painting guide

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contents
Part 0 – References 3

Part 1 – Preparation 4

Part 2 – Sketch 7

Part 3 – Blending armour 10

Part 4 – The Base 12

Part 5 – Bones and Metals 15

Part 6 – La Finale 17
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Horrors VS Black Lions project

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Part 0 – References
Any paintjob starts from visual inspiration. We are going to paint a Noctis Horror, so I just search for pictures on
Google. It is very important to get a feel for the atmosphere and decide on the main idea of what you are going to
do. Never underestimate the importance of this step. And of course, you do not need to copy everything, you are
free to transform it into something new and put your own spin on it. (Photos 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4)

Photo 0.1 Photo 0.2 Photo 0.3 Photo 0.4

3
Part 1 – Preparation
Before painting the miniature, we need to prime it using Black Satin or Gloss primer. I use Vallejo Mecha Color
Black. If you want to use can primer, you can go with Citadel Chaos Black or anything similar with a matte finish

After priming I place the model on white background and take pictures of it. This will help me to understand where
to place lights and shadows later. (Photos 1, 2,3,4)

4 Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4

Part 1 – Preparation
You can play around with light sources and the
model’s position to make light bounce off it in
different ways. Once you decide on the
position of the light source, it is time to take
photos. Do not move the model or the lamp,
walk around the setup instead. Take photos
from different angles. I usually opt for4 angles
– front, back, right side, left side. Only rotate
the lamp for a back view photo if you must.

You do not have to religiously copy the light

and shadow placement, but this will help a lot.

Here is what my setup looks like (Photo 5), but

you can use your phone camera – this quality
will be more than enough.

5 Photo 5
Part 1 – Preparation
Last preparation step – preshade. I apply white
paint to parts of the mini that are exposed to
light in the photos. Those that are not remain
black.

6 Photo 6
Part 2 – Sketch
A sketch is a rough outline of where highlights and shadows are.. I am going to draw them, using my photos as
references.. You should do it fast, look at the result and make adjustments if needed. A rough sketch does not need
to perfect.

Note: Feel free to change the color ratios to your liking.

I begin by base coating and sketching the armor (Photo 7).

Trust the process, do not start painting the details on just yet. I
use 3 different colors -

1. 50% black + 50% vmc Dark Prussian Blue.

2. 5% black + 95% vmc Dark Prussian Blue.

3. 5% black + 50% vmc Dark Prussian Blue + 45% vgc

Turquoise.

*vmc stands for “Vallejo Model Color”

*vgc stands for “Vallejo Game Color”

7 Photo 7
Part 2 – Sketch
After this I apply a layer of base coat to all remaining elements. Base coat color is the darkest shadow color of a
particular part.

1. Red (Photo 8)
Note: While with bigger models and parts sketching is
4. Steel (Photo 10)
preferable, some details are too small to be painted at
40% Black + 30% vmc Flat Red SC Heavy Metal.
this stage. I am going to add them when I start layering..

+30% AK Magenta.
5. Bone (Photo 10)

2. Base (Photo 9)
40% Black + 30% vmc Emerald + Note: I prefer to paint the entire model as opposed to
70% Black + 30% vmc Emerald.
30% vmc Ger. C. Beige WWII painting each part one by one. It allows me to see the
3. Gold (Photo 9)
(70.821). whole picture at every step.
SC Necro Gold.

8 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10

Part 2 – Sketch
Once there are no unpainted elements, it is
time to look at the whole model and make
some changes. As you can see, the armor
does not have enough contrast, so I add
itThen I deepen the shadows with almost
pure black (Photo 11).

Note: This is what the sketch is meant for,

to quickly get a preview of the final look.
Do not be afraid to introduce changes. Be
prepared to make 2-3 iterations before you
get it right.

9 Photo 11
Part – 3 Blending armour
Note: Art is not a linear process. There is no strict order to the following steps as I go back and forth between
them, using different techniques.

Glazing is applying multiple thin layers of paint between two colors (or to the whole surface to tint it) in order to
create a smooth gradient. Dilute paint heavily with water (1:4), wipe 90% of water with paper, apply paint toa
transition.

What you need todo:

A. Glaze transitions.

B. Sketch to sharpen the contrast.

This is the most time-consuming part.
1. Slightly blend colors together with pure vmc
Dark Prussian Blue (Photo 12).

2. Sketch with 25% Dark Prussian Blue + 75% vgc

Turquoise and then with 25% vgc Turquoise +
75% vmc Ice Yellow (Photo 13).

10 Photo 12 Photo 13
Part – 3 Blending armour
3. Glaze with different mixtures of vmc Ice 4. Add chaos with some spots of Turquoise 5. Repeat steps 1-4 on different parts (Photos
Yellow, vgc Turquoise and Dark Prussian and Ice Yellow on the most exposed parts 16, 17).
Blue (Photo 14).
(Photo 15).

Photo 14 Photo 15 Photo 16 Photo 17

Armor is 90% complete now, but before finishing it, I prefer to paint all other elements and see if they work together.
And only after this, I finish the armor.

11
Part – 4 The Base
The base is the most fun part to do. I just slap paint on the base with an old, bristle brush. I do it chaotically, to
create random patterns.
1. First, I create and apply several shades by 2. Then, I mix vmc Emerald and vmc Ice 3. Finally, I apply 2 very thin glazes (1 part
mixing Black with and vmc Emerald. Ratios can Yellow. Same principle, with ratios from paint to 5 parts water) to the base to unify
be random, from 75% black and 25% Emerald 25% Emerald and 75% Ice Yellow to the palette. 50% Emerald + 50% AK Violet
to pure Emerald (Photo 18)
almost pure Ice Yellow (Photo 19)
Red (Photo 20)

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Photo 18 Photo 19 Photo 20
Part – 4 The Base
Reds

Layering is applying paint in a few layers on top of each other. Each next layer is brighter and smaller than the
previous one. Here is the sequence:

1. 30% black + 30% vmc Flat Red + 40% AK 2. 40% vmc Flat Red + 60% AK Magenta 3.Any very bright color (white, ice yellow,
Magenta (photo 21).
(photo 22).
ivory) (photo 23).

Photo 21 Photo 22 Photo 23

Note: You need to do this because any saturated colors layered over a dark color will never reach their full
13 saturation.

Part – 4 The Base

4.40% vmc Flat Red + 60% AK 5. Glaze transitions like we did 6. Sketch more light with 15% 7. Blend and fix mistakes with
Magenta (photo 24). on armor with different mixes vmc Flat Red + 25% AK different mixes of vmc Flat Red,
of Black, vmc Flat Red, AK Magenta + 60% ice yellow AK Magenta and vmc Ice Yellow
Magenta (photo 25).
(photo 26).
(photo 27).

Photo 24 Photo 25 Photo 26 Photo 27

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Part – 5 Bones and Metals

Bones

Stippling is roughly dabbing paint onto the miniature. Stipple (in the following sequence):

1. 20% black + 30% vmc emerald 2. ure vmc Ger. C. Beige WWII 3. 50% vmc Ger. C. Beige Optional - lightly glaze with
+ 50% vmc Ger. C. Beige WWII (70.821) (photo 29).
WWII (70.821) + 50% AK Pale vmc Ger. C. Beige WWII
(70.821) (photo 28).
Blue (photo 30).
(70.821) (photo 31)

Photo 28 Photo 29 Photo 30 Photo 31

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Part – 5 Bones and Metals

Metals
1. Wash all gold and steel with Citadel Agrax Earthshade, twice. (Photo 32).

2. Highlight gold with SC Necro Gold (photo 33).

3. Increase contrast with Vallejo Metal Color Gold (77.725) (photo 34).

4. Highlight steel with SC Heavy metal and Vallejo Mecha Color Dark Steel (69.065) (photo 35).

Optional – add blood with a mix of 90% Blood for the Blood God +10% Black (photo 36).


Photo 32

Photo 33 Photo 34 Photo 35 Photo 36

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Part – 6 La Finale
Now it is time to fix all our mistakes, add more
smoothness with blending if needed, and maybe
add more highlights. Polish it until you are happy
with the result. (Photo 37)

17
Photo 37