Rose Levy Beranbaum on Perfect Pear-ings!

Favorite Flavor
35 Years of The Cake Bible Combos with This Fall Fruit

jumbo
pumpkin-
pecan
sweet rolls,
page 60

Recipes + Ideas
with Autumn
Flavors

Cozy
Bakes:
Cakes, Cookies,
Cheesecake
+ More
Rustic Fruit
and Nut Breads

Apple, Pumpkin,
Pear + More

#thebakefeed
SEP/OCT 2024 VOLUME 10, ISSUE 5
$14.99US $17.99CAN

DISPLAY UNTIL NOV 4, 2024

 table of contents

15 Baker Spotlight: Cookies for a Cause

Jill Shuck shares how her cookie-baking
33 Bread Box: Harvest Delights
Enjoy the season’s flavors with chewy dried fruit and
business fundraises for baking skills courses in crunchy nuts baked in rustic, comforting loaves
Kenya

17 From the Test Kitchen: Weigh to Bake 37 Baking with Britney: Autumn Cakes
Britney Brown-Chamberlain shares her Apple
Learn more about why measuring ingredients Butter Swirl Pound Cake and Black Cocoa Swirled
by weight is best, plus features to look for in a Cheesecake, both perfect for fall
digital scale

21 Passed Down: Embracing New Traditions

Christine Gawron tells the story behind her
41 BAKING SCHOOL IN-DEPTH: CARAMEL CAKE
Master the art of this Southern staple. With its
family’s favorite special-occasion cookie luscious layers and rich coating of cooked frosting,
this cake embodies the flavors of fall.
23 From the Pantry: Brown Sugar
Discover the nuances between varieties of
brown sugar and their importance in baking 51 PUMPKIN PERFECTION
Revel in the versatility of fall’s favorite gourd with
27 Baker Profile: Baking by the Book
Baking book titan Rose Levy Beranbaum gives
Pumpkin Basque Cheesecake, Pumpkin Roulade,
Pumpkin Snickerdoodle Blondies, and more
us a glimpse into the 35th anniversary edition
of her cookbook The Cake Bible

3 bake from scratch

63 COOKIE CRAVINGS
Get a sneak peek of Great British Bake Off
95 SHORTCUT TO SCRATCH
Embrace seasonal baking with these desserts
winner Edd Kimber’s newest cookbook, Small featuring Bonne Maman®’s new ready-to-use pie
Batch Cookies, including a few of his creative fillings
recipes
103 Origin of a Classic: Aebleskiver

73 PEAR-ED TOGETHER
Heaping helpings of this favorite autumn fruit
Learn the history of these spherical Scandinavian
pancake balls
paired with complementary flavors in cake,
crostata, and bars 107 Gold Standard: Simply Sensational
The only pumpkin quick bread recipe you’ll ever
need
83 COZY FALL BAKES
Warm up your kitchen and your heart with
these fresh fall produce-filled recipes, including
109 Fast-Fix Baking: Quintessentially Québécois
Delight in the flavors of this Canadian maple syrup-
Apple Fritter Cake and Maple Cream-Filled infused stir-together cake
Crème Brûlée Buns
113 Bake It Like Brian: Petite Pear Pleasures
Brian combines his love of Chinese five-spice powder
and single servings in these elegant little cakes

september | october 2024 4

 ADVERTISING

MOCHA RICOTTA CAKE WITH MOCHA MASCARPONE FROSTING

Chocolate and coffee lovers, unite! This easy stir-together cake has a soft and delicate crumb that stays moist for days thanks to
BelGioioso® Ricotta con Latte® in the batter, and it only gets better when layering it with generous swaths of rich and creamy
whipped frosting accented with silky-smooth BelGioioso® Mascarpone Cheese.

Makes 1 (8-inch) cake 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted 1 to 2 teaspoons (1.5 to 3 grams) espresso
in center comes out with a few moist powder
1⅓ cups (167 grams) all-purpose flour crumbs, 27 to 30 minutes. Let cool in ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1⅓ cups (293 grams) firmly packed light pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, 1½ cups (360 grams) cold heavy
brown sugar and let cool completely on wire racks. whipping cream
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda 5. Place 1 cooled cake layer on a serving 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt plate. Spread half of Mocha Mascarpone
½ cup (43 grams) Dutch process cocoa Frosting onto cake layer. Top with 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
powder remaining cake layer and remaining the whisk attachment, beat mascarpone,
2½ teaspoons (4 grams) espresso powder frosting. Garnish with chocolate-covered confectioners’ sugar, cocoa, espresso
⅔ cup (160 grams) hot brewed coffee espresso beans, if desired. Refrigerate in powder, and salt at medium-low speed until
½ cup (112 grams) BelGioioso® an airtight container for up to 3 days. smooth and combined, stopping to scrape
Ricotta con Latte® Cheese, room bottom and sides of bowl. With mixer
temperature MOCHA MASCARPONE FROSTING on low speed, add cold cream in a slow,
⅓ cup (75 grams) vegetable oil Makes about 4 cups steady stream, beating until combined;
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract beat in vanilla. Thoroughly scrape bottom
1 large egg (50 grams), room 2 (8-ounce) containers BelGioioso® and sides of bowl and whisk. Gradually
temperature Mascarpone Cheese, softened increase mixer speed to medium-high,
Mocha Mascarpone Frosting (recipe 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar and beat until mixture is thick, light, and
follows) 3 tablespoons (15 grams) Dutch fluffy. Use immediately.
Garnish: chopped chocolate-covered process cocoa powder
espresso beans

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).

Spray 2 (8-inch) round cake pans with
baking spray with flour. Line bottom
of pans with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together
flour, brown sugar, baking soda,
and salt.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk
together cocoa and espresso
powder; whisk in hot coffee until
smooth and well combined.
Whisk in ricotta, oil, and vanilla
until combined. Whisk in egg.
Add cocoa mixture to flour
mixture, whisking just until
combined and no white
streaks remain. Divide
batter between
prepared pans
(about 460
grams each).
 cookbook corner

FROM SCRATCH
september | october 2024 Volume 10, Issue 5

EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nancy Meeks ADMINISTRATIVE SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Amber Wilson Tracy Wood-Franklin
ASSISTANT EDITOR Christina Fleisch SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Cailyn Haynes
SENIOR COPY EDITOR, FOOD Meg Lundberg ART DIRECTOR Liz Kight
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kile Pointer
Britney Brown-Chamberlain
SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
The German Baking Book: SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER
John O’Hagan
Maghan Armstrong, Courtni Bodiford,
ST YLISTS
Maggie Hill, Donna Nichols
Cakes, Tarts, Breads, and More PHOTOGRAPHERS

from the Black Forest and Beyond Jim Bathie, Kyle Carpenter, TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Laura Crandall
Stephanie Welbourne Steele FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
BY JÜRGEN KRAUSS Ola Agbodza, Aaron Conrad, Katie Moon Dickerson,
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Kathleen Kanen, Vanessa Rocchio, Amanda Stabile,
Jürgen Krauss, German native and 2021 Delisa McDaniel Izzie Turner
semifinalist of The Great British Bake Off, TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT/PREP COOK
Madison Harvel
brings us on a thoughtful journey with his
collection of authentic German baking that’s
crafted with care. Step into his world as he
D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
draws on memories, flavors, and techniques
ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER EVENT DIRECTOR Charlotte Gibens
from his childhood with recipes like Schoko- Morgan Barbay PRODUCTION/CIRCUL ATION MANAGER
Streuselkuchen mit Birne (Chocolate Pear SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay Samantha Sullivan
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert
Crumble Cake) and Zimtsterne (Cinnamon DIGITAL EDITOR Sarah Jarnagin
Stars). instagram.com/jurgenthebread
I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S

REGIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTORS MARKETING DIRECTOR Lindsay Jones Edmonds

Christy Chachere Lohmann [AL, AR, LA, MS, TX] EVENT MARKETING MANAGER Mandy Pettit
Mary-Evelyn Dalton [DC, KY, MD, NY, VA, WV] DIGITAL ADVERTISING COORDINATOR
Julie Goering [FL, GA, NC, SC, TN] Madison McCombs
Julie Riley [NY, West Coast] ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE
Kimberly Lewis
S A L E S D E V E LO PM E N T R E P R E S E N TAT I V E GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kile Pointer
Megan Lankford
For assistance with advertising, please call (205) 995-8860.

100 Afternoon Sweets: With FOUNDER Phyllis Hoffman DePiano

Snacking Cakes, Brownies, (1953–2023)

Blondies, and More PRESIDENT/CEO Eric W. Hoffman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hoffman

BY SARAH KIEFFER EVP/COO Greg Baugh VP/TECHNOLOGY Matthew Scott Holt

EVP/CCO Brooke Michael Bell VP/HUMAN RESOURCES AND ADMINISTRATION
From Sarah Kieffer, the baker behind the EVP/CMO Missy Polhemus Judy Brown Lazenby
EVP/CFO Laura Sappington VP/ADVERTISING Amy Robertson
Vanilla Bean Blog and author of four other VP/MARKETING Kristy Harrison
cookbooks, comes her latest 100-themed
baking book, which is dedicated to enjoying a
little treat late in the day. Filled with a range EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE SUBSCRIPTION CUSTOMER SERVICE
of recipes from simple one-bowl bakes such 2323 2nd Avenue North Bake from Scratch, PO Box 5002
Birmingham, AL 35203 Boone, IA 50950
as Banana Bread Bars to weekend baking Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]
Phone: (205) 995-8860 Phone: (888) 647-7304
projects like Chocolate Chip Buttermilk
Cake, Sarah’s newest cookbook will be Bake from Scratch ISSN 2472-0089 is published bimonthly by Hoffman Media, LLC, 2323 2nd Avenue North, Birmingham, AL 35203. The cover and contents of
Bake from Scratch are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries.
the next best addition to your library. Subscription Rates: For the United States, $39.95 per year, 6 issues, add $10 for postage in Canada, add $20 elsewhere. Single issue $14.99 available at newstands and bookstores.
Periodicals postage paid in Birmingham, Alabama, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Bake from Scratch, PO Box 5002, Boone, IA 50950.
thevanillabeanblog.com/cookbooks ©2024 Hoffman Media, LLC. Printed in the USA.
 HAPPENINGS
Stay connected with all the ways our baking world turns.

baking retreats
Announcing our first retreats for 2025!
Experience Scandinavian baking bliss in Stockholm, Sweden, March 2–9, 2025. Celebrate
Fettisdagen, Swedish Fat Tuesday, also known as Semla Day. Visit the city’s finest bakeries
followed by a kanelbulle (cinnamon bun) class at Voxholms Bed & Breakfast. We’ll also travel
to Skellfeå to bake under the expert guidance of Fanny Zanotti. Immerse yourself among
contemporary bakers and bakeries in Dublin, Ireland, March 11–20, 2025. Enjoy classes at
Howth Castle Cookery School, Bread 41, Firehouse Cookery School, and Ballymaloe
Cookery School, where you’ll bake Irish soda bread, scones, cakes, biscuits, and more. And
there are still Baking Retreats you can participate in this year. Join us October 4–7 in our
test kitchen in Birmingham, Alabama, for Fall Baking with pie queen Erin Jeanne McDowell,
or journey to Switzerland December 6–11 and December 12–17! Highlights include a chocolate
lesson at the Lindt Home of Chocolate; visits to Chur, the oldest town in Switzerzland, and the
snow-covered alpine village of Arosa; bread baking with Heddi Nieuwsma, and cookie making
with Andie Pilot. Register for current retreats, join the wait-list for sold-out retreats, and
sign up to be notified of future retreats at bakefromscratch.com/baking-retreats.

baking school video baking series

You don’t have to leave the Let’s Bake is here!
comfort of your home to become If you haven’t already
a better baker. Join Bake from checked out the relaunched
Scratch and Williams Sonoma live Bake from Scratch YouTube
on Monday nights for our online channel, you’re missing out! with
Baking School classes. Each class We recently debuted the
is devoted to one or two recipes new series Fast-Fix Baking,
so you can see the entire process which features recipes that
from start to finish while being can all be baked in around
able to chat virtually with Brian two hours or less. Plus, you’ll
Hart Hoffman, guest instructors, get great ideas and tips on
and other attendees. You can also how to level up your baking
join our private Facebook group to skills.
share your bakes with other baking Subscribe to the channel
enthusiasts. so you never miss a delicious
Purchase tickets at moment. youtube.com/ SUBSCRIBE
williams-sonoma.squadup.com. bakefromscratch

Do you get our newsletter, PreHeat?

These weekly emails are the best way to stay current with all things Bake from Scratch.
Subscribe now at bakefromscratch.com/newsletter-signup.

Follow us on social media for daily baking inspiration.

thebakefeed bakefromscratch bakefromscratchmagazine bakefromscratch

9 bake from scratch

 from the editor

Amazing Autumn
Baking is Here!
Welcome to the most abrupt shift in baking seasons—albeit
glorious, yet rapid in its transformation. Gone are the berries
and stone fruits of the bright summer season, making way for
the warmth and comfort that come into our kitchens with a
cool autumn breeze. If I had to select one pantry ingredient
that embodies this season, I would absolutely choose brown
sugar! The molasses that accompanies the sugar makes this
ingredient perfect to pair with warm spices, and you can read
all about this pantry staple on page 23 as you begin your
journey through this issue.

Autumn also brings a craving for pie! On page 95, we bring

you a baker’s solution to busy days courtesy of new pie fillings
from Bonne Maman®—so no need to miss the blueberries and
cherries of summer with these in your kitchen. I’m partial to
cherry pie, something my Grandad Norton and I loved, so I will
make one on September 10 to honor his birthday. I wish we
could share one more slice of pie together, with a blissful
garnish of crème anglaise (recipe on page 101).

It was a table full of pies that led to my friendship with baking My First Cake Collaboration
legend Rose Levy Beranbaum. Several years ago, we were both Y’all know I love hummingbird cake in any and all forms, which
invited to judge the annual pie baking competition at Gramercy is why I’m so excited to announce that I’ve partnered with
Caroline’s Cakes of Spartanburg, South Carolina, to create
Tavern, where team members of the famed New York City
a nut-free Four-Layer Hummingbird Cake, based on my
restaurant set aside their daily roles. For that one day, everyone favorite version of hummingbird cake, that’s available very
was a pastry chef vying for their creation to be added to the soon for nationwide shipping! Caroline’s is a longtime friend
restaurant’s dessert menu. While the entire experience was an of Bake from Scratch, and I had a blast working with them.
absolute blast, I couldn’t help but notice the attention to detail Visit carolinescakes.com to order.
and nuance that Rose brought to the task of assessing each
slice… and not just each slice, but each element of the slice.
That meticulousness is just one of the many reasons why Rose is
revered in the culinary world and known for recipes that never go new cookbook Small Batch Cookies and baking in Kenya with Jill
out of style! Thirty-five years ago, she published The Cake Bible, Shuck. What a delicious world to be in! I hope you love every
and the accolades have never stopped pouring in for this book single page.
that is now in its 60th printing. That is the definition of LEGEND
status. This fall, she brings us a fully revised and updated tome of Preheat your oven, it’s time to bake!
the same name for her final cookbook. (Rose, we need a memoir!
Hint, hint!) Why revise every single recipe you may ask? Find out
on page 27 and get your copy on the way!

This issue is jam-packed with many amazing recipes and stories Brian Hart Hoffman
about more of my baking friends. We celebrate Edd Kimber’s Editor-in-Chief

september | october 2024 10

 and
present the

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& WIN PRIZE PACK
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September 4 – October 4, 2024

Searching for the mixer of your dreams? The Ankarsrum Assistant Original’s performance, design, and
versatility are unbeatable. It is a baker’s dream and the ultimate powerhouse to whip up dough, cakes, cookies,
and pastries with incredible ease. For added sweetness, Bake from Scratch is including a copy of Brian Hart
Hoffman’s new book, It’s Time to Bake Pastries and a fabulous statement tote bag. Take a break from the
kitchen and enter for your chance to win a grand prize that will elevate your kitchen experience!

Enter to win and see how we bake with Ankarsrum at

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 recipe index

BARS AND COOKIES Mocha Ricotta Cake with Mocha

Double Chocolate Ginger Viennese Mascarpone Frosting 5
Fingers 68 Pear Fritter Mini Cakes 113 Jumbo Pumpkin-Pecan
Frosted London Fog Cookies 72 Pear-Ginger Cake 82 Sweet Rolls
Gooey Butter Pecan Cake 92 Pouding Chômeur 110 page 60
Peanut Butter-Marshmallow Skillet Pumpkin Basque Cheesecake 62 PHOTOGRAPHY BY
KYLE CARPENTER
Cookie 87 Pumpkin Roulade 56 RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
Pistachio Egg Yolk Shortbread with Berry Whipped Cream Cake 32 AMANDA STABILE
Glaze 68 FOOD STYLING BY
KATIE MOON DICKERSON
Pretzel Caramel Thumbprints 69 FILLINGS, FROSTINGS, AND STYLING BY
Pumpkin Snickerdoodle Bars 62 GLAZES MAGGIE HILL
Roasted Pear Cheesecake Bars 81 Brown Sugar Glaze 94 COVER DESIGN BY

Sour Cream Rolls 22 Cooked Caramel Icing 43 LIZ KIGHT

Cream Cheese Filling 56

BREADS Crème Brûlée Glaze 88
Browned Butter Sweet Potato Biscuits 86 Maple Cream Filling 88 Fried Apple Hand Pies 97
Cranberry-Walnut Bread 36 Marshmallow Crème 87 Pear-Walnut Crostata 78
Date-Pecan Bread 36 Mocha Mascarpone Frosting 5
Glazed Pumpkin Spice Scones 55 SAUCES, SPREADS, AND TOPPINGS
Jumbo Pumpkin-Pecan Sweet Rolls 60 MISCELLANEOUS Butter Pecan Sauce 92
Pumpkin Soda Bread Rolls 56 All-Butter Piecrust 97 Crème Anglaise 101
Spiced Apple Aebleskiver 105 Candied Pear Slices 81 Salted Caramel Sauce 97
Spiced Pumpkin Bread 108 Smoky Mascarpone Spread 56
PASTRIES Whipped Crème Fraîche 110
CAKES Maple Cream-Filled Crème Brûlée Buns 87
Apple Butter Swirl Pound Cake 39
Apple Fritter Cake 91 PIES AND TARTS
Black Cocoa Swirled Cheesecake 39 Blueberry-Almond Streusel Pie 101
Browned Butter Bundt Cake 94 Double-Crust Cherry Pie with Crème
Caramel Layer Cake 43 Anglaise 101

credits
Page 15—Photos courtesy of Jill Shuck. Page 31—Photo courtesy of the author.
Page 30—Rose Levy Beranbaum photo courtesy of Page 65—Edd Kimber photo by Simon Kimber.
Woody Wolston.

13 bake from scratch

 EXPERTLY TESTED RECIPES
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We pride ourselves on the finest recipes, and

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The recipes in each issue pass through There’s something about a homemade treat that
puts a smile on our faces, and that’s exactly why
the Bake from Scratch test kitchen. Bonne Maman is our go-to for preserves and fruit
Each is flavorful and distinctive spreads. Made with simple and natural ingredients
and developed with your of the finest quality, Bonne Maman’s wide variety
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These products are partners of

Bake from Scratch magazine and
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Whether we’re creating a simple cookie or laminated

pastry, C&H® Sugar is a staple in our test kitchen.
Their granulated, brown sugar, and powdered sugar
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 baker spotlight

COOKIES
FOR A
CAUSE
From selling cookies at a
farmers’ market to teaching
life skills classes in Kenya,
Jill Shuck spreads her love
for baking wherever she goes the proceeds from The Country Cookie
to the program’s ongoing growth. There
are now four baking programs at skills
What sparked your passion for baking? parties, birthdays, any celebration. I centers throughout Kenya, and I travel
Jill Shuck: I grew up in Amish country love adding a homemade touch to these there two to three times a year to spend
in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, memorable moments. time with the instructors and students.
surrounded by good cooks and bakers I share recipes with them, worship with
who valued homemade goodness, using What inspires your cookie recipes? them, and do my best to encourage
simple and fresh ingredients, and sharing JS: I love to browse through cookbooks, students to dream big. I am blessed to
their creations with others. search online, and especially listen to have the support of those who enjoy my
what my customers say they would cookies while knowing that each cookie
How did you decide to start your cookie enjoy trying. Here in Maryland, Old Bay has a purpose—making a lasting impact
baking business? Seasoning is very popular, and I had a through the transformation that comes
JS: In 2016, while working part-time customer ask if I could create a cookie from learning the skill of baking.
at my church, one of my goals was to with it. After some experimenting, I
figure out how to bake from home and landed on a chocolate chip cookie with You’re known among the folks in the
sell my products somewhere. I wanted to crushed Old Bay potato chips stirred Baking School Facebook group to share
focus on one type of product. Cookies in, and it’s a big hit! And I love adding photos of your Kenya travels and the
are the perfect treat! They come in chopped candy bars to cookie dough. cookies you bake with the students. Tell
countless varieties, are handheld, freeze us a little more about that.
well, and are enjoyed by folks of all ages. Not only do you bake for yourself and your JS: It’s so much fun sharing my cookies
Having a business combines so many customers but you also help teach others with the group and sharing Bake from
of my passions—baking, organizing to bake. Tell us about that experience. Scratch recipes with my friends in Kenya.
and planning, serving others, building JS: During a 2019 mission trip I Earlier this year we baked Aunt Cheryl's
relationships, traveling, and my faith. I took to Kenya, I began working with Home Ec Muffins from the July/August
named my company The Country Cookie a group called Missions of Hope 2023 issue, as well as chocolate cake
to reflect the welcoming, simple, at-home International (MOHI), which is a faith- and banana muffins. This September, I'm
experience I strive to create. I’m now in based organization that provides skills teaching Lemon-Poppy Seed Streusel
my eighth season of selling cookies at development and business training Bread from March/April 2024. It’s great
the Havre de Grace Farmers Market in programs and microloans to empower and to connect with others who love to bake
Maryland, and I bake about 500 cookies help local community members. MOHI and to help inspire that love in others.
for each Saturday I’m there. I also do wanted to add baking skills classes to
custom orders for weddings, graduation their program, and I decided to donate Learn more at thecountrycookie.com.

15 bake from scratch

Get every 2023 magazine
recipe in our latest book
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FOR THE HOME BAKER
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Gorgeous photography
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Cakes, breads, pies &
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from the test kitchen

WEIGH
TO BAKE
Embrace your kitchen scale
for consistency when baking—
it’s the secret to precise, reliable,
and downright delicious results

BY AMBER WILSON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER
STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL AND MAGGIE HILL
Have you ever whipped up a batch of crumbly cookies, a dozen dry muࡺns,
or a cake that just won’t hold its shape, leaving you feeling like a baking disaster?
The culprit is often inaccurate ࡽour measurements—either too little or too much.

If you were to place a 1-cup measuring cup an avalanche of flour somehow finds its way
and a bag of flour in front of five people, ask into the cup, along with a cloud of flour on
them to measure out 1 cup, and then weigh every surface of their kitchen. This is why
each person’s measurement, you’d end up with a scale carries its weight in gold. When you
different results every time. Why? Because we measure 125 grams of flour (1 cup) using a
all have various methods of measuring flour. scale, it will always be 125 grams. No. Matter.
Some swear by fluffing the flour beforehand. What. Lean into it and allow your scale to
Others dive deep and swoop up, leveling the give you comfort in the kitchen by ensuring
top of the cup slowly with the back of a butter every ingredient is measured precisely as the
knife. Some tip the bag with abandon until recipe intended.

september | october 2024 18

 Eliminate Guesswork
Whether doubling (or tripling) a recipe
for a crowd or scaling down a recipe for a
Meet the Bake from Scratch test kitchen’s favorite
cozy small-batch bake, the scale is your
best friend through it all! It lets you adjust kitchen scale: the Zwilling Enࡼnigy Scale.
ingredient weights seamlessly without
the hassle of converting volumetric It’s streamlined and stylish enough to leave on your
measurements. There’s no more guesswork countertop. Its 22-pound weight capacity surpasses other
involved in how firmly you’re packing similar scales, and its accuracy to 1 gram ensures precise
brown sugar into a cup, estimating measurements. Its built-in battery is fully rechargeable with
irregularly shaped ingredients like berries, included USB cable, and the fully sealed glass surface is a
nuts, and chocolate chips, or painstakingly breeze to wipe clean. Plus, the display seamlessly blends into
scraping every last bit of honey or corn the weighing platform, giving plenty of room for your bowl.
syrup from a measuring cup.

And that’s not all—your trusty scale comes

in handy for evenly dividing batter between
cake pans or solving the mystery of how
many cookies you’ll get from a batch if you
decide to change their size. Just weigh the
whole batch of dough and then a single
portion of cookie dough. Divide the total
weight of the dough by the weight per
cookie. Voilà! You’ve got the new yield
figured out just like that!

Simplify Your (Baking) Life

Cleanup after baking can feel daunting,
but the scale swoops in as a true hero once
more. By using a scale, you save precious
time during baking but also minimize
cleanup afterward. Instead of wading
through a mountain of measuring cups and
spoons, you’re left with just a few tools to
clean. Plus, using a scale is easier.

Simply turn on your scale, place your

bowl on it, and press the “tare” button;
the screen should then have a “0” on it.
(The word “tare” originates from Middle
English and referred to a deduction or
allowance for the weight of a container.)
This process subtracts the container’s
weight and resets the scale to zero, which
lets you accurately measure the weight
of the contents you add to the container
without the container’s weight affecting
the measurement. Once you add an
ingredient to the bowl, reset it to zero and
keep adding ingredients. Measure, reset to
Get our favorite scale at bakefromscratch.com/shop.
zero, repeat. And rest assured that you’re
on the path to baking success.

19 bake from scratch

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passed down

BY CHRISTINA FLEISCH
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
KYLE CARPENTER
FOOD STYLING BY
KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY
COURTNI BODIFORD
 Reader Christine Gawron shares her husband’s family’s beloved rolled cookie

C
SOUR CREAM ROLLS hristine Gawron has always cherished traditions.
Makes about 24 pieces Growing up in a Polish and Ukrainian household, she
eagerly embraced the rich culinary customs attached to
Recipe adapted from Christine Gawron
special occasions. Cooking and baking became a passion for her,
These rolled cookies are ideal for preparing ahead of time. especially when she married her husband, Dennis. Their marriage
You can freeze the dough for up to a month and then not only combined households but also merged treasured family
thaw it in the refrigerator before rolling it out and baking. traditions. One such tradition is this recipe that was passed down
Keeping the dough cold is crucial due to its higher fat from Dennis’s grandmother Agnes Plochocki. Although Agnes
content. This ensures the rolls turn out light and flaky. had passed away before the couple met, Dennis would often tell
Christine stories of her.
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup (120 grams) sour cream, room temperature
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for Agnes was an avid baker and started the tradition of making
dusting sour cream rolls during the holidays. Christine’s mother-in-
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt law, Frances, faithfully continued the tradition and eventually
½ cup (160 grams) apricot preserves*, divided entrusted Christine with the recipe. Over time, Christine
6 tablespoons (42 grams) finely chopped pecans, developed her own approach, using a food processor to blend
divided
6 tablespoons (34 grams) sweetened flaked coconut, ingredients and ensuring the butter and sour cream reach room
divided temperature so they combine smoothly.
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Today, these rolls have become a cornerstone of their holiday
1. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse butter and celebrations, although they’re delicious no matter the
sour cream until smooth. Add flour and salt; pulse just time of year. The aroma wafting through the
until a dough forms. (Dough will be very sticky).
kitchen as the rolls bake evokes a sense of joy
2. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape
into a ball. (Do not work dough too much or add too and anticipation shared by the Gawrons
much flour.) Divide dough in half, and shape each portion and all who gather to enjoy them.
into a rectangle. Wrap each portion separately in plastic
wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight. Have an heirloom family recipe
3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a large baking you’d like to share? Send us details at
sheet with parchment paper. [email protected].
4. On a heavily floured surface, roll one portion of
dough into a 12x10-inch rectangle (about ⅛ inch thick),
with one short side facing you. Spread half of preserves
on dough, leaving a ¼-inch border on all sides. Sprinkle
half of pecans and half of coconut onto preserves.
Starting with one short side, roll up dough into a
tight log. Pinch ends to seal; carefully transfer log,
seam side down, to one side of prepared pan.
Repeat with remaining dough, remaining
preserves, remaining pecans, and remaining
coconut.
5. Bake until rolls are golden brown, about 1 hour.
Let cool on pan for 10 minutes. Remove from
pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.
6. Using a serrated knife, cut each log diagonally
into 1-inch-thick slices. Dust with confectioners’
sugar. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

*We used Bonne Manan® Apricot Preserves.

september | october 2024 22

from the pantry

A G IE L
BY S ID N E Y B R
R / ST YLING
Y BY KYLE CARPENTE
OTO G RA PH
E IS C H / PH
BY CH R IS T IN A F L

erhouse
o b u s t c u l inary pow
The mu ltifaceted,r
M
y love for brown sugar began when I was barely tall enough to
see over the kitchen counter, no more than 7 years old. I would
help my mom stir pecan pie filling while sneaking a finger in
to taste the rich sugars. As a child growing up in Costa Rica, I enjoyed
many advantages, one of which was living close enough to witness the
enchantment of sugarcane being processed at a nearby plant.

O fateful field trip sealed my love for all things sugar for the rest of my
One
lif The air was thick with the heat from the fires burning underneath
life. muscovado
m
massive basins filled with boiling cane juice. The entire plant smelled of
m
molasses, that rich caramel scent that left you with the strongest desire
to get your hands on some sugar. This plant was producing panela,
al known as tapa de dulce in Costa Rica. Watching the workers wield
also
m
massive poles with buckets attached at the ends as they transferred the demerara
thh syrups into molds filled my classmates and me with awe. I’ll never
thick
f
fo
forget the joy of being handed a small block of tapa de dulce at the end
o the field trip. That joy continues to this day as I bake cookies and
of
c
ca
cakes filled with sugars rich in molasses.

B
Brown sugar is a crucial ingredient in baking, not only for its
d
delightful flavor but also for its significant role in enhancing your
b
baked goods. All sugar comes from either sugarcane or sugar beet
p
plants. The top nations that produce sugarcane are Brazil, China,
light
Inn
India, Thailand, and the United States, though sugarcane can be brown
g
grown in most tropical regions, including parts of Africa, Central
an South America, and Australia. Sugar beets are hardier and
and
ca withstand frost; their most common growing regions are
can
Canada, Europe, and Russia. Bake from Scratch Official Test
Kitchen Partner C&H® Sugar sources its sugarcane from
Hawaii, Australia, and parts of South America. These plants
undergo many processes before they become the sugars we
know and purchase at the store. After raw sugar has been
removed of impurities and crystallized, it’s then passed through
a centrifuge to remove excess liquid; the byproduct of this
process is molasses. This is the turning point in the sugar-
refining process where we get all the different forms of sugar,
from white granulated to dark brown sugar and turbinado,
and many other varieties. The main difference between
these sugars is the amount of molasses in them.

Light and dark brown sugars are the most well-known

versions of brown sugar and the easiest to find in stores. turbinado
These brown sugars are made by reintroducing molasses
to granulated sugar. The difference between them is
simply the amount of molasses that is mixed in. Light
brown sugar, as the name implies, contains less molasses
(about 3% to 4%) and is used more often in baking
than its richer counterpart. When a recipe calls for
“brown sugar” without specifying which kind, it’s safe
to assume light brown is the version it’s referring to. dark
brown
Even More Sugar Bake with
Jaggery and panela are two less Brown Sugar
common versions of brown sugar. In this issue, don’t miss:
They are a concentrated version of
Caramel Layer Cake,
sugarcane juice that has been boiled page 43
into a syrup or paste and then poured
into molds and cooled until solid. While Pumpkin Snickerdoodle Bars,
the process to make these sugars is page 62
the same, jaggery hails from South Apple Fritter Cake,
Asia, while panela comes from Latin page 91
America and goes by many different
Gooey Butter Pecan Cake,
names, depending on the region.
page 92
Jaggery and panela are available in
blocks and cones, cubes, and even Brown Butter Bundt Cake,
powdered. Shave, grate, or chop the page 94
solid pieces to use them. Spiced Pumpkin Bread,
page 108

the
CRUMB A VERY SWEET HOLIDAY EPISODE
In December 2023, Bake from Scratch editor-in-chief and
The Crumb podcast host Brian Hart Hoಀman welcomed
Eleonora Lahud, research chef for C&H® Sugar, to chat about
all things sugar, prepping for holiday baking, and more.
You can listen to all our current and past episodes at
bakefromscratch.com/crumb.
Dark brown sugar contains approximately 6% to 10% molasses, Sugar Shopping
giving it a richer and stronger caramel flavor. Dark brown sugar Light brown, dark brown, and turbinado are the most
is most often used in making gingerbread and other recipes common varieties of brown sugar in the US; they all can
that have a longer baking or cooking time, given its increased be found in large grocery stores throughout the country.
moisture. Using these two sugars in your baking adds moisture Additionally, our Official Test Kitchen Partner C&H®
to your baked goods because of the molasses content. Light Sugar, and its sister brand, Domino® Sugar, both have
and dark brown sugars can be used interchangeably, but keep in product locator features on their website (chsugar.com and
mind that you’ll have slight variations in the final color, moisture dominosugar.com), and you can order online directly from
content, and flavor of your recipe. them. Muscovado and demerara sugars are widely available
throughout Europe, and although they can be found in the
Muscovado sugar, also known as Barbados sugar, is similar to light US, you’ll most likely find them at specialty food stores
and dark brown sugars due to its higher molasses content and rather than large grocery store chains. Jaggery and panela
moist texture. However, this sugar does not have molasses added can be found at Latin American and Asian specialty food
back in after it’s refined. Muscovado’s production journey ends stores and occasionally at health food stores.
at the crystallization step, when the sugarcane juices have fully
evaporated and all that remains are molasses-covered granules.
Muscovado sugar has a distinctly strong molasses flavor and a very
moist, sandy texture. The granules tend to be stickier than those granulated sugar into superfine sugar before the molasses is
of light and dark brown sugars. It’s often used to make caramel fully incorporated.) If you don’t have molasses, other substitutes
confections and sauces as well as marinades. include pure maple syrup, agave syrup, or dark honey, but these
other syrups will not have the same depth of flavor as molasses
Turbinado and demerara sugars share many similarities and are and can affect the outcome of your recipe.
occasionally mistaken for each other. These two sugars have
large, coarse granules that do not dissolve easily when baking. Brown sugar in a recipe can play an important part in how
They’re often used for a dramatic, sparkling finish to your baked it bakes. Chocolate chip cookies, for example, contain both
goods or when you want a lasting sweet crunch. They’re typically granulated and brown sugars. The density and moisture of the
referred to or labeled as “raw sugar” because they’re less refined brown sugar helps prevent air pockets inside the batter and
than granulated sugar and retain some molasses. The main allows the dough to rise more rather than spread. It also gives
difference between demerara and turbinado lies in the molasses the cookies, and other bakes, a softer texture. The robust flavors
content, as with all brown sugars. Demerara contains more, of the molasses will often sing in the background of your bakes,
giving it a darker look, while turbinado is a light, sandy color. harmonizing with vanilla, spices, and other ingredients.

Brown sugar tends to harden into an impenetrable block the Before measuring baking ingredients by weight with a scale
longer it stays in your pantry, which is usually a sign that the became a common practice, “firmly packed” was the rule for
moisture inside the sugar has evaporated. To prevent this, store brown sugar. But how firm is firm? It’s confusing. The soft,
it in an airtight container or resealable plastic bag. To regain the moist texture of the granules in brown sugar, unlike regular
soft, moist texture of your sugar, add a slice or two of bread, one granulated, allows air pockets to form as it’s scooped into a
or two marshmallows, or a damp (not dripping) paper towel to measuring cup. If you don’t pack it into the cup, you could have
your container. The hardened sugar will take in the moisture from a discrepancy between the weighed measurement and the cup
these items and soften up. Remove after a few days and use a fork (volume) measurement. Additionally, if you have air pockets and
to break up any clumps. an incorrect measurement of sugar, it will affect the results of
your baking in different ways. Your final product could be less
If you’ve run out of brown sugar and need a substitute, you can sweet than originally intended or not bake properly because of
make your own with granulated sugar and molasses. For light the missing moisture from the sugar. (If you’re still a holdout
brown sugar, add 1 tablespoon (21 grams) molasses to 1 cup and measuring by volume, turn to page 17.)
(200 grams) granulated sugar. For dark brown sugar, increase
to 2 tablespoons (42 grams) molasses. You can either whisk by As we enter fall and start the busiest baking season of the year,
hand until uniform in color and completely combined or use a it’s helpful to consider the various types of brown sugar and how
stand mixer. (Do not use a food processor; it will grind your they can enrich your baking endeavors.
september | october 2024 26
 baker profile

The doyenne of baking, Rose Levy Beranbaum,

shares a glimpse into the 35th anniversary edition
of her ever-inࢆuential cookbook The Cake Bible

BY AMBER WILSON / PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW SEPTIMUS

27 bake from scratch

 BAKING BY
THE BOOK
W
hile I was growing up, there was a small box my mother always packed to be stowed
away in a safe space whenever we moved. It was her kitchen box—it held cherished
items like a ceramic corn-on-the-cob cookie jar that belonged to my great-
grandmother and a collection of affectionately used cookbooks. Among them were treasures like
Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen; Who’s Your Mama, Are You Catholic, and Can You Make a
Roux?; Pirate’s Pantry; and The Cake Bible.

From a young age, Rose Levy Beranbaum’s recipes provided me with a sense of comfort and
familiarity. I remember slowly flipping through The Cake Bible, captivated by its glossy photographs
nestled in the book’s center, and daydreaming of the day I could bake those intricate cakes myself.
Little did I know then that I was immersing myself in the meticulous work of one of the most
influential figures in baking—and that I would be chatting with her one day.

september | october 2024 28

 The phone rings, and Rose’s warm voice greets me on the other
side. There is an immediate connection, “kindred spirits,” as
Rose calls it. We quickly delve into Rose’s relationship with
cakes at a young age.

Growing up in a household where sweets were a rarity because

her mother was a dentist, Rose didn’t have much exposure to
homemade cakes. In fact, as a child, she never tasted a cake
that she enjoyed. “And then, when I went to college at the
University of Vermont, I tasted my first baked-from-scratch
cake, which had the most wonderful flavor. But it didn’t have the
texture of a box cake I remembered, which is softer.”

This newfound love for baking sparked Rose’s curiosity, which

is her most valuable asset. “I started off wanting to understand
how things work because I’d never grown up baking, and I had a
few failures, and I just wanted to understand. I realized that the
ingredients make all the difference,” Rose explains. She became
determined to replicate the soft texture of boxed cakes while
capturing the homemade buttery flavor she loved. This quest led
her to the “reverse creaming method,” a technique where dry
ingredients are mixed first, followed by the addition of butter,
part of the liquid, and then the rest of the liquid and eggs. The
results produced plush, velvety cakes that were simpler and
quicker than the traditional method.

In 1988, Rose published The Cake Bible, a seminal work that

redefined how to approach cake baking. It emphasized the So, why undertake the task of revising such a culinary
importance of precise ingredients, comprehensive techniques, masterpiece? “It was such an opportunity because I never wanted
and Rose’s meticulous instructions punctuated by her infectious to do this revision, and I’ll tell you why. Because it was a classic.
enthusiasm. The result? Cakes that have the power to make People have been growing up with this book—grandchildren,
anyone weak in the knees. even now,” Rose says. “But thanks to my husband Woody (I
never would have done this without him), I realized there was
Beyond her innovative recipes, Rose was also the first in the an opportunity here to update. He kept saying, ‘Well, so much
US to include metric and avoirdupois (gram and ounce) weight has changed. The size of the pans. They’re not 11⁄2 inches high
meaurements in addition to volumes for all ingredients—a anymore. They’re 2 inches. And now, there’s something called
practice now widely adopted. Her forward-thinking book editor, unbleached cake flour, which isn’t cake flour really at all, and you
Maria Guarnaschelli, understood that readers will succeed when have to explain all this new stuff.’”
you give details like Rose was giving. “I’m precise by nature,”
Rose says. “I realized how important it was to understand what The conversation quickly shifts to flour—with Woody in the
the ingredients are made up of and also to be precise about the background, interjecting about the subject as well. “This is big,”
weight.” She even designed a mercury thermometer that was the Rose begins. I feel myself sit up a little straighter, listening
only one accurate to a fraction of a degree. closely. “The difference between bleached and unbleached flour
is so significant, and I still see, to this day, people saying all-
For more than 35 years, Rose has meticulously guided home purpose flour, not specifying which they mean.” She explains, “If
bakers, sharing her expertise with clarity and patience. Her you’re making bread and use bleached flour, it won’t be strong
commitment to detail has inspired decades of devotees who trust enough. If you’re using unbleached flour for cake, it will be
her recipes to deliver exceptional results time and time again. chewy, and it won’t give you the same consistency.”

29 bake from scratch

Rose Levy Beranbaum is the award-winning author of 14 cookbooks,
including The Bread Bible, Rose’s Baking Basics, The Baking Bible, and
The Cake Bible.

Find Rose on Instagram at @realbakingwithrose and on her website,

realbakingwithrose.com. Rose’s 35th anniversary edition of The Cake Bible is
available October 22.

Another revelation Rose unveils is the shrinking of egg yolks, The result of their efforts is a refreshed edition of The Cake
which she discovered while baking a génoise for a wedding years Bible—a book that is not just updated but enhanced. “We
ago. “We discovered that génoise is one of the cakes where eliminated ounces, which are confusing because they refer
you don’t separate the eggs, so it ends up getting less egg yolk to both liquid and weight, are less precise than grams, and to
in proportion to the white. So, we started adding the correct streamline and provide more comprehensive information,” Rose
amount. And that’s why we separate and weigh the yolks and the explained. “We added 30 percent more pages, incorporated new
whites and then put them back together again. People may think recipes and variations, and expanded the chapter on flourless
it is nuts, but it makes a world of difference in how it comes out.” cakes, buttercreams, and ganache.” She praises Woody for his
design contributions. “Woody worked very hard on revising
Reflecting on the revision process, Rose acknowledges its some of the things at the end because whenever a recipe has
challenges. “Well, let me tell you, revising something isn’t two pages, he wanted it to be side by side rather than flipping
entirely a joy. When I studied fashion design at the Fashion a page, which I think was brilliant. The production team worked
Institute of Technology before going to New York University to with us and appreciated his changes.”
study food science and culinary arts, I quickly discovered that
redoing something is a lot harder than starting from scratch,” “Everyone involved poured their hearts into this project,” Rose
she confesses. “I think it was about 10 years ago when we first reflects. “It’s beautiful. I’m glad that we went through it.” She
started talking to my amazing editor, Cassie Jones, about the pauses and starts laughing. “I think it aged me in the end, but it’s
project. I decided, ‘No, it’s too much work.’ And I had no idea worth it!”
how much work. It was mind-boggling. But with her full support
it became possible!” Baking from this book and fully appreciating it requires me to
relinquish control. So, I took a deep breath and began flipping

september | october 2024 30

 In summer and fall 2023, Rose Levy Beranbaum,
Woody Wolston, and their talented team
embarked on a baking marathon in Kansas
City, Missouri, hosted by fellow baker and food
stylist Erin Jean McDowell and her husband,
Derrick. Erin opened her home and styling
studio for this creative journey. Over eight days,
they meticulously crafted 68 stunning cakes—
each uniquely adorned and faithfully re-created
to look like original photos—destined for the
book’s vibrant new cover and 80-page color
photo insert.

Top row, from left: Derek Laughren, Erin Jeanne McDowell,

Matthew Septimus
Middle row: Rose and her husband Woody
Bottom row, from left: Katlin Wayne, pooch Brimley,
Evan Coben

eggs seemed tedious at first. But Rose explained

the importance, so I immediately changed my
perspective.

Once I whipped the batter into a voluminous cloud

that defied gravity and baked it, the result was the
lightest, most perfect cake I have ever made. Rose
taught me that the smallest decisions in baking can
profoundly affect the outcome. Baking involves
intuition and technique but also a touch of alchemy.

While cleaning dishes, I stared blankly out the kitchen

window, reflecting on how Rose’s late husband, Elliott
Beranbaum, once called her an alchemist, not a
through the pages. Three cakes immediately caught my eye: scientist. “ ‘Scientists come up with theories that are eventually
Triple Lemon Velvet Bundt Cake, Chocolate Domingo Chocolate proven wrong,’ ” Rose recalls him saying. “ ‘But alchemists like you
Cake, and Whipped Cream Cake, which uses whipped heavy test and refine until they can prove they’re correct.’ ”
cream instead of butter in the batter. Rose says that these are her
and Woody’s top favorites as well! Lost in thought, I finished the dishes and whipped up Rose’s
Perfect Whipped Cream to crown the cake—it only seemed
I chose the Whipped Cream Cake and began reading the fitting. As Mae West said, “Too much of a good thing can be
headnote, in which she credits its origins. “I always love giving wonderful!”
credit,” Rose says. “When people don’t give credit for people’s
innovations, we lose the history of where things started and why While the cake cooled, I delved into the Understand section after
they are the way they are.” the recipe. Rose explained the cake’s nuances: It has an extra egg
balanced by less baking powder, and a lower amount of vanilla is
When it came to following the instructions, I learned to ignore needed because of the heavy cream’s floral notes. These details—
the oven’s premature preheating beep and allowed the oven to along with Pointers for Success and precise charts—elevate Rose’s
preheat for at least 20 minutes. I began meticulously weighing book to its self-described status: a culinary cake bible. And how
my ingredients. Admittedly, separating and weighing the was the cake, you may wonder? Absolutely heavenly.

31 bake from scratch

WHIPPED CREAM CAKE
Makes 1 Bundt cake / Serves 8 to 10

This recipe was sent to me by Chef Anthony Stella, with a

request to improve its texture. Although there is no butter, the
amount of butterfat contained in the cream is considerably
higher than the amount of butter in my basic butter cake.
Reformulating the recipe to work in a Bundt pan did wonders for
improving the texture. It is now one of my top favorite cakes.

Special Equipment: One 10-cup fluted tube pan, coated

with baking spray with flour

2¼ cups (225 grams) bleached cake flour, sifted into the

cup and leveled off
2 teaspoons (9 grams) baking powder
¾ teaspoon (4.5 grams) fine sea salt
¼ cup (60 grams/59 ml) egg yolks, from 3 (to 4) large 6. Remove the bowl from the stand. Add half the flour
eggs, room temperature mixture to the cream mixture and with a flat wire whisk, or
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 grams/89 ml) egg whites, the whisk from the stand mixer, stir and fold it in until most
from 3 large eggs, room temperature of the flour disappears. Add the rest of the flour mixture
1 teaspoon (5 grams/5 ml) pure vanilla extract and continue folding and mixing until all traces of flour have
1½ cups (348 grams/355 ml) heavy cream, cold disappeared. Finish with a silicone spatula, reaching to the
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) sugar, preferably bottom of the bowl.
superfine 7. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Run a metal
spatula or dull knife blade through the batter to prevent large
1. Twenty minutes or longer before baking, set an oven rack in air bubbles, avoiding the bottom of the pan, and smooth the
the lower third of the oven. Set the oven at 375°F/190°C. surface with a small spatula. The pan will be half full.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking 8. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, or until a wooden toothpick
powder, and salt, then sift the mixture onto a piece of inserted between the center tube and sides of the pan
parchment to make it easier to incorporate. comes out completely clean and the cake springs back when
3. In a 1-cup (237 ml) glass measure with a spout, lightly pressed lightly in the center. The cake should start to shrink
whisk the measured egg yolks and egg whites. Add the from the sides of the pan only after removal from the oven.
vanilla and whisk until lightly combined. 9. Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, Invert the cake onto a wire rack that has been lightly
whip the cream on medium-high speed until stiff peaks coated with nonstick cooking spray. Cool completely. Store
form when the beater is raised. airtight: room temperature, 3 days; refrigerated, 1 week;
5. Starting on medium-low speed, gradually beat in the egg frozen, 3 months.
mixture and continue beating for 2 minutes. The mixture
will thicken into mayonnaise consistency (if high-butterfat Recipe excerpted with permission from The Cake Bible by
cream is used, it will be less thick.) Gradually beat in the Rose Levy Beranbaum and Woody Wolston published by
sugar; it should take about 30 seconds to incorporate it. William Morrow, October 2024.

*thepointers for success: The bowl and beaters for

whipping cream should not be chilled because the eggs
* understanding: Compared to a basic layer cake,
this cake has about 18 to 25 percent more butterfat,
will not emulsify as readily if the whipped cream is too cold. depending on the fat content of the cream, and almost the
same amount of water content. It also has one extra egg,
High (40 percent) butterfat heavy cream produces a finer, balanced by less baking powder. A lower amount of vanilla is
more tender crumb. needed because of the floral quality of the cream.

*of complementary
For the smoothest top crust, to eliminate bubbles from the
airy batter, start filling the pan by spreading a little of the adornments: A light dusting
batter into the grooves of the pan and pressing it in with a powdered sugar or whipped cream and berries.
silicone spatula. Then add the remaining batter.
september | october 2024 32
 bread box
POWERED BY Red Star® Yeast

Date-Pecan Bread,
page 36

33 bake
bak
PHOTOGRAPHY BY

b a k e from
ba f ro
rrom
o m scratch
s c rat
sc ra
STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

att ch
h
OLA AGBODZA
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD / STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
DELIGHTS
Cranberry-Walnut
Bread, page 36

Rustic autumn
breads ࢅlled with
buttery, crunchy
nuts and chewy
dried fruit

For even more delicious

yeast bread recipes, plus tips
and tricks for working with yeast,
don’t miss our Baking with Yeast
series with Red Star® on the
Bake from Scratch YouTube channel.
Subscribe now at
youtube.com/bakefromscratch
so you never miss an episode.
 Looking for
more spectacular
bread recipes?
Head to
bakefromscratch.com
and check out our
Bread Box collection!

35 bake from scratch

DATE-PECAN BREAD warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until let stand in a warm, draft-free place
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf doubled in size, 1 to 11⁄2 hours. (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 1½ to
6. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 hours. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours
Enriching a bread dough with milk helps 7. Brush egg white onto dough. or up to overnight.
create a soft, tender crumb, and it adds a 8. Bake until top is golden brown and an 3. Line a large baking sheet with
little sweetness. The caramellike taste of instant-read thermometer inserted in parchment paper; dust parchment with
dates enhances the toasted pecans in every center registers 200°F (93°C), 45 to semolina flour.
bite of this soft loaf. 50 minutes, loosely covering with foil 4. Heavily dust a work surface with bread
after 25 minutes of baking to prevent flour; turn out dough. Using floured
3½ cups (445 grams) bread flour, plus excess browning. Let cool in pan for hands, lightly press dough into a 15x10-
more for dusting 10 minutes. Using excess parchment as inch rectangle. Starting with one short
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated handles, remove from pan, and let cool side, roll up dough into a log, pressing
sugar completely on a wire rack. Store in an edges to seal. Place log, seam side down,
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) airtight container for up to 3 days. on prepared pan. Sprinkle top of dough
instant yeast* with semolina flour. Loosely cover dough
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt *We used Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®. with a greased sheet of plastic wrap,
1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
(120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C) CRANBERRY-WALNUT BREAD (75°F/24°C) until puffed, 1 to 1½ hours.
1 large egg (50 grams), room Make 1 (13-inch) loaf 5. Position oven racks in bottom and
temperature center of oven. Preheat oven to 500°F
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted Many bread recipes call for adding a pan of (260°C). Score top of dough as desired.
butter, melted water to the oven while baking. The steam Place on center oven rack. Carefully
2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey from the water keeps the surface of your place 4 cups (960 grams) boiling water in
1 cup (156 grams) whole pitted dates, dough moist and flexible, delaying the crust a baking pan on bottom oven rack.
chopped formation during the early stages of baking 6. Immediately reduce oven temperature
3⁄4 cup (85 grams) finely chopped so it can rise beautifully. This creates a more to 425°F (220°C). Bake for 20 minutes.
toasted pecans open interior and a crisper crust. Loosely cover with foil to prevent excess
1 large egg white (30 grams), lightly browning, and bake until an instant-
beaten 4¾ cups (603 grams) bread flour, plus read thermometer inserted in center
more for dusting of loaf registers 200°F (93°C), 20 to
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 4 teaspoons (12 grams) kosher salt 25 minutes more. Remove from pan, and
the paddle attachment, beat bread flour, 1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) let cool completely on a wire rack. Store
sugar, yeast, and salt at low speed until instant yeast* in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
combined. Add warm milk; beat until a 1 cup (128 grams) unsweetened dried
dough ball forms. Add egg, melted butter, cranberries *We used Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®.
and honey; beat until well combined. 1 cup (113 grams) chopped toasted
2. Switch to the dough hook attachment. walnuts
Beat at low speed until dough is smooth 2 cups (480 grams) warm water
and elastic and passes the windowpane (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
test (see page 113), 12 to 15 minutes. 2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey
Add dates and pecans; beat until well Semolina flour, for dusting
combined. 4 cups (960 grams) boiling water
3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.
Place dough in bowl, turning to grease 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer,
top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft- whisk together bread flour, salt,
free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in and yeast by hand; stir in
size, 1 to 11⁄2 hours. cranberries and walnuts. Add
4. Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking 2 cups (480 grams) warm
spray with flour. Line pan with parchment water and honey; using
paper, letting excess extend over sides of the paddle attachment,
pan. beat at low speed until
5. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured a sticky dough forms,
surface. Gently pat dough into a 12x9- about 30 seconds.
inch rectangle. Starting with one short 2. Spray a large bowl
side, roll up dough into a log, pressing with cooking spray. Place
seam to seal. Place log, seam side down, dough in bowl, turning
in prepared pan. Cover and let rise in a to grease top. Cover and
 baking with britney

Indulge in
some of my
favorite fall
ࢆavors in
these decadent
desserts

CAKES

PHOTOGRAPHY, RECIPE DEVELOPMENT, AND STYLING BY

BRITNEY BROWN-CHAMBERLAIN
Having visited more
than 33 countries,
Maryland-based Britney
Brown-Chamberlain
draws inspiration for
her blog, Britney Breaks
Bread, from each region
she encounters, making
Britney a deliciously
welcome addition to our magazine
as the Bake from Scratch 2024
contributing editor. Britney is
releasing her debut cookbook,
Bake Until Golden Brown, ࡼlled with
her sweet and savory heirloom
recipes, modern twists on classic
desserts, and more. Order it now at
hoࢂmanmediastore.com.
Follow Britney on Instagram at
@britneybreaksbread and her website,
britneybreaksbread.com.

september | october 2024 38

 2. For cake base: In the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
beat granulated sugar, brown sugar, oil,
and eggs at medium speed for 2 to
3 minutes. Add sour cream and vanilla,
and beat until smooth. Add flour, cocoa,
baking powder, baking soda, and kosher
salt. Fold until combined.
3. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat
milk on high until bubbles form around the
sides of the bowl, about 45 seconds. Add
to batter, and stir until fully combined.
4. For cheesecake: Beat cream cheese in
a large mixing bowl with an electric mixer
on medium speed for 1 minute. Then
add sugar, eggs, vanilla extract, and sour
cream. Mix until combined and smooth,
1 to 2 minutes.
5. Spread three-fourths (about 3 cups
or 778 grams) of cake batter into the
prepared pan. Then spread half (about
1¾ cups or 359 grams) of the cheesecake
mixture on top, leaving about a ½-inch
border around the sides. Top with the
remaining cake batter, and then top with
the remaining cheesecake mixture.
6. Add the boiling water to a 13x9-inch
BLACK COCOA SWIRLED ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda baking dish or pan; place on the bottom
CHEESECAKE ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt rack of the oven. Place the springform
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake ¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk pan on the middle rack of the oven.
7. Bake until the edges are set and the
Rich, dark cocoa meets creamy, dreamy Cheesecake: center is slightly jiggly, 65 to 70 minutes.
cheesecake. The luscious black cocoa cake 2 (8-ounce) packages (454 grams) Let the cake cool completely and then
base is a moist yet fluffy cake with velvety cream cheese, room temperature refrigerate it to set, at least 8 hours or
cheesecake marbled throughout, providing ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar overnight.
delicate ribbons of creamy goodness. To 2 large eggs (100 grams), room 8. For topping: Combine cream cheese
top it off, there’s a smooth cream cheese temperature and butter in a bowl. Use an electric
layer bringing a tangy sweetness that 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract hand mixer to mix together on medium
complements the deep cocoa flavors. ¼ cup (60 grams) sour cream, room speed for 30 seconds and then add
Sprinkle some crushed chocolate sandwich temperature confectioners’ sugar and vanilla. Mix until
cookies on top for a delightful crunch and combined and smooth, about 1 minute.
added chocolaty bliss! 6 cups (1,440 grams) water, boiled Spread on top of cold cheesecake, and
top with crushed chocolate cookies
Cake base: Topping: sandwiches, if desired. Refrigerate in an
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 4 ounces (113 grams) cream cheese, airtight container for up to 3 days. Best
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light softened served cold.
brown sugar 4 tablespoons (57 grams) salted butter,
½ cup (112 grams) vegetable oil room temperature *I used Modern Mountain Baking Company
2 large eggs (100 grams), room 1 cup (130 grams) confectioners’ sugar Black Cocoa Powder and Oreos.
temperature ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
¾ cup (180 grams) sour cream APPLE BUTTER SWIRL POUND
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract Garnish: 4 to 5 cream-filled chocolate CAKE
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour cookie sandwiches*, crushed Makes 1 (12-cup) Bundt cake
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (75 grams)
black cocoa powder* 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line This apple butter-swirled pound cake is
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform the ultimate autumn treat! It’s a buttery,
pan with parchment paper. rich pound cake, delicately marbled with

39 bake from scratch

a rich apple butter swirl that infuses every extract and kosher salt and mix until just 7. Add three-fourths of the remaining
bite with the sweet, spiced essence of fresh combined, 10 to 15 seconds. pound cake batter (about 5½ cups or
apples. The cake is complemented by a 4. Add half of the flour, and mix until 1,296 grams) to the Bundt pan. Use the
drizzle of warm cinnamon glaze, adding a combined, about 15 seconds. Add the back of a spoon to create a 1-inch wide,
fragrant and cozy finish. Each slice offers a sour cream; scrape down the sides of the 1-inch-deep well in the center of batter
blend of flavors and textures, making it the bowl, and mix until combined, about all around the pan. Add the apple butter
perfect dessert to savor on a crisp fall day. 15 seconds. Add the remainder of the mixture to the well and then cover with
flour; scrape down the sides of the bowl, the remaining pound cake batter.
Batter: and mix for about 30 seconds. 8. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
1 cup (227 grams) salted butter, room 5. For filling: Add apple butter to a piece near the center comes out clean, 60 to
temperature of cheesecloth, and gently squeeze to 75 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan
½ cup (113 grams) butter-flavored remove as much moisture as possible. for 15 minutes and then remove onto a
shortening You should have about ¼ cup (about wire rack to cool completely.
3 cups (600 grams) granulated sugar 70 grams), and the apple butter should 9. For glaze: Once the pound cake is
6 large eggs (300 grams), room be paste-like when it’s ready to use. cooled, whisk together all of the glaze
temperature 6. Add apple butter, ½ cup (113 grams) ingredients in a bowl, and pour on top
1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract cake batter, flour, and cinnamon to a of the cooled cake. Store in an airtight
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt small bowl. Whisk everything together container for up to 3 days.
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour until combined.
1 cup (240 grams) sour cream, room *I used Musselman’s Apple Butter.
temperature

Filling:
1 cup (272 grams) apple butter*
1 tablespoon (8 grams) all-purpose
flour
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon

Glaze:
2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’
sugar
⅓ to ½ cup (80 to 120 grams) heavy
whipping cream
1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 grams) water
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Pinch kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C).

Spray a 12-cup Bundt pan with baking
spray with flour.
2. For batter: In the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the paddle attachment, cream
together butter and butter-flavored
shortening for 2 minutes and then add
the sugar and continue to cream together
for 3 minutes until light and fluffy.
3. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and
begin adding eggs, one at a time, ensuring
that each egg is fully incorporated prior
to adding the next, 20 to 30 seconds
between each addition; after the
addition of the third egg, scrape down
the sides of the bowl and continue to
add the remainder of the eggs. Once
all of the eggs are added, add the vanilla

september | october 2024 40

baking school in-depth

CARAMEL
CAKE Discover the
timeless charm of
this swoon-worthy
Southern staple

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE

FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD AND KATIE MOON DICKERSON / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
C
aramel cake is a beloved gem in Southern culture, treasured for its luscious layers of soft,
buttery cake embraced by a decadent caramel icing that firms up at room temperature,
creating a delicate crunch with every bite. The icing comes together easily, thanks to the
deep flavor of brown sugar, already infused with the essence of caramel. Achieve the perfect texture
with just a touch of milk, butter, and cream while salt and vanilla provide balance and complexity. If
you’re anxious about the cake being overly sweet, don’t worry. The magic of caramel is its trace of
bitterness, adding a captivating depth that makes each bite simply irresistible.

september | october 2024 42

 CARAMEL LAYER CAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

Indulge in the sweet nostalgia of Southern baking with this

irresistible caramel cake. Each bite is a masterpiece of buttery layers
enrobed in a decadent caramel coating. The cake is best kept well-
covered at room temperature and devoured within three days of
being assembled. Leftovers should be wrapped well and refrigerated
for up to one week. Whether enjoyed freshly iced or chilled, this
timeless treat is perfect for any special occasion.

1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened

2⅔ cups (533 grams) granulated sugar
⅓ cup (75 grams) neutral oil
4 large eggs (200 grams), room temperature
2½ teaspoons (10 grams) vanilla extract
3⅔ cups (458 grams) all-purpose flour
3½ teaspoons (17.5 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
1⅓ cups (320 grams) whole buttermilk, room temperature
Cooked Caramel Icing (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 3 (9-inch) round cake

pans with baking spray with flour.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
beat butter, sugar, and oil at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to
4 minutes, stopping to scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Add eggs,
one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in vanilla. COOKED CARAMEL ICING
3. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. Makes about 4 cups
With mixer on low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter
mixture alternately with buttermilk, beginning and ending with 3 cups (660 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar*
flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
Divide batter among prepared pans (about 600 grams each), ½ cup (120 grams) whole milk
smoothing tops with a small offset spatula. Tap pans on a kitchen ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream
towel-lined counter several times to settle batter and release 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
any air bubbles; smooth tops again, if necessary. 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 2½ cups (300 grams) confectioners’ sugar
25 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove
from pans, and let cool completely on wire racks. 1. In a medium saucepan, bring brown sugar, butter, milk, cream,
5. Level cooled cake layers, if desired. Place 1 cake layer on a and salt to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently; cook,
serving plate. Working quickly, pour and spread 1 cup (300 grams) stirring frequently, until an instant-read thermometer registers
Cooked Caramel Icing onto cake layer. Top with second cake 230°F (110°C) to 235°F (113°C), 7 to 10 minutes. Remove
layer; pour and spread 1 cup (300 grams) icing onto cake layer. from heat.
Top with remaining cake layer. Pour remaining icing on top of 2. Pour caramel into the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer fitted
cake, letting it run down sides, gently smoothing with an offset with the whisk attachment. (See Note.) Slowly increase mixer
spatula. Let stand until icing is cool and set. speed to medium-low. Add vanilla, beating until combined.

*Work
Gradually add confectioners’ sugar, beating until combined.
pro tips Scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Beat at medium-high speed
quickly, and don’t fuss too much with the icing as it sets. until smooth and well combined, 20 to 30 seconds. Use
It will feather, become crusty, and pull away from the cake layers. immediately while still warm.

If the icing has set too much before you pour it, reheat it in the *We used C&H® Light Brown Sugar.
top of a double boiler, stirring occasionally. Alternatively, heat
on high in a microwave-safe bowl in 30-second intervals, stirring Note: Do not use a glass stand mixer bowl; it cannot withstand the
well between each, until icing is smooth and pourable. high temperature of the caramel.

43 bake from scratch

 Kitchen Confidants SPOT ON: An instant-read thermometer eliminates
Here are a few standout tools to help you guesswork when making the caramel icing. As soon as the
make the perfect caramel cake thermometer registers anywhere from 230°F (110°C) to
235°F (113°C), the icing is ready for whipping.
THE PERFECT POUR: Pouring caramel icing onto the cake RULE THE ROUNDS: When it comes to desserts, height
is a breeze when you use a measuring cup with a pouring spout always makes a statement. This cake, boasting three towering
and sturdy handle. Say goodbye to messy spills and hello to layers of buttery goodness, is anything but basic. Its impressive
effortless pouring so that every last drop of decadent caramel stature is owed to round cake pans, a staple among our essential
goodness is on your cake and not all over your kitchen. baking tools.
PETITE AND POWERFUL: An offset spatula’s slender, angled COOL IT: A wire rack allows air to circulate around the cake
blade gives you optimal control, making it easier to achieve a layers, ensuring they cool quickly and evenly on all sides.
smooth top when spreading the caramel icing between the layers Elevating the layers on wire racks allows air to flow underneath,
and evenly coating the top and sides of the cake. preventing them from becoming soggy by trapping steam.

september | october 2024 44

 The Art of Creating Caramel Icing
Caramel icing is the crowning glory of caramel cake, enhancing the cake with its
luxurious ࡽavor and texture. Once set, it delicately shatters with every bite, revealing
tender, buttery cake layers generously ࡼlled with even more heavenly icing. Follow a
few simple rules and you’ll be on your way to caramel cake perfection.
CHILL OUT: Warm cake will make the icing slide
around, so make sure your cake layers are completely
cool before you even think about making the icing.

PREPARATION IS KEY: Gather all your ingredients

and equipment before you start. Once you begin
making the icing, things move quickly, so having
everything within arm’s reach is essential.

SPREAD THE LOVE: A measuring cup is your best

friend here, allowing you to easily pour the smooth
icing onto the layers without it ending up all over your
countertop. Work quickly and confidently before the
icing has a chance to harden.

LET IT SET: Allow your finished cake to set for a

bit before slicing into it. This gives the caramel icing
a chance to firm up, making for cleaner slices and a
more polished appearance.

september | october 2024 46

 To the Rescue
If your icing does harden and become grainy (it happens!),
don’t panic. Save it by using a double boiler over low heat and
stirring occasionally. The steam from the water under the bowl
and the periodic stirring will heat the icing just enough to keep
it perfectly smooth and pourable. Alternatively, heat icing in
a microwave-safe bowl on high in 30-second intervals, stirring
well between intervals. Crisis averted!

47 bake from scratch

 Assembling
the Layers
Once the cake layers and the icing are
made, it’s time to assemble the cake
Level cooled cake layers, if desired. Place
1 cake layer on a serving plate. Working
quickly, pour and spread 1 cup (300 grams)
Cooked Caramel Icing onto cake layer. Top
with second cake layer; pour and spread 1 cup
(300 grams) icing onto cake layer. Top with
remaining cake layer. Pour remaining icing
around top of cake, letting it run down sides,
gently smoothing with an offset spatula. Let
stand until icing is cooled and set.

49 bake from scratch

 Simple Slicing Secrets
After investing hours in creating a stunning layer cake, you deserve
a ࡽawless presentation every time. Now, with a simple slicing trick,
you can achieve that picture-perfect look eಀortlessly. Instead of the
traditional wedge slices, try cutting a horizontal slab across about
one-third of the cake. Then slice that slab into 1-inch-wide strips,
creating elegant columns of cake. Each layer stays pristine while the
ࡼlling and icing stay right where they belong. So, impress your guests
with expertly sliced layer cakes and seemingly endless servings.

september | october 2024 50

 PUMPKIN

Embrace the
versatility of
this favorite
fall gourd

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE

FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD AND KATIE MOON DICKERSON / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
Pumpkin Basque
Cheesecake,
page 62
Pumpkin Soda Bread Rolls,
page 56
Glazed Pumpkin
Spice Scones,
page 55
 GLAZED PUMPKIN SPICE SCONES
Makes 12 scones

Using cold cream helps keep the butter from melting as

you work the dough and creates a flakier crumb structure.
With delicious warm spices and sweet squash flavor, these
scones will become your quick fall treat on repeat.

4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more

for dusting
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
3 tablespoons (45 grams) baking powder
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt
2 to 2½ teaspoons (4 to 5 grams) pumpkin pie spice,
divided
1¼ cups (284 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed
1 (15-ounce) can (425 grams) pumpkin
7 to 8 tablespoons (105 to 120 grams) plus 1⁄3 cup
(80 grams) cold heavy whipping cream, divided
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract, divided
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, granulated
sugar, baking powder, salt, and 1½ teaspoons
(3 grams) pie spice. Using a pastry blender or
2 forks, cut in cold butter until mixture is crumbly.
Add pumpkin, ⅓ cup (80 grams) cold cream, and
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla, stirring with a fork just
until a shaggy dough forms; knead dough in bowl
until it fully comes together.
3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and
gently knead, fold, and rotate dough until smooth.
(Dough will still be soft.) Divide dough in half. Pat
half of dough into a 7-inch circle (about 1 thick). Cut
into 6 triangles. Place on prepared pan. Repeat with
remaining dough. Freeze until firm, about 30 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
5. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 tablespoon (15 grams) cold cream. Brush egg
wash on top of scones.
6. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick
inserted in center comes out clean, 20 to
25 minutes. Let cool on pan for 5 minutes.
Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a
wire rack.
7. In a medium bowl, whisk together confectioners’
sugar, 6 tablespoons (90 grams) cold cream, and
remaining 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla until
smooth. Spoon and spread desired amount of glaze
onto cooled scones. For optional spiced glaze, stir
remaining ½ to 1 teaspoon (1 to 2 grams) pie spice
and up to remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) cold
cream into remaining glaze until desired color and
consistency are reached. Drizzle onto scones; let
stand until glaze is set. Store in an airtight container
for up to 3 days.
55 bake from scratch
PUMPKIN SODA BREAD ROLLS SMOKY MASCARPONE SPREAD 3. In a large bowl, whisk eggs until frothy.
Makes 12 rolls Makes 1 cup Whisk in pumpkin, granulated sugar,
brown sugar, and vanilla until combined.
Pepitas, a type of shelled pumpkin seed, 1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams) Gradually add flour mixture, whisking
are sprinkled on top for an added layer mascarpone cheese*, room until just combined. Spread batter into
of texture as well as to complement the temperature prepared pan.
pumpkin with their slightly sweet and subtle 1 tablespoon (14 grams) olive oil 4. Bake until cake springs back when
nutty flavor. ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt lightly pressed in center and a wooden
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground black pick inserted in center comes out clean,
6 cups (750 grams) all-purpose flour, pepper about 15 minutes. (Do not overbake.)
plus more for dusting ½ teaspoon (1 gram) smoked paprika Immediately run a thin knife around
⅓ cup (66 grams) granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon ground red pepper edges of cake to loosen. Evenly dust
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking soda surface of cake with confectioners’ sugar,
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt 1. In a small bowl, stir together all and place a clean kitchen towel on top
½ cup (65 grams) roasted salted ingredients until smooth. Refrigerate in of cake. Top with a large baking sheet
pepitas, plus more for sprinkling an airtight container for up to 1 week. or cutting board, and invert cake onto
½ cup (50 grams) old-fashioned oats, towel; gently peel off parchment. Dust
plus more for sprinkling *We used BelGioioso® Mascarpone Cheese. confectioners’ sugar onto cake. Starting
1 (15-ounce) can (425 grams) with one long side, gently roll up cake and
pumpkin PUMPKIN ROULADE towel together. Place, seam side down, on
1¼ cups (300 grams) whole buttermilk Makes 1 (16- to 17-inch) cake roll a wire rack, and let cool completely.
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted 5. Carefully unroll cooled cake. Spread
Smoky Mascarpone Spread (recipe When creating a roulade, it’s important to Cream Cheese Filling onto cake, leaving
follows) always roll the cake up while it’s warm. The a ¼-inch border on long side that is
heat and moisture of the cake help keep the bottom seam. Gently reroll cake and
1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line crumbs together so it doesn’t crack as you filling without towel. Carefully transfer
rimmed baking sheets with parchment roll it. Once cooled, the cake will retain its roulade to a baking sheet or serving
paper. curl and easily roll back up after it’s filled. platter, and refrigerate until filling is set,
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, about 20 minutes, or until ready to serve.
sugar, baking soda, and salt; stir in pepitas 1½ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour 6. Just before serving, trim ¼ to ½ inch
and oats. 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder off ends of roulade, if desired. Garnish
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.
pumpkin, buttermilk, and melted butter. cinnamon Refrigerate in an airtight container for
Stir pumpkin mixture into flour mixture 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) pumpkin pie up to 3 days.
until a shaggy dough forms. Gently knead spice
dough in bowl just until it comes together. ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt CREAM CHEESE FILLING
4. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda Makes about 2½ cups
surface. Divide into 12 portions (about 5 large eggs (250 grams), room
140 grams each). Roll each portion into a temperature 1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams)
ball, and place at least 1½ inches apart on 1 cup (244 grams) canned pumpkin cream cheese, softened
prepared pans. Using a sharp knife, deeply ¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar ½ cup (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar
score top of each roll with a “X.” Sprinkle ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
pepitas and oats on top, gently pressing brown sugar 1 cup (240 grams) cold heavy
to adhere. 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract whipping cream
5. Bake until rolls are golden brown and Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
an instant-read thermometer inserted in Cream Cheese Filling (recipe follows) 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
center registers at least 205°F (96°C), with the whisk attachment, beat cream
20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on pans for 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray cheese, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla
5 to 10 minutes. Serve warm with Smoky a 17x12¼-inch rimmed baking sheet with at medium-high speed until fluffy, 1 to
Mascarpone Spread. Store in an airtight baking spray with flour. Line bottom 2 minutes, stopping to scrape bottom
container for up to 3 days. of pan with parchment paper; spray and sides of bowl. With mixer on

*Thisprorecipe
tip
is easily halved if you prefer
parchment.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, cinnamon, pie spice, salt,
medium-low speed, add cold cream in
a slow, steady stream; scrape sides of
bowl. Increase mixer speed to medium-
a smaller batch, and the baked rolls and baking soda. high, and beat until well combined and
freeze well, too. Let them thaw in the stiff peaks form. Use immediately.
refrigerator and then reheat in a 300°F
(150°C) oven.
september | october 2024 56
Pumpkin
Roulade,
page 56
 Save Your Squash
If your recipe does not use a full can of pumpkin, fear not. It freezes well,
so you can keep it on hand for other uses, like homemade pumpkin butter!
For every 1 cup (244 grams) canned pumpkin, combine it in a saucepan
with ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon (2 grams) pumpkin
pie spice, and 1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice, and cook over low
heat, stirring frequently, until it has thickened and turned a rich brown
color. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

Pumpkin
Snickerdoodle Bars,
page 62
JUMBO PUMPKIN-PECAN
SWEET ROLLS
Makes 6 large rolls

Pouring heavy cream onto your rolls before

baking gives them a meltingly soft and fluffy
texture and creates a delicious syrup in the
bottom of the pan as the filling melts and
mixes in. Top these giant rolls with a generous
swath of frosting and toasted nuts for an epic
autumnal indulgence.

Dough:
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk cover
¾ cup (183 grams) canned pumpkin recipe
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
softened
4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour, 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk mixture onto dough, leaving a ¼-inch
plus more for dusting together 2 cups (250 grams) flour, border on one short side. Sprinkle pecans
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar, salt, yeast, and nutmeg by onto butter mixture. Starting with short
brown sugar hand. Add warm milk mixture and vanilla; side opposite border, roll up dough into a
2½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) kosher salt using the paddle attachment, beat at low log, pinching seam to seal. Trim ends. Cut
21⁄4 teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast* speed until combined, about 1 minute. log into 6 slices (about 2 inches each).
1⁄4 teaspoon ground nutmeg With mixer on low speed, gradually add Place slices, cut side up, in prepared pan.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract remaining 2 cups (250 grams) flour, Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
beating until a shaggy dough forms. place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size,
Filling: Scrape sides of bowl. 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2⁄3 cup (147 grams) firmly packed light 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
brown sugar Beat at medium-low speed until dough 9. Pour cream all over rolls.
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, becomes smooth and elastic, 12 to 10. Bake until golden brown and an
room temperature 15 minutes. (Dough will be tacky but instant-read thermometer inserted in
1 tablespoon (6 grams) pumpkin pie should not stick to sides of bowl.) Turn center registers at least 190°F (88°C),
spice out dough onto a clean surface, and shape about 30 minutes. Let cool in pan for
¼ teaspoon kosher salt into a smooth round. 20 minutes. Using excess parchment as
¾ cup (84 grams) chopped pecans 4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough handles, remove from pan, and let cool
in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover for 10 minutes on a wire rack.
¼ cup (60 grams) heavy whipping and let rise in a warm, draft-free place 11. For frosting: In the bowl of stand
cream (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, mixer fitted with the whisk attachment,
45 minutes to 1 hour. (Alternatively, beat cream cheese and butter at medium
Frosting: refrigerate dough overnight. Punch down speed until smooth and creamy, stopping
1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams) dough, and let stand at room temperature to scrape bottom and sides of bowl.
cream cheese, softened for 30 minutes before shaping). Beat in maple syrup and vanilla. Add
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, 5. For filling: In a small bowl, stir together 3 tablespoons (21 grams) confectioners’
softened brown sugar, butter, pie spice, and salt sugar, beating until thick, smooth,
2 tablespoons (42 grams) maple syrup until smooth. and spreadable; beat in remaining
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract 6. Lightly spray a 13x9-inch baking pan 1 tablespoon (7 grams) confectioners’
3 to 4 tablespoons (21 to 28 grams) with baking spray with flour. Line pan with sugar, if needed.
confectioners’ sugar, divided parchment paper, letting excess extend 12. Spread frosting onto warm or room
over all sides of pan. temperature rolls. Garnish with pecans, if
Garnish: toasted finely chopped pecans 7. Lightly punch down dough, and turn desired. Store in an airtight container for
out onto a lightly floured surface. Roll up to 3 days.
1. For dough: In a small saucepan, heat into an 18x12-inch rectangle with one
milk, pumpkin, and butter over medium- short side facing you. Spread butter *We used Red Star® Quick-Rise Instant Yeast.
low heat, stirring frequently, until
butter is melted and an instant-read * pro tip
thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to For 12 smaller rolls, roll the dough in step 7 starting with one long side. Cut into 12 slices,
130°F (54°C). about 1½ inches thick. Bake as directed.
september | october 2024 60
PUMPKIN BASQUE
CHEESECAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

This style of cheesecake was created by Chef

Santi Rivera at his family’s restaurant, La 4.. Bake until top is deep
4
Viña, in the Basque region of Spain. Baked ggo o
golden brown and an
at a higher temperature than American-style in ns
instant-read thermometer
cheesecake, this version develops a deeply iinserted
in ns in center registers
caramelized, almost burnt top crust that 15 50 (66°C) to 155°F
150°F
conceals a smooth, custard-like interior. ((68°C),
(6 68 45 to 50 minutes.
Basque-style cheesecake is traditionally LLe et cool in pan on a wire rack
Let
served still warm or at room temperature, ffor
foor 30 minutes.
without toppings or accompaniments, as two 5.. F
5 For traditional serving,
small slices. reem
remove sides of pan, and serve
wa or at room temperature on
wa
warm
4 (8-ounce) packages (907 grams) ppaar
parchment paper. Alternatively, let cool
cream cheese, softened coom
completely, and refrigerate until cold and
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar set at least 3 hours, or up to overnight.
se
set
set,
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt Re
Re
Refrigerate in an airtight container for up
5 large eggs (250 grams), room too 3 days. 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C).

2
temperature
large egg yolks (37 grams), room
temperature
*
After
A
pro tip
p
ft adding the dry ingredients, blend
ft
Lightly spray a 13x9-inch baking pan with
baking spray with flour. Line pan with
parchment paper, letting excess extend
1¼ cups (300 grams) heavy whipping tthhe batter with an immersion blender.
the over sides of pan.
cream TTh
h
Though not essential, it will help get rid of 2. For dough: In a medium light-colored
1¼ cups (305 grams) canned pumpkin any stubborn lumps of cream cheese and
an
any skillet, melt butter over medium
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract o for a smoother texture.
flour heat. Cook, stirring or swirling skillet
¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour frequently, until butter turns a medium-
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) pumpkin pie spice PUMPKIN
PU
P U SNICKERDOODLE brown color and has a nutty aroma. Pour
BARS
BAA butter into a large heatproof bowl, and let
1. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Makes
M
Ma
a about 18 bars cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Lightly spray a 9-inch springform pan with 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
cooking spray. Line pan with 2 (16x12- With
Wi
W i the gooey, chewy texture of a blondie cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda,
inch) pieces of parchment paper layered aannd the lightness and soft bite of a cake,
and salt, nutmeg, and cloves.
crisscross, folding excess over sides of pan. tthese
thhe bars are the best of both worlds. 4. Whisk pumpkin, brown sugar, and
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted vanilla into browned butter until well
with the whisk attachment, beat cream D
Do o
Dough: combined. Gradually stir in flour mixture
cheese at medium speed until smooth 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter until just combined and no dry streaks
and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping 3¾
3 ¾ cups (469 grams) all-purpose flour remain. Spread half of batter into
to scrape sides of bowl. Add sugar and 2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground prepared pan.
salt; beat at low speed just until smooth cinnamon 5. For topping: In a small bowl, whisk
and combined, about 1 minute. Add eggs 1½½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder together granulated sugar and cinnamon.
and egg yolks, one at a time, beating 11½
½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking soda 6. In another small bowl, whisk together
until combined after each addition and 1¼ teaspoons (3.75 grams) kosher salt
1¼ flour and half of cinnamon sugar.
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg Sprinkle flour mixture onto batter. Spoon
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together ¼ teaspoon ground cloves remaining batter onto flour mixture, and
cream, pumpkin, and vanilla. With mixer 1 (15-ounce) can (425 grams) pumpkin gently spread into an even layer. Sprinkle
on low speed, add cream mixture to 2⅔ cups (587 grams) firmly packed light
2⅔ with remaining cinnamon sugar.
cream cheese mixture in a slow, steady brown sugar* 7. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
stream; gradually increase mixer speed 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract in center comes out with a few moist
to medium, and beat until well combined, crumbs, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool
about 1 minute, stopping to scrape sides TTopping:
Toop completely in pan on a wire rack. Using
of bowl. Sift flour and pie spice onto ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar excess parchment as handles, remove
batter; beat until just combined. (See 1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground from pan, and cut into bars. Store in an
Pro Tip.) Pour batter into prepared pan. cinnamon airtight container for up to 3 days.
Gently tap sides of pan 2 to 3 times to 2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose
release any large air bubbles. flour *We used C&H® Light Brown Sugar.
september | october 2024 62
 8
e6g
pa
s,
er
ng
Fi

s e
nne
i e
erV
ng
e Gi
t
c ola
Cho
bl e
Dou

63 bake from scratch

Edd Kimber, the ࢅrst-ever winner of The Great British Bake Oಀ,
invites you to share in the magic of baking in smaller, intimate
portions in his latest cookbook, Small Batch Cookies

Single Serve Pecan

Butterscotch Cookie,
Small Batch Cookies
p. 164

BY AMBER WILSON / PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDD KIMBER

 Reverse Chocolate
Chip Cookies,
Small Batch Cookies
p. 122

Edd Kimber is a baker and food writer

based in London, England. He is the
author of The Boy Who Bakes (2011),
Say It with Cake (2012), Patisserie Made
Simple (2014), One Tin Bakes (2020),
One Tin Bakes Easy (2021), and the Sunday
Times best-selling Small Batch Bakes
(2022). His latest cookbook, Small Batch
Cookies, is available September 17.

Find Edd on Instagram at

@theboywhobakes, on Substack
(eddkimber.substack.com), and on
his website, theboywhobakes.co.uk.

65 bake from scratch

 Lemon Custard Creams, Small Batch Cookies p. 115

E
dd Kimber’s recipes are the culinary equivalent two, a cookie for one when a craving hits. Baking books had
of slipping into a favorite cozy sweater—reliable, generally ignored this style, and it felt like the right moment
comforting, and always there when you need them. to share my love of small-batch baking.”
In his latest book, the fourth in his “useful baking series,”
you’ll find exactly what you expect: accessible, dependable Each of the six chapters in his latest cookbook is themed
recipes that bring comfort with every bite. “I call them around delightful textures and flavors, such as “Soft &
‘useful’ because my aim with these books was to remove Sumptuous,” “Crisp & Crunchy,” and “Ooey Gooey.”
specific barriers to entry, the requirement to own huge From Edd’s current obsession—Malted Black and White
amounts of bakeware and the expense of ingredients and Cookies—to ingenious techniques like toasting flour to
the large batch sizes normally found in baking recipes,” bring out its nutty essence and enhancing browned butter
says Edd. with milk powder, these recipes are perfect for a cozy
gathering on a rainy Wednesday evening or satisfying those
The idea of small-batch baking was born during COVID-19 late-night solo cookie hankerings.
lockdown. “When we were stuck at home, I was still baking,
but it was harder to share that baking with others. Naturally, Edd’s recipes remind us to savor the simple joys of life with
I started making smaller batches that my boyfriend and I a heartfelt mission to spread happiness through baking. As
could share or smaller batches I could share with neighbors,” he puts it, “I like to think my purpose is to spread the joy
Edd explains. “That period of time made people realize that of baking, to help people find a little bright spot in their
baking can fit into our lives not just for the big birthday week, to give them the confidence to bake, to make it as
party or holiday meals; it can be the date night dessert for approachable as possible.”

september | october 2024 66

PISTACHIO EGG YOLK baking tray (sheet pan) with parchment FOR THE FILLING AND COATING
SHORTBREAD WITH BERRY paper. 25 grams (1 ounce/2 tablespoons)
GLAZE 4. Using a sharp paring knife, slice the unsalted butter, at room temperature
Makes 6 log of dough into 6 equal pieces [about 50 grams (1¾ ounces/¼ cup +
⅓ inch/0.8cm thick] and place on the 3 tablespoons) icing (powdered)
These vibrant cookies use a traditional prepared baking tray. Bake for 20– sugar
method that seems to have fallen out of 22 minutes, rotating halfway through Pinch of fine sea salt
fashion but which makes for a particularly baking, or until the edges of the 10 grams (¼ ounce/1 heaped tablespoon)
tender shortbread—the cookies are made shortbread are golden. To ensure the finely diced stem ginger, plus
with the yolks from hard-boiled eggs. The shortbread is fully baked, carefully flip 1 tablespoon syrup from the jar
egg yolk helps to prevent excess gluten one of the cookies over. If the base is 100 grams (3½ ounces) dark chocolate,
development and results in a lighter, more evenly browned, the cookies are fully melted
melt-in-the-mouth texture. baked. If the centre looks a little dark,
almost like it is a little damp, bake for a 1. Line a baking tray (sheet pan) with
65 grams (2¼ ounces/¼ cup + few minutes more. Remove and allow to parchment paper. In a large bowl, beat
1 teaspoon) unsalted butter, at room cool before glazing. together the butter, vanilla and icing
temperature 5. To make the glaze, push the berries sugar until soft and creamy, 2–3 minutes.
40 grams (1½ ounces/3½ tablespoons) through a fine mesh sieve. You should It is very important that the butter starts
caster (superfine or granulated) sugar end up with about 15 grams (½ ounce) at room temperature and the texture is
Zest of ½ lemon worth of raspberry purée. Mix the purée very soft and creamy before you add the
Pinch of fine sea salt together with the icing sugar and salt until flour, otherwise the dough is hard to pipe.
½ teaspoon vanilla bean paste you have a thick glaze. Dip the tops of the Sift in the flour, cocoa powder, cornflour
1 large egg, hard-boiled cookies into the glaze and sprinkle with and salt and mix with a spatula until an
100 grams (3½ ounces/¾ cup + the chopped pistachios. Set the cookies evenly combined dough is formed.
1 tablespoon) plain (all-purpose) flour on the baking tray until the glaze sets. 2. Scrape the dough into a piping bag
25 grams (1 ounce/scant ¼ cup) finely 6. If stored in a sealed container, these fitted with a round star tip and pipe 7cm
chopped pistachios cookies will keep for 2–3 days. (2¾in) long strips onto the prepared
baking tray. Chill the piped cookies for
FOR THE BERRY GLAZE DOUBLE CHOCOLATE GINGER 20 minutes.
25 grams (1 ounce) raspberries VIENNESE FINGERS 3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C
60 grams (2¼ ounces/½ cup) icing Makes 6 Fan) 350°F, Gas Mark 4.
(powdered) sugar, sifted 4. Bake for about 12 minutes, or until
Pinch of fine sea salt When I was a kid, the Viennese finger was they look dry. Remove the tray from the
10 grams (¼ ounce/1 heaped always one of the first things I would reach oven and set aside until fully cool.
tablespoon) roughly chopped for when presented with a variety box of 5. For the filling, add the butter, icing
pistachios biscuits. These buttery and crisp cookies, sugar and salt to a bowl and beat together
dipped in a little chocolate, were heaven until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.
1. To make the shortbread, add the butter, to me. Now as an adult this version has Add the stem ginger and the syrup and
sugar, lemon zest, salt and vanilla to a my heart. This buttery cookie is made with beat briefly until evenly distributed.
mixing bowl and, using an electric hand cocoa to make it extra chocolatey and the Pipe or spread a layer of buttercream
mixer, beat together until combined, filling is no longer a simple buttercream: it is onto the bottom of half the cookies and
about 2 minutes. Scoop the egg yolk from infused with ginger to make it a little more sandwich together with a second cookie.
the egg, then add to the butter mixture sophisticated than the original. But it’s still To decorate, dip the cookies halfway into
and beat for a further 2–3 minutes until coated in chocolate, of course. the melted chocolate, allowing any excess
pale and fluffy, and no lumps of egg yolk chocolate to drip back into the bowl. Set
remain. Add the flour and pistachios and 95 grams (3¼ ounces/⅓ cup + the chocolate-coated cookies back on
mix on low speed just until a crumbly 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, the baking tray and refrigerate until the
dough is formed. very soft chocolate is set.
2. Tip the mixture out onto the work ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract 6. If stored covered, these cookies will
surface and use your hands to bring it 35 grams (1¼ ounces/5 tablespoons) keep for 2–3 days. They’ll be fine for
together as a uniform dough. Shape the icing (powdered) sugar longer, but the buttercream will start to
dough into a log that has a diameter of 75 grams (2½ ounces/½ cup + soften the cookies after that.
about 6cm (2½ inches). Wrap the dough 1½ tablespoons) plain (all-purpose)
in clingfilm (plastic wrap) or a reusable flour Note: Since stem ginger is not commonly
alternative and refrigerate for at least 15 grams (½ ounce/3 tablespoons) found in the US, we tested with 10 grams
1 hour, or until firm. cocoa powder minced candied ginger and omitted the
3. Preheat the oven to 170°C (150°C 1 tablespoon cornflour (cornstarch) syrup, which worked well. We also tested
Fan) 325°F, Gas Mark 3½, and line a Pinch of fine sea salt with an Ateco #865 piping tip.
september | october 2024 68
 PRETZEL CARAMEL
THUMBPRINTS
Makes 6

If sweet and salty is your thing, these cookies

are for you. Made with a light vanilla cookie
dough, they are rolled in crushed salted pretzels
and then filled with a dollop of salted caramel.
Very simple to make and incredibly moreish,
you may need to make a double batch.

60 grams (2¼ ounces/¼ cup) unsalted

butter, at room temperature
50 grams (1¾ ounces/¼ cup) caster
(granulated) sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
115 grams (4 ounces/⅔ cup + ¼ cup) plain
(all-purpose) flour
Pinch of fine sea salt

FOR THE COATING AND FILLING

1 large egg white, lightly beaten
50 grams (1¾ ounces) salted pretzels,
crushed into small pieces
60 grams (2¼ ounces/3 tablespoons) salted
caramel (shop-bought or homemade)

1. In a large bowl, using an electric hand

mixer or a wooden spoon, beat together the
butter and sugar for 5 minutes, or until light
and fluffy. Add the vanilla and beat briefly to
combine. Add the flour and salt and mix just
until a uniform dough is formed.
2. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces
[about 37 grams each] and roll each one
into a ball. Add the egg white to a small
bowl and the pretzels to a small plate. Roll
each ball of cookie dough in the egg white
to lightly coat, then transfer to the pretzels
Black Forest and roll until completely coated. Place on
Brownie Crinkles,
the prepared baking tray and, using your
Small Batch Cookies
thumb, press in the centre to make a well.
p. 82
Place the cookies in the refrigerator for
15–20 minutes.
3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C Fan)
350°F, Gas Mark 4.
4. Bake for 17–18 minutes until the cookies
are just starting to brown. Remove and set
aside for 5 minutes before spooning in the
caramel. Set aside until fully cooled and then
sprinkle with a little flaked sea salt.
5. If stored in a sealed container, these
cookies will keep for 2 days.

Note: We tested with Salted Caramel Sauce

on page 97.
FROSTED LONDON FOG
COOKIES
Makes 6

A London Fog is an Earl Grey and vanilla

latte, perfect for a wet and windy British
day. Sometimes the drink is sweetened
with a little honey and given another layer
of flavour with the addition of lavender.
Surprisingly, for a drink with London in its
name, the drink originates from Vancouver,
Canada. This cookie takes that drink
and uses the component parts to make a
deliciously fragrant, soft honey and Earl
Grey cookie, with a light vanilla buttercream
to decorate.

75 grams (2½ ounces/⅔ stick) unsalted

butter, diced
50 grams (1¾ ounces/¼ cup) caster
(superfine or granulated) sugar
25 grams (1 ounce/1 heaped tablespoon)
honey
1 Earl Grey tea bag
1 large egg yolk
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
100 grams (3½ ounces/¾ cup +
1 tablespoon) plain (all-purpose) flour
¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
(baking soda)
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
Ultimate Vegan Chocolate Chip Cookies,
FOR THE VANILLA BUTTERCREAM Small Batch Cookies p. 132
35 grams (1¼ ounces/2½ tablespoons)
unsalted butter, very soft
70 grams (2½ ounces/½ cup +
1 tablespoon) icing (powdered) sugar
Pinch of fine sea salt
½ teaspoon vanilla bean paste
1 tablespoon double (heavy) cream
Sprinkles, to decorate (optional) until smooth and fully combined. Add and creamy. Add the icing sugar, in two
the remaining dry ingredients and mix to batches, followed by the salt, and beat
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C form a batter. for at least 5 minutes, or until very pale
Fan) 350°F, Gas Mark 4 and line a baking 3. Using a 30ml (2-tablespoon) cookie and fluffy. Add the vanilla and cream and
tray (sheet pan) with parchment paper. scoop, spoon the batter into 6 equal beat for another minute or two until fully
2. Add the butter, sugar and honey to rounds on the prepared baking tray, combined. Spread the buttercream on
a small saucepan. Rip open the teabag setting them well apart to account for top of the cookies and finish with a light
and pour the tea leaves into the pan. spreading. Bake for about 12 minutes, dusting of sprinkles if you like.
Place the pan over a low–medium heat turning halfway through baking, or until 5. If stored in a sealed container, these
and cook, stirring occasionally, until the the centres of the cookies spring back to cookies will keep for up to 2 days.
butter has melted and the mixture is a light touch. Remove and set aside to
smooth. Pour into a mixing bowl through cool before frosting. Recipes excerpted with permission from
a fine mesh sieve to remove the tea 4. For the buttercream, add the butter to Small Batch Cookies by Edd Kimber,
leaves. Leave to cool for a few minutes, a large bowl and, using an electric mixer, published by Kyle Books, September
then add the egg yolk and vanilla and mix beat for about 3 minutes until very soft 2024.

september | october 2024 72

 TOGETHER
Whether roasted, studding a cake batter, or baked in a crostata, pears
capture the essence of autumn in this collection of fabulous recipes

73 bake from scratch

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY OLA AGBODZA
FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD
STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
 Anjou: Anjou pears are squatty fruits with a round
bell shape, a short neck, and a thick stem. Their long shelf life
and versatility make them a kitchen staple. They are often
called the Beurré d’Anjou, or “buttery pears of Anjou,” and are
Pick Your named after the region in France where they’re believed to have
originated. Anjou pears come in green and red varieties and

Pear
___
maintain their color as they ripen. When ripe, they’re soft (but
firmer than Bartletts), with a buttery yet slightly gritty texture
that’s oh so juicy! Their sweet, citrus-like flavor is irresistible.
Anjou pears can withstand high temperatures, making them
We adore pears! Here’s
shine in pies, tarts, and cakes.
a short and sweet guide
to some of our favorites
to use this season: Anjou, Bartlett: Bartlett pears are the quintessential
Bartlett, and Bosc. Grab an pear shape, featuring a rounded bottom half that tapers into
armful of each and let your a slender neck with a delicate stem. Often used for canning,
creativity run wild. these pears maintain their flavor when preserved and soften
beautifully when cooked. Their skin color brightens as they ripen
at room temperature, unlike other pear varieties that show little
color change. To ripen firm, unripe Bartletts, simply leave them
at room temperature. Once fully ripe, they boast smooth skin
and a juicy, buttery interior bursting with sweetness. Keep an
eye on their ripeness daily to avoid over-ripening, which can
lead to mushiness and easy bruising. Opt for slightly underripe
Ripe &
___ Ready
ones to maintain their shape and texture when you’re baking
with them. Check the ripeness of your
pears by gently pressing the
base of the neck, or stem end,
Bosc: These lovely oblong pears have an elegant, of the pears with your thumb.
elongated neck and a gracefully curved stem. Discovered in
If the flesh yields a bit, it’s ripe.
the early 1800s, they have long been admired for their unique
appearance and natural charm. Bosc pears are a delightful
combination of juicy and crunchy, maintaining their flavor and
shape beautifully when cooked or baked. Their distinctive warm
cinnamon-brown skin adorned with russeting sets them apart
from other varieties. Bosc pears are at their best when perfectly
ripe. But if they’re not there yet, they can be a bit tough and
lacking in flavor. To ripen them up, go for firm, unblemished
pears and give them three to six days at room temperature.
Keep an eye on them—Bosc pears give slightly less when ripe
than other varieties, so check them regularly.
PEAR-WALNUT CROSTATA 1. For dough: In the work bowl of a food
Makes 1 (10-inch) tart processor, pulse flour, ground walnuts,
and salt until combined. Add cold butter,
This crostata’s rustic buttery crust is infused and pulse until mixture is crumbly and
with the earthy richness of ground walnuts, butter pieces are pea-size. With processor
perfectly complementing the filling of salty running, add ¼ cup (60 grams) ice water
pancetta, luscious Bosc pears, and creamy in a slow, steady stream just until dough
blue cheese—a combination that is pure magic. comes together.
Once baked to glorious golden perfection, 2. Turn out dough, and press into a flat
it’s crowned with peppery arugula, crunchy disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and
walnuts, and a drizzle of tangy balsamic glaze, refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to
adding the perfect finishing touch. 2 days.
3. For filling: In a small nonstick saucepan,
Dough: cook pancetta over low heat, stirring
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour, occasionally, until golden brown and
plus more for dusting crispy, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove using a
½ cup (48 grams) finely ground walnuts slotted spoon, and let drain on a paper
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt towel-lined plate, reserving drippings
½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, in pan.
cut into ½-inch cubes 4. Heat drippings over medium heat,
¼ cup (60 grams) ice water and add onion. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally,
Filling: until onions are translucent, 6 to
2 ounces (57 grams) cubed pancetta 8 minutes. Remove from heat, and let
1 small yellow onion (175 grams), sliced cool completely.
⅛ inch thick 5. In a medium bowl, combine pear slices,
¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ cups (360 grams) water, and lemon
⅛ teaspoon finely ground black pepper juice. Let stand for 5 minutes. Remove
2 medium fresh Bosc pears (350 grams), pear slices, discarding lemon water, and
halved, cored, and sliced ⅛ inch thick pat dry with a clean towel.
1½ cups (360 grams) plus 1 tablespoon 6. Position oven rack in bottom third of
(15 grams) water, divided oven. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh lemon Line a baking sheet with parchment
juice paper.
1 large egg (50 grams), room 7. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough
temperature into a 14-inch circle (about ¼ inch thick).
4 ounces (113 grams) soft blue cheese* Transfer to prepared pan. Arrange onion
on dough as desired, leaving a 4-inch
Fresh arugula, toasted walnuts, and border around edges. Top onion with
balsamic glaze, to serve pancetta and pears as desired. Fold excess
dough over filling, pleating as needed.
8. In another small bowl, whisk together
egg and remaining 1 tablespoon
(15 grams) water. Using a pastry brush,
lightly brush egg wash onto crust.
9. Bake until crust is golden brown,
30 to 40 minutes. Immediately top with
cheese. Let cool on pan for 10 minutes.
Transfer to a serving platter; top with with
arugula, toasted walnuts, and balsamic
glaze. Serve warm.

*We used BelGioioso® CreamyGorg®

Cheese.

september | october 2024 78

 Roasted Pear
Cheesecake Bars,
page 81
Pear-Ginger
Cake,
page 82
 ROASTED PEAR CHEESECAKE 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
BARS a 13x9-inch baking pan with baking spray just until combined after each addition.
Makes 12 to 16 bars with flour. Line pan with heavy-duty foil, Add sour cream; beat at medium-low
letting excess extend over sides of pan. speed until combined, 1 to 2 minutes,
We credit the classic French dessert of 2. In a large bowl, stir together cookie stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Pour
poires belle Hélène, spiced poached crumbs, 6 tablespoons (84 grams) melted mixture onto prepared crust, spreading
pears with chocolate sauce, as the flavor butter, and ¼ teaspoon salt until well into an even layer with a small offset
inspiration for these creamy bars. Indulge combined; using a small straight-sided spatula. Tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined
in the perfect balance of sweet and tangy measuring cup, press into bottom of counter a few times to release air bubbles.
flavors of luscious cheesecake kissed with prepared pan. Place baking pan in a large roasting pan.
cozy notes of cinnamon and vanilla bean 3. Bake until set and fragrant, 12 to 7. Position oven rack so top of roasting pan
nestled atop roasted Bartlett pears on a 15 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack for is 6 to 6½ inches from top heating element;
chocolate cookie crust. Adorn the top with 30 minutes. Increase oven temperature place roasting pan in oven, and add hot
whipped cream and paper-thin slices of to 425°F (220°C). water to come 1 inch up sides of baking pan.
candied pears for an extra layer of elegance 4. Line a rimmed baking sheet with 8. Bake until edges are set, top looks dry,
to your dessert. parchment paper. On prepared pan, toss center is almost set, and an instant-read
together pears, 2 tablespoons (24 grams) thermometer inserted in center registers
3 cups (410 grams) cream-filled sugar, and remaining 2 tablespoons 150°F (66°C) to 155°F (68°C), 35 to
chocolate sandwich cookies (about (28 grams) melted butter until well 45 minutes, loosely covering with foil to
36 sandwich cookies with filling), coated. Arrange pears cut side down. prevent excess browning, if necessary.
finely crushed 5. Bake for 20 minutes; turn pears, and Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 1½ to
8 tablespoons (112 grams) unsalted bake until soft and golden brown, 10 to 2 hours. Refrigerate in pan on a wire
butter, melted and divided 15 minutes more. Let cool completely rack overnight, loosely covering with foil
½ teaspoon kosher salt, divided on pan. Finely chop pears; spread evenly only when completely cool to prevent
1½ pounds (680 grams) firm fresh onto prepared crust. Reduce oven condensation from forming on top.
Bartlett pears, peeled, halved, and temperature to 325°F (170°C). 9. Using excess foil as handles, carefully
cored (about 4 large pears) 6. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted remove from pan, and transfer to a
1 cup (200 grams) plus 2 tablespoons with the paddle attachment, beat cream cutting board. Using a warm dry knife,
(24 grams) granulated sugar, divided cheese at medium speed until smooth cut into bars. Serve immediately with
3 (8-ounce) packages (680 grams) and creamy, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to whipped cream and Candied Pear Slices.
cream cheese, softened scrape sides of bowl. Add flour, vanilla
3 tablespoons (24 grams) all-purpose bean paste, cinnamon, remaining 1 cup CANDIED PEAR SLICES
flour (200 grams) sugar, and remaining Makes 15 to 20 slices
1 tablespoon (18 grams) vanilla bean ¼ teaspoon salt; beat at low speed just
paste until combined. Increase mixer speed to 2 cups (480 grams) plus 1 tablespoon
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground medium, and beat until well combined, (15 grams) water, divided
cinnamon 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides 2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh lemon
4 large eggs (200 grams), room juice
temperature 1 large firm fresh Bartlett pear
1 cup (240 grams) sour cream, room (112 grams)
temperature 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
Whipped cream and Candied Pear Slices 2 tablespoons (42 grams) light corn
(recipe follows), to serve syrup

81 bake from scratch

1. Preheat oven to 200°F (90°C). Line PEAR-GINGER CAKE 2. Halve and core 6 ounces (170 grams)
a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat Makes 1 (9-inch) cake pears, and chop into small pieces. Halve,
or greased foil. Reserve another baking core, and slice remaining pears into
sheet and another silicone baking sheet. Packed with the warm, enchanting flavors ⅛-inch-thick slices.
2. In a small bowl, stir together 1¾ cups of crystallized ginger mingling with the 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
(420 grams) water and lemon juice until delicate sweetness of ripe Anjou pears, this the paddle attachment, beat butter and
well combined. cake is a delight for the senses. But here’s 1¼ cups (250 grams) sugar at medium
3. Halve pear, and slice paper-thin, cut side the magic ingredient: sour cream! It brings a speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes,
down, on a mandoline. Place pear slices in creamy richness to the batter, resulting in a stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
lemon water for 5 minutes. Gently remove moist and tender crumb that’s simply divine. eggs, one at a time, beating well after
pear slices, discarding lemon water, and pat Don’t skip soaking the pear slices in lemon each addition. Beat in vanilla.
dry with a clean towel. Arrange pear slices water before adding them to the batter; this 4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
on prepared pan, ensuring slices are not simple step not only adds brightness to the baking powder, and salt. With mixer on
overlapping. Top pear slices with reserved pears but also prevents them from browning. low speed, gradually add flour mixture
mat and then reserved pan. to butter mixture alternately with sour
4. Bake until dry, about 1 hour. Remove 12 ounces (340 grams) fresh Anjou cream, beginning and ending with flour
top pan and mat. Bake 10 minutes more. pears mixture, beating just until combined after
Let cool completely on pan. ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, each addition. Fold in diced pears and
5. In a small wide-rimmed heavy- softened 1½ tablespoons (34.5 grams) ginger.
bottomed saucepan, stir together sugar, 1¼ cups (250 grams) plus 1 tablespoon 5. In another medium bowl, combine
¼ cup (60 grams) water, and corn syrup. (12 grams) granulated sugar, divided pear slices, 1 cup (240 grams) water,
Cook over medium heat until sugar 2 large eggs (100 grams), room and lemon juice; let stand for 5 minutes.
dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high, temperature Remove pear slices, and pat dry with a
and bring to a boil, using remaining 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract clean towel.
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water to brush 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour 6. Spread batter into prepared pan.
down sides of pan. (Do not stir once it 1¾ teaspoons (8.75 grams) baking Shingle pear slices on top of batter;
starts to boil.) Cook until desired light powder sprinkle with remaining 1½ tablespoons
amber color is almost reached and a ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt (34.5 grams) ginger, slightly pressing
candy thermometer registers 315°F ¾ cup (180 grams) sour cream pears into batter. Sprinkle with remaining
(150°C). Remove from heat, and let 3 tablespoons (69 grams) chopped 1 tablespoon (12 grams) sugar.
stand until bubbles settle, about 1 minute. crystallized ginger, divided 7. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in
(Caramel will darken a bit more as it sits.) 1 cup (240 grams) water center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and
6. Using a pair of tweezers or small tongs, 2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh lemon 10 minutes, covering with foil to prevent
carefully dip pear slices into hot candy, juice excess browning, if necessary. Let cool in
and return to silicone mat; let cool pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and
completely. Use as desired. 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). let cool completely on a wire rack.
Spray a 9-inch round cake pan with
baking spray with flour. Line bottom of
pan with parchment paper.
 PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER
OLA AGBODZA
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD
STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
 The heavenly fragrances
and indulgent ࢆavors of
these cakes, cookies, and
pastries are just the things
to warm you up on a
brisk autumn day

Peanut Butter-
Marshmallow
Skillet Cookie,
page 87
BROWNED BUTTER SWEET 4. Cut frozen butter into 1-inch pieces;
POTATO BISCUITS add to flour mixture, and pulse just
Makes 15 biscuits until butter pieces are the size of small
peas and mixture is crumbly. Add cold
Using buttermilk in your biscuits helps buttermilk, and pulse until a shaggy
the dough rise and creates taller, fluffier dough forms.
biscuits. The subtle tang from the buttermilk 5. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured
pairs beautifully with the browned butter, surface. Pat dough into a rectangle about
sage, and sweet potato for a harmony of 1 inch thick. Cut dough into fourths.
flavors perfect for fall. Stack fourths on top of each other, and
pat into a rectangle. Repeat procedure
1¼ cups (284 grams) unsalted butter 3 more times. Pat or roll dough to ¾-inch
1 tablespoon (4 grams) packed fresh thickness.
sage leaves 6. Using a 2½-inch round cutter dipped in
3¼ cups (406 grams) all-purpose flour, flour, cut dough without twisting cutter,
plus more for dusting rerolling scraps as necessary. (To reroll
1 cup (220 grams) cold mashed baked scraps, stack pieces on top of each other,
sweet potato and pat to ¾-inch thickness.) Place
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated 2 inches apart on prepared pan. Freeze
sugar until cold, about 10 minutes.
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder 7. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water; brush onto
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda biscuits, and sprinkle with sea salt.
½ cup (120 grams) cold whole 8. Bake until golden brown, 15 to
buttermilk 18 minutes, covering with foil after
1 large egg (50 grams) 10 minutes of baking to prevent excess
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water browning. Serve with softened butter.
Flaked sea salt, to taste
Softened butter, to serve

1. In a light-colored medium saucepan,

melt butter over medium heat. Add sage;
cook, stirring frequently, until butter is
fragrant and a deep amber color, 8 to
10 minutes. Pour into a shallow baking
dish, and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
Freeze until solid, about 30 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 400°F
(200°C). Line 2 baking sheets
with parchment paper.
3. In the work bowl of a food
processor, pulse flour,
sweet potato, sugar,
baking powder, kosher
salt, and baking soda
until combined.
 during final 10 minutes of baking to
prevent excess browning. Garnish with
sea salt, if desired. Let cool on a wire
rack for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.
Serve with remaining Marshmallow
Crème. Store in an airtight container for
up to 3 days.

MARSHMALLOW CRÈME
Makes 5 cups

2 large egg whites (60 grams), room

temperature
¾ cup (255 grams) light corn syrup
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (1 gram) cream of tartar
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract

1. In the top of a double boiler, whisk

together egg whites, corn syrup, sugar,
salt, and cream of tartar. Cook over
simmering water, stirring constantly,
until sugar dissolves and an instant-read
thermometer registers 160°F (71°C),
about 7 minutes.
2. Carefully transfer mixture to the
PEANUT BUTTER- 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray bowl of a stand mixer. Using the whisk
MARSHMALLOW SKILLET a 10-inch enamel-coated cast-iron skillet attachment, beat at high speed until
COOKIE with baking spray with flour. doubled in volume and stiff peaks form,
Makes 1 (10-inch) cookie 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 3 to 4 minutes. Beat in vanilla. Use
the paddle attachment, beat butter and immediately.
Inspired by Fluffernutter—peanut butter brown sugar at medium speed until fluffy,
and Marshmallow Fluff—sandwiches, this 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides MAPLE CREAM-FILLED CRÈME
recipe perfectly balances sweet and salty of bowl. Add egg and egg yolks, one at BRÛLÉE BUNS
flavors into one irresistible, melt-in-your- a time, beating well after each addition. Makes 12 buns
mouth cookie. Add peanut butter, honey, and vanilla,
beating until combined. Buttery-rich brioche bread meets pillowy
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, 3. In a large bowl, stir together flour, doughnuts and cracked-top crème brûlée in
softened peanuts, baking powder, kosher salt, this one decadent treat. Golden-hued pure
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light and baking soda. With mixer on low maple syrup adds caramel sweetness to the
brown sugar speed, gradually add flour mixture to slightly tangy cream filling that is revealed
1 large egg (50 grams) butter mixture, beating just until combined. after biting into the satisfyingly crunchy
2 large egg yolks (37 grams) 4. Using a small offset spatula, spread candied sugar glaze.
⅔ cup (170 grams) creamy peanut 2½ cups (556 grams) dough into bottom
butter and ¾ inch up sides of prepared skillet. 1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk
1 tablespoon (21 grams) honey Spread 3 cups (210 grams) Marshmallow (105°F/40°C to 110°F/43°C)
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract Crème onto dough in skillet, leaving a 2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast*
1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour small border around edges. Using a small ½ cup (100 grams) plus 1 teaspoon
½ cup (57 grams) coarsely chopped spoon, dollop remaining dough all over (4 grams) granulated sugar, divided
roasted unsalted peanuts Marshmallow Crème. Using a small offset 3⅔ cups (458 grams) all-purpose flour,
¾ teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder spatula and short upward moves, drag plus more for dusting
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt dough into Marshmallow Crème to create 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda a swirl as desired. 2 large eggs (100 grams), room
Marshmallow Crème (recipe below) 5. Bake until golden brown, about temperature and divided
Garnish: flaked sea salt 40 minutes, loosely covering with foil 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract

87 bake from scratch

⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, 9. Bake until golden brown and an registers 300°F (150°C) to 310°F
cubed and softened instant-read thermometer inserted near (154°F). Remove from heat, and let
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water, room center registers 190°F (88°C), stand until bubbles settle, about 1 minute.
temperature 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool on pans for (Syrup will darken a bit as it stands.) Use
Crème Brûlée Glaze (recipe follows) 5 minutes. Remove from pans, and let immediately.
Maple Cream Filling (recipe follows) cool completely on wire racks.
10. Carefully dip top of each cooled bun MAPLE CREAM FILLING
1. In a small bowl, stir together warm into Crème Brûlée Glaze. Return to wire Makes 3 cups
milk, yeast, and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) racks, and let stand until glaze is set, about
sugar until well combined. Let stand until 10 minutes. 1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams)
foamy, about 10 minutes. 11. Carefully poke bottom of each bun cream cheese, softened
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with with a paring knife. Transfer Maple Cream ¼ to ½ cup (85 to 170 grams) pure maple
the paddle attachment, whisk together Filling to a pastry bag fitted with a 1⁄4-inch syrup
2 cups (250 grams) flour, salt, and round piping tip. Pipe filling into buns. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
remaining ½ cup (100 grams) sugar. Best served same day. Refrigerate in an 1 cup (240 grams) cold heavy
Add yeast mixture, and beat at low speed airtight container for up to 3 days. whipping cream
until combined. Add 1 egg (50 grams)
and vanilla, beating until combined. *We used Red Star® Active Dry Yeast. 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
With mixer on low speed, gradually add the whisk attachment, beat cream cheese,
remaining cups 1⅔ cups (208 grams) CRÈME BRÛLÉE GLAZE maple syrup, and salt at medium speed
flour, beating just until dough comes Makes about ¾ cup until well combined, about 1 minute,
together and stopping to scrape sides stopping to scrape bottom and sides
of bowl. 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar of bowl. With mixer on medium speed,
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. ¼ cup (60 grams) plus 1 tablespoon add cold cream in a slow, steady stream;
With mixer on low speed, add butter, (15 grams) water increase mixer speed to high, and beat
1 cube at a time, beating until combined until mixture is thick, fluffy, and smooth.
after each addition. Beat until dough is 1. In a small wide-rimmed heavy- Use immediately.
elastic and smooth, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.
Place dough in bowl, turning to grease
bottomed saucepan, heat sugar and ¼ cup
(60 grams) water over medium heat until
sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-
*Forproa stronger
tip
maple flavor, use the full
top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft- high, and bring to a boil; use remaining amount of maple syrup.
free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water to brush
size, 2 to 2½ hours. (Alternatively, cover down sides of pan. (Do not stir once it
and refrigerate overnight.) starts to boil.) Cook until mixture is light
5. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment amber color and a candy thermometer
paper.
6. Lightly punch down dough. Cover and
let stand for 10 minutes. Turn out dough
onto a very lightly floured surface. Divide
dough into 12 portions (about 75 grams
each). Using the palm of your hands,
gently shape each portion of dough into
a smooth ball, lightly flouring your hands
as needed. Using the palm of your hand,
firmly press down on dough to flatten
slightly. Place 3 to 4 inches apart on
prepared pans. Cover with lightly
greased plastic wrap, and let rise in a
warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C)
until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours.
7. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
8. In another small bowl, whisk together
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water and
remaining egg (50 grams) until well
combined. Using a pastry brush, brush
egg wash on top and sides of dough.

september | october 2024 88

Gooey Butter
Pecan Cake,
page 91
Maple Cream-Filled
Crème Brûlée Buns,
page 87

september | october 2024 90

APPLE FRITTER CAKE
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake

Inspired by popular fall festival fare, this

recipe takes all the flavors of a fried fritter
and turns them into a moist and fluffy cake.

1¾cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour

1½teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
2 cups (232 grams) diced Honeycrisp
apples, divided
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
1 large egg (50 grams)
1 large egg white (30 grams)
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
melted and slightly cooled
⅓ cup (80 grams) sour cream
⅓ cup (80 grams) unsweetened
applesauce
1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh lemon
juice
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
(40 grams) whole milk

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray

an 8-inch square baking pan with baking
spray with flour. Line pan with parchment
paper, letting excess extend over sides of
pan.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, cinnamon, and salt. Add
1½ cups (174 grams) apples, tossing to
coat.
3. In another medium bowl, whisk
together brown sugar, egg, and egg white
until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
Whisk in melted butter, sour cream,
applesauce, lemon juice, and vanilla until
well combined. Using a rubber spatula,
fold in flour mixture until just combined
and no dry streaks remain. (Batter will
not be completely smooth.) Pour batter
into prepared pan, and smooth top. Top
with remaining ½ cup (58 grams) apples.
4. Bake until golden brown and a wooden
pick inserted in center comes out clean,
40 to 45 minutes. Let cool in pan for
10 minutes. Using excess parchment as
handles, remove from pan, and let cool on
a wire rack for 10 minutes.
5. In a small bowl, whisk together 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, BUTTER PECAN SAUCE
confectioners’ sugar and milk until pecans, baking powder, and salt. Using Makes 1¼ cups
smooth; drizzle onto warm cake. Serve a rubber spatula, fold flour mixture into
immediately. Store in an airtight sugar mixture. Pour batter into prepared 1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light
container for up to 3 days. pan, smoothing top with an offset spatula. brown sugar
4. In another large bowl, whisk together ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping
GOOEY BUTTER PECAN CAKE cream cheese, remaining ½ cup cream
Make 1 (13x9-inch) cake (113 grams) melted butter, remaining ½ cup (57 grams) chopped pecans
2 eggs (100 grams), and remaining 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
It’s widely accepted that gooey butter cake 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla until well butter
was created by accident in the 1930s or combined. Add confectioners’ sugar, ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1940s in St. Louis, Missouri, by a baker beating until smooth. Spread onto crust ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
who mistakenly added too much butter to mixture.
a German-style yeasted coffee cake batter, 5. Bake until edges are golden brown and 1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring
resulting in a deliciously rich and gooey center jiggles slightly, 25 to 30 minutes. brown sugar and cream to a boil over
texture. Our modern version, which utilizes Let cool completely in pan on a wire rack. medium heat, stirring frequently until
baking powder for lift rather than yeast, 6. Using excess parchment as handles, sugar dissovles. Cook, stirring constantly,
is an indulgent combination of buttery remove from pan, and cut into bars. Serve until thick and a candy thermometer
richness, sticky sweetness, and crunchy with Butter Pecan Sauce. Refrigerate in registers 230°F (110°C) to 235°F
nuts. an airtight container for up to 3 days. (113°C), 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from
heat; stir in pecans, butter, salt, and
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light vanilla. Let cool completely. Refrigerate
brown sugar in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
1¼ cups (283 grams) unsalted butter,
melted, slightly cooled, and divided
3 large eggs (150 grams), divided
1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room
temperature
1 tablespoon (13 grams) plus
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract,
divided
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
⅔ cup (75 grams) finely chopped
toasted pecans
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams)
cream cheese, softened
1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’
sugar
Butter Pecan Sauce (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray

a 13x9-inch baking pan with baking spray
with flour. Line pan with parchment
paper, letting excess extend over sides
of pan.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together
brown sugar and ¾ cup (170 grams)
melted butter until light and fluffy, 2 to
3 minutes. Whisk in 1 egg (50 grams)
and egg yolk until smooth. Whisk in
1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla.

september | october 2024 92

BROWNED BUTTER BUNDT CAKE
Makes 1 (10-cup) Bundt cake

The slightly nutty, toffee-like flavors of browned butter shine through

in this elegantly simple Bundt. The caramel aroma of the cake is
complemented by the rich flavors of the glaze.

1¼ cups (284 grams) unsalted butter

1¾ cups (385 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar*
3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature
1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract
2¾ cups (344 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk, room temperature
Brown Sugar Glaze (recipe follows)

1. In a light-colored medium saucepan, melt butter over

medium-high heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until butter is
fragrant and a deep amber color, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour into a
shallow baking dish, and let cool until solid but still soft.
2. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C).
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
beat browned butter and brown sugar at medium speed until
fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs,
one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in vanilla.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt.
With mixer on low speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter
mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour
mixture, beating just until combined after each addition.
5. Spray a 10-cup Bundt pan with baking spray with flour. Spoon
batter into prepared pan. Tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined
counter to settle batter.
6. Bake until a wooden pick inserted near center comes out
clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes. Let cool in pan for
10 minutes. Invert cake onto a wire rack, and let cool completely.
7. Top cooled cake with Brown Sugar Glaze. Let stand until set,
about 10 minutes. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

BROWN SUGAR GLAZE

Makes about ¾ cup

½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar*

¼ cup (60 grams) heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
½ cup (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt

1. In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, cook brown sugar,

cream, and butter over medium heat, whisking constantly, until
sugar is melted.
2. Remove from heat; whisk in vanilla. Whisk in confectioners'
sugar, ¼ cup (30 grams) at a time, until combined. Whisk in salt.
Use immediately. (If mixture sets too quickly, it can be reheated
on the stovetop or microwave in 30-second intervals.)

*We used C&H® Dark Brown Sugar.

september | october 2024 94
 Introducing premium pie ࢅllings from Bonne Maman®,
the most delicious ways to have homemade pie in a ࢆash
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE / FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD / STYLING BY DONNA NICHOLS

Baking a fruity fall pie is a time-honored tradition, yet we all have times when we need a little help
without sacriࡼcing the essence of homemade goodness. Enter new pie ࡼllings from Bake from Scratch
Oࡺcial Test Kitchen Partner Bonne Maman®. Crafted with only the highest-quality fruit and minimal
ingredients, they are as good as if you had the time to make it yourself. When paired with buttery,
ࡽaky piecrust and easy enhancements of crunchy toppings, creamy sauces, warming spices, and
fun sizes, you can transform these premium ingredients into your own home-baked creations.

september | october 2024 96

 FRIED APPLE HAND PIES Dredge
Dr re warm pies in cinnamon sugar. 2. Turn out dough, and shape into a
Makes about 24 hand pies Bes
Be
Bests served warm with Salted Caramel disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and
Saau Store pies in an airtight container
Sauce. refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to
Fried hand pies are a favorite treat in the ffor
foor up to 2 days. 2 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.
Southern United States, where Bake from
Scratch is headquartered. We love the
crunchy, flaky crust that envelops the fruity
*HHand
pro tips
p
an pies can be assembled through step
an
Let frozen dough thaw overnight in
refrigerator before using. If refrigerating
for longer than 1 hour, let dough stand at
filling, and this fall version is no exception. 3,, covered,
c and refrigerated overnight room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes
Dredging the pies in cinnamon sugar while bbefore
beef frying, and they can also be baked before rolling out.
they’re still warm ensures the coating on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet
on
adheres. 3
at 350°F (180°C) until golden brown. SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE
Makes about 1¼ cups
All-purpose flour, for dusting As
As
Assembled pies can be frozen until solid
3 recipes All-Butter Piecrust (recipe aannd then transferred to a heavy-duty
and 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
follows) reese
se
resealable plastic bag. Frozen pies can ¼ cup (60 grams) water
1 (21.1-ounce) jar (600 grams) Bonne bee baked
b without thawing; however, let ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping
Maman® Apple Pie Filling froz
fr
froz
oz pies fully thaw in the refrigerator
frozen cream, room temperature
1 large egg (50 grams) bef frying.
be
before 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water butter, cubed and softened
Vegetable oil, for frying ALLLL-BUTTER PIECRUST 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar Makes
M
Ma
ak 1 (9-inch) piecrust or about 8 hand pies ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground
cinnamon 1½
½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour 1. In a small heavy-bottomed saucepan,
Salted Caramel Sauce (recipe follows) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt stir together sugar and ¼ cup (60 grams)
½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, water until moistened. Cook over high
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment cut into ½-inch cubes heat, swirling pan occasionally but not
paper. ¼ cup (60 grams) ice water, plus more stirring, until caramel turns a deep amber
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll All- as needed color and a candy thermometer registers
Butter Piecrust to ⅛-inch thickness. 355°F (180°C) to 360°F (182°C), 10 to
Using a 4-inch round cutter, cut circles 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, 12 minutes.
from dough, rerolling scraps once if puls
pu uls
pulsels flour and salt until combined. Add 2. Remove from heat. Carefully whisk
necessary. Spoon 1 tablespoon (20 grams) coold butter; pulse until mixture is crumbly
cold in cream until well combined. Whisk in
pie filling into center of each round. aannd butter pieces are pea-size. With
and butter until melted and well combined.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together egg prro
processor running, add ¼ cup (60 grams) Whisk in vanilla and salt. Let cool
and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Brush icee water in a slow, steady stream just
ic completely before serving. Refrigerate in
edges of each round with egg wash. Fold unnt dough comes together. (Mixture
until an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
dough in half over filling, pressing edges m
ma
mayay appear crumbly but should be moist
together to seal. Crimp edges with a fork annd hold together when pinched.) Add
and
as desired. Place pies on prepared pan; addd
add
additional ice water, 1 tablespoon
refrigerate until firm, about 20 minutes. (115 grams) at a time, if needed.
(15
4. In a Dutch oven or a large heavy-
bottomed saucepan, pour oil to a depth of
2 inches, and heat over medium heat until
a deep-fry thermometer registers 365°F
(185°C). Line 2 rimmed baking sheets
with paper towels.
5. In a shallow dish, whisk together sugar
and cinnamon.
6. Working in batches of 3 to 4, gently
lower hand pies into oil. Fry until golden
brown, 1 to 1½ minutes per side. Remove
pies using a spider strainer or slotted
spoon, and let drain on prepared pans.

97 bake from scratch

Double-Crust Cherry P
ie wit
h Cr
ème
A ng
lais
e, p
age
1 01
 Pie, p a ge 1 01
tre usel
S
nd
lmo
y-A
err
eb
Blu
 For even more delicious
DOUBLE-CRUST CHERRY PIE CRRÈME ANGLAISE home-baked pies, don’t miss
WITH CRÈME ANGLAISE Makes about 2½ cups
Ma our Easy Pie Filling video
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie with Bonne Maman® on
¾ cup (180 grams) heavy whipping cream the Bake from Scratch
The cutouts in the top crust serve a dual ¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk
YouTube channel.
purpose of decorating the pie and allowing 6 tablespoons (72 grams) granulated
steam to escape. A drizzle of rich vanilla sugar, divided Subscribe now at
custard sauce elegantly elevates each slice 1½ teaspoons (9 grams) vanilla bean paste youtube.com/bakefromscratch
from simple to sublime. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt so you never miss an episode.
4 large egg yolks (74 grams), room
All-purpose flour, for dusting temperature
2 recipes All-Butter Piecrust (recipe
on page 97) 1.. IIn a medium saucepan, heat cream,
1 (21.1-ounce) jar (600 grams) Bonne mi
m i 3 tablespoons (36 grams) sugar,
milk, ¼ cup (28 grams) sliced almonds
Maman® Cherry Pie Filling van
va n bean paste, and salt over medium-
vanilla All-Butter Piecrust (recipe on page 97)
1 large egg (50 grams) loow heat, stirring frequently, just until
low 1 (21.1-ounce) jar (600 grams) Bonne
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water ste
st e
steaming. (Do not boil.) Maman® Blueberry Pie Filling
2 tablespoons (24 grams) turbinado sugar 2. IIn a medium bowl, whisk together
Crème Anglaise (recipe follows) eggg yolks and remaining 3 tablespoons
egg 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
(336 grams) sugar. Slowly add half of hot
(36 sugar, salt, and cinnamon. Using a pastry
1. On a lightly floured surface, roll half of crre mixture, whisking constantly.
cream blender or your hands, work in cold butter
All-Butter Piecrust into a 12-inch circle Wh egg mixture into remaining hot
Wh
Whisk until mixture is crumbly. Stir in almonds.
(about ⅛ inch thick). Transfer to a 9-inch crre mixture in pan. Cook over medium
cream Refrigerate until ready to use.
pie plate, gently pressing dough into heea whisking constantly, until mixture
heat, 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll
bottom and up sides of pan. Trim excess iss thick
t enough to coat the back of a All-Butter Piecrust into a 12-inch circle
dough to ½ inch beyond edge of pan. spoo and an instant-read thermometer
sp
spoon (about ⅛ inch thick). Transfer to a 9-inch
Spread pie filling into prepared crust. regg
registers 180°F (82°C). pie plate, gently pressing dough into
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll 3 S
3. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh bottom and up sides of pan. Trim excess
remaining All-Butter Piecrust into a siee into a medium bowl, discarding
sieve dough to ½ inch beyond edge of pan. Fold
12-inch circle (about 1⁄8 inch thick). Using soll Cover with plastic wrap, pressing
solids. edges under, and crimp as desired. Prick
a small decorative cutter, cut out shapes wra directly onto surface of mixture to
wrap bottom of dough all over with a fork.
in center of dough; reserve cutout pieces pree
prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate Freeze until firm, about 15 minutes.
of dough. Carefully place dough on filling, untt cold, at least 4 hours, or up to
until 3. Position oven rack in bottom third of
centering area with cutouts. Trim excess ovve
overnight. Refrigerate in an airtight oven. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
dough to ½ inch beyond edge of plate. coon
container for up to 4 days. 4. Spread pie filling into cold prepared
Gently press edges of dough together; crust. Sprinkle almond mixture on top.
fold edges under, and crimp as desired. BL
BLUEBERRY-ALMOND 5. Bake until crust is golden brown and
Freeze for 15 minutes. S
ST
STREUSEL PIE filling is bubbly, about 45 minutes,
3. Position oven rack in bottom third of Makes
Ma 1 (9-inch) pie covering with foil during final 15 minutes
oven. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). of baking to prevent excess browning. Let
4. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and Reef
Refrigerating the streusel mixture before cool completely on a wire rack. Store in
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Using a addd it to the pie helps its pieces stay
adding an airtight container for up to 3 days.
pastry brush, brush egg wash onto crust. toog
together during baking for golden-brown,
Place reserved cutout dough pieces ccrunchy
ru goodness. Feel free to use any nut
on crust as desired, gently pressing to yyou
ou like in the topping.
adhere. Sprinkle turbinado sugar on top.
5. Bake until crust is golden brown, ⅓ cup (42 grams) all-purpose flour,
about 40 minutes, covering edges with plus more for dusting
foil during final 15 minutes of baking 3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated
to prevent excess browning. Let cool sugar
completely on a wire rack. Serve with ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Crème Anglaise. Store in an airtight ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
container for up to 3 days. 3 tablespoons (42 grams) cold unsalted
butter

101 bake from scratch

 origin of a classic

The history of
these Viking-created
pancake balls

BY CHRISTINA FLEISCH
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY OLA AGBODZA
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL

103 bake from scratch

T
he aebleskive has a long history, though not much of it is The earliest known aebleskiver pan dates back approximately
recorded. Its background is little more than speculation, 300 years. Made from hammered copper, these pans were
with details passed down largely through an oral history difficult to use, as the batter would stick to the metal, ruining
rather than written documentation. These delicious pancakes the delicious aebleskiver. Eventually, cast iron was used to make
hail from Scandinavia—Denmark, Norway, and Sweden— the pans. This new pan served as the perfect alternative, with its
originating sometime during the age of the Vikings, around even distribution of heat and well-seasoned nonstick surface.
AD 800 to 1050. The Vikings, fearsome seafaring warriors, The cast-iron pan also created a crisper crust to the aebleskiver.
were known for their penchant for raiding and conquering The aebleskiver pan that you’ll most frequently find today
land everywhere from Iceland to as far as the Americas. is nonstick aluminum, such as the one we used from Nordic
Their success during raids depended on being on the move. Ware. In fact, when Nordic Ware started in 1946, it produced
They sailed on longships, narrow and shallow boats that were just a handful of specialty Scandinavian cookware products, one
lightweight, able to move through shallow waters and be carried of which was its Ebelskiver Pan.
when necessary. They brought whatever food they needed
to keep their energy high enough to fight should they need The word “aebleskive” comes from the Danish words for
to. One of the meals eaten by raiding parties were the small, apple (aeble) and slice (skive), or epli and skīfa, respectively,
delectable aebleskiver. in Old Norse. The apple in the name refers to the
tradition of filling aebleskive batter with apple slices,
These little, spherical pancakes get their shape from special chopped apples, or applesauce. Some versions
pans with individual wells. These pans didn’t exist during the of the aebleskive are made with yeast as a
Viking era, so how did the aebleskive come to be? One of the leavening agent rather than baking powder.
prevailing stories about the origins of the aebleskive is that
during breaks between raids, Vikings would gather around the
fire, setting down their shields, heavily dented from battle,
and sit for a meal to replenish their energy. The Vikings
would then place a shield over the fire and fill the
dents with batter. The metal of the shield would
quickly cook the batter into the perfect
snack for these warriors to get back to
their business of raiding and pillaging
another village. Another theory is
that rather than using a dent-riddled
shield, someone’s helmet was used.
There is no written history to back
up these stories, though many
fans of the aebleskive claim this
to be its origin. Thankfully, as
years went on, the world turned
to more modern and hygienic
practices for making culinary
tools, and an aebleskiver pan
was created.

Get this
aebleskiver pan at
bakefromscratch.com
/shoptheissue.
 Naturally, these take more time and care to prepare because
of the wait time for the dough to rise, thus making them more SPICED APPLE AEBLESKIVER
suited to special occasions. It was also tradition to use knitting Makes about 18 pancake balls
needles to turn aebleskiver as they cooked. The needles have
the length required to keep your fingers safe from burning In Denmark, these sweet puffs are traditionally
served in threes. Enjoy them any time of day with
while being sharp enough to gently get under the cooked
coffee, tea, hot cider, or mulled wine.
side of the pancake to turn it. These days, chopsticks or long
wooden skewers are most often used. Mixing apples into the 1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour
batter fell out of practice as time moved on, though there is no 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar
explanation as to why. Modern aebleskiver are enjoyed without 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
a filling and are typically served with confectioners’ sugar and 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (2 grams) apple pie spice
syrups, jams, or preserves. We’ve chosen to serve ours with
¾ cup (180 grams) whole buttermilk, room
apple butter to echo its origin. In Scandinavia, aebleskiver are temperature
typically served during the colder months, closer to the holiday ¼ cup (60 grams) spiced apple cider
season, and enjoyed with a mug of glögg, a mulled wine. You’ll 1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room temperature
find street vendors selling aebleskiver and glögg during this 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter,
time of year. It is also enjoyed at breakfast alongside morning melted and slightly cooled, plus more for
brushing
coffee.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
¾ cup (120 grams) shredded Honeycrisp apple
Love for the aebleskive has spread globally, partly thanks to the (about 1 large apple)
adventuring of the Vikings. Aebleskiver appear where there are 2 large egg whites (60 grams), room
larger populations of Scandinavian settlements. The town of temperature
Solvang, California, calls itself the Danish Capital of America Apple butter*, to serve
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar
and has a festival called the Danish Days. This annual festival
occurs in September and includes an aebleskive-eating contest 1. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
and plenty of vendors selling these delicious pancakes. granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, and
pie spice.
Whether you have Scandinavian heritage you wish to honor or 2. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk,
you simply enjoy a delicious apple-filled treat, we invite you cider, egg yolk, melted butter, and vanilla until
well combined. Stir in apple. Add buttermilk
make these flavorful aebleskiver.
mixture to flour mixture, whisking until just
combined.
3. In a medium bowl, beat egg whites with a
mixer at medium-high speed until stiff peaks
form. Gently fold egg whites into batter in three
additions.
4. Heat a nonstick aebleskiver pan over medium-
low heat. Brush melted butter into wells of
hot pan. Using a 2-tablespoon spring-loaded
scoop, scoop batter (about 32 grams each)
into prepared wells. Cook until batter begins to
bubble around edges, 1 to 2 minutes. Using long,
thin wooden skewers, gently lift and turn each
ball about 90 degrees, letting batter that is on
top move to bottom of pan. Once batter bubbles
again, gently lift and turn another 90 degrees.
Gently push the tip of one wooden skewer against the edge of the Repeat procedure until ball is golden brown on
pan and slightly underneath the aebleskive; it will easily slide in the all sides and cooked through. Remove from pan,
well when it’s ready to be turned. Use the tip of the other skewer to and repeat with remaining batter. Serve warm
help turn the aebleskive. Try not to poke a hole in the cooked side with apple butter. Garnish with confectioners’
when turning, and don’t pat the top of the aebleskive into the well sugar, if desired.
after it’s turned; doing so will cause it to cook up disk-like rather
than round. *We used Williams Sonoma Cinnamon Apple
Butter.
105 bake from scratch
 gold standard

NCHM
BE

A
R

RK
OU
CL ASSIC
BAKE

A
V
ER

S I M P LY

F
SION O

Sensational
A little sugar and spice
make this quick bread
all things nice

PHOTOGRAPHY BY
KYLE CARPENTER
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
OLA AGBODZA
FOOD STYLING BY
KATIE MOON DICKERSON
COURTNI BODIFORD
STYLING BY
The Method to Our Magic
Maximum flavor and a soft texture for days were our top goals for this bread, and we
more than succeeded. In addition to the fragrant blend of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg,
and cloves that comprises pumpkin pie spice, a pinch of black pepper adds a faintly
lingering touch of heat. Dark brown sugar’s higher molasses content brings a caramelly
depth of flavor and moisture, and vanilla extract adds floral sweetness. Using oil rather
than butter lets the pumpkin flavor shine while keeping the crumb tender; plus, it helps
create the cracked dome on top, the instantly recognizable sign of a quick bread.

SPICED PUMPKIN BREAD

Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) loaf

Enjoy thick slices of this easy loaf for breakfast, an afternoon snack, or dessert.

2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons (10 grams)
pumpkin pie spice
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground black pepper
1 (15-ounce) can (425 grams) pumpkin
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
⅔ cup (149 grams) neutral oil, plus more for
scoring
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature
2 teaspoons (4 grams) vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray an

8½x4½-inch loaf pan with baking spray with flour.
Line pan with parchment paper, letting excess
extend over all sides of pan.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, pie spice,
baking powder, salt, and pepper.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together pumpkin,
granulated sugar, oil, brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla
until smooth. Fold pumpkin mixture into flour
mixture until smooth. Spread batter into prepared
pan. Firmly tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter
to settle batter. Using an offset spatula dipped in oil,
score a line down center of batter, leaving about a
1-inch border on short sides of pan.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes
out with a few moist crumbs, 1½ hours to 1 hour and
40 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Using
excess parchment as handles, remove from pan,
and let cool completely on a wire rack. Store in an
airtight container for up to 3 days.

september | october 2024 108

fast-fix baking

quint e s s e n t i a l l y
QUÉB É C O I S
Indulge in the easy coziness of this
warm maple syrup-accented cake

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE

FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON / STYLING BY COURTNI BODIFORD
POUDING CHÔMEUR
Makes 6 to 8 servings
1. P
Lig
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
Lightly spray a 1½-quart baking dish with
*Pouring
pro tip
the sauce onto the back of a
coo
cooking spray; use a pastry brush to spoon lets it fall gently onto the batter,
Pouding chômeur is a dessert with a spr
spread spray evenly, removing excess. which avoids creating holes or an uneven
long-standing Québécois culinary heritage. 2.. F
2 For sauce: In a medium saucepan, bring surface. You want the sauce to sit on top
The French word chômeur translates to cre
cream, maple syrup, and salt to a boil over of the batter so that as it bakes, the layers
“unemployed”; the pudding is aptly named me
medium-high heat, stirring frequently; switch places in the pan.
because it was intended to be an affordable coo stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.
cook,
luxury for those struggling to make ends Re
Remove from heat, and let cool for at WHIPPED CRÈME FRAÎCHE
meet during the Great Depression. Legend leeas 5 minutes.
least Makes about ¾ cup
attributes its creation to women factory 3. FFor cake: In a medium bowl, whisk
workers in Quebec who ingeniously combined tog g
together flour, baking powder, and salt. ¼ cup (60 grams) crème fraîche
flour, sugar, eggs, and milk to make a humble 4. IIn a large bowl, whisk together melted ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
cake batter, and adding the quintessential but t
butter, sugar, eggs, and vanilla; whisk ½ cup (120 grams) cold heavy whipping
Canadian ingredient of maple syrup elevated in mmilk. Gradually add flour mixture, cream
it to icon status. wh
whisking until just combined and no
ddry
ry streaks remain. Spread batter into
ry 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together
Sauce: pre
pr e
prepared pan. Slowly and gently pour crème fraîche and vanilla until smooth.
1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping sau
sa u onto the back of a large spoon
sauce Add cold cream, and whisk until medium
cream oover
ov ve batter so it runs off spoon and onto peaks form. Refrigerate until ready to
1 cup (336 grams) pure grade A dark bbatter.
ba at (Do not stir together.) serve.
amber maple syrup 5.. B
5 Bake until cake is golden, sauce is
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt bubb
bu
bubbly, and a wooden pick inserted
c
in center comes out clean, 25 to
Cake: 30 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes. Serve
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour warr with Whipped Crème Fraîche.
wa
warm
1¾ teaspoons (8.75 grams) baking Co and refrigerate for up to 2 days.
Cover
powder
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
⅓ cup (75 grams) unsalted butter,
melted and cooled slightly
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams), room
temperature
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla
extract
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk,
room temperature

Whipped Crème Fraîche

(recipe follows)

september | october 2024 110

 baking tips

WINDOWPANE TEST FOCACCIA FOLDING

Kneading dough to develop the gluten
structure is an essential part of the
majority of yeasted dough recipes. But
how do you know when you’ve kneaded
enough? Enter the windowpane test:
Pinch or cut—but don’t tear, because
this damages the gluten strands—a small,
walnut-size piece of dough. Then gently
and slowly pull and rotate the dough out
from its center. If the dough is properly
kneaded, you will be able to stretch
it—without tearing—until it’s thin and
translucent. If it tears or breaks during the
stretch, give your dough another minute
of work and then test again. If the dough
is too hard to stretch, it’s been overmixed.

FINGER DENT TEST

After your dough has rested the amount
of time according to your recipe, lightly
flour your fingertip or knuckle, and gently
press about ½ inch into the surface. If The traditional method of kneading is
your dough has properly proofed, you replaced with a simple folding technique in
should be able to watch the dough spring focaccia dough. Reach under one side of
back slightly but still show an indentation. dough, and gently stretch the edge of the
Additionally, the dough has roughly dough as high as you can without tearing.
doubled in size from its original amount. Once you reach the top, fold the dough
In underproofed dough, your finger dent over the center. This motion strengthens the
will immediately spring back; the gluten gluten network and is the preferred method
is strong, but the carbon dioxide bubbles to build elasticity for doughs that have high
haven’t expanded enough to allow the hydration levels. Repeat three more times
dough to rise to its full potential. In around bowl to complete one round of
overproofed dough, the finger dent never folding. Fold the dough in the bowl every
fills back in; the carbon dioxide bubbles 30 minutes for a total of 1½ hours. By the
have stretched the gluten past its limits. last fold, you should notice the dough has
become smooth and elastic.
HIGH-RISE MUFFINS
Leaving every other cup of the TOASTING NUTS
muffin pan empty allows for To toast nuts, heat them in a small dry
maximum rise and doming to skillet over medium heat, stirring or
your muffins; adding water to the shaking skillet occasionally, until lightly
empty cups helps the pan heat browned and fragrant. Let them cool
evenly and prevents warping. completely before using.

111 bake from scratch

 FROM SCRATCH
®

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Take an adventure the
TEST KITCHEN
Bake from Scratch way.
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To stay up-to-date on our baking retreat announcements, sign up for our newsletter, PreHeat!
 bake it like brian

PEAR FRITTER MINI CAKES

Petite Pear Makes 12 cakes

Apple Fritter Cake (recipe on page 91)

Pleasures 2 cups (232 grams) diced fresh pears

1 teaspoon (2 grams) Chinese five-spice powder
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons (30 grams) whole milk
I adore baked fruit, individual servings,
and the warm ࢆavors of fall spices, 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray a 12-cup
muffin pan with baking spray with flour.
so I decided to blend them all into one 2. Prepare Apple Fritter Cake batter through
irresistible autumn treat. I swapped step 3, using 1½ cups (174 grams) pears instead
of apples and Chinese five-spice powder instead
the apples in our fritter cake for pears, of cinnamon. Divide batter among prepared wells
which blend beautifully with Chinese (about 5 tablespoons or 80 grams each). Top with
remaining ½ cup (58 grams) pears.
ࢅve-spice powder, my current autumn 3. Bake until lightly browned and a wooden pick
spice obsession. I baked these beauties inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes.
Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan,
in a muࢃn pan and served them upside and let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
down with a simple glaze for a casually 4. In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners’
sugar and milk until smooth; drizzle onto warm cakes.
elegant presentation. Serve warm or at room temperature. Refrigerate in
an airtight container for up to 3 days.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD / STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL

113 bake from scratch

 N
BO
EW K
85 Recipes Ready to

O
!
Enjoy in about 2 Hours or Less

These cakes, breads, pies, tarts, cookies, and bars are straightforward and
satisfying and can be measured, mixed, and baked in about two hours or less.
Let this book be your go-to for conquering cravings, welcoming unexpected
guests, and indulging with family and friends, even when time is scarce.

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