precvived ULTIMATE GUIDE TO:

‘House e

PLAN - DESIGN - BUILD 1g

“\\ New Revised Edition

John D. Wagner |

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 Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2022 with funding from
Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/nouseframingplanO0O0Owagn
 House
fe
r
John D. Wagner

CREATIVE HOMEOWNER®, Upper Saddle River, New Jersey

COPYRIGHT © 1998, 2005

CREYATIVE
H O M:E-O
WN ER
A Division of Federal Marketing Corp.
Upper Saddle River, NJ

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its en-

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including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure
to familiarize yourself with manufacturer's instructions for
tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project.
Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the
accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the
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misapplication, or typographical error.

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Manufactured in the United States of America

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House Framing: Plan, Design, Build, Second Edition

First published as House Framing
Library of Congress Control Number: 2004113487
ISBN-10: 1-5801 1-235-8
ISBN-13: 978-1-5801 1-235-2

CREATIVE HOMEOWNER®
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 manner Teo:

Although the methods in this book have been reviewed

for safety, it is not possible to overstate the importance ofusing the safest methods
you can. What follows are reminders—some do’s and don’ts of work safety—to use along with your common sense.

= Always use caution, care, and good judgment gw Always be aware that there is seldom enough
when following the procedures described in this time for your body’s reflexes to save you
book. € from injury from a power tool in a dangerous
= Always be sure that the electrical setup is safe, situation; everything happens too fast. Be
ee
Cu. alert!
that no circuit is overloaded, and that all power
tools and outlets are properly grounded. Do not = Always keep your hands away from the busi-
use power tools in wet locations. ness ends ofblades, cutters, and bits.
w Always read container labels on paints, solvents, w Always hold a circular saw firmly, usually with
and other products; provide ventilation; and both hands.
observe all other warnings.
w Always use a drill with an auxiliary handle to
= Always read the manufacturer’s instructions for control the torque when using large-size bits.
er a w Always check your local building codes when
m Use hold-downs and push sticks whenever pos- planning new construction. The codes are in-
sible when working on a table saw. Avoid work- tended to protect public safety and should be
ing short pieces if you can. observed to the letter.
w Always remove the key from any drill chuck m Never work with power tools when you are
(portable or press) before starting the drill. tired or when under the influence of alcohol or

w Always pay deliberate attention to how a tool OS

works so that you can avoid being injured. m Never cut tiny pieces of wood or pipe using a
power saw. When you need a small piece, saw
= Always know the limitations of your tools. Do ae
it from a securely clamped longer piece.
not try to force them to do what they were not
designed to do. w Never change a saw blade or a drill or router
bit unless the power cord is unplugged. Do not
m Always make sure that any adjustment is
depend on the switch being off. You might ac-
locked before proceeding. For example, always
cidentally hit it.
check the rip fence on a table saw or the bevel
adjustment on a portable saw before starting = Never work in insufficient lighting.
to work.
m Never work with dull tools. Have them sharp-
w Always clamp small pieces to a bench or other ened, or learn how to sharpen them yourself.
work surface when using a power tool.
m Never use a power tool on a workpiece large
w Always wear the appropriate rubber gloves or or small—that is not firmly supported.
work gloves when handling chemicals, moving
m Never saw a workpiece that spans a large dis-
or stacking lumber, working with concrete, or
tance between horses without close support on
doing heavy construction.
each side ofthe cut; the piece can bend, closing
m Always wear a disposable face mask when you on and jamming the blade, causing saw kick-
create dust by sawing or sanding. Use a special back.
filtering respirator when working with toxic
= When sawing, never support a workpiece from
substances and solvents. underneath with your leg or other part of your
= Always wear eye protection, especially when body.
using power tools or striking metal on metal or u Never carry sharp ot pointed tools, such as
concrete; a chip can fly off, for example, when eae Ue nicelae aes
7, are eae utility knives, awls, or chisels, in your pocket.
Same ; If you want to carry any ofthese tools, use a
w Never work while wearing loose clothing, special-purpose tool belt that has leather pock-
open cuffs, or jewelry; tie back long hair. ets and holders.
Contents

Introduction 8 CHAPTER 5
Framing Hardware 53
Section I NAILS 54
CONNECTORS & HURRICANE TIES 54
GETTING STARTED 10 ANCHOR BOLTS 56
CHAPTER 1 OTHER FASTENERS 59
House Framing Materials 12 CHAPTER 6
WORKING WITH WOOD 13 Essential Building Techniques 61
PLYWOOD 18 MEASURING ACCURATELY 62
ENGINEERED LUMBER 20
NAILING BASICS 63
CHAPTER 2 SAFE CIRCULAR-SAW USE 64
Engineering Basics 23 TROUBLESHOOTING LUMBER PROBLEMS 68
BUILDING LOADS 24
BEAMS, RAFTERS & COLLAR TIES 27 Section Il
BUILDING PLANS 31
BUILDING THE FRAME 7O
CHAPTER3
Framing Tools 37 CHAPTER7
MEASURING TOOLS 38 Floor Framing 72
LEVELS 39 STRUCTURAL SUPPORT 73
SQUARES 40 GIRDERS, BEAMS & POSTS 76
MARKING TOOLS 41 FLOOR JOISTS 81
HAND TOOLS 41 SUBFLOORS 90
POWER TOOLS 42 UNDERLAYMENT 92
CHAPTER 4 CHAPTER 8
Ladders, Scaffolds & Safety Walls & Partitions 93
Systems 45 WALL FRAMING 94
LADDERS 46 ROUGH OPENINGS 100
PLATFORM JACKS 48 WALL ASSEMBLY 102
SCAFFOLDS 50 SHEATHING 110
FALLARREST SYSTEMS 50 WINDOWS & DOORS 112
 CHAPTER 9 FRAMING THE LANDING 181
Gable-Roof Framing 121 MAKING THE STRINGERS 183
ROOF LOADS 122 ASSEMBLING THE STAIRS 184
ROOF PITCH & SLOPE 122 FINISHING THE STAIRS 186
CALCULATING RAFTER LENGTH 123 WINDER PROS & CONS 187
INSTALLING RIDGEBOARDS & RAFTERS 130 BUILDING A BASIC WINDER 187
TRUSSES 134 ADDING NOSINGS 189
SKYLIGHTS 137 DESIGN IDEAS FOR STAIRS 190
ROOF SHEATHING 138
CHAPTER 13
CHAPTER 10 Basement Framing 192
Shed, Hip & Gambrel Roofs 143 ESTIMATING MATERIALS 193
FRAMING SHED ROOFS 144 BASEMENT WALLS 193
HIP ROOFS 146 BASEMENT CEILINGS 197
GAMBREL ROOFS 153 BASEMENT FLOORS 199
CHAPTER 11 BEAMS, DUCTS, PIPES & COLUMNS 201

Framing Dormers 157 DESIGN IDEAS FOR BASEMENTS 204

GABLE DORMER 158 CHAPTER 14
SHED DORMER 161
Installing a Bay Window 206
BAY WINDOWS 207
Section Ill
DESIGN IDEAS FOR WINDOWS 213
FRAMING PROJECTS 164 PLANS TO HELP YOU BUILD YOUR
CHAPTER 12 DREAM HOME 216
Building Stairs 166 HOME PLANS 218
STRAIGHT-RUN BASICS 167
CALCULATING THE STAIRCASE SIZE 167
STAIRCASE INSTALLATION 171 RESOURCE GUIDE 228
BALUSTRADES 174 GLOSSARY 230
ABOUT LSHAPED STAIRS 179 INDEX 234
CALCULATING RISE & RUN 179 CREDITS/METRIC EQUIVALENTS 239
 Bh s38 kode ‘
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Ras RY Fas

latform framing is the most popular construc-

tion method used to build today’s houses. An
understanding of the techniques will not only help
you build a house, but the knowledge is indispensi-
ble for building additions, installing new windows
and doors, reorganizing your home’s floorplan, and
constructing garages, sheds, and other outbuildings.
The book is designed to walk the reader through
the basics of platform framing—from selecting the
proper tools and materials, tfo)laying out and er ct :

PTT

as it qeobe how to build various aspects O

framed structure. This is the heart of the be
with chapters devoted to framing floors, walls,
dormers, and roofs, including gable, hip, and
gambrel roofs. Section III covers three projects:
building stairs; framing a basement using steel
studs; and installing a bay window. A section of
home plans from a variety of designers appears at
the end of Section III. d as step-by-step fashion
where the text is sup}olemented by an illustration.
House Framing is designed to provide information Each task and project also begins by rating the level
in a cumulative fashion—one chapter adds to the _ of difficulty of the work to be done. The level of dif-
information that went before it. The actual framing _ ficulty is indicated by one, two, or three hammers:
 Pee jw IE
eM genes ott
a
arn olacanck nrame wo
AIEEE

® Easy, even for most beginners. ei WAA Difficult, but still doable by experienced
.
“t do-it-yourselfers who have mastered basic
WA, Challenging, but can be handled by do-it- construction skills and have the tools and
yourselfers with basic tools and carpentry time for the job. Consider consulting a
skills. specialist.
 @
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Getting
Started

1 House Framing Materials 12

2? Engineering Basics 23

3 Framing Tools 37

4 Ladders, Scaffolds & 45

Safety Systems

5 Framing Hardware 53

6 Essential Building 61
Techniques
ee

his book deals with platform

framing, the most popular
building technique used in house
construction. Platform framing is
popular because it requires rela-
tively small pieces of lumber to
construct a sturdy, long-lasting
building. That means that young
trees can provide the lumber
needed for construction. In addi-
tion, the smaller components are
easier to handle at the job site—
an important consideration for
both professional builders and
do-it-yourselfers.
Before learning the building tech- m4

niques of platform framing, it 1s b

4
pa

important to learn about the lum-

ber you will be using. The build- ieee?
ing and lumber industries have
developed systems for rating and
grading lumber components.
These systems ensure that the
lumber you select will meet local
building codes and will help you
construct a safe, durable building.

This chapter deals with the lan-

guage of the lumber business. It is an important skill in its
own right. Without it, you will not be able to order the ma-
terials you want and need, nor will you be able to commu-
nicate with the professionals you may hire for certain tasks.
With the information contained here, you'll not only be an
informed consumer, but you'll also be more familiar with
these various components when you read about them later
in the book and when you start to use them in framing a
house or addition.
 13
WORKING WITH WOOD

Working Softwoods come from fast-grow-

ing, cone-bearing trees called co-
order by species), ordering soft-
wood framing lumber generally
with Wood nifers, or evergreens. Usually less doesn’t require that you ask for a
expensive than hardwoods and specific species of wood. You sim-
Wood is one of the most important ply order by dimension and grade.
widely available at lumberyards,
materials you'll buy for your project, The lumberyard has already made a
softwoods account for nearly all the
so you should purchase the best- softwood choice for you by buying
lumber used in framing and con-
quality wood you can afford. Keep struction. Even though hardwoods whatever wood is available for your
in mind that you’d be wasting your are normally stronger region. The lumber is often simply
money buying expensive furniture- because they’re more dense, soft- stamped SPF for “spruce, pine, fir,”
quality hardwoods to frame a house, woods are plenty strong enough and can be any one of these soft-
just as you'd be wasting your time for house framing. wood species. To understand lum-
making furniture with framing-qual- ber and how to use it properly, you
ity lumber. Take a close look at this Douglas fir, hemlock, eastern white
need to know about the properties
section so you can learn enough pine, southern yellow pine, and of a tree and the milling process
about wood properties to be an edu- spruce are all softwoods commonly that turns it into lumber.
cated lumber buyer. used for framing houses. Douglas fir
is used for most rough construction,
especially along the Pacific Coast, Sapwood vs. Heartwood ad
ONI
JSNO
SIVIA
Hardwood vs. Softwood where it is milled, whereas in the There are two kinds of wood in all
Wood is generally divided into two south and east you're more likely to trees: sapwood and heartwood.
broad categories: hardwood and find southern pine. There are two Sapwood, as its name implies, car-
softwood. Common hardwoods other softwoods you might see, red- ries sap to the leaves. The heart-
include ash, birch, cherry, poplar, wood and western red cedar, that wood is the dense center of the tree.
black walnut, maple, northern red aren't normally used for framing be-
Trees that grow quickly (soft-
oak, and white oak. Hardwoods cause of their expense. These species
woods) tend to have disproportion-
are excellent for exterior siding, trim,
come from slow-growing deciduous ately more sapwood. In fact, young
and decks, however, because of their
trees, or trees that lose their leaves trees consist of almost all sapwood.
exceptional durability and natural
in winter; they are therefore expen- This is important to know because
resistance to decay.
sive and, in most cases, quite strong. when you buy lumber, sapwood
Many hardwoods have beautiful Sawmills cut softwoods into stan- and heartwood behave differently
grain patterns, and they’re well suit- dard dimensions and lengths, and in buildings. Heartwood, for in-
ed to woodworking—joining, shap- that’s why the lumber is sometimes stance, should be used in exposed
ing, and routing. You won’t be using called “dimension lumber.” Unlike conditions or as structural members
hardwoods for house framing. ordering hardwood (which you because it is stronger and more

Outer Bark
Branch Growth <p Ted As. ee SS
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(a .
Planks

YZ —==3.
y Wi
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Hi

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EE Heartwood
\SSS).
Se Sapwood

Sapwood vs. Heartwood. Because heartwood is stronger, it’s used for beams, wide boards, and structural lumber pieces.
Sapwood is used for planks and “light residential” lumber like studs.
14
HOUSE FRAMING MATERIALS

durable. Sapwood is better suited Plainsawn Lumber. For plain- lumber. If your lumberyard charges
for use as planks, siding, partition sawn wood, the log is simply you by the board foot, here’s how
wall studs, and other building cut lengthwise, from end to end, to figure it: Take the nominal thick-
components subjected to little or the way you cut cheese off a slab ness, multiply it by the nominal
no stress. And unless it’s treated, with a knife. This milling technique width and the length, and divide
sapwood is more susceptible to yields a kind of board that is en- by 12. A 10-foot 2x6 (usually writ-
decay than heartwood. tirely different from quartersawn ten 2x6 x 10' in the industry) would
boards, even when they’re cut from be 10 board feet.
the same log. In plainsawn boards,
Milling Methods the growth rings are at less than a Grading
Wood can be milled in one of 90-degree angle to the surface of
two ways, the quartersawn or the the board. This exposes more face Not all framing lumber is of the
plainsawn method. Plainsawn, or grain and makes the wood unstable same quality. Besides sapwood
and heartwood distinctions, many
flat-grained, lumber is the kind and more susceptible to warpage,
commonly used in framing; quar- cupping, and twisting. other wood features come into
tersawn wood, which can be costly, play, including moisture content,
is more common in hardwoods and strength, number of knots, and ap-
Milled Dimensions pearance. A standardized system
is used in premium furniture. The
difference between these woods lies A piece of lumber has two sizes: of lumber grading rates wood for
in how the wood is milled. nominal and actual. A 2x4 may many of these qualities. The lower
start out at 2x4 inches (its nominal the grade, the poorer the quality.
Quartersawn Lumber. For quar- size) when it comes off a log, but it
tersawn lumber, the log is first quar- Who grades the wood? That's left
soon shrinks when it is dried. Then up to the regional wood-inspection
tered lengthwise. Then the boards it shrinks again when it is planed.
are cut lengthwise out of each quar- bureaus, which have names like the
A 2x4 soon becomes 1/2 x 32 inch- Western Wood Products Associa-
ter-log section. This milling tech- es—the lumber’s actual size. For
nique produces a stable piece of tion or the Southern Pine Inspection
wood lengths, the nominal and ac- Bureau. No matter what body in-
wood that’s less prone to warpage tual lengths are almost always the
because the growth rings intersect spects the wood, however, the grad-
same. When you buy a 10-foot 2x4, ing system subscribes to the U.S.
the surface at a 90-degree angle and it is usually 10 feet long (plus an
are never fully exposed on the face Department of Commerce Ameri-
inch or two). can Softwood Lumber Standard,
of the board. Quartersawing yields
narrower boards, however, and Some lumberyards charge for lum- and the grading marks are stamped
wastes a high percentage of the log. ber by the board foot, though in- right on the lumber. The two most
Quartersawn boards often need to creasingly yards are charging by important grading characteristics
be special-ordered. the individual “stick,” or piece of are moisture content and strength.

NOMINAL & ACTUAL LUMBER SIZES

Nominal Size Actual Size Nominal Size Actu alSize
inches inches) (inches (inches)

ex 2 Ve WY2x 1%

Le asyph: 12 x 5” |

1x10 Ya x Vs 2x10 Wx 9%
Plainsawn Quartersawn
Milling Methods. Plainsawn wood (lef) exposes growth rings
on the face of the board and is susceptible to dimensional changes
caused by weathering and moisture. Quartersawn lumber (right) is 1x3% Ax4 3Y2 x 3%
more stable because growth rings are denser and less exposed.
 WORKING WITH WOOD

Moisture content is directly related dry,” lumber with a moisture con- ing, use No. 2 (Standard or Better)
to whether the lumber is kiln dried, tent of 19 percent; and “S-green,” for load-bearing walls and No. 3
air dried (with subcategories of S- lumber that has a moisture content (Utility) for nonload-bearing walls.
dry, S-green, and MC 15), or native of over 19 percent. Because it’s hard to sort this all
green. Lumber strength is divided out, and using utility lumber yields
Native Green Lumber.
into two categories: structural only marginal savings, you can
Available from local sawmills, the
and framing. safely buy No. 2 lumber for your
lumber’s moisture content is usu-
entire project.
Moisture Content. An important ally high because it’s sold unsea-
feature of framing lumber, mois- soned and it’s not cut as precisely All lumber has a high moisture
ture affects wood weight, shrinkage, as standard lumberyard lumber. A content when it is milled. So, it is
and strength. Moisture content is 2x8 can be 24 x 8/4, for instance, or either air dried or kiln dried for
the weight of the water in the wood, 2 x 7'/. It’s unpredictable. Addi- construction use. The acceptable
expressed as a percentage of the tionally, native green lumber is not maximum moisture content for
weight of the wood. Standing trees as Structurally stable as kiln-dried wood at a lumberyard is 19 per-
can have a moisture content of be- or air-dried dimension lumber. The cent. Often the grade stamp for
tween 30 and 200 percent, whereas wood is heavy and hard to work construction lumber will say
seasoned dimension lumber should with, and it cracks and splits as it “kiln-dried 19%.”
have a moisture content of below dries. Native green lumber is inex- Grade Stamps. All wood is as
ONIW
JSNOH
SIVIA
19 percent. Once the lumber’s mois- pensive, however, and you might stamped to let you know you have
EN
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RONIIE
SET
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NE
SEO
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AEA
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ture level is between 15 and 19 per- want to use it to frame rough struc- the right wood. A typical grade
cent, it is ready for use. In a heated tures like sheds or barns. Also, you stamp identifies the mill, the grad-
building, lumber ends up witha can nail it in place soaking wet ing service’s name, the moisture
moisture content of around 10 per- when you use it for board-and-bat- content, the grade, and the species.
cent, and it shrinks while drying. ten siding.
The mill identification number isn’t
Kiln drying or air drying is how Structural Grade. Lumber grad- really important. The same with
mills reach the goal of less than ing for structural grade lumber is the grading service. The species
19 percent moisture. As you can complex, with categories, grades, mark is mostly a curiosity, too, as
imagine, drying wood in a kiln is and subgrades. For most framing, the lumberyard has chosen what
more expensive than letting it air there are four lumber categories: species you'll use, based on what's
dry ina lumberyard. If it’s in your select structural, No. 1, No. 2, and available for your region. But look
budget to buy kiln-dried lumber, No. 3. The higher the number, the closely at the biggest word in the
it’s generally a better lumber prod- weaker the wood; the weaker the grading stamp. You should see a
uct. But air-dried lumber of nearly wood, the less distance you can word like STAND, which stands
the same moisture content can per- span. A 2x8 hemlock-fir “select for Standard, the grade you'll use
form just as well and costs less. structural” used as a joist and for standard household light fram-
framed 16 inches on center can ing. Next, look at the moisture des-
Kiln-Dried Lumber. The driest span 14 feet 2 inches, for instance, ignation. Here’s where you'll see
wood available, this lumber is oven- but a No. 3 grade can span only
dried at the saw mill to a moisture 11 feet. The wood gets weaker be-
content below 15 percent. Because Manufacturer
cause there are more knots and
kiln drying precisely controls the less consistent grain as you move
moisture content and shrinkage of away from the select structural
the wood, you can count on having grade. You also pay more for
stable, predictable lumber dimen- stronger wood. For structural
sions. Kiln-dried 24s have a consis- framing—joists, rafters, ridge-
tent actual size of 1/2 x 3% inches. boards—the ideal lumber grade
You'll pay more for this predictabili- is No. 2.
ty, however. You may be just as
When evaluating 24s, you'll find
well off with air-dried wood rated
that there are three other names for Agency Moisture Species
for a desirable moisture content.
the No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 cate- Certification Content Mark
Air-Dried Lumber. This kind of gories. “Construction” grade corre-
lumber is covered by three cate- sponds to No. 1; “Standard-Better,” Grade Stamps. A stamp identifies the
gories in official grading standards. to No. 2; and “Utility,” to No. 3. (A lumber’s grade, moisture content, and
“MC-15” means the lumber has a final category, “Economy,” is for species, along with the manufacturer
moisture content of 15 percent; “S- nonstructural use.) For wall fram- and grading agency.
16
HOUSE FRAMING MATERIALS

KD for kiln-dried, S-DRY, MC 15, signature green tint of CCA-treated Common Lumber Problems
or S-GRN. These are the moisture lumber is replaced by a brown
Shrinkage. As with any organic
content ratings mentioned earlier. color that eventually weathers to a
thing that gains and loses water,
gray color.
When you go toa lumberyard with wood swells when it is moist and
all this knowledge, you'll probably The other major difference is that shrinks as it dries. Wood also tends
be more informed than most of the there is some evidence that the to shrink in the direction of the an-
yard workers. But no matter how chemicals used to treat lumber are nual growth rings, or tangentially.
much you know, the lumberyard more corrosive than CCA. This That’s why plainsawn boards rare-
will have already made most fram- could be a problem with some ly grow or shrink in length, but
ing lumber choices for you, at least types of fasteners. Again, check can shrink substantially across their
in terms of species. You'll simply with the manufacturer about fas- widths. Shrinkage is a potential
specify the grade. Check the grad- tener selection. Some studies have problem with any lumber. The com-
ing stamp to make sure you've shown that stainless-steel fasteners bination of shrinking and swelling
picked up the right kind of wood. offer the best resistance to corro- can lead to warping (uneven shrink-
sion. A second choice may be nails ing during drying), checking (cracks
Pressure-Treated Lumber.
and screws treated with a polymer along growth rings), bowing (end-
Pressure-treated wood (PT) is lum-
coating if the fasteners are ap- to-end deviation from the plane of
ber that’s been soaked under pres-
proved by the supplier. the board’s wide face), twisting (spi-
sure with an insecticide and a
fungicide, which ward off pests and
decay, respectively. PT lumber is
mostly southern yellow pine, al- Defect Long View
though some other pines, firs, and
hemlocks are occasionally used.
These softwoods are selected be-
cause they are fast-growing, dense,
and structurally sound.
Types. In the past, the most com-
mon kind of PT wood was treated
with chromated copper arsenate
(CCA), a compound that chemical-
ly bonds with the wood. CCA-
treated lumber has a green tint
from the oxidation of the copper.
The retention level achieved during
treatment determined its use.
CCA (and to some extent, all chem-
ical treatments) are controversial.
Some studies have shown that it
dissolves back into the environ-
ment under certain circumstances.
Manufacturers of these products
have voluntarily withdrawn all
CCA-treated lumber from the resi-
dential market. To fill the void,
manufacturers have replaced CCA
products with those treated with
copper compounds. Most compa-
nies have their own proprietary
formulas and market the products
under different brand names. Pitch Pocket

Cautions. Check product data

sheets for proper uses of the new
treated lumber. One difference you
will notice right away it that the Lumber Defects. Inspect for these common defects when choosing lumber.
 17
WORKING WITH WOOD

ral or torsional distortion), and cup- beneath it, the stud may still be in Juvenile Wood. Given the de-
ping (deviation from a flat plane, the process of drying. As the stud mand on the nation’s forests for
edge to edge). Softwoods like pine, dries with the nail in it, it shrinks wood, many lumber companies
Douglas fir, and cedar are par- and you may get a nail pop, in have shortened their harvesting
ticularly vulnerable. With normal which the head of the nail pro- cycles or have planted fast-grow-
shrinkage, plainsawn eastern white trudes “i inch or so out from the ing trees. When these trees are har-
pine can shrink across its width drywall’s face. Here’s how you vested, they yield juvenile wood,
more than 6 percent. can get a nail pop: If a 2x6 stud is which can give you problems. Juve-
sold at 19-percent moisture con- nile wood encompasses the first
Nail Popping. Shrinking wood
tent, it is 5/2 inches wide. As it 5 to 20 annual growth rings of any
can cause problems way down the
dries down to around 10-percent tree, and when it’s used for lumber,
line. When you are installing dry-
moisture content, it may shrink it doesn’t have the same strength
wall, for example, and you nail
another % inch. This is especially as mature wood. You may get boun-
through the drywall into the stud
true of juvenile wood. A gap will cy floors, buckled walls, weakened
form between the wallboard and joints, and poorly fitting windows
the face of the stud, and when and doors. Even kiln-dried juvenile
Gap because
someone applies pressure on the wood can warp because of non-
of Shrinkage wall, perhaps just by leaning on uniform growth-ring distribution.
it, the nailhead will poke through. 8d
ONI
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JSNO
Inspect the lumber you’re buying
The way to avoid a nail pop is to and look for telltale signs of juvenile
use seasoned wood as close to the wood, such as uneven grain dis-
final moisture content as possible. tribution and warping, and refuse
To do that you have to buy quality, wood that is not up to par.
seasoned, mature lumber (harder
May pop if and harder to find these days) and Weather Protection. You can’t
pressure is properly store it on site, away from overestimate the importance of
applied to wall. properly stacking and storing wood,
ground moisture and rain. To truly
}
| Wet ih ehed
ie oe AR atl
ensure against wood shrinkage, both at the lumberyard (their re-
Nail Popping. Nail pops may occur store your framing lumber ina sponsibility) and after it’s delivered
when shrinking wood opens a gap be- heated place on site for as long as to the worksite (your responsibility).
tween the wall and the stud or joist. you possibly can before using it. Prepare a dry, sheltered location in

}a
\\

<f\\
Cups opposite to growth-ring orientation.

Anti
—
Note: Magnified Log Section.
Juvenile Wood. Juvenile wood has an uneven distri- Weather Protection. Storing wood off the ground and under a water-
bution of growth rings and is more prone to warping. proof tent is essential for maintaining good lumber quality.
18
HOUSE FRAMING MATERIALS

which to place your lumber when called the core. The core can be The smooth-faced structural parti-
it’s delivered. Allow air to pass all either veneer or solid lumber. Some cleboard (also called flakeboard
around the boards, especially the plywoods even have fiberglass or or chipboard) is simply a panel of
ends, but keep rain or snow off particleboard at their cores, but you wood particles held together by
them. It’s best to lay down pallets, won't be using these kinds of ply- hot-pressed resin. Some exterior-
use blocks to separate the rows of wood for sheathing. Veneer-core rated products have a layer of
boards, and build a 2x4 frame to sus- lumber is stronger than lumber-core resin or wax on the outside to re-
pend a polyethylene tent above the plywood, but lumber-core plywood pel water. The glue used in these
lumber for long storage. Locate this can hold a screw better at its edge. products is urea formaldehyde or
storage spot close to the worksite. phenol-formaldehyde adhesive.
Used in the right applications, ply-
Some building-code bodies, or or-
wood is strong and adds stiffness ganizations that determine mini-
to walls and strength to floors. As
Plywood wall sheathing, plywood is a vast
mum building specifications now
allow you to use structural particle-
Once you've chosen your framing improvement over the old style board as an underlayment, a sub-
lumber, you'll need to choose ply- of wall sheathing, nailing 1-inch
floor, or a roof deck.
wood for decking and sheathing. boards diagonally across the wall.
A relatively thin /-inch plywood- Waferboard is just like structural
Plywood comprises an odd num-
sheathed wall has twice the stiff- particleboard, except that the wood
ber of thin veneer layers of wood,
ness of a wall sheathed with 1-inch particles in these boards are all
called plies. The veneers are cross-
diagonal boards. Besides conven- 1 inches long. An exterior-grade
laminated, so that the grains of
tional sheathing plywood, you phenolic resin glues the particles
each ply run perpendicular to one
can buy treated, fire-retardant, together. Where codes allow, you
another. The veneers are glued and
and waterproof plywood for can also use these panels for sub-
sandwiched together and then
special applications. flooring, sheathing, and roofs.
heated to over 300 degrees F under
200 pounds per square inch (psi) Another panel material, OSB, also
of pressure. Standard plywood Other Panel Products uses strands of wood, but the layers
thicknesses are “16, %, As, 2, 2, %, are crossed, layer for layer, just as
Panel products other than ply-
“Yo, 7s, and 1% inches. If you order plywood is cross-laminated to give
wood, called nonveneer or reconsti-
/- and %-inch plywood for your it strength. The three to five layers
tuted wood-product panels, are
job, you'll most likely get '/%2- and of strands in OSB are bonded togeth-
sometimes used for sheathing. Some
*/2-inch plywood, respectively. er with phenolic resin. These pan-
of these panels are just as strong—
Panels are almost invariably 4 x 8 els have a smooth face and are often
and cheaper—than plywood. There
feet after factory trimming. Corner rated for structural applications.
are four types: structural particle-
to corner, panels can be off-square
board, waferboard, oriented-strand Composite board, which is basically
by %2 of an inch.
board (OSB), and composite board. a hybrid of plywood and particle-
Every piece of plywood has a face The products are called reconstitut- board, has a reconstituted wood
veneer and a back veneer. These are ed because they’re made from wood center but a face and back of ply-
the outside plies. The plies under particles or wood strands that are wood veneer. Where codes allow,
the face and back veneers are called bonded together with adhesive into you can use composite-board wall
crossbands, and the center ply is 4 x 8-foot sheets. sheathing and floor underlayments.
> a PS => =

a Fee ae _— a 4 Face Fly

” > i.

\ \\

Veneer Core — Core of Lumber

Strips

Back Fly Back Ply

Plywood. Plywood is made by cross-laminating thin veneers or “plies” of wood. The core of plywood can be either a veneer ply
or a lumber ply.
 19
PLYWOOD

Rating Panel Products

When you purchase structural panels,
a grading label tells you what you're |
buying. The leading grading associa- RATED SHEATHING ——— Fare! Grade
tion is the APA—The Engineered
Span Rating 32/1 6 1 5/32 INCH — Thickness
Wood Association and it’s their
stamp you're most likely to see. ~ SIZED FOR SPACING
Panel Grade. Panel products are EXPOSURE 1 Exposure
also rated in a number of other cate- Mill Number Classification
gories. If you look at a typical APA
grade stamp, you'll see the panel Code Recognition NER-QA397 PRP-108 Performance-Rated
grade on the top line. This entry des- (National Evalu- Panel Standard
ation Report)
ignates the proper application for
the panel—rated sheathing, rated Rating Panel Products. A typical plywood grade stamp indicates the panel
flooring, rated underlayment, and grade, thickness, and span rating; assures the buyer of code compliance; and identi-
the like. fies the grading body and the mill.
Span Rating. Next you'll see a as
ONI
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JSNO
large number or numbers, indicat-
PLYWOOD VENEER GRADES (4 x 8-Foot Panels)
ing the span rating. This rating is
Smooth, paintable. Not more than 18 neatly made
the recommended center-to-center A repairs, boat, sled, or router type, and parallel to grain,
spacing in inches of studs/joists/ permitted. May be used for natural finish in less-de-
rafters over which you can place manding applications.
the panel. If you see numbers like
32/16, the left number gives the max-
Solid surface. Shims, circular repair plugs and tight
B knots to 1 inch across grain permitted. Some minor
imum spacing in inches of the panel
splits permitted.
when used in roofing (32 inches of
allowable span along the side of the Improved C veneer with splits limited to /-inch width
panel with three or more supports), C Plugged and knotholes and borer holes limited to 4 x '/ inch.
and the right number gives the max-
Admits some broken grain. Synthetic repairs permitted.
imum spacing when the panel is Tight knots to 1% inches. Knotholes to 1 inch across
used as subflooring (16 inches of al- grain and some to 11 inches if total width of knots and
lowable span along the side of the C knotholes is within specified limits. Synthetic or wood
panel with three or more supports). repairs. Discoloration and sanding eee that do not
impair strength permitted. Limited splits allowed. Stitch-
Thickness. In addition, the grade ing permitted.
stamp identifies the actual thick-
Knots and knotholes to 22-inch width across grain and
ness of the panel, often in thirty- D Y2 inch larger within specified limits. Limited splits are
seconds of an inch—% inch, “6 permitted. Stitching permitted. Limited to Interior and
inch, '%42 inch, 7/42 inch, and so on. Exposure | panels.
Exposure. The stamp also lists the
Source: APA—The Engineered Wood Association
exposure and durability classifica-
tion for plywood: Exterior indicates
exposure to weather is possible;
(PRP)—indicate that the panel face of select woods with no de-
Exposure 1 designates suitability
meets all construction require- fects, but you won't be using N in
for wall and roof sheathing;
ments and requisite codes. framing. It’s for use in cabinetry.
Exposure 2, for applications that
For construction-grade plywood,
will have low moisture exposure, Veneer Grades. Plywood is also the face-and-back-veneer grades
such as subfloors. rated for veneer grades, and that are combinations of letters. B-C, for
Mill and Standards Numbers. rating appears on the edge of the example, is suitable for sheathing,
The mill number simply identifies plywood, using combinations of while you’d use A-B when both the
the manufacturer. The remaining letters. There are six categories in face and back veneers will show.
numbers on the label—national veneer ratings: N, A, B, C Plugged, A-C or A-D is suitable when only
evaluation report (NER), and per- C, and D, indicating descending the A side will show, and C-D is
formance-rated panel standard order of quality. N is a smooth sur- used for concrete forms.
20
HOUSE FRAMING MATERIALS

Engineered
Lumber Glue-Laminated Beam

There are a number of engineered,

non-wood, and steel products that
you can successfully use when
framing a house. Some of these
prod ucts were created in response
to declining wood quality and rising
costs. High-quality long beams of
Douglas fir are expensive and must
be special-ordered. Other non-wood Glued Finger
Joints
products were created to respond to
the span requirements of changing
house designs that include open
floor plans, cantilevered decks and
lofts, and overhanging roofs. These
Note: Laminated beams are not pressure
engineered products include glue- treated or fire-retardant as a general rule.
laminated lumber, laminated-ve-
neer-lumber, and parallel-strand
beams. Be aware that you must use
these products in strict accordance
with manufacturers’ span specifica-
tions. In addition, you must install
them with special connectors and
specified techniques.

Glue-Laminated Lumber
A glue-laminated beam is a built-
up product, a beam made up of
smaller pieces of wood glued to-
gether lengthwise with waterproof
glue. For example, six 2x4s, each
measuring 1/ x 3/ inches, will cre- Glue-Laminated Lumber. Built up of finger-jointed dimensional lumber that must
ate a 9 x 32-inch beam. To make a be engineered (sized) for your application, glue-laminated lumber can be assembled
beam, high-quality lumber is fin- in two configurations, depending on the span and load of the application.
ger-jointed together and stacked.
Finger-jointing is a technique used headers, floor girders, and garage- headers, the horizontal structural
to join wood end to end in a single door headers. It comes in three supports above doors and win-
member. The ends of component appearance grades, which have dows. These beams are made to
wood pieces are cut to look like fin- nothing to do with strength: indus- standard framing widths and are
gers and glued together. trial, architectural, and premium. designed to bear residential loads.
Industrial-grade beams are simply They also have a slight bow, called
Glue-laminated lumber can be as planed to a uniform dimension. The a crown, which you must install
long as you like—25 feet or longer. wood may have checks and knot- upward. The top side is labeled on
Each beam is specifically engineered holes. Architectural-grade beams the wrapper.
to support the intended building have been sanded on all four sides,
load: for heavier loads, the beam
Connectors. No matter what kind
and blemishes have been filled.
may use a more supportive compo-
of glue-laminated lumber you in-
Premium-grade beams have had all
stall, you can’t just nail it in place.
nent configuration, heavier com- defects and blemishes fixed. All
You may be required to use fram-
ponent pieces, or more boards three kinds of lumber are dried, then
ing connectors, shear plates, thread-
glued together. wrapped in watertight wrapping.
ed rods, nail-on clips, or hangers.
Appearance Grades. You can Residential Grade. Residential- Be sure to double-check the manu-
use glue-laminated lumber, hidden sized, glue-laminated lumber is a facturers’ installation requirements
or exposed, as ridge beams, purlins, similar product made to replace and span ratings.
 21
ENGINEERED LUMBER

Cost. Glue-laminated beams are

30 to 50 percent more expensive
than beams built up out of framing
lumber. For shorter length applica-
tions, like headers, you'll find that
a beam made of face-nailed conven-
tional lumber is more economical.
For longer spans, such as garage
door headers or the structural ridge
beams for large open rooms, howev-
er, glue-laminated beams offer a
price advantage and dramatic labor
savings. If you frame a span of
30 feet with a glue-laminated beam,
you'll surely save money on labor Laminated-Veneer Lumber. An LV1 is Parallel-Strand Lumber. Made from
and materials over comparable a beam composed of plywood-like pieces strands of softwood lumber, these engi-
“stick-built” framing systems. You'll of lumber glued together side by side. neered beams may be up to 7 in. thick.
also gain design versatility, which
as
JSNOH
ONIW
SIVIA
you can’t always put a price on. “-inch-thick plies together to a thick- are glued together running parallel
A stick-built framing system ina ness of 44 inches. You'll have to con- to one another, hence the name par-
30-foot-wide room would not allow sult with the manufacturers’ span allel-strand lumber. These beams
for wide-open spaces, as you would charts to determine the size LVL to are more dimensionally stable than
have to divide the room up with use on your job. Even when you get LVLs or glue-laminated lumber
partition walls to support the roof. the span rating down, be careful, be- beams, and they serve in the same
With a glue-laminated beam, which cause you can’t notch or drill LVLs framing applications. Parallel-
can span 30 feet, you can keep that for pipes, wires, and heating or air- strand lumber tends not to cup or
space open. conditioning ducts, and you have to twist when it is stored, which is a
use the proper framing connectors. potential problem with some glue-
laminated beams and LVLs.
Laminated-Veneer Lumber
Parallel-Strand Lumber
Another commonly available engi- Wood I-Beams
neered wood material is laminated- Parallel-strand lumber is a kind of
veneer lumber (LVL). You'll use engineered beam that can be be- Another popular engineered
these beams where you would tween 1% and 7 inches thick. The product, wood I-beams are dead-
have used steel or an oversize glue- beams are made of matchstick- straight, dimensionally stable, and
laminated beam. They are made, like strands of Douglas fir and/or ideal for longer spans, say 24 feet.
as their name implies, by laminating southern yellow pine. The strands I-beams are light and can be in-

Framing Connector

NX |

Wood I-Beams. Made with fir rails and /2-in. plywood or OSB webs, wood I-beams can take the place of costly lumber beams.
Web stiffeners and framing connectors may be required.
HOUSE FRAMING MATERIALS

Stud-Track Connection

Drywall or Sheathing

‘ane
Steel Studs. An affordable alternative to conventional framing lumber, particularly in partition walls, steel studs are dimensional-
ly stable, consistent in quality, light in weight, and perhaps most important, fireproof. U-shaped tracks act as top and bottom
plates and are sized to accept the web of the studs. You can attach studs with clips, screws, or a crimping tool.

stalled by just two people. The web, Steel has become more and more which are nonload-bearing, made of
or center, of a wood I-beam is typi- economical as wood prices escalate 25-gauge steel or galvanized steel,
cally “-inch plywood or OSB, and and quality plummets. An 8-foot and typical for most residential ap-
the 2-inch rails at top and bottom residential-grade steel stud costs plications. Load-bearing LB structur-
are fir. Wood I-beams come in four about $1.55, compared with a simi- al studs are heavier. All studs have
sizes: 92, 11%, 14, and 16 inches lar-size wood stud costing between flat flanges (stud widths range from
deep. You can simply nail them in $1.50 and $2. The advantage of steel 1% to 6 inches) into which you screw
place in many applications, or use is that it is predictable. Every stud drywall or plywood with 8-gauge
commonly available connectors and is precisely the same. There is no self-tapping screws made to pene-
hangers in others. The manufactur- shrinkage or warping, and no added trate the steel studs. For framing an
ers of these products will provide expense of building a sheltered area entire house, you may be better off
design help and technical support. in which to store them. Once you get sticking with wood studs. You need
the installation process down, you some special tools for steel studs,
rafters, and joists, and you have to
Steel Studs can put these walls up just as fast as
you would put up wood studs. make special accommodations to in-
Steel studs are another kind of engi- stall your utilities. But for small pro-
neered product designed to replace Steel studs commonly fall into two jects like partitions and basements,
traditional wood framing members. categories: NLB drywall studs, steel studs are great.
 2

Bo need to stand up
on their own and support
the weight of anything that is in
them, including furniture, peo-
ple, the roof above, and any snow
that accumulates on the roof. A
lot of science goes into building a
=> j
house.
Fortunately, you don’t have to
engineer your building from
scratch. The engineering and siz-
ing of component pieces have al-
ready been done by architects,
engineers, and designers. Even
better, the standardized building
ca i: specifications they’ve come up
— = » with have been worked through
SS using careful math and have
been tested over the years in the construction of thou-
sands of real buildings. The resulting structural engineer-
ing “common knowledge” is readily available in
easy-to-read tables and charts that specify beam, rafter,
and stud sizes, along with their maximum allowable
loads and spans. All this information is used in drawing
the blueprints for the house—the plan from which you'll
build the structure. It is also used by building code offi-
cials during inspections.
24
ENGINEERING BASICS

Building Loads when the wind gusts, the earth

quakes, or the foundation shifts
deflection can distort a window or
door in its frame. If the structure’s
There are five different types of because of events like soil washout. walls sag, you could end up with
forces, or “loads,” that any struc- A point load is the downward force bulging picture windows or other
ture must be able to withstand: exerted by a single heavy thing in- large fixed windows. If windows
dead load, live load, shear load, side or on top of the structure, such bulge, the seals around or between
point load, and spread load. Some as a fireplace, hot tub, or water the panes can break. Broken seals
of these forces are the natural re- heater. Lastly, there is the spread allow moisture and cold air to enter
sult of gravity tugging at the build- load, the outward force on walls the building—defeating the energy
ing, dragging it down. Some are caused by the downward-and-out- savings you paid a fortune for
the result of wind gusts, snow loads, ward force of rafters, usually be- when you bought those windows.
or ground movement. cause of heavy snow pressing down If the ridgeboard on the roof sags
on the roof. under a load, then your structure
Defining Loads will not only look bad, but you'll
If your structure isn’t prepared to get cracks in the walls and perhaps
The weight of the building itself— handle these loads, it could cave in some stuck doors and windows. If
the framing lumber, nails, shingles, or suffer partial collapse or failure. the deflection occurs in floors, usu-
glass, doors, and the like—makes More likely, the framing members ally because of undersized joists,
up the dead load of part of a struc- will bend under the loads. This you'll feel a bounce when you walk.
ture. The live load is the weight of bending is known as deflection. Bouncy floors usually won’t cause
people in the building, along with a building to collapse, but they can
anything they bring into the build-
Deflection make you feel uneasy.
ing, such as wood stoves, couches,
dining room sets, or dance parties. Deflection can cause at least four Dealing with the various loads that
The third type of load, shear load, types of problems with any framed act on a house really means pre-
is the force the building encounters structure. If the structure itself sags, venting deflection. First, use prop-
er building-design practices, with
proper spacing and alignment of
i framing members so that you create
Spread Load <
Snow
clean load paths. Second, use ap-
propriate-grade, properly sized
framing lumber. Third, follow
building codes closely; for exam-
Shear Load
ple, do not skimp on nailing.

Load Paths
The most common framing design
errors concern load paths. A load
path is the route that loads take
through the house as the load exerts
its force downward on the struc-
ture. Load paths must be straight
vertical lines from the top of the
structure to the foundation. If the
load paths are not vertical or con-
y Point Load E Live Lo ad
tinuous, loads may bear on areas
Point Load
of the building that are not able
Shear Load —H to support them. The result is un-
wanted deflection.
Common broken-load-path scenar-
ios include misplaced rafter struts,
misaligned bearing walls, and un-
supported columns not carried
through to the foundation. These
Defining Loads. The combined loading on a typical structure can be substantial and framing errors, described in more
must be accounted for with proper design practices and proper beam and lumber sizing. detail below, may seem obvious.
 BUILDING LOADS

Deflection Bearing Wall

|
Misplaced Struts. When placing rafter struts, be sure they fall on a bearing wall, otherwise you may deflect the joist. Struts
must meet the joists at no less than a 45-degree angle.

But even experienced builders

make mistakes in interpreting
building design and work them-
selves into predicaments with
no good solutions. The more C
complicated the structure—with
overhangs, cantilevered porches,
or large open spaces—the more
complicated the resulting design
and load-path transfers will be.
Building design is not for ama- Deflection
teurs. If you’re not working from
designer- or architect-approved
plans, have them looked over by
a structural engineer. Also, never ONIYS
SOISVE
modify existing plans that an ar-
chitect or engineer has already
approved. Buildings are complex
structures, with interrelated com-
ponents. If you choose to remove
a wall or even move it 12 inches
from its place in the original engi-
neered plans, you can change the
entire dynamic of the structure
and possibly cause a failure later
down the line.
Misplaced Struts. When framing
any roof—but especially irregular
roofs—you may want to install
a mid-rafter strut, or support, be-
tween a long rafter and the attic
floor. That’s perfectly acceptable
practice, but only if the strut lands
on a bearing wall. Bearing walls
can support loads from above, as
opposed to partition walls, which
simply divide space.
Misaligned Bearing Walls.
Bearing walls must transfer loads Misaligned Bearing Walls. Make sure the load paths are in straight vertical lines
through the structure to the foun- throughout the wall systems in any structure. A wall built on top of a floor that is not it
dation in vertical lines. If the load self supported may deflect the floor joists (top). If it’s impossible for bearing walls to line
paths are not vertical (within an up, the wall should be placed no farther away from the joist end than the depth of the
acceptable small margin of error), joist (bottom left). When a bearing wall rests on a cantilever, the distance it extends be-
the joists will end up taking on the yond the supporting wall should not be greater than the depth of the joist (bottom right).
26
ENGINEERING BASICS

weight that the walls were de-

signed to absorb and transfer to
the foundation. The possible re-
sults are joist failures, including
splits, severe deflection, and prob-
lems with cracks in drywall and
gaps in floorboards. In severe
cases, broken load paths can
make a building collapse.

| Co lumn
|
H| j
Columns. A column used to sup-
|i
1
ji
| port a second-story floor must be
| supported from below so it can
transfer the weight of the up-
Column
Fortified per floors to the foundation. If a
Foundation column supports a second-story
Pad
floor without being supported
Bo i ara eens Seep aetijes rae [Oa | = from below, then the first-floor
Columns. Attic or upper floor loads supported by a column will deflect the floor that sup- joists end up carrying an inordi-
ports the column, unless the column is itself supported all the way down to the foundation. nate amount of weight.

FLOOR JOIST SPAN RATINGS (Feet & Inches) _

2x8 2x10 2x12

Species Grade 16"0.c. 24"o.c. | 16"0.c. 24"o.c. | 16"0.c. 2A"0.c.
Douglas Fir—Larch 2 13-1 11-3 16-9 14-5 20-4 17-6
S 10-7 8-8 13-6 11-0 16-5 13-5

Douglas Fir—South 2 12-0 10-6 15-3 13-4 18-7 16-3

3 10-3 8-4 13-] 10-8 1-11 13-0

Hemlock/Fir 2 12-3 10-0 15-8 12-10 19-] 15-7

3 9-5 7-8 12-0 9-10 14-7 11-11

Mountain Hemlock 2 11-4 9-1] 14-6 12-8 17-7 15-4

5 oT 7-10 12-3 10-0 14-11 12-2

Western Hemlock 2 12-3 10-6 15-8 13-4 19-1 16-3

3 9-11 8-] 12-8 10-4 15-5 12-7

Engelmann Spruce/ 2 11-2 9-1 14-3 11-7 17-3 14-2

Alpine Fir 3 8-6 6-11] 10-10 8-10 13-2 10-9

Lodgepole Pine Z 11-8 9-7 14-11] 12-3 18-] 14-1]

3 9-1 7-5 11-7 9-5 14-1 11-6

Ponderosa Pine/ Zz 11-4 9-3 14-5 11-9 erg 14-4

Sugar Pine 3 8-8 7-| 11-1 9-] 13-6 11-0
Western Wood Products Association

Design Criteria:
Strength—10-psf dead load plus 40-psf live load
Deflection—Limited to span in inches divided by 360 for live load only
The “deflection of span in inches divided by 360” is another engineering standard, expressed by the equation: deflection = 1/360, | being
the length in inches of the span. The 360 figure is obviously not an arbitrary one. It is the figure that, when it divides the span length in
inches, happens to result in the decimal equivalent of the required or desired deflection. If you use 180 or 240 (old codes used these num-
bers), you get more deflection. A 15-foot span with |/180 has a 1-inch deflection; a 15-foot span with 1/240 has a Ys-inch deflection, and
a 15-foot span with 1/360 has a ¥2-inch deflection, which—it has been found empirically—is what people find comfortable.
}
———— —— Se
 No “I
BEAMS, RAFTERS & COLLAR TIES

Beams, Rafters terion better, imagine two walls a

given distance apart. If you placed
are disconcerting. By increasing
joist size you may pay a little more,
& Collar Ties a board of approved size on edge but you'll feel better walking on
between the walls and put a 50-psf solid floors.
Sizing Lumber load on it, the board could bend
You can see from the span table
7s to /2 inch under the weight. If that different lumber species have
Lumber is rated for its ability to re- you were to increase the load to, different strengths and, therefore,
sist deflection as it spans between say, 70 psf, the board rated for different allowable spans. Douglas
two bearing points, no matter where 50 psf would bend more than the fir (south) No. 2 grade 2x8s framed
you might use it. To rate a piece of allowable ”% to 2 inch, and you 24 inches on center have an allow-
lumber, building-code bodies and would have to get a bigger board able span of 10 feet 6 inches, where-
lumber-grading associations have to support the greater weight. as No. 3 grade of the same species
created span tables, which list the
Floor Joists. For floor joists, this can span only 8 feet 4 inches. The
maximum allowable span for each
rating system works well. To add knots and defects in the lesser grade
board type, broken down by spe-
a feeling of stability and solid con- weaken the wood. If you follow this
cies, grade, and size. Most span ta-
struction, however, some designers
table or one like it, you'll have little
bles assume a combined live and
oversize the floor joists to handle
deflection when you use the wood
dead load of 50 pounds per square
as much as 100 psf to give a firmer in properly designed buildings.
foot (psf). The 50 psf comprises
10-psf dead load and 40-psf live feeling. This doesn’t necessarily Rafters. Rating authorities size
load. The spans listed in span ta- mean using lumber twice as big as rafters similarly to joists, but there
bles allow a maximum deflection of that used to handle 50 psf; it can are differences. As with joists, you
7s inch (just perceivable) to 2 inch mean simply spacing joists closer measure the rafter span (the distance
(noticeable). To understand this cri- together. Spongy, bouncy floors from the ridgeboard to the outside

RAFTER SPAN RATINGS (Feet

& Inches)
ONIWS
SOISVd
2x6 2x8 2x10
Species Slope 16"0.c. 24"o.c. | 16"0.c. 24"o.c. | 16.0.C.me24 01:
Douglas Fir—Larch 3 in 12 or less 10-5 8-6 13-9 11-3 17-7 14-5
No. 2 Over 3 in 12 10-0 8-1 13-2 10-9 169 13-8
Douglas Fir—South 3 in 12 or less 10-1 8-3 13-4 10-11] 17-0 13-10
No. 2 Over 3 in 12 9-7 7-10 12-8 10-4 16-2 13-3

Hemlock/Fir 3 in 12 or less 9-3 7-7 12-3 10-10 15-8 129

No. 2 Over 3 in 12 8-10 7-3 11-9 9-6 14-11 12-2

Mountain Hemlock 3 in 12 or less 9-6 7-9 EH 10-3 16-0 13-1

No. 2 Over 3 in 12 9-1 7-5 12-0 9-9 15-3 12-6

Eastern Spruce 3 in 12 or less 8-5 6-1] 11-2 9-] 14-3 11-7

No. 2 Over 3 in 12 8-0 6-7 10-7 8-8 13-7 11-1

Spruce/Pine/Fir 3 in 12 or less 8-8 7-1 11-6 9-4 14-8 11-1]

No. 2 Over 3 in 12 8-3 6-9 10-11 8-1] 13-11 les)

Southern Pine 3 in 12 or less 10-3 8-5 13-7 11-1 17-4 14-2

No. 2 Over 3 in 12 9-10 8-0 12-11 10-7 16-6 13-6
Ponderosa Pine/ 3 in 12 or less 8-6 70 11-4 9-2 14-5 ime
Sugar Pine No. 2 Over 3 in 12 8-] 6-8 10-9 8-9 13-9 11-3
Design Criteria:
Strength—10-psf dead load plus 40-psf live load
Deflection—Limited to span in inches divided by 240 for a slope of 3 in 12 or less and 180 for a slope of more than 3 in 12.
Sources: National Lumber Grades Authority, National Lumber Manufacturers Association, Southern Pine Inspection Bureau, West Coast
Lumber Inspection Bureau, Western Wood Products Association.
28
ENGINEERING BASICS

wall plates measured horizontally), D = Depth of Joist

factor in the species and on-center
framing, and determine what size
lumber to buy by looking at a span
table. Rafters sometimes have to
sustain more loads than joists
do, however, primarily because of
wind and snow. To complicate mat- No Notches in Middle
>< Outer Third
Outer Third
ters further, the slope or pitch of the of Span Third of Span of Span
roof also factors into the allowable
span. A steeply sloped roof, which Drilling and Notching Framing Members. Notching or cutting holes in beams
invariably weakens them. Don’t cut holes within 2 in. of the edge of a joist or rafter,
sheds snow, will have a different
and limit them to no larger than one-third the depth of the joist. Limit notches to one-
load specification than a shallow or
sixth the depth of the joist and no longer than one-third of the joist’s depth.
nearly flat roof, which retains it. So
rafters have their own span tables, ing joists or attic floor joists, to Sizing Studs,
different from those for joists, which
figure all this in.
which you fasten the ends of the Beams, and Headers
rafters. Collar ties stiffen the raf-
ters and help resist wind loads. If Studs. Sizing studs is simple,
You can see from the sample raf-
your plans specify collar ties, you because you generally have only two
ter table that 2x10 No. 2 Douglas
must include them. Don’t leave choices: 2x4s or 2x6s. Increasingly,
fir (south) rafters framed 16 inches
them out, no matter how stable structures are being framed with
on center will have an allowable
the rafters seem to feel. 26 studs—for a few reasons:
span of 17 feet with a slope of 3 in
12 or less and an allowable span = 2x6s make for a sturdier building.
of 16 feet 2 inches with a slope Drilling and Notching
= A 2x6 wall allows more room for
greater than 3 in 12. Slope is ex- Framing Members insulation.
pressed as the number of inches
When you run cables, heating
the roof rises for every foot of its = 2x6 walls are easier to work with
ducts, or pipes, you often have when running cables and pipes.
run, which is the width measured
to run them through joists or
horizontally to the middle of the
rafters, because running them You can use 24s, which are about
roof. So a 3-in-12 roof rises 3 inch-
below those members would 30 percent cheaper, and havea
es for every 12 inches of run.
make them poke through the sturdy, up-to-code wall. But you
To determine the design rafter live ceiling below. There are ways have to place 2x4s on 16-inch cen-
load for your area in pounds per to cut and notch joists and raf- ters, whereas you can space 26s
square foot (psf), check with the ters safely, but you must stay 24 inches apart, so you have to use
local building department. If the within strict guidelines, using more 2x4s and may not save that
load is 40 psf or lower, you can use the board’s actual—not nomi- much money. It’s rare to use studs
most standard span charts, which nal—dimensions: that are larger than 2x6s for fram-
use 40 psf as the assumed load, ing. You would do so only to add
= Never cut a hole closer than
when sizing rafters. (When sizing to the house’s soundproofing or
2 inches to the board’s edge. insulation, and in most cases other
rafters make sure you have a rafter-
sizing chart that accounts for slope.) = Never make the hole bigger than than these the benefit wouldn’t be
If the load is greater than 40 psf (in one-third the depth of the joist. worth the added cost.
regions of high snow, high wind, or
= Never cut holes or notch the rafter Beams. Also called girders, beams
active hurricanes), you may have
or joist in the middle one-third of may be made from large dimen-
to increase the size of your rafters,
the board’s length. That’s where the sional wood, engineered lumber
reduce the spans, frame the rafters
wood is under the most stress from (LVLs or glue-laminated beams),
closer together, or support the raf-
the load it bears. or structural steel. Beams run hori-
ters mid-span with struts.
zontally—down the center of a base-
= Never cut a notch deeper than
Collar Ties. Roofs have other com- ment, for example, to carry the floor
one-sixth the depth of the board,
ponents called collar ties that add joists above—to support the weight
except at the ends, where the notch
to the stability of rafters. Collar ties of some part of your structure. Most
can be one-fourth the depth.
installed in the upper two-thirds beams are built-up: made using
of rafters don’t keep rafters from = Never make your notches long- three 2«10s or 2x12s nailed with
spreading under roof loads; that’s er than one-third the depth of 16d nails, 32 inches on center. Along
the job of rafter ties, usually ceil- the board. its span, a beam may be supported
 BEAMS, RAFTERS & COLLAR TIES

: MAXIMUM SPANS
FOR BEAMS (Feet & Inches)
oundation Pocket

Width of | Beam Size Bearing ————

Structure (Solid or 1% or Two
(Feet) Built-Up) | One Story* Stories | Nonbearing
| Ax6 = = 5.6
| Ax8 — — 7-6
Up to 26 6x8 7-0 6-0 9-0
6x10 9-0 7-6 11-6
6x12 10-6 9-0 12-0

Ax6 — — —
| Ax8 = - 70
| Werte 6x8 6-6 5-6 8-6
6x10 8-0 E® 10-6
Ox? 10-0 8-0 11-6 v4
*A dash means the beam would not be strong enough for this purpose.

There are two kinds of beams: non- beam made of three 2x12s (a 6x12)
bearing and bearing. Nonbearing can span only 12 feet as a nonbear-
beams support the live and dead ing beam in a 26-foot-wide build-
loads of the floor above it. Bearing ing. If your basement will be 24 feet
beams support the live and dead long and you want to run the beam
loads of the floor above it and a wall the entire way, you will need a col-
ONIGS
SOISVE
©
framed directly above. A common umn at the halfway point to support
application of a beam or girder (non- it. Because columns are relatively in-
bearing or bearing) would be in a expensive, compared with the possi-
large basement. If your basement is ble damage beam deflection can
24 feet wide, there is no way you cause, it’s best to over-support the
will span that entire distance with beam with an extra column or two.

J oints=Staggered
: z lumber. (A joist rated for a 24-feet
span would be massive, weighty,
If you're building a basement that
needs large open spaces without
and expensive. You'd have to go to columns or one with only one col-
steel.) But a wood joist can easily umn in the middle of the room,
span a 12-foot distance. So, a com- you may have to increase the size
monly used design solution is to of the beam substantially or use an
run a beam down the center of the engineered lumber product or steel
basement, supported by columns I-beam.
Beams. Beams are often used to support or posts along its length. The ends
Headers. Headers are structur-
long joist spans. Beams in basement appli- of the beam would rest in pockets
al members made from two-by
cations are set in a pocket in the founda- in the foundation wall. The floor
lumber that bridge an opening.
tion wall and supported by columns. When joists (running perpendicularly)
Headers sit at right angles to joists,
making “builtup” beams, be sure to stag- would run from the wall plates to
ger the joints of each component board. rafters, or studs, and support the
the middle of the basement. There
weight from above the opening. In
they would rest on the beam or sit
by 4x4 wood posts or concrete-and- walls, headers assume the load
in special joist hangers mounted
steel lally columns. The ends of that would otherwise fall on a door,
on the sides of the beam.
beams typically sit in a pocket made window, or other wall opening. In
in the foundation. (If you create a It’s easy to accidentally under- floors and roofs, headers define
pocket for a beam, be sure to leave size or improperly support a beam. the perimeters of rough openings
a /-inch air space around the sides A typical built-up beam made of like stairways or skylights, stiffen
and beam ends for air flow.) These three 2x12s nailed together feels so the joists or rafters, and assume
pockets are designed so that the top beefy you'd think it could support the load of the missing joists or raf-
of the beam comes flush with the any residential load. But you can ters that you cut out of the way or
top of the wall’s mudsill. see from the beam span table that a left out to create the opening.
30
ENGINEERING BASICS

You create the headers used in cause the header will be the same not only makes good structural
roofs and floors by simply doubling thickness as a 2x4 wall, and sheet sense but presents a good nailing
the lumber around the rough open- goods like drywall (inside) or ply- surface for wall-finishing materials
ing. If you’re using 2x10 rafters or wood (outside sheathing) will come like drywall.
joists, for example, the headers will flush against the header on both For nonload-bearing walls, the head-
be double 2x10s properly nailed in sides of the wall. The ability of a er does not carry loads from above.
place or in hangers at both ends of single 2x8 to carry the load over a The header serves only two simple
the opening, perpendicular to the 48-inch opening does not argue for purposes: it acts as a spacer to de-
rafters or joists and to the 210s that using a single 2x8 in that location. termine the rough opening for the
define the sides of the rough open- Always use doubled 2-by stock and window or door, and it provides
ing. Headers for doors and windows try to make headers in walls ex- a nailing surface for the top of the
are different. If you’re framing with actly as thick as the wall in which door or window jamb. A double
2x4s, you can’t always use two 2x4s you'll install them. If the wall is 2x4 is adequate in nonload-bearing
for a header if the walls will support framed with 2x6s, for example, then wall situations for door and win-
heavy loads from above. use blocking other than plywood to dow openings of up to 72 inches.
By checking the header table, you'll make the header 5% inches thick. For larger openings in nonload-
see that for load-bearing walls with Making the faces of the header flush bearing walls, you'll want to in-
an opening of 48 inches or less, a with the outside edges of the studs crease the size of the header to a
doubled 2x4 (or 4x4) is adequate
if the wood species is Douglas fir SPAN TABLE FOR HEADERS
(or stronger). Openings between
48 and 72 inches require a doubled | Lumber Size Species Minimum Grade Maximum Span
2x6 (or 4x6), and those between Douglas fir No. 2 A8 in
| Ax4
72 and 96 inches call for a doubled
2x8 (or 4x8). When you make a | 4x6 Douglas fir No. 2 72 in.
header for a wall, you'll usually use | Ax8 Douglas fir No. 2 96 in.
blocking like /2-inch plywood be-
tween the two pieces of lumber. | 4x10 Douglas fir No. 2 10 ft.
Besides the ability to carry a certain | 4x12 Douglas fir No. 2 12 ft.
load over an opening, a doubled
Ax14 Douglas fir No. 1 16 ft.
header (sandwiching /2-inch ply-
wood) makes the most sense be-

Cripple Studs

Headers. Headers are designed to assume the load that would have been supported by the framing members that were removed to cre-
ate the open space. The distance between a header and the top plate may be taken up by cripple, or partial, studs (left). Headers aren't
iust used to carry vertical loads in walls, they are essential for stabilizing joists or rafters in rough openings in floors and roofs (right).
 31
BUILDING PLANS

2x6, simply because 24s tend to to watch sunsets or to barbecue, into the structure, nailed off as part
sag or bow over longer distances. however, you'll have to increase of the flooring system.
As with load-bearing walls, you the size of the joists or decrease the
= Always nail a board across the
should make headers in nonload- spacing between them to 12 inches
joist ends to act as a header board,
bearing walls to the thickness of the on center, because you'll be increas-
tying the joists together and adding
wall in which you'll install them. ing the maximum design load be-
stability to the deck.
yond 50 psf. Have an engineer look
Cantilevers. Because a piece of
lumber has a maximum allowable
at your design if you plan on large
span when it bridges two points
loads for a cantilevered deck.
Building Plans
of contact, you can imagine that The shear point is the top edge
it also has a maximum span—in- When framing buildings of nearly
of the joists where they meet the
variably less—when it has only any size, you need a set of plans,
house. If joists are undersized, they
one point of contact, as when it is or blueprints, from which to work.
could easily fail if you loaded the
cantilevered, or hanging out into If you walked onto any construc-
deck beyond the limit for which you

A
space like a joist in an unsup- tion site, you'd likely see blue-
sized them. Joists can fail in a num-
ported porch. Diving boards are prints rolled up near the general
ber of ways, including breaking off
cantilevered, and though they’re contractor’s workstation or spread
at the shear point, though they are
specifically engineered to provide out on a drafting table. Blueprints
most likely to split. That’s why you
bounce, you'd be surprised how represent the guide for building the
must size joists for the maximum
much bounce you can get out of structure. The blueprints must
design load, the maximum weight
standard dimension lumber. be readily available because car-
that you, snow, or wind will ever
That’s why cantilevering is sub- penters and subcontractors regu-
put on the cantilevered deck over
ject to strict design rules. larly refer to plans to direct them
its entire lifetime.
through their tasks.
Cantilevered beams are subject to Here are some design rules for can-
shear and deflection, and you must Blueprints obviously can’t be
tilevers:
account for both of these loads in drawn full-size, so they’re drawn ONIYS
SOISVd
your sizing. Take a deck, for exam- = Check span tables for allowable to scale. Typically, a /-inch space
ple, framed with 28s 16 inches on cantilever joist spans. or line on a blueprint represents a
center that cantilevers 8 feet. A 1-foot space or length in the struc-
= Make sure you extend the deck
50-psf load will deflect the outer ture. Though the /-inch scale is
joists back into the structure as part popular, there are other scales in
edge of this deck—the farthest
of the floor system.
point from the house—1 inch. A common use. You may find blue-
1-inch deflection is quite notice- = Be sure that the section of the prints that use a %2-inch or /2-inch
able. Increase the size of the joists unsupported joist is no more than scale, meaning that /2- or 72-inch
to 2x12s, and the deflection goes one-quarter the joist’s entire length. lines on the blueprints represent
down to /4 inch—an acceptable If you have a 4-foot cantilever, for 1 foot of actual dimension.
amount. If you’re going to pack example, you must have a 16-foot If designers and architects were to
the deck with friends and family joist with 12 feet extending back put all the features of a building on
one sheet of the blueprint, it would
Outside be difficult to read and too com-
plicated to follow. So at the design
One-Quarter Length
stage, the engineer or architect
of Joist
breaks the building down into dif-
ferent plans. Each plan shows how
to build different features of the
house. Depending on how compli-
cated a building is, you sometimes
get as many as ten plans, covering
areas of detail such as specifica-
tions, plot plans, foundation plans,
J |Joists as exterior elevations, section views,
| hei | | Part
ofFloor framing plans, window and door
System
details, finish schedule, and the like.
Saute If you were building an architect-
Cantilevers. Always “header-o ff’ the ends of joists in cantilevers. A header ties the
joists together and adds stability to the structure. designed three-story house from
32
ENGINEERING BASICS

both edges of a concrete wall where

scratch, for example, the architect Reading Blueprints
would present you with a set of it meets the floor, for instance, be-
Blueprints look confusing at first cause those edges would be visible
plans that contains a page (or pages)
glance, but if you know the basics when the wall sits in place. A bro-
for each of these different features
of how to read them, they become ken line indicates an object that’s
of the building. If you were sim-
clear. First learn how to read the hidden from view.
ply adding an addition or building
“lines,” because it is with various
a garage, however, you'd likely Aspects of a building, such as a
types of lines that a blueprint rep-
work from foundation and framing window, door, or concrete footing,
resents a structure’s component
plans that include your window often have to be located precisely
parts. Then turn your attention
and door placements. Exterior ele- along a wall or ina floor. This posi-
to the symbols and abbreviations
vations would reveal the way the tioning is done witha centerline,
commonly used so you can have
building looks from the outside, which establishes the center point
a complete understanding of what
and perhaps you would have an- of an area or rough opening.
is being represented. (See Lines
other page that shows where to
Used for Drawings, below.) A section line indicates where an
put the wires and the plumbing.
All of this information would be Lines. A solid line on a blueprint aspect of the building needs to be
combined onto two or three pages indicates an object’s visible outline. “cut,” or shown in cross section,
of a blueprint. You would see a solid line along so that something inside the build-

—_—
=
Lines Used for Drawings
Object Outline Indicates the outline of
a )}———_—_ an object

Indicates hidden surfaces

Indicates center points of

areas and objects

ae Section Line Indicates where an object

is sectioned so that interi-
or features may be seen
y Y

ol
Break Line Indicates shortened view
of an object

Leader Line
6)
Points from a note or
measurement to a part
se

=
of the structure
=
Lines Used for Dimensioning
Dimension Lines
an ted
Indicates the distance
between two points; the
ends of dimension lines
may have a dot or a
slash mark instead of
(i ieee an arrowhead

Extension Line Extends from points on the

@)+ drawing and is touched
by the dimension lines
L
Lines. In a blueprint various lines may indicate any number of things, including the outline, the center, or the dimension of an object.
 33
BUILDING PLANS

ing can be seen. A break line indi- rows at its ends. An extension line Wall Symbols. B! ueprints also
cates a shortened view of an aspect establishes a reference from which use symbols to indicate wall types.
of the building that has a uniform dimension lines are drawn. When a structure is drawn ona
predictable shape. blueprint, the walls are represented
Utility Symbols. To maintain
as a line. But that line can be a brick
Blueprints also give dimensions, consistency in the construction in-
wall, a wood wall, or even stucco
or distances between various points dustry and to avoid confusion,
over a wood frame, so a set of sym-
of a building, and lines play a role blueprint floor plans use standard
here, too. If the distance between symbols to show the positions of
walls is 10 feet, the dimension 10' 0" various aspects of a building. Frame
interrupts a solid line with arrows Symbols represent heating and
pointing outward on both ends. plumbing components, as well as
Sometimes a dimension line has electrical devices like outlets, switch- Frame
dots or slanted lines instead of ar- es, and power panels.

C
Steel Stud
Order Plans to Build Your Own Home VO
To view a variety of house designs and to order blueprints to build the Wood Stud

houses, turn to page 216. ] I N (

Concrete

TUNE
ot. Cm) im © oe 7
-
Pith
Y
=
» are
Pte
reer,
rei
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P|
mie A Pe Ss a ree ene cee =

Hose Bibb Water Thermostat Radiator Convector ONIYS

SOISVE
Heater ee aoe Brick

a tC ieeees

[ ne fe. 2S kee Firebrick

Duct Air Supply Air Return Built-in Refrigerator Range Top
Oven

Kitchen Sink Double

—JI-MAS
Bathtub Shower Lavatory Water
Concrete Block
eeihe KC
s

LA ie eh V_ ies | faire ala

Laundry Sink Stall Closet

Cavity Wall
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Siingle-Fole
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CMM
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Switch Switch Switch Shes ee es
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eatherproo ISangei S pecial-| Splplit , | Brick Veneer—Concrete Block
Outlet Outlet Outlet Purpose Wired Fixture Outlet
Outlet

On
Recessed Outlet Flood
ee |p
Heat Bell Push
7 @
Switch-Controlled
Brick Veneer—Frame
DD LLL GES 20
GASES EY ID DET TIA
Lamp Lamp Button Light

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©
Smoke Detector
ONS seme!
Fluorescent Light

Utility Symbols. Blueprints use symbols to represent nonstructural components in a Wall Symbols. Symbols in floor plans
building. A few common symbols are shown here. represent various kinds of wall constructions.
34
ENGINEERING BASICS

treated wood is called for; anytime relation to one another. A floor

bols appears on blueprints to indi-
cate what kind of wall to build. you see GL, glass is called for. plan is initially confusing to look
at, but once you master the many
Abbreviations. Because the space lines, abbreviations, and symbols
allotted on blueprints is small, archi- Floor Plans and Elevations
it contains, it’s really quite easy
tects use abbreviations to identify
A floor plan is an overview of the to read. An elevation is a two-
various aspects of the building, such
floor, or story, of a building, in- dimensional view of the side of a
as a soffit, dormer, or door. The ab-
cluding all the dimensions, from building. Every building has at
breviations are standardized.
directly overhead. With a floor least four elevations, one each for
Anytime you see PT ona blueprint,
for example, it means that pressure- plan, you can see all the rooms in north, south, east, and west.

COMMON BLUEPRINT ABBREVIATIONS

Aluminum ALUM Floor FL Retaining Wall RW

Anchor bolt AB Footing FIG Ridge RDG
Bathroom BATH Foundation FDN Riser R
Bathtub BT Furnace FURN Roof RF
Basement BSMT Gauge GA Roofing RFG
Beam BM Girder GDR Room RM
Bedroom BR Glass GL Rough Opening RO
Block BLK Grade GR Screen SC
Brick BRK Ground GRND Sewer SEW
Board BD Gypsum Board GYP BD Shake SHK
Building BLDG Hardboard HBD Sheathing SHTH
Building Line BL Hardwood HWD Shingle SHGL
Cabinet CAB Heat H Shower SH
Casement CSMT Hose Bibb HB Siding SDG
Cedar CDR Insulation INSUL Sill Si
Ceiling CLG Interior INT Sink SK
Center CTR Jamb JMB Skylight SKL
Center Line Cl Joist JS1 Sliding Door SL DR
Chimney CHIM Kitchen KIT Soil Pipe SP
Closet CLOS Laundry LAU Solar Panel SLR PAN
Column GOL Lavatory LAV Soffit SOF
Concrete CONC Light LT South S
Cornice GOR Linen Closet LC Stack Vent SV
Detail DET Living Room LR Stairs Sb
Diameter DIAM Louver LV Stairway STWY
Dining Room DR Medicine Cabinet MC Steel StL
Dishwasher DW Metal MET Top Hinged TH
Door DR North N Tread TR
Dormer DRM On Center OC Utility Room UR
Double Hung DH Opening OPNG Ventilation VENT
Douglas Fir DF Overhang OH Vent Stack VS
Downspout DS Panel PNL Vinyl Tile V TILE
Drain DR Partition PTN Water W
Drywall DW Plate PL Waterproof WP
East E Plywood PLYWOOD Water Closet WC
Electric ELEG Porch P West W
Elevation EL Pressure Treated PT or P/T Wide Flange WF
Exterior EXT Rafter RFTR White Pine WP
Finish FIN Redwood RWD Window WDW
Fireplace FPL Refrigerator REF Wood WD
Fixture FIX Reinforced REIN Yellow Pine
 ET NO! Li 2
~ = -7)- nS LINE OF EXISTING SLOPED CEILING
TO REMAIN.
2. wo) 2-1/2" SELECT RED OAK
FLOORING, SAXDED, STAINKD NUD 2
COATS OP WATER BASED SATIX
a a URETEANE
NEM 4" WIDE MARELE THRESHOLD,
WHITR. PRICH INCLUDED
CERAMIC TILE ALLOWN:
REYERENCK SPECIPICATIONS.
SHOWER ¥LOOR AND WALLS TO SE
CERAMIC TILE. COLOR TO BE
SELECTED BY OKNER,
« REMOVE EXISTING WINDOK AND WIDEN
EXISTING OPENING TO ACCOMMODATE
NEW 24-6" DOOR. SEE DOOR
Alone SCHEDULE POR DOOR INFORMATION.
EXISTING STEEL LINTEL TO REXAIX.
Tews thio NEW PARTICLE BOARD SHELF, WOOD
ar
Pore Mite oT alee CLOSET POLE WITK METAL BRACKET
Bo teks SUPPORTS .
Lier Onaiioy REMOVE EXISTING WINDOW AND
D Rep, INFILL WITH 2 X 4 STUDS AND 1/2"
GXP, BD. EACH SIDE. PROVIDE 1* x
4" SHELY INSERTS, 2 BACH.
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W/2- #4 ConTINUCUS
1 4 ARAVEL BED
is typical of what you'd see in blueprints.
Other typical drawings include framing
plans (top left) and sections (bottom).
ENGINEERING BASICS

Window and window and door frames. Once you _ sition of such building compo-
Door Sections have the rough opening framed in nents as the casing, the head jamb,
for the window or door, you'll start __the side jambs, and trim. They also
Most blueprints show window and _ to assemble the jambs, using these show how wall finishes like siding
door sections. The sections are de- window and door sections as your or drywall butt against the window
tailed drawings of how to assemble —_guides. The sections show the po- or door.

i ° °
Typical Interior Door Dose
Door
Plan 1 Double Header
Section 2 Head Casing
View
3S Head Jamb
4 Head Stop

5 Interior Door

6 Side Casing
7 Side Stop

8 Base Molding

9 Shoe Molding

10. Trimmer Stud

11. King Stud

12 Side Jamb
13 Drywall

Window

Side-Jamb | iss |?
Detail 2 Outside Side
Casing

3 Glass
4 Upper Sash

5 Head Jamb

6 Double Header

7 ‘Parting Strip

8 King Stud
9 = Trimmer Stud

10 Side Jamb
| 11. Lower Sash
Window Side-Jamb Detail 12 Rough Sill
TON eZ allie Annee Atel, 13 Apron

Stool

Blind Stop

99 sarc ype es Window Elevation

Waa. nT 2) | Sill)
a Window Sill Detail Section View Window Plan Section View

Window and Door Sections. This collection of door and window sections shows jamb details, as well as plan and elevation views.
 DS TEESE I BSE EY IIE TEP EOE RELIES = RSET

Framing
Tools

M ost construction work re-

quires the use of accurate
laying out, marking, and cutting
tools. Framing is no exception to
that rule, whether you are build-
ing an entire house, a small out-
building, or adding an addition
to your home. When a /“-inch
error can lead to unsatisfactory
results, it’s a good idea to invest
in quality tools that, used prop-
erly, will help provide accurate results. The past 15 years
have seen an explosion of tools for builders, from laser-
guided power miter boxes to computer-driven drills and
high-tech moisture meters. Sure, some of them can make
your job easier and more enjoyable, but they are expen-
sive. However, there is a core group of standard—and in-
expensive—hand and power tools that allows you to do
a good job of framing if you practice diligence and pay
attention to safety.
38
FRAMING TOOLS

buy has marks designating 16- and

Measuring Measuring Tape. The most
handy tool you'll use is a measur- 24-inch on-center framing. These
Tools ing tape. A locking 25-foot tape is markings come in handy when
you're laying out walls.
well suited for framing. Heavy-
Framing houses takes precise
cutting of lumber, with tolerances duty 25-footers have /-inch-wide When you're using a measuring
of at most “% inch. Before you can blades that stay rigid up to about tape, don’t rewind it too fast and let
even cut boards, however, you've 7 feet—handy when measuring the end clip slam into the housing
got to have the right tools to mea- something overhead or out of because this can loosen the clip’s riv-
sure and mark them. reach. Be sure that the tape you ets and make the tape less accurate.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

Common sense should tell you exceeds 85 decibels (dB) for an Institute for Occupational Safety
not to do construction work with- 8-hour workday. When you con- and Health/Mine Safety and Health
out first having some basic safe- sider that a circular saw emits Administration (NIOSH/MSHA) has
ty equipment, such as eye and 110 dB, however, even shorter approved it for your specific opera-
ear protection. exposure times can contribute to tion. When you can taste or smell
hearing impairment. Both insert the contaminate or when the mask
Wear goggles or safety glasses and muff-type protectors are avail- starts to interfere with normal breath-
that have aerated side guards able; whichever you choose, be ing, it’s time for a replacement.
whenever you work with power sure it has a noise reduction
tools. Make sure your eye protec- Work gloves are also advisable
rating (NRR) of a least 20 aB. to avoid injury to the hands, at
tion conforms to American Nation-
al Standards Institute (ANSI) Z87.1 Your construction work will create least when you're moving wood
an enormous amount of sawdust. or doing other jobs that don’t re-
or Canadian Standards Associa-
tion (CSA) requirements. Products If you're sensitive to dust, it’s a quire great tactile sense. Getting
good idea to wear a dust mask. splinters is not a good way to start
that do will be marked with a a workday. Similarly, heavy-duty
stamp. Considering the cost of a Two kinds of respiratory protec-
tion are available: disposable work boots will protect your feet.
visit to the emergency room, it Steel toes will prevent injuries to
doesn’t hurt to buy an extra pair dust masks and corriacenyee
respirators. A dust mask will allow your toes from dropped boards
for the times when a neighbor vol- or tools, and flexible steel soles
ey to avoid inhaling dust and
unteers to lend a hand or when ine particles. Respirators have a will protect your feet from a punc-
you misplace the first pair. replaceable filter. Both are avail- ture by a rogue nail. Lastly, wear
The U.S. Occupational Safety able for protection against non- a hard hat, especially when you're
and Health Administration (OSHA) toxic and toxic dusts and mists. working in the basement or work
recommends that hearing protec- Whichever you buy, look for a has started on the second floor and
tion be worn when the noise level stamp indicating that the National others may be working above you.

Safety Glasses

Foam Ear Plugs

==

-
weer

Work
Gloves Muff-Type Ear
Protectors
 39
LEVELS

Always ease the tape into the hous- and—sometimes—self-retracting walls for plumb. You can always
ing: stop it with your finger near features. Less-expensive steel and place your 4-footer on a long 2x4 to
the end, and lightly push it in the fabric tapes have /-inch blades extend it, but make sure the 24 is
last inch. and manual rewind. arrow-straight.

Wood Rule. Some carpenters pre- One way to test your level is to set
fer a folding wood rule, which is a it on top of a surface that reads per-
stack of ruler sections, each hinged Levels fectly level. Now flip the level over.
on one end. You extend the folding Spirit Level. Because framing The bubble should still be in the
wood rule by unfolding each sec- often has to be level (perfectly hori- center. If it has moved, your level
tion. The best kind of folding wood zontal) and plumb (perfectly verti- is off.
rule has a thin metal ruler embed- cal), you'll need a spirit level to Digital Level. You can also buy
ded in the first section. This little
check your work. Bubbles in slight- an electronic level that beeps when
ruler slides out, and it is an excel-
ly bent fluid-filled vials indicate it is perfectly level or plumb. The
lent tool for obtaining exact short when your work is level or plumb. tool never goes out of whack be-
measurements. Folding wood rules
A 4-foot spirit level will do fine, cause you can reset it electronically.
are not as convenient to use for
but you may want a 6- or 8-footer Electronic levels also work as incli-
long distances as a tape measure,
for better accuracy when checking nometers to give you the angle of
but for shorter distances they can
come in handy. Some carpenters
still prefer them.

Long Tape. These steel or fabric

measuring tapes come in lengths
of 50 and 100 feet and are espe-
cially handy for measuring the
length of foundations to size up
sill plates. The best tapes are the
heavy-duty steel types used by
loggers, which have %-inch blades

ONIWVA
STOOL
©

Measuring Tools. A heavy-duty mea- Levels. Spirit levels indicate level or plumb using bubbles in a vial. You can extend
suring tape, wood rule, and long tape your level by holding it against a long, straight board. An 8- or 9-in. torpedo level is
are handy tools on most framing jobs. handy for double checking boards, floors, or pipes.
40
FRAMING TOOLS

speed square, the framing square

rafters and purlins. That feature
can be handy when you have to
Squares has figures etched into it. Often,
match roof pitches in separate, Framing has to be square, as well the figures are extensive rafter
distant locations. as level and plumb. You'll need at tables. (See “Rafter Tables on a
least two squares: a speed square Framing Square,” page 147.)
Water Level. Another handy and a framing square. Two other
tool is a water level, which is noth- Combination Square. You may
varieties of this tool also come also want to pick up a combination
ing more than water ina long clear
in handy. square, really a ruler that has a slid-
hose, with gradation marks on both
ends. Because water seeks its own Speed Square. A speed square ing bracket mounted to it at 90 de-
level, no matter what the distance or is a heavy-duty aluminum square grees. The bracket has a second
terrain, you can use the tool for all in the form of a right triangle. A surface, which you can use to make
kinds of long-distance level checks. speed square is great for guiding 45-degree cut lines on lumber. Some
Just stretch the hose from one place your saw and marking lumber, and squares have a pointed metal scribe
to another and make sure the water it’s etched with common framing to mark work for cutting. This tool
line sits at the same gradation mark figures to use as a reference. You is handy, but the speed square will
on both ends. won't find a handier tool. serve most of your needs.

Torpedo Level. You'll never be Framing Square. A large L- Sliding T-Bevel. Lastly, you may
sorry for carrying a small “torpedo shaped square made of steel or need a sliding T-bevel, also called a
level.” This handy tool, about 8 inch- aluminum, a framing, or rafter, bevel gauge, for some complicated
es long, is great for double checking square is indispensable when framing problems. You can set a
level when you don’t want to haul cutting rafters, marking long sliding T-bevel at any angle and use
out your 4-footer. You can easily square lines, and making sure it to transfer the same angle from
keep it in your nail pouch. corners are square. Like the one place to another.

Combination
Square

Sliding 1-Bevel

Squares. A speed square is invaluable for marking 90- and 45-degree cut lines. It also works well as a saw guide for making cuts with
a circular saw. A framing square is essential for “stepping off” rafters to determine rafter length, marking 90-degree cut lines in larger lum-
ber, and checking whether corners are square. A combination square is good for marking 90- and 45-degree angles and for drawing
consistently spaced lines from the board edge. A sliding T-bevel can be set to any angle and is ideal for transferring odd angles.
 41
HAND TOOLS

Marking Tools way include a few thick, flat car-

penter’s pencils (sometimes avail-
than fiberglass handles, so some
people think wooden handles lessen
Once you’ve measured your able free at lumberyard checkout your chances of developing repeti-
boards, you'll want to mark them. counters), carpenter’s crayons, and tive motion ailments like carpal tun-
You'll surely need a chalk line. This an indelible marker. nel syndrome. If you get a heavy
is nothing more than a long piece (24-ounce) hammer and your shoul-
of twine covered in chalk that you der aches even after taking aspirin
reel in and out of a chalk box. The Hand Tools the first day you use it, go down in
twine has a hook or clip at one end, weight to the 20-ounce size.
so it can be hooked over the ends or Framing Hammer. At the top of
edges of boards or plywood. When anyone’s list of framing hand tools Other Tools. You should always
you pull the line taut and snap it, should be the framing hammer. Use carry a utility knife and extra blades.
the chalk leaves a mark. It’s an in- a 20- to 24-ounce waffle-headed, or Replace the blades as soon as they
dispensable tool, and can be loaded serrated, straight-claw hammer. As are dull, because working with dull
with either blue or red chalk. Other for a handle, wooden (hickory) han- blades—or any dull tools—is dan-
marking tools you'll need along the dles tend to absorb vibration better gerous. With a dull tool you have to

Tool Pouches

Marking Tools. A chalk line is invalu-

able for “snapping” cut lines on long
pieces of lumber and panel material. Si aaa

Utility Knife

Bae
|ONIWVa
SIOOL

. Using a Cat’s Paw

Smooth Head Handsaw

Chisel

Serrated Head Aviation Snips Cat’s Faw

Framing Hammer. A hickory-handled Other Tools. A multi-pouch tool belt is as essential as a hammer when framing any
hammer is an essential framing tool. You can _ structure. Get one that will carry your nails, tools, and measuring tape. Some framers
buy one with a smooth or a serrated head. carry an assortment of tools. You'll find that some may be more important than others.
FRAMING TOOLS

exert more force, which can lead to cut to finish off. A 15-inch saw with Power Tools
uncontrolled slippage. 10 to 12 teeth per inch (tpi) will cut
well and still fit into your toolbox,
You'll also need a tool belt, or
even if it’s small.
Saws
nail pouch, for carrying your tools.
Other tools? It never hurts to carry
Though framing doesn’t demand
You'll find that a good-quality
the precise cuts that finish carpen-
multipouch leather or nylon belt along screwdrivers (flat-bladed and
try does, you still need a variety of
with an extra holster for your mea- Phillips) for adjusting and fixing
high-quality saws with sharp blades.
suring tape is handy. Tool belts tools. Some framers won't get out
usually come with optional sus- As with all power tools, make sure
of their trucks without a tool belt
penders. Get them, because they the saws are double insulated or
containing a cat’s paw for remov-
take some of the weight off your properly grounded.
ing nails, a small flat bar for mus-
hips. And get a padded belt if you cling wood into position, a sharp Circular Saw. The tool you'll use
can afford it. You won't be sorry. chisel, pliers, aviation snips for most is a circular saw, which is ca-
Although you'll do most of your cut- cutting banded material, and an pable of crosscutting, ripping, and
ting with power saws, nothing will adjustable wrench. This stuff is beveling boards or sheets of ply-
completely replace a good handsaw weighty, however, and you may wood quickly. The most popular
for certain types of cuts. A handsaw not need it all every day. You'll saws are those that take a 7/-inch
is just the thing whenever you have soon sort out what tools you should blade. This blade size will enable
just a few cuts to do, spots a circular carry, and you'll leave the other you to cut to a maximum depth of
saw can’t reach, or a circular saw tools within reach. about 2 inches at 90 degrees.
——— |
Power Miter Saw

Circular Saw

Base or
Sole Flate

Guard

Using a
Reciprocating Saw

Reciprocating Saw

Saws. Every framer needs a circular saw. A power miter box, or chop saw, is handy for making square or angle cuts in framing
lumber. A reciprocating saw is an ideal tool for cutting in those hard-to-getat places, for cutting sheathing, and—when fitted with
a metal blade—for cutting misplaced bolts or nails.
 43
POWER TOOLS

There are many options that distin- your circular saw can’t get to, for ing the risk of kickback, one of the
guish one saw from another, the cutting rough openings in sheath- biggest risks when cutting. Kick-
most important of which is a saw’s ing, or for cutting misplaced anchor back happens when a blade binds
power. Don’t judge a saw’s perfor- bolts out of the way. Get plenty in the cut or the teeth try to take too
mance by its horsepower rating of wood- and metal-cutting blades, much of a bite, and the saw kicks
but by the amount of amperage but don’t confuse the two. Wood back at you. It happens dramati-
that the motor draws. Low-cost blades are more serrated than the cally and instantaneously, and it is
saws may have only 9- or 10-amp smoother, small-toothed metal- quite dangerous. You can buy anti-
motors with drive shafts and ar- cutting blades. kickback blades, which have modi-
bors running on rollers or sleeve fied tooth designs, but you can best
bearings. A contractor-grade saw is Using Saws Safely reduce kickback by not rushing a
rated at 12 or 13 amps and is made cut and by stabilizing your work.
with ball bearings. Set up a safe sawing station by
cutting an 8-foot sheet of 74-inch When you're cutting wood where
A plastic housing is no longer the plywood in half lengthwise and you'll install it—on a second-floor
mark of an inferior tool; however, a screwing it to sturdy sawhorses deck or on a roof, for example—
flimsy base plate made of stamped on level ground. Power should be support the wood, preferably on
metal is. A thin stamped-steel base easy to get to so cords can swing sawhorses, and concentrate on each
won't stay as flat as a thicker ex- freely around the work. When you cut. Don’t do anything daring or
truded or cast base. cut off a short piece of wood, it off balance. You want to go home
should drop freely off the end of each day with a full finger and limb
For safety’s sake, to minimize any
your cutting table. When you cut count. Always keep your hands as
chance of electric shock, be sure
large pieces, you must have some- far as possible from the cut, and
that your saw is double insulated.
one support the wood that’s hang- clearly sight your cut line to make
Some saws have an additional safe-
ing in midair; otherwise it will sure it’s free of obstructions such as
ty switch that you must press be-
droop and bind your cut, increas- nails, extension cords, and the like.
fore the trigger will work. Another
safety feature to look for on a saw
Anti-Kickback Blade
is an arbor lock. The lock secures
Large slots reduce
the arbor nut and prevents the heat buildup. =
blade from turning while you're >
changing blades. Small slots =
reduce expansion. Ts
There are a number of blades avail- @)
4

able, designed for cutting every- O

thing from plywood and paneling O
to rough lumber. For framing, use n
a 24-tooth carbide-tipped combina-
tion blade designed for general-
purpose cutting.

Power Miter Saw. For angle cuts,

you'll want to use a power miter
saw, or chop saw. These tools are
simply circular saws mounted ona Special teeth
reduce overfeeding.
pivot assembly, which enables you
to make precise straight and angled
crosscuts in boards. You can get
chop saws that handle either 10- or
12-inch blades. Get the 12-inch saw, Stable
if you can afford it. These saws are Worktable
expensive but well worth the cost.
Use a 60-tooth combination-cut
carbide blade.
Reciprocating Saw. Another Using Saws Safely. A good saw station has a stable base, a wide, clean working
handy tool to have is a reciprocat- area, and a ready, convenient source of power. Anti-kickback blades, for use with
ing saw. It comes in handy for cut- hand-held circular saws, have specially designed teeth to reduce overfeeding. By pa-
ting the last “ inch of a board that tiently letting the blade do the work when sawing, you'll reduce the risk of kickback.
44
FRAMING TOOLS

Firmly place any wood you cut on expensive, they can also be danger- Drills
a cutting surface, whether it’s your ous, especially when accidentally
You'll surely need a drill for fram-
sawing station table or a piece of the run at air pressures above or below
ing. For starters, the tool is essen-
structure that’s already firmly as- that recommended for the tool (75 to
tial for drilling out holes in the sill
sembled (like a floor or wall open- 100 psi). A few years ago a building
plates so that they slip over the bolts
ing). Never cut hand-held wood. magazine ran a picture of an X-ray
of a nail that was shot into a work- in the top of the foundation wall or
When possible, use a square to er’s skull by a pneumatic nailer. (The slab. You'll also need a drill to bore
guide your cuts. A speed square is injured man survived.) Here’s how pass-throughs for utilities like water
an excellent guide because it gives it happened: a worker was climbing pipes and electrical wiring. If cost is
you a hands-free square line against a ladder and bumped into the busi- an issue, buy a plug-in heavy-duty
which to run your saw’s sole plate. ness end of a pneumatic nailer held %-inch drill with variable speeds. If
You can also easily make cutting by a worker who was descending you can afford the extra cost, you'll
guides for panel material from a the ladder. A simple mistake can find a cordless drill even handier.
true piece of pine, some hardboard, have deadly consequences. Cordless drills come in an array of
and a couple of clamps. (See “Ply- voltage ratings; the higher the volt-
wood-Cutting Guide,” page 66.) If you use pneumatics, you'll have age, the more powerful the drill. A
a wide range of gun types from 12-volt drill is powerful and will fill
which to choose. Most framing all your needs, but you can step up
Pneumatic Nailers guns handle 6d through 16d nails. to more-powerful 14.4- or 18-volt
Pneumatic, or air-driven, nail guns, You'll also find power staplers, drills if needed.
which use magazines that can hold which shoot heavy-duty staples for
up to 100 or more nails, can take securing sheathing, shingles, and Cordless drills run on rechargeable
much of the tedium out of repetitive building paper, and finish nailers, batteries. Many products now have
nailing. But you pay a price: nail which shoot finishing nails for fas- a quick-charge feature that charges
guns are expensive, not only to buy tening trim. You'll need a compres- batteries in less than 30 minutes. No
but also to run. They are heavy, and sor, either gas-driven or electric, matter how long it takes to charge
you need compressors and hoses and 100 feet of air hose. If you have the batteries, however, you'll want
to operate them. Nail guns really a choice, go with the quieter electric two of them: one to use and one to
don’t pay for themselves—pur- compressor. No matter what kind charge. So bite the bullet and buy
chased or rented—unless you have you use, though, be sure the proper that extra battery when you buy
a great amount of nailing to do all guards protect the belt that drives your drill.
at one time. Stick with your ham- the compressor. Also, make sure
mers if you have the slightest doubt you set the in-line regulator to the
because pneumatics are not only pressure required for your tool.

Pneumatic Nailers. A pneumatic nailer setup consists of an air compressor that drives Drills. A 12-volt cordless reversible drill
a nailer or stapler by feeding high-pressure air through the hose, filter, regulator, and in- with various speeds will come in handy
line lubricator. Pneumatic nailers are good for simple repetitive nailing, not intricate work. for drilling holes and driving screws.
Ladders, Scaffolds
EESTI LCT LS SESE ET EE TEE SI EL EET II TIE ES DIS EDAD E IED LC IT TEAL DATO

Syst ems
& Safety

M any of the accidents that

occur on a construction
site, even among professional
builders, are the result of falling. This is not because con-
struction workers are careless, it’s because so much of the
work of building and framing takes place 6, 10, 30, even
40 feet above the ground. You can confidently work safe-
ly, however, because there’s a variety of ladders, scaf-
folds, and fall-arrest devices on the market today. When
you use these systems properly, you can make great
strides toward protecting yourself and anyone else work-
ing on your project.
46
LADDERS, SCAFFOLDS & SAFETY SYSTEMS

Lacdders
A large part of the real work of
framing takes place a story or two
off the ground. You've got to get
up there—and eventually get down
again—safely using a ladder.
There are three kinds of ladders:
stepladders, fold-up (articulated)
ladders, and extension ladders. A
stepladder can be used for work
up to 15 feet above the ground, de-
pending on the size of your ladder.
Stepladders are stable only ona
level surface, however; you should
never use one on a slope. The po-
tential hazard with a stepladder is
that the higher you go, the more
unstable the ladder becomes. If
you find you're working with your
feet on or near the top three steps,
you should probably move to a
scaffold work platform or exten-
sion ladder.
Fold-up ladders are great for work-
ing mid-distances, between 4 and
12 feet off the ground. These ladders
are handy because you can config-
ure them in at least three ways: Stepladder Extension
Ladder
= Extend the ladder and lock it
straight to act as a standard, one-
section ladder.

= Lock it in an “A” position to act

as a stepladder.

= Fold it into an “M” or into an up-

side-down “U” as a miniscaffold on
which planks can be placed.

Extension ladders are used mostly

for high outdoor work. Depending
on the performance rating you use,
these ladders can be quite sturdy
and support the weight of a worker
plus material (shingles, lumber, one
end of a beam). Extension ladders
are available in a wide range of
sizes, typically from 20 to 50 feet.
You'll find each kind of ladder in
metal (usually aluminum) or fiber-
glass, and many stepladders and ex-
tension ladders are made of wood.
The type you'll choose depends on
the work you'll be doing and how
much you want to spend. Ladders. Match your ladder choice to the task at hand.
 LADDERS

Wooden Ladders. These ladders

are not only heavy, they also wear
out, crack, and splinter with use.
Wooden ladders have two advan-
tages, however: They’re relatively
inexpensive, and they’re electrical- SERIA
ly nonconducting, so they’re ideal
for working around exposed elec-
tricity. A nonconducting ladder can
literally be a life saver if it contacts
a live power line while you’re on
the ladder or if your power tool is
not properly grounded.

Aluminum Ladders. I[nexpen-

sive and lightweight (depending on
the grade), aluminum ladders are
adequate for most jobs when you
place them properly. The longer the
ladder, the easier it is to use if it’s
aluminum. Most fold-up, or articu-
lated, ladders are aluminum. Never
use an aluminum ladder in the
vicinity of wiring. ‘SYICGVI
SGIOSAV
8
ALJIVS
SW4LSAS
Fiberglass Ladders. If you're
buying for a long-term invest-
ment, get a fiberglass ladder. It
may cost more, but a top-of-the-
line fiberglass ladder is extremely
durable, strong, noncorrosive,
and nonconductive.
Homemade Ladders. Site-made ladders Safe Use. The distance between the
Homemade Ladders. You can can be safe—when built correctly. Notch ladder’s base and the structure should be
make your own ladder, but there each crosspiece into the rails, and make the one-fourth the overall distance the ladder
are strict Occupational Safety and ladder the required width for its height. spans. Try to leave 36 in. at the top.
Health Administration (OSHA)
rules for safety you should adhere their “type.” Type III ladders are ladder spans 16 feet, for example, it
to. You shouldn’t just nail 2x4 light-duty and can carry 200 pounds should be about 4 feet from the sup-
crosspieces on the outside face of per rung or step. Type II are medi- port surface. Anything steeper in-
longer 24s, for instance, and as- um-duty and can carry 225 pounds creases the risk that the ladder will
sume you have a safe ladder. If you per rung or step. Type I ladders are topple backward when someone is
make a ladder on site, the length heavy-duty industrial ladders and on it, especially near the top, and
will determine its design require- can hold 250 pounds per rung. Type anything shallower risks that the
ments. Homemade ladders up to IA ladders are extra heavy-duty ladder may kick out or slide when
12 feet long should have an inside and can hold 300 pounds per rung. someone is on it. If possible, allow
bottom width of 16 inches, 23 rails For most residential framing jobs, the top of the ladder to extend about
with no knots, and 1x3 crosspieces. a Type II ladder will serve your 36 inches past the point of contact.
Ladders between 12 and 20 feet needs just fine. (See drawing above.)
long should have an inside width
Safe Use. When you use a straight Accessories. There are a num-
of 18 inches, with 2x4 knot-free ber of ladder accessories available,
ladder, you must set it against a ver-
rails and 1x3 crosspieces. Just as some of which are essential safety
tical surface at the proper angle. As
important, be sure to notch the rails
a rule of thumb, the distance be- features on most framing jobs. You
so the crosspieces sit flush on the should use a ladder stand-off when
tween the base of the ladder and the
rail’s face. (See the drawing above.)
structure should be one-quarter the you need to work away from the
Ratings. Ladders are rated for the distance from where the ladder con- structure, to trim out the exterior of
weight they can hold. You will see a tacts the ground to where the ladder windows, for example. A stand-off
sticker on most ladders identifying rests against the structure. If your is a bracket you attach to the top of
LADDERS, SCAFFOLDS & SAFETY SYSTEMS

Accessories. A ladder stand-off offers you ample room to work around windows. Adjustable ladder levelers are helpful on hilly sites.

the ladder that acts as a spacer be- of the ladder rails at the ladder’s Platform Jacks
tween you and the wall, providing base. Ladder levelers are especially
handy for use around hilly sites and Often it’s more practical to work
accessibility to work.
on stairs. Don’t use rocks, plywood, from a platform rather than a lad-
Another handy item is a ladder or scrap lumber to prop up a lad- der when you're framing. You can
leveler, which consists of two legs der’s legs. Besides being time-con- create a sturdy work platform using
that you can set to different heights. suming, this slipshod practice of various kinds of brackets, called
Simply bolt the legs to the sides leveling is unsafe. jacks, attached to a ladder, the roof,
or vertical 4x4 posts.

Ladder Jacks. Essentially nothing

more than heavy metal brackets that
hook onto ladders, ladder jacks pro-
Outside Inside
Ladder Jack vide a stable, level place on which to
Ladder Jack
place 2x10 wood planks or an alu-
minum platform. To use the jacks,
you need two ladders, one for each
end of the plank or working sur-
face. There are two kinds of ladder
jacks: inside-bracket and outside-
bracket types.
Inside ladder jacks suspend a plank
or working platform beneath the
ladders as they rest against a struc-
ture. Outside ladder jacks support
a plank on the front face of the lad-
ders as they rest against a structure.
fi
/
|
fj Either way, the jacks hook onto the
| 1s
Ladder Jacks. Outside ladder jacks supp: ort planks spanning the outside of two lad- rungs of the ladder or at the junc-
ders (left); inside ladder jacks support a platform suspended beneath two ladders (right). tion of rungs and rails.
 PLATFORM JACKS

Nailed to Rafter Roof Jacks. Similar to ladder jacks, form made of wood or metal
roof jacks support a plank. Instead planks, pump jacks are metal L-
of hanging them from ladders, shaped brackets that travel up and
though, you nail roof jacks directly down 4x4 or metal posts. The verti-

v
into rafters, allowing them to sit on cal part of the “L” hugs an upright,
the roof’s surface. The arms of the and the horizontal part supports
roof jacks that support the plank are a plank or working surface. Other
adjustable, so you can level them brackets, which you attach to struc-
properly for roofs of various pitches. tural members like rafters or studs,
The plank provides an excellent hold the uprights to the structure.
To Remove;
Tap-Here.
working surface for applying shin- To raise the working platform, you
gles or tar paper.
Roof Jacks. Secure roof jacks with nails pump the L-shaped jacks with your
driven through the roof sheathing and into Pump Jacks. Part of a system for foot. To lower the platform, you
a roof rafter to provide a stable surface. lifting or lowering a working plat- turn a crank. The system works on

‘SYddqv
8Sd1O44
ALJIVS
SW4LSA

Railing Omitted
for Clarity

Railing Omitted
for Clarity

Pump Jacks. Pump jacks can offer a quick, efficient way to raise and lower a working platform. OSHA regulations require ap-
propriate guard rails, mid rails, toe plates, and sometimes netting.
LADDERS, SCAFFOLDS & SAFETY SYSTEMS

A safe scaffold is always level; you and bring serious harm to anyone
friction and depends on the weight
can fine-tune a scaffold horizontal- on the plank or below it.
of the platform and its cargo to hold
it in place on the uprights. As you ly by using leveling screws at the The planks on scaffolds run end
turn the crank, the bracket will scaffold’s base. Just below the lev- to end, with an overlap where
chatter as it lowers. OSHA rules re- eling screws are the scaffold’s base the plank ends meet. OSHA rules
quire that the back side of a pump- plates, which should sit on a sturdy state that this overlap be at least
jack platform (the side against footing like a 2x10 plank to keep 6 inches and that the last planks,
which a worker leans back when them from sinking into the ground. or the ones nearest the ends of the
working ona structure) have a You may also want to consider get- scaffolds, be tied off to the scaf-
42-inch-high top rail, a 21-inch mid ting a self-leveling scaffold if your fold itself.
rail, and a 4-inch toe board. The site can accommodate it. A self-lev-
Before working on a scaffold, be
planks that make up the working eling scaffold does exactly what its
name implies. The scaffold “sens- sure all open sides and ends of any
platform can span a maximum of
es” when the working platform is platform more than 10 feet above
10 feet. The uprights can extend a
not level and hydraulically adjusts the ground have rails 42 inches
maximum of 30 feet into the air. At high, with mid rails and a 4-inch
their bases they must bear on feet the legs to provide a level work
toe board, just as on pump jacks.
that keep them from sinking into surface. These systems don’t work
well if the ground beneath them If people are working below you,
the ground. If people are expected
is rough, though. They are ideal you'll need plastic netting stretched
to be working below the pump-jack
when the ground beneath them is between the railings to catch fall-
platform at any time, you must
solid and even. ing objects. Also, you must lay the
string plastic netting on the guard planks together tightly, so no ob-
rails to keep things like dropped
jects can slip between them and fall.
tools from falling. Assembling a Scaffold Lastly, plank at least three levels
To assemble scaffold sections on of your scaffold: the one you're
top of one another, you join them working on, the one above, and the
Scaffolds with couplers, which are double- one below.
Prefabricated scaffolds are alu- male-ended pins held in place by
minum- or steel-tubular-framed cotter pins. As the scaffold grows
structures that you assemble on site. in height, you should tie it off to Fall-Arrest
the building at least every 26 feet.
You can make your own wooden
scaffold, but prefabricated units are It’s safer to tie off scaffolding every
Systems
generally safer. Scaffolds provide an 15 feet, especially when it’s less A fall-protection system is any safe-
ideal working surface for such tasks than 48 inches wide. To tie a scaf- ty system that prevents workers
as installing exterior sheathing or fold off to a building, run heavy from getting hurt because of a fall.
siding and working on windows rope or heavy-duty wire through Its use is recommended where a fall
and soffits. Scaffolding is certainly a rough opening or window to of 60 inches or more is possible.
good to have on site, but it’s expen- a two-by cross brace that you've Systems include
sive to rent and prohibitive to buy. nailed in place. Twist the rope or
= Guard rails around floor openings
You may find other ways to work wire to cinch the scaffold up tight.
at heights—such as pump jacks in = Guard rails around the edges of
Once the assembled scaffold reach-
particular—more cost effective for roof decks
es the proper working height for
your project. your project, you'll want to install = Guard rails across rough openings
Steel pipe for heavy-duty scaf- a working platform, called a walk-
= Full-body harnesses attached to
folds—the kind you're most likely board, within the frame of the scaf-
specialty anchors nailed into the
to find at rental centers—is 1% inch- fold. Walkboards made specifically
framing members of a structure
es in diameter. Diagonal braces for scaffolds have aluminum stiff-
hold the end pieces of the scaffold ening rails along their lengths, and You are legally exempt from OSHA
and help stabilize the frame. Once they hook right on the scaffold’s requirements if you’re working on
you've assembled the frame, you frame. In the absence of these kinds your own house; however, that
can set work platforms on it or, of walkboards, you can use 2x10 changes when you employ some-
in some cases, climb it. The end planks. Be sure to use lumber that’s one, and you can get stiff fines
pieces of some scaffolds look like stamped “Scaffold Grade.” Other- from OSHA for noncompliance
wide ladders, and are available wise, you may overload the plank with fall-protection regulations.
in widths of 24 to 66 inches and with the combined weight of you No matter what OSHA says,
heights of the same dimensions. and your tools, causing it to break though, it’s important to protect
 FALL ARREST SYSTEMS

Coupling Leveling -4
Pin T Jack

Locking
Pin
Plywood fo
Walkboard
7
Cotter Cre
Pin 2x10
VA
“4
Mudsill

Aluminum
Walkboard

Side-Arm
Bracket

Top Rail

‘SYIGGV
SGIO4I
8
ALJSVS
SW4HISA

Mid Rail

Toe Board

rae Notched 2x Brace f eS y

Nailed to Jamb.

—-| 2x4 Brace

Rope or
Heavy Wire Planking Other than at
Top Omitted for Clarity

Assembling a Scaffold. An OSHA-approved scaffold system is equipped with a top rail, mid rail, toe board, and planks beneath
the base plates. Tie-offs are required every 26 feet, though it’s safer to install them more frequently, especially with narrow scaffolds.
52
LADDERS, SCAFFOLDS & SAFETY SYSTEMS

rope grab. The ascender is a one- wearing a personal fall-arrest sys-

yourself and your helpers—paid
or unpaid—from falls. way clamp that grabs the rope if tem, the ascender will grab the
there is any downward pull, so you rope, and you'll fall only as far as
The most efficient way to protect can go up but not down. You can the slack of the lanyard and rope
against falls when you're working release the ascender, however, dur- will allow.
on a roof is with a personal fall-ar- ing a controlled descent.
rest system, which consists of a These fall-arrest systems offer ex-
full-body harness with a ring at the To use an ascender, clamp it onto a cellent protection and cost around
center of the harness’s back. One rope, and clip the rope into an an- $350 for a starter kit, which includes
end of a lanyard, or tether, clips chor that’s securely nailed into the all you'll need for a residential job.
into this ring. The other end of the ridgeboard or an equally strong Buy only OSHA-approved systems
lanyard clips into an ascender-type framing member. If you fall when to be sure you'll be safe.

Double-Headed Nails

Anchor to Go
over Ridgeboard

se!

. a « we

Ascender-Type Rope Grab

\
Sh

by hand for controlled descents. Plate anchors provide a place into which lead ropes can clip. The anchors must be properly
nailed into ridgeboards, rafters, or other structural framing members, preferably with double-headed nails.
 Framing
Hardware

M odern framing techniques

rely on a number of fas-
teners to speed the work and to
add strength to the structure.
Some fasteners, such as nails
and screws, are familiar to most people, although even
these items come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Other
fasteners perform more specialized functions, and un-
less you've built a structure of some kind, they may be
unfamiliar to you. This chapter describes framing fas-
teners and covers their intended uses. It starts off with
nails and screws and goes on to discuss connectors,
bolts, and the other specialized fasteners you may need
for your project.
54.
FRAMING HARDWARE

safety guard rails, and the like. $

Neils Duplex nails allow you to snug the que er” |BLUNTING
There are many types of nailheads bottom nailhead up tight, yet give yne NAIL POINTS
and numerous kinds of nail shanks your hammer claw a place to pull
Blunt nail points before driving
and points, each with a specific them out.
nails near the end of a piece of
fastening task and each with differ-
Besides common nails, the nails lumber. Blunting nails reduces
ent holding power. Nails come in you'll most likely use are ring- splitting because the blunt end
different metals, too. Carpenters crushes wood fibers as it makes
shank underlayment nails for sub-
use copper, aluminum, stainless- flooring; roofing nails for applying its way through the wood instead
steel, and galvanized (zinc-coated) of splitting the fibers apart.
felt paper, roofing shingles, and
steel nails for exposed exterior
air-infiltration barriers (or house-
work because the nails won’t rust
wrap); and finishing nails for win-
and leave stains and streaks on
dow- and door-jamb installation.
wood or siding. Nails for interior
Ring-shank nails have ridges on
work may be coated with resin their shafts for extra holding pow-
or cement to increase their hold-
er; roofing nails have large heads
ing power. to hold paper securely; and finish-
ing nails are thin, with small heads
Choosing the Right Nail that you can drive beneath the sur-
face of the wood with a nail set.
The trick to choosing the right nail
is to match the nail to the wood-
fastening task. This has largely Sizing Nails
been done for you when it comes As commonly used, the term
to framing because most lumber-
“penny” indicates a nail’s length.
yards carry only a limited selection The number did not originally
of the most popular framing nails. refer to the length of the nail but
Carpenters generally prefer com- to the cost of 100 nails of that size.
mon nails for rough framing be- Penny is abbreviated “d,” which Connectors &
cause the nails have an extra-thick stands for denarius, Latin for coin,
Hurricane Ties
shank and a broad head. You may so “16-penny nails” is written “16d
also see duplex, or double-headed, nails.” The nails you'll use most You can’t always depend on nails to
nails. You'd use these nails when often in framing are 6d (2 inches), hold the connection between fram-
you know you'll be removing the 8d (22 inches), 10d (3 inches), 12d ing members. Sometimes you have
nail—for temporary sheathing, (3% inches), and 16d (3 inches). to install a hanger, tie, anchor, or

c= |

—— SIZING JOIST HANGERS CORRECTLY |

Common
Always use the proper joist hangers. If a joist hanger is |
meant for two joists, for example, don’t expect it to carry the load of
Double-Headead
three. When one joist just goes along for the ride (left), its load-bearing
capacity is diminished.
<n
Finishing

Ring-Shank

Roofing
Choosing the Right Nail. Of all the
available nail types, house framing usu-
ally requires just four or five varieties:
common, double-headed, finishing, ring-
shank underlayment, and roofing.
 55
CONNECTORS & HURRICANE TIES

metal support to reinforce the joint. wouldn’t place ties or anchors at are attached to sill plates (the board
This is especially true in earthquake- every joint in your structure, but attached to the foundation).
or hurricane-prone areas. Some of there are a few places where they are
Other kinds of commonly used fas-
these areas, such as Dade County, commonly used or where you'll find
teners include post anchors, truss
Florida, have their own strict codes that the local code requires them:
plates, plywood sheathing panel
for anchors.
= Where rafters meet top plates (the clips, and nail-stopping plates.
Hangers and Ties. A number top horizontal board of a wall).
of hardware manufacturers offer a Seismic Anchors. Some an-
= Where ceiling or floor joists butt chors and ties are designed specif-
range of these anchors and ties for
headers or rim joists. ically for seismic areas like the San
nearly every type of framing joint.
Most of the fasteners are simply se- = Where bottom plates (the bottom Francisco Bay area. Local codes
cured with nails. Of course, you horizontal board of a framed wall) often require extraordinary mea-

Rafter Tie

as
ONIW
JAVMA

Anchor
Nail-Stopping Plate

Framing
Anchor

Truss Plate

Hangers and Ties. A great variety of hangers, supports, and anchors exists to make nearly any wood connection. Those
shown here are most common for framing applications.
FRAMING HARDWARE

sures for holding a house together

when the ground shakes. So before
undertaking any framing project,
check with the local building code
authority to see what regulations
apply to you. Typically, seismic
bracing measures require hurricane
clips between joists and rim joists,
framing clips between rim joists
and top plates, T-straps between
posts and beams, steel straps be-
tween piers and posts, and floor-to-
Threaded § floor hold downs at the corner of the
Rod E
building. The hold downs are made
of angle iron and threaded steel rods.
These seismic measures are not the
er sum of what you need to do—that
Lipiieewnt depends on local building codes,
which may require additional mea-
L Floor
| Assembly 1/2" Plywood sures such as plywood shear walls
|Eee
ee Gusset on cripple, or half, walls and extra-
long anchor bolts in foundations.
I")
iN
wa
1}

(>)es:3 aS fay) = wy Anchor Bolts

5" Nailing Whenever you pour foundation
Plywood Shear
7 walls, build concrete-block walls,

5
Dee
cena
Gs
or pour a slab, you'll attach a
pressure-treated board into which

Foundation Coed ioe

Bolt
you'll nail when you erect your
walls. You attach this board, called

Baias\|,
a sill plate, to the top of the fin-
Insulation | ||
Behind
ished masonry using anchor bolts.
There are a variety of bolts from
which to choose. You must install
most anchor bolts in the founda-
Hurricane Clip tion when the concrete is still wet.

NUNN:
It’s best to position your anchor
bolts before pouring concrete, tie
\. \q KY
‘ is
them in place with wire, then pour
ZC
\\\
-

your walls or slab around them.

No matter what kind of anchor you
use in your foundation, the tech-
nique for fastening the sill to the
foundation is essentially the same.
Always use bolts of at least “2-inch
ee diameter and, ideally, embed the
g :
a
:
Vertes Clip A} end of the anchor at least 7 inches
leas Ne Holes TH i | into reinforced concrete (15 inches in
unreinforced concrete). Space the
Seismic Anchors. Building codes in seismic- or hurricane-prone areas may require T-
straps, post caps, and anchor bolts wherever beams and posts meet or contact the founda- bolts ape DN? than 6 feet apart and
tion (top left). They may also require plywood shear panels on cripple walls and hurricane within 12 inches of the ends of the
ties, floor-tofloor angleiron-and-allthread hold downs, and extra-long anchor bolts at the sill plates. No matter how short a sill
foundation (top right and bottom left). Framing clips and hurricane ties can reinforce the section is, it needs at least two an-
connection between rafters, top plate, and rim joists or frieze blocks (bottom right). chor bolts. Always use washers be-
 57
ANCHOR BOLTS

Sill Plate_-@
Nut and Washer Clea
Sill Plate
@

|
Wet @/ 6

(
Concrete

i
Rebar<|
ag
Wall Form
MA
\ /
, Washer

| / SillPlate S
Wedge-Type

A
Anchor Bolt

Anchor Bolts. When attaching sills to existing foundation walls, use wedge-type anchor
bolts if local building codes approve them (left). Jtype anchor bolts can be inserted in wet
concrete (middle). Sometimes it is easier first fo attach the bolts to the sill plate; then stabi-
lize the sill plate above the concrete with a cleat (right). AS
ONIW
JAVMG

neath nuts when cinching the sills J-Bolts. J-bolts are metal rods that
ut and Washer
down to keep the nuts from sinking are threaded at one end and curved
into the sill plates. into a J-shape at the other. Before
pouring concrete you can hook or
You can attach sill plates when
wire the “J” end of the anchor to a
the concrete is still fresh or after it
piece of reinforcement bar, or rebar,
sets. If you install the plates when
within the foundation wall or slab.
the concrete is fresh, you won't
You can also just insert the bolt into
be able to tighten the anchor bolts concrete when the concrete is newly Sill Plate
until the concrete sets. In that case, poured. Ideally, just enough of the
you may have to install cleats threaded end of the J-bolt will stick
across the top of the foundation up through the sill plate so that a
to hold the sill plate in position washer and nut can grab it and cinch
until the concrete sets. Only then down on the plate.
can you remove the cleats and
tighten the nuts. Friction-Held Bolts. For friction-
held anchor bolts, you bore a hole
You can use anchor bolts for more with a hammer drill and slip the an- Rebar
than just holding down sill plates. chor bolt into the hole. At the base
Sometimes you'll use an anchor bolt of the anchor is a wedge-shaped
to attach a ledger board onto a foun- metal plug surrounded by a soft
dation wall or to attach a framed metal jacket. You set the anchor by
wall to a concrete basement wall. applying enough force to drive that
Anchor bolts break down into four wedge back into the anchor’s jacket,
basic categories: J-bolts, which are which then expands and grips the J-Bolts. The most commonly used kind of
the most common for anchoring sides of the hole, permanently set- bolt for attaching sill plates to foundations,
sills to foundations, friction-held ting the anchor in place. There are J-bolts sunk in concrete have a threaded
expansion or self-drilling anchor a few variations on this idea, one top and a curved bottom that gets tied to
bolts, epoxy-type anchor bolts, and of which is an anchor that acts as the rebar. Cinch down the sill plates onto
expansion bolts. the drill bit for its own hole. When the J-bolts with a nut and washer.
58
FRAMING HARDWARE

Self-Drilling Anchor Bolt

Hammer Drill Hammer Drill Drive bolt
i into anchor.
Expander \
Plug if \

; j Attachment
Self-Drilling cats saa breaks oft =
Anchor fe =

aad
aii
|

Anchor expands
in hole.

Friction-Held Bolts. Wedge-+type anchors are held in place by friction. For an anchor that goes in a predrilled hole, tightening
the nut drives a wedge at the anchor’s base up into the metal jacket, which expands against the drill hole walls, setting the bolt
permanently in place. Selfdrilling anchors use the anchor jacket as the bit for drilling its own hole. When the hole is drilled, a
wedge is set in place with the hammer drill, expanding the anchor’s jacket against the drill hole’s wall, setting the anchor.

Epoxy Anchor Bolt

Syringe

Two-Part
Epoxy

ICICI
ICT
CITT
MY
lV

1. Drill Hole 2. Clean Out Hole 3. Insert Capsule 4. Insert Bolt 5. Anchored Bolt
dr
ede |
Epoxy Bolts. For epoxy-type anchors, you insert a capsule into a drill hole. The turning action of the anchor’s bolt mixes up the
two-part glue, which then binds the anchor to the concrete.

you've drilled to the proper depth, Epoxy Bolts. For epoxy-type an- Expansion Shields. For sim-
you remove the anchor casing, in- chors, you drill and clean out the ple expansion anchors, you drill a
sert a wedge in its end, reinsert it bolt hole. Then you insert a two-part hole and insert a soft-metal jacket,
in the hole, set the wedge with the epoxy capsule and insert the bolt on or shield. With the jacket in place,
hammer drill, and snap off the top top of the capsule. The bolt breaks you insert the bolt or screw, which
piece of the anchor, revealing a the capsule, and the screwing action expands the jacket, pressing it
threaded shaft into which you can mixes epoxy that will hold the bolt against the shaft walls and holding
screw a bolt. in place. it in place.
 )
OTHER FASTENERS

are sized according to the diameter diameter of its shank, or the solid
of their shanks as well as their shaft of the screw measured at the
length. base of the threads near the head.
Common sizes for screws are 6, 8,
Screws. There are at least a half-
and 10 gauge. A 6-gauge, or No.
dozen common screw types, but
6, screw is “4 inch in diameter, a
you'll probably use only three in
No. 8 screw is '%4 inch, and a No.
a framing project: wood screws
10 screw is “16 inch. Of course, the
or bugle-head screws for decking
length for any of these screws can
(and maybe for sheathing) and
vary. A No. 8 screw, for example,
lag screws for making heavy-duty
can be nearly any length up to
wood-to-wood attachments, such
as fastening a ledger board to a sill about 3% inches. The heavier the
or rim joist. Lag screws, sometimes screw’s gauge, the more likely you
called lag bolts, are heavy-duty are to find it in longer lengths.
Expanding
screws that you drive with a ratchet The heads on common screws
sides grip
the sides or box wrench. They have a pointed can be one of four types: slotted,
of the hole. end and aggressive threads for bit- Phillips, square-drive (Robertson),
ing into wood like a screw, but they or star-drive (Torx). The object of a as

a,
re)
have a hex head like a bolt. Like screw head is to offer the maximum >
carriage bolts, lag screws are sized surface area contact between the =
Expansion Shields. Expansion anchors according to the diameter of their screw drive or drive bit and screw
ZL
use a soft metal shield that expands when ®
shanks: “16, Ys, and 2 inch are com- head. A slotted screw head has 2
a lag screw is driven into it. mon sizes for lag screws. >
about one half the surface area of a D
Xs]
Wood and bugle-head (also called Phillips bit. The more surface area
=
Other Fasteners deck) screws are also sized accord- of contact, the less likely the screw >
re)
ing to their thickness, referred to is to “blow out” or strip. That’s why m
Whether you're building an inde-
as gauge. A screw’s gauge is the Phillips bits are so popular around
pendent structure or adding onto a
house, you'll probably need other
kinds of fasteners, such as bolts,
screws, and staples, at some point
in the framing process.
Bolts. Bolts fall into at least three
categories: carriage bolts, machine
bolts, and stove bolts. Specialty
bolts add many more categories.
There are also about a dozen kinds
of nuts and at least four kinds of
washers. Each category of bolt, nut,
and washer has a specific type of
application and size requirement.
You probably won't find many
framing applications for machine
bolts, which have hex- or square-
shaped heads, and stove bolts,
Flat Washer Lock Washer External-Tooth Internal-Tooth
which have rounded heads with Washer Washer
a slot for a screwdriver. But car-
riage bolts, which have unslotted
oval heads, can be effective when
attaching boards face to face. Car-
riage bolts have a square shoulder
just beneath the head that digs into Hex Nut Locknut T-Nut
Flat Square Nut Square Nut
the wood as you tighten the bolt,
which prevents it from slipping Bolts. Of the common bolt, washer, and nut types, you'll most likely use carriage
and spinning in the hole, and they bolts with flat washers and square or hex nuts in framing applications.
FRAMING HARDWARE

Yh"
YX
YX

YY
LY
TPTyyVyy
yg
ASa
Socket Wrench
CIT

Slotted Phillips Square Drive Star Drive

be slotted,
Screws. Deck screws are probably the most common screw found on construction sites. Drive heads on screws can
the less likely that the screwdriver or drive bit will strip
Phillips, square, or star-drive. The more surface area the drive head offers,
ledger boards to walls and are best driven in with a socket wrench (top left).
the screw. Lag screws are ideal for attaching

construction sites: they provide

more consistent performance when
you drive them, and they don’t strip
as much. Some mechanics have even
moved away from Phillips and use
square-drive or star bits for even bet-
ter performance.
Staples. Staples may be handy for
securing paper in an office, but you
can also use staples in construction,
although they’re more heavy-duty
than office staples. You may use a
hammer stapler to attach a vapor
barrier, a wind guard, or roofing
felt. If you step up to heavier gauge
and longer staples, you can shoot
them into place with a pneumatic
gun similar to a pneumatic fram-
ing nailer and use them for trim
and cabinetry work or for attaching
sheathing, subflooring, and shingles.

Sheathing staples offer some ad- Staples. Standard hammer staplers are handy for attaching vapor barriers and roof-
vantages over nails. Staples are ing felt. Heavy-duty staples driven by a power stapler can be used to fasten plywood
thinner and don’t split wood as and subflooring. Smaller staples can be used to make cabinetry or to attach trim.
easily when driven near the end
of the board. Staples also offer that forms a U around the material literature to make sure you've se-
more holding power because they they hold in place. Before using any lected the proper staple length and
have two legs and a broad head stapler, check the manufacturer’s gauge for your application.
 D on’t let the framing term
“rough carpentry” fool you.
Rough does not mean sloppy. To
build a sturdy, long-lasting struc-
ture, you must measure, cut, and fasten lumber with pre-
cision. If your measurements are consistently off by so
much as %s to “% inch or your saw cuts are uneven, the er-
rors can add up quickly and cause wavy floors, out-of-
square door openings, out-of-plumb corners, and loose
structural connections in your building. A little attention
to detail, however, can help you avoid those problems.
This chapter takes a look at some tools and techniques
that can help you do the job right.
62
ESSENTIAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES

Using a Measuring Tape.

Measuring When using a measuring tape for
Framing Square
Accurately critical dimensions, don’t hook the
end clip on the edge of the board or
When you need to mark framing
you might get an inaccurate read-
lumber for saw cutting, whether
ing. Often, the end-clip rivets come
you are cutting square or angled
loose on measuring-tape hooks.
lines, a number of tools and tech-
You're better off sliding the tape so
niques help make the job easy and
the 1-inch mark is at the end of the
precise. Before considering marking
board, then accounting for the extra
tools, however, you need to know
inch at the other end.
what a saw cut is and how to take it
into account. Drawing Cut Lines. For mark-
ing angles on larger pieces of lum-
A small amount of wood is re-
ber, the framing square is ideal.
moved by a saw blade as it cuts.
A high-quality framing job depends For smaller boards, a speed square
on exact cuts, so you must account
or combination square will do a
for that wood when marking lum-
fine job if the angle you want to
ber. For heavy-duty saw blades, the mark is 45 or 90 degrees. For other
cut can be % inch wide or more. For angles use a sliding T-bevel, which
saber saws or reciprocating saws, you can set to copy any angle, or
the cut is much smaller. If you have transfer one from a protractor.
a board exactly 12 feet long and you Marking Level and Plumb
try to cut three 4-foot pieces with a Lines. For marking level lines,
heavy-duty saw blade, you'll end use a 48-inch spirit level. A 24-inch
up with one board at 4 feet and two level is handy too, though not as
at 3 feet 11% inches or two boards at accurate over long dimensions.
4 feet and one at 3 feet 11% inches.
You must account for the cut by se- To make sure something is perfect-
lecting a board slightly longer than ly vertical (plumb), you can use
12 feet from which to cut. When either a level held vertically or a
cutting lumber, be sure you have plumb bob. A plumb bob is simply
the cut line to the outside, or waste a pointed weight on the end of a
side, of the cut line so the board string. Dangle the string from any
you cut is the length you expect. point, and the weight will even-

Cut Line Made Sliding T-Bevel

with a Square

Speed Square
Drawing Cut Lines. A framing square
can act as a large protractor when you
draw a line from the 12-inch mark on the
short arm to various inch marks on the long
arm (top). A combination square can draw
Accurate Measurements. When mec- Using a Measuring Tape. The rivets _ lines parallel to the board edge (upper mid-
suring and marking lumber to cut, account on the end clip of a measuring tape can dle). Set a sliding T-bevel to transfer any
for the blade width, which will be eaten out loosen, compromising accuracy. To ensure —_angle from one joint or board to another
of the wood, and place your saw so the the most accuracy on critical cuts, start (lower middle). Use a speed square to
blade is to the waste side of the cut line. measuring at the 1-in. mark instead of atO. mark 90- or 45-degree lines (bottom).
 63
NAILING BASICS

String shows
true vertical.

Flumb Bob Nailing Toenailing

Nteooky,
\ \
\

Toenail is Toenail is Correct

too shallow. too steep. Angle

~
SS —

Marking Level and Plumb Lines.

Suspend a plumb bob from its end, and Angle nails Clinched
the string will indicate true vertical. A going into Nails
\ etd grain.
spirit level can be used to check both
level and plumb.

tually point directly below where

the string is attached. The plumb
bob’s string indicates true plumb,
which comes in handy in a number
of framing applications.

Stagger nails to
avoid splitting.
When nailing lumber, you have
three choices. You can face-nail,
end-nail, or toenail. Use face-nail-
ing when two boards are flush, F Raeeenia baad Tacked Nail
face to face, and you nail through to a thicker one.
the face of one board into the face
of the one beneath it. End-nailing
is nailing through the face of one . |IWILNAS
ONIGIA
SANOIN
board into the end grain of the
board it abuts. Toenailing entails
angling a nail in from the side and
nailing down through one board Nailing Methods. Facenailing, end-nailing, and toenailing are common nailing tech-
into the face of a board it abuts. niques (A). In toenailing, it takes practice to avoid making the angle of the nail too shallow
Toenailing requires practiced skill; or steep (B). When nailing the ends of boards, stagger the nails so they’re in different
it’s easy to get the nail angle too grain lines to reduce the risk of splitting the wood (C). Angle nails when driving them into
steep or too shallow. end grains (D). Clinching is a nailing technique common in concrete formwork (E). When
nailing together boards of different thicknesses, always nail through the thinner board into
When nailing through the end of a the thicker one; tack two boards together when you want to take them apart later (F).
board, stagger the nails so they don’t
penetrate the same grain lines; oth- other, angle your nails so they pene- nailing together boards of different
erwise, you risk splitting the board. trate across the end grains. Angled thicknesses, nail from the thinner
Also, when nailing from the face of nails generally hold better and are piece into the thicker piece to help
one board into the end grain of an- less likely to pull out. Finally, when defeat splitting.
ESSENTIAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES

Safe Circul ar= a ground-fault circuit interrupter

Tacking and clinching are two other
nailing techniques. Tacking is dri- (GFCI) to prevent against shocks
ving a nail partially into a board Saw Use and electrocution. If the power
so you can easily remove it later. source you're drawing from is un-
You'll make most of your framing protected, use an extension cord
Clinching is driving a nail all the lumber cuts with a circular saw. with a built-in GPCI.
way through two boards, then
bending over the pointed end to An effective tool when used prop-
erly and kept sharp, a circular saw For nonbevel cutting, be sure the
hold the nail in place. This tech-
is extremely dangerous when mis- saw’s sole plate is square with the
nique is handy in rough work
where you need a good hold, as used or when run with faulty cords. _ blade and that the blade is tight. To
Power to the saw should always tighten or loosen the blade, push the
in scaffold construction and con-
crete formwork. flow through wiring protected by teeth into a piece of wood and use

Caution: Unplug saw. Caution: Unplug saw. :

a Speed Square ;

Base Flate
Retaining Bolt
Tilt Lever Wrench

Teeth Pushed into Wood

Clamp holds blade
guard open.

aaa About /4"

Depth-Adjustment Lever

Safe Circular-Saw Use. Be sure the circular saw’s blade is square to the base for nonbevel cutting by adjusting the tilt lever
(top left), and that it’s secure by tightening the retaining bolt (top right). Always make sure you can see the cut line so you're sure
to make accurate cuts (above left), and set the saw’s depth of cut to clear the lumber’s thickness (above right).
 65
SAFE CIRCULAR-SAW USE

a wrench on the retaining bolt. The

blade should be sharp and matched
Rip
to the material you’re cutting. For
instance, never cut framing lumber
with a plywood blade because it
doesn’t have sufficient tooth setting.
Also, make sure you can see the cut oe
line while you're using the saw.
You'll find that your circular saw
can make bevel, or angled, cuts.
The base plate can tilt, offering you
cuts between 90 and 45 degrees.
The saw’s bevel scale indicates the Combination
angle of the saw blade. When you
bevel the cut by tilting your saw’s
base plate, however, you lessen
your depth of cut. A 74-inch blade
at 45 degrees, for example, has a
depth of cut of 1% inches, notice-
ably less than the depth of cut at Nea
90 degrees (2% inches). Always be
|e fe Ra a

peshel
Pate sian

sure that the depth of cut is more Saw Guides. A speed square makes
than the thickness of your board— an excellent cutting guide when cutting
usually by at least /% to 4 inch. square cuts with a circular saw.

Saw Guides. Use a guide when

Choosing a Blade Crosscut
you make circular-saw cuts. It takes
The best blades for circular saws are practice to cut a straight freehand
carbide blades, the teeth of which line because the circular saw wob-
have tungsten carbide tips for dura- bles easily and can wander from the
bility and long-lasting sharpness. intended path. Once a circular saw
Rip blades smoothly cut wood in the establishes a blade path, it tends to
direction of the grain, generally a stay on that path. If you push the
lengthwise cut on dimension fram- saw sideways, you risk binding the
ing lumber. Crosscut blades cut best blade and burning the wood. Even
across the grain, a widthwise cut. when you have a good visible cut
Combination blades are designed line clearly marked, use a speed
for both crosscutting and ripping. square to guide the blade.
For the general-purpose cutting Choosing a Blade. There are a variety
of saw blades from which to choose, in-
you'll be doing during the framing
cluding blades hardened with carbide steel
Cutting Lumber and
job, use a 24-tooth carbide-tipped
and those made for crosscuts or rip cuts. Plywood IWILNA
ONIGII
SANDI
combination blade.
Crosscuts represent the vast ma-
Blade sizes are determined by what to cutting speed, free of any obstruc-
jority of cuts you'll make in fram-
your circular saw can handle. Most tions. Then slowly move into the cut.
ing. Crosscutting means you cut
saws take 74-inch blades. Never in- You'll notice that the base plate has a
across the grain—in most cases
stall a blade that’s even slightly too guide mark that indicates where the
across the width of the board. Rip
big for your saw; it will defeat the blade is cutting, but some carpenters
cuts go with the grain, generally
safety offered by the saw guard. prefer to watch the actual blade be-
lengthwise, and may run from one
cause the guide varies with blade
end of the board to the other. You
thickness and tooth settings. As you
Making Square Cuts continue with your cut, the saw
won't do rip cuts as frequently be-
cause they change the width of the
When making any cut, position guard will automatically retract, ex-
board rather than the length—a
the saw’s base plate squarely on the posing the full depth of the blade.
less common requirement.
piece of lumber and switch on the Be sure that as you finish your cut,
saw with the blade set back from the the saw-blade guard snaps back When cutting on sawhorses, never
cut line. Allow the blade to spin up into its original position. cut between the horses. Always rest
66
ESSENTIAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES

Crosscut

Have a helper
hold scrap.

Use 2x45 to
support plywood.

Never cut here.

ee
direction of the grain
Cutting Lumber and Plywood. A crosscut runs a cross the grain lines; a rip cut runs in the general
the saw, increasing the risk of kickback
(top). Never make a cut between sawhorses because the boards will collapse and bind
and injury (above). Always have a helper hold scrap wood s0 it doesn’t droop and bind your saw.

the work on both horses, cut to the someone hold the scrap piece that = Always be aware of the location of
outside, and let the scrap fall away. you're cutting away. But because the saw cord as you work.
If the piece you're cutting off is plywood is so flexible, it can easily = Always cut plywood on a good
big enough to bind your cut, get bind your saw, risking kickback. stable surface like a set of
a helper to support it until you When cutting plywood, follow sawhorses.
finish the cut. Lastly, no matter these simple safety precautions:
Plywood-Cutting Guide. It’s
what kind of cut you’re making, = Always have a highly visible easy to allow the saw blade to wan-
always cut away from your body. cut line. der when cutting plywood, so use a
Cutting plywood takes great care. = Always have a helper supporting guide like a shoot board to ensure a
It’s tempting just to zip through the weight of the piece you're cut- clean, straight line. The shoot board
plywood cuts without having ting away. is simply a straight-edged board
 67
SAFE CIRCULAR-SAW USE

that’s attached to a hardboard base. make the cut, run the edge of Avoiding Kickback
For your straightedge, use any the circular saw’s base against the
length of plywood or solid lumber straightedge: this will create a Kickback occurs when a saw binds
that has two straight edges and is straight base edge that shows the in a cut or when you are overeager
saw’s exact cutting line. and try to cut too quickly. Kick-
at least 2 inches wide. Fasten the
back is dangerous because you can
straightedge to a length of 4-inch- To use the jig, clamp it onto the easily lose control of the saw. The
thick tempered hardboard with workpiece and align the edge of the primary way to avoid kickback is
glue and screws, allowing about base along the cutting line. Place the to use safe sawing techniques: cut
8 inches of hardboard on both sides. clamps along the extra hardboard slowly, don’t rush the saw, and
Screw through the hardboard into on the untrimmed side of the jig so support the scrap materials of
the straightedge, countersinking that the saw’s motor won’t run into your cut. Also, you can buy anti-
the screws. Trim off one side of the clamps during the cut. When you kickback saw blades. (See “Using
base by squaring the blade to the get a new saw blade, retrim one side Saws Safely,” page 43.) These blades
base of the saw, adjusting the depth of the jig so that you know the cut have specially designed teeth that
of cut to “4 inch, and placing the jig line will coincide precisely with the limit the amount of wood into
on a scrap of plywood. When you edge of the jig. which the saw blade can cut with
each revolution. The smaller gul-
lets, or spaces between the teeth,
reduce the chance of the blade tak-
ing a deep bite into the wood and
kicking back.

Scrap Cutting Jig

e pro® HARD-STARTING
™ Kone ws NAILS

Starting nails in outofreach

places can be easily done using
9
a hammer in reverse. Some claw |
hammer designs allow you to
| lodge a nail between the claws,
Ye" Hardboard
with the point facing out. Set
| the nail in place, reach up, and
swing the hammer once, setting
the nail in place. Then jiggle |
| the hammer loose and drive |
| the nail home. |

IWILNA
ONIGII
SANDIN

Base Trimmed
to Match Saw |e}

Plywood-Cutting Guide. An easy-to-make cutting jig, or shoot board, makes an

excellent guide for making straight cuts on panel material.
68
ESSENTIAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES

Troubleshooting e
Wino
yr HANDLING YOUR HAMMER
Lumber Problems
r

Grip a hammer at
Sometimes you can’t help getting the end of its handle for the best
some defective lumber stock in leverage, and be aware of the
your delivery. As the buyer, you're proper pivot points to use in your
free to reject lumber, by piece or arms when driving a nail. Use
by lot, that isn’t up to par. Some your elbow as a pivot point when
lumber will be on the verge of _ driving medium or large nails. For
acceptable, however, and many really big nailsk—16d or more—
framers choose to work with mar- you may have to move your shoul
ginal material rather than swap der into the job as well. Use your
it for new stock. wrist as a pivot point when driving
small finishing or roofing nails.
An established way of dealing with
lumber that is substandard is to in-
stall it where it has minor impact
of lumber called plates. The plates plates. Also, it’s crucial that the end
on finished surfaces. Framed walls
need to be true and straight, so you studs be true and straight, so you'd
comprise vertical sticks of lumber
wouldn’t use marginal lumber for never use marginal lumber there ei-
called studs and horizontal sticks

Se ea

Nails

For severely
crooked lumber,
kerf the bowed
edge and toenail
every other kerf.

Unacceptable Acceptable >

measure-
Crooked Lumber and Possible Fixes. Boards that are not straight still have to fall reasonably within the on-center framing
when you cover the wall with sheathing or drywall, the studs fall where you expect them to be (left). For lumber that bows ex-
ments so that
board, and toenail the cuts (right).
cessively side to side, you can also make a series of shallow relief saw cuts along on e face, straighten the
 TROUBLESHOOTING LUMBER PROBLEMS

ther. But for the intervening studs of true is good only for safety rail- crooked stud just isn’t worth the
within the wall, you might be able ings, scrap, or firewood. trouble, given that they cost only
to get away with marginal lumber. about $2 apiece. If the lumber is
Crooked or warped lumber can also
marginal and you can’t use it as
The important consideration here cause a problem if it bulges out of
a wall stud, you can bury it in the
is spacing between studs. When the plane of the wall. Correct these
corner as a nonstructural stud or
you apply drywall or sheathing, boards by making one or two cross-
cut it down to use as blocking.
you won't be able to see the studs cuts halfway into the stud from
beneath each sheet. You'll have to an edge. Hammer a tapered wood If you feel you must take extreme
depend on their predictable loca- shingle into the kerf on the hollow measures to save a piece of bowed
tion, say 16 or 24 inches on center. edge or toenail the cuts on the wood, apply a trick that’s usually
This means the center of the studs bowed edge, or do both. used when building curved walls.
will occur every 16 or 24 inches, Make a series of shallow face cuts
depending on your wall design. If along the outside curve of a bowed
Fighting Creoked Lumber board, and you may be able to pull
you use wood that’s so bowed or
so crooked that the spacing isn’t When fighting crooked lumber it back to true and toenail it. Pulling
consistently within / inch of the stock in walls, the best thing to do the board back to true may involve
predictable on-center marking up is to exchange the bad piece of lum- the use of a helper or at least a pry
and down the board, you could ber for a good one. The amount of bar or flat bar when you finally in-
get into trouble. Wood that far out energy you must put into fixing a stall the board in a wall.

Stud bulges from the

plane of the wall.

9
Nonstructural stud
provides nailing for
ingide corner.
Corner Studs

2x65
Toenail here.
Bottom Flate

Insert a
wedge
or tapered
wood shingle
here. IVWILNA
ONIGIN
SANDIN

Toenail here.

Mudsill

Fighting Crooked Lumber. Boards that are not straight can be buried in the corner. The corner configuration shown at left is
a common one. Note that one of the studs is not a structural stud but just provides a nailing surface for drywall. You can put
crooked lumber here without compromising the wall’s strength. Boards that bulge substantially out of the plane of the wall are not
acceptable in wall framing but may be fixed by kerfing and toenailing (right).
Section II

Building 5
the Frame }

7, Floor Framing I

re) Walls & Partitions 93

9 Gable-Roof Framing 121

10 Pane Hip & Gambrel 143

oofs

11 Framing
g Dormers 157
 wR ESR IE ORE ES

he floor system in platform

framing serves to connect the
house to the foundation and to
act as a base for the walls and
roofing systems. Building fram-
ing for a floor is an important first
step in the construction process. To make floors both firm
and structurally sound, begin with proven engineering
principles and designs. Then select high-quality materials
that are are sized appropriately for your project. Pay partic-
ular attention to making strong connections between com-
ponents, whether they be beams, girders, joists, or
plywood decking. This chapter will examine time-tested
design strategies and look at some of the components es-
sential to building a good floor system.
 73
STRUCTURAL SUPPORT

In most cases, a framed structure

rests on a concrete or block founda-
tion, which can be any of a number
L
of types, including slab, crawl space,
full-wall, and concrete piers. Here’s = =
==>

a brief look at these foundation

types and how their designs affect
the way you'd frame a building.
About 8" Below Frost Line
Le we EES a CSETay eee
# a

Concrete Slab eae

28 ad
YOOTI
ONIWV
Xs ey
The simplest form of foundation is |About 12" «
a slab, often called a slab on grade. <—
About 8"
A slab is a monolithic piece of con-
crete, meaning it is all one piece, Concrete Slab. Slabs are monolithic pieces of concrete. Thicker edges support the
unlike crawl-space and basement building’s live and dead loads, and thick interior sections support load-bearing posts
foundations, which you'd build only or walls. Soil beneath slabs must be carefully prepared to ensure drainage.
after you had formed and poured
their footings ahead of time. Soil
preparation beneath slabs is crucial,
Floor Joists
so before you have a slab poured, be
sure you've prepared the soil to en-
sure proper drainage around and
beneath the slab. Freeze-thaw cycles
and frost heaving—when water con-
tained in soil freezes and expands,
heaving anything sitting on top
of it—can easily crack a slab. Region-
al frost-line depth will determine
soil preparation practices. Typically,
you replace soil to 50 percent of the
frost depth with /-inch gravel. Don’t
take any shortcuts. A faulty founda-
tion is one of the hardest things to fix
after framing has begun.

Crawl-Space Foundation
A crawl-space foundation is a low
wall made of poured concrete or
concrete block that rests on a footing.
Once you've framed and decked a
wood structure on top of the crawl-
space wall, you'll have only enough
room to crawl between the underside Crawl-Space Foundation. Crawl-space foundations are short walls set on foot
of the floor joists and the ground, ings. Sills are attached to the walls using J-bolts.
hence the name. The minimum al-
lowable floor-joist-to-ground space minimum distance between the out- building’s live and dead loads over
is 18 inches. If you use a girder (a side bottom of the wood structure a wide footprint, distributing the
wood beam made by nailing togeth- and the ground is 8 inches. building’s weight over a larger area.
er two or three two-bys) beneath the
The footings beneath crawl spaces Prepare the soil beneath the footing
joists, the minimum allowable space
between the underside of the girder serve the same purpose wider sec- to ensure proper drainage, just as
and the ground is 12 inches. The tions of slabs serve: they spread the you would with a slab.
74
FLOOR FRAMING

Basement-Wall Foundation
Poured-concrete or concrete-block
basement-wall foundations are
common in many areas. Typical
modern basement walls are 8 feet
high, but you must account for the
basement floor-slab depth when
calculating the height of your Sealant

forms for footings for poured-

Anchor Bolt
concrete walls or the number of
courses you'll have laid for con-
crete-block walls. If you form or
build a basement wall at 8 feet,
your walls will have an inside ceil-
ing height of 7 feet 8 inches, be-
cause the slab takes up 4 inches.

Attaching Sill Plates to

a Foundation
Difficulty level: a,
Tools and Materials
= Basic carpentry tools
m Framing square
@ Circular saw
w Drill and %" spade bit
= Socket set or adjustable wrench
= Two-by pressure-treated lumber
wm Sealant
m Nuts and washers for anchor bolts
4" Concrete Floor
Measure sills to find bolt
position. For slabs, use two-
by pressure-treated lumber of the
same dimension you'll make the
walls—usually 2x4s or 2x6s. For
crawl-space or basement founda-
tions, you need to use pressure-
treated 28s as the sill plates. Using
a framing square, measure in from
the edges and ends of the slab or
foundation to determine where on
the sill plate the anchor bolts will
poke through. Double-check that Basement-Wall Foundation. Basement foundation walls are poured in place or
your sill lumber is pressure-treated, built with concrete block on top of a footing. After the walls are in place, a basement
floor is poured right up against the foundation walls.
then mark and drill the '4-inch di-
ameter holes for the bolts.
Cutting through the installed sill is openings before putting the sill
J Undercut the rough open- difficult. To make that job easier, plates in place. Later, you'll be able
ings. You'll eventually need cut a saw kerf halfway through the to cut the sill plates out of the way
to remove the sill plate where rough lumber on the underside of the sills using a reciprocating saw or circular
openings for doors will occur. to mark the inside edges of rough saw set to the proper depth.
 75
STRUCTURAL SUPPORT

Framing Square

Anchor Bolt

a YOOTS
ONIWVa

i Measure from the outside edge of the foundation to the anchor Cut a Y%-in.-deep kerf in the sill plate beneath rough openings
bolt. Then on the sill, mark that distance in from the sill edge. for doors to make removing this section of sill easier later.

Insulation or
Sealant

3 Fasten the sills to the slab using J-bolts. Seal between the sills and foundation, and use shims where necessary to keep the
sills level.

Set the sill plates. Place the finger-thick foam insulation or holes you drilled. The outside edge
sill plates on top of the slab or %-inch-thick sheets of foam the of the sill plates should align with
foundation walls. The connection same width as the sill. By laying the outside edge of the slab or foun-
between the sill and the foundation this insulation down on top of the dation. With washers and nuts in
is apt to leak cold air, so it’s a good foundation and putting your sill in place, use a socket wrench or ad-
place, you sandwich the foam be- justable wrench to tighten the sill
idea to seal this area. You can ac-
tween the sill and the foundation, plate against the slab or founda-
complish this task easily by using
blocking air infiltration. tion. Make sure the sill is level, and
foam insulation between the sill
and the foundation. Most building When you set the sills, the anchor shim it where necessary to make
supply stores carry ropes of pinkie- bolts should poke through the it perfectly straight.
76
FLOOR FRAMING

Pier Foundations Wood Foundations Girders, Beams

Pier foundations are not founda- Lastly, there are wood-framed foun- & Posts
tions in the traditional sense, but dations, which tend to be rare but
are inexpensive and easier to con- A structure’s outside walls transfer a
rather concrete pillars on which
wood posts, joists, beams, or plates struct than concrete foundations. great deal of the load in any build-
directly sit. Though some struc- Wood foundations are much like ing directly to the foundation walls,
tures, such as sheds, are construct- standard sheathed walls, except that but an enormous load also bears
ed on top of piers, you’re more instead of being sided they’re back- down through the center of the
likely to find piers supporting filled with soil and gravel. You erect structure. How that central load is
decks or porches. The reason is a 2x4 or 2x6 stud wall with top and carried determines, in part, the de-
that piers are susceptible to shift- bottom plates, then sheathe it with sign of your basement. If you want
ing out of plumb in areas where plywood. If you have a wood foun- your basement to be a wide open
there are freeze-thaw cycles or dation built, use pressure-treated area, with no columns in place, then
loose soils. If you use piers, pre- lumber for all the wall parts: studs, the load that bears down on the cen-
pare the soil where they sit with plates, and sheathing. Untreated ter of the floor must be transferred
the proper gravel and drainage wood foundations can be easily to the foundation walls through a
to reduce frost problems. damaged by decay and termites. steel I-beam. The I-beam ends sit in

Insulation as
Lag Screws Pressure-lTreated Appropriate ___

Metal
Post
Anchor

Gravel Backfill
Pressure-Treated
Anchor Bolt Two-by Footing Flate
4" Concrete Slab
Below Frost Line
Pier Foundations. Metal brackets make a structurally sound Wood Foundations. Increasingly rare but popular in certain
connection between concrete piers and wood posts (top). Piers parts of the United States and Canada, wood foundations use
may attach directly to joists, girders, and beams using anchor treated wood and are built much like standard walls, with
bolts (bottom) or brackets. studs, plates, and plywood sheathing.
 ZL.
GIRDERS, BEAMS & POSTS

pockets in the foundation walls at Larger girders can carry heavier pipes usually filled with concrete.
each end of the room and—if it’s loads longer distances between The base of a wood post or lally
sized properly—will adequately supporting columns. column should always be support-
support the load from above. ed by a footing that helps distrib-
Wood girders should sit in a foun-

L
ute the load it carries.
If you don’t mind having a column dation pocket and bear at least
or two in the basement or if a cost- 4 inches on the bottom of the pock-
et. The depth of the pocket depends
Steel I-Beams
ly steel -beam is out of your bud-
get, then you can use simple wood on the size of the girder. Because Let’s say you have a basement TOR
DIOS
POTD

girders, which carry the house loads the girder is wood, leave 4 inch on that’s 30 feet long and 30 feet wide.
between columns. The columns, in either side of the pocket for ventila- It would be easy to divide this space
turn, transfer part of the load to the tion. The elevation of the pocket by running load-bearing columns
basement floor. must be precise, so the top of the or a wall across the room to support
girder sits at the same elevation a girder, making the longest span
Usually when you install a girder or JOOTS
ONIWVa
as the top of the sill plate. 15 feet, a distance easily handled by ere
I-beam, you'll have to shim it to the
properly sized framing lumber. But
correct elevation. Foundation wall Girder Support. Girders are
if you wanted that space open—for a
pockets are left 2 inch or so lower supported by walls and posts or
play room, utility room, workshop,
to leave space for adjustment. Bro- columns, generally spaced 8 to
or game room, for instance—you
ken pieces of slate are usually used 10 feet apart. Posts and columns
wouldn’t want to divide it down the
for shimming rather than wood, should stand plumb and are at-
center of the room.
which compresses too easily. tached to the underside of girders
with metal brackets that are lag- For wider spans, therefore, it may
Joists that don’t overlap beams or
screwed into place. Posts are made be necessary to install an I-beam
girders will likely rest partially on
of wood; columns, called lally supported by one column—or even
blocking (for I-beams) or ledger
columns, are heavy-gauge steel none—spanning where a column-
boards (for girders). The blocking
and ledgers determine the eleva-
tion at the top edge of the joists, Anchor Bolts

which must be level and consis- Sill Plate

tent, especially where they meet
at the girder or beam. If the joists
butt a girder, joist hangers can
also hold them in place. If the '

11
joists lap face-to-face as they rest Typical Pocket V1
net

on a girder or I-beam, you need for Oxl2 Girder a

Vy
Vy
Vat
Lt

to install blocking between them to jer 4" Minimum

ae + ' .

keep them from tilting or flopping Bearing

over.
Yo" Clearance—
Use slate shims.
Wood Girders
In most wood-framed structures, 2x12 Flanks
a girder is the main supporting Built-up Girder
beam. Made of wood, the girder
runs the length of a building, bear-
1Gd Nails
ing large loads from above and
partially transferring them to sup-
port columns or posts.
Girders that are a solid piece of
dimension lumber, or a timber,
are expensive and hard to obtain, 6x6 Post
so most girders are made by face-
nailing together smaller pieces of
dimension lumber, like four 210s
or three 2x12s, to create a structural Girder Support. Pockets in the foundation provide a seat in which girders sit, but the
girder. The size of the girder de- girder must bear at least 4 in. on the foundation and have / in. of clearance on each side
pends on what loads it will carry. for air circulation. The top of the girder should come flush with the top of the sill plate.
78
FLOOR FRAMING

supported girder would otherwise

be to transfer the loads from the
building to the outside walls. I-
beams are typically made of steel
and are shaped like the capital let-
ter I (in cross section), with hori-
zontal webs at the top and bottom.
Steel beams are far more costly than Centerline of
wood, but they have the capacity See Template
to span long distances without de-
flection and can carry great loads.
(Don’t guess at what size beam
to get; have an engineer specify it
for you.) The ends of steel I-beams
usually rest in a pocket in the foun- Centerline of
dation wall and must bear on that Template fe in
pocket at least 4 inches. The eleva-
tion of the foundation wall pock-
et must be precisely positioned,
because the top web of the steel I-
beam should be flush with the top
of the sill plate.

Installing Columns
and Posts
Lally columns and pressure-treated
wood posts rest on a concrete foot- Measure ana
ing over which is poured a floor mark centerlines
on four sides of
slab. The slab will seal the column form. Align with
or post and footing in place. h ole template
late.
Form Centerline
Lally-Column Installation.
You fasten lally columns to foot-
ings with four short anchor bolts or
J-bolts. Before pouring a slab, form
and pour a 12 x 12-inch lally-col-
umn footing 8 inches deep using
two-by lumber. During the pour,
Steel Column
have a wood template ready with
Top of Slab 4" above
holes positioned to match the bolt Top of Footing
holes in the lally-column plate.
Insert J-bolts into the holes of the
template, and hand-tighten the nuts
to hold the J-bolts in place. When
you pour the footing, lay the tem-
plate in place so you can properly
insert the J-bolts into the fresh con-
crete. Once the footing concrete has
cured, remove the template, plumb Concrete Footing
the lally column in place, and cinch
down on the J-bolts’ nuts and wash-
ers to attach the lally column to the
footing. With lally columns posi- Lally-Column Installation. When setting lally-column footings, frame the footing
tioned, you can then pour the base- with wood, and hold the lally column’s anchor bolts in place with a wood template
ment floor slab. that matches the holes in the bottom of the column.
 GIRDERS, BEAMS & POSTS

Wood-Post Installation. For

the base of wood posts, as with CUTTING POSTS SQUARE
columns, you'll create a concrete
| When cutting posts with a handsaw, install temporary cutting
pier footing (ideally with a connec-
| guides at the cut line. You can use any straight, thin material.
tor or a steel rod protruding from
its center) that you seal in concrete
when you pour your floor. Before |
pouring the slab, use two-by lum-
ber to create 12 x 12-inch concrete O
piers 8 inches deep. During the | Cue lare O
7O

footing pour, insert either a steel | eed ~

rod or a post anchor in the wet S
concrete. If you’re using a steel =
Le
rod, drill a hole in the base of the 0
post to receive the steel rod.
Once the pier concrete has cured,
plumb the pressure-treated post
in place. Lag-screw the post to
the anchor if you've used anchors. |
Pour the slab around the concrete
pier. If you’re installing posts ina
crawl-space foundation, the posts
should be seated on properly set
concrete piers in well-drained soil.
Be sure to position the concrete
piers directly beneath the girder
or beam the posts will support. ee

Concrete Fier

Wood-Post Installation. When setting wood posts on piers, install a steel rod in the pier that will protrude into a predrilled
hole in the post, or use brackets set in concrete to support the post with a plate and straps.
80
FLOOR FRAMING

Column and Post Attachment. girders and I-beams with angle- along the bottom of the member’s
Columns and posts attach to the iron brackets or metal post caps. outside faces. A ledger board is es-
underside of girders or I-beams. sentially a shelf on which the joists
Columns have flat flanges at their Preparing Girders and rest. When the joists are in place
you can join the tops of the joists
tops that accommodate four bolts. I-Beams for Floor Joists across the girder or I-beam with
The bolts fasten the flange to the
bottom of I-beams. For girders, the Normally when you install floor scab boards, or if you've set them
column’s flange should sit flush on joists, you lap them over the top high enough, you can notch the
the underside of the girder. Insert of the girder or I-beam. If you want joists to join each other over the
lag screws through the column’s the joists to be flush with the top of center of the girder or beam. If you
flange, and tighten them with a sock- the girder or beam, you may have use scab boards, make sure they
et wrench. Wooden posts attach to to install ledger boards or blocking extend at least 12 inches onto each

Steel |-Beam

Angle lron

Column and Post Attachment. Bolt lally columns to steel beams through a flange at the column’s top; fasten them to wood
girders with lag screws. A variety of brackets are available to secure wood posts to wood girders.
 81
FLOOR JOISTS

joist. If the joists come flush with

the top of the girder or I-beam,
join them with flat steel straps. If
the floor joists are the same depth
as the wood girder and you want
them flush at the top and bottom,
use proper joist hangers.
To attach the ledgers or blocking,
drill holes for /-inch carriage bolts
through the girder or I-beam every
48 inches, 1/2 inches up from the
bottom. Drill the ledger boards with
Steel |-Beam holes to match those you just drilled,
and then position the ledger boards ad
ONIWV
YOOTS
on both sides of the girder or I-beam.
Insert bolts, washers, and nuts, and
then use a socket wrench to tighten
the bolts.

Floor Joists
The next step is to install the floor
joists. But where exactly do you put
them? Before placing the floor joists
on the sill, you must mark the sill
plate (and any girder or beam the
joists will cross) with an X where
joists will be. Floor joists are usually
placed 16 inches on center, which
means that the center-to-center
Built-up measurement from one joist to the
Girder
next is 16 inches. Note that your
measuring tape has 16-inch demar-
cations in color (usually red) that
you can use for laying out floor
Ledger joists along your sill plates. Also
note that 16-inch on-center framing
allows the edge of 4 x 8-foot ply-
Rout out subflooring. Steel Strap wood or waferboard panels to fall
on the center of every fourth floor
joist. Because the first joist will have
the panel flush to its outside, the
distance from the first joist to the
second one should be 15/4 inches
on center.

When determining joist lengths,

consult a span table like that on
page 26, and then account for the
thickness of a header joist—a board
that’s nailed into the end grain of
Built-up Girder
floor joists. Header joists stabilize
Preparing Girders and I-Beams for Floor Joists. Use ledgers and scabs to at- floor joists, provide a clean edge to
tach floor joists to an beam (top) or girder if you don’t set the joists on top. You can which you can attach floor decking,
also notch boards (middle), but that takes more work. If the top edges of joists sit flush and provide a continuous nailing
with the girder’s or Lbeam’s top, you can tie them in place with a steel strap (bottom). surface for any sheathing that ex-
82
FLOOR FRAMING

. a
tends down over the foundation. [ Rr Ss
Remember to account for the thick- | qe WW _ CHOOSING THE RIGHT CONNECTOR
ness of the header joists when you yne
aS Never use a hanger for anything other than the framing
cut floor joists for length: subtract
member it was intended for. A built-up-beam hanger, for example,
twice the thickness of the header
would be oversized and ineffective if it were used to support a two-by.
from the end-to-end length of joists.

Installing Floor Joists

Difficulty Level: a2
Tools and Materials
= Basic carpentry tools
wm Lumber
= Level |
© Circular saw
w 8d and 16d nails

Locate the joists. Mark an Heavy-Duty Built-

X at the end of the sill plate up-Beam Hanger
to locate the first joists. Measure
15/4 inches and make a pencil a, ern SSeS a

Left of Mark

1/2" must be cut from Right of Mark

the first sheets of 4' x &' Ss
subflooring on this side
of the girder.

Mark the sill plates at 15¥ in. in from the edge and at 16-in. intervals thereafter. Place the joists to the left or right of the
marks, depending on the wall on which they rest, and lap them over the girder.
 83
FLOOR JOISTS

Joists Lapped
at Gide,

ad
JOOT4
ONIW

Where joists overlap and rest on girders, toenail them in place. Then face-nail the joists to each other with three 8d nails,
2 two from one side and one from the other.

mark for the second joist. Using

16-inch distances, mark all the
remaining joists. Go back to the
marks and, using a combination
square, draw a straight line at each
mark. Then mark an X to the right
of each line you've drawn to indi-
cate where the joist will sit. If you'll
lap the joists over the girder or I-
beam, set the joists on one wall to
the right of each mark and set the
joists on the opposite wall to the left.
Peo
Install the joists. Rest the
SE) joists on edge above each X
3 Nail rim joists with three 16d nails at corners; toenail them to the sills along their that you marked. Toenail each
lengths (left). End-nail floor joists to header joists using three 16d nails (right). joist to the girder and sill using
16d nails. Where joists overlap a
girder or beam, lap them at least
4 inches and face-nail them with
three 8d nails, two from one side
=| It's tempting to taper joists so they fit below low-pitched and one from the other.
roofs. But tapering a joist too much weakens it. Never taper a joist more
than one-half its depth. Also, the angle of the taper should extend a max- “) Install the header joists.
imum of three times the joist depth. ) Mark the headers for joist po-
sitions as you did the sill plate.
Place the header joists, and tack
them at each end to the first and
last joists. One by one, plumb
each joist and end-nail the header
joists to the floor joists using three
16d nails. Remove the tack nails,
and plumb and nail home the first
and last joists.
84
FLOOR FRAMING

Blocking and Bridging

Because the joists are on edge, they
are not as stable as if they were lying
flat. It’s essential to stabilize them
by either bridging or blocking them.
Bridging is a technique that uses
“x38 (angled on both ends at 45 de-
grees) that form an X between joists.
(You can also install prefabricated
metal bridging.) You install bridging
every 6 feet along the joist’s length.
Blocking employs the same stabiliz-
ing principle, except that you install
blocks square between joists. Block-
ing is often used in small spaces
where bridging isn’t practical and
over girders or beams.

Installing Bridging
Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
= %x3 bridging lumber
w 8d nails

] Lay out the bridging. Pre-

cut all the bridge pieces. To de-
termine length, measure diagonally
from the bottom edge of one joist
to the top edge of the next one. Most
joist spacing is consistent, so this
dimension should work for almost
all the bridging pieces. Cut parallel
45-degree angles at the ends of the
bridging. Snap a chalk line across
the joists as a guideline.
1 Install the first bridging
leg. Working in one direction,
install one leg of the bridging X
all the way down the row of joists,
alternating on either side of the
Toenail top of
chalk line. Drive nails only into bridging only.
the top of the bridging, leaving
the bottom unnailed.
3 Install the second bridg-
ing leg. With one leg of the
bridging installed, work back in the
other direction, installing the sec-
ond leg of the X. Nail the top end
of the bridging to hold the pieces in
place. Nail the bottom end of the 2? Install bridging by moving first in one direction across the floor’s width. Nail
bridging only after you’ve installed only the top of the bridging until after decking is in place.
 85
FLOOR JOISTS

the subfloor on the joists. The sub-

floor will hold the joists in place at a
consistent elevation. If you nail the
bridging into place, top and bot-

L
tom, before the decking is on, you
risk misaligning the joists, making
for an uneven floor.

Installing Blocking
Difficulty Level:
Tools and Materials
YOOTI
ONIWV
m Basic carpentry tools
= Two-by blocking lumber (same
dimensions as joists)
w 6d and 16d nails

™ Cut the blocking. Cut blocks

d out of the same type of lumber
used for joists. (Use 2x10 blocks if
the joists are 2x10, 2x12 blocks for
2x12 joists, and so on.) Measure be-
tween the joists exactly where you'll
put the blocking, and cut the blocks
so they fit snugly.
Install the blocks. Insert the

ss
blocks between joists. Stagger
them 1'/ inches over girders to

3 Install bridging in the other direction. After decking is installed, drive home nails make it easier to nail through the
on the bottom of both sections of bridging. joists into the blocks’ end grain.

Staggered

Install blocking in small spaces and over girders. Blocking

should fit snugly. 2 to nail into the end grain of the blocks.
FLOOR FRAMING

ACCOMMODATING WIRING, PLUMBING & DUCTWORK

A piece of lumber’s strength depends on its entire dimen- At least 2’.

sion, without any notches or holes made in it. The more
holes and notches you put in the lumber, the weaker it
becomes. During house construction, it’s often necessary
to drill or notch lumber to make room for running wires,
heating ducts, and pipes through the walls. It’s easy to
do this the wrong way, by hacking at the wood wher-
ever it’s convenient. By following a few simple rules,
however, you can safely notch and drill wood. When
calculating the sizes of notches and holes, use actual,
not nominal, dimensions.
Try not to cut a hole in a joist closer than 2 inches to
the edge. Doing so weakens the joist considerably and
Hole No More Than One-Third
increases the risk of nicking wires, pipes, or ducts with Joist Depth .
fasteners screwed or nailed through the decking. PX

Never cut a hole bigger than one-third the depth of

the joist. This weakens the joist too much because you're
removing one-third of its strength at that particular point.
If you're using 2x10 joists, make the maximum hole size
3 inches; for 2x12s, make it 3% inches.
Never make a notch in the middle third of a joist’s
length. This is where the loads really test the joist, at its
aes so avoid anything that would compromise its
strength in this crucial section.

Notches in joists should be no deeper than

one-sixth the joist’s depth (one-quarter the
depth near the end of the joist) and no longer
than one-third the joist’s depth. Cover notches
with steel plates. Protective Steel Plate

The rules listed above apply mostly to run-

ning wires or pipes. If you get into running
ducts, zero-clearance chimney pipes, or
items larger than one-third the depth of the Oneé-Sixth Depth
of Joist Max.
joists, you'll likely either build a special
chase or passageway for running these ser-
vices or suspend them using metal straps.
Additionally, be aware that electricians and
One-Third Depth
plumbers commonly over-drill and over-notch of Joist Max.
joists for running their wires and pipes. It
may be your job to see that they are aware
of the structural principles listed above.
 87
FLOOR JOISTS

Rough Openings in
Floor Joists
Most joist-framed floors have rough

L
openings in them for such things
as stairways or chimneys. Framing
rough openings in floors follows
a simple logic: the joists that define
the rough opening—called trimmers
if they run lengthwise and headers
if they run perpendicular to floor Double Trimmers

joists—are usually doubled because

they have to carry the load that
would have been carried by the YOOTI
ONIWV
joists that were removed to create
the rough opening. Doubling the
trimmers and headers reinforces
these extra-load-carrying joists.

Framing a
Rough Opening
Difficulty Level: Wa,
Tools and Materials
a Basic carpentry tools Rough openings in floors demand that trimmer joists be doubled and have two
= Circular saw bearing points to carry extra loads.
wo Level
= Twoby joist lumber
w 16d nails

T Install the trimmer joists.

Measure the rough-opening
dimensions on the plan, and cut
the necessary lumber accordingly.
Double up joists on both sides of
Double Header
the rough opening, but don’t just
scab the extra trimmer joists on.
All trimmer joists should have Double Trimmer
bearing points on both ends. Face-
nail the trimmers every 48 inches
with three 16d nails.
Install the header joists.
Mark the header positions on
inside trimmer joists at both ends
of the rough opening. Install the
headers by running a double thick-
ness of joist lumber perpendicular
to the floor joists. As you install the
headers, check for square and to
make sure you maintain the rough
opening’s required end-to-end in-
side-to-inside joist dimensions. Use 2 Install double headers at both ends of the rough opening using joist hangers.
joist hangers.
88
FLOOR FRAMING

3 Install the tail joists. Often the regular floor joists. Tail joists Cantilevered Joists
you'll run shorter joists, called won't carry much of a load, but
Cantilevered, or overhanging,
tail joists, from the headers to the they’re essential for spacing and
joists can add an attractive design
rim joists and girder or beam. for maintaining a consistent nail-
feature to any structure. There are
Space the tail joists according to ing surface for when decking
two kinds of cantilevers: one that
the 16-inch-on-center spacing of goes down.
supports a load-bearing wall and
one that creates a postless porch or
deck that doesn’t support a bear-
ing wall. (See “Cantilevers,” page
29.) These porches are often ideal
for second-floor balconies, though
many people use cantilevered full
decks on first floors.
The time to build cantilevered
decks or porches is during the in-
stallation of the building’s main
floor joists. If you try to create a
postless porch hanging out in mid-
air after you've framed and floored
the house, it would not be struc-
turally sound. You can’t expect
structural support from a ledger
board that you’ve scabbed onto
the side of a sheathed house.
Cantilever designs follow strict
rules, because overhanging a can-
tilever too far can cause severe joist
deflection or outright joist failure.
The unsupported overhanging
length of a joist should be about
3 Install short joists, called tail joists, between the double header and the rim joists
one-third the length of the overall
or girder. Use joist hangers.
joist, and the remaining length
should extend back into and be tied
TEMPORARILY HOLDING A BEAM IN PLACE to the main building’s structure. If
you cantilever out 3 feet, for ex-
When nailing a cross piece of lumber without using a joist ample, the joists for the cantilever
hanger, temporarily suspend it from bent nails at one end while you nail should be at least 9 feet long, ex-
the other end. tending 6 feet (minimum) back into
the building. If you’re expecting to
support extraordinary loads, like a
hot tub or frequent large groups of
people for barbecues, use the more
conservative “one-quarter rule”
mentioned on page 31: extend the
joists no more than one-quarter their
overall length, with three-quarters
extending into the building.
There are two common cantilever
designs: one in which the cantile-
vered joists run perpendicular
to the floor joists and another in
which the cantilevered joists are
an extension of the floor joists.
The same principle of overhang
distance applies to both cases.
 89
FLOOR JOISTS

ad
ONIW
JOOT4

Joist Hangers

Ca antilevers may be extensions of floor joists (top) or perpendicular to them (above). For every 12 in. a
heavily loaded cantilever overhangs, 36 in. should extend back into the building.

Load-Bearing Cantilevers.
Load-bearing cantilevers are entire-
ly different from porch cantilevers.
An example of a load-bearing can-
tilever would be a bearing wall that
rests on a joist jutting out from a
building. The laws of structural de-
sign severely restrict the length of
a cantilever that supports a load-
bearing wall: the cantilever can ex-
tend no more than the depth of the
joist it rests on. If you’re framing
with 2x12 joists, for example, then
the cantilever supporting a load-
bearing wall can be no longer than
11% inches to the outside edge of
| D = Depth of Joist
the joist. If you cantilever any more
than that, you risk shearing off, Load-Bearing Cantilevers. For a cantilever to support a bearing wall, the distance
crushing, or bending the joists. it extends beyond its supporting wall must not exceed the depth of the joists.
90
FLOOR FRAMING

4 ] +
—— novia

=o ae
== er ene

m\\+}----------

Underlayment

Subfloor: /s" or /s" Plywood

Nails Omitted for Clarity

Subfloors. Subfloors, which sit on joists, are made of plywood or other panel products. Subflooring offers structural support to
underlayment and/or finished flooring like vinyl, ceramic tile, and wood flooring.

Subfloors Note, however, that building codes

allow these materials only when
Apply adhesive. Use a
caulking gun to apply a bead
With the floor joists in place, it’s they’ve been manufactured using of construction adhesive to the tops
time to put down floor decking, or an exterior-grade phenolic resin. of all joists. Adhesive creates a good
subflooring. The subflooring forms bond between joists and plywood
Panel products are labeled with
a base for floor coverings like carpet and cuts down on squeaky floors.
a stamp from the APA—The
or wood boards or planks. For fin-
ish flooring like tile or vinyl, you'll
Engineered Wood Association. Lay the plywood. Because
(See “Rating Panel Products,” page plywood expands and con-
need to add another layer of panel
19.) Check the stamp to see whether tracts, leave a /-inch gap between
material (called underlayment) on
the APA approves the plywood or end joints and a 4-inch space be-
top of the subfloor. Of course, you
other material for subflooring, and tween edge joints. If you use nails,
could leave the subflooring as the
check the allowable span (also on the choose 6d ring-shank nails for mate-
finished floor if you’re going to use
stamp) to make sure you can install rial up to % inch thick and 8d nails
the room as a workshop.
the panels over your joist spacing. for heavier panels. If you’d rather
Use %- or %-inch tongue-and-groove screw down the plywood, use 2-inch
plywood for subfloors. Install the Installing Subflooring deck screws. Always stagger panel
thinner plywood if you're going to edges so seams don’t line up across
use an underlayment for finished the width or length of the floor.
Difficulty Level: a,
flooring; install the thicker material Start the first row of plywood with a
if you're planning to lay carpet or Tools and Materials full panel, and then start the second
install wood floors. Use “- to 1-inch row with a half panel.
plywood if you're leaving the sub-
= Basic carpentry tools
flooring as the finished floor. Choose = Circular saw Fasten the plywood. Nail
lumber-core plywood for floor deck- or screw the subflooring every
= Plywood suitable for your subfloor 12 inches along the edges and in
ing, since much of the nailing is
along the edges.
= Tubes of construction adhesive the field of the plywood. If you
® Caulking gun choose not to use adhesive, nail
Other panel materials you can use or screw every 6 inches along
as subflooring include waferboard w 8d or 6d ring-shank nails or 2-in. the outside edges and 10 inches
and oriented-strand board (OSB).
deck screws and drill
along the panel’s interior.
 91
SUBFLOORS

NS
| Use mastic construction adhesive, applied with a caulking
gun, to bond subfloors to joists.
y] Leave Vie-in. gaps between end joints in subflooring and ONIWV
JOOTA
%-in. gaps between edge joints, staggering the seams.

———

Nail around the edges of the plywood and in the interior following the proper nailing pattern: 6 in. on center along
3 and 10 in. in the interior for panels without adhesive; 12 in. everywhere with adhesive.

Avoiding Springy Floors tance with the joists. This problem the underside of the subfloor will
is difficult to correct after the fact, give you a spongy feeling when
Springy floors are almost always so be sure to size joists properly. you walk across the decking. To
the result of undersized joists. If avoid this problem, carefully follow
you find that the floor seems to flex fastening schedules and use adhe-
when you walk across it, chances
Avoiding Spongy Floors
sive. If the floor feels spongy any-
are you misread the joist span table Spongy floors are generally the re- way, it may be because of slightly
and either used joists that aren’t sult of inadequate attachment of warped plywood or joists. Go back
deep enough (say, 210s instead of the plywood subfloor to the joists. and install more nails or screws
2x12s) or spanned too great a dis- Small gaps between the joists and until the decking feels secure.

Deflection

Avoiding Springy Floors. Floors that are springy may be framed with joists Avoiding Spongy Floors. Gaps be-
that are undersized and are deflecting under the load. Bridging helps in avoiding tween joists and the underside of subfloor-
deflection by distributing loads to adjoining joists. ing can make a floor feel spongy.
92
FLOOR FRAMING

Underlayment grout will quickly fail with water-

swollen underlayment, and vinyl or
cross bands,” and be sure the expo-
sure rating on the stamp is either
Though some builders use the ceramic tiles will come loose. “Exposure 1” or “Exterior.” Those
words “subflooring” and “under- ratings indicate that the plywood
layment” interchangeably, they are Types of Underlayment is glued with a water-resistant
not the same. Subflooring is the phenolic resin and can withstand ex-
structural panel material you lay There is a variety of underlay- posure to moisture. Be sure the un-
down on floor joists. Underlayment ment materials available, including derlayment has a “fully sanded” face
is a thin panel material you install hardboard, particleboard, OSB, and (not “plugged and touch-sanded”),
on top of subflooring to provide a plywood. Of these various under- and install the better face up.
smooth, durable surface on which to layments, every type except ply-
put a finished floor like sheet vinyl. wood has exhibited failure in one or
Installing Underlayment
more applications. Hardboard and
Underlayment must be stable,
particleboard, for example, expand
water resistant, and free of defects.
when moist, and the APA has not
Difficulty Level: a,
Vinyl flooring, for example, will
approved all OSB as underlayment. Tools and Materials
show up even small underlayment
defects like raised grain, splits, or You can use APA-approved ply- = Basic carpentry tools
knotholes. And if the underlayment wood underlayment beneath car-
= Circular saw
is not water resistant, it may absorb pet, ceramic tile, vinyl, and wood
spilled water or other liquids and flooring. Be sure the APA stamp w 3d or Ad nails
swell. Tile adhesive and ceramic-tile says “underlayment” or “plugged = Plywood underlayment

Lay the plywood underlayment

panels with the long edges perpen-
dicular to the floor joists, and stag-
ger the underlayment seams at
least 2 inches with the subflooring
seams. Also, because you staple or
nail underlayment to the subfloor,
it’s not necessary—or even desir-
able—for underlayment end joints
to land directly on joists. Establish
End Joint Not a gap between panel edges of just
Over Joist 72 inch. Nailing schedules vary,
depending on the underlayment
thickness and subfloor type, so
Installing Underlayment. Install APA-approved plywood underlayment over sub- match up your conditions with
flooring. Leave Y%2-inch gaps at the edges, and don’t align seams with subfloor seams those in “Recommended Under-
or with joists. layment Nailing Schedule.”

RECOMMENDED UNDERLAYMENT NAILING SCHEDULE

Fastener Nail Spacing (in.)

Underlayment (positioned 1 in. Along Within
Underlayment Subfloor Thickness (in.) __from panel edges) Edges Field
Plywood Plywood (// in. or thicker) V4 3d underlayment nails 3 6
Plywood Plywood (12 in. or thicker) Ye to /2 3d underlayment nails 6 8
Plywood Plywood (12 in. or thicker) % to Va Ad underlayment nails 6 8
Plywood Plywood (12 in. or thicker) V4 18-ga. staples x Zisx Bin. 3 6
Plywood Plywood (12 in. or thicker) % and thicker 16-ga. staples x 7 in. 3 6
Plywood Boards up to 4 in. wide V4 3d underlayment nails 3 6
Plywood Boards 4 in. wide and wider 3d underlayment nails 6 8
 nce you begin framing the
walls you will begin to feel
as though you are making real
progress on your project. It is
probably the most gratifying and
enjoyable part of building a house
or addition because you see the
building and individual rooms
begin to take shape. Wall framing
is relatively easy to do with sim-
ple, straightforward carpentry
tasks. Perhaps the most important
thing to keep in mind when erect-
ing walls is that errors left uncor-
rected at this stage of building
will turn into hard-to-fix prob-
lems later on. If a wall is not
plumb or if the room you frame is
not square, for example, not only
do the building’s load paths
change slightly but the dimen-
sions change, too. Sheet goods that you apply to the wall
inside or outside—drywall or sheathing—may need time-
consuming trimming and may have unsightly, hard-to-
hide joints and corners.
In this chapter you will find explanations of the compo-
nents you'll need to build various types of walls, as well as
proven strategies for laying out walls, erecting them, and
checking them to make sure they’re square and plumb—
limiting possible problems down the line.
94
WALLS & PARTITIONS

Wall Framing cause balloon framing requires

extra-long 2x4s or 2x6s. Though
2x4s
vs. 2x6s
Modern “stick” framing takes one these longer pieces of lumber are Most load-bearing interior and
of two forms: balloon framing or available, they are often a special exterior walls are framed with 2x4s
platform framing. Balloon framing, order, and the quality is inconsis- or 2x6s, depending on structural
a predecessor to platform framing, tent. Platform framing is also easier and insulation demands. Because
was widely used in the nineteenth when building multistory struc- 2x6s are larger than 24s, they are
century after the development of stronger, so a 2x6 wall is structurally
tures because, as the name implies,
mass-produced lumber. The method you work from framed platforms
stronger than a 2x4 wall. These days,
was innovative for its time. It en- builders are increasingly using 26s,
for each story. Platform framing
abled people to build structures out which may be framed 24 inches on
breaks the framing job into discrete
of “sticks” (2x4s and 2x6s) rather center, as opposed to 2x4s, which
components, which are easier to
than heavy posts and beams. The must be framed 16 inches on center.
work on than a whole building at
exterior-wall studs in balloon fram- once. Though we will cover balloon Besides the structural advantage
ing run in one piece from the mud- framing only briefly, many of the 2x6-framed walls offer, the wider
sills to the rafter plate.
wall-building and wall-raising tech- studs provide more space for insu-
These days, the vast majority of niques used in platform framing lation. An insulated 2x4 wall can
houses are platform framed be- apply to balloon-framed houses. have an insulating value of between

Cap Plate Joist

Top Flate a

Second-Floor

wi
/aTa
as
ps
|7
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inane)
|
|

LEED
FS
EC
SRL
aR
IIRC

Floor
Joists Joists

4 Cross Section Cross Section

Wall Framing. Structures are either platform framed (left) or balloon framed (right). Platform framing is the dominant design
strategy used today.
 95
WALL FRAMING

R-13 and R-15. The “R” stands for

Header wchasotel
resistance to heat flow; walls with a Top Flate
higher R-value are more energy Cripple Studs
efficient. An insulated 2x6 wall can
have an insulating value of between
R-19 and R-21.
Trimm
Clearly 2x6 walls offer advantages Studs

over 2x4 walls in spaces that need

to be well insulated and structurally
sound, like the walls of your house,
addition, or dormer. The 26s cost
only marginally more, and for the
performance you get, the extra ex-
pense is worth it. If you're building
a shed or a garage, however, 2x4 EeTrimmer
walls framed 16 inches on center Stud
will do fine. Of course, you'll have
to follow your blueprints. If you
want to upgrade to 26 construc- King Stud
tion on any project, make sure your
King Stud
architect or designer knows before
you get the final approved set. Bottom Flate

Wall Studs. Before you can lay out

a wall for framing, you must know
a=
how walls are constructed. All walls Wall Studs. King studs run between the top and bottom plate. Headers support the wall
have a bottom, or sole, plate, a top load above windows and doors. Trimmer studs support headers, and cripple studs run SNOILI
78
STIVM
plate (doubled in bearing walls), and from the underside of sills to the bottom plate or from the top of the header to the top plate.
vertical members called studs. There
are three kinds of studs: king studs, Mark the plate ends. You'll raise it into position. Start by choos-
trimmer studs, and cripple studs. lay out and assemble the first ing two lengths of two-by lumber to
Trimmer and cripple studs are some- stud wall on the floor, and then form the top and bottom plates. Lay
times called jack studs. King studs
run from the bottom plate all the
way to the top plate. Trimmer studs
run from the bottom plate to the un-
derside of a header. Cripple studs
run from the bottom plate to the un-
derside of a rough opening’s sill or
from the top of a header to the top
plate, filling in between the top and
bottom of any rough frame.

Laying Out Plates

Difficulty Level: WA,
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
m Circular saw
m Level
m Framing square
m Two-by framing lumber
m 16d nails | Lay the top and bottom plates on the subfloor, and mark the positions of the end
studs.
96

Boyso
WALLS & PARTITIONS

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Lay out studs to accommodate 4 x 8-f. sheet goods so that they break at mid
ire

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stud. This requires locating the second stud at either 15% or 23% inches in from
GB

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the end of the plate.

of the first stud, not with its center.
For the rest of the studs to fall with
their centers at 16 or 24 inches rela-
tive to the sheathing panels, you
must subtract one-half the width
of a stud, or % inch, from this first
layout dimension. Sometimes this
stud spacing works out for sheet
goods (drywall, paneling) applied
to the inside of the framed wall;
more often you'll have to trim the
edge of your first piece so that it
breaks across the center of the stud.
Bury the trimmed edge in the cor-
ner, and put the factory edge on the
outside stud.
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mark
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along the remaining lengths of

both plates where king studs will
occur every 16 or 24 inches on cen-
ter from the second stud marked
in Step 2. Mark a T on just the bot-
tom plate where trimmer studs
will fall. Mark a C where cripple
studs will occur. Set cripple studs
to m aint ain the 16 or 24-inch-on-
cente r spacing wherever king studs
are mi SsiIng. Mark an H on the top
plate w here you'll put the headers.
After you've marked all the stud
positions, go back and square up
your tick marks using a combina-

3
tion square, and then draw a full Mark an X where king studs sit, a T where trimmer studs sit, and a C where
line across the width of the plates. cripples sit.
 97
WALL FRAMING

qhe Pee |Quick-SET

yer | FRAMING
For laying out long walls without a
lot of openings—or even setting
trusses—make this jig to do the job
without having to measure every
time. Lay out 1'42x1%-inch notches
on two long 2x4s at 16 or 24 inch-
es on center. Set the jigs 5 or
6 feet apart, and insert framing
members into the notches, all ready
to be nailed up.

Stud Configuration
for Corners
There are two types of corners you
will frame: inside corners and out-
side corners. Inside corners occur
where interior walls, or partitions,
Studs
butt into another stud wall. Outside
corners are the corners of walls. Both
Blocking
corner configurations use nonload-
bearing studs or blocking, spaced Drywall
SNOILI
8STIVM
blocks that simply provide backing. Exterior Wall

Marking Plates
for Inside Corners
Inside wall corners use triple studs
or blocking and two studs. The
blocking takes the place of the cen-
ter stud. The two outer studs pro- Marking Plates for Inside Corners. Plan view of a typical partition wall corner
vide extra support and a nailing shows that sheet goods on all walls have a nailing surface.
surface for sheet materials.

Whether you're using 2x4s or 2x6s

to frame the exterior walls, use a 2x4
as the middle stud or the blocking
for the interior partition’s first stud
when you make an inside corner.
In most cases interior partitions are
framed using 24s, except walls that
will contain plumbing drainpipes,
Center of
which may be framed using 2x6s.
Interior Wall
Locate the interior wall.
Determine where the interior
partition wall will butt into the exte-
rior stud wall, and mark the plates Top Plate
where the center of the partition
wall will occur.
Bottom Flate
y] Mark the blocking. The
mark you made for the center ] Mark the center of the intersecting partition wall on the top and bottom plates.
of the partition wall will be the
98
WALLS & PARTITIONS

~ Botto Plate
Dera sf

2? Measur e the plates for the blocking. 3 Mark the inside-corner studs and the blocking.

center of an inside-wall corner Marking Plates for as shown in the drawing below, left.
There are two alternative configura-
block. Measure from each side of Outside Corners
this mark 1% inches (2% inches if, tions you may want to use. One uses
for some reason, you'll use 26s Outside corners are a combination three studs in the pattern shown in
on the interior wall as well). Then of two stud configurations, one for the drawing below, middle. The
make two short lines, and label
each wall of the corner. On one wall other uses one stud in each wall and
you'll simply end the frame with a metal drywall stops on the stud
the space B for block.
single stud. On the connecting wall nearest the corner (drawing below,
Mark the studs. Mark the (for 2x4 walls) you may use three right). This configuration allows
locations of the inside-corner studs, stacked face to face to face. you to run insulation almost to the
studs. Measure 1% inches along The interior stud may comprise end of each exterior wall. The latter
the lines defining the B space, and three blocks instead of a full stud. two designs are not as strong as the
connect the lines. For 2x6 walls you can use blocking conventional corner, however.

2x6 Walls 2x4 or 2x6 2x4 or 2x6

Walls Walls
Drywall Clips
2x4 Blocking 16" o.c. or less
Blocking

Marking Plates for Outside Corners. Outside corners may be made of four studs (or three studs and blocking, at left), three
studs (middle), or two studs and drywall clips (right).
 99
WALL FRAMING

pro® NAILING CORNERS

esow MARKING FOR STUDS |
||
When you nail corners togeth-
When you need to mark the position of a stud, you can use |
|
| er, use five 16d nails. Start
a framing square. The tongue of the square is 11/2 inches wide, the same |||
about 6 inches up from the bot-
_ width as a 2x6 or 2x4 stud.
}
tom and down from the top,
|
and then drive the remaining
three nails evenly spaced be-
tween the first two.

ee oI : 02 ke! ee

7s ae esrePhre Lar Pa PP
es Ps ir PO
=
Evenly z
Spaced n
Qo
ze!

Lay out the first wall. >

Lay out the second wall. me)
Draw a line for the first stud at On the single-stud wall, draw =
=
the end of the plates, measuring in a line 1 inches in from the end of O
from the end 1/4 inches. Then mark ZZ
the plates, and mark an X for a sin- n
for a stud perpendicular to that gle end stud. Mark the second wall
stud on the interior of the wall. stud 11/4 inches from the end for
This is usually the first exterior a 2x4 wall and 9/4 (or 17’) inches
wall you lay out, with the first full from the end for a 2x6 wall to ac-
wall stud being 15/4 (or 23/4) inches count for the width of the adjoin-
from the end. (See “Laying Out ing wall studs plus the sheathing
Plates,” Step 2, page 96.) thickness of '2 inch.

Top Plate

_ Bottom Plate Top Flate

1 Lay out one wall with perpendicular studs. You can also Lay out the other wall for one end stud. Set the second stud to
use four studs or two studs and panel clips for the corner. accommodate the width of a stud and the sheathing thickness.
100
WALLS & PARTITIONS

rough-opening width to each side

Rough Openings penetrate a trimmer stud. If the
nail only picks up shimming mate- of the centerline to define the out-
Stud placement is crucial for rials, the window or door may side edges of the rough opening,
rough openings, which are the not be properly attached. You'll and mark the bottom plate with
spaces in walls where you insert most likely be installing windows a T for trimmer studs. Double-
doors and windows. You should and doors with jambs already at- check your measurements. The
take care to keep rough openings tached. The paperwork accompa- inside-to-inside distance of the
nying the units will indicate the trimmer studs should equal the
only about 2 inch to % inch wider
rough-opening size. Be sure you width of the rough opening. If
than the unit width to allow for
match these sizes carefully. there are no king studs already
plumb and level adjustments.
positioned next to the trimmer
Excessive shimming is not only
troublesome and time consuming,
Marking Plates for studs, mark them to the outside

but it may weaken the connection Window Rough Openings of the trimmers.
between the studs and the win- 1 Lay out the trimmer studs. ? Lay out the cripple studs.
dow or door frame. When you Determine the centerline of the Cripple studs run from the
nail through the window or door rough opening, and mark it on the bottom plate to the underside of the
jambs, for instance, the nail should bottom plate. Measure one-half the rough sill. Using 16- or 24-inch-on-

Header

Finish Opening >

Rough Opening

t— 2!8/s"—4
-— 247
Pa 3"

fT]
i Sill Plate i )

| cripple! rier! ing

ing

Rough Openings. The rough openings for a window and a door are similar, except for the bottom sill and cripple studs. Make:
the opening as accurate as possible. Manufacturer specs give you appropriate dimensions. (Specs courtesy of Rolscreen Co.)
 101
ROUGH OPENINGS

Main wall-
stud spacing.

Centerline

Bottom Flate Maintain wall-

stud spacing.

Mark the centerline of the rough opening; then measure one-

half the opening size to each side to locate the trimmer studs. 2 Mark the center cripple stud on the bottom plate; then mea-
sure from the king studs for any remaining cripple studs.

plan to install, and mark it on the

Maintain wall- bottom plate. Measure one-half the
stud a
opening to each side of the center-
line, and make marks. Mark for two
14-inch spaces on each side to the
outside of this rough-opening di-
mension: one for the trimmer stud
and one for the king stud.

Mark the top plate. Mark

top plates above door rough

3 Mark the top plate for cripple studs that correspond with the bottom cripples or openings for king studs and a head-
with an H for the header location. er. A header above a door often fills SNOILI
STIVM
78
up all the space between the top of
center spacing (depending on the Marking Plates for the door jamb and the top plate, so
stud size and wall design), mark
Door Rough Openings you won't always be installing crip-
Cs for any cripple studs that will ples here. If cripples are necessary,
sit beneath the rough sill, measur- | Mark the bottom plate. however, mark them now. Measure
ing from the wall’s main king studs Determine the center of the 16 or 24 inches on center from the
to maintain consistent on-center rough opening for the door you nearest main wall studs.
spacing for the studs. Be sure there’s
at least one cripple stud in addition
to the support on each side of the
Rou,
rough sill (provided by trimmer or Gh pening a

cripple studs). 1Ze

Mark the top plate. The

top plate above a window will
Bottom Plate
have marks only for king studs and
the header or any cripples that run
from the top of the header to the un- Measure and mark the rough opening as you did for the window, setting the
derside of the top plate. It will not trimmer- and king-stud locations.
necessarily have marks for trimmer a

studs. Mark the king studs that cor- Location of Trimmers Supporting
respond to the king-stud marks on Header from Underneath
the bottom plate. If the header runs
from the top of the rough opening to
the underside of the top plate, just
mark an H for it.
Top Flate
If the header is narrow and needs
cripple studs for support, mark the

2
studs that correspond to the crip- Mark the king-stud locations on the top plate to correspond with the bottom
ples on the bottom plate. plate, and mark the header or cripple-stud locations.
102
WALLS & PARTITIONS

cripple studs and sills. Mark the

Wall Assembly the area above the opening. The
header should be snug and square; position of the sills on the trimmer
nail it from the top and sides with studs and the position of the crip-
Cutting and Installing 16d nails. Put the trimmer studs in ple studs on the underside of the
Studs and Headers place; then measure and cut any sills. Remove the trimmers, and lay

Difficulty Level: a,
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
m 2xAs or 2x6s
m Two-by lumber for header stock
m in. plywood
m 8d nails

Cut and attach the main

wall studs. With the top and
bottom plates marked for all the
wall studs and rough openings,
it’s time to cut the studs. A power
miter box makes this job go quick-
ly. King studs will be full length—
91 inches plus an inch or so for
8-foot ceilings. Trimmer studs will
be king-stud length minus the com-
bined height of the header and crip-
ples above. You can cut the cripples
and sills to length after you put the
trimmers and headers in place.
Separate the plates, and insert the
king studs at the ends of the plates
and along the wall as marked. Nail
through the top plate with two 16d
nails. You'll square the walls after
you've nailed all the wall members
in place.
Assemble the headers. For VA Plywood Spacer
each header, cut two 212s or
whatever two-by material you’re
using to fill in the space above the
window or door. (See “Headers,”
page 29.) Use this two-by material
as a guide to mark a piece of '4-inch
plywood to size. Cut the plywood;
sandwich it between the two pieces
of two-by material (for a 2x4 wall);
and nail the assembly with six to
12 12d nails spaced 12 to 16 inches
12d Nails
apart. For a 2x6 wall, assemble the
header with 2/2-inch blocking to be
the same width as the wall.
Two-by Header Material
Complete the rough open-
ings. For each door or window Make a sandwich of two-by lumber and plywood for each header, and nail the |
rough opening, insert the header in pieces together with 12d nails.
 103
WALL ASSEMBLY

Difficulty Level: Wa,

Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
m 50-f. measuring tape
m Circular saw
w Sharp chisel
m= 1x4 lumber

Measure diagonals. With

a
the stud wall lying flat on the
subfloor, measure the wall diagonal-
ly from the one end’s top corner to
the other end’s bottom corner. Write
down the measurement. Measure
the same wall from the first end’s
bottom corner to the other end’s top
them on the floor. Drive 16d nails Squaring
through the trimmers into the sills corner. Write down this measure-
and Bracing Walls ment, as well. Compare the two
and through the sills into the crip-
ples; then insert the completed as- You need to check all walls to make measurements. If they don’t match
sembly into the rough opening. sure they’re square before you stand exactly, the wall is not square.
Attach the bottom plate to the crip- them in place. If you’re using struc- Square up the wall. To
ples and trimmers with 16d nails, tural sheathing, install 1x4 diagonal square the wall, tack two cleats
and then nail the trimmers to the braces across the face of the wall to to an end wall stud and tack one
king studs with 8d nails. stiffen it and keep it square. SNOILI
78
STIVM
to the floor so you can push on the

FIRE BLOCKING
Most building codes require
fire blocking—two-by stud
material that runs horizontal-
ly from stud to stud—ever
10 feet measured ante
in stud bays, the spaces be-
tween the studs. Fire block-
ing interrupts the upward
flow of flames and heat. If
there were no blocking and
a fire started in the base-
ment walls, it could easily
and quickly reach the roof
and consume the house in
flames by following the un-
obstructed chimney-like path
of the stud bays.
If you're framing typical
8-foot walls, the first-floor
top plate will serve as fire
blocking for the first 10 feet
and the second-floor top
plate for the next 10 feet.
If you're building walls that
extend 10 feet or more ver-
tically without blocking of
some sort, however, you
must install fire blocking.
surements match, the wall is square.
WALLS & PARTITIONS

Cleats

\.
\\i
\

\x4 Brace hte

. \ Wh
\\
\

3 Snap a chalk line to position one edge of a 1x4 brace. Lay the brace in place along the line, and mark the other
a pencil.

wall without sliding it. As you push Determine the brace length. If the wall is 96 inches tall, for exam-
the wall, retake the diagonal mea- Starting at the top or bottom ple, the brace need be no more than
surements. When they match, tack one stud bay in from the end of the 96 inches long. Make pencil marks
the other cleat to the floor to hold wall, measure diagonally along a line at both ends of the line, and then
the wall square. that is no longer than the wall is tall. snap a chalk line between these two
 WALL ASSEMBLY

and cut along the chalk and pencil

lines. Make multiple passes between
the two saw cuts; then chisel out the
remainder to make a path for the
1x4. Lay the 1x4 in place, and nail it
with two 8d nails at each stud.

Erecting Walls
manpower
Difficulty Level: a, intensive

Tools and Materials

m Basic carpentry tools
w 1éd nails
m Completed, squared wall
m Long 2x4s for bracing
= Cleats to nail into the subfloor =
and headers as
7m
mw 48-inch level Reo
Cut along the lines with a circular saw, and chisel out enough wood so the =
brace’s face sits flush with the face of the wall. >
Position the wall. Before re)
=
erecting any wall, snap a chalk =
points. Use the chalk line to posi- cut the angle the top and bottom O
line along the subfloor to establish
tion a 1x4. With one edge of the 1x4 plates make on the 1x4. Le
n
a reference guide for positioning
lined up with the line, draw a pen- Install the brace. Set your the inside edge of the wall’s bottom
cil mark along the other edge. Also, circular saw depth to 4 inch, plate, and nail cleats to the rim joist.

Chalk Reference Line

| Snap a chalk line as a reference for the inside face of the wall, and stand the assembled structure in place.
WALLS & PARTITIONS

——— Z

2 Once walls are erect, temporarily brace them using two-by lumber secured by cleats that are nailed to the subfloor.

With as many people as you need,

slide the wall into position so that
when you raise it, it will stand close
to the guideline. Erect the wall, and
align it with the line.
Brace the wall. Using a
48-inch level, get the wall as
close to plumb as possible. You'll
fine-tune it for plumb when you
install the adjacent wall. Run braces
from studs or from cleats on head-
ers to cleats that will be tacked to
the subfloor. When you have the
wall plumb, have a helper nail the
cleats to the subfloor.

Fasten the wall. With the

bottom plate properly posi-
tioned, nail it to the rim joists and
to the floor joists with 16d nails,
one nail per stud bay. 3 Nail the bottom plate to the rim joists and to the floor joists using 16d nails.
Stagger the nails from stud bay to stud bay.
 107
WALL ASSEMBLY

Final Plumbing and Check for plumb. To check thirds or more up the vertical mem-
ber, attach the second piece at about
Alignment of Walls whether a wall is plumb you
its halfway point with a carriage bolt
can use an extended level. Hold a
Plumb walls are essential; a stud wall 48-inch level against a straight so the horizontal member can swing
that is not plumb will haunt you 2x4. To make it easier to hold the freely. Place the vertical member so
through the entire building process, extended level in place, cut two that it sits on the decking against a
right up to the ridgeboard. Plumb identical one-by blocks and screw cleat, and lodge the pointed end of
the walls as you complete them; once them at each end to act as stand- the horizontal member into a corner
all the outside walls are up, fine-tune off blocks. Hold the extended level where a stud meets the underside
them for plumb and align them. in place on both the side and face of the top plate. As a helper presses
down on the horizontal board, the
of the stud wall. If the studs are
vertical board will brace against the
Difficulty Level: A, not plumb when you read the side
of the wall, the wall isn’t square.
cleat and push the wall to one side.
Tools and Materials When the wall reads plumb, tack the
Using a scissor-type lever wedged
vertical board to a stud to hold the
m Basic carpentry tools between the subfloor and the top
wall in place until you can sheathe
plate, apply force to the wall until
m Extended level the studs read plumb. To make
it with plywood.
m Scissor-type two-by lever a scissor-type lever you need two Check for lean in/out. Hold
w Nails boards, each one a little shorter the extended level on the face
than the wall. Cut the end of one edge of the studs at about every fifth
@ String at a 75-degree angle. This will be stud bay. If the studs are not plumb,
m Three identical %-in.-thick blocks the vertical member of the scissor the wall is leaning in or out. Release
m Two-by lumber the same dimension device. Then at one end of the other any line braces you attached in Step
as the top plates board, the horizontal member of 2, “Brace the Wall,” and adjust the
the scissor, cut two 45-degree angles wall until it’s plumb. (See “Erecting
mw 16d and 10d nails Walls,” page 105.) Apply force to the STIVM
8SNOILI
to make a point on the board. Two-

Carriage Bolt

1 Check the walls for plumb using a level. Use a scissor-action braced lever to correct outof-plumb studs.
108
WALLS & PARTITIONS

annie
LS
ea
aE
aE

2 Check the walls for lean-in /out. To pull walls inward, nail a flat brace to cleats on the subfloor and on the wall, and then
apply force by wedging a two-by kicker between the floor and the brace.

oa

LM
A WW

Use stand-o =e

block.

line braces to push the wall out. To Align the wall. To make tying the string to nails so it is taut
bring the wall in, attach a flat brace sure the wall or the sections against the blocks. Run the third
between two cleats (one attached to that comprise it are in a straight block beneath the string. If the wall
the wall and one to the floor) and line, make three identical blocks is true, the string will stand off the
use a two-by as a kicker to bow the of wood, 4-inch thick. Mount two wall 4 inch along the full length
brace and force the wall inward. Re- blocks on opposite outside cor- of the wall and just barely touch the
tack the line braces to hold the wall ners of the same wall, and stretch block. If the wall is out of alignment
in its proper position. a stri ng tightly between them, and the string either stands off the
 109
WALL ASSEMBLY

block or lies on it too tightly, apply

force using one of the devices de-
scribed earlier to set the wall right.
Staggered Nailing
Install the cap plate. Walls
should have two top plates, a Cap Flate
cap plate and the wall’s top plate
below it. You've already nailed the
top plate on top of the studs. Now
that you’ve plumbed and braced
the walls, a cap plate is essential
for tying the walls and various par-
titions together where they meet in
corners or Ts. The basic principle is
as follows: a wall’s cap plate should
always lap the butt joint made by
the top plates of the adjoining walls.
Drive two 10d nails at each end of
the cap plate and one 16d nail over
each stud in the wall in a staggered =
pattern. Also, when a cap plate or
Bes
n
a top plate forms a butt joint, the Ro
joint should always fall over a stud. =
>
Joints in the cap plate should al- 7
=
ways be at least 48 inches away =
from those in the top plate. al — O
Lap the cap plate over the top-plate joint at corners and Ts, and nail it with two FA.
n
10d nails. Drive 16d nails at each stud, staggering them along the plate’s length.
Framing Connectors
After you’ve plumbed and aligned codes in your area may even re- Seismic Bracing. Earthquakes
the walls and nailed all the cap quire these fasteners. Stud-to-stud and wind are two forces that can
plates in place, you may want to nail-on plates are especially helpful easily destroy a building. The dam-
install metal fasteners to reinforce in reinforcing the top-plate connec- age from wind comes mostly when
the stud joints. Seismic or hurricane tions where walls meet at corners. windows break, admitting wind-

metal angle brackets, and other metal framing fasteners add stability to any
wall and may be required by code in your area.
WALLS & PARTITIONS

driven projectiles or gusts that can plywood sheathing to strengthen

lift off a roof. The walls of a house walls. Some carpenters install ply-
Rafter Hange
also create a kind of sail against wood on both the inside and out-
which the wind pushes, so even if side of first floor walls, especially
Framing your windows stay intact, the wind if they’re cripple walls, which are
Clips can push and pull on a house with particularly susceptible to collapse
enough force to damage it severely. during earthquakes.
Earthquakes, on the other hand,
tend to exert sheer forces. They
can also vibrate a house and shake
Sheathing
it off its sills. Whether you are using With the exterior walls plumb,
structural reinforcement to protect square, and braced, it’s time to
against wind or earthquake, the ob- sheathe them. You can apply sheath-
ject is to keep the various framing ing vertically or horizontally. Hori-
components somehow tied togeth- zontal sheathing is generally a better
er, including connections between choice, although some codes require
the sill and foundation, between the that you put blocking behind hor-
first- and second-floor floors, be- izontal sheathing between studs.
tween the second floor’s top plate Vertical sheathing may be a good
and the rafters, and between the raf- choice on 8-foot-high walls where
ters and the ridgeboard. you have a nailing surface along
all four edges of the plywood. On
There are a variety of specialized
most walls, however, where the in-
hurricane and earthquake connectors
side height is 8 feet and you need
available for framing. (See “Seismic
to fill in strips to make up for joist

l
Anchors,” page 55.) Extended an-
framing and the like, vertical ap-
chor bolts between the foundation
plication compromises the superb
and the sill are essential in areas sub-
racking resistance of plywood and
ject to seismic forces. Between the
OSB. Installing fill strips between
first floor and the foundation, a hold-
full horizontal sheathing panel
down anchor in the form of a metal
maintains racking resistance.
strap is a good idea. This strap will
aS wrap around the bottom plate, span All kinds of sheathing materials are
across and attach to the sill plate, available—from gypsum and fiber-
and anchor it into the foundation. If board nonstructural sheathing to
you're attaching posts to your foun- oriented-strand board to conven-
dation, foundation hold-downs in tional plywood—and in a variety
/ }
the form of heavy-duty L-brackets of thicknesses. Your plans will
ex
as may be required. probably specify the kind of sheath-
= ing with which the building was
Between the first floor’s top plate
designed. One-half-inch CDX
and the second floor, a strap-type
plywood is the most common for
‘il
ee

EOOTETRETINNE
LLCS
AD
x hold-down may also be required to
sheathing. Also, most wall designs
tie these sections of the house to-
y call for the bottom edge of sheath-
gether. Roof connectors or hurri-
ing to overlap the sill plate and ex-
SHED
cane ties may be required for tying
tend down to cover some of the
the rafters to the second floor’s top
foundation or slab. This overlap
plate where the frieze blocks, top
provides the wall with the best
plates, and rafters meet. Strap-type
shear resistance and helps to seal
connectors are sometimes used to
Seismic Bracing. Seismic connectors out drafts and insects.
tie rafters to the ridgeboard. Between
include hangers between the ridge and floors, some codes call for a floor- When sheathing walls, it’s easiest
rafters, framing clips between rafter
to-floor hold-down consisting of a to sheath right over the rough open-
blocking and top plates, hurricane hold-
downs and straps between floors, straps steel rod and angle brackets, and ings that you created within your
that hold walls to rim joists, and founda- even a 14-inch plywood gusset be- stud framing. When you're finished
tion hold downs between the first floor tween floor joists. As a matter of sheathing you can mark the open-
and the foundation. course, codes require the use of ings and cut them out.
 111
SHEATHING

Sheathing
overlaps
foundation.

=
>
n
Qo
ae,
>
re)
=
=i
O
ZL.
n

Installing Sheathing
Difficulty Level: Wa,
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
m Sheathing material
m 6d or 8d common nails
m Chalk line
m Circular saw
m Handsaw or reciprocating saw

Attach the sheathing. When

laying out panels, leave a %-
inch gap between the long edges of
the panel and a /-inch gap where
panel ends meet to allow room
for the panel’s natural expansion.
Using 6d nails for panel thick-
ness of 4 inch or less and 8d nails
for panel thickness of more than
’ inch, nail through the panel into
the studs, all the way around the
panel. Space the nails 6 inches on | Install Yin. sheathing using 6d nails, with a Yin. gap at the long edge and a
center around the outside edge, Ye-in. gap at the ends.
112
WALLS & PARTITIONS

and 12 inches on center along the ners of the box. If you cut any far-
plywood’s interior. Always work ther than the corners, you risk nip-
from one end of the sheathing to ping at the header or sills. Finish the
the other. Never nail all four cor- cuts with a handsaw or reciprocat-
ners before nailing the interior, ing saw, and then remove the piece
because this can lead to bulges. of sheathing you've cut out.
Fill any gaps. In horizontal
applications, if the sheathing
doesn’t quite reach the top of the Windows & Doors
wall, you'll need a strip of filler
To finish the side walls properly,
plywood. Don’t install this strip
you should install all exterior doors
across the top of the wall, where
and windows. Carpenters often in-
the top-plate-to-plywood nailing
stall windows and wood doors only
is essential for stabilizing the struc-
after they’ve installed the roof and
ture. Instead, install this strip in
weatherproofed it with at least roof-
the middle of the wall.
ing felt to protect the expensive units
Mark the rough-opening from water and weather damage.
corners. For each rough
opening, drive a nail or drill small
holes from inside through the
Windows
sheathing at the four corners. Use Among the many window varieties,
these nails or holes to locate a chalk there are five most common types:
line on the outside of the sheathing.
Snap a line connecting the corners = Fixed, or stationary, windows are
to create a box, and use this as your the simplest kind of window be-
cut line. cause they don’t open. A fixed win-
dow is simply glass installed ina
y Always place narrow panels of Cut out the openings. Start frame that’s attached to the house.
sheathing between two larger pan- the cutting with your circular
els. Never stack large panels and run a saw. Plunge-cut into the sheathing, = Double-hung windows are per-
strip at the top or bottom. and continue cutting into the cor- haps the most common. They consist

From inside, drive nails or drill holes to mark the corners of

openings. Snap chalk lines connecting the corners outside. 4 Cut out the rough opening along the chalk lines using a cir-
cular saw with the depth of cut set to sheathing thickness.
 asa 113
WINDOWS & DOORS

ACCOMMODATING WIRING & PLUMBING : from the window opening when

you turn a small crank. You can
_ = Drywall screws can easily puncture or penetrate copper pipe or wire, open casements 90 degrees for maxi-
so you must set plumbing and wiring back from the side of the stud that mum ventilation. What’s more im-
will be receiving screws. Mark for holes so that when the tubing or wire
is in place it will be no closer than 11/2 inches from the stud edge. portant, you may use these windows
as egress because most of the sash
= Maintain a consistent elevation from one stud bay to the next, especial- area is unobstructed when you open
ly for pipes, which are inflexible. the window.
® Drill for wires with a %-inch spade bit and for tubing with a %- to 1-inch = Awning windows are similar to
spade bit, depending on the size of the tubing. Drill for larger plumbing
members like drains only in nonstructural partition walls. casements in that they swing out-
ward, but they have hinges at the
= Where it is impossible to set the wire or tubing back from the wall top. A useful feature of this window
at least 1’ inches, install a metal shield (16 inch in thickness) on the edge is that you can let it remain open
of the stud’s inside face to prevent screws from entering. You'll find the
protective metal plates in plumbing- and electrical-supply stores as well sera ale pons even dune
ts Wueynaaeter ett | a light rain. One variation, called a
| hopper window, has hinges at the
bottom. You can open a hopper
of two framed glass panels, called tilt them inward to make it easier to = outward or inward. <
sash, that slide vertically, guided by clean the outside. The tilt feature is = Sliding windows are similar to a 2
a metal or wood track. One varia- particularly handy for upper floor 2 double-hung window turned side- Be
tion, called a single-hung window, because windows are accessible ways: The glass panels slide hori- a
consists of a fixed upper sash and a from the outside only by ladder. zontally. You might use a slider a
sliding lower sash. The sash ofsome —_= Casement windows have hinges where you need a window that’s =
double-hung windows allows you to on one side and swing outward wider than it is tall. e
n

Casement Sliding
Windows. Although windows may be divided into five general categories, there is great variety within each type.
114
WALLS & PARTITIONS

Carpenters generally install gro® 7 foe

in one of two ways, de- qe ww DRILLING FOR NAIL WAX
windows
on the construction of the Kno
pending
Dabbing paraffin wax on a finish nail can help make it go
window. You can install some win-
easily into trim lumber, often with less splitting. Store paraffin wax in a
dows by driving nails through the
drilled-out section at the base of your hammer.
exterior casing, sometimes called
brickmold, and into the sides of the
rough opening. You secure other
windows—usually metal, vinyl, alu-
minum-clad wood, vinyl-clad wood,
and some all-wood windows—by
nailing into the sheathing and fram-
ing through a perforated flange that
surrounds the window. The follow-
ing steps detail basic installation.
Always refer to the instructions in-
cluded with your window, however,
because details vary according to
Hole Drilled in Hammer Base
the manufacturer.

installing Windows eae

with Brickmold we <n

the ladder. Staple or nail 15-pound is wider than 30 inches, shim the
Difficulty Level: BWA building paper over the sheathing, sill midway between legs as well.
F wrapping it around the top, bottom, — Check the sill frequently throughout
Tools and Materials and sides of the rough opening. Lift _ the installation to ensure that it has
mw Basic carpentry tools the window into the opening and not shifted out of position. Tip the
m Building paper See it as an assistant helps from the — window away from the opening just
“Whim noctae nal arsieabe es enough for your assistant to runa
Level the window. Shim bead of exterior-grade caulk behind
= Windows the sill for level beneath each __ the brickmold, and then press the
= 48-in. level jamb leg as needed. If the window —_ window against the wall.
= Shims
= Caulking gun and caulk
m 10d casing nails
= Flashing

Put the window in place.

Unpack the window and check
it for square by measuring the win-
dow jambs corner to corner. The
diagonal measurements must
match. If there are any braces or
reinforcing blocks on the window,
leave them in place until you’ve
nailed the window securely to
the house. Some manufacturers
recommend that the sash be re- .
moved before window installa- \\
tion to prevent glass breakage, "
while others recommend leaving \YYW
the sash in place to stiffen the \ \\
jambs. If the manufacturer per- | Remove the sash from a double- One person shims the window in-
mits, remove both sash to make hung window before installation to 2 side while the other checks it for
the window easier to carry up make it easier to lift. level and plumb outside.
 115
WINDOWS & DOORS

MP) i)
Bale \ ” i LS ae

Secure one lower corner of the window to the wall: then Plumb and shim the jamb from inside as needed. Check the
attach cap flashing over the head casing. window for square, especially if you've removed the sash.

Set the window. Drive a 10d SNOILI

STIVMA
78
galvanized casing nail through
the casing, securing one lower
ane”
‘ne
USING NAILS AS
PILoT BITs
|

corner of the window to the wall.

Casing nails are similar to finishing
For finishing nails that need
nails, but their shanks are heavier.
predrilled holes, use the nail it-
self (with its head cut off) to
Attach cap flashing over the head
serve as the pilot bit in a pinch.
casing. If flashing did not come
with the window, buy it at a build-
ing-supply store.
Plumb the window. Check
the window for square; this is Finishing Nail |
particularly important if you re- as a Drill Bit
moved the sash earlier. Check the
window for plumb. If necessary,
adjust the frame by slipping shims
between the jamb and the framing.
When the window is plumb, use
another nail to tack it in place on
the outside.
Nail the window. Install both
sash, and open and close them
a few times. If they work properly,
Bia \ceaten |e
Install the sash. If they slide smoothly,
complete the nailing. If the sash finish nailing the window into place.
bind, however, you may have to
reposition the window. Use a high- the gap between the window jambs
quality exterior-grade caulk to fill and the rough opening. Foam ex-
any gaps beneath the sill or around pands as it cures, so spray it gradu-
the window opening. Inside, use ally to prevent it from pushing the
fiberglass or a foam sealant to seal jambs out of position.
6
WALLS & PARTITIONS

a]
|

1 Wrap the rough opening with felt ~ Level and shim the window from in- 3 Finish nailing the window, checking
paper; run a bead of caulk; and side, and then begin nailing it at for plumb before driving the nails
place the window in position. one corner through the nailing flange. home. Nail just above the top flange.

Installing window from inside the house as

xhe Rr? |Easy-CUTTING
necessary. Begin nailing the win-
Flanged Windows dow in place on one side, using ynow WEDGES
1%-inch roofing nails through exist-
Difficulty Level: WA, Wedges can sometimes be hard
ing slots in the flange.
to cut after they've been set in
Tools and Materials Nail the window. Nail place. Make it easier to chop off
mw Basic carpentry tools through the flange on the the excess by cutting wedges
other side of the window, checking across the grain. Be extra care-
= Building paper for plumb. The best technique is to ful when handling these wedges,
= 1-in. roofing nails or staples drive the first few nails partway, though, because wedges cut this
m Windows fully driving them home only after way are more fragile.
you're sure the window is plumb
= 48-in. level and level. After several nails are in
a Shims place, check the operation of the
w Caulking gun and caulk window by opening and closing
it several times. Don’t nail through
w 1%-in. roofing nails
the top nailing flange. Rather,
w Flashing start the nail just above the flange
to allow the head to catch the top
Set the window in the edge of the flange, or use 8d nails
rough opening. Staple or and bend them over the flange.
nail 15-pound building paper over Secure the window in this way in
the sheathing, wrapping it around case the header ever sags: if you
the top, bottom, and sides of the placed nails through the top flange
rough opening. Caulk the perime- and into the header, pressure from
ter of the opening, and then place a sagging header would transfer
the window in the rough opening. to the window frame, causing
Wedge Cut across the Grain
Level the sill. Check the sill the window to bind or the glass
for level, and shim beneath the to crack.
 117
WINDOWS & DOORS

Installing Difficulty Level: WW, Before attaching the lock and head
Prehung Doors Tools and Materials
jambs, recheck the tolerances. Re-
member, the space should be a uni-
Most exterior doors are made of
= Basic carpentry tools form 6 inch between the jamb and
wood or metal. Exterior metal door. If the lock side is too tight, ad-
doors often have a core of wood or = Wood shims or shingles just the shim under the lock jamb to
rigid foam insulation surrounded m 8d casing nails correct the situation. Plumb, shim,
by a metal skin. The metal may be and nail the lock jamb framing; then
embossed or stamped to give it the Set the door in place. If shim and nail the head jamb at the
look of a wood door. Most wood the door comes with shipping center to prevent sagging.
doors are built in one of two ways: braces, keep them intact. Before
Trim the shims. Once you've
as individual panels set in a frame setting the prehung unit in place,
attached the jambs, cut off the
(called a panel door) or as a sin- run a couple Y“-inch beads of non-
protruding parts of the shims
gle plywood sheet (facing) secured hardening caulk between the floor
around the door with a handsaw.
to each side of a wood framework and threshold for a good seal. Place
(called a flush door). the unit in the opening so that it’ll
swing in the desired direction. Resi- Locksets
Prehung exterior doors come with
dential exterior doors usually swing
top and side jamb pieces, stops, and The term “lockset” refers collectively
inward. Remove the braces; then
thresholds. The doors are typically to the complete door-latch system:
check the clearance between the top
attached to the jamb assembly and latch-bolt assembly; trim; and han-
of the door and the head jamb. It
held in place with shipping braces. dles, knobs, or levers. A latch bolt
should be a uniform 16 to 42 inch,
The doors are generally 80 inches is a spring-loaded mechanism that
or about the thickness of a dime.
tall and 36 inches wide. Some doors holds a door closed and may or may
come with sidelights and/or double Attach the jambs. Use a lev- not have a lock incorporated in it.
doors in one unit. Most prehung el to plumb the hinge jamb on A deadbolt, on the other hand, isn’t
doors come with complete installa- the face and edge, inserting shims spring loaded; you can operate it 8STIVM
SNOILI
tion instructions, including the behind the jamb at the points to be only with a key or a thumb-turn
rough-opening size. nailed. Adjust the shims. If the jamb mechanism. A deadbolt will always
is twisted, insert two nails side by have at least one keyhole. Some-
side through the jamb to correct times deadbolts require keys for
the problem. Nail the jamb in three both interior and exterior operation
places from top to bottom. to provide added security.

Run caulk beneath the threshold. Plumb and shim the hinge jamb, Cut off all the shims flush with the
Then set the door in place. and then nail it in three places. door jambs using a handsaw.
118
WALLS & PARTITIONS

—— .
Every door needs a latch or lockset,
qhe rey REMOVING FINISHING NAILS which are available in many styles,
from sleek and contemporary to
bs To remove finishing nails, don’t pull them out with a claw |
_ detailed traditional designs, and
hammer. Instead, pull them through the board using end nippers or pliers in various materials, from burnished
and a block of scrap wood. aluminum to solid brass. When you
buy such door hardware, look for
_ heavy-gauge metal, fine machining
_ without sharp or rough edges, and a
| plated finish to withstand heavy use.
| Match the hardware to the door.
| A solid, heavy entry door, for in-
| stance, should have a substantial
handle-and-latch lockset rather
than a small knob. Think about se-
curity when selecting hardware like
locksets and deadbolt assemblies
for exterior doors. The following
steps explain the basic procedure
for installing a lockset, although you
should always refer to the manufac-
turer’s instructions, which come
with most sets.

FRAMING DETAILS
All residential doors te ina
wood (or sometimes steel) frame
made of these elements.
= The head jamb is at the top,
flanked by side jambs, one on
the lock side and one on the
hinge side.
= The sill, or threshold, which is
often eliminated on interior doors, Strike plate
goes here.
lies underfoot.
= Stops, narrow strips of wood
nailed to the head and side jambs,
| piece! the door from swinging too
__ far when it closes.
_ ® The strike plate, or the metal
strip mortised into the side jamb
on the lock side of the door, ac-
cepts the latch.
= Wood casings at the top and
sides cover the perecc tee any
gaps, and add the finishing touch
to the installation.
= Weather stripping, ideally incor-
porating interlocking metal strips, should be included rough opening is always large enough so that you can
all around the frame of an exterior door. set the door frame into place and adjust it vertically or
= The door frame sits within a “rough opening” in the horizontally. You might slip pairs of wood shims be-
wall formed Ptwall studs and a header. The framin tween the door frame and the studs to adjust the frame.
of interior walls does not always require a header. The You'll cut the shims flush with the door frame later.
 119
WINDOWS & DOORS

\ Mortised Lockset
| with Deadbolt

Installing a Lockset The knob or handle should be 36 to

Template 38 inches from the floor. Its hole
should be 2% inches or 2° inches
Difficulty Level: WA,
from the edge of the door, depend-
Tools and Materials ing on the lock.
Scratch Awl
= Basic carpentry tools Drill the holes. Bore a hole
for the lock tube into the face STIVM
78
SNOIL
m Lockset
of the door. Drill from one side until
a Awl you barely break through the other
= Drill with assorted bits and side. Then drill from that other side
holesaws to avoid splintering the wood. Next,
drill a hole into the edge of the door
w %/-in. wood chisel
for the latch.
Locate the holes. Prehung 3 Install the lockset. Insert the
“a = rs wood and metal entry doors cylinder assembly and latch into
usually have holes predrilled for the door. Mortise the latch plate
oS
Sy,
"
Oh aca
"i
locksets. If yours doesn’t, you'll into the edge of the door using a
have to cut them in. Using an awl *%.-inch wood chisel. Note that on
and the template included with residential metal doors, the edge is
Use a template to mark the lockset the instructions, mark positions still wood; it’s only the thin faces
1 and latch holes. for the lockset assembly holes. of the door that are metal.

Hole for Latch

Bore holes in the door using a power drill with a hole 3 When installing a keyed lockset, align the keyway as
saw and a spade bit. shown, with the slot facing down.
120
WALLS & PARTITIONS

Mark the door edge. Place Center the latch. Using a tion of the strike plate and the latch
the strike plate over the latch, sharp pencil, pinpoint the spot on the door jamb. With a sharp chis-
and mark the plate’s position on the where the center of the latch hits el, cut a mortise into the jamb equal
to the depth of the strike plate. If
edge of the door as reference marks the door jamb.
for when you cut the strike plate you make the cut too deep, use
Mark the strike location. cardboard to raise the plate so it’s
into the door jamb with the chisel.
Hold the strike plate on the door flush. To make room for the latch,
jamb, centering the hole over the use a drill or chisel to bore a hole
pencil mark made for the latch. Also, into the center area of the strike
make sure the plate is flush with the plate. Fasten the strike plate to the
top and bottom marks you made on jamb using screws, checking the
the edge of the door. Trace the loca- alignment again.

SOUNDPROOFING
You can attempt soundproofing 2x4 partition walls, the nonload-bearing
walls that divide the interior of a structure. Although you can’t expect to
make any walls in the house truly soundproof, you can effectively attenu-
ate, or cut down, the transmission of sound through some walls. Walls
separating bedroom and bathroom are prime candidates for sound-
proofing. There are a number of approaches, ranging from the simple
to the complex, depending on how much sound you want to block.
4 Mark the plate’s position on the door
to help align the plate on the jamb. A simple approach to controlling sound involves filling the interior
Pay wall with batts of R-11 unfaced fiberglass insulation or rigid
oam rated at around R-11. The mass of the insulation helps cut down
sound transmission. If you want to make the wall even more sound-
proof, double the drywall on each side of the wall.
Probably the best soundproofing technique involves using 2x6s for the top
and bottom plates and framing the wall with staggered 2x4 studs. Set the
studs at 12 inches on center, so that every other stud is at 24 inches on
center on the same plane. eh this wall arrangement alone is effec-
tive, it’s best to weave unfaced iberglass insulation between the studs
~aE
a
and use double layers of drywall on each side of the wall.
ere

Double Layer
of Drywall
Each Side
re
eae!
ie

1st layer may be

Remove the plate and close the sound-insulating
door. Locate the strike and plate. wallboard.

Double Layer
of Drywall
Each Side Weave insulation
through 2x45.

Ist layer may be |

sound-insulating
2x6
wallboard.
Mark the position of the strike by
tracing the strike plate on the jamb.
 PE R SSPE: 2 TITIES es SRE SELES ITT

Gable-Roof
Framing

oof framing can be intimi-

dating, mainly because you
must calculate the length of the
rafters and the necessary angles
at the ridge and the rafter tails in
order for the roof to come out
right. The process involves some basic arithmetic and
geometry that you may not have used since high school,
so you may be a little rusty when it comes to laying out
the roof. But don’t worry. This chapter shows how to
break down the process into small, manageable seg-
ments. The chapter even provides the necessary math
you will need to do the job right. Once you see the princi-
ples at work in this chapter, you'll be marking and cut-
ting rafters with confidence.
i
[p-P2
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

roofs, you'll notice a right triangle

Roof Loads span table have slopes of less than
4 in 12; for steep roofs, the slopes off to the side that identifies a roof—
Like floor joists, rafters must be se- are 4 in 12 or greater. in this case 4 in 12—with a 12 at the
lected to span distances. A beefier top of the triangle on one leg of
piece of lumber can span greater the right angle and a 4 on the other
distances, so a 2x8 rafter will have Roof Pitch leg. The hypotenuse of the triangle
a longer allowable span than a 2x6 shows you the angle of slope. The
rafter of the same grade. A 2x12 will & Slope higher the number of inches in unit
have a greater allowable span than Pitch. Roof pitch is the angle of a rise, the steeper the roof. An 8-in-12
a 2x10 of the same grade, and so on. roof as a ratio of total rise to span. roof rises 8 inches in elevation for
Unlike floor joists, however, rafters The total rise is the vertical height every foot of run; a 12-in-12 roof,
are set in position at an angle. A of the roof at its ridge measured common in Cape Cod-style houses,
low angle (one closer to level) puts from the top plate of the structure’s rises a foot in elevation for every
more strain on a rafter than a high end walls at the wall’s midpoint; foot of run (a 45-degree angle).
angle (one closer to vertical), so a the span of a gable roof is the dis- Figuring Total Rise. If you know
rafter’s allowable span is affected tance from wall to wall. A 24-foot- the slope of a roof but don’t know
by the roof’s angle, called pitch or wide structure, for example, with the total rise, you can determine
slope. A steep roof has a high an- a gable roof that rises 10 feet in the that dimension using the total run.
gle, while a less inclined roof has middle has a pitch of "44, or 72. A Divide the span in half to get the
a lower angle. pitch of 4 or 4 is common for gable total run. Let’s say your structure
roofs. A Cape Cod-style house has a span of 20 feet. The total run
On-center framing distances also af-
might have a 2 pitch. is 10 feet. Now multiply the unit
fect allowable rafter span. Because
rafters placed 16 inches on center Slope. The more commonly used rise by the number of feet in the
are closer together than those set slope is expressed as the rafter’s total run. An 8-in-12 roof witha
at 24 inches on center, they take on vertical rise in inches, or unit rise, total run of 10 feet means the total
less load and can be a smaller di- per 12 inches of horizontal run, or rise is 80 inches (8 x 10), or 6 feet
mension. You may find that you unit run. If a slope has a unit rise of 8 inches. If you increase the run,
need 210s for a roof with 24-inch- 4 and a unit run of 12, it means the the slope doesn’t change, but the
on-center framing but that you roof surface rises 4 inches for every total rise increases. For example,
can use 2x8s if you frame them at 12 inches along the run line. This di- if you have a 12-foot run with an
16 inches on center. mension is expressed as 4: 12 or 4 in 8-in-12 roof, the total rise is 96 inch-
12. On most design drawings of es (8 x 12), or 8 feet.
Finally, the grade of the lumber af-
fects allowable rafter span. No. 1
Douglas fir will have a greater
span than No. 2 Douglas fir, and
so on. So be sure that you calculate
your rafter spans using the wood
species and grade available to you.
If you change species or grade,
recheck the span table for the rec-
ommended size for the lumber Total Rise

you're buying. (See “Rafter Span

Ratings,” page 27.)

When referring to a span table, make

sure it’s a rafter table and not a joist
table. They are different. On a rafter
table you'll notice that there are two
categories of span. You know that
slope affects the rafter’s capacity
to bear loads, but rather than list
span tables for each different roof
angle, the tables typically break the
slopes down into two categories:
steep-sloped roofs and low-sloped Pitch. Expressed as the ratio of a roof’s total rise to its span, pitch is usually written
roofs. Low-sloped roofs on a rafter as a fraction: % pitch, for example.
 Need Loteh 123
CALCULATING RAFTER LENGTH

Pitch Slope < 12" Unit Run >

24-in-12

18-in-12 Slope of Roof ea

4 15-in-12

12-in12 '

10-in-12

8-in-12

6-in-12
| A-in-12 Rise in
my D-in-12 Inches per ra
Wialic Or Isat

plate. Therefore, the bottom of the

ridge will be lower by 3 inches
(or whatever the length of the
Theoretical plumb cut line is) plus an inch or
Ridge Height
so to account for the flat edge of
a
the ridgeboard. >
wD

Calculating rise and run correctly is =

-
essential for three principal reasons. O
First, rise and run determine where eS)
to position your ridgeboard; sec- 2
ond, a precise calculation will help >
you size rafter stock; third, rise and =
ZE
run are required for determining O
rafter lengths.

Total Run Calculating

Figuring the Total Rise. Total rise is the vertical measurement from the cap plate Rafter Length
to the theoretical ridge height. To find the rise in feet, multiply the run by the unit rise
and divide by 12. You'll use a framing square, pencil,
and calculator to figure and mark
When you frame a roof, it’s impor- distance from the cap plate to the common gable rafters. Because all
tant to know precisely what the rise theoretical ridgeboard height. the common rafters in a simple
defines. When you determine rise, gable roof are identical, the easiest
To determine the inside height of thing to do is to mark one, cut it,
you use a measurement along a
line (the measuring line) from the
the ridgeboard, or the height at the and put it in place. If that first raf-
cap plate’s top outside edge to bottom of the ridgeboard above ter fits perfectly against the ridge-
the ridge’s centerline. The point at the top plate, you must remember board and cap plate, use it as the
which the rafter measuring line that rafters must have a notch to master rafter, or template, for mark-
and the ridgeboard centerline inter- sit securely on the double top plate, ing all the others. To calculate the
sect is known as the theoretical usually with a 3%-inch plumb cut total number of rafters you need,
ridgeboard height. The rise is the on a 2x10 that sits on a 2x6 top do the following:
124
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

: es
= For 16-inch-on-center framing,
multiply the length of the build- qe pee DRAWING 45-DEGREE ANGLES
ing by three-quarters, and add 1 s no Position a framing square at the 12-inch mark along the
(Lx 0.75 +1 =X rafters):
outside edge of its blade and tongue, and you can establish 45-degree
® For 24-inch-on-center framing, lines accurately enough for framing work.
multiply the building length by
one-half and add 1 (Lx 0.5+1=
Y rafters).
Before you order rafter lumber, you
must know what size boards to get.
You can approximate the sizes using
a framing square and measuring AB® Cut ASCs Gis
tape. To determine the exact rafter
lengths, you can use any of three
methods: work with rafter tables;
use the Pythagorean theorem; or
step off the rafters with a square.
First, however, you need to deter-
mine the roof slope and identify the
cuts you'll need to make.

Determining the Roof Slope.

To mark rafters, you need to find
the roof slope indicated on the determines the shape of the tail end blade, represent the total run and
building’s plans. The rafter length of the rafter; and the bird’s-mouth the narrow arm—the tongue—rep-
will be determined by the roof cut, where you notch the rafter to resent the total rise. Using a scale
slope and the width of your build- sit on the cap plate. The tail cut may of 1 inch = 1 foot, measure the dis-
ing, which you'll also find on the be plumb or square (drawing) or tance from blade to tongue to find
plans. The rafter-length measure- a combination. The tail cut also es- the length of the rafter. You'll also
ment will determine where you'll tablishes the outside edge of the raf- have to add in any overhang, which
make the cuts on the rafters. ter, where it forms the eaves and is traditionally measured as a level
may create an overhang. Most over- dimension from the outside edge of
Three Crucial Cuts. There are
hangs are at least 12 inches wide.
three cuts in most rafters: the ridge the cap plate. Add that extra length
cut, where the rafter rests against Estimating with a Square. Let to the blade of the framing square
the ridgeboard; the tail cut, which the wide arm of the square, or the before you do any measuring.

Plumb Tail Cut

Bird’s-Mouth Cut
Almost 14/2'

(Square Tail Cut)

ea 12' ofRun oe

Three Crucial Cuts. Most rafters need a plumb ridge cut, a Estimating with a Square. Use a framing square and
bird’s-mouth cut at the plate, and a plumb and/or square tail cut. measuring tape to estimate the length of a rafter.
 125
CALCULATING RAFTER LENGTH

-
Using a Rafter Table
The rafter table found on a framing
ee LT ae i i HL RL eh fea Says a T T T
square contains work-saving data
1; Se
2'3 alo 21 20 lg 1'8 7 T Ve Te 5 ! 4 I3 A F
Length Common Ratters Per Foot Run 21 63 20 81 1389 13.42 13 12.65 12 Ya 12 4
Length Hip orValley Per Foot Run 2474 2402 18 36 18 W769. 1744 17_ |
and is useful for many essential Difforerice in LengthofJacks 16 Inches Centers
Diflerence in Length of Jacks 2 Feet Centers:
28 TA"
43
27 at
41%
183"
27"
7
26 Ma*
17 Su"
26
16%
25 Via"
16
24 a
=
“inal |
Side Cuts of Jacks Use 6 We 6 ETmETG 10 1 ye 19 ye i “al
framing calculations. You need look 22
‘Side Cuts of Hip or Valley Use

21 20 19 18
B

17
YW 6

16
Ve. 11

6
Ver W

5
Ye" WwW

4
ye 11

3
Ye" ” er

rs)
W

1
=a

i yc Es fal ae ke ea Pl ed snes es pas eal pales pee nm]

only at the first line of the table,
which gives unit rafter length, for
£
common gable rafters. Unit length
is the common rafter length re- Using a Rafter Table. Better framing squares have a rafter table that contains
quired, in inches and decimals, at valuable information for making rafter calculations.
any given slope to gain a foot of
run, or a foot of horizontal distance.
A rafter at a steep 10-in-12 slope,
for instance, has to be longer to
cover a foot of run than a rafter at
a less-inclined 4-in-12 slope.
Extra Rafter
To find the unit length you need, Length Required
look on the blade (which also con-
tains the table) below the inch des-
ignation that corresponds to your
slope. If, for example, you're fram-
ing a 6-in-12 roof, look at the num-
ber below the 6-inch mark on the
framing square’s blade. You'll find Overhang
it reads 13.42. Distance
Building Line
If your total run is 14, multiply
13.42 by 14 to get 187.88 inches. Create an Overhang. An overhang is a level dimension from the edge of a build-
Divide 187.88 by 12 to get 15.656 ing, but you need more rafter length than the overhang width because of the slope.
a)
>
feet, or 15 feet 7’ inches. (See ie)
m
“Decimals of a Foot,” on page 126.) =
O
Create An Overhang. The O
rafter length is the distance from
the ridge to the edge of the build-
2
>
ing. To create an overhang, you =
need to add extra rafter length be- z
O
yond the building line. The over-
hang is a level dimension from the
edge of the building, but the actual
rafter length is longer because of
its slope. If you want an 18-inch, or
1.5 foot, overhang on the 6-in-12
roof, for example, you must multi-
ply 1.5 x 13.42. The result is 20.13.
Divide 20.13 by 12 to get 1.68 feet, (Ne tae Ge NO! <p B25) = oy23) V325' = 18.03' =18'/e"
or 1 foot 8%6 inches. This is the dis-
tance to add along the top edge of Calculating the Length. The total run and total rise represent the base and allti-
tude of a right triangle; the hypotenuse is the common rafter length.
the rafter beyond the building line
to yield a 1-foot 6-inch overhang.
you can use the principles for any = Determine the building width. For
common gable rafter. this example, assume the building
Calculating the Length is 30 feet wide.
= Determine the roof slope. Here, as-
The calculations used here to deter- sume a slope of 8 in 12. Remember, = Determine the run. The run is usu-
mine rafter length are an example that means the roof rises 8 inches for ally one-half the building’s width.
and are not meant for all rafters, but every 12 inches it runs horizontally. In this case, the run is 15 feet.
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

# Determine the rise. Once you You're now ready to figure the raf- altitude (10). You need to figure the
know the slope (8 in 12) and run ter length for an 8-in-12 roof ona hypotenuse of this right triangle,
(15 feet), you know the roof will building 30 feet wide. If you think which represents the rafter length.
rise 10 feet from the top plate to the of half the roof as a right triangle, Using the Pythagorean theorem,
ridge (8 x 15 = 120 inches, or 10 feet). |you already know the base (15) and = A? + B* = C*:

DECIMALS OF A FOOT :

Decimal Inch Decimal Inch Decimal Inch Decimal Inch

0.0000 0 0.2500 3 0.5000 6 0.7500 9
0.0052 “eo 0.2552 3" 0.5052 66 07552 9%
0.0104 Ye 0.2604 3% 0.5104 6% 0.7604 Ve
0.015625 We 0.265625 3%6 0.515625 6/6 0.765625 96
0.0208 V4 0.2708 ay), 0.5208 64 0.7708 V4
0.0260 6 0.2760 SG 0.5260 6%6 0.7760 9/6
0.03125 Ie 0.28125 3% O55125 6% 0.78125 9%,
0.0365 Tie 0.2865 36 0.5365 6/6 0.7865 V6
0.0417 YW 0.2917 3% 0.5417 6p 0.7917 Vy
0.046875 Tees 0.296875 376 0.546875 6716 0.796875 96
0105211 7) C2027 3% 0.5521 6% 0.8021 9%
0.0573 Vie 0.3073 Shs 05573 "Ne 0.8073 9N"e
0.0625 sy 03125 3% 0.5625 6% 0.8125 OV,
0.0677 Wigs O17, Ble 0.5677 6% 0.8177 6
0.0729 7/3 0.3229 3% 0.5729 6% 0.8229 We
0.078125 ie 0.328125 Bie 06781125 6! 0.828125 9!
0.0833 1 0.3333 4 0.5833 7, 0.8333 10
0.0885 Me 0.3385 ANe 0.5885 7 Vie 0.8385 10%.
0.09375 1% 0.34375 AY, 0.59375 7Ve 0.84375 10%
0.0990 1o 0.3490 Ahs 0.5990 Tie 0.8490 10%6
0.1042 WY 0.3542 AMVs 0.6042 74 0.8542 10%
0.109375 eo 07359375 A 6 0.6093 7/6 0.859375 10%6
0.1146 1% 0.3646 A% 0.6146 7% 0.8646 10%
0.1198 We 0.3698 Ah 0.6198 Tie 0.8698 10/6
0.1250 1, 0.3750 AV 0.6250 7/2 0.8750 10%
0.1302 We 0.3802 AV 6 0.6302 Tie 0.8802 10%6
0.1354 1% 0.3854 A% 0.6354 7% 0.8854 10%
0.140625 Ae 0.390625 Ale 0.640625 TAA 0.890625 10'%e
0.1458 1% 0.3958 AV, 0.6458 vie 0.8958 10%
0.1510 I%e 0.4010 A'/e 0.6510 7'he 0.9010 10'%e
0.15625 1% 0.40625 As 0.65625 7/ 0.90625 10%
0.1615 Wee 0.4115 Ae 0.6615 Te 0.9115 10'%e
0.166667 D 0.416667 5 0.666667 8 0.916667 11
0.171875 2M"e 0.421875 5Ne 0.671875 BY 0.921875 11M"6
O1ZAA 2M, 0.4271 5Ve 0.6771 BY, 0.9271 11%
0.1823 26 0.4323 Bihe 0.6823 8/6 0.9323 11%e
0.1875 2, 0.4375 BY, 0.6875 84 0.9375 11%
0.1927 26 0.4427 56 0.6927 B86 0.9427 11%
0.1979 2% 0.4479 5% 0.6979 8% 0.9479 11%
0.203125 Die 0.453125 Ian 0.703125 87/6 0.953125 11/6
0.2083 Vr 0.4583 5Vp 0.7083 8/2 0.9583 11%
Oe 185 276 0.4635 5% 6 O7 138 87%6 0.9635 116
0.21875 2% 0.46875 5% 0.71875 8% 0.96875 11%
0.2240 oie 0.4740 5'\N6 0.7240 BI" 0.9740 11g
0.2292 ou 0.4792 54 0.7292 844 0.9792 11%
0.234375 2 he 0.484375 5\e 0.734375 8! 0.984375 11'%e
0.2396 UE: 0.4896 5% 0.7396 87/5 0.9896 11%
0.2448 2's 0.4948 Ble 0.7448 8! 0.9948 13a
 127
CALCULATING RAFTER LENGTH

102 + 152 = C2 an 8-in-12 slope. Lay the square on tongue of the square. When you
100 feet + 225 feet = 325 feet the left end of the stock. Hold the begin stepping off full units, remem-
square’s tongue in your left hand ber to start from the new plumb line
The square root of 325 feet is
and its blade in your right. Pivot the and not from the ridge cut line.
18.03 feet, which equals 18 feet
square until the edge of the stock
¥% inch. If your rise and/or run are Step off the rafter. Work-
not in whole feet but in feet and
near you aligns with the unit rise
ing with the same 8-in-12 slope
mark (8 inches in this example) on
inches, then convert to inches, do and a run of 12% feet, start to step
the outside of the tongue and the
the math, and convert back to feet. off the rafter from the partial step
12-inch mark on the outside of the
Use the table “Decimals of a Foot” mark. Continue stepping off to your
(left) when you divide the resulting blade. Mark along the outside edge
right by marking where the stock
number of inches by 12 ona calcu-
of the tongue for the ridge plumb
intersects the blade and shifting
line. You'll use this mark as the
lator to arrive at feet. the square until the outside of the
reference line for stepping off full
Calculate the Overhang. You 12-inch units. To make accurate
can also use the Pythagorean theo- marking easier, attach adjustable
rem to figure out the dimension stops called stair nuts or stair but-
you'll have to add to the rafter tons to the square to set the rise
length for the overhang. If you and run positions. (See drawing.)
want an 18-inch overhang on the
same 8-in-12 roof, envision the
If the span is an odd number of feet,
overhang area as a miniature roof. say 25, with a run of 12 feet, you'll
The run is 18 inches (the horizon-
have to include a half-step to ac-
commodate the extra length. Mark
tal dimension of the overhang) and
off the partial step first, then goon
the rise is 12 inches (8 x 1.5 = 12).
to step off full 12-inch units.
Therefore,

122 + 182 = C2 Holding the square in the position in

which you had it to mark the ridge
144 inches + 324 inches = 468 inches
cut, measure and mark the length of
The square root of 468 inches is the odd unit along the blade. Shift
21.63 inches, which is 1.80 feet, the square to your right along the ©
>
or 1 foot 9% inches. edge of the stock until the tongue is Using adjustable stops, set your =
Ww

even with the mark you just made. square’s tongue to the roof unit rise and za
Stepping Off the Length Mark off a plumb line along the the blade to the unit run. Mark the ridge line. O
O
Rather than do any calculations,
you can accurately measure a rafter
a
>
by “stepping off” with a framing z=
The
square in 12-inch units of run. ©)
Lay a straight piece of rafter stock
across two sawhorses. Sight down
the edge of the rafter, and posi-
tion yourself so that you’re on the
crowned side, which will be the
top of the rafter. It’s easier to hold
and work with the framing square
from that position.

Difficulty Level: a,
Tools and Materials
= Framing square with stops
@ Pencil :12"

m Rafter (to serve as a template)

| -_——_——— Building Line

2
Adjust the square. Let's say Step the framing square off to the right, once for each foot on run in the roof.
you want to lay out a roof with Work from the ridge line or the first partial step.
128
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

tongue aligns with that mark. Per-

form this step a total of 12 times.

On the last step, mark a plumb line

along the outside of the tongue.
This plumb line, also called the
building line, marks the outside
of the cap plate.
Step off the overhang. To
measure the overhang, step off
the additional distance in the usual Building Line
way, Starting from the building line.
For an 18-inch overhang, for exam-
Tail Cut Line
ple, make an additional 1% steps. t
i)

If the rafter board is running short

1

<— Overhang —»
and there’s not enough room on ,
1

which you can rest the square while

1

you're doing the marking, turn the 3 Starting from the building line, step off a distance equivalent to the overhang width.
square Over and measure straight
off the building line.
Marking the Rafter Length the line drawn at the ridge. This is
the building line. Add the over-
Subtracting the If you haven't stepped off the hang length you calculated, and
Ridgeboard Thickness rafter, you must still mark it for make a mark.
length. Measure from the original
You have calculated the length of
ridge line, not the cut line you just
the rafter to the center of the ridge-
marked, the total rafter length. Do Marking the Rafter Tails
board. You must therefore short-
not include the overhang. Measure At their tail ends (the ends that over-
en the rafter to accommodate the
along the top, or crowned, edge of hang the walls), you can cut rafters
width of the board. If you haven’t
the rafter. either plumb, ending in a vertical
marked the plumb ridge line ona
rafter, do so as discussed in “Step- Set the framing square at the prop- line parallel with your structure’s
ping Off the Length.” Measure back er slope; position it at the length walls, or square, ending in a line that
from the center of the ridge line a mark; and draw a plumb line like is square with the rafter. Plumb-cut
distance of one-half the thickness
of the ridgeboard. If you’re using
a two-by ridgeboard, the distance
will be “% inch. Mark another plumb
line at this point as the cut line.

Overhang Length

One-half
Ridgeboard
Thickness Adjustable Stops

Building Line

Tongue (Rise)
Ridge Cut Line Blade (Run)

Subtracting the Ridgeboard Marking the Rafter Length. Measure along the crown edge from the original
Thickness. Measure back from the ridge line, and mark the rafter length you determined earlier, not including the over-
ridge line a distance of one-half the hang. Then add the overhang length, and mark the end of the rafter with a plumb or
ridgeboard thickness. a square line.
 129
CALCULATING RAFTER LENGTH

Marking the Rafter Tails. Cut the ends of the rafters plumb or square. Square cuts must be exactly the same length because
the edge of the roof emphasizes any irregularities.

rafters may also have their pointed Making the Bird’s-Mouth, Mark the plumb cut. The
tails nipped off with a line parallel
with the structure’s floor. Plumb-
Ridge, and Tail Cuts amount you notch out along
the plumb cut must not exceed
cut rafters are best for accommo- Once you have the ridge and tail
one-third the depth of the rafter;
dating fascia boards and for creat- cut lines marked, it’s time to mark
otherwise the rafter will lose some
ing screened or sealed-in cornices: the bird’s mouth and make all the
of its span rating. Note, however,
simply make a plumb cut line at cuts. The building line you drew on
that the rafter will actually “sain”
the overhang mark. the rafter already marks the plumb
thickness by being positioned at an
cut of the bird’s mouth. Use that
angle. Although the actual width
re
If you choose to leave the rafters line as a reference to draw the hor-
square, with the ends at an angle of a 2x10 is 9% inches, its working
izontal, or seat, cut line for the
to the building’s walls instead of bird’s mouth.
width in position may be more like
parallel, make a square cut line 11 inches. One third of that width
across the rafter at the overhang is about 3% inches. Mark the allow-
Difficulty Level: Wa BW, able depth on the building line,
mark. Measure off the overhang
dimension, and mark the cut line Tools and Materials measuring from the bottom edge
starting at the bottom edge of the of the rafter.
= Framing square
rafter. Be sure the rafters are all ex- Mark the seat cut. The seat
actly the same length: the roof m Pencil
cut is the horizontal line that
sheathing will create a sight line m Circular saw will rest on the cap plate. It should be
that will make obvious any rafters m Handsaw as wide as the cap plate. So if you are ONIWV
JOOU-
that are too short or too long, even framing your walls with 2x6s, the
by a small amount. m Rafter (to serve as the template)
seat cut should be 5 inches. Align

Building Line

One-Third Rafter
Depth, Maximum

Seat
Cut Line
Measure
from here.

Width of
Tail Cut Line Cap Plate

SS
El
Measure up from the bottom one+hird
the rafter width, and make a mark. 2 Align the framing square with the building line, and make the seat cut line as
shown.
130
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

the framing square with the build- erect the roof frame. If you’re not
ing line, and move it up or down installing a floor in the attic space
until the dimension from the build- below the roof, you'll have to install
ing line to the rafter edge equals the a temporary floor while you work.
wall-stud width. Draw a line, which
should be at or below the mark you Erecting the Roof
made in Step 1.
Make the saw cuts. Using a Difficulty Level: WV
circular saw, make the rafter’s
ridge and tail cuts. Make the initial Tools and Materials
bird’s-mouth cuts with a circular m Basic carpentry tools
saw, but finish them with a hand-
mw Ridgeboard
saw, as a circular saw will overcut
and eat too far into the body of the w Rafters
rafter. The rafter is now ready for = Two-by lumber for supports and
you to put it in place against the braces
ridgeboard when it’s erected. If the w 10d nails
Make the ridge and tail cuts; then cuts all line up, use this rafter as a
make the bird’s-mouth cuts, finish- guide to cut the remaining rafters. w 16d nails
ing with a handsaw.
Set the ceiling joists. In stick
construction you place the ceil-
ane fo PROPERLY | Installing ing joists and rafters parallel at the
Kno BEARING
RAFTERS
|
|
Ridgeboards plate and face-nail them together
with three or more 10d nails. Attach
& Rafters the ceiling joists prior to installing
Roof sag can be one result of a the rafters, and cut the ends of the
Once you’ve measured, marked,
rafter that improperly bears on a joists to fit the slope of the rafters at
and cut the sample rafter, you're
top plate. If the toe of the rafter the plate. To cut the joists properly,
ready to start framing the roof. The
(with no overhang) rests on the measure the height of a rafter as it
most likely scenario is that you'll
top plate, for example, the rafter would sit on the top plate at the end
install a ridgeboard and rafters
may split, causing the sag. But
over a one- or two-story structure of the bird’s mouth and along the
if the heel rests on the top plate, plumb line. Transfer this measure-
with a ceiling just below the roof.
the rafter is far more stable.
The ceiling joists act as rafter ties; ment to the end of the ceiling joist.
you must install them before you Align the framing square with the

Cut Joists

Cut Line to
it Rafters

ee
4.

See
a
S
Jpn
a

| Align the square on the joists according to the slope as shown, and cut the joists.
 131
INSTALLING RIDGEBOARDS & RAFTERS

top edge of the ceiling joist, with the

tongue showing the unit rise and ee 45° Saw Cut

the blade showing the unit run.

Slide the square until the blade in-
tersects the rafter-height mark; then
pencil a mark along the blade. Cut
the joist along the mark, and then 2 10d Nails Perpen-
dicular to Saw Cut
toenail the joist to the cap plate with
three 16d nails. Place rafter here.

To provide a place to work and a

temporary support for ridgeboard
bracing, tack three rows of sheathing
2 Use a scarf joint to join two or more pieces of lumber when making a long
tridgeboard. The ridgeboard splice should break on a rafter.

panels perpendicular to and down

the middle of the ceiling joists.
Splice the ridgeboard. The
ridgeboard may be a straight
one-by or two-by. Sight the board
and make sure the crown, if any,
faces up. Use a width that will al-
low full contact with the plumb
cut of the rafter. Fit the ridgeboard
to the length of the building plus
the gable overhang at each end.
You may have to join two boards.
eee
Use a scarf joint, which you make SSS ee |a eae ARE =e = =e 2

using a 45-degree angle cut into 3 Mark the rafter locations on the ridgeboard. For 16-in.-on-center spacing, set
each piece. Carefully position this each rafter so it’s adjacent to a ceiling joist.
joint so that a rafter lands right on
it, giving it extra strength. Add a
temporary scab board onto the joint
to support it during the ridge-rais-
Dimension Equal to Height
ing operation. of Flumb Line from Bird’s-
Mouth Seat Cut
3 Mark the ridgeboard. Lay
the ridgeboard perpendicular
| Depth of
to and across the ceiling joists, cen- Measuring Line Ridgeboard
tered in the structure. Allow for the
8s
ONIW
JOON-
gable-end overhang. Mark an R
for rafter placement using the joists
Flumb Line Height of Temporary
as guides. Position the rafters so Ridge Support
that they’re flush with the ceiling
joists and can be face-nailed.
Determine the ridgeboard
height. The height of the ridge- Bird’s-Mouth Temporary
board is crucial because you've Seat Cut Sheathing Panel
precisely cut the master rafter to sit
a certain distance above the top
plates. Calculate the dimension
as follows:
4 To get the ridgeboard height, add the rise and the rafter plumb-line height; then
subtract the sheathing thickness and the joist and ridgeboard depth.

(Total rise) + (Height of plumb line Raise the ridgeboard. Set With the ridgeboard positioned,
from the bird’s-mouth seat cut to the ridgeboard in place using set the master rafter in place to see
the top of the rafter) - (Depth of vertical two-by braces nailed onto its whether all the cuts you made fit
ceiling joist) - (Thickness of tem- side. Attach diagonal braces to the snugly. If they do, mark and cut the
porary sheathing panels) - (Depth vertical two-by braces, and nail them rest of the rafters, using the master
of ridgeboard) to cleats on the temporary decking. as your guide. If the cuts are off, ad-
132
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

just them; cut a new master rafter; ing joists lap a bearing wall, the raf- ties to secure the rafters. If the plans
and try it in place before cutting the ters will be offset by 1/4 inches, and call for collar ties, install them after
remaining rafters. you'll be able to face-nail straight you've installed the rafters.
through the ridgeboard into both Install sway braces. Once
& Install the rafters. Position
the rafters in place in pairs. rafters. Toenail the rafters to the you've installed all the rafters,
Face-nail the first rafter with three wall plate with three 16d nails, and remove the temporary supports
16d nails at the ridgeboard, and face-nail them to the ceiling joists and sheathing if you’re not putting
then face-nail the matching rafter at with a minimum of three 10d nails. down a subfloor. Nail a 6- to 8-foot
an angle. (See drawing.) If the ceil- You can also use metal hurricane 2x6 down the middle of the ceiling

Temporary Scab to Cover Joint

5
Rafters Omitted for Clarity
~x— Gable End
Rafters i

ooo
h

Diagonal
Sway Brace

Ceiling Joists

6 Nail the rafters to the ridgeboard using 16d nails as shown, and then attach the Brace the ridgeboard with vertical
rafters at the wall plates. and diagonal sway braces.
 133
INSTALLING RIDGEBOARDS & RAFTERS

joists at each gable end. Brace the

ridgeboard near each end, 12 inch- EASY TOENAILING
es from the building’s edge, with
a 2x4 upright and a 2x4 diagonal Sometimes you have to toenail, and when you do, a stud
cut at 45-degree angles to prevent may shift off the layout lines as you drive the nails. Hold the studs in place
roof sway. __ with a temporary spacer block cut to fit your stud spacing. Make sure the
| nails don’t hit the block, and remove it when you've finished nailing.
Framing the Gable-End
Overhang
Temporary Spacer Block
The gable end of a roof needs an
overhang that matches the eaves
overhang. An overhang not only
looks good but also keeps water
away from the structure. Framing
an overhang is relatively simple,
but you must plan in advance.

Difficulty Level: Wa,

each side of the center mark and studs to fit between the top plate
Tools and Materials mark for the first full studs. Contin- and the end rafters, using the com-
m Basic carpentry tools ue to mark along the cap plate at mon difference you determined ear-
your established stud spacing. Set a lier. Toenail the studs to the cap
m Four extra common rafters (two stud at a full stud position, plumb plate; then toenail and face-nail
for each end of the roof) through the rafters into the notches
it, and mark where it intersects the
m 2x6s for the outriggers end rafter. Set the stud at the next using 16d nails.
w 1éd nails stud position and mark it again.
The difference in height is the com-
Notch the end rafters. On 6
each end rafter, notch out for a
Frame the gable end. After mon difference between studs. minimum of three outriggers. Out-
you've framed the roof with Cut notches (corresponding to raf- riggers are 2x6s that you face-nail
common rafters, use a plumb bob to ter height) 5 to 6 inches long and into the crown edge of the end rafter
find the center of the gable-end cap 14 inches deep into the tops of sev- and end-nail into the last common
plate directly under the ridgeboard. eral studs, using a sliding T-bevel to rafter. Set your circular saw to cut
If you'll be installing a gable-end transfer the proper rafter angle for 1% inches deep; make two marks
vent, measure one-half its width to the bottom of the notches. Cut the 5 inches apart where you'll place

5" to 6"
ONIWV
JOONA

Common Difference
in Height

1 Notch wall studs to size and set them in the gable end, toenailing and face-nailing to secure them.
134
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

Trusses
If you’re nervous about cutting
rafters from scratch and you don’t
mind losing the open attic space,
roof trusses are a roof-framing op-
tion. Roof trusses are difficult to
install, but you can order them in
custom sizes and configurations.
Trusses are nothing more than 2x4
webs and 2x4 or 2x6 chords held
together by gussets, which are flat
metal or plywood plates. The two
top chords and one long bottom
chord form the shape of a gable
roof. Webs tie the chords togeth-
er. Cutting any one of the mem-
bers compromises the structural
integrity of the entire truss. Resi-
dential roof trusses commonly
Sheathing and Joists Removed for Clarity Sheathing and Joists Removed for Clarity
come in two forms, the W-type
Cut notches in the end rafters 1% x Cut each outrigger; nail it in place; and Howe truss. End trusses often
5% in. for 2x6 outriggers. and attach barge rafters. don’t have the same web configu-
ration as the trusses for the interi-
each outrigger; and cut several rafters and butting one end against
or of the roof. Instead, the “webs”
kerfs between the marks. Plow out the last common rafter. Fasten the
are vertical two-by studs installed
the cut areas with a chisel to com- outriggers by face-nailing two 16d
at 16 or 24 inches on center.
plete the notches. nails at the notches and end-nailing
two 16d nails at the last common You erect trusses right on the top
Cut and install the outrig- rafter. The barge rafters are really plates, with one truss per stud
gers and barge rafters. common rafters without bird’s bay. If you’ve framed the walls at
Measure and cut each outrigger to mouths. Face-nail the barge rafters 24 inches on center, the trusses will
fit the width of the overhang plus to the outriggers using 16d nails; occur every 24 inches as well. Order
the distance from the building line fasten them to the ridgeboard, also trusses from a truss manufacturer
to the last common rafter. Install with 16d nails; and secure them at by specifying the desired length of
each outrigger by fitting it into one their tail ends with fascia boards the bottom chord, which should be
of the notches you cut in the end and 10d finishing nails. as long as the structure’s span. You

W-Type Truss Upper Chora

Lower Chord

fo xy

Building Width
Trusses. In a standard truss, chords define a triangle; webs brace the chords; and scabs, gussets, and splices hold the truss together.
 135
TRUSSES

2x2 Backer Board

Top Chord of
Gable-End
Roof Truss

may not have much control over

ridge height. 2x2 Backer
Board
The drawback to trusses is that
they cut off attic storage space and
deny you the opportunity to build
second-story dormers or finish off
an attic room. You'll find trusses
most commonly used for storage
buildings and garages.
The easiest way to erect trusses
is with a crane, a potentially haz- |ONIW
JOON-
ardous job as the trusses hang from
a single sling attached to the apex
of the truss triangle.

Erecting Trusses
2 Set the remaining trusses in place, and install spacer blocks between them at
Difficulty Level: WWW, the plates.

Tools and Materials crane, and position it at the gable to keep the base chord of the truss
end of the roof on the cap plate. from moving out of position, and
m Basic carpentry tools Fasten the truss using toenailed 16d nail the truss to the 2x2 backer.
m Crane and hoisting sling nails or metal anchor brackets.
Using 2x4s attached to stakes as di- Set the remaining trusses.
m Two-by braces 6 to 10 ft. long Position the remaining trusses,
agonal braces, plumb the truss with
m 2x2 backers a level, and nail it off to the braces. installing spacer blocks between the
mw 12d and 16d common nails Leave the 24 braces in place until trusses at the plates as you proceed.
you've installed and braced all the For 24-inch-on-center spacing, use
Position the first truss. trusses and nailed down the roof 2x4 or 2x6 blocks 22 inches long.
Have the first truss lifted by sheathing. Install a 2x2 backer board Install same-length blocks between
136
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

x
3 Attach two-by lateral braces, each connecting three trusses, and diagonal braces underneath.

the trusses at the peak to form the pros is Stet les ee | al

ridgeboard and ensure proper spac- | We ow MISSING CONNECTORS
ing at the top. You can set the spacer AA)
blocks at the plate vertically, flush
Connectors are a good idea when attaching joists to rim
with the outside edge of the plate,
joists, or in any other load-bearing area of the framing. Without connec-
or as a frieze block, set square with
tors, the only thing holding the joists in place is the end nails, and under
the truss and extending out from
stress, joists can pull away from rim joists, compromising their ability to
the top plate. Spacer blocks with carry loads.
vents are available from truss man-
ufacturers. Install blocks with two
12d nails at each truss, face-nailing
through the truss.
Install the braces. With
three trusses installed, tack a
24 brace across the top on each
side. Tack braces on additional
trusses as you set them in position,
midway and then near the bottom of
the span. Also, for lengths of 20 feet
or more, run a 1x4 diagonal brace at
about a 45-degree angle from the
cap plate to the peak on each side.
Nail the diagonal to the underside of Gap between Joist
the truss top chord. You can leave and Rim Joist
the diagonal braces in place for
greater stability of the roof.
 SKYLIGHTS

Skylights to create a skylight shaft to bring

light into the living area.
above the ceiling opening. Double
the entire rafter, from plate to ridge,
Installing a skylight in a roof is on each side of the skylight’s rough
a good way to bring light to a win-
dowless bathroom or to a large
Framing for a Skylight opening. Make a double header
above and below to define the open-
open space like a master bedroom ing within the rafter bays, and install
suite. There’s no secret to framing Difficulty Level: Wa,
trimmers to adjust the space between
for a skylight. The trick is to pre- Tools and Materials rafters. Use framing connectors or
vent leaks when you do the finish 16d nails for all the connections.
work by flashing the skylight and m Basic carpentry tools
applying shingles properly. Here’s m Two-by rafter lumber that matches Build the shaft. Use parti-
how to frame the skylight rough the dimensions of the rafters tion-wall-framing principles to
opening within the rafter bays. create a skylight shaft. Build a stud
@ Two-by joist lumber wall between the floor joists and the
If you install a skylight in a roof
above an attic, it may be necessary underside of the rafters using 24s.
] Frame the ceiling opening.
Measure the angles with a sliding
First determine the correct
T-bevel, and cut the angles accu-
rough opening by referring to the
rately. Install the studs as shown in
skylight manufacturer’s literature,
the drawing, perpendicular to the
and then decide where in the room
headers and parallel with the joists
the skylight should go. Create an
and rafters. Toenail the studs with
opening by doubling up the nearest
10d or 12d nails. When you do the
Headers ceiling joists on each side of the sky-
finish work, you'll insulate the shaft
light. Install a double header on
walls and apply drywall to them.
each end, perpendicular to the ceil-
A more careful approach is first to
ing joists. Use framing connectors or
sheathe the walls with plywood to
16d nails for all the connections. If
create a more stable shaft and mini-
the opening between the joists is
mize cracking of the drywall joints.
too wide, use trimmers to narrow it.
Once you sheathe the roof, but be-
Frame the roof opening. fore you attach the roofing shingles, @)
>
1 Determine the correct width, and in- Use a plumb bob or level to install the skylight according to the
=
Ww

stall double headers and trimmers. define the rough roof opening manufacturer’s instructions.
a
O
O
ait

=
>
=
Fle
@)

2 Header off the roof opening in a manner similar to that Connect the roof and ceiling openings with studs to form
used for the ceiling opening. a shaft. Use a sliding T-bevel to mark the shaft studs.
138
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

rows so the ends fall on different

Roof Sheathing Difficulty Level: WB,
framing members. The sketch will
Roof sheathing comes after all Tools and Materials reveal the number of panels re-
the rafters are in place. Sheathing = Basic carpentry tools quired over open soffits; use the
stabilizes the roof and provides a appropriate grade panels previ-
nailing surface for the roofing mate-
@ Plywood sheathing ously mentioned over these areas.
rial. Roof sheathing can be % inch m 8d nails or powered stapler
yJ Install the panels. Begin
(only for 16-inch on-center rafters) m Panel clips (for 24-in.-on-center panel installation at a bottom
or 2 inch thick (for 16- or 24-inch- framing) corner of the roof, placing the long
on-center rafters). There’s not much
m Drip edge side perpendicular to the rafters
cost difference. Plywood is the
w 15 |b. asphaltimpregnated and positioning the end joint over
choice sheathing material, but your
roofing felt the center of a rafter. Use H panel
building code may allow less expen-
clips on panels installed on 24-inch-
sive nonveneer sheathing materials = “-in roofing nails on-center rafters. Locate clips mid-
like oriented-strand board (OSB).
point between the rafters. Make the
Whether you use plywood or OSB, Make the sheathing lay-
panel edges flush with rafter ends
be sure the panels are APA-rated out. Draw a scaled sheathing
and the edge of fascia rafters. Leave
Exposure 1 where you'll enclose layout for the entire roof on paper,
a 4-inch space between panels for
the soffit. For open soffits, use pan- showing panel sizes, placement,
expansion.
els marked Exterior or Exposure 1 and number of panels; graph pa-
of the appropriate grade to permit per is easiest to use. Plan any panel Fasten each panel using 8d com-
painting or staining. Be sure to stag- cutting on one side so you can use mon, spiral-threaded, or ring-shank
ger the sheathing-panel joints so the cut-off portions on the opposite nails. Space nails 6 inches apart
the seams don’t line up. side. You can start at the eaves with along panel ends and 12 inches at
a full 4-foot-wide panel, provided intermediate supports. If you use a
Sheathing the Roof you don’t end up at the top having powered staple gun, use 12-inch
to use a strip less than 16 inches staples for '-inch plywood. Drive
Prolonged exposure to the weather wide. A narrow strip may be too the staples 4 inches apart along the
can damage the framing, so water- weak to support a person or pro- edges and 8 inches in the interior
proof the structure as soon as pos- vide a solid backing for the roofing. of the sheathing. Start the second
sible. Use caution: the greater the Trim the panels of the first row to course with a half (4 x 4-foot) panel.
roof slope, the more hazardous the adjust the width of the last row. Stagger the panels by at least one
job. On steep roofs, nail down 2x4 Stagger the panels in succeeding rafter as you go up the roof.
cleats for footing support as you
work up the roof.
Yo" Gap

24"1| 24" 24" | 24" |}24"

fa
ut
on
H Panel Clip

ae
+ |t

laa
|

| ie

Half Sheet Full Sheet Graph Paper

Gable End Start here.
Plan for sheathing installation by
drawing a scaled layout of panel Start from a bottom corner of the roof, and use panel clips where rafters are
placement. placed 24 in. on center.
 139
ROOF SHEATHING

INSTALLING FLASHING

Install flashing where the roof of an ney, skylight, or wall. For chimneys, For a shed roof against a vertical
attached structure joins the house, a second metal flashing, called cap wall, you'll lay shingles up the roof
around chimneys, around skylights, flashing, is set about 1% inches into until you have to trim a course to
and in valleys. All metal flan the mortar joints of the chimney and fit the base of the vertical wall. The
| must be at least 26-gauge (0.019- bent over to cover the step flashing. last, trimmed, course must be at
inch, or 0.48mm) corrosion-resistant Then you install a rooflike cricket on least 8 inches wide, so it may be
coil stock (preferably aluminum or the up-roof side (drawing), and cover necessary to adjust the exposure of
copper). For chimneys, skylights, it with roll roofing, overlapping the preceding courses to achieve this
and garages where a gable roof shingles by 4 to 5 inches. dimension. Check your spacing well
butts a vertical side wall, you'll before you come to these last cours-
weave metal step flashing with the When you use step flashing on an
attached gable roof, begin installa- es so that you can make adjustments.
roof shingles.
tion at the base of the roof by placing Install a continuous piece of 26-gauge
For chimneys, you start with an apron a section over the end of the roofing metal flashing over the last shingle
flashing. Cut the flashing as shown in starter strip. Position the flashing so course. Fold the flashing strip so that
_ the drawing, install it over the shin- that you'll cover it with the tab of the it will extend a minimum 5 inches up
gles; then continue with the step flash- end shingle in the first course of shin- the wall and 4 inches onto the last
ing. Install a section of flashing, then gles. Secure the vertical arm of the course of shingles. Embed the flash-
a shingle, and so on. You finish with flashing using one nail. ing strip in asphalt plastic roof ce-
_ another apron on the up-roof side, ment, and nail it to the wall. There’s no
_ which goes under the shingles. Step Apply the first course of roofing shin-
need to nail the flashing to the roof.
flashing pieces are rectangular, usu- gles. Then place the second piece of
flashing over the end shingle in the Apply a row of shingle tabs over the
ally 10 inches long and 2 inches
first course of roofing shingles. Posi- metal flashing strip, trimmed to the
wider than the exposed face of the
tion the flashing shingle 5 inches up width of the strip and embedded in
_ roofing shingles. Roofing shingles
roof cement.
_ with a 5-inch exposure, for exam- from the butt so that you'll complete-
ple, require 10x7-inch step flashing. ly cover it with the tab of the end Bring the siding down over the
Fold the 10-inch length in half so shingle in the second course. Apply flashing at the wall as cap flashing.
that it can extend 5 inches onto the the second course of roofing shin- Leave space between the siding and
roof deck and 5 inches up the chim- gles, flash the end, and so on. the roof to allow for painting.
a)
Cut to Slope >
DO
of Roof
rs
~
O
Cap Flashing
o
~
>
=
Pas
0

Embed flashing
_ in roof cement.

Ye rves flashing Shingle Tabs Embedded

; in roof cement. in Roof Cement

5" Min.

Roof Cement
beneath
Flashing
140
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

3 Install the drip edge. The hammer tacker or powered staple. Asphalt shingles have an asphalt-
drip edge, or drip cap, is a In general, roof slope dictates the saturated organic base. Fiberglass
molded metal strip that fits the method of felt installation: in tem- shingles are essentially the same
edges of the entire roof, both eaves perate climates, apply one layer except that glass fiber replaces the
and rakes, to divert water runoff. of 15-pound felt on roofs having a organic base. You can buy shingles
The edge comes in 10-foot lengths. 4-in-12 slope or greater. Lap the felt rated to last anywhere from 20 to
Install the drip edge with “-inch 2 inches horizontally and 6 inches 50 years.
roofing nails along the eaves be- vertically to shed water. Overlap
While roofers often have their own
fore applying roofing felt. Later, the ridge by at least 6 inches.
methods of applying strip shingles,
apply the felt so that it overlaps On roofs having less than a 4-in- this discussion will cover the 6-inch,
the edge. At the rake ends, install 12 slope, start with a 19-inch-wide 5-inch, and 4-inch trim methods
the drip edge over the felt. sheet at the eaves. Lay a 36-inch- with a 5-inch exposure. If you’re in-
Lay the roofing felt. Use wide sheet over the first, and then stalling architectural-type shingles,
asphalt-impregnated roofing lap each subsequent sheet 19 inch- the same general principles apply,
felt as an underlayment under as- es horizontally and at least 12 inch- but follow the manufacturer’s in-
phalt shingles. Attach the felt with es vertically. This layout, in effect, structions carefully to achieve the
corrosion-resistant roofing nails provides a double layer of felt. proper look.
long enough to penetrate sheath-
ing or with /-inch staples using a Installing Shingles Difficulty Level: Wa,
You can buy shingles in convention- Tools and Materials
al three-tab strip styles and in archi-
tectural styles, which mimic the look m Basic carpentry tools
of slate or wood shakes. Three-tab = Shingles
strip shingles are available in a self- w Flashing
sealing asphalt and fiberglass base.
The shingle size most commonly mw 1 Yin. roofing nails (2% lbs.
used is 36 inches wide and 12 inch-
per square) or staples
es long, installed with 5 inches ex-
Apply the starter strip. The
posed to the weather. Approximate
starter strip can be a row of shin-
weight per square, or 100 square
gles trimmed to the manufacturer’s
feet, is 215 pounds, with—in most
specifications, a strip of mineral-sur-
Attach metal drip edge along the eave cases—shingles packaged in three
face roll roofing at least 7 inches
and rake ends using roofing nails. separate bundles to the square.
———— wide, or a course of shingles turned
so that the tabs face up the roof. The
6" Overlap starter strip protects the roof by cov-
ering the spaces under the cutouts
and the joints of the first course of
shingles. Extend the strip beyond
the drip edge at the rake ends and
the eaves by 4 to % inch.
If you use trimmed or upside-
down shingles, cut 6 inches from
the end of the first shingle in the
starter strip to ensure that the cut-
outs of the first course won't fall
over the starter strip joints. Nail
along a line parallel to the eaves
and about 4 inches above it. Place
nails so they don’t show under the
cutouts of the first course.
You might use 36-inch-wide roll
roofing as a starter strip to protect
4 Nail or staple down the roofing felt, overlapping the edges. against ice damming in a cold cli-
mate. If so, nail the roll roofing along
 141
ROOF SHEATHING

Shingles Laid Upside Down

1 Align a starter strip of shingles at the bottom of the roof, overhanging it by about ¥% in. Trim the shingles or set them upside down.

ads
ONIW
IAIGVO
JOON

Avoid Narrow Strips

at End of Roof

5" Exposure

te
2 Start the first course with a full shingle, and then trim the other courses according to the method you choose. Follow chalk
lines snapped parallel to the eaves every few courses.

a line 4 inches above the eaves, with the edge of the roof and snapping off the first shingle to conform to the
nails spaced 12 inches apart. chalk lines to guide every few cours- method of installation selected.
es will help you keep the shingles
Lay the courses. Keep the aligned. Begin the first course with a Depending on the length of your
cutouts in a straight line as you full-length shingle. On most of the roof and how the shingles fit it,
work up the roof. Measuring from remaining courses you'll trim a little you'll use the 6-inch, 5-inch, or
142
GABLE-ROOF FRAMING

4-inch method, named for the NAILING TIPS

amount removed from the first
shingle in each course. By remov- = Use the recommended size and grade of fasteners, such as corrosion-
ing part of the first shingle in each resistant 12-gauge nails with a 7-inch head or approved staples.
row, the cutouts in that course will = Use four fasteners—one 1 inch from each end and one centered over
not line up with the course below. each of the two cutouts.
Choose the installation method ® Align shingles so you cover all nails or staples with the course above.
that leaves you with the widest When you lay shingles with a 5-inch exposure, place the nails on a line
shingle strip at the finish end. With Ys inch above the top of the cutouts.
the 6-inch method, also called the ® Drive the nails straight, not at an angle. Do not break the shingle sur-
centered alignment method, begin face with the fastener head.
the second through sixth courses
= Don’t drive fasteners into cracks in the roof sheathing. |
with a shingle from which you've
removed a multiple of 6 inches. It = Don’t nail into or above the sealing adhesive. Align each shingle cor-
works this way: the second course rectly and keep nails at least 2 inches from the cutouts and the end joints |
starts with a shingle that has 6 inch- of the underlying course. Start nailing from the end nearest the last shin-
es removed; the third with 12 inch- gle laid, and continue across the shingle. This prevents buckling. Do not
es, the fourth with 18 inches, the attempt to realign the shingle by shifting the free end after more than one
fifth with 24 inches, and the sixth nail is in place.
with 30 inches. The adjacent shin- |
ag
gle in each course is full-width.
Begin the seventh course with
a full-width shingle, and repeat
the pattern.
SS
1
The 5-inch method works the same | EES Gee Gap Gu» ae
way, except that each of the second
through sixth courses starts with |
|
1
|

a shingle from which you've re-

| \
| |
|

moved a multiple of 5 inches. The | |

seventh course would normally |

start with a 1-inch-wide piece, 4 12 > ~«

which is too small, so start with
a full shingle. The 4-inch method up with a neater job. Apply shin-
and so on up the roof. To ensure a
follows the same procedure, ex- gles with a 5-inch exposure. Start
professional job, follow the manu-
cept that the trim-off is a multiple at the ridge end that’s opposite the
facturer’s instructions.
of 4 inches. prevailing wind direction. Drive
Some roofers use a method differ- Cap the ridge. Begin by cut- one nail on each side at a point
ent from those described above, ting full shingles or pieces of about 5% inches from the exposed
starting with a shingle cut in half, scrap shingles as shown. Make end of the shingle and 1 inch up
a full shingle on the second course, sure the tapered ends are narrower from the edge. You may need
a half shingle on the third course, than the exposed portions to end longer nails for the cap shingles.

le l

3 Make tapered cuts in the shingles for the ridge cap, and install them with a 5-in. exposure, nailed as shown.
 Shed, Hip &
ELBE SS TRL EN
SBE ELSE
SITE ET ED TLIO ELIE LESISA GEES EI ISG ENE SRE SSE ARES OE EE

Gambrel Roofs

hile gable roofs may be the

most popular type of roof-
ing design used on residential
buildings, there are other types of
roofs that are specified often, in-
cluding shed, hip, and gambrel
roofs. The kind of roof you use
will depend on your architectural
taste, the climate in which you
live, and the building’s function.
Shed roofs, also called lean-to
roofs, are often used on animal
barns and wood sheds. These
roofs are easy to build and require
minimal carpentry skills, but in
heated, insulated structures they
may be hard to vent. Hip roofs offer an appealing design,
but they are difficult to frame. Gambrel roofs are also at-
tractive, their distinctive shape being reminiscent of
English country houses, and they are practical because
their rafter configuration provides extra second-floor space.
Because of their practicality, gambrel roofs are often used
on barns. Each roof type requires a different style of cutting
and assembling rafters. This chapter will cover the framing
requirements for each type.
144
SHED, HIP & GAMBREL ROOFS

Framing
Shed Roofs
Shed roofs, popular on porches,
dormers, vacation homes, and
smaller utility buildings, tend
to have shallow slopes. A shed
roof is essentially one-half a gable
roof. Both ends of the roof rest on
top plates, except on porches and
dormers, so marking and cutting
shed-roof rafters is simple. Your
blueprints will give you the correct
wall heights to which you should
Shed Roof
build for a shed-roof structure.

Marking Shed Rafters

1 Determine the rafter
length. Your blueprints will
likely specify the dimension rafter
lumber to use. If not, use a span
table to choose the lumber. (See
“Rafter Span Ratings,” page oe)
Next, you'll need to determine the
rafter length. First obtain the roof
slope and the run from your plans;
then determine the rise. Note that,
unlike a gable roof, the run is the
total span of the building minus
one wall thickness. Estimate the
length stock you'll need, and then
use the rise and run of your build-
ing and the Pythagorean theorem
to determine rafter length, or use
a framing square. (See “Rafter
Length Measurement,” page 123.)

Lay out the rafters. Sight

each rafter, and make sure the
crown edge is up. Starting at the
higher end of the rafter, use the fram-
ing square to mark the building line.
For a 3-in-12 roof, make the mark by
setting the framing square at 3 inches
along the tongue and 12 inches
along the blade. When the rafter is in
position, this line will be plumb and
will determine the outside edge of
the top plate. Subtract from this the
width of the wall plate, and draw
Gambrel Roof another plumb line. The second line
will indicate the inside edge of the
front wall. Measure the rafter length
Shed, Hip & Gambrel Roofs. Three alternative roof types include shed, hip, and from the first building line you drew,
gambrel. Cutting rafters for each type of roof applies the same principles of span and and make a mark along the crown
slope but different principles of rafter design. edge to establish the inside edge of
 _ 145
FRAMING SHED ROOFS

the back wall. Add the width of the

wall plate; position the framing
square at 3 and 12 at this mark; and
draw another building line here.
| Run of With the rafter in position, this line |
will be plumb and will mark the out- Ee
side edge of the back wall.

Calculate the overhangs.

Run of
Now it’s time to add over-
Overhang hangs to each of your building lines.
The unit length on a rafter table of
Total Span
a 3-in-12 roof is 12.3. (See “Using a
Total Run Rafter Table,” page 125.) So if you
want an 18-inch (1/-foot) over-
hang on each end, multiply 12.3 by
1.5, and you get 18.45 inches, or
1 Obtain the slope and run from your plans, figure out the rise, and then deter- 18'/ inches. At each end of the
mine the rafter length you'll need. rafter, measure along the lower
edge 18% inches. Make a mark and, “GIHS
8dIH
1FYGWV
SIOOY
with your framing square set at 3
and 12, use the mark to draw either
a plumb line (if you're installing a
fascia) or a square line (if you want
the rafter to end square). This will
give you an overhang of 18 inches.
Note that on a low-sloped roof the
desired overhang width is near
equal to the overhang run (a differ-
ence of / inch in this case).

Installing
Shed-Roof Rafters

Difficulty level: WB,

/ Tools and Materials
y] Align the framing square for a 3-in-12 slope, and draw the building reference
lines, top and bottom. = Basic carpentry tools
m Framing square
Plumb Cut
w Rafter stock
Square Cut
Square Cut Overhang Run Shed rafters, like common gable
rafters, need a bird’s mouth notched
Plumb Cut
into them wherever the rafters will
Overhang Run
sit on the cap plates. Shed roofs are a
Overhang little tricky, however, because both
Width
ends of the rafters sit on cap plates.
Remember that the upper building
line (the first line you drew) marks
the outside of the building, but
you'll need to cut the bird’s mouth
Overhang
Width ona plumb line that marks the in-
side of this wall. So be sure to draw
the upper bird’s mouth using the
Add the overhangs to the outside building lines, and cut the rafters plumb or line you drew after you measured
square, according to your design. back the width of the wall plate.
46
SHED, HIP & GAMBREL ROOFS

Cap Plate Width

Outside
Building Line

No More Than One-Third

Rafter Depth

Mark the bird’s mouths.

The seat cut, or the horizontal
cut that allows the rafter to sit on
the cap plate, should match the
width of the plate. If you’re framing
the walls with 24s, the seat cut
should be 3/4 inches wide. Using
the framing square, line up the
blade with the building line and
move the square up or down until
the 34-inch mark on the tongue in-
tersects the underside edge of the
rafter. Draw the 3/4-inch-long seat-
cut line. The plumb-cut line runs
from where the seat-cut line inter-
sects the building line (inside line
for the top of the rafter and outside
line for the bottom of the rafter)
down to the rafter edge. The depth
of the plumb cut should not exceed
one-third the width of the rafter.
Let’s say you are framing with
2x8 rafters. The 2«8’s actual width
is 7'/4 inches, and when it is tilted 2? Put the rafters in place over the studs, and toenail them to the cap plates using
up at a 3-in-12 slope, it has an ap- 16d nails.
parent width of about 8 inches.
So the bird’s-mouth depth of cut the roof (similar to gable-end over- skills. Ideally you'll have framed a
should be no more than about hangs) to match the overhang at the gable roof and thoroughly under-
24 inches. Start the cuts with a top and bottom. (See “Framing the stood those roof framing principles
circular saw, but finish them with Gable-End Overhang,” page 133.) before attempting a hip roof.
a handsaw. Think of a hip roof as a common
Position and fasten the raf- gable roof (the middle rafters)
ters. Position the shed rafters with two angled rafters on each
so they sit right above studs, not over end, running at 45-degree angles
Hip roofs are challenging to build. from the ridgeboard like angled
the stud bays. The rafters should
transfer the roof load to the studs in They require intermediate to ad- sawhorse legs. The four rafters run-
straight vertical lines. Toenail the vanced carpentry skills and the ning at 45-degree angles are called
rafters to the cap plates using 16d ability to do three-dimensional hip rafters. Between these hip raf-
nails. Install outriggers and barge problem solving. Avoid hip roofs ters and the cap plate run hip jack
rafters for overhangs on each side of unless you are confident of your rafters of varying lengths.
 147
HIP ROOFS

apply, as do the principles for cut-

Hip Jack Rafters oe Rafters
ting the bird’s mouths. (See “Gable-
Roof Framing,” pages 121-142.)

Calculate the hip-rafter

length. Because the hip rafters
run at a 45-degree angle, they will
invariably be longer than the com-
mon rafters. When determining the
rise and run of a common gable
rafter in the previous chapter, you
used a run figure of 12. For hip raf-
ters, that run figure changes to 17.
A hip rafter must run 17 inches to
reach the same height that a com-
mon rafter reaches in 12 inches of
run. Also, because the hip rafters
run at a 45-degree angle, the cut at
the ridge will actually be two side,
or cheek, cuts so that each rafter can Ol
“GIHS
8dIH
1FSYaWVS
S4OOY
sit snugly between the perpendicu-
lar common rafters.

For this example, assume a 6-in-12

roof that rises 6 feet. The hip-rafter
run is 17 feet. Notice in the drawing
that the hip-rafter run is not half the
building’s span, but the distance
Common Rafters
from the building line at the cor-
Common ner to the center of the building’s
Rafter
width at the ridgeboard.
Hip Jack Rafters
Now use a framing square to
find hip-rafter length. Note on the
Hip Roofs. A hip roof is basically a gable roof with angled rafters on each end, framing square that a unit length
making for complex angle cuts. for a hip rafter on a 6-in-12 roof is
18. You'll find that number under
Beginning a Hip Roof a common gable roof. There is no the 6-inch mark on the second line
difference between a common raf- of the table etched into the fram-
ter used ona hip roof and a com- ing square, along the line marked
Difficulty level: WA,
mon rafter used on a gable roof. “Length Hip or Valley Per Foot
Tools and Materials The same principles of rise and run of Run.” Multiply the roof run by

m Basic carpentry tools and nails

Centerline 14 |it : | |
m Framing square of Rafter | |
m Two-by ridgeboard and rafter stock

Cut the ridgeboard and Lee aed of Rafters

common rafters. To obtain
the ridgeboard length for a hip roof,
take the length of the building, sub-
tract the span (or two times the run), Actual Length of Ridge
and add the thickness of the rafters.
Cut the ridgeboard from appropri-
ate two-by stock. Theoretical Length of Ridge Run

Determine the building’s slope, and

Piel. Lh
then cut the common rafters for a 1 Determine the length of the ridgeboard; cut it; and install the common gable
hip roof as you would cut them for rafters.
148
SHED, HIP & GAMBREL ROOFS

the hip-rafter unit length: 12 x 18 =

216 inches, or 18 feet. The hip-rafter
length for a run of 12 feet (at a 6-in-
17 slope) is 18 feet.
Shorten the hip rafter. The
hip-rafter length you just ob-
tained is the theoretical rafter length,
the distance from the building line
to the center of the ridge along the
roof’s hip. Just as with common
gable rafters, you must shorten the Common Rafter

hip rafter to accommodate the thick-

ness of the ridge. This procedure is
complicated by the fact that the hip
rafter fits between a common rafter
parallel with the ridgeboard and the Common Rafter
last true common rafter on the main
part of the roof. So to get the actual
hip-rafter length, you must deduct
one-half the 45-degree thickness of
the ridgeboard.
Draw a 45-degree line across the
crown edge of the ridgeboard; then
measure the length of this line and
divide by two. Draw a square line
across the crown edge at one end of
the hip rafter. Measure back from
the square line the amount at which Shorten by this amount.
you just arrived, and make a mark.
Centerline
Draw another square line through
the mark, and find that line’s center
point. This is the line for the short-
ened hip rafter.
Common Rafter Ridgeboard
Mark the ridge side cuts.
It’s easy to mark for side, or Hip Rafter oe Shorten by this amount.
cheek, cuts by using the framing 7
/ 4
re
¢
oe 7
square and rafter table. The last “
Laney: /¢

line on the rafter table reveals fig-

ures, by unit rise, for “Side Cut ¢
¢

,
Hip or Valley.” Z
s

For a roof with a 6-inch unit rise, the

side cut figure is 11% inches. Place
the framing square at the uphill end
of the hip rafter on its crown edge,
aligning 17 on the blade and 117%. on
the tongue to establish the proper
side-cut angle. With the framing
square in position, make a side-cut
line across the crown edge of the
rafter intersecting the center of the
cut line for shortening the rafter.
Turn the square over, align it again,
and make the second side-cut line,
forming a point with the other side-
cut line. 4 Mark the rafter on its crown edge for the side cuts using the center of the short
ened mark as reference.
 149
HIP ROOFS

RAFTER TABLES ON A FRAMING SQUARE |

Some people get a framing square The second line of the rafter table jack rafter, check under the inch
and use it as a large sae a gives the unit length, in inches mark for your respective unit rise
standard carpentry. They are un- and decimals, of hip or valley and look along the line marked
aware of the wealth of information rafters per foot of run. This is the for your on-center framing. You'll
imprinted on its side. The rafter same principle as that described find the common length difference
table found on a framing square in the previous paragraph, but for jack rafters.
contains much work-saving data these unitlength figures are for Slope also affects side cuts. When
essential to many framing calcula- hip or valley rafters instead of rafters meet, they don’t always meet
tions. Here’s a Teena of the common rafters. at 45 or 90 degrees. The angle
table line by line. The third and fourth lines of the varies and is affected by slope. To
The first line in a rafter table gives rafter table are the difference in make a side cut, place a framing
unit lengths for common rafters. jack-rafter lengths for either 16-inch square along the crown edge of
_ (See “Rafter Length Measurement,” (third line) or 24-inch (fourth line) the rafter, with the 12 lined up on
page 123.) Unit length is the com- on-center framing. When jack raf- the blade and another figure lined
mon-rafter length required, in inch- ters run between the hip rafters and up along the tongue, and mark the
es and decimals, at any given top plates of a building, they get rafter along the blade. That second
slope to gain a foot of run (a foot smaller as they move away from figure, the tongue figure, is the one
of horizontal distance). A rafter the last common rafter and work that varies. For side cuts atthe base Ol
“G3IHS
8dIH
14YdWV
SJOOY
ata steep 10-in-12 slope has to into the corner of the building. The of jack rafters, you'll find jack side
be longer to cover a foot of run amount you decrease each jack in cuts along the fifth line of the rafter
than a rafter at an 8-in-12 slope. length is a predictable figure. That table, under the inch mark that des-
The figures on the rafter table’s figure is dependent on slope and ignates unit rise. For hip- or valley-
first line break out those runs for on-center spacing, however, so to rafter side cuts, move on to the sixth
you by the unit rise of your slope determine ee much to lop off a (last) line on the framing square.
(as with all the figures on a ae
table). You look below the inch
designation that corresponds to
your unit rise to find the numbers 2'2 24 20
T
ie) 1'8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
1)aL

you need. If you're framing an

23 65 12971216
Length Common Rafters Per Foot Run 21 83 20. 81 1389 1g 42
2474 2402 18 36 18 17 69 17_—«44 723 17 ~—~08 |
Length Hip or Valley PerFool Run et as 16 vst 16 4" = |
8-in-12 roof, for example, look Difference in Length of Jacks 16 Inches Centers 28 At 27% 1B eA aA
Difference in Length of Jacks 2 Feot Centers 4a vt a1 2 M26 en 28 25 Se 2a 24
6 Mer 6 ie 0% 190% 14 Me 13 ce 7
ide Culs ofJacks Use
at the row of numbers below the ‘Side Cuts of Hip of Valley Use 8 Mw 8 Mt Ve Me" Wre* 1 he {1 Bg?

framing square’s 8-inch mark

(that’s the 8-inch mark on the
square’s blade, or wider por-
tion). If you're framing a 1 2-in-
12 roof, look under the number
12 on the blade of the square.

EASY
SIDE CUTS

Here’s an easy way to make

tidge side cuts for a hip raf-
ter. Set the framing square for
the correct slope and mark
along both sides of the tongue
as shown. Adjust your circu-
lar saw to cut at a 45-degree
angle by tilting the base plate
of the saw. Check the cutting
angle using an angle square.
Make two 45-degree cuts with
the circular saw, one from
each side of the board, and
you're done.
150
SHED, HIP & GAN

Now turn thi om the raf- and measure back for the desired
the framing : plumb build- overhang distance.
draw a plur ning square
Square a line across the crown
corner (dow ind run.
edge at the end of the rafter after
side-cut line: e as a refer-
calculating your overhang length;
and repeat tl rk a bird’s- find the center point; and mark it.
the ridge plu you would Draw side-cut lines, just as you
Next, deter-
did at the ridge, but this time the
Lay ou erhang. (See
arrow these side-cut lines create
the firs g,”” on page
will point downhill. At the uphill
in Step 3, the ng square’s
ends of the side-cut lines, draw a
measure bac he hip-rafter
set of tail plumb-cut lines. The tail
along the ra iof’s unit rise,
cut will accommodate fascia boards
where they meet at the corner of
the building.
Cut the backing. Before in-
stalling the hip rafters, cut an
angled backing along the top edge
with your circular saw. This is noth-
ing more than a chamfer, or angled
Shortened cut, that will allow the roof sheath-
Amount ing to rest flush against the top edge
of the hip rafter. To determine the
Ridge Plumb- Centerline
Cut Line Building Line
amount you must cut off, set the
framing square so that the rise on
Seat Cut
the tongue aligns with the crown
Plumb Cut
edge and 17 on the blade also aligns
with the crown edge. Measure down
the blade one-half the thickness of
Tail Plumb-Cut Line the rafter, and make a mark. Then

5 Measure the rafter length from the first ridge mark you made; mark the building draw a line along the length of the
line; then measure the overhang. rafter corresponding to the mark.

Rafter Crown Side

ia
it fa
& Chamfer the tops of the hip rafters before installing them by cutting down to the line you make with the square.
 peel,
HIP ROOFS

HIP-RAFTER OVERHANG _
To mark for an overhang on hip root of 288 is 16.97 inches. because the fascia will bulge out
rafters, you need to know that the Now if you multiply 12 x 1.41 or be indented if the hip ratter is
run of all hip-rafter overhangs is (actually 1.4142135, the true too long or too short.
1.41 inches for every 1 inch of square root of 2), you also get
common-rafter overhang. That's 16.97. Round off to 17 inches.
because, being in the corner, the That's the overhang the hip rafter
run of the hip-rafter overhang is must run to maintain a 12-inch
the hypotenuse of a right triangle common overhang. To determine ;---------------—- Beet ---------

that has sides equal to the run of the length the rafter must be to
the common rafters and jack raf- achieve the overhang of 17 inch- Hip Jack Rafter
ters. Theoretically speaking, think es (which also happens to be the
of a common-rafter overhang of unit run for a hip rafter), multiply
Run of Common
Rafter Overhang
1 inch and use the Pythagorean the overhang by the unit length for
theorem to determine the Ae rafter hip rafters from the framing
overhang (hypotenuse):1 24 |2= square’s rafter table. Assuming a
| 2; the square root of 2 is 1.41. 6-inch rise, you'd multiply 1x18 =
18 inches. Measure down the " eee !
_ Assume a common-ratter over- goes Run of hip 1
hang of 12 inches and use the rafter from the building line 18 j rafter tail = | “G4IHS
8dIH
1FYaWV
SIOOY
| Pythagorean theorem to deter- inches to achieve the 17-inch
fe ees
diagonal of!
[etka eae
| mine the hip-rafter overhang: overhang. The exactness of this VA ;
| 1444+ 144= 288. The square measurement is crucial

prt: Hip-Roof Difficulty Level: WA, lengths of the jack rafters. For a roof
slope of 6-in-12 (the common-rafter
Jack Rafters Tools and Materials slope, not the hip-rafter slope), the
Hip-roof jack rafters run between m Basic carpentry tools and nails figure is 17% inches for 16-inch-on-
the hip rafter and the top plates. center framing and 26'*/6 inches for
Each jack rafter is a different m Framing square
24-inch framing. Keep those figures
length, but because the roof is m Twoby rafter stock in mind.
symmetrical, you can cut two of
them at a time, one for each side Find the common differ- 2 Lay out the jack rafters.
of the roof. Space the hip jack ence in jack rafters. Use Just as with hip rafters, start by
rafters using the same on-center the framing-square rafter table to drawing a square line at the uphill
spacing as you used for the com- find the common difference in the end of the jack rafter. Measure one-
mon gable rafters.

As you move in from the end wall

along the length of the building,
the hip jack rafters gain in length
until the one closest to the first com-
mon rafter is nearly as long as the
common rafters. The difference in
jack-rafter length is predictable, and
is called the difference in length
of jacks. After you determine the
length of one hip rafter, you can de-
4a

L
termine the lengths of all the others
by adding or subtracting this com-
mon length difference. The common
length difference varies by slope,
and you can find the common length
differences on the rafter table im-
printed on your framing square, list-
ed along a line labeled “Difference
in Length of Jacks” for either 16- or
isi
1 Hip jack rafters vary in length by a common difference. Line 4 on the table
24-inch-on-center framing. shows the difference in length of jack rafters spaced 24 in. on center.
152
SHED, HIP & GAMBREL ROOFS

half the 45-degree thickness of the 148.) There will be only one side will be shorter than the common
hip rafter from the square line to cut for jack rafters, not two as in the rafters by the amount of the differ-
shorten the rafter and draw a sec- hip rafters. With the framing square ence in jack rafter lengths (17% or
ond square line. Find the center of aligned for the slope of your roof, 26'/6 in the example). At the lower
mark the ridge-cut line, starting end of the rafter, draw a building
the second square line. Using the
from the end of the side-cut line. line and use it to mark the plumb
framing square, measure and mark
and seat cuts for the bird’s mouth.
the side-cut line that corresponds Measure and mark the length of the Add any overhang distance by
to the unit rise of your roof. (See first hip jack rafter from the square measuring along the crown edge of
“Mark the Ridge Side Cuts,” page line you initially drew. This rafter
the rafter using the unit length for
your roof’s unit rise. Mark a tail-cut
One-Half the 45° Thickness
line at the downhill end of the raf-
ter. With all the rafters marked, cut
them, preferably with a power miter
saw or radial arm saw as these tools
will provide the most accurate side
cuts, although you can make these
Hip Rafter cuts using a circular saw.
Plumb Cut
Building Line Install the jack rafters. First,
lay out the jack-rafter positions
on the cap plates and hip rafters.
Erect the jack rafters in pairs to pre-
Tail Plumb Cut vent the hip rafters from being
pushed out of line. Install the first
pair about halfway between the
Seat Cut
wall plates and the ridge, making
Plumb Cut sure the hip rafter stays straight.
Toenail the rafter to the cap plate
with two 16d nails, one on each
L

y] Measure and mark each rafter for length and various cuts. side; attach the top end to the hip
rafter with two 12d nails.

Install these jack rafters first.

3 Install the jack rafters in pairs, starting midway up the hip rafter.
 153
GAMBREL ROOFS

Gambrel Roofs
qe yh REMOVING NAILS CLEANLY
Av You probably have often seen
A hammer will often mar lumber when you remove a nail. gambrel roofs on barns and utility
By using a block beneath the hammer, you can protect the surface of buildings. That is because the design
good lumber beneath it and gain extra leverage on the nail. allows for more usable headroom on
the topmost floor. These roofs are
also popular in house designs, and
you'll see them on so-called Dutch
Colonial-style houses both old and
new. The design originally comes
from the English countryside.
A gambrel roof is really a combina-
tion of two gable roofs of varying
slopes. The part of the gambrel roof
that rises directly off the top plates—
the first gable—tends to have a se-
vere slope, like 16 in 12 (% pitch).
The part of the gambrel roof that Ol
“G4IHS
8dIH
14¥dWV
SOO’
rises to the ridge—the second gable
roof—has a less severe slope, say,
8 in 12 (4 pitch). Wherever the raf-
ters meet from these varying pitch-
es, you need a support such as a
wall, purlin, or post. An exception
to this rule may occur when you
frame with gambrel trusses, in
which case the truss engineer will
alert you to any required support.

Gambrel Roofs. Believed to have originated in the English countryside, gambrel roofs have two different pitches.
154
SHED, HIP & GAMBREL ROOFS

For the example shown in this chap- distance from the cap plate of the is 8 feet, found by measuring from
ter, let’s assume a 24-foot total span. building wall to the center of the the cap plate of the mid-span sup-
That divides the gambrel roof into cap plate of a mid-pitch supporting porting wall to the center of the
two different roofs with two differ- wall. The total rise is the distance ridgeboard. The total upper-portion
ent rises and runs. The total run for the roof section rises from the floor rise is the vertical distance from the
the lower part of the gambrel roof to the top of the wall. The total run support wall’s cap plate to the center
is 4 feet, found by measuring the for the top part of the gambrel roof of the ridge.

EXPOSED RIDGE BEAMS FOR CATHEDRAL CEILINGS

Many cathedral-ceiling designs together and trim them later. Mea- Figure the rafter length in the
have an exposed ridge beam, sure back one-half the width of the usual way for gable rafters, and
a structural beam that supports ridge beam from the ridge plumb cut the lower bird’s mouth. Note
roof loads. Note that a ridge line for the seat cut. For a glue-lam- that the seat cut at the exterior
beam must have support in the inated beam made from 2xAs, this walls’ top plates must be the full
gable end of the structure that figure is 1% inches; for one made width of the top plate, otherwise
runs in an uninterrupted load from 2xé6s, the figure is 2°%% inches. the drywall from the wall won't
line all the way down to the foot- Make a plumb line, and cut out the properly match the drywall on
ings. A ridge beam made from bird's mouth. the ceiling.
an architectural-grade glue-lami-
nated beam is common because
you can sand the wood and coat Glue-Laminated
it with polyurethane for an at Beam
tractive finish. Traditional com-
mon-rafter framing has the rafters
lying against the ridge, however,
and with a aint ridge beam,
the rafters should sit on top of the
ridge. This means cuttin Finds
mouths not only where the rafter
sits on the exterior-wall cap plate
but also where the rafters sit on
the ridge beam.
In this case, you won't shorten the
rafter for the ridge. Instead, make
the ridge plumb line, but let the
rest of the rafter run past the line
a foot or so.The rafters from the
roof’s other side will lap these raf-
ters; you'll face-nail or bolt them

Ridge Flumb Line

2x6 Glue-
Laminated Beam
Double Flate ———= =<,
ok
LON

Stud —

St
ts
etre
orcas
aee
aee
 155
GAMBREL ROOFS

Laying Out
Shortened —>
a Gambrel Roof a a |

Difficulty Level: Wa
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
m Framing square
m Two-by lumber stock
Ridgeboard
| Lay out the upper rafters.
Obtain the slope and run of the
Centerline
upper roof section from the blue-
prints. Mark the ridge cut, and mea-
sure the pattern rafter as you would
for any gable roof. (See “Rafter
Length Measurement,” pages 123-
127.) At the plumb building line, Ol
“G4IHS
8dIH
19YaWV
SJOOY
subtract the width of the support-
ing-wall top plate (5 inches for
2x6 walls; 3'4 inches for 2x4 walls)
and draw a second plumb line.
Using the building line as a refer-
ence point, mark a seat-cut line
90 degrees to it at the crown edge
of the rafter. This seat cut is where
the rafter will sit on the cap plate.
The seat cut should be the width
of the top plate, either 34 or
5'/ inches.
y Lay out the lower rafters.
Obtain the slope and run of
the lower roof section from the
blueprints. Note that the tops of
the lower rafters tuck under the
double top plate.
At the top end of the rafter, mark
a plumb line, setting your fram-
ing square to the correct slope.
Measure down along the plumb
cut the thickness of the two top Seat Cut
plates, 3 inches for two-by lumber. Plumb Cut
Draw a seat-cut line 90 degrees to Plumb Cut

the plumb cut at this point; then

cut out the resulting notch. At Level Cut (for combination cut)
the other end of the rafter, mark ——————— 1 es
the rafter length (obtained as for 2 Lay out the bottom rafters, and cut them to fit under the support wall.
any common gable rafter) with
a plumb building line. Using the overhang length by stepping it off overhang length for the tail cut. If
building line as a reference, cut a with a framing square, using the you want the rafters to end square,
bird’s mouth at its base where the Pythagorean theorem, or using just make the square cut. If you want
rafter will sit on the cap plate. the framing square’s rafter tables. a combination cut, mark and cut
On the basis of the amount of over- (See Chapter 9, beginning on page along a line 90 degrees to the plumb
hang you desire, figure the rafter 121.) Mark a plumb line at the cut near the end of the rafter.
156
SHED, HIP & GAMBREL ROOFS

Assembling the bottom of the partition wall’s (See “Ridgeboard & Rafter Instal-
lation,” page 130.) Use 16d nails to
a Gambrel Roof top plate.
secure the rafters to the support-
Install the upper rafters. wall cap plates and 8d nails at the
Difficulty level: WA Once the lower rafters are in ridge. Attach collar ties between
place, install the top, or upper every third rafter, face-nailing them
Tools and Materials
slope, rafters, following the con- to the rafters with four 16d nails on
w Basic carpentry tools and nails ventional gable-roof procedure. each end.
= 2x4 partition wall in place
m 2x4 braces and cleats Temporary Brace
m Two-by rafters and stock for collar
ties (one for every third rafter).
Support Wall
] Prepare for framing. Before
assembling the gambrel roof
rafters, put down the decking on
your top floor in the area between
where the two support walls will
be. Erect 2x4 walls the entire length
of the roof directly beneath where
the rafters will meet. Use diagonal
braces to keep the walls plumb. Lower
Nail off the braces to cleats nailed Common
Rafter
to your deck.
Install the lower rafters.
With the support walls in place,
erect and nail off all the base, or
lower slope, rafters. Use 16d nails
at both ends. Toenail into the top
of the outside wall at the bottom of
the rafters. At the top, nail through y "Erect and nail off the lower rafters using 16d nails.
the crown edge and toenail up into

Upper Common Rafter

Collar Tie

3 Erect the upper rafters with a collar tie every third rafter.
 RB,ecause dormers serve both
practical and aesthetic func-
tions, adding them to your roof
expands the design options avail-
able to you. On the practical side,
a dormer allows you to install a
window on a pitched roof, pro-
viding light and ventilation to
what would otherwise be a
closed-in space. The dormer con-
struction adds useable living
space and headroom to an area
with a sloping ceiling. Aesthe-
tically, dormers add architectural
interest to the roof. Their pres-
ence helps identify specific styles
of housing. The two main types of dormers are gable and
shed dormers. Both types are easiest to incorporate into
the design during the initial roof framing, although retro-
fitting a dormer is possible. Building any kind of dormer
requires the use of the framing principles you've seen
throughout this book. Gable dormers require some ad-
vanced rafter cuts for the valley rafters and valley jack
rafters, similar to the cuts used in hip roofs. Shed dorm-
ers, with their flat roofs, are easier to build.
158
FRAMING DORMERS

Gable Dormer
A gable dormer has a roof with two
pitched planes that meet at a ridge,
just as in any gable roof. The ceil-
ing inside is usually flat, though
sometimes it may be vaulted. The
roof slope need not match that of
the house, but designing a simi-
lar roofline may help the dormer
fit in visually. The intersection of
the dormer and house roof forms
a valley to channel away water.
Although a gable, or doghouse,
dormer is good for creating natural
light and ventilation, its proportions
restrict its size, making it somewhat
ineffective for increasing usable
floor space.

Building a Gable Dormer

Difficulty level: WA,
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
= Two-by rafter lumber
& Two-by wall stud lumber
= Plywood sheathing

Establish the rough open-

ing. Obtain the length of the
rough opening you'll require in the
roof from the blueprints. If you’re
adding the dormer on your own, you
Headers
can calculate the length by determin-
ing the rough opening required for
the window(s) you plan to install,
and then adding wall space between
them and to each side. In your plan-
ning, end the dormer at rafters on
each side. These rafters will be the
trimmer rafters. Double up the trim-
mer rafters. Note that because of ceil-
ing-joist placement, the rafters get
doubled on the right. Make sure the
rafters are arrow straight.

Install the headers. Working

with the depth of the dormer
given in the plans, install double
headers at the front and rear of the
opening. Establish plumb lines on
the trimmer rafters, and nail the
headers in place with 16d nails. Cut 2 Header off the rafters above and below the roof’s rough opening.
and install short rafters above and
 159
GABLE DORMER

below the gable dormer, maintain-

ing the rafter on-center spacing.

Frame the front wall. Use

the rough-opening dimensions
of your window to determine the
height of the dormer’s front wall.
Frame the wall with two-by lumber,
using double studs. Make sure the
outside corner studs sit plumb, di-
rectly on top of the trimmer rafters,
and cut them on an angle so that
their ends bear fully on the trimmer
rafters’ crown edge. You can most
easily acquire the angle by holding
a stud plumb in place, drawing a
line across the rafter’s crown, and
transferring that angle to the other
studs after accounting for length.
Make all the studs (including the
side-wall studs, later) flush with the
outside of the header and trimmer
rafters, allowing any excess to pro-
trude into the room, where you
can deal with it when you finish the
walls. Double the front wall’s top
plate, leaving spaces on both ends oOsugwyo
ONIWva
Build a stud wall on top of the lower header. Leave spaces on each end of the that will allow the cap plates on the
top plate so that the side walls can lock in.
adjacent walls to overlap it.
Install the side walls and
ridge. To make the side walls,
run top plates back from the dor-
mer’s front wall so they rest on the
trimmer rafters. Cut the cap plates
so they overlap the front wall’s top
plates where you left space on each
end. Fill in the side walls with studs,
matching the on-center framing of
your front wall. These studs will
get shorter as you work up the trim-
mer rafters.

With the walls standing in place, run

a dormer ridgeboard from the upper
header out above the front wall. If
you want the ridge to overhang, be
sure to account for this. With the
ridgeboard in place, support it with
a stud that runs from the center of
the front wall’s top plate to the un-
derside of the board.
Attach the valley and com-
mon rafters. At the back end
of the ridgeboard where it meets the
header, run angled rafters from each
Install the side walls and a ridgeboard that butts the upper header and rests on side of this junction to the trimmer
a stud in front. Support the ridgeboard down to the header. rafters. These two will be valley
160
FRAMING DORMERS

rafters. (See “Laying Out Valley Valley Rafters

Rafters,” page 163.) Use standard
common gable rise-and-run calcu-
lations to cut and install the dor-
mer’s common gable rafters above
the front wall. (See “Rafter Length
Measurement,” page 123.)
6 Install the valley jack raf-
ters. Valley jack rafters run
between the ridge and the valley
rafter and between the header
and the valley rafter. The cut at
the ridge and header is a plumb
cut. At their bases, valley jack raf-
ters have a side cut that corre- = =|
sponds with the roof’s slope. (See
“Lay out the jack rafters,” page
151 for how to make side cuts.) 4 VA
a al|a ]/

Vis Af >| ti
To lay out the rafters, determine
the common difference in length & Install as many common rafters as the dormer design permits, plus valley rafters
from the rafter table on your fram- on both sides of the ridgeboard.
ing square, just as you did for the
hip-roof jack rafters. (See “Installing
Hip-Roof Jack Rafters,” page 151.)
Make sure there’s a common rafter
at the base of the valley rafters, and
use it as a basis for the length of the
valley jack rafters. Begin measuring
16 (or 24) inches on center from the
common rafter to position the val-
ley jack rafters.
Square a line across the crown edge
of each valley jack rafter near the
uphill end. Shorten the rafter by
one-half the thickness of the ridge-
board, and draw a second square
line. Draw a ridge plumb-cut line
from the second square line. Now
from the first square line you drew,
measure the length of the rafter and
draw a square line across the rafter’s
crown edge. Shorten the rafter by
one-half the 45-degree thickness of
the valley rafter, and draw a second Ridge Flumb-
Cut Line
square line across it’s crown edge.
Mark the center of the line, and use
Second Square Line
this center mark to mark your side- and Side-Cut Lines
cut lines. Draw a plumb-cut line on
each side of the rafter from the side- Plumb-Cut vee
cut line.
& Valley jack rafters run between the dormer’s ridge and the valley rafters.
Make the side and ridge cuts with
a circular saw, power miter saw,
or radial-arm saw, and attach the valley rafters. Attach nailing blocks cept roof sheathing. Once you've
rafters with 16d nails by nailing to the outside of the double rafters framed the dormer, sheathe it as
through the ridge and through the in the area of the dormer walls toac- — you sheathe the roof and walls.
 161
SHED DORMER

& RrO> ogTARTING

Wyo HARD-TO-
HOLD NAILS
Use needle-nose pliers to grip
small, hard-to-hold nails or nails
in a tight spot where it’s difficult
to fit your hand.

| A shed dormer, like a gable dormer, begins with a rough opening. Double the
trimmer rafters on each side.
Shed Dormer
A shed dormer differs from a ONIWV
SdYsawa
gable dormer in a number of
ways, but the principal difference
Window Header
is that rafters for a shed dormer
run parallel with the main roof
rafters, whereas the rafters in a
gable dormer run perpendicular.
For large shed dormers that have
dormer rafters with a run as long
as that of the main roof rafters,
such as the one described below,
there is no need to header-off the
rafters above and below the rough
opening in the roof; the shed dor-
mer outright replaces the rafters
in the area it occupies. For smaller
shed dormers, however, you will
header-off a rough opening in the
main roof rafters and secure the
dormer rafters to the header.
Build a simple stud wall on the double top plate of th e building's wall for the
Building a Shed Dormer front wall of the dormer.

Difficulty Level: @WA, Establish the rough lower wall’s cap plate. Follow the
opening. Just as with a gable spacing of the studs below. Allow
Tools and Materials dormer, doubled trimmer rafters an adequate rough opening for
establish the length of the dormer your window(s). Use two-by studs,
@ Basic carpentry tools doubled at the wall’s outside edges,
rough opening.
m Twoby rafter lumber and doubled where they define the
Erect the front stud wall. window rough opening. Note that
= Two-by wall stud lumber
Build a stud wall on the front you need to cut the end studs to fit
= Plywood sheathing side of the dormer, right on the the slope of the roof.
162
FRAMING DORMERS

Cut and install the shed your guide. Before drawing the cut Because each stud must be a dif-
dormer rafters. Determine line, though, make sure the end raf- ferent length, you'll mark and cut
the correct size rafter stock to use ter is at the same elevation as the each one separately.
by consulting a rafter span table or other rafters. Check this at two lo-
The side-wall studs will have the
your plans. Choose arrow-straight cations: first, install a temporary
board across the other rafters about
same on-center framing as a typi-
rafter stock. Follow the rafter-cut-
one-third of the way up the dormer cal two-by wall. Along the crown
ting principles for shed roofs. (See edge of the trimmer rafters, mark
“Shed Roof Rafters,” page 144.) roof, and lift the end rafter until it
16- or 24-inch on-center intervals,
Cut bird’s mouths where the rafters abuts the underside of this board;
second, make sure the crown edge using level dimensions. Next,
sit on the top plate but not at the
of the rafter’s ridge end is flush with plumb-up a two-by stud on edge
upper end; make a plumb cut at the
the top of the main ridgeboard. at each on-center mark, and hold
proper slope so the rafters can butt
it against the inside face of the
the roof’s main ridgeboard. To de- Once you've drawn the cut line, re- trimmer rafter. For the bottom of
termine the slope, measure the rise move and cut the end rafter; then the stud, draw a cut line using the
and run of the dormer or get the set it in place directly over the trim- crown edge of the trimmer rafters
figure from the plans. mer rafters, flush with the outside. as a guide. For the top of the two-
The ridge-cut angle for the end At the ridge end, predrill and nail by, draw two lines: one aligned
rafters, which sit on top of the dou- down through the crown edge of with the crown edge of the end
ble trimmer rafters, will be different the end rafters into the trimmer raf- rafter and one aligned with the
from the angle you cut for the other ters; at the eaves end, toenail them bottom edge of the end rafter.
dormer rafters. The easiest way to into the wall plate using 16d nails.
determine this angle, which will For the cut on the bottom of the
Where the rest of the rafters butt stud, set your circular saw’s sole
be sharp, is to cut the end rafter to
the ridge, drive 16d nails through plate to the angle marked using a
length and make a plumb cut and the face of the ridge into the raf-
bird’s mouth, just as you did with sliding T-bevel, and cut across the
ter’s end grain. Toenail the rafters entire width of the stud. For the
all the other dormer rafters. Next,
at the top plate of the supporting top of the stud, cut across its entire
temporarily rest the end rafter in wall using 16d nails.
place on the dormer’s header, but width at the topmost mark only.
run the rafter just to the inside of Frame the side walls. Once For the lower mark, cut only to a
the trimmer rafters. Hold the end the rafters are in place, the next depth of 1/ inches. Then rip down
rafter in place, next to the trimmer step is to install notched two-by from the end of the board to cut a
rafter, and draw a cut line using the studs that run from the top of the 1-inch-wide notch that will rest
crown edge of the trimmer rafter as trimmer rafters to the end rafters. against the inside face of the rafter.

End Rafter Flush

with outside of Z
Trimmer Rafter 4&

Wy
iy
ON

Cut and install the dormer rafters. Note that the end rafters require a special cut Plumb the side-wall studs, and mark
to sit on top of the roof rafters. three cut lines.
 163
SHED DORMER

Cut the studs in pairs and use the Collar-Tie Plate

second set on the other side of the
dormer, but be sure to notch oppo-
site edges. Work your way up the
trimmer rafters, holding each stud
in place as you go for each of the
on-center marks. Attach 2x4 blocks
to the trimmer rafters.
5 Install the collar ties. After
all the studs and rafters are
SS.

in place, install collar ties from

the shed-dormer rafters across the
width of the roof. Use whatever
two-by stock you used for your
shed-dormer rafters. Face-nail the
collar ties in place with four 10d
nails on each end. You'll find that
you can’t face-nail the collar ties to
the inside face of your dormer’s
outside rafters because the studs
block the collar tie from coming
flush. Install a short two-by plate
here, with standoff blocks, so you
have a nailing surface.
AS
SdYdWAO
ONIWV
LAYING
OUT VALLEY RAFTERS
Most gable-dormer designs require valley rafters. gable dormer, take into account the thickness of the
Cutting and installing valley ratters involves some double common rafter. Shorten the valley rafter by one-
challenging carpentry and calculation. half the 45-degree thickness of the outside rafter and
the entire 45-degree thickness of the inside rafter.
1 Measure and mark the rafter. Mark the top end
of the valley rafter for side cuts just as you would mark 2 Make the bottom side cut. Use the rafter-length
a hip rafter. (See “Beginning a Hip Roof,” page 147.) mark as the center of a single side cut, so the raf-
Remember the run is 17, not 12. Determine the rafter ter tail will sit flush against thetrimmer rafter’s face.
length using the “Length Hip or Valley” figure from the Make the usual hip rafter’s cut at the ridge. These
rafter table, just as you would for a hip rafter. When will be compound angles, so use a compound miter
you shorten the length at the end of the rafter for a saw if you have one.
Top Side Cuts / Shorten
byone-half the45° thickness
ofinside Bottom Side Cut
er One-Half header component...
AS’ Ridge L Fae eEERET
Marks for a Side Cut
Thickness =

Rafter Length

Double Rafter
Cut this line|

Ridge
Cut Line

Dormer Rafte BS

Shorten by one-half 45° thick-

~ ness of outside rafter plus full Dormer Ridgeboarad
1 45° thickness of inside rafter.
Section Ill

Framing
Projects

Building Stairs 166

Design Ideas for Stairs 190

Basement Framing 192

Design Ideas for Basements 204

Installing a Bay Window 206

Design Ideas for Windows 213

Home Plans 218

12
EP ER TE EES LIE IR IS

tair construction appears challenging to all but the

most experienced carpenters. But if you’ve mastered
the other framing techniques presented in this book, you
should be able to build stairs. This chapter presents sev-
eral types of stairs, beginning with simple straight-run
stairs. You'll learn to calculate the rise and run, to mea-
sure and cut materials, and to install the components.
There is also information on installing L-shaped stairs
and three-step winder stairs.
 167
CALCULATING THE STAIRCASE SIZE

Straight-Run Calculating the line. Measure the total rise at each

corner of the stairwell. If the mea-
Basics Staircase Size surements differ, use the shortest
dimension as the total rise and plan
The closed-riser, notched-stringer Rise and run, and the relationship
to shim under the stringers when
staircase project in this chapter may between them, are critical features in
you install them. In the stairs being
be used as a main stairway or for staircase design. As in roof framing,
connecting the basement with the rise refers to vertical distance and
first floor. This kind of staircase run to horizontal. The total rise is the
is also useful for porches, where total distance the stairs must climb
closed risers block a view under vertically, while the total run is the
the porch. For simpler, more basic total distance the stairs cover hori-
utility stairs, leave out the risers. zontally. Unit rise and unit run are
layout terms that refer to the dimen-
Every situation is different. This
sions of each individual riser and
chapter gives specific dimensions
tread. The rise and run on each step
for building a specific staircase
must be nearly identical. Stairs that
and assumes that you already have
vary in tread depth or riser height
a framed stairwell opening. You
are dangerous. Codes require that
should study the method used to
the difference between the highest
help you make your own calcula-
and lowest risers not exceed % inch.
tions. In most cases, these calcu-
If you do your calculations in deci-
lations will result in a few choices
mals with a calculator and round
rather than a single solution. If
to the nearest /2 inch, you should a dS Se ee ee eS
given a choice, always opt for com-
be close enough. (See “Changing
fort and safety over meeting mini-
Fractions to Decimals,” below.)
mal standards.
Calculate the total rise. You
Difficulty Level: WA, must calculate the total rise from
finished floor surfaces. If you are in-
Tools and Materials stalling stairs in a house where the
m Basic carpentry tools finished flooring is not yet in place,
find out the flooring thickness and
m Router factor it into the total rise.
m Power miter saw
To get an exact vertical measure- eee onmeee To Ca See

= Plumb bob, level, framing square, ment, run the measuring tape Measure the total rise, ensuring cl
ONIGI
SaIVLS
and calculator alongside a wall or plumb-bob that the measuring tape is plumb.
= Story pole
m 2x12s for stringers (length
CHANGING FRACTIONS TO DECIMALS—
dependent on your stairs)
ive COONS on vy 8 O75 OMe sme Oy7Z188
m %-inch plywood
w@ 1x12s for skirtboards
Ye 0.0625 | '% 0.4063 | Ya 0.7500
we 1x8 hardwood or softwood 3 0.0938 | 6 0.4375 = 374 00:7 813
lumber for risers Ye 051250 sau 722 04688" 9) 7c 08125
w Standard hardwood stair treads
39 0.1563 | Ya ©-5000mes lien 6/3280 WO84398
m Newel posts (if at least one side
of the stairs is open) 1 %e 0.1875 | '%o Wem! 9i 0.8750
m Balustrade (handrails and | “/32 0.2188 6 0.5625 2732 0.9063
balusters)
ee 0.2500 "0 0.5938 "32 0.9063
= Angle brackets
er 0.2813 Ye 0.6250 ei a0.9375
w 4d, 8d, and 10d nails
m Adhesive e032) 2Va0 0165637 1 9729) 0.9688
m Screws, lag screws, carriage Yao 0.3438 VAG O67 1.000
bolts, and rail bolts
168
BUILDING STAIRS

used as an example in this chapter,

the total rise is 106% inches.
Calculate the unit rise. The
next step is to calculate the unit
rise, which is the height of one step. Unit Rise
Codes typically mandate that the
maximum step height be 7 inches,
so divide the total rise (1064 inches)
by the legal maximum unit rise
(7° inches):
106.75 + 7.75 = 13.77 y

Round this figure up to 14, the min- Determine the unit rise by dividing For interior stairs, make the unit run
imum number of risers the stairs the total rise by the highest maxi- between 10 and 11 in., with at
will need, since 13 risers would mum unit rise code allows. least a %-in. nosing.
push the unit rise above the legal
maximum. Now, to determine the Other Ceiling Joists
unit rise, divide the total rise by
Stairwell Opening
the number of risers:

106.75 = 14 risers = 7.625 (7% inches)

To meet most codes, this staircase
would require a minimum of
14 risers, each measuring 7% inch-
es. Many people find a 7%-inch step
to be too high, however. A more
comfortable riser height for most
people is 7 inches or even 67 inch-
es. (Consider 6 inches the minimum
for interior stairs.) Try adding an-
other riser or two to the formula:
106.75 + 15 risers = 7.117 (7% inches)
or
Total Run
106.75 = 16 risers = 6.672 (6'%6 inches)
Adding one or two risers makes for
a more comfortable staircase. Before A The total run is the distance covered by the stairs; it equals the unit run multi-
plied by the number of treads.
deciding on the number of risers,
however, you need to calculate the matching tread depth to riser would make for an acceptable and
unit run and total run; then deter- height. Two simple ones are: comfortable stair.
mine whether you have adequate
rise + run = 17 to 18 and Calculate the total run.
headroom and landing space.
rise x run = 70 to 75 Next, multiply the unit run by
Calculate the unit run. the total number of treads to reach
Unit run is the horizontal dis- Using these riser/tread formulas the total run, which is the horizontal
tance from the face of one riser to and the target riser dimensions length of the entire stair. All stairs
the face of the next riser. Codes (7'4 inches and 6'/6 inches), you have one less tread than riser be-
sometimes refer to the unit run as can calculate the acceptable choices cause the bottom landing, in effect,
the tread depth and require a min- for unit run: serves as one tread. So with 15 ris-
imum depth of 9 inches. Again, 66 riser + 11 tread = 17!6 ers, the staircase has 14 treads, and
you don’t have to build your stairs 14 treads multiplied by the 10-inch
66 riser x 11 tread = 73’/6 or
exactly to this dimension; in fact, unit run = 140 inches total run.
10 or 11 inches is a safer depth. 7% riser + 10 tread = 17%
Check landing clearance.
7% riser x 10 tread = 71”
As a rule, deeper treads should You may find that the calculat-
have shorter risers. Carpenters have Because all the results fall within ed total run leaves insufficient room
developed a variety of formulas for the formula targets, either choice for a landing. Building codes may
 169
CALCULATING THE STAIRCASE SIZE

‘ Other Joists
in the Ceiling

Headroom = [Stairwell Length /Unit

Run x Unit Rise] - Floor Thickness

Cantilevered Opening

To make sure that the stairs won’t run into any obstacles for a cantilevered open- Headroom is the vertical distance from
ing, drop a plumb bob and measure the total run plus the landing. the nosing to any obstruction overhead.

require space at both ends of the (while increasing the unit rise), or In the example stairs, the stairwell
stairs so that users have a place to both to make the stairs fit in the is 133 inches long; the unit run is
enter or exit. Typically, the length stairwell space. If you still don’t 10 inches; the unit rise is 7’ inches,
of this space, or landing, equals the have enough room, you'll have to and the floor system thickness
staircase width; if there will be a build a different style of staircase. is 10’A4inches. When plugged into
door at the top of the staircase that the formula, these figures produce
Calculate the headroom.
swings toward the stairs, the land- 84 inches of headroom. Typical
Knowing the staircase layout
ing must be at least as long as the code requirements say that there
also lets you know whether you
door is wide. If you have the space, must be a minimum of 80 inches ONIGIN
SalvlS
can use the stairs and have suffi-
remember that a deeper landing (6 feet 8 inches) of headroom in all
cient headroom. The amount of
allows for moving larger items up parts of the stairway. Again, that
clear space between the stairs and
and down the stairs. minimum figure is not necessar-
the stairwell header is called head-
ily ideal. A 6-foot 5-inch resident
The stairwell opening should have room, and it’s measured vertically
using such a staircase would still
been positioned to allow enough from an imaginary sloped plane
feel compelled to duck a bit. Seven
room for a landing at the top of connecting the nosings of the treads.
feet of headroom is a more com-
the stairs. Use the total run of your On most stairs, the headroom is
fortable minimal target, and it pro-
stairs to determine whether there’s shortest just below the header to the
vides more clearance for moving
enough landing space at the bottom. stairwell, so check the size of your
large objects up and down the stairs.
Drop a plumb bob from the end stairwell opening. Ideally, the total
of the opening where the top of the run should equal the length of the If you find that the headroom is too
stairs will be; mark the floor; and stairwell opening. If the opening is short, you can adjust the rise or
measure out the distance of the total significantly shorter than the stair- run of the stairs or subtract a tread
run plus the width of the staircase way’s total run, you may not have or two to gain a few inches of head-
(for the minimum-size landing). If sufficient headroom. room. Lowering the unit run to
you run into something—a wall, for 9 inches in the example staircase,
To find out exactly how much
instance—before you've spanned for instance, yields 89 inches of
headroom your rise/run relation-
the total run of the staircase plus headroom. If you still don’t have
ship yields, use this formula:
the landing, the stairs may not be enough headroom, consider en-
acceptable by code. Try reducing Headroom = [stairwell length + unit larging the stairwell. (See “Rough
the unit run, the number of treads run x unit rise] - floor thickness Openings in Floor Joists,” page 87.)
170
BUILDING STAIRS

Stringer Layout rate reading. If the top mark is not

within % inch of the finished-floor
Story Pole

With the unit rise and unit run height, you'll need to recalculate
decided, you can start marking the unit rise.
stringers. For stairs up to 40 inches
Calculate the stringer
wide, you'll need three stringers; length. To determine the
wider stairs require additional
length of the lumber needed to make
stringers. You only need to lay the stringers, you need to know the
out one stringer, however. Then
total rise, the total run, and the
you can cut it and use it as a tem- Pythagorean theorem just as in deter-
plate to lay out the others. mining rafter length. (See “Calcu-
Make a story pole. The best lating the Length,” page 125.) Using
way to make sure your dimen- the example stair, the results produce
sions are accurate is to use a story a minimal stringer length of 14 feet
pole. Make this simple device from 8 inches. Dimension lumber is sold
a straight board, preferably a 2x4, in 2-foot increments, so 16-footers
that’s a few inches taller than the would be the shortest you’d want to
total rise. Mark off the story pole in buy. However, a safer length would
exact riser increments (7% inches in be 18-footers, which ensures that
our example). For best results, use you'll have enough room to lay out
dividers set precisely to the unit the stringers. The material should
rise. If you don’t have dividers, have straight grain and no defects.
carefully cut a piece of scrap wood Lay out with a framing
exactly 7'4 inches long to use as a square. Laying out stairs is
spacer block, or simply use a mea- similar to stepping off a rafter. (See
suring tape. Start from the bottom “Stepping off the Length,” page
of the board and mark off the num- 127.) Set one stair button so the
ber of risers in the stairs. Set the outside edge of the blade is at the
story pole in the stairwell and check 10-inch mark (for the tread) and
that the top mark aligns with the the other button is on the outside Before you lay out stringers, use a
upper level finished floor. The story edge of the tongue at the 7%-inch story pole to check that the top step
pole must be plumb to get an accu- mark (for the riser). will be even with the upper floor.

A?+B7=C?
VC? =Stringer Length

Sawhorse
Carpenter's Pencil

Plug your stairs’ total rise and total run into the formula above to Use a framing square equipped with a couple of
determine stringer length. (Example: 97(81) + 127(144) = 225. The stair nuts to lay out the first stringer. Set the
square root of 225 is 15, or a 15-ft stringer. 2x12 across a pair of sawhorses.
 171
STAIRCASE INSTALLATION

Sight down the 212s, and lay out

the stringers so that the crown side
Staircase
is up. With the stringer lying flat Installation
across a couple of sawhorses, place
You install the stringers at the top
the square as shown so that its cor-
one riser plus one tread thickness
ner points away from the wood’s
below the level of the finished floor.
crowned edge. Mark along the out-
The outside stringers should be at
side edges of the square, then slide
least 1/2 inches from the edge of the
it down the stringer so that it aligns
framed opening or wall framing.
a —— lh exactly with the previous mark, and
This gap allows plenty of room for
mark the next cutout. Number the
Rough Floor drywall and a skirtboard.
cutouts as you go along.
1 Install the hangerboard.
Drop the stringer. On a fin-
There are several ways to hang
ished floor, you need to short-
the stringers. For indoor stairs,
en the bottom of the stringer by the
usually the best choice is to nail
thickness of one tread; otherwise,
the stringers to a hangerboard, a
the bottom tread will be too high
piece of /%-inch plywood that you
from the floor and the top tread
nail to the upper framing. Cut
will be too high for the floor above.
the hangerboard two risers wide
Set a scrap piece of tread stock
(about 14 inches) and long enough
along the bottom cutoff line on
to fit in the rough opening. Use 8d
the stringer and draw another
common nails to secure the hanger-
line. Cut the stringer at this line.
board to the header.
Cut the stringers. With the Lay out the hangerboard.
master stringer laid out, cut it
Measure down from the fin-
following the same technique as
ished floor surface one unit rise
that used for cutting rafter bird’s
(74 inches in our example) plus the
mouths. (See “Making the Bird’s-
thickness of the tread (14 inches), Ww
Mouth, Ridge, and Tail Cuts,” page Se
and make a mark on the hanger- =
129.) You can then use the stringer 2
board. Then use a 24-inch level to
to lay out the other stringers. Zz
draw a level line at this mark across )
Set the stringer in the stairwell n
—
es ——
with the top of the stringer one a7
After the stringer has been laid out, riser plus one tread thickness nN
trim one tread thickness from the
below the finished floor surface.
bottom.
Place a 24-inch level on the tread
cutouts to make sure they are at
or close to level, and make sure
there’s enough landing space at
the bottom of the stairs. Adjust the
stringer up and down slightly until
it rests flat against the floor and
upper framing. If the bottom does
not rest properly on the rough or
finished floor, trim or shim accord-
ingly, but verify the height of the
first tread and check for level both
the width and length of the tread.
Using the stringer you just cut as a
Plywood
template, lay it directly on top of Hangerboard
another 212, and ensure that the
edges are perfectly aligned. Be sure Use 8d nails to fasten a %-in. ply-
that any crown in the 2x12 will be wood hangerboard to the stairwell

5 Use the first stringer as a template along the cut edge. Mark and cut header as a nailing surface for the
to lay out the other stringers. out the remaining stringers. stringers.
172
BUILDING STAIRS

the hangerboard. You'll install the

stringers along this horizontal line.

Install the stringers. At-

tach each stringer along the lay-
out line with a single 10d common
nail, and check the fit. If there’s not
enough room for nailing through
the back side of the hangerboard
and into the stringers, use metal
angle brackets to attach the stringers
to the hangerboard. The stringers
should lie flat against the hanger-
board and bear fully on the floor.
Place a level across the stringers
at each step. If you find a stringer
slightly out of alignment, try shim-
ming the bottom. When the stringers Measure down from the rough floor the combined distance of the finished floor
are plumb and level, finish nailing. surface, one unit rise, plus one tread thickness.

s
|
ave _ TIGHT-FIT Layout Line
yno™ = TREADS AND Angle Bracket
ase = RISERS

Make a measuring jig for stair

treads and risers, and you'll get
tightfitting parts without looking
ata ruler. Cut three slots in a
1x4 as shown, and attach two
2-inch plywood end pieces with
1%-inch long machine screws,
washers, and wing nuts. Adjust
the panels when you come to
each riser or tread width—even
if it’s out of square—and you'll
have an exact template from
which to cut your riser and tread
pieces for a snug fit.

Stringer Nailed
to Wall Framing

With the stringers on the layout line, drive nails through the back of the hanger-
board into each stringer (top). Nail an outer stringer either to the wall framing
(bottom left) or to a 2x4 spacer (bottom right).
 173
STAIRCASE INSTALLATION

If you have a wall on one or both and then draw lines on the studs adding a kickboard, cut a 2x4 to
sides, you can nail the stringers to along the bottom of the stringer. length, and then slip it into notches
the wall framing for a solid connec- Nail a 2x4 to the studs along this cut into the stringers and secure it
tion. If you plan to add drywall and line, and then attach the stringer to to the floor. Alternatively, you can
a skirtboard or another surface ma- it. This method creates a stronger screw metal angle brackets to the
terial, however, this method would connection and leaves a space for floor and stringers.
force you to notch the material to you to slip in drywall and a skirt-
f Install the skirtboard. A
fit around the stairs. A better solu- board. The treads and risers will
w® skirtboard isa length of hard-
tion is to install the stringer away cover the gap.
wood or softwood stock—typically
from the wall framing. Leave a Anchor the bottom. Align 1x12— that’s installed on the wall
space wide enough for the wall cov- “* the stringers so that they are side of the stairs. Although a skirt-
ering. A 2x4 makes a good spacer. square to the stairwell header, and board isn’t a necessity, it provides
First, set the stringer in place tem- space them at the bottom to match protection for the drywall and
porarily, resting against the wall, the spacing at the top. If you are gives the stairs a finished look. Use
a framing square to lay out cut
lines at the bottom and top of the
skirtboard, then nail the board to
the stringer or the wall framing.

Cut and install treads

’and risers. Rip 1x8 lumber
to 7’% inches for the risers. Rip the
bottom riser narrower than the oth-
ers by the thickness of one tread.
Crosscut and install the risers first.
Metal.Bracket
Then install the treads. Use 8d
finishing nails or 24-inch drywall
screws, driving three into each
stringer. The treads on a closed-
w
riser staircase must have a nosing
Ss
between 4 and 1% inches. You can
buy hardwood treads with pre-
g
~~ 2x4 Kickboard Ze
milled nosings from lumberyards )
nN
and home centers. For a more se- 4H
os
bs
cure connection, spread construc-

4
7

For a wood Heck cut in a kickboard; fasten it to the stringers; and nail it to the tion adhesive along the mating Nn

floor. Or you can use angle brackets (inset). surfaces, and then fasten the parts.

Treads
Adhesive for
Riser

Optional
Screws

Cut a 1x12 skirtboard, and install it between the stairs Glue and screw the treads and 1x8 risers (ripped to
and a wall for a more finished look. width) to the stringers.
174
BUILDING STAIRS

Balustrades Establishing the Installing Newels

Balustrade Centerline With the balustrade centerline de-
A balustrade, which is an assembly
If you want to build a balustrade termined, you can calculate where
made up of a handrail and balus-
system with balusters set in the to locate the newels. The aim is to
ters, can be the most prominent and
treads, you first must establish the center each newel on the centerline.
aesthetically significant feature of a
balustrade centerline. This is noth- With the handrail centered over
stair. Balustrades also serve an im-
ing more than a line along which the balusters, this ensures that the
portant safety function, providing
you'll locate all of the components. handrail will fall in the center of
both a graspable handrail to steady
the newel.
the user and a blockade on an open There are no hard and fast rules
staircase to prevent a fall over the about where exactly to locate the 1 Lay out the newels. Use
side. There are two principal types of balustrade centerline, but there are the centerline to determine
balustrades: post-to-post and over- where to notch the newel. Some
a few general rules of thumb. Begin
the-post. The stairs in this chapter newels require a notch on one face
with the location of the balusters
use a post-to-post railing, in which only; others must fit around the
on the treads. Balusters typically
the handrail is cut to fit between corner of a tread. The illustrations
align on the side with the face of
newel posts and all of the sections give general guidelines for calcu-
the stringer or skirtboard. Thus,
of handrail are straight. Although lating the notch on a newel that
the balustrade centerline is located
many homeowners favor the flow- rests on the subfloor.
exactly half the width of a baluster
ing appearance of an over-the-post
away from the face of the stringer Cut the notches. You can
balustrade, fabricating one from
or skirtboard. Mark the centerline cut a simple side notch using
scratch is difficult even for experi-
enced stair builders. If your heart is in pencil on each tread. a circular saw and chisel. With the
set on an over-the-post balustrade, depth of the saw blade set to the
Codes require at least 32 inches
consider buying and installing a depth of the notch, make a series
of clearance at the handrail ona
prefabricated system. of cuts. Then clean out the notch
36-inch-wide stair, but be sure to
with a chisel.
check the requirements in your
area. Check the clearance after Cut a corner notch with a router
you establish the centerline, keep- fitted with a straight bit. You need
ing in mind that half the width to rout on two sides and then clean
of the handrail extends beyond out the corners with a chisel. If the
the centerline. bit isn’t long enough to excavate

Balustrade
Centerline

Return Molding

This surface
rests against
the stringer
Height from | or skirtboard.
Top of Tread ,
to Subfloor | Height from Top
| of Tread to Subfloor

Cut notch with

a router.

Establishing the Balustrade Use the balustrade centerline to determine the location of the newel and where
Centerline. The balustrade centerline to notch the newel so that it will fit over the tread. Cut the tread nosing notches
locates the midpoint of the railing. using a router; you can use a chisel to make short work of the rest of the notch.
 BALUSTRADES

the entire depth of the notch, chisel

out the excess wood, as shown. To
guide the router in a straight line,
use an edge guide if you've got
one or clamp down some straight
boards to guide the router.
Attach the newel to a
stringer. Bolts make the
strongest connection for attach-
ing a newel firmly to a stringer.
If you want to hide the bottom of
the newel, notch it and install it
on the inside of the stringer after
installing the skirtboard and mor-
tising the tread.
The more common approach is to
notch the newel to fit around the
corner of the bottom or top tread,
which may have to be notched as
well to accept the newel. In this Use a circular saw and chisel to cut a side notch (top left). Use a router to cut a
case, the bottom of the newel will corner notch. Clamp straight boards to guide the router (right). Square the cor-
be visible. Drive carriage bolts or ners with a chisel (bottom left).
lag screws through the post on two Skirtboard
sides. Make sure the newel post is
plumb on two adjacent sides before Stringer
—- 5kirtboard
tightening the fasteners. Counter-
sink the holes, if you like, and then
cover the bolt heads with wood
plugs. Sometimes you can also just
attach the top newel post to the
upper floor wall. L S
Countersunk Carriage Bolts
_

cl
ONIGIN
SaIVLS
—
Handrails come in a variety of
shapes and sizes. You can buy a
manufactured handrail and cut it
to length or make your own, but
remember that the handrail serves
one principal function: it gives you
Bottom of Newel
something to grasp when climbing Post Hidden
Bottom of Newel
or descending the stairs. If you can’t Post Exposed
grip the handrail, it can’t do its job,
which is why codes give specific in- Notch the newel to fit over the outside of the stringer and tread (left) or over the
structions on the size and shape of inside of the stringer (right), and fasten it.

Installing a Handrail. Handrails come in a wide variety of styles and can be purchased with a flat or a dadoed (plowed) bottom.
176
BUILDING STAIRS

the handrail. A round handrail with you must set rails 30 to 38 inches Fasten the handrail to the
a diameter between 1'4and 2 inches above the tread nosing. newels. There are several
is the most effective style and di- ways to attach the handrail to the
Establish the angled cut.
mension for grasping. Most build- newel post. The method you use may
Find the angle to cut the ends
ing-supply outlets carry several depend on the style of the handrail
of the handrail. Set a straight board
styles of handrails manufactured you choose. If you are using a hand-
or 48-inch level on the tread nos-
to meet code requirements. rail with a grooved, or plowed, bot-
ings so that it crosses the starting
tom, you can drive two 2-inch wood
For a post-to-post balustrade, you newel post. Set a sliding T-bevel to
screws through the underside of the
fit the handrail between newel the angle formed between the level
handrail into the starting newel post
posts with a butt joint cut at the and the newel post. Transfer the
at the base of the stairs. The baluster
angle of the slope of the stairs. setting on the bevel to a miter box,
fillets will cover the holes.
Attach the handrail to the new- chop saw, or table saw, and then
els with rail bolts. The height at make the bottom cut. Another method uses rail bolts. A
which you should fasten the rail rail bolt has machine-screw threads
Cut the handrails to length.
depends on local codes; usually, on one end and lag-screw threads
Lay the rail along the tread
on the other. With the handrail
nosings flush with the starting
temporarily clamped in place, drill
Newel Post newel. Scribe the length of the
a pilot hole through the handrail
handrail at the upper newel, and
2 inches deep into the newel post for
Sliding T-Bevel then cut the rail. Bear in mind that
the bolt. Then drill a clearance hole
this method will work only if both
through the handrail and a 1-inch-
newel posts are exactly plumb; if
deep countersink hole to fit the
they aren't, cut the handrail a little
rail-bolt washer. Remove the hand-
long, and trim it for a good fit.
rail, and screw the lag-screw end of
Establish the handrail the rail bolt into the newel post. This
height. The height of the hand- will be easier if you spin a couple of
rail, measured vertically from the nuts on the machine-thread end and
nosing of the treads, is established by use a wrench to grip the nuts and
code. The minimum in most cases is thread the bolt in. Remove the nuts;
30 inches, and the maximum is 34 to slip the handrail over the rail bolt;
38 inches. Clamp a piece of wood on insert the washer and nut; and tight-
1 Find the angle of the stairs using a the newel post to hold the handrail at en the nut. You can cover the access
level and a sliding T-bevel. the appropriate height. hole with a wood plug.

Scribing Top End of Handrail

against Newel Post

Measuring Tape

Use the newels, rather than a measuring tape, to deter- Temporarily clamp a piece of wood on the newel to hold
mine the length of the handrail. the handrail at the right height.
 177.
BALUSTRADES

HOE

FAG
NG 2 ss We hey
petepodse
pees eS ae i af
Fasten a handrail to the newel s with wood screws or lag screws. Plug the holes, and sand them smoo th. Or drill an access
hole and pilot hole and install a rail bolt, slipping the handrail over the machine-thread end.

Or attach the top end of the handrail to brackets that you’ve recess or chamfer on the baluster are
handrail using lag screws through fastened to the wall. You must an equal distance from the tread at
the bottom, or screws or a lag screw secure the brackets using screws the bottom but follow the slope of
through the top. Plug the holes. long enough to penetrate at least the handrail at the top.
halfway into the wall studs or block-
Installing Wall Rails ing. With the brackets in place, cut Flowed Handrail
the handrail to length and attach it
In an enclosed stairwell (walls on to the brackets with screws.
both sides of the stairs), you need
only attach a rail to the wall. Build-
ing codes establish the height of the
Installing Balusters
wall rail, usually the same as bal- Balusters, sometimes called spin-
uster handrails: between 30 and dles, aren't just pretty to look at;
38 inches. Also, you must main- they also support the handrail and
tain a space of at least 1/2 inches fill the gap between the handrail
between the rail and wall. and treads. Building codes regu-
late the gap size permitted between Square-Top
The easiest method for install- Balusters
balusters, normally 4 to 6 inches.
ing a wall rail is to attach a stock
This tight spacing not only prevents cl
ONIGII
SalVvlS
a child from falling through the
balustrade, it also is intended to
prevent a small child from slip-
ping his head between balusters.
(A 4-inch gap is much more effec-
tive in this regard.)
Handrail
At one time, experienced stair
builders attached balusters to treads
with dovetail joints, but you rarely
see such labor-intensive joinery in
new construction. Today, manufac-
tured balusters are available with
1-inch wood pins on the base that
fit into holes bored in the treads.
You drill the holes along the balus-
trade centerline. For balusters that
Installing Wall Rails. When attaching you'll attach between treads and a Installing Balusters. Square-top
a handrail to a wall, screw the brackets handrail, note that you'll need two balusters usually require grooved
to the wall, making sure you hit studs or sizes. The baluster at the front of the handrails. Prefabricated balusters often
blocking, and then screw the handrail to tread is shorter than the back balus- have pins that fit into holes in the stair
the brackets. ter. Also note that the ends of any treads.
178
BUILDING STAIRS

Lay out the treads. Having sure that the balusters have equal of the appropriate diameter. Drill
established the balustrade cen- spacing. Make sure that the spac- straight holes.
ing between balusters meets your
terline, you've already done most 3 Cut the balusters to
of the work for laying out the bal- local code. length. Measure the length
uster locations on the treads. On ®) Bore the treads. You must of each baluster in place to ensure
a typical balustrade, each tread 4 drill holes in the treads for the a tight fit at each joint. Hold the
holds two balusters. Align the face premilled balusters with bottom baluster in place, using a level to
of the front baluster with the face pins. Draw straight diagonal lines keep it plumb. Scribe a line across
of the riser beneath it, and center in each baluster outline, and at the the baluster where it intersects the
the back baluster between the ris- intersection of the lines, drill a hole bottom of the handrail, and then
ers. This layout procedure will en- 1 inch deep with a brad-point bit add to this length the depth of the
groove on the handrail.
Fasten the baluster tops.
Toenail the tops of the balus-
ters to the handrail through pilot
holes. If the bottom of the hand-
rail is flat, set the nails and fill the
holes with putty.
On a grooved handrail, you fill the
space between balusters with short
pieces of wood called fillets. Hand-
rail manufacturers make fillet stock
to fit the groove in a plowed hand-
rail, or you can make your own to
match the wood on the handrail and
balusters. Establish the angled end
cuts of the fillets with a sliding T-
bevel; cut them on a table saw or
with a power miter saw; and fas-
The baluster at the front aligns with Bore holes in the treads at the inter- ten them between balusters with
the riser beneath it; center the back section of the diagonal layout lines short finishing nails driven into
baluster between the risers. in the baluster outlines. the handrail.

Fillet to Fill Groove

between Balusters

Countersink nail
using a nail set.

3 Plumb each baluster using a level, 4 Drill pilot holes for 4d finishing nails; toenail the balusters to the handrails; and
wand mark the top for cutting. then install fillets in the empty spaces.
 179
CALCULATING RISE & RUN

About L-Shaped tween finished floors. In this case,

the upper and lower floors will be
down on the amount of measuring
and cutting you will need to do
Stairs finished with identical material (/- later. If a wall limits the amount of
inch hardwood flooring or /-inch space you have to build stairs, see
Even if space isn't a factor, many
carpet). The total rise measures 105 “Limited Total Run,” page 180.
people find L-shaped stairs to be
inches. Divide the total rise by 7”
more appealing than straight-run Calculate the landing
inches (maximum riser height) to
stairs. By turning the corner at 90 height. Divide the total num-
find the minimum number of risers
degrees, the L-shaped staircase ber of risers in half (14 + 2 = 7) be-
the stairway will require. The re-
breaks the direct visual line from cause we have decided to place an
sult is 14 (rounded up from 13/4).
top to bottom. If the landing can be equal number of treads on the
equipped with a small window, the Divide the total rise (105 inches) by upper and lower portion of the
effect will be even more pleasing. 14 risers to find the unit rise (7% stairs. Then multiply the result by
Also, a landing installed midway inches). The stairway could be built the riser height (7 x 7’2 = 52/4). This
between the upper and lower floors with 15 7-inch risers (15 x 7 = 105), establishes that the finished height
provides a convenient rest spot for but using 14 risers allows the land- of the landing should be 52 inch-
those who have difficulty getting ing to be located exactly halfway es. Because the landing will be cov-
up and down stairs. between the floors. As long as ered with “-inch plywood and
you're not constrained by a wall, it's ¥%-inch hardwood, subtract the
The L-shaped stairway with a land- easiest to build the landing halfway combined thickness of these floor-
ing is essentially nothing more than between floors because the ing materials from the landing
two straight-run stairs heading in stringers will then be identical for height to find the framing height
perpendicular directions. In terms both flights of stairs, which will cut (52% =—1% =51 inches).
of calculating dimensions, treat the
landing as just another tread.
The staircase in this chapter is a
closed-riser model, with standard
hardwood tread stock and matching
hardwood risers. The landing can
be covered with “%-inch hardwood
flooring installed over a %-inch ply- °/,' Plywood
wood subfloor. Oak is the most
popular hardwood for stairs, but
°/s" Hardwood Flooring
other woods could be used as well.
If you were building these stairs for
utility purposes, such as building Finished Landing Ci
:sulvis
ONIATI
105"
stairs leading to a basement, and
you wanted to cut costs, you could
use two-by lumber for the treads
and leave out the risers. Be sure to
adjust dimensions to your design
variations.
Landing Height

Calculating
Rise & Run
Treads and risers on an L-shaped
stairway must meet the same mini-
mal requirements as on straight-run
stairs. Another point: it is essential
that tread depth and riser height be
identical on both the upper and As with straightrun stairs, begin To determine the finished height
lower staircase runs. planning an L-shaped staircase by of a landing located halfway be-
finding the total rise. Be sure that your tween floors, divide the total number of
Calculate the rise. The total measurement is from finished floor to fin- risers in half and multiply the result by
rise is the vertical distance be- ished floor. the unit rise.
BUILDING STAIRS

Determine the landing

size. When construction is
complete, the finished landing on
an L-shaped staircase should be
square, with the sides equal to the
width of the treads, which in this
case is 36 inches. However, be-
cause the stringers for the upper
section will rest on the landing,
you need to frame the landing
larger than its finished size. Build a
rectangular platform during rough
framing as shown left. The side of
the frame to which the lower
stringers will be attached should
be built about 1 unit run longer
than the other side, which will be
framed to the length of the treads.
In this case, the frame measures 36
inches by 46 inches because the
3 Because stringers to the upper stairway rest on the landing, the framed platform unit run is 10 inches, as described
must be larger than the finished landing surface. in Step 4, opposite.

LIMITED TOTAL RUN’ ee ntti = ———— — _ = ee

|

Sometimes, you need to install an L-shaped staircase ished floor. Measure down from the upper finished
because there isn’t enough space for straightrun floor 45 inches, and use a level and straightedge,
stairs. Maybe the stairs face a wall, or maybe a line level, or water level to transfer this height to the
straightrun would extend into a hallway. In any landing area. Then build the landing as described in
event, the problem you face is that the total run is too — “Framing the Landing,” opposite.
short to put in straightrun stairs. So you need a land-
ing for an L-shaped stairway, and the landing must be
built in a particular spot, whether it's against a wall
opposite the stairwell header or flush with a wall on
one side of a hallway. Because the landing’s location
is fixed, its height wilbe determined by the number
of steps needed to reach it.
First, figure out the total rise and the unit rise. For this
example, 105 inches of total rise yields 7 inches of
unit rise. Then measure the total run available for the
upper staircase. You must subtract the size of the
landing from the total run, and then occupy the left- S 16!
<<

over space with treads. || ||| 2x4 Ledger

36" >
If the total run for the upper staircase is 86 inches, for 2x12 Stringer
example, and the stairs are 36 inches wide, then the
finished landing will be 36 inches square, and the
space you have left over is 50 inches. If you will use
a hangerboard to connect the stringers to the header,
subtract ¥/ inch from the total run. You need to fill the
50-inch space with treads. Having already deter- Double 2x4
mined that the unit rise will be 7’ inches, you must Corner Studs
find a unit run that will fill the space and fall within
the limitations set by the run-to-rise formulas. In this
case, five 10-inch-deep treads work out perfectly. Be-
cause there's always one more riser than tread, you'll
need six risers, each 7/2 inches high, putting the fin-
ished landing surface 45 inches below the upper fin-
 181
FRAMING THE LANDING

Find the run. To determine */;" Plywood Subfloor

the unit run, use the run-to-
GO"
rise formulas explained on page
168: 15" x */s" Hangerboard

unit rise + unit run = 17-18

unit rise x unit run = 70-75

Stairwell
By applying the unit rise (74 inch- Header
es) to these formulas, you will find
that 10 inches is a good unit run.
Next, find the total run for the
upper stairs. Because there are
seven risers, there will be six treads.
Multiply the number of treads by
the tread depth to find the total run
(6 x 10 = 60 inches). The bottom
riser will be located 60 inches from
the hangerboard, measured hori-
zontally. Use the same dimensions
for the lower flight of stairs.
4 Use the run-to-rise formulas to determine acceptable tread and riser dimensions
for upper and lower stairs. Then multiply the unit run by the number of treads to
Framing the determine the total run and the landing location.

Landing
Typically, a landing on an L-shaped
staircase is encased by walls on two
sides. Joists for these sides can be
nailed directly to the wall studs.
The other two sides of the landing
need to be framed using standard
2x4 framing techniques.

If the walls are covered with dry- Cc

|SuIVLS
ONIGI
wall, you need to locate the wall
studs so that the joists can be
nailed to them. If necessary, the
entire landing can be set on three
framed walls (if only one side
abuts a wall) or four framed walls
in case no side abuts a wall. If your
landing is a different size from the
example in this chapter, be sure
that the studs and joists in the
framing are located 16 inches on
center.

Attach joists to the wall.

Mark the height of the landing
framing (51 inches) on one wall stud;
then use a level to mark the rest of
the studs. Nail a 46-inch-long 2x10
joist to the studs, even with the lay-
out marks. Then nail a 33-inch-long
joist at the same height on the adja- 1 With 12d common nails, attach 2x10 joists to the wall studs so that the finished
cent wall. floor will be at the proper height. Make sure the joists are perfectly level.
182
BUILDING STAIRS

Frame the landing walls.

2x10 Nailed to Studs in Wall
The short walls that support
the landing are framed like nor-
mal stud walls, with a bottom
plate and a double top plate.
Measure the distance from the
floor to the bottom edge of the
joists. If you used 2x10s at a 51-
inch height, the distance should
be 41% inches, but measure to be
sure. This is the height of the
landing wall.

Now subtract 4% inches from this

figure (the thickness of the three
plates) to find the stud length (38%
inches here). Cut eight 24s to this
length. Attach studs to the bottom
and top plates as shown, spaced no
more than 16 inches apart.
Cut to length the two double top
plates (424 inches and 36 inches),
then attach them to the top plates
using 8d nails. The double top
plate on the short wall should over-
lap the end of the wall 3% inches;
the double top plate on the long
wall should stop 3% inches from
the end of the wall. Fit each wall
under the end of the perimeter joist
Build the walls for the landing with 2x4s spaced 16 in. on center. A double top as shown, and secure the walls to
plate ties the adjoining walls together, and 2x10 joists bear on the top plates. the house framing and floor. Make
sure the landing frame is square
with the adjacent walls; then use
*/;'' Plywood Subfloor 10d nails to fasten the landing
walls together through the top
plates and the corner joists.
Attach the other two perimeter
joists along the tops of the landing
walls. Toenail the joists to the top
plate. Measure the distance be-
tween the joists (43 inches here).
Cut and install the intermediate
oi joist with joist hangers.
Install the landing sub-
floor. Cut a piece of %-inch
plywood that is flush with the land-
ing on three sides and overhangs
the long side by % inch. The over-
hang will cover the hangerboard.
Notch the overhang so that it ex-
tends only as far as the outside
stringer, as shown. Apply construc-
tion adhesive on the joist tops be-
The plywood subfloor overhangs a part of the landing % in. to cover the hang- fore using 8d common nails to
erboard. Glue and nail the subfloor to the joists. fasten the subfloor to the joists.
 183
MAKING THE STRINGERS

Making the shortened by the thickness of a

tread minus the thickness of the fin-
inch from the bottom of each of the
stringers.
Stringers ished flooring. The treads on this
In some cases, the stringers must be
staircase will be %-inch hardwood,
You need to make a total of six which is 1% inches thick, and the dropped different amounts, such as
stringers. If your landing is located flooring will be % inch thick. The when the bottom rests of a slab
exactly midway between the upper difference between the two mater- floor. In these cases, you will need
and lower floors (as in this exam- ials is % inch. Cut along a line % to make two templates.
ple), and you will use the same
flooring material for both floors and
the landing, then all stringers will
be identical. Lay out and cut one
stringer, then use it asa template to A*+B?=C?
lay out the others. VC =Stringer Length

Choose the stringer stock.

The stringers are made with
2x12 stock. To determine the mini-
mum length for each one, use the
Pythagorean theorem and the fig-
ures for total rise and total run on
each section, as shown. Be sure to
add one unit run to the total run in
your calculations. Or you could
convert the total rise and run to
feet, and using the scale 1 foot
equals 1 inch, mark these points on
a framing square. Then measure
the distance between these points
to find the length of the stringers.
<< a (Total Run + One Unit Run) > |
Lay out and cut the
stringers. Use a framing | Use the formula above to determine the length of stringer stock you need. Use
only straight, solid boards for stringers.
square to lay out the stringers. Set
a stair button on the outside edge
of the blade to the unit run (10
cl
ONIGI
SalVLS
inches) and another on the tongue
to the unit rise (7/4 inches).
With the stringer lying flat, place
the square as shown, with the cor-
ner resting on the lumber. Mark
along the outside edges of the fram-
ing square. Slide the square down
the stringer so that it aligns exactly
with the previous mark; then lay
out the next cutout. Extend the top
rise line to the bottom of the
stringer. This will mark your
plumb-cut line.
Drop the stringer. Usually,
“dropping the stringer” means */,"" Hardwood */s'' Plywood
trimming the thickness of a tread Floor Subfloor
from the bottom of the stringer. In
this case, however, the tread stock Place the 2x12s on a pair of Remember to “drop the stringer.” If
is thicker than the hardwood floor- sawhorses, and after attaching stair the flooring is not yet in place, cal-
ing, which is not yet in place. So the buttons to a framing square at the unit culate the difference in thickness be-
bottoms of the stringers need to be run and unit rise, lay out the stringer. tween the treads and the flooring.
y
BUILDING STAIRS

\ a |

Use a circular saw to cut up to the intersections of the riser and tread lines; then Cut notches in the stringers for the
finish the cuts with a handsaw. 2xA kickboard.

Cut the stringer. Use a circu- high (about 15 inches) and wide hangerboards securely to the joists.
lar saw to cut the stringer up enough to span the stairwell open- Think about the finished ceiling
to the junction of the rise and run ing at the top of the stairs. The bot- now. If the hangerboard will inter-
layout lines. Finish cutting with a tom hangerboard should be just fere with the ceiling drywall, trim
handsaw. Use the cut-out stringer wide enough to provide a nailing the hangerboard so that it will be
as a template to lay out the others. surface for the outer stringers. Use flush with the bottom edges of the
8d common nails to nail the stringers.
Cut notches for the kick-
boards. The bottom of the */:'' Hardwood IB UxtOO peae
stringers will rest on 2x4 kick- Flooring Hangerboard
boards to anchor them to the lower
floor and the landing. Use a piece
of scrap 2x4 to lay out the notches
on each stringer. Cut out the notch- 2x10
Header
es with a handsaw or electric saw.
Upper Level

Assembling
the Stairs
The stringers are installed one riser
plus one tread thickness below the
finished flooring of both the land-
ing and the upper floor. The
stringers will be attached to hanger-
boards at the top and a kickboard at
the bottom.

} Install the hangerboards.

A hangerboard is a piece of /-
inch plywood that is nailed to the 1 Use 8d common nails to fasten the hangerboards to the stairwell header and
stairwell header and the landing. landing. If necessary, trim the top hangerboard to be flush with the bottom edge
Cut both hangerboards two risers of the stringers.
 18 5
ASSEMBLING THE STAIRS

Plywood
Hangerboard
Vs" Tread

Hangerboard ||

|
|

Layout Line

With a single nail, attach each

stringer along the layout line.
Check that the stringers are level and
straight before you finish nailing.

Set the stringers. On each

hangerboard, measure down
from the finished floor surface one
unit rise (7 inches in our exam-
ple) plus the thickness of the tread
(1% inches here), and mark a lay-
out line on the hangerboard.
Attach each stringer along the lay-
out line with a single nail; then
check the fit. The stringers should
lie flat against the hangerboard and
be perfectly level with the floor.
Place a level across the stringers at
each step. If you find one stringer At a wall, attach a stringer to a 2x4 nailed to the wall. The gap created by the
slightly out of alignment, shim the 2x4 provides space for a skirtboard and drywall. cl
;ONIGI
SaIVLS
—
bottom level with the others.
Attach the stringers. If you
Attach spacers to the have access to the back of the
walls. If you have a wall on hangerboard, drive 12d nails
one or both sides, you can nail the through the back of the hanger-
stringers directly to the wall fram- board into the stringers. If the
ing. If you plan to add drywall and framing on the landing prevents
a skirtboard, however, leave a
this, attach the stringers to the
space wide enough for both be- hangerboards with metal angle
tween the wall and the stringer. brackets. Attach the middle
Use a 2x4 spacer for this purpose. stringer so that it is centered be- Hangerboard
Position the stringer even with the tween the outside stringers.
layout line on the hangerboard. Framing
Check that the stringer butts tightly Make sure the stringers are square Anchor
against both the hangerboard and to the landing and the stairwell
the floor. Then mark the bottom framing and that they're properly
edge of the stringer on the wall, spaced at the bottom. To hold them 4 Drive 12d nails through the back of
and cut a 2x4 to fit along this line. in place, cut a 2x4 kickboard to a hangerboard to fasten the
Remove the stringer; spike the 2x4 length, slip it into the notches in the stringers, or use metal framing anchors.
spacer to the wall with 16d nails; stringers, and then secure the kick- Insert the kickboards into the notches at
then reset the stringer; and nail it to board to the floor and the stringers the bottoms of the stringers, and nail
the 2x4 spacer with 16d nails. to the kickboard. everything together.
186
BUILDING STAIRS

Finishing Construction
the Stairs Adhesive

The stairs shown here have been

designed to take 1%-inch hardwood
treads, which are cut from standard
tread stock available at lumber-
yards and building-supply outlets.
Usually, the nosing on the tread
stock is already rounded over, but
you need to cut the boards to the
right length and width before in-
stalling them. The risers and skirt-
board could be made from the same
type of wood, using “%-inch boards.
Cut and install the treads
and risers. To minimize
squeaks, the treads should be at-
tached to the stringers with screws
and construction adhesive spread
along all mating surfaces. Drill
pilot holes before driving screws. Route edge to
Attach risers using 6d nails and match nosing.
construction adhesive. Use wood
Attach treads and risers with con-
screws to fasten the bottoms of the
struction adhesive, screws, and
risers to the back edges of the nails to help prevent squeaking stairs.
treads, too. If you are using hard- Drill pilot and countersink holes, and
wood treads and risers, counter- cover them with wood plugs. If the
sink the screws, and cover them treads will overhang the sides of the
with wood plugs that match the stairs, shape the tread ends with a
tread stock. On the risers, use a roundover bit in a router.
nail set to drive the heads of the
nails below the surface, then plug The easiest way to get a perfect fit
the holes with matching putty. against a skirtboard is to position
Sand or plane the surfaces flush. the riser or tread tightly against the
skirtboard, and then use a compass
The treads must be at least 36 inch-
to scribe the exact shape of the
es wide. If you are using hardwood
skirtboard on the end of the tread.
tread stock and you want the treads
If you need to install a skirtboard
to overhang the side a bit, you
on an open side, use a framing
might want to shape the tread ends
square to lay out cut lines at the
to match the rounded nosing. Use a
bottom and top, and then nail the
router fitted with a roundover bit to
skirtboard to the stringer.
shape the ends, as shown. You will
need to round over both the top The treads on a closed-riser stair-
and bottom. case must have a nosing between %
inch and 1% inch.
Cut and install the bottom riser
first. It must be ripped to match Attach the angle blocks.
the height of the stringer. Note that Another way to prevent
it is narrower than the other risers squeaky stairs is to install angle
by the thickness of a tread. Then blocks. Cut the triangular blocks
cut and install the second riser be- out of scrap two-by lumber, and
fore installing the first tread. Install attach them with adhesive and
the third riser, followed by the sec- nails to the underside of the stairs Glue and nail triangular angle
ond tread, and continue up the where the tread meets the riser. blocks under the treads and risers
stairway. Attach two or three to each step. to keep them from squeaking.
 187
BUILDING A BASIC WINDER

described on pages 179 to 186. Be

Winder Pros Some codes additionally stipulate
that the minimum width of treads sure to read those pages carefully
& Cons be no less than 6 inches at any before attempting to build a
point. A continuous handrail is re- winder.
Winders are not as safe as straight-
quired along the side with the nar-
run stairs or stairs with a landing. You need to frame a landing and
rower treads. Be sure to check your build two sets of stringers. The dif-
Use a winder only if you have no
local code carefully.
other choice. For one thing, the ir- ferences here are that one set of
regularly shaped treads present a Saving Space. A winder intro- stringers is reduced by two treads,
hazard. An important component duces a shortcut in the line of trav- whose place will be taken by the
of stairway safety is ensuring that el, similar to cutting across a corner two winder steps you will install on
the movement from step to step is lot rather than following the side- top of the landing. Also, the upper
routine and repetitive. By their walk. The reduced impact on the stringers won't rest on the landing.
nature, winders require users to floor plan is most apparent when Instead, they are hung with joist
adjust their routine as they move the winder treads come to a point, hangers off the side of the top
around the corner. Also, users who as shown in the drawing. When winder step. This allows you to
try to climb the stairs using the nar- space is too limited even for a build a smaller frame.
row section of the winder may find winder, you may have to consider Build the landing. Two
insufficient support for their feet. spiral stairs. sides of the 36-inch by 36-inch
Finally, while a landing is likely to landing rest on short framed walls.
break a fall down the stairs, winder
The joists for the other two sides
stairs would not. Building a are attached directly to the house
Restrictions. Winders are often Basic Winder framing. If your landing is free-
closely regulated by codes. In some standing (that is, not adjacent to
areas you may not be allowed to As with all stairs, you need to find walls), you can frame short walls
build a winder as the main stairway the total rise, then calculate a com- to support the other two sides. In
in a house. Many codes won't allow fortable unit rise and unit run. To il- the example stairs, the landing
winders in which the treads come to lustrate better the differences serves as the fifth tread from the
a point. Instead, treads are required between stairs with winders and bottom, and the total height of the
to be at least 10 inches deep along stairs with a landing, the instruc- landing is 37% inches (using a unit
the “line of travel,” usually defined tions below will assume the same rise of 7’ inches). Use construction
as the line running 12 inches from total rise (105 inches) and number adhesive and 8d common nails to
the narrow edge of the treads. of risers (14) as the L-shaped stairs install the landing subfloor.

Cc
|ONIGII
SalVLS

Zu
Walls Removed
for Clarity

Saving Space. A winder staircase is more compact than L- | In framing winders, the 36-in.-square landing rests on two
shaped stairs because the landing is replaced by three pie- framed walls for support. The other two sides are attached
shaped treads, called winders. to the house framing.
188
BUILDING STAIRS

J Lay out the winders. Use a ing, as shown. Measure in from Note that this 18%4-inch dimension
36 x 36-inch piece of “-inch each corner 18% inches, and mark is good only on a 36 x 36-inch land-
plywood to lay out the winders. these spots on the diagonal line. ing. For other sizes, you can experi-
Lay out three treads so that the Then draw a line from the inside ment with the layout until the tread
tread width along the line of travel corner of the plywood through width along the line of travel is
(usually 12 inches from the narrow each of the two marks. This divides equal from step to step.
end of the treads) is equal on each the plywood into three pie-shaped Cut the treads. Cut out one
tread. An easy way to ensure this is wedges. Each wedge serves as a of the treads. This piece will
to draw a diagonal line on the land- layout for one tread. be the top tread, and the remaining
two-thirds piece will be the middle
tread. The landing itself will serve
as the bottom tread.
Wall Side
~ 46" Build the winders. You
need to build frames for the
top two steps of the three-step
| winder. The unit rise on this exam-
ple staircase is 72 inches. From this
dimension, subtract the thickness
of the plywood treads (”% inch). The
result, 6% inches, is the height of
&Wall
Side each frame. Rip several 28s to 6%
inches, then cut and assemble the
frames using 10d nails.

Assemble the winder.

re Keeping the sides flush, toe-
Layout Line <2 |Middle Tread nail the larger of the two frames to
(Do not cut.) the landing using 8d ring-shank
Draw a diagonal line and measure Cut as shown above. The smaller nails for extra holding power. Then
18% in. from each corner. Then piece will be the top tread; the nail the larger plywood tread to
draw lines from an adjacent corner larger piece will be the middle tread; the frame. Finally, fasten the small-
through the 18%-in. marks just made. and the landing will be the bottom tread. er riser frame and tread.

Tread Nailed to Frame

Ends Beveled 6O° Ends Beveled 30°

Frame Nailed to
Lower Tread

Ends Beveled 120°

2x65 Ripped to 6 */." Ends Beveled 60°

Walls Removed for Clarity

Paar ee ee,
4 Build frames for the top and middle winders using two-by
lumber and 10d nails. The height of each frame plus
Use 8d ring-shank nails to fasten the larger frame and ply-
wood tread to the landing, and the smaller winder to the
tread equals the unit rise. larger one.
 189
ADDING NOSINGS

Adding Nosings
With the winder stairs built and the
stringers cut and attached, you can
Top Winder Tread
(Behind Riser) now cut and install the remaining
treads and risers, using /-inch ply-
wood. If the stairs are going to be
carpeted, you may not have to in-
Joist Hanger
clude a nosing on the treads. This is
often determined by the local build-
ing code, so check the code for
building requirements.

If you need to add a nosing for car-

peted stairs, cut the treads ac-
cordingly. Because you can’t use a
router on the plywood winder
treads, you can add nosings to the
winder treads by installing half-
Hangerboard round molding, which is available
in a variety of sizes. Cut the mold-
Use joist hangers or framing anchors to attach the stringers to the upper winder ing to the width of the tread; apply
and hangerboards for the tops of the stringers. construction adhesive or glue to the
mating surfaces of the molding and
Install the stringers. The toms so that they can rest in the
the winder; and then drive 4d or 6d
stringers are cut and installed joist hangers. If the end stringers finishing nails through the molding
much like those in the previous are flush with the edge of the plat- and into the winder.
chapter. The one difference is that form, you won't be able to install
the stringers for the upper staircase joist hangers properly. Instead, use If the winder treads are going to be
section do not rest on the platform. framing anchors. covered with hardwood, you don't
Rather, they are hung from the need to worry about the nosing at
back side of the upper riser with You will need to “drop the stringer” this rough stage. Instead, the finish
joist hangers. Do not “drop the on the lower stringers. Both sets of treads—with one edge bullnosed-
stringer” in this case. Instead, clip stringers can be attached at the top for the nosing—can be cut to allow
off a flat edge on the stringer bot- with hangerboards. for the proper overhang.
740
| SYIVLS
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=| Half-Round 2/4" Plywood

| Molding
Tread without Nosing, Hardwood Tread
to be Carpeted

Adding Nosings. Before carpeting the stairs, use halfround molding attached with 4d or 6d finishing nails and construction
: adhesive to create nosings. Hardwood can be installed so that it overhangs the risers.
BUILDING STAIRS

design
ideas for Left Stairs with
landings save

stairs valuable floor

space, and they
provide an ele-
gant touch to
the design of
the entire room.

Above Balustrades can be

as simple or as intricate as
you wish. This unusual design
is a focal point for this room.

Right A simple staircase has

a few distinctive touches to
make it more appealing, such
as the matching treads and
railing and the unusual treat-
ment for the newel post.
 191
DESIGN IDEAS FOR STAIRS

alli

Above A winder staircase makes an elegant

addition to this room.Windows along a stair or on
a landing usually flood both floors with light.

Above right Distinctive newel posts and balusters

are available from home centers, lumber yards, and
custom woodworking shops.

Right Treat a stair as the architectural detail it is.

Here a distinctive Arts and Crafts-style stair ties the
designs of the two floors together.
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U sing steel studs to convert

an unfinished basement to
useable living space is a practical
solution for families with space
problems. While you could use
wood to accomplish the same
goal, steel does have advantages
over wood. Every component of
a steel framing system is the
same as the other components, there is no shrinking or
warping. Steel is resistant to rot, and it is fireproof.
Assuming the basement is dry and does not have leakage
problems, divide the project into five tasks: furring or
building stud walls that face on masonry walls, building
stud partition walls that divide interior space, installing a
ceiling, installing a floor, and concealing pipes, ducts,
beams, and columns. Here’s how to finish a basement
using steel framing.
 193
BASEMENT WALLS

Building Stud is equal to “joo inch. Glue the vapor

Perimeter Walls barrier to the concrete using mastic
paste or construction adhesive.
If you have scaled plans for your Overlap the plastic 6 inches along
Difficulty Level: WA,
the seams.
basement project, you can use them
to estimate materials. If you don’t Tools and Materials Unfortunately, adhesives don’t have
have plans, the easiest course is to m Basic carpentry tools great reliability over time. To ensure
measure the basement area and that the plastic vapor barrier stays in
m Polyethylene vapor barrier
then figure your materials. The bas- place, use furring strips, positioned
ic materials for simple wall framing m Construction adhesive vertically, over the plastic at each
include channel-shaped steel studs, & Steel framing (studs, track, and seam, at each end of the wall, and
U-shaped steel track (for the top and ceiling channel) every 8 feet in between.
bottom plates) in which you place w Metal snips Fasten the strips using at least four
the studs, and low-profile self-tap- fasteners per section. For 1x2 ma-
m Powder-actuated fastener
ping screws with Phillips heads terial use 14-inch masonry nails, oe
|ad
ONIW
LNAWA
for attaching the studs to the tracks. @ Drill and/or screw gun 1-inch concrete screws (first pre-
(Some pros use clinching tools for w /-inch #8 low-profile self-tapping drilling holes using a masonry bit
this.) If you were framing 24 inch- screws loaded in your hammer drill), or
es on center and the basement was 1/-inch nails driven by a powder-
24 feet long, 16 feet wide, and 8 feet Attach a vapor barrier to actuated fastener (PAF). A PAF is a
high, for example, you'd need 13 the masonry. Check the base- special gun that shoots pin-like fas-
studs for each long wall, 9 studs for ment walls for moisture problems, teners into concrete using a .22- or
each short wall, and 160 feet of track and correct them before proceeding. .25-caliber blank cartridge called a
for the top and bottom plates. Mul- Cover the masonry with a 6-mil powder load. Use PAF nails only
tiply total wall length by height and polyethylene vapor barrier. Mil is in concrete or concrete block, not
add 15 percent, and you'd get the re- a thickness rating in which 1 mil cinder block. After you drive the
quired square footage of vapor barri-
er (sheet plastic you apply to keep
moisture that may seep through the
masonry away from the new wall).

Basement Walls
There are two strategies for framing
walls that face onto masonry walls:
attaching wood or steel furring di-
rectly to the masonry or building
stud walls independent of the ma-
sonry walls. The kind of walls you
build depends on two things: the
condition of the masonry and the
amount of insulation you require.
If the masonry walls are flat and in
good shape and you can get by with
“inch rigid foam insulation panel
with an insulating value of about R-
5, you can use furring on masonry.
If the basement walls are irregu-
lar (like stone) or you require more
insulation, build stud walls. You'll
also use stud walls as partition walls,
though you'll build them slightly
differently. The projects that follow Attach a 6-mil vapor barrier to the masonry wall using mastic or construction
entail building steel-stud walls. adhesive and furring strips.
194
BASEMENT FRAMING

Powder-Actuated
Fastener

fh Track Cut with Shears

Cut the bottom track to length, and attach it to the concrete floor using 1-in. fasteners. An easy way to attach the track is to
use a powder-actuated fastener.

first PAF nail, check the nailhead %

to make sure it’s seated well in the aN be AVOIDING
built-in washer. If the head is pro- Kno STEEL-STUD
truding, use a stronger powder . STRIPING
load, each of which is color-coded
Often, vertical stripes appear
for power. One charge doesn’t suit after a while on steel-stud walls.
all walls because concrete density This occurs because steel studs
and strength vary. If you don’t own easily transfer heat, making sur-
a PAF or can’t borrow one, you may
faces in contact with the studs
be able to rent a unit locally. cooler than the rest of the room.
y1 Lay the bottom track. At Dust in the air may stick to the
both ends of each basement cooler surfaces, causing striping.
wall, measure 1 to 6 inches from the To prevent this, install rigid-foam
wall (depending on how much insulation under the drywall.
space you want between the mason- Also, use plywood or 1x2 spac-
ry and the new stud wall), and make ers to bridge the thermal-break
a mark on the floor. You'll need at air space (as mentioned in Step
least a 1-inch space for air circulation 2) and maintain stiffness in the
and to account for any irregularities steel studs, which may not be
in the masonry wall. Now make a sturdy when covered with dry-
second mark 34 inches into the wall on only one side.
room from each of the first marks
and snap a chalk line. (Steel studs
come in sizes from 14 to 54 inches
wide. We’re using 32-inch studs.)
The chalk line will act as a guide for
the inside edge of the bottom track.
Lay the track, and fasten it using 1-
inch concrete screws or a PAF with
1-inch nails. If you need to cut the
track, use metal snips to cut the two
flanges; then bend back the track
and cut the web. Mark the track for
studs 16 or 24 inches on center.
Locate the top track using a plumb
Attach the top track. Use bob, and attach it to the ceiling
a plumb bob to locate the top joists with 1%-in. drywall screws.
 195
BASEMENT WALLS

outside. The vapor barrier on the

stud wall prevents warm, moist air
in the heated living area from mi-
grating through the wall and con-
densing on the insulation when it
meets the cold air in the unheated
area of the basement.

Building Partition Walls

Difficulty Level: @a%,
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
® Steel framing (studs, track, and ¢
|ad
ONIW
LNAWS
ceiling channel)
= Metal snips
mw Powder-actuated fastener
w Drill and/or screw gun
@ /2-inch #8 low-profile self-tapping
screws

] Install the top track. Cut

the top and bottom tracks to the
Attach the wall studs 16 or 24 in. on center using /2-in self-tapping screws. length of the wall you plan to build,
Insulate the walls and apply a vapor barrier. and mark the top one for the posi-
tion of the studs at 16 or 24 inches
track directly over the bottom track. warm side of the stud wall, but it’s on center. Determine where you
Attach the track to the underside of not. The vapor barrier on the mason- want the wall, and attach the top
the ceiling joists with 14-inch dry- ry wall will stop excess moisture track using one screw at each end.
wall screws. If the track runs paral- from migrating into the room from After you’ve double-checked the
lel with the joists, install 1x4 or 1x6
blocking in the joist bays to provide
an attachment surface for the track.
Install the studs. Install metal
studs between the top and bot-
tom tracks 16 or 24 inches on center,
just as with conventional wall fram-
ing. (See “Wall Framing,” page 94.)
Attach the studs with 4-inch self-
tapping screws. These screws have
a shallow head that doesn’t interfere
with installation of drywall. Insu-
late the wall with fiberglass batts by
tucking one side of the batt inside
the open flange of a stud and press-
ing the other side into the wall cav-
ity. Friction should hold the batts

;
in place until you install drywall.
Apply a 6-mil polyethylene vapor
barrier across the studs before you
aiBs
attach the drywall. It might seem ES
like overkill to put a vapor barrier 1 Attach the top track to joists or to blocking nailed between the joists if it runs
on both the masonry wall and the parallel.
196
BASEMENT FRAMING

track position, you'll drive a screw

at each intersecting joist or into
blocking between two joists. Be
sure you can see the stud layout.

Measure with the 3-4-5

triangle. Before you fasten the
track in place, use the 3-4-5 triangle
method (or a proportional version)
to be sure the track is perpendicular:
measure along the intersecting wall
(presumably one of the basement
walls) 3 (or 6) feet from one side of
the partition wall (point A) and
make a mark (point B). Now from
point A, measure 4 (or 8) feet along
the partition wall to point C. If the
partition wall is at a right angle to
the intersecting wall, the diagonal
between point C and point B will be
5 (or 10) feet; if it’s not, move the
partition wall track until the diago-
nal measures correctly.

Locate the bottom track. Use the 3-4-5 triangulation method to be sure that the partition wall is square to
Hang a plumb bob from the the outside walls. For better accuracy, use 6-8-10 ft.
top track in several locations, and
make marks transferring its posi-
tion to the floor. Align the bottom
track with the layout marks you
just made. When the bottom track
is directly below the top, attach it
to the floor. (See “Lay the Bottom
Track,” page 194.) Mark the track
for studs as you did the top track.
Install the studs. Measure
between the tracks at each stud
location, and cut studs to fit using
metal snips. The studs will be close
to the same length unless the floor
or the joists are greatly out of level.
Put a stud in position; align it with
the layout marks on the top track;
and fasten it using a 2-inch self-
tapping screw. Plumb each stud,
and fasten it to the bottom track.
To frame for a door opening, fol-
low conventional rough-opening
layout procedures. (See “Marking
Plates for Door Rough Openings,”
page 101.) Assemble two studs back
to back as a king stud with a section
of track as a jamb. (See the draw-
ings on page 197.) Cut a section of
track as shown in the drawings for
the header. Once you've framed the Transfer the position of the partition wall’s top track to the floor using a plumb
wall, apply drywall with screws. bob. Use the marks as guidelines for the bottom track.
 197
BASEMENT CEILINGS

16" or 24" | 16" or 24" 16" or 24"

ER EE REESE

om
|ad
LNAWSA
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aK 16" or 24" Framed

Opening
Detail
Header Track

If you're installing a ceiling, cover use wood or metal furring attached Check the joists. In some
the ceiling with drywall before cov- perpendicular to the joists and homes the ceiling joists may be
ering the walls. shimmed. For furring you can use inconsistent; that is, they are at dif-
wood 13s or resilient steel chan- ferent elevations. This can cause
nel (ceiling channel tracks), as in an unevenness in the ceiling finish.
Basement the procedure that follows. Before you install the ceiling chan-
nel tracks, pull a string across the
Ceilings Installing underside of the joists to check for
high spots, which you'll have to
You have several options when it a Drywall Ceiling shave, or low spots, which you'll
comes to installing a ceiling in the
basement. You can hang a suspend- have to shim.
Difficulty Level: a,
ed ceiling that uses a grid to hold install the furring. Set the
acoustical tiles. This option is a Tools and Materials: ceiling channel track in place,
good idea if you must have access and attach it to the underside of the
to utilities like electrical or plumb- @ Basic carpentry tools
ceiling joists 16 or 24 inches on cen-
ing and you can afford to lose a @ String ter by driving 1/-inch drywall nails
few inches of headroom. Accord- or 14-inch drywall screws into the
m Shims
ing to most building codes, there flanges on each side at each joist.
must be at least 90 inches of head- m Furring
As you install the channel, use a
room (84 inches in kitchens, hall- @ 8d nails level to double-check for consis-
ways, and bathrooms) in a finished tency from row to row. Shim
@ Drywall
basement. If headroom is tight, where necessary.
you can install drywall and paint it = Tape and joint compound
or glue acoustical tile to it. Don’t at- = Drywall screws Apply the drywall. When
tach drywall directly to the under- you've leveled, shimmed, and
m A drywall jack or T-brace installed the furring, apply drywall
side of the ceiling joists, however;
198
BASEMENT FRAMING

Pull a string across the joists and nail it off to check for Attach metal resilient channel across the joists, checking
high and low spots. for level and shimming as necessary.

$
qhe ie LIFTING PANEL
Kno MATERIALS
Use a lever and block to position
panel materials. Control the lever
with your foot. When the panel
is properly positioned, secure it
with a couple of nails or screws.
Then remove the lever and finish
fastening the panel.

3
r 4
Install drywall on the ceiling, attaching it to the metal channel and holding it in
place with a T-brace.

as you would to any ceiling. You'll distance from the strapping to the
be working over your head, so you floor. Wedge it beneath a piece of
may want a helper, and you may drywall on one end, so you can
want to construct a T-brace to help have your hands free to screw or rent locally. Drywall jacks are more
you hold the drywall in place. A T- nail at the other end. In place of a versatile than T-braces, allowing
brace is a T-shaped two-by device T-brace, you could use a drywall you to work alone if necessary, and
that is just a bit longer than the jack, which you might be able to are usually inexpensive to rent.
 199
BASEMENT FLOORS

the builder, if possible, to determine m Extruded polystyrene foam panels

whether insulation exists.
w /-inch plywood
Untreated wood will eventually
An insulated subfloor installed mw 6d common nails
rot when moisture comes into con-
over a concrete slab isolates the fin-
tact with it, so whatever design
you use to install a wood floor on
ished floor from the slab, resulting Put down a vapor barrier.
in a warmer floor and helping to After sweeping the floor slab,
a concrete floor must keep mois-
prevent moisture from damaging cover it with sheets of 6-mil poly-
ture from entering. All good con-
the flooring. The insulated subfloor ethylene plastic. Overlap each
crete-under-wood-floor projects consists of water-resistant ply- seam by at least 6 inches. Lift up
begin with a 6-mil polyethylene wood that’s nailed to sleepers, usu- the edges of the polyethylene, and
vapor barrier. ally pressure-treated 24s laid flat. use a caulking gun to put down
You might think you can attach Rigid insulation fits between the dabs of construction adhesive to
wood floors directly to concrete if sleepers. You can use either square- hold it in place.
you use the right adhesive. How- edge or tongue-and-groove-edge
plywood; tongue-and-groove ply- y] Install the perimeter sleep-
ever, even so-called waterproof |4
¢ad
LNAWA
ONIW
wood eliminates the need for block- ers. Use 2’4-inch nails fired
adhesives will eventually fail, and
ing placed beneath unsupported from a PAF or 2’-inch-long mason-
besides, you need a vapor barrier,
plywood edges. Remember that ry nails to fasten pressure-treated
remember? One solution is a floor
according to most building codes, 2x4 sleepers around the perimeter
design that will create an insulated
you must have at least 90 inches of the room. Because sleepers ex-
platform slightly above the concrete
of headroom in most of the base- pand and contract with changes in
floor, which you've already covered
ment’s living area (84 inches in temperature and moisture, leave
with a vapor barrier. To this plat-
kitchens, hallways, and bath- a '4-inch gap between the edge of
form you might attach wood floor-
rooms), measured from the fin- a sleeper and the wall. If the lum-
ing, resilient flooring, or carpeting.
ished floor. ber is dry and straight, a nail or two
You can also build the stud walls
installed every several feet will suf-
on top of this subfloor. If headroom Build the platform before installing fice. Shim the sleepers where need-
is tight, a better option might be a walls, and attach the bottom tracks ed. Mark these perimeter sleepers
newer development in floors: float- to the subfloor. for additional sleepers 24 inches on
ing laminate flooring, page 201.
center. This spacing is acceptable
Difficulty Level: WA, for /-inch plywood.
Installing
Tools and Materials 3 Install interior sleepers.
an Insulated Subfloor Align the interior sleepers
w Basic carpentry tools
Most likely there’s no insulation square to the marks on the perime-
beneath your basement slab. One w Polyethylene vapor barrier ter sleepers. Sight the floor with a
exception might be an unfinished m Construction adhesive straight 2x4 on edge and a level to
daylight basement, where at least determine where to shim the sleep-
® Caulking gun
one wall is exposed to the grade. ers because of unevenness in the
An uninsulated slab is uncomfort- m Pressure-treated 2x4s concrete. Use one fastener at the end
ably cold in the winter, so contact m PAF or 2/-inch masonry nails of each sleeper and one about every

os |

Sweep the slab and lay 6-mil plastic sheeting as a vapor y Fasten pressure-treated 2x4 sleepers around the perimeter
barrier, overlapping the seams by 6 in. of the room on top of the vapor barrier.
200
BASEMENT FRAMING

48 inches. Position the sleepers end with staggered joints, and fasten Laminate flooring is generally made
to end, but leave a 2-inch gap be- them using 6d galvanized nails. of high-strength hardboard that is
tween the ends for expansion. Install a wood floor or carpeting sealed, top and bottom. The top sur-
right on the subfloor, or nail down face is decorative, high-pressure
Insert the foam panels. melamine laminate resembling
Medium-density extruded an underlayment on top of the sub-
wood or natural stone. Laminate
polystyrene foam is best for con- floor for a resilient floor.
flooring can be installed over any
crete floor slabs. Use a thickness
substrate.
that matches the thickness of the Laminate &
The other kind is manufactured by
sleepers, about 1'4inches. Cut the Engineered Flooring
pieces to fit between the sleepers cross-laminating layers of wood
and insert them. As its name suggests, prefinished veneer and is called Engineered
flooring comes with a factory-ap- flooring. The top layer is usually a
Attach the subfloor. Use
plied, finished topcoat. There are hardwood veneer that is finished
“inch plywood subflooring,
two basic varieties. There installa- with a number of coats of UV-cured
either square or tongue-and-groove
tion methods are similar, but you urethane. The 2-inch-thick flooring
edge. Cut the plywood to run per-
should check with the manufactur- comes in strips 2 to 4 inches wide
pendicular to, rather than parallel
er concerning your requirements. or planks more than 4 inches wide.
with, the sleepers. Lay the panels
The planks often contain a number
of narrow strips and resemble strip
flooring when installed.
Because it’s made from layers of
wood plies or sealed hardboard,
these products are more stable than
solid wood, and you can install them
where ordinary wood flooring might
have problems, say below grade and
directly over concrete. This stability
also allows you to install the flooring
as a floating floor system over a /-
inch-thick layer of high-density foam
underlayment. You glue the tongue-
and-groove joints, using no nails
in the installation. Some systems
3 Space the pressure-+treated sleepers 24 in. on center, and fasten them using a are glueless. You simply click the
powder-actuated fastener with 2/-in nails. tongue-and-groove sections together.

CEA

Cut 1Yein-thick extruded-foam panels to fit between the Attach %-in. plywood panels perpendicular to the sleep-
sleepers, and lay them in place. ers, staggering the joints.
 201
BEAMS, DUCTS, PIPES & COLUMNS

Installing Prepare the floor. Lay a Join the planks. Try to

a Floating Floor vapor barrier of polyethylene work in room-length runs. Join
sheeting that is at least 6 mil thick. the planks by running a bead of
Overlap the vapor-barrier joints white glue or carpenter’s glue in the
Difficulty Level: @a¥,
by at least 6 inches, and tape them bottom edge of the groove as you
Tools and Materials with duct tape. Roll out the foam install each succeeding section.
underlayment, and cut it to fit the
m Polyethylene vapor barrier Finish the job. Tap the sec-
room. Butt the joints, and seal
tions together tightly with a
m Foam underlayment and tape them with duct tape.
hammer on a hammering block.
= Laminate flooring and glue Lay the planks. Leave a Flooring from some manufactur-
m Measuring tape, pencil, and ’/-inch expansion gap around ers comes with a plastic hammer-
hammer the perimeter of the room. Start ing block; if yours doesn’t, use a
the installation on one of the long scrap piece of flooring. Mark, cut,
m Handsaw, circular saw, utility walls of the room, with the panel’s and install planks in irregular
knife
groove facing the wall. areas just as you would a normal ¢
|as
LNAWA
ONIW
wood floor.

Ve" Spacers
Beams, Ducts,
Pipes & Columns
Basements often contain beams,
ducts, pipes, and columns, all of
which you should cover when
converting the space into a living
area. Don’t ever remove beams
and columns. They were originally
installed for required structural
support, and removing them may
cause serious structural damage.
Leave an expansion gap of 2 in.,
The best thing to do with such per-
1 Lay a polyethylene vapor barrier;
and lay the planking with the manent obstructions is to box them
then roll out the foam underlayment
and trim it to fit the room. Tape all joints. grooved edge facing the wall. in with framing and drywall or
one-by pine.
Framing and covering pipes, thin
(4-inch) columns, and small ducts
(6 x 6 inches, for example) with dry-
Carpenter's Glue wall may be more trouble than it’s
worth, so simply use one-by pine
to box them in. There is no need to
miter the pine boards, since you can
nail them where their edges butt,
but you may want to do so fora
neater appearance.

Concealing Beams
and Ducts
The task of concealing a wood
beam or post isn’t difficult. You
might nail plywood paneling or
drywall to a wood beam or post
Squeeze carpenter's glue into the 4 Tap the joints tight with a hammer and treat the edges just as you
bottom of each groove, and then and a scrap of flooring or plastic would walls finished with the
join the panels, tongue to groove. hammering block. same materials. Or simply sand
202
BASEMENT FRAMING

the beam or post smooth; round cover the drywall corner joints with definitely is a job for a heating-and-
over or chamfer the edges with corner bead—a metal strip made at cooling contractor. In most cases,
a router; and paint it. a 90-degree angle, which you nail to it’s easier and less expensive to leave
outside drywall corners to protect the ducts in place. With an informal
A steel beam, on the other hand,
them—or with molding. decor, you can just paint the duct-
isn’t easy to conceal because it’s work to match the ceiling color. It
difficult to fasten material to it. To A large, rectangular, sheet-metal
may also be possible to enclose them
get around this problem, you can duct, called a trunk, often leads from
within the confines of a suspended
secure paneling or drywall to wood a furnace to the farthest points of
ceiling. If not, you can box the ducts
framework that’s nailed to the un- a house. You'll often find trunks
within a wood framework similar
derside of the ceiling joists. First along attic floors and basement
to that for a beam and cover the
build two wood “ladders” made of ceilings. Smaller ducts branch off
frame with drywall or paneling.
22s. Place the ladders against the the trunk and distribute warm air
beam, toenail them to the joists, and to each room served. The ducts in
attach crosspieces between the lad- a central air-conditioning system Concealing Soil Pipes
ders using 2//-inch screws. Attach may have a similar layout. If the The soil pipe, the main drainpipe
drywall on all three sides, also using ducts obstruct headroom, it may
of the plumbing system, conducts
screws. Before finishing the walls, be possible to move them, but this water and waste away from the
house. Typically, it’s the largest pipe
in the house and may be plastic or
cast iron. If possible, enclose the pipe
within a box or soffit as shown in
the drawing below. Predrill through
the joists and bottom 24 for the
2’/-inch screws, and attach the dry-
wall using screws. It’s a good idea to
wrap the pipe in insulation before
you box it in, especially if it’s plastic.
The insulation reduces the sound of
rushing water. Be sure to take mea-
surements in several places along
the length of the pipe before mak-
ing the box because the pipe slopes
at least 4 inch per foot for proper
drainage. If you'll cover the pipe’s
Concealing Beams and Ducts. Build a framework of 2x2 “ladders;” attach it to clean-out plug by the concealment
the joists; and cover it with drywall. process, provide access to the plug.

Wenow
pro? TIGHT-QUARTERS NAILING
To drive nails where you can’t reach them,
lay the flat end of a wrecking bar on the nailhead, then
whack the bar with a hammer as close as possible to the
nail. You'll be able to drive the nail flush with the surface
of the wood.

Corner Molding or Corner Bead

Concealing Soil Pipes. Frame around large pipes with

2x4s as shown, and attach drywall.
 BEAMS, DUCTS, PIPES & COLUMNS

Boxing around a Post

A good way to conceal a lally col-
umn, a smaller duct, or a pipe is to
create a wood box to surround it.
This method consumes less space
than a frame and drywall. Use one-
by stock to build the box; pine or a
hardwood such as oak is appropri-
ate. You can paint or stain pine, and
while you can stain hardwood, you
can also leave it natural and coat it
with a clear varnish or sealer.

Difficulty Level: @a%,

¢
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LNAWA
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Tools and Materials | Use a framing square to draw a full- Use a table saw to miter the sides. For
scale layout of the one-by wood safety, use a blade guard (not shown),
@ Basic carpentry tools box on the floor. and tilt the blade away from the fence.
m Framing square
= One-by lumber
m Table saw (or circular saw)
= Wood glue and clamp
w 6d finishing nails
= Wood putty
= Sandpaper

| Lay out the box. Use a fram-

ing square to lay out the inside
perimeter of the box. You can then
draw the outside perimeter 7 inch
outside the first line, providing the
exact outside dimensions of the box.
Cut the sides. Measure the Rounded-over
distance between the floor and Edge
ceiling; then subtract “4 inch from
the measurement to provide a fit-
ting allowance. Cut four pieces of
stock to length. Use a table saw or
circular saw to miter each edge at
a 45-degree angle if desired. Test-
fit the assembly around the post.
Assemble and install the
box. Spread a thin film of
wood glue on the edges, and use 6d
Ss a A
finishing nails to nail three sides of Glue and nail three sides together; Fill the nailholes with wood putty,
the box together. Then slip the three slip the assembly over the post; and and then use sandpaper to smooth
sides over the post, and clamp and nail on the fourth side. Toenail the box to them and to round over the corners. You
nail the fourth side into place. Toe- the floor and to the beam. can stain or paint the box later.
nail the box to the floor and to the
beam above. If you can’t toenail the Finish the box. Use sandpa- the box and to those who may bump
bottom, apply a bead or two of con- per or a rasp to round over the into it accidentally. Use wood putty
struction adhesive under the box to edges of the box. Rounding the edges to fill all nailholes, and then sand
hold it in place. minimizes impact damage, both to them smooth. Paint or stain the box.
 design
ideas for
basements

Above Get in shape by con-

verting part of a basement to
a home workout center.

Left If creating a family room,

add a wet bar and cabinets
for extra convenience.

Opposite Built-in display

cabinets add an elegant touch
to this television room.

Left An unused base-

ment may be the only
space large enough for
a home theater system.

Right A dry basement

that receives some natural
light is a great spot for an
extra bedroom.
 x
i
ca Sk
 nefalling 4
Bay Window

O ne way to gain a little extra

space, or at least the illu-
sion of space, is by adding bay
windows to your home’s design.
As shown at right, a bay window projects out from the
plane of the wall, giving you extra floor and shelf space
inside. The large amount of glass helps open up the inte-
rior, providing the illusion of more space. Most aspects of
a bay window are simple to frame, except the short roof
rafters. These rafters are tricky to lay out and involve cut-
ting compound angles. But the work is not so difficult
that it can’t be handled with the right tools, some care,
and the use of a calculator.
 207
BAY WINDOWS

Bay Windows for the bay window will be a hole

in the side of the building like that
will give you dimensions or even a
full-size pattern to use. Most bay
A bay window—also called an used for a standard window. Read windows have a large face and two
oriel—can add a surprising amount the literature enclosed with the unit smaller sections, one on each side.
of light and space to a room, not to determine the dimensions for the The side windows meet the face
to mention a panoramic view of the opening. (See “Walls & Partitions,” window at a 135-degree angle ina
outdoors. You can buy prefabricated starting on page 93, for how to frame 45-degree bay unit. (See the draw-
bay windows in 30-degree, 45-de- a window rough opening.) ing.) Assemble the frames using
gree, and 90-degree (box) bays. You 12d nails.
can also create your own bay by With the rough opening formed and
the wall sheathed, you'll attach two Install the lower support
building angled walls and framing
frames—one above and one below— frame. Attach one of the 2x4
for double-hung or casement win-
that protrude horizontally from the support frames to the house at the
dows combined with fixed units.
side of the house. The frames will bottom of the rough opening. After
This chapter describes installing a support the bay window from below leveling, nail through the back 2x4
prefabricated 45-degree bay win- and support the bay window’s roof into the house studs using 16d nails.
dow. Although you can bump out above. Build two 2x4 “footprints” of In some cases you'll attach the frame
the entire wall when you install a the bay-window shape, sheathed on so that its plywood top is flush with
bay window and gain extra floor one side with -inch CDX plywood, the sill plate of the rough opening.
space, we show installing the unit to act as the support frames. Instruc- In other cases you'll attach the frame
in a conventional window rough tions that come with the window below the sill plate to allow for
opening, which results in a large
windowsill area that provides shelf
2x4 Support Frame
space. (See “Floor-Support Alterna-
tives,” page 210, for information on Va Plywood
creating a bump-out.) When you
install a bay window in this manner,
you can support the unit using dec-
orative brackets for structural sup-
port or—as we do—using diagonal vl
MOQNI
VONITIV
AV
lumber braces covered with a ply-
wood skirt that’s sided to match the
house. Some window manufacturers
employ a cable support system in
their bay-window units, which re-
quires no additional support from
below. Carefully read the instruc-
tions that come with your window
to determine the support required.

Framing for a Bay

Window (Oriel)
Difficulty Level: WV
Tools and Materials
m Basic carpentry tools
m Bay window
@ Two-by framing lumber
mw One-by trim lumber
m /-inch CDX plywood

Build the rough opening

and upper and lower sup- 1 Build two 2x4 support frames, one to support the window unit and the other as
port frames. The rough opening a base for the roof. Match the shape of the bay window, and use 12d nails.
208
INSTALLING A BAY WINDOW

lms \ Head Board

Sash

Blocking

1
us Seat Board
1 es Y
1 ee J a
, - \ '
‘ a T
/
poaN |
eee
eee mean
7

° PS A Pe

2? Attach ihe lowe r support frame to the house framing using two 16d nails in each stud. You may have to account for blocking
(right). See the manufacturer's literature before you install the frame.

blocking. This is because the angled so that the window’s seat board
sill on many bay-window units will enclose a layer of insulation
doesn’t allow the window to sit between it and the support frame.
flush on the support frame. By pro-
3 Install bracing. To support
viding blocking, you allow the win-
the 2x4 frame, install a 2x6
dow to sit above the decking, with
ledger board that spans two-thirds
its base level, the window frame
the width of the bay window, cen-
plumb, and the angle of the sill
tered below the unit. As for eleva-
maintained in its proper position.
tion, the braces supporting the bay
The literature provided by the window will sit at 45-degree angles,
manufacturer will provide the and their position will dictate the
height of the required blocking. elevation of the ledger board. (See
Look for a drawing similar to the drawing.)
the one above (right). Some bay
Attach the ledger to wall studs using
windows require blocking above
at least two 3-inch-long, -inch-di-
the head board as well as below 2x6 Ledger
ameter lag screws. Drill pilot holes Board
the seat board. The cross-sectional
for the lag screws into the studs,
view of the window will show the
and drill clearance and countersink
placement of any blocking (top or 3 Lag-screw the ledger board to wall
holes in the ledger. If you are in-
bottom) and its dimensions. Install studs at a height that will support
stalling the window on a house that
the blocking along the full length braces attached at 45-degree angles.
has already been sided, remove the
of each side of the plywood deck- Notch the braces over the ledger.
siding where the ledger board con-
ing and along each end, creating a
tacts the house. The ledger should
box on which the window will sit. port frame to the ledger board, as
sit flush against the sheathing.
Fasten the blocking with 8d nails, shown in the drawing. Notch the
and then install rigid or fiberglass- Run braces at a 45-degree angle braces over the ledger as shown,
batt insulation between the blocks from the underside of the 2x4 sup- and attach them to the 2x4 frame
 BAY WINDOWS

—
“joists” using three 10d nails or
° Nails Tacked_— 2'4-inch deck screws. You'll proba-
if Plaee >
bly want to hide these braces from
view later by building a plywood
skirt around the base of the bay win-
dow. The skirt will also cover any
insulation you choose to add to the
underside of the 2x4 support frame.
Place the window. With at
least one other person helping
you, position the window on top
of the 2x4 support frame. Tack
the window to the house with a
few 10d nails through the win-
dow’s brickmold or nailing flange.
Do not drive the nails home.

Install the top support

frame. Set the top 2x4 sup-
port frame in place on top of the
bay window. After you've posi-
tioned the frame squarely, nail it
to the house framing (through the
back 2x4 into the opening header)
using 16d nails. Remove the tacked
nails, and level and plumb the win-
dow. Use cedar shims to hold the
= rt S REA ro A window in place. Nail through the
4 Once you've initially positioned the bay window with the assistance window flange or brickmold into
tack it in place with 10d nails. the window-opening framing. |
Dp
:ONITIV
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V
AV

Caulk

eet

Side Window

Of Zz : nxt > © ae

oral e a a
5 Install the top support frame by nailing it to the house studs; then remove the tacked nails; plumb and level the window; and
nail it in position. Siding will butt the window frame (right).
210
INSTALLING A BAY WINDOW

FLOOR-SUPPORT ALTERNATIVES

If you want to gain square footage For a cantilevered floor, you have the other end of the joists to the
by bumping out a wall to hold a to cut out a section of the rim joist house’s rim joist using hangers.
bay window, you'll need to pro- and add sister joists to the floor If you have a slab-on-grade foun-
vide support for a floor—unless joists that run from the foundation dation, you can pour an add-on
your project is new construction wall to another support, such as a slab to support the new bay-win-
and you've accounted for the beam. (See “Cantilevered Joists,” dow bump out. You'll need to at-
bump-out in the original founda- page 88.) tach the new slab to the existing
tion footprint. A post-supported floor requires that one, though. Attachment entails
You have at least three choices if you set footings below the frost line drilling holes in the existing con- |
you're adding floor support: a can- and pour at least two concrete crete to accept rebar rods, which |
tilevered floor, a postsupported piers to support a header to which will in turn extend into the new slab
floor, or a slab-on-grade floor. you'll attach the floor joists. Attach and tie it to the house foundation. |

Building the The ridge is only as long as the rafters have an angle cut across
front face of the center window. the crown edge that matches the
Bay-Window Roof roof slope so that the plywood
Two plumb-cut rafters will sit
With the bay window in place, it’s perpendicular to the ends of the roof sheathing can sit flush against
time to build the roof. To save your- ridge. These rafters are the bay the wall rafters where it meets the
self the rafter calculations (which window “commons.” You'll bev- house siding.
are challenging), you can install a el the crown edge and the plumb- The third kind of rafter is the “side
prefabricated roof, often clad with cut end of the rafters as though rafter,” and it runs, just like a hip
copper, offered by window makers. they were hip rafters because this is rafter, from the junction of the wall
If you decide to build your own where the plywood sheathing and rafter and the common rafter. You
bay-window roof, match the main the fascia boards will meet from might want to cut these rafters (after
house’s roof slope for the best ap- different angles. you've installed the others) by trial
pearance. To better envision the The second kind of rafter is the and error until they fit to avoid dif-
bay-window roof, think of it as “wall rafter.” The wall rafters run ficult calculations.
one-half of a modified hip roof.
from each end of the ridge to the All three rafters have bird’s-mouth
There are three kinds of rafters and top support frame at the same slope cuts where they meet the “top plate”
one “ridge” in a bay window roof. as the bay-window commons. These (the 2x4 top support frame).
 BAY WINDOWS

Installing the Bay-Window rafters as you would commons, after Measure and cut the side
Roof Framing determining their rise and run with rafters. The side rafters are
a measuring tape. Along the crown also cut like commons. Though they
edge of the wall rafters, rip an angle will have the same rise as the two
Difficulty level: WB,
that corresponds to the slope of the common rafters you first cut, they
Tools and Materials bay’s roof. For an 8-in-12 roof, that will have a shorter run. But at the
angle is just over 33 degrees. At the ridge, the side rafters are cut like
= Basic carpentry tools
tail, cut a 45-degree angle. hip rafters, with two side cuts corre-
m 2x6 lumber, 12d nails
m /2-inch CDX plywood

Measure and cut the com-

mon rafters. Once you've de-
cided on the slope, determine the rise
using calculations explained earlier
in this book for common gable roofs.
(See “Figuring Total Rise,” page 122.)
Once you know the rise and run of
the roof, calculate the length of the
common rafters. (See “Calculating
the Length,” page 125.) With the
rafter length in hand, mark and cut
the rafters. The “building line” will
be the outside edge of the top sup-
port frame. (See “Marking the Raf-
ter Length,” page 128, and “Making
the Bird’s-Mouth, Ridge & Tail
Cuts,” page 129.) Bevel one side of
the crown edge and the plumb-cut 2x6S Vi
MOAU
VONIT
AV
rafter tail to accommodate the two
roof planes, which meet at each Support Frame
(Attached to Side of House)
common rafter. (See the drawing.)
Building the Bay-Window Roof. A bay-window roof is essentially one-half of a
Measure and cut the wall hip roof with the corners clipped. The common rafter, side rafter, and wall rafter are
rafters. Mark and cut the wall all cut and beveled differently.

Ridge (Attached
to Side of House)

Common
Rafters

Bird’s Mouth
Cut

Support Frame

Determine the rise and run; then cut the common Cut and then install the wall rafters as you did the commons.
rafters and ridge and attach them to the side of the For each rafter, bevel the top edge to fit the slope and the
house. Bevel the rafters’ outside edge and outside end. plumb-cut edge at 45 degrees to match the window’s angle.
ad|
INSTALLING A BAY WINDOW

Side Rafter

2x4 Support

a Frame

Run of Side Rafter

14! Trim
Pieces

Window

Hes

3 Install the side rafters between the wall rafters and the common rafters. 4 Trim the bay-window roof with one-by mate-
Make side cuts at the top of the rafters as though they were hip rafters. rial to form the fascia/soffit and to cover the
You don’t have to bevel the upper edge. joint between the window and support frame.

sponding to the slope of the roof.

(See “Mark the Ridge Side Cuts,”
page 148.) There is no need to bevel
the crown edge.

4 Install roof fascia and

soffit. Because the common
rafter tails have been plumb-cut
and beveled, it’s easy to trim out
the connection between the win-
dow and the upper 24 support
frame with one-by pine to form
a fascia and small soffit. (See the
drawing for one way to do the job.)

Trimming Out the

Bottom of the Window
Build a 2x4 frame similar to that in
the drawing to echo the shape of
the support frames. Build the frame
deep enough to at least cover the
braces and ledger. Small blocks
with a beveled edge installed on
each side of the front vertical mem-
bers provide nailing surfaces for
the side pieces of plywood. Sheathe
the skirt frame with plywood and
siding to match the house. If you
choose not to build a skirt, install a Trimming Out the Bottom of the Window. Build a 2x4 frame and sheathe it
plywood soffit beneath the lower with plywood to enclose the bottom of the bay window and hide the braces and any
template, trimmed out with one-by insulation. The frame is built to the same outside dimensions as the lower support
pine. Paint the braces and ledger to frame. Beveled blocking provides nailing for plywood at the outside corners. This
match the color of the house. treatment looks best with a foundation.
 213
DESIGN IDEAS FOR WINE

design
ideas for
windows

Se ee ET UN 7

SINTTGTL}hf
LE
CSET ELA
ATT
Z E
MMT AA,

Above A cushioned window

seat provides additional seating
in this breakfast nook.

Above right The angles

created by a bay window cre-
ate a peaceful sitting area.

Right This style bay window

combines fixed glass and oper-
able casements.

be
214
INSTALLING A BAY WINDOW

design Left Mid-height curtains

provide a sense of enclo-
ideas for sure and privacy to peo-
ple sitting on this sofa.
windows
Opposite Similar to
bay windows, bow win-
dows also provide light
and a distinctive design.

Above A floor-to-ceiling bay

is unusual, but it affords great
views and helps the room
seem light and airy.

Right A bay window with a

builtin window seat is the
perfect spot to get away from
it all. This design gives you
the opportunity to try creative
window treatments.
ROS
BAR sp fie
oLAN to Help You
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e

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 217

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JWOH
SNV1
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24 Park Way
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J Slab 4 Crawl space ‘J Basement 4 Walk-out basement
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Important Extras ~~
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 Dimensions: 62'4" W x 53'6" D
Levels: 2
Images provided by designer/architect.
Square Footage: 2,567
Main Level Sq. Ft.: 2,017
Upper Level Sq. Ft.: 550 ¢ Breakfast Room: Eat at the bar this room
The features of this home are so good that
Bedrooms: 4 you may have trouble imagining all of them shares with the island kitchen, and admire
Bathrooms: 3 i Bronce the 12-ft. cathedral ceiling and bayed group
Foundation: Craw! space, slab, b of 8- and 9-ft. windows. Or go through the
Features:
or basement sliding glass door to the covered side porch.
Materials List Available: Yes ¢ Great Room: Imagine a stepped ceiling,
corner fireplace, built-in media center, and Master Suite: The bedroom has a tray ceil-
Price Category: F
wall of windows with a glass door to the ing and cozy sitting area, and a whirlpool
backyard—in one room. tub, shower, and walk-in closet are in the
skylighted bath.
¢ Dining Room: A stepped ceiling and server
with a sink add to the elegance ofthis for- Optional Study: The private bath near bed-
Main Level Floor Plan mal room. room 2 makes it ideal for a study or home
office.

(
aN
ae.
band ¢ Bonus Room: Enjoy the extra 300 sq. ft.
“SITTING
CATH CLG 7 = | AREA|
BKFST RM tL
| PORCH 12’-0"x 11/-8"
UP a io TET
STEPPED
CLG
TE Bbicr IN ky”|
| g-6* HIGH
tA Le, a
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GREAT RM
@5’-8*x 17’-0" | Am
| TRAY CEIL
MSTR BEDRM
| Upper Level Floor Plan

hel Ed paper a
f fe]_| KITCHEN
1440"
_————v

“ a UPPER
BKFST RM
NS
|
sees et igual
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PANT
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ATTIC SPACE
ALTERNATE VAULTED
i STEPPED CLG; 1! STORAGE CLG FOR GREAT RM)
FUTURE SPACE
(DINING RM) }! 20’-0"x 18’-10°
1P’-0"x 14’-0"! = a
| || FOY BEDRM #4
| {2’-0"x 12/-07fO_
TWO CAR GARAGE BEDRM #2 BEDRM #3
13’-0"x 12°-4 14-0" 11-0"
eo 07% 20'=0"
COV PORCH
 Tal
baad

Plan #131003
Dimensions: 60' W x 39'10" D JWOH
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Levels: 1
Images provided by designer/architect.
Square Footage: 1,466
Bedrooms: 3 Copyright by Gene
Bathrooms: 2
nati da Ey dea WDD eee |VAULTED|
Foundation: Basement, crawl space, BEDRM #2
| 10’-0" HIGH | ee RM
or slab ISTEPPED CLG| ae i )
MSTR BEDRM Or | 10’-0" HIGH |
Materials List Available: Yes ' STEPPED CLG |
Price Category: B | GREAT RM |
4/0" x. 23/44"
-—Q’

Victorian styling adds elegance to this compact

and easy-to-maintain ranch design. 2 | FOYER.
Features: LOCATION OF OPT a a a Ne
BSMT STAIRS BKFST RM f] ==
* Ceiling Height: 8 ft. ie et 4 3’ CLG HT
TWO CAR GARAGE d COVERED BEDRM #3
e Foyer: Bridging between the front door and 20-0" 2007 Pus PORCH ie Soe
the great room, this foyer is a surprise feature. — Celexa LS Oe

¢ Great Room: A 10-ft. ceiling adds to the

spacious feeling of this room, while the corner ALT. FRONT ENTRY GARAGE

fireplace gives it an intimate feeling. Sliding \ SEAT

Sf

glass doors at the rear of the room open to

the backyard.
¢ Dining Room: This formal room adjoins the
great room, allowing guests and family to flow
between the rooms.
¢ Breakfast Room: Turrets add a Victorian Breakfast
feeling to this room that’s just off the kitchen Room
and overlooks the front porch.
¢ Master Suite: Privacy is assured in this suite,
| which is separated from the main part of the
house. A compartmented bath and large
: walk-in closet add convenience to its beauty.

www.ultimateplans.com
 MASTER SUITE
16'-0" X 13'-5"

NT.
| PORCH x1
3 23" i

+ GREAT ROOM y ii
17'-8" X 16'-5" |

Plan #241002
2
Images provided by
Dimensions: 65' W x 59'8" D designer/architect.
| BEDROOM.s |BEDROOM-4 [FOYER
Levels: 1 DOUBLE GARAGE
20'-0" X 20'-0"
Square Footage: 2,154
Bedrooms: 4
65'-0"
Bathrooms: 27 STORAGE

Foundation: Slab, crawl space, Copyright by designer/architect.

or basement
Materials List Available: No
Price Category: D

Main Level Floor Plan

Copyright by
designer/architect.

Plan #121049
Dimensions: 82' W x 60'8" D
Levels: 2 R Images provided by
Square Footage: 3,335 s x designer/architect.

Main Level Sq. Ft.: 2,054

Upper Level Sq. Ft.: 1,281
a]
Bedrooms: 4
Bathrooms: 37
Foundation: Slab
Materials List Available: Yes
Price Category: G M
STORAGE

order direct: 1-800-523-6789

 N N joo

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12°x138
\ VF E
come caine At

Din,
ie i 130x155

Plan #121065
62'- 0"
ee - - - > A$
See eee —s -

Main Level Floor Plan

Dimensions: 62' W x 55'4" D
Levels: 2
Images provided by
Square Footage: 3,407 designer/architect.
Main Level Sq. Ft.: 1,719
Upper Level Sq. Ft.: 1,688
Bedrooms: 4
Bathrooms: 2’
Foundation: Basement
Materials List Available: Yes Upper Level
Price Category: G
Floor Plan . SNV1d
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Copyright by
designer/architect.

— a =
SCREENED DECK ——. a
| i PORCH i 140% x 7'6" is 44' CEILING =
| | 15'4" Xx 1310) III | | | | | vu) wa)

| | a XK ur) Hi i ae 4
— " eel i

a HHH 7 MASTER SUIT!

p PPL) erKrst 21'4" x 15'0"
| | dOSxX 10:10
BEDROOM 3
8' HIGH OPENING
13'0" x 11'0"5

_| KITCHEN
FAMILY ROOM 13'8" x 9'6) |
16'0"x 244" parse [fa
Vit) cy BO CE ERG i ORTIONAL Stains a

Plan #101005
13°10" CEILIN : , i] 2 al of -2"
ae) DINING v
+1 44'0" x 12'0"
19-44CEILING Ce NS TRAY CEILING : 5 I

Dimensions: 63' W x 57'2" D :

Images provided by BEDROOM 2] ww ay ee:
— AR

Levels: 1 designer/architect.
ig! 0" x
13'0" x 11'011'0" LIVING PORCH
45'4" x 5'4" os
21'4"
x 2910”
: 11'0" x 12'0" = = i
Square Footage: 1,992
Bedrooms: 3 pagreke
D Fy 2.CAR GARAGE OPTION

Bathrooms: 2% Vea 463-0

AiLp® ee |
Foundation: Slab, craw! space, Copyright by designer/architect.
or basement
Materials List Available: Yes
Price Category: D

www.ultimateplans.com
 Master
ae Bedroom
eT a 16'9"x21'5"
__—=——-
| fs
Breakfast Living
| 14xt2a" 24'8"x19'3"
|

|
:
aa Dining
s3xi47z" Foyer > 4ayqo
Bedroom fk. b BO
+ ——
[E F i Bedroom
Jd ere 12) Texas
Utility
Images provided by
Dimensions: /6' W x 85' D
designer/architect.
Levels: 1
Square Footage: 2,968
Bedrooms: 4
Garage
Full Bathrooms: 3% PIPL SOP
i

Foundation: Slab
|

Materials List Available: No

a el |
Price Category: F

———@

TRAY CEILING

|| Ht Virensecall ee.

It 1
=

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NE Ee U INIIPATIO.OR UI p< 1k Hers
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al ' BEDROOM 3 IMT ins

|4 11'-0" x 13'-6" COUNTRY Jo Bonus
kes 9" CEILING KITCHEN | :
seeeumesnonn Sy ? 44°-3" x22'-6"|, |Fe O x
mt C S ni

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|

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DW

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OSU Wreaa

& — \\opT.sTAIRS ———

58'~

Plan #101011
15'-2" x 2" | ] S TO BASEMENT
12°-6" HIGH CEILING 1 ia LINE OF t

a2 | a9) | / BONUS |
“ } | | j
HK
BEDROOM 2
8 ETE
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0" x 13"-6"
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; 4540
= 0s q
Dimensions: 71'2" W x 58'1" D / TS" x 46" i i
Images provided by
BOOKSHELVE LIVING DINING I GARAGE | ;
Levels: 1 designer/architect. 11"-0" x 12'-0" | 11'-0" x 12-0" | 21%-2" x 24-0" |
9" CEILING | 10" HIGH CEILING l Il
Square Footage: 2,184 Bie
\
Hi | 1
aes
Lifae aie
|IPORCH
Bedrooms: 3 D Fy, 20'4" x 6'-0"
agaake | (Oo ! 4
Bathrooms: 3 a/ E.
“Aine 71'-2" *

Foundation: Slab, crawl space,

Copyright by designer/architect.
walk-out or basement
Materials List Available: Yes
Price Category: D

ore lirect: 1-800-523-6789

 Pr ee) ag 7
| TRAY CEILING

"|SITTING DECK
= \ Pst = = = =

<Q] iol MASTER

wi BDRM | “ SCREEN
sae
21-4" %45'-0" “<_] Sk¥EIGHT SKYtIGHT BEDROOM 3
13'-0" x 12'-0"
|
FAMILY ROOM
L 18'-0" x 16'-2”
BRKFST. (Ope tee 7
| 2 I SERVING

BRKFST| ieee = Pian Cetin ix

| BAR

K\
mA io-4"x 10-0" 12'-4"
x11'-0" an
SO~6"
v || SAS pesea SZ BENDSRom a et
v
Plan #101004 |
|
ENTRY
won | BEDROOM2
DINING
\s ef {| e 13'-0"x 12'-0
BONUS ROOM
11'-0" x 12'-0 :
Dimensions: 55'8" W x 56'6" D Images provided by iH | | 42%2"x 20'-4" |
= - aaa
designer/architect. |
Levels: 1
7 ik - PORCH
H | SS |
Square Footage: 1,787 | |
es
| | |GARAGE | 455-3>
Bedrooms: 3 obs ae
} | 124'-4" x 20'-4""1
Bathrooms: 2 "haere
—— es
Foundation: Slab, crawl space, Copyright by designer/architect.
or basement
Materials List Available: Yes
JWOH
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Price Category: C

BEDROOM 2
W-8" X 12'-0*

COVERED PORCH
21-8" X 7'-8"

BEDROOM 3 FAMILY eh i
13'-2" X 12'-0* wr -A* XI 4

BREFST. BM “a Soe Ree

IS Ow.

KITCHEN i

Plan #151002
\ 13'-0" X 13'-0"
COMP. REF

Dimensions: 67' W x 66' D Images provided by DINING

Was, x 12
aM

Levels: 1 designer/architect.
Square Footage: 2,444
pearl
GARAGE
Bedrooms: 3 20'-8" X 22'-0"

Bathrooms: 27 o>ad
Foundation: Basement, crawl space,
or slab
Copyright by designer/architect.
CompleteCost List Available: Yes
Price Category: E

www.ultimatepla 5.cOomMm
 1 VAULTED CLG Main Level
f me FAMILY RM
9’ HIGH cis © [CIs HIGH cLG erin on oS i SaCol Floor Plan
DINING RM \ KITCHEN ie

18’-8’x 16’-0" | /

9’ HIGH CLG

LIVING RM

:i 'e 13'-0'x 16’-6" jf ee1=B"%

a eee
20-0"
Ea a *
Plan #131030
. . 1 i
Dimensions: 51' W x 41'10" D oe
Copyright by designer/architect. ]
Levels: 2 ea
ey Upper Level
Square Footage: 2,470 finagesiprovided oy iN Floor Plan
Main Level Sq. Ft.: 1,290 d designer/architect. —sxvue

Upper Level Sq. Ft.: 1,180

Bedrooms: 4
Bathrooms: 27 VAULTED cub

Foundation: Crawl space, slab, MSTR BEDRM

basement, or walk-out basement 13’-0"x
t
19/-0" BEDRM #3
11 11/-4"x
t 12’-0"
Materials List Available: Yes it
1
'1
Price Category: F

Entry

|
WORK SHOP

Copyright by designer/architect.
SS S

COVERED GRILLING
PORCH
30'-6* X 12'-6"

pm
al L —— BRKFAST
RM
12-4" X 9'-6*

M.BATH
15'-2" X 18'-0" 74'-10
4

i
eT KR
Ta
abn
GREAT EY é

Plan an
#151050 GALLERY PGHEN.
ea
'-8" X |4'-8*

—
Dimensions: 69'2" W x 74'10" D Images provided by FOYER

Levels: 1 designer/architect.
DINING RM
COVERED PORCH 12-4" X 12-0"
17'-0" X 5'-0*

Square Footage: 2,096 o 0}

Bedrooms: 3 acaD}
BEDROOM
aoe 2

Bathrooms: . 2 7, Orn ty
2/

Foundation: Crawl space, slab,

or basement
Complete Cost List Available: Yes
Price Category: D

orde ect: 1-800-523-6789

 ——— || SUNROOM hated betta
<r SS SSS ; 5)
Us oer : 12'-0" X 12'-0'
vs Toe,
SUITE |
43-5" X 180" PORCH | BRK.
| (CORFERED i 9'-0" X 12'-8"
oo EATING BAR
eel vx P
Ox =
cea ROOM olay DW.oS
SO =
; 191-0" X17-6’ = —
(9 CLG) ae KIT. = i CL ]
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=== ——
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DINING ©
i FOYER’
qzeue) | 12'-0" X 13'-0" )
4
(12, CLG)

DOUBLE GARAGE
20'-6" X 20'-0"

Plan #241008
Images provided by
Dimensions: 65' W x 56'8" D designer/architect.
Copyright by
Levels: 1 designer/architect.
Square Footage: 2,526
ATTIC
Bedrooms: 4
Bathrooms: 3
Foundation: Slab, crawl space, |
Zig]
or basement
JWOH
SNV1d
Materials List Available: No
Price Category: E | 3
L

Deck

| — = Sf
| ; 5
Breakfast }—--- Ay
| ‘92x16 ——
Sunken { D
Great Room = 2
1610 x21 sts |H |

oS . :
=F Dining Room a Main Level
“~~ |Z 16x 11-8 | i
> = Floor Plan

| Two-car Garage
| 21 x 20-8

Plan #161016 | |
|

59-4" = 2 a!
‘=
Dimensions: 59'4" W x 58'8" D
Copyright by designer/architect. 4
Levels: 2 Bedroom
Images provided by 15x 10-8

Square Footage: 2,101 designer/architect.

Main Level Sq. Ft.: 1,626 Great Room

Below i

Upper Level Sq. Ft.: 475

Bedrooms: 3 Foyer Below

Bathrooms: 2'/,
Foundation: Basement
Rear
Materials List Available: Yes Elevation
Price Category: D Upper Level
Floor Plan

www.ultimateplans.com
 Great Rm gq
2278xI6=10
vaulted clg

Plan #321003
Images provided by
Dimensions: 67'4" W x 48' D
designer/architect.
Levels: 1
Square Footage: 1,/91
Bedrooms: 4
Bathrooms: 2 Copyright by designer/architect.

Foundation: Basement
Materials List Available: Yes
Price Category: C

L6=On =
—s~
j - ae a :
L», Brk — f
| MBr open to below
<>)y Dn
M-8x13-0 |
I4=OxI15s5 =

Great Rm |
16-4x24-2

O° vaulted
I

. Garage
23-4x29-4

ee Be. (Sealer eater ect

Plan #321006 vaulted =f Copyright by

Vv designer/architect.
Dimensions: 76' W x 45' D
Levels: 1, optional lower Images provided by
Square Footage: 1,977 designer/architect. Se :

Te - Mas
Optional Basement Level Br 5 = Atrium 5 i

Sq. Ft.: 1,416 15-3x15-6 ea 4

Bedrooms: 4 Optional
Bathrooms: 2'/ Basement Level _ "!! Family
18-4x23-6
Foundation: Basement Floor Plan | Ir
: storage

Materials List Available: Yes |} 1-5xl2-7 =

Price Category: D
storage y

orde ‘ect: 1-800-523-6789

 Master
Bedroom

Breakfast
12-0x 11-0
Bedroom 3
12-0 x 12-0
9-0 Ceiling

Two Car
Garage
24-0 x 22-0

Bedroom 2
12-0 x 12-0 Covered Porch
9-0 Ceiling 14-4x5 12-0 x 12-0
9-0 Ceiling

Plan #351001
Dimensions: 72'8" W x 51' D Images provided by
designer/architect.
Levels: 1
Square Footage: 1,855
farD Fi,Ke
Bedrooms: 3 a/ kay
“AIL ae
Bathrooms: 2
io
Foundation: Basement, crawl space,
140x220 !3
or slab 8-0 FlatCeiling |5
18
ees
Materials List Available: Yes |
i| | JWOH
SNV1d
| t-— . --4
Price Category: D |
|
|
|
|| EXTENSION OF BONUS IF
|| BASEMENT FOUNDATION'S
il
|
|
|
CHOSEN
Seestiins F is | t___ JL === ___|
Kitchen/ Great Room aS

w
Garde O|'|© Covered Porch
Tub, M. Bath VAULT 23-0 x 5-0
/45-0x 10-0 Master i Bedroom 2
Bedroom ails P V 12-0 x 12-0
9-0 Ceiling
a Kit h
a
14-6 x 16-0 itchen
42-0.%44-0 Eating
{
mat A VAULT Island | 11-0 x 11-0
cea 9-0 Ceiling E Cc
L SW
Hall |
ye F | Utility Entry g 3 Bath a3

8-0x7-0 | 96x80 c o © :
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12-0 x 12-0
9-0 Celling
Covered Porch
21-0 x 22-0 23-0 x 4-0
Dimensions: 64' W x 45'10" D Images provided by
designer/architect.
Levels: 1 Copyright by designer/architect.

Square Footage: 1,751 OPTIONAL GARAGE EXTENSION NOT

INCLUDED IN OVERALL DIMENSIONS)
Bedrooms: 3 I! OPTIONAL EX
il IF BASEMENT
Bathrooms: 2
Foundation: Basement, crawl space,
or slab
Materials List Available: Yes
Price Category: C

www.ultimateple com
 DSR
A ESOS SCEN ID

Resource Guide
The following list ofmanufacturers and associations 1s meant to
be a general guide to additional industry and product-related
sources. It is not intended as a listing of products and manufac-
turers represented by the photographs in this book.

APA - The Engineered Wood Association

7011 South 19th
Tacoma, WA 98466
253-565-6600
~www.apawood.org
APA is a nonprofit trade association that works to pro- International Code Council
mote the growth of the engineered wood industry. The — 5993 Leesburg Pike, Suite 600
company’s Web site has information about engineered Falls Church, VA 22041
wood products, including technical reports and com- 703-931-4533
prehensive market studies. www.iccsafe.org
The International Code Council provides the construc-
tion codes and standards that are used on job sites
throughout the country. By combining the efforts of
various regional code organizations, ICC has created a
universal set of requirements for construction in the
United States.

NAHB - National Association of Home Builders

1201 15th St., NW
Washington, DC 20005
800-368-5242
www.nahb.org
Trade association that helps promote the policies that
make housing a national priority. Find more informa-
tion at the organization’s Web site.

AWCI - The Association of the Wall and

Ceiling Industries International
803 West Broad St., Suite 600
Falls Church, VA 22046
703-534-8300
WWW.aWCL.Org
AWCI provides services and undertakes activities that
enhance the ability of contractors to operate successful
businesses.
 229
RESOURCE GUIDE

Senco Products, Inc.

8485 Broadwell Rd.
Cincinnati, OH 45244
800-543-4596
www.senco.com
Manufacturer of air-powered fastening tools. Visit the
company’s Web site to view its line of pneumatic tools,
or to locate a dealer.

Southern Forest Products Association

P.O. Box 641700
Kenner, LA 70064
504-443-4464
www.sfpa.org
SFPA works to develop and expand market opportuni-
ties for Southern Pine forest products. Visit the Web
site for industry statistics, or to sign up for their weekly
newsletter.

Timber Framers Guild

P.O. Box 60
Becket, MA 01223
Trim-Tex
888-453-0879
3700 W. Pratt Ave.
www.tfguild.org
Lincolnwood, IL 60712-2508
The organization is dedicated to establishing training
800-874-2333
programs for timber framers, disseminating informa-
www.trim-tex.com
tion about timber framing, and generally promoting
Manufactures and distributes vinyl drywall beads and
the craft.
drywall finishing accessories. Visit the company’s Web
site for a catalog and gallery.

Werner Co.
93 Werner Rd.
Greenville, PA 16125-9499
724-588-8600
www.wernerladder.com
Supplies aluminum, wood, and fiberglass ladders, step
stools, and ladder accessories, such as planks and plat-
forms. See the company’s Web site for a photo gallery
of their products in action.

Wolmanized Wood
Arch Wood Protection, Inc.
1955 Lake Park Dr., Suite 100
Smyrna, GA 30080
866-789-4567
www.wolmanizedwood.com
Manufactures various forms of treated lumber for diverse
projects. Read more about their offerings at their Web site.
 ee

Glossary
Actual dimension (lumber) The exact Batter board A level board attached Cantilever Joists projecting from a wall
cross-sectional measurements of a piece to stakes and used to position string in to create a porch or balcony floor with-
of lumber after it has been cut, surfaced, foundation and footing outlines. Notches out supports.
and dried. in batter boards determine the position
of foundation guideline strings. Carriage bolt A bolt with a slotless
Actual length (rafters) Length of a round head and a square shoulder
rafter after half the thickness of the Bay window A window, typically below the head that embeds itself into
ridgeboard has been subtracted. three sided, that projects from a wall, the wood as the nut is tightened.
creating a recessed area in the struc-
Air-dried lumber Wood seasoned by ture’s interior. Also called an oriel. Caulk Tube-delivered plastic-and-sili-
exposure to the air without use of artifi- con substance that cures quickly and is
cial heat. Beam A steel or wood member installed used to seal gaps in wood to prevent air
horizontally to support some aspect of a or water leakage.
Allowable span Distance allowed be- structure’s load.
tween two contact points for load-sup- Cedar shingles Tapered 16- to 18-inch-
porting lumber such as rafters, girders, Beam hanger A metal pocket- or shelf- long pieces of western cedar used for
beams, and joists. like hanger that supports a beam where shims, siding, or roofing.
it butts into another member.
Anchor bolt Bolt set in concrete or Check (in lumber) A defect in lumber
held in place by friction or epoxy that Bevel An angled surface not at 90 de- caused by a separation lengthwise be-
is used to fasten lumber, columns, grees, typically cut into the edge of a tween the wood’s growth rings.
girders, brackets, or hangers to con- piece of lumber. Also a tool for making
crete or masonry walls. such an angle. Chords In triangular trusses, the wood
members that form the two sides of the
Angle iron Structural steel bent at Bird’s mouth The notch cut near the roof and the triangle’s base.
90 degrees and used for fastening a tail end of a rafter where it fits on a cap
range of framing connections. plate or horizontal framing member. Cleat A small board fastened to a sur-
face to provide support for another
Asphalt shingle Shingles made of felt Blocking 1) Horizontal blocks inserted board, or any board nailed onto another
that has been soaked in asphalt; as- between studs every 10 vertical feet to board to strengthen or support it.
phalt shingle tabs are coated with defeat the spread of fire. 2) Lumber
granular minerals. added between studs, joists, rafters, or Clinching The practice of driving an
other members to provide a nailing sur- overlong nail through two boards and
Attic The space between the rafters and face for sheathing or other material. bending the protruding end over.
the ceiling joists.
Board-and-batten siding A siding Code The rules set down by various re-
Backfill Soil or gravel used to fill in be- style that uses long siding boards in- gional code bodies that specify mini-
tween a finished foundation and the stalled vertically, right next to one an- mum building practices.
ground excavated around it. other, with the gaps between them
covered by one-by or two-by battens. Collar tie A horizontal board installed
Backing (hip rafter) Bevel cut along rafter to rafter for extra stiffness.
the crown edge of a hip rafter that allows Board foot Unit of volume for a piece of
plywood from opposing roofs to meet at wood 12 inches square and 1 inch thick. Column A wood or metal vertical sup-
a clean angle flush with the rafter. port member.
Bottom plate The horizontal plate at
Barge rafters The last outside rafters of the base of a wall. Common length in jack rafters The
a structure. They are usually nailed to amount that jack rafters increase or de-
outriggers and form the gable-end over- Bridging Wood blocks installed in an crease in length as they run between
hangs. Sometimes called flying rafters. X-shape between floor joists to stabilize two angled rafters or an angled rafter
and position the joists. and a top plate.
Batt insulation A mineral fiber mate-
rial, delivered in rolls and typically Built-up beam or girder A beam or Common rafter Rafter in a gable-type
paper- or foil-faced, that is installed in girder made of smaller component roof that runs from the ridge to the dou-
stud bays to provide insulation. parts—for example, nailing together ble top plates.
three 212s for a “built-up” beam.
Batten Narrow one-by or two-by wood Composite board Panel material simi-
strips that typically cover vertical joints Butt joint The junction where the ends lar to plywood but made up of reconsti-
between siding boards in board-and- of two pieces of lumber or other mem- tuted wood particles at its core and
batten siding. bers meet in a square-cut joint. sometimes softwood veneer on its faces.
 GLOSSARY

Core The middle veneer layer in ply- Eaves The part of a roof that projects Frieze board Trim board nailed hori-
wood or the center section of material in beyond its supporting walls to create zontally on a building wall directly be-
a composite panel. an overhang. neath rafters to provide a nailing
surface for soffits and cornice trim.
Corner boards One-by or two-by Elevation The same as height. When
boards nailed vertically to the corners of referred to in transit use, the height Frost line The maximum depth to
a building that serve as a stopping point above or below a transit instrument. which soil freezes in the winter. Frost
for siding and as an architectural feature. lines change regionally.
End grain The end of a crosscut piece
Cornice Also called roof overhang, the of wood. Furring strips Narrow one-by or two-
part of the roof that overhangs the wall. by wood strips used be create space
Expansion bolt A bolt used to anchor for example, between ceilings and
Cricket A small gable-like structure in- lumber to masonry walls. The jacket of ceiling joists or between insulated walls
stalled on a roof to divert water, usually an expansion bolt expands to grip the and masonry walls.
from a chimney. side walls of a pilot hole due to wedge
pressure at its base or the wedge force Gable roof A triangular-shaped roof.
Cripple studs Short studs that stand of a bolt screwed into it.
vertically between a header and top Gable end The triangular section at the
plate or between a bottom plate and Facade The exterior front of a building. ends of gable roofs.
the underside of a rough sill.
Face-nailing Nailing perpendicularly Gambrel roof A roof design common
Crosscuts Cuts made width-wise, or through the surface of lumber. on barns and utility buildings that com-
across the grain of lumber. bines two gable roofs of differing slopes.
Factory edge The edge finish put on Sometimes mistakenly called Dutch
Crown The natural bow along the edge wood and panels at the mill. Colonial-style roof.
of a joist, rafter, stair stringer, or other
member. It should almost always be Fascia One-by or two-by trim piece Gauge A measurement of wire thick-
placed facing up. nailed onto the end grain or tail end of ness. The higher the gauge, the thinner
a rafter to form part of a cornice. the wire.
Cup A distortion in wood across the
grain caused by warpage. Fiberglass Spun glass fibers used in Girder A horizontal wood or steel
insulation and roof shingles. member used to support some aspect of
Dead load The weight of the building a framed structure. Also called a beam.
components, including lumber, roofing, Finishing nail A smooth nail witha
windows, doors, and flooring. tiny round head, normally set below the Girder pocket The let-in and seat cre-
surface of finished wood with a coun- ated in a foundation wall in which a
Deflection The bending of wood due tersink tool, or nail set. girder sits.
to live and dead loads.
Fire blocking Horizontal blocking in- Glue-laminated lumber Stacked di-
Diagonal bracing 1) Braces running stalled between studs to defeat the up- mension lumber glued together to
from corner to corner used to stiffen ward progress of fire. create a beam.
walls and prevent racking. 2) Braces
nailed off to cleats or stakes to support Flakeboard The same as particleboard. Grade 1) The identification class of
a standing wall. lumber quality. 2) Ground level. The
Flashing Thin aluminum or copper slope of the ground on a building site.
Door sill The same as a threshold. A strips or coil stock used to bridge any
piece of lumber beveled along each edge space between roof and framing, shin- Ground-fault circuit interrupter
and nailed to a floor to cover a floor joint gles and framing, or windows / doors (GFCI) A device that detects a ground
or to mark a door passageway. and any part of the structure. Also, the fault or electrical line leakage and imme-
metal strips used to protect corners and diately shuts down power.
Dormer A shed- or doghouse-like valleys in roof construction.
structure that projects from a roof and Gusset plates Metal or plywood plates
can add space to an attic. Floor plans Drawings that give a plan used to hold the chords and webs of a
view (bird’s-eye view) of the layout of truss together.
Double top plate The double tier of each floor of a building.
two-by lumber running horizontally Gypsum board See “Drywall.”
on top of and nailed to wall studs. Footing The base, usually poured con-
crete, on which a foundation wall is Hardwood Wood that comes from de-
Drip edge A metal piece bent to fit built. With a pressure-treated wood ciduous trees.
over the edge of roof sheathing, de- foundation, a gravel or soil footing
may be used. Header The built-up horizontal framing
signed to shun rain.
member that runs above rough openings
Drywall Gypsum sandwiched between Framing anchor Metal straps, pockets, to assume the loads that would have
treated paper. Used as an interior cov- or supports used to reinforce or otherwise been carried by the studs that
ering material. Also called gypsum strengthen joints between wood fram- have been removed or omitted below to
board or wallboard. ing members. create the opening.
Zaz
GLOSSARY

Heartwood The part of the wood be- Live load All the loads in a building Prehung door A door that’s already set
tween the pith and the sapwood. not part of the structure—furniture, in a jamb, with hinges (and sometimes
people, snow, wind. a lockset) preinstalled, ready to be in-
Heel (rafter) When a rafter is in posi- stalled in a rough opening.
tion at pitch, the end grain of a rafter Masonry wall A wall made of con-
closest to the rafter’s underside. crete, cinderblock, or brick. Pressure treatment A factory process
of using pressure to force preservatives
Hip jack rafter A rafter that runs from Mastic A thick, pasty adhesive. into wood.
a top plate to a hip rafter.
Miter box A hardwood open-topped Pump jack A working platform system
Hip rafter A rafter that runs at a 45 de- square box with precut cut lines to that is raised and lowered along vertical
gree angle from the end of a ridge toa guide angled or square saw cuts. 4x4s using a pumping action.
corner of a building.
Moisture content (in wood) The Quartersawn lumber Lumber milled
Hip roof A roof that has a central ridge amount of water contained in wood, ex- from quartered logs, typically very sta-
and that slopes in all four directions. pressed as a percentage of the dry ble, close-grained wood.
weight of wood.
I-beam A beam, typically steel, with a Rafter table The table of rafter lengths
vertical middle section and flat webs on Mudsill Same as sill plate. and cut angles found etched in the side
the top and bottom. of a framing square.
O.C. An abbreviation for “on center.”
Incline (roof) Same as pitch. Rebar Short for “reinforcement bar.”
Oriented-strand board (OSB) Panel Metal bars laid in a grid used to rein-
Jack rafters Short rafters that run be- material made of wood strands pur- force concrete.
tween a rafter and a top plate or be- posely aligned for strength and bonded
tween two rafters. by phenolic resin. Resilient flooring Flooring that has
memory and returns to its original
Jack stud See “Trimmer stud.” Overhang The part of the tail end of a shape after it is indented, usually
rafter that projects beyond the building made of vinyl and available in large
Jamb The finished frame of a doorway. line. Often it’s enclosed by a soffit. sheets or smaller tiles.

Joist Framing lumber placed on edge Particleboard Panel material made R (resistance, in insulation) The
horizontally, to which subfloors or ceil- from wood chips and flakes held to- measure of a substance’s resistance to
ings are attached. gether by resin. heat flow. An R-value is a number as-
signed to thermal insulation. The higher
Joist hanger Bracket used to strength- Partition wall A nonload-bearing wall the number, the better the insulation.
en the connection between a joist and a built to divide up interior space.
piece of lumber into which it butts. Ridge The highest point of a roof.
Penny Abbreviation: d. Unit of mea-
Kerf A shallow slot cut into a piece of surement for nail length, such as a 10d Ridgeboard The horizontal board that
lumber usually measured by the width nail, which is 3 inches long. defines the roof’s highest point, or ridge.
of the saw blade.
Pier (concrete) A round or square con- Ridge cut The cut at the uphill end of a
Keyway A flat-bottomed notch or in- crete base used to support columns, rafter, along the ridge plumb line, that
dentation created at the top of a footing posts, girders, or joists. allows the rafter’s end grain to sit flush
to allow foundation walls to interlock. against the ridgeboard.
Pilot hole A hole drilled before a screw
Kiln-dried lumber Wood dried ina is inserted to defeat splitting. Rim joists Joists that define the outside
kiln, or a large oven, rather than by nat- edges of a platform. Joists that run per-
ural air currents. Pitch (roof) Loosely, the slope or angle pendicular to floor joists and are end-
of a roof; technically, the rise of a roof nailed to joist end grains are known as
Lag screw A large screw with a point- over its span. header joists. Also called band joists.
ed tip and a hex head.
Plates Horizontal two-by lumber at the Rip To cut wood in the same direction
Lally column A steel pipe usually filled top and bottom of a wall, or any hori- as the grain.
with concrete and used as a support col- zontal lumber at the base of a wall.
umn beneath girders and beams. Rise In a roof, the vertical distance be-
Platform framing The framing method tween the supporting wall’s cap plate
Ledger A horizontal board attached to that builds walls, one story at a time, on and the point where a line, drawn
a beam or other member and used as a top of platforms that are built on joists. through the outside edge of the cap plate
shelf-like support for lumber that butts and parallel to the roof’s slope, intersects
against the beam. Plumb Vertically straight. A line 90 de- the centerline of the ridgeboard.
grees to a level line.
Level A hand tool for checking that any Rough sill The horizontal framing
piece is perfectly horizontal or vertical. Plywood A wood panel composed of member that defines the underside of
Also a term meaning horizontal. cross-laminated veneer layers. a window’s rough opening.
 No
GLOSSARY

Run In a roof with a ridge, the horizon- Sliding T-bevel An adjustable pivot- Total rise The ridge height of a roof
tal distance between the edge of an out- ing straightedge that can be set at a measured from the top plate of the
side wall’s cap plate and the centerline number of different angles. Also some- structure’s wall.
of the ridgeboard. times called a bevel square.
Total run One half the building span.
Sapwood The living wood near the Slope The rise of a roof over its run, ex-
outside of a tree trunk that carries sap. pressed as the number of inches of rise Transit A telescope mounted on a
per unit of run (usually 12 inches). For swiveling plate that can view a perfect-
Scab A short piece of wood nailed on example: 6 in 12 means a roof rises ly level line 360 degrees once it has it-
the face of two boards where they join 6 inches for every 12 inches of run. self been leveled.
to help position or strengthen them.
Soffit The board that runs the length of Trim One-by lumber used as siding
Scaffold A temporary working plat- a wall, spanning between the wall and corner boards or as finish materials
form and the structure that supports it. the fascia on the underside of the rafters around windows and doors, under
eaves, or around cornices.
Scarf joint Where the end grain of two Sole plate Same as sill plate.
pieces of lumber meet in the same plane Trimmer joist A second joist added to
at a 45-degree angle. Span Distance between supports, such reinforce a floor joist that defines a
as the outside walls of a building ora rough opening in floors.
Seat cut (rafter) The horizontal cut in structural wall and a beam.
a bird’s mouth that fits on a top panel Trimmer rafter A second rafter added
or horizontal framing member. Staging Same as scaffold. to reinforce a rafter that defines a rough
opening in roofs.
Shakes Same as cedar shingles, but Staple Hand or pneumatically driven
rougher in texture because they are U-shaped metal fastener used to hold Trimmer stud Stud that runs from the
split rather than sawn. shingles, roofing, and finished wood bottom plate to the underside of a head-
in place. er. Also called jack stud.
Shear wall A wall, typically covered
with carefully nailed plywood, that is Story pole A piece of lumber (usually Underlayment Highly stable, often
designed to resist lateral force. a 2x4) marked off in required dimen- water-resistant veneer-type panel ma-
sions to determine stair-height layouts terial (a kind of plywood) installed on
Sheathing Panel material, typically and other elevations. top of a subfloor but beneath resilient
plywood, applied to the outside of a flooring or other finish floor material.
structure on which siding is installed. Stud Vertically standing two-by lumber
that extends from the bottom plate to Unit rise Number of inches a common
Shed roof A roof that slopes in one di- the top plate of a stud wall. rafter will rise vertically for every
rection only. 12 inches of run.
Subfloor Structurally rated plywood
Shim A thin wedge of plastic or wood or oriented-strand-board decking in- Unit run Unit of the total run, based on
(typically cedar) used as blocking to stalled on sleepers or joists. 12 inches for common rafters and 17
level or plumb doors, windows, and inches for hip rafters.
framing lumber. Tail (rafter) The base, or downhill end,
of a rafter. Valley jack rafter A rafter that extends
Siding Finish material applied to the from a valley rafter to a ridge.
outside of a building, either on top of Tail cut The plumb or square cut at the
the sheathing or directly nailed into tail end of the rafter. Valley rafter A rafter that extends
studs and blocks. from a ridge to an intersecting corner of
Theoretical rafter length The rafter a building or to another rafter.
Sill (window) The piece of wood at the length before it is shortened to accom-
bottom of a window frame, typically modate ridgeboard thickness. Veneer A thin piece or section of wood,
angled to shun water. typically a layer of plywood.
Timber Lumber pieces, larger than a
Sill anchor Threaded metal anchors nominal 44, typically used as columns Waferboard Panel material made from
set in concrete to which mudsills are or beams. wood wafers bonded with an exterior-
attached with washers and nuts. grade resin.
Toe-nailing Driving a nail at an angle
Sill plate The horizontal two-by lum- into the face of a board so it penetrates Waler Horizontal lumber pieces used
ber attached directly to the masonry another board beneath or above it. to span or stiffen walls.
foundation on which stand the build-
ing’s walls. Same as sole plate and Tongue and groove (T&G) Boards that Wallboard See “Drywall.”
mudsill. have a groove on one edge and a tongue
on the other so that other similar boards Warp Uneven shrinkage in wood caus-
Slab-on-grade Monolithic concrete can fit into one another along their edges. ing bending or twisting.
foundation that serves as both the
building’s first floor and the structure’s Top plate The horizontal two-by board Web (truss) The truss’s inner members
perimeter footings. nailed to the top of wall studs. that tie together the chords.
SESE EF NPE OCT ARIEIT DRED ETE PSE TET OBE TTP

Index
A Bird’s mouth cut, 124, 146 Ceilings
Abbreviations on blueprints, 34 Blocking, 84 basement, 197-98
Air-dried lumber, 15 installing, 85 drywall, 197-98
Aluminum ladders, 47 Blueprints, 31-32, 32-34, 217-27 exposed ridge beams for cathedral,
Anchor bolts, 56-58, 78 abbreviations on, 34 154
extended, 110 dimensions on, 33 Chipboard, 18
self-drilling, 58 door sections on, 36 Chromated copper arsenate (CCA), 16
Anti-kickback saw blades, 43, 67 elevation on, 34 Circular saws, 42-43, 65
Appearance grades, 20 floor plans, 34 avoiding kickback, 67
Architectural-grade beams, 20 lines on, 32-33 choosing blade, 65
Ascender-type rope grab, 52 ordering, 217-27 cutting lumber and plywood, 65-67
Asphalt shingles, 140 utility symbols on, 33 making square cuts, 65
Awning windows, 113 wall symbols on, 33-34 safe use of, 64-65
window sections on, 36 Clinching, 64
Bolts, 59 tools for, 193
Balloon framing, 94 anchor, 56-58 Collar ties, 28
Balusters, 191 carriage, 59 Columns, 26
installing, 177-78 epoxy, 58 installing, 78-80
Balustrades, 174-78, 190 extended anchor, 110 post attachment and, 80
establishing centerline, 174 friction-held, 57-58 Combination blades, 65
Basement floors, 199-201 latch, 117 Combination square, 40
Basement framing, 192-205 rail, 176 Composite board, 18
ceilings, 197-98 self-drilling anchor, 58 Concrete slab, 73
estimating materials, 193 Boxing around post, 203 Connectors, 20
walls, 193-97 Brickmold, installing windows with, choosing right, 82
Basement-wall foundation, 74-75 114-15 hurricane ties and, 54-56
Bay window, 206-15 Bridging, 84 missing, 136
building roof, 210 installing, 84-85 Cordless drills, 44
floor-support alternatives, 210 Building codes, 103, 228 Corners
framing for, 207-9 Building loads, 24-26 marking plates for inside, 97-98
installing roof framing, 211-12 defining, 24 marking plates for outside, 98-99
trimming out bottom of window, 212 deflection, 24 nailing, 99
Beams, 28-29 paths, 24-26 stud configuration for, 97
architectural-grade, 20 Building plans, 31-36 Crawl-space foundation, 73
bearing, 29 Bump-out, 207, 210 Cripple studs, 95, 100-101
cantilevered, 31 Crosscut blades, 65
concealing, 201-2 Le Crosscuts, 65-67
exposed ridge, 154 Cantilevered joists, 88-89 Cut lines, drawing, 62
|, 76-77, 80-8] Cantilevers, 31
industrial-grade, 20 Cap plate, 109 D
nonbearing, 29 Carriage bolts, 59 Deadbolt, 117
premium-grade, 20 Casement windows, 113 Dead load, 24
steel |-, 77-78 Casing nails, 115 Deck screws, 59
wood I-, 2]—22 Cathedral ceilings, exposed ridge Deflection, 24
Bearing beams, 29 beams for, 154 Digital level, 39-40
Bearing walls, misaligned, 25-26 Cat's paw, 42 Dimension lumber, 13
 Nw c oi
INDEX

Dimensions on blueprints, 33 Fiberglass shingles, 140 rafter tables on, 149

Door frame, 118 Finger-jointing, 20 Framing tools, 37-44
Doors Finishing of stairs, 186 hand tools, 41-42
on blueprints, 36 Fire blocking, 103 levels, 39-40
flush, 117 Fixed windows, 112 marking tools, 41
installing prehung, 117 Flakeboard, 18 measuring tools, 38-39
marking rough openings for, 101 Flashing, installing, 139 power tools, 42-44
panel, 117 Floating floor, installing, 201 safety equipment and, 38
prehung exterior, 117 Floor(s) squares, 40
Dormers, 157-63 avoiding spongy, 9] Freeze-thaw cycles, 73
building shed, 161-63 basement, 199-201 Friction-held bolts, 57-58
gable, 157, 158-61 installing floating, 201 Frost heaving, 73
shed, 157, 161-63 Floor framing, 72-92 Full-body harnesses, 50, 52
Double-hung windows, 112-13 lally-column installation, 78
Drills, 44 steel beams, 77-78 G
cordless, 44 structural support, 73-76 Gable dormers, 157, 158-61
Drip edge, 140 wood girders, 77 building, 158-61
Drywall ceiling, installing, 197-98 Flooring. See also Subflooring Gable-roof framing, 121-42
Drywall jacks, 198 accommodating ductwork, plumbing, calculating rafter length, 123-30
Drywall screws, 113 or wiring in, 86 installing flashing, 139
Ducts, concealing, 201-2 engineered, 200 installing ridgeboards and rafters,
Ductwork, accommodating, in flooring, laminate, 200 130-34
86 Floor joists, 27, 81-89 pitch and slope, 122-23
Dust mask, 38 installing, 82-83 roof loads, 122
preparing girders and |-beams for, roof sheathing, 138, 140-42
E 80-8] skylights, 137
Elevation on blueprints, 34 rough openings in, 87 trusses, 134-36
End-nailing, 63 span ratings, 26 Gable roofs, 143
Engineered flooring, 200 Floor plans on blueprints, 34 Gambrel roofs, 143, 153-56
Engineered lumber, 20-22 Floor-support alternatives, 207 assembling, 156
glue-laminated, 20-21 Flush door, 117 laying out, 155
laminated-veneer, 21 Fold-up ladders, 46 Girders, 28
parallel-strand, 21 45-degree angles, drawing, 124 preparing, for floor joists, 80-8 1
steel studs, 22 Foundations Glue-laminated lumber, 20-21
wood |-beams, 21-22 basementwall, 74-75 appearance grades, 20
Engineering basics, 23-36 crawl-space, 73 connectors, 20
beams, rafters, and collar ties, pier, 76 residential grade, 20
27-3) slab-on-grade, 210 Grade stamps, 15-16
building loads, 24-26 wood, 76 Grading
building plans, 31-36 Framing dormers, 157-63 air-dried lumber, 15
Epoxy bolts, 58 Framing hammer, 41 grade stamps, 15-16
Expansion shields, 58 Framing hardware, 53-60 kiln-dried lumber, 15
Exposed ridge beams for cathedral anchor bolts, 56-58 moisture content, 15
ceilings, 154 bolts, 59 native green lumber, 15
Exposure, 19 connectors and hurricane ties, 54-56 pressuretreated lumber, 16
Extended anchor bolts, 110 nails, 54 structural grade, 15
Extension ladders, 46 screws, 09-60 Guard rails, 50
staples, 60
Framing materials, 12-22
Face-nailing, 63 Framing members, drilling and Hammer
Fall-arrest systems, 50-52 notching, 28 framing, 41
Fiberglass ladders, 47 Framing square, 40, 170-71 handling your, 68
236
INDEX

Handrail, installing, 175-77 ratings of, 47 for outside corners, 98-99

Handsaw, 42 safe use, 47 Marking tools, 41
Hand tools, 41-42 step, 46 Masonry, attaching vapor barrier to,
Hardboard, 92 wooden, 47 193-94
Hardwood, 13 Ladder stand-off, 47-48 Measuring
Headers, 29-3 1 Lag screws, 59 accuracy in, 62-63
installing joists, 83, 87 Lally-column installation, 78 tools for, 38-39, 62
span table for, 30 Laminated-veneer lumber, 21 Measuring tape, 38-39, 62
Head jamb, 118 Laminate flooring, 200 Milled dimensions, 14
Hearing protection, 38 Latch bolt, 117 Milling methods, 14
Heartwood, 13-14 Lean-to-roofs, 143 plainsawn lumber, 14
Hip-rafter overhang, 151 Levels, 39-40 quartersawn lumber, 14
Hip roofs, 143, 146-52 digital, 39-40 Mill number, 19
beginning, 147-48, 150 spirit, 39 Misaligned bearing walls, 25-26
installing jack rafters, 151-52 torpedo, 40 Misplaced struts, 25
Hold-down anchor, 110 water, 40 Moisture content, 15
Homemade ladders, 47-48 Lines on blueprints, 32-34 in grading lumber, 14-15
Howe truss, 134 Live load, 24
Hurricane ties, connectors and, 54-56 Load-bearing cantilevers, 89
Load-bearing LB structural studs, 22 Nailing
i Load paths, 24-26 basics of, 63-64
|-beams, 76-77 Locksets, 117-20 end, 63
preparing, for floor joists, 80-8 1 installing, 119-20 face, 63
steel, 77-78 Long tape, 39 tight-quarters, 202
wood, 21-22 L-shaped stairs, 179 tips for, 142
Industrial-grade beams, 20 Lumber. See also Wood Nail pouch, 42
air-dried, 15 Nails, 54
J common problems, 16-18 blunting points of, 54
Jack studs, 95 dimension, 13 casing, 115
J-bolts, 57, 78 engineered, 20-22 choosing right, 54
Joist hangers, sizing correctly, 54 fighting crooked, 69 as pilot bits, 115
Joists glue-laminated, 20-21 popping of, 17
cantilevered, 88-89 juvenile wood, 17 removing cleanly, 153
floor, 27, 81-89 kiln-dried, 15 removing finishing, 118
tapering, 83 laminated-veneer, 21 sizing, 54
Juvenile wood, 17 nail popping and, 17 starting, 67
native green, 15 starting hard-to-hold, 161
K parallel-strand, 21 Nail wax, drilling for, 114
Kickback, 67 plainsawn, 14 National evaluation report (NER), 19
Kiln-dried lumber, 15 pressure-treated, 16 Native green lumber, 15
King studs, 95, 102 quartersawn, 14 Needle-nose pliers, 161
shrinkage in, 16-17 Newels, 191
L sizing, 27 installing, 174-75
Ladder jacks, 48 strength of, 15 NLB drywall studs, 22
Ladder leveler, 48 troubleshooting problems, 68-69 Nonbearing beams, 29
Ladders, 46-50 veneer-core, 18 Nosings, adding, 189
accessories, 47-48 weather protection, 17-18
aluminum, 47 Lumber-core plywood, 18 0
extension, 46 Oriented-strand board (OSB), 18, 90,
fiberglass, 47 AL Sis
fold-up, 46 Marking plates Overhang
homemade, 47-48 for inside corners, 97-98 calculating, 127
 INDEX

creating, 125 Premium-grade beams, 20 making cuts, 130

framing gable-end, 133-34 Pressure-treated lumber, 16 power miter, 43
Pump jacks, 49-50 reciprocating, 43
P Pythagorean theorem, 151 using safely, 43-44
Panel doors, 117 Scaffolds, 50
Panel grade, 19 Q assembling, 50
Panel materials, lifting, 198 Quartersawn lumber, 14 Screws, 59-60
Panel products, rating Quick-set framing, 97 Screw’s gauge, 59
exposure, 19 Seat cut, marking, 129-30
mill number, 19 R Seismic anchors, 55-56, 110
panel grade, 19 Rafters, 27-28 Seismic bracing, 109-10
span rating, 19 calculating length of, 123-30 Self-drilling anchor bolts, 58
thickness, 19 installing, 130-34 Shear load, 24
veneer grades, 19 marking length of, 128 Sheathing, 110-12
Parallel-strand lumber, 21 span ratings of, 27 installing, 111-12
Particleboard, 18, 92 Rafter tables, 125 Sheathing staples, 60
Partition walls, building, 195-97 on framing square, 149 Shed dormers, 157, 161-63
Performance-rated panel standard Rafter tails, marking, 128-29 building, 161-63
(PRPJ, 19 Rail bolts, 176 Shed rafters, marking, 144-45
Phillips bit, 59-60 Rails, installing wall, 177 Shed roofs, 143
Pier foundations, 76 Reciprocating saw, 43 framing, 144-46
Pilot bits, using nails as, 115 Residential grade, 20 installing rafters, 145-46
Plainsawn boards, 16 Respiratory protection, 38 Shingles
Plainsawn lumber, 14 Ridgeboards, installing, 130-34 asphalt, 140
Platform framing, 12, 94 Ridgeboard thickness, subtracting, 128 fiberglass, 140
floor system in, 72 Ridge cut, 124 installing, 140
Platform jacks, 48-50 Rip blades, 65 Shrinkage, 16-17
ladder jacks, 48 Risers, tightfit, 172 Side cuts, 149
pump jacks, 49-50 Roofing felt, laying, 140 Side rafter, 210
roof jacks, 49 Roof jacks, 49 Sill plates, 56, 75, 118
Pliers, needle-nose, 161 Roof loads, 122 attaching, to foundation, 74-75
Plumb cut, marking, 129 Roof pitch and slope, 122-23 Single-hung window, 113
Plumb-cut rafters, 210 Roof sheathing, 138, 140-42 Skylights, 137
Plumbing, accommodating, 113 Rough carpentry, 61 framing for, 137
in flooring, 86 Rough openings, 100-101 Slab-on-grade, 73
Plumb lines, marking, 62-63 in floor joists, 87 Slab-on-grade foundation, 210
Plumb walls, 107 framing, 87-88 Sliding T-bevel, 40
Plywood, 18-19, 92 marking plates for door, 101 Sliding windows, 113-14
cutting guide for, 66-67 marking plates for window, 100-101 Softwoods, 13, 17
lumber-core, 18 Soil pipes, concealing, 202
Pneumatic nailers, 44 S Soundproofing, 120
Point load, 24 Safety Southern Pine Inspection Bureau, 14
Post attachment, columns and, 80 with circular saw, 64-65 Span rating, 19
Posts ladders and, 47 Speed square, 40, 44
boxing around, 203 Safety equipment, 38 Spirit level, 39
cutting square, 79 Safety glasses, 38 Spongy floors, avoiding, 91
installing, 78-80 Sapwood, 13-14 Spread load, 24
Powder-actuated fastener (PAF), 193-94 Saturated organic base, 140 Springy floors, avoiding, 91
Power miter box, 102 Saw guides, 65 Squares, 40, 44
Power miter saw, 43 Saws, 42-43 Stairs, 167-9 1
Power tools, 42-44 circular, 42-43 adding nosings, 189
Prehung exterior doors, 117 hand, 42 assembling, 184-85
238
INDEX

balustrades, 174-78 Tight-quarters nailing, 202 Wall studs, 95

calculating rise and run, 179-81 Toenailing, 63, 133 Wall symbols on blueprints, 33-34
calculating staircase size, 167-69 Tool belt, 42 Water level, 40
design ideas for, 190-91 Torpedo level, 40 Weather protection, 17-18
finishing, 186 Treads, tightfit, 172 Weatherstripping, 118
framing landing, 181-82 Trimmer joists, installing, 87 Wedges, easy-cutting, 116
installing handrail, 175-77 Trimmers, 87 Western Wood Products Association, 14
installing newels, 174-75 Trimmer studs, 95, 102 Winders, 187
installing wall rails, 177 Trusses, 134-36 building basic, 187-89
L-shaped stairs, 179 erecting, 135-36 Winder staircase, 191
making stringers, 183-84 Windows, 112-16
staircase installation, 171-73 U awning, 113
straightrun, 167 Underlayment, 90, 92 bay, 206-15
stringer layout, 170-71] installing, 92 casement, 113
Staples, 60 nailing schedule, 92 double-hung, 112-13
Stationary windows, 112 types of, 92 fixed, 112
Steel |-beams, 77-78 Utility knife, 41 installing, with brickmold, 114-15
Steel studs, 22, 192 Utility symbols on blueprints, 33 installing flanged, 116
Steel-stud striping, 194 sections of, on blueprints, 36
Stepladders, 46 V single-hung, 113
Stepping off the length, 127-28 Valley rafters, laying out, 163 sliding, 113-14
Stops, 118 Vapor barrier, 199 stationary, 112
Strap-type connectors, 110 attaching to masonry, 193-94 Wiring, accommodating, 113
Strike plate, 118 Veneer-core lumber, 18 in flooring, 86
Stringers, making, 183-84 Veneer grades, 19 Wood. See also Lumber
Structural grade, 15 grading, 14-16
Struts, misplaced, 25 Ww milled dimensions, 14
Stud perimeter walls, building, 193-95 Waferboard, 18, 90 milling methods, 14
Studs Wall(s) working with, 13-14
configuration of, for corners, 97 basement, 193-97 Wood casings, 118
cripple, 95, 100-101 bearing stud perimeter, 193-95 Wooden ladders, 47
jack, 95 misaligned bearing, 25-26 Wood foundations, 76
king, 95, 102 partition, 195-97 Wood girders, 77
load-bearing LB structural, 22 plumb, 107 Wood |-beams, 21-22
marking for, 99 Wall assembly, 102-10 Wood-post installation, 79
sizing, 28 cutting and installing studs and Wood rule, 39
steel, 197 headers, 102-3 Wood screws, 59
trimmer, 95, 102 erecting walls, 105-6 Work gloves, 38
wall, 95 final plumbing and alignment of W-type truss, 134
Subflooring, 90-9 1 walls, 107-9
installing, 90 framing connectors, 109-10
installing insulated, 199-200 squaring and bracing walls, 103-5
Sway braces, installing, 132-33 Wall framing, 94-99
laying out plates, 95-97
T marking plates for inside corners,
Tacking, 64 97-98
Tail cut, 124 marking plates for outside corners,
Tail joists, installing, 88 98-99
T-brace, 198 nailing corners, 99
Thickness, 19 stud configuration for corners, 97
3-4-5 triangle, measuring with, 196 2x4s vs. 2x6s, 94-95
Threshold, 118 Wall rafter, 210
 CREDITS/ METRIC EQUIVALENTS

Metric Equivalents
Photo Credits Length
1 inch 25.4mm
1 foot 0.3048 m
T: Top; R: Right; B: Bottom; L: Left; C: Center 1 yard 0.9144 m
1 mile 1.61 km

p. 1: David Geer Area

1 square inch 645 mm
Da2; Southern Forest Products Association
1 square foot 0.0929 m*
pp. 6-7: (top row) David Geer; David Geer; David Geer; 1 square yard 0.8361 m
(R) Western Wood Products Association; (bottom 1 acre 4046.86 m

row) www.creatas.com; David Geer; Western 1 square mile 2.59 km?

Wood Products Association; David Geer; David Volume

Geer; David Geer 1 cubic inch 16.3870 cm*
1 cubic foot 0.03 m°
11: Kim Jin Hong Photo Studio 1 cubic yard 0.77 m”

12: Bonnie Sue Common Lumber Equivalents

Do: David Geer Sizes: Metric cross sections are so close to their
USS. sizes, as noted below, that for most purposes
37: APA-The Engineered Wood Association they may be considered equivalents.
45: David Geer
Dimensional 1x 2 19 x 38 mm
53: John Parsekian/CH lumber 1x4 19 x 89 mm
Dee?) 38 x 38 mm
61: Weyerhaeuser
2x4 38 x 89 mm
71: Brand X Pictures 2x16 38 x 140 mm
2Xas 38 x 184
mm
EDs APA-The Engineered Wood Association
2 0 38 x 235 mm
93: Southern Forest Products Association PEM 38 x 286 mm

121: David Geer Sheet 4x 8 ft. 1200 x 2400 mm

Southern Forest Products Association sizes 4 x 10 ft. 1200 x 3000 mm
143:
157: David Geer Sheet “in. 6mm
thicknesses % in. 9mm
165: www.indexstock.com 4 in. 12mm

166: David Geer Yin. 19 mm

CC
ES
DO
Oo 190:
Cmca
Om
VCO (T) Mark Lohman; (C) Bill Rothschild; Stud/joist 16in.o.c. 400 mm o.c.
(L) www.davidduncanlivingston.com spacing 24in.o.c. 600 mm o.c.

p. 191: (TL) www.davidduncanlivingston.com; (TR) Bill Capacity

1 fluid ounce 29.57 mL
Rothschild; (BR) www.davidduncanlivingston.com
| pint 473.18 mL
p. 192: Steel Framing Alliance 1 quart L141.
1 gallon SIDIL
p. 204: (T) Phillip H. Ennis, design: Siskin Vails, Inc.;
(BR) Phillip H.Ennis; (BL) Phillip H. Ennis, design: Weight
KJS Interiors; (LC) Phillip H. Ennis, design: Anne 1 ounce 28.35¢
1 pound 0.45kg
Cooper Interiors
Temperature
p. 205: Kraftmaid Cabinetry
Fahrenheit = Celsius x 1.8 + 32
p. 206: Andersen Windows Celsius = Fahrenheit — 32 x %

p. 213: (T) Jessie Walker; (C) www.davidduncanliv- Nail Size & Length
ingston.com; (B) Andersen Windows Penny Size Nail Length
2d 1
p. 214: (T) Mark Lohman; (B) Jessie Walker, design: Shea 3d ye

Lubeke; (L) Jessie Walker 4d 1A"

sd 1h"
res alte Andersen Windows
6d 2
p. 228: (T) David Geer; (B) Bill Rothschild; (L) American 7d 2"
Plywood Association 8d Be
9d 2A"
p. 229: (T) Southern Forest Pine Association 10d ole
back cover: (T) Brand X Pictures; (BL), (BC) Trus Joist 12d 3/4"
MacMillan; (BR) David Geer 16d 3/3
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