Make and enjoy a truly satisfying cup of tea

Wouter Gryson
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 Who is This Book For?
Like many of you, my first taste of tea was bitter, lacking in flavour and in aroma.
Why? Because my mother, who brewed me that first cup, didn’t understand how to
prepare such a delicate and subtle product. But I could tell there was more to tea, and
despite a lacking cup from time to time, I persisted.

Over the years that followed, I made it my mission to learn how to brew the perfect
cup. I visited Japanese tea shops, sat with elderly European tea enthusiasts, stood on
the Chinese slopes where teas were grown, and I listened. I learned. And now I want
to share that knowledge with you.

You’ll start with just what I started with - questions. You’ll wonder how those couple
of leaves with hot water added to them, can become such a refreshing delicious
drink (not to mention one that’s healthy, energizing and calorie free.) You’ll learn
the answers to these questions, to what exactly tea is, and to how you can make the
perfect cup.

Together, we’ll travel into lush tea fields and follow the leaves’ journey: from being
picked, right through to landing in someone’s teapot somewhere in the world. We’ll
discover what makes each tea type unique, and how they should look, smell and
taste. We’ll discover the secret of rare teas, and start to unravel the mysteries of just
how there can be so many flavours in seemingly simple leaves.

Finally, we’ll realise we don’t only need to study the present to understand tea, but
also the past. We’ll go deeper into the rabbit hole. Travelling back into history, and
discovering the journey of tea from thousands of years ago until now. Like the old
saying goes “You have to know the past to understand the present.”

We’ll start with Ancient China, where the most revered teas were grown and guarded
for the exclusive enjoyment of the Emperor’s family. Then our journey will take us
to meet with Zen Buddhists in Japan, emigrants in Taiwan and Englishmen in India
and Ceylon (which is now of course Sri Lanka.) Finally, hopefully, we’ll return to the
present as you make your own history with tea, each time you have a cup.

That’s one of the reasons I’m sharing my passion for tea with you. My own history. My
own stories. And the stories other tea aficionados have shared with me along the way.

An older man started to smile after I poured out a cup of roasted tie guan yin; “Ah yes,
I remember this tea, I used to have it with my grandpa back in Taiwan,” he turned silent
for a bit, although it felt like the sun was still shining on his face. We sat there for a bit

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in a comfortable silence, and I understood that the simple act of sharing a cup had let
me share in a moment from this man’s life.

For me this is the final step - not only knowing about tea but letting the history and
context of tea enrich your life as well.

Tea has certainly enriched my life, as for the last five years I have had the pleasure of
running my small online tea boutique, Valley of Tea.

To celebrate those five years, I have written down the essence of what I have learned
so far. But as these things go the more you learn, and the more you see, the more you
realise you need to learn, and the more you realise you want to see.

I’m always looking to hear more about other people’s experiences with teas of
all types, whether it’s a positive story of sipping a rare tea on a warm summer’s
afternoon, or a story about the time you suffered through the worst cup of stale tea
you’ve ever experienced. I’d love to hear your stories, good or bad, and I invite you all
to share them with me by emailing [email protected].

But for now, please enjoy this book. It’s for everyone who’s interested in tea, who longs
for a relaxing cup, or who has memories entwined with these amazing leaves.

So for now, let’s raise our cups towards the next five years. I hope you’ll join me on
this adventure.

Wouter

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 Contents
The Art of Drinking Tea 6

What is Tea? 10

How to Make Tea 13

Water, The Essence of Tea 15

Temperature in Tea Making 16

Gongfu or Western Brewing 17

Pre-washing 20

Which Teapot Does What 21

Types of Teapot 22
Famous Styles 24

Caffeine in Tea 26

Types of Tea 27
White Tea 29
Green Tea 30
Yellow Tea 31
Oolong Tea 32
Black Tea 34
Pu-erh Tea 35
Sheng Pu-erh 35
Shou Pu-erh 36

Tea Storage 37

Chinese Tea - A Poem 39

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China - The Ultimate Tea Country 40
The History of Chinese Tea 41
China’s Legendary Tea Growing Regions 43
China’s Most Famous Teas 44

Taiwan - The Beauty of Tea 66

The History of Taiwanese Tea 67
Taiwanese Tea Culture in the 21st Century 67
Taiwan’s Famous Tea Regions 69
Taiwan’s Famous Teas 70

Japan - The Art of Tea 80

The History of Japanese Tea 81
The Japanese Way of Tea 82
Japan’s Famous Tea Regions 83
Japan’s Famous Teas 84

India and Nepal - The Legend of Chai 90

The History of Indian Tea 91
The Legend of Chai 92
Modern Indian Tea Production 93
India and Nepal’s Famous Tea Regions 94
India’s Famous Teas 96

Tea In Sri Lanka 102

The Main Tea Producing Provinces 104

How to Buy Tea 106

Tea Community - How to Contact Me 109

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The Art of Drinking Tea

The experience of drinking tea is at once both simple and complex. It is an experience which encompasses
much more than only our taste buds and sense of smell. It is influenced through what we see, the context of the
location, and our past experiences. The flavour and the smell play into this, especially as smell can help you to
vividly recall and relive old memories, but they are only one part of the art of drinking tea,

If you’re trying to evaluate or just fully experience a tea, you need to pay close attention to every single part of
the experience.

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Vision and Hearing Are you in a authentic tea room in Kyoko, or one of
the best, most sophisticated tea houses of Paris?
The first things that influence our tea-drinking
experiences are our eyes and our ears. The look of
Are your surroundings serene, quiet and calm? Or are
a tea will influence our opinion - does this tea look
you surrounded by the hustle and noise of a busy cafe,
like it’s of a high quality? Are there lots of buds of a
or the rumbling of an engine as you sip from a mug on
uniform shape? Are these leaves the right colour?
your way to your next appointment?
Once we begin to brew and pour, our eyes and ears
All of these sights, these sounds, and more will
continue to influence our experience. What colour is
greatly influence the taste of your tea and the
the brewed liquid tea? Is it cloudy or clear? How does
experience you have. They add to, or take from, or
it pour and roll out into the cup? Is it thick or not?
otherwise subtly influence your thoughts and feelings
A thicker liquid is usually a sign of a good tea, as it
reflecting in the tea.
usually has more of the good stuff in it. Our ears also
play a part. The sound of liquid pouring into a cup
can give an indication of whether the tea is the right Taking the steps to ensure a calm, welcoming
temperature, as we can hear the difference between a environment can help you to unlock all of the taste
hot and cold liquid being poured. and aroma of a good tea.

But our experience isn’t limited to the tea - your This is why professional tasters use the exact same
surroundings are very important as well. tasting cups when testing a new tea. Each tea is
brewed in the same way, served in the same way,
and delivered in a random order, ensuring that
How beautiful is the teacup?
no external factors can negatively affect their
experience.
How does the room you are in look?
While you can probably never eliminate all negative
Have you enjoyed quality tea in such a room before?
factors, you’ll find that a comfortable seat, a quiet
Have you sipped from such a teacup?
room and your favourite cup will all help you to enjoy
your tea that much more.
Or is this all new, and exciting, and different?

Is the person serving the tea dressed elegantly or

casually?

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Feeling Here is where the fullness of a tea (or the lack thereof)
comes into play, and the song of the tea becomes
With sight and sound covered, you can be forgiven
clear. Usually it has one main chorus or aroma with
that we’ll move on to tasting and smelling the tea.
subtle notes coming into play now and then. The good
We could, but one more sense needs to be taken into
teas have multiple notes or a rich aroma, but the very
account first. The sense of touch, of feel.
good ones have layers of flavours where one by one a
different flavour appears on your palate, leading to an
That’s right, part of the art of tea drinking is touching
incredible, deep experience.
the leaves you are about to brew.
Often a fine tea reminds me of rich fruit or grassy
In China, they always feel the tea leaves before
vegetables, but the very best always remind me of
brewing. You should do the same, asking how
some events of the past.
flexible or rigid they are - as younger teas are often
much softer and more pliable. You’ll also need to
After that, feel the minerality on the tongue, the
feel whether the leaves are dry, or whether they still
soothing effect on the throat, and the lasting
contain the amount of moisture you’d expect for a
sweetness in the mouth. This is often called Hui Gan
certain type of tea? And so on and forth, until you’re
or the rich aftertaste of a tea. A tea rich in Hui gan
happy that the tea you have chosen feels right..
will have a long period of time after your cup is empty
where you still feel a part of the flavour on the tongue,
Then, after brewing, you should take the cup in your
or the soft sweet coating of the throat.
hands and feel the heath and the quality of the cup,
the warmth of the tea contained within. Then, there’s
If you experience these things, it a sure sign of a
one last time to feel the tea as you take that first sip
quality tea.
Once the liquid is on your lips you will know the
temperature exactly. Make sure it is not too hot
before you continue! Then, slowly, roll the tea on your
tongue, and feel how thick the liquid is how it spreads
out through your mouth.

Now it’s time for the two most important senses in

the art of tea drinking.

Smell and Taste

Tasting a fine tea isn’t just down to your tongue and
your tastebuds. Your sense of smell has just as much
- if not more - of an impact on your enjoyment. This is
the reason that food tastes different, or bland, when
you have a cold.

So before you taste the tea make sure to fully embrace

the fragrance of it, preparing yourself for what is to
come. Inhale deeply and enjoy the rich aroma. Focus
on the scents - do they remind you of herbs? Fruits?
Perhaps even rich woodsmoke?

Then put the cup on your lips and taste

Red Jade Ruby Taiwan Black Tea

Roll the liquid over your tongue multiple times.

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How does it make you feel - Memories Like all art, tea drinking is as simple or complex as
you’d like to make it. But by following these simple
Taste and emotion are closely connected. That’s why
guidelines, you’ll enjoy an experience which goes
the art of tea drinking is prized across the world.
beyond the cup.
As your mom’s spaghetti will always be better than
any other, the same thing happens with tea. If we are
trying to taste the tea, we must remember this, and
focus on the taste itself without being influenced by
the positive emotions from our past. Otherwise, we
should only compare similar teas so that each one
is made more delicious by the same memory and
feelings.

Of course, if you aren’t trying to do a blind taste test,

you can embrace the emotional resonance of each
tea. This is one of the reasons tea is so personal. It is
beyond what we can smell and how it tastes.

Tea takes us back to friends, or family. Maybe that

certain vacation or that one time in London?

And if it reminds us of all these experiences, how can

we discuss something as simple as how the tea itself
tastes?

What can you do to get the most out of

your session?
Let us say you just want to relax after a busy day and
have a nice cup of tea.

Which simple steps should you take?

• Admire the tea leaves feel and smell them

• Then smell the liquid itself, and get a good sense

of what this tea is about.

• Take a small sip, and try to get a good bit of air

with it

• Slowly roll the liquid across the tongue and focus

on the flavours coming through

• Repeat and feel what the effect on your body is,

even after your session.

Tie Guan Yin Oolong Supreme

9
 Jasmine Green Tea From China

What is Tea?
Let’s get something clear. Tea is a very specific type of The three main varieties are:
plant. All of the teas we cover in this book, whether
that’s white tea, green tea, oolong tea, black tea or • Camellia sinensis var assamica
a dark tea come from the very same plant; camellia
sinensis. • Camellia sinensis var sinensis

Nettle, chamomile, rooibos, lime blossom and so forth • Camellia sinensis var cambodienis.
are amazing products that are sometimes sold as or
called tea, but none of these are true tea. Instead, it’s As you may have guessed from the names, these are
best to think of these as infusions commonly (but teas originally found in the Assam region of India (var
incorrectly) called herbal teas. As this book is focused assamica), China (var sinensis) and Cambodia (var
on true teas we won’t mention these admittedly tasty cambodienis).
and refreshing drinks again.
Thanks to thousands of years of development,
But back to true tea, through nature or the efforts of mankind, there are
now hundreds of hybrids formed by combining these
The tea plant, camellia sinensis, has a number of sub- tea plants, each with its own character and special
types, which growers farm to create various styles, characteristics.
types and flavours of tea.
Camellia sinensis var sinensis is smaller and
grows slower than Camellia sinensis var assamica

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 Thanks to thousands of years of development,
through nature or the efforts of mankind, there are
now hundreds of hybrids formed by combining these
tea plants, each with its own character and special
characteristics.

but the camellia sinensis plant can handle lower The first leaves which grow after that dormant period
temperatures then the assamica variety. For most are usually the best and most prized, since the plant
of the true great teas that have been so prized had so much time to pull these aroma and flavour
throughout history, camelia sinensis is used. components from the ground.

Tea plants can grow into trees up to 10-15m in height, This is the reason the first leaves, first harvest or first
but those grown for commercial picking are usually flush is so highly sought after. These leaves contain all
trimmed at about hip size so they can easily be picked the nutrients and flavour compounds the plant stored
by hand. in the cold period.

In most locations, for the best tea one needs a The unopened, very early, very small leaves are called
dormant (cold) period of weather, plenty of rain, and buds, and these often contain white hairs.
preferably high altitude - such as those found in the
mountains of major tea growing regions. The slower Those buds are the richest in aromatics of all leaves.
the tea plant grows, the more time it has to add But some would say they don’t have the body of an
aroma and flavour components from the soil into the older, more mature tea leaf.
tea leaves.

Silver Needle - Pure bud picking standard Bi Luo Chun - 1 Bud 1 Leaf picking standard Mao Feng - 1 Bud 2 Leaf picking standard

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This balance between aroma and flavour is reflected While there are hundreds of hybrid tea plants and
in picking standards, which determine the leaves that thousands of tea varieties, it is not the case that a
are picked and used in teas. single hybrid tea plant is used for each tea type or
even each famous tea. In theory it could, but to create
Most good teas are picked with one bud and two the very best of teas each famous tea blend contains
opened leaves, for a great balance of aroma and body. a number of hybrids that span the crown in order to
Some are also picked with one bud and one leaf for a provide variety, depth and ultimately a flavorful tea
more aromatic tea, and some very exclusive teas are fit for an Emperor.
picked with only buds to give an incredibly delicate,
aromatic tea. Of course some teas, generally those of
lower quality, contain more leaves, perhaps with one
bud and three leaves, or one bud and four leaves and
so forth.

1 bud picking style - Keemun Xin Ya and Jin Jun Mei 1 bud 2 leaves style - Taiping Houkui and Golden Monkey

1 bud and 3 or more leaves style - High Mountain Oolong, Roasted Tie Guan Yin

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How to Make Tea
When you carefully open a package of tea, you’ll Now comes the most important ingredient in the
enjoy the first scent of the tea’s aroma. You’re the first perfect cup of tea. Time. Pour your hot water into the
person to smell this tea since the experts sealed it pot and leave the tea to steep for a few minutes. As
for shipping, so make sure you enjoy the experience. you leave the tea to infuse, all of the leaves’ flavours
Inhale deeply and savour the unmistakable scent of and aromas will gently spread into the hot water,
tea leaves. creating a wonderful liquor.

Now, it’s time to enjoy that perfect first cup. I take this time to find the perfect spot – a
comfortable armchair looking out over the garden is
To make the perfect cup, you will need a teapot and my favourite, but you’ll have a place in mind. Then, I
some hot water. Obviously, you’ll also want your put on my favourite music and return to the pot.
favourite cup!
After a few minutes, you’ll need to remove the leaves
First, you need to heat the water to between 70 and to prevent your tea becoming too astringent or
90 degrees (I’ve mentioned the exact temperature on strong. Don’t throw these away! You can re-steep
every Valley of Tea package for you). Too hot, and you these leaves to enjoy a slightly different flavour later
will damage the tea’s delicate aromas. Too cool, and in the day.
you won’t get enough flavour from the leaves. I prefer
to use mineral water for my tea, as this lets the fine Now, slowly pour the tea into your cup.
aromas come through.
Carefully carry your cup to your chosen spot. Make
While the water is heating, you should usually add yourself comfortable. Enjoy the heady aroma, and
a little over a teaspoon of tea leaves per cup to your then take that first sip.
infuser and place this in your teapot. This is a matter
of personal taste, and you’ll find the perfect ratio for As your cares and worries melt away, make sure
your palate after a few cups. (Again, my suggestion is you savour this moment. And enjoy the rest of your
on the packaging.) perfect cup of tea.

Sencha Green Tea Japan

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These are the basics of tea making, as Zen Buddhist If I was also brewing for a friend, I could also use a
Sen No Rikyu says 500ml teapot with 4g of tea steeped at 80 degrees for
two minutes.
This is how you make tea
You heat the water Perhaps a 500ml teapot with 2g of tea steeped at
You make the tea then, you drink it. 80 degrees for four minutes would create a similar
There is nothing else. flavour. Or perhaps a 50ml teapot with 2g of tea
steeped at 80 degrees for 20 seconds, would create
Whether you have your own ritual for making tea, or something subtle, but still great.
as Sen No Rikyu says, you “just heat water, make tea,
and drink it”, there are a couple of principles guiding It’s about balance, and this is something you need to
you into your own personal ritual of tea making. discover for yourself.

The most important things you need to remember are Basically:

these:
• The hotter the water, the faster and deeper the
“Water is the mother of tea. A teapot its father. And fire extraction of flavour.
the teacher.”
• The longer the time, the deeper the extraction.
Beside great tea leaves and the right water quality, it’s
the teapot and heat which forges your perfect cup of • The more tea, the deeper the extraction.
tea.
Bearing this in mind, you can experiment to find
Usually it works like this, for a certain tea depending the right balance for each tea according to your own
on the type, quality and quantity, adjusted to the tastes.
preference of you and your guests, you need a
combination of teapot, temperature, time and water We’ll go into these factors one by one in the following
chapters.
For example, let’s look at how to make a perfect cup of
Dragon Well green tea.

I usually make this tea in a 250ml teapot with 250ml

low mineral water heated to 80 degrees. To this, I add
2g of tea and steep for two minutes.

Freshly picked tea leaves

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Water, The Essence of Tea
Water is as essential to tea as it is to life. Firstly, invest in an effective water filter. Filtered
tap water is similar in quality to the spring water
It should come as no surprise that this subject has
mentioned above, and a high quality filter will work
come up in heated discussions for centuries. I have
for a number of years. Filtered tap water is perfect
met farmers living next door to each other whose
for Japanese teas, and good for all manner of other
families have been making a certain type of tea for
varieties.
centuries, who don’t agree on the water to use for
their tea.
Secondly, you can use a reverse osmosis filter. Some
people claim this is an improvement over spring
I think knowing the right water for your tea is more
water, while others claim it removes subtle flavours
about knowing yourself, drawing upon your own
from the water itself. In our experience, this kind of
personal experience than it is a case of there being
water makes a delightful cup, and we would highly
only one route to perfection. But this doesn’t mean
recommend seeking out a reverse osmosis filter.
there are not some core principles. Let’s look for:
Thirdly, you can learn to love the robust, full flavours
The Perfect Water imparted by water which is high in minerals. While
According to the Chinese tea scholar Lu Yu, the we cannot recommend this for subtle green or white
perfect water is hard to find. Writing over 1,000 years teas, we can see that a mineral water can provide a
ago in his book “The Classic of Tea” Lu Yu explained strong black or oolong tea with another dimension
that to brew the perfect tea, you need to use of flavour.
mountain water from stony lakes, calm water from
the middle of a slow-flowing stream, or the white There is a school of thought that I love which says that
water of a milky spring to brew the perfect cup. the only proper way to drink a tea is with water taken
from where the tea grew up. Water of the area where
Unfortunately, a modern home is unlikely to have a the tea plant grew. And on the few times when I had
tap dedicated to stony lake water. But that doesn’t the opportunity to do this, it was very nice indeed. I
mean you should abandon hope. guess i’ll just have to keep on testing this theory out
until I’m very sure, but that will take some time and
What If You Can’t Find a Stony Lake? lots of travel!

Let’s forget about finding the perfect water for a But if you ever brew a cup and think your tea is dull
moment, and look for an alternative. or tasteless, maybe the first question to ask should be
“how good is my water?”
The closest commonly available alternative to water
from a mountain lake is clear bottled spring water.
As this water is low in minerals, it imparts very little
character to the tea, allowing the leaves to provide all
of the flavour and aroma. This is especially important
for a subtle tea such as a Japanese green tea, but all
teas can benefit.

However, bottled water can be expensive, and many

of us are worried about the waste created by plastic
bottles. If you are one of those people, you have two
options.
Hangzhou Westlake the birthplace of long jing tea

15
Temperature in Tea Making
Fire is the Teacher How to get the right temperature for
Please note: all temperatures in this book are in Celcius. your tea
I usually use a electric kettle with temperature
When we send a package from Valley of Tea to one of selection, to easily make the tea at the right
our customers, we always provide a recommended temperature. If you do this, make sure to check the
temperature for a tea to be steeped at. Water which is temperature with a thermometer as a lot of these
too hot can scald or stew the tea, harming the flavour. kettles are not very accurate - as I have experienced.

It really depends on the way the tea was processed, You can also use a thermometer or use your senses
but as a starting point we tend to work the following to evaluate the tea. Boil the water and then add some
temperatures as a benchmark: cool water (before pouring it on your tea leaves) until
you have the desired temperature.
• 60 degrees - Gyokuro
A technique commonly used in Japan is transferring
• 70-80 degrees - Other green tea boiling (100c) water into other containers, as each
container should lower the water temperature about
• 90 degrees - Green and medium oxidized oolong 10 degrees.
teas, black tea and white tea
In China on the other hand, one often uses their
• 100 degrees - Pu-erh and dark or heavy oxidized senses to determine which temperature the water is.
oolong teas.
If the tea is not moving at all it probably about 75
But there’s something else to consider degrees, if it’s letting out a bit of steam silently it’s
about 80 degrees, 85 if there are a lot of air bubbles, or
Boiling water removes oxygen. This oxygen is
90 if it starting to bubble a bit. And it is likely close to
necessary to create flavour and aroma, so by boiling
100 degrees when it’s an aggressive full on boil.
the water you are harming your chances of brewing
the perfect cup.
I quite like the method, as part of the tea-making
experience.
If you choose the right water for your tea, heat it to
the correct temperature and steep it for the right
Make sure to always preheat the teapot before
amount of time, then the perfect cup will be yours
adding the water, so your carefully measured water
to enjoy.
temperature doesn’t drop the moment it goes into
the pot.
Steep your tea multiple times
If, like me, you prefer making tea multiple times you
should usually slightly increase the temperature
in order to get the same full-flavoured cup for your
second, third fourth… brewing.

But for Japanese and Chinese green teas, you should

actually use a slightly lower temperature. This is
because the leaves have ‘opened up’ after the first
brewing and are very ready to give out all of their
flavour.

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Gongfu or Western Brewing
If you are amongst tea experts, sooner rather than later, “gongfu brewing” is something you’ll either see or
hear mentioned.

Put simply, there are two ways of brewing your tea. You can either use a small amount of tea leaves and let
them steep for a long time (minutes). Or you can use a large amount of tea leaves and let it infuse for a short
time (seconds).

The second method - lots of leaves, little time - is gongfu brewing. The first method doesn’t have a name, but as
it tends to be the way we brew tea here in the western world, we’ll call it western brewing.

Gong fu-style brewing Western-style brewing

What happens when you brew tea?

Essentially, when you steep tea in hot water, the water pulls out minerals, aromatics and so forth from the tea
leaves, but some parts are more easily pulled out then others. In other words, the compounds extracted in the
first minute of brewing are different to those extracted in the second minute.

Gongfu brewing allows us to have layers of steeping in a single pot. By pouring after just 20 seconds or less, we
extract flavours which are different to those which develop after a longer steeping process. As you add more
water for later cups, these flavours develop, leading to a completely different taste profile at the beginning of a
session when compared to the end of it.

This method provides an especially great experience with very complex teas, like for example high oxidation
oolong or aged pu-erh teas.

This is because the full flavour profile with a three minute steep might be completely overpowering but
brewing layer by layer is a great step by step experience.

Let’s slowly discuss a sample tea session using each method. All the numbers provided are just an example and
should be adjusted for the tea you choose and your personal preferences.

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Gongfu brewing
1. Put 6g of tea leaves on a small platter and take
a moment for you and your guests to enjoy the
aroma, colour and form of the tea leaves.

2. Heat water and pour it into the empty, 100ml

gaiwan teapot, glass pitcher and teacups.

3. Remove the water from the pot, pitcher and

cups. They are now preheated and won’t reduce
the temperature of the water you’ll put in.

4. Heat mineral or filtered water to the right

temperature for your tea.

5. Slowly drop the tea leaves into the dry gaiwan,

and then pour the water until you reach the
brim, add the lid and enjoy the aroma.

6. After 15 seconds pour the liquid into the pitcher,

making sure to catch each drop.

7. Use the pitcher to supply all your guests and

yourself with a cup of tea, and then add slightly
hotter water to the gaiwan when you are all
ready for another cup. Large Leaf Pu-erh

8. After 20 seconds pour it off into the pitcher, and

supply your guests with a second cup.

9. Add slightly hotter water to you’re gaiwan, and

after 25 seconds pour it off into the pitcher and
supply your guests with a third cup. Then a
fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth….

10. Each infusion will give a separate experience

curated by none other than yourself, and
presented to your guests a cup at a time.

Gong fu brewing

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Western Brewing
1. Put 2g of tea leaves on a small platter and allow
a few moments for you and your guests enjoy the
aroma, colour and form of the tea leaves.

2. Heat water and pour it into the empty 250ml glass

teapot and teacups.

3. Remove the water from the pot and cups. They are
now preheated and won’t reduce the temperature
of the water you’ll put in.

4. Heat mineral or filtered water to the right

temperature for your tea.

5. Slowly drop the tea leaves into the glass teapot,

and then pour the water until the brim, add the
lid and enjoy the aroma.

6. After 2-5 minutes pour the liquid into the cups,

making sure to catch each drop.

7. Enjoy the tea and brew it again using the same

method 2-3 times. Make sure to remove all water
from the tea leaves between sessions. Darjeeling Oolong Tea

Which is best?
There is heated debate between tea lovers about just
which method is best.

While a lot of experts would argue that gong fu is

always better, I think it really depends on the tea and
of course on your personal preference.

As a rule of thumb, green teas or green oolong teas

are slightly more suited for Western style brewing
while more complex dark oolong teas and sheng pu-
erh teas are more suited for gong fu brewing.

But you can go either way, and really you should.

Try everything, hold nothing back.

19
Pre-washing
Many tea drinkers swear by washing the tea leaves As you can see, washing tea isn’t necessarily about
before brewing, in a process which is sometimes hygiene. In essence, you are making the tea leaves
known as called “awakening the tea”. ready for brewing and infusion, ensuring that the tea
will give only the very best of what there is to offer.
It may sound like a deep, complex ritual, but There is quite a bit of debate on which teas are better
“awakening the tea” is actually a very quick and or worse after a short washing, but like in anything
simple process. Before you’re first brew you rinse the in the world of tea, it’s for you to decide for yourself.
tea leaves with a bit of near boiling water that you Often the discussion boils down to something as
pour away and discard 1-2 seconds later. Of course simple as, whether you would like a pure flavour or a
you only discard the water, not the leaves! richer yet cloudier brew.

There are many reasons people choose to pre-wash While pre-washing is always a matter of personal
their tea, but the main advantages to this process: taste, I believe that the following teas can all benefit
from a short, sharp rinse in nearly boiling water.
1. Washing cleans the tea leaves, which is useful
in cases where you’re not 100 percent sure of the • White tea (to remove early spring hairs)
quality of the tea you’re about to brew.
• Pearls and pellet style teas (to start the unfolding
2. Washing removes the little white hairs which process)
you’ll find on unopened early high quality teas
(mostly white tea). While this doesn’t affect • Aged oolong teas or pu-erh teas (to soften leaves
flavour, it does prevent the hairs from finding which have been toughened by the aging process)
their way into your cup.

3. Washing starts to unfold rolled up pearls or

pellets of tea, making them ready to infuse the
water which you add during steeping.

4. Washing softens the often tough leaves of aged

teas, which makes it easier for them to infuse in
your steeping water.

Yunnan Black Pearl. Pre-washing will unfold these pearls.

20
Which Teapot Does What
“Water is the mother of tea. A teapot its father.
And fire the teacher.”
If you truly want to taste the perfect cup of tea, you Infusers and Strainers
need to start with the perfect teapot. It’s no use
The teapot must also strain the tea leaves and
dropping leaves into a mug – your tea needs room
keep them out of your cup. A separate basket-style
to breathe, to unfurl and to release a whole host of
strainer allows you to prevent over-steeping, but we
delicate aromas.
recommend a pot with a lot of room for the tea leaves
as it gives the tea leaves more room to unfurl.
The right teapot allows even pearl and bead teas such
as jasmine tea pearls and tie guan yin oolong tea to
If you do choose a separate infuser for your teapot or
create wonderfully delicate brews, even over multiple
mug, always use the largest one that fits.
infusions.

So what makes the right teapot?

Style
This won’t affect the tea, but it will affect your mood. A
beautiful, stylish teapot will bring a smile to your face
even before you add the first leaf.

Heat
A teapot must retain heat at a consistent temperature
during the infusion. A thicker teapot will keep the
water at a consistent temperature, although you will
need to preheat the pot to ensure it doesn’t absorb the
heat and cool the water.

Handling
The right teapot also needs to handle well. It must be
easy to lift, and it should pour tea in a steady stream. A
teapot which retains water between infusions can ruin
the flavour of a tea, while a pot which spills everywhere
can easily ruin your mood - and your table.

A classic Jixing teapot

21
Types of Teapot
Not all teapots are created equal. While all teapots must infuse the leaves, retain heat and handle well, there
are a variety of pots available in a range of materials, all of which need to be used differently to ensure the
perfect cup:

Glass Teapots
Glass teapots are beautiful, and there’s something
relaxing about watching the leaves unfurl and steep.
But glass doesn’t hold heat well, meaning that the
water often cools too quickly to make the perfect
brew. Thicker glass and more (or slightly hotter) water
can offset this, allowing you to sit back and watch
the show.

A glass teapot as part of the Japanese Tea Gift Set

Ceramic Teapots
A ceramic teapot will absorb large amounts of heat and radiate it out. That means that it’s crucial that you
preheat your pot. Filling it with hot water, leaving the pot to heat up, before discarding this warming water
and adding tea and fresh water allows you to keep the water hot enough to brew that perfect cup.

A ceramic teapot

22
Metal Teapots Stoneware, Clay and Yixing Teapots
Metal pots such as Japanese teapots were used to These clay and stone pots are highly sought after
boil water, not brew tea, and as such they absorb and by tea connoisseurs, and not just because they
radiate lots of heat. However, if you find a metal teapot look beautiful. They hold heat very well and keep
with an intact coating and you take care to preheat it consistent, which allows water of a higher
it as you would a ceramic teapot, you will still be able temperature than can be easily reached using
to enjoy a perfect cup of tea. This is especially true for porcelain, making it perfect for darker oolongs,
darker teas that don’t mind a higher temperature. black and pu-erh teas. These teapots are available in
a range of styles and can vary significantly in price
and in quality. So if you do want a clay or stone pot,
I would recommend that you look for a reliable,
knowledgeable supplier.

A classic Japanese metal teapot A stone teapot

Porcelain
If you were to imagine a teapot, the chances are that you’d think of a delicate fine bone china porcelain pot
with matching cups. And you’d be right to do so. A porcelain pot is perfect for tea. It feels great to touch and
to put to your lips, and porcelain doesn’t absorb or radiate too much heat. No matter what tea you prefer, you
won’t go wrong with a porcelain pot. It’s also very good for teas which prefer a lower temperature.

23
Famous Styles
Jixing
These teapots come from the Chinese county of Jixing
in the Jiangxi province.

Here they have been made since the Han Dynasty

(206-220 BC), and to this day they are famed for their
craftsmanship and the quality of the clay used in
their production.

The materials used to make these pots allow oxygen

to seep through their pores and slowly absorb the
aroma of the teas which you brew. This results in
aromatic, flavourful brews with a unique character.
That’s why in China these teapots are often called
‘memory teapots’ as they ‘remember’ past infusions.

If you do invest in a Yixing teapot, make sure you

use it for only one style of tea. Otherwise the aromas
retained by the clay will clash, resulting in a poor cup
of tea. For example have one pot for ripened pu-erh,
one for raw pu-erh and one for high oxidation
oolong tea.

You should also bear in mind that, these pots can be

expensive – with authentic ones costing at the very
least 250 Euros – because they are made by hand
from only the best clay.

Kyusu
Japan’s favourite teapot is easily recognised by its
lateral handle, which the Japanese love for its easiness
in extracting each drop of liquid from the teapot.

Designed specifically for Japanese teas, a Kyusu pot

has a fine mesh basket that allows the tea a lot of
space to unfold.

Kyusu pots are traditionally made using porcelain,

although recently manufacturers have begun to
create these teapots using sandstone or even glass.
However, if you were to ask me for a recommendation,
I’d always say that you should choose the finest
possible porcelain pot.

24
Gaiwan
The simple ‘cup with a lid’ style pot is the traditional
teapot from China. Sometimes, Gaiwan pots are
used to drink from as well as to brew in, making
it the most versatile pot on this list. It reveals the
truth about any tea, as it doesn’t influence the taste
of the tea in the same way as other teapots. While a
Gaiwan is great for retaining heat, it sometimes can’t
keep water hot enough for darker teas - which is why
purists tend to prefer a Yixing pot for a dark brew.
However, I believe it’s the number one teapot you
should get if you are serious about tea. You can find
Gaiwan pots of nearly any price, and even the highest
quality thin porcelain pots are not too expensive.

What Teapot Do I Recommend?

I always recommend that tea connoisseurs such as my Valley of Tea customers invest in a quality porcelain
pot. They are perfect for use with any tea, allowing you to discover a whole world of flavour and aroma.

And if you find yourself falling in love with pu-erh black or oolong teas, then you can consider investing in a
Yixing teapot. It’ll certainly add a new depth of flavour to your perfect cups!

25
Caffeine in Tea
In this chapter, we’ll look at one of the chemicals How much caffeine in is tea?
found in tea. Caffeine. And I’ll pay special attention to
A persistent myth suggests that tea has a much higher
explaining some of the myths surrounding the caffeine
caffeine content than coffee. But like most myths, it’s
content of tea.
not really based on fact.
As with the rest of this book, I will only write about tea
It’s hard to give a definitive answer, as each tea
from the camellia sinensis plant and its hybrids. Most
contains a differing amount of caffeine depending on
other ‘teas’ that don’t come from the camellia sinensis,
the type of plant, the age and the style, but as a rule of
like for example rooibos, peppermint or calendula,
thumb I’d say that a cup of tea contains around half as
naturally don’t contain caffeine, with Yerba Mate being
much caffeine as a cup of coffee.
perhaps the most famous exception.
But really, caffeine content differs so much from tea to
But before we begin, I’d like to explain a little more
tea that it’s impossible to give a short, correct answer.
about exactly what caffeine is, and how it affects
your body.
Does the type of tea (Green, white, black
Caffeine or Theine or oolong) matter?
Caffeine was first discovered in 1833 and was called One widespread tea myth suggests that white teas
theine at that time. Later on, scientists discovered that contain no caffeine, while another suggests that black
the chemical makeup of caffeine and theine is actually tea contains much more caffeine than green tea. Both
the same, that both substances were actually the same are wrong.
odorless, bitter, stimulating and easily dissolvable
substance. Over time, the name caffeine stuck and the A study published in 2005 in the Journal of Food
name theine fell out of use for both coffee and tea. Science talks about the exact contents of an amazing
selection of food products. In that study, 77 different
But while the chemical is the same, this does not mean teas were tested - and the results were all over the
that the caffeine found in coffee has the same effect place! The caffeine content in each tea type differs
on the human body as the caffeine found tea. There immensely, with no connection between how much
are other factors involved, which will change your caffeine a certain tea contained, and whether that tea
experience with each drink. was white, green or black.

So to put it simply, you can’t predict the caffeine

The amino-acid L-theanine content of a tea by simply looking at the style. And
The amino acid L-theanine is the most important to get back into those myths, the tea with the most
reason that caffeine in tea is ‘different’ from the caffeine in that particular study was actually a variety
caffeine in coffee. Let me explain: L-theanine interacts of white tea!
with caffeine and makes it less easily absorbed by your
In 2008 another similar study was published in the
body. This in turn slows down the effects of caffeine.
Journal of Analytical Toxicology and their results
This explains why tea causes a much more steady
confirmed the same lack of a link between variety and
boost in mental awareness without the crash often
caffeine strength.
associated with coffee’s faster, more intense caffeine
boost. L-theanine also causes the body to relax and
become calmer.

26
Oxidation doesn’t increase caffeine Another explanation is that the young, tiny
content leaves contain the same chemicals, minerals, and
antioxidants, as larger leaves, but that these are
Another common myth, probably related to the earlier concentrated into a smaller area of the plant.
one about black tea having more caffeine than green
tea, suggests that oxidation increases the amount of • The size of the tea leaves - If you keep the
caffeine in tea. But there is no evidence that this is the temperature of the water, the overall amount of
case, as when tested higher oxidation teas do not have tea and the steeping time consistent, the size of
higher caffeine content than lower oxidation teas. the leaves will have an effect too. The bigger the
surface area of the leaf, the more caffeine dissolves
Factors that do influence the caffeine into the brew. So teabags generally give the most
content of tea caffeine, followed by very small leaves, and so on
and so on.
That’s not to say that the amount of caffeine in your
cup is entirely down to chance. Some factors can lead
• The cultivar of the tea - Much like you have
to a more highly-caffeinated brew:
varieties of apples, you can also find thousands
of tea cultivars. The two ‘main’ tea branches are
• The temperature of the water - When you steep the Assam variety and the Sinensis variety, with
the same amount of tea for the same amount of the Assam having - along with other differences -
time in hotter water, more of the caffeine present in bigger leaves, and a higher caffeine content.
the tea leaves dissolves into the infusion.

• The amount of tea leaves - Simply put, the more Region

leaves you add to the water, the higher the amount The caffeine level of a tea differs quite a lot depending
of caffeine available to be dissolved into your tea. on the region it comes from. In general, the higher the
elevation of the garden in which a tea was grown, the
• The brewing time - And much as with water more caffeine the tea contains (and the better the tea
temperature and tea quantity, the longer you steep is). One reason for this could be that the plant doesn’t
or brew your leaves, the more caffeine will be in the grow that quickly at these heights and therefore the
final tea, simply because it has had more time to density of minerals and nutrients within a tea plant
dissolve into the water. would be higher.

• The part of the plant used to make the tea - Teas Can you make a ‘decaf’ tea by doing a
can be made of different parts of the plant, and can
short brew and throwing that water
consist of leaves, buds or stems. Usually they are a
mixture of some or all of these. Buds are of course away?
in fact small young leaves. The caffeine content Well, yes and no. It will certainly help lower the
is highest for the youngest leaves, followed by the caffeine content of the tea since a lot of the caffeine
young leaves and finally the mature leaves. The comes out in the first minute(s). But that being said
stems contain very little caffeine. there is no way to obtain completely 100 percent
decaffeinated tea. There will always be a bit that
Because caffeine in the plant is a natural remains. If you want ‘real’ decaf tea you would
protection system against predators that would probably be better off with a
prefer to eat the rich young leaves, these leaves herbal infusion.
contain higher levels of caffeine.

27
 Tea leaves resting

Types of Tea
Today’s tea connoisseurs know that all true teas are This gradual change explains the difference in colour
cultivars and varieties of the same plant - camellia between green, oolong and black tea.
sinensis. But this hasn’t always been common
knowledge. Green tea is tea in its freshest form with as little
oxidation as possible. Black Teas are very high in
When travellers from the west discovered all the oxidation. And oolong teas are somewhere in between
beautiful colours of tea in China - mostly green, black the two as they have the process stopped some
and white - they assumed these aromatic leaves were time after oxidation already started. For green type
from related but different plants. oolongs this is early in the oxidation process, for black
style oolongs this is much later on.
And the Chinese tea farmers who guarded their
secrets didn’t feel the need to correct these western Oxidation is generally stopped with heating, which
explorers, but they knew all those types of tea and makes sure the oxidase enzyme which causes the
more come from the same plant. oxidation process is stopped.

One plant. Many types of tea. How is that even With green tea this heating is done as soon as
possible? possible after picking, sometimes even on the fields
itself. With oolong tea oxidation is encouraged until
The main differentiator between all the myriad types the teamaster decides this is the perfect oxidation
of tea is oxidation. level for this tea - at which point heating begins,
and with black tea oxidation is encouraged until a
It is oxidation which is responsible for the variety certain (usually high) level of oxidation is reached, or
of tea colours. The enzyme oxidase, when in sometimes the tea leaves are completely oxidized.
contact with air, creates theaflavins, tearubins and
polyphenols, all of which affect the way a leaf looks, Now that we’ve discussed the science of the oxidation
smells and tastes. and aging process let’s go deeper into each tea and
see what makes them truly special.
Oxidation starts within the cells of the tea leaves,
which become weaker over time after picking or
breaking the leaves.

28
White Tea
White tea is the least processed tea It is just picked, Chinese Emperors. It’s special when young but almost
dried and packaged. magical when aged. One of the things which makes
this tea so sought after is that only the very first leaves
That means there is no heating process. But white teas after the dormant period or winter are used, resulting
are unique, as these teas only use very early tea leaves in leaves which are loaded with the aromatics the plant
which are still in a ‘cocoon’ covered with white hair. was able to gather in that period.
This gives the tea a white appearance and sometimes
leaves little hairs in the white tea which you buy (which But while the leaves are special, the production of
is definitely a sign of quality). white tea is seemingly super simple and almost basic.

This method of preparing the tea means that white First you pick the tea leaves, usually either buds for the
tea leaves have a very hard cell wall, but as white tea is highest quality silver needle tea, or one bud and two
not heated, the enzyme oxidase still remains. Because leaves for white peony tea. Some lesser grades have
of the lack of a deliberate oxidation process and the three, four or even five leaves but those usually lack the
plant’s strong cells, it oxidises or “ages” very slowly. As subtle fine aromatics of the most prized white teas.
a white tea ages, it becomes sweeter, more aromatic
and develops a bit of an ‘aged taste’. This is very similar Then you spread the leaves and buds out on a large
to some red wines. surface so they can naturally dry over time. If this
step is skipped, the tea might get mouldy due to all
As these Chinese say about white tea: the extra moisture that is contained within the freshly
one-year tea, three-year medicine, seven-year treasure picked leaves.

White tea used to be reserved only for the great And then you package it. Nothing more, nothing less.

Bai Mu Dan ‘White Peony’ Tea

The white tea process is literally three steps:

2 3
1
Drying Careful
Picking
(or Withering) Packaging

The most famous white teas It’s the production process which
are picked in either the Fujian makes a white tea, not the colour.
province or Zhejiang province of Silver Needle White Tea
China, although white tea is now And the exact colour of the leaves
made all over the world. is heavily dependant on the exact
hybrid the tea farmers grow.
One thing to remember is that
not all true white tea is white in But more on that later on.
colour, and not all white coloured
tea is true white tea!

29
Green Tea
With green tea, the idea is to keep the tea leaves as After that the tea is rolled to in order to add more
close as can be to as if they had never been picked. flavour and form the leaves into the typical shape.
Trying to keep that pure green goodness as intact While this is mainly done by machine, the finest green
as possible. teas are still rolled and formed by hand. The exact way
a leaf is rolled varies from region to region, and the
This is done through heat. After a short (sometimes shape of a leaf is a good indicator of where a green tea
very short) natural drying, the leaves are heated mostly was grown.
through either a sort of “baking” or a sort
of “steaming”. After this final drying stage, where the leaves are
heavily dried to keep the flavour profile of the tea
This stops the enzyme oxidase and fixes the green consistent, the green tea is carefully packaged
flavour and colour into the leaves. for shipping.

Making a green tea is more complex than a white tea, but still quite simple:

1 2 3
Drying
Picking (or Withering)
Heating

6 5 4
Packaging Resting Rolling

Dragon Well Longjing Green Tea

30
Here is a photographic step-by-step process for the production of green tea:

1. Picking 2. Drying 3. Heating

6. Roasting (tea specific step) 5. Pressing (typical tea step) 4. Rolling

Taiping Houkui Green Tea

7. Finished product

Yellow Tea
Yellow tea is actually quite rare and it’s actually oxidised the same way as a green tea.

31
Oolong Tea
This is the class of tea with the most variety of all. From Oolong tea is formed using a unique rolling process in
sweet light, Taiwanese oolong teas too fiery, hot, smoky which the tea is shaped using liquid from the oxidation
da hong pao delicacies, or from a very low percentage process to build a specific flavour profile. This process
of oxidation to a very high one, and from a shorter has three repeated steps:
production process too a very long one. There’s almost
no limit to the variations and varieties of oolong. But 1. Heating the tea leaves
they all require more processing than other teas.
2. Rolling the tea leaves so that they release some of
The picking process is a bit different with oolong teas their liquid, and to shape them into a desired form
compared to other teas, as due to the long processing,
you need some leaves that are a bit bigger so that they 3. Compression of the tea leaves (for ball oolong teas
won’t break or burn during processing. So oolong teas only)
leaves will often be bigger, and will contain far more
leaves then buds (if they contain any buds at all). After this, the tea leaves rest a bit until they are heated
again, rolled again and compressed again. These steps
Then comes the oxidation stage, here oxidation is can be repeated over 10 times.
encouraged by gently shaking or stirring the tea leaves
while heating them. The teamaster is always very aware After that the tea is dried. Sometimes, as part of the
here and uses all his senses too make sure to get the drying process, the tea is carefully roasted to impart a
grade of oxidation that he envisions for this tea. He toasted flavour into the leaves. After that the tea leaves
makes his assumptions based on smell, experience, the are dried to the ideal moisture content - high enough
colour of the leaves (the more red, the more oxidized) that the leaves don’t break, low enough to keep the
and he feels the leaves to make sure the bouquet and leaf flavours and aromas balanced.
structure is exactly how he envisioned.
Then it is of course carefully packaged.
After that, like with green tea, the oxidation is stopped
by heating the tea leaves at high temperature, and after
that the step unique to oolong tea processing begins.

Tie guan yin tea

32
Oolong tea is the most complex tea process:

2 3 4
1
Drying Heating Rolling
Picking (or Withering) (repeated) (repeated)

6 6 5
7
Roasting
Compression/ Resting
Packaging final shaping (repeated)

Tie guan yin roasted tea Paochong (pouchongà) tea

33
Black Tea
Black tea starts with a picking process similar to green which flavour is imparted onto the tea, with hotter and
tea, then it is dried or withered to let the leaves lose wetter rooms leading to bolder teas. The teamaster
some moisture. The withering takes longer here, to carefully examines the leaves, until they have reached
help encourage oxidation of the leaves. the oxidation level he thinks is perfect.

Then comes the rolling phase, where the leaves are Often, contrary to what many people think, this is not
rolled, softening up their cell structure so that oxidase complete oxidation. Sometimes it isn’t even medium
can come out and start the oxidation process. oxidation, but since we don’t have the long processing
that you’d see in the production of oolong teas, we
Then comes the oxidation process - similar to the one usually still call these black teas.
used for oolong tea - but generally longer and faster.
After this there is a final drying stage, as with the
The leaves are spread out in a wet, hot room. In this previous teas, and then the tea is carefully packaged
room, the exact length, wetness and heat decides and brought to your teapot.

1 2 3
Picking Drying Rolling

5
6 4
Shaping/
Packaging Oxidation
Drying

Jin Jun Mei Wuyi Black Golden Monkey Yunnan Black Tea Bailin Gong fu Black Tea

34
Pu-erh Tea
There are really two types of pu-erh tea. On the one Sheng pu-erh tea is formed from coarser, bigger leaves
hand, the traditional green, raw or sheng pu-erh tea, and than most other teas. This is because they will be
on the other the more modern red or shou pu-erh. pressed and processed as the pu-erh is made. While
the finest pu-erh tea requires leaves of a tea tree, young
Both are grown in the Yunnan province of China, and bushes are often used for lower quality teas.
the very best is made from old native tea trees that can
live for over a century.

Yiwu Sheng Pu-erh Tea

Sheng Pu-erh
Sheng pu-erh tea is heated soon after the harvest (like For sheng pu-erh tea the final stage of production is
a green tea), but the big difference is that it is heated simply pressing it into a toucha or any other cake. You
very slowly at a lower temperature than most teas. The can also just leave pu-erh in leaf form, but this requires
goal is not to stop oxidation completely but stop 90% of very, very careful storage.
it, resulting in a very slow oxidation and aging process.
This is similar - but even slower - than the aging But of course this is where the slow journey into an art
process of white tea. piece begins for the sheng pu-erh tea, as it will age like
the best of red wines.
After picking, the leaves are spread in the sun, as part
of the classic withering process.

Then the heating process to stop the oxidation begins,

but unlike for other teas a much softer heating process 1 2 3
is used. This process aims not to stop the oxidation Picking Drying Gently Heated
entirely, but instead to greatly slow it down so it can
make time for other aging processes.

Then comes the rolling phase, to shape the tea leaves.

If the oxidation is not sufficiently slowed down enough
5 4
by this stage, a second heating process begins.
Pressed/Shaped/
Fermentation Packaged
After a second heating, comes a second rolling to
ensure the tea leaves are the correct shape.

After that the leaves are dried until they reach required
moisture level.

At this point we have what is usually called unfinished

tea, or maocha. Sheng Cake Pu-erh

35
Shou Pu-erh
Shou pu-erh is the most modern tea on this list, and darker colour. After the wet room, it rests for a couple
was created due to a shortage of sheng pu-erh tea, of years to ‘air out’ until it reaches a certain balance.
which needs to age for so long that there just was
not enough supply to meet the demands of tea lovers For shou pu-erh tea, the aging process is accelerated.
around the world. The maocha is placed in a wet room at a very high
temperature for at least a month. This creates the
Shou pu-erh tries to recreate the process of Sheng typical shou pu-erh “forest” taste. Essentially it
Pu-erh tea. It takes the leaves and spreads them out accelerates the slow oxidation process of sheng tea,
on large plates for an extended period of time, which but creates a unique product.
are then stored in a heated and wet room. This causes
the oxidation and more broad aging processes to After this the shou pu-erh tea is pressed into any
develop much faster than you would find with sheng shape or form. Shou pu-erh then needs a bit of
pu-erh tea, which causes shou pu-erh to lose a bit of cleaning out time before it is ready to be brewed into
the finer aromatic notes in favour of a bit of a typical that perfect cup.
‘forest taste.’ It can also easily be recognised due to a

1 2 3 4 5
Pressed/Shaped/
Picking Drying Gently Heated Fermentation Packaged

Toucha Pu-erh Tea Shou Cake Pu-erh

36
Tea Storage
While artisan farmers work hard to make sure tea Tea must be kept away from light
is grown properly, processed properly and packaged
Bright light affects everything. You’ll have seen
properly, that’s not the end of the story. If you’re truly
how sunshine can fade a poster or bleach a garden
looking to enjoy the perfect cup of loose leaf tea, you
ornament, so you can imagine what it’ll do to delicate
need to do some work of your own. Because learning
tea leaves. While we are not sure of the exact effect
how to store your tea properly will ensure your leaves
light has on picked and processed tea, it is wise to
stay fresher, longer. And that’s one of the simplest ways
make sure that you store your leaves somewhere
to enjoy the best cuppa that can be.
dark. Most experts agree that bright light encourages
certain chemical reactions you don’t want, and
We will start with some general storage tips, after
common sense agrees with them. So it’s best to keep
which I’ll share some pointers for each different sort
your away from light, and to use a sealed package to
of tea.
keep everything away from the glare.

Tea must be kept away from heat Keep your teas dry
Heat speeds up the processes that make the tea
How do you extract flavour and aroma from tea leaves?
leaves lose their delicate flavour. Heating and drying
You get them wet. That’s fantastic when it happens
tea properly is a complex process that takes farmers
in your pot, and terrible when it happens in the tea’s
years to master, so one of the worst things you
packaging. Always keep your teas dry and away from
can do is undo that hard work by storing your tea
moisture. Even a slight dampness can cause the tea
somewhere too hot! It is best for most teas to be kept
revert to its form as a full leaf, undoing months of hard
in a cool environment, away from heat sources. This
work from the artisan farmers. If it gets wet, the tea
doesn’t need to be a refrigerator, a room temperature
starts giving up its delicate oils and other elements
basement, cupboard or pantry is just fine. By keeping
way too early, losing a lot of the taste you want to save
the temperature cool and stable, your tea stays fresh
for your cup. For most teas, always keep your package
for your next cup.
sealed, so that no moisture can seep in.

An old Chinese tea shop

37
Store Tea away from Strong Smells Heavy oolong and black tea
Tea absorbs the smell of anything close to it, this is Heavy oolong and black teas are subject to a high level
why it’s so important to keep it away from anything of oxidation before they’re packaged, which makes
that smells strongly. This means that the cupboard or them naturally more resistant to losing their flavours
pantry shelf where you keep your herbs and spices may These teas’ taste stays much longer, although following
not be the best place for your tea. Instead look for a the general precautions above will extend the period in
clean place preferably where you don’t keep any strong- which the tea stays fresh. Some teas are even ripened
smelling foods. If you have a cupboard just for sealed for years at a time, which means the tea is slowly aged
tins and dried food, that’ll be perfect for storing your in the same way as some red wines.
loose leaf tea.
Pu-erh tea
While steering clear of light, heat, moisture and
powerful odours is good advice for any kind of tea, Pu-erh tea is stored in a different way to other teas, as
some varieties need a little more care. So let’s look at it has been made in a way that allows it to gradually
specific advice for each type of tea. age over time. You can let it be exposed to the open
air as long as that air isn’t too wet or humid. In this
way, your Pu-erh tea is slowly aged over months and
Green Tea and ‘green’ oolong tea even years. The result is a soft, mellow tea which often
These are the teas you need to be the most careful contains hay, prune, and hints of chocolate.
with. These delicate teas are not as oxidized as others
are, which means they decay faster as other teas. So now you know how to store it, you can go and enjoy
Before opening the packaging, these teas should be some tea!
stored in an airtight container in a room temperature
area, or even better in your fridge. Once the package
is opened it should be finished as quickly as possible,
stored between uses in an airtight container such as
tupperware or a (clean!) biscuit tin, and kept in a room
temperature cupboard - not the fridge!

White tea
Unlike green teas, white teas can be aged at home.
It all depends on how you like your tea, if you like a
softer, more rounded, sweeter cup you can let it rest
for quite a while, storing it in a dark, dry place for up
to two years. If you prefer a vegetal, more pronounced
taste you should treat it like a green tea and store it in
the exact same way.

Big White Oolong should be stored in a dark

dry place for up to two years.

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 Chinese Tea

The first cup caresses my dry lips and throat,

The second, I’m not alone anymore,
The third and I see the dry streams of my soul
Searching for legends of five thousand scrolls.
With the fourth, the pain of past injustice is gone..
The fifth purify my body.
With the sixth, I converse with higher beings.
The seventh, oh the seventh
it conveys such pleasure it’s too much.
The wind blows through my wings,
As I make my way back.

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 China
The Ultimate Tea Country

Jasmine Green Tea.

I love all teas from all over the world. But one tea producing region stands head
and shoulders above all others as my ultimate tea country. And I’m not alone. Many
experts and connoisseurs prize the tea from this country above all others, claiming
they can taste thousands of years of history in each cup.

Of course, I could only be speaking of the homeland of tea. China.

We’ll start with the history of tea in china then move on to the legendary tea regions
of China, and finally the country’s famous teas themselves.

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The History of Chinese Tea

China’s rich tea-producing history stretches back and enhance their appreciation of their existence in
close to 5000 years, and our favourite drink’s story is relationship to the natural and social environments.
intertwined with the rise and fall of great dynasties, After all, meditation is one of the key pillars of Zen
the wisdom of great philosophers and the spread of Buddhism, and what could be more meditative than
Chinese culture. watching tea slowly steep in a swirling pot of water?

In the early days of Chinese tea drinking, tea was used Tea drinking became a way to boost one’s spiritual
as a medicine and stimulant by the monks of China’s well-being and cultivation, especially when medicinal
first monasteries. Important officials would add tea flavourings such as ginger, spices, orange and even
leaves to their food to add nutrients and stave off the onion were added to the gently steeping tea.
effects of their enemy’s poisons. Writers and scholars
praised this miraculous plant for enhancing the
mind, promoting wakefulness, and providing various
medicinal qualities.

But it wasn’t until the rise of the Han Dynasty

(206BC – 220AD) that tea preparation became more
standardised and China’s varieties of tea (more on
those later) developed the distinct qualities and
flavours that allowed them to rival even wine as a
complex, rewarding drink.

Under the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907AD), a cultural and

culinary tea revolution began to take root. Chinese
notables embraced tea drinking as a daily habit – one
which demonstrated their refinement and cultured
character. The world’s very first tea houses opened
their doors, and artisans, painters and poets flocked
through them to find inspiration.

It’s no wonder that so much of their work turned into

tributes to this wonderful drink! In fact, I’ve shared my
favourite Chinese tea poem elsewhere in this book.

At this time, tea was first pressed into cakes for storage
and distribution. These cakes would then be ground
into powder and served with boiling water, which
drinkers would use to steep the tea and create the
familiar drink we know and love.

Buddhist monks, noblemen and Zen Masters began

to champion tea as a drink which increased their
awareness, but they also began to extol the virtues
of the tea brewing and drinking process. Great tea
takes time. Time, which the Zen Masters say, gave
the drinker a chance to become mindful and aware, Lu Yu the Tea Sage

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By the time of the Song Dynasty (960 – 1279AD) the During the Ming Dynasty, tea finally came to be
“Song Way of Tea” had become a spiritual predecessor the drink we recognise today, with the first versions
to the Japanese tea ceremony. This cultural and poetic of black tea, oolong tea and green tea rising to
practice placed a strong emphasis on the rules of prominence during this time. Tea had become China’s
tea preparation which, along with the tea itself, had secret strength, and one which she jealously guarded
become more and more refined over the hundreds of from the world. Ships from all over the globe would
years since the Han and the Tang. seek out Chinese ports, load up on tea, and spread the
drink around the world.
During the Song period, tea would mostly be green
tea leaves, ground to a fine powder and whipped until This couldn’t last forever. Following the Opium Wars
frothy with a purpose-made bamboo whisk. Centuries with Great Britain, China’s tea monopoly smashed. Tea
would pass before we would see the beginnings of the would be planted by the British in Sri Lanka (formerly
loose leaf tea which is so prevalent today. Ceylon) and elsewhere, sending China’s tea economy
into a recession. And so it would last for over a century.
But with the rise of the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644AD)
came the rise of loose leaf. Tea would be shipped and But times have moved on again. Over the past
steeped in its leaf form, a development which lead to twenty years or so, China’s tea making industry has
the creation of the teapot and the earliest versions of reawakened. The former glory of the ultimate tea
the gaiwan. country has been reclaimed, and a boom in Chinese
tea has meant one thing.
Tea would also become more widespread throughout
China. A drink formerly reserved for Emperors, We are once again living in a golden age of Chinese tea.
noblemen and Zen Masters was now a drink for the
whole nation, and demand for both tea and teaware
rose not just in China, but beyond her borders too.

Bailin Gong fu

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China’s Legendary Tea

Growing Regions
Fujian Zheijiang
The world’s most famous and large tea growing region This province is famed for variety. China’s favourite
makes the world’s largest variety of tea. Within the Dragon Well (Longjing) is cultivated in the Hangzhou
Fujian province are the famed tea-growing areas of Westlake (Xihu) area, while Zheijiang produces
Fuding, Wuyi and Anxi. legendary gunpowder tea (Zhu Cha).

Fuding Guangdong
Birthplace of white tea and has amazing jasmine and Phoenix Oolong Tea or Dan Cong is carefully
green teas. cultivated in Fenghuang – the famed tea producing
area of China’s Guangdong province. Fenghuang, the
Wuyi Mountains Phoenix Mountain, gives this oolong its name.
A mineral rich, mountainous area renowned for
heavy roasted oolong and smoked lapsang Guangxi
souchong teas. White, green and black teas thrive in Guangxi, all of
which can be flavoured with Guangxi’s famous sweet
Anxi osmanthus flowers.
Home of the best Tie Guan Yin oolong teas
Jiangxi
Yunnan From scented teas and floral green teas to Keemun
style black teas, Jiangxi is home to a variety of tea
A very mountainous and secluded province, Yunnan styles. However, the region’s most famous produce is
is believed to be the location of the earliest tea plants Lushan Yunwu, the Cloud Wind Tea.
and the birthplace of tea.

Yunnan is most famous for its ancient tea trees, Jiangsu

some of which are hundreds of years old. These trees The home province of Bi Luo Chun, a famous green
produce a special tea - pu-erh - which is often pressed tea, Jiangsu is also famed for other styles of green tea.
into cakes, bricks or tuocha and can be aged for
decades. Jiangsu is home to the Dong Ting region (where Bi
Luo Chun is grown) and Yixing, the source of the
Yunnan is also home to three famed black teas; famed purple clay used in the Yixing teapots which
golden needle, golden monkey and Yunnan black tea. form a staple in gongfu brewing.

Anhui
Home of the famous Yellow Mountains (Huang
Shang), Anhui produces some of the world’s most
prized green teas; Taiping Houkui and Mao Feng,
along with the black tea Keemun (or Qimen).

Yunnan Black Tea

43
 China’s Most Famous Teas

Lapsang Souchong

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Longjing
Also known as Dragon Well Green Tea, this smooth Longjing is famously wok-roasted during the heating
and mellow tea is grown in the mountain areas around step of green tea processing (Shaqing in Mandarin)
Hangzhou, Zhejiang. This tea is light yellow-green, This is done by placing the tea leaves in a very hot wok
with lighter leaves indicating a higher quality. This and moving the leaves constantly to ensure each leaf is
tea offers a strong, sweet aroma and a mellow, grassy lightly toasted but never ever burned.
flavour, with beautiful long, flat leaves.
The finest quality dragon well tea available today is
The tea is named after the great west-lake of still hand-wok-roasted in Hangzhou.
Hangzhou, which is very close to the original growing
area. It is also famed for its history - originally The early season first-picking, known as Ming Qian
Longjing was reserved solely for the Emperor, until or Pre-Qingming (or Before Ching Ming) Longjing
after thousands of years an Emperor graciously tea has to be produced from the first leaves prior to
allowed his favourite tea to be enjoyed by high officials. the Qingming Festival on the 5th of April each year.
But because this tea is so famous, and held such high
Longjing tea was granted the name of Imperial tea regard as a gift, it is very expensive. You can still find
during the Qing dynasty by the Kangxi Emperor. very good dragon well tea throughout April, but the
very best of the best must be picked before the festival.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Longjing 43
From: Hangzhou, Zhejiang, China
Harvested: March
Style: Dragon Well hand-fired green tea.
Highest quality ‘picked before the rain’ Longjing.
Founders Opinion: Amazing aromas and a rich
flavour profile, my favourite Chinese green tea.

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 CHINA

Keemun Black
Keemun is named for its place of origin (Qimen) in
the Yellow Mountains of the Anhui province. Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Zu Ye Zhong
Keemun black tea is known for boasting a fresh
aromatic taste, and leaves that are very gently rolled From: Keemun, Anhui
into famously delicate needles. Harvested: April
Style: Pure Bud Version Keemun black tea.
Chinese black teas often have notes of leather and
cacao, but Keemun goes beyond that with fruity and Founders Opinion: A very rich chocolate scent,
fresh notes adding to an already beautiful bouquet with a great aroma. A prime example of the tea
of flavours. growers’ art.

There are actually quite a variety of teas called

Keemun, that vary in quality based on their picking
standards - Mao Feng, Hao Ya and Xin Ya.

This tea is usually picked from April.

Keemun Xin Ya

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Keemun Mao Feng

This tea is of the one bud, two leaf style, and is known as a strong, aromatic, and almost bold tea.

Keemun Hao Ya
Sometimes called ‘western grade tea,’ Keemun Hao Ya is comprised of one bud with three or more leaves. This
delivers a strong taste with less aroma than other teas, creating a bold infusion often enjoyed with milk.

Keemun Xin Ya
This tea is made from pure tea buds, providing a tea which is light in body but packed with aroma. As such,
this tea is enjoyed by tea drinkers who perhaps prefer more floral, less full-bodied teas than those who prize
the robust flavour of a black tea.

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Bi Luo Chun
This tea has been known since the Ming Dynasty under a different name - “Xia Shia Ren Xiang” or “astounding
fragrance.”

But the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing Dynasty didn’t like the name even though he loved the tea. He renamed it
‘Bi Luo Chun’ or “Green Snail Spring.”

Green Snail Spring Tea is picked early in the mornings from the slopes of the Dong Ting region in the Jiangsu
province. Usually at the end of March or in early April.

Made from the bud and first leaf of the tea plant, this fruity green tea is famous for being light in colour.

This tea is packed with fruity aromas, mellow flavours and a refreshing after-taste that will be remembered
long after your cup is empty. A truly one of a kind tea with low body, but an hours long after-taste. It’s no
wonder that this tea was prized by the most powerful men in China.

The leaves are carefully rolled into a tight twist like the shell of a snail, which is what inspired the Kangxi
Emperor to choose the snail tea name.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Dong Ting Qunti

From: Dong Ting, Jiangsu, China
Harvested: April
Style: Classic one but one leaf Bi Luo Chun.
Grown in the historic, original location.
Founders Opinion: Great version of the classic Bi
Luo Chun, fresh, sweet, clean with a typical bite.

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Da Hong Pao
Great Red Robe Tea is a famous tea from the Wuyi
mountains in Fujian. Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Huang Guanyin

Is is the most famous of the four “Yancha” high
roasted mineral rich oolong teas. From: Wuyi, Fujian, China
Harvested: April
The others are Tie Luo Han, Bai Ji Guan and Shui Style: Traditionally roasted, mineral-rich Wuyi
Jin Gui. tea with a coating after-taste.
Founders Opinion: The real flavour of Da Hong
According to legend, the mother of a Ming dynasty
Pao at a great price.
emperor was cured of an illness by da hong pao tea
and sent out a red cloak to be draped across the
bushes and protect them from harm.

These bushes are still there, although the red robe no

longer remains.

The tea is made using a long artisan process, with

very slow oxidation which continues until a high level
of oxidation is reached, followed by a long roasting at
the end of it. This gives the tea it’s typical richness.

Full bodied with twisted leaves, da hong pao has a

deep mineral richness with complex floral flavours
and warm roasted notes. Intimidating to novices and
beloved by those in the know, this is a tea to try.

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Tie Guan Yin From Anxi

Iron Goddess of Mercy is an oolong tea named for the Over time, Wei and all his neighbours prospered.
Chinese goddess of compassion.
Tie Guan Yin is the name of the tea variety or cultivar
The tea received this name as a result of the following and while it originated in Anxi province, extremely
legend: high quality tea of this type are now grown in Taiwan
as well.
In Fujian Anxi County, there was a run-down temple
which held an iron statue of Guanyin, the Bodhisattva Tea from the Tie Guan Yin bush can be low or high
of Compassion. oxidation, heavy roasted or not roasted at all, or
anything in between.
Being poor, Wei did not have the means to repair the
temple. One day, he brought a broom and some incense The most famous is the high oxidation, high roasted
from his home. He swept the temple clean and lit the ‘old style’ which is unfortunately quite hard to find
incense as an offering to Guanyin. “It’s the least I can nowadays.
do,” he thought to himself. And he did this twice a
month for many months. The new modern green version, which is low oxidation
and not roasted, is found all over China these days - and
One night, Guanyin appeared to him in a dream, telling can even be found in Starbucks! Although as always,
him of a cave behind the temple where a treasure this modern Tie Guan Yin comes in all levels of quality.
awaited. He was to take the treasure and share it with
others. In the cave, the farmer found a tea shoot. He
planted it in his field and nurtured it into a large bush,
from which the finest tea was produced.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Tie Guan Yin

From: Anxi, Fujian, China
Harvested: April
Style: Medium roasted in the traditional style.
Founders Opinion: Great thick mouthfeel and
refreshingly sweet. Great to drink all day long.

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Tie Guan Yin

Modern Style
Sweet, with touches of honey and peaches, this tea greatly refreshing.
This tea is beloved for its floral fragrance and lasting sweet after-taste.

Tie Guan Yin Old Style

The flavour of this tea is soft and sweet with a It has been highly revered since imperial times, and
warming toasted grain overtone provided by the was also one of the few teas with the imperial seal
long, slow roasting of the tea leaves. This mellows to a of approval.
honeyed, coating after-taste with a hint of spice.
It is said you need more than 10000 tea buds for a
This the result of traditional growing, harvesting single kilogram of silver needle tea, and the very
and long roasting methods employed by artisan careful plucking of these buds partly explains
farmers in one of the world’s most highly regarded tea the price.
growing areas.
Silver needle white tea offers a wide range of
Bai Hao Yin Zhen: Silver Needle Tea is the finest white flavours for the connoisseur to enjoy, boasting a soft
tea in the world. Made only from early buds of special herbaceous aroma with notes of cut hay, berries and a
cultivars. The most famous versions of this tea are rich hint of caramel and dark chocolate.
from either Fujian or Zhejiang.
This is widely, and in my opinion rightly, regarded as
This tea style is defined by the tiny trichomes the pinnacle of white tea.
(hairs) on the buds that give this tea a silvery white
appearance.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Tie Guan Yin

From: Anxi, Fujian, China
Harvested: April
Style: Medium roasted in the traditional style.
Founders Opinion: Great thick mouth-feel and
refreshingly sweet.
Great to drink all day long.

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Sheng Pu-erh
An amazing tea category, best suited for aging but one that can be drunk soon after harvesting as well.

It can be called sheng, raw or green pu-erh and it is only made in Yunnan.

A raw tea which is highly sought after by tea lovers all over the world. This green pu-erh offers a sweeter, more
fragrant tea than the more widespread cooked pu-erh tea.

Pu-erh is the product of older tea trees, which are believed to imbue the tea with a wide range of health-giving
properties. That’s why practitioners of Chinese traditional medicine value this tea so highly. Sheng Pu-erh,
made from the leaves of the old trees known as Gushu, is particularly prized.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Da Ye Zhong
From: Yunnan, China
Harvested: April 2018
Style: Pressed Sheng pu-erh tea.
Founders Opinion: Great value Sheng pu-erh
tea cake, great for drinking or storage. Fresh,
aromatic and rich.

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Shou Pu-erh
Also called cooked or ripened pu-erh. A new modern
pu-erh tea, designed to meet the huge and growing
demand for aged pu-erh tea, without having to wait
as long as using traditional methods.

This tea brews a deep red infusion with a hearty

sweet aroma, balanced by fragrant woods and mild
earthy depths. When you put a cup to your lips, this
aroma gives way to a full-bodied tea with complex
floral notes and the lingering hint of honeysuckle.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Da Ye Zhong
From: Menghai, Yunnan, China
Harvested: April 2011
Style: Pressed Rich Shou pu-erh tea.
Founders Opinion: Smooth pu-erh tea with a
lot of sweetness, for a great price. A real daily tea.

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 CHINA

Mi Lan Dan Cong

The famous phoenix, r dan cong, or bitter-sweet
oolong teas from Phoenix Mountain (Fenghuang in Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:
Mandarin,) have one king. Mi Lan Dan Cong. Cultivar: Milan Xiang

The original phoenix oolong tea, Mi Lan Dan Cong (or From: Wudong, Fenghuang (Phoenix),
Honey Orchid) is carefully cultivated on the slopes of Guangdong, China
Fenghuang- the Phoenix Mountain. Grown since the Harvested: April
age of the Ming Dynasty. These leaves brew a sweet, Style: Double-baked Phoenix Oolong. The
vivid tea with a delicious fruity taste that offers notes original Dan Cong.
of peach and lychee.
Founders Opinion: This is the real deal, made
It’s called the original because this was the first in the right place, from the right cultivar.
cultivar used to make this tea long long ago. A lot of Rich, aromatic, and with an amazing flavour
other cultivars are now used as well, often because palate.
they have a greater yield. Many of them are great. Best in class.
Some are superb. But none truly match up to the
original phoenix oolong.

The production process for this tea is typical for a

darker oolong tea very long, and is then very carefully
“double” roasted over a long period of time. All of
this care and time delivers one of the most intense
experiences in tea.

Mi Lan Dan Cong is a rewarding drink for any

connoisseur.

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 CHINA

Mao Feng from

Huang Shang
A famous green tea grown and picked by artisan
farmers near the peak of the Huang Shan mountain.

When you lift this tea to your nose, you’ll smell a rich
floral aroma. As you sip, you’ll experience a sweet, Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:
soft and smooth taste. Mao Feng actually means one
bud, one leaf which is a very fine tea. The buds and Cultivar: Qun Ti Zhu
leaves are then rolled into a ‘sparrow tongue’ shape From: Huangshang, Anhui, China
which is a tender long form.
Harvested: April
Beside the great artisanal care in crafting, this tea Style: Classic Mao Feng green tea.
is also famous because of its origins. Huang Shang Founders Opinion: Great version of a classic.
mountain is a very high peak, almost in the clouds, Refreshing and clean with a hint of spice and
making it perfect for making delicate tea. Sometimes typical Chinese green tea sweetness.
it’s also called “Cloud” tea for this very reason.

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Jin Jun Mei

Not only yanchas grow on Wuyi Mountain, but all teas grown there have a rocky, mineral flavour. This is true
of Jin Jun Mei, but this tea offers far more than simple minerality.

When you open a package of this tea, you would think there is actual chocolate in there. If it were possible, I’d
say this tea smells even more chocolatey than chocolate itself!

Golden Beautiful Eyebrow tea or Jin Jun Mei is one of the most highly sought-after black teas in the world. It
has a high grade black tea mouthfeel and aroma, with chocolate and other mature high notes, combined with
the unmistakable minerality of the Wuyi region.

This is a high grade tea style from Tongmu village made solely of buds. The use of buds alone gives the tea its
distinct golden sheen.

Made from small buds, this tea is picked in early spring to ensure a sweeter flavour, and one could even call
this the black silver needle tea.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Xiao Zhong

From: Xingcun, Wuyi, Fukian, China
Harvested: April
Style: Classic Wuyi black tea.
Founders Opinion: Wuyi minerality combined
with black tea chocolate richness. Ours (and
China’s favourite black tea.

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Taiping Houkui
Also known as Monkey Chief, this tea is famous for its
sheer size. The leaves used to create Taiping Houkui
are much larger than you might expect, and come
from a cultivar grown only in Anhui.

The processing in Tai Ping, Han Shuan and Anhui is

still done using artisanal methods, similar to longjing Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:
but with an oven instead of a wok.
Cultivar: Shida Ye
This loose leaf tea offers a uniquely smooth floral From: Taiping, Huangshang, Anhui, China
scent and flavour with a distinct toastyness.
Harvested: April
It’s name ‘Monkey Chief’ comes from the old story Style: Classic Taiping Houkui baked long leaves.
that monkeys were used to pick these tea leaves, Founders Opinion: Famous for its long leaves,
although there is no evidence of that. Taiping Houkui is toasty sweet with a wide
palate of flavours. A must try.
This is truly a great tea for anytime of day.

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Yunnan Golden Needle

Golden Monkey is a special grade of Yunnan Dian Hong.

Basically a higher grade of the normal “yunnan black tea which is a staple in most of China, but one containing
young buds and two leaves.

The oxidized buds turn gold, hence the name “golden shoot.”

Boasting a strong smoky chocolate and cocoa flavour, these golden buds brew a silky smooth black tea which
carries subtle hints of honey and pepper, but in difference too for example Jin Jun Mei, this black tea still has a
natural boldness that black tea lovers crave. Making it perfect for people who love there black teas, but want to
take it a step beyond.

Be however warned, there is no going back once you try this tea.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Da Ye Zhong
From: Fenhuang, Yunnan, China
Harvested: March
Style: Yunnan classic black tea.
Founders Opinion: Intense rich black tea that’s
malty and brisk. A top breakfast tea.

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Lapsang Souchong
Rich, smokey and tarry, this is a tea that carries a
strong reputation.

Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong is a black tea that was

carefully dried over pine wood. This is a tea that’s
almost never drunk in China, but one that is made for
and loved by western tea lovers. Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Lapsang Souchong is grown on the Wuyi Mountains Cultivar: Wuyi Caicha

in Fujian, and is available in a range of varieties From: Tongmuguan, Wuyi, Fujian, China
stretching from unsmoked to completely smoked. All
Harvested: June
of these varieties are smoky and sweet.
Style: Medium Lapsang. Pinewood roasted.
This black tea carries malty campfire notes, which Founders Opinion: Classic smoky and full
will certainly stir strong opinions. Much like peated bodied Lapsang. A balanced ‘wildfire’ taste with
whiskies, this tea is either loved or hated with no a classic black fragrance.
middle ground.

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Gunpowder Green Tea

Gunpowder tea or Zhu Cha, is perhaps most famous for its role in Moroccan mint tea, but certainly higher
grades can delight any tea lover.

It is made by frying leaves and buds in a wok, which are then carefully rolled up into a thin pellet.

Gunpowder tea is another specialty from Fuding, Fujian and has benefitted from high rainfall and hot
temperatures.

Despite its fiery name, Gunpowder tea is famed for its smooth, rich flavours and the hint of smoke that make it
so highly sought after.

This tea brews a soft yellow drink with a long, sweet after-taste.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Biyun
From: Zhejiang, China
Harvested: April
Style: Gunpowder pellet green tea. ‘Tea of
Heaven’ or Zucha.
Founders Opinion: Great, smooth rich
gunpowder tea. One of my favourite daily drinks!

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 CHINA

Jasmine Pearls
Another Fujian specialty, Jasmine Dragon Pearls
are made from a wonderful selection of young green
tea leaves which have been scented with jasmine
blossoms. The tea leaves are carefully harvested in
April, and are then processed before being put into
cold storage until the summer, when the jasmine
blossoms come out. The leaves are then carefully
covered with jasmine blossoms which are then
removed and replaced six to seven times, before the
leaves are carefully rolled up into pearls which seal
in the flavour. At the highest quality there are no
jasmine blossoms in the tea, since after a short period
of time they lose all their fragrance, and they only
keep their weight.

Flowery freshness, a rich subtle jasmine flavour, and

an aroma that stays with you long after your cup is
empty. A great tea any time of day.

The silver tips and small leaves are hand-rolled into a

unique pearl shape. This tea is picked and hand-rolled
in Fujian, China. The best quality contain buds as
well as leaves, which will appear as silver linings in
the pellets.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Da Bai
From: Fuding, Fujian, China
Style: Jasmine green tea phoenix pearls. A lot of
silver buds.
Founders Opinion: A great balance between
green tea and jasmine. Bringing a wide palate of
flavours. Perfect to drink all day.

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 CHINA

Lushan Yunwu
Clouds and Mist Tea is from Lu Shan in Jiangxi Province. The name refers to the mountains shrouded in clouds
and mist where this tea is grown. The finished tea is made up of leaves that are picked individually, withered,
pan-fired, rolled into uniform dark green curls and dried.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Biyun
From: Lushan, Jiangxi, China
Harvested: April
Style: From mist-clouded mountains in Lushan.
Founders Opinion: A classic daily tea, with
mature green flavours, and an enticing aroma.

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 CHINA

Bailin Gongfu
This tea is arguably the most famous of Fujian
province’s three famous gongfu style teas. Produced
in Bailin village in Fuding County from the ‘Da Bai’
or big white cultivar, this tea is withered, rolled,
oxidized and then bake dried. The finished tea is
strip shaped, long and wiry with black and fuzzy gold
leaves.

Bailin Gongfu has been enjoyed in its native China

for hundreds of years, thanks to its unique character.
This tea is fully oxidized, allowing the flavours to
develop and soften.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Fuding Dahao

From: Bailin, East Fujian, China
Harvested: May
Style: Fujian black tea. One of the three famous
Gongfu teas.
Founders Opinion: Rich and refreshing,
producing a thick liquor.
A speciality mild black tea. Perfect if you want
something different.

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 CHINA

Silver Jasmine
Yin Hao Silver Tip jasmine tea is the best version of
the classic green jasmine loose leaf tea. The silver tips
mean that young leaves and a bud are used.

Like all jasmine teas, this is a speciality of the Fujian

province. The leaves are carefully harvested in April,
before being processed and placed into cold storage
until the summer. When the jasmine blossoms
appear, they are used to cover the tea. The blossoms
are removed and replaced six or seven times, infusing
the tea with a fine jasmine scent. The blossoms
themselves are then removed entirely from the
Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:
highest quality teas.
Cultivar: Bai Hao
This produces a marvellous tea, slightly sweeter and From: Fuding, Fujian, China
more bold then jasmine pearls.
Style: Jasmine-scented green tea.
This tea is subtle and sweet, with hints of brown Founders Opinion: Intense jasmine sweetness.
sugar and the unmistakable scent and flavour of For those who like their teas sweet. A great daily
jasmine. When you need to unwind, this is the tea drink.
for you.

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 CHINA

White Peony
Similar to silver needle, but with a picking standard of one bud and two leaves the famous bai mu dan white
tea or White Peony is also grown in the Fujian province.

This tea is produced using a more modern production then the traditional white tea bai hao yin zhen, but it
offers more body and mouth-feel then a standard white tea.

Picked slightly later than bai hao yin zhen in April, when the first leaves after the bud have come.

White Peony has a sweet aroma with hints of spring leaves and fresh-cut hay, and as it ages it creates a great
bouquet of fruits and chocolate sweetness.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Da Baiye
From: Fuding, Fujian, China
Harvested: April
Style: Traditional Fuding White Peony Tea.
Founders Opinion: A preferred daily white tea
for its sweet, floral freshness.

65
 Taiwan
The Beauty of Tea

Gaba Oolong Tea

When European sailors from Portugal first set eyes on Taiwan in 1590, they decided
to name the island “Formosa” - meaning “the beautiful.” Hundreds of years later,
Taiwan’s tea culture has been influenced by mainland China, Japanese investors and
the tea-drinking tastes of British traders and sailors. The end result is a unique tea
culture and one very special variety. The world famous oolong.

In this chapter, I’m delighted to introduce you to the tea traditions and history of
Taiwan.

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 TAIWAN

The History of Taiwanese Tea

Despite its close proximity to both mainland China to Dong Ding, in Lugu, Taiwan. These trees thrived in
the west and the southernmost Japanese islands to the Taiwan’s climate, and the world was soon introduced
east, Taiwan was a unique island with an aboriginal to Dong Ding Oolong.
culture well into the fifteen hundreds. But as European
traders explored the South China Sea, everything Over the next 20 years, British traders began to
soon changed. influence the tea trade. A company called Jardine
Matheson & Co began to buy up semi-finished Dong
In 1590, Portuguese explorers discovered an island Ding Oolong and sell it all over the world, prompting
with green mountains and volcanic springs, and the trader John Dodd to invest heavily in the region in
immediately named it Formosa – the beautiful. Then, 1866. Teas that would otherwise have been shipped to
for nearly a century, very little happened, until in the Anxi or Fuzhou for finishing could now be processed in
1660s, Taiwan’s history as a tea culture began. Taiwan itself, giving birth to wholly Taiwanese Oolong.

In 1662, Taiwan became part of China, and a wave In 1895, the Japanese Empire occupied Taiwan and
of Han Chinese immigrants from the famous Fujian carried on where the British had left off, investing
province arrived the following year. From their homes heavily in tea and introducing new cultivars. Farmers
close to the Wuyi Mountains, these farmers brought were also taught the secrets of Japanese tea production
new seeds and plants for their gardens. Soon, small tea and new machinery was imported to increase
trees were springing up so that the new arrivals could production.
enjoy a refreshing cup of China’s famous tea varieties.
By 1970, the unique relationship between Taiwan and
In the 18th Century, a thriving tea trade started to mainland China led to a more inward-looking tea
grow around the northern end of the island, close to market, with farmers focusing on one variety beloved
Taipei, and these Taiwanese settlers began to import by the local Taiwanese. Oolong. Now, over 400 years
more and more tea and plants. In 1855, history’s course since the first Portuguese sailor spotted this beautiful
was set when Linfeng Chi took a number of small island, Taiwan has built a reputation as the producer of
oolong trees from the Wuyi Mountains and set off for the world’s finest oolong teas.

Milk Oolong Jin Xuan Jinxuan

67
 TAIWAN

Taiwanese Tea Culture

in the 21st Century
Almost all Taiwanese tea produced today is drunk Taiwan is thoroughly immersed in tea, and it is an
in Taiwan, but even so they import a lot of tea from important part of daily life for whole families. It is
China and Vietnam. Among the most popular grown in every region and sold on every street corner.
imports are jasmine tea and pu-erh tea, for which the It is served in special tea houses, during business
Taiwanese have a huge craving. As such, Taiwanese negotiations, at wedding banquets, and in funeral
teas are a rarity in Europe compared to Chinese and services.
Indian tea, but as we’ll see later, many Taiwan-grown
styles are well worth seeking out. Tea is part of the social fabric of Taiwan. “Come in
and drink tea,” is a standard greeting to guests, and
Taiwanese tea production is really focused more the most famous Taiwanese saying explains just how
on quality than quantity. This is in part because of special tea is on the island.
its subtropical, stable climate and high mountains.
Summer rain in the south and winter rain in the “You have friends and you have tea – so you’re rich!”
north, are just crying out to produce the very best
of tea. That’s definitely something I agree with.

Taiwan is famous for its high grown teas. These grow

slower due to the colder temperatures and smaller
amount of sunshine caused by mountain fog. This
leads to more minerals being available for each tea
leaf, the leaves becoming a lusher, green colour, and
because of the wet fog quite flexible in nature ideal for
heavy oolong processing.

Taiwan is also famed for its contests. Twice a year

in each tea producing region, hundreds of teas are
compared by the most highly respected professionals
to choose a champion tea. Growers compete for
honour, reputation, and the increase in price that
such a bonus brings.

Most teas are drunk at home, where there is always

a tea table and gong fu brewing equipment. The
Taiwanese have their own tea ceremony that is
more elaborate than in China, although not quite as
intricate as the Japanese ceremony. A special piece of
brewing equipment that you find nowhere else if the
sniffer cup; a cup designed to let the drinker smell the
aroma of the tea.

Red Jade Ruby Taiwan Black Tea

68
 TAIWAN

Taiwan’s Famous Tea Regions

Nantou This area is also home to what claims to be the biggest
tea-dedicated museum in the world. The museum
The biggest tea producing zone in Taiwan, Nantou
highlights tea-making and tea cultivation processes
is good for almost half of the island’s production. Its
but also the influence of tea on Chinese and Taiwanese
main trading hub is the village of Lu Gu. Other Famous
culture.
places are the mountains of Dong Ding and Shan Lin
Xi, and the area near Sun Moon Lake. While the area’s
Mucha Mountain - Famous for its Tie Guan Yin tea,
oolong tea and Black tea is high quality, we’re afraid
grown in the same style as in China, thanks to two
to say that many of the other teas produced are quite
famous brothers who came here from Anxi.
mediocre.

Mount Dong Ding - One of the first tea growing areas Hsinchu
in Taiwan, Mount Dong Ding is now covered almost A small but famous tea producing area, Hsinchu is
entirely by tea plantations. The mountain is a famed home to darker oolong teas. It is most famous for tea
local tourist attraction filled with tea museums, that is bitten by hoppers: Oriental Beauty, called Bai
courses and an annual festival to celebrate the new Hao in Taiwan. Its most famous tea plantations are
harvest and keep gong fu cha tea brewing alive. The near the villages of Beipu and Emei.
tea gardens on the mountain (locals call them ting
tung) get very strong sunshine in the morning, but are
Chai Yi
completely covered by fog in the afternoon.
A newer tea growing area, famous for the Ali Shan and
Mount Shan Lin Xi - One of the highest tea Yu Shan Mountains. Chai Yi makes the famous Alishan
mountains, and one celebrated for its beauty oolong tea and Yin Xuan.
and nature.
Chai Yi County has majestic and broad scenery
Sun Moon Lake - An unbelievably beautiful lake surrounded by hills and waters, a landscape of lakes
surrounded by tea gardens. The region is famous for and seascapes.
its black tea that some call ‘red ruby,’ the ‘original
Taiwanese tea’ or the ‘authentic taste of Taiwan.’ Hualien
A small area on the east coast which makes all sorts
Taipei of teas, including floral ones, Hualien’s most famous
Taipai was once the biggest tea producing region region is Taitung.
in Taiwan, but due to economic and residential
development, tea has taken a step back. Now only Taichung
two famous regions that make truly exceptional tea A newer tea producing area most famous for its high-
remain; Pinglin and The Mucha Mountain. quality high mountain oolong teas. Best known for the
mountains: Li Shan and Da Yu Lin.
Pinglin - Close To Taipei and famous as the region’s
tea trade centre. Many residents of Taipei still visit Li Shan - Also called Pear Mountain, Li Shan is a
Pinglin to spend time in their famous tea shops. relatively new producing area previously known mostly
Pinglin is famous for Pouchong (or Bao Zhong) oolong for fruit trees.
tea, one of the few remaining strip style oolong teas
(most are available in the rolled or bead styles). Over
Da Yu Lin - This area’s peaks are among the highest
80% of residents of Pinglin are tea growers or involved
in the world and just like Li Shan relatively new to tea,
in the tea business.
boosted with the high demand for quality tea.

69
 Taiwan’s Famous Teas

Pouchong Baozong Oolong

70
 TAIWAN

Red Ruby
The famous number 18 or Ri Yue Tan Hong Cha.

Named after the famous cultivar ‘18’ this black tea

is also known as the original taste of Taiwanese tea.
The tea is full-bodied, smooth, minty, with a fruity
bouquet. Most Red Ruby, including the very best, is
grown near Sun Moon Lake.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Hong Yu No 18
From: Moon Lake Yuchi, Nantou, Taiwan
Harvested: October
Style: Famous number 18 Red Jade Taiwanese
black tea.
Founders Opinion: Minty mature goodness.
The farmers call this the original fragrance of
Taiwan.
I agree. A real must try.

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 TAIWAN

Wen Shan Bao Zhong

or Pouchong
A speciality of the Pinglin Village. Bao Zhong means ‘wrapped in paper’ which is a reference to the time this
tea was offered to the Chinese Emperor wrapped in paper of the emperor’s favourite colour. It’s a leaf oolong
tea that is very lightly oxidized by 10-20 percent, and has a very green herbaceous aroma and a lot of fruity
notes. The tea leaves are lightly baked to ensure that the bitter flavours are removed, leading to a gentler, more
balanced tea. It’s one of the few Taiwanese oolong teas that are not rolled into a ball but into gentle spirals. This
tea is truly one of a kind, and numerous people I met in my travels had “tried it once but never found it again.”
Well, they’d never found it again - until they met me!

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Chin Shin

From: Wen Shan, Taiwan
Harvested: April
Style: Classic strip style pouchong tea. Smooth
and sweet with floral hints.
Founders Opinion: Great thick mouthfeel and
refreshingly sweet.
Great to drink all day long.

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 TAIWAN

Gaba Oolong
Gaba oolong is named after the neurotransmitter
GABA that it should contain, and which according to
some calm down and unwinds a person, leading to
better thinking. But personally I am mostly interested
in the tea’s taste instead of any medical benefits.
Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:
This oolong tea has a fresh, soft aroma with a hint of Cultivar: Tie Guan Yin
cereals – while the taste contains hints of salt and
fresh vegetables, with a lasting sweet after-taste that From: Alishan, Taiwan
lingers on the tongue. Harvested: April
Style: Green floral oolong tea. Sweet and rich
Gaba Oolong boasts a unique orchid flavour with aroma.
a warm and woody aroma. The unique flavour and
quality of this tea is the result of a special oxidation Founders Opinion: Great aroma and a lasting
process developed by Japanese scientists. The result after-taste.
is a wonderfully calming flavour which you won’t find My favourite green oolong.
anywhere other than Taipei and Pingling.

73
 TAIWAN

Jin Xuan (Milk Oolong Tea

or Golden Lily)
Named after its cultivar (TTES12), Jin Xuan gives rich
buttery, cream-milk tones, with an amazing aroma.
Soft, subtle and accented with hints of vegetal flavour,
this silky smooth Oolong is loved for a refreshing
sweet and milky aroma.

Not to be confused with artificial ‘milk tea’ which is a

cheap tea flavoured with milk derivatives. Of course,
once tasted, you’d never confuse the two!

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Jin Xuan

From: Alishan, Taiwan
Harvested: November
Style: Jin Xuan Pure Oolong tea.
Founders Opinion: Typical silky-milk aroma
covered in sweetness.
Jin Xuan tea is often called Milk Oolong.

74
 TAIWAN

Four Season Si Ji Chun

Also called Evergreen, this oolong is harvested all
year long and praised for a fresh, green taste. The Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:
Chinese often call it Blue-Green tea meaning it’s a Cultivar: Si Ji Chun
very green or low oxidized oolong tea. It is nowadays
wide spread over Taiwan. In all manners of qualities, From: Alishan, Taiwan
like most teas. Harvested: April
Style: Green tea, lightly baked.
Taiwanese Oolongs are praised for their green,
fresh and crisp tastes, and this one is no different. Founders Opinion: An amazing daily tea with
Once brewed, this tea is sweet and light enough for soothing aromatics. Fresh and green.
beginners, but with hidden depths that even a true
tea connoisseur will appreciate.

Another reason for its popularity is the shorter

production process (shorter oxidation time and no
roasting) and all year long picking leading to a very
economical tea.

75
 TAIWAN

Oriental Beauty
Called Dongfang Meiren or Formosa Tea, Oriental Beauty is a delicate Taiwanese white tip oolong tea. This
oolong is famous for the green leafhoppers that munch on the leaves just before harvesting. Their biting causes
the plants to release L-Theanine producing a complex flavour both flowery and woody in this tea.

The tea is made from larger leaves and buds in the summer period, while most quality teas come out in spring
and sometimes Winter in Taiwan.

Delicate and rich, this tea is perfect for any occasion. Fragrant and with a sweet, floral aroma, Oriental
Beauty carries tons of honey and fruits which deliver a lasting after-taste. In western style it allows 6 or more
infusions, but many many more in gongfu style, it is personally my favourite all around tea.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Chin-hsin
From: Hsinchu, Taiwan
Harvested: October
Style: The famous Oriental Beauty.
Founders Opinion: Rich in caramel sweet
aroma. A full palate of delicate flavours and an
amazing after-taste.
The pinnacle of Taiwanese tea.
My favourite.

76
 TAIWAN

Taiwanese Tie Guan Yin

Tie Guan Yin tea plant was brought from Anxi of Fujian and planted in Muzha of the Wenshan District. In
1919 two brothers, Zhang Nai Miao and Zhang Nai Qian, brought back the tea trees from Anxi. Since then the
area has been well known for its mid-oxidation, mid-roast, tie guan yin style tea which is quite similar to the
original one grown in Fujian.

The flavour of this tea is mature and woody with a warming toasty overtone provided by the, slow roasting of
the tea leaves. This mellows to a honeyed, coating after-taste with a hint of spice.

This the result of traditional growing, harvesting and long roasting methods employed by artisan farmers in
one of the world’s most highly regarded tea growing areas.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Tie Guan Yin

From: Alishan, Taiwan
Harvested: April
Style: Authentic, made in traditional ways.
Founders Opinion: An old man once told me
this tea reminds him of the tea he used to drink
with his grandparents. Made in the traditional
way. A different class.

77
 TAIWAN

Alishan, Li Shan,
Shan Lin Xi, Dong Ding
Often known as Orchid or jade oolong teas, these are the product of Taiwan’s première oolong growing
regions and offer complex aromatics and a lush mouth-feel. Authentic teas from these regions grow high in
the mountains. In fact usually these teas are named after the mountain where the tea grew. In most cases it is
medium oxidized and with a light roasting, a fine in between of the floral sweet green oolongs and the warm
toasty notes with a buttery after-taste that stays with you, long after your cup is empty.

A prime example of these teas is from the Alishan: The flavour of this tea is soft and sweet with a warming
toasted grain overtone provided by the long, slow roasting of the tea leaves. This mellows to a honeyed, coating
after-taste with a hint of spice. This oolong tea provides the perfect pick-me-up for any tea lover.

78
 TAIWAN

Aged Teas
Like pu-erh teas a lot of oolong teas can be aged as well, but since there is more unoxidized leaf left it will age
in a quicker manner. Most farmers I have spoken to would say an aged oolong teas is at it’s best after between
two and five years of storage, although this depends on the exact circumstances as well as their personal
preferences. You can age your oolong teas for longer, but some flavour will fade even as the minerality of the
tea rises. I prefer mine slightly aged. In general, the more oxidized the oolong tea the better it is for aging, and
the longer the tea should be aged for. Green oolong teas are more like green teas and should usually be drunk
quickly, before the soft floral aroma fades entirely.

There’s more to Taiwan to oolong, but what do you think? Have you tried any of the less famous teas, or do
you find it hard to look past the famed oolong? How does Taiwan fare compared to China and Japan in the tea
producing stakes? Share your experiences with me. I’ll be sure to provide you with contact details in a later
chapter of this book.

Ya Hong De Tao

79
 Japan
The Art of Tea

Gyokuro Japanese Green Tea

As we’ve discovered in earlier chapters, the history of tea begins with China. But it
doesn’t end there. In fact, if I was to say to you the words “tea ceremony,” you wouldn’t
think of China at all! Instead, you’d think of another country synonymous with tea.

In this chapter, we’ll discuss that very country.

While tea culture began in China, it soon spread throughout Asia. Everywhere
Chinese sailors went, tea followed. And across the Yellow Sea, tea found a people who
wanted to embrace this drink and make it there own. They build a whole ceremonial
culture that survives to this very day.

Let’s discover the deep and meaningful history of tea in Japan.

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 JAPAN

The History of Japanese Tea

History credits the monk Saisho as being the man Between 1641 and 1853 Japan embraced a famous
who first brought tea leaves from China to Japan policy of isolation, preventing any contact between
during the Heian period, but while Saisho and other Japan and the outside world, including the tea
travellers brought leaves, it would take another producing regions of China.
visionary to sow the seeds of Japan’s true tea culture.
This forced Japan to discover its own way of tea which
Japan’s true tea culture only really started when the remained separate from Chinese culture. Japanese
monk Eisai (1141-1215) brought back tea-tree seeds teas such as Matcha and Gyokuro became more and
from a pilgrimage to China. He planted these seeds more popular, and Japanese tea makers began to
on the island of Kyushu and around the monasteries innovate new ways of preparing tea.
of Hakata, and Japan’s path to the way of tea began
in earnest. In 1738, Soen Nagatani created the steaming method
for green tea that is still being used to this day, to
Eisai and his contemporaries used tea mainly as a capture the freshness of the tea leaves. Even in 2018,
medicine, and used the same preparation methods as this method is still widely practiced all around
were common in China in that time. Monks and other the world.
wise tea drinkers would grind the tea leaves before
pouring hot water over them in a calming, To this day, almost all Japanese tea is drunk in Japan
zen process. itself, casually in restaurants (Bancha, Kukicha), in
smaller, more formal Groups (Sencha, Gyokuro), and
Eisai’s Zen lifestyle and ideas definitely contributed to in the tea ceremony (Matcha).
the ideas of the Japanese tea ceremony, and they are
still a key part of this ceremony almost a thousand However, as a global, modern country, Japan also
years later. imports a wide range of teas from all over the world
- and Matcha tea is becoming widely sought after far
Tea would then be planted on Honshu, near Kyoto, beyond Japan’s borders.
where monks would cultivate and use the plant in
the belief that it helped with meditation. Later on,
statesmen and intellectuals added tea into their
daily routine as well, followed by the famed Japanese
Samurai. You may remember that this is very similar
to the development of tea culture in China, as we
discussed in an earlier chapter, but as we’ll see,
history will take a different path in Japan.

In the 16th century, shading the tea plants from

sunlight with Tana canopies began – a process which
is the origin of today’s Matcha and Gyokuro teas.
In the 17th Century, the travelling Chinese Monk
Yin Yuan spread the way of loose leaf tea infusion in
Japan, but this link between China and Japan couldn’t
last forever.

Ceremonial Matcha

81
 JAPAN

The Japanese Way of Tea

Around the world, the most widespread technique used today to prevent the tea leaves from oxidizing is to
heat them by placing them with a heated surface, as if they were in a big frying pan.

Tea growers all over the world need to ensure that the leaves do not oxidise. From China to India and beyond,
most growers heat the leaves on a large heated surface, almost like a large frying pan. But in Japan, they do
things differently.

Unlike other tea growing nations, the Japanese focus on green teas (99.9% of the tea grown is green tea), and
they prepare it in a special way. They steam the leaves.

When you choose a Japanese green tea, you may see it described as one of the following:

Asamushi - “shallow steam” or “lightly steamed” - a quick, usually 20– 40-second steaming.

Chumushi - “medium steam” or Futsumushi “normal steam” - a 40–80 second steaming.

Fukamushi - “deep steam” - a longer steaming of 80 seconds or more.

The exact times spent steaming leaves varies from farmer to farmer, which is why terms go from shallow
(asamushi) to deep (fukamushi) instead of giving an exact steaming time.

Once steamed, rolled and dried, the tea leaves are called Aracha, and only need to be sorted before they can be
packed, distributed and enjoyed.

Japanese Sencha Green Tea

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 JAPAN

Japan’s Famous Tea Regions

Shizuoka Kyushu is also home to two up and coming regions
which make some small quantities of high-quality
Shizuoka is the biggest tea producing region of
tea: Miyazaki and Kumamoto.
Japan and is responsible for about half of Japan’s
tea production. The region’s proximity to the ocean
creates harsher weather conditions which are Nara and Mie
believed to produce better tea. Its speciality is sencha Less famous than other Japanese tea growing
but Shizuoka produces all kinds of tea. areas, teas from this region are mainly grown on
the Yamato Plateau at an altitude between 200m
Kyoto and 500m. They mostly make sencha, bancha and
kabusecha.
Kyoto is located in the middle of the island of Honshu.
Kyoto is quite mild in climate and is known as one
of the original places where Eisai first planted tea in Aichi
Japan. It is famous for its high-quality teas, especially The Aichi prefecture in Japan is located on the
matcha and gyokuro. southern coast of Honshu and bordered by Shizuoka
to the east and Mie to the west. Although it produces
The Island of Kyushu a smaller total volume of tea, and is less well-known
than Mie and Shizuoka, Aichi is still very important,
There are four famous tea regions on this island,
especially in producing matcha.
Kagoshima, Saga, Miyazaki and Fukuoka.

The climate is subtropical, allowing farmers to

grow a wide range of teas; sencha, bancha, kukicha,
kabusecha and gyokuro, as well as the famous local
speciality kamairicha.

Toji Pagoda in Kyoto.

83
 Japan’s Famous Teas

Ceremonial Matcha

84
 JAPAN

Sencha
This is the most widespread kind of Japanese green
tea, accounting for nearly 70 percent of the tea
produced in Japan.

It is produced almost everywhere in the country,

and a broad range of Sencha is available, from very
cheap to the most expensive of tea leaves. After
the steaming process, the tea leaves are rolled and
dried to remove humidity and give the leaves their
characteristic needle shape.

The result of these processes is called Aracha, which

is not yet a finished product. After a final preparation,
the Sencha ready to be enjoyed and will be distributed
using one of the following descriptions:

• Asamushi (light steam)

• Chumushi (medium steam)

• Futsumushi (normal steam)

• Fukamushi (deep steam)

Sencha is usually harvested 3 times a year From May

to September, with the first tea harvested being the
one that is the most refined.

Sencha is a refreshing green tea which carries hints of

fresh-cut grass, a mellow and sweet aroma, and is all
but guaranteed to refresh and revitalise tea drinkers
of all ages.

Sencha is delicate, tender and packed with aromatics

and minerals.

Even the shape of this tea is a nod to Japan’s tea-

drinking history, as the leaves are each rolled into
traditional tender needle shapes to preserve their
scent and flavour.

As with all Japanese green teas (besides bancha), you

must make sure to use lower water temperature of
about 60-80 degrees when steeping this tea, as these
leaves are very delicate and easily tend to over-brew.

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 JAPAN

Gyokuro, the Jade Dew

The pinnacle of Japanese tea art. Less than one Once can recognize gyokuro through its shiny dark
percent of Japan’s tea production is Gyokuro. What green needles.
makes Gyokuro different is the way it is treated just
before being picked. The tea plants are covered with Within a cup of gyokuro, complex flavours and
straw or cloth two to four weeks before the tea leaves aromas can be found, as a sweet and refreshing sip
are picked, so the plant only gets about 10-20 percent gives way to delicate buttery seaweed tones. This tea’s
of the sunshine that it would usually receive. The aroma will bring to mind the first green leaves
reasons for this are as follows: of spring.

• It forces the tea plant to make more green cells, in Gyokuro is also known as an umami tea, thanks to
order to catch more of the limited sunshine. a rich antioxidant and mineral content which adds a
depth of umami flavour.
• The plant tries to gather as many nutrients,
minerals and aromatics as it can, resulting in the
best possible leaf for a flavourful tea.

• It creates the typical fine ‘umami’ flavour - a taste

which is highly prized in traditional Japanese
cuisine. In this way gyokuro is Japanese tea and
Japanese cuisine at its peak.

This process of covering the tea plants produces tea

leaves that are rich in the theanine and amino acids
which cause the sweetness and umami unique to
Gyokuro. After picking, steaming and drying of these
tea leaves you have what we call “Tencha”, you can
either roll into needles (Gyokuro) or grind tencha into
a powder (matcha).

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 JAPAN

Matcha
The powdered Japanese green tea used in the famous Whisk this powder with your preheated bamboo
Japanese tea ceremony. First brought to Japan by the whisk in a fast “W” or “M” movement until it is
Zen monk Eisai who learned the methods for creating covered with foam. Move only your wrist when
it in China, as this was the way tea was usually whisking, not your arm, so that you are blending air
processed and drunk in China in his time. into the liquid.

Matcha is obtained by stone-grinding the Tencha Koicha

tea we discussed above to produce a powder. Like
Gyokuro, this is grown in the shade, before the leaves The espresso of matcha, this tea provides a full
are steamed and dried. intense experience and is often picked from older,
thicker tea bushes. Not for the faint of heart, this tea
is thick, intense and full of layers of flavour.
Matcha is the only famous tea that is drunk in
powder form. Usually we consider 3 ways of matcha.
To prepare thick tea, you need to prepare the matcha
bowl and matcha whisk first in the same way that you
Culinary Matcha prepare Usucha.
Picked from later larger leaves, this matcha has
a strong green flavour and less of the superfine Add about 4g of matcha into matcha bowl, then add
aromatics typical of higher grade matcha. It is most 30ml water (70°C).
commonly used in deserts but also makes the famous
matcha-latte when mixed with milk. Whisk slowly and gently in a circular 360 degree
movement. With Koicha the foam is much less
Then we have the two traditional ways ceremonial important but you mustn’t have any clumps
matcha is produced for use in the tea ceremony and of matcha. Instead, whisk until the powder is
as a daily drink. Both of these teas are from early completely dissolved in the liquid.
spring picking, which have the richest fine aroma
and flavour and lacki the stronger green flavour and
bitterness. As such, it can be enjoyed without any
additional ingredients.

Usucha
A thin ‘light green’ matcha with a lot of rich
aromatics (think of a latte rather than an espresso).
Often made with matcha from younger tea plants. It
is usually this matcha with the creamy light green
froth on top that most people associate with matcha.

Making an Usacha is simple.

Preheat the matcha bowl by filling one third of the

bowl with hot water, then put the whisk into the bowl
facing downwards to preheat and wet the whisk.

Add 2g of matcha (about 2 scoops with a standard

matcha scoop) into the bowl and add 60ml water
(70°C).

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 JAPAN

Kukicha (Bocha),
The Twig Tea
Twig tea is unique to Japan, where nothing is wasted Tamaryokucha - A tea from Kyushu known for the
and each part of the tea plant is used. Kukicha curly shape of its processed leaves. Tamaryokucha
is mainly made from the stems of the tea leaves, has a distinctive tangy taste and citrus aroma, and
which create a nutty tea which is often considered can be steamed or pan fired during preparation.
a side product of Sencha, Kabusecha or Gyokuro
production. It contains a lower amount of caffeine Arcaha - A tea that has not been sorted. This refers
and is easier to brew than other green teas. to all sorts of leaves which are then sorted and split
up into Sencha, Kukicha, Bancha or other varieties.
A special kind of this tea is made from the stems of Matcha and Gyokuro are usually separated and
Gyokuro, making it sweeter and more tender. This sorted before processing.
kind of tea is also called Karigane.

Unusual and often overlooked,this twig tea which

offers a sweet, rich and pleasing flavour to those who
try it. The mellow after-taste is free of any bitterness,
making it a firm favourite amongst those in the know.

(Bancha) Hôjicha - Japanese green tea, made from

later harvested larger roasted leaves and ferns of the
tea plant. It is usually thought of as an everyday tea
but if the best tea leaves are used it can be of excellent
quality comparable to many of the more special teas.

Genmaicha - A green tea combined with roasted

brown rice, this is historically a cheap and affordable
tea. The rice was essentially used as filler for those
who couldn’t afford pure tea, making it the tea of
choice for the common Japanese consumer.

Today this tea often contains matcha and is

appreciated for its unique grassy flavour and roasted
aroma. Look for a special grade with a bit of added
matcha for a layered flavour experience.

Combining sweet, toasty flavours with the freshness

of sencha and the umami of matcha, this is a full-
flavoured and silky smooth tea which can be
enjoyed daily.

This tea provides a toasty, rich and sweet taste with Genmaicha Rice Green Tea
no calories, only a medium amount of caffeine, and a
warm feeling of well-being.

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 JAPAN

Shincha - the first flush tea, picked earliest in the Tencha - unfinished Matcha or Gyokuro (high
season during the first few days of the first harvest. quality dried leaves from shaded plants) ready to be
This tea tends to be sweeter than later flushes, and rolled into Gyokuro or ground into Matcha.
is usually very minimally processed to ensure an
incredibly fresh taste. I firmly believe that Japanese teas can challenge
China for both quality and variety, but as with
It should be consumed in the first few weeks after everything in tea, you’ll make your own discoveries
harvest before the famed freshness begins to fade and as you try different teas. If you agree, or even if you
the quality of the tea drops. disagree, I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Kabusecha - A variant of sencha that is shaded for

one to two weeks before harvest. Essentially this tea
is half way between Sencha and Gyokuro.

Kamairicha - A tea which is pan-fired in the Chinese

style, this tends to be less bitter than steamed teas.
Kamairicha is known for its curved shape, instead of
the more usual needle-like form of Japanese tea.

Mecha - Another “side product tea,” Mecha is made

from the buds and tips of the tea plant early in
the spring.

Konacha - This is typically a low-grade tea made

from dust and leftovers from Sencha and Gyokuro
processing. Konacha is often served in sushi
restaurants.

Hojicha Bancha Hojicha Bancha leaves

89
 India and Nepal
The Legend of Chai

Assam Black Tea

If you’ve spent any time living in England or Ireland, two of the world’s largest per-
capita tea drinking countries, then you’ll have enjoyed mug after mug of Indian tea.
But there’s much more to the subcontinent than bags of British-named tea like Tetley
or Twinings. In this chapter, we’re heading to the subcontinent and delving deep into
India’s tea history.

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 INDIA

The History of Indian Tea

Historical records indicate that tea has been After spying on Chinese tea productions (with Robert
consumed in India since as far back as 750BC, as Fortune “acquiring” 20,000 saplings and 85 workers
locals enjoyed the native tea plants of the Assam in 1848), the British began to put the local population
jungles. However, tea was originally used more often to work.
as a cooking ingredient than as a beverage. Visiting
India in 1538, the Dutch explorer Jogn Hughen van In Assam, Nilgiri and Darjeeling, large parts of the
Linschoten noted that as well as boiling the leaves to jungle were cleared for tea production as the British
make a drink, Indians cooks would prepare tea leaves established plantations to provide an alternative to
with garlic and oil as a popular vegetable dish. expensive Chinese tea. It took a while for the Empire
to develop a taste for the Assam tea they viewed as
It was the 19th Century when India began to produce inferior, but tastes soon changed. Even in the United
tea on a commercial scale, all to meet the demands States (not a famed tea-drinking nation), by 1887
for the drink across the British Empire. Wary of more Indian than Chinese tea was being consumed.
trading too much with China, British merchants But while today’s large tea plantations are the result
made the decision to grow tea in colonial India. of the British Empire’s insatiable demand for tea,
After Robert Bruce was introduced to Indian tea by a India’s own tea history really starts with the drink
Singhpo chief, Bisa Gam in 1823, the overseers of the that Indians call chai.
British Raj realised that the local assamica tea plants
were far better suited to the region than expensive
Chinese sinensis teas. For some places - at least in
Darjeeling for example - the tea bushes are still the
Chinese ones, as high in the Himalayas the climate is
great for growing aromatic tea.

Tea plantations in Munnar, Kerala

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 INDIA

The Legend of Chai

Like any famous beverage the origins of Chai are steeped in legend.

The story says that an ancient Indian king had trouble remaining alert during long and challenging court
sessions. By boiling the leaves of the tea plant with water and spices, this king remained an alert and effective
ruler, and so Chai was born.

Over the coming centuries, travellers and traders from Gujarat, Maharashtra and Bengal would buy the leaves
and spices and add them to the high quality milk their regions of India were famed for. Soon, thanks to the
vigorous cross-country trade, sweet milky Chai would be the favoured drink of workers – a tradition that
remains to this day.

The British also left their mark on Chai. Typically, the gently spiced masala Chai is served as an afternoon
snack along with toast – a nod to both British and Indian tea drinking traditions.

The spices in Masala Chai change from region to region, but a typical Chai blend will contain cardamom,
cinnamon, ginger, cloves, pepper, mace and nutmeg. Wherever you go in India, a Chai-wallah (wandering Chai
seller) is certain to be close by!

Masala Chai

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 INDIA

Modern Indian Tea Production

In the 21st century, India is one of the world’s largest Resting - Resting the leaves on large plates and
tea producers and exporters, with over one million allowing the sun to dry them activates a number of
Indians employed in the tea industry. While much enzymes and reduces moisture content.
Indian tea, especially from Assam, is kept to produce
Chai for the local market, a huge proportion of Indian Rolling - This breaks down leaf membranes and
tea is exported to the British tea bag producers, releases oils. The more pressure applied to a leaf, the
keeping that country well supplied with black tea. more oil is released and the greater the effect of the
While British stores may have boxes of teabags next step…
proudly proclaiming that this is “Yorkshire Tea” or
“Lancashire Tea” or “English Breakfast Tea” - it’s a Oxidation - Once tea has been rolled, it is left in a
safe bet that these teas grew far closer to the River warm, humid place for between 30 minutes and four
Ganges than the Aire or the Irwell. hours. This affects the flavour and character of
the tea.
India’s most famed specialist tea producing region
is Darjeeling, although this region is suffering due Drying - The leaves are placed on large heated
to increased competition from neighbouring Nepal, platters, drying the leaves and stopping the oxidation
whose high peaks and climate make for ideal tea process entirely.
growing conditions.
Sorting - Finally, leaves are sifted and sorted to
For most Indian teas, two classes of production produce uniform leaves which allows for more precise
are used, although smaller artisan farmers do use steeping.
specialist methods for more specialist teas. The
production classes are: Both orthodox and CTC teas are then graded by leaf
size, quality and number of buds. This is rarely seen
CTC with speciality tea, but you may spot some of the
following abbreviations on commercial Indian teas:
“Crushing, Tearing and Curling” is an industrial
method developed by Sir William McKercher in 1930
SFTGFOP - Special fine tippy golden flowery orange
in an attempt to help what was still the British Raj
pekoe (smallest leaf)
compete with China.
FTGFOP - Fine tippy golden flowery orange pekoe
First, leaves are rested, then cut and crushed into
small pieces. These pieces are then torn into even
TGFOP - Tippy golden flowery orange pekoe
smaller pieces and rolled into beads. This makes a
tea which is perfect for use in tea bags, even though it
damages flavour and aroma, leading to a lower grade GFOP - Golden flowery orange Pekoe
tea. Not a problem for the average British tea drinker
with a mug full of stewed tea, milk and sugar, but FOP - Flowery orange pekoe (large leaf)
not a method tea connoisseurs will be too impressed
with! FP - Flowery pekoe

OP - Orange pekoe
Orthodox
For higher quality black teas, Indian producers still All tea production, certification, export and trade is
use the five steps developed by the British in the controlled by the Tea Board of India.
1860s:

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 INDIA

India and Nepal’s

Famous Tea Regions
Darjeeling The climate of Assam is tropical and wet, and
plantations are fed by the Brahmaputra River, making
High in the foothills in the Himalayas, lies Darjeeling
it ideal for large volume tea production. Assam
(land of storms).
produces more tea than any other region, and its
black teas are used heavily in classic English blends
The village of Darjeeling, is located 2000 meters above
and Indian Chai.
sea level and looks up to Mount Everest. The first tea
was planted here in 1856, and nowadays there are 100
Assam produces tea most of the year through from
tea plantations close to the village area is great for tea
April until October mostly from large factories.
with high, steep slopes perfect for drainage. It has a
mild winter and summer, and a lot of rainfall, perfect
for making quality tea. The fog that lies over the Sikkim
region protects plants from too much sunlight, which Similar in climate to Darjeeling, and lying to the
can be bad for young tea leaves. Today this is the north between Nepal and Bhutan, Sikkim was
most highly regarded tea production region in India, developed following a government program that
only tea grown here can be labelled as Darjeeling shared Darjeeling cultivars with the producers on the
Tea – “The Champagne of Black Teas.” These teas are India/Bhutan border.
something else, and have a very typical “muscatel”
aroma due to the high minality of the Himalayas. I
Nilgiri
always say that the only thing harder than describing
the taste of a fine Darjeeling is forgetting it! Located in South-eastern India, the Nilgiri Hills are
part of the Western Ghat range known as the “Blue
There are three quality harvests in Darjeeling. In Mountains.” This is India’s third-largest tea producing
Spring the famed first flush, in the summer the bold area, and plantations here grow a sweet, spicy tea for
second flush, and the autumn flush in October- the local market. The climate allows for a year-round
November. Usually the tea that is harvested is of the harvest, but with a main plucking season between
two leaf one bud tradition that I outlined in an earlier December and March.
chapter.
Two natural parks, Mudumalai National Park and
Mukurthi National Park, have been set up to preserve
Assam the area’s climate and natural beauty.
Assam, in the North East of India, is where the
famed tea cultivar Camellia Sinensis Assamica
was first discovered. This sturdy, large-leafed plant
produces full-bodied black teas, although recent
experimentation has delivered a number of Assam
white, green and oolong teas too.

Artisan Assam Tea

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 INDIA

Dooars
Dooars (which means “doorway”) is the gateway to North-east India and Bhutan. A tourist paradise with
tropical forests, meandering streams, and undulating plains, this wet region is also perfect for growing teas.
Dooars tea is usually clear, black and heavy, with tobacco undertones and brisk notes.

Kangra
The Kangra valley is located in the foothills of the Dhauladhar Mountains and subject to constant rainfall.
The local climate is perfect for organic tea, thanks to the region’s lack of pests and insects. Kangra is famed for
green and black teas.

Travancore
Originally a coffee-growing region, the Travancore region switched to tea cultivation after a leaf disease
crippled the local coffee plants in 1875. Nowadays Travancore produces fragrant, balanced teas with a reddish-
yellow liquor.

Munnar
6000 feet above the Idukki district, the hill station of Munnar is home to valleys, mountains, forests and
wildlife sanctuaries. It’s also home to amazing teas which produce golden yellow teas with a hint of fruit and a
sweet biscuit fragrance.

Women picking tea leaves in a tea plantation, Munnar

95
 India’s Famous Teas

Autumn Darjeeling

96
 INDIA

Darjeeling “First Flush”

Oolong Tea
Taken from the first harvest of Darjeeling as well often a bit earlier then other first flush darjeeling teas,
sometimes these teas are also called white tea although they are technically not white. Usually they have either
an early oxidation stop (similar to an oolong tea) or none at all (similar to a white tea)

When steeped, this tea produces a soft rich yellow liquor with a wonderful flowery, fruity, muscatel-sweet
fragrance. The smooth profile has no bitterness whatsoever. They are incredibly aromatic producing layers of
fruity flavour. A new development in Darjeeling and one they we completely support.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Ambari Vegative 2 (AV2)

From: Darjeeling, India
Harvested: March
Style: First Flush Oolong Darjeeling tea.
Founders Opinion: New and refreshing, this
oolong tea has a wonderful aroma and is softer
than the classic black tea.

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 INDIA

Darjeeling Second Flush

Running from the end of June until mid July, the
leaves for second flush are picked later in the season.
This tea is famous for its combination of mouth
feel and malty, fruity tones and aroma. They are
processed longer which helps develop a more mature
sweetness compared to the first flush.

These teas are full bodied like a classic black tea and
have a much stronger muscatel aroma then the first
flush. They have some warm aromatics, usually nuts,
brown sugar, cocoa and caramel like notes.

Some people think these are the pinnacle of

Darjeeling tea, and think the first flush is too light.
I’d just recommend trying all of them from different
origins, and find out your personal preference. As
with all teas, you’ll find that the “best” Darjeeling is
simply the one you enjoy most!

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 INDIA

Darjeeling Autumn Flush

Harvested after the monsoon rains and before winter in October and November, the autumn flush produces
even bigger leaves the second flush. These leaves used to be ignored as leftovers, but nowadays producers are
really raising the quality of this harvest, for those that want a softer-bodied version of the second flush. Usually
the oxidation is between the light first flush and the full bodied second flush, creating a new experience for
tea lovers.

Upon tasting this tea, you’ll notice dark chocolates, hints of vanilla and a sweet floral bouquet. There is some
boldness and a soft aroma an after-taste of hot vanilla and peppercorns.

Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:

Cultivar: Ambari Vegative 2 (AV2)

From: Darjeeling, India
Harvested: September
Style: Darjeeling black tea.
Founders Opinion: Great daily tea, sweet with
a distraction-free musical aroma. Good for three
steepings.

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 INDIA

Assam Black Tea

Along with the CTC teas mainly used for teabags, or Usually the best harvest of Assam is the summer
to create the traditional strong English tea blends one around June-July, although some like the spring
that are often drunk with milk, you have the rich harvest in April-May as well.
orthodox teas. These black teas are full bodied,
malty and (depending on the tea) filled with notes of The best grades have plenty of golden buds in the
chocolate or other mature sweet tastes like tobacco, tea leaves, like usual these enrich the tea with fine
berries, cherries, almonds and more. The liquid aromatics. But while these golden buds are an
produced by an Assam tea is nicely thick. indication of quality, remember that the presence of
buds doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the best of teas.
As a lover of all kinds of tea, I’m hoping these teas
will revive the rich history of Assam, as competing
on price is a large burden on a lot of large plantation
Here is an example of Valley Of Tea’s tea stock:
pickers (mostly women). The hard work of these
pickers should be rewarded, and it’d be a shame to Cultivar: Assamica
lose out on a fine tea tradition because plantation From: Assam, India
owners are unable to pay their workers.
Harvested: March
Style: Hand picked, full black Assam tea.
Founders Opinion: Lovely ‘breakfast’ artisan
tea. Hopefully Assam will make more.

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 INDIA

Nilgiri Tea
Traditionally producing large leafed teas with a sweet, spicy flavour, Nilgiri tea farms are starting small scale
production of special teas. While picking lasts through the year Mostly from January until June, the harvest in
January from the highest plantation are of a fine quality.

They have large leaves very herbal slight bitter flavours, with a good body and an intense green after-taste. A
unique tea you should try. I certainly enjoy a cup now and again!

Tea From Nepal

Nepal is nestled deep in the Himalayas, between tea bushes to those you’d find in Darjeeling.
China and India. In tea terms, Nepalese tea is very Pleasingly, this region - which is trying something
close to Darjeeling tea, which isn’t surprising when new - is rising in popularity, especially compared to
you see how close the regions are on a map. While Ilam and their Darjeeling copies.
Darjeeling has been privatised for decades this only
happened recently in Nepal, meaning that the teas If you have any questions about the teas of India
are beginning to improve in quality. and Nepal, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. I’m
especially interested to hear from anyone who’s tried
There are still some problems in Nepal, with poverty, a tea from one of the newer Nepalese producers.
political instability and poor infrastructure holding
the region (and its teas) back. But I believe that Nepal
will shine like never before in the coming years.

A lot of new estates have started planning recently,

and once those tea bushes are ready, I’m sure they
will lead to a huge wave of fine Nepalese tea coming
out onto the global market.

There are two main growing regions in Nepal; Ilam

and Dhankuta. Traditionally Nepalese plantations
have produced good quality CTC tea.

Ilam teas try to exactly copy Darjeeling, and while

they have had some success, I have unfortunately not
found anything that comes close to one of the best
teas from Darjeeling.

On the other hand, Dhankuta is interesting, making

their own high quality soft black tea using different

Himanlayan Finest Flowery tea

101
 Tea In Sri Lanka

A tea plantation near Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

In this chapter, we’ll take a look at another country in the Indian subcontinent with a
strong tea-producing history. In fact, despite the fact the fact that this region turned
to tea only after other cash crops has failed, its former name (the one given to it by
the British) is synonymous with tea.

Back then it was called Ceylon. Today, it is called Sri Lanka.

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 SRI LANKA

Sri Lanka hasn’t always been a tea-growing region. ruination of their coffee plants. Sir Arthur Conan
Cinnamon was the first cash crop supported by the Doyle (of Sherlock Holmes fame) remarked on the
colonial government, but soon Sri lanka turned to establishment of the tea plantations, “…the tea fields
coffee as their main export. of Ceylon are as true a monument to courage as is the
lion at Waterloo”.
Even this didn’t stick, as in the 1870s, coffee
plantations were devastated by a disease. This was Around 1930, the privatisations of tea estates started,
the end of the Sri Lanka’s time as a primarily coffee- and with them the quality of tea began to steadily
producing region, but even so, plantation owners improve - giving Ceylon tea a reputation throughout
didn’t switch straight over to growing tea.. Many Britain, her dominions and remaining colonies, and
products were developed in Sri lanka to replace the then the whole world.
coffee harvest, but most planters eventually switched
to tea, giving the island the nickname the “island Ceylon Tea
of tea.”
Sri Lanka, formerly known as Ceylon, is an amazing
James Taylor was ahead of his time and marked country for black tea production.
the birth of tea in Sri Lanka (at that time named
Ceylon) by starting a plantation in the Loolecondera While as usual the bulk of tea grown here is a lower
estate in Kandy in 1867. As with all British colonial quality product for export as teabags, some real
possessions, the products made would be shipped gems are to be found especially around the Central
back to the British Isles to be sold in Great Britain highlands. Other places produce volume tea for
and Ireland. export, mainly for tea bags and blends.

In 1873, the first shipment of Ceylon tea, a Ceylon is mostly known for its fruity black teas, which
consignment of some 23 lb (10 kg), arrived in London feature slightly less body then those in Assam but
to great acclaim - not just because of the quality boast a sweet elegant fruity aroma that stays
of the tea, but of the hardiness of the plantation with you.
owners who bounced back so quickly from the

A train ride through Sri Lanka.

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 SRI LANKA

The Main Tea

Producing Provinces
The island of Sri Lanka is basically divided down the Dimbula
middle by the Central Highlands, a mountain range
Located in the western part of the Central Highlands,
with peaks rising upward of 6,000 feet. As we learned
Dimbula tea grows at 3,500 to 5,000 feet. The area is
in India, Japan and China, these lofty peaks are
breathtakingly beautiful, with lush, thick and green
perfect for growing tea!
rainforests, abundant sunshine and magnificent
waterfalls surrounding the tea gardens. Dimbula
From January to May the eastern side of the island
peak tea season is from December to March when
is battered by monsoons, while the tea production
the monsoons are on the northern and eastern
on the western side peaks, then in July through
sides of the island, at which time in Dimbula the air
October it reverses and the production of eastern
remains cool and crisp.
side tea peaks as the western side is deluged with the
monsoon winds and rain.
Neighboring Nuwara Eliya lies at the foot of Sri
Lanka’s highest mountain, Pidurutalagala at 8,280
High Grown and Nuwara, Eliya and Uva feet (the highest elevation for growing Ceylon teas),
Province with their tea gardens located at about 6,000 feet.
A remarkably high 20% of Sri Lanka’s annual crop Nuwara Eliya teas are light, mellow, and floral,
is harvested in the highlands of Uva, Dimbula, Uda with an aroma of fruits, and a rich golden colour. In
Pussellawa and Nuwara Eliya. The teas cultivated fact, I’d proudly say that these teas are capable of
at these high altitudes are among Sri Lanka’s finest, competing with Darjeeling as some of the world’s very
benefiting from the fresh, thin mountain air slowing best black teas.
the leaves’ maturation and resulting in a more
complex and delicate flavour.

Tea production in Sri Lanka.

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 SRI LANKA

Here much of the tea grows on steep inclines, but the With the tropical climate and monsoon rains, the
workers seem to pay no heed to the tough conditions. tea bushes grow year round. This means there is no
first or second flush as is the norm, but rather the tea
Nuwara Eliya teas are also plucked during the dry bushes flush with new growth all year.
season of December to March during the time when
the tea’s quality peaks and is at its best. Kandy teas tend to produce a relatively bright
infusion with a coppery tone. Though lighter in the
The third high-grown region is Uva. Ranging in cup, they present a good deal of strength and body.
elevation from 2,800 to 6,000 feet, its tea is grown
on the easternmost slope of the Central Mountains. During the first quarter of the year, Kandy produces
Uva teas are also known for their mellow, yet brisk, the best quality tea. That’s because the first quarter
concentrated flavour, distinctive aroma, and rusty- receives cool, dry weather across the district which as
red coloured infusion. we’ve discussed in many regions, produces the
best tea.
Uva’s peak period is during the summer, June through
September. This is because while the monsoons Low Grown Ruhana and Sabaragamuwa
impact the southern and western regions, a dry, hot
wind called the Cachan, blows from the northeast Unfortunately, and this pains me to say, the lower
down into Uva and neighbouring Uda Pussellawa grown teas of Sri Lanka are honestly just not that
during late July and August. interesting. The teas here are nothing special, and
really not worth recommending.

Medium Grown Kandy, Matara and I do have hopes for the future, and many producers
Mulkirigala are branching out into high quality artisan teas, but
Medium-grown teas are usually medium bodied, for now I would certainly recommend focusing on Sri
brisk, and assertive, yet mellow, with a rich flavour Lanka’s high grown and medium grown teas!
and colour.

They are truly in the middle ground of Sri Lanka’s

tea-producing areas as at 2,000 feet the climate is not
as hot and humid as the low-grown areas, but still
warmer and more moist than the high-grown regions
discussed above.

Mid-grown teas from this region peak in the spring

when the monsoons are on the other half of the island
dumping copious amounts of rain (between 45”-70”
per year).

Tea picking in Sri Lanka

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How to Buy Tea
Tea is a personal experience. After all, tea is the If that’s your thing, good for you. You’ll already know
second most drunk beverage in the world, and it is which brands you prefer and where to buy them from,
being drunk in millions of ways every minute of every so I hope you’ll forgive me if I spend the rest of the
single day. chapter explaining things you might not know.

In this chapter, I’d like to explain how best to buy Namely, how to buy artisanal tea.
your tea. Now that doesn’t mean I’m going to tell you
just to choose the tea that I myself sell, or that you Artisan teas are different. They will change from
should throw away your teabags. All tea has a place, season to season, garden to garden and place to
whether it’s a teabag from one of the big brands, a place. If it’s a bad year there could be no tea of a
careful gourmet blend from one of the big chains, or particular quality in your preferred variety. On the
- the very teas that I specialise in - artisan tea from a one hand, that’s bad news, but on the other it does
particular harvest. give you an opportunity to try something new!

Teabags provide convenience and reliability and (just And you should try. In fact, you should discover as
like the gourmet blends) a set taste. You always know much as you can of these teas, as each experience
what you’re going to get with a teabag. will be different, sometimes wonderful, on the odd
occasion disappointing, but always interesting.
These are usually blended from teas taken from 10
gardens or more, to get a specific, consistent taste, so All teas have their place. All you need to do is find the
you can enjoy that each morning year in and year out. one that fits you.

Having tea in the Museum Of Tea

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The most important thing is good tea. Do you get information from the shop?
A customer recently asked me, “why do you provide so As said before, information is part of the experience.
much information with your teas?”
But I also say that the information they provide is
According to them, the only things that matter about an indication how much effort the owner put into
a particular tea is its taste. It does not matter where selecting the tea leaves and how much respect he
it comes from or how it was made, the history or the has for the craftsmanship of the farmers. In my
cultivar. It comes down to the flavour. experience at least there is certainly a correlation
between these two.
I said I agree,
Think about this for a second. You have two men in
But flavour is not determined your taste buds alone. front of you holding cups of tea for sale. You ask them
what they’re selling.
It’s that memory of the artisan farmer at work.
The comparison of teas past and present and the One explains that it’s a fine Da Hong Pao, that it’s
longing for teas yet to be. complex and floral, with warm roasted notes, and
It’s the puzzle of how this flavour has come to be, that it was grown high in Wuyi in China. He explains
That image of lush clean living tea fields as far as the that this oolong isn’t for everyone, but that if you tell
eye can see. him which other teas you like, he’ll be able to let you
The feeling of Emperors and dear family members know if he thinks you’ll enjoy it.
drinking tea with me.
The other just shrugs and says “Tea. From a bag.”
So yes.
Which of these men do you think has the better tea?
It IS all in the flavour of the tea.

But that flavour on your tongue is just the last step of

a long journey. And if you’re as interested in tea as I
am (and you must be to be reading my book) I’m sure
that before you buy, you’ll want to discover as much
of that journey as possible.

Before you buy any tea

from a tea seller, make
sure you do one simple
thing. Ask a question.
Any question.

Valley Of Tea’s ‘Famous Chinese Tea’ gift box.

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 All teas have their place. All you need to do is find the
one that fits you.

Is the staff knowledgeable and Pu-erh is like red wine, you can fill a cellar with it,
passionate about their tea? and then start to look for a new one before you even
think that you’ve bought enough. Some also buy this
Before you buy any tea from a tea seller, make tea as an investment tool, as it improves with age
sure you do one simple thing. Ask a question. Any (and proper storage) Just make sure you have a nice
question. place to store it.

If they take great care of you, and send a detailed

answer back, that is a sign they took that same care
How much should you spend on tea?
with their tea, and that they’ve ensured they’ve found This all depends on your budget. If you can only
a fine tea from a great harvest. afford to spend a few pounds or a few Euros on tea,
then only spend a few pounds or a few Euros. But if
you can afford more, you can seek out higher
How does the seller store their tea?
quality teas.
As I laid out in the storage guide near the beginning
of the book, tea must be stored carefully. And a Here’s how I think of it. £2 per gram may seem
tea selling company should use the same storage expensive, but that will buy you an amazing tea.
conditions that I’ve recommended to you. Just on a And you can steep those leaves at least three times.
larger scale. That’s far less than a pound per cup for an amazing,
wonderful cup of tea. Far less than you’d spend on a
If the company sells teas that are in large air-filled tea made with a teabag from Starbucks!
containers at room temperature, that could have
been there for a long period of time, that may not be And compare that to a fine glass of wine. Can you
the best tea to buy. imagine walking into a fine restaurant, ordering their
finest wine and handing over a few coins? Of
The company you buy from should have at least the course not!
same standards as you do.
Keep discovering new merchants but
How much tea should you buy? also makes sure to keep notes on your
This is a delicate question, and it’s an easy answer favourites.
for green tea and green oolong teas, since these
deteriorate quickly during the time passing since they As with all things, you’re likely to find a tea merchant
are harvested, the answer would be at most enough you like, who you trust, and who provides you with
to last you until the next harvest. amazing tea. Hopefully that merchant will be me.

Tea bags that are regularly opened should be But remember, the joy of tea is in exploration. So
finished as soon as they can since air will hasten the try new teas from new sellers, and broaden your
deterioration. horizons. But always keep a note of the best teas
you’ve enjoyed and the people who sold them to you.
For white tea or dark oolong teas, you can keep a And head back to them every once in a while.
stock for longer as these teas don’t deteriorate. Just
make sure you get a nice storage place away from
odours and moisture.

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Tea Community - How to
Contact Me
As I sit here, a few months away from turning thirty, I can’t help but be thankful for
everything I’ve experienced.

Thankful that I got to spend the last five years focussing on the thing I love tea.
I’m delighted that I could spend what I feel is the first chapter of my life on such a
rewarding topic.

Not that it was easy, but in hindsight each hindrance was a discovery and a journey: a
story in itself, all forming part of the bigger story I am writing with my life.

I felt that it is time to put my thoughts, experiences and feelings about tea here, in
this book.

As a thank you to all the customers that trusted me, and all the people that helped
me with things I am not good at.

I’d especially like to thank all of the farmers that invited me into their homes and
even shared their finest treasures with me. But most of all I’d like to thank my
parents for laying the groundwork and inspiring me to be the best I can be, and
helping me to be the man I should and want to be.

This is the end of the book, but it’s not the end of the journey. In fact, hopefully it’s the
beginning of your journey of tea.

I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it.

Tea for me is a journey that never stops.

If you want to go on the road I’m travelling, you can contact, or connect me on the
following channels.

www.valleyoftea.com - My shop, blog and newsletter on the latest harvest. Or email

me directly on [email protected].

I greatly look forward to meeting you.

Wouter

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