press through potato ricer—to create an irregular.
Corn juice lOOg 100%
see page 2-336 coarse-grained mixture.

Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel E, 3% ® Refrigerate until use.

3g
CP Kelco brand) (/%)*
Unsalted butter, cubed 50 g 50% ® To serve, reheat polenta, and whisk in butter until melted.
Parmesan, finely grated 50 g 50% @ Whisk in Parmesan.
Salt to taste ® Season.
from page 4-181 *(% of total weight of chicken stock and corn juice)

ONION FLUID GEL ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Onions, thinly sliced 250 g 62.5% @ Combine in pot.
Unsalted butter 30 g 7.5% ® Saute onions until softand translucent.
Thyme, sprig Ig 0.25%
Low-fat milk 200 g 50% @ Add to cooked onions, and simmer mixture for5 min.
White chicken stock 150 g 37.5% ® Remove from heat, and discard thyme.
see page 6 and page 11
® Blend mixture fully.
Heavy cream 95 g 23.8%
® Press through fine sieve, and reserve 400 g of infused milk.
Salt to taste @ Season infused milk, and let cool.
Infused onion milk. 400 g 100% ® Disperse into cold infused milk.
from above @ Bring milk to 93 ‘'C/199 °F, and hold for 3 min to fully hydrate gellan.
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 2-7g 0.68% @ Transfer to container, and cool over ice-water bath.
CP Kelco brand)
® Blend by hand until cold and completely fluid.
® Pass through fine sieve, and refrigerate.
from page 4-183

CONFIT EGG YOLK PUREE Yields no g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended 100 g 100% ® Vacuum seal.
@ Cook sous vide in 69 °C/156 °F bath for45 min.
Champagne vinegar 8g 8% ® Puree with egg yolks.
Glucose syrup DE 40 4g 4%
Salt to taste @ Season puree, and refrigerate until use.
from page 5-148

288 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 UMAMI SEASONING FLUID GEL insp IRED BY GRANT ACHATZ
Yields 625 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_
Brown beefstock or water 300 g 100% ® Blend liquids, and disperse agar into cold mixture.
see page 10
@ Bring mixture to 95 °C/203 °F, and hold for 3 min to hydrate fully.
Tomato ketchup (Heinz brand) 80 g 26.7%
@ Remove from heat, and cast into mold.
Clear honey 60 g 20%
® Refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
Fish sauce 30 g 10%
© Break gel into small pieces foreasier blending.
Sherry vinegar 20 g 6.7%
AgarfTexturas brand) 6g 2%
Dark soy sauce 150 g 50% ©Puree soy sauce with set gel until very smooth, and pass through fine sieve.

@ Serve as seasoning for grilled mushrooms with shaved jalapeho peppers and avocado.
from page 4-183

FIZZY GRAPE FLUID GEL adapted from heston blumenthal

Yields 800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White grape juice 720 g 100% ® Blend in pot.
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel F, 6.4 g 0.89% @ Heat to 95 °C/ 203 °F to fully hydrate, and hold for 3 min.
CP Kelco brand) {0.8%)*
© Remove from heat, and strain through fine sieve.

@ Cool over ice-water bath, blending continuously, until gel mixture is chilled and
completely fluid.
Muscat wine (dry) 80 g 11% © Add to fluid gel, and blend.
® Pass through fine sieve, and cool.
Champagne 15 g 2% ©Fold gently into fluid gel, and pour fluid gel into 11 whipping siphon.

® Vent head space with one cartridge of carbon dioxide (see page 2-468). Charge with two
cartridges of carbon dioxide, and shake siphon vigorously.
® Refrigerate for at least 2 h to carbonate.
from page 4183 *(% of total weight of white grape juice, muscat wine, and Champagne)

GELS 289
SPHERIFICATION

® Select a spherification method from the table Best Bets for Spherification © Prepare the setting bath. Stir the setting agent into clean water, and allow
below. To gel a liquid that naturally contains calcium, we recommend 1 h for it to dissolve fully. Optionally, add sugar syrup (up to 22% sugar
using reverse spherification, described in the variation below. concentration) or corn syrup to the bath so that its density matches that
of the liquid to be gelled. This prevents the droplets from falling to the
@ Scale and mix the gelling agents. Weigh the ingredients relative to
bottom of the setting bath.
the amount of liquid you will be gelling. For example, when making
@ Introduce drops of gelling solution into the bath. A common tech¬
cranberry gel spheres, add 2 g of iota carrageenan for every 100 g of
nique when making large spheres is to slide tablespoonfuls of gelling
cranberry juice.
fluid gently into the bath water. A peristaltic pump (see page 4-139) can
@ Disperse the gelling solution. Add sequestrants as needed (see be set up to drip the droplets continuously. If you are making small
page 4-129). spheres, use a syringe to dispense the solution. Allow the skin to form for
@ Hydrate fully. See the table of hydrocolloid properties on page 4-42 for 1-3 min; beads will grow increasingly firm as they soak.
hydration times and temperatures. ® Rinse the spheres with clearwater. Rinsing slows the gelling process and

® Vacuum seal (optional), and chill for2 h. Vacuum sealing removes air washes away any lingering flavors from the setting solution. Rinse the
spheres at least twice. Remove with a perforated spoon. Option¬
from the solution and helps prevent bubbles from alteringthe shape and
ally, heat to 85 °C/185 °F for 10 min to stop further solidification. Store
texture of the spheres as they form.
the spheres in water or oil until needed.

Best Bets for Spherification

Forthe Forthe
Method sphere base (scaling)* setting bath (scaling)* Note See page
alginate (direct) sodium alginate 1% calcium chloride 0.5% xanthan gum thickens liquid and yields next

xanthan gum (optional) 0.2%-0.5% more even orbs

sodium alginate 1% calcium gluconate 2.5% see note above

xanthan gum (optional) 0.2%-0.5%

alginate (reverse) calcium lactate 3% sodium alginate 0.5% see note above next

xanthan gum (optional) 0.2%-0.5% sodium citrate 1.2% use sodium citrate when liquid is acidic or
(optional) high in calcium

carrageenan iota carrageenan 2% potassium 5% hydrate carrageenan cold for at

(direct) phosphate least 5 h; can also be made reverse

gellan (direct) low-acyl gellan 0.2% calcium gluconate 6% best made with low acid, moderate

sodium 0.1% lactic acid 0.1% calcium liquids; make frozen hemispheres

hexametaphosphate and set in 80 °C /176 °F calcium bath; can

also be made reverse

LM pectin calcium lactate 5% LM pectin 2% can also be made direct 293

(reverse)
from page 4187 *{set weight of liquid to 100%)

VARIATION: SUSPENDING A SOLID VARIATION: REVERSE SPHERIFICATION

IN A GELLED SPHERE
@ In reverse spherification, the edible liquid is mixed with calcium lactate
or another salt, and the gelling agent (such as alginate) is dispersed into
® Follow steps 1-6 above. If you are using reverse spherification, see the
the bath.
variation at right.
@ When the edible liquid enters the bath, a skin of gel forms around it,
@ Add a solid to the center of the liquid or puree. The solid must be fully
encapsulating the liquid. Unlike direct spherification, the edible liquid
encased in the solution; if any part protrudes, an intact membrane will
itself does not set, although the skin does grow increasingly firm the
not form around the sphere. Continue with step 7 above for direct
longer the bead remains in the bath. Adding xanthan gum to the liquid
spherification, or see at right for reverse spherification.
thickens it and yields smoother spheres. Because the bath contains no
salts, it is not necessary to rinse the beads.

290 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

 CARBONATED MOJITO SPHERES adapted from jose andr^s
Yields 480 g (about 40 spheres)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, distilled 450 g 129% ® Blend until completely dissolved.
Lime juice 120 g 34.5%
Sugar 120 g 34.5%
Mint leaves, julienne 80 g 23% @ Blend into juice mixture.
Lime zest, grated 12 g 3.4% @ Steep, refrigerated, fori h.

@ Strain, and reserve 350 g of juice solution to make spheres. Reserve remainder to
store spheres.
Lime juice mixture, 350 g 100% © Blend with reserved juice solution until incorporated.
from above
White rum 130 g 37%
Calcium lactate 6.7g 1.9%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, l-7g 0.5%
CP Kelco brand)
Ascorbic acid 0.3 g 0.08%
Sodium alginate 5g 1.43% ® Blend waterand sodium alginate until completely dissolved.
(Algin, Texturas brand)
@ Refrigerate bath fori h.
Water 1kg 286%
® Fill two whipping siphons with 100 g each of reserved juice mixture.
@ Fill tablespoon with mixture, tip gently into alginate bath, and release contents.
® Setfor 7 min; skin will form.

® Remove from bath with perforated spoon, and rinse sphere twice in fresh water.
® Place sphere gently into whipping siphon containing juice mixture.

® Repeat procedure with remaining mixture; fill each siphon only half full with spheres.
@ Vent head space with one cartridge of carbon dioxide, and then charge each siphon with
two cartridges of carbon dioxide at least 5 h before serving. Refrigerate siphons to
carbonate spheres.
Lime zest, finely grated to taste ® Remove spheres from whipping siphons with perforated spoon, and place in cocktails.
@ Garnish.
from page 4188

MELON CAVIAR ADAPTED FROM FERRAN '^'2>R|A Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sodium alginate (Algin, 2g 0.8% ® Combine sodium alginate with 50 gof melon juice.
Texturas brand)
@ Blend until dissolved.
Melon juice 250 g 100%
@ Mix in remaining melon juice.
see page 2-336
@ Strain.

® Vacuum seal; remove excess air.

Water 500 g 200% ® Blend calcium chloride in water until dissolved.
Calcium chloride 2.5 g 1% @ Set up three baths: one filled with calcium chloride solution to set spheres, two filled with
cold waterto rinse spheres.

® Fill syringes ordroplet makerwith melon juice mixture.

® Expel droplets one at a time into calcium chloride bath.
® Remove each droplet from bath after 1 min.
® Strain melon caviar.

@ Rinse caviartwice in cold water baths.

from page 4189

GELS
291
"POACHED" EGG Yields five "eggs"

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Forthe setting bath:
Water 2 kg 333% © Whisk together.
Sodium alginate lOg 1.7% @ Vacuum seal to remove excess air, and refrigerate for 2 h.
(TICA-algin 400 Powder,
TIC Gums brand)
Forthe egg-yolk base:
Calcium lactate 4g 0.7% ® Sift together.
Sugar 3g 0.5%
Salt 2g 0.3%
Egg yolks, pasteurized 150 g 25% ® Blend into calcium lactate mixture, taking care to incorporate as little air as possible.
see page 232
® Dispense with sauce gun into 2 cm /Ya in hemisphere molds. Freeze.
Rendered bacon fat 50 g 8.5%
® Heat sodium alginate solution until fluid is 60-65 °C /140-149 °F.
@ Remove from heat, and carefully drop in frozen hemispheres.
® Leave for 2 min, turn spheres over, and leave fori min longer.

® Fill three bowls with water: heat two to 75-80 °C/167-176 °F; fill the third with cold water.
@ Transfer spheres with slotted spoon to first bowl of warm water to rinse for 1 min.

® Rinse spheres again in second bowl of warm water, and reserve in cold water.
Forthe "cooked" egg-white base:
Gruyere water 600 g 100% @ Mix, and bringto boil.
see page 20
® Pour into sauce gun, and rest at room temperature until about 60 °C/ 140 °F.
FHeavy cream lOOg 16.5%
@ Dispense "egg" white into one half of plastic eggshell.
lota carrageenan 4.2 g 0.7%
® Place yolk sphere in center of white, and cap with top half of plastic shell.
(Texturas brand)
® Dispense remaining white into sealed shell through drilled hole until overflowing.
Locust bean gum 0.44 g 0.07%
(POR/A2 Powder, @ Chill over ice.
TIC Gums brand)

from page 4 195

TOMATO SPHERES WITH BASIL OIL Yields 300 g (about 12 spheres)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato water 250 g 50% @ Blend until homogenized.
see page 40
@ Press through fine sieve, and reserve refrigerated.
Sodium alginate 2g 0.4%
(Algin, Texturas brand)
Grapeseed oil 200 g 40% ® Puree in blenderforS min.
Basil, blanched and shocked 100 g 20% ® Press through fine sieve.

® Decant basil oil, and reserve in syringe.

Water 500 g 100% ® Blend to dissolve completely.
Calcium lactate 2.5g 0.5% @ Set up four baths: fill one with calcium lactate solution, and fill three with cold water.
® Fill tablespoon with reserved tomato water solution.

® Tip spoon into calcium lactate bath to gently release contents.

@ Set in bath until membrane has fully formed around tomato sphere, about 30 s.

® Inject approximately 3 ml / 0.1 oz of basil oil into submerged sphere.

@ Remove syringe; wait for membrane puncture to heal and sphere to reshape, about 15 s.
@ Remove sphere from bath with perforated spoon.

@ Repeat procedures with remaining tomato water solution and basil oil.
© Rinse spheres in each of three cold water baths.
® Refrigerate until needed.
from page 4492

292 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

GRUYERESPHERES ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 2 kg (about 24 spheres)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Gruyere cheese, finely grated 250 g 100% © Spread on tray lined with silicone mat.
@ Bake in 175 °C/350 °F oven until golden, aboutl2 min.
Whole milk 1kg 400% @ Blend with cheese until fully incorporated.
Propylene glycol alginate 7.5 g 3% @ Refrigerate overnight.
(Protanal Ester BV,
@ Strain through fine sieve.
EMC BioPolymer brand)
Salt to taste ® Season, and pipe into silicone hemisphere molds 3 cm / I'A in. in diameter.
@ Freeze completely, about 2 h.
Water, room temperature 500 g 200% ® Blend until completely dissolved.
EM pectin (Genupectin 20 g 8% ® Remove frozen cheese hemispheres from molds, and drop into pectin bath.
EM 104 AS, CP Kelco brand)
@ Soak until coated with pectin, about V/i min.
Water, room temperature 500 g 200% @ Blend until completely dissolved to make setting bath.
Calcium lactate 2.5 g 1% @ Drop pectin-coated spheres into setting bath.

® Allow membrane to form, at least 90 s, and then remove from bath; hold in cold water.
Yellow onions, thinly sliced 200 g 80% @ Saute onions until very tender and deep golden, about 35 min.
LJnsalted butter 50 g 20% @ Puree.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.8 g 0.32% ® Blend into onion puree.
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste @ Season onion puree.
Rye bread, frozen. lOOg 40% @ Cut into slices 3 mm /)4 in thick with meat slicer.
crusts removed ® Roll slices through pasta machine to compress.
@ Bake slices at 95 °C / 205 °F between two silicone mats for 45 min.
Oxtail consomme 500 g 200% @ Combine, and bring to simmer.
see page 46
@ Season soup.
Salt to taste
@ Drop cheese spheres into soup, and warm through.
Sherry vinegar to taste
@ Serve spheres in hot consomme with rye bread slice smeared with onion puree.
Lemon thyme leaves lOg 4% ® Garnish.

from page 4-190

CAPER DROPLETS Yields 100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Capers 90 g 100% @ Blend to fine puree.
White wine vinegar 6g 6.7% @ Pass through fine sieve.
Caper brine 5g 5.5%
Calcium lactate 3g 3.3% @ Whisk into caper puree.
{3%)*
Water 500 g 555% ® Disperse alginate in cold water until fully dissolved, to make setting bath.
Sodium alginate 2.5 g 2.8% ® Fill squeeze bottle with caper puree.
(Algin, Texturas brand) (0.5%)** ® Expel droplets into bath, and leave for 30 s.
0 Drain droplets, and rinse in fresh water.
Neutral oil as needed ® Reserve droplets in oil.
from page 5-159 *(% of total weight of capers, white wine vinegar, and caper brine)
**(% of total weight of water)

GELS 293
MUSSELS IN MUSSEL JUICE SPHERES adapted from ferran adriA Yields 200 g (about 20 spheres)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Mussel jus lOOg 100% (i) Blend until completely dissolved.
see page 34
(D Vacuum seal solution to remove excess air.
Calcium gluconate 2.5g 2.5%
@ Refrigerate until needed.
Xanthan gum (Texturas brand) 0.5 g 0.5%
Rock mussels 20 mussels @ Steam for 3 min until just opened.
@ Shuck.

® Refrigerate to cool quickly.

Water 1kg 1,000% @ Blend to dissolve completely.
Sodium alginate (Algin, 5g 5% ® Vacuum seal to remove excess air.
Texturas brand)
® Set up three baths: fill one with sodium alginate solution, and fill two with cold water.
@ Place one mussel at a time onto spoon 2.5 cm / 1 in. in diameter.

® Pour 4 g of reserved mussel juice solution onto mussel.

® Tip spoon carefully into sodium alginate bath to gently release contents.
® Set in bath until membrane has fully formed, about 5 min.
@ Remove sphere from bath with perforated spoon.

® Repeat procedure with remaining mussels and mussel juice solution.

® Rinse spheres in two cold water baths.
Salt 7g 7% ® Dissolve salt in water to make brine.
Water 400 g 400% @ Immerse mussel spheres in brine.
® Refrigerate until needed.

@ To serve, warm spheres in 60 "C/ 140 °F bath for 3 min.

from page 4-191

LIQUID PIMENTO OLIVE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields480g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Extra-virgin olive oil 500 g 100% @ Combine to make aromatic olive oil.
Thyme 20 g 4% @ Reserve for later use.
Orange peel, julienne 15 g 3%
Green olives, pitted 500 g 100% @ Blend in food processor to fine paste.
Olive brine, from olives 200 g 40% ® Press through fine sieve, and reserve 450 g of olive puree.
Calcium lactate 13.5 g 2.7% ® Blend by hand with olive puree until completely dissolved.
(3%)*
Xanthan gum (Texturas brand) 1.6g 0.32% ® Blend gradually with olive puree.
(0.36%)* @ Cast into hemisphere molds.
Piquillo pepper, cut in thin 15g 3% ® Place pepperstrip on top, and carefully push into each hemisphere.
strips (store-bought)
® Freeze.
Sodium alginate (Algin, 5g 1% @ Disperse with hand blender, and refrigerate until needed.
Texturas brand)
® Before use, blend until sodium alginate is completely incorporated.
Water 1kg 200% ® Vacuum seal to remove accumulated bubbles.
® Pour into bowl to make bath for setting olives.
® Bring bath to simmer.

® Remove each frozen hemisphere from mold, place on spoon, and tip gently into bath.
@ Set in bath for 3 min. Hemispheres will thaw into spheres, and skin will form.
® Remove olive sphere from bath with perforated spoon.
@ Rinse sphere twice in cold water.

® Repeat with remaining olive hemispheres.

@ Store spherified olives, refrigerated, in reserved aromatic olive oil.

from page 4-193 *{% of weight of reserved olive puree)

294 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

 PROSCIUTTO AND MELON "RAW EGG rr Yields five eggs
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Forthe setting bath:
Water 2 kg 400% @ Whisk together.
Sodium alginate (TICA-algin lOg 2% @ Vacuum seal to remove excess air, and refrigerate for 2 h.
400 Powder, TIC Gums brand)
Forthe egg-yolk base:
Sugar 20 g 4% @ Sift together.
Calcium lactate 9g 1.8%
Xanthan gum 2.5g 0.5%
Salt l-7g 0.3%
Malic acid 11 g 0.2%
Melon juice 500 g 100% @ Blend juice into calcium lactate mixture, taking care to incorporate as little air as possible.
(from about
© Dispense with sauce gun into 2 cm / % in hemisphere molds.
900gof melon)
© Freeze.

@ Heat sodium alginate solution until fluid is 60-65 °C /140-149 °F.

@ Remove from heat, and carefully drop in frozen hemispheres.
@ Leave for 2 min, turn spheres over, and leave fori min longer.

@ Fill three bowls with water: heat two to 75-80 °C / 167-176 °F; fill third with cold water.
® Transfer spheres with slotted spoon to first bowl of warm water to rinse for 1 min.
@ Rinse spheres again in second bowl of warm water, and reserve in cold water.
Forthe "raw" egg-white base:
Ham broth, gelatin-clarified 500 g 100% ® Mix, and bringto boil.
see page 14 and page 16
@ Pour into sauce gun, and rest at room temperature until about 60 °C/ 140 °F.
Xanthan gum 1.25 g 0.25%
® Dispense "egg" white into one half of plastic eggshell.
Locust bean gum 0.032 g 0.006%
(POR/A2 Powder, ® Place yolk sphere in center of white, and cap with other half of plastic shell.

TIC Gums brand) ® Dispense remaining white into sealed shell through drilled hole until overflowing.
@ Chill over ice.
from page 4194

GELS 295
DAIRY EMULSIONS

ULTRASTABLE BEURRE BLANC vieids220s

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE
Water, stock, or heavy cream 100 g 100% ©Dry blend agar and propylene glycol alginate, and disperse in cold liquid.

Agar 0.5 g 0.5% @ Heat to 95 °C/203 °F. Cool until fully set, about 10 min.

Propylene glycol alginate 0.5 g 0.5% @ Puree to fluid gel.

(Protanal Ester BV 4830, @ Reserve.
EMC BioPolymer brand)
White wine (dry) lOOg 100% ® Reduce until almost syrupy, and strain.

Champagne vinegar 30 g 30% ® Measure 20 g of reduction, and reserve.

Shallots, finely minced 30 g 30%

Unsalted butter, small cubed lOOg 100% @ Melt butter.

Liquid soy lecithin 1% ® Whisk into warm butter.

Ig
Wine reduction, from above 20 g 20% @ Blend reserved wine reduction with fluid gel.

Salt to taste (© Slowly pour in warm butter mixture while blending with rotor-stator homogenizer or
other high-shear appliance until fully emulsified.
Lemon juice to taste
® Season, and serve hot with poached lobster (below), or cool and refrigerate.

from page 4-219

POACHED LOBSTER Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Lobstertails, shelled 300 g (four tails) 100% ® Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 55 °C /131 °F bath to core temperature of 54 °C /
129 °F, about 25 min.

Beurre blanc, from above 220 g 73% © Warm beurre blanc in 90 °C/194 °F bath or in small pot over medium heat.

Salt to taste © Slice and season lobster, and serve with warm beurre blanc.

from page 4-219

BEET ELEXICURD adapted from johnny iuzzini Yieids900g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Isomalt (or sugar) 100 g 25% © Dry blend.

Salt 11 g 2.75%

LM Pectin 104 AS 8g 2%
(Genu pectin, CP Kelco brand) {!%)*

Malic acid 4g 1%

Agar(Texturas brand) 3-4 g 0.85%

(0.425%)*

High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 2.6 g 0.65%

LT100, CP Kelco brand) (0.325%)*

Kappa carrageenan (Texturas Ig 0.25%

brand) (0.125%)*

Beet juice 300 g 75% © Disperse isomalt mixture into cold juice.
see page 2-336 © Heat to 95 °C / 203 °F, and hold at that temperature.

Unsalted butter, melted 100 g 25% @ Blend slowly into hot mixture until emulsified.

Beet puree, 400 g 100% © Add hot puree, and hold atsimmerforl min.
broughttosimmer © Pour mixture into plastic-wrap-lined quarter sheet, and allow to set, about 3 min.
see page 55
@ Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
© Cut into desired shapes, and serve hot or cold.

from page 4-219 *(% of total weight of final three ingredients)

296 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

SEA URCHIN BUTTER Yields 200 (<

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sake (dry) 200 g 100% ® Combine in pot, and reduce to 150 g, about 10 min.
Vermouth (dry) 150 g 75% @ Strain.
Shallots, finely minced 50 g 25%
Champagne vinegar 25 g 12.5%
Tarragon leaves, minced Ig 0.5%
Black peppercorns, 0.25 g 0.13%
coarsely ground
Sea urchin tongues 40 g 20% @ Heat reduction to simmer, and then blend in sea urchin tongues and buller utilil fully
Unsalted butter, cubed 30 g 15% emulsified.

Pink grapefruit confit 30 g 15% ® Season butter.

syrup
see page 146
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5-227

OYSTER BUTTER EMULSION Yields 225 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, finely minced 75 g 150% ® Sweat together until tender, about 10 min.
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 100%
see page 4-213
Celery, peeled and 35 g 70%
finely minced
Oyster trimmings, from 35 g 70% @ Add to shallot mixture.
shucked and cleaned @ Sweat for 2 min.
oysters
White vermouth 200 g 400% @ Add to shallot mixture.
White fish stock 150 g 300% ® Simmer until reduced to 150 g.
see page 6
Oysterjuice, 50 g 100%
see page 5-236
Darjeeling tea leaves 7g 14% ® Steep in reduction for3 min.
@ Strain.
® Cool, and refrigerate until use.
Unsalted butter 50 g 100% ® To serve, warm reduction. Blend in butterand creme fralche to form emulsion
Creme frafche 25 g 50%
White wine vinegar 5g 10% @ Season.
Salt to taste

from page 5-236

BLACK BUTTER EMULSION Yields g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown fish stock 400 g 200% ® Reduce to 200 g.

see page 6
Fish stock reduction, 200 g 100% @ Blend black butter, soy sauce, and ink into reduced strxJr.
from above
Black butter, warmed 25 g 12.5%
see page 4-213
white soy sauce 20 g 10%
Squid ink 2-7 g 1.35%
Unsalted butter, cold 40 g 20% 'X Heat black butter emulsion base to low sirr ner.
White miso 20 g 10% 't Blend in butteruntil fully emulsified, and then blend in miso
Lemon juice as needed ® Season with lemon juice.

from page 51j8

EMULSIOi;
BROILED TUNA BELLY WITH MONTPELLIER BUTTER Yields850gofbutter,500goftunawithbutter(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEINC PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended 100 g 22% (T) Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 67 °C /153 °F bath for 30 min.

@ Strain through fine sieve.

Unsalted butter, melted 450 g 100% @ Heat to 65 °C/150 °F, stirring until flakes have dissolved, and remove from heat.

Mono- and diglycerides 54 g 12%

(dice, Texturas brand)
160 Bloom gelatin 18g 4% @ Hand blend into warm butter mixture.

Sodium caseinate 1.8g 0.4% © Blend in cooked egg yolks until smooth.

Garlic chives, pureed 125 g 28% ® Combine, and fold into butter mixture until all components are evenly distributed.
see page 55 @ Cast onto sheet in one layer 1.5 cm / Yb in thick to form Montpellier butter.
Garlic confit 90 g 20%
® Freeze, and cut into cubes.
see page 176

Anchovy paste 30 g 6.7%

Pickled ramp bulb, brunoise 25 g 5.5%

see page 178

Spinach, pureed 25 g 5.5% The great advantage of this recipe

see page 55 is that it allows the butter to stay
chives, finely minced 15 g 3.3% emulsified when hot. So when it
melts into a fluid, it doesn't break
Parsley, finely minced 15 g 3.3%
into an oily slick the way that
Young ginger, finely diced lOg 2.2%
traditional compound butters do.
Salt 9g 2%

Lemon zest 2-5g 0.6%

Cayenne pepper 2g 0.4%

Limejuice 2g 0.4%

Black pepper l-2g 0.3%

Star anise, finely ground 0.7 g 0.2%

Tuna belly, sliced 5 mm / 400 g 89% ® Arrange five slices oftuna on each of fourovenproof plates.
14 in thick @ Dot with cubes of Montpellier butter, and place under broiler for 1 min until butter is
melted, surface is golden, and fish is just warmed through.

Salt to taste @ Season.

from page 4-220

BLOOD PUDDING CUSTARD adapted from heston blumenthal vieidsAsog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Star anise 1.3g 0.19% ® Combine.

Dried ginger 0.5 g 0.07% ©Toast on baking tray at 150 °C/300 °F until fragrant, about 10 min.

Cinnamon stick 0.3 g 0.04% © Cool.

Sichuan peppercorns 0.3g 0.04% ® Crush lightly.

Cardamom seeds, black 0.15 g 0.02% © Place spice blend on cheesecloth.

® Bundle, and tie cloth at top to form sachet.

Heavy cream, stabilized with 690 g 100% @ Heat to 70 “C/160”F.

hydrocolloids (or processed at © Add spice sachet.
ultrahigh temperature)
@ Refrigerate to cool.
® Discard sachet once infused cream is fully cooled.

Fresh pig's blood 160 g 23% @ Combine with infused cream.

@ Transfer to Thermomix fitted with butterfly whisk attachment or to beaker set on
magnetic heating plate with overhead paddle-stirring attachment.
@ Cook in 70 °C/ 160 ‘’FThermomix or beaker just until pudding has thickened to custard,
about 4 h. Emulsion will split if over-reduced.

Salt 8g 1.2% ® Season.

Sugar 5g 0.7% ® Vacuum seal.

® Refrigerate until needed.
® To serve, reheat sous vide in 60 °C/ 140 °F bath.

from page 4-221

298 VOtUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

CONSTRUCTED CHEESES

@ Combine the liquids and other ingredients (except cheese and milk © Check pH. A target final pH is listed in the table. If the emulsion is not
powder), and bring to a simmer. stable, and the pH reading is higherthan listed, it may be necessary to
add more emulsifying salts (sodium citrate orone ofthe phosphates).
@ Gradually whisk in the cheese. Also add milk powder, if called for. Whisk
and melt until the cheese is completely incorporated. © Season the cheese with salt, and serve warm. Or pour it into a lightly oiled
mold, and chill for later use.
@ Simmerfor2 min. This step is crucial in forming a smooth emulsion rather
© Refrigerate. Coverthe cheese surface tightly to preventa skin from
than a grainy, broken liquid.
forming.
@ Puree with an immersion blender until very smooth and silky. Do not
puree fondue; the stringy strands are usually considered desirable.

Best Bets for Constructed Cheeses

Final
Recipe Liquid (scaling) Other ingredients_(scaling) Cheese_(scaling) pH Note
fondue (hot water 80% sodium citrate 4.4% Gruyere or young 100% 5.8 keep hot when
cheese dip) Fino sherry 40% Joha SDS2 sodium 1.2% Fontina, grated serving; thickens

ordry white phosphate (Fibrisol brand) slightly if reheated

wine lambda carrageenan 0.5%

thin cheese water 100% sodium citrate 2.0% Swiss cheese, 100% 5.9 very silky texture; very
spread, hot or whey protein concentrate 1.0% grated good either hot or
cold cold
Joha SDS2 sodium 1.2%
phosphate (Fibrisol brand)
thick cheese water 100% sodium citrate 2.0% Swiss cheese, 100% 6.1 best choice for use in
sauce/spread, whey protein 1.0% grated macaroni and cheese,
hot or cold concentrate and cheese omelet

cheese soup, hot water 160% sodium citrate 5.2% Gruyere 100% 6.1 good pairings: beer
whey protein concentrate 1.3% and Cheddar; dry
Riesling and Gouda;
port and Stilton

cheeseburger water 67% sodium citrate 6.7% Emmental, grated 100% 6.0 cast into mold quickly

cheese slice wheat ale 50% iota carrageenan 3.0% Comte, grated 90% after combining, or
mixture will set
kappa carrageenan 1.0%

cheese slice for water 32% sodium citrate 2.0% Gruyere, grated 100% 5.8 best cut into slices and
baking (raclette disodium phosphate 0.8% skim milk powder 4% baked until melted
analogue) (BK Ciulini brand)
from page 4-223

EMULSIONS 299
CONSTRUCTED VEAL CREAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tapioca starch 11.2g 4.5% ® Combine to make emulsifying blend.

Salt 6g 2.4%

Whey protein isolate 6g 2.4%

lota carrageenan Ig 0.4%

Acetic acid 0.5 g 0.2%

Polysorbate 80 0.4 g 0.16%

Xanthan gum 0.16 g 0.064%

250 g 100% @ Add emulsifying blend to stock, and homogenize thoroughly.

White veal stock, cold
see page 6 @ Warm mixture to 85 “C /185 ”F, and reserve at same temperature.

Rendered veal marrow 80 g 32% @ Warm fat to 85 °C /185 °F.

® Drizzle into hot stock mixture while blending until fully emulsified.

® Serve with blanquette de veau in place of traditional cream sauce.

from page 5-33

THE AMERICAN CHEESE SLICE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

230 g 115% ® Mix dry ingredients, and disperse into water.

Water
Salt 2.5% @ Bring to simmerto hydrate.
5g
Sodium citrate 14g 7%
(2.3%)*

lota carrageenan 6g 3%
(Texturas brand) (0.98%)*

Kappa carrageenan 2g 1%
(Texturas brand) (0.33%)*

200 g 100% @ Add cheese gradually to simmering water mixture, blending constantly with hand
Swiss cheese, grated
90% blender.
White Cheddar, grated 180 g
® Continue blending until texture is fluid and smooth.
® Pour cheese mixture into greased cylindrical mold 7 cm/ 2y4 in. in diameter and at least
18 cm / 7 in long. Complete the transfer very quickly.

® Refrigerate for at least 2 h to set.

@ Remove cheese from mold, and slice to desired thickness.
® Store refrigerated between sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper.

from page 4.224 *(% of total combined weight of water and cheeses)

Yields 215 g
CHEESE IN ATUBE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sodium citrate 2% ® Combine, and bringto simmer.

2g
Whey protein concentrate 1g 1%

Sodium phosphate 1.2g 1.2%

(Joha SDS2, Fibrisol brand)

Water 100 g 100%

50% @ Gradually whisk cheese into hot liquid until fully incorporated. Simmer for 2 mm.
Aged Gouda, finely grated 50 g
Monterey jack, finely grated 50 g 50% ® Puree with hand blender until smooth.

Jalapeho, finely minced lOg 10% @ Fold into warm cheese mixture.

Cayenne pepper powder 2g 2%

Salt to taste ® Adjust seasoning.

® Transfer to squeeze bottle, and pipe into unused empty paint tubes. Reserve chilled.

from page 4.225

VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

300
CHEESY WHIP Yields 480 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Sodium citrate 4g 2% ® Dry blend powders.
Whey protein concentrate 2g 1%
Sodium phosphate 2.4 g 1.2%
{Joha SDS2, Fibrisol brand)
Water 200 g 100% @ Disperse powder mixture in cold water, and bring to simmer.
Gruyere, finely grated 200 g 100% @ Gradually whisk cheese into hot liquid until fully incorporated. Simmerfor2 min.
@ Puree with hand blender until completely smooth.
Whole milk 80 g 40% ® Blend into cheese mixture. Cool completely.
Salt to taste ® Season generously to compensate for aeration, and pour into 1 1 whipping siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Shake vigorously, and dispense to serve.
from page 4-225

CHEDDAR SOUP Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown butter 20 g 20% ® Melt butter in pot, and add shallots, garlic, and bay leaf.
see page 4-213
@ Cook over medium heat until translucent, about 7 min.
Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 15 g 15%
Shallots, thinly sliced 100 g 100%
Wheat beer(Hefeweizen-style) 160 g 160% @ Deglaze pot with beer, and reduce until pan is dry.
Sodium citrate 5g 5% @ Dissolve sodium citrate and whey protein in water, and add to pot.
Whey protein concentrate 1.3g 1.3% ® Bringto simmer.
Distilled water 160 g 160%
Aged Cheddar, finely grated lOOg 100% ® Gradually whisk into simmering liquid until completely incorporated.
@ Puree with hand blender until smooth. Pass through fine sieve.
Salt to taste ® Season and serve, or chill over ice and refrigerate until use.
from page 4-225

EMULSIONS 301
EGG EMULSIONS

REMOULADE SAUCE Yieids200g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Mayonnaise 90 g 100% (T) Combine.
store-boughtorsee page303
@ Refrigerate.
Lemon juice 55 g 60%
Whole-grain mustard 31 g 35%

Dijon mustard 17g 20%

Garlic clove, crushed 4g 4.5%

Green bird's eye chili 3.5 g 4%

(fresh), minced
Worcestershire sauce 2.5 g 2.5%

Hot sauce 2g 2%

Hungarian sweet paprika 0.5 g 0.5%

Celery, peeled and finely 30 g 35% (D Fold into mayonnaise mixture just before serving.
minced
Flat-leaf parsley, minced 4g 4.5%
Celery leaf, minced 2g 2%

Chives, minced 2g 2%

Black pepper, coarsely 0.5 g 0.5%

crushed
Salt to taste @ Season remoulade.

from page 575

WHITE COLESLAW Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Buttermilk 60 g 40% ® Blend thoroughly to make dressing; use rotor-stator homogenizer, if available, for richer
Grapeseed oil 29 g 19% texture.

White balsamic vinegar 20 g 13.5%

Egg yolk, cooked sous 19g 12.5%
vide, at 65 °C/149°F
for35 min
Rendered bacon fat 9g 6%
Dijon mustard 7g 5%
Sugar 3g 2% (D Season dressing, and reserve.
Salt to taste
Savoy cabbage, fine 150 g 100% @ Toss cabbage in salt.
julienne @ Let soften fori min.
Salt Ig 0.5% ® Toss with dressing.
Green apple, small dice 120 g 80% ® Arrange on coleslaw, and serve immediately.
Horseradish root, 2g 1.5%
finely grated
Celery seeds, 1.5g 1%
lightly toasted
from page 572

302 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

SEA URCHIN TARTAR SAUCE Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Eggs (shelled) 60 g 71% @ Vacuum seal.
@ Cooksous vide in 65 °C/149 °F bath for30 min.
@ Chill in ice-water bath.

® Peel.
Lime juice 7g 8.5% © Blend with cooked eggs.
Dijon mustard 5g 6%
Crapeseed oil 85 g 100% © Drizzle into egg mixture while blending, until fully emulsified.
@ Reserve.
Sea urchin tongues 75 g 88% ® Pass through fine sieve.
® Blend into egg emulsion.
Cornichons, finely 28 g 33% @ Fold into sauce.
minced
Scallions, finely minced 20 g 24%

Garlic chives, fine 7.5 g 9%

brunoise
Parsley, finely minced 7g 8.5%
Chervil, finely minced 4.7 g 5.5%
Tarragon, finely minced 1.8g 2%

Salt 1.5g 2% ® Season sauce.

Black pepper 0.5 g 0.6% @ Refrigerate until use.
Cayenne pepper 0.3 g 0.4%

from page 5-145

BASIC MAYONNAISE Yields 470 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks, blended 45 g 15% ® Vacuum seal, and cooksous vide in 67 °C/153 °F bath for30 min.

Water 75 g 25% © Whisk together, and puree with cooked egg yolks until smooth.

Dijon mustard 21 g 7%

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.7 g 0.23%

CP Kelco brand) (0.15%)*

Crapeseed oil 300 g 100% © Drizzle slowly into egg mixture while blending until mixture is fully emulsified.

Lemon juice 15 g 5% ® Season.

White wine vinegar lOg 3.3% © Refrigerate.

Salt to taste

from page 4-226 *(% of total combined weight of all other ingredients)

HOT EGG MAYONNAISE adapted from1 FERRAN ADRIA Yields490 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole eggs 130 g 65% © Blend until smooth.

Egg yolks 60 g 30% @ Vacuum seal, and cook in 65 °C/149 °F bath for 35 min.

Dijon mustard 35 g 17.5%

Sunflower oil (or other 200 g 100% @ Combine.

neutral oil) ® Blend with warm egg mixture until emulsified.
Extra-virgin olive oil 50 g 25%

Salt to taste © Season.

Sherry vinegar to taste © Pour contents intol 1 whipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
@ Hold filled siphon in 62 °C/144 °F bath until ready to serve.
® Dispense mayonnaise from siphon, and serve with grilled asparagus or poached fish.

from page 4-227

EMULSIONS 303
SOFT-BOILED EGG AND GARLIC EMULSION inspired by michel bras Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Garlic confit, pressure cooked 30 g 30% @ Puree until smooth.

see page 176
(D Pass through fine sieve.
white wine vinegar 25 g 25%

Whole eggs 100 g (about 100% (D Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 67 °C/153 °F bath for 35 min.
two large) @ Blend with garlic puree until smooth.

Crapeseed oil lOOg 100% ® Drizzle in slowly while blending into egg-garlic mixture until fully emulsified.
Olive oil lOOg 100%
Walnut oil 50 g 50%

Salt to taste ® Season.

Green onions, 30 g 30% @ Fold in, and refrigerate.

very thinly sliced
from page 4-227

SOUS VIDE LEMON CURD Yields 850 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg yolks 120 g 30% ® Vacuum seal, and cook in 65 °C /149 °F bath for 35 min.

(D Cool and reserve.

Sugar 300 g 75% @ Bringto boilto dissolve sugar and acid.
Water 120 g 30% @ Cool to room temperature.
Citric acid 8g 2%
Unsalted butter, room 400 g 100% ® Blend butter with egg yolks and sugar syrup until smooth.
temperature ® Add more essential oil to taste. Other oils besides lemon may be used.
Lemon essential oil (optional) 0.25% @ Vacuum seal.
Salt 0.4 g 0.1% ® Refrigerate until firm, 4-24 h.

from page 4-227

BACON JAM Yields 375 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Isomalt 50 g 50% @ Combine, and heat to 90 °C/195 °F until fully dissolved.

Sugar 40 g 40% @ Cool and reserve.
Water 30 g 30%
Maple syrup (Grade B) 30 g 30%
Egg yolks 75 g 75% @ Vacuum seal, and cook in 66 °C/151 °F bath for 30 min.
@ Strain through fine sieve.
® Blend into cooled syrup.

Rendered bacon fat, warm lOOg 100% ® Drizzle slowly into egg syrup while blending constantly until fully emulsified.

@ Refrigerate.
Bacon strips, finely diced 120 g 120% ® Fry or bake in 175 °C / 350 °F oven until crisp, about 25 min.
® Drain on absorbent paper towels. Cool, and store in dry, cool place.
Salt to taste ® Season jam with salt.
Liquid caramel coloring as needed @ Add coloring to achieve desired shade.
(optional) @ Fold in 50 g of bacon bits, and serve with warm biscuits (see page 5-77).
® If mixture has been refrigerated, it should be tempered for about 20 min before use.
from page 4-229

304 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

DEEP-FRIED HOLLANDAISE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 1.2 kg (40 pieces)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Unsalted butter, melted 640 g 640% ® Soften gelatin leaves in cold water.

160 Bloom gelatin sheet 60 g 60% @ Drain, and dissolve gelatin in butter.

@ Reserve warm.

Low-acyl gel Ian 3.5 g 3.5% ® Dry blend.

(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
Sodium hexametaphosphate 2g 2%

Citric acid 0.6 g 0.6%

Water 170 g 170% ® Add blended powders to pot of water.

© Bring to boil, and remove from heat.
@ Pour into container.
® Refrigerate until set, about 5 min.

Eggyolks, blended lOOg 100% ® Puree gel with yolks until fluid, and reserve.

Water llOg 110% ® Whisk to combine.

Ultra-Sperse M lOg 10% @ Blend into yolk gel mixture until smooth.
(National Starch brand) @ Drizzle in reserved warm butter while continuously blending to make hoilandaise.

Lemon juice to taste @ Season hoilandaise.

Salt to taste @ Cast into mold 2.5 cm / 1 in thick.

@ Refrigerate until set, about 1 h.

@ Cut set gel into cubes.

All-purpose wheat flour 100 g 100% @ Dredge cubes evenly in flour, and shake off excess.

Eggs, blended 100 g 100% @ Coat cubes evenly with blended eggs.

English muffins, dried 200 g 200% ® Roll cubes in bread crumbs. Shake off any excess. Repeat breading procedure once.
and ground into powder (four muffins) @ freeze for 30 min to harden crusts.

frying oil as needed @ Deep-fry cubes in 190 °C/375 °Foil until golden, about IVa min.

@ Drain on papertowels.

from page 4-228

SOUS VIDE INSTANT HOLLANDAISE INSPIRED BY DANIEL HUMM Yields345g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

If you choose to use stock rather
White wine (dry) 100 g 133% ® Combine.
than water, consider the ingredient
Shallots, finely minced 50 g 67% @ Reduce to syrup-like consistency.
for which the hoilandaise is being
White vinegar 35 g 47% @ Strain. prepared: use fish stock for fish,
@ Measure 20 g of wine reduction. poultry stock for poultry, and so on.
® Blend thoroughly with wine reduction. for stock recipes, see page 2-296.
Eggyolks 75 g 100%
(four large) (28%)* © Vacuum seal.
Stock or water 20 g 27% @ Cook in 65 °C/149 °F bath for30 min.

Unsalted butter, melted 225 g 300% ® Remove cooked egg yolk mixture from bag, and
blend in butter mixture until fully emulsified. Alternatively, the hoilandaise base
5.3% ® Season. can be cooked sous vide in a 63 °C/
Salt 4g
145 °F bath to produce a lighter
Malic acid 1.3% @ Transfer to 1 1 siphon.
Ig foam, or in a slightly warmer
® Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and
67 °C /153 °F bath for a denser
shake vigorously.
foam.
@ Flold siphon in 60 °C/ 140 °F bath.

Two-stage fried egg four eggs ® Garnish eggs with hoilandaise.

see page 2
*{% oftotatweight of wine reduction, stock, and unsaited butter)

EMULSIONS 305
OTHER EMULSIONS

BLACK OLIVE PUREE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

160 Bloom gelatin sheet 2g 4% @ Soften gelatin in cold water.

(D Drain, and set aside.

Black olive juice 50 g 100% (1) Heat 10 g of olive juice.

(from 150 g pitted @ Melt softened gelatin in warm juice.
Kalamata olives)
© Add remaining40 gofjuice, and mix.

Sucrose esters 0.5 g 1% ® Blend into juice mixture.

(Sucro, Texturas brand) @ Set aside.

Olive oil 50 g 100% ® Warm oil to 65 “C /149 °F.

Mono- and diglycerides 0.5 g 1% ® Dissolve dice flakes in oil.
(dice, Texturas brand) (“) Add oil mixture slowly to juice until it emulsifies and forms puree.

@ Refrigerate puree until thickened, about 2 h.

from page 4-230

THICKENED OIL ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Extra-virgin olive oil lOOg 100% ® Heat to 65 °C/149 °F in saucepan.

(or other oil)
Mono- and diglycerides 7g 7% @ Add, and stirto dissolve.
(dice, Texturas brand) @ Cool oil to room temperature.
@ Transfer to bowl held in ice-water bath.

® Whisk until cold, opaque, and thickened to consistency of mayonnaise.

® Serve as spread, or use as garnish.
@ Thickened oil can also be transferred to 11 whipping siphon, charged with two cartridges
of nitrous oxide, and dispensed to form thick oil foam.

from page 4-230

INVINCIBLE VINAIGRETTE Yields 325 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Champagne vinegar 80 g 80% ® Combine, and heat to 60 °C/140 °F.

Quince vinegar 35 g 35% ® Blend over heat until ingredients are completely incorporated.

Pear juice 20 g 20%

Dijon mustard 5g 5%
Propylene glycol alginate 0.98 g 0.98%
(Protanal Ester BV 4830, (0.3%)*
FMC BioPolymer brand)
Extra-virgin olive oil lOOg 100% @ Combine oils.
Pistachio oil 55 g 55% @ Drizzle slowly into vinegar mixture while blending; process until emulsified.
Walnut oil 30 g 30%
Liquid soy lecithin 1.85 g 1.85%
(NOW brand) (1%)**
Salt to taste ® Season.
from page 4-231 *(% of total weight of all ingredients); **(% of total weight of oils)

Use tFie above recipe as a template for any basic vinaigrette. Different oils Fora low-fat version of this vinaigrette, replace 100 g of oil with 100 g of
and acids can be used to create a variety of effects. The vinaigrette is flavorful liquid, 1 g of Ultra-Sperse 5, and 0.2 g of xanthan gum. The overall
completely heat stable, so it can be made with animal fats or dairy fat for use flavorwill be more acidic, so the liquid used should be quite flavorful orthe
in warm salads, eggs, and cooked meats. quantity of vinegar used should be reduced.

306 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

SPOT PRAWNS WITH FOIE GRAS NAGE inspired bythierry rautureau Yielclsl.2 kg (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Brown vegetable stock 250 g 100% @ Dry blend propylene glycol alginate and salt.
see page 6
@ Disperse powder blend into cold stock.
Salt 3g 1.2%
@ Heat to 60 °C /140 °F to hydrate.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.2 g 0.08%
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
EMC BioPolymer brand)
Raw foie gras, cubed 40 g 16% @ Blend with warm stock until fully emulsified.

White miso paste 15 g 6%

Chervil, chopped 8g 3.2% ® Add, and steep nage fori min.

® Strain.

Lime juice to taste @ Season nage, and reserve warm.

Salt to taste

Spot prawns 12 prawns about 290% ® Steam in combi oven at 60 '’C/140 °Fand 100% relative humidity for 12 min;
(about 720 g) or vacuum seal, and cook in 60 '’C /140 °F bath for 12 min.

Fresh lychees, peeled and 60 g 24% ® Divide prawns amongfour bowls.

seeded (or canned) @ Garnish.
Pink Lady apples, peeled and 60 g 24% @ Pour warm nage around each portion.
finely shaved with mandoline
Peanuts, roasted and crushed lOg 4%

Anise hyssop, small leaves 3g 1.2%

from page 4-233

EGGLESS CITRUS CURD inspired by PASCAL BARBOT YieldsBOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lemons, washed, whole 300 g 230% ® Vacuum seal in retort pouch, or place in large Mason jar.
@ Place pouch or jar in pressure cooker filled with 2.5 cm / I in of water.
® Pressure-cook for 30 min at gauge pressure ofl bar/15 psi, and cool.
® Remove lemons from pouch or jar, and puree.
® Pass through fine sieve, and measure 130 g of puree.

Lemon puree, from above 130 g 100% ® Mix together, and reserve.

Grapefruit juice 100 g 77%

Lime juice 60 g 46%

Lemon juice 50 g 38%

Lemon zest, finely grated 14 g 11%

Grapefruit zest, finely grated 6g 4.6%

Lime zest, finely grated 2g 1.5%

Water 130 g 100% @ Combine, and boil for3 min.

Honey 35 g 27% ® Stir in citrus puree.

Sugar 30 g 23% @ Bring mixture to simmer.

Propylene glycol alginate 5g 3.8%

(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
EMC BioPolymer brand)

Salt 5g 3.8%

Unsalted butter, cubed 200 g 154% @ Blend or whisk butter cubes into hot citrus mixture in small batches until fully emulsified.

® Strain through fine sieve, and refrigerate for at least 3 h.

from page 4-234

EMULSIONS 307
MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE Yields 700 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Sous vide vegetable stock 300 g 100% (T) Whisk together.

(orotherflavorful liquid)
see page 13

sherry vinegar 60 g 20%

Polysorbate 80 1.5g 0.5% @ Combine.

Xanthan gum 1.5g 0.5% @ Disperse in stock mixture, and blend until fully hydrated.

Extra-virgin olive oil 150 g 50% @ Slowly blend into stock mixture until emulsified.

Walnut oil 130 g 43%

Grain mustard 60 g 20% ® Fold in.

Black peppercorns, to taste ® Season.

finely crushed
Salt to taste

from page 4-231

SAUCE VINJAUNE Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING* PROCEDURE

Chicken legs and wings, 400 g 200% (i) Saute chicken pieces in pressure cooker until golden.
from above, cut into @ Drain and reserve.
3 cm /VA in pieces
Clarified unsalted butter 75 g 37.5%
Leeks, whites only. 100 g 50% (1) Cook together until vegetables are tender, about 30 min.
thinly sliced
Carrot, peeled and thinly 50 g 25%
sliced
Chicken carcass. 50 g 25%
chopped and blanched
Shallot, thinly sliced 50 g 25%
Brown chicken stock 450 g 225% @ Combine with browned wings and cooked vegetable mixture in pressure cooker.
see page 6
© Cook at gauge pressure ofl bar/IS psi for 0/2 h.
Thyme 5g 2.5%
© Cool.
Bay leaf 2g 1%
@ Strain stock through fine sieve, and reserve.

Vin jaune du Jura 120 g 60% © Reduce to 30 g, aboutl2 min.

(or Fino sherry) ® Add reserved stock.
@ Reduce mixture to 200 g.

® Cool.
Chicken stock reduction. 200 g 100% @ Disperse PGA into stock reduction.
from above @ Bring to simmer to fully hydrate.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.4 g 0.2% ® Blend chicken fat into stock reduction until fully emulsified.
(Protanal Ester BV4830,
EMC Biopolymer brand)
Rendered chicken fat 40 g 20%
Lemon juice to taste @ Season and serve, or cool and refrigerate until use.
Salt to taste
from page 5116 *(% of total weight of stock reduction)

308 VOLUME 6 KITCHEN MANUAL

EGGLESS MAYONNAISE Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200 g 100% ® Disperse agar in water.
Agar(Texturas brand) l-2g 0.6% @ Bring to boil, and hold fori min to fully hydrate.
@ Cool completely until set, about5 min.
Sucrose esters 2g 1% @ Puree with set gel until smooth.
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Olive oil 200 g 100% © Dissolve dice flakes in oil heated to 50 °C /122 °F.
Mono- and diglycerides 2g 1% ® Gradually blend oil into cold agar mixture until emulsified.
(dice, Texturas brand) @ Cool at room temperature.
Salt to taste © Refrigerate for 2 h before serving.
from page 4-232

SPICE MIX EMULSION Yields 250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Unsalted butter 24 g 20% © Prepare ingredients as noted.
Garlic, finely minced 12 g 10% @ Saute together over medium heat until fragrant.
Ginger, finely minced 6g 5%
Anchovy fillets, finely minced 5g 4%
Mussel juice 120 g 100% @ Deglaze pan, and reduce mixture to 100 g.
see page 37

Manzanilla sherry 48 g 40%

Xanthan gum 0.2 g 0.17% @ Blend into reduction.
(0.75%)*
Extra virgin olive oil 30 g 25% © Blend into reduction until emulsified.
Fish spice mix 20 g 17% ® Season emulsion, and serve or refrigerate until use.
see page 51

champagne vinegar to taste

from page 5-155 *(% of total weight of mussel-sherry reduction and olive oil)

OLIVE OIL "MARGARINE" Yields 420 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 80 g 31% ® Dry blend agar and propylene glycol alginate.
Propylene glycol alginate 1.85 g 0.7% @ Disperse powder mixture into cold water.
(Protanal Ester BV 4830, {0.44%)* © Bring mixture to boil to hydrate.
EMC BioPolymer brand)
@ Cool at room temperature until set.
Agar (Texturas brand) Ig 0.4%
© Puree gel until smooth to form fluid gel.
{0.24%)*

Pregelatinized starch paste 80 g 31% © Blend into fluid gel.

see page 200

olive oil 260 g 100% © Warm to 30 °C / 85 °F.

© Blend oil gradually into fluid gel slowly until emulsified.

Salt to taste © Season and chill.

from page 4-235 *{% of total weight of other ingredients)

EMULSIONS 309
CONSTRUCTED CREAMS

PISTACHIO GELATO vieidsi.ikg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Water 680 g 100% @ Blend until smooth.

Pistachio butter 210 g 30.9%

see page 54 If using a Pacojet in step 6,
Sugar 155 g 22.8% omit the locust bean gum.

Pistachio oil 102 g 15%

Salt 7g 1%

Locust bean gum (POR/A2 3g 0.44% @ Dry blend, and disperse in pistachio mixture.
Powder, TIC Gums brand) (D Warm to 60 °C /140 °F.
Lambda carrageenan 2g 0.3% @ Homogenize until very smooth, and cool.
(Texturas brand)
® Season with more salt, if desired.
Polysorbate 80 0.8 g 0.12%
® Churn, and reserve in freezer; or freeze in Pacojet container, and pacotize to serve.
Glycerol monostearate 0-15 g 0.02%

from page 4-236

HAZELNUT "CREAM" Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 250 g 100% ® Dry blend hydrocolloids otherthan polysorbate.

Tapioca starch 11.2 g 4.48% @ Disperse in cold water, and blend in polysorbate.

Whey protein isolate 6g 2.4% ® Homogenize thoroughly with commercial blender or rotor-stator homogenizer.

Polysorbate 80 0.4 g 0,16% if available.

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.16 g 0.06% @ Warm to 85 °C/185 °F, and hold mixture at that temperature.

CP Kelco brand)
Roasted-hazelnut oil 80 g 32% ® Warm oil to 85 °C /185 °F.
see page 41 (or store-bought)
® Drizzle into mixture while shearing at full speed until fully emulsified, and then cool.

Salt to taste @ Season cream, and vacuum seal.

® Store refrigerated; serve hot or cold.

from page 4-236

JUS GRAS Yields 280 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shallots, minced 80 g 40% ® Saute shallots until golden, about 5 min.

Neutral oil 20 g 10%

Fino sherry 100 g 50% @ Add to pan of sauteed shallots.

White port (dry) 50 g 25% @ Reduce mixture to glaze.

Brown chicken stock 450 g 225% @ Combine with glaze in pot.

see page 6 ® Reduce until syrupy, to about one-third of original weight.
Sous vide chicken juice 200 g 100%
® Strain, and measure 200 g of reduced jus base.
see page 34
Reduced jus base. 200 g 100% @ Disperse emulsifiers into reduced jus base.
from above ® Warm to hydrate PGA, and blend in commercial blender or rotor-stator homogenizer
Propylene glycol alginate 0.6 g 0.3% until very smooth.
(Protanal Ester BV 4830,
EMC BioPolymer brand)
Eiquid soy lecithin 0.4 g 0.2%
(NOW brand)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.4 g 0.2%
CP Kelco brand)
Rendered chicken fat, 80 g 40% ® Drizzle slowly into warm jus, blending constantly until fully emulsified.
or butter, melted
see page 3-145
Salt to taste @ Season and serve. Or cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

Eemon juice to taste

from page 4-237

310 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

NANOEMULSIONS

CHILLED CHICKEN -NOODLE SOUP Yields 1.2 kg (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chicken thigh meat, ground 600 g 200% @ Puree until smooth.
White chicken stock 300 g 100% @ Pass through fine sieve.
see page 6 and page 11
@ Divide into 100 g portions.
Salt lOg 3.3%
@ Vacuum seal each portion separately, and roll evenly into layerl.5 mm /Me in thick.
Activa RM 8g 2.7%
@ Cook sous vide in 62 ‘’C/144 °F bath for 12 min.
Sodium tripolyphosphate 0.15 g 0.05%
© Refrigerate sheets for 3 h.
(Nutrifos 088, ICE Performance
Products brand) @ Remove from sous vide bags, and cut chilled sheets into noodles 3 mm in thick.
yielding about 100 g per portion. Reserve.
Gum arable 30 g 10% ® Homogenize until smooth.
Bay essential oil 15 g 5%
Thyme essential oil 15 g 5%
Consomme madrilene 300 g 100% ® Blend 1.2 g of gum-oil mixture into cold consomme. Liquid will remain clear.
see page 42

Salt to taste ® Season consomme.

Tarragon leaves (small) to taste ©Divide noodles among four bowls, forming nest in each.
Thyme leaves to taste @ Pour consomme over noodles. Garnish chilled soup with leaves.
from page 4-238

GINGER COLA Yields 340 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Othersodas can be made in
Distilled water, cold 200 g 100% ® Combine, and steep at room temperature for
a similar way by using a nano¬
Ginger, peeled and grated 35 g 17.5% 20 min.
emulsion with essential oils.
@ Strain, and reserve 125 g of ginger water. Stock oran infusion can be used
Ginger, thinly sliced and 300 g 150% @ Combine, and simmer until sugar is dissolved. in place ofthe water.
blanched three times in boiling @ Remove from heat, and steep at room
water to remove bitterness temperature for20 min.
Distilled water 200 g 100% © Cool completely, and reserve 200 g of ginger
Sugar 120 g 60% syrup. "OpenCola" is a commercial drink
Gum arable 20 g 10% ® Blend to form smooth essential oil base. with a published recipe (available
Brominated vegetable oil 2.5% on the Internet) said to be inspired
5g
by Coca-Cola. You can use that rec¬
Lemon essential oil 5g 2.5%
ipe with the techniques described
Sweet orange essential oil 5g 2.5%
here to make your own cola or to
Vanilla extract 2.5g 1.25% experiment with other ingredients.
Ginger syrup, from above 200 g 100% @ Blend together until combined. Ferran Adria, Marc Veyrat, Jean-
Georges Vongerichten, and a num¬
Ginger water, from above 125 g 62.5% ® Pour mixture into soda siphon.
ber of otherchefs have featured
Lime juice 16.5g 8.25 g ® Vent with one cartridge of carbon dioxide, and
homemade sodas in their
Liquid caramel color 1.25 g 0.62% then charge with two cartridges.
restaurants.
® Refrigerate siphon on ice for at least 3 h before
Essential oil base, from above 0.33 g 0.16%
serving.
(0.7%)*
from page 4-239 *{% of total weight of ginger water and ginger syrup)

EMULSIONS 311
FROTHS, AIRS, AND BUBBLES

@ Select a texture, and choose your foaming agents. See the table below are relative to the weight of the liquid (for example, whip in 1.25 g of soy
for our recommendations. lecithin for every 100 g of apple juice to make a dry, coarse apple air).
(D Combine the foaming agents and the liquid. Many flavorful liquids, (D Process, usingthe tool suggested in the table, until the desired texture
including fruit juices and vinegars, foam well. The proportions given appears. All foams are heat stable unless otherwise noted.

Best Bets for Airs, Bubbles, and Froths

Texture Foaming agents (scaling)* Equipment Notes Example See page
dry, coarse airs de-oiled soy lecithin 1.25% handheld milkwhipper drain for 4 min mignonette air next
powder
Sucro 1.2% electric whisk milk foams
(Texturas brand)
160 Bloom gelatin 2% electric whisk disperse cold, then heat dairy foams
Activa RM 1% for 10 min at 40 °C/104‘'E

wet, coarse glucose syrup DE 40 10% fish tank bubbler use liquids with a pH of honey bubbles 314
bubbles albumin powder 2% at least 4.5

xanthan gum 0.1%

wet, coarse froths de-oiled soy lecithin 1% hand blender allow liquid to drain for citrus air below
xanthan gum 0.2% 2 min before serving

glucose syrup DE 40 8% handheld milkwhipper light sweetness from fruit and vegetable
de-oiled soy lecithin 0.7% glucose juice foams
powder
butter, melted 10%-20% hand blender foamy butter sauce
Sucro 1.2%
(Texturas brand)
whey protein isolate 2% handheld milkwhipper heat-stable up to foamy broths, light
sodium caseinate 0.5% 85 °C/185'’F soups

sodium caseinate 1% handheld milkwhipper heat-stable up to light, beer-like

de-oiled soy lecithin 1% 85 °C/185°F foams

Sucro 1.2% handheld milkwhipper heat-stable up to latte style foams, 315

(Texturas brand) 85 °C/185°F light milk shake
whey protein isolate 1% foams
from page 4-264 *(set weight of liquid to 100%)

CITRUS AIR 1 NSPIRED BY MARC VEYRAT Yields 80 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lime juice 120 g 100% @ Combine and blend u ntil sugar, lecithin, and Marc Veyrat found that increasing
Lemon juice 80 g 67% xanthan are dissolved the viscosity of lecithin foams

@ Whip with handheld foaming wand or hand prevents them from losing so much
Sugar 8g 6.7%
blender until sufficient foam is formed. water and therefore gives them
Salt 2g 1.7%
a better final texture and appear¬
@ Allow to drain for 2 min for foam to stabilize.
De-oiled soy lecithin powder 2g 1.7% ance. This can be done either with
(Lecite, Texturas brand) {!%)* a hydrocolloid thickenersuch as
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.4 g 0.3% xanthan gum or with dissolved
CP Kelco brand) {0.2%)* solids such as sugar.
from page 4-265 *(% of total weight of lime and lemon juices)

312 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

OYSTERS WITH MIGNONETTE AIR INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA Yields 100g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 200 g 50% ® Blend.
Sherry vinegar 150 g 37.5% @ Refrigerate fori h to macerate.
Seaweed vinegar 50 g 12.5% @ Strain, yielding 400 g of vinegar mixture.
see page 23 Soy lecithin-based "airs" are
considered dry foams because
Shallots, thinly sliced 50 g 12.5%
most of the waterthat is used
White balsamic vinegar 50 g 12.5% to create the foam drains away
Black pepper, coarsely ground 5g 1.25% very quickly. Once the water
Salt to taste drains away, there is very little left
but a coarse matrix of bubbles.
Vinegar mixture, from above 400 g 100% ® Blend until lecithin powder is fully dissolved.
These types of foams should always
De-oiled soy lecithin powder 5g 1.25% ©Whipwith hand blender or handheld whipping be made with very intense flavors
(Lecite, Texturas brand) wand until thick and coarse foam forms. for their impact to be more than
© Allow foam to drain for 2 min to stabilize. simply aesthetic.
Kumamoto oysters four oysters @ Garnish with foam.
from page 4'265

PARSLEY EOAM Yields265g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Parsleyjuice 265 g 100% @ Blend together until powder is thoroughly incorporated.
(from about
500 g parsley)
Deoiled soy lecithin 4g 1.5%
powder
Salt 1g 0.4% @ Season juice.
© Foam juice with immersion blender or handheld wand mixer (see page 4-252 for step by step).
from page 5-231

KANPACHI SASHIMI WITH CITRUS EOAM inspired by QUIQUE DACOSTA Yields320g(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White fish stock 500 g 100% ® Combine.
see page 6 @ Pleat stock to 60 °C /140 °F, and hold forl2 min.
Lemongrass, finely 30 g 6%
© Strain infused stock into open container.
chopped
® Cool completely.
Lemon verbena (fresb) 7g 1.4%
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaves 5 g 1%
Lemon zest 3-5 g 0.7%
White peppercorns, 0.75 g 0.15%
crushed
Sucrose esters 1.5g 0.3% © Blend into cold, infused stock.
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
Salt to taste ® Season stock generously.
Lemon juice to taste © Foam citrus-seasoned stock with fish tank bubbler.
Kanpachi (raw), thinly 200 g 40% ® Arrange fish on center of four plates, 50 g on each plate.
sliced
Kumquats, thinly sliced 40 g 8% @ Garnish.
Mint leaves, torn 4g 0.8%
Sous vide ponzu 50 g 10% @ Pouraround fish.
see page 22 @ Garnish each portion with citrus foam.
from page 4-269

FOAMS 313
GEODUCK WITH SEAWATER EOAM Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Geoduck juice, reserved 200 g 100% @ Blend with hand blender until powders are fully incorporated.
from shucking
(D Whip with handheld whipping wand until stiff seawater foam forms at liquid's surface.
Water 50 g 25%
White soy sauce 35 g 17.5%
Sodium caseinate 2.5 g 1.25%
(/%)*
Deoiled soy lecithin 2.5g 1.25%
powder (Texturas brand) {!%)*
Geoduck siphon, cleaned, 200 g 25% @ Slice thinly.
peeled, and trimmed
@ Divide equally, and arrange on center of each plate.
see page 5-200

Ficoi'de glaciale (ice plant) 40 g 5% © Garnish.

Pickled ramps, thinly 40 g 5% ® Spoon some seawaterfoam on top of each portion.
sliced
see page 178

from page 4-266 *{% of total weight of water and geoduckjuice)

EDIBLE SOAP BAR WITH HONEY BUBBLES adapted from andoni luis aduriz Yields400g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 100% ® Blend fully with hand blender.
Wildflower honey 150 g 15% ©Strain.
Albumin powder 20 g 2% © Vacuum seal to remove accumulated bubbles.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, Ig 0.1% @ Refrigerate honey bubble base.
CP Kelco brand)
Salt 0.5 g 0.05%
All-purpose flour, sifted nog 11% © Arrange in thin, even layer on baking sheet.

® Bake at 170 °C/340 °F until golden brown, about 20 min.

Flazelnut flour 40 g 4% © Combine, and whisk into warm, browned all-purpose flour.
Sugar 30 g 3%
Salt 3g 0.3%
Rendered ham fat, melted 40 g 4% © Combine.
Cocoa butter, melted 30 g 3% @ Fold into flour mixture.
Olive oil 30 g 3% @ Pour into small rectangular silicone molds that resemble bars of soap.
® Freeze "soap" bars completely, about 30 min,

® To serve, transfer honey bubble base to open container.

® Place aquarium bubblertube at bottom of container.

©Turn on bubbler, and leave until desired amount of bubbles have accumulated, about 5 min.
©Arrange soap bar in center of each plate, and garnish with bubbles.
from page 4-267

SAEERON HONEY FOAM Yields 150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water, warm 100 g 100% ® Combine.
Saffron threads 0.4 g 0.4% © Infuse for 10 min at room temperature.
Honey 36 g 36% © Combine with saffron water.
Deoiled soy lecithin 1.4g 1.4% ® Blend until completely incorporated.
powder
Whey protein isolate 0.2 g 0.2%
Salt to taste © Season generously to compensate for aeration.

© Whip with handheld whipping wand until abundantfoam forms on surface.

© Allow to drain fori min before using.
from page 5-94

314 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 LYCHEE AND LIME SODA Yields 200 g (four servings)
INSPIRED BY SANG-HOON DECEIMBRE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Lycheejuice, clarified 200 g 500% @ Season lycheejuice.
Eructose to taste @ Reserve refrigerated.
Malic acid to taste
Dextrose 40 g 100% @ Combine to form lime base.
Baking soda 15 g 37.5% @ Grind into fine powderwith mortarand pestle.
Citric acid 15 g 37.5%
You can use store-bought lychee
Lime essential oil 0.05 g 0.1%
juice if you wish, but we prefer
Water 7g 17.5% @ Add slowly to lime base, incorporating small amount fresh. For methods of clarifying
at a time; make sure mixture does not foam. fresh fruit juice, see page 2-351.
@ Pack into circular molds (2.5 cm / I in. in diameter and
2.5 mm /1 in high). This will produce 3 g tablets. Store
in cool, dry place.
Lime tablets, from above This dish makes tablets reminiscent
fourtablets @ To serve, pour 50 g of lycheejuice into each of four
of Alka-Seltzer, which produces a
serving glasses.
fizzy drink when dissolved in water.
® Add one lime tablet to each glass; tablet fizzes as it
dissolves.

® Allow to dissolve completely before consuming soda.

from page 4-268

TOMATO VINEGAR FOAM Yields 125 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Tomato water 1 kg 100% ® Reduce to 125 g.
see page 40

white wine vinegar 150 g 15% @ Add to reduced tomato water.

Salt 2.5g 0.25% @ Cool.
Saffron threads Ig 0.1% ® Vacuum seal.
© Refrigerate for 12 h to infuse.
Whey protein isolate 2g 0.2% ® Whisk into infused tomato water until dissolved.
Deoiled soy lecithin Ig 0.1% @ Heat mixture to 35 °C/95 °F.

@ Whip mixture with handheld wand mixer until thick foam forms.
@ Allow foam to drain fori min before using.
from page 5-65

CAPPUCCINO FOAM INSPIRED BY EERRAN ADRIA Yields 100g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

2% milk 500 g 125% @ Combine.
Coffee beans, coarsely lOOg 25% @ Vacuum seal.
crushed
® Refrigerate for 12 h to infuse.
Sugar 40 g 10%
® Strain coffee milk, discarding coffee beans and cardamom seeds, and measure 350 g
Glucose syrup DE 40 lOg 2.5% for recipe.
Black cardamom seeds Ig 0.25%
Infused milk, from above 400 g 100% ® Dry blend powders, and disperse in infused milk.
Sucrose esters (Sucro, 4.8 g 1.2% ® Place in beaker of milk shake whipper; process until very frothy.
Texturas brand) 4g 1%
Whey protein isolate
from page 4-266

FOAMS 315
LIGHT FOAMS

@ Select the recipe that matches the temperature and bubble size @ Hydrate, using the temperature and time given. This is not required for
you want. cold-soluble foaming agents.
d) Measure the ingredients carefully, and combine the foaming agents with @ Chill or heat the liquid to servingtemperature.
the liquid. Set the weight of the liquid to 100%. For example, to make a
© To serve, aerate the mixture with a whisk or mixer. Alternatively, pour
hot, coarse foam, add 0.35 gofxanthan gum and 0.20 g of guar gum for
the liquid into a 1 I whipping siphon, pressurize by using the number
every 100 gof liquid.
of nitrous oxide cartridges suggested in the table, and dispense.

Best Bets for Light Foams

Hydrate Nitrous
Serving Bubble oxide
temperature size Foaming agents (scaling)’ (°c) (°F) (min) Foaming method charges Example See page
cold fine 160 Bloom gelatin 1% 60 140 5 siphon 2 blood orange foam next
160 Bloom gelatin 0.90% 60 140 5 siphon 2-3 corn foam 318
xanthan gum 0.27%
albumin powder 10% cold electric whisk 3 light coating foam
or siphon
coarse xanthan gum 0.7% cold siphon 3 lemon verbena and 318
peach froth
xanthan gum 0.20% 95 203 3 siphon 2 cava foam 327
agar ** 0.25%
hot and cold fine low-acyl gellan** 0.3% 95 203 3 siphon 2 eggless sabayon, warm,
beer-like foam
agar** 0.4% 95 203 3 siphon 2
egg yolk** 29.0% 70 158 30 siphon 3 bergamot sabayon 319
Maltrin MlOO 5.5%
coarse xanthan gum 0.25% cold siphon 3 dairy-free milk shake
guar gum 0.15%
from page 4-270 *{set weight of liquid to 100%); **(makefluid gel beforefilling siphon)

HORCHATA FOAM Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chufa nuts 450 g 225% ® Cover nuts with water.
@ Soak in refrigerator for 12 h.
© Drain.
Water 250 g 125% @ Combine with soaked nuts.
Sugar 16g 8% © Blend to smooth, fine texture.

© Pass through fine sieve to extract chufa milk.

@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until cold.
Chufa milk, cold, 200 g 100% ® Disperse soy lecithin and whey protein isolates in milk.
from above
@ Blend thoroughly.
Deoiled soy lecithin 6g 3%
Whey protein isolate 1.4g 0.7%
Salt as needed @ Season chufa milk.

® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

@ To serve, foam horchata with handheld foaming wand or immersion blender until thick foam
layer forms.
from page 5-244

316 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

 WHIPPED CHEESE inspired by alex stupak Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cruyere water 500 g 100% ® Season cheese water.
see page 20
@ Reserve.
Salt to taste
Maltrin MlOO 20 g 4% @ Dry blend powders.
(CPC brand)
lota carrageenan 1.25 g 0.25% Alex Stupak aerates a carrageenan
(Cenuvisco J, CP Kelco fluid gel as it is setting. This process
brand) is quite versatile and can be
adapted to make various aerated
Lambda carrageenan 0.75 g 0.15%
(Texturas brand) textures that are not dependent on
a whippingsiphon.
Cheese-infused milk. 500 g 100% ® Disperse powder mixture in cold milk.
from above
© Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
® While still warm, pour into standing mixer, and whip
at high speed until stiff foam forms and becomes cold.
@ Spoon into piping bag, and pipe to order.
from page 4-272

BLOOD ORANGE EOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields250g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

160 Bloom gelatin 2.5g 1% © Disperse into 50 gof cold juice and heat until gelatin is
This basic formula can be used
Blood orangejuice 250 g 100% fully dissolved.
for any cold foam.
@ Combine with remaining cold juice. Strain.
@ Transfer to siphon, and charge with one nitrous oxide
cartridge.
® Refrigerate siphon for at least 2 h before use.
from page 4-272

MILK FOAM Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Skim milk 500 g 100% @ Vacuum seal together.
Leeks, whites only. 75 g 15% © Cook sous vide in 85 °C /185 °F bath fori h.
thinly sliced
@ Strain.
Button mushrooms. 50 g 10%
@ Reserve hot.
gills and skin removed,
thinly sliced
Turnip, peeled and 35 g 7% •
thinly sliced
Sweet onions, thinly 25 g 5%
sliced
Garlic, thinly sliced 7g 1.5%
Thyme 0.75 g 0.15%
Sucrose esters 3.5 g 0.7% ® Blend together.
(Sucro, Texturas brand)
® Shear into strained hot milk mixture.
Methocel F50 1.75 g 0.35% @ Cool, and vacuum seal.
(Dow brand)
@ Refrigerate milk foam for 12 h to hydrate.
@ Warm infused milk to room temperature, and foam
with handheld milk frother until abundant amount of
foam forms on surface of milk, about2 min. Allow to
drain fori min, and then use as garnish.
from page 5-33

FOAMS 317
LEMON VERBENA AND PEACH FROTH ADAPTED FROM QUIQUE DACOSTA Yields700g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 800 g 114% ® Combine.
Dried peaches 200 g 28.5% d) Bringto boil.

@ Cool to 60 °C/140 °F, and hold.

Lemon verbena (fresh) 50 g 7% ® Add.

® Cover, and steep at 60 °C/140 °F for 3 min.

© Strain through fine sieve, measuring 700 g of peach infusion.

@ Cool completely.
Peach infusion, from 700 g 100% ® Blend until mixture thickens.
above
® Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 5g 0.7%
@ Shake vigorously, and dispense in desired amounts.
CP Kelco brand)
Seasonal herbs and as needed ® Garnish.
blossoms
from page 4-273

CORN FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields 150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Corn juice llOg 100% ® Combine xanthan gum with 55 g of corn juice.
(from 250 gcorn
kernels)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.4 g 0.4%
CP Kelco brand) (0.27%)*
160 Bloom gelatin Ig 0.9% ® Disperse gelatin into remaining 55 g of corn juice.
(0.7%)* @ Heat until fully dissolved.
Heavy cream 40 g 36% @ Combine cream with corn juice and gelatin mixtures.
©Strain.
Salt to taste ® Season corn cream.

@ Transferto 11 whipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
® Refrigerate for at least 3 h before use.
from page 4-273 *(% of total weightof other ingredients)

BLOOD ORANGE SABAYON

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, finely minced 75 g 29% ® Sweat until tender, about 7 min.
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 19%
White wine (dry) 450 g 173% @ Add to shallots, and reduce to 120 g.
The spray-dried blood orange juice
White wine vinegar 20 g 7.7% © Reserve.
can be purchased from Obipektin,
or see page 2-443 for a recipe. Blood orange juice 260 g 100% ® Reduce orange juice to 30 g.
Unsalted butter, melted 62 g 24% © Combine with shallot and orange juice reductions to
Egg yolk, cooked in 69 °C / 48 g 18.5% make sabayon base.
156 °F bath for 35 min © Transferto 11 whipping siphon.
Spray-dried blood orange 40 g 15% @ Warm sabayon-filled siphon in 65 °C /150 °F bath for
juice at least 20 min.
Heavy cream 38 g 14.6% ® Charge siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges.
Lemon juice 15 g 5.8% ® Shake vigorously and dispense to serve.
Salt 4g 1.5%
Xanthan gum 0.2 g 0.08%
(0.06%)*
from page 5-148 *(% of total weight of shallot and orange juice reductions and other
base ingredients)

318 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

sous VIDE SOLE WITH BERGAMOT SABAYON Yields 900 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Vermouth (dry) 100 g 40% @ Combine.
Champagne vinegar 50 g 20% @ Reduce to syrup.
Shallots, finely minced 50 g 20% @ Strain, discarding shallot bits.
@ Measure 25 g of wine reduction, and set aside.
Eggyolks, blended 208 g 83.2% © Cook sous vide in 70 °C/ 158 “F bath for 35 min, and reserve.
{65%)*
Cream sherry 30 g 12% ® Vacuum seal together.
Fino sherry 25 g 10% @ Infuse in 85 °C/185 °F bath for 6 min.
Earl Grey tea leaves 7.5 g 3% ® Strain, reserving tea infusion.
White fish stock 250 g 100% ® Combine.
see page 6
@ Blend with cooked eggyolks until smooth to make sabayon base.
Tea infusion, from above 45 g 18%
Wine reduction, from 25 g 10%
above
Maltrin MIOO 15 g 6%
(GPC brand)
Bergamot essential oil 0.1 g 0.04% ® Season sabayon base generously.
Cayenne pepper to taste @ Transferto 1 1 whippingsiphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Eemon juice to taste @ Hold filled siphon in 62 °C/ 144 °F bath to reserve.
Salt to taste
Black mussels, live 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal in one even layer.
(24 small) ® Submerge in boiling waterfor 3 min.
@ Shock in ice water, and remove from bag.
® Shuck, reservingjuices in bagand shells.
@ Strain juice over shucked mussels.
® Refrigerate mussels.
Rex sole, skin removed four whole varies @ Vacuum seal each sole individually with 10 g of butter.
(small) @ Cook sole packets sous videin47°C/ 117°F bath to core temperature of 46 °C / 115 °F, about
Clarified unsalted butter 40 g 16% 30 min.
see page 4-213
@ Remove from packets, and place one fish on each serving plate.
@ Warm mussels in small pot.
Salt to taste @ Season sole.
@ Garnish with sabayon and mussels.
Bergamot (fresh) one whole @ Grate zest finely over sole to finish. Serve with crispy potatoes or potato puree.
from page 4-274 *(% of total weight of stock, tea infusion, and wine reduction)

COCONUT-LOBSTER EMULSION Yields 600 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Spiced shellfish stock 600 g 100% ® Reduce to 90 g.
see page 9
©Cool.
Coconut cream powder 25 g 4.2% @ Whisk into reduced stock.
(store-bought)
White soy sauce to taste @ Season stock.
Locust bean gum (TIC 0.86 g 0.15% ® Disperse into cold stock.
Gums brand) (0.75%)* ® Bring to boil to hydrate, and remove from heat.
Whey protein isolate 2-3 g 0.4% @ Whisk into stock until dissolved.
(2%)* ® Foam coconut-lobster emulsion with steam wand of espresso machine (see page 4-390),
or heat while whipping with handheld milk frother until dense, wet foam forms.
from page 5-187 *{% of total weight of shellfish stock reduction and coconut cream powder)

FOAMS 319
 MUSHROOM AND BACON CAPPUCCINO inspired by marc veyrat

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Smoked bacon, thinly lOOg 50% ® Fry in dry nonstick pan until golden, aboutlO min.
sliced
Heavy cream 60 g 30% ® Add to bacon, and simmerfor20 min.
Water 20 g 10% @ Strain cream through fine sieve.
® Cool.

® Measure 75 g of bacon cream.

White pork stock, cold 200 g 100% ® Whisk together, and season generously to compensate for aeration.
see page 6

Bacon cream, from above 75 g 37.5%

Whole milk, cold 15 g 7.5%
Salt to taste
Agardexturas brand) 2g 1% @ Disperse in cold stock and cream mixture.
(0.7%)*
® Heat to 95 °C/203 °F, and hold for3 min to fully hydrate.
® Pour into container, and allow to set, about 5 min.

@ Puree to fluid gel, and transferto 1 1 whippingsiphon.

® Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.

® Heat siphon in 50 °C/ 122 °F bath for 15 min to make bacon foam.
Mushroom jus 200 g 100% ® Combine, and simmerfor2 min.
see page 37
Madeira 15 g 7.5%
Dry shiitake, thinly sliced 5g 2.5%
Star anise Ig 0.5%
Coffee butter lOg 5% ® Blend into hot mushroom jus mixture.
see page 350
© Pour into cups or bowls.
® Garnish with bacon foam.
from page 4-275 *(% q/ total weight ofcold stock and cream mixture)

POACHED APPLE WITH PECORINO FOAM Yields 450 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk 650 g 163% ® Combine, and vacuum seal.
Pecorino Romano, grated 350 g 88% @ Infuse, refrigerated, forl2 h.

@ Strain through fine sieve, and measure 400 g infused milk.

Cheese infused milk, 400 g 100% @ Blend until smooth.
from above
Heavy cream 100 g 25%
Lambda carrageenan Ig 0.25%
Salt to taste (5) Season cheese mixture.

® Transfer to 1 (whipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide
Pink Lady apples, peeled, 200 g 50%
@ Vacuum seal each apple half individually with equal quantities of cider, butter, bay leaf, and
cored, and halved (two medium) vanilla seeds.
Hard apple cider 50 g 12.5% ® Cook sous vide in 80 °C /176 °F bath for 2 h.
Unsalted butter 50 g 12.5% ® Strain apples over small pot to catch cooking juices.
Bay leaf, thinly sliced 0.1 g 0.025% @ Reduce juices to glaze.
Vanilla seeds and pulp, 0.1 g 0.025%
® Serve warm apples with warm apple glaze, cool Pecorino Romano foam, and toasted brioche.
scraped from pod
from page 4-276 --

320
VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL
GRAPEFRUIT AND BLACK PEPPER adapted from daniel patterson Yields IT kg (12 servings)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

For grapefruit-black pepper sorbet:
Sugar 60 g 12% ® Dry blend.
Pectin LM-104 (CP Kelco 6g 1.2%
brand)
Glucose 30 g 6% @ Combine 100 g of grapefruit juice with the glucose, sorbitol, and sugar-pectin mixture.
Sorbitol 30 g 6% @ Bring to boil to form syrup, strain through fine chinois, and chill over ice.
Grapefruit juice (fresh) 500 g 100%
Salt to taste @ Combine remaining 400 g of grapefruit juice with chilled syrup, and season.
Lemon juice to taste © Strain through fine sieve, and freeze in Pacojet beaker to make grapefruit sorbet.
For grapefruit mousse:
Grapefruit juice 415 g 83% ® Combine juices.
Lemon juice 30 g 6% @ Mix in essential oils.
Ginger essential oil one drop
Black pepper essential oil three drops
Grapefruit essential oil four drops
160 Bloom gelatin 14 g 2.8% ® Disperse in cold water.
Honey 15g 3% @ Combine in pot, and add enough juice mixture to cover.
Sugar 50 g 10% @ Gently warm; add gelatin, stirring until dissolved.
@ Combine with remaining juice mixture, and chill over ice.
@ When completely set, puree in blender until fluid, and pass through fine sieve.
® Transfer to 1 1 siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. Refrigerate.
Pink grapefruit one whole @ Cut into supremes. Slice sections on bias in 1 cm / Vi in segments.
Tarragon, fine julienne as needed @ To serve, season grapefruit segments.
Simple syrup to taste @ Pacotize sorbet once more.
Cognac to taste ® Place spoonful of segments in bottom of each bowl.
Lemon juice to taste @ Top with quenelle of sorbet, and cover with mousse.
from page 4-276

FOAMS 321
THICK FOAMS

@ Select a serving temperature and foaming agents. The table below @ Disperse and heat the liquid (not required forcold-soluble solutions).
suggests multiple formulations for creating cold and hot foams, both See the table for appropriate times and temperatures.
with and without fat. @ Heat or cool the liquid to servingtemperature.
(D Measure the ingredients carefully, and combine the foaming agent with ® To serve, aerate the mixture with an electric whisk or mixer or use a
the liquid. Set the weight of the liquid to 100%. For example, to make siphon to expand it. Siphoning does not work well with very thick liquids;
whipped caramel, add 1 g of Versawhip and 0.15 g of xanthan gum for the upper limit is about the thickness of mayonnaise.
every 100 g of caramel.

Best Bets for Thick, Fine-Textured Foams

Service Hydrate Foaming Nitrous oxide
temperature Foaming agents (scaling)** (°c) (°F) (min) method charges Example

cold 160 Bloom gelatin 1.5% 60 140 5 siphon 2-3 thick fruit and vegetable juice foams
Versawhip 1.00% cold electric whisk n/a shaving cream-like foam,

xanthan gum 0.15% whipped caramel

albumin powder 14% room 20 siphon 2 savory and sweet mousses

isomalt or sugar 10% temp.

pregelatinized 5% 60 140 5 siphon 2 whipped puddings

starch paste
160 Bloom gelatin 1.2%
hot and cold low-acyl gellan* 0.8% 95 203 3 siphon 2-3 coconut chutney foam,
hot whipped cream

agar* 1.0% 95 203 3 siphon 3 thick, hot whipped cream;

xanthan gum 0.2% hot whipped topping

methylcellulose F50 1.00% 100 212 5 electric whisk n/a eggless sabayon

xanthan gum 0.15%

Ultra-Sperse 5 4.0% 80 176 10 siphon 3 potato and other starch foams
iota carrageenan* 0.4%
albumin powder 7.0% room 20 siphon 1-2 hot whipped cream

xanthan gum 0.2% temp.

from page 4-278 *{makefluid gel before foaming)-, **(set weight of liquid to 700%)

CFHOCOLATE CFHANTILLY adapted from herve this Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT quantity SCALING PROCEDURE

Semisweet chocolate 300 g 100% ® Vacuum seal.
(50% cocoa), chopped into @ Warm sous vide in 50 °C /122 °F bath until
small chunks completely melted; reserve. The same procedure used here can
Water 200 g 67% @ Pour into bowl set over ice-water bath. also be used to make chantilly-style

@ Incorporate chocolate into water gradually with foams of camembert, foie gras,
or butter. For foie gras, use 200 g
electric whisk.
of melted foie gras for every 100 g
® Whip at high speed to form dense foam, about
ofwater or flavorful liquid. For
5 min.
butter, usel00gofbutterand4g
® Refrigerate foam until ready to serve. of ge lat i n fo r eve ry 20 g of water.
from page 4-281

322 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

Note See page
allow gelatin to set for at least 3 h before serving
do not use with liquids containingfat 327

200

make fluid gel before foaming; needs source of calcium for 325
best results; if gellan does not hydrate, see page 4-129

see page 4-170 for the hydration procedure

for methylcellulose

reheating base will increase viscosity considerably

do not heat above 60 °C /140 °F

INSTANT SWISS MERINGUE vieidsisog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE_

Egg whites 100 g 100% @ Beat whites into sugar.
Sugar 100 g 100% @ Vacuum seal mixture.
@ Cook sous vide in 74 °C /165 °F bath forSO min.
® Transfer to 1 1 whipping siphon, and charge with four cartridges of nitrous oxide.
© Dispense for use as soft meringues.
® To set meringues, dispense on silicone mat, and bake in 150 °C / 300 °F oven for T/2 h.
from page 4-284

FOAMS 323
EGGPLANT FOAM ADAPTED FROM JOAN ROCA Yields 950 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Italian eggplant 1kg 200% @ Roast whole at 190 °C/375 °F until charred and thoroughly cooked, about 1’/2 h.
(about two @ Cut open, and scoop out flesh while still hot. Discard seeds and skin.
eggplants)
(D Puree flesh, and pass through fine sieve. Measure 500 g of puree.

Charred eggplant puree, 500 g 100% @ Blend.

from above ® Strain through fine sieve.
Heavy cream 250 g 50% ©Pour into 1 1 whipping siphon.
Albumin powder 25 g 5% @ Warm siphon in 50 °C/122 °F bath for 15 min.
[3.3%)*

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1.5g 0.3%

CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)*

Salt to taste

Fresh sardines, 200 g 40% ® Grill for 2 min on each side until just cooked through, and season.
cleaned and gutted (four fish)

Sumac lOg 2% @ Garnish grilled sardines with foam and remaining ingredients.

Mint leaves 5g 1%

Olive oil to taste

from page 4-280 *(% of total weight of heavy cream and eggplant puree)

BAKED POTATO FOAM Yieids4oog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Baked potato foam is a lighter Yukon Gold potatoes, 500 g 200% ® Simmer until tender.
alternative to potato puree. In this peeled and thinly sliced @ Press through fine tamis.
version, we use a broth made with
© Measure 250 g of puree, and keep warm.
baking soda to enhance the baked
flavor, but a potato skin infusion Baked potato broth, cold 150 g 60% @ Disperse iota carrageenan and xanthan gum into
could be used instead (see page 19). see page 19 broth.
We use olive oil as a fat in this lota carrageenan (Genuvisco J, 1.25 g 0.5% ® Heat mixture to 95 °C/ 203 °F, and hold for 3 min
recipe, but melted buttercould be CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)* to fully hydrate.
substituted. Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.4%
Ig © Remove from heat.
CP Kelco brand) (0.16%)*
Heavy cream 125 g 50% © Blend into warm broth.
Hot potato foams were first made
by Ferran Adria, who made them Olive oil 35 g 14%
with just potato and water. We find Yukon Cold potato puree, 250 g 100% ® Fold in cream and broth mixture.
that adding some thickness with from above
xanthan and a fluid gel improves
Salt to taste ® Season.
the texture. In this recipe, we use
@ Transferto 1 1 whipping siphon, and charge with
iota carrageenan, but agar or gellan
one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
would also work here.
@ Hold in 60 °C/ 140 °F bath until needed.
from page 4-281 *(% of total weight of baked potato broth, heavy cream, olive oil, and
prepared potato puree)

HOT BUTTER FOAM ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA Yields250g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg whites 45 g 18% ® Blend until smooth, and strain.
(about one @ Vacuum seal, and cook sous vide in 70 °C/158 °F bath for 30 min.
large white)
Egg yolks 35 g 14%
(about two yolks)
Unsalted butter, melted 250g 100% @ Blend into egg mixture.
Salt to taste © Season.

© Transferto 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
© To serve, warm siphon in 60 °C /140 °F bath, and dispense foam. Serve with grilled bread or
steamed potatoes.
from page 4-283

324 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 COCONUT CHUTNEY FOAM Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cilantro leaves 8g 4% @ Puree herbs in food processor to fine paste.
Mint leaves 4g 2% @ Pass through fine sieve.
Green chili (fresh), thinly 2g 1% @ Measure 10 g of herb puree.
sliced
Coconut cream 200 g 100% @ Blend.
Coconut milk (stabilizer 200 g 100%
free)
Herb puree, from above 20 g 10%
Salt to taste © Season coconut herb cream.
Low-acyl gellan 3.4 g 1.7% © Combine.
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco {0.8%)*
brand)
Sodium citrate 0.6 g 0.3%
Water, cold 20 g 10% @ Disperse gellan mixture in water.
© Whisk gellan water into herb cream to form foam base.

@ Bring to simmer while blending to fully hydrate.

@ Remove from heat, and pour foam base into mold.
® Refrigerate until fully set, about 10 min.
@ Blend set gel to fine puree.

® Place in siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.

@ Warm siphon in 60 °C/ 140 °F bath for 15 min, and serve.
from page 4-282 *(% of total weight of coconut milk, coconut cream, herb puree, and water)

SUET MOUSSELINE (THICK)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White beef stock 350 g 100% ® Combine, and reduce to 100 g.
see page 6
©Strain.
White wine (dry) 250 g 71%
© Cool.
Shallot, finely minced 55 g 16%
@ Measure 75 g.
White wine vinegar 35 g 10%
Black pepper 0.7 g 0.2%
Wine reduction, 75 g 21% © Disperse gellan in cream.
from above
© Blend thickened cream with wine reduction.
Heavy cream, cold 50 g 14.5%
@ Vacuum seal.
Low-acyl gellan 1-2 g 0.34%
© Hydrate in 85 °C/185 °F bath for5 min.
(Kelcogel F brand) (0.29%)*
© Cool until set. Puree to fluid gel.
Egg yolks, cooked sous 90 g 26% @ Blend with fluid gel.
vide in 62 °C /144 °F bath
for35 min
Rendered beef suet, 200 g 57% ® Warm fluid gel mixture and suet separately in 62 °C/144 °F bath.
vacuum-sealed
@ Blend warm suet into fluid gel until fully emulsified.
Lemon juice to taste
® Season mixture generously.
Salt to taste
® Pour into 1 1 siphon, and charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges.
® Hold in 62 °C /144 °F bath until use.
from page 5-8 *{% of total weight of heavy cream, wine reduction, egg yolks, and beef suet)

FOAMS 325
DAIRY-FREE WHIPPED CREAM Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water, or flavorful liquid 200 g 100% ® Dry blend powders, and disperse in cold water.
Cellulose gum (Cekol LVD, 1 g 0.5% @ Bring to boil fori min to fully hydrate.
CP Kelco brand)
@ Remove from heat, and blend over ice until set.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.8 g 0.4%
@ Puree until smooth to make fluid gel.
(Protanal Ester BV 4104,
EMC BioPolymer brand)
AgarfTexturas brand) 0.4 g 0.2%
Neutral oil, orany 60 g 30% ® Combine, and heat to 65 °C/105 °Fto dissolve flakes.
flavored oil or fat
® Slowly drizzle warm oil mixture into fluid gel, blending constantly, until fully emulsified.
Clice (Texturas brand) 4.2 g 2.1%
@ Cool completely, and pour mixture into 1 1 whipping siphon.
or glycerin flakes
(5) Simmer for 2 min, and remove from heat. Cool.
(Terraspice brand)
® Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and refrigerate until use.
from page 4-283

CAULIELOWER FOAM Yields 450 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 375 g 94% @ Simmertogetherfor20 min.
Cauliflower trimmings 300 g 75% @ Remove from heat, and infuse at room temperature for 45 min.
Water 175 g 44% @ Strain.

@ Measure 400 g of cauliflower milk, and refrigerate.

Cauliflower, thinly sliced 500 g 125% ® Brown cauliflower slices in butters until very dark and nutty aroma is released.
Clarified brown butter 20 g 5% ® Puree, and pass through fine sieve.
Cocoa butter (food grade) 15 g 4% @ Measure 50 g of puree, and reserve.
Cauliflower milk, cold 400 g 100% ® Disperse gums in cauliflower milk.
from above
® Heat to 95 °C / 203 °F, and hold at temperature for 3 min to fully hydrate.
Low-acyl gellan Ig 0.25%
@ Refrigerate until gel is set, about 5 min.
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco
brand)
Locust bean gum 0.4 g 0.1%
(TIC Gums brand)
Browned cauliflower 25 g 6.3% ® Puree with gelled cauliflower milk until smooth.
puree, from above
Salt to taste @ Season pureed mixture.

@ Load mixture into siphon, and warm in 70 “C/ 158 °F water bath for 15 min.

@ Charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges, shake vigorously, and dispense to serve.
from page 5-283

FRIED EGG FOAM Yields 220 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg whites 60 g 100% ® Fry egg whites until golden brown.
Grapeseed oil 30 g 50% @ Drain oil, pat dry, and reserve.

Heavy cream, cold 130 g 217% @ Disperse gelatin in cream.

160 Bloom gelatin 2.4 g 4% @ Bring to simmer to dissolve gelatin fully.
® Blend in fried egg whites.
Black pepper, ground to taste ® Season egg and cream mixture.
to fine powder
@ Press through fine sieve, and transfer to 1 1 whipping siphon.
Salt to taste
® Charge egg-cream-filled siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges.
@ Warm siphon in 62 °C/144 °F bath, about 15 min.
@ Shake siphon thoroughly, and dispense to serve.
from page 5-212

326 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

HORSERADISH FOAM INSPIRED BY WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 400 g 100% @ Blend.
Fresh horseradish, 150 g 37.5% @ Strain.
finely grated
Horseradish water, 400 g 100% @ Bringwaterto boil.
from above @ Disperse methylcellulose and xanthan gum in boiling water.
Methylcellulose F50 1% ® Simmerfor2 min, and remove from heat. Cool.
(Dow brand)
® Vacuum seal. Refrigerate for at least 6 h to fully hydrate.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.6 g 0.15%
@ Transfer to metal bowl.
CP Kelco brand)
Salt to taste ® Season, and set bowl over pot of simmering water.
® Whip foam base with electric whisk until soft peaks form.
® Serve with rib roast or Boeuf en Celee.
from page 4-284

OYSTERS WITH CAVA FOAM adapted from joan roca Yields 700 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Cava or other sparkling 400 g 100% 0 Shear gum into wine.
dry white wine @Transfertol 1 whipping siphon.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 1.6g 0.4% 0 Charge siphon with one cartridge of carbon dioxide, and seal.
CP Kelco brand)
@ Refrigerate.
Applejuice lOOg 25% 0 Disperse agar in juice.
Agar(Texturas brand) Ig 0.25% 0 Bringjuice to boil.
(1%)* 0 Remove from heat, and cool until gelled.
0 Puree gel until completely fluid.
Kusshi oysters 20 oysters 0 Shuck and rinse.
@ Divide equally amongfour bowls.
Candied lemon peel fourcubes @ Garnish each bowl with dab of apple fluid gel, one cube of lemon peel, two pieces of ginger
(store-bought) dice, and two pieces of pineapple dice.
Crystallized ginger, eight pieces
brunoise
Fresh pineapple, eight pieces
brunoise
Cumin seeds, ground fine 0.4 g 0.1% @ Season.
Pain d'epices spice 0.4 g 0.1% @ Dispense cava foam attable.
powder
see page 51

from page 4-277 *(% of weight of apple juice)

BARBECUED EEL WITH WHIPPED CARAMEL Yields 450 g

ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water lOOg 100% 0 Cook together to 143 °C / 290 °F.
Sugar 100 g 100%
Water 300 g 300% 0 Deglaze caramel, and stir to dissolve. Reserve 300 g of caramel water, and chill.
Versawhip 600 (Kerry 3g 3% 0 Disperse powders into reserved cold caramel water, and blend until fully incorporated.
Bioscience brand) 0 Whip with electric whisk until stiff, beer-head-like foam is achieved.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.45 g 0.45%
CP Kelco brand)
Barbecued eel 200 g 200% 0 Broil for2 min, skin side down.
(store-bought) 0 Arrange on plates, and garnish with whipped caramel.

from page 4-283

FOAMS 327
UNI WITH WHIPPED TOFU AND TAPIOCA adapted from DAVID CHANG Yields 3.85 kg (20 portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Soft tofu 1.25 kg 313% © Puree together until smooth.
Water 450 g 113% @ Pass through fine sieve.
Yuzu juice 80 g 20%
Sugar 20 g 5%
Yuzu kosho 15g 4%
Salt lOg 2.5%
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 9g 2.25% @ Blend into tofu base until fully dispersed.
CP Kelco brand) (0.5%)* @ Pour mixture into 1 1 whippingsiphon.

© Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.

® Reserve refrigerated.
Bonito flakes 20 g 5% @ Toss together to make furikake (Japanese mixed seasoning).
(katsuobushi)
Egg yolk powder 20 g 5%
Nori powder 20 g 5%
Puffed rice 20 g 5%
Shrimp cracker puffs, 20 g 5%
crumbled
Toasted sesame seeds 20 g 5%
Black tapioca pearls 1.25 kg 313% ® Combine, and bringto simmer.
Apple juice (Mott's) 150 g 37.5% ® Cool.
Elderflower syrup 100 g 25% @ Place spoonful oftapioca pearls in bottom of each bowl.
@ Dispense large spoonful ofwhipped tofu onto each portion.
Santa Barbara sea urchin 400 g 100% @ Add three tongues to each bowl.
(uni) tongues
@ Garnish with furikake.
from page 4-285 *(% of total weight offirst six ingredients)

CHESTNUT CREAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk, cold 150 g 150% © Disperse iota carrageenan and gum over milk.
lota carrageenan 0.6 g 0.6%
(0.2%)*

Konjac gum 0.3 g 0.3%

(TIC Gums brand) (0.1%)*
Chestnut puree lOOg 100% © Blend with milk solution.
(store-bought) @ Vacuum seal.
Eleavy cream 25 g 25% ® Place in 80 °C/175 °F bath, and hold for 5 min to
Roasted hazelnut oil 15 g 15% hydrate iota carrageenan.
Sugar 15 g 15% ® Pour into mold, and refrigerate until set, about 10 min.
Water lOg 10% ® Puree gel until fluid.

Salt 2g 2% @ Fill 11 siphon with fluid gel.

(D Charge chestnut-cream-filled siphon with two nitrous

oxide cartridges, and reheat in 70 °C /158 °F bath for
15 min.

from page 5-21 *(% of total weight of all ingredients)

328 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

WHIPPED BUTTER Yields! kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PRQCEDURE

Heavy cream 4 kg 400% ©Transferto bowl of electric mixer.
(without stabilizers) @ Whisk on high until fat is totally separated from liquid and small granules of butter begin to
form, about 10 min.
© Strain mixture through cheesecloth, discarding liquid.
@ Wring cheesecloth tightly to remove any remaining moisture from butter.
® Measure 1 kg of sweet butter.
Sweet butter, from above 1 kg 100% ® Whisk into soft butter.
or store-bought @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 24 h to mature butter flavor.
Lactic acid 1.5g 0.15% ® To serve, warm butter to 40 °C/104 °F until fluid but not broken.
Delta decalactone 0.1 g 0.01% @ Pour into 1 1 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
(SAFC brand)
® Dispense to serve.
Salt 15g 1.5%
from page 4-286

Whether you make your own butter or use store-bought butter, this
incredible butter foam provides the essential taste of butter in a much
lighter context. It may be held at 40 °C/104 “F and foamed to order.

YOGURT EOAM AND SWEET POTATO CHIPS Yields 500g

(HOMAGE TO AMERICAN SCULPTOR RICHARD 3ERRA)
ADAPTED EROM JOSE ANDRES

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

160 Bloom gelatin 1.1% @ Bloom in cold water.
Heavy cream 150 g 43% @ Heat 50 g of cream.
@ Add gelatin to dissolve.
Full-fat Creek-style 350 g 100% @ Blend with gelatin mixture and 100 g of remaining cream.
strained yogurt ® Transferto 1 1 whippingsiphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Refrigerate for at least 4 h.
Sweet potatoes, peeled 200 g 57% ©Slice potatoes into sheets 1 mm /J42 in thick on Japanese rotary slicer.

Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry in 190 °C /375 °F oil until crisp and golden, about 3 min.
Salt to taste @ Season chips, and reserve.
Tamarind paste lOOg 28.5% @ Blend well to form syrup, and transferto squeeze bottle.
see page 145
@ Dispense yogurt foam into serving bowls.
Clear honey 40 g 11.5%
@ Drizzle syrup over foam, and serve with sweet potato chips on side.
Star anise powder 0.2 g 0.05%
from page 4-287

FOAMS 329
SET FOAMS

@ Select bubble size and foam temperature. The table Best Bets for Set @ Hydrate, usingthe time and temperature given (not required
Foams below offers multiple options forfoams to be served cold or hot, for cold-soluble foaming agents).
with or without fat. @ Cool liquid completely.
@ Measure ingredients carefully, and disperse the foaming agents in the © Aerate with an electric whisk or mixture, or expand by using
liquid. Setthe weight ofthe liquid tolOO%. For example, to make passion al I whippingsiphon, as indicated.
fruit marshmallows, add 4 g of 160 Bloom gelatin and 10 g of albumin
® Heat or chill the foam to set its structure. Setting methods,
powder for every 100 g of passion fruit base.
temperatures, and times are listed in the table.

Best Bets for Set Foams

Hydrate Set

and bubble size Foaming agents (scaling)* (“C) (°F) (min) Foaming method Method (°c) (°F) (h)

cold, fine 160 Bloom gelatin 3.00% 60 140 5 electric whisk refrigerator 1

xanthan gum 0.25%

160 Bloom gelatin 4.0% 60 140 5 stand mixer refrigerator 3

albumin powder 10%

heavy cream 200% 60 140 5 siphon with two refrigerator 4

egg yolk at 65 °C/148 °F 30% cartridges of nitrous

oxide
albumin powder 5%
160 Bloom gelatin 3%

xanthan gum 0.25%

albumin powder 18.0% cold-soluble stand mixer vacuum oven 60 140 2

glucose, syrup DE 40 16.5%

maltodextrin DE 19 5.0%
xanthan gum 0.3%
hot and cold, fine egg white 100.0% n/a electric whisk steam oven 75 167 14 min

lemon juice 10%

salt 1.3%
albumin powder 14.0% cold-soluble electric whisk steam oven 78 172 16 min

Maltrin MlOO 17.5%

egg yolk 27.0%
tartaric acid 0.2%

hot and cold, coarse egg white 104.0% cold-soluble siphon with two microwave full power 1 min

nut butter 100.0% cartridges of nitrous

oxide into perforated
egg yolk 67.0%
paper cup
sugar or isomalt 67.0%
all-purpose flour 16.7%
160 Bloom gelatin 2.8% 100 212 5 electric whisk blowtorch or high heat 1 min
methylcellulose E50 1.4% broiler

from page 4-288 *{set weight of liquid to 100%)

330 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Examples Note See page
gelatin sponges, soy sauce keep liquid very cold when whipping 339
cloud

delicate marshmallow, cool before whisking with albumin powder next

passion fruit marshmallow

savory parfaits and mousses best cast directly in serving vessel

very light savory meringues, vacuum at 19 mbar/ 0.28 psi; meringue base can 339
green olive meringue also be dehydrated or baked

blancmange ideal pH around 8.7; add more acid to older egg 335
whites

light souffles whip albumin and water with tartaric acid, and 338
then fold in remaining ingredients

pistachio sponge cake allow batter to rest fori h, refrigerated, before 333
using; the container in which the sponge is cooked
must have bottom ventilation

hot apricot marshmallow best used with fruit or vegetable purees; use same 334
day; see page 4170 for details on methylcellulose

FOAMS 331
PASSION FRUIT MARSHMALLOW WITH CHORIZO POWDER YieldsSOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Chorizo (dry cured), 300 g 150% ® Place in even layer on dehydrator tray.
very thinly sliced @ Dehydrate at 55 °C/131 °F for 12 h.

(D Pat off any excess oil.

N-ZorbitM 50 g 25% @ Add to dried chorizo, and grind to fine powder.
(National Starch brand) (16.7%)*
160 Bloom gelatin 8g 4% @ Disperse gelatin into juice.
Passion fruit juice 200 g 100% © Heat juice and sugar to 60 °C/140 "F until gelatin and sugar dissolve.
Fructose 75 g 37.5% @ Remove from heat.

® Cool completely.
Albumin powder 20 g 10% @ Whisk into cooled passion fruit juice mixture.

® Whip until stiff peaks form, about 10 min.

@ Cast in 2.5 cm / 1 in layer on nonstick mold.

@ Refrigerate until fully set, about 4 h.

® Cut resulting marshmallow into 2.5 cm / 1 in cubes.

@ Toss cubes in chorizo powderto serve.

from page 4-290 *(% of total weight of chorizo)

CRYOPOACHED GREEN TEA SOUR ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 1kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sugar 124 g 17.5% @ Combine.
HM pectin (Brown Ribbon 11 g 1.5% @ Pass through tamis.
HV, Obipektin brand) @ Reserve sugar mixture.
Water 710 g 100% ® Combine, and add sugar mixture.
Lime juice 133 g 19% © Hand-blend until sugar is completely incorporated.

© Bringto boil while whisking.

@ Pass through chinois.
© Chill over ice to 4 °C / 39 °F.
Gunpowdertea 21 g 3% ® Add to chilled mixture.
® Refrigerate infusion for 2 h.

® Passthrough chinois lined with double layer of cheesecloth or 70 micron sieve.

Matcha green tea 1.5g 0.2% @ Blend into tea infusion.
powder ® Pass through chinois to remove any lumps.
Egg whites lOOg 14% @ Whisk into infusion to make meringue base.
Vodka 50 g 7% ® Transfer meringue base to 1 1 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous
dioxide. Store refrigerated.

® To serve, dispense small ball of meringue base onto spoon; transfer to Dewar flask filled with
liquid nitrogen.

® Poach, turning meringue constantly until frozen on outside but still soft inside, about 30 s.
Matcha green tea powder as needed @ Dust over frozen meringue, and serve immediately.
from page 4-291

332 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

WHIPPED YOGURT CRISPS ADAPTED FROM AKI KAMOZAWA AND H. ALEXANDER TALBOT Yields600g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Full-fat Creek-style 480 g 100% @ Whisk together until yogurt is completely incorporated.
strained yogurt
@ Set aside yogurt base.
Water 270 g 56.25%
Water 300 g 62.5% @ Bring water to simmer.
Isomalt 50 g 10.4% @ Stir in isomalt, Maltrin MlOO, and salt until dissolved.
Maltrin MlOO (CPC brand) 25 g 5.2%
Salt 5g 1%
Methocel KlOO 1T3g 2.35% © Whisk into water until fully incorporated.
(Dow brand) (7.08%)* © Remove from heat, and add to yogurt base, from above.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 2.26g 0.47% © Cool in bowl set over ice-water bath.
CP Kelco brand) (0.22%)*
® Place bowl over hot water bath, and whip cooled mixture until consistency resembles
whipped egg white meringue.
® Transfer to pastry bag.
@ Pipe desired sizes onto tray lined with silicone mat.
® Dehydrate in 95 °C/205 °F oven until crisp, about 1 h.
from page 4-292 *(% of total weight of first three ingredients)

GREEN TEA CAKE ADAPTED FROM JOHNNY lUZZINI Yields600g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Sugar or isomalt, 150 g 100% ® Blend until creamy.
powdered
Unsalted butter 85 g 57%
O
On

Eggs, blended 100% @ Whisk into sugar mixture until smooth.

era

Vanilla seeds and pulp, ig 0.67% ©Add.

scraped from pod
Water 155 g 103% @ Combine water and milk powder.
Skim milk powder 20 g 13.3% © Heat to boilingwhile whisking constantly.
© Pour hot milk into blender.
Methocel SCA 7C 3.5 g 2.3% @ Blend into hot milk.
(Dow brand) (2%)* © Chill milk over ice-water bath.
® Add milk to blended sugar, butter, eggs, and vanilla seeds.
Cake flour 150 g 100% ® Combine, and sift together.
Matcha green tea powder 8g 5.3% @ fold into liquid ingredients to form batter, and rest, refrigerated, for 2 h.
Salt 4.5 g 3% @ Load batter into 1 1 whipping siphon, and charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Dispense into perforated paper cups.
@ Microwave on high for 1 min to cook through.
® Unmold and serve.
from page 4-292 *(%} of total weight of water and milk powder)

MICROWAVED PISTACHIO SPONGE CAKE adapted from ferran adriA Yieidssoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg whites 250 g 104% ® Blend until smooth.
Green pistachio butter 240 g 100% @ Refrigerate for 2 h to rest.
see page 54
© Strain.
Egg yolks 160 g 67%
@ Transfer cake base to 1 1 whipping siphon, and charge with one cartridge of nitrous oxide.
Sugar or isomalt 160 g 67%
© Perforate bottoms of 10 paper cups to allow for air circulation.
All-purpose flour 40 g 16.7%
® Dispense cake base into cups, filling each about half full.
@ Microwave each cup separately at 900 W for 50 s.
from page 4-294

FOAMS 333
 Yields: 250 g
HOT APRICOT MARSHMALLOW inspired by ferran adriA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Apricot puree 250 g 100% @ Combine methylcellulose with 200 g of apricot puree. Set aside remaining 50 g puree.
seepage 217 @ Bring to boil, and hold for 2 min to fully disperse.
Methocel F50 3.5 g 1.4%
@ Cool completely.
(Dow brand)
® Vacuum seal.
® Refrigerate for 12 h to hydrate methylcellulose.

160 Bloom gelatin 7g 2.8% ® Disperse gelatin in remaining 50 g of apricot puree.

@ Simmerto dissolve.
® Combine with Methocel mixture.
@ Whip with electric whisk for 7 min, until light and airy.

@ Transfer to pastry bag.

® Pipe small mounds onto centerof ovenproof plates.

@ Cover plates with plastic wrap.

@ Refrigerate until set, about 4 h.

Olive oil lOOg 40% ® Combine.

Jasmine essential oil Ig 0.4%

Dried apricots, finely 40 g 16% ® Bake apricot marshmallows at 120 °C / 250 °F for 3 min.
diced ® Garnish.
Marcona almonds, finely 20 g 8% @ Drizzle a little infused olive oil over each meringue, and serve.
chopped
Chives, finely minced 5g 2%

Lemon balm leaves 5g 2%

from page 4-293

HAMBURGER BUN Yieldsl2 buns

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

For the sponge:

White Lily bread flour 310 g 65% ® Dissolve yeast in 89gofwater, and mix remaining 100 g with flour.

Water (5 “C/41-F) 189 g 40% @ Mix together on low speed, using paddle attachment, for 8 min.

Yeast (fresh) 0.4% @ Covertightly, and refrigerate for24-48 h.

2g
For the dough:

White Lily bread flour 480 g 100% @ Mix together flour and water on low speed for4 min.

Water (30 °C/86°F) 270 g 56% ® Stop mixer, and cover bowl with hot, wet cloth for 45 min.

Yeast (fresh) 9.5 g 2% ® Mix into flour mixture.

Sponge, from above 120 g 25% ® Add to flour mixture, and mix on medium speed for4 min.

Sugar 72 g 15% ® Ferment dough, covered, at room temperature fori h.

Egg yolks 50 g 10% @ Form into twelve 90 g balls.

Vegetable shortening 5% ® Arrange balls into 11 cm / 4y4 in ring molds.

25 g
9.5 g 2% ® Proof in 40 °C / 104 °F combi oven with 85% relative humidity until dough has expanded to fill
Salt
ring, about 11/2 h. If proofing cabinet is unavailable, cover with oiled plastic wrap and keep in
Vanilla extract 0.5g 0.1%
warm place until proofed, at least V/2 h.
(two drops)
® Press gently on proofed buns to flatten.
Lemon essential oil 0.2 g 0.04%
(one drop)

L-cysteine 0.04 g 0.01%

Whole milk as needed ® Brush bun tops lightly.

Black onion seeds as needed @ Combine, and sprinkle on bun tops.

Black poppyseeds, as needed ® Bake in 260 °C / 500 °F oven for 6 min, and cool to room temperature.
toasted

Black sesame seeds, as needed

toasted

Rendered beef suet 40 g 8.5% ® Cut buns in half, and fry in suet until crisp and golden.

from page 5T2

334 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

BEET MERINGUE ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA YieldslOO g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Beet juice 120 g 100% @ Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
see page 2-336 (from about @ Skim top.
250 g of beets)
@ Cool completely.

Isomalt 24 g 20% @ Blend first three ingredients into cooled juice.

Albumin powder 15g 12.5% @ Season with salt.

Ascorbic acid 1-2 g 1% @ Refrigerate for 12 h to rehydrate.

Salt to taste @ Whip rehydrated meringue base until stiff

d) Pipe meringue base into mold, 5 cm / 2 in high.
@ Dehydrate in 90 "C /195 °F oven for2 h.

® Cut into desired shapes.

@ Reserve in cool, dry place.

Spray-dried yogurt 15 g 12.5% @ Combine.

powder @ Dust over meringues before serving.
see page 2-438, orstore-bought

Citric acid Ig 0.8%

from page 4-295

STEAMED BLANCMANGE adapted from JEAN-FRAN^OIS piece Yields200g(fourportions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Egg whites 120 g 100% @ Whip together until stiff peaks form.

Lemon juice 12g 10%

Salt 2g 1.7%

Chives, finely minced 4g 3.3% ® Fold in gently.

Black pepper, crushed 0.8 g 0.67% @ Transfer to pastry bag.

Unsalted butter, as needed @ Grease four 10 cm / 4 in metal ring molds lightly.

room temperature © Pipe egg white mixture into molds, filling each halfway full.
© Press down in center of molds with back of wet spoon, making small depressions.

Egg yolks, whole four whole © Add one yolk to center of each mold.
® Fill molds with remaining egg white mixture, covering yolks.
© Scrape off tops of each blancmange with offset spatula to flatten.
® Flash sides lightly with blowtorch to tighten structure.
@ Brush plastic wrap with butter, and cover each blancmange.
@ Steam in 75 °C / 165 °F combi oven for 14 min.
@ Let rest in molds at room temperature for 2 min.

@ Transferto serving plates.

Sauce vin jaune 120 g 100% @ Warm sauce and pour over each blancmange at table.
see page 308

from page 4-296

FOAMS 335
CHESTNUT PUFFS Yieicis430g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 160 g 160% @ Disperse gelatin over cold milk.
300 Bloom gelatin lOg 10%
Unsalted butter 45 g 45% @ Add to milk.
Rendered bacon fat lOg 10% @ Bringto boil.
Salt 2.5 g 2.5%
All-purpose flour lOOg 100% ® Add to boiling liquid all at once.

® Stirover medium heat until dough forms into ball and film develops on the inside of pot, about
2 min.

® Transfer to stand mixer.

Eggs 150 g 150% @ Incorporate eggs, one at a time, followed by puree.

Chestnut puree 30 g 30% ® Cast into mold in layerl.5 cm /% in thick.
(store-bought)
® Set for at least 3 h.

@ Cut into 1.5 cm / Ys in cubes.

® Bake cubes in 200 °C/ 390 °F oven for 10 min.

Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry chestnut puffs in 185 °C/ 365 °F oil for 4 min.

® Transfer to papertowel-lined bakingsheet.

Chestnut cream, warmed 30 g 30% @ Fill each puff with chestnut cream by using an injection attachment on a siphon to pierce puff.
see page 328

Pain d'epices powder as needed ® Dust each puff with pain d'epices powder.
see page 51

from page 5-20

BUTTERMILK BISCUITS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White Lily biscuit flour 300 g 100% @ Mix together.
Baking powder 13.5 g 4.5% @ Sift and reserve.

Sugar 12 g 4%

Salt 3g 1%
White Lily brand flouris milled
from soft wheat. If unavailable, Unsalted butter 115 g 38% ® Freeze butter, or optionally, use liquid nitrogen.
substitute another soft wheat flour Liquid nitrogen (optional) as needed ® Pulse frozen butter in food processor until round balls
or a pastry flour. If you use all¬ form, 3 mm / )4 in, in diameter,
purpose flour, you may need to
® Toss balls into sifted flour, and reserve.
increase the amount of liquid
Heavy cream 115 g 38% ® Mix together.
slightly.
Creme fraiche 70 g 25% @ Drizzle over reserved flour mixture.

Egg, blended 30 g 10% ® Mix very lightly until wet dough forms.

@ Place dough on plastic wrap.

@ Roll into log 8 cm / 3'/4 in. in diameter, and then wrap

in plastic.
@ Freeze partially.

@ Cut into round slices 2 cm / % in thick.

® Place slices on baking sheet lined with floured silicone

mat.

® Bake in 200 °C / 390 °F oven until golden on top,

about 5 min.

@ Serve warm with caramelized creme fraiche

_ (see page 203).
from page 577

336 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

 Yields!.25 kg
RYE BREAD ADAPTED FROM HORST BANDEL

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

For the old rye bread soaker:

Water, hot 870 g 483% @ Combine and cool to room temperature.

Day-old rye bread 450 g 250% (D Vacuum seal.

loaf (homemade d) Refrigerate forl2 h.
or store-bought)
@ Squeeze out water.
® Reserve for rye dough.

Forthe sourdough starter:

Bread flour 200 g 111% ® Mix together.

Water, 18 °C/ 65 °F 100g 56% @ Ripen at21 °C/70 ‘■FforlO-12 h.

Rye flour 75 g 42% @ Measure 20 g of starter for rye dough.

Barley malt lOg 5.5%

Yeast (fresh) 5g 2.8%

Forthe cooked rye berries:

Water 1 kg 555% ® Vacuum seal together.

Rye berries. 250 g 139% @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C / 194 °F bath for 5 h.
soaked for 12 h @ Drain.
(5) Measure 180gofcooked rye berries.

Forthe rye molasses meal

Old rye bread soaker, 180 g 100%

@ Combine in bowl.
from above
@ Mix on medium speed with paddle attachment until mealy, about 2 min.
Blackstrap molasses 36 g 20%
@ Reserve rye molasses meal.
Sourdough starter, 20 g 11%
from above
Water 360 g 200% ® Combine in bowl.

Yeast (fresh) 6g 3.3%

131% @ Mix on low speed with paddle attachment for 10 min. Mixture should look sticky but not wet.
Rye molasses meal. 236 g
from above @ Ferment for 30 min at 25-30 °C / 77-86 °F.

High-gluten flour 224 g 125% @ Transfer dough to cast-iron mold.

Rye chops 224 g 125% @ Ferment for 1 h at 25-30 °C / 77-86 °F.

(chopped rye berries)
Cooked rye berries, 180 g 100%
from above
Salt 12.2 g 6.8%

as needed @ Sprinkle seeds over fermented dough in mold.

Sesame seeds
as needed @ Place uncovered mold on center rack of220 °C/ 425 °F oven, and bake for 10 min.
Sprouted flaxseeds
as needed @ Cover mold, and bake to core temperature of 99 “C/ 210 about 30 min.
Sunflower seeds
@ Remove cover, and let rest in mold at room temperature for at least 2 h.

Rendered beef marrow 90 g 50% @ Cut bread into 3.5 cm / llA in wedges.
@ Toast wedges in beef marrowfat in nonstick frying pan until golden and crisp, about 2 mm on
first side and 11/2 min on second side.

from page 5-59

337
FOAMS
MOROCCAN BATBOUT FLATBREAD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, lukewarm 320 g 107% ® Sprinkle yeast over water, and stir to dissolve.

Active dry yeast 7g 2.3% @ Let rest for 5 min.

All-purpose flour 300 g 100% @ Mix with yeast mixture.

Fine semolina flour 100 g 33% ® Knead dough forlO min.

Salt 8g 2.7% ® Divide into three equal portions.

Turmeric, peeled and 4g 1.3% ® Let rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 h.
finely grated @ Flatten portions into discs 1 cm / Ye in thick.
Golden oregano. 1.5g 0.5% ® Garnish with herbs.
finely minced
@ Refrigerate for up to 4 h.

Frying oil as needed @ Panfry discs on lightly oiled griddle or pan until cooked through and golden, about 2 min on
each side.

from page 5-139

SIPHONED SOUEELE A LA LORRAINE Yields 200 g (four individual souffles)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 150 g 150% ® Vacuum seal together, and cook sous vide in 90 °C /
194 °F bath forl'A h.
Bacon, rendered and 100 g 100%
drained @ Remove from bag, and strain; measure 78 g of milk.
For a cheese version of the souffle,
40% and cool.
add 54 g (54%) of grated Cruyere Sweet onions, thinly 40 g
cheese, and dissolve it with 0.4% sliced @ Combine with infused milk, and blend until smooth.
sodium citrate in the warm milk. ® Cook sous vide in 78 °C/172 “F bath for 30 min.
Cool completely, and proceed
Egg whites 100 g 100% ® Dust sugar over egg yolks, and let stand for20 min at
with the remaining instructions.
78% room temperature.
Use only 1.8 g (1.8%) of salt. Infused milk, from above 78 g
® Blend whites, salt, butter and infused milk with sugar
Egg yolks 20 g 20%
dusted egg volks until smooth, and cook sous vide in
Unsalted butter, melted 14 g 14%
78 °C/172 °F bath for 30 min to make egg base.
Fora chocolate version of the Salt 3.6 g 3.6%
souffle, replace corn starch with Sugar 1.1%
1-1 g
7 g (7%) tapioca starch, whisk 39 g @ Dry blend, and whisk into cooked egg base until
Corn starch 13.5 g 13.5%
(39%) of grated semisweet choco¬ dispersed evenly.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.31 g 0.31%
late into the warm milk, and omit
(Propanal Ester BV, EMC ® Pour into 11 whipping siphon, and hold in 55 °C/
theMaltrin, PGA, and 1.8 g ofthe
BioPolymer brand) 131 °F bath until ready to bake.
salt. Cool completely, and proceed
with instructions. Maltrin MlOO 3.1 g 3.1% ® To bake, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide
(CPC brand) and shake well.

Cream oftartar 0.7 g 0.7% @ Line the sides of four ramekins with parchment
Sous vide cookingtime of eggs collars.
will vary accordingto the size of @ Brush inside of ramekins with oil or melted butter, and
the batch. dust with flour.
@ Dispense souffle base two-thirds up sides of
ramekins.
® Put in oven pan, and fill pan with enough waterto
cover bottom halves of ramekins.

® Bake in 190 °C/ 375 °F oven for 20 min.

from page 4-297

338 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

GREEN OLIVE MERINGUE inspired by pierre cacnaire Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Green olives, pitted, bulk 900 g 300% @ Blend to fine puree.

Water 500 g 167% (D Strain through cheesecloth to extract juice.

@ Measure 300 g of juice.

Green olive juice, from 300 g 100% @ Whisk together.

above
Albumin powder 54 g 18%

Glucose syrup DE 40 50 g 16.5%

Maltrin MlOO 15 g 5% @ Fold into olive juice mixture.

(GPC brand) (3.7%r @ Whip in stand mixer until dense foam forms, about 5 min.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0-9 g 0.3% @ Pipes cm/2 in spheres of green olive meringue onto silicone baking mat.
CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)*
® If available, bake in 60 °C/140 °F vacuum oven atl9 mbar/ 0.275 psi for 2 h.
(f) Otherwise, bake in 77 °C /170 °F oven for 8 h, or 150 °C / 300 °F oven for 11/2 h.

Green olives, pitted lOOg 33% @ Dehydrate at 55 "C / 131 °F for 12 h.

(jj) Grind to fine powder in food processor.

N-Zorbit M 40 g 13.3% @ Whisk into powder.

(National Starch brand)

Salt to taste @ Season.

Extra-virgin olive oil 30 g 10% @ Whisk slowly into powder until fully incorporated.

@ Dust over meringues to serve.

from page 4-298 *{% of total iveight of green olive juice, albumin powder, and glucose)

SOY SAUCE CLOUD adapted from FERRAN ADRIA Yields200g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

lOOg 100% @ Place empty stand mixer bowl or stainless steel bowl in freezerfor 25 min.
Water, cold
160 Bloom gelatin 6g 6% @ Hydrate gelatin in water.
{3%)* @ Bring water to simmer until gelatin is just dissolved.

(4) Cool quickiv. Do not allow gelatin to set.

Soy sauce 100 g 100% © Combine, and whisk into gelatin mixture.

Xanthan gum (Xantana, 0.5 g 0.5% ® Place in freezer-chilled bowl.

Texturas brand) (0.25%)* @ Whip with electric whisk attachment or handheld automatic whisk until liquid becomes very
dense and forms tight foam, about 15 min.
® Cast foam into nonstick mold, 1.5 cm /% in thick.

® Freeze mold for 2 min to firm.

@ Transfer to refrigerator, and chill at least 2 h before using.
® rut into desired shapes, and serve as garnish for foie gras or monkfish liver terrine.

from page 4-299 *(% of total weight of water and soy sauce)

FOAMS 339
FREEZE-DRIED CARROT FOAM adapted from fe RRAN ADRIA Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

160 Bloom gelatin 15 g 3% ® Bloom gelatin in cold water.
Carrot juice 500 g 100% @ Warm 250 g ofjuice.
see page 2-336 (from 800 g @ Dissolve gelatin in warmed juice.
carrots)
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, Ig 0.2% @ Blend with remaining250 g ofjuice.
CP Kelco brand) ® Combine with gelatin mixture.
® Cool.

@ Transfer to 1 I whipping siphon, and charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide.
® Refrigerate for at leasts h.

@ Dispense foam in 2.5 cm /1 in thick layer into desired mold.

@ Freeze-dry for 48 h to create carrot meringue.
Honey 200 g 40% @ Combine.
Sugar 180g 36% ® Heat to 170°C/338‘'F.
Unsalted butter 50 g 10% ® Pour hot mixture onto silicone mat.

@ Leave at room temperature to harden completely.

® Break honey caramel into pieces, and measure 210 g.
Honey caramel, from 210g 42% @ Grind together in food processorto fine powder.
above
N-ZorbitM 65 g 13%
(National Starch brand) (31%)*
Freeze-dried mint powder 5 g 1% ® Break carrot meringue into large pieces.
see page 188
@ Garnish with honey caramel and mint powders.
from page 4-300 *{% of total weight of honey caramel used)

GRUYERE SOUFFLE Yields 500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 250 g 111% ® Combine, and bringto simmer.
Sodium citrate 8g 3.5%
Salt 2.5g 1%
Gruyere cheese, finely 150 g 67% ® Blend in hot water until completely melted.
grated @ Centrifuge at 27,500^ or higher fori h.

@ Strain, and measure 225 g of cheese water.

This recipe is incredibly versatile.
Gruyere water, from 225 g 100% ® Blend until powder dissolves, and allow to hydrate,
Any cheese can be used forthis
above refrigerated, for at least 6 h.
see page 20 preparation. But, more importantly,
the souffle base can be molded and
Albumin powder 32 g 14%
cut into any shape and reheated
Tartaric acid 0.4 g 0.18% ® Add, and whip to stiff peaks. for service, thereby allowing you
Egg yolks, blended 60 g 27% @ Add and rewhip. to make a square souffle with a
Corn maltodextrin 40 g 17.5% ® Cast into desired mold. hollowed center that can accom¬
(Maltrin MlOO, GPC modate a custard filling.
@ Steam at 77 °C /170 °F until fully set. Cool cheese
brand)
souffle.
Gruyere, finely grated 120 g 53% ® Spread on silicone mat.

® Bake in 190 °C/ 375 °F oven for 15 min, until crisp and
golden.

® Cool completely.
N-Zorbit M 8g 3.5% @ Combine with cooled cheese.
(National Starch brand)
@ Grind in food processorto fine cheese powder.
Cauliflower creme lOOg 44% @ Warm vacuum-sealed creme anglaise at 70 °C/ 158 ‘’F
anglaise for 15 min.
see page 235
® Toss cold cheese souffle in cheese powder until
evenly coated.

® Reheat in oven at 250 °C / 480 °F until outside is crisp,

about 2 min.

@ Serve with warmed creme anglaise.

from page 4-301

340 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM BEIGNETS Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Halibut brandade, 150 g 100% ® Fold together and reserve. This mixture can be deep-fried, as it is similar to very aerated
see page 112 Portuguese bacalao fritters and French accras.
Pateachoux 250 g 166%
see below
Carbonated water, 180 g 120% @ Combine to make batter.
refrigerated ©Transfertol 1 whipping siphon.
All-purpose flour 60 g 40% @ Charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide, and shake vigorously.
Tapioca starch 60 g 40%
Trehalose or isomalt 30 g 20%

Vodka 20 g 13.5%

Egg whites 45 g 30% @ Whip to stiff peaks.

@ Fold into brandade and pate a choux mixture.
@ Transfer to piping bag.

Zucchini blossoms 75 g 50% ® Pipe mixture into zucchini blossoms.

(about
eight blossoms)

Frying oil as needed ® To serve, dispense batter into open container.

(3) Dip stuffed blossoms to coat fully.
® Deep-fry in 195 °C/ 380 °F oil until golden brown, about 3 min.
@ Drain on paper towel-lined tray.

Salt as needed ® Season beignets.

from page 5-153

pAteAchoux Yields 725 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk, heated to 250 g 100% ® Disperse Methocel over hot milk, shearing constantly
90“C/194°F with immersion blender, for3 min.

Methocel SGA150 3.2 g 1.3% @ Vacuum seal.

(Dow brand) (0.5%)* (D Refrigerate for 12 h to hydrate.

Unsalted butter, melted 70 g 28% ® Blend with milk, and bringto boil.

Extra virgin olive oil 40 g 16%

Salt 5g 2%

Sugar 5g 2%

All-purpose flour, sifted 120 g 48% ® Add to hot milk mixture all at once.
® Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture forms ball
and pot is coated with shiny film of residual dough,
about5 min.

Eggs 250 g 100% @ Transfer ball of dough to stand mixer.

® Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed with
paddle attachment until incorporated.

® Refrigerate until use.

from page 5-152 *{% of total weight of milk, butter, olive oil, and eggs)

FOAMS 341
PUFFED SNACKS

@ Dehydrate. Dry the food until it is 11%-15% water by weight as measured

@ Select a food that puffs well. The table Best Bets for Puffed Snacks
by a moisture analyzer. Dehydration times in the table are given as a
below lists our recommendations and any prep steps.
guide and will vary. Whole grains do not need a dehydration step
@ Parcook (optional). Many foods puff better if first dehydrated by
because they are already dehydrated.
parcooking. See the table for methods, times, and temperatures.
@ Fry or microwave at 100% power.

Best Bets for Puffed Snacks

Microwave
Parcook Dehydrate Deep-fry at 800 W
Ingredient Preparation Method (°C) (°F) (min) (°C) (°F) (h) (°C) (°F) (s) (s) page
legumes whole coverwith 1 bar/ 15 50 120 50 min 190 375 40 60 344
(chickpeas, water and 15 psi (in paper
lentils, and mung pressure- bag)
beans work best) cook
floury potatoes sliced to 2 mm/ blanch in oil 157 315 n/a 195 380 30 n/a below
(forpommes '/e in thick
soufflees)
pregelatinized roll to 1-2 mm/ n/a 65 150 1 200 390 15 35 344
starch cracker Vsi-Vw in thick
processed grains whole boil until 100 212 25 55 130 10 205 400 45 30 next
(white rice and tender page
pearl barley work
best)
rice crisp (white spread in a layer boil to a 100 212 1 h 50 120 3 200 390 12 40 next
rice) 2 mm thick after porridge page
cooking (falling apart)
tapioca starch roll before cooking steam 100 212 70 (for loaf) 50 120 1 205 400 12 45 next
cracker or slice after cook- 30 (for page
ingtol-2mm/ prerolled)
/32-/I6 in thick
dried wheat pasta whole boil 100 212 35 55 130 10 205 400 45 2 min
wholegrains whole n/a n/a 200 390 15 90 344
(corn, wild rice, (in paper
and barley with bag)
husk work best)
from page 4-302

POMMES SOUFFLEES Yields 325 g @ Preheat two fryers or pots of oil. Bring oil in first pot to 145 °C / 290 °F and
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING oil in second potto 195 °C/390 °F.

Russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into 400 g 100% (D Soak potatoes in ice water for 30 min.
ovals or rectangles 3 mm /Ve in thick to d) Dry slices after they have firmed.
3.5 mm /%2 in thick @ Blanch in 145 °C / 290 °F oil. Slices will blister in 7-8 min; cook them for
Frying oil as needed another 60 s, and then drain, and pat dry. Rest for at least 5 min and for up
Salt to taste to 4 h before puffing.
from page 4-306 ® Puff in 195 "C / 390 °F oil for 1-3 min, moving potatoes constantly. Do not
overcrowd pot. Remove each slice as soon as it has fully puffed and turned
evenly brown.

® Drain gently on paper towels. Season with salt.

342 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

TAPIOCA STARCH CRACKER Yields 125 g
@ Blend all ingredients to make very fluid, thixotropic dough. Use food
INGREDIENT processor, ifavailable, or wet hands and flexible spatula.
QUANTITY SCALING
Warm waterlorflavorful liquid) 120 g 60% @ Roll dough in plastic wrap into tight cylinder, and tie ends firmly.

Tapioca starch 200 g 100% @ Steam 40-50 min until dough turns gray and slightly translucent.

Ground meat or shellfish (optional) 65 g @ Chill for at least 5 h. Dough will harden as it cools.
32.5%
Salt 2.5% © Cut into slices 1-2.5 mm /'Ai-'A in thick, using meat slicer, ifavailable.
5g
Thin chips will be light and crisp. Thicker chips will be firm, with
Frying oil as needed Styrofoam-like crunch similarto the prawn crackers that Vietnamese
from page 4-303 restaurants often serve.

Use only polyethylene-based @ Dehydrate at 50 °C /122 °F until chips attain dry, yet flexible, plastic-like
plastic wrap forthis recipe. Films texture, about 3 h. Their residual moisture content should be 11-14%.
based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC) To preserve for later use, vacuum seal under light pressure.

could leach into the food when @ Deep-fry in 198 °C/ 390 "F oil until fully puffed, 20-30 s. Remove from
used this way. oil, and drain on papertowels.

BLACK SESAME RICE CRISPS INSPIRED BY FERRAN ADRIA Yields300g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

White 320 g 100% © Boil until rice is overcooked and achieves porridge-like texture, about 1 h.
long-grain rice
@ Puree with hand blender until nearly smooth but with small fragments throughout.
Water 1 kg 313%
Black sesame seeds 75 g 23% @ Mix into rice.
@ Spread in layer 1.5 mm / Me thick on silicone mat.

© Dehydrate at 50 "C /120 °F until dry but still pliable, about 3 h.

® Break into large fragments, and reserve in dry environment.
frying oil as needed @ Heat oil to 190 °C / 375 °F.
® Deep-fry rice crisps until crisp and slightly puffed, about 12 s.
© Drain on papertowels.
Salt to taste ® Season.
from page 4-304

RICE CRISP Yields 350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 1 kg 500% ® Combine rice with 800 g of water. Reserve remaining
Sushi rice 200 g 100% 200 g of water.
© Cook until consistency of porridge, about 1 h.
Glutinous rice flour 120 g 60% © Make slurry with 200 g of water, and simmer for 2 min.
@ Combine with cooked sushi rice, and puree until
mostly smooth, but with small fragments throughout.
© Pour onto silicone mat in layer 1.5 mm in thick.
© Dehydrate in 50 °C /122 °F oven until fully desiccated,
about3 h.
@ Break into large fragments.
® Store in airtight container in cool, dry place.
Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry rice crisps in 190 °C / 375 °F oil until very
crispy and dry, about 45 s.
Fine salt as needed @ Drain on papertowels, and season with salt.
from page 5-32

FOAMS 343
 Yields200g
PUFFED CHICKPEAS
® Cover chickpeas with twice their volume in cold INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
This process can also be applied to
puff whole grains such as forbidden water. Soak, refrigerated, for 12 h. Drain. Water 500 g 200%
rice and barley (both pictured @ Combine soaked chickpeas with water in pressure Dry chickpeas 250 g 100%
above before and after puffing) or cooker, and cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar /15 psi
Frying oil as needed
others such as wild rice, amaranth, for 15 min. Rest chickpeas for 5 min, and then drain
Salt to taste
and corn. Simply omit the cooking and cool.
step, and deep-fry in 200 °C / from page 4-307
@ Spread cooked chickpeas evenly on dehydrator tray,
390 °F oil until they puff, about 15 s and dehydrate at 50 °C /120 “F for 50 min.
—or instead coatthem with oil and
@ Deep-fry dried chickpeas in 190 °C / 375 °F oil until
microwave them at 800 W for 90 s
puffed and golden, about 40 s. Season.
in a sealed paper bag,

PUFFED CRAB CRACKER Yieidsi25g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Shellfish stock 400 g 100% ® Reduce to 55 g.

see page 6 0 Cool.

Tapioca starch 150 g 37.5% @ Whisk together with reduced stock to form dough.

Water, warmed 55 g 14%

Raw crabmeat or prawn 55 g 14% ® Blend with dough in food processor.

meat, ground ® Spread paste on plasticwrap, and roll into cylinders cm /2 in. in diameter.

Salt 7g 2% ® Steam fori h 10 min.

@ Cool, and then refrigerate until rigid, at least 5 h.
® Cut into slices 1 mm / /si in thick, using meat slicer if available.

@ Dehydrate slices at 50 °C /120 °F until brittle, about 1 h.

@ Store in airtight container at room temperature.

as needed ® Deep-fry crab crackers in 190 °C / 375 °F oil until puffed, 5-10 s. Dry on absorbent paper
Frying oil
towels.

from page 5190

CHEESE PUFFS inspired by WYLIE DUERESNE Yieldsl70g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

N-Zorbit M 50 g 16.7% @ Blend until smooth paste.

(National Starch brand) @ Spread thinly on nonstick sheet.
Thin Cheddar cheese 25 g 8.4% @ Dehydrate at 50 °C /122 °F for 8-12 h until completely dry.
sauce @ Grind to make cheese powder.
see page 299
Crisp Coat UC 66 g 22% ® Dry blend powders.
(National Starch brand)
Ultra-Sperse M 16.5g 5.5%
(National Starch brand)

Salt 4g 1.3%

Cheddar cheese water 300 g 100% ® Whisk cheese water into powder mixture to form paste.
see page 20 @ Spread onto silicone mats in one layer, 3 mm //sin thick.

® Dry in 65 °C/150 °F oven fori h.

® Break into desired shapes.

Frying oil as needed @ Fry shapes for 10-15 s at 200 °C / 390 °F.

® Drain on paper towels.

@ Dust cheese powder over puffs.

from page 4-305

344 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

SOCARRATTUILE Yields 170 g (about 24 discs)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 160 g 160% @ Vacuum seal together.
Bomba rice lOOg 100 % @ Cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath until very tender.
about 45 min.
Olive oil 5g 5% @ Puree with cooked rice mixture until smooth.
Salt 2 g 2 % @ Spread puree evenly on silicone baking mat.
Puffed wild rice 50 g 50% ® Sprinkle puree evenly with puffed rice.
see page 342
® Bake in 150 °C/302 °F oven until crisp, aboutlO min.
Freeze-dried piquillo Ig 1% @ Dust rice crisp, while still warm, with piquillo pepper
pepper powderior sweet powder.
paprika)
see page 188 ® Break into desired shapes.
® Serve, or reserve in airtight container.
from page 5-245

CANDIED PUFFED OATS Yields 200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Honey 100 g 100 % ® Combine.
Trehalose 40 g 40% @ Heat tol85°C/365°F.
Water 20 g 20 %
Baking soda 0.7g 0.7% @ Stir into hot sugar mixture.
Puffed oats 40 g 40% ® Fold into hot sugar mixture.
see page 342
® Pour onto silicone baking mat, and set at room
Cocoa nibs 9g 9% temperature.
Salt 1g 1 % ® Break into small chunks, and reserve in airtight
Quatre epices 0.2 g 0 2 . % container in cool, dry place.
see page 48

from page 5128

SCALLOP MOCHI Yields 60 g @ Vacuum seal dried scallops with water.

@ Cook in 90 °C/194 °F bath foriy2 h.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
@ Remove from bag, and strain. Measure 50 g of scallop infusion, and cool.
Water lOOg 200 %
@ Mix mochi flour, scallop infusion, glucose, and salt into smooth paste.
Dried scallops (store-bought) 20 g 40%
® Microwave dough for2'/2 min on full power. The dough will turn opaque
Mochi flour 50 g 100 %
and become very elastic.
Scallop infusion, from above 50 g 100 %
® Roll out mochi dough to 2 mm in thick. Place dough between two
Glucose syrup DE 40 25 g 50%
silicone mats and use rolling pin.
Salt l-2g 2.4%
@ Remove top mat, and dehydrate dough on bottom mat in a
Frying oil as needed 107 °C /225 °F oven for 10 min.
Freeze-dried scallops, ground to fine 5g 10% ® Flip dough over, and dehydrate forlO min more.
powder
® Run dough through pasta machine to 1 mm / >32 in thickness.
see page 58
® Cut with round cutter into scallop shapes.
from page 4-308
® Lay each pair of cut shapes on top of each other, and laminate by running
them together through pasta roller.
@ Repeat lamination process with remaining dough.
® Dehydrate mochi discs at 60 °C/ 140 °F until leathery and pliable, about
30 min, to make light puffs. Dehydrate at same temperature for up to 5 h
until very dry to make very crispy, denser puffs.
@ Deep-fry dehydrated discs in 200 °C / 390 "F oil until fully puffed and
golden brown, about V/i min.
@ Dust with scallop powder.

FOAMS 345
GREMOLATA CRISP
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Parsley leaves 245 g 100% © Blanch until tenderand shock, about 2 min.

Water lOg 4% @ Blend with parsley to make fine puree.

© Pass through fine sieve, and measure 85 g.

Water 120 g 49% @ Cook rice until completely soft and mixture has consistency of porridge, about 35 min.

Long-grain white rice 50 g 20% © Puree in food processor, leaving small grain specks visible.

® Cool, and measure 100 g.

Rice puree, from above lOOg 41% © Combine.

Parsley puree. 85 g 35% ® Place crisp base in siphon, and charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges.

from above ® Dispense onto silicone mat, and spread evenly in thin layer.
Egg whites 75 g 30.5% ® Microwave at medium power (400 W) for 50-60 s to dehydrate. Sheet should be very crunchy.

Vodka 26 g 10.5% @ Break into uneven pieces.

Baking powder 5.2 g 2.1% @ Store crisps in airtight container at room temperature.
Salt 2.2 g 0.9%

Garlic powder 2g 0.8%

Lemon zest, grated 1.3g 0.5%

Lemon juice 0.5 g 0.2%

Black pepper, coarsely 0.4 g 0.16%

cracked
Ascorbic acid 0.35 g 0.14%

Lemon essential oil 0.1 g 0.04%

(two drops)

from page 5-64

346 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

VACUUM-SET FOAMS

AERATED MANGO SORBET Yields 700 g(17 portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAEING PROCEDURE

Sugar 280 g 56% © Whisk together in pot, and cook to 102 °C/216 °F; syrup density should reach 75 °Brix.

Water 120 g 24% © Measure and reserve 208 g of syrup.

Mango flesh, frozen 500 g 100% @ Puree until very smooth and slightly foamy.

Syrup, from above 208 g 41% © Place in bowl set over salted ice water, and stir until very cold and viscous.

Citric acid 10.4 g 2% © Pour 40 g of mango base into 1 pt Mason jars; repeat until all base is used (up to 17 jars).

© Attach lids and rings, and close until just snug.

© Place in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum until sorbet reaches top of jar.

® Freeze for at least 5 h.

® Remove from freezer, and open while frozen solid.
@ Replace lid, and allow sorbet to soften slightly at room temperature for 5 min before serving.

from page 4-311

EDIBLE PRUNE COALS vieidssoog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING @ Boil the dried prunes, with prune juice, Armagnac, and salt. Afterthe prune mixture
Dried prunes 200 g 100% has come to a boil, remove it from the heat, and let cool.

Prune juice lOOg 50% ©Vacuum seal the prunes and liquids together. This is an excellent way to marinate
prunes and store them easily until needed. Refrigerate the bag for 12 h, and then
Armagnac (or cognac) 60 g 30%
remove the prunes from the marinade.
Salt Ig 0.5%
© Arrange the prunes on a nonstick baking sheet, and brush them evenly with gum arabic
Water 20 g 10%
solution. Gum arabic acts as a moisture barrier and prevents the black syrup coating
Gum arabic lOg 5% (in a later step) from becoming sticky.
Sugar 75 g 37.5% @ Drytbe prunes in a 190 °C/375 °F oven for 6 min, turning them every 11/2 min to ensure
Trehalose 75 g 37.5% even drying. As a quicker alternative, use a blowtorch to lightly flash each prune s

Glucose, syrup DE 40 40 g 20% surface. Hold a low flame 10 cm / 4 in away from each prune. Roll the prune while
flashing until its surface is uniformly leathery.
Water 30 g 15%
© Whisk the sugars and water together to create the black coating syrup. Caramelize it by
Carbon black powder 5g 2.5%
heating it in a pan to 170 °C / 338 °F. Remove the mixture immediately from the heat, and
(natural food coloring)
then whisk in the baking soda and carbon black powder. Be careful-the hot syrup will
Baking soda, sieved lOg 5%
bubble violently.
Spiced ash 20 g 10%
© Skewerthe dried prunes, and dip them immediately into the hot, black, foamy syrup.
see page 206
Coat all surfaces evenly, and place the coated prunes on a silicone-lined baking sheet.
from page 4-314 Then place the sheet immediately in a vacuum chamber.
© Pull a vacuum for 20 s. As pressure in the vacuum chamber decreases, the higher
pressure of the carbon dioxide inside the bubbles causes them to swell. A sugar coating
will form. Turn off the machine, and maintain the pressure. Allow the sugar foam to
harden forlO min before opening the machine. The sugar should transform into a rigid
glass that resists collapse when the vacuum is released. Store the prunes in a dry
chamber, for no more than 8 h.
® To serve, dust edible ash over the prepared prunes. Dusting the prune coals with ash
made from pain d'epices powder blended with food coloring provides a final touch of
realism.

FOAMS 347
AERATED FOIE GRAS ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 425 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Simplesse 5.5 g 1.7% (T) Dry blend powders.

(CP Kelco brand) (125%)*
Agar 1-7g 0.5%
(0.4%)*

Konjac gum 0.7g 0.2%

(TIC Gums brand) (0.16%)*
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.3 g 0.1%
CP Kelco brand) (0.07%)*

Foie gras torchon 315 g 100% (D Microwave in bowl until melted, about 2 min.
see page 104
(D Add gum mixture, blending until completely incorporated.

Water 105 g 33.3% @ Heatwaterin microwave for 11/2 min.

Eggyolk 20 g 6.3% ® Combine hot water slowly with yolk to temper, using hand blender.
(one large) ® Mix in gum and terrine mixture, emulsifying fully.
@ Blend emulsion with hand blender to whip in air as mixture cools.

® Cool mixture to 36 °C / 97 °F.

® Transfer to one-sixth-size hotel pan.
@ Place in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum until mixture rises to top of pan.

® Place pan over ice-water bath, and allow foie gras to set for 2 h.
@ Break into uneven pieces, and serve.
from page4-3n *(%oftotal weight of Last three ingredients)

AERATED GRUYERE Yields 360 g

INSPIRED BY H, ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AKl KAMOZAWA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Skim milk 180 g 100% @ Blend until powders are incorporated.

160 Bloom gelatin 3.6 g 2% @ Bringto boil over medium heat.

(1%)* @ Remove from heat.
Agar(Texturas brand) 1g 0.55%
(0.28%)*
Locust bean gum (POR/A2 0.1 g 0.05%
Powder, TIC Gums brand) (0.03%)*

Gruyere cheese, grated 180g 100% @ Add to hot milk mixture, and stir until cheese has melted.

Salt 3g 1.6% ® Pour into blender, and process until completely homogenous.
Cayenne pepper powder 0.2 g 0.1% ® Transfer to 11 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.

@ Dispense into four 235 ml / 8 fl oz Mason jars.

® Seal with lids immediately.
® Refrigerate for at least 5 h before opening.

from page 4-312 *(% of total weight of cheese and skim milk)

348 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

AERATED COFFEE ICE CREAM adapted from alex stupak Yields 300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Whole milk 500 g 100% @ Combine, and vacuum seal. Infuse, refrigerated,
Coffee beans 50 g 10% for 24 h.
@ Strain.
Ice cream is a foam. Air bubbles,
Sugar 122 g 24.4% @ Whisk into warm milk until dissolved.
called overrun for ice cream,
Dextrose 97.5 g 19.5% typically make up 33%-50% of ice
Egg yolks 24.5 g 4.9% @ Pour warm milk over yolks, and whisk to temper. cream by volume. Alex Stupak
(from two eggs) increases that percentage by using
Propylene glycol alginate 4.9 g 1% @ Transfer mixture to blender, and mix in PGA on low a vacuum to expand the foam.
(Protanal Ester BV 4830, (0.5%)* speed.
EMC BioPolymer brand) @ Increase to high speed, and blend fori min.
Cream cheese 80.5 g 16.1% @ Add to blender, and continue blending until smooth.
Unsalted butter 73 g 14.6% (D Cool completely over ice water.
Salt 1.95g 0.4% @ Churn in ice cream machine accordingto
manufacturer's instructions, or freeze in Pacojet
beaker and pacotize.
@ Transfer ice cream to piping bag, and pipe layer 1 cm /
1/2 in thick into bottom of Food Saver canister; or pipe
into Mason jars, and cover with lids.
@ Place container or jars in vacuum machine, and pull
vacuum until foaming ice cream reaches top of
container.
@ Remove from machine, and freeze for at least 8 h
before opening and serving.
from page 4-312 *(% of total weight of milk, sugar, dextrose, yolk, cream cheese, and butter)

AERATED CHOCOLATE ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL YieldsSOOg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Milk chocolate 500 g 100% ® Combine, and vacuum seal.
(33% cocoa solids) @ Melt sous vide in 53 °C /127 °F bath for 12 h.
Mycryo spray-dried 10 g 2% @ Place sheet of aluminum foil on bottom of 5 cm by 20 cm by 30.5cm / 2 in by 8 in by 12 in mold.
cocoa butter Set mold in vacuum chamber.
(Callebaut brand)
® Transfer melted chocolate mixture to metal or glass bowl.
Mandarin essential oil 5g 1%
© Stir constantly until cooled to 28 °C/ 82 'F.
(optional)
® Place bowl of chocolate over simmering water, and stir constantly until chocolate
Polyglycerol Tg 0.2%
reaches 32 °C / 90 °F.
polyricinoleate (PGPR)
@ Transfer to warmed 1 1 whipping siphon, and charge with two cartridges of nitrous dioxide.
® Dispense quickly into foil-lined mold.
@ Pull vacuum, and allow foam to rise to top of mold.
@ Turn off vacuum machine, but hold foam under vacuum for 1 h to set.
@ Remove aerated chocolate from chamber, and store in cool, dry environment.
from page 4-313

The British Aero candy bar was

the original inspiration for Heston
Blumenthal's aerated chocolate,
which we have adapted forthis
book.

FOAMS 349
 Yields 125 g
COFFEE BUTTER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Roasted coffee beans 175 g 100% (T) Seal together in Mason jar.
Unsalted butter 125 g 71% @ Boil for 4 h. Or, vacuum seal mixture, and cook sous vide in 90 °C/194 °F bath for 4 h.

(D Refrigerate. __

from page 4-371

Cold extraction is ourfavorite way to make coffee for use as an ingredient For more on extracting flavors using butter and otherfats, see page 2-328.
in cooking. A different approach to incorporating coffee flavor in food is You might think that extraction in this coffee butter would be more effective
to use commercial instant espresso powder. It can even be used dry, if the coffee were ground. It would be, but unfortunately, that makes the
in a spice rub for a steak, for example. flavor unbalanced, so we prefer whole beans here.

Yields 200 g
STABLE LATTE EOAM
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Skim milk 400 g 100% @ Dry blend powders, and disperse in cold milk.

Whey protein isolate 4g 1% @ Blend until fully dissolved.

Sucrose esters 4.8 g 1.2% d) Steam with steam wand, or whip with an Aerolatte wand until stiff head offoam forms.
(Sucro, Texturas brand) 2-3 min.
@ Stirto moisten with milk.
@ Foam remains stable for up to 30 min.

from page 4-392

350 VOLUME 6 - KITCHEN MANUAL

NOTES
nwAi j

COFFEE 351
REFERENCE TABLES Converting Temperature
Celsius to Fahrenheit to
Fahrenheit Celsius

(“C) (°F) (»F) (°c)

Converting Temperature 27 80.6 27 -2.8

To convert temperatures from Celsius to 28 82.4 28 -2.2

Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8, then add 32 29 84.2 29 -1.7

to the product. 30 86.0 30 -1.1
To convert from Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 31 87.8 31 -0.6
32, then multiply the result by Vs (0.56).
32 89.6 32 0.0

Celsius to Fahrenheit to 33 91.4 33 0.6

Fahrenheit Celsius
34 93.2 34 1.1
(°c) (“F) (“F) (°c)
35 95.0 35 1.7
-196.0 -320.8 -200.0 -128.9
36 96.8 36 2.2
-78.5 -109.3 -80.0 -62.2
37 98.6 37 2.8
-60.0 -76.0 -60.0 -51.1
38 100.4 38 3.3
-40.0 -40.0 -40.0 -40.0
39 102.2 39 3.9
-20.0 -4.0 -20.0 -28.9
40 104.0 40 4.4
0 32.0 0 -17.8
41 105.8 41 5.0
1 33.8 1 -17.2
42 107.6 42 5.6
2 35.6 2 -16.7
43 109.4 43 6.1
3 37.4 3 -16.1
44 111.2 44 6.7
4 39.2 4 -15.6
45 113.0 45 7.2
5 41.0 5 -15.0
46 114.8 46 7.8
6 42.8 6 -14.4
47 116.6 47 8.3
7 44.6 7 -13.9
48 118.4 48 8.9
8 46.4 8 -13.3
49 120.2 49 9.4
9 48.2 9 -12.8
50 122.0 50 10.0
10 50.0 10 -12.2
51 123.8 51 10.6
11 51.8 11 -11.7
52 125.6 52 11.1
12 53.6 12 -11.1
53 127.4 53 11.7
13 55.4 13 -10.6
54 129.2 54 12.2
14 57.2 14 -10.0
55 131.0 55 12.8
15 59.0 15 -9.4
56 132.8 56 13.3
16 60.8 16 -8.9
57 134.6 57 13.9
17 62.6 17 -8.3
58 136.4 58 14.4
18 64.4 18 -7.8
59 138.2 59 15.0
19 66.2 19 -7.2
60 140.0 60 15.6
20 68.0 20 -6.7
61 141.8 61 16.1
21 69.8 21 -6.1
62 143.6 62 16.7
22 71.6 22 -5.6
63 145.4 63 17.2
23 73.4 23 -5.0
64 147.2 64 17.8
24 75.2 24 -4.4
65 149.0 65 18.3
25 77.0 25 -3.9
66 150.8 66 18.9
26 78.8 26 -3.3

352 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Converting Temperature Converting Temperature
Celsius to Fahrenheit to Celsius to Fahrenheit to
Fahrenheit Celsius Fahrenheit Celsius

(°c) (“F) (“F) (°c) (°c) (»F) (°F) (°c)

67 152.6 67 19.4 135 275 135 57.2

68 154.4 68 20.0 140 284 140 60.0

69 156.2 69 20.6 145 293 145 62.8

70 158.0 70 21.1 150 302 150 65.6

71 159.8 71 21.7 155 311 155 68.3

72 161.6 72 22.2 160 320 160 71.1

73 163.4 73 22.8 165 329 165 73.9

74 165.2 74 23.3 170 338 170 76.7

75 167.0 75 23.9 175 347 175 79.4

76 168.8 76 24.4 180 356 180 82.2

77 170.6 77 25.0 185 365 185 85.0

78 172.4 78 25.6 190 374 190 87.8

79 174.2 79 26.1 195 383 195 90.6

80 176.0 80 26.7 200 392 200 93.3

81 177.8 81 27.2 205 401 205 96.1

82 179.6 82 27.8 210 410 210 98.9

83 181.4 83 28.3 215 419 215 101.7

84 183.2 84 28.9 220 428 220 104.4

85 185.0 85 29.4 225 437 225 107.2

86 186.8 86 30.0 230 446 230 110.0

87 188.6 87 30.6 235 455 235 112.8

88 190.4 88 31.1 240 464 240 115.6

89 192.2 89 31.7 245 473 245 118.3

90 194.0 90 32.2 250 482 250 121.1

91 195.8 91 32.8 255 491 255 123.9

92 197.6 92 33.3 260 500 260 126.7

93 199.4 93 33.9 265 509 265 129.4

94 201.2 94 34.4 270 518 270 132.2

95 203.0 95 35.0 275 527 275 135.0

96 204.8 96 35.6 280 536 280 137.8

97 206.6 97 36.1 285 545 285 140.6

98 208.4 98 36.7 290 554 290 143.3

99 210.2 99 37.2 295 563 295 146.1

100 212 100 37.8 300 572 300 148.9

105 221 105 40.6 USEFUL TEMPERATURES

110 230 110 43.3 Boiling point of liquid nitrogen:

115 239 115 46.1 -196 °C/-321 °F

Sublimation temperature of dry ice:

120 248 120 48.9
-78.5 °C/-109.3 °F
125 257 125 51.7
Freezing point of water:
130 266 130 54.4 0 “C / 32 °F
Boiling point of water at sea level:
100 °c/212°f

REFERENCE TABLES 353

Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients Converting Weights
To convert the weights given in our recipes to volumetric measurements, To convert weights from grams to
divide the number of grams by the conversion factor below. ounces, divide by 28.35. To convert from
ounces to grams, multiply by 28.35.
1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp V2 cup 1 cup

PANTRY ITEMS
Grams to ounces Ounces to grams
Flours and Starches

0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160 (g) (oz) (oz) (g)

00 flour
0.1 0.004 0.1 2.8
all-purpose flour 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
0.2 0.007 0.2 5.7
almond flour 0.57 2.8 8.4 68 135
0.3 0.011 0.3 8.5
buckwheat flour, sifted 0.55 2.7 8.1 65 130
0.4 0.014 0.4 11.3
cake flour 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117
0.5 0.018 0.5 14.2
chickpea flour, sifted 0.56 2.8 8.3 66 132
0.6 0.021 0.6 17.0
cornmeal 0.67 3.3 9.9 79 158
0.7 0.025 0.7 19.8
cornstarch 0.03 0.2 0.5 4 8
0.8 0.028 0.8 22.7
durum flour 0.63 3.1 9.4 75 150
0.9 0.032 0.9 25.5
gluten flour 0.04 0.2 0.6 5 10
1 0.035 1 28.4
rice flour, glutinous 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117
2 0.071 2 56.7
rice flour, sweet 0.63 3.1 9.4 75 150
3 0.106 3 85.1
semolina 0.79 3.9 11.7 94 187
4 0.141 4 113.4
tapioca 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
5 0.176 5 141.8
Grains and Legumes 6 0.212 6 170.1
barley 0.70 3.5 10.4 83 166 7 0.247 7 198.5

brown rice crisp 0.15 0.8 2.3 18 36 8 0.282 8 226.8

chickpeas 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 9 0.317 9 255.2

lentils, black (urad dal) 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 10 0.353 10 283.5

lentils, green 0.87 4.3 12.9 104 207 11 0.388 11 311.9

oats, rolled 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100 12 0.423 12 340.2

oats, steel-cut 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178 13 0.459 13 368.6

oats, toasted 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100 14 0.494 14 396.9

peas, black-eyed 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 15 0.529 15 425.3

quinoa 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178 16 0.564 16 453.6

0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210 17 0.600 17 482.0

rice, Arborio

0.79 3.9 11.8 94 188 18 0.635 18 510.3

rice, basmati
19 0.670 19 538.7
rice, jasmine 0.83 4.1 12.3 98 196
20 0.705 20 567.0
rice, paella 0.80 4.0 11.9 95 190
21 0.741 21 595.4
rice, sushi 0.90 4.4 13.3 106 212
22 0.776 22 623.7
rice, wild 0.74 3.6 10.9 88 175
23 0.811 23 652.1
rye, berries 0.78 3.9 11.6 93 185
24 0.847 24 680.4
rye, cracked 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
25 0.882 25 708.8
soy beans 0.40 2.0 5.9 48 95
30 1.058 30 850.5
tapioca, small pearl 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178
35 1.235 35 992.3

40 1.411 40 1,134.0

354 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Converting Weights Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients
Grams to ounces Ounces to grams 1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 1/2 cup 1 cup

(g) (oz) (oz) (g) Liquids

45 1.587 45 1,275.8 cocoa butter 0.58 2.9 8.6 69 138
50 1.764 50 1,417.5 cream, whipping 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
55 1.940 55 1,559.3 creme fraiche 0.96 4.8 14.3 114 228
60 2.116 60 1,701.0 milk, 1% fat 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232
65 2.293 65 1,842.8 milk, 2% fat 0.93 4.6 13.7 110 219
70 2.469 70 1,984.5
milk, skim 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232
75 2.646 75 2,126.3
milk, soy 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
80 2.822 80 2,268.0
milk, whole 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
85 2.998 85 2,409.8
oils 0.78 3.9 11.6 93 185
90 3.175 90 2,551.5
vinegars 0.86 4.3 12.8 102 204
95 3.351 95 2,693.3
vodka 0.80 4.0 11.9 95 190
100 3.527 100 2,835.0
water 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
110 3.880 110 3,118.5
wine 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210
120 4.233 120 3,402.0
Nuts
130 4.586 130 3,685.5
almonds, blanched 0.61 3.0 9.1 73 145
140 4.938 140 3,969.0
almonds, marcona, roasted 0.55 2.7 8.1 65 130
150 5.291 150 4,252.5
cashews, roasted 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
160 5.644 160 4,536.0
hazelnuts, peeled and roasted 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
170 5.996 170 4,819.5

180 6.349 180 5,103.0 macadamia nuts, roasted 1.14 5.6 16.9 135 270

190 6.702 190 5,386.5 pine nuts, roasted 0.61 3.0 9.1 73 145

200 7.055 200 5,670.0 pistachios, peeled and roasted 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120

250 8.818 250 7,087.5 walnuts, roasted 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90

300 10.582 300 8,505.0 Sauces and Syrups

350 12.346 350 9,922.5 barley malt 1.69 8.3 25.0 200 400

400 14.109 400 11,340.0 ketchup 1.19 5.9 17.6 141 282

450 15.873 450 12,757.5 maple syrup 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344

500 17.637 500 14,175.0 molasses 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
550 19.400 550 15,592.5 soy sauce, brown 1.08 5.3 16.0 128 256
600 21.164 600 17,010.0 soy sauce, white 1.08 5.3 16.0 128 256
650 22.928 650 18,427.5 tomato paste 1.12 5.5 16.6 133 265
700 24.691 700 19,845.0
Worcestershire sauce 1.19 5.9 17.6 141 282
750 26.455 750 21,262.5
Sugars
800 28.219 800 22,680.0
agave nectar 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
850 29.982 850 24,097.5
fructose 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195
900 31.746 900 25,515.0
glucose 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
950 33.510 950 26,932.5
honey 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
1,000 35.273 1,000 28,350.0
isomalt 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225
1 pound = 453.59 g = 16 oz
1 kg = 2.2 lb sugar, brown 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170

sugar, Demerara 0.70 3.5 10.4 83 166

REFERENCE TABLES 355

Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients Common Conversion Factors
1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp Vi cup 1 cup To convert from: To: Multiply by:
sugar, granulated 0.87 4.3 12.8 103 205 mi tsp 0.203

sugar, muscovado 1.08 5.3 15.9 128 255 tsp ml 4.93

sugar, palm 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195 ml Tbsp 0.068

sugar, powdered 0.49 2.4 7.2 58 115 Tbsp ml 14.787

sugar, raw cane 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232 ml cup 0.004

SEASONINGS cup ml 236.59

Chilies, Dry tsp cup 0.021

Aleppo peppers, crushed 0.50 2.5 7.4 59 118 cup tsp 48

black peppercorns, ground 0.32 1.6 4.8 38 77 Tbsp cup 0.063

0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144 cup Tbsp 16

black peppercorns, whole
ml oz 0.034
cayenne, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
oz ml 29.574
Hungarian paprika, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
pint qt 0.5
pimenton de la Vera, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
qt pint 2
pink peppercorns, whole 0.44 2.3 6.5 52 104
q‘ gal 0.25
red chili, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
gal qt 4
Sichuan pepper, crushed 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
qt 1 0.946
Thai chili, flakes 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
1 qt 1.057
white peppercorns, whole 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
1 gal 0.264
Herbs and Aromatics, Fresh, Minced
gal 1 3.785
basil 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93
OZ lb 0.063
chamomile, dry blossoms, 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48
lb OZ 16
powder
g oz 0.035
chamomile, dry blossoms, whole 0.10 0.5 1.5 12 24
oz g 28.35
cilantro 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
g lb 0.002
elderberry, dry 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
lb g 453.592
garlic 1.15 5.7 17.0 136 272
oz kg 0.028
hawthorne berries 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144
kg OZ 35.274
heather tips 0.17 0.8 2.5 20 40
lb kg 0.454
juniper berries 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
kg lb 2.2
lavender 0.14 0.7 2.0 16 32
mm in 0.394
lemon zest, grated 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
in mm 25.4
lemongrass, minced 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
cm in 0.394
licorice root, chunks 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96 in cm 2.54
lime zest, grated 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152 m ft 3.3
mint 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48 ft m 0.305
orange zest 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152 s min 0.017
oregano 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93 j BTU 0.001

parsley 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120 BTU J 1,055.10

rosemary 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93 kcal BTU 3.966

shallots 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117 BTU kcal 0.252

356 VOLUME 6 • KITCHEN MANUAL

Common Conversion Factors Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients
To convert from: To: Multiply by: 1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 1/2 cup 1 cup

kcal 4,184 tarragon 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80

J

J kcal 0.000 Thai chili, minced 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96

W BTU/h 0.001 winter greens, dry 0.24 1.2 3.5 28 56

BTU/h W 1,055.04 Herbs, Dry

W hp 0.001 oregano 0.17 0.8 2.5 20 40

hp W 745.7 rosemary 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48

g/cm^ oz/in^ 0.578 savory 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48
oz/in^ g/cm^ 1.73 Salts
N lb force 0.225 salt, Bali pyramid 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
lb force N 4.482 salt, black 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
mbar torr 0.75 1.14 6.2
salt, fine sea 18.5 135 270
torr mbar 1.333
salt, kosher 1.06 5.8 17.6 125 250
mbar psi 0.015
salt, Maldon 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
psi mbar 68.95
salt, sea 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
bar psi 14.5
salt, sumac 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
psi bar 0.069
Spices, Dry
Pa mbar 0.01
ajowan seed, powder 0.56 2.8 8.3 66 132
mbar Pa 100
ajowan seed, whole 0.56 2.8 8.3 67 133
bar atm 0.987
angelica seed, whole 0.09 0.5 1.4 11 22
atm bar 1.013
barley malt vinegar, powder 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136

caraway seed 0.52 2.6 7.8 62 124

cardamom seed, green 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136

cassia, chunks 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152

Converting Volume
Measures celery seed 0.47 3.0 7.0 56 112

Metric u.s. Imperial chaat masala 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152

(ml) (pint) (fl oz) chicory 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104

5 1 tsp % cinnamon, powder 0.46 2.3 6.8 55 109

15 1 Tbsp ’72 clove, powder 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112

30 2 Tbsp 1 clove, whole 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104

60 '/4 cup '/b 2 cocoa nib 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128

90 Vs cup y3 3 cocoa powder 0.57 2.8 8.4 68 135

120 '/2 cup Vs 4 coconut cream, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88

150 2/3 cup '/4 5 coriander seed 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80

180 % cup V3 6 cumin, black 0.46 2.3 6.8 55 109

240 1 cup ys 8 cumin, powder 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
300 V/4 1/2 10 cumin, whole 0.23 1.1 3.4 27 54
cups
fennel seed, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
480 2 cups y3 16
fennel seed, whole 0.79 3.9 11.7 94 187
600 21/2 1 20
cups fenugreek seed 0.95 4.7 14.0 112 224

1,000 1 quart 2 32 four-spice, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96

REFERENCE TABLES 357

Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients Water Content of Typical Foods
1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp Va cup 1 cup Water
content
garum masala, powder 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
Food (%)
ginger, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
Animal Foods
grains of paradise, whole 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
beef, eye of round, raw 73
licorice, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
beef, ground, 73% lean, raw 56
mace, powder 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80
beef, ground, 85% lean, raw 64
mace, whole 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
beef, whole brisket, raw 71
mustard seed, black, whole 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
butter or margarine 20
mustard seed, yellow, whole 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
cheese, American 37
nigella seed, whole 0.78 3.8 11.5 92 184
chicken fryer, whole, raw 66
nutmeg, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
chicken, dark meat, with skin, 66
pomegranate seed, whole 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
raw
poppy seed, black 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136
69
chicken, white meat, with skin,
poppy seed, black or white 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128 raw

porcini mushroom, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120 eggs, raw, whole 74

saffron, threads 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48 ham, cooked 54

scallop, freeze-dried, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88 milk, cow 87

sesame seed, black 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128 pork, chops, broiled 45

sesame seed, roasted 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128 turkey, roasted 62

star anise, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104 veal, broiled 60

tamarind, powder 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112 Fruits

tomato, freeze-dried, powder 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144 apple, raw 84

turmeric, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120 apricot, raw 86

Dairy banana, raw 75

butter 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225 blackberry, raw 86

cream cheese 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210 blueberry, raw 85

creme fraiche 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225 cantaloupe, raw 90

Gruyere, grated 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90 cherry, raw 80

mascarpone 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225 cranberry, raw 87

Parmesan, grated 0.30 1.5 4.4 35 70 fruit cocktail, canned 80

ri cotta 1.04 5.1 15.4 124 247 grape, raw 82

grapefruit, raw 90
Eggs
chicken egg, blended 0.98 5.8 17.5 116 232 mango, raw 82

chicken egg, large, white 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215 melon, honeydew, raw 90

chicken egg, large, yolk 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 orange, raw 87

Fish papaya, raw 89

fish, ground 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230 peach, raw 88

roe, steelhead trout 1.50 7.5 22.3 178 357 pear, raw 84

shrimp, ground 0.96 4.7 14.1 113 226 pineapple, raw 85

358 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Water Content of Typical Foods Water Content of Typical Foods
Water Water
content content
Food (%) Food (%)
plum, raw 85 eggplant, raw 92
raspberry, raw 81 greens, beet, raw 92
strawberry, raw 92 greens, collard, raw 91
watermelon, raw 93 greens, dandelion, raw 86
Grains, Legumes, Nuts, and Seeds greens, turnip 91
almonds, raw 7 kale, raw 87

bread, whole wheat 35 lettuce, iceberg, raw 96

coconut, dried 7 lettuce, loose leaf, raw 94

grains/legumes/seeds, dry <10 lettuce, romaine, raw 95

lentils, cooked 67 mushroom, raw 92

macaroni or spaghetti, cooked 70 okra, boiled or raw 90

pecans, raw 7 olives 80

rice, bleached 68 onions, raw 89

walnuts, raw 4 parsnip, raw 80

Herbs peas, green, raw 80

cilantro, raw 92 peppers, bell 92

parsley, raw 86 pickle, cucumber 93

Sweeteners potato, raw 85

honey 15 pumpkin, canned 90

jam/preserves 30 pumpkin, raw 92

molasses 25 radish, raw 95

Vegetables rutabaga, boiled 90

asparagus, raw 92 sauerkraut, canned 93

bean sprout, raw 92 spinach, raw 92

bean, green, raw 90 squash, acorn, raw 88

beet, raw 87 squash, boiled 96

bok choy, raw 95 squash, butternut 94

broccoli, raw 91 squash, kabocha, raw 94

Brussels sprout, raw 86 squash, spaghetti 94

cabbage, raw 92 squash, yellow 94

carrot, raw 88 sweet potato, boiled in skin 71

cassava, raw 60 sweet potato, raw 73

cauliflower, raw 92 Swiss chard 94

celery, raw 95 tomato, raw 93

corn, sweet, fresh, raw 74 watercress, raw 90

cucumber, raw 96 zucchini 95

REFERENCE TABLES 359

Converting Grams to Volume for Ingredients
1 1 y-1
1 ml 1 cup
tsp Tbsp cup

Fish

fish, ground 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230

roe, steelhead trout 1.50 7.5 22.3 178 357

shrimp, ground 0.96 4.7 14.1 113 226

tobiko 0.80 3.9 11.8 94 189

Meat, Ground

beef 1.27 6.3 18.8 150 300

chicken, breast 1.06 5.2 15.6 125 250

chicken, thigh 1.06 5.2 15.6 125 250

pork 1.27 6.3 18.8 150 300

Vegetables and Fruits

apple, thinly sliced 0.49 2.4 7.2 58 115

avocado, puree 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215

butternut squash, brunoise 0.05 0.2 0.7 6 11

butternut squash, thinly sliced 0.66 3.2 9.7 78 155

cabbage, red, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100

cabbage, white, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
cantaloupe, thinly sliced 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215

carrot, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100

cauliflower, thinly sliced 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
celery, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
corn, kernels 0.76 3.8 11.3 90 180

fennel, thinly sliced 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90

honeydew melon, thinly sliced 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215

leek, thinly sliced 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90

mushroom, button, thinly sliced 0.36 1.8 5.3 43 85

onion, thinly sliced 0.44 2.2 6.6 53 105

pea, green, shelled 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160

pear, thinly sliced 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170

pineapple, brunoise 0.08 0.4 1.2 9 18

pineapple, thinly sliced 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195

scallion, thinly sliced (green part) 0.30 1.5 4.4 35 70

scallion, thinly sliced (white part) 0.41 2.0 6.1 49 98

shiitake mushroom, thinly sliced 0.27 1.4 4.1 33 65

tomatoes concasse 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215

360 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Fat Content ofTy 3ical Foods Fat Content of Typical Foods Fat Content of Typical Foods
Fat Fat Fat
Typical Food Typical Food Typical Food
Content Content Content
(%) (%) (%)
Eggs, Dairy, and Oils liver, chicken 4 pistachios 55
butter 87 liver, veal 7 sesame seeds 48
cheese, aged, firm 25-31 pork, backfat 80 sunflower seeds 50
cheese, aged, soft 23-35 pork, fatty 30 walnuts 61
cheese, Camembert 23 pork, lean 1.5-2 Other Plant Foods
cheese, cheddar 31 red meat, lean 4 avocado 14
cheese, cottage 4 red meat, marbled 10 bread, whole wheat 4.2
cheese, cream 20 red poultry 1-1.5 chickpeas, cooked 2
cheese, fresh 2-18 (duck, goose, pigeon),
corn 2.7-8
breast meat, skinless
cheese, mozzarella 19 fruit <1
red poultry, leg meat 12
cheese, Parmesan 24-26 grains 0.15
sweetbreads 15-18
cheese, ricotta 13 lentils, boiled 0.5
tongue 15
cream, double >38 vegetables <1
veal, lean 3
cream, half-and-half 11-17
white poultry 6.5
cream, heavy 38 (chicken, turkey),
cream, light whipping 32-36 dark meat

cream, sour 12 white poultry, 1-1.5

white meat
creme frafche 28
Fish and Shellfish
egg white 0.2
cod 1
egg yolk 26
mackerel 5
milk, cow 3.5
rockfish 3
milk, goat 4.5
salmon 5-10
milk, grey seal 53
sardine 5
milk, low fat 2
shellfish 1
milk, reindeer 17
tuna, belly 12-15
milk, sheep 7
tuna, lean 1
milk, skim 0
whitefish 1-3
milk, water buffalo 9.5
Nuts and Seeds
milk, whole 3.5-4
almonds 55
oil, refined 99
cashews 44
oil, unrefined 96-99
coconut 57
Meats, Raw
hazelnuts 64
bacon 50-70
kukui nuts 64
bacon, Canadian 1-4
(candlenuts)
bone marrow 75 74
macadamia nuts
brain 8 olives 3
foie gras 45-52 44
peanuts
heart 3 70
pecans
kidneys 20

REFERENCE TABLES 361

 Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods
Weight or
Typical food Equivalent (approximate)
amount

asparagus spears, fresh 1 lb 16 to 20 spears

bananas, fresh 1 lb 3-4 fruits; 2 cups sliced; or 11/2 cups

mashed

beans, green, fresh 1 lb 3 cups

beans, kidney, dried 1 lb 2/2 cups

beans, navy, dried 1 lb 21/3 cups; 51/3 cups, cooked

beans, soy, dried 1 lb 2 cups

bread crumbs, dry 4 oz 14 cup

bread crumbs, fresh 4 oz 2 cups

broccoli, fresh 1 lb 2 cups, chopped

carrots/root vegetables, pureed 1 lb 11/3 cups

carrots/root vegetables, sliced 1 lb 3 cups

cheese 31/2 oz 1 cup

coffee, ground 1 lb 80 Tbsp

corn, fresh 2 medium ears 1 cup of kernels

eggs, whole, extra large 1 dozen 3 cups

eggs, whole, large 1 dozen 21/3 cups

eggs, whole, medium 1 dozen 2 cups

eggs, whole, small 1 dozen 114 cups

egg whites, extra large 1 dozen 114 cups

egg whites, large 1 dozen 11/2 cups

egg whites, medium 1 dozen 11/3 cups

egg whites, small 1 dozen 114 cups

egg yolks, extra large 1 dozen 1 cup

egg yolks, large 1 dozen %cup

egg yolks, medium 1 dozen 14 cup

egg yolks, small ^ dozen 1/3 cup

fats, solid (butter, shortening, etc.) 14 lb; 4 oz V2 cup; 8 Tbsp; 1 stick

flours 1 lb 31/2 cups, sifted

fruit, dried, pitted, plumped 1 lb 22/3 cups

fruit, dried, pitted, cooked, pureed 1 lb 21/3 cups

fruit, fresh, cooked and chopped 1 lb 214 cups

fruit, fresh, pureed 1 lb 114 cups

fruit, fresh, raw and sliced 1 lb 3 cups

gelatin, unflavored 1 OZ 14 cup; 4 Tbsp, granulated

greens, leafy 1 lb 114 cups

herbs, fresh, chopped 1/2 oz 1 Tbsp

honey 1 lb 114 cups

362 VOLUME 6 ■ KITCHEN MANUAL

Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts ofTypical Foods
Weight or
Typical food Equivalent (approximate)
amount

maple syrup 16 fl oz 2 cups

meat, cooked and finely chopped 8 oz 1 cup

nuts, chopped 4 oz cup

nuts, ground 4 oz 1 cup, loosely packed

oil, vegetable 1 qt 4 cups

onions, white, fresh 1 lb 4 medium; 2-3 cups, chopped

peas, green, fresh, in pod 1 lb 1 cup, shelled

pecans 1 lb 4 cups, halved; 3^ cups, chopped

pistachios 1 lb 3%-4 cups

potatoes, raw, sliced or chopped 1 lb 3 cups

rice, raw 71/2 oz 1 cup

spinach, fresh, cooked V/4 lb, raw 1 cup, cooked, squeezed dry, chopped

sugar, brown 1 lb iy2 cups

sugar, confectioner's 1 lb 4 cups

sugar, granulated 7 oz 1 cup

tomatoes, fresb %-l lb, whole 1 cup, peeled and seeded

vegetables (e.g., carrots, celery), 8 oz 1 cup

raw, chopped fine

All conversions are approximate. Weights have been rounded to the nearest useful measure. Weights and
measures of specific ingredients may vary with altitude, humidity, variations in preparation methods, and
other factors.

REFERENCE TABLES 363