Download and Read online, DOWNLOAD EBOOK, [PDF EBOOK EPUB ], Ebooks

download, Read Ebook EPUB/KINDE, Download Book Format PDF

Cook s Illustrated 145 2017 march april 1st

Edition Cook'S Illustrated

OR CLICK LINK
https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-145-2017-march-april-1st-edition-
cooks-illustrated/

Read with Our Free App Audiobook Free Format PFD EBook, Ebooks dowload PDF
with Andible trial, Real book, online, KINDLE , Download[PDF] and Read and Read
Read book Format PDF Ebook, Dowload online, Read book Format PDF Ebook,
[PDF] and Real ONLINE Dowload [PDF] and Real ONLINE
More products digital (pdf, epub, mobi) instant
download maybe you interests ...

Cook s Illustrated 139 2016 march april 1st Edition

Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-139-2016-march-april-1st-edition-cooks-illustrated/

Cook s Illustrated 157 2019 march abril 1st Edition

Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-157-2019-march-abril-1st-edition-cooks-illustrated/

Cook s Illustrated 144 2017 january february 1st

Edition Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-144-2017-january-february-1st-edition-cooks-
illustrated/

Cook s Illustrated 146 2017 may june 1st Edition Cook'S

Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-illustrated-146-2017-may-
june-1st-edition-cooks-illustrated/
Cook s Illustrated 147 2017 july august 1st Edition
Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-147-2017-july-august-1st-edition-cooks-illustrated/

Cook s Illustrated 148 2017 september october 1st

Edition Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-148-2017-september-october-1st-edition-cooks-
illustrated/

Cook s Illustrated 149 2017 november december 1st

Edition Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-149-2017-november-december-1st-edition-cooks-
illustrated/

Cook s Illustrated 156 2019 january february 1st

Edition Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-156-2019-january-february-1st-edition-cooks-
illustrated/

Cook s Illustrated 159 2019 july august 1st Edition

Cook'S Illustrated

https://textbookfull.com/product/cook-s-
illustrated-159-2019-july-august-1st-edition-cooks-illustrated/
NUMBER 145 MARCH & APRIL 2017

Easy Broiled Chicken

Crisp Skin, Moist Meat

20-Minute
Mac and Cheese
Crispy Hash Browns
Secret Weapon? A Cake Pan

Perfect Poached Eggs

Get Rid of Feathery Whites

All About Salmon

Guide to Buying and Cooking

Pub-Style Steak Pie

Hearty English Classic

Premium Extra-
Virgin Olive Oil
Is It Worth the Money?

˚
Finding the Best Spatula
Tuscan Shrimp and Beans
Rich Chocolate Sheet Cake
CooksIllustrated.com
$6.95 U.S.
 MARCH & APRIL 2017

2 Quick Tips 20 How to Cook

Quick and easy ways to perform everyday tasks,
from storing flour and sugar to pouring oil
Baby Bok Choy
This vegetable’s clean, mild flavor is an asset. We
without making a mess. don’t muddy it with browning. BY SANDRA WU
COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO e’

4 Fastest Weeknight Chicken 21 Tuscan Shrimp and Beans

Shrimp and bright flavors transform cannellini
Two keys to getting a whole chicken on the table
beans from winter to all-weather fare.
quickly? Start it in a cold oven and then crank up
BY STEVE DUNN
the broiler. BY LAN LAM

6 British Steak and Ale Pie 22 Chocolate Sheet Cake

Our cake boasts a deeply chocolaty crumb, plush
There’s a place for marrying meat and vegetables
frosting, and a fuss-free method. Plus, it taught us
under a pastry crust. This intensely savory pub
something new about cocoa powder.
favorite featuring tender beef napped in rich,
BY ANNIE PETITO
glossy gravy is not that place. BY ANDREA GEARY

8 Easiest-Ever Macaroni 24 Premium Extra-Virgin

and Cheese Olive Oil
High-end extra-virgin olive oils offer a world of
We set out to make a smooth, creamy, cheesy
PAGE 22 flavor beyond grocery-store options. But if you
sauce without the bother of a béchamel or
want to trade up, where do you begin?
custard. Making the whole dish in just 20 minutes
BY LISA McMANUS
was a bonus. BY ANDREA GEARY
14 Classic Deli Rye at Home
10 Perfect Poached Eggs Rye flour contributes little structure to bread and
soaks up water like a sponge. So how do you
26 The Best Silicone Spatula
The most vexing problem with poached eggs is A spatula should feel like an extension of your
make a tender loaf strong enough to hold up arm, nimbly stirring, scraping, and folding any food
keeping the whites neat and tidy. Gimmicky under a pile of sandwich fixings?
methods abound, but a few simple tricks and tools you put in its path. Why is a good one so hard to
BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN
are all you need. BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN find? BY KATE SHANNON

12 Greek Chicken 16 Buying and Cooking 28 Ingredient Notes

and Rice Soup Salmon BY KEITH DRESSER, ANDREA GEARY, ANDREW
High in fat and flavor, with lush meat and skin that JANJIGIAN & LAN LAM
Egg and lemon give avgolemono a velvety
crisps, salmon is one of America’s most-consumed
consistency and a bright taste. We perfected
these qualities while ensuring that every shred of
fin fish. Here’s our guide to cooking it right.
BY ELIZABETH BOMZE
30 Kitchen Notes
chicken was tender and juicy. BY STEVE DUNN, ANDREA GEARY, LAN LAM &
BY LAN LAM ANNIE PETITO
18 Better Hash Browns
How do you make a crispy, creamy shredded
potato cake that isn’t greasy and is a cinch to flip?
32 Equipment Corner
BY MIYE BROMBERG, HANNAH CROWLEY &
It starts with a cake pan. BY ANDREA GEARY AMY GRAVES

BACK COVER ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN BURGOYNE

Sprouts and Microgreens

Tiny plants that are eaten as vegetables, sprouts and microgreens
can pack strong flavor and, in some cases, add substantial crunch America’s Test Kitchen, a 2,500-square-foot
to salads. Purple ombré RADISH SPROUTS deliver wasabi-like kitchen located just outside Boston, is the home
bite. Likewise, don’t be misled by the wee, delicate leaves of of more than 60 test cooks, editors, and cook-
ware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes
MICRO ARUGULA; they are at least as sharp and peppery as the
until we understand exactly how and why they
mature plant. Curly BROCCOLI SPROUTS, which tangle into a work and eventually arrive at the very best
delicate heap, taste familiarly cruciferous but more bitter. ALFALFA version. We also test kitchen equipment and
SPROUTS taste nutty, fresh, and sweet—and vaguely like a raw supermarket ingredients in search of products
potato. Not surprisingly, PEA SHOOTS remind us of sugar snap that offer the best value and performance. You
peas: fresh, sweet, and a bit fibrous. Teeny MICRO CLOVER isn’t can watch us work by tuning in to America’s
just for livestock; its mineral-y flavor tastes like oysters without Test Kitchen (AmericasTestKitchen.com) and
Cook’s Country from America’s Test Kitchen
the brine. Cloudy-white MUNG BEAN SPROUTS are valued for
(CooksCountry.com) on public television and
their faint bitterness and refreshing crunch, particularly across listen to our weekly segments on The Splendid
Asian cuisines. Succulent-like SUNFLOWER GREENS boast thick, Table on public radio. You can also follow us on
juicy leaves that taste like nuts and artichokes. Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Instagram.
 Squeeze Bottle for Spritz Cookie–Spaetzle
Dish Soap
Gordon Delbrook of Bradenton,
Fla., found that a clear plastic
QUI CK Press
Mark Brighton of Buffalo, N.Y.,
found that his cookie press can
squeeze bottle makes an effec-
tive dispenser for liquid dish soap.
What’s more, it’s better-looking
TI P S also produce spaetzle when he uses
the disk with the smallest holes.

than the original container.

j COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO k

Storing Dry Goods

Paper bags of flour and
sugar are prone to tears and
holes, so Ward Wood of
Bardstown, Ky., transfers his
dry goods from their original
packaging into gallon-size
zipper-lock bags, which he
then labels. The plastic is
sturdier than paper and more
compact than a hard stor-
age container. Plus, the bag’s
large opening makes it easy
to measure without making
a mess.

Portion Savvy
To divide a package of dried peas, beans, or short noodles in half without measuring or pulling out
a storage container, Nancy Zinn of Clarksville, Md., lays the package flat to distribute the contents
evenly. Then she pinches and twists the package in the middle and secures it with a rubber band.
When she’s ready to cook, she snips one corner of the bag with scissors and pours the contents into
a bowl. The other half is already sealed and ready to store.

Nonstick Shredded Cheese Covering Open

Colleen Kline of Temecula, Calif., likes Cans
to shred cheeses such as cheddar and When Paul J. Coulston
Monterey Jack ahead of time and store of Berrien Springs, Mich.,
them in zipper-lock bags, but she finds needs to use only a par-
that the shreds clump. To keep the tial can of an ingredient,
shreds separate, she tosses them with a such as diced tomatoes
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

pinch of cornstarch (flour works, too), or chicken broth, he cre-

which coats the shreds and helps keep ates a makeshift lid by
them from clumping. covering the opening with
plastic wrap and fastening
it with an elastic band.

SEND US YOUR TIPS We will provide a complimentary one-year subscription for each tip we print. Send your tip, name, address, and daytime telephone number to Quick Tips, Cook’s Illustrated,
P.O. Box 470589, Brookline, MA 02447 or to [email protected].

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

2
 Don’t Toss Old Towels
Linda Brandwin of Woodbridge, Va., lines stacked serving platters with old
kitchen towels to protect them from scratching or chipping.

A Cheese Plane Turned Peeler

When she misplaced her vegetable peeler, Paige DeCino of Carlsbad, Calif.,
used her cheese plane to peel eggplant and cucumbers. Its larger cutting surface
worked well, cleanly peeling away long strips.

Sponge “Dryer” Pouring Oil Without Spills

Georgette Naccarato of Kingston, Idaho, never When Robert Wolfe of Lakeville, Ind., buys cooking oil in a gallon-
had a use for her hair dryer’s diffuser attach- size plastic container, he doesn’t remove the foil/plastic safety
ment until she discovered it was the perfect way liner underneath the lid. Instead, he uses a skewer or paring knife
to hold kitchen sponges. It keeps them tidy and to poke a small hole in the liner so that he can pour out smaller
allows them to dry quickly. amounts of oil without worrying that too much will gush out.

Cleaning and Drying Leeks

Elizabeth Reiss of Charlotte, N.C., uses her salad spinner
to clean and dry leeks, which are notoriously gritty. She
soaks the cut pieces in the spinner basket so that the grit
settles to the bottom, rinses out the dirty water, and spins
the leeks dry.

Bagging Wet Lettuce

Grocery stores mist leafy greens
with water to keep them hydrated,
but damp heads of lettuce are
tricky to get into plastic produce
bags. Barbara Morrissette of Sift Your Cereal
Buckhannon, W. Va., puts her hand When he gets close to the bottom of a box of cereal,
inside the bag, grabs the root end David Salafia of Meriden, Conn., uses a small fine-mesh
of the lettuce with her “glove,” and strainer to sift out the powdery crumbs, which would
pulls the bag over the wet lettuce. otherwise turn pasty in his bowl.

MARCH & APRIL 2017

3
 Fastest Weeknight Chicken
Two keys to getting a whole chicken on the table quickly?
Start it in a cold oven and then crank up the broiler.
j BY LAN LAM k

A
juicy, crisp-skinned roast browning became—but too far and the
chicken is always welcome chicken cooked through before I got
in my house, but achieving enough browning on the skin. Twelve to
it on a weeknight can seem 13 inches from the broiler was the sweet
like wishful thinking. A few years back, spot. I preheated the broiler, placed my
we made this goal more manageable butterflied chicken on a baking sheet, and
with our Weeknight Roast Chicken slid the sheet into the oven, rotating it once
(September/October 2011), which cut halfway through the cooking time.
a good 40 minutes off the usual 2½- The results were promising but not
hour preparation time. That recipe elimi- perfect. I’d shaved off about 30 minutes
nates brining (and salting, which must (it took me 1 hour and 20 minutes start
be done overnight) and calls for starting to finish), and after the prep, it was totally
the bird in a preheated skillet in a very hands-off except for the quick rotation.
hot oven and then turning off the heat But though I’d stopped cooking at our
midway through cooking. The hot skil- usual target doneness temperature of 160
let jump-starts the cooking of the thighs, degrees, the breast was dry and overcooked,
while finishing the bird in a cooling oven while the leg quarters were undercooked.
ensures that the breast stays moist and Plus, there were problems with the skin.
tender. Though a roast chicken that Despite the fact that I’d flattened the bird
clocks in at 1 hour and 50 minutes from and rotated it during cooking, the skin had
start to finish is impressive, I wondered if blistered and blackened in spots, particu-
I could speed things up even more. larly on the legs, which had contracted due
to the intense heat and drawn up away from
Racking up Solutions the skillet, closer to the heat source. The
Out of the gate I knew that, as in our previ- fat also hadn’t rendered away completely,
ous recipe, I would skip salting and brining leaving the skin rubbery in places. I wanted
to save as much time as possible. Next, to fix these problems, and I wanted to shave
I made a big decision: I wouldn’t roast The chicken leaves flavorful drippings in the pan that make a great sauce; off even more time.
my chicken. Instead, I would broil it. An we simply add fresh thyme and garlic.
oven takes 20 minutes to preheat, while a The Heat Is On (and Off)
broiler requires just 5 minutes. Beyond that, roasting from burning. After applying a thin coat of oil, I To help the fat deposits under the skin render better,
relies on the air in the oven to transfer heat to the generously seasoned both sides with salt and pepper. I used a paring knife to pierce the skin in multiple
chicken, and air is a poor conductor. A broiler heats But before I could start broiling, I needed to
the chicken directly via waves of radiant heat, which settle on a rack position. While one might reflexively
transfer heat much more efficiently. use the top rack for broiling, it’s not always the best Prevent Blackened Skin

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN

Flattening the bird by butterflying it was the essen- option. Think of the broiler element in an electric In our early tests, the chicken’s skin bubbled up
tial first step. If I didn’t do this, the skin on the breast, oven as a collection of hot lights affixed to the top of from the meat, which put it closer to the broiler
which would be situated close to the heat, would the oven. The farther the food is from the “lights,” and caused it to burn. Our solution? Pierce the
burn before the thighs, located farther away, would the more diffuse and uniform the illuminated area, skin at ¾-inch intervals all over the bird, which
cook through. With a good pair of kitchen shears, while placing food closer to the element will create provides enough vents for steam to escape.
the task took just a few minutes. I snipped down concentrated spots of “light” (for more informa-
either side of the backbone and removed it. I then tion, see “For Perfect Broiled Chicken, Keep It out Trapped steam
flipped the chicken over, breast side up, and pressed of the Spotlight”). To cook the chicken evenly and causes skin to blister
firmly on the breastbone to flatten the bird. Finally, efficiently, I needed to set the oven rack far enough and burn
I tucked the wings beneath the breasts to keep them from the element to minimize the number of hot
spots but not so far away that the chicken cooked
too slowly.
See How It’s Done I broiled a few birds, placing the rack about
A step-by-step video is available 6 inches from the element and moving it progres-
at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17 sively farther away. As I expected, the farther away
I placed the rack, the more even the cooking and

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

4
spots, which would allow the fat to escape. As for ONE-HOUR BROILED CHICKEN CORE TECHNIQUE
getting the dark and white meat to reach the right AND PAN SAUCE
REMOVING THE BACKBONE
doneness temperatures at the same time, I needed to SERVES 4
slow down the rate at which the white meat cooked Butterflying the chicken allows for even cooking
while speeding up the dark meat. My solution was If your broiler has multiple settings, choose the under the broiler’s direct heat and also speeds up
two-pronged. First, I swapped out the baking sheet highest one. This recipe requires a broiler-safe skillet. the process. To remove the backbone, place the
for a skillet and preheated the skillet on the stovetop In step 3, if the skin is dark golden brown but the chicken breast side down and use kitchen shears
before adding the chicken. Second, I didn’t preheat breast has not yet reached 155 degrees, cover the to cut along each side. A good pair of shears is
the broiler but rather put the chicken in a cold oven chicken with aluminum foil and continue to broil. key (our favorite pair is the Kershaw Taskmaster
and then turned on the broiler. This allowed the legs Monitor the temperature of the chicken carefully Shears/Shun Multipurpose Shears, $49.95). For
to begin cooking as soon as the chicken went into during the final 10 minutes of cooking, because it instructions on carving the bird once it is cooked,
the hot pan, while the breast side, held slightly away can quickly overcook. Do not attempt this recipe see page 30.
from the pan by the ribs, would cook from above at a with a drawer broiler.
slower rate. To further ensure that the legs wouldn’t
scorch, I tied them together with kitchen twine to 1 (4-pound) whole chicken, giblets discarded
keep them from drawing up toward the heat source. 1½ teaspoons vegetable oil
As yet another safeguard against overcooking, Kosher salt and pepper
I decided to remove the chicken from the oven a 4 sprigs fresh thyme
little sooner. A chicken roasted until the breast meat 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
reaches an internal temperature of 160 degrees car- Lemon wedges
ries over about 5 to 7 degrees, but because of the
broiler’s more intense, direct heat, the meat was car- 1. Adjust oven rack 12 to 13 inches from broiler
rying over more—an extra 10 to 15 degrees. This left element (do not preheat broiler). Place chicken
the lean breast meat dried out and chalky. Removing breast side down on cutting board. Using kitchen
the chicken from the oven when the breast reached shears, cut through bones on either side of back-
155 degrees allowed it to carry over to just the right bone. Trim off any excess fat and skin and discard of oven’s front corners.) Turn on broiler and broil
temperature and helped keep it moist. The thighs backbone. Flip chicken over and press on breastbone chicken for 25 minutes. Rotate skillet by moving
reached about 180 degrees, above our usual target of to flatten. Using tip of paring knife, poke holes handle to opposite front corner of oven and con-
175 degrees, but with their extra fat for protection, through skin over entire surface of chicken, spacing tinue to broil until skin is dark golden brown and
they could handle it. As a bonus, pulling the chicken them approximately ¾ inch apart. thickest part of breast registers 155 degrees, 20 to
out earlier shaved off a couple more minutes. 2. Rub ½ teaspoon oil over skin and sprinkle with 30 minutes longer.
1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Flip chicken 4. Transfer chicken to carving board and let rest,
Poking Holes over, sprinkle bone side with ½ teaspoon salt, and uncovered, for 15 minutes. While chicken rests, stir
Now my chicken was much more tender and juicy. season with pepper. Tie legs together with kitchen thyme sprigs and garlic into juices in pan and let
But the skin wasn’t what I had imagined—it was still twine and tuck wings under breasts. stand for 10 minutes.
too dark in spots. Upon closer inspection I saw that 3. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in broiler-safe 5. Using spoon, skim fat from surface of pan
the portions of skin that I had pierced had stayed 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. juices. Carve chicken and transfer any accumulated
flush against the meat and were perfectly browned. Place chicken in skillet, skin side up, and transfer to juices to pan. Strain sauce through fine-mesh strainer
But the remaining unpierced areas were blistered and oven, positioning skillet as close to center of oven as and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken,
blackened. Here’s why: Water exuded by the meat handle allows (turn handle so it points toward one passing pan sauce and lemon wedges separately.
was turning into steam. In areas where that steam
couldn’t escape, it inflated the skin away from the
flesh. The closer the skin was to the broiler element, For Perfect Broiled Chicken, Keep It out of the Spotlight
the more it charred. The fix was simple. When I For even cooking and browning, the butterflied chicken must be placed at the right distance from the broiler ele-
pierced the skin at ¾-inch intervals all over, sure ment. Though electric (illustrated below) and gas broilers are designed differently, both work the same way: The
enough, the chicken emerged from the broiler with radiant heat is more focused and intense near the element and becomes more diffuse the farther away it gets.
deeply and evenly browned, well-rendered skin.
After transferring the bird to a carving board, I
contemplated the drippings left in the skillet. They
were nicely seasoned and had an intense chicken
flavor. Could I turn them into a pan sauce with
minimal work? I stirred in a smashed garlic clove
and some thyme sprigs and let them infuse while
the chicken rested; then I skimmed the fat from the
surface with a spoon. The impact was impressive; I
had a simple but surprisingly full-flavored sauce to
serve alongside the chicken.
When I glanced up at the clock, I saw that I
SPOTTY COVERAGE UNIFORM COVERAGE
had cut the cooking time down to 45 minutes and When the oven rack is placed too close to the broiler When the oven rack is placed farther from the broiler
the total time to 1 hour and 5 minutes. Here was element, the heat radiating from the “spotlights” is con- element, the heat radiating from the “spotlights” is dif-
a golden-brown, juicy, tender, hands-off broiled centrated, resulting in burnt skin and uneven cooking. fused, which results in browned skin and even cooking.
chicken and sauce fit for any night of the week.

MARCH & APRIL 2017

5
 British Steak and Ale Pie
There’s a place for marrying meat and vegetables under a pastry crust. This intensely
savory pub favorite featuring tender beef napped in rich, glossy gravy is not that place.
j BY ANDREA GEARY k

S
teak pie in Britain isn’t made liquid even further if I wanted to skip the
with what Americans would reducing and thickening steps, but how
call “steak” (British cooks use could I do that without losing even more
the word “steak” broadly, so it flavor? And clearly the crust needed work.
encompasses cuts like chuck and shank),
and it often lacks a bottom crust. Some Beefing Up
might argue that it’s not a pie. But if you I decided to skip the fussy searing step and
get hung up on what steak pie isn’t, you’ll boost meaty flavor with a couple of slices of
miss out on what it is: a powerful, deli- bacon and a full pound of glutamate-rich
cious antidote to spring’s last chilly days. mushrooms. When the mushrooms had
Here’s how most versions come together: released most of their juices, I added the
Brown the meat, usually with onion and onion along with garlic and thyme. The
maybe bacon or mushrooms. Braise it in heady aroma was encouraging, considering
stock and perhaps beer for several hours, I hadn’t added the beef, but even more
and then thicken the liquid to a gravy con- encouraging was the fond that began to
sistency. Transfer the filling to a pie plate and form. I let it get really brown, and then
let it cool before topping it with pastry and I added flour, which I hoped would suffi-
baking it until the crust is crisp. ciently thicken the gravy as the meat cooked,
You’ll notice I didn’t mention vegetables. allowing me to skip both the beurre manié
An authentic steak pie doesn’t have them, and the reducing step at the end.
and as a vegetable enthusiast, I think that’s Next I deglazed the pan with ¼ cup
really smart. Why settle for a skimpy serv- of beef stock, and when the fond lifted,
ing of long-cooked carrots and peas when I added ¾ cup of beer for more complexity.
you could enjoy a bright, perfectly cooked I opted for a straightforward ale (I grabbed a
vegetable or a crisp salad alongside instead? Newcastle), which would boost flavor with-
About that optional bottom crust: out being obtrusive. Then I added the rest
There’s no denying the heft of a meat-only With mushrooms as the only vegetable in the filling, our steak pie puts of the beef stock, a mere 1½ cups this time.
pie, so I endorse skipping it. That also means savory, meaty flavor first. Before adding the beef, I decided to use
a bit of time saved, though even without the test kitchen’s trick of tossing it with a
it most of the steak pie recipes I saw seemed too spent reducing it on the back end; eventually I hoped little baking soda (diluted with water). We typically
involved. Surely I could do something about that. to eliminate that tiresome step altogether. When it all
came to a simmer, I covered the pot and transferred
A Slow Start it to a 350-degree oven. While the filling cooked, I KEYS TO A FASTER, BETTER PIE
My first timesaving move was to opt for boneless short mixed up a half batch of the pie dough I use for fruit
ribs. They offer good beefy flavor, cook relatively pies and put it in the fridge. Here’s how we streamlined the recipe without
quickly, and require little trimming. After cutting In less than 1½ hours, the beef was tender. I fished sacrificing any flavor.
3 pounds of short ribs into ¾-inch chunks, I realized it out with a slotted spoon and transferred it to a pie (MEATINESS WITHOUT BROWNING
that searing them would be problematic. Even after plate; I then reduced the cooking liquid to 2 cups. It MEAT: It’s faster to brown mushrooms, onion,
dividing the meat into three batches, there wasn’t was still too thin, so I whisked in a beurre manié, a garlic, and flour until a really dark fond develops.
enough room in the pot for proper browning; the paste of raw flour and butter, to thicken it. I poured Beer and bacon deepen the flavor even more.
meat steamed. I pressed on. I sautéed an onion and the hot gravy over the meat and rolled out the dough. (NO BEURRE MANIÉ: Adding flour early
4 ounces of mushrooms until they were tender before Most recipes recommend letting the filling cool on means no need for a flour-and-butter paste PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
returning the beef to the pot and adding 4 cups of before topping it with the dough, but since I was try- to thicken the sauce later.
broth. This was less than I’d seen in other recipes, but ing to streamline, I went for it. Not a good idea. The (NO REDUCTION: We skip a lengthy sauce
adding less liquid to begin with would mean less time buttery, moist dough melted as I fluted the edges of reduction by adding less liquid from the get-go and
the pie, and it turned to mush in the oven. allowing for evaporation partway through cooking.
It was a modest first attempt. The beef was melt- (THE RIGHT PIE DOUGH: Standard pie
Andrea Makes the Pie ingly tender, but the gravy was pale and tasted flat. dough is too delicate to put on a hot filling, which
A step-by-step video is available I identified the lack of fond and the smaller portion must be cooled. With help from an egg and sour
at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17 of beef stock as the culprits, and that second problem cream, our dough can stand up to the heat.
was especially worrisome: I’d have to decrease the

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

6
 Which Ale? PUB-STYLE STEAK AND ALE PIE to about half their original volume, about 5 minutes.
You might assume SERVES 6 Add onion, garlic, and thyme and cook, uncovered,
Guinness is the go-to stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and fond
for this recipe, but Don’t substitute bone-in short ribs; their yield is too begins to form on bottom of pot, 3 to 5 minutes.
we found that for the variable. Instead, use a 4-pound chuck-eye roast, well Sprinkle flour over mushroom mixture and stir until
broadest appeal, English trimmed of fat. Use a good-quality beef broth for all flour is moistened. Cook, stirring occasionally,
pale and brown ales this recipe; the test kitchen’s favorite is Better Than until fond is deep brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in
were best. Bitter, hoppy, Bouillon Roasted Beef Base. If you don’t have a deep- beer and remaining 1¼ cups broth, scraping up
or floral beers were dish pie plate, use an 8 by 8-inch baking dish and roll any browned bits. Stir in beef and bring to simmer,
too pronounced, while the pie dough into a 10-inch square. We prefer pale pressing as much beef as possible below surface of
American lagers were OPT FOR MIDDLE and brown ales for this recipe. liquid. Cover pot tightly with aluminum foil, then
barely noticeable. OF THE ROAD lid; transfer to oven. Cook for 1 hour.
Filling 3. Remove lid and discard foil. Stir filling, cover,
3 tablespoons water return to oven, and continue to cook until beef is
do this because baking soda changes the meat’s pH ½ teaspoon baking soda tender and liquid is thick enough to coat beef, 15 to
and makes it more tender. The meat in my previous 3 pounds boneless beef short ribs, trimmed 30 minutes longer. Transfer filling to deep-dish pie
pie was plenty tender, but the higher pH would also and cut into ¾-inch chunks plate. (Once cool, filling can be covered with plastic
boost browning, deepening the color and flavor of ½ teaspoon salt wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 days.) Increase
my gravy. ½ teaspoon pepper oven temperature to 400 degrees.
Worried that some of the limited moisture would 2 slices bacon, chopped 4. FOR THE CRUST: While filling is cooking,
evaporate before the meat cooked, I covered the 1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and measure out 2 tablespoons beaten egg and set aside.
Dutch oven with foil before putting on the lid and halved if medium or quartered if large Whisk remaining egg and sour cream together in
moving the pot to the oven. After 1 hour, I stirred 1½ cups beef broth bowl. Process flour and salt in food processor until
the meat. It was almost tender, but the cooking 1 large onion, chopped combined, about 3 seconds. Add butter and pulse
liquid was still a little thin, so I replaced the lid but 1 garlic clove, minced until only pea-size pieces remain, about 10 pulses.
not the foil and returned the pot to the oven for ½ teaspoon dried thyme Add half of sour cream mixture and pulse until com-
30 minutes more. After a total of 1½ hours of oven ¼ cup all-purpose flour bined, about 5 pulses. Add remaining sour cream
time, the meat was beautifully tender and the gravy ¾ cup beer mixture and pulse until dough begins to form, about
was a deep, glossy brown, thick enough to coat 10 pulses. Transfer mixture to lightly floured counter
the meat generously—no reducing or thickening Crust and knead briefly until dough comes together. Form
required. And the fond, extra mushrooms, beer, 1 large egg, lightly beaten into 4-inch disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for
thyme, and garlic had done wonders for the flavor. It ¼ cup sour cream, chilled at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
was time for the crust. 1¼ cups (6¼ ounces) all-purpose flour 5. Roll dough into 11-inch round on lightly
The test kitchen’s Foolproof Pie Dough ½ teaspoon salt floured counter. Using knife or 1-inch round biscuit
(September/October 2010) is my go-to for fruit pie, 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cutter, cut round from center of dough. Drape dough
but its high moisture and fat content made it too soft ½-inch pieces and chilled over filling (it’s OK if filling is hot). Trim overhang
to place on a warm filling. For a dough that was sturdy to ½ inch beyond lip of plate. Tuck overhang under
yet flaky, I chose a dough we’ve used for chicken pot 1. FOR THE FILLING: Combine water and itself; folded edge should be flush with edge of plate.
pie that includes an egg for strength; it also substitutes baking soda in large bowl. Add beef, salt, and pepper Crimp dough evenly around edge of plate using your
sour cream for some of the fat. Less butter meant less and toss to combine. Adjust oven rack to lower- fingers or press with tines of fork to seal. Brush crust
fat that would melt with heat, so I was able to place middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. with reserved egg. Place pie on rimmed baking sheet.
this dough on the warm filling with no problems. And 2. Cook bacon in large Dutch oven over high Bake until filling is bubbling and crust is deep golden
how did it bake? Beautifully. The edge held its attrac- heat, stirring occasionally, until partially rendered brown and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes. (If filling has been
tive crispness, and the crust was flaky but substantial. but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms refrigerated, increase baking time by 15 minutes and
Now that I’ve got this recipe in my back pocket, I’m and ¼ cup broth and stir to coat. Cover and cook, cover with foil for last 15 minutes to prevent over-
looking forward to the next chilly day. stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are reduced browning.) Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.

RECIPE TESTING Four Not-So-Humble Pies

The roots of meat pies run as far back as medieval times. While eating a pie’s crust in those days was questionable (its primary purpose was serving as a baking vessel), the
crusts for four more modern versions we tried were most certainly edible. However, the quality of both crust and filling ran the gamut, and all fell short of our ideal.

SCORCHED ALL LOOKS BONE TO PICK SLOW GOING

The puff pastry topping burned This impressive-looking crust was The decorative bone was striking, Our favorite of the group, this
and turned soggy while the gravy tough to eat. Too many onions but marrow added to the crust pie was flavorful (if a bit salty)
was thin and the meat dry. made the filling sweet. turned it “overwhelmingly rich.” and took hours to prepare.

MARCH & APRIL 2017

7
 Easiest-Ever Macaroni and Cheese
We set out to make a smooth, creamy, cheesy sauce without the bother of a
béchamel or custard. Making the whole dish in just 20 minutes was a bonus.
j BY ANDREA GEARY k

I
’ve always made mac and cheese the melt and flow. Then the protein molecules
traditional way, and though the final find each other again and begin to regroup,
product is comforting and delicious, this time in clumps or strings rather than in
getting there is a bit of a slog: I first that tidy gel formation. The result is melted
cook flour in melted butter, whisk in milk, cheese with a pasty, lumpy texture and
and simmer until the sauce, known as pools of fat.
a béchamel, thickens. It’s this béchamel Most cooks prevent breaking the same
that allows me to then add flavorful aged way I did in my classic mac and cheese: by
cheeses, such as extra-sharp cheddar, adding flour in the form of a béchamel.
which are prone to breaking down and When combined with melting cheese, the
separating into a greasy, lumpy mess when starch granules in the flour release elongated
heated (more later on why some cheeses threads of amylose, which then wrap around
“break”). Sometimes I add eggs for an the proteins, preventing them from squeez-
even richer, more custardy result. Finally, ing out fat and recombining into unpleasant
I combine the cheese sauce with cooked curds. But making a béchamel adds work.
macaroni, transfer it to a buttered baking Sodium citrate works differently. It
dish, top it with bread crumbs, and bake it doesn’t simply adhere to the cheese pro-
until it’s bubbly. Creamy and cheesy? Yes. teins; it changes them. When you add it to a
Fast? Definitely not. cheese sauce, the calcium ions in the cheese
So when I heard of an ultramodern proteins are replaced with sodium ions. This
recipe for the creamiest, cheesiest maca- changes the structure of the protein in such a
roni and cheese ever, I was curious. When way that the protein itself becomes a stabiliz-
I heard that it was also the fastest ever, I ing gel, holding the fat and water together
knew I had to try it. Modernist Cuisine, so the sauce remains supersmooth.
a research group at the forefront of the In fact, the glossy flow of the sauce
molecular gastronomy movement, devised made with sodium citrate reminded me of
a four-ingredient recipe said to have an We cook the macaroni in water and milk and then stir two types of the molten American cheese on a cheese-
extraordinarily smooth texture without shredded cheese directly into the pot. burger, and it turned out that this was no
relying on a béchamel. The key? An ingre- coincidence. So-called process cheeses, like
dient called sodium citrate, which isn’t as scary as it Dubious as I’d been, this sauce was remarkably American and Velveeta, contain “emulsifying salts” to
sounds. It’s an additive that’s used as an emulsifier creamy and homogeneous. I stirred it into cooked keep them smooth when melted (see “Why We Can
or preservative in foods such as gelatin desserts, elbow macaroni, tasted it, and had to admit: It Skip the Béchamel”).
jam, ice cream, and candy. Its downside is that it’s a wasn’t just fast (coming together in just 5 min- So if I used process cheese instead of my usual
mail-order item—and therefore a nonstarter for the utes)—it really was the smoothest and cheesiest, too. cheddar, could I skip the sodium citrate? While I
quick, pantry-ready recipe I hoped to produce. But In fact, with no milk, flour, or eggs to dilute it, boiled macaroni in one saucepan, I whisked 2 cups of
I did get my hands on some just to see how it works. this sauce was actually too cheesy and salty for me; shredded American cheese into 1 cup of simmering
Following the Modernist recipe, I dissolved a tiny I’d have to tame it a bit or I wouldn’t be able to eat milk in another saucepan, where it melted smoothly
bit of sodium citrate in water, which I then brought a whole serving. And though I loved the quick prep to form a sauce. I stirred the sauce into the drained
to a simmer. Next, I used an immersion blender to time, I missed that crispy top that you get on a baked macaroni and, to simulate the crispy top of a baked
incorporate handfuls of shredded crumbly, mature mac and cheese. But these issues were easily fixable. macaroni and cheese, sprinkled some toasted, but-
cheddar cheese (though subsequent tests showed The real hurdle would be making a quick, smooth, tered bread crumbs (made from white sandwich
that simply whisking did the job just as well)—a richly flavored batch of macaroni and cheese without bread) on top. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
true test of the smoothing properties of the sodium using sodium citrate.
citrate because the more aged and dry a cheese is,
the more likely it is to break. Ugly Breakup Fast and Fuss-Free
Back to why cheese breaks when heated: Cheese is Our macaroni and cheese isn’t just quick—it
an emulsion of fat and water bound up in a protein cooks entirely on the stovetop. And instead of
Watch: It’s Amazing gel. When it’s exposed to heat, the fat liquefies. As using separate pots to boil the macaroni and to
A step-by-step video is available it gets even hotter, the protein network begins to make a cheese sauce, we do both simultaneously
at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17 break apart, the emulsion breaks down, the fat and in the same vessel.
water begin to separate out, and the cheese begins to

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

8
 SCIENCE Why We Can Skip the Béchamel SHOPPING American Cheese
Most versions of macaroni and cheese achieve a smooth consistency by starting with a béchamel, the classic Though it’s hardly
sauce made by combining a flour-and-fat paste with milk. When combined with aged cheese, which is prone an exemplar of
to breaking, the starches in the béchamel release elongated threads of amylose, which then wrap around the America’s cultured
cheese’s casein proteins, preventing them from squeezing out fat and recombining into curds. By using Ameri- dairy achievements,
can cheese, we’re able to skip the béchamel. Thanks to its emulsifying salts, American cheese stays smooth American cheese—
when melted and acts as a stabilizing agent for aged cheeses such as the extra-sharp cheddar in our recipe. the key to our
sauce’s remarkably BUY A BLOCK
velvety texture—is Only American cheese from
the deli case will do.
real cheese. It’s
what the U.S. Food and Drug Administration calls
“pasteurized process cheese,” made by combin-
ing one or more mild cheeses with dairy, water,
and emulsifying salts that keep its texture smooth
SHARP CHEDDAR ALONE = GRAINY SHARP CHEDDAR + AMERICAN = SMOOTH when melted. We buy a 4-ounce block from the
Without any stabilizing agent, the protein network American cheese contains emulsifying salts that
in cheese breaks down when heated, fat breaks out, replace calcium ions in dairy with sodium ions, deli counter, which is easy to shred for the sauce.
and proteins regroup in clumps. Aged (and thus drier) stabilizing the cheese sauce so that it doesn’t form There are two products you want to avoid,
cheese is even more prone to breaking. curds and fat stays emulsified. both of which are typically sold in packages of
individually wrapped slices. The first are products
such as Kraft Singles, which are technically consid-
Crumb topping aside, it looked exactly like maca- I was so delighted with the results that I immedi- ered American cheese since they contain 51 per-
roni and cheese made from a box mix. The sauce was ately set about making a slightly more sophisticated cent real cheese but are bland and contain added
almost unnaturally shiny, but it sure was smooth. The version that calls for Gruyère and blue cheese in place whey that made our cheese sauce too thick. The
flavor was as bland as one would expect, and the pair- of the cheddar. I’ll welcome the variety because, with second is known as “imitation cheese food.”
ing of buttered bread crumbs and American cheese a recipe this easy and fast, there’s a lot of macaroni These slices aren’t cheese at all; they’re a veg-
made it taste like a grilled cheese sandwich. and cheese in my future. etable oil–based product loaded with stabilizers
But this test showed that the emulsifying salts in and thickeners and are more chemically related
process cheese were more than sufficient to prevent SIMPLE STOVETOP MACARONI AND CHEESE to plastic than to cheese. In our cheese sauce,
my quick cheese sauce from breaking. The trick would SERVES 4 they weren’t just bland; they didn’t even melt and
be to use a more flavorful cheese and supplement with instead formed large orange clumps.
enough process cheese to keep the sauce smooth. Barilla makes our favorite elbow macaroni. Because
the macaroni is cooked in a measured amount of SAY NO TO
One-Pot Wonder liquid, we don’t recommend using different shapes or SINGLES
I went back to the extra-sharp cheddar I’d started with sizes of pasta. Use a 4-ounce block of American cheese The added whey
in cheese products
and tested it with various ratios of American cheese. from the deli counter rather than presliced cheese. such as Kraft Singles
A 1:1 ratio of cheddar to American was sufficient to made the sauce
maintain the smooth texture of the sauce, but it still 1½ cups water too thick.
tasted a touch bland, so I doctored it with a bit of 1 cup milk
Dijon mustard and a dash of cayenne pepper. I mixed 8 ounces elbow macaroni
the sauce with the cooked and drained macaroni, 4 ounces American cheese, shredded (1 cup)
transferred it to a serving dish, and sprinkled the top ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
with a new version of the crumb topping. Small pinch cayenne pepper
To minimize the grilled cheese sandwich asso- 4 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese,
ciations, I substituted panko bread crumbs for the shredded (1 cup)
PASS ON THE IMITATION CHEESE
sandwich bread, and instead of toasting the crumbs ⅓ cup panko bread crumbs Products that list oil and starch among
in butter, I used olive oil. A bit of grated Parmesan 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil their primary ingredients don’t even melt.
sprinkled onto the still-warm crumbs reinforced Salt and pepper
the cheesy flavor of the dish and added some extra 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
crunch. evenly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Off heat, sprinkle
The dish was everything I wanted: creamy, cheesy, 1. Bring water and milk to boil in medium sauce- Parmesan over panko mixture and stir to combine.
and fast. But it occurred to me that I could make pan over high heat. Stir in macaroni and reduce Transfer panko mixture to small bowl.
it even faster. The next time around, I cooked the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring frequently, 3. Stir macaroni until sauce is smooth (sauce may
macaroni in a mere 1½ cups of water and the 1 cup until macaroni is soft (slightly past al dente), 6 to look loose but will thicken as it cools). Season with salt
of milk I was already using in the sauce. After about 8 minutes. Add American cheese, mustard, and and pepper to taste. Transfer to warm serving dish and
7 minutes, the macaroni was fully cooked, but instead cayenne and cook, stirring constantly, until cheese sprinkle panko mixture over top. Serve immediately.
of draining it, I simply stirred in the American cheese, is completely melted, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir
mustard, and cayenne. Then I removed the saucepan in cheddar until evenly distributed but not melted. GROWN-UP STOVETOP
from the heat and stirred in the cheddar until it was Cover saucepan and let stand for 5 minutes. MACARONI AND CHEESE
just distributed throughout. I let it sit, covered, so the 2. Meanwhile, combine panko, oil, ⅛ tea-
cheese could melt gently in the residual heat while spoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in 8-inch Increase water to 1¾ cups. Substitute ¾ cup shred-
I made the topping. A final stir and a sprinkling of nonstick skillet until panko is evenly moistened. ded Gruyère cheese and 2 tablespoons crumbled
crumbs and I was done. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until blue cheese for cheddar.

MARCH & APRIL 2017

9
 Perfect Poached Eggs
The most vexing problem with poached eggs is keeping the whites neat and tidy.
Gimmicky methods abound, but a few simple tricks and tools are all you need.
j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

Y
ou could argue that poach- reach the right degree of tender firm-
ing eggs is an ambitious goal ness. This approach calls for adding a few
from the start. Drop a delicate splashes of vinegar to the simmering water
raw egg, without its protec- before slipping in the eggs. Acid lowers
tive shell, into a pot of simmering water the water’s pH, which makes the proteins
in the hope that it will emerge perfectly in the white set faster. The only issue? For
cooked. That means a tender, fully set the vinegar to be effective, you have to add
white—no ring of gelatinous, translucent so much that it gives the eggs a sour taste. I
goo surrounding the yolk—and a yolk found that the upper limit was ½ teaspoon
that’s fluid but thickened, almost saucy. per cup of water, which wasn’t enough to
Equally important: The white must not be much help. But there was something
be raggedy or wispy at the edges and must else I could add that also makes egg pro-
boast a plump, ovoid flying-saucer shape teins bond faster: salt. Using vinegar and
that’s ideal for nestling atop an English salt together meant I didn’t need much of
muffin or a bed of salad greens. either one. After a few tests, I worked out
Since a raw egg cooked in simmering my formula: 1 tablespoon vinegar and 1
water wants to spread out in all directions teaspoon salt to 6 cups water.
before it sets, it’s this latter issue that’s the
trickiest to overcome. I was determined Testing the Waters
to figure out a solution, and I would have But there was still more I could do to
plenty of help: There are dozens of recipes, keep the whites tidy—I could get the
essays, and videos claiming to produce eggs into the water as gently as possible.
perfect results. I would try them all and see Gingerly sliding them into the water from
where I landed. bowls held close to the water’s surface,
as many recipes suggest, kept the white
Down the Drain contained, but pouring multiple bowls at
First I experimented with the more novel Great poached eggs have the same fluid yolks as soft-cooked eggs, but their once—I was poaching four eggs to serve
suggestions I found. These ranged from whites are more moist and plump from direct contact with water. 2 people—was awkward. Cracking all the
poaching eggs in a muffin tin in the oven to eggs into a 2-cup liquid measuring cup
microwaving each egg individually in a small bowl of spoons like that to cook a single egg? and pouring them in one by one at different spots
shallow water to parcooking them in the shell before The most useful trick I found didn’t try to cor- in the water was easier. Plus, I could retrieve them
releasing them directly into the simmering water. I ral the white during cooking but instead started by in the order they were added, so they cooked to the
wasn’t too surprised when most of these ideas proved draining the raw eggs in a colander. At first I found same degree. It made sense at this point to switch
to be dead ends. (See “Poaching Approaches That this step counterintuitive—wouldn’t all the white just from a large saucepan to a broader Dutch oven,
Didn’t Pan Out.”) Conventional methods worked drain off through the holes? It turns out that every which made bringing the measuring cup close to
better, but they also had their limitations. The most egg contains two kinds of white, thick and thin. The the water easier.
common trick was to swirl the water around the eggs thicker portion clings more tightly to the yolk, while
to create a vortex that kept the white from spreading, the thinner portion is looser and can break away and
all the while folding any loose stragglers back on the slip through the colander holes. It is this thinner white Make-Ahead Poached Eggs
yolk. The whirlpool worked, but it meant I could that is most prone to spreading out into wispy tendrils Here’s a neat trick: Poach eggs ahead of time
only poach one or two eggs a time. Another approach in the water, so eliminating it went a long way toward and serve them later (a common practice in
involved lowering an egg into the water in a large fixing this issue. I also found that starting with the restaurants). Start by transferring up to four PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
metal spoon and keeping it there while using a second freshest eggs possible increased the chance that more cooked eggs to a bowl of cold water (for more
spoon to block the loose white from straying too far. of the white was thick, so less of it would drain away than four eggs, use ice water). Refrigerate the
The results were perfect—but who wants to juggle (see “Fresh Eggs = Thick Whites” for more informa- eggs in the water for up to three days. To reheat,
tion), leaving me with a plumper poached egg. transfer the eggs to a pot of water heated to 150
degrees on the stove (use 6 cups of water for
Perfect Poaching Demo Acid Test two to four eggs or 10 cups for six to eight eggs)
A step-by-step video is available I next tried a common method targeted at a different and cover them for 3 minutes, by which time
at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17 issue: ensuring that the yolks stay runny while the they should be at serving temperature.
whites, which solidify at a much higher temperature,

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

10
 RECIPE TESTING Poaching Approaches That Didn’t Pan Out

TEST 1 TEST 2 TEST 3 TEST 4 TEST 5

POACH IN MUFFIN TIN POACH IN MICROWAVE PARCOOK IN SHELLS CREATE VORTEX ENCLOSE IN SPOONS
Method: Poach eggs in Method: Place each egg in small Method: Briefly boil eggs in shells, Method: Swirl water vigor- Method: Lower 1 egg at a time
350-degree oven in muffin tin glass bowl with ¼ cup water. then scoop each parcooked egg ously around eggs to create into boiling water in large metal
with 1 tablespoon water added Microwave for 1 to 2 minutes. out of shell into water. whirlpool. spoon, using smaller second
to each muffin cup. spoon to keep loose white from
Results: Whites stayed con- Results: Too involved; eggs Results: Effective at keeping straying too far.
Results: Whites stayed neat, tained, but cooking time and must be cool before removing whites neat but too fussy and
but eggs cooked unevenly, set- heat level would need tinkering from shells, which was messy only works for one or two eggs Results: Effective but fussy and
ting faster in the outside cups. for every microwave. and tended to break up white. at a time. only works for one egg at a time.

After bringing the water to a boil, I added the Benedict and corned beef hash to a salad or pasta high heat. Meanwhile, crack eggs, one at a time, into
vinegar and salt, deposited the drained eggs around to fried rice to polenta. colander. Let stand until loose, watery whites drain
the water’s surface, and then considered whether away from eggs, 20 to 30 seconds. Gently transfer
to lower the heat to a bare simmer or shut it off PERFECT POACHED EGGS eggs to 2-cup liquid measuring cup.
completely and cover the pot, allowing residual heat SERVES 2 2. Add vinegar and 1 teaspoon salt to boiling
to do the cooking. I’d seen recipes calling for both water. With lip of measuring cup just above surface
methods, and after a quick test, I settled on the lat- For the best results, be sure to use the freshest of water, gently tip eggs into water, one at a time,
ter for two reasons: First, even though it was very eggs possible. Cracking the eggs into a colander leaving space between them. Cover pot, remove
gentle, the residual heat was still enough to allow will rid them of any watery, loose whites and result from heat, and let stand until whites closest to yolks
the egg whites to set, and it was extra insurance in perfectly shaped poached eggs. This recipe can are just set and opaque, about 3 minutes. If after
that the yolk would stay beautifully runny. Second, be used to cook from one to four eggs. To make 3 minutes whites are not set, let stand in water,
in the covered environment, steam could cook the two batches of eggs to serve all at once, transfer four checking every 30 seconds, until eggs reach desired
white at the very top of the eggs, which can be the cooked eggs directly to a large pot of 150-degree doneness. (For medium-cooked yolks, let eggs sit
most stubborn to set, without constantly turning water and cover them. This will keep them warm for in pot, covered, for 4 minutes, then begin checking
the egg over in the water. Though timing varied 15 minutes or so while you return the poaching water for doneness.)
slightly depending on the size of the eggs, I found to a boil and cook the next batch. We like to serve 3. Using slotted spoon, carefully lift and drain
that it took about 3 minutes for the white, includ- these eggs on buttered toast or toasted and buttered each egg over Dutch oven. Season with salt and
ing the top, to become nicely opaque. Plus, one English muffins or on salads made with assertively pepper to taste, and serve.
advantage of poaching eggs as opposed to cooking flavored greens.
them in their shells is that you can actually see the
results and return the eggs to the pot if necessary. 4 large eggs Fresh Eggs = Thick Whites
And with that, I really had it: a foolproof recipe 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar A raw egg white (albumen) has two consisten-
for perfect poached eggs. As ambitious as it had Salt and pepper cies, thick and thin. The ratio of the two consis-
seemed at first, poaching eggs now felt like a quick, tencies depends on the egg’s age: In the freshest
simple way to add protein to any meal, from eggs 1. Bring 6 cups water to boil in Dutch oven over eggs, 60 percent of the white is thick, but as
the egg ages, it drops to 50 percent and below.
In most cooked egg applications, the albumen
TOOLS FOR SUCCESS ratio won’t be noticeable because the white is
either scrambled, browned in a pan, or cooked
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN (TOP), JOHN BURGOYNE (BOTTOM)

Besides adding salt and vinegar to the poaching water, which helps the whites set at a lower temperature off
in the confines of the shell. A poached egg is the
the heat before the faster-cooking yolks get too thick, we use these tools to achieve perfect results. exception since the thin white is able to freely
flow away from the thick white and cooks up
ragged and wispy, not plump and tidy.
Our recipe gets around the issue of egg fresh-
ness by draining off the loose, watery white in a
colander before poaching. But for the plumpest
results, it’s best to use the freshest eggs you can
find. (For tips on how to tell, see “Determining
the Age of Eggs,” page 28.)

COLANDER LIQUID MEASURING CUP DUTCH OVEN WITH LID

Draining the eggs before cooking Pouring the eggs from a measuring Covering the pot allows residual
removes the loose whites, pre- cup allows us to add them to the heat to finish cooking the eggs, even
venting messy, wispy tendrils. water gently, minimizing jostling. the gooey white at the top. FRESH OLD

MARCH & APRIL 2017

11
 Greek Chicken and Rice Soup
Egg and lemon give avgolemono a velvety consistency and a bright taste. We perfected
these qualities while ensuring that every shred of chicken was tender and juicy.
j BY LAN LAM k

W
hen beaten eggs and fresh I put a lid on and shut off the heat. After
lemon juice are whisked 15 minutes, the chicken was almost—but
together with a little not quite—cooked through and the rice
hot chicken broth, the was al dente. I removed the breasts from
duo is transformed into the classic Greek the broth, shredded them, and returned
sauce known as avgolemono (egg-lemon). the pieces to the pot, where they quickly
Increase the amount of broth (homemade finished cooking. Just as I expected, the
if you’ve got it) and throw in a handful of shreds remained supermoist and tender.
rice, and avgolemono becomes a creamy,
comforting first-course soup punctuated In the Thick of It
with lemony tang. The chicken from Having achieved perfectly poached
which the broth is made, along with an chicken, I turned to avgolemono’s name-
assortment of vegetables, typically follows sake egg-lemon mixture, which thickens
as the main course. the soup. It’s the egg proteins that do the
As lovely as the classic version of avgol- work: They uncoil, entangle, and form an
emono is, it’s a more practical variation open mesh that prevents water molecules
that interests me: Simply shredding the from moving freely, thus increasing viscos-
chicken and adding it to the soup, along ity. Before being whisked into the soup, the
with increasing the amount of rice, turns egg mixture is typically tempered, meaning
this starter into a light yet satisfying meal. it is combined with a portion of the hot
I wanted a savory, citrusy soup, velvety broth to prevent the eggs from curdling
with egg and studded with tender bites when they make contact with the rest of
of chicken—all in a reasonable amount the liquid in the pot. Some Greek cooks so
of time. fear a curdled soup that they are known to
chant the “avgolemono prayer”—“please
Chicken Soup with Rice don’t curdle, please don’t curdle”—or
For the chicken, I chose boneless, skinless We puree some of the rice to give our soup its full, lush body (egg yolks make a kissing sound while adding the eggs
breasts. Their milder flavor would fit in bet- help, too). And the chicken stays moist because it’s off the heat. to magically ensure smooth results. I saw no
ter with the fresh, light nature of this soup need for such extreme measures, but I was
than thighs would. As a bonus, the breasts would 190 degrees, and when a chicken breast hits this hot curious and felt that some testing was in order. We
also cook faster than thighs. liquid, the exterior quickly overshoots the target found that tempering worked not because it raised
Before poaching and shredding, I halved the doneness temperature of 160 degrees. The result? the temperature of the eggs but rather because it
chicken breasts lengthwise. The benefits of this small Dry, chalky meat. diluted the egg proteins (see “Do You Need to
move were threefold: First, the extra surface area The test kitchen’s solution to this problem is Temper Eggs?” on page 31 for more information).
created would help salt penetrate more uniformly. to submerge the chicken in subsimmering water The tempering step safeguarded against curdling,
Second, the smaller pieces of chicken would cook and then shut off the heat. The water immediately but I had another issue to deal with. As the proteins
more quickly. Third, halving the muscle fibers drops in temperature when the chicken is added; in egg whites unwind, they unleash hydrogen sulfide,
ensured that the shreds of chicken would be short the chicken then cooks very gently with no risk of a compound that can give off a lightly sulfurous
enough to fit neatly on a spoon. (I let the salted meat overshooting the 160-degree mark. aroma. To limit this smell while getting the same
sit while I got the soup going, giving the salt time to I brought 8 cups of broth and 1 cup of rice to thickening power, I mixed 6 tablespoons of lemon
both season the chicken and change its protein struc- a boil and then let the pot simmer for just 5 min- juice with two eggs and two yolks (diluted with
ture, which would help it stay juicy when cooked.) utes. In went the prepared breasts, at which point a little broth) instead of three eggs. This mixture
My plan was to cook the chicken and rice in PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
tandem to save time, but I knew that just dropping
the chicken into simmering broth wouldn’t work. A Neat Fit—and Well Seasoned, Too
That’s because water simmers at approximately We start by cutting each chicken breast in half lengthwise and
salting it for 30 minutes. The increased surface area of the
pieces allows the salt to penetrate the meat uniformly. The
Watch Lan Make the Soup halved pieces cook more quickly; plus, they make it easier to
A step-by-step video is available shred the chicken after cooking to create bite-size pieces that fit
at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17 neatly on a spoon.

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

12
 GREEK CHICKEN AND RICE SOUP WITH
Maximizing the Lemon EGG AND LEMON (AVGOLEMONO) Go Ahead, Reheat It
Flavor in Avgolemono SERVES 4 TO 6 Most recipes for avgolemono warn against reheating
the soup lest the eggs curdle. But our avgolemono
If you have homemade chicken broth such as our won’t produce curdled threads of egg if you reheat
Classic Chicken Broth, we recommend using it in it gently. That’s because the starchy rice that’s
this recipe, as it gives the soup the best flavor and blended with the eggs physically interrupts the pro-
body. Our preferred commercial chicken broth is teins, making it much harder for them to curdle.
Swanson Chicken Stock. Use a vegetable peeler to The soup will thicken substantially during refrig-
remove strips of zest from the lemons. eration. Thin it out with a little broth and reheat it
over medium-low heat, stirring frequently. Then
1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, reseason it with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
trimmed
Salt and pepper
12 (3-inch) strips lemon zest plus 6 tablespoons
juice, plus extra juice for seasoning Hands-off Chicken Broth
A trio of ingredients brings multifaceted lemon (3 lemons) This classic approach to making chicken broth
flavor to the broth: Lemon zest provides fruiti- 2 sprigs fresh dill, plus 2 teaspoons chopped calls for gently simmering a mix of chicken backs
ness, coriander seeds add herbal/citrus notes, 2 teaspoons coriander seeds and wings in water for several hours but requires
and lemon juice offers tartness. 1 teaspoon black peppercorns almost no hands-on work. The long, slow sim-
1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed mer helps the bones and meat release both deep
8 cups chicken broth flavor and gelatin. –Keith Dresser
didn’t provide quite as much body as I’d hoped, but 1 cup long-grain rice
I didn’t want to add more eggs lest the soup become 2 large eggs plus 2 large yolks CLASSIC CHICKEN BROTH
too rich. Luckily, there was another thickener pres- MAKES 8 CUPS
ent: amylose, a starch molecule in rice. Similar to 1. Cut each chicken breast in half lengthwise. Toss
egg proteins, it increases viscosity by entangling and with 1¾ teaspoons salt and let stand at room tem- If you have a large pot (at least 12 quarts), you
forming a matrix that slows the movement of water. perature for at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes. can easily double this recipe to make 1 gallon.
To put this starch to work, I simply needed to release Cut 8-inch square of triple-thickness cheesecloth.
it from the rice grains. And I knew just the way to Place lemon zest, dill sprigs, coriander seeds, pep- 4 pounds chicken backs and wings
do it: I’d puree some of the rice. percorns, and garlic in center of cheesecloth and tie 3½ quarts water
I went back to the stove and prepared another into bundle with kitchen twine. 1 onion, chopped
batch of soup, this time using 1 cup of cooked rice 2. Bring broth, rice, and spice bundle to boil in 2 bay leaves
from the soup to dilute the eggs. I put the rice into large saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to low, 2 teaspoons salt
the blender jar along with the eggs, yolks, and lemon cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Turn off heat, add
juice. After a minute of processing, I had a starchy chicken, cover, and let stand for 15 minutes. 1. Heat chicken and water in large stockpot
egg-lemon-rice puree to stir into the broth. And 3. Transfer chicken to large plate and discard or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until
there it was, a soup with exactly the luxurious creamy spice bundle. Using two forks, shred chicken into boiling, skimming off any scum that comes to
consistency I wanted. bite-size pieces. Using ladle, transfer 1 cup cooked surface. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently
But there’s more. Reheating avgolemono is typi- rice to blender (leave any liquid in pot). Add lemon for 3 hours.
cally a no-no because the eggs will curdle when they juice and eggs and yolks to blender and process until 2. Add onion, bay leaves, and salt and con-
are cooked a second time. In this version, though, smooth, about 1 minute. tinue to simmer for 2 hours longer.
because the rice has enough starchy bulk even after 4. Return chicken and any accumulated juices to 3. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer
being pureed to physically interrupt the egg proteins pot. Return soup to simmer over high heat. Remove into large pot or container, pressing on solids
from interacting with each other, the proteins had pot from heat and stir in egg mixture until fully to extract as much liquid as possible. Let broth
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE (TOP), JAY LAYMAN (BOTTOM)

a hard time forming curds, even when the soup was incorporated. Stir in chopped dill and season with settle for about 5 minutes, then skim off fat.
reheated—a nice bonus. salt, pepper, and extra lemon juice to taste. Serve.

Flavor Bundle sulfur bonded raw

The sumptuous consistency of the soup was right SCIENCE To Reduce Egginess, Ditch the White to protein egg
where I wanted it, but its flavor needed attention. To create just the right rich, velvety texture in our soup, we use two eggs cooked
Although it was tart from the lemon juice, it needed plus two yolks. But there’s another reason to ditch some of the whites: egg
some tweaking if it was to also boast more complex- They’re largely responsible for the “eggy” flavor of eggs. Though the
ity. I chose garlic, black peppercorns, and lemony whites are typically regarded as bland, they contain sulfur compounds
coriander seeds to add depth, along with dill for an that release hydrogen sulfide when the eggs are exposed to heat, produc-
herbal note. I also used a vegetable peeler to strip the ing that characteristic eggy taste. We tested this premise in our recipe for
zest from a couple of lemons. The intensely flavored French Toast (January/February 2009), dipping bread into milk mixed sulfur bonds
broken
oils in the zest would boost the fruity, citrusy notes with whole eggs and yolks alone. The toast dipped into the yolks-only
without making the soup overly sour. soaking liquid tasted significantly less eggy and more custard-like. Similarly,
WHY WHITES TASTE EGGY
The complexity imparted by the herb bundle, avgolemono made with three whole eggs had an overt egginess that was As egg whites cook, their sulfur
in combination with the creamy soup and tender absent when we switched to two whole eggs and two yolks. bonds break, releasing eggy flavor.
chicken, made this avgolemono outshine all the rest.

MARCH & APRIL 2017

13
 Classic Deli Rye at Home
Rye flour contributes little structure to bread and soaks up water like a sponge. So how
do you make a tender loaf strong enough to hold up under a pile of sandwich fixings?
j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

A
sk people what they think is You might think this would make a loaf
the epitome of a deli sand- more moist, but in reality more water gets
wich, and I’d bet most would bound up by the flour, producing a loaf that
say pastrami on rye. I’d agree tastes drier. This explains why German- and
that it’s one of the best uses of rye out Scandinavian-style rye breads, made with
there, but deli rye is also great for grilled 100 percent rye flour, are so dense and why
cheese or even just spread with butter wheat flour is key in deli rye.
and sprinkled with flaky salt. But a good For a moister loaf, the fix is obvious: Add
loaf isn’t always easy to come by. more water. But there’s a limit; you can
Unlike German and Scandinavian rye add only so much water before the gluten
breads, which are dark, crumbly, and is too dilute and the loaf lacks structure.
dense, American deli rye relies on the addi- After tinkering with the amounts, I hit the
tion of wheat flour to make a loaf that is limit: 13⅓ ounces of water and 8¼ ounces
lighter in both color and texture. A great of rye flour (at least 10 percent more than
loaf should have a fine, even crumb and most recipes call for) with 12½ ounces of
a tender-yet-sturdy texture that will hold bread flour.
up under sandwich fillings. It’s usually a Now my bread was moist and had
torpedo-shaped free-form loaf, but unlike nice rye flavor, but the crumb was a bit
the crust on a rustic loaf, this loaf’s crust too chewy. In many breads, this can be
should be soft and pliable. And what about attributed to the formation of too much
the flavor? Caraway seed’s anise-like flavor gluten. Bread flour is comparatively high
is strongly associated with deli rye, but try a in gluten, and I didn’t want to change my
loaf without caraway and you’ll notice that proportion of wheat flour to rye flour, so I
rye’s flavor is actually fairly similar to that of tried swapping an equal amount of lower-
very fresh wheat flour, but it’s sweeter and protein all-purpose flour for the bread flour.
lacks the bitter edge. This was too far in the other direction—now
I tried a handful of recipes, most of which We brush the loaf with a cooked cornstarch wash after baking. The starch the loaf didn’t have enough structure. King
produced bread that was either too dense, provides sheen while the moisture softens the crust. Arthur all-purpose flour, which lands midway
dry, or crumbly, or too light on rye flavor between most all-purpose flours and bread
and more like regular white or wheat bread. Some doubled. I scored it with a sharp knife every inch flours in terms of gluten, was just right. To further
loaves were also far too small for sandwich-making. or so across the top and baked it in a 375-degree tenderize the loaf, I also added a little vegetable oil.
oven for about an hour.
Flour Power Rye’s True Taste This loaf wasn’t horrible, but Shaping Up
To fashion my own recipe, I Caraway’s anise-like flavor has it was a bit light on rye flavor, the To fix the narrow width of my loaf, I reevaluated the
combined 2 cups of bread flour, become so strongly associated with slashes were too deep, and the shaping process. Instead of rolling the dough up like
1 cup of medium rye flour (see rye bread that many mistakenly think crumb was a bit tight. In addition, a carpet to form a log, which produced small tapered
“Sorting out Rye Flours” on that’s what rye tastes like. But leave the crust lacked an appealing sheen ends, I came up with an approach that relied on a
page 29 for more information), out the caraway and you’ll discover and was somewhat tough, and the series of folds to produce a loaf of even size from end
yeast, water, and molasses in a rye’s true flavor: sweet and almost loaf was too narrow. to end (see “How to Shape a Loaf of Deli Rye”).
stand mixer. I kneaded this until wheaty but without the bitterness. My first change was increas- Slashing a loaf before baking allows it to expand
a loose dough formed, and then ing the proportion of rye flour evenly in the oven, so the fact that the slashes
I let it sit for 20 minutes. This resting stage, known to wheat flour. But as the percentage of rye flour remained as gouges in the finished bread meant PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
as an autolyse, helps a dough build structure. I increased, the density and dryness of the loaf did, the crumb wasn’t expanding much. I looked at
figured I needed the insurance since the test loaves too. Here’s the thing about working with rye flour: It factors that might affect oven spring, the rapid rise
I had made were in need of more. I then added doesn’t contain the proteins that exist in wheat flour in volume that yeast breads experience when they
the salt and continued kneading until a smooth that form gluten, the elastic network that gives bread enter a hot oven. First, I added steam by pouring
dough formed. I took it out, gave it a few more structure and allows it to hold the carbon dioxide pro- boiling water into a preheated pan at the bottom
kneads and shaped it into a ball, and transferred duced during fermentation. On top of that, rye does of the oven. The steam, which transfers heat to the
it to a bowl to proof for a couple of hours, until it contain carbohydrates called arabinoxylans, which loaf more quickly than dry air does, keeps the loaf’s
had doubled in size. I shaped it into a log, covered you don’t find in wheat flour. They allow rye flour exterior soft during the initial stages of baking so
it, and allowed it to proof again until it had nearly to absorb four times as much water as wheat flour. that it can expand easily.

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

14
 S T E P BY S T E P HOW TO SHAPE A LOAF OF DELI RYE
Most recipes shape the dough in a way that results in tapered ends. We press it into an oval and then make a few folds for a sandwich-worthy loaf from end to end.

1. With short end facing edge of coun- 2. Fold point of dough toward center 3. Fold dough in half toward you to 4. Roll loaf seam side down. Tuck ends
ter, fold top left and right edges of dough and press to seal. Rotate 180 degrees form 8 by 4-inch crescent shape. Using under loaf to form rounded torpedo
diagonally into center and press to seal. and repeat folding and sealing. heel of your hand, press seam closed. shape.

Second, I looked at the oven temperature; I DELI RYE BREAD oven to 450 degrees. Line overturned rimmed
decided to increase it from 375 to 450. With these MAKES 1 LOAF baking sheet with parchment paper and dust lightly
changes, the slashes smoothed out considerably and with rye flour. Gently press and stretch dough into
the crumb opened up, giving me a less dense interior. We prefer King Arthur all-purpose flour for this 12 by 9-inch oval, with short end of oval facing
Adding the extra oomph of a preheated baking stone recipe; if you have trouble finding it at your edge of counter. Fold top left and right edges of
was all it took to finish the job. supermarket, you can use any brand of bread flour dough diagonally into center of oval and press
As for the dull, tough crust, many recipes call for instead. Any grade of rye flour will work in this gently to seal. Fold point of dough into center of
brushing the loaf with an egg wash before baking. recipe, but for the best flavor and texture we recom- oval and press seam gently to seal. Rotate dough
This produces an attractive sheen, but the crust will mend using medium or dark rye flour. Do not use 180 degrees and repeat folding and sealing top
still be tough. I used an alternative approach: a cooked blackstrap molasses here; its flavor is too intense. half of dough.
cornstarch wash brushed on after baking. The starch 7. Fold dough in half toward you to form rough
produced a good sheen, and because it was brushed 2½ cups (12½ ounces) King Arthur all-purpose 8 by 4-inch crescent-shaped loaf. Using heel of
on after baking, the moisture helped soften the crust. flour your hand, press seam closed against counter. Roll
With a top-notch deli rye at the ready, I just needed 1½ cups (8¼ ounces) rye flour loaf seam side down. Tuck ends under loaf to form
to find some worthy pastrami. 1 tablespoon caraway seeds rounded torpedo shape. Gently slide your hands
2½ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast underneath loaf and transfer, seam side down, to
1⅔ cups (13⅓ ounces) plus ½ cup (4 ounces) prepared sheet.
More Heat = Better Spring water, room temperature 8. Spray sheet of plastic with vegetable oil spray
1 tablespoon vegetable oil and cover loaf loosely. Let loaf rise until increased in
For a well-risen loaf with an open crumb and a 2 teaspoons molasses size by about half and dough springs back minimally
smooth crust, it’s crucial to maximize oven spring, 1½ teaspoons salt when poked gently with your knuckle, 45 minutes
the rapid rise in volume that yeast breads experi- 4 teaspoons cornstarch to 1¼ hours.
ence when they first go into a hot oven. We found 9. Place empty loaf pan on bottom oven rack.
that three adjustments made all the difference. 1. Whisk all-purpose flour, rye flour, caraway Using sharp paring knife or single-edge razor blade,
seeds, and yeast together in bowl of stand mixer. make six to eight 4-inch-long, ½-inch-deep slashes
USE A BAKING INCREASE OVEN Whisk 1⅔ cups water, oil, and molasses in 4-cup with swift, fluid motion across width of loaf, spacing
STONE TEMPERATURE liquid measuring cup until molasses has dissolved. slashes about 1 inch apart. Pour 2 cups boiling water
The stone acts We pushed the dial 2. Fit stand mixer with dough hook; add water into empty loaf pan in oven.
as a heat source from 375 degrees to mixture to flour mixture and knead on low speed 10. Slide parchment and loaf from sheet onto
beneath the bread. 450 degrees. until cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour baking stone. Bake until deep golden brown and
remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as loaf registers 205 to 210 degrees, 25 to 30 minutes,
needed. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and rotating loaf halfway through baking. Transfer loaf
let dough rest for 20 minutes. to wire rack.
3. Add salt to dough and knead on medium-low 11. Whisk cornstarch and remaining ½ cup water
speed until dough is smooth and elastic and clears in bowl until cornstarch has dissolved. Microwave,
sides of bowl, about 5 minutes. whisking frequently, until mixture is thickened,
4. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and 1 to 2 minutes.
knead by hand to form smooth, round ball, about 12. Brush top and sides of loaf with 3 tablespoons
30 seconds. Place dough seam side down in lightly cornstarch mixture (you will have extra cornstarch
oiled large bowl, cover tightly with plastic, and let mixture). Let cool completely, about 3 hours, before
rise until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours. slicing and serving.
5. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and
ADD STEAM gently press into 8-inch disk, then fold edges toward
Steam (from a pan of boiling water) conducts middle to form round. Cover loosely with plastic and Watch: Deli-Style Magic
heat better than dry air does; it also helps keep let rest for 15 minutes. A step-by-step video is available
the crust soft so it expands more easily. 6. Adjust oven racks to middle and lowest posi- at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17
tions, place baking stone on upper rack, and heat

MARCH & APRIL 2017

15
Buying and Cooking Salmon
High in fat and flavor, with lush meat and skin that crisps, salmon is one of America’s
most-consumed fin fish. Here’s our guide to cooking it right. BY ELIZABETH BOMZE
A great choice for pan searing, grilling, roasting, poaching, smoking, and curing, salmon is one of the most versatile fish you can buy. If you’re buying it fresh, it should
look moist and shiny, not dull, and should smell of the sea rather than overtly fishy. And don’t shy away from buying frozen salmon. If it’s been vacuum-sealed and the
label indicates that it was flash-frozen immediately after harvest, it may taste fresher than the fish behind the counter (which is often flash-frozen fish that’s been thawed).

WHAT MAKES SALMON DIFFERENT?

( Skin That Crisps: As salmon’s abundant fat ( Marbled Fat: Unlike most varieties of whitefish, ( Moist Flesh: Salmon’s thick muscle fibers can
renders during cooking, its skin browns and crisps as which store fat in the liver, salmon’s fat is marbled hold more water than those of whitefish, making
nicely as chicken skin. throughout its flesh, making it taste rich and silky. salmon particularly moist.

( WILD ( FARMED
Alias: Pacific Alias: Atlantic
Species: Chinook (king), chum (dog or silverbrite), Origin: Raised on farms primarily in Norway,
coho (silver), masu (cherry), pink (humpy or hump- Scotland, Chile, and Canada
back), sockeye (red) Flesh color: Naturally gray but dyed pale pink by
Flesh color: Deep pink due to compound called synthetic astaxanthin and carotenoid pigment in feed
astaxanthin from crustacean-based diet Texture: Soft and buttery
Texture: Firm and meaty Availability: Year-round
Availability: Late spring to early fall

SALMON IS FULL DON’T OVERCOOK WILD SALMON Salmon by the Numbers

OF (GOOD) FAT We’ve always cooked farmed salmon to 125 degrees, at
Salmon contains much more fat than whitefish
such as cod, halibut, and flounder, but much of
it is the healthy omega-3 kind. Generally speak-
which point its flesh is ideally firm yet silky. But wild varieties
taste dry at this temperature. In our tests, tasters unani-
mously preferred all varieties of wild salmon cooked to
353,000 Tons consumed annually in
United States

ing, farmed salmon is fattier than wild salmons.

S PECIES TY PE FAT *
just 120 degrees. Here’s why: Wild salmon has naturally
firmer flesh because its connective tissue has more chemical
cross-links. It also lacks the fat that gives farmed salmon the
70 Percentage of global market salmon that is
from aquaculture

Atlantic
Chinook (king)
Farmed
Wild
13.4 g
11.7 g
perception of moistness when cooked. Both of these factors
mean that wild salmon can taste overcooked at 125 degrees. 13 Percentage of fat in some farmed salmon,
which rivals that of some premium ice cream
Sockeye (red) Wild 7.3 g ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE
SHOPPING FOR SMOKED SALMON
Masu (cherry) Wild 7.0 g
Most smoked salmon sold in supermarkets is cold-smoked: It’s cured to draw out moisture and then smoked at
Coho (silver) Wild 5.6 g temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees for anywhere from 1 day to 3 weeks to produce a dense, silky, trans-
Pink (humpy/ Wild 4.4 g lucent texture. (Hot-smoked salmon, which is far less widely available in supermarkets, is smoked at temperatures
humpback) ranging from 120 to 180 degrees for 6 to 12 hours to produce a flaky texture.) We tasted five nationally available
Chum (dog/ Wild 3.7 g products and found that neither the type of salmon (farmed or wild) nor the wood used to smoke it affected our
silverbrite) preferences. What did matter were the curing method and the thickness of the slices. Our winning salmon was
cured with only salt (no sweetener or spices), and we liked thin, nicely tender slices. Our favorite, Spence & Co.
*Fat levels based on 100 grams of salmon Traditional Scottish Style Smoked Salmon ($10.99 for 4 ounces), is “silky,” “delicate,” and “lush.”

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

16
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES
PLUCK PINBONES CUT YOUR OWN FILLETS BRINE BRIEFLY
Filleted fish has had the backbone and ribs removed, When making any salmon recipe that calls for fillets, Though it may seem odd to brine something
but the thin, needle-like pinbones must be removed it’s important to use fillets of similar thickness so that spent its life in salted water, it’s worth
separately. Most fish are sold with the pinbones that they cook at the same rate. We find that the doing. Brining salmon helps the flesh stay moist,
removed, but they are difficult to see and are some- best way to ensure uniformity is to buy a large center- seasons it, and reduces the presence of albu-
times missed by the fishmonger. cut fillet (1½ to 2 pounds if serving four) and cut it min, a protein that can congeal into an unap-
into four equal pieces. pealing white mass on the surface of the fish
when heated. Plus, brining works a lot faster on
TUCK THE BELLY fish than on meat because fish’s shorter, looser
If your salmon muscle structure allows the solution to pen-
fillet comes with etrate more rapidly.
the belly flap
attached, this
thinner section
1. Drape fillet over 2. Use tweezers to grasp will overcook
inverted mixing bowl tip of bone. To avoid when roasted or + +
to help any pinbones tearing flesh, pull slowly seared. To ensure that it cooks on pace with the rest
protrude. Then, work- but firmly at slight angle of the fillet, trim away any chewy white membrane
ing from head end to tail in direction bone is natu- on the surface, flip the fillet skin side up, and gently
end, locate pinbones by rally pointing rather than fold the flap over so the skin is facing down. Secure
running your fingers along straight up. Repeat until the flap by horizontally inserting a toothpick through it
length of fillet. all pinbones are removed. and into the thicker portion of the fillet. Dissolve 5 tablespoons of salt in 2 quarts of
water, add 6 fillets, and let them sit for 15 min-
SKIN IT (IF YOU LIKE) utes. Dry the fillets well with paper towels just
When well rendered and seared to a crisp, salmon skin can rival great roasted or fried chicken skin. But when before cooking them.
you want skinless fillets, you can easily remove the skin before or after cooking.

Before Cooking After Cooking The Gray Anatomy

The gray tissue just below a salmon’s skin is a fatty
deposit rich in omega-3 fatty acids and low in the
pink pigments found in the rest of the fish. Many
sources claim that it tastes fishier than the rest of
the fillet and recommend removing it, but our tast-
ers could barely detect a difference between fillets
with the gray tissue attached and fillets with the
gray tissue removed. If you do choose to remove
1. Using boning knife or chef ’s 2. Rotate fish and grab loose piece Gently slide thin, wide spatula it, simply peel the skin off the cooked fillet and
knife, insert blade just above skin of skin. Run slicing knife between between flesh and skin and use your scrape it away with the back of a knife.
about 1 inch from 1 end of fillet. flesh and skin, making sure knife is fingers of your free hand, if neces-
Cut through nearest end, keeping just above skin, until skin is com- sary, to help separate skin. It should
blade just above skin. pletely removed. easily peel off in 1 piece. REHEAT GENTLY
Reheating salmon can make it smell even stron-
WHY IS SALMON STINKY? PUT IT ON ICE ger since heat oxidizes its abundant fatty acids
Virtually all fish contain the compound Salmon can last up into aldehydes. But reheating it gently will mini-
TMAO, which transforms into a fishy- to twice as long if mize the oxidation.
smelling compound called TMA when stored closer to
the fish are killed and can be detected 32 degrees, rather
when the fish is raw or cooked. But than at the typical
cooked salmon produces an even home refrigerator
more pungent fishy odor for a differ- temperature of
ent reason: Its highly unsaturated fat 40 degrees. Place the fish
oxidizes when exposed to heat. To in a zipper-lock bag on ice in a
minimize fishy odor, consider choosing bowl (or cover it with ice packs) and
leaner wild salmon. place it at the back of the fridge, where it’s coldest.

Place fillets on wire rack set in rimmed bak-

Did you know we have free videos on cooking salmon at CooksIllustrated.com? Go online and watch ing sheet, cover with aluminum foil (to pre-
these and other videos for free. vent exteriors from drying out), and heat in
• Pan-Seared Salmon • Oven-Roasted Salmon 275-degree oven until fish registers 125 to
• Grilled Salmon Fillets • Poached Salmon with Herb and Caper Vinaigrette 130 degrees, about 15 minutes for 1-inch-thick
fillets (timing varies according to fillet size).

MARCH & APRIL 2017

17
 Better Hash Browns
How do you make a crispy, creamy shredded potato cake
that isn’t greasy and is a cinch to flip? It starts with a cake pan.
j BY ANDREA GEARY k

H
ash browns make people The Big Squeeze
crazy, at least according Many recipes call for squeezing the potatoes
to esteemed 19th-century before frying to remove excess moisture
domestic science expert and thus give the cake a crispier outside
Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer. In an 1892 and fluffier interior. But is it worth it? I
lecture, she recounted her research vis- made two batches, one with 2½ pounds
its to psychiatric hospitals, where the of shredded russet potatoes that I squeezed
patients appeared to be addicted to the dry in a towel and the other with russets
fried potato patties they were served, that went straight from food processor to
leading her to conclude that the hash skillet. I tossed each batch with a teaspoon
browns had caused the inmates’ mad- of salt and then fried each in a nonstick skil-
ness. There’s an obvious flaw in Mrs. let with ¼ cup of oil, just enough to coat
Rorer’s logic, but she wasn’t completely the bottom. To flip the potatoes, I slid the
mistaken: Hash browns do have the cake onto a plate, inverted it onto another
power to unhinge. plate, and then slid it back into the skillet
There’s not even consensus on what with a bit more oil. I did this a second time
hash browns are. Some insist the potatoes using Yukon Gold potatoes, a variety with
are diced; others say shredded. Some less starch, to see if it made a difference.
claim the potatoes go into the skillet raw, All four batches had serious problems.
while others say they’re cooked first. Hash The cakes fell apart when I tried to flip
browns must be fried in a large disk. No, them, and the outsides scorched before the
they’re formed into individual patties. innermost potatoes were fully cooked. All
They never contain onions. They always of the samples were underseasoned, and
contain onions. they were also pretty greasy.
For the purposes of my recipe, hash The good news was that the squeezing
browns are shredded potatoes fried in a step seemed worthwhile. The potatoes
round until crispy and brown on both Molding our hash browns in a cake pan not only makes them easy to handle (both varieties) that I had wrung dry pro-
sides and tender and moist (but not wet) but also allows you to make them ahead and cook them the next day. duced hash browns with exteriors that were
on the inside. The cake is transferred to a slightly more crispy and brown and interiors
plate, cut into wedges, and served. And as far as I’m turned crispy and golden? And how do you make that were a bit fluffier than those of the cakes made
concerned, they are simply seasoned with salt and the hash browns crispy but not greasy? with unsqueezed potatoes. That said, they were all
pepper—no herbs, no onions. Such questions might make you wonder if being still a bit gummy and wet. There was also an unfore-
But settling on these guidelines led to a series of a bit unbalanced is a prerequisite for making hash seen problem: All four batches of potatoes had turned
questions. How do you flip a mass of shredded, par- browns at home when, after all, they’re available at an unappetizing color after shredding; the Yukons
tially cooked potatoes without it falling apart? How every diner. But diner hash browns are often soggy were a pinkish brown and the russets a purplish gray.

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN

do you ensure that the inner potatoes are cooked and anemic. I prefer to elevate a simple homemade
through at the exact moment that the exterior has breakfast with ingredients that I always have on hand. Saltwater Cure
A coworker had come up against the discoloration
Flipping Out problem once, and she found that briefly swishing
the shredded potatoes in a saltwater solution kept
Flipping a potato cake can seem intimidating, them pristine. Our science editor explained that when
but our cake is extra-sturdy and the steps 3. Carefully slide
are actually pretty simple. After cooking the cake, browned side
potato cake on one side until it’s up, back into oiled Keeping the Potatoes Pretty
brown and crispy, here’s skillet. When potato cells are broken and exposed to
what you do. the air during grating, an enzymatic reaction leads
to discoloration. We prevent this by dunking the
shreds in salt water, which inhibits the enzyme.
2. Cover with (See “Making Better Hash Browns” to learn about
second large another role the salt water plays in our recipe.)
1. Slide cake onto large plate. plate; invert.

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

18
potato cells are broken and exposed to the air during
grating, an enzyme called polyphenol oxidase mixes S T E P BY S T E P MAKING BETTER HASH BROWNS
with other compounds in the potatoes, resulting in Here’s how we make a potato cake that isn’t greasy or soggy and holds together without added binders.
discoloration. Salt, especially salt in solution, inhibits
the enzyme and thus reduces discoloration.
Putting the idea into action, I prepared two batches
of salt water made with 4 teaspoons of salt and 2 cups
of water. I grated a pound of Yukon Golds and a
pound of russets (both were performing equally up
to this point) and tossed each in the salt water before
wringing them dry. The solution was remarkably
effective. Both batches retained their color for more
than an hour. Though it was a close call, I settled on 1. TOSS the potatoes in a saltwa- 2. SQUEEZE the potatoes to 3. PRESS the potatoes into a
Yukon Golds for their buttery, slightly sweet flavor. ter bath, which allows the potato remove excess moisture and then cake pan to mold them into a com-
The saltwater wash had a couple of additional starch to gelatinize more readily microwave half of them until pact, uniform disk with a smooth
advantages: The cakes were now seasoned through- when heated and results in a more almost fully cooked. These sticky surface that is less likely to stick to
out, and the shreds were a bit more cohesive. It cohesive cake. shreds bind the cake together. the pan.
turns out that salt decreases the temperature at which
potato starch gelatinizes (swells with moisture and
bursts). That gelatinized starch acts as a glue that helps oil per side, provided I used a conventional stainless-
the shreds adhere. steel skillet instead of a nonstick one (see “Skip the
Things were looking up, but the cake could have Nonstick”). Using less oil also meant that the cake was
been easier to flip, and the interior was still wet and less greasy. Another bonus: make-ahead potential. I
unevenly cooked. I was not ready to fuss with fully found I could leave the potato cake in its pan in the
cooking the potatoes by boiling or baking them fridge overnight. In the morning all I had to do was
before frying, but I wondered if a quick stint in the flip it out of the pan and fry it.
microwave might help. Mrs. Rorer probably wouldn’t endorse my hash When Skipping Nonstick
browns recipe, and she might even worry for my Means Less Oil
Stick Together mental health, but with a recipe this good, I’d be Because oil beads up in most nonstick pans
I transferred a batch of shredded potatoes from their crazy not to make them. rather than coating them evenly, we had to use
towel to a bowl; after 5 minutes in the microwave, the at least ¼ cup of oil per side to ensure an even
shreds were steamy and a bit sticky. After 10 minutes BETTER HASH BROWNS coating and thus even browning. A conventional
they were quite cohesive. I transferred them to the hot SERVES 4 TO 6 skillet required half as much oil to cover its
skillet and carefully pressed them into a cake. surface and thus produced an evenly browned
This batch was easier to flip, and because a lot of We prefer using the shredding disk of a food proces- potato cake that wasn’t greasy.
moisture had cooked off in the microwave, it also sor to shred the potatoes, but you can use the large
browned more readily. The exterior was crispier, and holes of a box grater if you prefer.
the inner potatoes were evenly cooked and far less your lightly greased hands, press potatoes firmly into
gummy. The only problem? The potatoes had cooked 4 teaspoons salt pan to form smooth disk. Refrigerate until cool, at
too much and had thus lost the distinctive shredded 2½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and least 20 minutes or up to 24 hours (if refrigerating
texture that characterizes hash browns. Inside, they shredded longer than 30 minutes, wrap pan with plastic wrap
were more like mashed potatoes. ¼ teaspoon pepper once potatoes are cool).
For my next batch, I cooked half the potatoes for ¼ cup vegetable oil 3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 10-inch skillet over
5 minutes, added the remaining potatoes, and then medium heat until shimmering. Invert potato cake
cooked this mixture for another 5 minutes. When I 1. Spray 8-inch round cake pan with vegetable onto plate and carefully slide cake into pan. Cook,
pressed the potatoes into the skillet, the softer, more oil spray. Whisk 2 cups water and salt in large bowl swirling pan occasionally to distribute oil evenly and
cooked portion bound the shreds together. This cake until salt dissolves. Transfer potatoes to salt water and prevent cake from sticking, until bottom of cake is
had a crispy brown crust and the texture I was after. toss briefly to coat. Immediately drain in colander. brown and crispy, 6 to 8 minutes. (If not browning
But shaping the potatoes into a cake in the hot Place 2½ cups potatoes in center of clean dish towel. after 3 minutes, turn heat up slightly. If browning
skillet didn’t feel terribly safe, and I wondered if I Gather ends together and twist tightly to wring out too quickly, reduce heat.) Slide cake onto large plate.
could make the cake even easier to flip. So instead of excess moisture. Transfer dried potatoes to large Invert onto second large plate. Heat remaining 2 table-
transferring the next batch of microwaved potatoes to bowl. Add pepper and toss to combine. Microwave spoons oil until shimmering. Carefully slide cake,
the skillet, I placed them in a greased 8-inch cake pan. until very hot and slightly softened, about 5 minutes. browned side up, back into skillet. Cook, swirling pan
After they had cooled a bit, I pressed them firmly into Place remaining potatoes in towel and wring out occasionally, until bottom of cake is brown and crispy,
a smooth disk. After about 20 minutes in the refrig- excess moisture. Add to microwaved potatoes and 5 to 6 minutes. Carefully slide cake onto plate and
erator the potatoes were completely cool, and I tipped toss with two forks until mostly combined (potatoes invert onto serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve.
the disk out onto a plate and slid it into the hot skillet. will not combine completely). Continue to microwave
I discovered that this technique had virtues beyond until potatoes are hot and form cohesive mass when
making the cake easier to handle. This smooth, pressed with spatula, about 6 minutes, stirring halfway See How It Works
compact potato cake didn’t have as many nooks and through microwaving. A step-by-step video is available
crannies, so it wasn’t as likely to stick to the skillet, 2. Transfer potatoes to prepared pan and let cool at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17
which meant I could fry it in just 2 tablespoons of until no longer steaming, about 5 minutes. Using

MARCH & APRIL 2017

19
 How to Cook Baby Bok Choy
This vegetable’s clean, mild flavor is an asset. We don’t muddy it with browning.
j BY SANDRA WU k

T
o many American home cooks, bok choy, Add bok choy and water and immediately cover.
a mainstay in Chinese restaurants, is a bit Cook, covered, shaking pan occasionally, for 2
mysterious. A member of the cabbage minutes. Remove lid, toss bok choy, and then push
family, it’s an appealing two-fer. Its crisp, bok choy to sides of skillet. Add garlic mixture to
mild-tasting stalks retain some of their texture center and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant,
when cooked, while the leaves wilt and soften. about 20 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into bok choy,
But how do you cook a vegetable with two such sprinkle with salt, and continue to cook, stirring
disparate parts? constantly, until all water has evaporated, stems are
When it comes to the larger heads of mature bok crisp-tender, and leaves are wilted, 1 to 2 minutes
choy, cooking the leaves and stems separately is one longer. Transfer to platter and serve.
solution. But with baby bok choy, it’s really a shame
to separate the two parts since one of this smaller ver- SAUTÉED BABY BOK CHOY
sion’s assets is that it offers a lot of visual appeal on WITH CHILI-GARLIC SAUCE
the plate when served whole or halved. The stalks of
the younger variety are slightly more tender, but it’s Whisk 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon chili-
still not a cinch to deliver perfect crisp-tender stalks garlic sauce, 1 teaspoon sugar, and ½ teaspoon corn-
and wilted but not mushy leaves. I decided to see starch together in small bowl. Before transferring
what I could do. cooked bok choy to platter, add soy sauce mixture
I started with a pound of baby bok choy, which to skillet and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce
meant eight small heads. I considered cooking whole is thickened and coats bok choy, about 15 seconds.
heads but changed my mind when grit remained in Omit salt.
the nooks and crannies even after cleaning. I settled
on halving the heads, which would also allow for For crisp-tender stems and leaves that are wilted but SAUTÉED BABY BOK CHOY
faster cooking. not mushy, we steam and then sauté. WITH OYSTER SAUCE AND GINGER
First, I tried a simple pan-seared approach—cook-
ing the bok choy in a skillet until the leaves had a mere ½ teaspoon of cornstarch gave all of the sauces Omit 1 garlic clove and add 1 tablespoon grated
wilted—but the stems didn’t fully cook through by just the right consistency. I now had a clutch of sau- fresh ginger to garlic-oil mixture in step 1. Whisk
the time the leaves were tender. I also found that I téed baby bok choy options that were easy to prepare, 2 tablespoons oyster sauce, 2 teaspoons toasted
didn’t love the browning the bok choy picked up, as full of flavor, and an attractive addition to any plate. sesame oil, and ½ teaspoon cornstarch together in
it muddied the vegetable’s flavor. small bowl. Before transferring cooked bok choy to
I suspected that a stint of steaming at the start SAUTÉED BABY BOK CHOY platter, add oyster sauce mixture to skillet and cook,
might ensure more even, thorough cooking of the SERVES 4 stirring constantly, until sauce is thickened and coats
stems with no browning. The vegetables were a tight bok choy, about 15 seconds. Omit salt.
fit in the pan at first, but after a few minutes of cov- If using heads larger than 2 ounces each, quarter
ered cooking (with some water thrown in to provide them instead of halving. We spin the bok choy dry
TECHNIQUE
enough steam), the leaves began to wilt and cook after washing to avoid adding too much water to
down. I removed the lid and cooked the bok choy the pan. Our recipes for Sautéed Baby Bok Choy HOW TO CLEAN BOK CHOY
a bit longer; by the time the liquid had evaporated, with Miso Sauce and Sautéed Baby Bok Choy with
the stems had just the right texture. Adding minced Shallot and Fish Sauce are available for free for four
garlic gave me a simple version perfect for any meal. months at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17.
For a few variations showcasing flavorful sauces, I
came up with some combinations for the base flavors 4 teaspoons vegetable oil
(soy sauce with chili-garlic sauce, oyster sauce with 2 garlic cloves, minced
sesame oil, mirin with miso, or fish sauce with pep- 8 small heads baby bok choy (1½ to 2 ounces PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
per flakes) and varied the aromatics (ginger or shallot each), halved, washed thoroughly, and
instead of garlic). A little sugar helped balance the spun dry
salty flavors of the miso and fish sauce variations, and 2 tablespoons water
¼ teaspoon salt
Bok choy’s tightly layered stems can retain a lot of
Bok Choy Basics 1. Combine 1 teaspoon oil and garlic in small grit. To thoroughly clean them, swish the halved
A step-by-step video is available bowl; set aside. heads in three changes of water. Spinning them dry
at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17 2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch avoids adding too much water to the pan.
nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering.

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

20
 Tuscan Shrimp and Beans
Shrimp and bright flavors transform cannellini beans from winter to all-weather fare.
j BY STEVE DUNN k

I
In Italy, Tuscans living in rural areas were separately, I poached them—brined first to season
once referred to as mangiafagioli, or “bean them and help them stay juicy—in the bean mixture
eaters,” a reference to their consumption over low heat during the final few minutes of cook-
of economical bean dishes. The most tradi- ing. The shrimp flavored the beans, and the beans
tional preparation is an ultrasimple wintry one in also insulated the shrimp from direct heat so that
which dried cannellini beans are simmered with they stayed plump and moist.
herbs and garlic until tender and then drizzled I freshened up the stew’s rich seafood flavor with
with olive oil for serving. But recently I came a bit of lemon zest and juice and made one final
across a dish making the rounds on cooking blogs tweak: adding the liquid from one can of beans,
that pairs cannellini with shrimp, a combination which contained just enough starchy body so that
that adds up to a nice springtime stew. Most of the stew’s consistency was lightly thickened and
the recipes go something like this: Warm several almost creamy—ideal for eating from a spoon or
cups of cooked beans in olive oil with a little of scooping up with a piece of crusty bread.
their cooking liquid. Meanwhile, sear a pound of Deeply flavorful and on the table in less than half an
shrimp separately, sauté some onion and garlic, hour, this was the kind of quick dinner I could whip
and stir in chopped tomatoes. Add the shrimp and up on a weeknight and the kind I want to tuck into
some shredded fresh basil, and spoon the mixture on a lazy Sunday. I was officially a mangiafagioli, too.
over the warmed beans.
I loved the sweet-savory pop of flavor from the TUSCAN SHRIMP AND BEANS
shrimp in these versions, but that flavor was confined SERVES 4 TO 6
to the shrimp themselves rather than integrated into
the dish. I wanted to bolster that seafood flavor so it We prefer untreated shrimp, but if your shrimp are
permeated the beans, too. I also wanted the dish to treated with added salt or preservatives like sodium tri- Poaching the shrimp in a concentrated stock together
be fast, so I decided from the outset to use a couple polyphosphate, skip brining in step 1 and increase the with the beans enhances the flavor of both.
of cans of cannellini beans rather than dried beans. salt to ½ teaspoon in step 3. Serve with crusty bread.
Since it wasn’t yet tomato season, I also determined 6 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and carefully
that I would use canned tomatoes instead of the 2 tablespoons sugar add 1 cup water. When bubbling subsides, return
fresh ones that many recipes called for. For ease, and Salt and pepper skillet to medium heat and simmer gently, stirring
because they maintain their shape due to the addi- 1 pound large shell-on shrimp (26 to 30 per occasionally, for 5 minutes. Strain mixture through
tion of calcium chloride, I would use the diced kind. pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, colander set over large bowl. Discard shells and
My next decision was to borrow a trick from our shells reserved reserve liquid (you should have about ¼ cup). Wipe
Shrimp Scampi recipe (January/February 2016) ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil skillet clean with paper towels.
and make a 10-minute concentrated stock from 1 onion, chopped fine 3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil, onion, garlic, ancho-
the shrimp shells, which are packed with the savory 4 garlic cloves, peeled, halved lengthwise, and vies, pepper flakes, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon
compounds we associate with shrimp flavor. This sliced thin pepper in now-empty skillet over medium-low heat.
required nothing more than browning the shells in 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and minced Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened,
oil (which further boosts the flavor they contribute), ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes about 5 minutes. Add 1 can drained beans, 1 can
simmering them in a little bit of water, and straining 2 (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans (1 can beans and their liquid, tomatoes, and shrimp stock
them before discarding them. I then warmed the drained and rinsed, 1 can left undrained) and bring to simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally,
beans in this shrimpy liquid for a few minutes. 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained for 15 minutes.
This change helped make the dish seem more ¼ cup shredded fresh basil 4. Reduce heat to low, add shrimp, cover, and
integrated, but I wanted still more complex seafood ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon cook, stirring once during cooking, until shrimp
flavor. The fix was threefold. First, in the same pan juice are just opaque, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove skillet
I’d used to make the stock, I sautéed two minced from heat and stir in basil and lemon zest and juice.
1. Dissolve sugar and 1 tablespoon salt in 1
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY

anchovies along with other simple aromatics and Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to
seasonings; it’s an ingredient we often turn to when quart cold water in large container. Submerge serving dish, drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon
we want to add deep savoriness to dishes both shrimp in brine, cover, and refrigerate for 15 oil, and serve.
seafood and otherwise. Second, I added the shrimp minutes. Remove shrimp from brine and pat dry
stock back to the pan along with the canned toma- with paper towels.
toes and then simmered the beans in this mixture 2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over Look: It’s Simple
for about 20 minutes, which not only concentrated medium heat until shimmering. Add shrimp shells A step-by-step video is available
the seafood flavor even more but also helped meld and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17
all the flavors. Third, instead of searing the shrimp turn spotty brown and skillet starts to brown, 5 to

MARCH & APRIL 2017

21
 Chocolate Sheet Cake
Our cake boasts a deeply chocolaty crumb, plush frosting, and a fuss-free method.
Plus, it taught us something new about cocoa powder.
j BY ANNIE PETITO k

S
heet cakes don’t require the work becomes coated in fat and thus can’t inter-
that goes into making layer cakes; act with water to form gluten. And the less
they are simply spread with a gluten, the more crumbly the cake.
thick coat of frosting and served I poured the batter into a greased 13 by
straight from the pan. When the results 9-inch baking pan, which would produce a
are good, a sheet cake yields great reward higher ratio of cake to frosting than a baking
for the effort. But most versions I’ve made sheet would. I baked it at 325 degrees for
are dry and crumbly, have barely a whisper about 30 minutes. It wasn’t too sweet, but
of chocolate flavor, or are so dense that despite loading up the batter with cocoa and
they verge on brownie territory. Loose, chocolate, it lacked the chocolate punch and
drippy frostings make cakes too messy to depth that I was hoping for.
eat out of hand, while stiff, fudgy ones Fortunately, trading the melted butter for
weigh down the crumb; more often than vegetable oil solved that; its neutral flavor
not, they’re cloyingly sweet, too. produced a cleaner-tasting cake that allowed
The kind of chocolate sheet cake I could the chocolate to shine. I also saved myself a
turn to again and again would boast a ten- couple of bowls to wash by mixing the dry

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; HERSHEY’S RECIPES PHOTO: COPYRIGHT 1940, THE HERSHEY COMPANY (USED WITH PERMISSION)
der, moist, sturdy crumb that was seriously and wet ingredients into the saucepan where
chocolaty and a silky chocolate frosting just I’d heated the chocolate mixture.
sweet enough to stand apart from the flavor Before focusing on the frosting, I made
of the cake. It would come together with the cake with natural cocoa, just to check
baking staples and basic equipment—no that it worked. I’d expected this cake to
mixers or food processors needed. be paler (Dutching raises the pH of cocoa,
darkening its color) and a bit less complex
Cocoa Loco in flavor, but what caught me by surprise
Some recipes for chocolate cake call for was its noticeably drier crumb. To be sure
cocoa powder but no bar chocolate, but that I hadn’t overbaked the cake, I made
we’ve found that using both produces cakes Both the cake and frosting are mixed by hand and come together with no several more, using multiple natural cocoas,
with deeper chocolate flavor. That’s because, more than a half-hour of active time. and was met with the same dry result each
ounce for ounce, cocoa powder packs more time. It wasn’t until I did some digging
chocolate flavor than any other form of chocolate, less crumbly cake than the creaming method. In that about cocoa—including talking to Clay Gordon,
while bar chocolate adds complexity, fat, and sugar. method, flour is combined with creamed butter and the creator and moderator of chocolatelife.com,
In fact, when I made a series of chocolate cakes to sugar alternately with liquid, so some of the flour a clearinghouse for chocolate information—that I
get my bearings, the one with the fullest chocolate understood the problem: In addition to being more
flavor contained plenty of both—¾ cup of cocoa acidic than Dutch-processed cocoas, most natural
powder and 8 ounces of melted bittersweet chocolate. When Chocolate Cake cocoas are much lower in fat, which makes them
That recipe didn’t specify which type of cocoa to use, Became Chocolate very absorbent. In essence, the low-fat natural cocoas
natural or Dutch-processed, but I used the latter. We American chocolate cake as we know it—one that were robbing the cake of moisture (for more infor-
reserve Dutch-processed cocoa, which tends to be contains chocolate, cocoa powder, or both—is mation, see “Dry Cake? Check Your Cocoa”). I’d
more expensive, for recipes where cocoa makes up a a relatively young dessert. The term “chocolate be sticking with the Dutch-processed cocoa for sure.
significant portion of the batter because we’ve found cake” originally referred
that its flavor is more complex and balanced than that to a yellow or vanilla cake Icing on the Cake
of natural cocoa; “Dutching” refers to processing the that was served with a A simple sheet cake deserves an equally simple frost-
cocoa with an alkali that neutralizes its natural acidity. chocolate beverage. Only ing—one that can be stirred together while the cake
To make a basic chocolate cake batter, I melted once chocolate became bakes. That eliminated buttercreams, which require
butter with the chocolate and added the cocoa pow- cheaper, around 1940, did hauling out a stand mixer or food processor. For
der so that its flavor molecules would release fully (or home cooks start baking something creamy and spreadable, I considered
“bloom”). Then I whisked eggs with sugar; added the with large amounts of a ganache. This frosting often takes the form of
butter-chocolate-cocoa mixture, milk, and vanilla; and cocoa and recipes for a pourable glaze of melted chocolate and cream,
whisked in the dry ingredients (flour, salt, and baking truly chocolaty cakes sometimes gilded with softened butter. But ganache
soda) until a smooth batter formed. This “dump- come about. can range from soupy to stiff, depending on the ratio
and-stir” method is fast and easy and also produces a of cream and butter to chocolate, so I would adjust

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

22
the ratio of those ingredients until I had something Cake 35 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking.
thick and creamy. 1½ cups (10½ ounces) granulated sugar Let cake cool completely in pan on wire rack before
One recipe I’d tried called for spreading the cake 1¼ cups (6¼ ounces) all-purpose flour frosting, 1 to 2 hours.
with a milk chocolate ganache, the lighter flavor of ½ teaspoon baking soda 4. FOR THE FROSTING: While cake is bak-
which countered the darker cake nicely. Riffing on this ½ teaspoon salt ing, combine chocolate and cream in large heatproof
idea, I landed on ⅔ cup cream heated with a pound 1 cup whole milk bowl set over saucepan filled with 1 inch barely
of chocolate; the high proportion of chocolate gave 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine simmering water, making sure that water does not
me a thicker ganache than most standard recipes. I ¾ cup (2¼ ounces) Dutch-processed touch bottom of bowl. Whisk mixture occasionally
then added 2 sticks of softened butter, which lent it cocoa powder until chocolate is uniformly smooth and glossy,
body and made it spreadable at room temperature. ⅔ cup vegetable oil 10 to 15 minutes. Remove bowl from saucepan.
But waiting for my frosting to cool took 2 to 3 hours, 4 large eggs Add butter, whisking once or twice to break up
so I refrigerated it, which cooled it down within an 1 teaspoon vanilla extract pieces. Let mixture stand for 5 minutes to finish
hour so that it was ready to use when the cake finished melting butter, then whisk until completely smooth.
cooling. Then I gave the mixture a good whisk, which Frosting Refrigerate frosting, without stirring, until cooled
made it smooth and creamy, before slathering a thick 1 pound milk chocolate, chopped and thickened, 30 minutes to 1 hour.
layer of it over the cake. ⅔ cup heavy cream 5. Once cool, whisk frosting until smooth.
The dark, complex cake and milky-sweet, satiny 16 tablespoons unsalted butter, (Whisked frosting will lighten in color slightly and
frosting was a combination that I knew would tempt cut into 16 pieces and softened should hold its shape on whisk.) Spread frosting
both milk and dark chocoholics alike. And since it evenly over top of cake. Cut cake into squares and
comes together with baking staples and an unfussy, 1. FOR THE CAKE: Adjust oven rack to middle serve out of pan. (Leftover cake can be refrigerated
appliance-free mixing method, this is a chocolate cake position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly spray in airtight container for up to 2 days.)
built for any cook and any occasion. 13 by 9-inch baking pan with vegetable oil spray.
Whisk sugar, flour, baking soda, and salt together
CHOCOLATE SHEET CAKE WITH in medium bowl; set aside. FROSTING CONSISTENCY,
MILK CHOCOLATE FROSTING 2. Combine milk, chocolate, and cocoa in large BEFORE AND AFTER
SERVES 12 saucepan. Place saucepan over low heat and cook,
whisking frequently, until chocolate is melted and Because both chocolate and butter are fluid when
While any high-quality chocolate can be used here, mixture is smooth. Remove from heat and let cool warm and solid at room temperature, the frosting
our preferred bittersweet chocolates are Ghirardelli slightly, about 5 minutes. Whisk oil, eggs, and vanilla consistency will change from start to finish.
60% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate Premium into chocolate mixture (mixture may initially look
Baking Bar and Callebaut Intense Dark Chocolate, curdled) until smooth and homogeneous. Add sugar
L-60-40NV, and our favorite milk chocolate is Dove mixture and whisk until combined, making sure to
Silky Smooth Milk Chocolate. We recommend mak- scrape corners of saucepan.
ing this cake with a Dutch-processed cocoa powder; 3. Transfer batter to prepared pan; bake until firm
our favorite is from Droste. Using a natural cocoa in center when lightly pressed and toothpick inserted
powder will result in a drier cake. in center comes out with few crumbs attached, 30 to

SCIENCE Dry Cake? Check Your Cocoa

There are two types of unsweetened cocoa powder: natural and what
is known as Dutch-processed. The Dutch-processed kind is often more At first, the frosting will be pourable and warm.
expensive, but in recipes that call for a hefty amount of cocoa powder
(more than ½ cup), it is worth seeking out. For one thing, Dutched
cocoa has been neutralized with alkali to take away some of the cacao
bean’s harsher, more acidic notes. But here’s another, far less well-known
DUTCHED COCOA reason: Dutched cocoas typically have far more fat than natural cocoas,
Free moisture does not get sometimes twice as much. Fat adds a perception of moisture in baked
bound up with the starches, so
goods. In addition, cocoa powders with more fat contain less starch.
the cake is more moist.
Why is that important? Starch absorbs free moisture in a batter, so the
crumb bakes up drier. In fact, the starches in cocoa powder absorb up to
100 percent of the powder’s weight. (Compare that with the starches in
flour, which can absorb only 60 percent of the flour’s own weight.) This
helps explain why we found our cake to be noticeably moister when Once cooled, the frosting will be thicker and
made with Dutched rather than with natural cocoa powders. stiffer. Giving it a quick whisk after chilling will
But not just any Dutched cocoa will do, since fat percentages vary. Our make it smooth and spreadable.
recommended cocoa from Droste contains 22 percent fat. Compare that
with the 11.9 percent in Equal Exchange Dutch Processed Cocoa Powder,
an amount that’s similar to those of most natural cocoas. The takeaway:
NATURAL COCOA
In baked goods that call for a higher proportion of cocoa powder, we’ll Watch It Happen
Free moisture gets bound up
with the higher level of starches, be calling for higher-fat Dutch-processed cocoas not just for their rounder A step-by-step video is available
so the cake is drier. flavor but for the moist texture they provide. at CooksIllustrated.com/apr17

MARCH & APRIL 2017

23
 Premium Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
High-end extra-virgin olive oils offer a world of flavor beyond
grocery-store options. But if you want to trade up, where do you begin?
j BY LISA McMANUS k

E
xtra-virgin olive oil, the lush, vibrant happens even faster when the oil is exposed to air, oils? Mostly, it boils down to the
product of fresh olives, is premium by heat, and light. So we narrowed down the countless control a producer has over the
definition. At least, it should be. But as we number of producers worldwide by first zeroing in on production process—from the
reported in our story about supermarket premium oils produced in the Northern Hemisphere; quality of the fruit to how quickly
olive oils (November/December 2015), most of that way, every product we chose would be roughly and carefully the olives are pressed
what you’ll find doesn’t deserve that prestigious the same age. Then we carefully purchased oil from to how well the freshness of the
label. The oils are either mislabeled as a higher only the most recent harvest. The final lineup of 10 oil is preserved during bottling,
grade; mishandled so that their bright, complex fla- included oils priced from $0.94 to $2.13 per ounce storage, and transport.
vor turns rancid; or even fraudulently blended with (plus shipping) from France, Italy, Spain, Greece, To keep costs low, producers
other, cheaper oils and passed off as the real deal. Tunisia, Portugal, and the United States. All of the of mass-market extra-virgin olive
Only one of the oils we sampled in that tasting, oils are sold online by reliable retailers; some are also oils usually purchase cheap bulk
from California Olive Ranch, was a cut above the available in gourmet shops or select supermarkets. oils from all over the world and
rest—“rich” and “fruity,” with a “peppery aftertaste.” Our first step was to sample the oils plain, which blend them at a facility thousands
At $0.59 per ounce, it’s one of the pricier supermarket made it immediately clear that these oils did indeed of miles from where the olives
IN THE DARK
options but costs just a fraction of what you’ll spend taste remarkably fresh. As we then tasted them tossed were grown and pressed. This not
If your EVOO
on a bottle of premium extra-virgin. Which led us to with butter lettuce and a little salt and finally drizzled comes in a light- only suggests that these produc-
ask: Since the good stuff sells for twice as much as over a bowl of warm cannellini beans (a typical appli- colored bottle, ers have little to no control over
or more than California Olive Ranch does, what are cation in parts of Italy), we marveled at how each oil wrapping it in foil the handling and freshness of
you getting for your money? We decided to find out. seemed as distinct as a fingerprint, with flavors we’d will help protect it their oils but also explains why
from the oxidizing
Our supermarket olive oil tasting taught us never experienced with supermarket oils: “artichoke,” effects of light. supermarket extra-virgin olive oils
that freshness is the most important consideration “apples,” “flowers,” “tomato stems,” “watercress,” usually lack the distinct flavors
when buying extra-virgin olive oil, since it begins to and even “dark wood.” They didn’t just enliven that premium oils are known for.
degrade as soon as it’s pressed, and this depreciation the lettuce and beans; they elevated the vegetables’ Conversely, the premium oils we tasted are pro-
flavors to something out of the ordinary. duced in smaller, vertically integrated operations,
many of which have run on the same site for hundreds
Hitting All the Right Notes By the Numbers of years. This means the olives are grown, picked, and
Olive oil industry experts use spider charts to The oils tasted top-notch to us, but to be sure that pressed—and the oil bottled and sold—in a single
display flavor nuances in high-quality oils, rating they truly qualified as “extra-virgin,” we subjected location or within a strictly defined and limited area,
the intensity of 10 flavors on a scale of 0 to 10, them to chemical testing and a sensory screening. and thus these oils are fresh, distinctly flavorful, and
Well-balanced oils such as Gaea Fresh (plotted Olive oils are rated for quality through a two- carefully monitored for quality.
below) hit the full spectrum of flavors in nearly part evaluation, according to standards set by the
equal measure, confirming our own perceptions International Olive Council, the industry’s worldwide Bottom Line
of this oil’s particular flavors, including nuances of governing body. To pass the sensory test, the oil We think these premium oils are worth every penny.
artichoke, grass, and pungency. must not only have what experts call “zero defects” And while we singled out one particular crowd-
fluidity but also possess “some fruity flavor.” Among the pleaser with “ultrasmooth flavor” (a Greek product
retronsal chemical standards, an oil must not exceed certain called Gaea Fresh), in a break from our usual proce-
persistence artichoke
levels of free fatty acids, peroxides, and other chemical dure, we didn’t rank the oils. Instead, we categorized
parameters that would indicate olive deterioration, them by flavor profile, since choosing the “best”
5.0
6.2

4.5

pungent grass poor processing or storage, or oxidation. bottle is a matter of personal preference. Think of it
4.8 5.0 For a sensory perspective, we sent a randomly as comparing different styles of red wine as opposed
coded sample of each oil to a group of trained tast- to comparing a lineup of Pinot Noirs.
4.0 4.5
ers for their expert opinions. In general, the panelists Given the prices of these premium oils, we’ll still
bitter green agreed with our assessments of most of the oils and keep a bottle of our supermarket winner, California
3.7

5.3

used an array of descriptive terms for distinct flavors Olive Ranch, on hand for day-to-day use. But after
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN
3.5

such as “artichoke” and “tropical fruit.” As for the tasting that product against a “nicely balanced”
olive leaf greenly fruitly chemical tests, the premium oils passed most mea- crowd-pleaser such as Gaea Fresh and a “complex
ripely fruitly surements of freshness and quality with flying colors, and bold” powerhouse such as McEvoy Ranch, we
whereas in our testing of supermarket oils, most of were convinced that these oils are something special
CHARTING BALANCED FLAVOR
The olive oil industry uses spider charts like the products barely squeaked by. and are worth the splurge when you want to breathe
the one above to plot an oil’s flavors. So what actually accounts for the dramatic differ- life into salad greens, punch up a piece of grilled fish,
ences in quality between premium and supermarket or simply dunk bread in a superb oil.

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

24
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
verso, nell'orazione, nel libro il povero clandestino epigramma, che
anonimamente ronzava intorno a loro; e, raccomandati all'opera di
chi li fece eterni, passano alla posterità cinti di un nimbo d'infamia,
monumenti vivi dello stridente contrasto tra la gente che impera e
quella che langue, esempî di tanti altri, che vissero della loro vita e
godettero della loro fortuna.
Tale è la sorte di Verre. Non son molti davvero i personaggi
dell'antichità, specialmente di ordine secondario, delle cui gesta
possiamo dire di sapere tanto come di Verre. Ma tutto quello che
sappiamo di lui, sgorga da una fonte sola, e questa non è una fonte
spassionata ed impersonale; anzi è un atto di accusa, dove la
narrazione si trova incastrata tra invettive, sarcasmi, dileggi.
E, quasi che ciò non bastasse, l'accusa non è soltanto la reazione di
un'anima offesa dallo spettacolo dell'ingiustizia, ma, che che
Cicerone faccia per attenuarne l'effetto, è l'assalto di un avversario
ed un atto coordinato a tutto un piano di condotta politica e destinato
ad avere un'azione immediata sugli avvenimenti politici del tempo.
Pure, benchè la fonte sia così unilaterale e ci manchi generalmente
la possibilità del controllo, convenientemente usata ed interpretata,
ci dà modo di formarci un concetto non incompiuto dell'uomo e del
tempo.
Chi ha qualche volta osservato l'indole e le fasi dello svolgimento de'
drammi giudiziari, come usa chiamarli, ha veduto come spesso, nelle
mani di chi accusa o difende, i fatti vengano abilmente svisati ed
affermati o smentiti secondo un preconcetto disegno. Ma tal'altra
volta i fatti son tali, o così provati, che si contende piuttosto della loro
importanza e della interpretazione a cui possono andare soggetti, ed
allora anche un'accusa od una difesa può esser un documento
storico di notevole valore. E questo sembra sia il caso delle
«Verrine». In esse per giunta troviamo riflettuto, sia pure per farne
strazio, tutto il sistema di difesa di Verre, e di tratto in tratto ci è dato
gettare uno sguardo sull'ambiente esteriore, e conoscere ciò che si
operava dietro la scena e da quali impressioni era dominata e come
si moveva la folla, che, assistendovi, partecipava anch'essa a questo
così importante episodio della vita romana.
Accanto a qualche esagerazione ed a qualche interpretazione
forzata, da alcuni particolari stessi che non hanno diretto rapporto
con l'accusa, balza fuori in qualche modo la figura dell'accusato. Da
tutto l'insieme di dati piccoli e grandi, da quella sfida cinica alla
giustizia ed all'opinione [304], da quella furberia talvolta sino
infantile [305] e da quella cieca e sventata imprevidenza, da quella
passione delle opere di arte morbosamente irresistibile [306], da
quella sua irritabilità [307] che, eccitata reagisce feroce, da quella sua
rapacità che diventa crudeltà, da quel suo furioso entusiasmo della
libidine e dell'orgia [308], e da quella sua incontinenza che non
conosce confine, si ricompone -- se tutti que' dati son veri -- una
figura di delinquente quale la scienza moderna [309] lo concepisce:
un tipo di degenerato morale, che da un lato si ricongiunge alla follia
e dall'altro presenta come un ritorno atavico dell'uomo primitivo, del
selvaggio. Tra la civiltà greca, in mezzo a cui vive, egli appare
veramente il tardo nepote de' favoleggiati compagni di Romolo,
assertori del diritto della forza, rapitori di donne, banditi; o come
un'anticipazione di quello che sarà tra un secolo Nerone, amatore
dell'arte cieco ed impotente, che vuol trasportare nella vita un suo
grande sogno di lusso e di piacere e, dominato da invincibili impulsi,
piega e spezza tutto quanto si para come un ostacolo al suo
egoismo armato del potere.
E insieme alla figura di Verre viene a galla tutto un altro gruppo di
figure, quale intraveduta appena, quale sbozzata e pur chiara; e tutta
una serie di concetti morali dominanti la vita pubblica e la privata, e i
buoni e i cattivi istinti della folla e l'ambiente stesso della vita
giornaliera de' dominatori e dei soggetti; tutto un momento insomma
della vita romana, che il processo di Verre rievoca e ricompone
intorno a Verre, fatto centro di tanti interessi, ire e passioni, che,
compenetrandosi con la sua sorte e la sua persona, le danno una
particolare importanza storica.
C. Verre e la sua famiglia.
Chi egli fosse e da quale famiglia uscisse, non parve sempre, nè a
tutti ben chiaro. Il nome romano, che ha la particolarità di
determinare così bene un uomo ne' suoi rapporti pubblici e privati,
nelle sue relazioni famigliari e di schiatta, appare in C. Verre,
piuttosto che monco, suscettibile di ambigue interpretazioni. Fu
creduto anche che Verre fosse solo il cognome, e il nome gentilizio,
per tutto taciuto, fosse Cornelio; ma è invece il contrario ch'emerge
dal testo stesso di Cicerone [310], e si può affermare con sicurezza
che quello di Verre fu un nome gentilizio [311], e, cosa del resto non
rara, egli non ebbe cognome. Nè il nome stesso ha il carattere
eccezionale, che da principio si sarebbe inchini ad attribuirgli, se può
ritenersi soltanto come una forma più antica di Verrius [312], della cui
schiatta la famiglia di Verre potrebbe così essere stata un ramo,
distratto sempre più dal tronco comune.
Vi sarebbe qualche motivo per credere che non potesse già vantare
parentele illustri e potenti [313]; in ogni modo era nobile [314]. Suo
padre, C. Verre anch'esso [315], dovea aver nome d'insigne
manipolatore di elezioni e vivea in una cerchia d'incettatori di
voti [316], incettatore egli stesso, addestrando nell'arte, perchè non si
perdesse, altri membri di sua famiglia, un Q. Verre [317] per esempio,
della tribù Romilia.
Malgrado ciò, o forse per ciò, non gli mancò un posto nel senato.
Sua madre avea comune la schiatta ed il nome con Q. Tadio [318].
Questi i congiunti che avea per parte de' suoi genitori. Il suo
matrimonio appresso lo legò con vincoli di affinità a Vezio, cavaliere
romano [319]: un legame non sappiamo di qual genere e tra chi, lo
rese anche affine de' Metelli, ma solo alla vigilia del suo giudizio [320].
Di qual famiglia fosse il genero non sappiamo. L'anno della sua
nascita ci è del pari ignoto, ma sapendo della sua morte avvenuta, e
non per causa naturale, nel 43 av. C. e che, pretore in Sicilia era
padre di un figlio presso ad uscire dall'adolescenza e di una figliola
già fatta sposa [321]; possiamo da tutto ciò argomentare che all'epoca
della sua pretura probabilmente egli doveva avere un'età non
maggiore o di poco a quella richiesta per covrire l'ufficio.
Egli dunque dovè fare con rapidità e con fortuna la sua carriera, a
cui si preparò non con pazienza di studî e nobile esercizio di vita;
ma, piuttosto, sulla scorta dell'esempio paterno e, conforme all'indole
dei tempi, emergendo nel lieto pandemonio delle gazzarre cittadine.
Non si logorò proprio negli studî; e se Cicerone non lo calunnia
anche in questo [322], non trovò nemmeno il tempo di acquistare una
conveniente cultura, neppure quello di apprendere il greco, cosa
relativamente comune per gli uomini del suo stato. Ma Cicerone
certamente esagerò anche questa volta.
In ogni modo da adolescente si sarebbe annunziato, quale sarebbe
poi stato maturo. Cicerone fa le viste di non volersi occupare della
sua vita di adolescente; ma ciò non è che un artifizio retorico;
ricorrendo alla figura della preterizione, trova benissimo il modo di
rievocare le orgie notturne e la gioventù spesa tra lenoni, biscazzieri,
mezzani, e i buchi fatti al patrimonio paterno; quella sua prima milizia
non ricca che d'ignominie, e in cui profuse oro insieme ed onori; tutta
insomma l'impura adolescenza che ora si rinnovava nel figliuolo [323].
La questura di Verre.

Questo stesso suo modo di vita non doveva essergli d'impedimento

a salire nelle nuove condizioni della vita romana e specialmente
nell'infuriare delle dissensioni civili; e lo vediamo infatti entrare nella
vita pubblica come questore [324] del console Cn. Papirio Carbone
nella lotta della parte mariana e sillana. Cicerone gli fa tener questa
carica quattordici anni prima della causa e, benchè, secondo quella
che ad alcuni può parere la più usuale maniera di contare, si
sarebbe aspettato che avesse detto quindici [325], riesce evidente
che intendeva riferirsi all'anno 84 a. C. [326].
Il fatto che Cicerone lo fa restare questore ancora sino al sacco di
Rimini [327], il quale non potè accadere che nell'82, e ad anno
abbastanza avanzato, ha dato origine ad una viva controversia
sull'epoca vera della questura di Verre; onde, mentre qualcuno [328]
l'assegna all'anno 84, altri [329] l'attribuisce all'anno 83, ed altri [330]
ancora all'anno 82. Che Cicerone assegnasse l'entrata di Verre in
carica all'anno 84 è fuor di dubbio e non pare lo facesse per una
svista, giacchè egli si ferma molto alle particolarità del fatto, rileva il
nome di L. Scipione, siccome quello del console succeduto a Cn.
Papirio Carbone e mostra di ben conoscere il seguito de' fatti di
quegli anni, che del resto si erano svolti sotto i suoi occhi.
D'altra parte per l'allusione al sacco di Rimini, per la menzione de'
conti resi a P. Lentulo e L. Triario [331], questori nell'anno 81, si deve
pure ritenere, che nell'anno 82, C. Verre occupava l'ufficio di
questore.
Di fronte a questi fatti restano prive di valore le opinioni unilaterali di
quelli che vorrebbero far valere la data di un anno o quella di un
altro, e pare si debba pensare ad una prorogazione dell'ufficio o ad
una rielezione di Verre all'ufficio di questore; cosa tanto più probabile
in quanto avrebbe fatto riscontro appunto alla reiterazione del
consolato di Cn. Papirio Carbone [332].
Cronologicamente dunque la notizia di Cicerone non offre materia ad
appunti: merita bensì di essere accolto con ogni cautela il giudizio
che dà del modo onde l'ufficio fu gerito e degli incidenti che
l'accompagnarono. Verre infatti nell'anno 82 si staccò dalla parte
mariana per aderire alla sillana, e Cicerone non ha parole sufficienti
per bollare più e più volte questa sua defezione [333]. A sentire il suo
accusatore, prima di tutto C. Verre non fece questa apostasia per
considerazioni politiche, ma semplicemente a scopo di rapina. Infatti
da' conti resi della sua questura appariva com'egli dovesse avere
ancora presso di sè seicentomila sesterzi, quanti costituivano la
differenza tra il denaro ricevuto e lo speso, e, intanto, a' suoi
successori non seppe darne altra giustificazione se non d'averli
lasciati a Rimini, dove a cagione del sacco doveano essere andati
perduti [334]. Ora come accadessero le cose, noi non siamo in grado
di dire; ma si può ben dire che la giustificazione di Verre non menava
univocamente a quell'interpretazione che Cicerone le dava. E tanto
più apparisce parziale, quanto più passionato ed esagerato è il
biasimo che Cicerone getta su Verre, indipendentemente da ogni
ragione di furto, pel semplice abbandono del suo console.
Per averne un chiaro intendimento occorre mettere in relazione quel
fatto con altri avvenimenti del tempo stesso. L. Cornelio Silla era da
poco sbarcato in Italia e già dalla parte avversa molti cominciavano
ad inclinare verso di lui. L'esercito di L. Scipione abbandonava il suo
comandante e si rendeva a Silla [335], e colle vittorie de' suoi legati e
l'affermarsi della sua fortuna, la demoralizzazione e la sfiducia
entravano nel campo nemico; e le diserzioni spesseggiavano tanto
più, quanto l'uomo, a' suoi benigno ed a' nemici crudo, sapeva con
tutte le arti del fascino personale e con tutte le minacce della più
inesorabile vendetta attrarre a sè gli uomini [336]. Se qualche cosa è
notevole, è precisamente questo: che Verre potè ancor tanto tempo
dopo la venuta di Silla in Italia restare fedele alla sua parte, e non
passò all'avversario, se non quando la sua parte si andava ormai
dissolvendo senza rimedio e i suoi interessi di Romano e di nobile lo
gettavano in braccio a Silla; e probabilmente non si poteva dire
ch'egli abbandonava il suo console, ma che il suo console
abbandonava lui e l'esercito e la sua parte, cercando in Africa uno
scampo [337]. Il peggio che in questo può dirsi di Verre è che, al pari
di tanti altri, in questa e nelle posteriori guerre civili, anch'egli finì per
obbedire a quel senso dell'opportunità, che, se oggi è perfino il
programma e la bandiera di un partito, fu sempre come la bussola
de' moltissimi che, nella vita civile e nella politica, in ogni tempo
ebbero a supremo scopo all'esistenza il salvataggio della borsa e
della pelle.
Verre potè dire d'aver assicurato l'una cosa e l'altra. Silla lo mandò
nel Beneventano tra i suoi amici, per diffidenza come vuole
Cicerone [338], per ragione di uffizio, se come è lecito dedurre dalla
resa di conti fatta a' questori dell'anno successivo, egli tenne la
carica sino alla fine dell'anno [339]. Silla in ogni modo, com'era natura
dell'uomo, lo beneficò e lo protesse, e Verre potè andare innanzi
nella sua carriera. A Roma dopo questa sua questura, rimase
appena tre giorni [340], occupato del resto, come sembra, in missioni
ed incarichi, probabilmente nel Beneventano.
La legazione e la proquestura di Verre.
Due anni dopo, nell'anno 80, Cn. Dolabella di parte aristocratica,
stato l'anno innanzi pretore, va come propretore in Cilicia ed, a
proprio legato, non sa eleggersi miglior compagno di Verre, e dopo
la morte del suo questore C. Malleolo gli affida anche la gestione
della questura in sua vece [341]. Che legazione e che proquestura!
Qui Cicerone aggrava la mano e fa Verre responsabile non solo di
quello ch'egli potè commettere, ma di quello altresì che commisero il
suo capo ed i suoi dipendenti. Che cosa in verità fece di suo
proposito e per suo conto, che cosa come ministro del propretore?
Noi non lo possiamo sapere completamente. Dolabella era ornai
tramontato dall'orizzonte e a Cicerone fa commodo addebitare tutto
a Verre, anche quello di cui Dolabella era stato riconosciuto
colpevole in giudizio [342], ricorrendo ad induzioni ed illazioni,
invocando la testimonianza di gente danneggiata e stizzita, o
disposta ad accusare anche per propria difesa [343]. In ogni modo, se
anche alcuni fatti non ebbero origine in un preconcetto disegno, ma
furono l'incidente di una notte di crapula [344]; se in alcuni atti egli fu il
braccio allungato di Dolabella, non bisogna durar molta fatica per
ammettere che il suo passaggio, più che quello di un legato del
popolo romano, dovè sembrare talvolta quello di qualche
infortunio [345]. Soltanto, di questi infortunî in pellegrinaggio si era
destinati a vederne più d'uno.
I Dolabella erano di razza rapaci e fraudolenti [346] e C. Malleolo, il
questore, era tutt'altro che un puritano [347]. Un uomo dal senso
morale molto mediocre, come era Verre, non poteva proporsi altro
che di accomodarsi alle leggi dell'ambiente e farne suo pro, e così
fece. A quella scuola egli apprese e ritenne per poi, se mai, emulare
o superare i maestri. Era, pare, la sua prima scorsa su' poderi del
popolo romano ed egli vi faceva, come è dire, il suo noviziato; per
non perdere tempo anzi incominciò dal viaggio. La sua casa era
ancora poco adorna di statue greche, e la selvetta che la circondava
sarebbe stata lieta di porgere le sue ombre alle divinità
elleniche [348]; i provinciali aveano ancora molta lana da potersi
tosare e, se anche un colpo di forbici arrivava alla pelle, ciò li
avrebbe resi più umili; e, finalmente, a lui che usciva dalla guerra
sillana, gli ozî di Marte, dio infido e terribile, doveano parere utili a
propiziarsi Afrodite, e tutte le avventure galanti della provincia
poteano fornire un diletto, lieto a godere oggi e bello a narrare
domani.
Il viaggio.

All'opera dunque! A Sicione fa al magistrato cittadino richiesta di

danaro. Non si arrende? L'avarizia può più del nome romano e della
paura? Ebbene, lo si caccia in uno stambugio e, acceso un buon
fuoco di legna verdi, lo si lascia a considerare se ha minor pregio
l'oro, o dà maggior molestia il fumo [349]; citra sanguinis effusionem!
Di oro intanto sarà meno avara in Atene Minerva, e al magistrato
romano che la vide e non ne partì a mani vuote, ne rimarrà due volte
grato il ricordo [350]. Sono ancora troppo ricchi, troppo ornati questi
templi di Grecia e d'Oriente, pur dopo che vi passò, da tanti anni, il
conquistatore romano: ha troppe statue Apollo nel suo tempio, a
Delo ove nacque, e nella notte è bene che ne sparisca qualcuna. Ma
Apollo è qualche volta un dio iroso e capace di difendere la sua
proprietà, come un qualunque avaro mortale, anche invocando da
Poseidone un uragano: la tempesta infatti viene e la nave, che porta
la sacrilega preda, si sfascia ed il turbato flutto del mare riporta alla
riva le statue sacre di Apollo; sicchè -- fu superstizione o necessità di
resipiscenza? -- Dolabella deve farle rimettere là donde furono prese
e donde il popolo, tacito, ne deplorava la mancanza, pur non avendo
il coraggio di reclamarle [351].
Ma non tutti gli dèi sanno o vogliono difendersi come Apollo: a Samo
il tempio di Giunone resta a dirittura spogliato [352]; a Tenedo lo
stesso dio indigete Tene non riesce a restar fermo al suo posto [353];
Diana di Perga vede depredato non solo il suo tempio, ma sè stessa
degli ornamenti muliebri che porta [354]. E invano tentano gli uomini
di sopperire alla neghittosità degli iddii; a' legati di Samo, che vanno
a muoverne lamento, C. Nerone risponde che vadano a Roma, e
Roma è lontana, e, quando essi vi arrivino, potranno avere la
sorpresa di vedere che, in prova d'animo generoso, il loro
depredatore si è offerto ad ornare per un giorno delle opere d'arte
rubate i fòri e le vie [355].
Intanto bellissime statue sono portate via di forza da Chio, da
Erythrae, da Alicarnasso [356]; da Aspendo, in cospetto di tutti, su
carri tirati da buoi s'asporta tutto quanto stava ad ornamento di
edifizî pubblici e di templi e, tra l'altro, quel citarista, che per la
perfezione sua era passato in proverbio e si dicea capace di cantare
ogni cosa [357].
Non perdona agli dèi il nuovo padrone e tanto meno perdona agli
uomini; ma, in cambio, come ama piacere, ad ogni costo, alle donne!
Il suo amore egli lo insinua, lo offre per tutto, più spesso lo impone a
dirittura.
L'avventura di Lampsaco.

Vi è una missione per i re Sadala e Nicomede, e Verre fa sì che Cn.

Dolabella gliela commetta; una felice occasione a queste spedizioni
feconde e senza pericoli. Sulla sua via è Lampsaco, ed egli vi fa
sosta con tutto il suo seguito. Dolce e generoso è il vino di
Lampsaco e belle ne sono le donne; ma bella più di tutte è la
figliuola di Filodamo, bella e pudica. Verre è ospite di Janitore, di cui
non gli riesce potere abbandonare la casa, e a Filodamo impone,
ospite non desiderato, non accetto, Rubrio, un suo bracco, lo stesso
appunto che avrebbe scovata la bella fanciulla. Filodamo tuttavia
vuol fare ammenda dell'ospitalità mal concessa, e la casa del ricco
anfitrione s'apre per accogliere, convitati da Rubrio, Verre e il seguito
suo. Fu intanto pensiero preconcetto, come vuole Cicerone, o fu
caso? Ma, libando e crescendo l'eccitazione del convito, Rubrio si
rivolge a Filodamo per suggerirgli di chiamar lì la sua bella figliuola
e, al timido schermirsi di Filodamo, altre voci si levano più pertinaci
invocando la donna, e, tra le insistenze e la minacciata violenza
degli uni e la resistenza degli altri, si accende una rissa in cui un
littore, Cornelio, viene ucciso e donde lo stesso Rubrio esce
ferito [358]. La voce e l'ira del tumulto viene il giorno appresso portata
in piazza, e Verre, assalito in casa da una folla furibonda, che
minaccia di metter tutto a ferro e fuoco, deve la sua salvezza
soltanto all'interposizione de' cittadini romani, che erano colà per i
loro commerci [359]. E parte, rinunziando anche per ora a chiedere la
punizione dell'offesa fatta alla sua autorità ed alla sua persona [360];
ma la vendetta non scende meno sicura nè meno rapida sul capo di
Filodamo e del figliuolo. Cn. Dolabella lascia la sua provincia di
Cilicia e l'esercito e la guerra per accorrere in Asia ed indurre C.
Nerone, esitante, a punire l'uccisione avvenuta nella sua
giurisdizione, e da un tribunale composto di Dolabella, de' suoi
prefetti e tribuni, dello stesso Verre e di creditori di Greci sempre ligi
a' legati; Filodamo e il suo figliuolo passano nelle mani del carnefice
sul fòro di Laodicea [361], dando a tutta l'Asia spettacolo più della
vendetta, che della giustizia romana.
Il brigantino di Mileto.

Pur troppo gli Asiatici erano costretti a vederne d'ogni colore. Verre
passa per Mileto, ne tratta con alterigia i magistrati, e, mentre si fa
ospitare lautamente, li maltratta e taglieggia la città con la richiesta di
un contributo di lana; poi, partendo, chiede una nave che gli serva di
scorta sino a Myndo, e, subito, con T umiltà di chi serve, gli è dato
un brigantino ben allestito, ben armato, scelto tra i dieci che Mileto
aveva a servizio della stessa repubblica. Ma il magistrato della
repubblica è anche più infido del mare: soldati e marinai tornano, ma
a piedi; il vascello non più; venduto a L. Magio e L. Fannio, dichiarati
poi nemici di Roma, esso va in corsa da Sinope a Dianium, dalla
Spagna al Mar Nero!
E guai a muoverne pure lamento! Lettere di Dolabella arrivano e
impongono che non se ne parli, che se ne cancelli la traccia dagli atti
pubblici, che tutto insomma torni nel buio [362].
Verre tutore.

Ma Verre andava omai a vele spiegate ed era la fortuna che gli

gonfiava la vela. C. Malleolo, il questore, viene ucciso ed è una
doppia eredità che tocca a Verre, la proquestura, che Cn. Dolabella
gli affida, e la tutela del figliuolo dell'ucciso: doppia eredità; chè
anche la tutela può, in certi casi e con certe persone, valere come
un'eredità.
Qui, a dir di Cicerone, sarebbero cominciate quelle esimie baratterie
nelle compre del frumento a un prezzo designato dalla stessa legge
che ne ordinava l'acquisto (emptum, imperatum), e nelle riscossioni
fatte in luogo del frumento da fornire al pretore ed al suo seguito
(aestimatum), che poi in Sicilia assunsero così larghe proporzioni.
Nè si tratta di tentativi tanto timidi, se fu poi addebitato un profitto di
tre milioni di sesterzî a Dolabella per frumento, cuoi, sacchi, panni,
che avrebbe dovuto prendere e non prese, avendone in cambio
danaro [363].
E il tutore del pupillo valeva quanto il pubblico amministratore. C.
Malleolo, uomo senza scrupoli, per affermazione dello stesso
Cicerone faceva il paio con Verre ed era ricco di masserizie, di servi,
di crediti verso le città. In tutto questo panno ora Verre avrebbe
tagliato a suo agio, senza discrezione: de' vini, che quegli aveva in
gran copia, pensò a rifornire le sue cantine; tutte le argenterie, gli
schiavi, o che si raccomandassero per la bellezza dell'aspetto o per
particolari attitudini, li prese per sè ed i crediti li fece a poco a poco
sfumare tra le sue mani. Egli avrebbe esatto due milioni e
cinquecentomila sesterzi, ma di dare i conti non se ne parlava;
messo alle strette dalla madre e dall'ava del pupillo, perchè dicesse
almeno quanto aveva portato, parlò di un milione, poi, per uno
scambietto di cui non possiamo comprendere nulla, come nulla
mostrava di comprenderne Cicerone, con una dolosa cancellatura, il
milione si trovò ridotto a seicentomila sesterzi, che apparivano dati al
servo Crysogono ed accreditati al pupillo Malleolo, senza che
nemmeno si fossero integralmente versati [364].
Verre e Dolabella in giudizio.

Quelli della provincia erano i giorni della gazzarra; ma, mentre il

lampo dell'oro e lo strepito de' tripudî rendeva il governatore ebbro, e
come un ebbro sicuro di sè stesso, quelle lagrime di manomessi, di
spogliati, di violate talvolta si addensavano lontano, a Roma, per
iscoppiare loro, sul capo, al ritorno. Era il fuoco del purgatorio non
acceso, oltre la vita, da una trascendente giustizia divina; ma qui in
terra, e non dalla pietà verso i provinciali, ma dall'invidia, dall'avidità
delusa, dall'ira di parte, dall'ambizione, da tutto il vento delle passioni
insomma, che vi soffiava dentro, facendo di quei giudizî una fiamma
da tregenda. Un M. Scauro della famiglia degli Aurelî [365], più
probabilmente che di quella degli Emilî [366], è forse quello stesso
che Cicerone poco innanzi nomina come questore in Asia [367] e che
colà poteva avere avuto notizia de' fatti, giovane d'anni ma astuto e
corrivo alla vendetta, si faceva nell'anno 78 accusatore di Dolabella,
chiedendogli conto del suo governo di Cilicia.
Quanta parte nel malgoverno aveva avuta Dolabella? quanta ne
aveva avuta Verre?
Cicerone tendenziosamente ne vorrebbe addossare tutta a questo la
soma, facendone quasi il solo responsabile degli stessi fatti, di cui
Dolabella riportò condanna: un'esagerazione, comoda certamente a'
bisogni della causa, ma manifesta sì per la diversa posizione de' due
e sì per le stesse parole di Cicerone, quando fa intervenire Dolabella
a metter la polvere sugli atti di Verre od a sperderne la traccia [368] e
quando egli stesso, per induzione, arriva a concludere che se
Dolabella ne fu l'autore, Verre ne fu l'esecutore materiale [369]. È
chiaro in ogni modo che se il governo della provincia avea dovuto
farne due amici e la concordia era sopravvissuta anche alla
spartizione della preda, ora nel giudizio l'istinto della propria
conservazione dovea farne due avversarî; e M. Scauro, intento
sopratutto a colpire Dolabella, trasse naturalmente partito da questa
posizione di cose, anche senza quell'anticipato e perverso accordo,
che forse può essere una posteriore induzione di Cicerone [370].
Cicerone fa colpa anche a Verre di non aver resi i suoi conti prima
della condanna di Dolabella; eppure nulla vi era di più giusto. La
responsabilità anche amministrativa di Verre e la sincerità de' suoi
conti dipendevano direttamente dal grado di responsabilità di
Dolabella e dalla provata verità delle sue attestazioni in giudizio; era
impossibile parlare di resoconto, mentre si disputava se Dolabella
avesse oppur no ricevuto, e se Verre gli avesse dati cinquecento
trentacinque mila sesterzî, e se alla sua volta Verre avesse ricevuto
altri duecento trenta duemila sesterzî non riportati ne' suoi registri, e
di frumento un altro milione ed ottocentomila sesterzî parimenti non
riportati. Può darsi benissimo che ne' suoi registri Verre avesse
trascurato d'iscrivere i crediti verso Q. e Cn. Postumio Curzio e che
avesse pure in Atene versato nelle mani di P. Tadio quattro milioni di
sesterzî [371]: in ogni modo da quel processo, donde correva rischio
di riuscire come un accusato, ne uscì immune. Fu a proposito di
questo giudizio che Verre dovette trattenersi in Roma tre giorni [372],
la sola dimora da lui fatta in città dopo l'esercizio della sua questura,
a quanto almeno dice Cicerone; e, se ciò è vero, questa sua breve
fermata e la lunga assenza valgono anche a togliere credito a'
maneggi che Cicerone gli attribuisce nella causa di Dolabella.
La pretura di Verre.

Dove fu e che cosa fece, dopo ciò, per più che tre anni? Poichè era
questo il tempo in cui la parte mariana, rifatta ardita dalla morte di
Silla, faceva una nuova levata di scudi in Italia e maggiore anche e
più fortunata nella penisola iberica; è probabile che Verre non restò
inoperoso e contribuì a sostenere le sorti della parte aristocratica di
cui era un campione. È notevole che Cicerone per questo triennio e
più non gl'imputa niente di determinato, e, benchè dica che la
cronaca cittadina non cessa di occuparsi di lui e non per
festeggiarlo, non è improbabile ritenere che, durante la sua
lontananza, gli echi di fatti suoi non commendevoli, che aveano
potuto ripercuotersi nel processo di Dolabella, si andarono
spegnendo, e con essi, come per chi è lontano suole appunto
avvenire, molte ire e rancori.
Quando Verre tornò a Roma nel 679 (75 a. C.), vi tornò per essere
elevato ad una delle più alte cariche dello Stato, a quella che, se
poteva essere seconda in importanza ad un'altra, poteva in dignità
ritenersi non seconda ad alcuna. Verre divenne pretore. Fu tutta
opera della corruzione elettorale e di nient'altro che della
corruzione? Cicerone lo dice nella forma più esplicita e tale che non
ammette repliche. Trecentomila sesterzî distribuirono per suo conto i
divisores ed ottantamila n'ebbe l'accusatore perchè recedesse
dall'accusa [373]. Certamente il credere alla corruzione non è fare
ingiuria nè all'uomo, nè a' tempi; l'uno e gli altri anzi lo suggeriscono;
ma non bisogna neppure dimenticare che un uomo come Verre,
duro, inesorabile ostinato e senza soverchi scrupoli, era per la parte
in cui militava, e lo mostrò, uno strumento non trascurabile, ed il
potere della parte aristocratica, allora prevalente, va pure tenuto in
conto. Comunque ciò fosse, quando il suo nome uscì trionfante dal
voto dei comizî, egli dovè sentire tutto l'orgoglio e la gioia di chi è
salito così alto che non ha se non da tendere la mano per afferrare il
supremo fastigio del potere. Anche la sorte lo favoriva; egli era
pretore urbano [374].
Strumento ed artefice al tempo stesso della legge, egli si assideva
oggi in Roma come l'arbitro della giustizia civile; e, tra un anno,
l'aspettava la provincia, dove, questa volta, con autorità incontestata,
e se dio voglia, con migliore fortuna avrebbe compiuta quello che
aveva fatta ed anche quello che forse non aveva fatto Dolabella.
Ma dunque, o Cicerone, è un pirata che si accampa nel fòro di
Roma? [375].
Il pretore -- occorre appena rammentarlo -- non era semplicemente
l'esecutore della legge, stretto dalla parola di essa in determinati
confini ed a spiegare l'opera sua soltanto caso per caso. Fra gli
elementi che concorrono all'esplicazione della coscienza e della vita
giuridica romana, il pretore è l'elemento più vivo ed operoso, e il suo
editto è lo spirito innovatore che svolge le istituzioni e le leggi antiche
e le adatta alle nuove condizioni di vita; deriva da' nuovi rapporti
economici e sociali le nuove norme giuridiche e segue assiduamente
Roma in questo allargamento progressivo della sua sfera di azione
ed in questa graduale fusione della civiltà cittadina con la civiltà
universale. Quanto più vasto il compito adunque, tanto più
facilmente irto di pericoli, fecondo di errori; ed il rimedio a tutto non
era in una espressa disposizione di legge, ma piuttosto nella natura
transitoria del provvedimento, nel divieto al suo adempimento
opposto da un magistrato di potere uguale o maggiore, nel limite
sopratutto che ciascuno dovea sapere imporre a sè stesso. Ancora
un freno di meno: l'editto non era il programma del candidato, che
diveniva legge poi per l'eletto; ma uno schema, neppure
rigorosamente obbligatorio, del pretore designato ad entrare in
funzione. Che cosa non dovea prestarsi a divenire un tale ufficio
nella Roma del settimo secolo, divenuta il mercato del mondo, in
quella gara intemperante di ambizioni, d'interessi, di cupidigie, e
come doveva essere ben saldo sulla sua sedia curule il pretore per
resistere a quel cozzo, e quante volte vi restava saldo? E che cosa
ne fece Verre? Che pagina scrisse egli in questa storia sì gloriosa,
se guardata a grandi tratti, della pretura romana? L'opinione di
Cicerone è risaputa: la pagina che Verre vi scrisse, fu quale l'avidità
potea suggerire, la malafede dettare, e l'insipienza scrivere.
Designato pretore non fece che tessere tutta una rete piena di
viluppi per tenderla poi ne' giorni dell'uffizio: tale è il suo editto. Non
è nemmeno la manifestazione di uno o di un altro concetto giuridico;
è, così, un ingegno messo insieme per prede predestinate. E
Cicerone, al giorno del giudizio, ne strappa via alcuni nodi e alcune
maglie per agitarli innanzi a' giudici e al popolo, onde tutti li vedano,
tutti concepiscano il resto.
L'eredità di P. Annio.

P. Annio Asello è morto, che era ancor pretore C. Sacerdote, il

predecessore di Verre: non avea che una figliuola e la legge
Voconia, rogata secondo la data più probabile [376] novantaquattro
anni innanzi, nel 585 (169 a. C.) dal tribuno Voconio, favente
Catone, avrebbe potuto toglierle o limitarle il diritto ereditario; ma egli
non era censito ed il diritto ereditario della figliuola così resta salvo.
Pure così non pare a Verre. Giacchè vi è un L. Annio, erede secondo
chiamato, a quanto dice Cicerone, Verre lo fa venire a sè, si accorda
con lui, ed ecco introdotta nell'editto una regola interpretativa della
legge Voconia, e con effetto retroattivo per giunta, per cui la figliuola
di P. Annio vien dichiarata incapace di succedere al padre e l'eredità
si devolve a L. Annio [377].
L'eredità di P. Trebonio.
P. Trebonio muore lasciando varî eredi, tra i quali un suo liberto e,
poichè suo fratello A. Trebonio è proscritto e non può essere suo
erede, impone agli eredi istituiti di giurare che farebbero in modo di
far arrivare ad A. Trebonio almeno la metà di ciascuna porzione
ereditaria. Gli eredi, consapevoli della legge Cornelia che interdiceva
qualsiasi aiuto al proscritto, vanno da Verre, mostrano l'impossibilità
legale del giuramento e sono immessi nel possesso dell'eredità: più
ingenuo il liberto presta il suo giuramento e ne è escluso [378].
Ancora. Muore durante la pretura del predecessore di Verre, di C.
Sacerdote, C. Sulpicio
L'eredità di Sulpicio Olympo.

Olympo ed istituisce suo erede M. Ottavio Ligure, uomo di posizione

molto elevata per nome, qualità personali ed opulenza. M. Ottavio
Ligure era stato già immesso nel possesso dell'eredità dal pretore C.
Sacerdote, quando l'anno appresso, sotto la pretura di Verre, la
figliuola del patrono di Olympo si fa a chiedere la sesta parte della
sua eredità. Nell'assenza di M. Ottavio, il fratello Lucio, e con lui altri
amici e parenti, cercano tutelare il suo interesse: L. Gellio ne
assume il patrocinio, sopravviene in fine lo stesso M. Ottavio e cerca
far intendere a Verre le sue ragioni e che il suo editto non può avere
effetto retroattivo e via; ma Verre gli fa intendere alla sua volta,
senza ambagi, che non è questione di argomenti giuridici e
disquisizioni legali, è soltanto questione di quattrini [379].
Cicerone dice di poter evocare seicento sentenze almeno, che
hanno in sè stesse l'impronta della corruzione [380]. Si trattava di una
realtà o di una amplificazione? Non è punto difficile propendere per
questa seconda opinione.
Che che ne dica Cicerone, i tre casi innanzi esposti, che sono i tre
esempi addotti da Cicerone, non sono tali da far dire che Verre
uscisse assolutamente fuori della legalità, decidendo come decise.
Verre e la lex Voconia.

Noi non possiamo dire di conoscere veramente bene la legge

Voconia, giacchè le notizie, che su di essa ci sono pervenute, sono
in parte incomplete, e in parte contraddittorie [381]. Due tratti dello
stesso Cicerone, che si riferiscono ad essa [382], se a qualcuno sono
sembrati atti ad essere conciliati [383], ad altri sono sembrati
assolutamente repugnanti. E discordanti sono ancora sembrati un
luogo di Gaio [384], ed un altro di Cicerone [385], che si riferiscono non
alle regole dell'eredità, ma a quelle de' legati, imposte dalla legge
Voconia.
Stando alla relazione che l'epitome liviana (l. c.) dà della legge
Voconia, il procedimento di Verre sarebbe stato affatto conforme al
precetto legislativo; giacchè il divieto di istituire erede una donna
sarebbe stato generale e non limitato a' cittadini aventi un censo
maggiore di centomila assi. Ma forse potrà ritenersi che l'epitome,
per lo stesso sforzo di essere compendiosa, sia riescita monca; e
sia. Sia dunque il divieto limitato come Gaio [386] vuole a' testatori
aventi un censo superiore a centomila assi. Di che cosa Cicerone fa
colpa a Verre? Non già di avere escluso a torto dalla successione di
P. Annio la figliuola perchè unica; bensì di averla esclusa a torto,
perchè suo padre non era censito. Anche qui l'uso della parola
«censito» ha generati alcuni equivoci sulla legge Voconia; quasi che
per Cicerone, essa si riferisse a tutti i censiti, non a quelli della prima
classe soltanto. Il concetto di Cicerone non è questo: egli intende
dire semplicemente che P. Annio, se fosse stato censito, sarebbe
stato annoverato nella prima classe; ma egli non era stato censito. E
perchè non era stato censito? Nessuno ce ne dice categoricamente
la ragione; ma, rammentando le fasi cui andò soggetta la censura
dopo Silla, che, se non l'abolì di dritto, l'abolì di fatto [387],
intenderemo facilmente che P. Annio, il quale forse appunto in quel
giro d'anni avrebbe dovuto essere censito, non fu iscritto per la
mancata redazione delle nuove liste. Ciò posto, nell'applicazione
della legge Voconia, doveva aversi riguardo al vecchio censo od alle
nuove mutate condizioni di fatto? È chiaro che il diritto pretorio
specialmente, che aveva uno scopo eminentemente pratico, dovea
attenersi a questa seconda norma; e a questa si attenne Verre. Che
P. Annio fosse un uomo facoltoso, risulta da tutto il complesso della
narrazione di Cicerone, e questa, cui si è accennato, è la maniera
più probabile di spiegare come egli non fosse compreso nel censo. E
nel caso suo doveano trovarsi anche più e più altri; e la legge
Voconia sarebbe stata praticamente elusa, anche più che non si
tentasse di fare con altri mezzi [388]; onde il provvedimento di Verre,
anche volendo disputare sulla sua legalità, era in ogni modo giusto.
Ed allora sembra che non vi fosse nemmeno ragione di parlare di un
effetto retroattivo arbitrariamente dato da Verre alla norma da lui
stabilita. Anzi tutto il divieto della retroattività non fu mai così
assoluto, specialmente nella sua pratica applicazione [389], come si
potrebbe credere; e sopratutto, quando si poteva trattare di norme di
ordine pubblico, nel novero delle quali bisogna far entrare la legge
Voconia. Per giunta poi, qui non si trattava di una nuova legge, ma di
una interpretazione di una legge già esistente e di un suo
adattamento alle innovate condizioni dello Stato; e non si vede
quindi sino a qual punto si potesse parlare di effetto retroattivo e di
violazione di diritti quesiti.
Verre e la lex Cornelia de proscriptis.

Che se poi si guarda alla condotta di Verre nell'altro caso, nella

successione di P. Trebonio, la sua giustificazione è più che mai
evidente. Se infatti la lex Cornelia de proscriptis [390] vietava
qualunque aiuto a' proscritti, ne confiscava tutti i beni e li rendeva
perfino incapaci di ereditare nelle successioni legittime; il testamento
di P. Trebonio offendeva direttamente quella legge. Che doveva fare
Verre in tal caso? Per quella norma giuridica appresso anche più
recisamente prevalsa, per cui la condizione illecita negli atti di ultima
volontà non gl'invalida, ma ne resta invece invalidata, l'eredità bene
ricadeva a quegli eredi che, consapevoli della legge, non giurando,
mostravano di non osservare la condizione apposta al lascito; e
Verre gl'immise senz'altro nel possesso dell'eredità. Quanto al
liberto, Cicerone stesso riconosce, che, col suo giuramento, se fece
atto di ossequio alla volontà del suo patrono, fece del pari cosa
contraria alla legge; soltanto sembra intenda che Verre avrebbe del
pari dovuto immetterlo nel possesso ereditario, curando poi con
un'azione indipendente di sottoporlo alla pena conveniente e privarlo
anche dell'eredità per la violata disposizione di legge. Ma, se anche
tutto questo lungo rigiro poteva rispondere al rigoroso schematismo
della procedura ed alla lettera delle leggi, era nell'indole del diritto
pretorio di giungere allo stesso risultato per via più spedita, e non di
altro poteva farsi colpa a Verre.
Verre e il diritto successorio de' patroni.

Che dire del caso di M. Ottavio Ligure? La condotta di Verre a quel

proposito trova la sua spiegazione e la sua giustificazione nelle
vicende legislative del diritto ereditario de' patroni verso i liberti. Quel
diritto, il più importante, si può dire, di tutti quelli competenti a'
patroni, dopo la introduzione della più ampia libertà di testare, di cui,
come ogni altro cittadino, si avvalevano i liberti, finiva per essere
illusoria. L'equità pretoria, che anche in questo caso interveniva per
sovvenire alla deficienza della legge, a questa iniquitas anzi, dice
Gaio; per mezzo della bonorum possessio, assicurava il diritto del
patrono, garentendogli, in mancanza di figli naturali la metà de' beni
del liberto [391]. La regola seguita da Verre fa parte di tutto questo
indirizzo della giurisprudenza pretoria, che regolò questo argomento,
specialmente sino alle leggi introdotte sotto Augusto. Nè potea
costituire un ostacolo il possesso dell'eredità già ottenuto da M.
Ottavio sotto C. Sacerdote, sia perchè la bonorum possessio,
specialmente nel suo periodo più antico, ebbe un carattere
temporaneo e mirò a costituire uno stato di fatto; sia perchè la
figliuola del patrono di C. Sulpicio Olympo, che si faceva ora a
domandare da M. Ottavio la sesta parte dell'eredità, non potea
essere stata pregiudicata da quel fatto, cui era rimasta estranea, e
poteva, da varî punti di vista, ripetere da M. Ottavio, successore di
C. Sulpicio, tutto ciò che le toccava.
L'altro tratto dell'editto [392] riguardante la validità del testamento e la
trasmissione dell'eredità, consente l'esame anche meno, se si
considera che in un punto è d'incerta lezione [393].
La giustizia di Verre.
Guardando specialmente a' casi precedenti, appare quanto fosse
esagerato ed anche ingiusto il biasimo di Cicerone; e, messo invece
l'editto in rapporto con tutta l'evoluzione della coscienza giuridica
romana e delle sue forme, non appare che Verre si fosse veramente
allontanato dall'una e dalle altre. Nè depone veramente contro di lui
il fatto che alcuni di quei precetti da esso introdotti nell'editto urbano
scomparvero dal provinciale [394], giacchè e l'esperienza fatta e le
diverse condizioni di vita potettero suggerire il mutamento.
Ciò intanto non vuol punto dire che Verre fosse il modello de' giudici
e che, nel campo pratico specialmente, la giustizia trovasse ne' suoi
pronunziati la migliore espressione.
Uomo di partito, eletto co' voti e con l'appoggio di un partito contro di
un altro, egli non trovava modo di scordarsene nell'amministrare la
giustizia. A lui, campione della parte aristocratica, quei liberti, que'
plebei e tutti in fine gli avversarî doveano parere gente da potersi
impunemente mettere fuori della legge, conculcare, taglieggiare
anche all'occasione. I nomi di quelli che si dicono lesi da lui durante
la sua pretura, Annio [395], Junio [396], Ottavio fors'anche, sono nomi
di plebei, e plebei erano pure con poche eccezioni i Minucii, che
aveano dati già tribuni alla plebe [397]. Trebonio era un cavaliere ed
era un proscritto. Pare che la sua pretura ebbe questo carattere
prevalentemente partigiano, tanto che L. Pisone [398] suo collega
nella pretura dovette più volte colla sua interposizione impedire
l'esecuzione de' suoi atti. Q. Opimio tribuno della plebe, menato in
giudizio innanzi a Verre, o che, nella gestione del suo officio, avesse
semplicemente detto, come vuole Cicerone, qualche cosa contro il
volere di qualche nobile, o che davvero avesse interposto il suo veto
contro la legge Cornelia; dopo una causa di tre ore semplicemente,
ne uscì privo de' suoi beni, di ogni avere, di ogni grado [399].
Ma non soltanto per passione politica pare che traviasse Verre: l'oro
che tutto poteva e tutto faceva, a' suoi tempi come o un po' più che
in certi altri, riesciva a tirarsi dietro a sghimbescio la sua giustizia.
Almeno, salvo il valore delle loro testimonianze, erano in parecchi ad
attestarlo in giudizio, anche per questo periodo [400].